AXLES AND ALLOYS II

DORK FUTURE
PLAYTEST VERSION 20/OCT/2014
1 - FOREWORD AND PREAMBLE
Axles and Alloys II is a game of stupid automotive combat using Matchbox and Hot
Wheels cars converted into post-apocalyptic, crudely armoured, gun-toting wagons.
Which then proceed to chase each other around a radioactive desert landscape
attempting to destroy each other for absolutely no bloody good reason whatsoever. Its
main influence is the toy car conversion scene that sprang up around Games Workshop's
Dark Future in the 1980s along with my feelings that Dark Future was never a very good
game in the first place and that the Car Wars ruleset was too large and cumbersome to
be worth playing, while the Car Wars counters were too small and fiddly to be worth
playing.
The original Axles and Alloys, way before it ever got written up for web distribution
back around 2001 or so was little more than a homebrew adaptation of Full Thrust with
Hot Wheels cars rather than Spacecraft. Axles and Alloys was the form the game took
when dragged around the wargames convention scene in the English Midlands. It turned
out to be surprisingly popular when released onto the intertubes for reasons I can't
really grok but I suspect that it was a hit because it didn't take itself very seriously,
offered a great outlet for the sort of creative urges that enjoy converting Matchbox and
Hot Wheels cars into post-apocalyptic, crudely armoured gun-toting wagons etc. and
that previous attempts at this sort of thing (like the aforementioned commercial games)
weren't actually very playable.
So this is 2010's version (now tweaked in 2014 we are getting old..) and it's called Axles
and Alloys II. As is the modern fashion it also has a subtitle Dork Future.
It's still fundamentally the same game, but with new, better movement rules and a load
of stuff written down for your convenience that wasn't actually written down before.
It's also still completely free.
It's important to remember when reading the rules and playing the game my thoughts
on Battletech. For me Battletech is an excellent little game of Giant Robots Kicking The
Shit Out Of One Another. And games that revolve around Giant Robots Kicking The Shit
Out Of One Another work best when they limit themselves to being games that revolve
around Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out of One Another. Honestly it has Giant Robots
Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another and that's all it needs. Once games like Battletech
drift off into possessing fan scenes that take great pains to remain canon with the
background and worry about whether their camouflage painting is accurate for a
universe that doesn't exist and making sure that their vision of the world of Giant Robots
Kicking The Shit Out Of One Another matches the game designer's one 100%... it gets

stupid.
Axles and Alloys II is a game of Converted Hot Wheels And Matchbox Cars Driving Around
And Around And Around and Trying To Shoot The Shit Out of One Another. It doesn't
deserve a game treatment any more involved than this one. Do you want something on a
par with Advanced Squad Leader when all you are doing is Converting Hot Wheels And
Matchbox Cars And Then Driving Around And Around And Around and Trying To Shoot The
Shit Out of One Another?
No? Good. Read on.
Required Toys and Equipment
Each player will require a toy car, preferably of Matchbox/Hot Wheels size (but notes on
scaling for larger cars can be found in Appendix II) referred to in the rules as a Vehicle.
See Appendix I for notes on converting these cars. Cars don't need to be based but
assuming you are using cars of the Matchbox/Hot Wheels size nearly all of them will fit
neatly into a 3 x 1.5 base. Some players prefer to leave the cars unbased so that they
can continue to enjoy the tactile feel of whizzing cars across the tabletop. Some
players prefer to leave the cars unbased but glue the axles up to prevent them rolling
off slopes. Some players like the look of a model on a proper base with groundworking.
YMMV.
Dice are all standard d6 but you will need access to a Games Workshop Scatter Die or
similar. If you don't have one, paint out the dots on an old d6 and paint a little arrowhead on each face.
Mines, Oil Slicks, Napalm, Smokescreen and Spikes counters are all 3 x 1.5 in size.
You'll need these if any vehicle is using Dropped Weapon systems.
Cotton Wool for marking fires/destroyed vehicles (or just ready-made wrecks) and a
selection of counters to mark moved vehicles and vehicles that have already attacked.
Terrain. We traditionally use a desert cloth (either one of the no-longer-available Games
Workshop 1970s vinyl tablecloth mats or some camel-covered bedsheets sprayed up
with aerosol paints. On top of this we add assorted desert terrain such as sand-coloured
hills, swamps, outcrops of rock and wrecked vehicles.
Pens and scrap paper for plotting speeds.
Tape Measures. Axles and Alloys II uses Imperial measurements (aka English
measurements). If you live in a country where Imperial tape measures aren't easily
available you can make measuring sticks by marking off every 25mm and calling it an
inch. (It's actually 25.4mm but who cares?). Alternatively you can play in centimetres by
doubling all measurements in this game and reading them as centimetres instead, so
that a 12 move actually becomes 24cm. This is a shorter than a proper inch-tocentimetre conversion but frankly doesn't matter very much so long as everyone is doing
the same thing.
Conventions
We always measure from centre of roof to centre of roof. We dont allow pre-measuring
before an order has been written.

2 - VEHICLES
We divide Vehicles into three classes by Weight.
Light Vehicles are small superminis (sub-compacts Mini, Ford Fiesta, Toyota Yaris etc.),
small sports cars (MX-5/Miata, Lotus Elise, MGB etc.), hot-rods with minimal bodywork
and dune buggy type cars.
Heavy Vehicles are vans, big trucks, ambulances, stretch limos, hearses, armoured cars
etc.
Virtually everything else is a Medium Vehicle. Nearly all saloon (sedan) cars and muscle
cars are Medium Vehicles.
Each Vehicle has four ratings for it's speed and handling. These are MAX (Maximum
Speed), ACC (Maximum Acceleration), DEC (Maximum Deceleration) and TURN (Number
of turns permitted per game turn).
Light Vehicles typically have MAX 26, ACC 6, DEC 6, TURN 3
Medium Vehicles typically have MAX 22, ACC 5, DEC 5, TURN 2
Heavy Vehicles typically have MAX 18, ACC 4, DEC 4, TURN 2
These figures can be tweaked to more closely represent the models you have available
but they are recommended figures for pick-up games.
Optional Rule - You can randomly create cars by taking the typical values above and
throwing a d6 for each of MAX, ACC and DEC. Do not adjust the TURN rating. DEC
should never be reduced below 2.
On a 1 subtract 2 from the value.
On a 2 subtract 1 from the value.
On a 3 or 4 leave the value as is.
On a 5 add 1 to the value.
On a 6 add 2 to the value.
Hit Points record the damage that a vehicle can take. On a vehicle sheet, the Hit
Points will consist of three lines of circles, each of equal length, in the following
manner.
OOOOO
OOOOO
OOOOO
Once a line of circles has been crossed out, the vehicle driver tests for the loss of
Components as detailed in the damage section below.
Light vehicles have 3 lines of 4 circles, and therefore have 12 hit points. Medium
vehicles have 3 lines of 5 circles, and therefore have 15 hit points. Heavy vehicles have
3 lines of 6 circles, and therefore have 18 hit points.
Vehicles can be equipped with a number of weapons and items of equipment dependent
upon their weight class. We refer to these weapons and items of equipment as

