Online Course Study Pages

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Question Review
Instructions
Onlinecourse Home
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Course Comments
Welcome to the Online Course Study Pages. The information found in these
pages was developed by the BoatU.S. Foundation, in partnership with the National
Safe Boating Council, the National Association of State Boating Law
Administrators, and many boating professionals. The information is considered to
be current and accurate. As many boating situations can be handled differently,
the information found in these pages may not be consistent with other boating
guides.
The course questions are based on information found in these pages. Should
you find something that you feel is inaccurate, please take a moment and drop us a
note at onlinecourse@boatus.com
Click on topics located in the menu to your left to open review sections. At the end
of each section there will be an optional quiz that should help you see what areas
you need to spend more time reviewing. You may also print or download the
review sections for your personal reference.
This site is best viewed at 800 x 600 or higher screen resolution. Animations require a late version of Macromedia FLASH player. The program
will prompt you for a free download if necessary. dkCasler Web Design 2004
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Question Review
Instructions
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QUESTION REVIEW
While taking the course, you will be presented with 50 questions, similar to the following examples. You will
also receive 5 questions dealing with the boating laws used by your state.
Please review the following questions to familiarize yourself with the question format, and also review the study
topics prior to taking the test.
All questions are multiple choice, and have four to five answers to choose from.
Sample Question 1:
If you see a boat off your boat's starboard beam, you are seeing it:
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
straight out from the middle of your boat's left side.

straight ahead of your boat.
straight out from the middle of your boat's right side.
in your boat's danger zone.
directly behind your boat.
In the above question, there are five distinct (a,b,c,d,e) possible answers, so you must choose which of the five
answers is the BEST choice. In this question, only "c" is correct, so "c" is your BEST choice.
Sample Question 2:
Failure to maintain a proper lookout by sight and hearing and all useful means available so as to be
fully aware of the situation and any risk of collision:
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
Is a major cause of collision between boats underway.

Directly violates the Navigation Rules (NAV RULES).
Reduces safety of all boats in the area.
Is acceptable as long as the other vessel is watching.
A, B, and C.
In the above question, there are four (a,b,c,d) distinct answers, and one answer (e) that combines other
choices. While any one of the first four choices (a,b,c,d) may be correct by iteself, other choices may also be
correct. If there is more than one possible correct answer (any combination of a,b,c or d), the BEST choice is
the answer that combines all of the correct answers (e). In this case, "a", "b" and "c" are all correct answers to
the question, so "e" would be the BEST choice.
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Question Review
Instructions
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COURSE INSTRUCTIONS AND FEATURES

History...
The BoatU.S. Foundation acknowledged in 1996 that there was a need for using the internet to deliver a free
boating safety course to a segment of the public that was not being reached by traditional courses. After
investing several thousand hours and dollars for development, the Online Boating Safety Course was launched
to the public in April, 1997. Designed to provide a basic overview of survival skills on the water, we encourage
all boaters to continue their boating safety education through in-depth classroom courses.
Features...
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This course is approved by the National Association of Boating Law Administrators and
recognized by the US Coast Guard. The course meets and exceeds their defined minimum
education standards. Most insurance companies offer education discounts for courses that
are NASBLA approved and USCG recognized.
This course is offered FREE of charge. Upon successful completion with a score of 80% or
better, you may request a certificate be sent to you OR you may print out a certificate.
The 55 multiple choice questions offered in this course are randomly generated from a
large pool of questions after you complete the registration form. Each time you opt to take a
new test, Note--Oregon residents must complete the 75-question Oregon test to receive an
Oregon certification as of 01/01/01.
This course is a teaching course. If you choose the wrong answer, it will explain why your
answer is wrong and offer you the correct answer.
You may receive 5 or more multiple choice questions from the boating office of the state in
which you boat. While not all states accept the on-line course, most have provided
questions pertaining to the boating conditions in their state. You will need to contact your
state's boating office to determine whether our course fulfills any mandatory education
requirements.
This course is designed for the novice and the experienced boater. We recommend you
study topics you may be unfamiliar with in advance. To do so, click on the Study Topics
button. If you feel you do not need advance preparation, you may just begin the course.
Background material on question topics is available throughout the exam through the use
of hyperlinks. Should you be unsure of an answer to a question, click on the highlighted
word(s) or the category icon. This will take you directly to the study materials. At the end of
each section, there is a short quiz to help you see what the exam questions will be like.
A glossary is also available to help you with nautical terms.
Introduction
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This course will evaluate your knowledge of boating safety and teach you as you proceed.
You will have the opportunity to answer each question once to receive credit for that
question. If you choose the incorrect answer, the correct answer will be shown at that time.
You may take the test as often as necessary to pass.
If you wish to leave the test, your score will automatically be saved. Your test is saved
under your first name and email address. Be careful to type in exactly what you entered on
the first attempt.
Those who pass the course and receive their certificate will not be eligible for additional
certificates for one year. At that point you may return and test your knowledge again. You
may take the course as often as necessary to pass, however.
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Please feel free to fill out the comment form at the conclusion of the test. The comments of
test users helps us fix problems and ad new features that are beneficial to future test
takers.
For those internet-savvy users out there, our course contains cookies. These cookies are
used ONLY to track your randomized selection of questions in the event you choose to
leave the course. When you return, the cookie can tell the database exactly which
questions you were offered, in what order, and where you left off (and your score, of
course). That is the ONLY cookie trail we are concerned with.
If you do chose to "leave and return later", your initial question will not show your current
score. You must answer at least one question to generate an up to date score.
Reminder
This course is a general overview of the basics in boating safety, requirements, navigation, and operation. This
course is not intended to replace the in-depth training a formal classroom course will provide, but instead to
give you a new avenue to access important educational information. The BoatU.S. Foundation encourages you
to sign up for one of the US Power Squadron or US Coast Guard Auxiliary or state courses available through
the Foundation Courseline.
Remember, laws and rules change, and it is easy to forget the numerous requirements and rules that
boating has. Taking a refresher course at the start of the season is a great way to pass the time and
brush up on your skills.
Take your time and enjoy the course!
Special Thanks
This free test was funded and administered by the BoatU.S. Foundation and authored by the
National Safe Boating Council (NSBC).
We have been honored to receive editorial reviews from Mack Maloney, Author of CHAPMAN'S PILOTING and
John Bonds, US.SAILING
Where to go from here?
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LOADING & CAPACITY PLATES

The terms loading and capacity relate to the weight of
people, fuel and gear that can be safely carried. The
safe load of a boat in terms of people depends on a
number of characteristics, including hull volume and
dimension, the weight of the engine and, if an outboard,
how is it mounted. The number of seats in a boat is not
an indication of the number of people it can safely carry.
Capacity plates can generally be found on the inside
transom, or next to the helm station.
Capacity plates should never be removed, altered, or
tampered with. While it is not a Federal violation for a
boat owner to exceed the listed capacities, many states
do have statutes prohibiting the carriage of people and
gear in excess of the stated capacity, or the installation
of a motor that exceeds the recommended horse power
limit. Also, you may void your insurance policy if you are
found to have exceeded the limits stated on your
capacity plate.
The standard became effective for applicable boats
manufactured of mono-hull boats less than 20 feet in length, except sailboats, canoes, kayaks and inflatables.
The standard became effective for applicable boats manufactured after November 1, 1972. The standards
originally required the following:
Capacity Plate information by boat type:

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Boats powered by outboards: the maximum persons capacity in pounds and maximum
weight capacity (persons, motor and gear) in pounds and maximum horsepower capacity.
Boats powered by inboards and stern drives: the maximum persons capacity in pounds
and maximum weight capacity (persons and gear). (The Coast Guard Safe Powering
Standard does not apply to inboards, stern drives, etc.)
Manually propelled boats: the maximum persons capacity in pounds and maximum
weight capacity (persons and gear).
Also keep in mind the limits defined on capacity plates apply in good to moderate weather conditions. In rough
waters, keep the weight well below the limit. People represent a "live" load; moving about affects a boat quite
differently than static loads like the engine or fuel tank. If your boat's capacity is fully used, or if the weather
becomes rough, distribute the load evenly; keep the weight low, and avoid abrupt changes in distribution. Shift
human or other weight only after stopping or slowing.
For boats over 26 feet, the general rule of thumb is to only have as many people aboard as you
have built-in seats. Another way to determine how many people you may safely carry is to use
the following formula:
Boat length (in feet) multiplied by Beam (in feet) divided by: 15
As an example, if you have a 30 foot boat having a 10 foot beam, you can safely carry 20 average size adults
(approximately 150 lbs each). Keep in mind that this formula is based upon having calm seas! You should
always carry less weight and fewer people if you know you are in for rough weather.
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Boat Types and Uses
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KNOW YOUR BOAT!

Hull Types
One thing every boat has in common is a hull. A "hull", or bottom of a boat, comes in several different forms.
Each form has a unique shape that give it certain handling and performance characteristics. Your boat has the
hull form that it has to best match the type of boating it was designed for. In general, hull forms fall into one of
the two following categories:
Planing Hulls - Planing hulls are designed to ride on top of the water, regardless of the weight of the boat.
The flatter the bottom, the easier it is to get on plane. Also, less power is needed to attain high speeds with a
flatter hull. The trade off is in handling. Flat hulls do not do well in rough water. Many planing boats use a
shallow "V" shape to ride better in rough waters. This Fountain 42RC shows several design elements
commonly found in modern boats-- a V-bottom for better handling in rough water that uses a "stepped" hull to
give additional lift.
Displacement Hulls - Displacement hulls typically have a rounded bottom with a tear drop shape running bow
to stern. Displacement hulls "displace" or move, an amount of water equal to the weight of the boat.
Displacement hulls are very efficient-- most long range cruising boats such as trawlers and many sailboats use
this type of hull. But because of their design, displacement hulls are restricted in their speed to the square root
of their waterline length times 1.34. Therefore, a 64 foot boat can realistically only expect a top end speed of a
little over 10 knots. The Cape Horn 65 pictured below shows several design elements typically found in
displacement hulled vessels such as a rounded hull form and a bulbous bow.
The following hull types are variations of planing and displacement hulls.
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Flat Bottom - Flat bottom boats are typically small open boats such as johnboats. Flat bottomed boats can easily get "on plane" or ride on top of the
water at high speeds. Flat bottom boats are typically intended for use on
calm waters such as ponds, small lakes, and slow rivers because they do
not handle well in choppy or rough water, especially at planing speeds. Flat
bottomed boats are not very stable, caution should be used when moving
around them.
Round Bottom - Round bottom boats almost "glide" through the water.
Because round bottomed boats are very efficient at moving through water,
most cruising sail and power boats have rounded hulls. Typically, round
hulled boats move at slow speeds. Most boats with this hull type will have a
keel, chines, or stabilizers, as the round form tends to roll with the waves-and tends to make everyone sea sick during rough weather.
Deep-V hull - "V-hulls" are designed to operate at high speeds and to "cut"
through rough water, which provides a smoother ride than flat-bottomed or
round hull boats. V-hulls are not as efficient as flat or round bottomed boats,
and need larger engines to move at similar speeds. The vast majority of the
boats sold today have a variety of the v-hull.
Cathedral hull - Cathedral or multi-hulls, are two or more hulls attached

closely together. This combination of hulls allows for much more stability
than what is found in other hull forms.
The air pocket that is formed between the hulls may also provide lift, helping
the boat get on plane more easily and increasing efficiency.
Tunnel Hulls - When you see a catamaran, you are looking at a tunnel hull.
Hulls are essentially two deep-v hulls joined by a platform/cockpit area.
Tunnel hulls are gaining in popularity, as they offer many of the benefits of
other hull designs, such as stability, speed, and roominess with few of the
drawbacks. Can operate in virtually any seas, and tends to ride better than
mono-hull boats.
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Registration Requirements
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Know the Law

Boarding Preparations
You've been stopped by the local marine patrol for a routine equipment check. According to your recent
Courtesy Marine Exam, you are carrying all required and recommended equipment. But, do you know what
else marine officers are likely to check?
Numbering and Registration
Just as you wouldn't drive your car without a license plate, current sticker, and registration, your boat must be
properly numbered, must have a current state use sticker, and your registration, or "certificate of number",
must be aboard. This is a requirement for all mechanically powered vessels, all vessels that travel on federal
waters that are navigable, and for vessels that travel on the high seas--virtually every vessel on the water.
Boat numbers must be affixed on the forward portion of both the port and starboard side. Numbers should be
at least three inch in height, the color needs to contrast with the hull color, and needs spaces or hyphens
between numerals and letters, as: MD 1234 AB or MD-1234-AB.
Also, most states require a current sticker immediately after or before the boat numbers on the port side,
generally within 6 inches. While most vessels must be registered, some--like canoes and kayaks, may not have
to be registered in your state. Also, fees and the length of registration vary from state to state. Many boaters
like to carry their boat papers on a floating key ring handle so they will always have them close at hand.
Finally, if you register your boat in your state of residence, but store it or use in another state, you might have to
register your boat in that state, or face a fine. Most states have "reciprocity" laws that allow visitation for a few
weeks or even a few months, but if your boat essentially resides in another state, you should expect to have to
register it in that state. Check with your state, and the state your boat resides in for specific laws. This
reference is included in the state law section of this course.
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Hull Identification Number
Your vessel will also have (if manufactured since 1972) a Hull Identification Number which is the serial number
of your vessel. This number is usually located on the upper right portion of the vessels' transom. This number
indicates the boat manufacturer, its serial number, and the month and year of production. This number is used
to register the boat, and to identify an individual boat.
DOCUMENTATION
Another option open to many boaters is to have their vessel federally documented--or registered with the US
Coast Guard. Documentation has several advantages, but its primary uses are to provide a "paper trail" that
establishes ownership of a vessel, and documentation is often necessary to travel overseas.
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While federally documented vessels are not required to display state registration numbers,
you may still be required to register the vessel with the state, and be required to pay any
sales taxes. Your best bet is to display the state numbers, and the federal documentation
sticker.
Ships are documented according to use--commercial, recreational, etc. While you may use
a commercial vessel for recreational purposes, you may not use a recreational boat for
commercial purposes. Doing so will result in the loss of documentation, and
fines/penalties.
Documentation numbers need to be permanently attached to a structural portion of the hull,
and the vessels' name and home port need to be listed on the hull--usually the transom.
Recreational vessels must have the name and hailing port listed in 4 inch letters.
Commercial vessels must do the same, but they must also have the name on both sides of
the bow.
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Documentation is only available for boats that admeasure 5 gross tons, which works out to be about 30 feet in
length. "Admeasurement" is a unit of volume - not weight. A boat that weighs 10,000 pounds might not qualify
for documentation. For more information on documentation, visit the USCG at http://www.uscg.mil/hq/gm/vdoc/nvdc.htm or phone 1-800-799-8362.
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LIFE JACKETS
There are five types of traditional foam flotation devices. Each is designed for different boating activities and
water conditions and has its own maximum buoyancy, performance level, and limitations. You should choose
your life jacket based on your boating activities and conditions, as recommended below. Buy a life jacket that
you will wear.
Try to buy a brightly colored jacket, such as orange or yellow, so that you will be visible to rescuers. Take it out
of the plastic, try it on, and learn how to adjust it for a snug fit. Then, test it in the water. Make sure it supports
you and keeps your mouth and head clear of the water with no effort on your part. Then, try pulling it on once
you're in the water... it's not as easy as it seems.
When should you wear your life jacket?
In general, the best time to wear your lifejacket is when you are near the water. Accidents happen...both on
the dock, and on quiet, still waters. In fact, most boating fatalities occur when the boat is moving slowly or not at
all. If you feel comfortable without a life jacket on during calm conditions, always keep your eye on weather and
water conditions as they can deteriorate very rapidly. Some times to consider wearing a jacket include;
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Boating at night, or at times of reduced visibility - When it is hard to see, it will take that
much longer to find you if you fall overboard.
In congested waterways - Many boats and turbulent water might make it difficult to see
you in the water. Wearing a PFD will get you higher up, and the jacket colors should make
you easier to see.
When you are by yourself - If you boat alone, there's generally no one around that can
help immediately.
If you boat in rough weather - Difficult sea conditions make for difficult rescues.
If you boat in hazardous waters - Hydraulics near dams, or in places with strong
currents/cold water--even if it's sunny and warm--can make it difficult to rescue you quickly.
Even if you avoid these situations, if you are on an unfamiliar boat, or in unfamiliar waters, you should
strongly consider wearing your life jacket. By law, recreational vessels must carry a properly fitted, and
serviceable PFD for every person on board. You must have life jackets READILY AVAILABLE for use.
That means they shouldn't be buried in a locker under a pile of gear, or still in their packaging. Have
them out, and ready for use. Better yet, wear them from the start!
What is buoyancy and Why is it important?
Buoyancy is the force, expressed in pounds, required to keep you afloat with your head and chin above the
water. Since everyone's buoyancy requirements are different based on size, weight, sex, age, percent body fat,
and general physical condition you should test your life jacket in the water to make sure it will offer you
maximum performance when your life depends on it.
TYPE I - Inherently Buoyant:

Recommended uses:
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When cruising, racing and fishing offshore , or when boating alone,

or in stormy conditions.
Minimum buoyancy: 22 lbs. (11 lbs. for child size)
Best for open, rough or remote water where rescue may be slow to
arrive. Will turn MOST unconscious wearers face-up in water.
Offers the best protection, but is somewhat bulky and
uncomfortable. Does the best job of retaining body heat, and
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keeping your head above water.
Inflatable:
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Minimum buoyancy: 34 lbs.

Recommended uses: offshore cruising, racing, fishing
Will turn unconscious wearer face-up
Advantages: two inflation mechanisms, both manual and automatic; very comfortable to
wear
Disadvantages: requires periodic maintenance; not suitable for whitewater, for use with
personal watercraft, or while skiing. So expensive that there currently aren't any Type I
inflatable PFD's available to the general public.
TYPE II - Near-Shore Inherently Buoyant:

Recommended uses:
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Inland day cruising, fishing and sailing. Good for boating in light craft,
such as canoes.
Minimum buoyancy: 15.5 lbs.
Good for protected, inland water near shore, where chances of
immediate rescue is good. Not suitable for extended survival in rough water. Will turn
SOME unconscious wearers face-up in water. Poor performer in rough water, often
requires you to tread water in order to keep your head above water.
More comfortable but less buoyant than Type I. Provides far lower level of performance.
INFLATABLE:
Recommended uses:
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Minimum buoyancy: 34 lbs.

Recommended uses: inland cruising, dinghy sailing and racing
Not guaranteed to turn unconscious wearer face-up
Advantages: very comfortable, more buoyant than Type II Inherently
Buoyant jackets
Disadvantages: High price , may be manual or automatic.
TYPE III - Flotation Aid Inherently Buoyant:

Recommended uses:
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Supervised activities, such as sailing regattas, dinghy races, water skiing, fishing,
canoeing, kayaking and during personal watercraft operation.
Good for protected, inland water near shore, where chance of immediate rescue is good.
Not suitable for extended survival in rough water. Not designed to turn unconscious people
face up in water.
Most comfortable to wear, but less buoyant than Type I.
INFLATABLE:
Recommended uses:
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Recommended uses: supervised activities such as sailing regattas, dinghy races,
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canoeing.
Not guaranteed to turn unconscious wearer face-up
Advantages: more comfortable than a Type III Inherently Buoyant jacket
Disadvantages: one manual inflation mechanism only
TYPE IV - Throwable Device Inherently Buoyant:

Recommended uses:
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Throw to overboard victim or to supplement the buoyancy of a person

overboard. It is not to be worn. Minimum buoyancy: 16.5 lbs. for ring
buoy or 18 lbs. for boat cushion.
Can be a cushion, ring or horseshoe mounted on deck.
For calm, inland water with heavy boat traffic, where help is always
nearby. Not for unconscious persons, non-swimmers or children.
NEVER to be used as a seat cushion! This degrades the foam and
reduces the amount of floatation that is provided.
NOTE - Type IV devices must be IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE for use. You must have one at arm's length to
throw over the side in an emergency. Having one in a locker under the driver's seat isn't considered
"immediately available."
TYPE V - Special Use Device:

Recommended uses:
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Restricted to the special use for which each is designed, for example:
sailboard harness, decksuit, commercial white water vest or float coats.
Must be worn when underway to meet minimum US Coast Guard
requirements.
Minimum Buoyancy: 15.5 to 22 lbs.
TYPE V INFLATABLE: Automatic inflation models

Recommended uses:
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Minimum buoyancy: 22.5 to 34 lbs. depending on style.

Restricted to the one use for which it is designed, ex., sailboard
harness, belt pack, deck suit, float coat.
Must be worn to meet federal requirements.
Not guaranteed to turn unconscious wearer face-up.
Some models feature a combination of CO2 inflation and built-in foam and provide 15.5 to
22 lbs. of buoyancy.
TYPE V - Hybrids
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Recommended for boating activities where rescue is nearby and must be worn when
underway. Minimum buoyancy: Have 7.5 lbs. of built-in foam buoyancy and can be inflated
to 22 lbs.
More comfortable to wear than Type I or Type II, but are inadequate for unconscious
overboard victims.
INFLATION MECHANISM: When activated, a CO2 cartridge is pierced, releasing
gas to inflate the device. Water-activated models inflate automatically when
submerged in water. Manual units are activated by yanking a pull-tab. Both types of
inflatables feature blow-tubes to provide a back-up method of inflation. It is
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important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for checking and maintaining your
inflation mechanism.
MAINTENANCE: Inflatable life jackets require more frequent maintenance than inherently buoyant life jackets.
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Check the status of the inflator to be certain cartridge is properly installed.

Check for leaks every two months; inflate life jacket orally and leave it overnight to check
for leaks.
Immediately replace any spent CO2 cartridges with new ones.
Frequent users of inflatables should check them often, especially if used around sharp
equipment like fishing gear.
Inflatables are NOT recommended for individuals who cannot swim (unless worn inflated) and are not for use
where water impact is expected, like water skiing or riding a jet ski.
LIFE JACKETS and KIDS

A life jacket is no substitute for adult supervision of children in and
around the water. Children float differently than adults. Because
their body weight is distributed differently, children are more likely
to float face down in the water. Children's life vests should have a
crotch strap and a neck collar for the most protection.
Youth PFD Wearing Requirements

(Photo by Tampa Tribune)
As of November 1, 2000 there are 37 states and territories that mandate
that children wear life jackets while on a boat under certain
circumstances. As of December 2002, if you boat in one of the states
without a children's PFD regulation, you are required to have all children
under 13 wear a PFD while under way, unless they are below deck or in
an enclosed cabin while boating on federal waterways.
This list does not include requirements for PFD usage while riding on a PWC or on a towed device such
as skis or an inflatable tube.
Follow these simple steps to safeguard your family:
CARE and STORAGE of YOUR LIFE JACKET
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Stow life jackets in an accessible place. Life jackets that are stored far
from where everyone sits, or under gear are virtually worthless in an
emergency. The USCG requires that wearable life jackets be READILY
ACCESSIBLE AT ALL TIMES. Also, at least one Type IV throwable device
must be IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE.
All kids should wear a properly fitted, bright, life jacket. Adults, for that
matter, should set the example for children by wearing a life jacket.
Families should mark each life jacket with the person's name and store
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them facing up.

Teach your children how to put on their life jackets. Make a game or race
of putting a life jacket on. It's the best way for children--and adults, to learn
how to don a life jacket quickly. To make it more difficult, try putting them on
in the water--it is far harder than you might think!
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR LIFE JACKETS...

DO'S:
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Check your life jackets at the beginning of each boating season.

Check that all hardware and straps are in good shape, are firmly attached,
and are in working order.
Check for leaks, mildew, lumpy or hardened buoyancy material, & oil
saturation in the fabric.
Make sure that there are no rips or tears in the fabric.
Make sure that the label stating USCG approval is attached, and that it is
readable.
DON'TS:
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Don't use a life vest or throwable flotation cushion as a kneeling pad or boat
fender.
Don't use harsh detergents or gasoline to clean it.
Don't remove any labels, straps or buckles.
Don't sew ANYTHING onto the life jacket.
STORAGE:
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Store in an area with good ventilation.

If wet, allow it to dry thoroughly in open air before storing.
Drying it in a dryer, in front of a radiator, or other source of direct heat will
destroy its buoyancy.
The amount of buoyancy (and life-saving value) your life jacket provides will decrease over time.
Treat your life jacket as if your life depends on it!
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To legally operate your vessel, both the Coast Guard and the states require you to carry certain equipment
aboard your boat.
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One personal flotation device (in good condition) for each person on board plus a
throwable cushion or ring is required. You must have the PFDs out of the plastic and in a
READILY accessible location. The throwable should be close by the steering station. For
more information on PFD's, (click here).
Three current-dated, hand-held, approved flares are minimum equipment to serve for
day and night distress signals, both inshore and offshore. For more information on Visual
Distress Signals,
(click here).
The correct number of approved fire extinguishers, readily available for use is based
on the size of your vessel. For more information on fire extinguishers, (click here).
You must have a sound making device. For more information on sounds, (click here).
Working running lights. For more information on lights, (click here).
Potentially Required Equipment:

VENTILATION SYSTEMS: If you have enclosed areas on your boat, a ventilation system can do many things
for you. If you have any gasoline powered engines aboard a ventilation system is a legal requirement. Good
ventilation can do many things for you--help prevent mildew and bad odors, to saving your life by taking carbon
monoxide and gasoline fumes out of the boat.
Ventilation systems must have two parts--an air inlet, and a separate air outlet. Both the inlet and the outlet
must have ducts--which are tubes or hoses that extend down into the boat. Ducting for the exhaust must be
located in the lower third of the hull--but above any bilge water. Ducting should be routed away from any heat
sources, should not be "kinked", and should be inspected regularly for cracks or debris. (Birds like to make
nests in ducts.) Intakes are usually pointed forward, exhausts usually face aft.
Boats must have a ventilation system that is adequate for the size space the system is used for. Larger boats
with larger compartments must have more ventilation--the figure is 15 square inches of opening for each cubic
foot of compartment. For most boats that works out to having two inlets and exhausts, with each vent having
ducting from 3 inch diameter hose for smaller boats to 5 inch hose for larger boats.
There are two types of ventilation systems that you should be aware of.
Natural Ventilation:
A natural, or passive, ventilation system consists of
vents, cowls and other permanent openings in the boat
that are designed to let air enter or exit using wind power
or the boats' motion to move the air.
This type of system is rather ineffective at clearing fumes
when the boat is not in motion, so it used primarily for living spaces and tank/bilge
areas. It can be used in engine compartments, but only in conjunction with
powered blowers.
Power Blowers/vents:
A bilge blower is important not only because it's required, but because your life
may depend on it.
The USCG stipulates the use of a mechanical ventilation system for all non-open
boats built after July 31, 1981 that run on gasoline.
Even if your boat is older, it still must conform to
3/9/2004
USCG minimum ventilation levels, and may require a bilge blower to satisfy those
guidelines.
Bilge Blowers are specifically designed to clear gasoline fumes from closed compartments. They are ignition
protected to prevent sparks, and are built to resist overheating and corrosion. The size blower you need is
determined by the volume of your engine compartment. It is recommended that you use a blower at least 4
minutes before you ever start the engine, and especially after fueling.
BACKFIRE FLAME ARRESTOR: With some minor and technical exceptions, every
inboard gasoline engine must be equipped with an acceptable means of backfire
flame control-or "flame arrestor." This safety device prevents an exhaust backfire
from causing an explosion. It operates by absorbing heat.
Flame arrestors no longer require Coast Guard approval; the USCG now accepts
flame arrestors complying with Underwriters Laboratories Standard 1111 or Society
of Automotive Engineers J1928. When in use flame arrestors must be secured to the
air intake of the carburetor with an airtight connection. Elements must be clean, and
grids must be tight enough to prevent flames passing through. Cleaning with soap
and water is the best way to maintain its effectiveness.
Don't Leave Port Without It!

We've put together a list of required and recommended boating equipment:
U.S. COAST GUARD MINIMUM EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
Boats less than 16 16 to
26 to less than 40 feet 40 to not more than 65
feet
less than
feet
26 feet
Recreational boats must carry Coast Guard approved Personal Flotation Devices, in
good and serviceable condition, and of the appropriate size for the intended user.
Personal
Wearable PFDs must be readily accessible, not stowed in bags, locked or closed
Flotation
compartments or have other gear stowed on top of them. Throwable devices must be
Devices (life
immediately available for use. There must be one Type I, II, III, or V PFD for each
jackets)
person on board or being towed on water skis, etc., PLUS one Type IV throwable
device. Throwable, Type IV PFDs may no longer be substituted for wearable types on
boats less than 16 feet. State laws on mandatory PFD wear may vary.
At least one B-1 type (see
At least two B-1 type
At least three B-1 type
Fire
approved portable fire approved portable fire
Extinguishers below) Coast Guard-approved
hand portable fire extinguisher. extinguishes; OR at
extinguishers; OR at least
(Coast Guard
Not required on outboard boats least one B-2 type.
one B-1 type PLUS one B-2
Approved)*
less than 26 feet long and not
type.
carrying passengers for hire if
the construction of such
motorboats will not permit the
entrapment of explosive or
flammable gases or vapors, and
if fuel tanks are not permanently
installed.
Visual Distress Must carry approved Must carry visual distress signals approved for daytime and
visual distress signals nighttime use. For pyrotechnic devices (hand-held or aerial red
Signals
for nighttime use.
flares, floating or hand-held orange smoke, and launches for
aerial red meteors or parachute flares) a minimum of three
required, in any combination that totals 3 for daytime and 3 for
night use. Three day/night devices will suffice. Devices must be
in serviceable condition, dates not expired and stowed
accessibly. Exceptions are open sailboats less than 26 feet long
and not equipped with propulsion machinery, and manually
propelled boats; both required to carry only night signals.
Every vessel less that 39.4 feet (12 meters) long must
Every vessel 39.4 (12
BELL,
carry an efficient sound-producing device.
meters) long, but less than
WHISTLE
65.6 feet (20 meters) must
EQUIPMENT
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carry a bell and a whistle.

At least two ventilator ducts fitted with cowls or their equivalent for the purpose of
properly and efficiently ventilating the bilges of every closed engine and fuel tank
compartment of boats constructed or decked over after April 25, 1940, using gasoline
as fuel and other fuels having a flashpoint of 110 F or less.
VENTILATION At least two ventilator ducts for the purpose of efficiently ventilating every closed
compartment that contains a gasoline engine and every closed compartment
containing a gasoline tank, except those having permanently installed tanks vented
(boats built
after August 1, outside the boat and containing no unprotected electrical devices. Also, engine
compartments containing a gasoline engine with a cranking motor must contain power1980)
operated exhaust blowers controllable from the instrument panel.
VENTILATION
(boats built
after April 25,
1940)
One approved device on each carburetor of all gasoline engines installed after April 25,
BACKFIRE
1940, except outboard motors. Device must be marked to show compliance with SAE
FLAME
J-1928 or UL 1111 Standards.
ARRESTOR
* When fixed fire-extinguishing system is installed in machinery spaces, it will replace one B-1 type
portable fire extinguisher.
Coast Guard minimum equipment requirements vary with the size of the boat, type of propulsion, whether
operated at night or in periods of reduced visibility, and, in some cases, the body of water on which it is used.
For a more thorough discussion and complete details on how many and what types of equipment you must
have aboard your boat, request a free copy of the pamphlet "Federal Requirements for Recreational Boats'
from the Coast Guard. For a copy, call their Infoline at (800) 368-5647. Many state requirements go beyond
Coast Guard requirements. Contact your state boating office for details.
Recommended Equipment:
Coast Guard minimum requirements are just that, minimum.
It is suggested you carry additional safety equipment, such as:
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anchor with sufficient line/chain (at least five times water depth)
bailer (bucket)
oars or paddles
first aid kit
VHF radio
extra fuel & water
tool kit
sun protection
flashlight
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NAVIGATION LIGHTS
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Navigation lights are used to prevent collisions at night or in times of reduced visibility, and are an essential tool
in keeping you and your vessel safe. Nav lights allow you to see other nearby vessels, and allow other vessels
to see you.
Nav lights also provide information about the size, activity, and direction of travel. By understanding the
characteristics of Nav lights, you can determine an appropriate course of action as you approach another
vessel.
On any vessel, navigation lights have a specific color, (white, red, green, yellow, blue), arc of illumination, range
of visibility, and location, as required by law and regulations. For the purposes of this course, we will
concentrate on pleasure boats under 65 feet in length. Knowledge of navigation lights is important to a smallboat skipper for separate, but important, reasons:
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You are legally responsible for displaying lights of the proper color, intensity, location and
visibility on your boat.
You are required to display the appropriate lights at night or during times of reduced
visibility.
Knowing the type and heading of another boat.
Legal Requirements:
Vessels are required to show the proper navigation lights from sunset to sunrise in all weather conditions, good
and bad. During these times, no other lights that could be mistaken for lights specified in the Rules of the Road
can be displayed, nor any lights that impair the visibility or distinctive character of navigation lights, or interfere
with the keeping of a proper lookout. The Rules also state that navigation lights must be shown in conditions of
reduced visibility, and may be shown at other times considered necessary.
Lights must adhere to the standards listed in the following chart:
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It's Your Responsibility:

It is the responsibility of the owner/operator of a vessel that she show the proper navigation lights for her size
and the waters in which she is operating. It is not the responsibility of the manufacturer, importer, or selling
dealer. Many boats are delivered with lights that do not meet legal requirements with respect to technical
characteristics or placement on the vessel. Remember also, that the angles of visibility must be met when the
boat is underway-if your boat rides at a significant bow-up angle, take that into consideration when installing
and/or checking your lights.
The following diagrams display typical light arrangements on motor vessels. For legal purposes, sailing vessels
with their motors on are considered to be motor vessels. The following lighting depictions therefore cover both
power and sailboats under power.
Light Shapes, Colors, and Positions # 1
Navigation lights on a powerboat
16a
Click Here for Animation
Click Here for Description
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NAVIGATION LIGHTS
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Navigation lights on a powerboat
16a
Sidelights - Colored lights - red on port and green on starboard - showing an unbroken arc of the horizon of
112.5 degrees, from dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on each side.
Combination lights - Sidelights may be combined in a single fixture carried at the centerline of the vessel.
Stern light - A white light showing over an unbroken arc of the horizon of 135 degrees, centered on dead
astern.
All-Around Lights
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NAVIGATION LIGHTS
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A light, the color determined by its use, showing over an unbroken arc of the
horizon of 360 degrees.
See animation
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NAVIGATION LIGHTS
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See animation
Masthead light - A white light placed over the fore-and-after centerline of the vessel, showing an unbroken light
over an arc of 225 degrees, from dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft (behind) the beam on both sides of the
vessel. On boats less than 12 meters (39.4 feet) in length, the masthead light may be off the fore-and-aft
centerline, but must be as close to it as possible. The term "masthead light" is something of a misnomer. More
often than not, this light is not at the top of the mast. On motorboats, it is often on a short staff at the top of the
cabin. On sailboats, it is usually part way up the mast, and called the "steaming light". Another light, the anchor
light, is usually at the masthead.
The following diagram shows typical lighting patterns that you will see on power vessels under 12 meters. All of
the following light patterns are legal, and there is no preferred pattern.
Sailboats under sail alone.

