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As we started, Professor Daisy Bantatua and his Assistant Professor Ador Alomia assigned us to report
the Grinding, Drilling and Milling by groupings. For doing that, our two professors divided us 5-6 members that
accommodate of 5 groups then we assigned designated reports each groups. We already finished the topic of
Grinding, Drilling and Milling on our academic and for making actual Cadet Fernandez assigned by Our
Professor Daisy to buy a Materials that needed on our laboratory this are the tool block and Stainless long
bar thats why Fernandez contributed each F1E cadet to pay a 100 pesos for the two materials are needed.
Cadet Fernandez gave the tool block and for the long bar stainless we cut us by 6 inches individually using of
hacksaw and we now started the machine shop laboratory.
Grinding of Tool bit and Chisel
Tool bit
Step 1: Use a bench grinder to sharpen your tool bits. Even an inexpensive bench grinder can do a good job
grinding lathe tool bits. In some cases, you might want to purchase a higher quality fine grit wheel. Keep a
small cup of water near your grinder. Grinding generates heat, which can cause two problems. The tool bit will
become too hot to hold. Overheating can also affect the heat treatment of the tool bit, leaving the cutting edge
soft. Use a protractor to measure the angles. They are not super-critical, but you should try to stay within one
degree of the recommendations.
Step 2: Grind the Front Relief
The first step in creating a tool bit is to grind the front relief. For most work, a relief angle of 10 works well.
While you are grinding the front relief, you are also creating the front cutting edge angle. Make this angle about
10 also, so that the corner formed by the front cutting edge and the side cutting edge is less than 90.
Step 3: Grind the Left Side Relief From the left side relief next. Again, create about a 10 angle. You dont need
to form a side cutting angle. The side cutting edge can be parallel to the side of the tool blank.
Step 4: Grind the Top Rake
The top of the tool bit is ground at an angle that combines the back rake and the side rake. The side rake is most
important, because the side cutting edge does most of the work. For cutting steel and aluminum, the side rake
should be about 12 and the back rake should be about 8. For cutting brass, the rake angles should be much
less, or even 0.
Step 5: Round the Nose
A small nose radius allows you to turn into tight corners. A large nose radius produces better surface finishes.
Create a nose radius that is appropriate for the tool bit you are creating.
Grinding the Chisel
Step 1: First, adjust the tool rest on the grinder so the chisel (or plane iron) can lie flat on the surface of the rest,
not just against the upper or lower edge. This way you have more control. The bevel on most chisels and plane
irons is 25 degrees. So set the angle of the tool rest to grind the same bevel on your tool.
Step 2: Next, I clamp a small, rectangular block of wood to the blade so the long side of the block butts against
the lower edge of the tool rest during sharpening. This provides a positive reference point (a stop) so you can lift
the tool off the wheel to inspect the bevel or dip it in water. Then the tool can be returned to precisely the same
spot on the wheel.
Step 3: Some chisels are too short to attach a stop block. In that case, you can use a small C-clamp as a stop.
But if there's room, I use a stop block because it has the added advantage of holding the tool perpendicular to
the edge of the tool rest. This makes it easier to grind a bevel that's 90 degree to the side of the tool.

Step 4: With the tool rest in position and the block clamped to the tool, you're ready to grind the bevel. To do
this, turn on the grinder and place the block against the tool rest and move the bevel gently across the wheel.
After a couple of light side to side passes, check to see if the bevel is even, and if the cutting edge is square to
the side.
Milling of Chisel

Common Milling Operations Milling Flat Surfaces One way to mill a flat surface is by plane milling. Adjust the
milling cutter vertically to give the needed depth of cut while the workpiece is held on the table and slowly feed
it horizontally. Every tooth on the periphery of the cutter removes a chip every revolution. Milling wide, flat
surfaces this way is called slab milling. Figure 17.11 One way to mill a flat surface is by plane milling Another
way to mill flat surfaces is by face milling. In this method, the cutter teeth operate at right angles to the cutter
axis. Inserted-tooth face-milling cutters face mill large surfaces. Figure 17.12 Inserted tooth face milling cutters
face mill large surfaces Bevels and chamfers are cut at an angle to the main work-piece surface. A bevel cut
(Figure 17.13) goes from side to side, completely removing the perpendicular edge. A chamfer removes only
part of the perpendicular edge. Figure 17.3 A bevel cut goes from side to side, completely removing the
perpendicular edge.
Safety Precautions
Safety Your workshop is only as safe as you make it. Take responsibility for the safety of all who use or
visit it. This list of rules is by no means complete, and remember that common sense is a must.
1. Know your machine. Read this manual thoroughly before attempting to operate your machine. Dont
try to do more than you or your machine can handle. Understand the hazards of operating a machine tool. In
particular, remember never to change speeds or set-ups until the machine is completely stopped, and never
operate it without first rolling your sleeves or tying them at your wrists.
2. Ground the machine. The MI-1220 LTD has three-conductor cords and three-prong grounding-type
receptacles. Never connect the power supply without properly grounding the machine.
3. Remove all adjusting keys and wrenches from the machine before operating. A chuck key or
misplaced Allen wrench can be safety hazard.
4. Keep your work area clean and organized. Cluttered work areas and benches invite accidents. Have a
place for everything and put everything in place.
5. Keep children away from the machine while it is in use. Childproof your shop with padlocks, master
switches, and starter keys, or store the machine where children do not have access to it.
6. Wear appropriate clothing. Avoid loose-fitting clothes, gloves, neckties, or jewelry that could get
caught in moving parts. If you have long hairs, tie it up or otherwise keep it from getting into the machine.
7. Use safety glasses, goggles, or a face shield at all times. Use glasses designed for machinery
operation; regular glasses will not do. Have extras for visitors. Know when to wear a facemask and earplugs, as
8. Check for damaged parts. Make sure the machine will run properly before operating it.
9. Disconnect the machine before servicing and when changing accessories. Shut power off before
making changes, removing debris, or measuring your work. Dont reach over the machine when its operating.
Keep your hands out of the way.
10. Avoid accidental starts. Turn the switch to OFF before plugging in the machine.
11. Secure your work. Flying metal is dangerous. Loose work can also bind tools.
12. Use the recommended accessories. Understand how to use them before trying them out.
This academic and actual activity for making a tool bit and chisel using of all operations that we
needed is the first and not last because this is the test for us a beginners. This is how we test basic machine shop

thats why we need us to know the familiarizations of tools, equipments and machines and how to use it. This is
how our professor repeated the topic again and again to absorb for our future knowledge.
I conclude that machine shop 02 that all of the topic discussed and do actually are not easy for us a
beginners because we need to learn more knowledge, skills, ability and strength. The important topic that
absorb us is our safety when in the workplace it because the wrong doings it cause of forever unemployed
because you have a not completely and fitted to work thats why we need us be carefully what doings because
accidents change of your life forever.