Components and the amount that a specific vehicle can carry as its Capacity.
Light Vehicles have a Capacity of 3 points. Medium Vehicles have a Capacity of 4 points.
Heavy Vehicles have a Capacity of 5 points.
Each point of Capacity can be filled either with 1 Light Weapon or 1 item of Equipment.
A Medium Weapon requires 2 points of Capacity, a Turret costs an extra 1 point of
Capacity for each weapon within it. Heavy Ramplates require 2 points of Capacity. A
Dropped Weapon system costs 1 point of Capacity. Heavy Weapons cannot be fitted to
vehicles.
Flamethrowers cost 2 points of Capacity as they include both the weapon itself and its
fuel source (which, yes, is liable to explode when shot).
Weapons that are not within a turret must be declared as occupying one of four firing
faces - Front, Rear, Left or Right. This may not change during the game. Dropped
Weapon systems always occupy a Rear firing face, for reasons that should hopefully be
obvious! There is no limit on how many weapons may occupy a firing face.
An example follows
Car : Purple Haze
Driver : Antihiro Protagonist
Re-rolls : 0
Weight : Medium
Speed : MAX 22 ACC 5 DEC 5 TURN 2
Hit Points: 15
ooooo Components lost on 6
ooooo Components lost on 5,6
ooooo Vehicle Destroyed
Systems:
Engine (Damaged/Destroyed)
Steering (Damaged/Destroyed)
Brakes (Destroyed)
Fuel (Vehicle Destroyed)
Driver (Dead)
Weapons:
Heavy Laser (Medium, Front arc)
Light Laser (Light, Rear arc)
Equipment:
Ramplates
Purple Haze has been built with the standard Medium weight class stat line. Being a
Medium vehicle it has a Capacity of 4. The Light Laser and Ramplates each cost 1
Capacity and the Medium Laser costs 2. As neither weapon is turreted, Purple Haze's
player decides that the Heavy Laser will fire forwards and the Light Laser backwards.
WYSIWYG
In an ideal world, vehicle models would be entirely WYSIWYG with exactly the same
weapon configuration as on the Vehicle Sheet. Obviously in the real world this never
happens.

A vehicle model must always be of the right weight class - no vans pretending to be dune
buggies for example. Beyond that the actual modelled weapon configuration can be
purely representative. Before play, each player must announce his Weight Class, all fired
weapons including turret mountings, ramplates and heavy ramplates. There is no need
to announce any other Components including Dropped Weapons.
At any point during the game, any player can request that this information be repeated.

3 - TURN SEQUENCE
1
2
3
4
5

- All players write down intended speed for this game-turn aka Plotting Speed.
- If using optional Environmental Conditions, any required die rolls are made now.
- Vehicles are moved in order of speed from fastest to slowest. Each vehicle may fire.
- Any vehicles that have not yet fired may do so now.
- Roll for fires and the removal of smoke screens.

Speed is measured in inches. A Speed of 12 means that the vehicle will be moving 12
inches this game-turn.
At the start of each game-turn, each player writes down their vehicle's speed for the
forthcoming game-turn. This speed will be based upon the speed used in the last gameturn and may be adjusted downwards by a maximum of the vehicle's DEC rating and
upwards by a maximum of the ACC rating. Unless a nitro charge is being used the speed
may never exceed the MAX rating.
Vehicles moving backwards use their ACC rating as their MAX rating.
Vehicles with a DAMAGED engine have their MAX speed halved (rounded down). If a car
suffered a DAMAGED engine in the last game-turn and was travelling faster than it's new
adjusted MAX then the car's current speed will be the MAX rating.
Vehicles with a DESTROYED engine will have their MAX rating reduced by 4 each gameturn until stationary at which point they will longer move.
Stationary vehicles will start with an assumed speed of 0" so that they move anywhere
between 0 and their ACC rating in the game-turn in which they start moving again. A
stationary vehicle may chose whether to move forwards or backwards.
Players intending to use nitro in this game-turn will note down the use of a charge. This
will add 2d6" to a vehicle's move in this game-turn but this is a temporary boost - next
game-turn the vehicle will be assumed to be travelling at the speed written down. The
2d6" bonus is effectively ignored when the next game-turns speed is plotted. Nitros have
two charges.
Once all players have written their speed down, the game-turn may begin.
Optional Rule As nitro systems have two charges you may like to allow the truly
insane to use both at once for a 4d6 bonus as opposed to the standard intention of
allowing two boosts of 2d6 in separate game-turns. For obscure in-joke reasons this
is known as doing a Scott.
Examples
Hirsute Helga is at the wheel of Der Bahnstormer (MAX 24, ACC4, DEC3). Last game-turn
she travelled at 22". This game-turns movement may be anywhere between 19" (current
speed minus DEC) and 24" (current speed plus ACC but capped at MAX). If she were
travelling at 12, this game-turns movement may be anywhere between 9 and 16.
Mad Mick is at the wheel of The Paddywagon (MAX 20, ACC5, DEC4). Last game-turn he
travelled at 18" but suffered a DAMAGED result to his engine. His MAX is now halved to

10, but as 18" is greater than 10 his speed is reduced to 10 for this game-turn. He may
now move between 6" (current speed minus ACC) and 10" (new MAX)