Sailboats under 20 meters in length and UNDER SAIL ONLY may display a tricolor masthead light instead of side lights. They may also display a red and
green all around light, with the red being the top light. As soon as the engine
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NAVIGATION LIGHTS
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goes on, even if your sails are up, you must also display sidelights.
Non-Powered Vessels
All vessels should use proper navigation lights. However, non-powered

vessels, such as canoes, kayaks, rowboats, and sailboats under 7 meters in
length are not required to have lights installed, and may use a flashlight for
navigation. The light does not have to be turned on at all times, but should be
turned on in time to avoid a collision. (Rule 25)
Anchor Lights
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NAVIGATION LIGHTS
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A common Navigation light that you will see near harbors or popular cruising
destinations is the anchor light. The anchor light is an all-around light that must
be visible for 2 miles in any direction. No other navigation lights should be on
while at anchor. Vessels under 7 meters, and not anchored in areas that boats
normally navigate do not need to display an anchor light, though it is a good
idea to do it.
Diving Lights
Another light display that you may see in resort areas, or waters that have wrecks or reefs, is the night diving
configuration. This has three vertical masthead lights, that have a red-white-red sequence. You must maintain
a good distance from these vessels, and you should also be aware that there may be divers near you.
INTERPRETING WHAT YOU SEE:

It's great that you're learning the basics of lights - what is required and when
they're required. But, this in only the beginning. You must also learn how to
interpret the navigation lights that you see when you are underway at night-and
for your safety-learn it well.
For instance, if you see a vessel approaching that shows a light pattern such as
the ones to the right, you immediately know that you are in a crossing situation,
and that you must yield to the other vessel - that's why it is red.
Seeing a green light over a white light indicates a fishing vessel actively trawling.
You not only need to avoid the vessel, but you also need to remember that it
could potentially have a very large net deployed that you will also need to avoid.
And there are numerous other lights and combinations of lights that you must be
able to instantly recognize - the lights for a sailboat that is privileged over a
motorboat, the special lights of various fishing vessels, a dredge or a vessel not
under command. Study the requirements for navigation from the viewpoint of a
"looker" as well as a boat owner.
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NAVIGATION SOUNDS
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SOUND SIGNALS
Just as lights play a significant role in understanding what other boats are doing, so do sounds. Understanding
what you hear is another step towards being a "complete mariner". Virtually every boat is required to have
some sound producing device. There is a great deal of latitude in what type of sound making device you
choose, but loud is good!
Legal Requirements
Equipment for Sound Signals is based on the length of your boat as follows:
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Boats less than 39.4 feet in length - must carry an efficient sound producing device. In
general, this may be a bell, whistle, or air horn. Though guns--even pots and pans--can
make a suitable sound signal useful in getting attention in an emergency, you should
always carry the appropriate equipment.
Boats at least 39.4 feet to less than 65.6 feet in length - Must carry a whistle and a bell.
The whistle must be audible for 1/2 nautical mile. The mouth of the bell must be at least
7.87 inches in diameter.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOUND OFF

Sound signals are to be used only when vessels are in sight of each other and are meeting or crossing at a
distance within half a mile of each other. These signals must never be used in fog or other conditions of
reduced visibility, where the vessels are not visible to each other by eye. Only the fog signals listed under the
Inland Rules, Rule 35 may be sounded at such time.
SIGNALS
Sound signals are called "blasts". There are two different blasts used for warning and steering
signals.
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Short Blast - Lasts about one second.

Prolonged Blast - Lasts from four to six seconds.
MANEUVERING SIGNALS
There are different blasts combinations for various movements on the water that may use both short and
prolonged blasts. When power-driven vessels are in sight of one another and meeting or crossing at a distance
within half a mile of each other, each vessel underway, when maneuvering as authorized or required by the
Inland rules must use the following sound signals:
Note: Inland Rules regarding sound signals are occasionally different from International Rules. Inland Rules
signal intended action and International Rules signal what you are actually doing. The following information
reflects Inland Rules. If you travel overseas, you must learn the International Rules.
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ONE SHORT BLAST - This means that you "intend to leave you on my port side" if you
are meeting or crossing another vessel. In other words, when you pass the other boat, the
left side of your boat will be next to the other boat. If you are behind another boat and
about to pass it, one short blast means that you "intend to pass on your starboard side".
TWO SHORT BLASTS -This means that you "intend to leave you on my starboard side in
a meeting or crossing situation." In other words, when you pass the other boat, the right
side of your boat will be next to the other boat. If you are behind another boat and about to
pass it, two short blasts means that you "Intend to overtake on your port side."
THREE SHORT BLASTS - This means that you are backing up, or using "astern
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NAVIGATION SOUNDS
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propulsion".
ONE PROLONGED BLAST - Signals that you intend to leave your dock. If you need to
back out of your docking area, you would sound one long blast, and then three short blasts.
FIVE SHORT BLASTS - This is the DANGER signal. Remember, that When you approach
another vessel and hear either one or two short blasts, and you both understand their
signal and can safely let them do it, then you are required to respond with the same signal
in response. However, if you don't understand their intentions, or feel that their proposed
maneuver is dangerous to either vessel, then you are required to sound the DANGER
signal.
NOTE: Another option is to use your VHF radio to reach agreement
with another vessel in a meeting or crossing situation. The Rules state
that vessels that reach agreement over VHF radio do not need to make
the required sound signals.
Power Driven Boats Crossing Port to Port
When you meet an oncoming vessel, and wish to pass port to port, you are
required to sound one short blast with your horn. If the other boat is in
agreement, they should respond with a similar blast.
Power Driven Boats Crossing Starboard to Starboard
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NAVIGATION SOUNDS
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If you approach another vessel head on, and wish to pass it on its starboard
side, you are required to sound two short blasts with your horn. If the other
vessel is in agreement, they should sound the same signal in response.
Power Driven Boats Passing to Port
When you are planning on passing another vessel from behind, there are
several things you must do. Any vessel that is overtaking another must keep out
of the way of the vessel being overtaken. This means that you can't expect
them to move, slow down, or change their course. If you plan on passing them
on THEIR starboard side, you must sound one short blast. If they understand
your signal and agree, they will sound one short blast in response. The vessel
being overtaken has a responsibility to maintain course and speed in order to
minimize the potential for collision.
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NAVIGATION SOUNDS
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Power Driven Boats Passing to Starboard
on THEIR PORT side, you must sound two short blasts. If they understand your
signal and agree, they will sound two short blasts in response. The vessel being
overtaken has a responsibility to maintain course and speed in order to
Power Driven Boat Leaving the Dock
There are particular sound signals that are to be used when you first get
underway. One prolonged blast signifies that you are about to get underway. If
you are going to make way in reverse, you need to signal an additional 3 short
blasts.
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Danger Signal
If you or a vessel that you are approaching feels that a dangerous situation is
developing, the danger signal should be sounded. The signal, which is 5 short
horn blasts, alerts nearby boats that you don't know what their intentions are, or
that you feel that there is a risk of collision.
OTHER SOUND SIGNALS

Reduced Visibility: Power Driven Vessels making way through water - one prolonged blast sounded at twominute intervals. Underway but stopped and making no way through the water : Two prolonged blasts in
succession with two second intervals between blasts sounded at two-minute intervals.
Sailboats or vessels not under command, restricted in ability to maneuver, towing or pushing another
vessel, or engaged in fishing with nets or trawling: One prolonged followed by two short blasts sounded at
two-minute intervals.
Vessels at anchor: A vessel at anchor shall at intervals of not more than one minute ring the bell rapidly for
about five seconds. Vessels over 100 feet must ring a bell in the forepart of the vessel, and immediately
afterwards in the after part of the vessel. Boats less than 12 meters (less than 40 feet) must make an efficient
sound with an interval of no more than two minutes. If you see a vessel approaching, you may also sound the
following signal: one short, one prolonged, and one short blast in quick succession.
Approaching a Bend or Channel Obstruction
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A vessel nearing a bend in a channel or fairway where other vessels may be

obscured by an intervening obstruction may sound one prolonged blast. If an
approaching vessel that may be behind the obstruction hears the signal, it
should be answered by one prolonged blast in response.
These are not the only rules concerning sound signals in restricted visibility; there are additional rules
concerning sound signals that may be found in the Rules Of The Road Or In Chapman's Piloting.
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COMMUNICATION
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In this age of e-mail, fax machines, pagers, and cell phones, there is no shortage of ways to get your message
across. But when you're out on the water, what's the best device to maintain your lifeline to shore?
Today's boaters are faced with many choices for ship-to-ship and ship-to-shore communications. VHFs, cell
phones, Family Radio Service radios, CB radios, Single Sidebands, and satellite communications are among
the myriad of choices available.
HAVING A CELL PHONE on board allows you to keep in touch with land-based people and businesses
easily. They are very convenient and should be used in tandem with a VHF.
Cell phones, although very convenient on land, are less reliable on the water. Most are not water
resistant, and their range is relatively short. The maximum range to and from a cell
antenna/station varies, but it is basically line-of-sight.
Range is further complicated by the fact that the majority of cell antenna/stations are placed with
land-based use in mind, so the distance offshore that a vessel can remain in contact is frequently
short.
Cell phones can also be expensive to operate, although there are many different packages
available. Your communication power with a cell phone is limited on the water because the other
ship you are trying to contact must also have a cell phone. In some areas, you can place a call to
the local Coast Guard station by dialing *CG.
Family Radio Service radios are intended for personal, non-commercial use like CB radios. They are
very handy because they can be used on land for communication without a license.
They are perfect for outdoor trips with friends and family where you need
to stay in contact.
And they also help with communications while still on the boat. You can
talk to each other from bow to stern, from below to above deck, and
more! The range is typically 1-2 miles and is line-of-sight like VHFs and
cell phones. They have limited battery power and no emergency channel.
They operate in the 460 mHz UHF band between VHF radios and cell
phones and transmit at 0.5 watts.
Because these units have become so popular, you may want to prearrange what channel you will be using and test it out-very often one or more channels will be
overloaded, especially in crowded areas.
Citizen band radio is intended to afford the general public economical access to two-way radio
communication. CB is allocated 40 specific frequencies between 26.965 and 27.405 mHz, commonly referred
to as channels 1-40.
Any channel may be used with either single or double sideband amplitude modulation except
Channel 9, which is reserved for emergency communications. CB stations are limited to 4-watt
carrier waves output power on DSB AM, and 12-watts PEP on SSB AM. The usual reliable range
of CB is five miles.
There are several pitfalls to having a CB radio on the water: Making contact may be difficult, since
not all boats have CB radios. Channel noise and station traffic are sometimes heavy, and the
Coast Guard doesn't monitor the emergency channel.
Single sidebands operate in the medium frequency (MF) and/or high-frequency (HF) bands for reliable
direct-voice communications over distances exceeding 25 miles (depending on antenna heights).
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SSBs are commonly available with an output power from 50-150 watts. An SSB's range is
affected by the strength of the radiated signal, among other things. The maximum reliable range in
the 2-3mHz (MF) band during the day is 50-150 miles. Transmission in HF band can reach
thousands of miles.
Unlike VHF radios, SSBs require a large ground plane in order to radiate its signal which except
on metal hulls, needs to be installed in the form of a large copper mesh panel (sometimes built
onto the fiberglass hull).
With SSBs, antenna selection and installation is also more complicated. SSBs generally require a
much longer antenna than VHFs, and different antenna tuning for different bands.
Satellite Communications such as Iridium is the first example of a

worldwide voice communication system which can be accessed using a
small hand-held telephone.
The 66 iridium satellites have the ability to forward voice phone calls
from one another and then relay the conversations to ground stations.
Magellan's GSC 100 Personal Satellite Communicator is for those
who need worldwide e-mail capabilities. Using 36 ORBCOMM
satellites, the constellation allows real-time data communications with
low per message costs and low hardware costs.
Our Recommendation for reliable on-the-water communications, we recommend using either handheld or fixed-mount VHF radios. When you're stuck in a jam-whether from engine failure or a fierce
storm approaching, a VHF radio can be your lifeline to the world.
In Coast Guard jurisdictions, VHFs are monitored 24 hours a day, seven days a week. For extra
assurance, the USCG and most TowBoatU.S. towers can locate your boat by tracking your VHF signal.
VHFs are handy in an emergency, but they have other uses: telephone calls to shore, obtaining
supplies and services such as marina reservations, and boat operations like drawbridge openings and
communicating with commercial and other recreational vessels.
The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) regulates marine radio traffic and dictates that all
other uses are secondary to safety, so chatting is frowned upon by the FCC and forbidden on Channel
16 and 9.
VHF RADIOS
Very High Frequency (VHF) radios have been around for many years and remain the primary means of
communication for vessels throughout the United States. The main uses of a VHF radio are:
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Distress calling and safety.

Ship to shore communications.
Navigation (vessels to bridges, etc.)
Marine operator to place calls to shore.
NOAA Weather Broadcasts.
They come equipped with a choice of transmitter power: one (1) watt for very close communication
(approximately one mile or less) or twenty five (25) watts for extended communication (up to approximately
twenty five miles). All of this is done usually with the push of a button.
If you need to communicate over a greater distance consider installing a Single Side Band (SSB) radio - which
has the capability to transmit over hundreds of miles.
If you are not sure whether you might have the need for Single Side Band radio please feel free to contact us at
your local BOAT/U.S. Marine Center and we can discuss the pros and cons.
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VHF radios come in many shapes, sizes and colors to meet anyone's needs today. Prices start at about
$119.00 for a basic model and can go as high as $1100.00 for the full - featured units. The main factor
governing prices of the VHF radios are the features available.
When choosing a VHF radio you should first make a list of the features you feel you want and need. For
additional information on VHF Radios, be sure to check out the BoatU.S. Foundation Findings at
http://www.boatus.com/foundation
DSC Capability
Digital Selective Calling, or DSC, is the equivalent of a "mayday button" on a VHF or SSB. When activated, it
automatically broadcasts an encoded distress call that will be picked up by all nearby vessels equipped with
DSC. If the radio is interfaced with a Loran or GPS, it will also automatically broadcast the distressed vessel's
position.
A few high-end radios now include it as a feature, so when it becomes fully operational, your VHF will be able to
take advantage of this latest feature. To use DSC, you must obtain a MMSI (Maritime Mobile Service Identity)
number.
You may do so free of charge at this web address: (click on link or copy and paste into your web browser).
http://www.boatus.com/mmsi. Keep in mind that the U.S. Coast Guard is not yet responding to DSC
transmissions. Currently, monitoring is scheduled to begin in 2005.
LICENSING
As of October 26, 1996, most recreational boaters are no longer required to obtain an individual Ship Station
License from the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). However, boaters still need a VHF Ship Station
License in the following categories:
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Those traveling to or broadcasting in a foreign port (including Canada, Bahamas,

Caribbean).
Those with boats 65 feet or longer.
Those using single sideband radios or Inmarsat equipment.
Commercial vessels.
Those traveling to or broadcasting in a foreign port must also obtain a Restricted Radiotelephone Operator's
Permit (RP). However, if you (1) merely plan to sail in domestic or international waters without docking in any
foreign ports and without communicating with foreign coast stations, and (2) your radio operates only on VHF
frequencies, you do not need an RP.
Forms can be obtained from your nearest FCC field office or from the FCC Wireless Communications Division
(se below). Call the Gettysburg office to locate your nearest field office, or call the FCC Form Distribution
Center at 800-418-FORM (3676).
For More information on FCC rules and regulations, and to download license applications, click on the button to
visit the FCC Marine Radio Fact Sheet.
CHANNELS
Most VHF radios on the market today have in excess of twenty twenty-five usable channels. Aside from the
U.S. channels there are also International and Canadian channels, all of which come standard with many of the
newer units on the market.
The most important channels on your VHF radio are 13, 16, 19, 22, and 70. Channel 13 is used by commercial
shipping to communicate their actions and confirm passage. Channel 16 (156.8 MHz) VHF-FM is designated by
the FCC (Federal Communications Commission) as the national distress, safety and calling frequency.
All vessels must monitor this channel while underway. Calls to other vessels are normally initiated on Channel
16 except for recreation vessels which may use (voluntarily) Channel 09 VHF-FM. The FCC has designated
Channel 09 as a recreational calling channel in order to eliminate congestion on Channel 16 VHF-FM.
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COMMUNICATION
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However, it is important to take note that the United States Coast Guard does not monitor Channel 09 VHF-FM
for distress calls. Any vessel in distress should use Channel 16 VHF-FM (which the Coast Guard does monitor).
Channel 22 is the most common working channel for USCG in the event of an emergency.
The following list of channels are those available in the United States for VHF Radio communications. Always
remember to check locally for channels authorized for use in your area as well as any local restrictions.
Channel 16 - Distress calling and safety, ship-to-ship and

ship-to-coast. Users must switch to a "working" channel after
making initial contact (except in emergencies). All vessels must
monitor Channel 16 when not using the VHF radio for other
purposes.
Channel 09 - Secondary calling channel (a new FCC Rule has

designated Channel 9 to be the preferred channel for calling).
The purpose of this change is to free Channel 16 for distress
calls.
Channel 06 - Ship-to-ship safety messages, and
communication with search and rescue and Coast Guard vessels

and aircraft.
Channel 13 - Ship to bridge or lock master, ship to tender
calls. Commercial vessel use primarily. One watt of power, used

for close in communicating.
Channel 22 - Used to speak with Coast Guard after initial

contact on Channel 16.
Channel 68, Channel 69, Channel 71 and Channel

72 - Used solely for communications between vessels.
Try to remember that your VHF is not a private telephone. It's more like an oldfashioned party line. Everyone can hear your conversation. Keep the conversation
short and to the point as there will be others waiting to use the channel. Also, do not
allow children play with the VHF radio.
Channel 01, Channels 07 through 11, Channel 18, Channel
19, Channel 63, Channel 67, Channel 79 and Channel 80 Commercial working channels and are reserved for commercial
vessels only. Also note that Channel 63 has no listen.
Channels 24 through 28 and Channels 84 through 88 - Are

reserved for Marine Operator communications for the purpose of
sending or receiving ship-to-shore phone calls.
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There is a charge for these calls, which is either applied to a personal account with the
phone company or treated as a collect call. All of these marine communication
services, (except for distress calls) - cost money.
Channel 13 and Channel 67 - These are navigational channels.
Channel 13 (all vessels) is for one watt of transmission power
only. Channel 67 (Commercial Only) is for one-watt transmission
power only. These radio channels are also known as the "bridgeto-bridge" channels. These channels are used for listening to ship
movements in tight waterways, locks, etc.
Channel 70 - Digital Selective Calling. Those few vessels with
DSC radios should use this channel for distress and calling
channel instead of 16. DSC may become mandatory by about the
year 2000.
Channel W1 through Channel W10 - These channels are

reserved for weather transmissions. For the most part only
Channels W1 through W4 are receiving weather broadcasts from
NOAA. These are receive-only channels.
ALL OTHERS - Virtually every radio manufactured today has every available channel. If your radio has
channels that you do not see on this list do not use them. These extra channels are reserved for government,
commercial, or vessel use only.
ANTENNAE
After you decide which
VHF radio is best for
you, your next step is
to pick out an antenna.
The VHF antenna is a
very important part of
your VHF Radio
System. VHF antennae
come in many lengths
and types so, before
buying a VHF antenna
contact an expert and determine which style best fits your needs. If you buy the wrong antenna you will not get
the performance your VHF radio is capable of producing. VHF and DSC equipment are made up of three
distinct parts - each part is equally important. These pieces are:
a. The transceiver
b. The coaxial cable with its connectors carrying the signal to or from the
c.
antenna and
The antenna itself. Even today the cables, connectors and antennae often do
not get the attention they demand.
Yet, their individual functionality has a notable effect on the performance of the system as a whole. The wrong
antenna or a damaged or poor quality coax cable can drain the transmission power therein wasting the money
spent for a good installation. At every frequency, besides being free from obstacles, the antenna has to meet
precise electrical and electronic requirements.
When choosing an antenna it is advisable to discuss with your dealer all the problems connected with the
installation, use of the equipment and the type of transceiver needed.
This will allow you further understand and tackle many problems before they arise. In case this sort of advice is
not available to you, the information provided below should be helpful in the selection of the proper antenna.
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GAIN - The "gain" is singularly the most important specification of the antenna. It is indicated in dB (Decibels)
which briefly means this: the higher dB numbers, the greater the range. On the other hand, a high gain will
decrease the antenna radiation patterns.
This means that low gain antennae are less influenced by the rolling and pitching of a boat. With increased
gain, the pitching movement of the boat may cause a temporary signal reduction.
These are the reasons why on the faster planing boats it is recommended that a high gain antenna be used.
Conversely, on sailboats, with a masthead installation and with the mast subject to swaying, it is recommended
that the 3 dB gain antenna be used.
HEIGHT- In general, the higher the antenna, the better the range of your radio. VHFs transmit via "line-of-site"
radio waves--therefore the higher the antenna, the farther your signal will reach over the horizon.
You may be able to talk to the local Coast Guard station that may be over twenty miles away (because they
have a very tall radio tower) but not your friend who is only a few miles away as their antenna is only a few feet
above the water. Having an antenna with the right gain, and located as high as practicable, will give you the
optimal operating conditions for using your VHF radio.
COMMUNICATING
(Click on image to see detail)

To use your VHF, turn it on and pick a channel, set the squelch to the point where you don't hear any white
noise, and begin talking. Things to remember when you are on the radio:
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Monitor channel 16 when you are not talking. While not required for recreational boaters, it
is an unwritten rule for radio users.
Don't tie up channel 16 or channel 9. If you are talking with someone, switch to a working
channel so you are not keeping others from using channel 16 or 9. In some instances, the
Coast Guard may even order you to switch channels if you are abusing these channels.
A VHF radio is not a telephone. When you use your VHF, everyone tuned to that station in
the area can hear you! Watch your language, and try to keep your conversations short and
to the point so that others may use the channel.
Using a VHF radio is one of the easier things to do on a boat, but their are things you need to do to operate a
VHF properly. Most VHF radios have some or all of the following:
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Volume knob
"Squelch" knob. Adjusting the squelch is similar to tuning your radio--it will make the
signal sound much more clear.
Channel knob or up/down buttons. This lets you change the channel you are using.
Channel display screen. This tells you what channel you are on, and also any other
feature that you may be using.
Weather button. This is a direct way to get to your local weather channels.
Scan Button. This will automatically change your radio channel to one that is currently
being used by other boaters. You may also be able to "Priority scan" which will allow you
to program specific channels that you frequently use.
16/9 button. Automatically takes you to either channel 16 or 9.
1/25 or hi/lo button. This allows you to raise or lower the power with which you broadcast
your signal. For boats close to you, use low power. For boats farther away, use high.
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COMMUNICATION
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INT/USA. Allows you to change channel type if you leave the United States for other
countries such as Canada.
Transmit button. This is usually on the mike. Simply push it down, and your radio will
transmit a signal.
EMERGENCIES
In emergency situations, there are certain procedures to follow to ensure prompt response to your need for
help. There are three phrases that you might hear on a VHF radio, and they all relate to safety.
MAYDAY - is the distress signal, and requires the most urgent response. This signal is only to
be used when a person, or boat is threatened by grave or imminent danger, and requires
assistance.
PAN-PAN - this signal is used to signal urgent information, such as when someone has fallen
overboard, or a boat is drifting into the shore or a busy shipping channel.
SECURITE - Is the safety signal. This is used to transmit information about the safety of
navigation. For instance, if a large commercial vessel is coming through a narrow channel, this
signal would be used. Can also be used to transmit weather information, such as when a
powerful storm system is approaching.
There is a "procedure" for sending out a distress call, but all you really need to know is to turn your VHF to
Channel 16 and high power, key the mike, and say one of the three phrases three times, along with position
and situation information.
Here's a hypothetical mayday from the fishing boat Tambourine.
"Mayday, Mayday, Mayday. This is the Tambourine. Our position is 24:33'
north and 74:56' west and we are sinking."
Try to speak slowly and clearly, and repeat this information three times. The essential information is Mayday,
your position, and your emergency. If you have time, describe your boat and how many are aboard:
"We are a 23' Mako, green hull, white decks, with two adults and two children
aboard."
If someone is injured, mention that.
If you don't get an immediate response keep periodically sending out a Mayday broadcast as long as the radio
will function, taking care to give your position with every transmission. If time permits, scan through the other
channels and interrupt any radio traffic you hear with your Mayday broadcast. If you don't hear traffic, try
transmitting on Coast Guard Channel 22A.
If your emergency isn't immediately life threatening, say Pan-Pan instead of Mayday. This is the urgency callPan-Pan, Pan-Pan, Pan-Pan (pronounced pahn). Make it just like a distress call, except state exactly what
assistance you want. For example, maybe you have a controllable leak, and you just want help standing by in
case it gets worse.
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VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS
Page 1 of 6
THE REGULATIONS
This information is directed primarily to recreational boaters, but the requirements discussed also apply to
operators of vessels engaged in the carrying of six or fewer passengers. The Visual Distress Signal
requirements for most commercial vessels are in Title 46 of the Code of Federal Regulations.
The requirement to carry visual distress signals became effective on January 1, 1981. This regulation requires
all boats when used on coastal waters, which includes the Great Lakes, the territorial seas and those waters
directly connected to the Great Lakes and the territorial seas, up to a point where the waters are less than two
miles wide, and boats owned in the United States when operating on the high seas to be equipped with visual
distress signals.
The only exceptions are during daytime (sunrise to sunset) for:
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Recreational boats less than 16 feet in length.

Boats participating in organized events such as races, regattas or marine parades.
Open sailboats not equipped with propulsion machinery and less than 26 feet in length.
Manually propelled boats.
These boats only need to carry night signals when used on these waters at night.
PYROTECHNIC VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALING DEVICES...

Must be Coast Guard approved, in serviceable condition and stowed to be readily accessible. If they are
marked with a date showing the serviceable life, this date must not have passed. Launchers produced before
Jan. 1, 1981, intended for use with approved signals are not required to be Coast Guard Approved.
USCG Approved Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals and Associated Devices include:
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Pyrotechnic red flares, hand held or aerial.

Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand held or floating.
Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares.
The purpose of the regulation is to assure that boaters have a way of attracting attention and securing
assistance should the need arise. Properly used visual distress signals will also help reduce the time it takes to
locate a boat in difficulty when a search is underway. This will reduce the possibility of a minor emergency
becoming a tragedy.
NON - PYROTECHNIC VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALING DEVICES...

Must carry the manufacturer's certification that they meet Coast Guard requirements. They must be in
serviceable condition and stowed to be readily accessible.
This group includes:
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Orange distress flag.

Electric distress light.
No single signaling device is ideal under all conditions and for all purposes. Consideration should therefore be
given to carrying several types. For example, an aerial flare can be seen over a long distance on a clear night,
but for closer work, a hand-held flare may be more useful.
Visual Distress Signals: Types
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A wide variety of signaling devices, both

pyrotechnic and non-pyrotechnic, can
be carried to meet the requirements of
the regulation.
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Recreational boats less

than 16' operating in
coastal waters need only
carry night signaling
devices when operated at
night. All other boats must
carry both night and day
signaling devices.
Any combination can be
carried as long as they
add up to three signals for
day use and three signals
for night use. Three day/
night signaling devices
meet both requirements.
Note: If pyrotechnic devices are selected, a minimum of three must be carried. Pyrotechnic devices come with
an expiration date, which is 42 months from the date of manufacture. To meet carriage requirements, you must
have at least three un-expired flares aboard. You may carry expired flares as back up, but they will not count
towards the legal requirement.
The following details a combination of devices which can be carried in order to meet the requirements:
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Three hand-held red flares (day and night). Flares must be under 42 months of age.
One electric distress light (night only).
One hand-held red flare and two parachute flares (day and night). One hand-held orange smoke signal,
two floating orange smoke signals (day) and one electric distress light (night only). Flares must be
under 42 months of age.
DAY USE ONLY

Hand Held Orange Smoke Distress Signals.
Floating Orange Smoke Distress Signals. These come in two varieties, one lasting approximately 5
minutes, one lasting 15 minutes.
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Orange Distress Signal Flag for Boats. The distress flag must be at least 3 x 3 feet with a black square and
ball on an orange background. It is accepted as a day signal only and is especially effective in bright sunlight.
The flag is most distinctive when waved on something such as a paddle or a boat hook or flown from a mast.
Sea-marker dye is useful when air search has been initiated. Comes in several colors, and should be used
when chances of being spotted are high.
Although not recognized by USCG as a carriage requirement, a well-handled signal mirror can be very
effective in calling attention to oneself. It is low in cost and has an unlimited shelf life.
NIGHT USE ONLY

Electric Distress Light for Boats: The electric distress light is accepted for night
use only and must automatically flash the international SOS distress signal, which is
three short flashes, three long flashes, and three short flashes. Flashed four to six
times each minute, this is an unmistakable distress signal, well known to most
boaters. The device can be checked any time for serviceability if shielded from view.
NOTE: An ordinary flashlight is not acceptable since it must be manually flashed
and does not normally produce enough candle power. The Regulation States: "No
person in-a boat shall display a visual distress signal on water to which this subpart applies under any
circumstances except a situation where assistance is needed because of immediate or potential danger to the
persons aboard."
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DAY AND NIGHT USE

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Hand Held Flare Distress Signal

Parachute Red Flare Distress Signals (25 mm or larger) These signals require use in
combination with a suitable launching device.
Hand Held Rocket-Propelled Parachute Red Flare Distress Signals.
Distress Signal for Boats, Red Aerial.
Pyrotechnic Flare (These devices may be either meteor or parachute assisted type.)
Some of these signals may require use in combination with a suitable launching device.
WARNING. . .
In some states the pistol launcher for meteors and parachute flares may be
considered a firearm. Therefore, check with your state authorities before
acquiring such launcher.
Visual Distress Signals: When and How to Use Them
Visual distress signals are part of your boat's safety equipment. Check them
before you leave harbor. Their intended purpose is to summon help should the
need arise. Visual distress signals can only be effective when someone is in a position to see them. Therefore,
when employing pyrotechnic devices, do so only when you see or hear a boat or airplane or you are reasonably
sure that someone on shore is in position to see your signal and take action. Good judgment is an essential
part of successful use of visual distress signals.
All distress signaling devices have both advantages and disadvantages. The most popular, because of cost,
are probably the smaller pyrotechnic devices. Pyrotechnics make excellent distress signals, universally
recognized as such, but they have the drawback that they can be used only once. Additionally, there is a
potential for both injury and property damage if not properly handled.
Pyrotechnics devices have a very hot flame, and the ash and slag can cause burns and ignite material that
burns easily. Projected devices, such as pistol launched and hand-held parachute flares and meteors, have
many of the same characteristics of a firearm and must be handled with the same caution and respect.
The hand-held and the floating orange smoke signaling devices are excellent (if not the best) day signals,
especially on clear days. Both signals are most effective with light to moderate winds because higher winds
tend to keep the smoke close to the water and disperse it which makes it hard to see.
Red hand-held flares can be used by day, but are most effective at night or in restricted visibility such as fog or
haze. Only Coast Guard or SOLAS flares are acceptable for use on recreational boats. When selecting such
flares look for the Coast Guard approval number and date of manufacture. Make sure that the device does not
carry the marking: "Not approved for use on recreational boats," and that no more than 3 years have passed
since manufacture.
What if you see a Visual Distress Signal given off by another vessel?
The unwritten law of the sea requires that a mariner come to the aid of a mariner in distress. Therefore, should
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you see a distress signal, immediate and positive action should be taken. Notify the nearest Coast Guard
station or State authority by radio. Channel 9 on CB and Channel 16 on VHF marine radio (156.8 MHz) are
recognized distress channels. If you can assist the stricken vessel without endangering yourself, you should.
The Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971 contains a "Good Samaritan" clause stating: "Any person ....who
gratuitously and in good faith renders assistance at the scene of a vessel collision, accident, or other casualty
without objection of any person assisted, shall not be held liable for any act or omission in providing or
arranging salvage, towage, medical treatment, or other assistance where the assisting person acts as an
ordinary, reasonably prudent man or woman would have acted under the same or similar circumstances."
FLAGS
Flags serve a variety of purposes in the marine environment. There is no legislation governing the flying of any
flag on numbered, undocumented or licensed vessels. However, there is a proper etiquette involved when
displaying flags.
Recreational boaters may fly flags to display boating affiliations. For example, many yacht clubs provide
triangular shaped burgees to members. And, members of the U.S. Power Squadrons and U.S. Coast Guard
Auxiliary fly flags to identify themselves. Boaters also fly flags to identify their home state or nationality.
Flags are also used for specific boating activities and navigational purposes. For
example, boats with scuba divers must fly a "diver down" flag when divers are in the
water. There are two types of diver down flags and both are appropriate to display.
They are a red flag with a white diagonal stripe and a rigid replica of an "alfa" flag.
Another example is the flags used by committee members and participants of
events sponsored by the United States Yacht Racing Union.
Flags are also used to signal your need for help. When in distress, a boat should fly an orange flag with a black
square and black ball. A man overboard flag, consisting of the letter "O", can be fixed to a staff which is in turn
fixed to a life ring.
ALFA
DIVER DOWN
JULIETTE
KEEP CLEAR
SIERRA
ENGINES GOING
ASTERN
BRAVO
DANGEROUS
CARGO
KILO
DESIRE TO
COMMUNICATE
TANGO
KEEP CLEAR OF
ME
CHARLIE
YEST
LIMA
STOP INSTANTLY
UNIFORM
DELTA
KEEP CLEAR
MIKE
I AM STOPPED
REQUIRE
ASSISTANCE
ECHO
ALTERING TO
STARBOARD
NOVEMBER
NO
WHISKEY
NEED MEDICAL
ASSISTANCE
FOXTROT
DISABLED
OSCAR
MAN
OVERBOARD
XRAY
GOLF
WANT A PILOT
PAPA
ABOUT TO SAIL
YANKEE
DRAGGING
ANCHOR
HOTEL
PILOT ON BOARD
QUEBEC
ZULU
REQUIRE TUG
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INDIA
ALTERING TO
PORT
Page 6 of 6
ROMEO
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WIND AND CURRENT
A boats handling characteristics are affected by wind and current, no matter what type of hull
and power combination it has. Keeping a course or maneuvering in close quarters may be
straightforward on a calm day during a slack tidal current, but the boat may become quite illmannered when coping with a stiff crosswind or crosscurrent.
Since bows on many power boats are higher than the terns, they tend to fall off the wind when
backing, despite anything that is done with the helm.
Hull type has the most effect on how a boat reacts to the current. Displacement-type hulls with
considerable draft are affected by current to a greater extent than shallower-draft, lighter,
planing-type hulls. Water is much denser than air, so a half-knot cross current may have more
effect on a displacement cruiser than a stiff 15 to 20 knot wind.
On the other hand, given the same conditions, a planing - type hull with a high tuna tower could
be more affected by wind than by current. Neither a displacement nor planing boat can ignore
the wind current. Skipper of both will find one of them a major factor affecting the boats
maneuverability. This becomes most apparent while running at low speed in close quarters.
TIDES AND SEA CONDITIONS
Large ocean undulations, generated by distant storms and unrelated to local causes, are called
swells. The surface of a swell may be perfectly calm, but it is usually textured by the wind into
groups of tiny ripples called "catspaws". The ripples gradually build into waves.
As the waves travel quickly over a long fetch, the distance free of obstructions, each crest
reaches higher above its trough. Increasing wind tears at the wave tops, revealing whitecaps
and throwing off spume. When this heavy sea encounters shallow water, its energy can no
longer be absorbed by the circular movement of water within each wave. The crests rise and
break. Surf crashes ashore.
The same sea, meeting a current, will rear up, creating a rip, sometimes amplified by the
narrowing funnel of an inlet. Over long fetches of shallow water, strong winds may create waves
of moderate height, but with a viciously steep and short chop- which is even more dangerous
than ocean waves of greater size. Lake Erie and Delaware Bay, for example, are two bodies of
water renowned for choppy conditions.
Both coastal and inland boaters are familiar with currents, the horizontal flow of water in a
downstream direction. Currents are also found in open water where they range from huge,
persistent ocean movements, such as the Gulf Stream or the California Current, to the strong
but short-lived undertow, or rip current, of a beach where surf finds its way back offshore.
Ocean, lake and river currents respond to the push of prevailing winds. In addition, ocean
currents are affected by variations in water density resulting from different levels of salinity and
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temperatures.
The largest currents are part of the worlds five gyres- giant circular oceanic currents. There are
two gyres in the Northern Hemisphere that travels in a clockwise direction: one circling the North
Atlantic; the other, the North Pacific. Three gyres in the Southern Hemisphere circle the South
Atlantic, the South Pacific and the Indian Ocean in a counterclockwise direction. While the gyres
are surface currents, there are other equally important countervailing deep currents.
Regular, intermittent currents that respond to movement of the sun and moon are called tidal
currents. Tides are the actual rise and fall in local water level as tidal currents force masses of
water alternately against and away from shore. Incoming tidal currents flood, then ebb as they
retreat.
The strongest are associated with spring tides during new and full moons, when the moon and
sun pull in parallel directions. Tide currents flow more gently as neap tides that occur at the
quarter moon.
Every current, regardless of its origin, has a set and a drift (speed). Set is the true direction
toward which a current flows; drift is its speed. The speed of tidal currents and the height of the
tides are so important to coastal navigation that annual tide tables and tidal current tables are
published under government supervision
Depending upon the bodies of water on which you boat, tides can have a major impact on your
boating experience. Watch the tide charts or listen to tide reports in your area before you go
boating. Going aground is never a good time.
To find more information on tides and currents that affect your area, you may look in a local tide
table. Tide tables offer a broad range of information about tides, including when high and low
tides will occur, and what the high and low tides will be at a given location. You may also see
current information such as the speed of the current and when the current changes direction.
While tide tables offer the most information about tides, you may also find tide information in
your local paper, on the weather reports, or on the VHF weather stations. Below are sample
tide and current tables. To find tide information in your area, you may go to the following site
http://www.boatus.com/news/mweather.htm/
Tide charts let you know how much variation there will be in the tide in each
24 hour period.
The tide chart is broken down by time, and gives the corresponding height of
the tide, and whether it is a high or low tide.
Knowing how the tide affects the depth of the water can save you an
expensive towing bill
You can also find the speed and the direction on some, but not all, tide charts.
You will generally find this information on charts that serve major shipping
channels or ports.
Tide information lets you know when the current is either weak or strong, and
what stage of the tidal cycle you are in. This can be important if your vessel
has difficulty in strong currents.
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Some channels and inlets can be very dangerous when the tide is running, and knowing when
and when not to enter the channel can make your boating trip a disaster, or an enjoyable trip.
WEATHER AVOIDANCE
Most commercial radio and television stations give marine weather broadcasts during the
boating season, with updates several times a day. Other sources of weather information include
NOAA, the National Weather Service, and other government agencies.
Make a habit of listening to your local broadcast beginning the night before
you plan to go boating.
Get the most current forecast just before you set out.
You may want to purchase a small, inexpensive battery-operated weather
radio, available at many retail electronics outlets.
Underway... Scan the airwaves and the horizon

On the water, the best way to receive timely weather information is by radio. NOAA Weather
Radio provides continuous weather programming for most boating areas on your VHF radio. For
other weather broadcasts and their frequencies, see the chart below.
Although sportsmen may have better luck on cloudy or windy days, being out in a boat in bad
weather can be very risky. High winds, rough water and thunderstorms can suddenly turn a
pleasant outing into a frightening experience.
When you go out on your boat, you should know the current forecast, and have a way to receive
warnings and weather advisories while underway. Making boating safety your first priority is the
best way to ensure you will be back again next sporting season.
Even with today's high-tech weather forecasts and radios, there's no substitute for the timehonored practice of scanning the horizon for changes in the wind, waves, water, and sky that
signal developing weather patterns.
FOG...
Fog is one of the more unpredictable weather patterns

that you might encounter, and it takes practice and skill to
knowingly enter fog and not have a panic attack. Here are
a few tips to cope with fog...
If you can afford them, try and have a

depth/fish-finder, a LORAN or GPS, and a
radar aboard. Used in conjunction with a
chart, they can help you avoid hitting objects.
If you have these items aboard, practice using
them! Go out on a clear day, and practice
navigating by instrument.
If you don't have electronic equipment, use the equipment nature gave you--
vvvvvv
your eyes, your ears, and your brain, and follow these steps:
STOP! Assess your situation--are you in a busy channel, or near shore? Or
are you out in the open? Being aware of your surroundings is the first step in
coping with fog.
If you can, anchor your boat, and simply ride out the fog. But listen closely for
other vessels that
might approach, and make sure that you have a sound making device to let
the other vessels
know of your presence.
If you must proceed, go slowly. Going fast puts you at much greater risk--it is
harder to hear other vessels, you will have less reaction time to avoid an
accident, and if you do get in an accident, it will be more severe than if you
were going slowly.
Don't try and hug the shore, or head back to harbor, it is an accident waiting to
happen. Instead, try and move your vessel to an uncongested, deep area of
water and wait.
THUNDERSTORMS...
Thunderstorms are created when warm, moist air
rises, cools and condenses.
It swells into mounds of thick, billowy cumulous
clouds that quickly darken into the towering
ominous-looking cumulonimbus clouds
characteristic of thunderstorms.
Consider the formation of this thick, dark cloud

an unmistakable thunderstorm warning, and
head immediately for a safe anchorage. The
transition from a small cloud into a turbulent,
electrified storm front can occur in as little as 30 minutes. The barometer will drop quickly and
strong, gusty winds and heavy rains with thunder and lightning will soon follow. Fortunately, few
squalls last more than an hour.
The sharper, darker and lower the front edge of the cloud, the more severe the storm. The anvilshaped top of the storm cloud points in the direction that the storm is traveling.
In summer, afternoon thunderstorms are likely to occur over water when the humidity and
temperature ashore are high. Hot air radiates upward from land surfaces heated by the sun.
Moisture from a nearby body of water is absorbed by the warm air, which rises to begin the
formation of thunderheads.
They usually appear as swift-moving black clouds, often approaching from the northwest
southwest, south or west at speeds of 25-35 knots.
You can determine the distance of an approaching thunderstorm by counting the number of
seconds between the lightning flash and the thunder clap, and dividing by five.
vvvvvv
That will give you the distance in miles you are from the storm. For example, if the time lapse
between the lightning flash and the thunder clap is 10 seconds, divide by 5. The storm is
approximately 2 miles away from you.
Another handy tip that a thunderstorm is near is to tune your radio to any AM station.
Thunderstorms will create static crackling on a station that would otherwise sound clear.
If you are about to be caught in a Thunderstorm...
Make sure everyone aboard is wearing a life jacket.

Secure all loose gear, hatches or ports.
Determine your location and the best course back to shelter.
Keep a sharp lookout for the other boats and obstructions.
Once the Storm Hits...
Try to take the first (and heaviest) gusts of wind on the bow, not abeam.
Heading into the wind is the most seaworthy position for most small boats.
Approach waves at a 45 degree angle to keep the propeller underwater, to
reduce pounding, and to provide a safer and more comfortable ride.
If there is lightning, unplug radios and all electrical equipment.
Stay low. Don't make yourself the tallest target. Keep away from metal objects
that aren't grounded to the boat's protection system.
LIGHTNING STRIKES!
The best protection against lightning is avoidance. Lightning is random, unpredictable and very
dangerous. Here are some tips to help you avoid Lightning while on the water!
The best protection against lightning is avoidance.

Head into shore well ahead of the turbulence.
Lightning can lash out for miles in front of a storm, and it can strike after a
storm seems to have passed.
Look for tall clouds that have an anvil shaped top (cumulonimbus) These
clouds can be VERY large, reaching several miles high and several miles in
circumference. Squall lines preceding cold fronts also produce thunderstorms.
Listen to NOAA weather reports for storm reports. These reports are available
on your VHF radio, and also on some marine stereo systems. If you see
lightning, you can determine the distance from you by timing how long it takes
for you to hear the thunder. Every five seconds of time equals one mile of
distance. If it takes 20 seconds to hear thunder after you see lighting, then the
storm is four miles away.
Thunderstorms usually occur where air masses of dissimilar temperatures
meet such as over mountains, over inland or coastal waters, or preceding a
cold front.
Air must have a high moisture content (high humidity and a dew point over 60
degrees) and be warm near the ground, such as on a typical summer day.
When warm ground air rises and meets colder air, it condenses and forms
vvvvvv
water droplets. Condensing releases energy, which charges the atmosphere,

and when the dissimilar charge between the negatively charged surface air
and the positively charged highest parts of the cloud gets large enough, an
explosion of lightning is created, with up to 30,000,000 volts of electricity!
Thunderstorms generally move in an Easterly direction, so if you see a storm
to the South or Southeast of you, by and large you can rest easy. If you see a
storm to the West or Northwest of you, LOOKOUT!
Turn off as much of your electronic equipment as you can, (unplugging
equipment is even better) and try and stay in your boat's cabin if possible.
For a few first hand accounts of what can happen in a thunder storm, go to the BoatU.S.
Insurance magazine SEAWORTHY website. For information on lightning protection, call the
Coast Guard InfoLine at 1-800-368-5647, or contact:
National Lightning Safety Institute
891 North Hoover Ave.
PO Box 778
Louisville, CO 80027-0778
Phone: (303) 666-8817
Fax: (303) 666-8786
WEATHER INFORMATION BROADCASTS
NOAA Weather Radio operates continuously on the following frequencies:

162.400 MHz (channel 1), 162.475 MHz (channel 2), 162.550 MHz (channel 3)
Your ability to tune in to any particular station depends on your position. NOAA
transmitters are placed in frequency order- your ability to receive a weather
broadcast for a particular area depends on your location relative to the transmitter. A
broad, average range for frequency reception is 20 to 40 miles.
NOAA broadcasts current weather conditions such as temperature, humidity, wave conditions,
dew point, barometric pressure, wind speed and direction, and other weather information. For
more severe weather, NOAA uses the following descriptions:
Small Craft Advisory: Observed or forecast winds of 18 to 33 knots--Small Craft Advisories
may also be issued for hazardous sea conditions or lower wind speeds that may affect small
craft operations. (note: There is no legal definition of the term "small craft".)
Gale Warning: Observed or forecast winds of 34 to 47 knots.

Storm Warning: Observed or forecast winds of 48 knots or greater.
Tropical Storm Warning: Observed or forecast winds of 34 to 64 knots or
higher associated with a tropical storm.
Hurricane Warning: Observed or forecast winds of 64 knots or higher
associated with a hurricane.
Special Marine Warning: Observed or forecast winds of 34 knots or more
associated with a squall or thunderstorm and expected to last for two hours or
less.
vvvvvv
For boating safety weather rules, see Safe Boating Weather Tips (NOAA PA 94058) at
http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/nwspub.htm.
Preventative Maintenance
WHY BOATS SINK
Page 1 of 8
(AND HOW TO KEEP THEM AFLOAT)

The cost of repairing a boat that has been underwater, even briefly, is usually
about 40% of its value.
Besides having to pay the deductible, the skipper typically loses the use of the
boat for several weeks while it is being repaired. The best defense against a
dockside sinking?
Visit your boat. And, at least twice a season, inspect any fittings above or below
the waterline that could be letting water into the boat. All too often, skippers rely
on bilge pumps to bail them out when they cant visit their boats.
The pump fails and the boat sinks. If you cant visit your boat regularly, consider
using a buddy system with other boat owners to watch each others boats.
Modern boats sink for a variety of reasons, which is the point of
this section. According to the BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim
files, for every boat that sinks underway, four boats sink in their
slips. There are two reasons for this discrepancy.
One reason is whenever a boat leaves the dock, someone is
aboard, which leaves open the possibility that the leak will be
discovered and the problem corrected before it sinks the boat.
And, reason # 2, boats tend to spend a majority of their time at
the dock.
Boats with motor
wells such as this have scuppers that can become clogged with
debris. In the case of this boat, the access port had been opened
but not resealed. Water trickled into the bilge when it rained,
eventually overwhelming the bilge pump.
WHY BOATS SINK AT THE DOCK

When a boat sinks at the dock, the question most likely to be asked is: What happened to the bilge pump?
Thats the wrong question, however. By dutifully emptying the bilge periodically, a bilge pump can actually hide
a problem--until the pump clogs or the battery goes dead. Water, not bilge pumps, sinks boats. The correct
question should be: Where did the water come from?
z
In 50% of dockside sinkings, water found its way into the bilge through leaks at underwater fittings. The
majority of the leaks are at stuffing boxes, followed by outdrive or shift bellows, failed hoses or hose
clamps, sea strainers, and drain plugs.
There were sinkings from air conditioning fittings, gate valves, transducers, mounting bolts, and mufflers.
Boats went to the bottom as a result of a leaking speedometer impeller. It is certainly possible that more
than one fitting had been leaking.
It is also interesting to note that the finger was pointed at fittings above the waterline in 9% of the sinking
claims. (Question: How can a fitting that is above the waterline sink a boat? Answer: Fittings that are
above the waterline aren't always above the waterline.) More on this later.
Water falling from the sky, either rain, snow, or sleet, accounts for a whopping 32% of sinking claims.
Everybody has seen a rowboat or two awash, so this shouldn't be a surprise. What may be startling is
3/9/2004
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Page 2 of 8
that all of the claims involved boats with self-bailing cockpits that should have shed the water overboard.
Boats that sank after getting caught under a dock or banging against a piling accounted for 8% of
sinkings. This number does not include boats that sank during hurricanes, or the number would have
been much higher.
VISITING YOUR BOAT:

The First Line of Defense Against a Dockside Sinking
If you need a reason to visit your boat more often, consider that the cost of repairing a boat that has been
underwater, even briefly, is usually about 40% of its value. Besides having to pay the deductible, the skipper
typically loses the use of the boat for several weeks while it is being repaired.
At least twice a season, inspect any fittings above or below the waterline that could be letting water into the
boat. All too often, skippers rely on bilge pumps to bail them out when they cant visit their boats. The pump
fails and the boat sinks. If you cant visit your boat regularly, consider using a buddy system with other boat
owners to watch each others boats. Another alternative is to ask your marina manager to keep an eye on the
boat. Many marinas offer routine inspections, but usually at an extra cost.
Here are a few things you need to check regularly to help prevent your boat from sinking...
z
Damaged Outdrive Boots - Boats frequently sink because the rubber boots on the outdrive
deteriorated. According to experts, outdrive boots should be examined two or three times a year. Rubber
that looks dried out and cracked (cracks are most likely to appear in the creases) needs replacing.
If possible, store the outdrive down, which eliminates most creases and prolongs the life
of the rubber. Finally, for whatever reason, muskrats and other water-swimming vermin
like to chew on outdrive boots. "RO-PEL" a malodorous commercial product, is an
effective deterrent (One source: United Spray Systems: 800-950-4883.)
Damaged Mufflers - Backfiring can blow a hole in a plastic muffler. Corrosion can eat a hole in an metal
muffler. Both the muffler and the exhaust hose should be inspected carefully.
Dockside Freshwater Hookups - Many boats sink because of problems in the boats' dockside
freshwater systems. Water may enter through a broken fitting in the boat's hot water heater. Many sink
after a hose burst (the freshwater system hadn't been properly winterized). The first line of defense
against this sort of sinking is to turn off the water at the dock whenever you'll be away from the boat for
more than a few hours.
(There are also devices available at hardware stores that can be preset to shut off the
water supply automatically.) Hoses and clamps throughout the system should be
inspected periodically. While you're checking, make sure there's a pressure-reducer valve
and only reinforced hose (look for the criss-cross pattern if the hose is made of clear
PVC) is used, which accommodates the greatly increased pressure of a city water
system.
Through-hull Fittings - As a general rule, a boat whose gunwale is close to the water (low freeboard)
has a greater chance of sinking accidentally. A ski boat, for example, is more likely to be overcome by
rainwater, a slow leak, or a following sea than a cruiser whose impressive hull towers far above the
water.
But a boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in the bilge. Doubleclamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline.
Scuppers and drains - Even aboard boats with cabins and self-draining cockpits, it isn't unusual to have
a leak or two at hatches, ports, chain plates, etc. Caulking these leaks keeps water out of the bilge and
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Page 3 of 8
also may prevent costly structural repairs later. Open boats and boats with especially low freeboard
should be hauled for the winter in colder climates, as they are prone to being shoved underwater by
snow and ice.
When scuppers are clogged with leaves or debris, water backs up and has a tendency to
find a way into the bilge. Two other sinkings occurred because scuppers were cracked or
broken scuppers and water leaked into the bilge.
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Seacocks & Valves - According to voluntary industry standards, seacocks or gate valves, which can be
closed in an emergency or when the skipper is away from the boat for extended periods, must be used at
all thru-hulls below the heeled waterline. The valves and fittings must be made of bronze or Marelon,
which are not likely to break when struck accidentally with a foot or anchor. (RC Marine's Marelon
seacocks are the only plastic seacocks that meet the requirements of Underwriters Laboratories.)
Seacocks are widely regarded as being more reliable than gate valves. In an emergency,
a quick glance at a seacock will tell you whether it is open or closed. With a gate valve,
you can't tell. Gate vales also have a reputation for failing internally because the different
metals-steel inside, bronze outside-aren't compatible. Look for a pinkish color on the
bronze, which indicates corrosion.
Other thru-hulls that need inspecting periodically are transducers and raw-water intake
strainers. Ice can bend a strainer that isn't winterized properly. You should either drain the
bowl or fill it with antifreeze. Even if the seacock has been closed for the winter, water can
enter the boat when the seacock is opened in the spring.
Removable transducers and impellers must be locked in place securely or they can work
loose and sink the boat.
Boats sink when hoses slip off the seacocks' nipples. Hoses connected to the fittings
must be double-clamped with stainless steel clamps. Rusted clamps should be replaced.
Boats sink because a hose split. Hoses at thru-hulls should be the reinforced type, which
is usually a heavy black hose. Lighter, unreinforced PVC hoses can (and do) rupture and
crack. Check the entire length of the hose, as excessive heat from the engine or
chemicals (bilge cleaners, battery acid, etc.) can cause isolated failures. Replace any
hoses that are suspect.
Keep the boat away from the dock - Boats sink because they either get caught under the dock or bang
against the dock. Bow, stern, and spring lines should be arranged to keep the boat in the center of its
slip.
Fenders and fenderboards can be used to cushion minor bumps but they will not
overcome a poor docking arrangement. Double up on lines and use chafe guards if the
boat is in an exposed location.
Plastic thru-hulls turn brittle and eventually crack form ultraviolet (UV) sunlight.
Failures usually occur inside the thru-hull opening. If the thru-hull is only an inch or
two above the waterline, rainwater or snow accumulations can force it underwater
and sink the boat.
A plastic thru-hull that was an inch or two
above the waterline cracked and the
weight of the snow lowered the damaged
fitting to just below the surface. The boat
gradually filled with water and sank.
This small whole in the
shift bellows cable was not
found until after the boat
had sunk.
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Page 4 of 8
WHY BOATS SINK
UNDERWAY
Any boat has the potential to sink underway for the same reasons that it could sink at the dock--a hose slips off,
a packing gland leaks, etc. Many boats sink because of leaks at thru-hulls, outdrive boots, or the raw water
cooling system, all of which are routinely implicated when boats sink at the dock.
There are also many other reasons that boats sink underway, however, which have nothing to do with loose
hose clamps or broken fittings. Boats underway can strike floating debris or stray onto a rocky shoal
(Navigation error). There are careless skippers who forget to install drain plugs. Many boats sink after coming
down hard off of waves and splitting open.
Once a boat starts to sink, it will gain momentum as it settles into the water. If a boat has a two-inch hole that is
a foot below the waterline, for example, over 78 gallons of water will pour into the boat per minute. When the
same hole is three feet below the surface, the flow of water increases to 136 gallons per minute. Keep in mind
also, that other thru-hulls that had been above the waterline will be underwater. If any of these fittings are
cracked or missing, the flow of water into the boat will accelerate further.
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Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped.
Aside from transom height, the other contributing factor when a boat is swamped is
typically weight distribution-- too many people at the stern together with scuba tanks,
large coolers, bait wells, etc. that reduces buoyancy aft. In most cases, swamping occurs
when the boats are stopped or idling.
Prevention: Especially on outboards with low cut outs, be conscious of weight
distribution. Avoid storing scuba tanks, heavy coolers, etc. near the transom At slow
speeds, keep the boat moving toward the waves. Don't ever anchor from the stern!
Most scuppers are slow to drain anyway, but when they're plugged up with leaves and
other boat-gunk the water can linger in cockpits and motor wells a dangerously long time.
Use a dockside hose with a power spray nozzle to flush out debris.
Drain Plugs - It's difficult to understand how a missing drain plug could sink a boat. Wouldn't the skipper
realize that the boat was filling up with water? Typically, the water is out of sight in the bilge until
hundreds of gallons have come aboard. By then, the boat might be floating well below its lines. In some
cases, the source of the leak wasn't discovered until the boat was raised.
Prevention: How can an absent minded skipper remember to install a drain plug? Try
leaving a drain plug (you should have at least one spare) with the trailer's winch handle or
with the ignition key --anywhere it is sure to be seen before launching the boat.
Cooling System Leaks - A 300-hp engine pumps approximately 30 gallons of water through the cooling
system every minute. Depending on which fitting lets go, you could find yourself with the water pouring
into the bilge at the same time the engine overheats, which means you're liable to be greeted by clouds
of hot steam when you open the engine hatch.
Which fittings are most vulnerable? Any fitting that is loose or corroded can let go. In one
case a cooling water pump hadn't been adequately tightened. On other boats, hoses
slipped off, a raw water heat exchanger burst (end cap), and a plastic muffler split open
when the engine backfired.
Prevention: All of the fittings in the cooling system should be inspected periodically for
loose connections and brittle or split hoses. Typically, a break in the cooling system will
cause the engine to overheat before much water has been pumped overboard. The hatch
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Page 5 of 8
is opened, the problem is discovered, and the boat can usually be saved. The exception
is a break in the exhaust or muffler. Backfiring can blow a hole in a plastic muffler,
corrosion can eat a hole in a metal muffler, exhaust hoses can split and the engine will
continue to pump water--a lot of water--aboard.
z
Striking an object - Submerged or partially submerged boards, logs, etc., are typically swept into rivers
and bays after large rain storms and have been responsible for damaging and even sinking many boats.
Prevention: Slow down whenever you see floating debris. For every log visible on top of
the water, there is likely to be two that are bobbing just below the surface. If you do strike
something, indicated by an ominous "klunk" somewhere on the hull, open the engine
hatch immediately and make sure the boat isn't taking on water.
SPRING FITTING OUT CHECK LISTS

A complete safety inspection of the engine, hull, and other systems should take, at most, only an hour or two.
And attention to detail this spring can make the upcoming boating season a lot safer and more enjoyable.
OUT OF THE WATER

Inboard boats
z
Replace deteriorated zincs. They disintegrate, giving you a good indication of what would
happen to underwater machinery if zincs were not present. Zincs that disappear after one
season indicate a serious problem with the boat's bonding and/or electrical system.
Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting, and distortion that can cause excessive vibration and can
loosen everything on the boat. Worn or loose props also cut down your top end speed and
fuel economy.
Inspect the hull for blisters, distortion, and stress cracks. While small blisters may be dried,
sanded and filled, larger blisters may require professional attention. Distortion and stress
cracks should also be addressed by a professional repairman.
Inspect and lubricate seacocks. Hoses and hose clamps (two at each fitting below or near
the waterline) should be inspected and replaced as necessary. This is also the best time to
replace gate valves, if any, with seacocks. Gate valves are prone to failure and are not as
reliable as seacocks. You also can't glance at a gate valve to see that it is closed.
Make sure engine intake sea strainer(s) are free of corrosion and is properly secured.
Strainers that were not drained properly in the fall could have been bent by ice over the
winter.
Inspect the rudder and rudder post to make sure they aren't bent or damaged. Any
looseness must be corrected.
Outdrives and Outboards

z
z
z
Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried, and/or deteriorated spots. Look
especially in the folds! A bellows that is suspect should be replaced.
Replace deteriorated outdrive zincs.
Check power steering and power trim oil levels. Follow Manufacturer's maintenance
schedule or use factory-authorized mechanic.
WHO NEEDS TO WINTERIZE?

Of all 50 states, which would you guess had
the most freeze-related claims? New York?
Maine? Michigan? Guess again.
An examination of the BoatU.S. Marine
Insurance claim files found that balmy
California had more winterizing claims than
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Page 6 of 8
any other state, including any of the deep
freeze states.
While winters may be much colder in the deep-freeze states, the bitter temperatures are a fact of life and
preparations for winter are taken very seriously.
But in the more temperate states, like California, Florida, Texas, Louisiana, Alabama, and Georgia, winter tends
to be relatively comfortable in most areas with only an occasional cold spell. And if the forecasts arent taken
seriously, they can do a lot of damage.
STORAGE ASHORE
In some parts of the country, where winter means several months of bitterly cold weather, storing boats ashore
is the norm. In warmer climates, however, ice and snow may occur infrequently, and the choice between
storage ashore and storage in the water is open to discussion.
Storage in the water means you might get a jump on the boating season next spring. On the other hand, boats
stored ashore (on high ground) wont sink. If you have a choice, storage ashore is a safer bet.
Storage ashore may also be less expensive over the life of a boat,
since a hull surrounded by air for several months each winter is less
likely to develop blisters than a hull that remains in the water. These
blisters, the fiberglass equivalent of rot, occur on many boats when
water soaks into the laminate below the waterline.
One note of caution: The vast majority of the problems in temperate
states involved boats that were being stored ashore. Since water
retains heat longer than air, boats surrounded by air are more
vulnerable to a sudden freeze than boats surrounded by water.
Even a brief cold spell that lasts only a night or two can do considerable damage. In temperate states, boat
owners must winterize engines and freshwater systems, especially when boats are stored ashore. In deep
freeze states, boats stored ashore must be winterized earlier than boats stored in the water.
STORAGE IN WATER
If the boat must be left in the water, the thru-hulls have to
be protected by closing all seacocks and gate valves.
Leaving a thru-hull unprotected over the winter is like
going on an extended vacation and leaving your homes
front door open.
Failure to close thru-hulls is a major cause of loss in the
BoatU.S. insurance program. In a recent study of 40
winter-related claims, seacocks or gate valves left open
caused or contributed to the sinking of seven of the boats
in the sample group.
If the boat must be left in the water, the thru-hulls have to
be protected by closing all seacocks and gate valves.
This boat in Maryland sank when it's plastic thru-hull was shoved underwater by the weight of the snow. the
intake was broken by ice (the surveyor who inspected the damage suspected that it was already cracked) and
water flowed into the boat.
It should be noted that raising and refurbishing a boat that sinks, even at a dock, is a daunting job that can keep
the boat in the repair yard for many weeks over the spring and summer. Whenever a boat is stored in the water
over the winter, all thru-hulls, with the exception of the ones for cockpit drains, must be closed or it could be on
the bottom next spring.
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And all thru-hulls, especially the ones for the cockpit drains, must be double-clamped with stainless steel hose
clamps at each end. This is critical. When water freezes it expands and will lift a poorly secured hose off of a
fitting. The hose itself is also important. Lightweight hose and PVC tubing can rupture or crack. Use only a
heavily reinforced hose, especially at cockpit drains.
If your boat has thru-hulls below the waterline that cant be
closed, either because they are mechanically frozen open
or have broken (typical with gate valves, which is why they
are not recommended), it should be stored ashore for the
winter.
Seacocks are closed by moving the handle down so that
the handle is parallel to the hull. Gate valves are closed by
turning the wheel clockwise.
After the seacock or gate valve has been closed, remove
the hose so that it drains and then use an absorbent cloth
or turkey baster to eliminate any residual water, which can
freeze and crack the nipple.
(Taking off the hose also assures you that the valve has closed properly.) Reinstall the hose immediately and
secure the two clamps.
It should be noted that thru-hulls above the waterline are not required to have seacocks and most dont. That
doesnt mean that these thru-hulls arent vulnerable.
Ordinary plastic thru-hulls deteriorate in sunlight and have been broken when they were shoved underwater by
the weight of snow and ice in the cockpit, which then sinks the boat. Plastic thru-hulls near the waterline are
especially vulnerable and should be replaced with bronze or Marelon (the latter is the only type of plastic
approved for marine use by U.L.).
ENGINES
Engines dont like to be idle, even for three or four months over the winter. BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim
files contain many stories of engines that froze and failed after skippers failed to winterize their engine properly.
Generally, engine blocks that freeze and crack are not covered by a boats insurance policy.
But even if the engine makes it through the winter, a half-hearted winterizing effort will come back to haunt you
as the engine gets older and wears out prematurely. Unless it is winterized properly, moisture, acids and
corrosion will continue unabated. Winterizing the engine is one job that is truly critical; follow the steps below
and consult your manual for specifics.
DOWN BELOW
Most marinas are like floating ghost towns over the winter, with little to deter prowlers. Electronics and other
valuables that can be dismounted should be taken home for safekeeping. If you have an EPIRB, make sure it
wont be activated accidentally.
Besides electronics, all flammables--spare cooking fuels, charcoal, paints, thinners, and varnish - should be
stored ashore, preferably in a tool shed away from the house. All are fire hazards. Portable propane canisters
should never be stored below on a boat, even during the season, as the canisters can rust and leak. Leave at
least one fully charged fire extinguisher in clear sight.
Take home all food stuffs, including canned and bottled goods. Bunk cushions should be propped up, or better
yet, taken home. Open various locker doors, hatches, ice box lids, etc., to circulate air and inhibit mildew. Metal
zippers on cushions will benefit from a few squirts of a light lubricating oil.
ON DECK
If your boat could talk, it would ask - perhaps plead - for a winter storage cover. Winter covers, typically canvas
or synthetic, are a terrific benefit to your boats gelcoat and general well-being. Canvas covers tend to last
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longer but are also more expensive than their synthetic counterparts.
With any cover, a frame, either wood or aluminum, should
be used to circulate air and prevent pooling on the cover.
Merely draping an old tarp over a cabin may do more harm
than good.
Shrink wrapping, a technique borrowed from grocery and
department store packagers, is being used by some
boatyards to keep boats dry over the winter. With shrink
wrapping, heat is applied to a thin plastic so fits snugly
over a plastic frame. At the end of the season the entire
cover, including the frame, is disposed of.
In addition to ensuring cockpit drains are clear, having a
boat cover can keep the cockpit from filling with ice and
snow and dragging down the boat.
While shrink wrapping is very effective at keeping moisture out, it will also trap moisture inside and create
horrendous mildew problems if vents arent used along the entire length of the cover. Another problem: Cabins
and decks painted with two-part polyurethane paints may peel or bubble. Vents should be used along the entire
length of the cover. Inserting a series of foam pads between the hull and cover also allows condensation to
escape.
Finally, some skippers mistakenly believe that biminis, which shield the crew from glaring sun will also protect
the boat from freezing rain and snow. Quite the contrary; expensive biminis tend to get ripped apart or aged
prematurely while doing absolutely nothing to protect the boat. Biminis should be stowed below, or better yet,
taken home and cleaned over the winter.
3/9/2004
Boat Transport and Trailering
Page 1 of 7
ROLL YOUR BOAT - ALL ABOUT TRAILERING

Mention a skipper's boat, and he or she is liable to talk about its graceful sheer, its quickness, the way it
handles, or the clever use of space below.
Mention a trailer, and the first thing that comes to mind is
convenience. While the marina-based boat is restricted by time,
distance, and the weather, a trailered boat can be transported
just about anywherelakes, oceans, bays, or inlets--in the
span of a weekend, Hurricane coming? Put the boat on its
trailer and head inland. Too cold? Head south.
But convenience is only part of a trailers appeal. When you
consider the money saved on slip fees, bottom paint, and
blister repairs, its easy to understand why trailer boating is so popular.
Boating on a highway, like boating on the water, requires some attentiveness and know-how. Thats what this
brochure is all about. Boats go aground in the water. Boats can also go aground on a highway. Negotiating
stoplights, potholes, slick spots, and manic vacation traffic while towing a cumbersome trailer and boat takes
practice.
Trailers, like boats and automobiles, require TLC to keep them rolling. But no amount of maintenance will help
a trailer that is too small, or otherwise inadequate, for the boat it will be towing.
The first step, then, is to choose a trailer that is most likely to get you and your boat where you want to go,
despite potholes and vacation traffic.
Part I: Selecting a Trailer

With a modern boat, the choice of a trailer is often left to the dealer, which means bunkers or rollers will be
positioned properly to provide maximum support. It is a no muss, no fuss deal for the buyer. He or she has to
rely on the trailer dealer, however, and dealers have been known to unload inventory that may not be entirely
suited to your needs. In this case, it helps to know what your needs will be and what options are available to
meet those needs.
Trailer Size
After spending a small fortune to buy the boat of your dreams, it may be tempting to skimp a little on the trailer.
Dont. A trailer that is too small is more than just an inconvenience, its dangerous. Federal law requires that a
trailer display its GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating), which is the total weight the trailer is rated to carry,
including the boat, engine, gasoline (six pounds per gallon), water (eight pounds per gallon) and gear.
Some experts suggest that as a margin of safety the total weight of the boat and gear be no more than 85% of
the trailers GVWR. Dont confuse the GVWR with the GAWR, which is the load carrying capacity of an axle - its
Gross Axle Weight Rating. On single axle trailers, the GVWR and the GAWR are the same. For tandem-axle
trailers, the GVWR is equal to twice the GAWR.
Single vs. Tandem-Axle
While they cost more and require more upkeep, boat owners who have traded-up to tandem axle trailers almost
always report that they are pleased with the results, especially with larger boats. For one thing, tandem trailers
handle better, with better tracking and less tendency to fishtail. The extra wheels also mean a much smoother
ride and safer handling in the event of a blowout. The size of the tireslarger is betteralso contributes to the
smoothness of the ride. It is usually easier to find replacements for larger tires, although you shouldnt make the
mistake of substituting an automobile tire for a trailer tire. Trailer tires have thicker sidewalls.
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Submersible or Float-on Trailers vs. Roll-Off Trailers

Submersible trailers, which allow the boat to float free when the trailer is submerged, have the advantage of
being easier to use, at least for beginners. The disadvantage is that submersible trailers require more upkeep
and a steeper ramp for launching. Some trailers tilt to create a steeper launch angle but are usually unwieldy for
all but the smallest boats.
Roll-off trailers may be easier to maintain, but they are also more expensive about 20% more. And for the
inexperienced trailer owner, roll-off trailers can be more difficult to use. A skipper in Michigan who said he had
used a submersible trailer several times still managed to do several hundred dollars worth of damage to his
new boat when it rolled too quickly off his new trailer and bashed onto the concrete ramp in shallow water. As a
general rule, rollers make launching and retrieving easier, while pads provide better support for the boat. Many
trailers now use a combination of pads (at chines) and rollers (at keels) to optimum advantage.
Paint vs. Galvanized
Many manufacturers offer a choice of a galvanized steel or painted steel trailers. The painted trailers are fine for
freshwater but are vulnerable to corrosion in saltwater. Galvanized trailers cost slightly more, but require less
maintenance, especially if they will be dunked in saltwater.
Painted trailers are sometimes painted to match the boat, which is nice. With galvanized trailers, one expert
suggests painting it with bright colors, especially colors that clash, so that it will be easy to identify. Not a bad
idea. The BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim files have shown that a boat on a trailer is far more likely to be
stolen. If you were a crook, which trailer would you steal: one that looks like every other trailer on the road or
one that looks like a painted circus wagon?
Trailer Brakes
In many states, trailers with a GVWR of 1,500 pounds or more are required to have brakes on all wheels. Most
automobile manufacturers suggest trailer brakes be used with even lighter weights.
There are two basic types of brakes on trailers: surge brakes and electrically-activated brakes. Most trailers
have surge brakes, which are activated after the automobiles brakes have slowed the trailer. Surge brakes are
frequently wrecked by dunking, although newer models have flushing devices that offer some protection.
Electric brakes, which are connected to the automobiles brakes, are also vulnerable to dunking.
Trailer Hitches
Trailer hitches are rated in four classes according to the weight (GVWR) they will be pulling: Class I has a
maximum capacity rating of 2,000 pounds; Class II has a maximum rating of 3,500 pounds; Class III has a
maximum capacity rating of 5,000 pounds; and Class IV has a maximum rating of 10,000 pounds. The weight
of your boat, trailer, and gear should never exceed this capacity.
Another Consideration: The Tow Vehicle
A car's engine, transmission, cooling system, tires, and rear springs are all stressed by the additional weight of
a boat and trailer. Considering that the average price of a new car is about $20,000, it behooves the trailer boat
owner to be mindful of the cars towing capacity and to select a car with a towing capacity that is at least several
hundred pounds greater than the weight you intend to pull.
Always follow the manufacturers recommendations when an automobile or truck is used for towing a boat.
Dont assume a big car can be used to haul a big boat. A Cadillac Seville with a hefty 4.6 liter V-8, for example,
has a rated towing capacity of only 1,000 pounds, which is the same towing capacity as a tiny Ford Escort.
And while horsepower is certainly important, more horsepower does not always produce more torque. The
latter is a measure of how much weight an engine can move. An automatic transmission is more desirable for
towing than a manual transmission, since the added weight is tough on a clutch.
Auto manufacturers publish a recommended towing weight, which, depending on the type of construction, is
usually about half the weight of the car. Although the car will be able to haul more weight, exceeding the
recommended towing weight will make the trailer difficult to control and cause the car to get old before its time.
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Since youll have passengers, luggage, etc., in addition to the boat, manufacturers now use a gross combined
weight rating (GCWR), which is the total weight of the car, trailer, boat, passengers, and gear that a car can
safely accommodate.
Many automobile manufacturers offer optional beefed-up towing packages. The additional cost on a new car is
nominal, and is certainly worth the money if you plan on towing a boat. If you're not going to buy a new car
anytime soon, and your present car is too feeble to tow the family boat and trailer, you may be able to bring it
up to snuff by beefing up the spring coils with air bags, adding a larger radiator and water pump, etc. This will
be considerably more expensive than ordering the same components on a new car, but it can be done by most
car dealers.
Part II: Trailer Maintenance