4 - MOVEMENT
Vehicles are moved in the order fastest to slowest (i.e. furthest distance plotted to
shortest distance plotted). Determine the highest speed (including nitro boosts) and
allow that vehicle to move. The owner may always defer until later in the Movement
phase but if doing so is not allowed to interrupt the movement of another vehicle.
Vehicles travelling at the same speed dice off and the highest score moves first.
Example
The three vehicles in the game are moving at 22" (Doghead), 20" (Deadgirl) and 14"
(Knuckles). Doghead can move first but chooses to defer until later. Deadgirl then moves
and Doghead then chooses to make his move. Knuckles has to wait until last.
Optional Rule - For faster play, ideal for when running large games at conventions,
don't allow players to defer until later in the Movement phase.
Optional Rule - For larger games, mark moved vehicles with a counter of some
description so that all players are aware of which cars are yet to move.
Vehicles may make a number of turns equal to their TURN rating. Each turn is up to 45
degrees. A turn may be made at the start of a vehicles movement, at the end of a
vehicles movement, or midway through the vehicles movement. Only one turn may be
made at each point - i.e. it is not allowed to turn twice and then move. Turns do not
have to be plotted in the Plot Speed phase.
Vehicles with DAMAGED steering will have their TURN reduced by 1. Vehicles with
DESTROYED steering may not turn at all.
Example
Hirsute Helga is travelling at 16" and has a TURN of 2. If she wishes to make one turn
she may.
-Turn 45 degrees and travel 16"
-Travel 16" and then turn 45 degrees
-Travel 8", turn 45 degrees and travel another 8"
If she wishes to make two turns she may
-Turn 45 degrees, travel 16" and turn another 45 degrees
-Turn 45 degrees, travel 8", turn 45 degrees and travel 8"
-Travel 8", turn 45 degrees, travel 8" and turn 45 degrees.
Hitting Things
If a vehicle hits a solid piece of scenery it is destroyed. The driver is killed on a 4,5 or 6
on d6.
If a vehicle hits a pond or swamp or similar it is destroyed but probably in less violent a
fashion. We assume the driver survives but is very wet, unless the pond or swamp is
comprised of toxic waste (not unlikely) in which case he is killed or turned into a
vegetation-based lifeform on a 4,5 or 6 on d6.
If a vehicle hits a stationary vehicle (one with a current speed of 0), it takes d3 Hit

Points of damage. The stationary vehicle takes 2d6 Hit Points of damage and suffers Loss
of Control (see below). The rammer travels no further this game turn and will start next
turn at half his current speed.
If a vehicle hits a non-stationary vehicle (one with a current speed that is not 0), both
vehicles roll d6 and apply the following modifiers.
Vehicles fitted with Ramming Plates (or similar) +1
Vehicles fitted with Heavy Ramming Plates (or similar) +2
Light vehicles -1
Heavy vehicles +1
The high scorer takes d3 Hit Points of damage. He travels no further this game turn and
will start next turn at half his current speed.
The low scorer takes d6 Hit Points of damage and suffers Loss of Control.
If a vehicle hits a non-stationary vehicle in a clear head-on collision, then both vehicles
suffer 2d6 Hit Points of damage and suffer Loss of Control. If it's unclear as to whether a
collision is head-on or at an angle, I suggest you allow all players (and any interested
spectators) to vote upon it - this will pretty much guarantee it being judged a head-on
to the amusement of all who are not involved in the collision. You can't argue with
democracy.

5 SKIDS AND DRIFTS

Skidding and drifting have been given their own section because they are recommended,
but purely optional rules. Incorporating them does add extra complexity but makes the
game feel more like real driving (well as real as pretending to drive around a
radioactive wasteland shooting crossbows and lasers ever can be). Players may however
prefer the game without this further complexity as it does then feel a lot closer to the
older Axles and Alloys with it's clock-face turning system.
Any vehicle that attempts to turn while travelling at greater than 12 must throw d6 to
see if a skid occurs as soon as the vehicle model is rotated. Regardless of the result the
vehicle is still turned as the player intends.
Speed

Skids on (d6)

Distance skidded

13-18

Roll 2xd6 Vehicle skids the

lowest score in inches.

19-24

5,6

Light Roll 2xd6 Vehicle

skids the lowest score in
inches.
Medium Roll 2xd6 Vehicle
skids either score in inches
(player's choice).
Heavy Roll 2xd6 Vehicles
skids the highest score in
inches.

25+

4,5,6

Roll 2xd6 Vehicle skids the

total score in inches.

Skids are sideways movements of the vehicle and the vehicle will skid in the opposite
direction to the turn so if a vehicle skids when turning to the left it will be moved
sideways to the right.
Move the vehicle the length of the skid in inches.
If the two dice thrown for skid distance come up double six, the vehicle suffers Loss of
Control. If they come up double one, the vehicle overturns and is destroyed. In either
case the vehicle is moved the full length of the skid before suffering Loss of Control or
destruction.
[Needs diagram]
If the skid occurs at the start or mid-point of the vehicles movement, the vehicle has
having used the distance of the skid as part of it's move. This does not affect the
vehicles speed for next turn.
Example
Hirsute Helga turns at the mid point of her movement, turning to the left. Her speed is
20 so after rotating the vehicle left up to 45 degrees, her player throws d6. A score of
5 indicates a skid. Helga is driving a Lightweight vehicle so throws 2d6 but checks the
individual scores, not the total. The scores are 3 and 4 and Helga therefore skids 3

directly to the right. Helga had travelled 10 at the point of the turn and has used 3 in
the skid therefore she only moves forwards another 7 for the rest of her movement.
Drifts/Handbrake Turns
When drifting a vehicle is allowed to turn through more than 45 degrees in a turn, up to
a maximum of 90 degrees. This will automatically induce a skid and the two dice are
thrown in the normal fashion. Drifting is risky but can change direction very quickly if
somewhat haphazardly.
When turning a vehicle more than 45 degrees a player is honour-bound to declare that
this is a drift and not merely a rather cavalier measurement/estimation of 45 degrees.
A drift will always be deliberate i.e. the player must declare that he is drifting and roll
the 2d6.