Three things dictate how often a trailer needs to be inspected: where it is used; how often it is used; and how
hard it is used. A fourth consideration, just to complicate the discussion, might be the quality of the trailer itself.
As a bare-bones minimum, any trailer should be thoroughly inspected at the start of each boating season.
Even if the trailer isnt used regularly, an annual inspection and any subsequent maintenance will protect its
value. If a trailer is going to be used frequently, will be dunked in saltwater, and will spend many hours traveling
over bumpy roads, youll want to inspect key components much more often. Here are a few tips and
suggestions:
The Frame and Axle
Submersible trailers have the advantage of being easier to use, at least for beginners, but they have the
disadvantage of requiring more upkeep, especially when the trailer is used in saltwater. Any light rust on the
trailers frame should be sanded and painted. The sooner the better. If a structural component appears to be
badly rusted, the trailer shouldnt be used until it is examined by an expert or the component is replaced. To
prevent rust, even a trailer with a galvanized frame should be rinsed thoroughly when the trailer has been
dunked in saltwater.
Trailers tend to get bounced around a lot, and any loose nuts on the frame must be tightened. If you arent
familiar with your trailer, structural components should be inspected frequently until youre confident that none
are prone to loosening. Even the tightest trailer should be examined routinely on long trips.
Trailer Brakes
Surge brakes must be adjusted periodically. Youll have to jack the wheel off of the ground and then use a tire
tool to first tighten the adjustment cog all of the way until the wheel wont turn and then back it off a few turns
until the wheel again turns freely. If you do the job yourself, follow manufacturers recommendations.
Trailer Tires
A blown tire can be more than just an inconvenience. According to the BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim files,
neglecting tires is one of the most frequent causes of trailer failure--broken axles and even spilled boats.
Treads should be examined whenever the trailer will be used, but keep in mind that trailer tires sometimes need
replacing long before the treads wear out. Spider-web cracks on the sidewall are an indication that the tire is
rotten and can no longer be relied on to carry heavy loads. While you're examining the sidewalls, take a look at
the wheel lugs to make sure they're tight.
Sidewalls contain another useful bit of information: the maximum load limits for the tires. If there are two tires
rated for 500 pounds each, then the total weight on the trailer--the boat and all gear--should be no more than
1,000 pounds.
Trailer tires frequently suffer from under inflation and should be checked whenever the trailer is used.
Recommended inflation pressures are stamped on the sidewalls. Monitoring inflation pressure (when tires are
cool) is especially important on trailer tires, which are typically smaller and work harder than automobile tires.
An under-inflated tire builds up heat quickly, which can cause the layers inside --called plies--to delaminate.
Repair or replace a tire with a slow leak. Never mix tires--bias plies and radials. Use tires built specifically for
use on trailers, which have thicker sidewalls.
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Trailer tires deteriorate in sunlight and can have their useful life extended by taking them off the trailer and
storing them in the garage (put blocks under the trailer frame) whenever the trailer will be idle for extended
periods. Removing the tires also discourages theft. If removing the tires isnt possible, wrap them in plastic trash
bags to protect the sidewalls from sunlight.
Spare Tires, Hassles, and Highway Theft
Considering what is at stake, it is surprising how many skippers do not carry a spare tire for their trailers. Trying
to find someone who can fix (or replace) a blown trailer tire can be a hassle, to say the least, but there is also a
considerable risk that while youre searching for a gas station someone will steal the boat. A boater in
Connecticut, to use one example, left his trailer on the side of a busy highway for less than a half-hour while he
went to get the tire repaired. When he got back, the boat and trailer were gone. Another boater, this one in
Texas, left his boat and trailer to get a tire repaired and returned sometime later to find that his outboard was
missing. After leaving briefly to report the theft to police, he returned to find that the boat and trailer (and his
luggage) had disappeared.
Boats on trailers are an easy target for thieves, especially when theyre sitting alone on the side of a busy
highway. Learn from the mistakes of others: carry a spare tire for your trailer! A U-bolt can be used to attach the
spare directly to the trailer frame. Note: A typical car jack will not work on a trailer, so you'll need to get a
scissors jack that is large enough to handle the load.
Hubs and Bearings
If your hubs dont have bearing protectors, it is best to keep them out of the water. If you must dunk the hubs,
allow time for them to cool or cold water will be drawn inside, displacing the grease and causing the bearings to
corrode and fail. Bearings that have been accidentally submerged in saltwater should be cleaned with kerosene
and then butyl alcohol before being repacked with grease. Use something like a tongue depressor to distribute
the grease evenly to both front and rear bearings (dont over-pack). With most hubs, seals must be replaced
whenever theyre removed for packing.
Most new trailers, fortunately, have bearing protectors, which are metal caps with springs that hold grease
under pressure. These protectors eliminate water penetration into the hub, not to mention a lot of grubby work.
If your trailer doesnt have protectors, they can be and should be added to the hub. Theyre easy to install and
are relatively inexpensive.
With protectors, a squirt or two of grease at a fitting is all that is required to protect bearings. Press the protector
at the edge; if it moves it doesnt need grease. If it is rigid, youll need to add grease (use only a grease
recommended for trailer bearings). Even with protectors, it is a good idea to carry extra bearings on a long trip.
Lights and Electrical
Not all trailer lights are waterproof. Some trailer lights arent meant to be immersed in water and should be
removed before launching. Even if you have sealed trailer lights, don't let the connector plug to the car get
dunked, especially when it's still connected. Only stranded copper wire, which is flexible and break resistant,
should be used on a trailer. Exposed wire should be secured every 18" to prevent chafing. The entire system
should be inspected twice a year for bare or chafed wires and all of the contacts given a protective dab of
grease. Finally, it's a good idea to always carry spare bulbs and fuses.
Rollers
Rollers that are damaged should be replaced. The yellow or clear "poly" rollers, incidentally, last considerably
longer than their rubber counterparts, which deteriorate in sunlight.
Winch
In general, your winch should be rated to pull at least half the combined weight of your boat, motor and gear.
Check your winch regularly for loose mounting bolts and any loose internal parts. If you use an electric winch,
check that the power cord is in good shape and there is no corrosion on the wire--you might over heat the
winch if the electricity supply isn't 100%. Make sure your winch line doesn't rub up against anything while
loading/unloading the boat. Check the line frequently for wear or fraying. Even a slight amount of wear can
significantly reduce the weight carrying ability of the strap.
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Note: Winches are designed for one thing: loading and unloading your boat. They are NOT designed to hold
your boat on the trailer when you are going down the road. Make sure you use other methods of securing your
boat to the trailer!
Part III: Towing a Trailer

Weight Distribution
Driving hazards that are normally only an annoyance to an automobile - potholes, uneven pavement, sharp
curves, etc.can be scary when youre towing a trailer, especially if the weight is not distributed correctly. Five
to 10 percent of the total weight of the boat, motor, trailer, and gear should be on the trailer ball when the
coupler is parallel to the ground.
Too much weight on the ball and the car will be difficult to steer (and good luck retrieving your boat at a steep
launch ramp, especially if your car has front-wheel drive). You can also wreck the cars suspension system. Too
little weight on the ball and the trailer is prone to fishtailing - excessive swaying from side to side. (Fishtailing
can also occur when tires are too soft or the trailer and the boat are too heavy for the car.)
Techniques for redistributing weight at the coupler include shifting gear inside the boat, emptying water and fuel
tanks, and adjusting the boats position on the trailer. If all else fails, you can remedy the problem by moving the
trailer's axle - a much larger job that usually requires a pro.
Positioning the Boat
Many boats spend the better part of their lives atop a trailer. To reduce
the chances of sagging or oil-canning (flexing) that could permanently
disfigure or even weaken the boats hull, the boat should always be level
and supported evenly, with rollers or padded bunks concentrated in
critical areas such as the engine and chine. On boats with outboard or
I/Os, transoms must be well supported. Poly rollers, incidentally, last
considerably longer than their rubber counterparts, which deteriorate in
sunlight.
Securing the Boat
Keep in mind that when youre barreling down the highway at speeds of 65 mph or more, the boat will be
buffeted by near hurricane force winds.
Anything loose on the deck or in the cockpit, including things like Bimini tops, will probably be blown away.
Either stow them below or make sure they are secured. Better yet, warp the boat in a snug-fitting cover, which
protects the upholstery from sunlight and road grit, as well as reduces fuel consumption.
A heavy strap should always be used to anchor the boat's stern to the trailer. If a strap isn't used, the boat will
bounce against (or off) the trailer. Don't rely solely on the winch cable to tie down the bow. Use a separate line
from the bow eye down to the trailer. When you're traveling, check the straps and the bow eye itself whenever
you stop.
Safety Chains
Always use a safety chain, criss-crossed between the car and the trailer coupling. Should the hitch fail, heaven
forbid, the chain will keep the trailer from flying off the road. Crossing the chain prevents the trailer coupler from
separating completely from the car. Leave enough slack in the chain to allow for proper turning, but not so
much that it drags. Using a shackle/pin is far more secure than relying on the standard S-hooks, which have
been known to jiggle loose.
Getting There (In One Piece)
The first thing you should remember when towing a trailer is that you are
towing a trailer. That may sound obvious, but when the car is humming
merrily along it can be easy to forget the trailer is back there. Slow down!
Reducing speed gives you more time to react and reduces the strain on
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the car and trailer. Swing wider at corners so your trailer doesnt hit the
curb, and remember to allow extra space when you pass other cars.
The additional weight of a trailer dramatically affects braking, so leave considerably more distance than you
normally would between your car and the car in front of you.
Rely on lower gears rather than brakes to reduce speed when driving downhill. Some states have separate
speed limits for cars pulling trailers, and you should also be alert to signs restricting trailers.
On trips, make it a habit to check the wheel hubs every time you stop for gas. If one hub feels hotter than the
other, or if both feel abnormally hot, the bearings should be inspected before you continue the trip. Straps
holding the boat, lug nuts on the tires, and structural nuts and bolts on the trailer frame should also be
examined to make sure theyre tight. If it is raining, check the boats cover for pooling water, which could affect
weight distribution and make the car more difficult to handle.
Launching the Boat
Let's suppose youve managed to negotiate the gauntlet of potholes,
slick spots and traffic snarls without mishap. The trailer held together.
You have arrived at the launch ramp.
If the ramp is crowded, and it usually is on weekends, dont despair; use
the extra time to prepare your boat and trailer before it is you turn to
launch. Make sure the lower unit is raised to avoid scraping; install the
drain plug; release the securing straps; disconnect the trailer's lights;
and rig a line so the boat doesnt drift away after it is launched.
If you are stepping a mast, make sure there are no overhead power lines
between you and the ramp. If you dont have bearing protectors, make sure hubs are cool.
Next, you'll have to back the trailer onto the launch ramp. To a novice, backing a trailer can be like standing on
your head and reading a book upside down in a mirror. It takes practice. Learning can be rough on the blood
pressure - yours and the other people at the ramp waiting patiently (or impatiently) to launch their boats.
To avoid disagreeable encounters with your fellow boaters, practice backing the trailer in the quiet safety of
your driveway or, better yet, an empty parking lot. Tip: push the bottom of the car's steering wheel in the
direction you want the trailer to go.
Keep a tire stop handy, leave the car's engine running in case you need power quickly, and dont forget your
parking brake! That may seem elementary, but when a particular boater in Tennessee got careless, his truck
and trailer rolled down the ramp and didnt stop until they were in 60' of water. It must have been a long walk
home.
Retrieving the Boat
Now that you've enjoyed your time on the water, it's time to go home. When you get to the ramp, good
manners are very important! If there are other boaters launching or leaving, you must wait your turn. When
your turn comes, you must be ready to move quickly. Start by getting all of your gear ready to take off the boat,
and get your boat ready to go on the trailer. If you have the option, let someone off the boat to get the trailer to
the water while you or the other people aboard take the gear off.
Before you back down the trailer, make sure the trailer lights aren't connected to the tow vehicle. If the trailer
has a tilting trailer bed, put it in the up position. Slowly back the trailer into the water, and use the boat's bow
and stern lines to line the boat up with the trailer.
Attach the winch cable to the boat, and start cranking! Be careful that no one is in the direct line of the winch
cable--if it breaks you can be seriously injured from the whiplash. After you have the boat all the way on the
trailer, attach the safety chains and pull the boat the trailer forward--make sure your engine is raised first!
Once you've cleared the ramp area, make sure all lose gear is stowed, attach the tie-down straps, and
reconnect the trailer lights to the tow vehicle, and hit the road.
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NOTES - While many people drive the boat onto the trailer, it isn't advised. Using the engine to assist trailering
erodes the ramp bed, can lead to debris being sucked into the engine, and can cause an accident!
Make sure you drain all water from the boat - the bilge, the live well, the trailer lights, etc. Trailer boats are a
leading cause of the spread of invasive species. Make sure your boat is cleaned thoroughly before you launch
your boat again, particularly if you go to a different body of water. The best thing to do would be to clean your
boat at the ramp. If you can't, try to make sure that when you do wash, the water doesn't go into a drain that
feeds into a sewer that feeds into a different body of water.
Protecting Trailers from Thieves: A Few Suggestions
Wayne thought he was being prudent bringing his boat home for the winter. His marina wasn't in an especially
good neighborhood and, besides, nobody would watch after his boat the way that he would. You can guess the
rest. Despite Wayne's caution, he returned from work late one afternoon to an empty driveway. His boat had
been stolen.
It's no wonder that trailer boat thefts appear so frequently in the BoatU.S. claim files. Imagine leaving thousands
of dollars stored in large crates marked MONEY on a trailer in your driveway. An exaggeration? Maybe. But to a
thief, especially a professional, a boat on a trailer is not much different than a stack of dollar bills. Simply
parking a boat in a driveway in front of your house offers little or no security. But there are a few simple tricks,
shown below, that will make a boat on a trailer a much less attractive target for thieves.
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Remove the tires. This not only makes it much harder to pull the trailer, storing the tires
indoors (out of the sunlight) prolongs their life and reduces the chances of a flat tire. As an
added precaution against theft, be sure to remove the hub nuts and store them with the
tires.
The more you take off of your boat, the less attractive it will be to a thief. Take all
valuable equipment and documents off of the boat for the winter. Small motors, seats, and
spray dodgers are all candidates for indoor storage.
If practical, chain the trailer to a tree.
If possible, store the boat in the backyard or in the garage so that it can't be seen by
passers-by. If the boat has to be stored in the driveway, don't leave the trailer hitch facing
the street. Even if the hitch is locked or has been removed, professional thieves carry
coupler devices that can be quickly attached to the trailer.
Remove the trailer's license plate and, if possible, the tail lights.
Invest in a dog, preferably one with a nasty disposition to deter strangers.
Locks are available for props and some model out drives. Smaller outboards should be
taken off and stored in the garage.
Click on the button to receive your free guide to trailering.
3/9/2004
Fueling Your Boat
Page 1 of 2
Proper fueling procedures are very important in preventing onboard fires. Gasoline vapors are heavier
than air and can spread rapidly into enclosed spaces. You should check the bilges and all closed compartments
for gasoline vapors. The sniff test is the most effective method for detecting fuel leaks.
The proper way to fuel your boat is as follows:
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Secure boat to the dock.

Switch off engine(s).
Extinguish all open flames.
Do not use electrical switches.
No smoking.
Ports, hatches, and doors closed.
Make certain all passengers are ashore.
Determine quantity of fuel required and make sure it is the proper type of fuel.
Hold hose nozzle firmly against fill pipe opening.
Do not overfill.
Wipe up all spillage.
Open ports, hatches, and doors to ventilate.
Turn blower on for four minutes minimum.
Do the sniff test.
Start engine(s).
Re-board Passengers.
Untie from dock and cast off.
Proper fueling techniques also keep our water clean and safe, and help marine life thrive in a healthier
environment.
For portable tanks do the following:
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Tanks six gallons and smaller should be removed from the boat.
Add appropriate amount of oil for 2-cycle outboards to fuel tank.
Make sure hose nozzle is in contact with rim of tank.
After filling, secure tank to the boat so it will not slide around while underway.
FUEL CONSERVATION TIPS

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Keep engine well tuned.

Use the correct propeller and check for damage.
Be sure engine is adequate for boat.
Use proper oil mix in motor.
Keep hull clean to reduce friction.
Drain all water before leaving dock.
Distribute weight evenly and don't overload.
Shut off engine when at dock or at rest.
Make fewer turns so as to not increase motor load.
Plane smoothly and quickly at take off then throttle back to cruising speed.
FUELS AND THEIR FUMES

For many boaters, an enjoyable time on the water includes having all of the creature comforts that they are
used to having at home such as hot water, heating and cooling, and a stove or grill. While having these items
may make for a more enjoyable cruise, they must be handled much more carefully on a boat, and may operate
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Fueling Your Boat
Page 2 of 2
very differently from their shore side counterparts.

Hot water heaters, stoves, grills, air conditioners and heating systems all need fuel to operate. Types of fuel
include electricity, alcohol, Compressed Natural Gas (CNG), Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG-propane or butane),
charcoal, kerosene, and diesel. Each fuel has specific characteristics, both pro and con, that you need to know
before you use it for a particular piece of equipment.
Pros and Cons:
CNG-Compressed Natural Gas is natural gas liquefied under high pressure. (approx. 2250psi)
CNG fumes can combine with oxygen to form a powerful explosive.
Though CNG fumes are lighter than air and will generally dissipate through open ports and
hatches, care must be used with CNG appliances. Manufacturers include additives in CNG to
make it smell strongly. Nothing beats a nose to sniff out gas fumes!
LPG - Liquefied petroleum gas is really two different gases that are generally classed together
and are interchangeable. Propane and butane are both used in LPG appliances and have some
advantages over CNG. LPG has a much higher heat output (21,000 BTUs/lb. for LPG vs. 9,000
BTUs/lb. for CNG) LPG also operates at lower pressures.
One thing to note, if you boat in cold weather, propane is preferable to butane, as butane has
difficulty vaporizing in extremely cold weather and might not allow an appliance to work properly.
One drawback to LPG is that fumes are heavier than air, and can build up to dangerous levels in
bilge compartments. Even a small spark can signal the end of your boat!
Kerosene is also used on boats for heating, lighting, and to a lesser extent, cooking. Kerosene
must be totally clean for it to work properly, and the whiter the kerosene the better. If you have
yellow kerosene DO NOT use it in your burners, as it may clog your burner with carbon deposits.
Alcohol is used largely for stoves and is a relatively safe fuel. Denatured ethyl alcohol does not
burn very hot- it may take quite some time to boil water on an alcohol stove. One of the best
aspects of alcohol is that a flame can be put out with water. Like kerosene, alcohol must be clean
for an appliance to work properly.
Electricity is probably the safest "fuel" that you can use on a boat. There are no explosive
fumes, no pressurized fuel system that can develop dangerous leaks.
Electricity's main drawback is the large amount of current most appliances need to operate
properly. Large current demands that many appliances need require boats to be hooked up to
shore power or to have a generator.
All fuels must be properly stored on a boat. Safety devices such as fume
sniffers should be considered for boats equipped with any gas system.
Remember, gasoline should NEVER be used to fuel any on board appliance other
than a generator or main engine. Gasoline is extremely volatile and its fumes are
deadly.
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ENVIRONMENTAL LAWS
Garbage, Garbage in the water is not only ugly, but it can also create
entanglement, ingestion, and aesthetic problems for animals and
boaters. Plastics in particular last for decades in the environment.
In the Gulf of Mexico, birds have been seen feeding cigarette butts to
their young. In Marina Del Rey, cool water intakes for inboard boats
have sucked up plastic bags, causing engines to overheat. In the Great
Lakes, old rope and monofilament fishing line have wrapped around
propellers, causing other engine problems. The problem is everywhere,
but we all have a role to play in cleaning up our local boating waters.
(This bird has its head stuck in a plastic six-pack container.)
THE LAW
Under federal law, it is illegal to toss ANY garbage from a boat while you are anywhere in lakes, rivers, bays,
sounds, and offshore in the ocean less than 3 miles. Yes, this means you can't throw a banana peel or your
half-eaten sandwich overboard....
Violations may result in civil penalties up to $25,000, a fine of up to $50,000 and/or a prison sentence of up to 5
years! (State anti-littering laws may also apply on your boating waters.) The further offshore you go in the
ocean, the more things you can legally dispose of from your boat. But you must always keep plastic items
onboard for later disposal ashore.
Remember that while on inland and coastal waters where most of us do our boating, no garbage should go
overboard. The only exception to this rule is fish waste, which under federal law, you can still put back into the
water.
Please note that this law only covers garbage, and does not cover sewage (black water) or sink or shower
water (grey water). These will be discussed under the sewage section below.
Garbage disposal regulations for U.S. waterways

Lakes, Rivers, Bays, Sounds,
and 0-3 miles from shore.
ILLEGAL TO Plastic, rags, glass, food, metal, crockery, dunnage,

lining & packaging, materials that float.
DUMP
3-12 Miles
ILLEGAL TO Plastic, rags*, glass,* food*, metal*, crockery*,

dunnage, lining & packaging, materials that float.
DUMP
12-25 Miles
ILLEGAL TO Plastic, dunnage, lining & packing, materials that

float.
DUMP
25 miles or more
ILLEGAL TO
Plastic.
DUMP
Dunnage-- This refers to packing materials normally associated with commercial shipping such as
packing foam or pallets.
Plastics--This includes such things as chip or garbage bags, plastic bottles, fishing line, and cigarette
butts.
* Unless ground smaller than one inch.
Specific Requirements: There are additional requirements based on how long your boat is. If you have a boat
26 or longer, you must have a written garbage placard and an oil discharge placard prominently posted to
remind you and your crew what can be thrown overboard and what cant. The placards must be permanently
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attached, be made of durable material, and must be at least 4X9 inches in size. Great Lakes boaters must
display a garbage placard specifically designed for the Great lakes. Shown below, these stickers are available
from most boating supply stores.
If your boat is 40 or longer, you must also have a written waste management plan, stating how you deal with
the collected waste onboard, who handles it, and where it is disposed. This can be as short as one paragraph.
We recommend that you keep your plan in your onboard ships papers. Click here: cleanwater@boatus.com if
you would like to receive some sample waste management plans.
3/9/2004
Aquatic Nuisance Species
Page 1 of 2
ALIEN SPECIES
Chances are, no matter where you are in the country, youve heard of a local
problem with a non-native plant or animal species that has been introduced into your
local environment. Who hasn't heard of at least one of the following: zebra mussels-like the one pictured on the right, carp, kudzu, snakehead fish, European green crab,
or lampreys.
These alien species can wreak havoc on the natural balance of our waterways.
While zebra mussels may appear to be cleaning up the Great Lakes (the water is
much clearer than in years past) there are monumental negative implications of these mussels being there. And
like many species that are not native, they are easily transported to new areas, and highly adaptable to new
climates
As boaters, we have an important role to play in NOT transporting species from one body of water to another.
Experts predict that many aquatic nuisance species will spread because of actions taken by un-informed
people, and by trailered boats going from one lake to another, or from a lake to a river.
Almost every area of the country has specific nuisance species concerns that can be found on the internet.
Click here: http://www.anstaskforce.gov for the latest information on various alien species.
Minimize the Risk

Here are some basic ideas that every boater needs to know in order to minimize the risk of being the carrier of
ANS to a new waterway:
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If you are moving your boat from one water body to another, you are a potential carrier of plants and
animals to the next waterway. Heads-up!
Both big boats and small boats can be the carrier of ANS.
Many ANS (like zebra mussels) can be transported in water, on equipment, the trailer, or on the boat. In
their juvenile stage, you will not even be able to see them!
If you have visible growth on the side of your boat you should double check that these are not ANS
contact your state Sea Grant or US Fish and Wildlife Agent if you have any doubts. Moving ANS from
one state to another is not only really stupid, but its against the law. Check out www.sgnis.org/wow/ or
http://invasives.fws.gov/
If you are boating in an area where ANS are known to live, you should be especially careful about
cleaning your boat off before taking it to a new waterway.
At any waterbody, if you have a small trailered boat, and have just pulled the boat out of the water but are still
at the ramp, here are some things to check.
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Aquatic Nuisance Species
Page 2 of 2
3/9/2004
Human Waste Disposal
Page 1 of 3
MARINE SANITATION DEVICES (MSDs)

Anyone that spends a day on a boat with a head has the dubious pleasure of using the onboard facilities.
Whether you are on a 16 outboard or a 40 ketch, the "call of nature" is a regular part of our boating
experience. So what's the big deal about using the water as a big bathroom?
The primary environmental concern with your sewage is not the urine (which is basically sterile) , but the feces.
Human feces contains bacteria, pathogens, and nutrients. The idea behind federal regulations concerning
sewage on boats is to keep untreated sewage out of our inland and coastal waters, so we dont have to swim in
it or drink it. Read on for the regulatory details...
Sanitation Regulations
In most inland and coastal waters, boats with installed toilets are required to have a sanitation system on board
in order to control pollution. Standards have been set by the Environmental Protection Agency, and regulations
have been Issued by the Coast Guard, covering the certification and use of Marine Sanitation Devices.
Sanitation systems consist of an installed head (toilet), a waste-treating device (MSD), and/or a holding tank.
As with most Coast Guard Certified equipment, there are different classifications to cover most every marine
application.
Type One MSDs typically discharge treated waste directly overboard.
Type One MSDs are treatment systems that reduce bacteria and discharge no visible floating solids.
(Not legal in some state boating areas as well. Check local laws before installing.
Type One MSD systems, such as a head coupled with a Lectra-San, are legal on
vessels less than 65 feet that boat in an area not declared a Federal No-Discharge
Zone.
Type Two MSD systems are similar to type one systems, but are more powerful,
and do a better job of treating waste. These are typically installed in boats over 65
feet because of the power demands, but can be used on any vessel outside of a nodischarge zone.
Type Three MSD system:
This system uses a head connected directly to a holding
tank. Some systems use "Y-valves" that allow waste flow
to be diverted directly overboard. (outside 3-mile
discharge limit) Holding tanks can be emptied at many
marinas or state run pump-out stations.
Portable Toilet:
A commonly used and cost effective alternative is the
portable toilet. This system is fully self contained. The
upper section of the unit holds water used for flushing the
bowl. Treated water, plus the wastes, are flushed into the bottom each time the unit
is used. The toilet can be used for several days before pumpout is needed. Though
these are not considered to be MSDs as they are not permanently installed, they are
legal to use on all waters.
Sewage System Options

Options for your boat's sewage system, depending on where you boat:
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Page 2 of 3
Inland
Type/Cost
Coastal
Inland Lakes and No Rivers, Bays, Sounds,

Discharge Areas*
Etc.
Ocean
Coastal and offshore areas (3
miles or more)
Good option for boats <65'. Not

dependent on finding onshore
pumpout stations. Treats waste
before discharging overboard.
Installed toilet w/USCG

Certified Type I MSD
Cost: $1200+
Not Legal. Type I + II
MSD's treat the waste
and discharge it
overboard.
Legal Option. Reduces

bacteria, but not nutrients,
in waste before
discharging overboard.
Installed toilet w/USCG

Certified Type II MSD
Cost: $4000+
Good option for larger boats. Not

dependent on onshore pumpout
stations. Treats waste more
effectively than Type I and
discharges is overboard.
Installed toilet with a

USCG Certified Type I
or II MSD and a Type III
holding tank Cost:
$1400-4200
Offers the most flexibility for use anywhere. Requires more space & more equipment.
While in No Discharge Areas or inland, can treat waste and keep in holding tank for
onshore pumpout. In coastal areas, can use pumpout if onshore facilities are available or
discharge treated waste overboard. While offshore, can treat waste and discharge
overboard.
Installed toilet w/Type

III MSD. Cost: $500+
Good option. Keeps waste out of water. Relies on

having adequate onshore pumpout facilities.
Installed toilet w/Type

III MSD and "Y" valve
Cost: $500+
Good option. Keeps waste out of water. Relies on having adequate onshore pumpout
facilities. While offshore, "Y" valve can be open to legally discharge directly overboard (3
miles or more offshore--oceans only). While not offshore, "Y" valve must be closed.
Portable toilet Cost:

$70+
Good option. Keeps waste out of water. Can use

available onshore dump stations or dump in
onshore toilet.
Not practical for offshore without

"Y" valve as a way to divert waste
from holding tank.
Need more capacity to be a

practical option.
*States with lakes capable of interstate navigation may allow the use of Type I or II's.
What It All Means...

This national symbol is used to show boaters where onshore pumpout
services are located. Youll need to know this symbol if you use a portable
toilet or Type III MSD (holding tank) on your boat.
Federal law says that untreated sewage (even if it's been dosed with a deodorant
product) can NOT be discharged in inland or coastal waters. This means the
sewage from a portable toilet or a Type III holding tank can not be discharged unless you are in the ocean more
than 3 miles offshore.
Federal law also states that if you have a holding tank with a "Y" valve allowing direct overboard discharge of
untreated waste, it must be secured in the closed position while operating in all inland and coastal waters.
Using a non-releasable wire tie, padlock, or removing the valve handle is considered adequate securing of the
device. Click here to get more details and an illustration of a Y-Valve. (This goes to a new panel with the Why a
Y Valve? page from CVA template notebook.)
Operating in a federally designated No Discharge Area further restricts what sewage you can discharge
overboard. In these areas, there is no treated sewage discharge allowed from boats. That means if you have a
Type I or II MSD, you are not allowed to discharge it while in those waters. There is a trend towards more local
waters being designated as No Discharge Areas, so if you rely on using your Type I or II MSD, check a cruising
guide before venturing into new waters.
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Page 3 of 3
What about grey water?

Grey water is the water discharging from your sink and shower, while black water is the sewage/water
discharging from a toilet. In the United States, there are no federal requirements for the containment of grey
water. However, in Canada, and in some inland lakes, there may be additional restrictions. Please check your
local cruising guide or with your local state boating agency for more details. Are You In Compliance?
Equipment on
Boat
Legal?
Restrictions and Comments
Installed toilet
without MSD
No
Installed toilet with

macerator
No
USCG regulations require that all installed toilets have an attached

MSD. Macerator does not count.

Type I MSD*
Yes (But not ok in

No Discharge
Areas)
Ok on boats <65'. Discharge is <1000 per 100 milliliters of fecal

coliform bacteria with no visibly identifiable floating solids.

Type II MSD**
Yes (But not ok in

No Discharge
Areas)
Ok on any size boat. found on larger boats because of electricity and

space requirements. Discharge is <200 per 100 milliliters of fecal
coliform bacteria with <150 milligrams of suspended solids per liter.

Type III MSD**
Yes
Keeps waste out of water by using a holding tank. Discharge at

onshore pumpout facility or via "Y" valve while more than 3 miles
offshore in the ocean.
Portable toilet
Legal on any
boat.*
Does not fall under USCG regulations of MSD's.
No installed toilet
Yes
Remember No Discharge Area rules.
Note: Some states have additional restrictions. For example, in Florida, houseboats may only
have a Type III MSD or a permanent sewer line to shore. Check on your state's laws.
** Must be USCG certified
* Not legal in the province of Ontario
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Disposal of Toxic Substances
Page 1 of 2
HAZARDOUS WASTE
Most of us come into contact daily with hazardous substances, whether or not we
recognize it. One of the easiest ways to figure out what products need special handling,
use, and disposal is to read the back label on the product packaging.
If the label includes strong warning statements about personal health, you can suspect
that the product can also have significant environmental implications if improperly
disposed (as well as significant personal health implications if improperly used).
Some boat products
that may be
hazardous are
solvents, varnishes,
cleaners, bottom
paints, as well as gasoline, diesel, oil, and
antifreeze.
Most hazardous materials laws relate to the
proper disposal of large amounts of product
which wont apply to the individual boater
using a quart here or a gallon there.
Local recycling and proper disposal options
vary widely depending on where you live.
One of the most frustrating parts of being a
consumer of hazardous substances is the
fact that the labels often state dispose of according to local and state laws. This doesnt help the average
person much, since we dont know, and cant find, those laws. Given that situation, the best advice we have is
listed below:
HAZMAT TIPS
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Start reading labels!

Before you buy a new product, read the label and figure out if you really need to use that
strong a product.
Buy only the amount youll need or share with a friend.
Follow directions for use and safely store where the product container cant capsize!
Try alternative products or methods of cleaning.
Schedule major maintenance work on land away from the waters edge (maybe during
winter storage?)
Find your local Household Hazardous Waste collection days where you can safely
dispose of this stuff. Check with your local public works department or check out
www.earth911.org to find possibilities in your town.
Put some fuel booster product in outboard tanks in the fall to avoid having stale fuel in the
spring.
This may be even more important to remember if you are running one of the
newer engines, which is not burning as much fuel.
Wherever possible, use less toxic propylene glycol antifreeze instead of traditional ethylene
glycol.
When launching your boat in the spring, see if you can capture the chemical
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Disposal of Toxic Substances
Page 2 of 2
instead of letting it spew into the marinas waters. Your marina may be able
to reuse or recycle it for you.
FUEL/OIL DISCHARGE
Under federal law (the Oil Pollution Act of 1990 and the Clean Water Act) it is illegal to discharge any petroleum
product into the water. By law, any oil or fuel spill that leaves a sheen on the water must be reported to the
U.S. Coast Guard at 1-800-424-8802.
You are responsible for any environmental damage caused by your fuel spill. Sopreventing spills will be
beneficial for you and the boating environment!
It is also against the law to use detergent or other chemicals on a spill to disperse the oil or sheen. These
products can cause the petroleum to sink into the water, causing more harm to marine animals and bottom
sediments.
If you have spilled a petroleum product, immediately stop the source of the leak, use oil absorbent pads or
booms, and notify your marina. Call the U.S. Coast Guard. Your marina may also know a state agency that
needs to be contacted. If the spill is of any substantial size, we also recommend you call your insurance
company.
Fines for discharging hazardous materials
Civil penalties:
Up to $27,500 per day, per violation. 33 U.S.C. 1319(d).
Injunctive relief. 33 U.S.C. 1319(b).
Criminal charges:
Negligent Violations: $2,500 to $27,500 fine or imprisonment for one
year, or both. 33 U.S.C. 1319(c)(1).
Knowing Violations: $5,000 to $50,000 fine or imprisonment for not
more than three years, or both. 33 U.S.C. 1319(c)(2).
Knowing Endangerment: Up to $250,000 fine or imprisonment for up to
15 years, or both. 33 U.S.C. 1319(c)(3).
Click below for more information about how you can prevent fuel spills.
http://www.boatus.com/cleanwater/outreach/moreinfo1.htm
When changing your boats oil, to reduce the chance of a spill, temporarily turn off your bilge pump, and put a
lid on the used oil container before transferring it to shore. Ask your marina for the closest oil recycling facility
or check on http://www.earth911.org to find it yourself.
3/9/2004
Environmental Tips
Page 1 of 2
Boat owners who do their own maintenance and repair work must be aware of the environmental
consequences, and must learn the basic steps they can take to protect the environment, remembering that they
themselves are part of what they will be protecting. If they prefer to use professional maintenance, they should
apply the same basic principles to the yard that is doing the work.
10 ways to more environmentally friendly boat MAINTENANCE

Boaters enjoy the best of our waterways the peace of being on the water, the ability to interact with nature,
and the beauty of the open spaces. Whether you are in a personal watercraft, a row boat, or a large motorboat,
each of us has a vested interest in the health of these waterways and natural resources. Its this vested interest
that drives many boaters and marina operators to ask what they can do to help the environment. The BoatU.S.
Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water works to help these groups understand specific actions they
can take to take care of the environment while having a great time on the water. Here are some ideas:
1. Reuse and recycle. Recycle spent antifreeze, fuel, oil, oil filters, and batteries. Use less
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
toxic propylene glycol antifreeze whenever possible, but check before mixing it with other
antifreeze for recycling.
Put a sturdy trash container on your boat. If its in an open area, make sure it has a
locking lid to prevent light items from blowing away.
Tune up your engine. A tuned engine improves fuel economy and burns fuel more
efficiently, causing fewer emissions into the air and water.
Clean your bottom. Keeping your hull clean and free of barnacles, grass and other
marine growth will help reduce fuel consumption, and help increase your boats'
performance. Use a hard (not ablative) anti-fouling paint if you plan on scrubbing the boat
bottom while in the water.
Recycle at your marina. If you do not currently have recycling at your marina, let the
manager know that you and other boaters would support the separate collection of
recyclables, particularly aluminum cans.
Fix your prop. Damaged props greatly reduce the efficiency of your engine. Having a
prop that is clean and in good condition will increase your performance, and help reduce
fuel consumption.
Clean your bilge. Having a clean bilge will help you spot fuel/oil leaks, and help you avoid
discharging petroleum into the water. A clean bilge is also much easier on your nose!
Wash your boat often. Try to wash your deck off regularly with fresh water and a scrub
brush to reduce the amount of strong chemical cleaners needed throughout the boating
season. If you boat is hauled for the winter, use that time to do any significant cleaning or
repairs, to reduce the potential for pollutants to enter the water.
Refuel carefully. Do not top off fuel tanks, because it usually leads to spillage. Check out
the BoatU.S. Foundations Help Stop the Drops information to learn more at
http://www.boatus.com/cleanwater/outreach/stopthedrops.htm.
Clean naturally. By using natural cleaners such as vinegar and baking soda, or
biodegradable cleaners and detergents, you will help reduce the amount of solvents and
chemicals going into the water.
For more ideas, click here to view a copy of the BoatU.S. Foundations 21 Steps brochure.
http://www.boatus.com/cleanwater/environmental/21steps.htm
You may also download this file or order copies of the brochure for distribution to other club members or
friends.
10 ways to more environmentally friendly BOATING

Boaters have a vested interest in clean water, which is able to support diverse fish and wildlife. One by one our
collective actions add up. Here are some ideas about how you can help the waters while boating.
3/9/2004
Environmental Tips
Page 2 of 2
1. Stash your trash. Never throw anything into the water that didnt come out of it. Keep
trash, even food waste, onboard and bring it back to recycle or throw away on shore.
2. Fish for the future. Learn proper catch and release techniques and use them after
you've caught what you need.
3. Respect marine wildlife. Dont feed or harass dolphins and other mammals. Reduce
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
speed and give a wide berth to whales and manatees.

Watch your wake. Large wakes can unnecessarily accelerate shoreline erosion. Throttle
back in narrow waterways. Use moorings rather than anchoring in environmentally delicate
areas such as coral reef. When snorkeling or diving, never touch any live coral.
Comply with sewage standards. Install a coast Guard- approved marine sanitation
device on your boat and use it. Consult up-to-date cruising guides for the locations of
pumpout facilities. If you cant find one in your area, organize boat owners to convince
your local marina to install one.
Establish a boat rule that no trash goes thrown overboard - even cigarette butts.
While orienting guests aboard your boat, let them know about this rule and the reasons
behind it.
Use moorings rather than anchoring in environmentally - delicate areas like coral
reefs.
Less is more. Reduce the amount of packaging and plastic you take aboard. Pack food
in Tupperware, use bulk containers of chips, soda, etc.
Know the water. Avoid shallow waters, reefs, and sandbars. You can not only avoid the
cost of a tow, potential fine, and the damage done to your boat, but you can also help
protect fragile marine plants and animals.
Get involved. You can make an even greater impact by donating money and/or your time
to environmental action groups, from national organizations like the Center for Marine
Conservation, the BoatU.S. Foundation, and to regional groups such as the Chesapeake
Bay Foundation. Be a watchdog. If youre out on the water and see oil or chemical spill or
other pollution, call the Coast Guards National response Center hotline (800-424-8802).
For further reading on these topics and other boating information, The BoatU.S. Foundation recommends any
of the following: All of these can be found through your local BoatU.S. Marine Center, the BoatU.S. Catalog or
the Online Store! (www.boatus.com)
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Chapman's Piloting by: Elbert S. Maloney

Chapman's Hands-On Powerboating CD ROM
The Annapolis Book of Seamanship by: John Rousmaniere
US Power Squadron Booklets (Knots, Sailing, GPS, Radar, etc.)
US Coast Guard Auxiliary's Skipper's Safe Boating Course
3/9/2004
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Page 1 of 2
COMPANY'S COMING - Understanding your responsibility to guests and other boaters

Before your guest steps aboard...
When a guest steps aboard, the typical boat owner is
more likely to be thinking more about having lunch or
getting underway than worrying about his
responsibilities as "Master" of the vessel. But if that
guest were to stumble and be injured, you can bet the
boat owner would quickly ponder what, if anything,
could have been done to have prevented the injury
and, heaven forbid, whether he might be liable.
The question of liability is both simple and complex,
steeped in more than 3,000 years of maritime legal
principles dating back to the Phoenicians. Admiralty
law, like land-based legal concepts, starts with the
premise that a property owner owes his invited guest a
duty to exercise ordinary or reasonable care for the
safety of the guest.
Deciding just what constitutes reasonable care can be especially complicated on a boat, which is bobbing,
slippery and filled with obstructions. It has a great deal to do with the experience of the boat owner and the
boating experience of the passenger and whether the boat owner had or should have had knowledge or notice
of some dangerous condition. Additionally, it may depend on whether the owner knew or should have known
his guest was unaware of or unfamiliar with the condition.
The duty to exercise reasonable care is rooted in the duty to provide a reasonably safe boat for the invited
guest. This does not require that the boat be accident proof. Under the law, the applicable standard of care
requires the boat owner to provide a boat that is reasonably safe, not one that is absolutely safe.
A guest also has some responsibility - a duty to exercise care for his or her own safety. A guest cannot simply
walk blindly about the boat. But reasonable care does mean that you may be held accountable if you fail to
warn a guest, for example, about a ladder you know is unstable.
Here is an example of an insurance claim to illustrate responsibility: A skipper invited an acquaintance to come
by and inspect the aging sport fisherman he'd been fixing up for two years. Like most boats that are being
restored from the keel up, the old boat was loaded with half-finished projects - wiring, cabinetry, engines, etc.
The friend arrived while he was in the engine room puttering with the wiring. After a quick "yoo-hoo," the friend
started down into the main saloon but fell when the ladder slipped out from an unsecured fitting.
The friend wound up in the engine compartment
only a few inches from the skipper. The friend's
injuries were neither serious nor permanent, but the
skipper knew of the hazard and failed to warn his
guest, which meant that he may well have been
liable if the case had gone to court.
What about a clearly visible hazard such as an
uncovered hatch? The law call this "open and
obvious" danger, but courts have had trouble
agreeing on whether you have to give someone a
warning in the face of such a known risk. Some
judges have ruled that the duty to warn is not
imposed when you have an open and obvious
condition since, under a standard of reasonable
care, everyone is equally able to see the hazard.
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Other courts, however, have ruled that your invited

guest may not appreciate the risk of what you believe is a readily apparent danger. Even more to the point,
however, is the practical reality of ever-increasing numbers of lawsuits. Not only are lawsuits expensive, they
are time consuming and take a tremendous emotional toll. Whatever legal comfort you might get in thinking
that the danger is obvious, the reality is that the situation in the legal world today instructs you should
always err on the side of giving a warning.
As an experienced skipper you know that a boat can pitch suddenly when it goes through a wake or comes
about. You know to hang on until the boat is steady again. But these situations may be new and hazardous to a
guest.
Clearly then, as skipper, you have the responsibility to warn an unsuspecting guest when you are aware of a
hazardous situation on your boat. Further, you have a responsibility to warn guests about possible risks that are
unrelated to your boat, but which are all around you: passing boat wakes, severe weather, tidal changes, etc.
And, even if you are unaware of a loose railing, wobbly step, etc. or you don't see an approaching boat wake,
you may still be liable for any injuries that result.
Remember then, the next time you welcome someone aboard, that an injury is more likely than ever to result in
a lawsuit that, win or lose, could cost a fortune. When you also consider the many months of lost time and
emotional strain you would live with, it might be wise to remember what a philosopher once said: "Be bold with
your caution."
3/9/2004
Boating Under the Influence
Page 1 of 3
DRUGS AND DECISIONS ON THE WATER

SOME SOBERING FACTS
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About half of all boating accidents involve alcohol.

The U.S. Coast Guard estimates the number of non-fatal boating accidents to be 60,000 or
higher with property damage well over $240 million annually.
Each year- from 1961, when statistics were first kept, through 1992- boating accidents
have claimed over 800 lives, more than in airplane or train accidents, and have injured
thousands more. Waterways are second only to highways as the scene of accidental
deaths in the country. The Coast Guard and the U.S. Congress recognize alcohol as a
significant problem on the water.
Boating Stressors:
STRESSORS COMMONLY AFFECTING HELMSMEN AND PASSENGERS MAKE DRINKING WHILE
BOATING EVEN MORE DANGEROUS THAN DRINKING AND DRIVING:
Research shows that four hours of exposure to noise, vibration, sun, glare, wind and other motion on water
produces a kind of fatigue, or "boater's hypnosis" which slows reaction time almost as much as if you were
legally drunk. Adding alcohol to boating stress factors intensifies their effects- each drink multiplies your
accident risk.
BOATING is more fun than driving, right?

No speed limits, no traffic signals, no merging lanes, no potholes. If you think that makes operating a boat
under the influence of alcohol safer than drinking and driving, you could be dead wrong. Alcohol affects your
ability to function in three critical ways. Your balance, judgment and reaction time are affected almost
immediately with the first few drinks.
A FEW BEERS UNDER YOUR BELT CAN PUT YOU UNDER:
Alcohol's effect on your BALANCE can be critical on a boat; simply falling overboard and
drowning accounts for at least one in four boating fatalities. When you are "tipsy", the unstable,
moving platform of the boat can easily cause you to fall overboard.
Harry is just finishing his second beer. His Blood Alcohol Content is only one-third of what would
make him legally drunk. But Harry has "Boater's Hypnosis" and by drinking only two beers during
the last hour, he increased his chances of having an accident.
Will Harry risk and accident or the possibility of a $1,000 federal fine by having another drink? Or
will he play it smart and either stop drinking or turn the helm over to a sober skipper?
The alcohol that makes you lose your balance also reduces your body's ability to protect you
against the cold water. With alcohol in your blood, the numbing effects of cold water occur much
faster than when you are sober. Within minutes, you may not be able to call for help, swim to a
float or reach the safety of the boat.
Additionally, imbibing alcohol can lessen motor function, skew judgment and interfere with
decision-making ability. In the event of a fall overboard, it can increase the danger of cardiac
arrest and some researchers believe drinking increases susceptibility to inner ear disorientation
that is said to cause some swimmers to swim down, instead of up, thus increasing the risk of
death or serious injury.
ALCOHOL CAN MAKE A BAD SITUATION WORSE:
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Page 2 of 3
What else do you lose when you drink? Your JUDGMENT. In skills tests, alcohol-impaired boat
operators all reported that they were better operators while intoxicated than sober, despite
instrument readings that documented their reduced performance. Alcohol reduced inhibitions,
causing normally cautious people to try stunts or enter high-risk situations a sober person would
avoid.
ALCOHOL ONLY MAKES YOU THINK YOU ARE PERFORMING BETTER ... AND DRAMATICALLY
REDUCES YOUR REACTION TIME:
Alcohol severely diminishes your ability to react to several different signals at once. With the first
drink, brain functions are depressed. It takes longer to receive information from your eyes, ears
and other senses, and still more time to react. When peripheral vision, focus and depth perception
are impaired by alcohol, it is difficult to correctly judge speed and distance, or track moving
objects. Reduced night vision and the inability to distinguish red from green make the intoxicated
night boater an even greater hazard.
Fact or Fiction
MYTH: Beer is less intoxicating than wine or distilled liquor.
FACT: One 12-oz. beer contains the same amount of alcohol as 5 ounces of 12% wine
or 1-1/2 oz. of 80 proof liquor.
MYTH: Diluting hard liquor slows the absorption rates.

FACT: Diluting an alcoholic beverage with water or fruit juice slows absorption. Mixing
alcohol with a carbonated beverage increases absorption and intoxicates you more
quickly.
MYTH: A cold shower, coffee, physical activity or fresh air will sober you up
FACT: Cold showers and coffee will only produce a clean, wide-awake drunk. Only your
liver can detoxify alcohol. For each drink you consume, it takes approximately two hours
to sober up.
MYTH: A shot of brandy or whiskey will warm you up.

FACT: In moderate amounts, alcohol dilates the small blood vessels close to the skin,
giving a deceptive "glow" of warmth. In fact, the dilated blood vessels reduce your body's
ability to guard against heat loss.
MYTH: Alcohol is a stimulant.

FACT: Alcohol is a depressant. It is absorbed directly into the blood stream through the
stomach. As blood circulates through your brain, the alcohol depresses body functions
and learned restrictions on social behavior. Judgment, balance, vision and reaction time
are affected almost immediately.
HOW DO YOU STAY ALERT AND AVOID HAZARDS ON THE WATER?
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Limit your alcohol consumption to one drink or less per hour. Always eat before you drink,
and sip your drinks.
Be aware of the effects of alcohol, both on and in the water. Remember that boating stress
factors alone will reduce your ability to function.
If you expect to have more than one or two drinks per two-hour period, allow a non-drinker
to operate the boat.
Better yet, don't go boating. A responsible boater will refuse to allow an intoxicated or
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Page 3 of 3
impaired person to take the helm.

Operation of a boat while intoxicated is a federal offense, subject to a $1,000 fine. Criminal penalties are as
high as $5,000. Many states are toughening their "Boats and Booze" laws by stiffening penalties and boosting
law enforcement efforts. Most states also restrict operating "under the influence". Operating under the
influence has a lower threshold Blood Alcohol Content--usually .05%. However, you may be charged with
operating under the influence at any point--it is at the discretion of the boating officer based on their perception
of how you are functioning as a boat operator.
Banning alcohol from boats is not practical. But moderation and common sense on the water are very practical.
When you operate a boat, you accept responsibility for the boat, for the safety of your passengers and crew
and for others out enjoying the water.
Alcohol isn't the sport. Boating is the sport. Enjoy it safely!
3/9/2004
Rules of the Road
Page 1 of 10
Whenever you meet another boat, its like approaching an unmarked intersection in your car. Knowing a few,
simple right of way rules will help you avoid a collision. Just as motorists must know what to do when
approaching a four way stop, every crossing situation at sea is like approaching an unmarked intersection.
Because there are so many different types of boats and styles of boating, it is important to know what to expect
when you come upon another vessel.
"Vessels" are anything that floats on the water that is used, or is capable of being used as a means of
transportation on water. A log, a bathtub and many other things could be considered a vessel under the
Navigation Rules. The Navigation Rules distinguish one vessel from another by both its design, and by its
actions. This section covers maneuvering rules only.
The Rules of the Road are published by the U. S. Government Printing Office, and are available in any boating
supply stores. Every boat owner should have a copy, but they are mandatory to be kept on vessels over 10
meters (39 feet) in length.
There are other navigation rules that you are required to know. Sound Rules are covered under the Sound
Signaling Equipment section. Light Rules are covered under the Navigation Light Equipment section.
Vessel Types
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Power Driven Vessel - Any vessel propelled by machinery. This includes any boat that
has an engine. Sailboats are considered powerboats when they have the engines on-even if the sails are up.
Sailing Vessel - Any vessel under sail alone. Remember, the engine only has to be on for
a sailboat to be considered a powerboat.
Vessels engaged in fishing - Means any vessel fishing with nets, lines, trawls or other
fishing apparatus which restrict maneuverability, but does not include a vessel fishing with
trolling lines or other fishing gear which doesn't restrict maneuverability. This means a
shrimper out of Galveston is "engaged in fishing". Someone out trolling for stripers in their
Grady-White is NOT considered to be engaged in fishing under the Rules....
Seaplanes - Are any aircraft designed to operate from the water.
Vessels not under Command - Any vessel that for some exceptional circumstance is
unable to steer as required by the Rules, and is therefore unable to keep out of the way of
another vessel. If Joe boater slips and knocks himself out, and can no longer steer--that's
a vessel not under command. If the steering cable goes out, and you can't turn the boat,
that's a vessel not under command. If the captain is not paying attention and hits another
boat, that's negligence.
Vessels restricted in their ability to maneuver - Means a vessel that can't maneuver as
required by the rules because of the size or operation of the vessel. , a fishing vessel
pulling in nets, and a buoy tender placing a buoy are all examples of a vessel restricted in
their ability to maneuver.
Vessels constrained by draft - Means that a vessel can't deviate from a course/channel
because they might run aground. A freighter in a narrow channel is an example of this.
NOTE--This is for International waters only, not Inland.
Underway - Means that you are not anchored, moored, at the dock, or aground. If you are
even drifting along, you are underway.
Restricted visibility - Means any condition such as fog, mist, falling snow, rain, or other
similar causes that make it difficult to see other vessels. Losing your glasses is NOT
restricted visibility.
RULE, RULE, RULE YOUR BOAT

It may seem as if you can do anything you want while you are on the water (You might also think that it looks as
if everyone else is going crazy on the water). Boating on a crowded waterway can be scary! The good news is
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Rules of the Road
Page 2 of 10
that there are rules to govern the action of each vessel. The bad news is that many vessel operators do not
know the rules!
Not complying with the Rules - even if you don't know them, can get you in trouble on the water. Even if you
think you are following the Rules, if there is something that you can do to avoid a collision - you must do it, even
if you deviate from a different Navigation Rule.
It is your responsibility as the ship's captain to be aware of your surroundings at all times, and to operate your
vessel in a safe manner. Caution may not be fun, but having an accident sure stinks.
The Rules state that every vessel shall use all available means appropriate to the prevailing conditions to
determine if a risk of collision exists. If there is any doubt, such risk shall be deemed to exist. If you
think something bad can happen, you must be prepared in case it does, and do everything you can to make
sure it doesn't.
RULES EXPLAINED
The Rules are designed to designed to tell you what to do when you operate your vessel near other vessels.
The purpose of the Rules of the Road is to help you avoid an accident--not to establish responsibility or liability
if you get into an accident. - Remember, if you get into an accident, you can be held liable, even if you followed
the Rules to the letter!
Your primary obligation is to operate in a safe manner. Under the Rules, there is no "right-of-way" like there is
on a street. For most situations, Boats are called one of the following:
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Give-Way Vessel - If you are the Give-Way vessel, you must act as if the "stand-on"
vessel has the right to keep going the way it is going. It is your responsibility to signal your
intentions to the stand-on vessel, and it is your responsibility to maneuver your boat around
the other in a safe manner. Also known as a "Burdened" vessel, as it has the burden of.
Stand-On Vessel - If you are the Stand-On vessel, it is your responsibility to acknowledge
the intended actions of the give-way vessel. You must also maintain your current course
and speed until the give-way vessel passes, or you enter a dangerous situation.
THE PECKING ORDER

There is a "pecking order" that can be used as a simplified memory aid to determine right of way for vessels of
different types. Get very familiar with this list, as it is important to understand it thoroughly. The lower most
vessel on the list is the give way vessel, and must stay out of the way of vessels that are higher on the list:
Overtaken vessel (top priority)
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Vessel not under command

Vessels restricted in their ability to maneuver
Vessels constrained by draft
Fishing vessels engaged in fishing, with gear deployed
Sailing vessels
Power driven vessels
Collision avoidance Rules

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Rules apply to vessels in all conditions of visibility. Rules are the same at night or in
fog, for instance, as they are during a bright sunny day.
Every vessel must maintain a proper look-out by sight and hearing at all times.
Operator inattention and not having an adequate look out are a leading cause of accidents
each year.
Every vessel must proceed at a safe speed at all times. Several factors should be
considered when determining safe speed, including but not limited to the state of visibility,
traffic density, your vessel's maneuverability, with special reference to stopping distance
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Rules of the Road
Page 3 of 10
and turning ability. At night, consider the presence of background lights such as those from
shore, or from the back-scatter of your vessel's own lights. Consider also the state of wind,
sea, and current, and the proximity of navigational hazards.
The Rules specifically require that any action taken to avoid collision, if the
circumstances allow, will be positive, made in ample time, and in keeping with good
seamanship. Any changes in course or speed should be large enough to be readily
apparent to the other vessel. This means that you should avoid last second changes in
course, and you should avoid a small series of changes. Change direction early, and
make a large turn.
Collision Avoidance # 1
If your vessel, be it a powerboat or a sailboat, meets a vessel that is restricted

in its ability to maneuver, you must give way.
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Rules of the Road
Page 4 of 10
a. Sailboat meeting a trawling fishing boat trawling boat has right of way.
b. Sailboat meeting a trawling fishing boat trawling boat has right of way.
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Rules of the Road
Page 5 of 10
Powerboat crossing a tug pushing a barge ahead.
MANEUVERING
The main situations of collision risk are overtaking, meeting head-on,
and crossing. When one of two vessels is to keep out of the way
(give-way vessel), the other, the stand-on vessel, must maintain
course and speed. The stand-on vessel must take avoiding action
when it becomes apparent that the vessel required to give way is not
taking appropriate action.
The Crossing Rule - Both International and Inland Rules state that
when two power-driven vessels are crossing so as to involve risk of
collision, the vessel which has the other on her starboard side (the
give-way vessel) must keep out of the way.
If circumstances permit, cross behind the other vessel (the
stand-on vessel).
At night, if you see a red light crossing right-to-left in front of you, you need to change your course. If you see
a green light crossing from left-to-right, you are the stand-on vessel, and should maintain course and speed.
The Meeting Situation - At times there may be some doubt whether
the situation is a crossing or a head-on meeting.
In case of doubt, you should assume that it is a meeting situation, in
which neither vessel has a clear-cut "right-of-way," and each must act
to avoid the other.
Each vessel in a meeting situation must alter course to starboard so
that each will pass on the port side of the other. At night, you will
recognize a meeting situation if you simultaneous see a white bow
light and both red and green side lights.
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Rules of the Road
Page 6 of 10
Power Driven Boats Crossing Port to Port
When you meet an oncoming vessel, and wish to pass port to port, you are
required to sound one short blast with your horn. If the other boat is in
agreement, they should respond with a similar blast.
1a
Power Driven Boats Crossing Starboard to Starboard
If you approach another vessel head on, and wish to pass it on its starboard
side, you are required to sound two short blasts with your horn. If the other
vessel is in agreement, they should sound the same signal in response.
1b
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The Overtaking Situation - Any vessel

overtaking any other vessel must keep out
the way of the vessel being overtaken.
The former is the give-way vessel and the
latter is the stand-on vessel.
This rule applies even if the overtaking
vessel is propelled by wind, oars, or
rubber band paddlewheel.
A vessel is deemed to be overtaking when
coming up with another vessel from a
direction more than 22.5 degrees abaft
(behind) her beam. This is the angle
prescribed by the stern light.
At night, the overtaking vessel will see
only the white stern light of the vessel
being overtaken. If you see either side
light, it is a crossing situation.
Power Driven Boats Passing to Port
on THEIR starboard side, you must sound one short blast. If they understand
your signal and agree, they will sound one short blast in response. The vessel
being overtaken has a responsibility to maintain course and speed in order to
3a
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Rules of the Road
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Power Driven Boats Passing to Starboard
on THEIR PORT side, you must sound two short blasts. If they understand your
signal and agree, they will sound two short blasts in response. The vessel being
overtaken has a responsibility to maintain course and speed in order to
3b
Operating in a narrow channel - First and foremost, you have to avoid larger vessels that can only travel in a
channel. Even if your vessel is operating under the rules otherwise, you must give way to a boat that could
potentially run aground or get into a collision if they left the channel.
Try and operate on the edge of the channel. Be extra cautious if you come to a bend in the waterway, and can't
see traffic coming towards you.
You may sound a short blast as a warning to traffic headed your way.
On the Great Lakes and Western River system, vessels going downstream are stand-on, vessels going up
stream must give-way.
Operating in a Narrow Channel # 1
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Navigation rules can vary slightly if you travel on Western rivers or the Great
Lakes. Traffic heading downstream, with a following current, has right-of-way
over any type of vessel heading upstream.
Operating in a Narrow Channel # 2
A vessel nearing a bend in a channel or fairway where other vessels may be

obscured by an intervening obstruction may sound one prolonged blast. If an
approaching vessel that may be behind the obstruction hears the signal, it
should be answered by one prolonged blast in response.
Do I Have a Potential Collision Situation? When the distance between two vessels decreases and the
relative angle of the other vessel off the bow remains the same, then you will soon be trying to occupy the same
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spot in the water - a collision situation. Change course if you can, even if you are the stand-on vessel.
OTHER RULES
Sailing Vessels
Whether under inland or international rules, power vessels must keep clear of sailing vessels in open waters. A
sailboat with motor running is defined as a motor boat. The "pecking order" between sailing vessels is more
complex. When two sailing are approaching one another so as to involve risk of collision, one of then shall keep
out of the way of each other as follows:
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When each has the wind on a different side, the vessel which has the wind on the port side
shall keep out of the way of the other.
When both have the wind on the same side, the vessel which is to windward shall keep out
of the way of the vessel which is to leeward.
If a vessel with the wind on the port side sees a vessel to windward and cannot determine
with certainty whether the other vessel has the wind on the port or the starboard side, she
shall keep out of the way of the other.
For the purposes of these rules the windward side shall be deemed to be the side opposite
to that on which the mainsail is carried. On square-rigged vessels, it shall be deemed to be
the side opposite to that on which the largest fore-and-aft sail is carried.
Practice
Now that you are familiar with "The Rules," go out and use them in passing, meeting, and crossing situations
you find on the water. You will get many puzzled looks from inexperienced boaters with no training or testing.
Remember, if a collision does occur, your proper use of the correct signals and appropriate actions will win you
points! But you know enough now to avoid a collision.
3/10/2004
Aids to Navigation
Page 1 of 6
Nav-Aid Basics
Unlike the roads and highways that we drive on, the waterways we go boating on do not have road signs that
tell us our location, the route or distance to a destination, or of hazards along the way. Instead, the waterways
have AIDS TO NAVIGATION (or ATONs), which are all of those man-made objects used by mariners to
determine position or a safe course.
These aids also assist mariners in making a safe landfall, mark isolated dangers, enable pilots to follow
channels, and provide a continuous chain of charted marks for precise piloting in coastal waters. The U.S. Aids
to Navigation System is intended for use with nautical charts, which provide valuable information regarding
water depths, hazards, and other features that you will not find in an atlas or road map.
The term "aids to navigation" includes buoys, day beacons, lights, lightships, radio beacons, fog signals, marks
and other devices used to provide "street" signs on the water. Aids To Navigation include all the visible, audible
and electronic symbols that are established by government and private authorities for piloting purposes.
The Coast Guard is the agency responsible for maintaining aids to navigation on U.S. waters that are under
federal jurisdiction or that serve the needs of the U.S. armed forces. On bodies of water wholly within the
boundaries of a single state, and not navigable to the sea, the Coast Guard grants the state responsibility for
establishing and maintaining aids to navigation. The U.S. Corps of Engineers is responsible for many of the
canals, dams, locks, and other man-made waterways in the country. The Corps also is responsible for the
regulation of mooring buoys in all navigable U.S. Waters.
The individual Coast Guard districts also may grant permission to private groups and citizens to place "Private"
Aids to Navigation. These aids allow individuals or organizations the ability to mark privately maintained
channels, zones or waterways. These aids must be pre-approved, and must be maintained by the individual or
organization.
Types of Aids to Navigation

The term "aids to navigation" encompasses a wide range of floating and fixed objects (fixed meaning attached
to the bottom or shore), and consist primarily of:
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Buoys - floating objects that are anchored to the bottom. Their distinctive shapes and
colors indicate their purpose and how to navigate around them.
Beacons -Which are structures that are permanently fixed to the sea-bed or land. They
range from structures such as light houses, to single-pile poles. Most beacons have lateral
or non-lateral aids attached to them. Lighted beacons are called "LIGHTS", unlighted
beacons are "DAYBEACONS".
Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell
or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".
CAUTION - Do not count on floating aids to always maintain their precise charted positions, or
unerringly display their characteristics. The Coast Guard works constantly to keep aids on station
and functioning properly, but obstacles to perfect performance are so great that complete
reliability is impossible. Only use floating aids for use as a navigation fix when YOU CANNOT
SEE A FIXED POINT OF REFERENCE.
Aids to Navigation Systems

Depending on where you boat in America, you may see several differences in how navigational marks are
colored, numbered, or lighted. Regardless of the location, buoys and beacons are placed in very specific
locations, to mark either a particular side of a waterway, or some other navigational feature. The primary
system in use is referred to the "U.S. Aids to Navigation System". The U. S. Coast Guard maintains this system
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Aids to Navigation
Page 2 of 6
in conformance to the International Association of Lighthouse Authorities (IALA), which is an international

committee which seeks to ensure safe navigation, primarily through the use of common navigation aids and
signals.
The "LATERAL" system is the familiar RED RIGHT RETURNING system, meaning that on all navigable waters
returning from sea, the red even-numbered marks are on the starboard (right) side of the channel and the green
odd-numbered marks are on the port (left) side of the channel. Numbers on the marks ascend when traveling
from sea to harbor--if you don't have a compass and become disoriented on the water, you will always know
you are heading upstream if the buoy numbers get larger as you travel.
Port Side Odd Numbered Aids

Are numbered with odd numbers, are green in color, and may be lighted (Will have a green light).
Port side marks are located on the left side of the waterway as you travel upstream, and the buoy numbers will
increase as you head upstream. (Chart depictions are shown next to the marks) Port-Side Buoys have a
cylindrical above-water appearance, like a can or drum floating on its axis. Commonly referred to as "CAN"
buoys. Beacons - Port side beacons have square marks attached to them, with two shades of color and a
reflective border.
Starboard Side Even Numbered Aids

Starboard aids are red in color, evenly numbered, and will be on your right side as you travel upstream.
Buoy numbers increase as you head upstream, and may have a red light.
Starboard-side Buoys have an above-water appearance like that of a cylinder topped with a cone, pointed end
up. The cone may come to a point or be slightly rounded. Commonly referred to as "NUN" buoys.
Starboard-side Beacons have triangular marks attached to them, with two shades of color and a reflective
border.
INTERCOASTAL WATERWAY
For the sea buoys that delineate channels off the coast of the United States, and for the Intracoastal Waterway
(ICW), red is on the right (shore side) when proceeding clockwise around the U. S. from the East Coast to the
Gulf Coast, or proceeding north along the West Coast.
ICW marks are further identified by a small yellow reflector at the bottom of the mark. The same port and
starboard marks shown above will look like the following:
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Aids to Navigation
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Numbers on the marks ascend when traveling in this direction. Where the IALA-B and ICW marks meet, one
must be very careful to observe the change in meaning by referral to local charts.
OTHER AIDS
DAYBOARDS - These diamond shaped marks are used to help the vessel operator determine location on a
nautical map. When you see a dayboard, and find the corresponding mark on the chart, you know your precise
location. They may be lettered, and may be lighted with a white light. Their color reflects that of nearby lateral
marks.
SAFE WATER MARKS - These marks are used to mark fairways, mid-channels, and offshore approach
points. They have unobstructed water on all sides. These marks may be lettered, and may be lighted with a
white light. They may also have a red top mark.
ISOLATED DANGER MARKS - These indicate a danger which may be passed on all sides. They are erected
on, or moored on or near danger. They should not be approached closely without special caution. They may
be lighted, and they may be lettered.
Ranges - pairs of unlighted or lighted fixed aids that when observed in line show the pilot to be on the
centerline of a channel.
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(Click on image)
MOORING BUOYS - Mooring buoys come in two different shapes; spherical and cylindrical. Both have white
bodies with a solid blue horizontal band on the center of the buoy. Mooring buoys may have a white reflector,
or a white light attached to them. Mooring buoys are the ONLY buoys to which you may legally tie your boat.
Buoys are generally placed in marked anchorage areas, and you must take caution if you are traveling near
buoy areas. Check your state boating guide for particular operating restrictions in anchorage areas.
SPECIAL MARKS - Special marks have no lateral significance (meaning they don't tell you which side of the
channel or river you may be on). These marks are used to mark a special feature or area. These include area
limits for anchorages, fishing grounds, or dredging/spoil areas. These buoys may be lighted, and if they are it
will be a fixed or flashing yellow light. Shape is optional, but usually follows the shape of the navigation buoys
that it is positioned near.
REGULATORY MARKS - Are designed to assist boaters by informing them of special restrictions or dangers
that they are approaching. Regulatory marks are white "can" buoys that have an orange shape on them. The
mark will give either a warning or instructions on how to proceed. The shape determines what type of mark it is.
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An open diamond shape signifies danger.

A diamond with a cross in it signifies an exclusion area that you may not enter.
A circle indicates an upcoming operating restriction, such as a speed limit.
A square or rectangular shape is used for conveying instructions.
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(Click image to see Regulatory Buoys)
UNIFORM STATE WATERWAY MARKING SYSTEM

This system was originally intended for use on lakes and inland waterways that weren't covered by nautical
charts. Many states use this system for their waterways, though the system is being phased out and being
replaced by the Federal system shown above. Though the system operates under essentially the same format
as the Federal System, there are a few differences that you should know about.
Lateral Aids
The state system differs in several ways:
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Buoys are placed in pairs, and you pass in between them.