6 JUMPING THINGS
If a vehicle drives over a ramp, hill crest or out of a depression at 12" or greater speed it
will become airborne. It will jump for half its current speed (quarter for Heavy vehicles)
and will ignore all terrain and other vehicles for this fragment of its move. At the end of
the jump it will land, if a Medium or Heavy vehicle and travelling at 18" or greater speed
it will take d3 damage as it does so.
Any vehicles shot at while in the air will always be treated as travelling at 21" or
greater so require 6s to hit.
If the cars movement leaves it in the air before the end of its move, leave it raised on a
small Night Nurse glass (a clear, plastic tumbler for cough and cold medicine) or similar
and mark how many inches it needs to move in the air before landing with a spare die.
The vehicles speed may not be adjusted this turn (pedals don't work very well when
flying...) and it will not be allowed to turn at the start of its movement.
Jumping vehicles cannot collide with non-jumping vehicles. If a collision occurs between
two jumping vehicles then both suffer d6 Hit Points of damage and suffer Loss of
Control. They do not suffer the additional d3 damage if a Medium or Heavy vehicle
landing at 18 or greater speed.
Examples
Virginia Dentata is travelling at 19 and 7 into her move leaves a ramp. Her vehicle is
of Medium weight. She therefore flies for 10 (19 halved and rounded up). During the
next 10 of her move she ignores all terrain, dropped weapon counters and other
vehicles. As she is in the air at the halfway point of her move (10) she may not make
a 45 degree turn here. She lands and takes d6 damage for travelling faster than 18.
She then travels the remaining 2 on the ground. She may make a 45 degree turn at the
end of her movement if her player wishes.
Dogmeat is travelling at 16 and 12 into his move crosses a hill crest. His vehicle will
fly for the next 8 (16 halved). As he has only 4 left of his move, the car is moved 4
flying and left on a temporary raiser, such as the aforementioned medicine tumbler or
large die. For the rest of this turn he is treated as travelling at 21 or greater for the
purpose of incoming fire and cannot be rammed by another vehicle. He cannot make a
turn at the end of this movement. As an aide memoir his player places a die next to the
vehicle reading 4. Next turn he cannot change his speed so stays at 16 and the first 4
of his movement are in the air.

7 - COMBAT
During a turn each vehicle may make one attack with each of it's weapons. This may
come at any point during the movement phase, including while another vehicle is being
moved when the firer will be able to say I shoot at you when you get here (indicates
point on table). The movement is temporarily frozen while the attack procedure is
carried out. This may mean that a vehicle never reaches it's end point as it is destroyed
or suffers Loss of Control before completing it's movement. Each weapon on a vehicle
may fire only once, it should be clear that a vehicle with multiple weapons might be
firing them at different times during the turn.
[The above paragraph is the original intention but we have generally played it with only
shooting after a vehicle's movement has been completed this seems quite a bit slicker
and easier to cope with, and doesn't require players who may be drinking before, during,
and after the game to watch every other player's moves like hawks.]
Combat is not simultaneous and occurs in the order in which players request it. If there
is a debate over who requested an attack first, dice-off for who gets the privilege of
firing first or allow simultaneous. Either method is acceptable but keep it consistent.
Optional Rule For larger games, mark vehicles that have attacked with a counter of
some description so that all players are aware of which cars are yet to attack.
After the slowest vehicle has completed it's move, any vehicle weapon that has not
attacked may do so. These attacks will be simultaneous.
As was the case in the original Axles and Alloys, combat owes a great debt to Jon
Tuffley's excellent spacecraft wargame Full Thrust. You should buy it. It's fantastic.
Line Of Sight
To fire at a target a straight line must be traceable from the centre of the firers roof to
the centre of the targets roof within the arc of the firing weapon. Firing arcs are 90
degrees.
[Need Diagram 4 arcs Front, Rear, Left, Right]
Weapons
Weapons are divided into three classes, Guns, Flamethrowers and Dropped Weapons.
Dropped Weapons are detailed in the Movement phase.
Guns are divided into three classes.
Gun Class

Examples

Light

Machine Guns, Light Lasers, Handguns,

Crossbows etc.

Medium

Grenade Launchers, Heavy Lasers, Rocket

Launchers, RPGs etc.

Heavy (see note below)

TOW, Multiple Rocket Launcher systems,

Tank Guns, Anti-Tank Guns, 88s etc.

Heavy Guns are too heavy to be mounted on vehicles so they are included out of a sense
of completeness and for special scenarios involving fixed defences.
When firing Guns, a number of d6 are rolled depending upon the Gun Class and range.
Gun Class

Number of d6 Rolled

Light

1d6 up to 12 range

Medium

2d6 up to 12 range,
1d6 up to 24 range

Heavy

3d6 up to 12 range,
2d6 up to 24 range,
1d6 up to 36 range

Target numbers to hit depend upon speed of the target vehicle. Speed is taken as the
distance plotted for the vehicle in this turn whether or not it has yet to move vehicles
yet to move are not stationary unless they have 0 for their plotted movement. Include
any nitro bonus in the speed of the target.
Speed of Target Vehicle

Target Numbers (d6)

4s and 5s do 2 Hit Points, 6s do 4 Hit Points

1-12

4s and 5s do 1 Hit Points, 6s do 2 Hit Points

13-20

5s and 6s do 1 Hit Point

21+ or Jumping

6s do 1 Hit Point

Flamethrowers
Each Flamethrower attacks as a Light Gun. A successful hit is one that causes damage.
Each time a vehicle is successfully hit by a Flamethrower a fire is started. Mark each
fire on a vehicle with a small piece of painted cotton wool or similar. Vehicles may be
suffering from multiple fires if they take repeated flamethrower hits. At the end of each
turn roll a d6 for each FIRE in the game.
D6 Result
1,2 - Fire goes out and is removed
3,4 - Fire continues to burn vehicle takes 1 Hit Point of damage
5,6 - Fires burns fiercely vehicle takes 2 Hit Points of damage
If the vehicle is fitted with a Fire Extinguisher use the following table instead.
D6 Result
1,2,3,4 - Fire goes out and is removed
5,6 - Fire continues to burn vehicle takes 1 Hit Point of damage
Turrets
When designing a car any or all weapons may be turreted. Each vehicle may only have
one turret (keeps things nice and simple). A turret counts as a Component (see Damage
below) and is liable to loss so that a single turreted weapon is essentially twice as fragile
as a non-turreted one because loss of either turret or weapon will disable it. A
destroyed turret will destroy all weapons within it. If a Flamethrower is in a turret, loss

of the turret destroys the Flamethrower but not the Flame Tank.
Turrets take up space and are heavy they take up a point of Capacity (see 2 - Vehicles)
per weapon fitted in them. A turret with two light weapons will therefore cost 4 points
of Capacity. A turret with a single medium weapon will cost 3 points of capacity.
Optional Rule You might find turrets to be overly powerful and indeed they seem to
become more powerful the smaller the table size becomes. To help balance them you
might find preventing them from firing into the rear 60 degree fire arc makes for
fairer games.

8 DAMAGE
Each circle on a vehicle's record sheet refers to one Hit Point. Once a complete line of
Hit Points circles has been removed, a so-called Threshold Check is reached and each
Component must be checked to see if it is destroyed.
Once the first line of Hit Points is removed, each Component is destroyed on a d6 score
of 6.
Once the second line of Hit Points is removed, each Component is destroyed on a d6
score of 5 or 6.
Once the third line of Hit Points is removed, the vehicle itself is destroyed and the fate
of each Component is somewhat academic with the exception of the Driver who should
will be killed on a d6 score of 4,5 or 6. This will be important if a series of linked games
are being played and in this case Drivers will be killed on a 4,5 or 6 if the vehicle is
destroyed in any fashion (Fuel Tank explosion, hitting a Solid Object etc.)
A destroyed vehicle suffers Loss of Control unless it was stationary.
Check for the following Components after each line is removed. The first group are
present on all vehicles. The second group will be dependent upon the individual
configuration of the vehicle being damaged.
First Group
Fuel Tank If destroyed, vehicle is destroyed in a nice, satisfying fireball. Leave the
vehicle where it is and mark with cotton wool or overturn it.
Driver If destroyed, driver is dead. Vehicle suffers Loss of Control and is abandoned
wherever it ends up.
Engine - On first destroyed result, the engine is actually just damaged and MAX is
immediately halved. On a second destroyed result the engine is actually destroyed and
the vehicles MAX will decrease by 4 per game-turn as the vehicle grinds to a halt.
Steering - On first destroyed result the steering is actually just damaged and the
vehicle's TURN rating is reduced by 1. On a second destroyed result the steering is
actually destroyed and the vehicle's TURN rating is reduced to 0 and may not turn at all.
So-called Steering damage actually covers a multitude of sins including the steering
system itself, wheels, tyres and suspension.
Brakes - If destroyed the vehicles DEC is reduced to 2. If the DEC already was 2 then
that just shows how good your brakes were in the first place!
Second Group
Weapon Each weapon counts as a Component and is lost if destroyed.
Dropped Weapon System Each dropped weapon counts as a Component and is lost if
destroyed.
Turret Each turret counts as a Component and is lost if destroyed, furthermore all
weapons in the turret will be lost along with the turret.
Flame Tank - A vehicle fitted with a Flamethrower must spend a Capacity point on it's
Flame Tank. If destroyed the vehicle is destroyed in another nice, satisfying explosion.
Other Components Each piece of equipment counts as a Component and is lost if
destroyed.

Loss of Control
Vehicles that suffer Loss of Control immediately have a randomized move. Throw a
Games Workshop Scatter Die (or some other form of randomising a direction) and the
vehicle moves off in that direction. The distance moved is dependent upon the speed of
the vehicle, and as noted above in Combat, this is the plotted move (plus nitro bonus if
any) regardless of how little or far the actual vehicle has yet moved in this turn.
Speed of Vehicle

Distance Moved

0 to 12

d6

13 to 20

d6+2

21+

2d6

Once moved, the vehicle's new facing is unimportant but can be randomised if players
want to know. The vehicle misses it's next turn while the driver gets his breath back and
restarts the stalled engine. Once it is able to move the vehicle may be turned to face
any direction at the start of it's move for free.
Designer's Note Yes, this can and will give totally nonsensical skid results that
completely ignore whatever the vehicle was doing before such as which direction it was
actually travelling in. This solution is nice and simple though and I'm not sure that the
silliness of the whole game really calls for anything more involved. If yer knows of a
better 'ole then go to it. Just remember the Giant Robots Kicking The Shit Out Of One
Another and this rule will seem perfectly OK. Honest.

9 -EQUIPMENT LIST & DROPPED WEAPONS

The value in brackets is the Capacity cost required to mount the Weapon or Component.
Each Weapon or Component is liable to be lost at Threshold Check and must be rolled
for.
Light Weapon (1)
Medium Weapon (2)
Turret (1 per weapon included)
Flamethrower (2 - Includes a second Component FLAME TANK - loss of this destroys the
vehicle. The cost for the entire system is 2 Flamethrower and Flame Tank)
Mine Dropper (1)
Spike Dropper (1)
Oil Dropper (1)
Napalm Dropper (1)
Smokescreen Dropper (1)
Ramplates (1) (see note 1)
Heavy Ramplates (2) (see note 1)
Fire Extinguisher (1)
Body Armour/Armoured Cockpit (1 - Driver loss may be re-rolled)
Racing Fuel Cell (1 - Fuel loss may be re-rolled)
Armoured Engine Bay (1 - Engine loss/damage may be re-rolled)
Run-flat Tyres/Armoured Wheels (1 - Steering loss may be re-rolled) (see note 2)
Nitro System (1 - Grants two "uses")
Drag Parachute (1 Allows DEC to be trebled for one turn only)
Note 1 - Ramplates include all manner of offensive equipment such as rams, Chaos
Spikey Bits, buzzsaws, chainsaws, oxyacetylene torches, passengers swinging melee
weapons, wheel scythes and drills. Robot Wars stuff in other words. Heavy Ramplates
are simply larger, spikier, heavier, more unpleasant versions.
Note 2 - Does not grant immunity to Steering DAMAGE if a Spikes template is driven over.
Dropped Weapons
Dropped Weapons are dropped behind the vehicle during it's movement. All Dropped
Weapons have three "drops", each drop is a template 3" x 1.5" in size.
A Vehicle can perform a drop at any point during it's move, so long as it has moved at
least 3" in this game turn. (This rule is prevent the nonsense whereby a Vehicle turns at
the start of the move and immediately drops into space it has never occupied). Place
the relevant template immediately behind the vehicle with the short edge (1.5") against
the rear of the Vehicle or Vehicle base. It is permissible to drop multiple templates in
contact with each other.
Dropped Weapons come in five varieties.
Mines are a small scattering of proximity-fused explosives.
Oil Slicks are oil or ball bearings, designed to make pursuers lose control.
Spikes covers a whole range of pointy, tyre-shredding implements from caltrops, spiked
nets and Police-style "stingers" to the good, old-fashioned box of tin tacks.
Napalm also covers flaming oil and anything liquid and flammable any fire that covers
the ground and burns throughout the game.
Smokescreens are large clouds of smoke that might be oil or phosphorous based and

designed to limit visibility.

If a Vehicle travels over a Mine template, the proximity fuse may detonate. Light
vehicles set off mines on a d6 roll of 4+, Medium on 3+, Heavy on 2+. If a Mine template
detonates, the target immediately takes 2d6 damage and suffers from Loss of Control.
The Mine template is then removed. Undetonated Mine templates are not removed.
If a Vehicle travels over an Oil Slick template, it immediately suffers from Loss of
Control. The Oil Slick template is NOT removed. Light Vehicles may ignore an Oil Slick
template on a roll of 5 or 6 on d6.
If a Vehicle travels over a Spikes template it suffers from DAMAGED steering (actually
the tyres but who's counting?). If the steering was already DAMAGED, the steering is
DESTROYED. The Spikes template is NOT removed.
If a Vehicle travels over a Napalm template it automatically catches Fire. The Napalm
template itself continues to burn and is not removed.
A Smokescreen template blocks all line of sight and so Vehicles may not fire through it.
At the end of each turn (when the effect of fires would be rolled for) roll d6 for each
individual Smokescreen, on a 6 that Smokescreen is removed from the game.
Note that a Vehicle destroyed by a Mine, is destroyed by a Fire caused by Napalm or
suffers Loss of Control from an Oil Slick that causes it to be destroyed in a crash counts
as a "kill" for the player who dropped that template.

10 - SCENARIOS AND OTHER IMPEDIMENTIA

Deathmatch
The classic A&A set-up. The tabletop represents a walled arena somewhere deep in the
wastelands or in a corporate-controlled domed city. Players enter the arena through
blast-doors that close behind them. ("Close the blast-doors! Close the blast-doors!"). The
fight is to death, cheered on a baying crowd.
Set up a table with a few Solid Objects to block Line of Sight and to force the players to
steer around things. Players enter the table on the first turn spaced out roughly evenly
and at Speed 6. It is assumed that blast doors close behind the players and the entire
table edge is therefore a Solid Object of metres-thick concrete. Alternatively in a
wasteland setting this is more likely to be an electric fence or having the arena
surrounded by minefields or radioactive sludge-filled trenches. The game effect is
identical in either case and will destroy any vehicle that hits it.
The winner is the last surviving player.
For further complexity, and assuming all players are in agreement, up to 2d6 Napalm
templates, Oil Slick templates or Spikes templates may be placed in the arena. Up to d6
ramps may be placed in the arena. Up to d6 wrecked vehicles may be placed in the
arena.
Team Games
A Deathmatch can be played in teams. It is helpful if a team's vehicles are identified in
some way such as being all the same colour or similar. Actually, only one team need be
colour-coded so long as no vehicle on the other side has the same colour - that way a
team scenario can be organised between "Team Red" and "Team Not-Red" or similar.
Badlands Ambush
Badlands Ambush is a scenario for two sides. This may be a two player game or a multiplayer one.
In this scenario one side jumps the other. Roll d6 for each side, the high scorer is the
Attacker and the low scorer the Defender.
The Attacker secretly nominates one or two entry points, these may be corners or the
midway points of table edges.
Defender starts in centre of table having nominated a direction of travel. Defenders
vehicles are travelling at 10" and pointing in the direction of travel. If a road terrain
piece is available, it can be laid out to match the direction of the defenders travel with
other terrain features re- arranged to accommodate it but this is purely visual and has
no game effect.
Attacker vehicles then enter within 6" of either of their entry points, but if two entry
points were selected then each entry point must be used by at least one vehicle.
Attacker vehicles start travelling at 15".
Any vehicle that exits the table edge (more than half of it's base off-table) counts as
lost. Each vehicle immobilised or destroyed scores 1 point for the opposition, regards
of cause of that loss. In the result of a draw, the Defender side wins as the Attackers had

the burden of attack and the speed advantage in the first game turn.
Environmental Conditions
Environmental Conditions offer an optional way to add a bit of extra chaos on the
battlefield. There are 6 here so you can randomise them with a d6.
1 - Artillery Bombardment
For some unfathomable reason, the battlefield starts to be used as a firing range by an
army with big guns lurking over the horizon. Each turn turn a ranging shot comes over
the horizon. Randomise it's position by any acceptable means. Any vehicle directly under
the ranging shot is hit for 2d6 damage. Next turn a huge barrage will be coming in
centred on that position. During that next turn any vehicle directly under the ranging
shot takes 2d6 damage and any other vehicle with 6" takes 1d6 damage, any vehicle
within 12" takes 1d3 damage. And of course, another ranging shot is coming in
somewhere else on the turn in which the barrage arrives!
2 - Radiation
Randomly place d6 markers representing radiation hotspots. Each time a vehicle comes
within 6" of one, note a single point of Radiation Exposure to the driver and roll a d6. If
the roll is less than the number of Radiation Exposure points scored by that vehicle, the
driver dies from radiation exposure.
3 - Acid Storm
Like acid rain but more violent and more acidic. At the start of each turn roll a d6. If a
6 is scored the polluted atmosphere dumps acid down upon the battlefield. Each vehicle
rolls a d6 on a 5 or 6 it suffers a single hit to one random SYSTEM.
4 - Night Stages
Due to environmental damage, the day/night cycle is curiously random (perhaps clouds
of radioactive dust block out the sun for a few minutes). At the start of each turn roll a
d6, adding 1 to the result if the last game turn was affected by darkness. If a 6 or 7 is
scored darkness falls momentarily. After any firing is declared, throw 3d6. If the score is
less than the measured range, the firing does not happen as the driver is unsure of his
target. Despite the lack of firing this does count as firing so that the vehicle may not
attempt to fire again this turn.
5 - Cloudbursts
Occasional squalls of heavy rain lash the battlefield. At the start of each turn roll a d6,
adding 1 to the result if the last game turn was affected by a cloudburst. If a 6 or 7 is
scored a cloudburst occurs. All fires and Napalm templates are immediately
extinguished. The maximum firing range becomes 12". DEC rates are reduced by 1.
6 ... And The Crowd Go Wild!
An excitable audience are in tonight, possibly due to the arena promoter spiking the
drinks in the refreshment kiosks. At the start of each turn roll a d6, adding 1 to the
result for each car destroyed in the previous turn. If a 6+ is scored the crowd are driven
into a frenzy by the action and the drivers get driven to new peaks of performance
each vehicle gets one re-roll during the next turn. Unused re-rolls are lost after this turn
of crowd excitement.

Swords, Shields and Deaths-heads

Influenced by a recent film, which itself was probably influenced by a few Kart-racing
videogames. The weapons on the vehicles are all linked to kill-switches controlled by the
overseer of the arena event or race e.g. an evil MILF prison governor. Add a few 1
diameter counters to the table, each marked with a Sword or a Shield. A vehicle cannot
fire it's Light and Medium Weapons until it has run over a Sword. A vehicle cannot fire it's
Dropped Weapons until it has run over a Shield.
Deaths-heads are sunken concrete posts with steel spikes that start the game below the
surface of the table. Represent them with a few 1" diameter counters marked with a
skull. When sunken Deaths-heads can be driven over and ignored. They can be raised by
a Gamesmaster at any point, usually to make life awkward for a driver who is staying
out of the fight or is getting just too good or just too cocky.
Deaths-heads are Solid Objects so destroy any vehicle that hits one, furthermore as the
steel spikes impale the driver's compartment, the Driver will automatically be killed no
re-rolls!
Lady Navigators
Also influenced by a recent film, some televised or Internet-streamed events may have
lady navigators shipped in from the women's prison in the interests of glamour-puss
appeal. Alternatively Queen Bee from the lifer's wing might turn up and as do the job as
well or indeed better than the eye-candy.
If Lady Navigators are being used,they count as a Component but cannot be killed as
they sit in automatic ejector seats. Should they be lost they safely bail out unless the
vehicle is currently indoors in which case the bail out attempt goes horribly and messily
wrong.
Presence of a Lady Navigator grants that vehicle one re-roll.
Lady Navigators fire all Dropped Weapons and these weapons may not be fired if the
Lady Navigator has ejected.
Lady Navigators are also treated as a Fire Extinguisher system for the purposes of
checking Fires.
In a campaign, Lady Navigators score one extra re-roll for each event in which they
survive without ejecting.
Re-rolls
Several rules offer a re-roll. A re-roll is a chance to roll a single die once again but to
always accept the second result even if it is worse. Multiple re-roll cannot be used to reroll that second roll. You may only re-roll one of your own dice.
Optional Rule Allow re-rolls to be spent on forcing re-rolls of opponents dice.
Example
Spikes "Herbie" Written has Body Armour and his experience from an earlier game gives
him a Re-roll. His vehicles takes enough damage to lose his second line of boxes and
Spikes' player rolls a 5 for Component destroyed check on Driver. This would normally

kill Spikes but he uses his Body Armour re-roll. This comes up 6 and still kills Spikes, he
cannot use that second Re-roll to have another go - that second score of 6 is
sacrosanct.
Experience
If players wish to try and keep and improve drivers between games, then those drivers
must be named. Any player who doesn't give their 1:64 alter ego a suitably postapocalyptic name is not getting into the spirit of the thing and must be mocked.
Remorselessly. Only by being named can a driver qualify for experience and take that
into future games.
Drivers in destroyed vehicles are killed on a roll of 4,5,6 on d6 and clearly then the
player must create a new driver and start afresh. Players can use their re-rolls to try and
save a driver at this point if they have any left.
Experience is rated in terms of giving drivers a certain number of re-rolls per game.
After a game re-rolls are awarded for the following actions
Surviving a game - 1 re-roll.
Destroying at least one vehicle - 1 re-roll.
Electric Cars
In the nine fifteen years or so since A&A was originally written, alternative fuels have
started to make an appearance and we actually have electric cars that are starting to
look practical, at least for the commuter who lives near his workplace. What a disaster
for the enthusiastic A&A player! Where we will get our exploding fuel tanks from?
Happily, the Far East manufacturers of knock-off, low quality, dangerous laptop batteries
come to our rescue with battery packs that brew up nicely, scattering corrosive fluids
and molten metal across a wide area. Coupled with the fun of seeing something that is
spinning at 85,000 rpm come adrift of the chassis it's supposed to be securely bolted
down to and we can easily that there is no need to amend the rules for electric motors.
(Or indeed Hydrogen which is even more explosive).

APPENDIX I - Toy Car Conversion

Axles and Alloys is designed for cars of the Hot Wheels/Matchbox size. This is nominally
1:64 but in reality is nothing like as these cars are designed to be of similar sizes and
sized to fit the packaging. Coincidently Matchbox collectors refer to this sizing standard
as 1:Box. Currently these cars retail for 0.99 - 1.50 in the UK and around 99c in the
US. Regardless of actual scale nearly all of these cars fit into a 3" x 1.5" footprint so if
you are basing your model cars I recommend adopting this size as a standard.
Opinion is split as to whether cars should be based or not. I am a great advocate of
basing wargames pieces like tanks and artillery pieces because I feel a groundworked
base complements a model and elevates it from "toy" to "wargames model". With toy
cars though some players feel that a car should still be able to be "whizzed" across the
table so prefer to leave cars unbased and with freely spinning axles. This tactile feel is
important to some players although creates difficulty with leaving cars on slopes.
Supergluing the axles up so that the wheels are locked is an option for players who don't
want to base a car but don't want it rolling about either.
For the business of conversion, I usually arm myself with the following;
Thin cardboard - For rough armour plates. Easily cut and distressed. You get quite a lot
for free with your new Matchbox car! This is generally glossy on one side and rough on
the rear if you bend the card with the rear facing outwards the resulting kink looks
very much like a crude seam weld once painted and drybrushed.
Aluminium Mesh - Intended for car bodywork repairs. Easily cut (with old scissors - new
ones will be ruined very quickly) and can be glued over the glass on the car. Door screen
mesh is also available in the US.
Cocktail Sticks - Excellent spikes for Ram Plates and Heavy Ram Plates, can also have
the tips removed with a hobby knife and then represent metal piping used as improvised
armour.
Corrugated Nails - Available in DIY/Home Improvement stores these are inch long
corrugated pieces of zinc. An excellent scale representation of corrugated iron but be
careful of the functional sharp edges which will need grinding or filing off before use.
Warhammer 40,000 Space Marine Shoulder Pads - These can be glued over the butt end
of a weapon to create a turreted weapon or used as is as large air intakes on bonnets.
Tank baggage 15mm or 20mm scale tank baggage is a good source of backpacks,
bedding rolls, oil drums, toolboxes etc. - just the sort of the thing found strapped to the
backs of the cobbled together vehicles found in any self-respecting desert nomad
community.
Superglue - Lots of this.
For the actual weapons, any firearm in any scale from 6mm to 54mm will do. Loose
modern or sci-fi tank turrets (Ground Zero Games sell loose turrets for conversion
purposes) make excellent light weapons for 1:64 scale cars. Scales around the 15mm to
20mm mark are roughly in scale with the cars. Handguns from larger scales make larger
guns for the cars - a useful example is the Warhammer 40,000 Space Marine boltgun

which, inverted and with the handgrip cut off makes an excellent weapon for this scale
which ends up looking like the Grenade Launcher from Dark Future.
For painting, I usually spray prime the model black and work up from there with heavy
drybrushing involved. Where glass is visible, the "gem" style of painting can be adopted,
blending black to light blue in a rough-and-ready fashion and finishing up with a few
dots or short lines of pure white to represent reflections. For an more in-depth guide to
"gem" painting Google search for Battletech painting guides as this is the way that the
Battletech players paint cockpit canopies.
For a wastelands/badlands type game, cars should be finished in a matt (flat) finish to
represent dust and the bleaching effects of ultraviolet light. Nobody waxes cars after
the apocalypse.
Another option for painting is to keep the original factory-applied paint. As this is quite
glossy it can be difficult to weather so I usually spray the whole model with matt varnish
to kill the sheen and key the surface for drybrushing. This, dependent upon varnish
used, sometimes turns the plastic glass opaque and misty but serendipitously this
disguises the fact that our cars have no drivers. Once done I just drybrush some
weathering all over the car, concentrating on the front, the lower sections and behind
the rear wheels.
Where desired bases can be cut from balsa wood, plasticard or art board. For a desert
feel, the base can be painted a sand colour, repainted with thinned PVA glue and
covered in sand. The model can be then attached to the base by supergluing the
underside of the wheels and applying some pressure (to get the car to sit properly on all
four wheels) while the glue dries.
For a tarmac/asphalt feel, I paint the base grey then cover the top surface with some
glued- down grey wet-and-dry/abrasive paper. It is helpful to cut this slightly undersized
to avoid the edges fraying. Using an old brush I then drybrush the rough surface with a
lighter grey. White or yellow lines can be added to the base by masking a line with
masking tape and roughly damp-brushing paint over the desired area. This creates a
new, worn-out feel to road markings.
Once complete the car can be superglued to the base.
For based cars it is tempting to add rubble, cat litter or lichen for interest but if you do
- go easy on it. It's all too easy to overload a base with interesting scatter and end up
with something that looks like the car won't be able to move from it's position due to
huge boulders and bushes getting in the way.

APPENDIX II - Scaling Up
If you have a modelling bent and plenty of space to play in, A&A can be scaled up to use
models of a larger scale. Cheap 1:43 (again, the scale is very loosely adhered to) toy
cars used to be easily available but the demise of Bburago (the company who seemed to
make the majority of these cars that were on sale in the UK) has limited this. If you can
acquire them though, cheap 1:43 cars fit well with 28mm figures and all 28mm
accessories. The Citadel multi-part plastic figures work well here - your author once
made a 1:43 A&A Porsche with the top half of a Citadel Chaos Marauder leaning out of
the passenger window waving an axe. For 1:43 scale games I suggest you DOUBLE all
measurements.
For a larger scale still there are the 1:24 model kits made by the likes of Monogram,
Tamiya and Hasegawa along with plenty of third party conversion kits. (Some US kits are
actually 1:25 but this difference can overlooked for our purposes - the scale difference
is still nowhere near as bad as with Matchbox style cars). For this scale I suggest your
TREBLE all measurements.
Remember that for larger scales you will need to provide correspondingly larger dropped
weapon templates.

APPENDIX III - Bibliography

If you're at all interested in this automotive combat genre then you should grow up.
Failing that the following sources were inspirational and important in the drunken
conception, gestation, birth, upbringing, neglect, forced expulsion from the family
home, and grudging prodigal son style return of Axles and Alloys.
Film
Mad Max, Mad Max 2. Essential viewing. I refuse to acknowledge the existence of any
Mad Max film that has the number "3" anywhere in it's title. That never happened. At all.
The Cars That Ate Paris. Low budget Aussie movie that paved the way for the original
Mad Max. Cars and attendant insanity come together in a modern day take on the old
"Cornish Wreckers" tale.
Death Race 2000. The original. I haven't seen the modern remake as remakes of classics
make me come out in hives. (Stop Press I have now seen the remake and it isn't really a
remake, so...)
Death Race 2008. Not actually a remake.
Gaming
Dark Future (Games Workshop). Never enjoyed the game but the associated hobby
interest of die-cast conversion was obviously seminal.
Car Wars (SJG). A&A is a reaction against the increasing complexity and unwieldiness of
CW, especially when it branched out into Boat Wars, Tank Wars, Invalid Carriage Wars,
Shopping Trolley Wars and Golf Cart Wars. It remains the Daddy though.
Full Thrust (GZG). Heavily ripped off to produce A&A.
Videogaming
Badlands (Atari Games). Post-apoc Super Sprint.
Smugglers Run 2 (Rockstar). Another take on Crazy Taxi but with an excellent background
of smugglers using off-road cars to smuggle contraband across the borders of war-zones.
Tranz Am (Ultimate Play The Game). ZX Spectrum classic, essentially Rally-X without the
maze.
Carmageddon (SCI). The original is still the best. Cunning Stunt Bonus!

APPENDIX IV Axles and Alloys Classic

The original Axles and Alloys used a different method of turning that involved the use of
protractors (preferably transparent or translucent ones). If you want to revert to this
method, the changes are described below.
1 Vehicles rotate once at the start of their move. All of their movement is then
undertaken in a straight line.
2 A vehicle may rotate in increments of 30 degrees. These equate to numbers on a
clock face taking the vehicle's current direction of travel as being 12 o'clock, the
vehicle may turn anywhere between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. 10, 11, 1 and 2 o'clock are
points between these two extremes, 12 o'clock is simply full speed ahead (and damn the
torpedoes!)
3 All turning is pre-plotted along with the move. All players pick their speed and also
write which clock face they intend to turn to this turn.
4 All movement is simultaneous, for collisions only the end point of vehicles matters.
There is an exception to this rule, see point 5.
5 For running over dropped weapons ONLY, a straight line that runs over a dropped
weapon counter counts as running over it. Solid items of terrain are assumed to be
steered around during the move, only if the move ends upon one is it assumed that a
collision occurred.
6 All shooting is simultaneous after all vehicles have been moved.
7 The first Steering damage event prevents a vehicle from steering to 9 or 3 o'clock.
Destroyed steering prevents a vehicle from steering at all.