State buoys do use the color red for starboard side marks, but they are cans, and
not nuns, while port buoys are black and can-shaped.
Numbers on buoys go up as you head upstream, or towards the head of
navigation.
Portside buoys use the color black instead of green
Are numbered with odd numbers
May show a green reflector or light
Starboard side buoys are red
Are numbered with even numbers
May show a red reflector or light
Other State Aids

Red-topped White Buoys
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Signify that you may pass south or west of buoy

May be numbered
May show a white reflector or light
Red-striped white Buoys

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Signify that you should not pass between mark and nearest shore
May be lettered
May show white reflector or light
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Aids to Navigation
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Black-topped White Buoys

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Signify that you may pass east or north of buoy

May be numbered
May show a white reflector or light
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Anchoring
Page 1 of 5
With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut
corners. Your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring
conditions you generally encounter.
Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier
gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to
anchor in open waters.
Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength
to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER
IS BETTER.
Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two
anchors--preferably of different types.
Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The Lunch
hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are
useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour
and over.
The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an
anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.
PLAYING HOOKEY
Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy,
choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an
understanding of three things:
Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use.
For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
Where you're going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the
bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a
large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if
not impossible.
The table below will give you an idea of what your boat needs.
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Anchoring
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(Most anchors will list their holding power on their sales sheet.)
Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight.
Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred
pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.
ANCHOR TYPES
There are several types of anchors you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas
you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.
Lightweight or "Danforth" Type

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce
clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds,
and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are
machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig
the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor
line.
Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light
weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in
comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can
easily dig into the bottom.
Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the
flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not
recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.
Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Style

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a
top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR)
shank.
When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself.
Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.
Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of
galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.
Claw or "BRUCE" Style

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar
performance to plow anchors, at a lower weight.
Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter
how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.
Kedge or Navy
A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds,
rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or
loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.
Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into
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Anchoring
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bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight
for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.
Grapnels
Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar,
others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items
on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as
canoes or jon boats.
Mushroom Anchors
"Mushroom" anchors get their name from, as you might imagine,
their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings,
and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.
The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult
to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger
boats.
LINE AND GEAR

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are
either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.
The best all around line for anchoring is nylon in three-strand twist.
Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring
much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in
anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain
should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight
to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a
horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.
Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or
"medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium
or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the
best choice for anchoring.
Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt
absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy
water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.
Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added
weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor,
which helps it to set more firmly into the bottom.
Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl
coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.
Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most
marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is
slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is
made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those
wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.
Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy
a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is
recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or
to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you
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choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.
As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your
anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines comes with
plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped
galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear,
and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.
SCOPE
Scope = Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.
Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is
recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of
rode.
For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would throw out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio
of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor
on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater
always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case!
Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from
high seas.
Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with
shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing
out an extra anchor.
As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.
TIME TO SET THE ANCHOR
Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.
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Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a
safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give
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them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different
requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of
rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts
or current changes.
Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run
free once tossed overboard.
Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts
to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set,
and then continue to release the rode.
Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on
the bow cleat.
Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the
appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are
anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to
the size of your boat.
STAYING PUT
It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range
and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is
swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.
WATCH OUT!!! Common Anchoring Mistakes...
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Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here.
Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.
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Docking
Page 1 of 3
For many people docking their boat is one of the most trying experiences to be had on the water. Attempting to
tie up to a busy fuel dock on a windy weekend day can test anyone's piloting skills.
Let's face it, you may be the greatest captain on the planet, but your ability to dock well is the key to your
reputation.
The things you need to notice when you are about to dock is where you intend to tie up, where other boats are,
what the wind is doing, and to a lesser extent what the current is doing.
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Look and see how much room you have to maneuver your vessel around the area you
intend to dock.
Docking next to a long open pier is usually going to be easier than backing into a narrow
slip in a confined marina.
Are other boats leaving or entering the area you need to turn? How other boats are tied up
or moving can greatly alter your intended steering and docking.
Knowing which way the wind is blowing can greatly aid your docking. When coming
alongside a pier with the wind in your face, head in at a steep angle to the pier and turn
sharply at the last moment to avoid being blown out by the wind. If the wind is at your stern,
come into the dock at a narrow angle and let the wind do the work of pushing your boat up
against the dock.
Current can also effect your docking in a similar fashion to wind, and in some areas can
preclude you from docking at all in low water. Consult your tide tables, especially when
traveling in new waters.
At all times, maintain no more than steerage speeds and try and have some crew ready with lines to tie off
immediately. Using your lines to assist in docking can save a great deal of time and energy. Lines can be used
as simple fulcrums to help bring either end of your boat to the dock. Let the lines do the work!
Like the people who run them, all boats differ in their docking characteristics to one extent or another.
And, the distinctions are particularly significant among three separate types: single-screw, keel-equipped
powerboats and sailboats; single-screw planing hulls of moderate draft powered by a single outboard or
sterndrive; and keel-less powerboats driven by twin engines, whether inboards, outboards, or sterndrives.
Covering all three types (and the variations within each) would be impossible in one section, so we're going to
restrict ourselves to single engines this time around.
If you are routinely experiencing frustration and anxiety when entering slips or tying up to docks, the very first
step is to give yourself a break: handling a boat - any boat - in tight quarters is difficult, particularly if you've got
an audience and especially if you have to deal with wind and/or current.
Sure, launch operators and charterboat skippers who make 500-1,000 landings a year are good at it, but why
should you be? Your total is probably more like 50 dockings annually, and expecting yourself to be perfect is
unrealistic.
So, as you're going into a docking situation, it's better to relax and admit to yourself that you're probably going
to make a mistake. That step in itself should help you calm down and, more importantly, slow down. Only good
can come of your being more deliberate and more forgiving of yourself and your crew.
Next to patience and self-control, your biggest ally in docking maneuvers is nylon line. If, early on in the
process, you (or a crew member) can connect your boat to the targeted dock or piling, and if you then know
what to do with the throttle and steering wheel, you've got it made. Your problems are solved.
Here are some examples, all involving "spring" lines, a much-misunderstood term that simply means lines
against which the boat can "work," thus ending up in the right position:
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You are heading for a fuel dock consisting of a bulkhead of pilings and rip-rap. The problem is, you have to hit a
gap between a 32' power cruiser and a 20' sailboat that are already tied up. And, to complicate matters, there's
a 15-knot wind blowing directly off the shore.
The dock attendant is on hand and looking nervous because you aren't going to have more than 8' of clearance
fore and aft. Don't worry! Ask one of your crew to throw him a line that is already cleated and coiled at the port
rail forward, (preparation is 75% of the battle). As the dock attendant grabs the tag end of your line, ask him to
attach it to a piling or cleat aft of the space into which you must fit.
Now, with the line secured at the dock and your wheel
turned hard toward the dock (to port in this example), just
put your boat in reverse gear, at idle speed.
Miracle upon miracles, your boat will start moving
sideways, into the allotted space! If you're working
against current or wind and your progress is too slow, just
advance the throttle slightly. You can also make small
adjustments in your approach angle and speed by turning
the wheel slowly one way or the other.
And, if it looks as if you're going to be too far forward of
"the slot," momentarily shift into neutral, take up the slack
that will immediately develop in the spring line, recleat the line again, and put the engine into reverse once
more. If you're too close at the stern, carry out the same maneuver, but slack off the spring line.
Now, suppose there has been a 90 to 180 degree wind
shift while you fueled up and went for groceries at the store
down the block from the marina. When you get back to the
boat, there's a 15-knot wind blowing directly down the
dock.
You can't go ahead or astern very far because of the boat
behind you and the one ahead of you.
How are you going to get out of this fix? Again, spring
lines are the answer.
If circumstances favor your pulling out and moving ahead,
run a long spring line from a cleat on your port rail astern to
a piling or cleat on the fuel dock well forward of your
position.
Let go your bow and stern lines. Now, with your wheel hard
to port, put the engine in reverse and back the boat down.
Like magic, your bow will swing out to starboard, clearing
the boat ahead (you may need additional throttle if you're
battling wind and current). You - perhaps aided by the dock
attendant and/or a crew member-can now release the
spring line and proceed out into the harbor.
When, on the other hand, circumstances favor your

backing out of your spot, the spring line should be run from
your bow to a piling or cleat well aft of your position.
In this case, let go the dock lines, turn the wheel hard to
port (the side against the dock), put the idling engine into
forward gear, and watch as your stern swings miraculously out of harm's way.
When it clears the boat behind you, momentarily shift into neutral, release the spring line (or ask that the dock
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attendant free it), shift into reverse, and back away smartly. Again, the peanut gallery will be very impressed.
LANDING WITHOUT INJURY
Five Rules for Avoiding Docking Injuries
Rule # 1. Before each docking maneuver, make sure everyone understands what he or she will
be doing. The corollary to Rule 1 is that you should be aware of where your crew is and what each
is doing.
A woman in California was securing a springline to a cleat when the skipper
suddenly backed down hard with his two 200 HP engines and she got her fingers
crushed. Another man was standing on the dock holding onto a trawler's bow pulpit
when the skipper gunned the engine and yanked him into the water. In both
instances (and many others) the skipper and crew were acting independently.
Rule #2. Don't encourage your crew to make Olympian leaps onto the dock. This is one of the
most common types of accidents. A California man, to cite one example, broke both his heals
when he landed on the dock after jumping from the bow of a large sailboat.
Whenever possible, hand docklines to someone on the dock. If that isn't possible,
wait until the boat is safely alongside the pier before instructing someone to step
ashore. Your crew shouldn't have to make daring leaps across open water to make
up for your sloppy boat handling.
Rule #3. Keep fingers and limbs inboard! As a boats gets close to a dock, passengers tend to
gravitate toward the rail and drape fingers, legs and arms over the side of the boat. If the boat
suddenly swings into a dock or piling, the consequences can be painful.
A woman in Solomons, Maryland lost a finger when a passing boat's wake slammed
her boat into a piling.
Rule #4. Make sure everyone is seated or has something to hold onto. The owner of a 20'
runabout asked his inexperienced nephew to jump onto the dock with a bowline. The young man
eagerly climbed out of his seat and stood precariously on the bow as the boat was approaching
the dock.
A few seconds later the boat glanced off of a piling, only slightly, but without a
handhold the nephew lost his balance and fractured his elbow.
Rule #5. Don't use bodies to stop the boat. A Florida man suffered a separated shoulder when he
tried to keep a 38' Sportfisherman from backing into a piling. Slow down and use fenders.
3/9/2004
National Security
Page 1 of 2
Current world events are touching our lives as never before. As a boater, you may be placed in a situation that
may put you in legal jeopardy, if not at risk of injury or worse.
Knowing how to act in certain areas or situations can not only make your trip more enjoyable, it can help protect
our country.
NAVAL VESSEL PROTECTION ZONES

One thing you must contend with if you boat in certain areas of the country are Naval Vessel Protection Zones.
These zones are designed to prevent attacks against our navy by placing restrictions on how closely you may
come to a naval vessel.
The requirements are:
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You may not approach within 100 yards of any U.S. naval vessel. Sometimes this is
an impossible thing to accomplish. If you need to pass within 100 yards of a U.S. naval
vessel in order to ensure a safe passage in accordance with the Navigation Rules, you
must contact the U.S. naval vessel or the Coast Guard escort vessel on your VHF radio.
(Channel 16)
You must operate at minimum speed within 500 yards of any U.S. naval vessel. You
must proceed as directed by the vessels' commanding officer, or the official patrol.
Violations of the Naval Vessel Protection Zone are a felony offense, punishable by up to 6 years in prison
and/or up to $250,000 in fines.
And don't forget, both the Navy and the Coast Guard are authorized to use deadly force to protect themselves...
YOUR ROLE IN KEEPING OUR WATERWAYS SAFE AND SECURE

Keep your distance from all military, cruise line, or commercial shipping. In addition to
the Naval Security Zone requirements, you may also not operate your vessel near certain
commercial vessels. It's best just to avoid all commercial vessels if possible.
Observe and avoid all security zones and commercial port
operations. Areas that have a large marine facilities including military,
http://64.70.248.203/BoatUSF/Project/info5g.htm
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commercial/cruise, or petroleum facilities should be avoided. There are also

restrictions near most dams, power plants and other facilities located near water.
Don't stop or anchor beneath bridges or in shipping channels. If you do, you can expect
to be asked to move and/or be boarded by law enforcement officials.
Keep a sharp eye out for things that are out of the ordinary. You are
asked to report all activities that seem suspicious to the local authorities,
the Coast Guard, or the port authority. Do not approach or challenge those
acting in a suspicious manner.
Wear your life jacket. Wearing your life jacket, and operating in
accordance with the Rules of the Road and other boating regulations will ease the burden on
the Coast Guard and other law enforcement personnel.
For more information on security zones and how you can help, call the Coast Guard at 800368-5647 or go to the USCG website at http://www.uscgboating.org
http://64.70.248.203/BoatUSF/Project/info5g.htm
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HYPOTHERMIA
Don't get left out in the cold....
One of the most dangerous aspects of boating, particularly for sportsmen who thrive on cold weather
adventure, is the risk of hypothermia. Hypothermia happens when the body loses heat faster than it can
produce it. It can occur as a result of prolonged exposure to cold air, or more dramatically, when a person is
suddenly immersed in cold water. If a sportsman does fall into very cold water, there is only a limited time
before he begins to lose his thinking capability and the use of his limbs. Most experts say that half of all
drowning victims do not actually die from water filling their lungs, but instead from the fatal effects of cold water.
Hypothermia and You

Water does not have to be icy to be cold enough to bring on hypothermia, it just has to be colder than you. Cold
water is considered to be water under 70 degrees, but imagine, even 80 degree water is still almost 20 degrees
colder than your body temperature. Given time, your bodys core temperature will drop as you lose heat to the
water.
Hypothermia and Hunters

Waterfowl hunters use boats on some of the coldest days of the year. Not only is the
water deathly cold on these days, but the hunter is likely wearing enough layers to
make himself heavy and clumsy. If he goes in the water, hes in serious trouble. Here is
where a life jacket or a float coat can mean the difference between life and death.
Without some flotation device, your chances of survival simply arent that good.
(Photo courtesy of MN DNR)
SPLASH!...NOW WHAT?
If you see yourself about to fall in, if possible, cover your face with your hands. This may sound strange, but
quickly becoming immersed in icy water can cause Torso Reflex, or a sudden involuntary intake of breath.
Covering your mouth is an attempt to avoid gulping water into your lungs when this happens.
Try to hold onto something that floats. If you are wearing a life preserver, great. If there are more floating in
the water, grab those too to use as floats. Even decoys can be used, one under each arm, to keep you floating.
Try to hold onto your boat, or even right the boat and climb inside (some boats are inherently buoyant and float
even when filled with water). The idea is to get as much of your body out of the water as possible, so there is
less area that can lose heat.
Conserve what heat you can. Tighten up your jacket, vest, shoes, whatever you are wearing. Try and keep
your legs together, and your arms close to your body. Most importantly, try to keep your head dry and try to
always wear a hat. You will lose over half of your body heat through your head. Even a mesh ball cap will help
retain body heat. The water trapped inside your layers of clothes will warm up from your body heat and act as
a wetsuit. Do not remove clothing!
Do not try to swim unless it is to reach a nearby boat, another person, or a floating object on which you can
climb or use for floatation. Swimming pumps out the warm water trapped between your skin and your clothes
and brings in colder water. Swimming can also cause debilitating cramps. Furthermore, the movement pumps
warm blood to your extremities, where it cools quickly. Swimming can reduce your survival time by almost 50%.
Stay as still as possible, no matter how painful. Intense shivering and severe pain in cold water are natural
reflexes that will not kill you, but cold water can. Getting into the H.E.L.P. position (explained below) may help
you keep your cold arms and legs still.
BE PREPARED
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If the worst happens, why not be prepared? Here are some things you can do in advance to give yourself a
better chance for survival if you do end up in the water. First of all, dress for the water temperature, not for
the air temperature. Having lots of layers on will help you survive if you do end up in the water. Secondly, wear
a hat. When in the water, 50% percent of your heat could be lost through your head - the hat will help slow heat
loss down. Eat high energy foods and carry a candy bar in your pocket; if you fall in, youll be glad to have the
extra energy. Bring extra clothes in a dry bag or garbage bag and keep them in the boat just in case someone
in your party gets wet.
H.E.L.P.
This position, the Heat Escape Lessening Position, or H.E.L.P., aims to protect
some of the areas of your body most prone to heat loss - the head, neck, sides of
the chest cavity and the groin area. If you are wearing a life jacket, this position
can be very effective. To reach this position, you should bring your knees up as
close as possible to your chest and grasp your hands together over your chest. If
this is too difficult, or too unstable, cross your calves, bend your knees and pull
your legs close to your body. Cross your arms and tuck your hands flat under your
armpits.
FLOATING IN WADERS
If you find yourself floating in the water with waders still on, try to use them to your
advantage. Allow some air inside them so they float on the surface, then hold your
hands together behind your knees or your neck and float until help arrives. This
position is most effective if you are wearing a life jacket, otherwise youll have to
use your arms to tread water, or float on your back with your head in the water,
which will make you lose heat more quickly.
HUDDLE
When several people are stranded in the water, they should form a huddle. Facing
inward, they should link their arms over each others shoulders or under each
others arms to get as close as possible, to share as much heat as possible. If
there are children or seniors along, they should go in the center of the huddle so
they can receive warmth front and back. Two or more people huddled together can
increase survival time by 50%.
These survival positions are most effective when the person in the water is wearing a life jacket. If the
person is not wearing a PFD and is forced to swim, they should do so as slowly as possible. Anything that can
be used for flotation - logs, parts of the boat, gas cans, whatever - should be utilized for flotation. The swimmer
can also try breathing into his clothing to put air - and hopefully some floatation - into his torso area.
WHILE WAITING FOR HELP TO ARRIVE:

Any victim pulled from cold water should be treated for hypothermia. Symptoms may include intense shivering,
loss of coordination, mental confusion, cold and blue (cyanotic) skin, weak pulse, irregular heartbeat, and
enlarged pupils. Once shivering stops, core body temperature begins to drop critically. Try to prevent body
cooling and get the victim to a medical facility immediately.
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Gently move the victim to a warm shelter.

Check for breathing and a heartbeat. Start CPR if necessary.
If you have dry clothes or a blanket, remove the victims wet clothes. Use a minimum of
body movement, since rough handling can cause cardiac arrest. Cut the clothes off, if
necessary.
Lay the victim in a level face-up position with a blanket or some other insulation
underneath.
Wrap the victim in a dry blanket or dry clothes. If possible, warm the clothes first. If a
stocking cap is available, put it on the victims head since a great deal of heat is lost from
the head.
If the person is awake and coherent, give them warm (not hot) liquids. Warm hot tea with
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sugar or honey or slightly-cooled hot chocolate are good since sugars can still be absorbed
even if the stomach has shut down.
Never give a hypothermic person alcohol. Alcohol dilates (opens) your veins, which will
make you lose body heat more rapidly.
IF THERE IS NO HELP AVAILABLE

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Apply heating pads or hot water bottles under the blanket to the head, neck, chest, and
groin. Be careful not to burn the victims skin.
If these are unavailable, use your own body warmth to warm the victim. Wrap yourself in a
blanket together and use as much body to body contact as possible.
Do not apply heat to the arms and legs. This forces cold blood from the arms and legs back
toward the heart, lungs and brain, lowering core body temperature and causing after drop
which can be fatal.
Do not massage the victim or give the victim a hot bath. Cardiac arrest is a frequent result
of hypothermia, and moving the victim roughly can be a catalyst for this condition.
Do not give food or drink to unconscious victims.
3/9/2004
Dealing with Fires
Page 1 of 5
YOUR BOAT'S ON FIRE......NOW WHAT?

Using the Wrong Type of Extinguisher
to Fight a Fire is Like Trying to Dig a Hole With a Rake . . .
Fire Extinguishers:
The BoatU.S. Foundation for Boating Safety tests of fire extinguishers confirmed that Coast Guard minimum
requirements are exactly that: the absolute minimum. For fire extinguishers, they are barely adequate. (For
USCG fire extinguisher requirements, see the chart at the bottom of this page.)
Carrying only the required minimum is literally "playing with fire." The tests, using a simulated galley fire,
revealed that a 2.5-lb. extinguisher in the hands of an inexperienced user lacked the capacity to extinguish the
fire-no surprise when you consider that the average discharge time for a 2.5-lb. canister is nine to ten seconds.
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has issued extinguisher recommendations that go beyond the
Coast Guard's minimum requirements. Not only the number, but the location of your extinguishers is critical-if
you can't get to an extinguisher when you need it, it's worthless. You shouldn't have to travel more than half the
length of the boat to reach it.
If that's not practical, an alternative is to step up to the next larger extinguisher size. Spend the few extra dollars
for a tri-class (ABC) extinguisher instead of settling for the less expensive BC unit. Consider a BC unit for the
engine room: it leaves less residue on electrical equipment and machinery, and it costs slightly less. What's the
worry?
You might not think you need to worry too much about fire on a boat. After all, you are literally surrounded by
water. But fire is a very real threat, not only to your boat, but to you and your passengers. Today's
fiberglass/composite boats burn very quickly, and produce large volumes of toxic smoke that is equally as
dangerous. Below are a few tips on fire safety from SEAWORTHY Magazine, along with a few claims reports
from BoatU.S. Insurance that highlight how quickly events can get out of hand. Knowing what to expect, and
what to do are critical if you expect to effectively fight a fire. Each year you need to ensure that your fire
extinguishers are in proper working order, and that everyone who boards the boat knows where they are.
Claim #9702081C: The owner and his two
friends were nearing the last leg of a long trip
from Yorktown, Virginia to Watkins Glen, New
York aboard a 46' sport fisherman that he'd
bought barely three weeks before. They were
making good time across Oneida Lake when one
of the crew left the fly bridge to go below. He
quickly reappeared on the fly bridge: "We've got
a problem," he informed the captain, " smoke!"
The captain immediately brought the engines to
idle and one of the crew tried very briefly to
extinguish the fire. Within a minute or two, he as
overwhelmed by fumes and had to abandon the
effort. After trying unsuccessfully to send out a
Mayday on the VHF, the captain ran to the
foredeck, set an anchor, and hailed a passing
boat by waving a life jacket. Meanwhile, a
volunteer fireman saw the smoke from shore and
dispatched a fireboat. By the time the fire was brought under control, the boat was destroyed.
Later investigation determined that the electrical panel was the source of the fire. The captain's urgent Mayday
call conveys the danger of all fire outbreaks on boats. Unlike fires ashore, where there are usually several
escape routes to safety, there are few places on a burning boat to hide from the heat and noxious fumes. Add
to that the anxiety of standing above many gallons of explosive fuel and the choice to stick or swim (literally)
becomes even more, well, problematic.
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Dealing with Fires
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Time is critical with any fire, but when one occurs in the confined spaces of a boat it is imperative that
every move made by the crew be the correct move.
BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim files consistently confirm that a crew that reacts initially with confusion and
indecision is likely to panic as the fire spreads.
Success and failure depends on understanding the fundamentals of fire classification, and providing the most
efficient fire extinguishers in the locations where they are most likely be needed.
The Fundamentals: Learning Your ABCs of Fire Classification
Not all fires should be treated alike. The source and location of a fire will determine which extinguishing agent
should be used for maximum effect. Many people learn at home, for example, that throwing water on a stovetop grease fire (Class B) will cause a violent spattering reaction and spread the burning grease elsewhere.
Matching the agent to the fire begins with an understanding of how fires are classified:
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Class A fires consist of all combustible solid materials, such as paper, wood, cloth, rubber,
and many plastics including the fiberglass reinforced plastic used for decks and hulls.
Class B fires consist of all flammable liquids, including stove alcohol, grease, gasoline,
diesel, kerosene, oil, oil based paint, teak oil, paint thinners, acetone, varnishes, and
flammable gases or fumes.
Class C fires consist of energized electrical equipment. Class C fires are identified for their
potential to electrocute or shock personnel if conducting water-base extinguishing agents
are applied. Turning off the electricity will change the status of a Class C fire to a Class A
and/or B fire.
Note that Class A, B, and C categories are not subdivided any further, so it may be
easier to think of them as (A) solids, (B) liquids, and (C) electrical fires; there's no need,
for example, to waste time distinguishing between alcohol or kerosene when your stove's
on fire.
All fire extinguishers are rated according to the extinguishing agent's effectiveness in controlling one or more
classes of fire. For example, ABC-rated extinguishers, commonly called multi-purpose or tri-class extinguishers,
are capable of fighting all three classes of fire. Numbers preceding the letters (on portable units only) indicate
an agent's relative effectiveness in extinguishing that particular class of fire. For instance, a 10 BC dry chemical
extinguisher is twice as effective in putting out a fire as a 5 BC unit. Multi-purpose 1A-10 BC dry chemical
extinguishers are becoming more popular as an alternative to the common 10 BC extinguishers because of the
additional Class A rating, especially since the additional cost is minimal (less than $5).
In general, dry chemical extinguishers, which use a chemical powder to smoother the source of the fire,
are the favored choice in the boat's cabin. Not only is a dry chemical extinguisher more effective, it is
easier for an inexperienced user to direct the discharge plume to the base of the flame from a safe
distance.
Conversely, extinguishers with gaseous agents ( CO2,
Halon, and Halon replacements FE-241 and FM-200),
which react with the surrounding oxygen, aren't as
effective in a cabin because the gases are often
dissipated before the fire is extinguished.
The ABC units have the drawback of often ruining
equipment, but because the priority is on safety and the
overall effectiveness of the extinguishing agent, the
American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) recommends
that ABC multi-purpose extinguishers be used in most
instances on boats under 65'. The ABC extinguishers
not only reduces any confusion about what to use and
where (saving time), but also covers the possibility that,
for example, any Class B fire that spreads from the
stove to the curtains (Class A) can be fought with the
same extinguisher.
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Dealing with Fires
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United States Coast Guard Minimum Equipment Requirements

Coast Guard minimum equipment requirements vary with the size of the boat, type of propulsion, whether
operated at night or in periods of reduced visibility, and in some cases, the body of water on which it is used.
Boats carrying passengers for hire have additional equipment requirements. For more details on how many and
what types of equipment you must have aboard your boat, request a copy of the free brochure, "Federal
Requirements for Recreational Boats", from your BoatU.S. Marine Center, the BoatU.S. Foundation, or from the
Coast Guard Consumer Hotline, 800-368-5647.
U.S. Coast Guard Minimum Requirements:
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All Fire Extinguishers must be Coast Guard Approved.

Fire extinguishers must be in serviceable condition.
All fire extinguishers must be READILY AVAILABLE for immediate use.
Boats less than 26 feet in length - At least one 2 pound hand-portable extinguisher
(assuming no fixed-fire extinguishing system is installed). When an approved fire
extinguishing system is installed in machinery spaces, no extinguisher is required. If
construction of the boat does not permit the entrapment of explosive or flammable gases or
vapors, no fire extinguisher is required. (Boat must be under 26 feet long and outboard
powered)
Boats 26 feet to less than 40 feet in length - At least two 2 pound portables, OR at least
one 2.5 pound extinguisher. When an approved fire extinguisher is installed, one less 2pound extinguisher is required.
Boats 40 feet to not more than 65 feet in length - At least three 2 pound portables, or at
least one 2 pound and one 2.5 pound extinguisher. When an approved fixed-fire
extinguisher is installed, one less 2 pounder is required.
For marine use, all required hand-portable fire extinguishers, semi-portable

and fixed fire extinguishing systems must be USCG approved. Click on the link to find out more
about USCG requirements in the "required equipment" section
MARINE FIRE EXTINGUISHER CLASSIFICATION
Classes
B-1
Foam (Gals)
1.25
CO2(Lbs.)
4
Dry. Chem (Lbs.)

5
Halon
2.5
B-2
2.5
15
10
10
Fighting Fires
Fight a fire yourself if and only if:
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It's small and confined to the immediate area where it started. Generally, if you don't get to
it within two minutes, you're too late.
You have a way out and can fight with your back to the exit.
Your extinguisher is rated for the class of fire at hand. (If you bought ABC units, you don't
have to worry about this.) Only Class A fires can be extinguished with water.
You are confident that you can operate your extinguisher effectively: Aim the nozzle at the
base of the fire. Hold the unit upright. Sweep from side to side at the base, or use a series
of short blasts aimed at the base. Check for glowing or smoldering embers and repeat the
procedure if "flashback" occurs.
If you have the slightest doubt about whether you can contain the fire, don't even try. Your
first concern is the safety of the people aboard. Notify someone immediately of your
situation and location before the fire burns through the battery cables or forces you off the
boat.
NOTE: Burning fiberglass is extremely hot and gives off noxious fumes. If fiberglass is burning, get off the boat
immediately.
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Dealing with Fires
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Portable Fire Extinguisher Maintenance:

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Inspect once a month, more often if exposed to weather.

Have the unit weighed annually to verify it's fully charged. Gauges fail often enough that
they cannot always be relied on. Twice a year, remove unit from bracket, turn upside down
and shake to loosen any dry chemical compacted at the bottom.
Recharge or replace after any use. Recharges run $15-25. Inexpensive units can be
replaced for about the same amount.
Never check a unit by partially discharging it. Remaining pressure in canister can leak out
over time.
Have a full maintenance check annually by a qualified technician; see the Yellow Pages
under "Fire Extinguishers." A more economical method: weigh the unit yourself every
year, and replace it every few years.
A Subtle, but Costly, Distinction:

A 42' powerboat was cruising offshore when a crew member reported a strange smell coming from the engine
compartment. The owner grabbed a dry chemical extinguisher from the galley on his way to the enclosed
compartment, opened the access door, and was immediately driven back by smoke. He tried to direct the
stream of dry chemical inside the compartment, but he could not see beyond the smoke to locate the source of
the fire. By then the fumes had also engulfed the main saloon and he was driven back. From the cockpit he saw
flames coming out of the engine compartment's starboard ventilation ducts, so he directed another dry chemical
extinguisher into the duct openings; the fire died momentarily but quickly resumed and grew rapidly. It soon
became apparent that the vessel would have to be abandoned. It burned to the waterline. (Claim 9708770C.)
The same dry chemicals that are so effective in a boat's cabin, aren't much use when a fire breaks out in the
engine compartment. The reason has to do with how the two types of fires are fought.
Accounts of engine fires typically began with a warning - a burning smell, a loss of engine power, or
even smoke trailing after the boat. If someone then opened the engine hatch to check out the trouble,
he or she was usually overwhelmed immediately by flames and smoke.
Fires need two things: fuel and oxygen. Opening an engine
compartment hatch to look for a fire is like throwing gasoline
on hot coals; it fans the fire with a rush of fresh oxygen.
The solution is to leave the hatch closed and fight the fire
either with a fixed extinguisher in the engine compartment or
with a portable extinguisher discharged through a fire port
" (a small opening into the engine compartment) on deck,
which is why dry chemical extinguishers of any class are
inappropriate. Blindly spraying a chemical extinguisher
through a fire port does little or nothing to stop an engine fire because the chemical isn't being directed toward
the base of the flames. A gaseous extinguisher, on the other hand, extinguished the fire by effecting the oxygen
supply. The same extinguisher that wasn't effective in the wide-open spaces of a boat's cabin will be much
more effective in a cramped engine compartment.
For this reason, among others, the ABYC recommends that either a portable gaseous extinguisher be provided
near (outside) the engine compartment or a fixed gaseous extinguishers be used inside the engine
compartment. In the event of a fire, either option eliminates the need to open the hatch.
A Few Words of Praise for Fixed Systems in the Engine Room:

Overall, the most efficient fire protection system is the safest.
The majority of fires begin in the engine compartment for numerous reasons:
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Constant pounding and vibration loosens

wiring terminals and causes chafe, engine
exhausts fail, water pumps fail, fuel leaks--
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Dealing with Fires

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Page 5 of 5
the list goes on.

An automatic system, activated by a rise in temperature, can discharge and extinguish a fire long before
any crew can detect a fire and react with a portable extinguisher, which is even more relevant if you
sometimes cruise short handed.
The automatic system kills the fire earlier and minimizes damage. And since Halon and its replacements
will not damage internal engine parts, it is often possible, after locating and correcting the problem, to
restart the engine(s) after a fire and return to port.
Fire extinguishers are typically the last line of defense when a fire suddenly appears. The first line of
defense is knowing how to prevent fires before they occur.
Restrictions on Halon
For many years, Halon was recognized as the most effective fire fighting agent available. It was quick to
extinguish all classes of fires and was particularly safe and effective for use near expensive electronic
equipment because it left no residual damage. And, it was safe for both occupied and unoccupied spaces. It
was then determined that Halon posed a significant threat to the environment by contributing to the depletion of
the ozone layer, and as of January 1, 1994, no new Halon could be made in the U.S. However, recycled or
previously made Halon is still available for purchase, so you don't have to dispose of an old Halon unit. It only
poses a danger to the ozone if it is used or develops a leak. As long as your unit is in good condition and not
leaking, it's safe to keep on board.
The Halon Alternatives-FE-241 and FM-200
With the phase-out of Halon 1301, the search for a replacement resulted in the development of a number of
"clean" fire suppression agents. Both FE-241 and FM-200 have been shown to be effective, safe for people and
equipment, and environmentally friendly. Although both agents do pose some threat to the environment, it is
considered to be substantially less than that of Halon. Their characteristically rapid extinguishing performance
is considered by most to mitigate the detrimental effects of fire. Both agents' relatively short atmospheric
lifetime (somewhere between 7-42 years) assure minimal direct contribution to global warming. When choosing
which system is best for you, keep in mind that FM-200 is considered to be safe for use in occupied spaces,
whereas, FE-241 is not as safe, but is significantly less expensive. Both require more agent by weight than
Halon 1301 did, so your storage requirements for the extinguishers may increase. Both are Factory Mutual (FM)
and USCG-approved.
3/9/2004
If You Run Aground
Page 1 of 3
GROUNDING
Two kinds of boaters exist, those who have gone aground and those who won't admit to it. Fortunately,
grounding is more often a minor inconvenience than a true danger. Here's what to do if you get stuck in the
mud.
Don't Panic, Assess the Situation
Panicking won't help any grounding situation, no matter how minor. And, hasty reactions can end up causing
further harm to your boat and crew.
While backing off is usually the skipper's first instinct, it may not be the best solution. Instead, try to figure out
what you hit, how deeply you're bedded, and if the hull has been compromised.
Then, check your chart for bottom characteristics and tide tables to determine the next high tide. If you were
traveling slowly, chances are you've just touched bottom lightly.
Soft Grounding
Soft groundings may be described as any grounding that you can
free your own boat, even if it takes a great deal of time, or wind,
wave, or tide action to help you free the boat. Most soft
groundings do not involve major damage, or result in leaks.
Hard Grounding
Just like it sounds, a "hard" grounding can quickly turn your day
upside down. Striking an object such as a piling, reef, or rocks can
destroy your boat, and lead to injury or death.
If you find yourself hard aground, the best thing you can do is stay
with your boat, put on your life jackets, and call for help. Do what
you can to stop leaks. If the boat is in danger of sinking, or lives
are at risk--call the Coast Guard on Channel 16.
Checking for leaks, damage/injuries, and setting the anchor is the first things you should do if you hit bottom.
Try to place the anchor as far from the boat as you can--use your dinghy or tender if you have one.
Anchoring helps keep the boat from being driven further aground and may also provide a means of pulling you
free, if you can "kedge" or pull the boat towards the anchor. Waves, the tide, and wakes from other boats may
lift your boat. Once you've set the anchor, you have several options based on your situation:
BACKING OFF
If you've grounded lightly and hull damage appears to be minimal, you can try to free yourself. Determine what's
on the bottom first. While backing off a soft bottom should do less damage to your hull than backing off rocks,
reverse prop wash may throw sand and mud towards your bow, grounding you even more firmly.
With engines in reverse, slowly and carefully try to back off. If possible, have some one go over the side and
push the boat side-ways in both directions. This may free the boat more quickly than trying to back-up.
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If you are on coral or sea grass, BE CAREFUL! You can cause tremendous damage to
either the grass or coral, and subject your self to stiff penalties and fines for destroying
them. It's best to wait for the tide to take you off, or to call a professional tower for
assistance.
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If You Run Aground

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Page 2 of 3
If you try to back off, monitor your temperature gauges carefully. The engine raw water
intake may suck up dirt and debris and clog or damage your engine's cooling system. Shut
down your engine immediately if you notice a rapid rise in temperature.
If you're lucky, a good Samaritan will offer to give you a yank.
You'll need to determine the wind and current to make sure you
get the best angle on the pull.
WHEN TO STAY
AGROUND
If you've sustained
serious hull damage, you're better staying put than reentering
deep water. Waiting for high tide is a safe, albeit slow way to get
yourself un-stuck. While you're waiting, you could finish those few,
ever-elusive boat chores.
If all else fails and you're really stuck, a commercial tower can help. Unless you're insured, this will cost you
$150 an hour, on average. Hard groundings are generally considered to be salvage operations, and cost
considerably more than the costs of having your boat freed from a soft grounding.
But your safety and security are well worth it, and, you'll have learned a valuable lesson for the next time.
Remember, the Coast Guard will not come out to assist or tow you unless you are in immediate danger.
Instead, they will hail a commercial tower to come to your assistance. For more information on towing and
salvage, visit www.boatus.com/salvage
What To Do In An Emergency
If you or your vessel are in immediate danger, hail the Coast Guard over VHF Channel 16 using the standard
Pan-Pan or Mayday call depending on the urgency of your situation. This may also bring nearby boaters to your
aid.
PWC Operators
As you might imagine, PWC operators face different problems when they run aground. In many cases, an
operator can generally get off the PWC, and push/pull the boat off of "the hard".
PWCs are easier to examine for damage--make this a priority when you ground. Check the hull both inside and
out for cracks or leaks. Also check that nothing has come loose, and do the "sniff" test for gasoline. finally,
check the impeller intake to make sure no debris has entered the jet drive before heading out.
Avoiding Accidents
The best way to minimize damage from a grounding is, of course, NOT TO GROUND YOUR BOAT. Here are
a few tips to help make the topic of grounding not apply to you....
1. Know where you are - Sounds easy enough, but things happen. A weather front or fog
2.
3.
comes through making it difficult to see. You decide to travel to new places. Many things
can put your boat where it doesn't belong. Having an UP TO DATE chart and compass, a
navigation system such as a GPS, and a good dose of common sense will help you avoid
putting your boat on the ground.
Be observant - Part of knowing where you are is to observe the waters that you are on.
Do the buoys you just passed match the ones on the chart? Is the tide high or low? Does
your crew know what to look for and what to avoid?
Be smart - The key to avoiding any unpleasant situation in life is to be careful and to be
prepared. When you are on your boat, always operate in a manner that is safe for the
conditions you are encountering. If you are in a new area, slow down--it will give you time
to orient yourself, and it will give you time to react. Best of all, hitting something at low
speed is usually less painful than hitting something at high speed. Get as much
information as you can about where you are going. What's the weather like? What are the
3/9/2004
If You Run Aground
Page 3 of 3
water conditions? Will there be many boats on the water with you? Knowledge is power and safety.
3/9/2004
Dealing with an Accident
Page 1 of 4
ACCIDENTS
Sometimes things happen on the water no matter how hard you work to prevent an accident. One type of
accident that occurs more frequently than you may realize is capsizing.
CAPSIZING
A boat is "capsized" when it is knocked down so it lies on its side in the water or turns over - a frequent
occurrence among small sailboats that are especially sensitive to sudden changes in the wind. Most small
boats will remain in that position, unless righted, and will float enough to support you.
Having capsized or swamped, it is important to remain calm and conserve energy. After the boat capsizes, you
should immediately do a head count to make sure everyone is with the boat. The general rule is to ensure that
all crew members are wearing PFDs and that they stay with the boat; there may be possibilities of righting it,
and rescuers will be able to find you more easily. Leave the boat only if it is headed toward a hazard.
If you do lose the boat, try and use anything you can to help you stay above water. An empty cooler is a great
floatation aid--even empty soda bottles stuffed in your jacket will help. The higher you are in the water, the
easier it will be to find you. The easier it is for you to float, the easier it will be for you to conserve energy.
If the capsized boat is a small centerboard sailboat, improve your chances of recovery by trying to keep it from
turning over. Get into the water immediately and stand of the centerboard, providing lever action; this is a
technique taught in most basic sailing courses.
If possible, have a crew member attach a life jacket or other flotation device to the end of the mast. If you can,
remove all sails before attempting to right the boat.
If you have lost your boat, or can't right it, your next step is to try and get help. Signaling for help takes a great
deal of restraint--if you do too much you may tire yourself out, or run out of signals such as flares. Try and
make sure that when you do signal, there is a good chance that someone will see or hear you. Having signal
flares, smoke flares, whistles, or a horn (which you should have on your boat) are great, but if all you have is an
upside down boat, the crew and you, your options are limited.
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Take turns being the designated "signaler" who yells at a regular interval, or waves at
passersby.
Try and make everyone as "big" as possible (put on what you can, pull floating debris near
you, etc.), and try to contrast with the background by wearing light clothing (or vice versa)
If you do have appropriate signaling devices, use them when you think they will be seen or
heard!
Getting rescued starts with letting people know where you are going, and when you should be back. Filing a
float plan will ensure that people will be looking for you. Carrying proper signaling devices such as flares or
smoke will help you get found--we've even heard of people painting the hull of their boat florescent orange to
make it visible if they ever capsize. Even the clothes you wear can help you survive longer and get rescued
faster.
Take precautions against swamping and capsizing: Watch that loaded items do not shift from side to side;
guard against too much power or speed on turns, and the wash of large boats. Take waves head on, or fine on
the bow, at low speeds, giving the hull a chance to ride over rather than dive into them.
CREW OVERBOARD
Another type of accident that can occur on the water is having someone fall overboard. Crew-overboard
victims face a number of dangers, including panic, injury during the fall and hypothermia. For those aboard the
boat, quick thinking and coordinated action are essential to an effective rescue.
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Page 2 of 4
Control of the situation is most likely to be maintained by those who have prepared themselves with regular
drills.
However, not many people ever consider how to handle this situation, let alone actually practice MOB
procedures with the crew. Before you even leave the dock there are several things you can do to increase the
chances of you or your crew should someone fall overboard even without practicing MOB procedures.
Have lifejackets equipped with whistles and waterproof flashlights.
For less than ten dollars you can increase someone's chances of quick pick up (especially at night). Better yet,
wear your life jacket! In cold or heavy weather and at night, you are much better off wearing your life jacket.
Practice throwing a life ring or cushion. They are quite a bit harder to throw than you might think! You can
easily practice on your dock to check your range and accuracy-you will probably be very surprised by the
results.
Show everyone where life saving gear is located, and how to use it. Knowing how to use equipment will
save valuable time when it counts.
While on the water your first priority is to not panic. The best way to do that is by practicing your MOB
procedure regularly. Pick a rescue technique such as the "quick-stop" or "figure eight" (described in great detail
in many seamanship books). Acting on instinct and acting immediately will save time and reduce panic for you
and your crew.
HERE ARE SOME TIPS

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Stop the boat's forward progress!

Every second that you move away from the MOB will make it harder for you to get back to
them.
Take a head count to see who fell overboard.
Knowing who (or how many) fell overboard will help you plan the rescue. For instance, if
the largest person on the boat fell overboard, it might take more equipment or people to
bring that person back aboard. Knowing who you are going after will help you decide who
needs to do what in the rescue.
Assign roles to crewmembers.
such as having a lookout, to keep people involved in the rescue.
Get floatation to the person.
Items such as a Lifesling will help keep the swimmer afloat and help you get them into the
boat.
Get the boat next to the MOB.
Placing your boat between the swimmer and the wind (upwind) will give a lee to the person
and will give them flatter seas, but you run the risk of floating over them, which will take
away your ability to steer due to the danger of the propeller.
The better way is to have the swimmer between the boat and the wind by
approaching the swimmer from downwind.
This will increase your ability to maneuver, and will take less time to get the person to the
boat.
Get the person on the boat.
This can be very difficult, especially if the person is hurt, weak, or unconscious. Lifeslings,
swim platforms, ladders, and brute strength are all methods of bringing someone on board.
Practice all and pick the best one for your boat and crew. For further reading on COB
rescue equipment, check out Foundation Findings articles.
Never have anyone go into the water they will just be another person that needs to be rescued. If someone needs to go over to
help a week or injured person, make sure they have floatation and a lifeline secured to
them.
PREVENTING COB ACCIDENTS
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Page 3 of 4
Slipping and Falling

Even in calm, dry weather, decks can be slippery- salt incrustations attract moisture. Plastic decks can be
especially dangerous because they are smooth and do not absorb moisture; the molded anti-skid pattern traps
evaporated salt in the indentations.
In contrast, unfinished teak absorbs moisture and presents one of the best non-skid surfaces, wet or dry. A
number of aggressive non-skid patterns and coatings are uncomfortable for bare feet, remember one rule of
thumb of the careful boater: Wear deck shoes at all times, especially when underway.
Safety Equipment Failure
When equipment is undersized, old or worn, it can be worse than no equipment at all: It provides a false sense
of security. Lifelines, harness tethers, fittings and snaps should be inspected regularly for wear and corrosion,
as well as proof-tested for 3,000 pounds- the shock load of a crew member projected in the lifelines, falling
overboard and dragging in water.
Relieving Over the Side
One of the most common causes of COB and subsequently drowning is a crew member relieving himself over
the side of the boat in a standing position. Avoid this disaster; go below and use the head.
The Importance of COB Drills
Unfortunately, despite all preventive efforts, accidents can still occur. The need for crew-overboard drills cannot
be emphasized enough. Your entire crew should practice the maneuver until recovery is second nature.
Practice often first with a floating cushion, then with a swimmer and another boat standing by. These drills can
often make the difference between a tragedy and a mishap on the water.
With practice and the right equipment, you can safely and quickly recover someone who has fallen overboard.
Man-Over-Board procedures should be practiced at the beginning of every boating season and from time to
time over the course of the boating season. Doing so may save someone's life- even your own!
REPORTING BOATING ACCIDENTS

Should you find yourself involved in an accident, you must follow certain laws.
The operator or owner of any recreational boat is required to file a Boating Accident Report (BAR) if the boat is
involved in an accident that results in:
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Loss of life; or
Personal injury which requires medical treatment beyond first aid; or
Damage to the boat and other property damage of $2,000 or more; or
Complete loss of the boat.
Boat operators are required to report their accident to local authorities in the State where the accident occurred.
Fatal Accidents
Immediate notification is required for fatal accidents. If a person dies or disappears as a result of a recreational
boating accident, the nearest state boating authority must be notified without delay.
The following information must be provided:
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Date, time and exact location of the accident;

Name of each person who died or disappeared;
Number and name of the vessel; and
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Name and address of the owner and operator.
REPORTING TIMELINES
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If a person dies, disappears from the boat, or there are injuries requiring medical treatment
beyond first aid, a formal report must be filed within 48 hours of the accident.
A formal report must be made within 10 days for accidents involving property damage of
$2,000 or more, or complete loss of a vessel.
Note: State requirements for Reporting Boating Accidents may be more stringent than Federal (i.e. some States
require ALL boating accidents to be reported immediately). Check with the Boating Law Administrator in the
State where the accident occurred for proper reporting procedures.
The U.S. Coast Guard Infoline:
If you need further information regarding accident reporting, please call the U.S. Coast Guard Infoline at
(800) 368-5647.
WHAT CAN GO WRONG
Planning ahead means considering what could go wrong, and thinking of how you as the skipper will handle it-or how you crew will handle it if something happens to you!
Prudent skippers not only have a plan that they stick to, they also make sure the crew knows the plan, and can
act accordingly in case of an emergency. When your guests come aboard, it's time to share information with
them about your boat, and about your trip.
The information you need to share in this orientation will depend on your boat and how complicated things are.
Try to establish a list of what can help your crew become better oriented to your boat.
Finally, make sure that someone ashore knows where you are going, and when to expect you back. Here is a
simple float plan, provided to help you determine what information is helpful to rescue personnel. Leave your
float plan with a responsible relative or friend - don't file your float plan with the Coast Guard! STICK TO
YOUR PLAN!
3/9/2004
Carbon Monoxide
Page 1 of 3
THE RISK OF CARBON MONOXIDE

A couple in Michigan arrived at their boat last October, started the gas generator, turned on the boat's electric
heater, and set to work on a few end of the season projects. While they were working, carbon monoxide (CO)
from the gas generator began creeping quietly into the main saloon somewhere down in the bilge.
Without a CO alarm, there was no way that the couple could have been aware-or even had the tiniest hint - that
the deadly gas was mixing with the oxygen in the boat's cabin. CO is colorless and odorless, and it produces
initial symptoms-drowsiness, headaches, nausea, or dizziness--that aren't especially alarming.
The unsuspecting couple soon "fell asleep," and would have died had it not been for the early arrival-almost two
hours early-of their son. He quickly shut off the generator, opened ports, and phoned the rescue squad. They
were extremely lucky; most CO claims have a much sadder outcome.
An investigation afterward concluded that the CO had come from a drain plug in the generator's muffler that had
worked loose and lay in the bilge. The report also noted the lack of a CO detector aboard, which wasn't a
surprise.
Of a dozen or so recent claims for CO fatalities or near fatalities in a boat's cabin, the lack of a CO detector is
the only thing that all of them had in common.
CO can enter a cabin from many different sources, according to the claim files: from a hot water heater; from a
galley stove; from the "station wagon effect"-exhaust from the boat's exhaust; from a generator; and even from
other nearby boats. There have also been several injuries from people swimming under swim platforms when
an engine or generator was being operated.
Certainly it is important to recognize the symptoms of CO poisoning: headaches, drowsiness, and nausea. With
most of the BoatU.S. claims, one or more of these symptoms were present, but victims did not recognize the
danger they were in.
It is also advisable to inspect the engine and generator for leaks in the exhaust system and to avoid, or try to
avoid, the many different situations that could bring CO into a boat's cabin.
That isn't easy. Besides the station wagon effect, accidents have been traced to wind direction, proximity to a
dock or seawall, boats rafted together, an open hatch or port, a canvas cover, or combination of several
causes.
It isn't unusual after an accident, for an inspection to spend many hours, or even days, trying to ascertain how
CO got into a boat's cabin.
What's Wrong With This Picture? Click Here

While guarding against the many possible sources of CO is certainly advisable, the most reliable safeguard is a
CO detector. As of August 1, 1998 the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), the organization that writes
the voluntary standards for recreational boats, began recommending that all boats with enclosed
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Carbon Monoxide
Page 2 of 3
accommodation areas and a gasoline generator or a gasoline inboard propulsion engine have a CO detector
installed.
(Diesel engines are not included because they are much less likely to produce deadly levels of CO.) The
recommendation that CO detectors be installed on new boats is great news for anyone who will be buying a
new boat, but what about boats built before August 1998?
INSTALLING A CO DETECTOR: A FEW CONSIDERATIONS

One reason that ABYC may have been slow to recommend the use of CO detectors may be their reputation in
the past for emitting unnerving false alarms periodically. You could almost count on a CO detector made prior
to 1992, the older "single point" alarms, to sound whenever they detected even the slightest trace of CO.
Since a whiff or two of CO is likely to drift into a cabin several times a day, the frequent alarms were an ongoing
nuisance. After 1992, however, manufacturers began making more technically advanced units that use "timeweighted averaging" to greatly reduce the number of alarms.
By averaging the CO over a period of a few minutes, these newer alarms will not sound unless they repeatedly
detect CO.
Some of the newer units can even do things like disengage the generator if CO is detected. A proper marine
CO detector, incidentally, will have the UL 1524 marine mark, which means it was tested by Underwriters
Laboratories standard 1524.
ABYC does not say where on the boat a CO detector should be located. The gas, which is about the same
weight as oxygen, tends to dissipate evenly in an area and isn't any more likely to be found up near the ceiling
or down by the cabin sole.
As a practical matter, placing an alarm at eye level allows you to easily monitor any meters or warning lights on
a unit.
Sleeping areas, main saloons, an enclosed fly-bridge, and anywhere else people spend time are candidates for
a CO detector. Areas that should be avoided include near hatches or doors where fresh air might distort
readings. Dead air spaces-corners-should also be avoided.
TAKING CO DETECTORS SERIOUSLY

While the older alarms were often a nuisance, the improved technology means that when a newer alarm
sounds it should be investigated.
CO that drifts in and out of a cabin can be dangerous, since the effects of CO are cumulative and can build up
gradually in a person's bloodstream over hours or even days before it reaches critical levels.
This is true even if when the person breathes fresh air periodically; the CO remains in the bloodstream. How
quickly the CO builds up is a factor of the concentration of the gas being inhaled (measured in parts per million
[PPM]) and the duration of the exposure.
The half-life of CO is approximately five hours, which means that it takes five hours for the level of CO in the
blood to drop to half its level when exposure was terminated.
There is also some recent research challenges traditional thinking that the effects of CO poisoning are
transitory. Studying 96 victims for one year beyond their exposure, researchers found over 25% showed
evidence of brain damage 12 months after exposure. These long-term CO injuries can include apathy, memory
loss, inattention, and depression.
How Much CO is Too Much? (In Parts Per Million (PPM)

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200 PPM Slight headaches within two to three hours.

400 PPM Frontal headaches within one to two hours.
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Carbon Monoxide
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800 PPM Dizziness, nausea, and convulsions within 45 minutes. Insensible within two
hours.
1,600 PPM Headache. Dizziness and nausea within 20 minutes. Death within 30 minutes.
3,200 PPM Headache and dizziness within five minutes. Death within 30 minutes.
6,400 PPM Headache and dizziness within one to two minutes. Death in less than 15
minutes.
12,800 PPM Death in less than three minutes.
CO Concentration at the Source

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Gasoline Engine 10,000 - 100,000 PPM

Diesel Engine 1,000 PPM
WHAT'S WRONG WITH THIS PICTURE?

Shortly after she bought her 33' Egg Harbor, Terri Parrow, Vice President of Internet
Operations at BoatU.S., took an action photograph of the boat as it went zooming
by near Solomon's Island, Maryland.
The photo (left) turned out well, with a blue sky, puffy clouds, and lots of exciting
spray.
The more she studied the photograph, though, the more it seemed that something was wrong. Then it dawned
on her that the ship's ensign--the flag on the stern--is flapping forward, toward the two people on the flying
bridge, Aren't flags supposed to point aft?
The canvas on the fly-bridge had just been added and when the flaps were closed exhaust from the boat's twin
340 hp gasoline engines was being sucked back into the cabin and onto the fly-bridge (the "station wagon
effect). After seeing the photo, Terri made some changes.
First, she cruises with the forward canvas flaps and hatch on the foredeck opened slightly to keep fresh air
flowing throughout the fly-bridge and cabin. And she also replaced one the boat's two CO detectors, which had
been inoperable.
These two simple changes have saved her a lot of potential headaches, or worse, whenever the boat is
underway.
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WHY IS BOATING EDUCATION FOR HUNTERS AND ANGLERS SO IMPORTANT?

Consider these statistics:
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One out of three people who died on the water died while fishing, hunting or on the way to
fish and hunt.
47% of sportsmen did not even have a life jacket on board.
70% of hunters who died in boating accidents fell overboard as a result of their boat being
improperly loaded, or due to moving around the boat unsafely.
According to the National Rifle Association, more hunters die

each year from water-related accidents than from gunshot wounds.
91% of sportsmen who died in boating accidents between 19952000 were not wearing a life jacket. Compared with the general
boating fatality population, sportsmen were far more likely to have
not worn a life jacket than all other boaters - a difference that might
have saved their lives.
Yearly Fatalities of Boaters, 1995-2000:

Whats the typical sportsman boating fatality?
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88% fatalities are from drowning.

40% of fatalities come from vessel capsizing.
Cold water and strong current were reported in a high percentage of accidents.
Most accidents happen in open motorboats 16 feet or less.
Men ages 30-50 were the most common victims.
SPECIAL ISSUES
Most hunting and angling takes place on boats that are less than 16 feet long, the length of boat that has the
dubious distinction of being involved in the lions share of boating fatalities.
Boats under 16 feet often have flat bottoms or semi-v hulls and are known for their instability. Its no surprise
then that the primary causes of hunting and fishing accidents on the water are capsizing, falls overboard and
flooding or swamping.
This isnt to say hunters and anglers should stop using small boats. What it says is that they should take
precautions in small boats, precautions like correctly loading the boat and using caution while moving about the
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boat and landing fish or fowl. Above all, a sportsman should wear his life jacket.
LOADING THE BOAT

Correctly loading a small boat starts from your very first step onboard.
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First of all, step gently into the center of boat; avoid stepping on the sides (called gunnels)
or the seats, or jumping onboard.
Secondly, if you have a lot of gear, hand the gear to someone on the boat, or leave it on
the pier and reach for it from the boat. Boarding a boat with a handful of equipment gives
you extra weight and instability, and leaves you without a hand to steady yourself.
Also, it is important to hold on to something whenever boarding or moving around the boat,
even if you feel you are stable. You never know when another boats wake, someone else
in the boat losing their balance, or your dogs sudden movement can cause a chain of
events that might leave you in the water, or in the bottom of the boat with an injury.
When loading gear:

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It is important to distribute the weight evenly around the boat, making sure not to overload.
Take special care not to load too much in the back (stern), since once the boat picks up
speed, the stern will go lower in the water and is prone to swamping.
Additionally, it is important to keep the center of gravity low in the boat. Piling gear high can
raise the center of gravity and can cause the boat to tip over unexpectedly. This same rule
goes for the people in the boat, which is why you should avoid standing in small boats.
Make sure your anchor and dock lines are properly stowed to avoid tripping.
And as you are loading, be sure you have brought along a life jacket for each person
aboardits the law. Better yet, have everyone in your group put on the life jackets before
even leaving the dock.
To avoid overloading the boat, check the vessels capacity plate:
The capacity plate states the total amount of weight (including people, gear and motor) the boat is made to
hold. If your boat does not have a capacity plate, the U.S. Coast Guard suggests the following basic guide.
Be sure to take into consideration the weight of the gear youve brought along.
To put this into perspective, if you have an 18 foot boat, you can expect to be able to carry 900 pounds of
motor, gear, and people. If the outboard weighs 200 pounds, the fuel and gear weigh another 200 pounds, you
can realistically only take 2 other people with you on the boat--maybe just one if everyone weighs over 200
pounds or the weather is rough...
MOVING ABOUT THE BOAT

Once in the boat, its a good idea for all passengers to avoid standing. Small boats can easily become unstable,
and when people and/or dogs are sharing the space, the danger of capsizing increases.
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Hunters should stay seated while shooting so they can brace themselves for the guns recoil.
Standing up in an unstable boat will raise the center of gravity and only make the boat less
predictable.
When setting decoys, be careful not to lean too far over the sides of the boat.
Anglers should stay in a seated position during casting so as not to lose their balance. A
jonboat is a good example of a boat that is not made for standing.
Some boats, like bass boats, are specially designed and weighted for standing, just be sure to
keep your legs spread for stability, lean against a seat where possible, and wear a life jacket.
Landing Fish or Fowl is one of the most critical moments in your boat is when you try to retrieve
your fish or waterfowl. Your blood is pumping, your heart is racing, and everyone in the boat is
leaning over to see what youve got.
Thats the moment that the weight of the boat can change suddenly, and before you know it,
youre all wet.
The first thing to remember is just common sense: keep your weight in the center of the boat. If youre
reeling in a fish, try to do it in a seated position and use a landing net to get the fish into the boat. Hunters can
also use a landing net or boat hook to avoid leaning too far over the side of the boat to retrieve birds and
decoys.
3/9/2004
Water Skiing and Diving
Page 1 of 3
WATER SKI SAFETY

Water skiing is a great way to have fun while
enjoying boating. That said, its not an activity
to be undertaken without preparation. It
requires some special skills by the boat
operator and the skier, an understanding of
hand signals, and demands a lot of attention to
safety by both parties.
As the captain of the boat, its your
responsibility to ensure the safety of your skier,
so before hitting the water, take a couple of
minutes to set down some rules with the skier
and the other passengers in the boat. Review
water skiing hand signals (see list below), plan
where youll go once the skier is behind the
boat, and discuss what is expected of everyone on board. Below are some guidelines that will help make your
next water skiing trip safe and enjoyable!
Basic Rules of Waterskiing Safety and Courtesy
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Do wear a life jacket while operating the boat and while skiing. The skier should wear a
U.S. Coast Guard approved life jacket that has a high impact rating and is designed for
water skiing.
Do have an observer on board whose only job is to watch the skier, receive signals and
alert the boat operator if the skier falls.
Do be familiar with the water skiing area so you can avoid areas of shallow water,
submerged obstructions and other dangerous situations. Also, stay clear of beaches and
swimming areas, and do not purposely spray other boats or swimmers.
Do go over hand signals with the skier before he or she is in the water.
Do use a tow rope that is at least 75 feet long.
Do give a wide berth to fishermen and slower moving crafts like canoes, kayaks and
sailboats.
Dont ski when it is getting dark or is night. It is hard for the boat operator, skiers and other
boats to see.
Dont use drugs or alcohol while operating the boat or water skiing. The substances impair
good judgment and coordination.
Don't ski within 300 feet of another vessel, or 100 feet of the shore, a dock, or swim area.
10 Steps to Water Skiing Success

Once you have gone over rules and signals with your skier, its time to hit the water.
1. The water skier should enter the water and move away from the boat before the boats
2.
3.
4.
engine is started. When starting the engine, the boat operator should make sure no one in
the water is near the propeller.
Wait for the skier to signal that he or she is ready to go. You can use verbal or hand
signals.
Move the boat forward slowly until the ski line is taught. When the skier gives a thumbs up
(power up) signal, take off in a straight line with enough power to raise the skier out of the
water. Once the skier is up, adjust your speed based on the skiers signals.
In areas where water skiing is common, a traffic pattern may already be established. Pay
attention to what the other boaters are doing and dont jeopardize your skiers safety by
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Page 2 of 3
pulling in front of other boats.
5. The skier should never wrap any part of the tow line around his or her body. Its also a
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
good idea to take off all jewelry and secure life jacket straps that might become loose in the
wind and whip at the skier.
The skier should stay aware of surroundings and potential hazards. As soon as falling, the
skier should look behind to assess if there is a danger of being run over. If the situation
seems safe, he or she should give the OK sign to let the boat know there are no injuries.
After falling, the skier should hold a ski up out of the water while waiting to be retrieved,
and if necessary waves his or her arms.
The boat should circle the skier slowly to either return the tow line or pick up the skier. In
some states, the boat must fly a skier down flag while retrieving a skier.
When approaching a skier, always keep the skier in view and on the operators side of the
boat.
Always shut off the engine before allowing the skier to board the boat. Once the skier is
onboard, retrieve the towline.
Note to Boats near Skiers

Its inevitable that some boats towing skiers will get closer to your boat than you might like. In areas where
water skiing is common its necessary to keep a sharp eye out for skiers at all times.
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Give water skiers a wide berth. Try to stay at least 100 feet away from each side of a skier,
as he or she may not know your boat is there.
Do not approach a skier too close from the rear. If he or she falls you may not have time to
stop or alter your course.
Avoid driving your boat directly into the sun if it is making it difficult to see other boats and
skiers. It may be necessary to zig-zag slightly to avoid the direct glare of the sun.
Ski Signals
Communication becomes vital when youre the skier at the end of a 75 foot rope behind towed behind a
motorboat! Thats why these hand signals for skiers are so important.
BASIC SIGNALS
Speed up the boat: Thumb up.
Slow down the boat: Thumb down.
Cut Motor/Stop (also used by driver or observer): Slashing motion over the
neck.
Turn the boat (also used by driver): Circle motion with arms over-head then
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Page 3 of 3
point in desired direction.

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Return to dock: Pat on the head.
OK or signal understood: OK signal with hand.
Skier OK after falling: Hands clasped over head.
3/9/2004
Swimming and Snorkeling
Page 1 of 2
SWIMMING AND DIVING NEAR BOATS

Theres nothing like swimming from the back of your boat on a hot summer day. But swimming from your boat
isnt nearly as predicable as swimming in your pool. Boats may anchor in deep water and then, seconds later--a
puff of wind or current-- and the terrain beneath the boat is altogether different. There may be rocks lurking just
below the surface, currents that can carry a swimmer away, or boats that come too close. To make sure you
and your crew stay safe while swimming from your boat, there are a few things you need to know:
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Swimming from your boat can be great, but theres a time and place for it. Never, ever
swim in a marked channel, even if there are no boats around. You never know when a boat
with limited maneuvering abilities will come along.
Swimming in marinas should also be avoided. Marinas are made for boats to come and go;
they are no place for swimmers. In addition to the risk being run over, boats that are
plugged into AC shore power can sometimes leak electricity into the water, either from the
boat or from the marinas electrical systems, putting swimmers at considerable risk.
Illegal dumping of holding tanks also occurs in some marinas, further making them
unpleasant swimming holes.
Dont swim in areas where there are strong currents or undertow.
Enter the water gradually, never dive. Under a boat, the terrain can be uneven, and landing
on a rock or shallow spot is a real risk. Even if youre going back to a familiar spot,
droughts and currents can change bottom characteristics.
Never leave the boats engine running while swimmers are in the water. Propellers can be
deadly, and so can carbon monoxide (CO) fumes. Even a running generator can cause CO
fumes to accumulate near the boat, which can be fatal to swimmers!
When swimming from a boat, wear a life jacket for flotation or have flotation devices in the
water for easy access by swimmers. Running a line off the back of your boat with a flotation
ring or throwable float can also be useful.
Make sure if you get off the boat, theres an easy way to get back on. Not all boats are
easy on, easy off.
Swim-proofing Your Swim Platform

If you have a swim platform, take a look at the cleats or other
hardware attached to it that could cause injury if a person slips and
falls on it.
There are several things you can do to make swimming from a
platform - molded or teak - safer.
First, you can improve the non-skid by using a nonskid tape, which
is inexpensive and much safer than the molded-in patterns. You can
consider moving the cleats (or having a professional do the job) so
that they are out of harms way.
It might also be possible to install a pop-up cleat that folds out of the
way when its not being used. As an alternative, you could
improvise a cover using something like a sailboat spreader boot or
old tennis balls - anything that might soften the edges of the cleat, should a swimmer fall.
(photo by Bob Grieser)
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Snorkeling is great fun, but its easy to get so engaged in looking below the surface that you forget to look
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Swimming and Snorkeling
Page 2 of 2
above! Many of the above swimming rules apply to snorkeling, but with a little extra caution thrown it.
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Practice snorkeling in a pool first. Breathing through a tube may seem easy, but for some
people it takes some practice. Its easy to become flustered or fatigued when you are in the
ocean and confused about your equipment.
Snorkeling can be very distracting, so snorkelers must make an effort to look up every few
moments to gauge their position and make sure they havent strayed too far from the boat,
or into a channel.
In popular snorkeling spots, there can be a lot of boats coming and going. Wear bright
colors, or better yet a bright life jacket or snorkeling vest to make yourself more visible.
Scuba Diving is also a popular sport which requires significant skill and attention to safety. Two of the most
essential pieces of equipment for divers, aside from their diving gear, are two identifying flags: the blue and
white Alpha flag and red and white diver down flag.
The Alpha flag signifies restricted ability to maneuver and must be flown from the boat
hosting divers or snorkelers.
This is the only flag that is required by federal law to be flown by boats mothering diver or
snorkelers, and a rigid replica of it no less than 1 meter (3.3 feet) high must visible to other
boats. At night, red over white over red 360 degree lights must be displayed.
The second flag, called the Diver Down flag, is probably more recognizable to most
boaters. This flag is flown from a float in the water where people are engaged in diving
activities.
It is not required by federal law to be displayed, however some states do require
it. This flag will help other boaters know there are divers beneath the water who
could immerge at any time.
Other boats that see these flags displayed should give the area a wide berth. Laws vary from state to state on
how much distance a boater must give an Alpha flag or diver down flag; in some states it could be 300 feet, in
others 100 feet. While boating anywhere near a diver down flag, keep a lookout for bubbles breaking the
surface which could indicate divers who have strayed away from their boat.
3/9/2004
Personal Water Craft
Page 1 of 7
RECENT HISTORY
Personal Water Craft (PWC) have become a major force in boating over the last few years, now accounting for
over 1/3 of new boat sales annually. There are about one MILLION PWC in use today!
That is a huge amount of boats, and unfortunately there is an equal amount of misunderstanding to go along
with them. Did you know that a PWC was even considered a boat? Many people dont, and think of them more
as toys that require no training or knowledge of how they work. To start, think of the terms used for a boat - they
will be the same for a PWC.
When PWC first came on the market, they were
generally designed for only one person and were
designed for high maneuverability. They were
generally only available as stand-up models, and had
few features.
Over the last several years, two, three and even four
seat models have become the top sellers. These craft
are much more substantial than earlier craft, and are
even capable of pulling a water skier. Today's models
generally come with a good deal of storage space for gear, and have a very traditional "dashboard" with
gauges. Remember, your PWC operator's manual will tell you the specifics of your boat, including tips on safe
operation, and how many people you can safely carry.
WHAT THEY ARE
Personal Water Craft are considered by the Coast Guard to be
Class A inboard motor vessels and as such must adhere to the
same Coast Guard regulations and standards as any other
powerboats in this category, such as they must have a fire
extinguisher on board, and must have appropriate signaling
devices.
They are also subject to USCG manufacturing and load
capacity standards . They must be registered with the state,
and must also obey the Nautical Rules of the Road. Even
though PWC are considered to be boats, there are a few
differences that you need to know.
Virtually no PWC have running lights as all manufacturers
recommend that they only be used during daylight. In fact,
many states ban the use of PWC at night. Many states require
that Personal Floatation Devices be worn at all times while on
a PWC. Many states regulate the operation of personal watercraft within their borders by prohibiting them from
specified lakes and boating areas, or by placing geographic restrictions on their use.
Some states require an adult to be on board when a minor is operating the craft, or may require completion of a
boating safety course before a minor can legally operate a PWC. States may also regulate speed limits, noise
limits, hours of operation, and distance from other boats or objects that you may operate your PWC.
For more information about boating laws in your state, click here.
HOW THEY WORK
PWCs are operated by two-cycle inboard gasoline engines that drive a jet water pump. Water is taken in
through a water pick up on the bottom of the PWC, drawn into an internal propeller (an impeller) that creates a
jet of high pressure water which exits through a nozzle on the back of the PWC.
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Page 2 of 7
There is also a moveable "gate" that can be dropped over the nozzle to provide reverse thrust on some models.
Be careful, this is not designed to be used to stop a PWC operating at a high speed!
PWC are designed to be extremely maneuverable. They are built for quick, sharp turns, low-radius circling,
and rapid acceleration. However, they are only maneuverable with the throttle engaged--TO MAINTAIN
STEERAGE, YOU MUST APPLY THROTTLE! For instance, the best way to avoid hitting an object is NOT to
slow down, rather, you should apply throttle and steer away to avoid impact.
Most models have an automatic cut-off lanyard (which must be
attached to the operators wrist or life jacket at all times) or selfcircling feature to prevent a PWC from going far from a driver who
has fallen off.
PWC are self-righting if you fall off. Dont abandon your vessel if
it overturns, simply turn it over, climb on, start it up and continue
on your trip. To re-board a jet ski, approach the rear of the craft,
pull yourself up into a kneeling position and take your seat. This
sounds easier than it is--it is often quite difficult to re-board a PWC.
Practice boarding your PWC in a calm, shallow area with your
friends or family. If you have difficulty getting back on a PWC
from the water, you should most likely avoid using your PWC in
areas where there is a strong current or high waves. There are
"ladders" available to help you climb back on--definitely a
worthwhile investment. Finally, don't forget to re-attach your cut-off
lanyard!
When operating a PWC, keep clear of shallow water (less than two feet deep) or beds of sea grass or other
vegetation. Since a PWC sucks water in to power its water jet, it is best not to operate in these waters. This will
help keep dirt and debris from fouling the impeller, which could lead to power loss or damage to your PWC.
OPERATIONAL REQUIREMENTS
As Personal Water Craft are considered to be type "A" motor craft, they must adhere to certain Coast Guard
requirements as follows:
1. Your PWC must be equipped with a marine-rated fire extinguisher and emergency
signaling devices
2. All PWC must be registered according to state regulations, and have a registration number
displayed. Follow state guidelines for specific regulations.
3. You must adhere to the manufacturer's listed capacity limits for people and equipment.
4. Personal Floatation Devices must be worn by all riders. Chose a properly fitting, Coast
Guard approved PFD and WEAR IT!
Other gear you should consider:
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EYE PROTECTION - water spray can greatly affect your vision. Goggles or wrap around
glasses offer the best protection.
FOOT PROTECTION - Shoes or sandals will protect your feet and give you added traction.
GLOVES - Gloves will allow you to keep a tight grip on wet controls.
WET SUITS - In colder water a wet suit will provide extra comfort by keeping you warm.
Nettle suits will protect you from stinging nettles in the summer.
HELMET - Many PWC accidents include head and neck injuries. Wearing a helmet and a
high impact PFD with a neck brace will greatly reduce the effects of a high speed impact.
PRE-RIDE INSPECTION
It is always a great idea to check your watercraft prior to every outing. This will allow you to make sure that your
watercraft is in top operating condition. Some things to check are:
1. Battery - Make sure that your battery is fully charged, and all electrical wires are properly
connected, tight, and not frayed.
2. Controls - Make sure all operating controls are working properly - steering controls, stop
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
button, lanyard cut-off, and throttle.

Drain Plug - drain your bilge - and be sure your plug is properly secured before launching.
Engine - Check your engine - fluid levels, hose connections, oil level/leaks, and finally
make sure the engine compartment cover is properly secured.
Fuel - Make sure that you don't have fuel leaks, and fill the tank. Plan on using 1/3 of your
gas to get there, 1/3 to get back, and keep 1/3 as a reserve. Many PWC are equipped with
a fuel selector or reserve switch to help you avoid running out of fuel. If you run out of fuel,
switch the tank setting to "reserve" and go to the dock. Don't forget to reset the switch
once you've filled up again!
Hull - Check the outside of your PWC--check for hull damage, check the jet pump cover
and inlet for damage/fit, and secure the seats.
Protection - A properly fitting life jacket, gloves, wetsuit, eye, head and foot gear, and a
helmet will all help protect you from injury.
Safety Gear - Make sure you have the required safety equipment - a fire extinguisher,
signaling device(s) and all other legally required equipment. It's also good idea to have an
anchor, extra line, a boarding ladder, drinking water, and suntan lotion.
PWC'S AND THE ENVIRONMENT

Pollution
1. Refuel on land to reduce any chances of spilling oil or gas into the water.
2. Slow down when filling the tank, don't over-fill, catch any accidental spills with an absorbent
3.
pad, and dispose of it properly.

Check and clean your engine well away from shorelines. Water and oil don't mix and can
harm the water's delicate micro-organisms as well as the animals who feed on them,
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potentially upsetting the entire food chain.

Turbidity
1. In shallow waters, boats may stir up the bottom, suspending sediments which limit light
penetration and depleting oxygen. This can affect fish and bird feeding. To avoid this effect,
ride in main channels, and limit riding in shallow water.
2. When it is necessary to ride in shallow water, keep watercraft at an idle speed. In coastal
areas be aware of low tide. The waters may be substantially more shallow at these times
revealing sea grass beds and other delicate vegetation.
Vegetation
Even though PWC don't have an exposed propeller, you must take caution if you operate near
shore.
Vegetation such as sea grasses are delicate nursery grounds where many of the fish in our
waters originate.
Weeds, grasses and other plant life are not good for your PWC. Ingestion of these into your craft
may cause engine or pump problems, and reduce performance. Stay Away!
When possible, operate well away from shore
because, typically, wildlife inhabit the vegetation
along the shore's edge. The least amount of
disturbance is in the marked channels or the
deeper areas of a lake or river. If at all possible,
stay in main channels.
Excessive boat wakes may contribute to shoreline
erosion, especially in narrow streams and inlets.
Erosion is a concern for all shorelines including
rivers, lakes, and oceans.
The slow destruction of shorelines affects the
habitats of plants and animals. Near the shore
avoid high speeds which create wakes and
observe posted no wake zones.
Noise
Be aware that the noise and movements of boats may disturb bird populations. Steer clear of posted bird
nesting areas.
Many migratory birds are easily stressed and especially vulnerable during their migration period. Birds will
typically fly away from disturbing noises and any unnecessary expenditure of energy can harm a feeding or
resting bird.
Bird rookeries are especially vulnerable to noise from boats, including personal watercraft. Nesting birds may fly
from the nest exposing unprotected eggs and hatchlings to the sun's heat or predators.
Wildlife Harassment
Do not harass wildlife by chasing or interrupting feeding, nesting, or resting. Harassment is defined as any
action that may cause an animal to deviate from its normal behavior. It is illegal and can unduly stress wildlife.
Mammals such as sea otters, sea lions, manatees and whales can be injured from direct impact by boats
traveling at high speeds. Ride at controlled speeds so you can see any animals ahead of you. Avoid area of
high animal population. If you hit an animal report it to your local wildlife commission. There may be a chance to
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save its life.

DOCKING / BEACHING
One of the great features of having a jet drive is the ability to easily
beach your PWC.
When docking or beaching, look for evidence of turtles, birds, alligators,
manatees, and other animals along shore. Avoid docking or beaching
where plants such as reeds, grasses and mangroves are located.
These plants are essential to the ecosystem because they control
erosion and provide a nursery ground for small animals vital to the food
chain, such as crustaceans, mollusks, and small fish.
ENDANGERED SPECIES
Many species of plants and animals are threatened with
extinction due to habitat loss. The Endangered Species
Act of 1973 was created to protect these animals. It is
illegal to trade, kill, hunt, collect, harass, harm, pursue,
shoot, trap, wound or capture species designated as
endangered, or in danger of extinction, such as
threatened, rare, and species of concern. The U.S. Fish
and Wildlife Service is responsible for listing the
hundreds of species in decline.
Be aware of the endangered or threatened species
found in your riding area that are protected by a "safe
haven".
These protect them from human development, and creates an environment where they are allowed to survive
and flourish.
Here are just a few endangered animals you might encounter while riding: brown pelican, manatee, southern
sea otter, wood, stork, American alligator and whales.
Special Habitats
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Mangroves are a distinctive type of tree that have adapted to living in or near saltwater.
There are four types of Mangrove trees, two of which are threatened with extinction. Many
shore birds such as pelicans and roseate spoonbills nest in mangrove forests and islands.
Mangroves shelter other marine life, control erosion and filter runoff. They also build up the
shoreline and serve as a buffer that protects the land from storms and winds.
Don't operate in un-marked mangrove channels, you're disturbing mangroves, birds, and
other animals who reside in this area.
Coral is a living organism which provides a safe haven for hundreds of marine creatures.
This firm, yet fragile species is vulnerable to the effects of human intrusion. If you are riding
near coral, do not use an anchor, and be careful when diving to avoid coming in contact
with these delicate organisms.
Marine Plant Life

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Kelp forests support a lush underwater community teeming with fish, invertebrates, sea
urchins and sea otters. Found close to shore, the kelp canopy covers the surface of the
water and extends down, sometimes thousands of feet, to the bottom of the ocean floor. In
warm months, this seaweed can grow as much as a foot a day.
Sea grasses are nursery grounds normally found in protected waters called estuaries
where fresh water and salt water meet. Most of the world's fish have their beginnings in
estuaries and their associated sea grass habitat. Sea grasses are very delicate and their
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destruction can lead to degradation to the entire marine cycle.

As a responsible PWC operator, stay away from both of these environmentally sensitive
areas.
PWC ETIQUETTE
With the rapid rise in the number of personal water craft, there have been many complaints about their use and
misuse. Many people would love to see them outlawed altogether, and there are currently many local
jurisdictions that are attempting just that.
With common sense and common courtesy, both PWC users and traditional boaters can coexist and enjoy their
time on the water. Following some simple operating procedures can help eliminate the majority of complaints
against PWC.
Noise is probably the number one complaint about PWC use. Though manufacturers are constantly developing
quieter motor and exhaust systems (PWC motors all operate within legal limits for noise) there are many
complaints about noise.
The best way to avoid noise complaints is to follow the Rules of the Road and also to avoid operating at high
speed near the shoreline and other boaters. Riding through surf and boat wakes is not only dangerous, but in
many states it is illegal to do either.
Be aware of what is around you. The leading cause of PWC accidents is striking an object. (usually another
PWC) If you are operating your PWC in a congested area, slow down and look at what the boats around you
are doing. To avoid being struck yourself, always look for other boats before making sharp or sudden turns.
Because PWC are so small and maneuverable it is best to always give the other boats the right of way. Larger
boats may not see you, and may not be able to get out of your way in time to avoid contact. Keeping a proper
lookout can save your life!
If you lend your PWC to a friend, make sure they know the Rules of the Road and how to operate your PWC. A
large portion of PWC accidents occur with rental PWCs or when people other than the owner are operating the
vessel.
Dont operate close to wildlife or aquatic vegetation. Even though PWCs probably have less of an impact on
nature than many traditional boats, it is prudent to avoid boating in areas that could be harmful to the
environment. Avoiding vegetation and debris will also spare your delicate propulsion machinery from
unnecessary damage.
Obey the law! If all PWC users faithfully obeyed the law, there would be far fewer complaints, and consequently
far fewer usage restrictions. PWC operators control their own destiny regarding new restrictions.
The PWC industry itself is a leader in responsible use of their products. The Personal Watercraft Industry
Association has created a code of ethics for PWC users that really is valuable for all boaters.
PERSONAL WATERCRAFT CODE OF ETHICS
1.
I will respect the rights of all users of the recreational waterways, both on public waters
and on adjacent private property.
2.
I will be considerate at the launch ramps and docks. I will get on and off the ramps
quickly and not delay others.
I will follow the navigation rules of the road around all other vessels. I will learn and
observe my states rules on wake jumping.
3.
I will give all fishing, anchored, or drifting vessels plenty of room.
4.
I will always operate at headway speed in "no wake" zones.
5.
When approaching the shore, I will be especially aware of swimmers and other craft
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near the shore.

6.
I will not disturb wildlife. I will avoid areas posted for the protection of wildlife.
7.
I will not litter the shore side and I will be careful with my fuel.
8.
I realize that my travel speed should be determined by my equipment, ability, weather

and wave conditions, and especially other vessel traffic. In case of emergency, I will
volunteer assistance.
9.
I will not interfere with or harass others. I realize that people judge all personal
watercraft by my actions.
10. I will pay close attention to the noise my vessel may make and be aware of how others
on boats and on shore react to that noise.
YOU CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE
We all have a duty to the next generation to protect our bountiful natural resources. Take a moment to learn
what the environmental concerns are in your riding area.
If you're interested in observing wildlife while riding, keep an idle speed to reduce wake, noise and turbidity
(stirring up the bottom). Know your riding area for the safety of the environment, for your own protection, and
for your personal watercraft's protection.
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Inland Boating
Page 1 of 4
For many boaters, exploring different cruising grounds means towing a boat to a new lake or river. Many times,
both sides of the shore are visible, and navigation consists of locating a familiar landmark.
Sounds easy, right? Think again, as inland cruising has many different rules for operating your boat, and many
hazards that you might not be aware of without the "local" knowledge of the water. So how do you get that
information?
Before you go out on any body of water, you should try and get a chart. This will give you a good idea of areas
to stay away from. More accurate information should be obtained by looking at local boating or fishing guides,
the USCG "Notice to Mariners", and most importantly, you should talk with local boaters. Talking with people at
the bait shop, the launch ramp, or the marina will help you find out the information that you won't get on a chart
- how the current is running after the rains, how low the water is because of the drought, etc.
In the following text we will discuss common waters that people boat on, and common hazards that are found
on those waterways.
RIVERS
With thousands and thousands of miles of navigable rivers, the United States offers a tremendous variety of
cruising options. Rivers offer many different challenges to boaters, and you need to know what to expect before
you start off on your next river adventure.
Hazards that occur on rivers vary greatly depending on where you are cruising. For instance, rivers off the
Chesapeake Bay may include such things as shallow waters and soft, muddy bottoms that make running
aground very likely, especially if you dont pay attention to the tide. Rivers in Maine may offer great tidal
changes and submerged rocks that will do extensive damage to your boat if you happen to strike one.
Other things to watch out for are low-head dams, bridges with restricted clearances, over-head power lines, and
even buoys that are submerged or moved by a fast moving current. Natural hazards include bars and shoals,
submerged rocks, floating debris (which may accumulate into partial dams called "strainers") and strong tides
and currents.
Navigation on rivers may also be somewhat different from river to river. Rivers such as the Mississippi that have
a great deal of river bends and also have a large commercial traffic presence probably offer the greatest
challenge to recreational boating.
River bends must be handled with great care, as you often cannot see what is around the bend.
Though most boaters tend to operate their vessels in the middle of the
waterway, the waters are actually deeper on the outside of river bends.
It is prudent to stay as near to the outside of the channel as you can in
order to keep in the deeper water, and you will also be able to see
oncoming traffic earlier - especially commercial traffic.
Rules of the Road state that vessels following the current have right of way
over vessels going against the current on the Western River System. But
you would be foolish to claim this right if you have right of way over a barge
or other commercial traffic that must maintain constant speed and steerage
to stay in the channel.
When in doubt, or when you are faced with a much larger commercial
vessel, give way! Stay in contact with river traffic, and if you are approaching a commercial tow, consult with the
captain to see on which side he wants you to pass, or if he wants you to wait for him to clear the bend before
you pass. Remember, it is much easier for you to maneuver than it is for a commercial vessel.
Using maps or following aids to navigation on lakes and rivers can be confusing at best, and very dangerous if
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Inland Boating
Page 2 of 4
you are not familiar with the system being used on that particular body of water.
Different agencies such as local map companies, the U.S. Corps of Engineers and NOAA, use different
symbols to show the same object. Similarly, symbols may take on completely different meanings on different
charts. Pay attention to the map legend to note what different symbols stand for.
LAKES
Lakes offer a vast range of boating opportunities. Most lakes are small enough to see all of the shoreline, and
are generally very safe waters on which to operate your boat. Many lakes are actually reservoirs that may offer
dangerous bottom features such as tree stumps, fences, rock outcroppings, and even submerged houses.
Larger lakes, such as the Great Lakes, can be just as challenging as the ocean. Waves can build up quickly,
and tend to behave differently than they do on the ocean with tall, close waves rather than long swells.
Rules of the road still need to be followed even though many smaller lakes do not fall under Federal regulation
and private lakes may not even fall under state regulation.
DAMS
Dams also offer unique enticements and challenges to boaters. Most reservoirs and many rivers have large
cruising areas that have been created by dams. Dam spillways often hold trophy-sized fish in their turbulent
waters. But the dangers are real!
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Dam spillways, either from a large dams sluice, or from a low-head dam, create an
undertow that can swamp your boat and pin you underwater. Many spillways are marked
with buoy lines that mark the danger area- pay attention to them!
Above the dam, you have hydroelectric intake tubes, water gates that can have large
amounts of debris trapped in front of them, and low-head dams that can be difficult to see
until you are on top of them.
The best course of action when cruising a new area is to check your map or chart for dams, especially low-head
dams, and steer clear!
LOCKS
Over the last one hundred years much of Americas interior has been opened to cruising boats because of
canal and lock systems such as the Tenn -Tom waterway and the New York State Barge Canal. While these
canal systems were formed for commercial traffic, recreational boaters now heavily use them.
Canal systems can have virtually every type of waterway that you can boat on, from narrow rivers, to wide
lakes. Here are some things you need to consider on waterways with locks.
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Make note of the water levels on the canal system you will cruise. Water levels may vary
dramatically over the course of a year. If your boat has a deep draft, you may not be able to
travel on some canal systems during certain times of the year.
Be careful of floating debris in lock systems. Because water level and flow is regulated,
debris tends to build up, especially near the locks. Debris in the locks may get caught
between your vessel and the lock wall, causing damage to your boat.
Watch the currents as you head up river near a dam. Currents can be very strong,
especially when the lock or dam gates are open.
As you approach a lock, there are special rules of the road you need to follow to insure a safe and quick lock
transit.
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When you near a lock, hail the lock-master or tender on VHF channel 16/14/13 (Your local
chart will have the proper channel marked) for instructions on when you can lock through.
The lock-master will give you information on where to tie up, especially if you will be locking
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Inland Boating
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with other vessels. If you do not have a VHF, you may use three long blasts with your horn,
or use small boat signal cord which many locks have on the outer approach wall of the
lock.
When it is time to enter the lock, you will either hear horn blasts, or see a flashing green
light.
A flashing red light means do not move forward, a green and amber light means proceed
with caution, and an amber light means proceed under full control.
Some systems may use fixed lights, but most use a flashing light system.) If there is a main
and an auxiliary lock, one long horn blast will mean that you are to enter the main lock
(land side lock) two long horn blasts mean that you are to enter the auxiliary lock (river side
lock).
The same signals are used to depart the lock, except that the horn signals are short blasts
instead of long blasts.
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Inland Boating
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There is a strictly enforced order that vessels may enter a lock. As a pleasure craft, you will always have the
lowest priority for entering a lock.
Military craft have first priority, followed by commercial passenger vessels, commercial tows, commercial fishing
vessels, and finally pleasure craft. Even if you are the first to arrive, vessels with higher priority will be allowed
into the lock before you.
Normally everyone on board except the captain (if the captain is not also a line handler) will be required to wear
a life jacket. Have bumpers on the side of the boat next to the wall, both sides if you are tied to a raft of boats.
Automobile tires are not allowed in locks, so dont use them for fenders.
Have your crew equipped with poles to fend the boat off the walls or other boats. Turbulence, other boats and
the wind can move your boat around quite a bit inside the lock. Have strong lines to tie up your boat. Many
modern locks have floating bollards to tie your vessel to, but most older locks do not. Make sure your lines are
long enough to reach the top of the lock.
Never use a hitch to tie up with that you cannot readily remove from a bollard as you might need to remove
your lines very quickly. Better yet, have a line handler take in or pay out slack as necessary. When it is time to
leave the lock, you will do so in the order that you entered the lock. Proceed at a slow speed, and enjoy your
trip!
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Page 1 of 1
STATE SPECIFIC INFORMATION

Note: The web content presented on this page is the property of each
respective state agency. All information provided here is for educational purposes only
Select State : Michigan
Get State Boating Info
Instructions: Select your state from the list above. After you click the button labeled "Get Boating Guide Info",
the state's web page containing boating information, or a summary chart page will appear in place of this text.
If you receive an error message, or a dead link, please report this information to onlinecourse@boatus.com.
3/9/2004
State Boating Education Law
Page 1 of 2
STATE EDUCATIONAL REQUIREMENTS

Click on your state to view requirements. Information will display below the map.
Terms:
"education is mandatory" - boaters must have passed at least a boating safety course before
they may operate a vessel.
"proctored, boating safety course" - a boater education program conducted by an
administrator, in a classroom setting. Examples include programs offered by state and local
marine patrols, USCG Auxiliaries, and U.S. Power Squadron chapters.
"non-proctored, boating safety course" - a boater education program that is not conducted by
an administrator, outside of a classroom setting. Examples include home-study courses and
internet courses.
"no mandatory educational requirements" - boaters are not required to complete any boating
safety courses before they may operate a vessel.
"boaters may complete either non-proctored or proctored boating safety courses for
certification" - state requirements for boater education are fulfilled by either proctored or nonproctored programs - it is at the boater's discretion to avail themselves of either option.
Disclaimer:
All information is provided as a service. All information is, to the best of our knowledge, correct,
as of September 29, 2003. To be absolutely certain regarding the specifics of boating laws in
your state, please contact your local Boating Education or Department of Natural resources
3/9/2004
State Boating Education Law
Page 2 of 2
office.
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ABAFT
Toward the rear of the boat. Behind.
ABEAM At right angles to the keel of the boat, but not on the boat.
ABOARD On or within the boat.
ABOVE DECK On the deck.
ABREAST Side by side; by the side of.
ADRIFT Loose, not on moorings or towline.
AFT Toward the rear of the boat.
AGROUND Touching or fast to the bottom.
AHEAD In a forward direction.
AIDS TO NAVIGATION Markers on land or sea which are located to enable navigators to
avoid danger and fix their position
ALEE Away from the direction of the wind. Opposite of windward.
ALOFT Above the deck of the boat.
AMIDSHIPS In or toward the center of the boat.
ANCHOR LINE A line used to hold a vessel fast to the anchor
ANCHORAGE A suitable place for anchoring in relation to the wind, seas and
bottom.
ASTERN Towards the back of the boat, opposite of ahead.
ATHWARTSHIPS At right angles to the centerline of the boat.
AWEIGH Off the bottom of an anchor
BATTEN DOWN
Secure hatches and loose objects both within the hull and on
deck.
BEAM The greatest width of the boat.

BEARING The direction of an object (vessel, buoy, etc.) from an observer;
bearings can be visual, or by radio or radar.
BELOW Beneath the deck.
BIGHT The part of the rope or line, between the end and the standing
part, on which a knot is formed.
BILGE The lowest point of a vessel's interior hull.
BILGE BLOWER The electric fan that blows gasoline fumes out of the bilge.
BITTER END The extreme end of any line. The inboard end of the anchor rode.
BLOWER A device that blows fuel vapors trapped inside the vessel to the
outside. Blowers should be run for about 5 minutes prior to
starting a boat's inboard engine to reduce the risk of explosion.
BOAT A fairly indefinite term. A waterborne vehicle smaller than a ship.
One definition is a small craft carried aboard a ship.
BOAT HOOK A short shaft with a fitting at one end shaped to facilitate use in
putting a line over a piling, recovering an object dropped
overboard, or in pushing or fending off.
BOOT TOP A painted line that indicates the designed waterline.
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BOW The forward part of a boat.
BOW LINE A docking line leading from the bow.
BOWLINE A knot used to form a temporary loop in the end of a line.
BRIDGE The location from which a vessel is steered and its speed
controlled. "Control Station" is really a more appropriate term for
small craft.
BRIDLE A line or wire secured at both ends in order to distribute a strain
between two points.
BRIGHTWORK Varnished woodwork and/or polished metal.
BULKHEAD A vertical partition separating compartments.
BUOY An anchored float used for marking a position on the water or a
hazard or a shoal and for mooring.
BURDENED VESSEL That vessel which, according to the applicable Navigation Rules,
must give way to the privileged vessel. The term has been
superseded by the term "give-way".
CABIN
A compartment for passengers or crew.
CAPACITY PLATE A placard permanently mounted on the stern describing the total
weight limit allowed onboard. Includes people, engine, fuel & gear
that can be safely carried.
CAPSIZE To turn over.
CARBURETOR BACK A safety device made of a mesh construction to prevent
FLAME ARRESTOR explosion from engine exhaust backfire.
CAST OFF Undo mooring lines in preparation for departure.
CATAMARAN A twin-hulled boat, with hulls side by side.
CHANNEL 1. That part of a body of water deep enough for navigation
through an are otherwise not suitable. It is usually marked by a
single or double line of buoys and sometimes by range markers.
2. The deepest part of a stream, bay, or strait,
through which the main current flows.
CHAFING GEAR Tubing or cloth wrapping used to protect a line from chafing on a
rough surface.
CHART A sea going map for use by navigators.
CHINE The intersection of the bottom and sides of a flat or v-bottomed
boat.
CHOCK A fitting through which anchor or mooring lines are led. Usually Ushaped to reduce chafe.
CLEAT A fitting to which lines are made fast. The classic cleat to which
lines are belayed is approximately anvil-shaped.
CLOVE HITCH A knot for temporarily fastening a line to a spar or piling.
COAMING A vertical piece around the edge of a cockpit, hatch, etc. to
prevent water on deck from running below.
COCKPIT An opening in the deck from which the boat is handled.
COIL To lay a line down in circular turns.
COMPASS Navigation instrument, either magnetic (showing magnetic north)
or gyroscopic (showing true north)
COURSE The direction in which a boat is steered.
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CUDDY A small shelter cabin in a boat.
CURRENT The horizontal movement of water.
The area encompassed from dead ahead of your boat to just

ANGER ZONE abaft your starboard beam. You must stand clear of any boat in
the "danger zone".
DAY BEACON A fixed navigation structure used in shallow water upon which is
placed one or more daymarks.
DEAD AHEAD Directly ahead.
DEAD ASTERN Directly aft.
DEAD RECKONING The navigational art of determining your position based on course
steered and speed rather than through obtaining a position from
other means. ( Using a chart or electronic device)
DECK A permanent covering over a compartment, hull or any part
thereof.
DINGHY A small open boat. A dinghy is often used as a tender for a larger
craft.
DISPLACEMENT The weight of water displaced by a floating vessel, thus, a boat's
weight.
DISPLACEMENT HULL A type of hull that plows through the water, displacing a weight of
water equal to its own weight, even when more power is added.
DOCK A protected water area in which vessels are secured. The term is
often used incorrectly to denote a pier or a wharf. The dock is the
water adjacent to a pier or wharf.
DOLPHIN A group of piles driven close together and bound with wire cables
into a single structure.
DOWNWIND A direction leeward, with the wind.
DRAFT The minimum depth of water in which a vessel will float.
EBB (tide)
FATHOM
A receding current.
Six feet.
FENDER A cushion, placed between boats, or between a boat and a pier,

to prevent damage.
FIGURE EIGHT KNOT A knot in the form of a figure eight, placed in the end of a line to
prevent the line from passing through a grommet or a block.
FLARE A pyrotechnic device used to signal a distress. The outward curve
of a vessel's sides near the bow.
FLOOD A incoming current.
FLOORBOARDS The surface of the cockpit on which the crew stand.
FLUKE The part of an anchor that is designed to dig in to the bottom.
FOLLOWING SEA An overtaking sea that comes from astern.
FORE-AND-AFT In a line parallel to the keel.
FOREPEAK A compartment in the bow of a small boat.
FORWARD Toward the bow of the boat.
FOULED Any piece of equipment that is jammed or entangled, or dirtied.
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FREEBOARD The minimum vertical distance from the surface of the water to
the gunwale.
GALLEY
The kitchen area of a boat.
GANGWAY The area of a ship's side where people board and disembark.
GEAR A general term for ropes, blocks, tackle and other equipment.
GIVE-WAY VESSEL A term used to describe the vessel which must yield in meeting,
crossing, or overtaking situations.
GLOBAL POSITIONING A form of position finding using radio transmissions from satellites
SYSTEM with sophisticated on-board automatic equipment.
GRAB RAILS Hand-hold fittings mounted on cabin tops and sides for personal
safety when moving around the boat.
GROUND TACKLE A collective term for the anchor and its associated gear.
GUNWALE The upper edge of a boat's sides.
HARD CHINE
An abrupt intersection between the hull side and the hull bottom
of a boat so constructed.
HATCH An opening in a boat's deck fitted with a watertight cover.

HEAD A marine toilet. Also the upper corner of a triangular sail.
HEADING The direction in which a vessel's bow points at any given time.
HEADWAY The forward motion of a boat. Opposite of sternway.
HELM The wheel or tiller controlling the rudder.
HELMSMAN The person who steers the boat.
HITCH A knot used to secure a rope to another object or to another rope,
or to form a loop or a noose in a rope.
HOLD A compartment below deck in a large vessel, used solely for
carrying cargo.
HORSEPOWER The equivalent of a lift of 550 pounds one foot in one second.
HULL The main body of a vessel.
INBOARD
More toward the center of a vessel; inside; a motor fitted inside a

boat.
INTRACOASTAL ICW: bays, rivers, and canals along the coasts connected so that
WATERWAY vessels may travel without going into the sea.
JACOBS LADDER
A rope ladder, lowered from the deck, as when pilots or

passengers come aboard.
JETTY A structure, usually masonry, projecting out from the shore; a

jetty may protect a harbor entrance.
KEEL
The centerline of a boat running fore and aft; the backbone of a

vessel.
KNOT A measure of speed equal to one nautical mile (6076 feet) per
hour.
KNOT A fastening made by interweaving rope to form a stopper, to
enclose or bind an object, to form a loop or a noose, to tie a small
rope to an object, or to tie the ends of two small ropes together.
The distance north or south of the equator measured and
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LATITUDE
expressed in degrees.
LAZARETTE A storage space in a boat's stern area.

LEE The side sheltered from the wind.
LEEWARD The direction away from the wind. Opposite of windward.
LEEWAY The sideways movement of the boat caused by either wind or
current.
LINE Rope and cordage used aboard a vessel.
LOCK A structure having movable gates for ships and boats to pass up
and down to different water levels in a canal, river, or tidal basin.
LOG A record of courses or operation. Also, a device to measure
speed.
LONGITUDE The distance in degrees east or west of the meridian at
Greenwich, England.
LUBBER'S LINE A mark or permanent line on a compass indicating the direction
forward parallel to the keel when properly installed.
MARLINESPIKE
A tool for opening the strands of a rope while splicing.
MIDSHIP Approximately in the location equally distant from the bow and
stern.
MONOHULL Single hull boat in contrast to a multihull such as a catamaran or
a trimaran.
MOORING An arrangement for securing a boat to a mooring buoy or a pier.
MOORING LINES Wire, manila, or nylon rope used to secure a ship; named from
forward aft: number one bow line, number two after bow spring,
number three forward bow spring, number four breast line,
number five after quarter spring, number 6 forward quarter spring,
number seven stern line.
NAUTICAL MILE
One minute of latitude; approximately 6076 feet - about 1/8

longer than the statute mile of 5280 feet.
NAVIGATION The art and science of conducting a boat safely from one point to
another.
NAVIGATION RULES The regulations governing the movement of vessels in relation to
each other, generally called steering and sailing rules.
OUTBOARD
Toward or beyond the boat's sides. A detachable engine

mounted on a boat's stern.
OVERBOARD Over the side or out of the boat.

OVERTAKING Said to happen when on vessel is passing another from behind.
PIER
A loading platform extending at an angle from the shore.
PILE A wood, metal or concrete pole driven into the bottom. Craft may
be made fast to a pile; it may be used to support a pier (see
PILING) or a float.
PILING Support, protection for wharves, piers etc.; constructed of piles
(see PILE)
PILOTING Navigation by use of visible references, the depth of the water,
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etc.
PLANING A boat is said to be planing when it is essentially moving over the
top of the water rather than through the water.
PLANING HULL A type of hull shaped to glide easily across the water at high
speed.
PORT The left side of a boat looking forward. A harbor.
POWER WINCH A powered device on deck, on a spar or otherwise mounted
which is used to haul a line.
PRIVELEGED VESSEL A vessel which, according to the applicable Navigation Rule, has
right-of-way (this term has been superseded by the term "standon").
QUARTER
The sides of a boat aft of amidships.
QUARTERING SEA Sea coming on a boat's quarter.
The wire rope, rods, lines, hardware, and other equipment that
IGGING support and control the spars and sails; standing rigging is semipermanent once set up; running rigging is continually adjusted as
the sails are hoisted, doused, trimmed, or reefed.
RODE The anchor line and/or chain.
ROPE In general, cordage as it is purchased at the store. When it
comes aboard a vessel and is put to use it becomes line.
RUDDER A vertical plate or board for steering a boat.

RUN To allow a line to feed freely.
RUNNING LIGHTS Lights required to be shown on boats underway between
sundown and sunup, and during periods of reduced visibility.
SCOPE
Technically, the ratio of length of anchor rode in use to the

vertical distance from the bow of the vessel to the bottom of the
water. Usually seven to one for calm weather and more scope in
storm conditions.
SCREW A boat's propeller.

SCUPPERS Drain holes on deck, in the toe rail, or in bulwarks or (with drain
pipes) in the deck itself.
SEA COCK A through hull valve, a shut off on a plumbing or drain pipe
between the vessel's interior and the sea.
SEAMANSHIP All the arts and skills of boat handling, ranging from maintenance
and repairs to piloting, sail handling, marlinespike work, and
rigging.
SEA ROOM A safe distance from the shore or other hazards.
SEAWORTHY A boat or a boat's gear able to meet the usual sea conditions.
SECURE To make fast.
SET Direction toward which the current is flowing.
SHIP A larger vessel usually thought of as being used for ocean travel.
A vessel able to carry a "boat" on board.
SLACK Not fastened; loose. Also, to loosen.
SOLE Cabin or saloon floor. Timber extensions on the bottom of the
rudder. Also the molded fiberglass deck of a cockpit.
SOUNDING A measurement of the depth of water.
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SPRING LINE A pivot line used in docking, undocking, or to prevent the boat
from moving forward or astern while made fast to a dock.
SQUALL A sudden, violent wind often accompanied by rain.
SQUARE KNOT A knot used to join two lines of similar size. Also called a reef
knot.
STANDING PART That part of a line which is made fast. The main part of a line as
distinguished from the bight and the end.
STAND-ON VESSEL That vessel which has right-of-way during a meeting, crossing, or
overtaking situation.
STARBOARD The right side of a boat when looking forward.
STEM The forward most part of the bow.
STERN The back part of the boat.
STERN LINE A docking line leading from the stern.
STOW To put an item in its proper place.
SWAMP To fill with water, but not settle to the bottom.
TENDER
A small boat accompanying a yacht or other pleasure vessel,

used to transport persons, gear, and supplies; sometimes called
a dinghy.
Most commonly refers to one who tends to a drawbridge. Boaters
contact the bridge tender to get the bridge raised so they can
pass under.
THROTTLE Regulates the flow of fuel, and thus the speed, of an internal
combustion engine.
THWARTSHIPS At right angles to the centerline of the boat.
TIDE The periodic rise and fall of water level in the oceans.
TILLER A bar or handle for turning a boat's rudder or an outboard motor.
TOPSIDES The sides of a vessel between the waterline and the deck;
sometimes referring to onto or above the deck.
TOWING Assisting a vessel unable to maneuver by pulling, pushing or
towing alongside.
TRANSOM The stern cross-section of a square sterned boat.
TRIM Fore and aft balance of a boat. To set and adjust sails.
UNDERWAY
Vessel in motion, i.e., when not moored, at anchor, or aground.
UNDERWRITER'S One of the chief testing organizations, helping to set US safety

LABORATORIES standards.
V BOTTOM
WAKE
A hull with the bottom section in the shape of a "V".

Moving waves, track or path that a boat leaves behind it, when
moving across the waters.
WATERLINE The imaginary line drawn on the hull by the water's surface where
a boat settles when loaded normally.
WAY Movement of a vessel through the water such as headway,
sternway or leeway.
WINDWARD Toward the direction from which the wind is coming.
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YACHT
A pleasure vessel, a pleasure boat; in American usage the idea

of size and luxury is conveyed, either sail or power.
YAW To swing or steer off course, as when running with a quartering

sea.
3/9/2004

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TOP NAVIGATION BAR

straight out from the middle of your boat's left side.

Is a major cause of collision between boats underway.

TOP NAVIGATION BAR

COURSE INSTRUCTIONS AND FEATURES

TOP NAVIGATION BAR

Where to go from here?

LOADING & CAPACITY PLATES

Capacity Plate information by boat type:

Boat Types and Uses

KNOW YOUR BOAT!

Boat Types and Uses

Cathedral hull - Cathedral or multi-hulls, are two or more hulls attached

Boat Types and Uses

Know the Law

Hull Identification Number

TYPE I - Inherently Buoyant:

When cruising, racing and fishing offshore , or when boating alone,

Minimum buoyancy: 34 lbs.

TYPE II - Near-Shore Inherently Buoyant:

Minimum buoyancy: 34 lbs.

TYPE III - Flotation Aid Inherently Buoyant:

Minimum buoyancy: 22.5 lbs.

TYPE IV - Throwable Device Inherently Buoyant:

Throw to overboard victim or to supplement the buoyancy of a person

TYPE V - Special Use Device:

TYPE V INFLATABLE: Automatic inflation models

Minimum buoyancy: 22.5 to 34 lbs. depending on style.

Check the status of the inflator to be certain cartridge is properly installed.

LIFE JACKETS and KIDS

Youth PFD Wearing Requirements

them facing up.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR LIFE JACKETS...

Check your life jackets at the beginning of each boating season.

Store in an area with good ventilation.

Treat your life jacket as if your life depends on it!

Potentially Required Equipment:

Don't Leave Port Without It!

carry a bell and a whistle.

It's Your Responsibility:

Light Shapes, Colors, and Positions # 1

Navigation lights on a powerboat

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Light Shapes, Colors, and Positions # 2

Navigation lights on a powerboat

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Light Shapes, Colors, and Positions # 3

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Light Shapes, Colors, and Positions # 4

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Sailboats under sail alone.

All vessels should use proper navigation lights. However, non-powered

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INTERPRETING WHAT YOU SEE: