Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
!
IN
W
ry 87
xu h
f lu ort
xo w
bo es
A olat
oc
ch
SEASIDE
STAYS
BRITTANY
Secret
beaches
The best
hotels, B&Bs
and villas
How to find
your own
little haven
JONATHAN
MEADES
on living in
Le Corbusiers
Cit Radieuse
Rocamadour
Take a stroll around the world-famous pilgrimage site
VICHY
The charming
spa town with
a dark history
the language
CLOCHEMERLE
THE WINE-LOVING VILLAGE
IN FACT AND IN FICTION
3.99
SALADE NIOISE
WHY GREEN BEANS HAVE NO
PLACE IN THE REAL THING
YOUR
ESSENTIAL
GUIDE TO FRANCE
Contact us
www.bargecolibri.com
Tel. +33 675 330 949 | info@bargecolibri.com
Owner/Operator
BIENVENUE
Carolyn Boyd
Editor
CONTRIBUTORS
Ray Kershaw
Yorkshire-based Ray has been
writing about France for 40
years and won many awards
for his work with FRANCE and
UK newspapers. On page 44, he visits
the Beaujolais village that inspired the
famous 1930s comic novel Clochemerle.
www.completefrance.com
Anthony Lambert
Anthony, who has written or
contributed to ten travel
books, first fell in love with
France on a ferry trip to
Boulogne as a child, and he has a particular
interest in French history and architecture. He
retraces the Battle of Agincourt on page 58.
Kate Mosse
Novelist and regular FRANCE
contributor Kate is celebrating
ten years since the publication
of the best-seller Labyrinth,
which has been translated into more than
30 languages. On page 33, she describes her
experiences of Carcassonne market.
FRANCE MAGAZINE 3
CONTENTS
July 2015
36
WIN
TRAVEL
08 FRANCE AT A GLANCE
Let our stunning images take you on
a whistle-stop tour of France.
17 PRT PARTIR
Plan your next trip with our round-up
of travel news and events, and route map.
26 ROUND TRIP
Drive along the picturesque Loire Valley
between the cities of Angers and Nantes.
58 AGINCOURT
Explore the battlefield where Henry V
triumphed over the French 600 years ago.
11
.
BON APPTIT
75 BREAKING BREAD
36 SEASIDE STAYS
44 CLOCHEMERLE
JOIE DE VIVRE
15 STEPHEN CLARKE
85 TAKE HOME
52 BRITTANY SECRETS
33 MARKET VIGNETTE
86 VINEYARD VISITS
SUBSCRIBE TODAY! SEE PAGE 43 FOR DETAILS OF OUR LATEST GIFT OFFER
4 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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GREAT PRIZES
TO BE WON
63
26
75
58
52
EVERY MONTH
72 HISTORY TRAIL
24 TRAVELLERS TALES
89 SYLVIE TESTUD
28 NEWS
90 REVIEWS
LA CULTURE
92 LANGUAGE
94 LANGUAGE GAMES
96 HOLIDAY RENTALS
www.completefrance.com
PAGE 58
23 HOLIDAY PLANNER
PAGE 93
PAGE 8
PAGE 52
PAGE 17
PAGE 86
PAGE 36 PAGE 26
PAGE 18
PAGE 39
PAGE 63
PAGE 22
PAGE 44
PAGE 68
PAGE 41
PAGE 76
PAGE 80
PAGE 72 PAGE 78
PAGE 12
PAGE 106
PAGE 40
ON THE COVER
FRANCE MAGAZINE 5
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ABOUT US
FRANCE Magazine is Britain and
North Americas best-selling
magazine about France. Since 1990,
it has enchanted readers with its
stunning photography and excellent
travel writing. Alongside its
inspirational and informative travel
articles, FRANCE Magazine offers
features on food and wine, language
and history, culture and current
affairs; together, it gives readers
the perfect taste of the very best of
France. It truly is the next best thing
to being there.
WE ALSO PUBLISH
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QUI SOMMES-NOUS ?
FRANCE Magazine est une
publication de premire qualit,
rdige en anglais et consacre
exclusivement la France. Depuis
1990, cette publication mensuelle
la rputation inconteste, domine
le march francophile en GrandeBretagne et aux tats-Unis. A travers
des articles de voyage, des rubriques
gastronomiques et linguistiques,
FRANCE Magazine invite ses
lecteurs dcouvrir tous les
meilleurs aspects de lHexagone
et de ses produits.
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2013
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8 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
POIGNANT REMINDER
www.completefrance.com
SPLASH OF COLOUR
10 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
MIGHTY CLIMB
A steep staircase zigzags its way up to the baroque Basilique
Saint-Michel-Archange in the resort of Menton on the Cte dAzur
PHOTOGRAPH: FOTOLIA
CAMARGUE CELEBRATION
A woman in Arlsienne costume at the Abrivado festival a gathering
of the Camargue gardians (cowboys) in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
PHOTOGRAPH: DREAMSTIME
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 11
PYRENEAN PERFECTION
A cyclist takes a break to admire the dramatic landscape
around the Col de Pailhres in the Pyrnes
PHOTOGRAPH: DREAMSTIME
EVENING GLOW
12 FRANCE MAGAZINE
COLUMN
In the city
How to be
a Parisian
Paris-based Stephen Clarke gives his
expert advice on life in urban France
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 15
PRT PARTIR
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 17
READY TO GO
View for
a thrill
The classic location for the
Quatorze Juillet fireworks in
Paris is the Champ de Mars
next to the Eiffel Tower. But
if you prefer not to share
a park with 300,000
revellers, we can suggest
more intimate venues that
still provide a great view
On a Seine dinner cruise
Floating by the Eiffel Tower with a glass
of champagne in your hand, watching the
lights from a bateau is an indulgent way
to enjoy Frances Fte Nationale.
A 14 July Special Dinner Cruise costs
104pp, including a 2hr 45min trip along
the River Seine, dinner with champagne,
music, dancing and a stop to watch the
fireworks, which start at about 11pm.
www.francetourisme.fr
At street level
From Place de Breteuil in the 7th
arrondissement, you can look down the
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 19
READY TO GO
Oxford
H
DID YOU
KNOW? s ruled
ux wa
The city of Bordea
1152 when
m
fro
by the English
aine married
Eleanor of Aquit
et, who later
en
Henry Plantag
y II of England
nr
He
g
Kin
became
the Hundred
until the end of
1453.
in
r
Wa
s
Year
- ERNEST
HEMINGWAY
20 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.mfo.ac.uk), a research
institute founded after World
War II for the Universities
of Paris and Oxford. The
centre organises programmes
and workshops throughout
the year for scholars and
visitors alike.
For a tasty lunch, head to
Pierre Victoire, an independent
French restaurant that prides
itself on its expertly cooked
traditional fare at affordable
prices; signature dishes include
moules marinires, fondue
savoyarde and onglet
lchalote (tel: 01865 316 616,
www.pierrevictoire.co.uk).
Round off
your day with
a visit to the
Phoenix
Picturehouse
(tel: 0871 902 5736, www.
picturehouses.co.uk/cinema/
Phoenix_Picturehouse). This
two-screen art-house cinema
shows a range of French films,
sometimes without English
subtitles, so it provides
audiences with a great chance
to immerse themselves in the
language.
Peter Stewart
For more on the city visit
www.oxfordcity.co.uk
WIN!
Our resident
snail is
en vacances
do you know
where she is?
LUXURY
HANDMADE
CHOCOLATES
If you know the village made famous for confectionery that Sergette is visiting, send the
answer, plus your name and address, to editorial@francemag.com or write us a postcard
(address on page 6) and you could win a 15-piece assortment of luxury handmade chocolates
that come in an elegant mahogany box (worth a total of 87) courtesy of French chocolatier
ZChocolat (www.zchocolat.com). Deadline for entries is 8 July, 2015.
The winner of the May competition is Ms Julie Shaw, from St Neots, Cambridgeshire, who
correctly identified the city of Dijon, capital of Burgundy.
www.completefrance.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: FOTOLIA
Find a French
connection on
your doorstep
Walking in
Provence
24 years of walking
holidays in France
Discover beautiful
northern Provence
on foot
Wonderful hikes,
company, food and
wine all Ive come
to expect from Hilary
Louise S.
www.provencewalk.com
www.trekkinginprovence.com
Also French, Swiss and Italian
Alps and Corsica, Summer hiking
and Winter snowshoeing trips
www.trekkinginthealps.com
For more info, contact Hilary
Email: hilaryalp@gmail.com
Tel: +33 682 654 214
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 21
Brive
Brive doesnt sound
familiar. Where is it
and why should I go?
Youll like Brive; its an
attractive town in the
Corrze dpartement
on the border between
Limousin and Prigord.
Brive-la-Gaillarde (to
give its full title) is
within easy reach of
the Dordogne Valley,
but is a little off the
beaten track, so you
wont be swamped by
other tourists if you
visit in the summer.
TRAVEL
NEWS
NORMANDY CAEN-NECTION
Anyone looking to travel to Caen this
summer will now have more choice with
news that Flybe is extending its London
Southend service to the Normandy city.
The route, which is operated by Stobart Air
and was launched last summer, has taken
more than 10,000 passengers across the
Channel. The airline will increase the
number of flights to six per week from
11 July until 29 August. Single fares from
41.18. www.flybe.co.uk
FAMILY FUN
Holiday company Pierre & Vacances has
just made booking one of its holidays even
easier for families, with the option to book
a range of meal and activity packages in
advance. The new selection of Formula
Club offers includes half-board options,
unlimited access to childrens clubs and
tailor-made inclusive activities such as
sports tournaments and nature hikes.
www.pierreetvacances.com
22 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: FOTOLIA
FREE SPIRIT
READY TO GO
ROUTE PLANNER
Plan your journey to France with our handy map and directory
FERRIES
Brittany Ferries
Tel: 0871 244 1400
www.brittany
ferries.co.uk
Condor Ferries
Tel: 0845 609 1024
www.condor
ferries.co.uk
DFDS Seaways
Tel: 0871 574 7235
www.dfdsseaways.co.uk
Irish Ferries
Tel: (ROI) 818 300 400
www.irishferries.com
www.completefrance.com
MyFerryLink
Tel: 0844 248 2100
www.myferrylink.com
P&O Ferries
Tel: 0871 664 2121
www.poferries.com
Stena Line
Tel: (ROI) 1 204 7777
www.stenaline.ie
Price comparison and
booking website
AFerry.co.uk
Tel: 0844 576 5503
www.aferry.co.uk
RAIL
Eurostar
Tel: 0843 218 6186
www.eurostar.com
Eurotunnel
Tel: 0844 335 3535
www.eurotunnel.com
Voyages-sncf.com
Tel: 0844 848 5848
www.voyages-sncf.com
AIRLINES
Aer Lingus
Tel: 0871 718 2020
www.aerlingus.com
Air France
Tel: 0871 663 3777
www.airfrance.co.uk
CityJet
Tel: 0871 405 2020
www.cityjet.com
Monarch
Tel: 0871 940 5040
www.monarch.co.uk
easyJet
Tel: 0330 365 5000
www.easyjet.com
Norwegian
Tel: 0843 378 0888
www.norwegian.com
Blue Islands
Tel: 0845 620 2122
www.blueislands.com
Flybe
Tel: 0371 700 2000
www.flybe.com
Ryanair
Tel: 0871 246 0000
www.ryanair.com
bmi regional
Tel: 0330 333 7998
www.bmiregional.com
Jet2
Tel: 0800 408 1350
www.jet2.com
British Airways
Tel: 0844 493 0787
www.britishairways.com
Lyddair
Tel: 01797 322 207
www.lyddair.com
Titan Airways
Tel: 01279 680 616
www.titan-airways.co.uk
FRANCE MAGAZINE 23
Travellers tales
What was your
last travel
experience in
France?
A professional...
Rgine Godfrey
Norwich, Norfolk
24 FRANCE MAGAZINE
Alexandra Pinhorn
Magellan PR,
Portsmouth
A contributor...
What is your
best insider
tip on
France?
A reader...
Carole Penfold
Smallfield, Surrey
Where
would you
like to go
next?
www.completefrance.com
This month we
ask a reader,
a professional
and a FRANCE
contributor
about their love
of France
ADVERTISING FEATURE
Rouen
A weekend in
Round TRIP
Cornill-les-Caves
Angers
Ancenis
Bouchemaine
Rochefort-sur-Loire
Brissac-Quinc
Nantes
DAY ONE
Your journey along the Loire Valley
begins in Angers, the historical capital of
Anjou, which is a 2hr 20min drive from
the ferry ports of Saint-Malo and Caen,
or a 1hr 35min train ride from Paris.
Stroll through the historic centre, with its
half-timbered houses and pretty htels
particuliers, towards the chteau 1 ,
which once belonged to the Plantagenet
dynasty and now houses the medieval
Apocalypse Tapestry (tel: (Fr) 2 41 86 48
77, www.angers.monuments-nationaux.fr).
26 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
EASY ITINERARY
6
chteau. Park by the river and explore
the charming centre.
Continue along the D723 to Nantes,
follow signs for the Gare SNCF and look
out for Rue Frdric Cailliaud, home to
the Htel Sozo 3 , which is set in
a renovated 19th-century chapel (tel: (Fr)
2 51 82 40 00, www.sozohotel.fr). Have
a meal at one of the restaurants along
Boulevard Stalingrad before returning to
the hotel, your base for two nights.
DAY TWO
www.completefrance.com
DAY THREE
FRANCE MAGAZINE 27
ACTUALITS
Keep up to date with all the
latest news from France
MAIN PICTURE: Pupils in French classrooms are facing controversial alterations in the
subjects they study; FACING PAGE: Education Minister Najat Vallaud-Belkacem
Shake-up in class
he French Education
Ministers plans to reform the
school curriculum for 11 to
15 year olds have met furious
opposition from teaching unions,
intellectuals and politicians right across
the political spectrum.
Najat Vallaud-Belkacem, at 37 the
youngest and first woman ever to fill the
post, has proposed to end what the
government describes as elitism in the
collges, or middle schools, effectively by
ending the provision of Latin and Greek,
scrapping bilingual classes for the few,
extending the study of two European
languages to all 11 year olds and
introducing more practical crosscurricular projects.
Opponents say the measures will
mean mediocrity instead of equality,
and make Latin and Greek the preserve
28 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
NEWS
The system
encourages and
produces failure,
exclusion, despair
NEWS
IN BRIEF
The 160th edition of
Le Pett Larousse is to
include selfie. It will be
added along with 150
other new words such
as focaccia and vegan.
However, despite the
inclusion, it is only the
Acadmie Franaise that
www.completefrance.com
A Matisse painting
looted by the Nazis from
Paul Rosenberg, a Jewish
art dealer, is to be
returned to his heirs.
Among the beneficiaries
will be his granddaughter
Anne Sinclair, ex-wife of
Dominique StraussKahn, the former head
of the IMF. Experts have
estimated its value at
60 million.
Cest qui?
Every month we cast a spotlight
on a figure making headlines
Name: Marina Picasso.
Occupation: Philanthropist.
Tell me more: As granddaughter of
the artist Pablo Picasso, Marina was
heir to a huge hoard of the artists
work and La Californie, the 1920s
villa near Cannes where the artist
lived with his second wife
Jacqueline Roque.
Marina, 64, got
her inheritance when
she was 22 and sold
many of the works to
fund a childrens
hospital in Vietnam
and projects to assist
troubled teenagers
and the elderly in
Switzerland. Three of
Marinas five children
were adopted from Vietnam.
In May she announced the sale
of La Californie and told Nice-Matin
newspaper the house held painful
memories. Her father, Paulo, was
Picassos son by his first wife Olga
Khokhlova, the Russian ballerina.
Marina recalls she and her brother
Pablito being sent by her hard-up
father to La Californie to beg for
money from her grandfather.
Jacqueline Roque, his second wife,
frequently subjected them to long
waits at the gates, and also barred
them from Picassos funeral in 1973.
Rumours suggest that Marina,
who renovated La Californie and
renamed it Pavillon de Flore, has
received an offer of 150 million for
the property. She also plans to sell
126 of the artists ceramics, which
Sothebys expects to achieve around
8 million at auction. Picassos
Women of Algiers recently went for
115 million the most expensive
painting ever sold at auction.
On this occasion Marina has said
she will use the money raised to
fund projects for teenagers and the
elderly in France.
FRANCE MAGAZINE 29
30 FRANCE MAGAZINE
Hebdo cartoonist
quits magazine
Rnald Luz Luzier, the Charlie Hebdo
cartoonist, has announced that he will
leave the satirical magazine following
the shooting dead of 12 of his
colleagues by two Islamic extremists.
Luzier, who penned the magazines
front-cover cartoon of the Prophet
Mohammed in the immediate
aftermath of the attack, revealed that
continuing to work at Charlie Hebdo was too much to bear.
His resignation follows reports of staff unrest at the magazine, with some
of the surviving journalists now demanding an equal share in the ownership of
what has become a top-selling publication. Zineb El Rhazoui, an outspoken
Charlie Hebdo journalist who has expressed her unhappiness at how the
magazine is being run, claims management has initiated disciplinary action.
www.completefrance.com
La grande
question
Sarkozy seeks to
re-name party
YOUR BREAK IN
CHAMPAGNE !
Your trip in Champagne
with friends !
Special offer on double room :
Cosy and relaxing stay
HTEL - RESTAURANT
French regional
gastronomic cuisine
FOR SALE
www.completefrance.com
PLACES
Vignette
Carcassonne
market
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 33
Constant inspiration
Unfortunately, I didnt discover
FRANCE Magazine until the spring of
1995, so I missed the first few editions.
Since then it has been a constant source
of inspiration for places to visit and
things to do. Therefore I was very
interested in the May edition, which
marked the 200th issue by naming the
200 best experiences in France.
As I read the magazine I began to
wonder just how many of these
experiences I had enjoyed myself
(including only the named restaurant,
hotel or vineyard, where given) and
started counting. I was amazed to
discover that I had chalked up no fewer
than 73 of your top 200 in the 20 years
that I have been a subscriber.
On reflection, why should I be
surprised, when FRANCE Magazine has
been my inspiration for those places to
visit? Thank you for giving me 20 years
of fantastic experiences. I look forward
to the next 200 inspirational issues!
Adrian Walter
Hertford
YOUR LETTERS
READER POLL
YES
56%
No
44%
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 35
Where to stay...
Beside the sea
LHERMITAGE BARRIRE,
La Baule
There is something undeniably soulstirring about waking up to the sight and
sounds of the sea. From my bedroom
balcony, I wipe slumber from my eyes
while watching the hazy morning sunshine
spread across the cobalt-blue ocean as it
laps softly at swathes of golden sand.
Im staying in the five-star
LHermitage Barrire hotel, which
occupies a prime position along the
seafront promenade of La BauleEscoublac. The resort in the LoireAtlantique dpartement is not only
blessed with a nine-kilometre beach
36 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
WHERE TO STAY
THE BEACHHOUSE,
Gironde
A trip to the seaside is a chance for
a good old-fashioned holiday where you
get back to basics. This 1930s house lies
just five minutes from Girondes Atlantic
coast and is full of charm. Original
features, bleached floorboards and
vintage touches evoke childhood holidays
and memories of sun-drenched trips to
the beach armed with buckets and
spades, blankets and picnic hampers.
The house has seven bedrooms but
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 37
38 FRANCE MAGAZINE
LES CRIQUES DE
PORTEILS, Pyrnes-Orientales
Camping holidays and five-star luxury
are not two things you would
automatically put together but the two
go hand in hand at Les Criques de
Porteils. The Mediterranean setting
alone, between Collioure and Argelssur-Mer, is enough to make this
a memorable experience. Hard-core
campers can pitch their tents while
campervans and caravans are also
welcome. You can hire a mobile home or
choose to unfurl your sleeping bag in
a Polynesian-style wooden cottage or
far. Car-free visitors can reserve pitches
with easy access to the coastal path for
walks towards Argels and Collioure.
At the on-site restaurant you can dine
on Catalan dishes and enjoy panoramic
views over the resorts private beaches.
Nature lovers will lap up the rocky
coastline and secluded coves while
watersports fans can explore this heritage
area by stand-up paddleboard or
immerse themselves in the azure waters
of the Cerbre-Banyuls marine reserve
on a scuba dive.
Corniche de Collioure RD114
66701 Argels-sur-Mer
Tel: (Fr) 4 68 81 12 73
www.lescriques.co.uk
Camping pitches from 24.50 per night;
mobile homes from 299 per week.
www.completefrance.com
Htel du Parc,
Hardelot,
Nord-Pas-de-Calais
WHERE TO STAY
Rsidence de France,
La Rochelle
As the name suggests, the Rsidence
de France wants to recreate the
experience of visiting an ambassadorial
home, where guests are pampered and
introduced to the finer things in life.
While there is no platter of Ferrero
Rocher in the foyer, there is certainly
a sense that guests at this La Rochelle
hotel, part of the Chteaux & Htels
Collection, are being spoilt rotten.
Stroll through the labyrinthine
ground floor and you discover
a delightful courtyard complete with
heated swimming pool that is ideal
for a late-afternoon glass of champagne
(the nearby bar runs 24 hours) or
a sunning session on one of the
deckchairs that are scattered around.
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 39
40 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
WHERE TO STAY
VILLA BIDART,
Pyrnes-Atlantiques
The Basque Country is known for its
stout homes, painted white with lime and
half-timbered in red and now you have
the chance to stay in one. This villa, in
the village of Bidart, has direct access to
the beach and mixes traditional Basque
architecture with modern comforts
including a state-of-the-art kitchen and
heated infinity pool. Light and airy, the
house has six en-suite bedrooms and
plenty of windows to take advantage of
the glorious views.
The villa overlooks the Cte Basque,
which has some of the best surfing in
Europe as well as being home to several
golf courses and hydrotherapy spas; the
area is great for walkers, too. If you want
to take it easy, spend a day browsing the
chic shops of nearby Biarritz or visit the
little fishing port of Saint-Jean-de-Luz for
a traditional lunch of toro, a stew of fish
and peppers.
64210 Bidart
Tel: 0800 133 7999
www.oliverstravels.com
Sleeps 12; from 6,288 per week.
Htel Oceania,
Saint-Malo
For those seeking a relaxing seaside
stay close to the UK, the fortified town
of Saint-Malo on the Brittany coast
makes an excellent choice. The Oceania
Saint-Malo is a stones throw from the
winding streets of the old town,
enjoying a prime location along
a promenade overlooking the widest
stretch of the Plage du Sillon.
The building is an ultra-modern,
glass-fronted affair with huge doors
leading into a lobby that shouts design
hotel, with its sleek minimalist
interiors, oak-coloured parquet floors
and colourful wedge furniture.
I had arrived with my family quite
early in the day, having just got off the
ferry, but the helpful check-in staff
were happy to hand us the keys to two
top-floor rooms. I opened my door and
gasped in admiration at what lay
before me: an incredibly spacious
room, lined with egg-shell white walls,
a huge double bed, wall-to-wall
wardrobes and a super-size whirlpool
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 41
42 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 43
The real
Clochemerle
44 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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46 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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CLOCHEMERLE
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 47
Beaujolais in brief
North to south, Beaujolais
extends 58 kilometres with
altitudes up to 700 metres.
Around 2,500 growers have
estates, with an average size
of just under ten hectares.
Red Beaujolais is made
exclusively from gamay noir
jus blanc grapes. More
than half the worlds gamay
grows here.
Beaujolais should be served
between 13C and 15C err
always on the cool side.
48 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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CLOCHEMERLE
AOC Beaujolais-Villages:
This appellation covers
38 villages in the centre of
the region and produces
blue-blooded Beaujolais,
each as different as its
maker. A place to make
discoveries and many
new friends.
AOC Beaujolais: Nearly
80 wine-devoted villages
spangle the east and the
southern Beaujolais des
Pierres Dores. Without
prestigious Crus, they have
to work harder. Most wines
are made to drink young,
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From the summit ramparts our view stretches from the Alps
to the Massif Central. The villages of Beaujolais dot the endless
vineyards like chequers on a board. Down there countless
pickers are cheerfully toiling from morning to night.
Then with a shock of sudden stillness, as abruptly as it
started, serenity returns. In thousands of cellars, two weeks
earlier than usual, grape juice is bubbling, turning into
wine. Clochemerles vineyards are deserted except for
rooks gleaning unpicked grapes. Gilded by the sunset, the
vines look their most beautiful just after the vendange:
an autumnal sense of slumbering towards another hibernation,
towards yet another spring. Give or take a few urinals and
other trifles of modernity, nothing much has changed here
for 1,000 years.
What better setting for an ever-fresh novel about a France
that remains buoyantly immutable? To penetrate its mysteries,
its puzzling-to-outsiders cohesions and dichotomies (often
puzzling too to natives), there may never be a better handbook
than Clochemerle or, for that matter, a better holiday read for
a raunchy French laugh.
On the third Thursday in November Beaujolais Nouveau
will flood across the world, but meanwhile there will be
a chance to enjoy vin bourru, the still-fermenting grape juice as
effervescent as champagne.
As for Beaujolais wines as a whole, journalists on the weekly
Beaujolais Patriote predict that 2014 Clochemerles 80th
birthday will be the greatest vintage ever. Along with all of
Beaujolais tonight well drink to both.
Turn to the next page for travel information.
FRANCE MAGAZINE 49
Factfile
WHERE TO STAY
AND EAT
WHERE TO EAT
La Feuille
Le Bourg
69620 Theiz
Tel: (Fr) 4 74 71 22 19
www.restaurantlafeuillee.com
A member of Bistrots
Beaujolais (see book
selection), this restaurant
serves ribsticking regional
menus du jour for 14.50.
Auberge de
Clochemerle
FOR AN APRO
Place de la Mairie
69460 Le Perron
Tel: (Fr) 4 74 03 20 66
www.restaurant-lacloche.fr
Drop by for a drink or stop
for a good-value lunch:
three courses including
a glass of wine for 11.
50 FRANCE MAGAZINE
La Cloche
ATTRACTIONS
Hameau du Vin
71570 Romanche-Thorins
Tel: (Fr) 3 85 35 22 22
www.hameauduvin.com
George Dubuf,
Beaujolaiss biggest wine
merchant, has created
a hamlet next to his
headquarters celebrating
the regions heritage.
Attractions include period
restaurants, gardens,
Napolons imperial rail
carriage, a shop stocking
wines from every Beaujolais
village and a 4D cinema
that flies you over the
region in a tour that leaves
audiences shaken, stirred
Domaine Longre
Le Duchamp
69460 Le Perron
Tel: (Fr) 4 74 03 27 63
www.domaine-longere.com
Jean-Luc and his wife
Rgine welcome visitors to
their ancient vaulted cave,
Chteau de Grandmont
336 Impasse de Grandmont
69460 Blac
Tel: (Fr) 4 74 67 59 04
www.chateaude
grandmont.com
A bit difficult to find, deep
among the vineyards of
Beaujolais profond, but
worth seeking out to buy
Christopher Pipers vinous
masterworks. The vineyard
has been in Jean Brac de la
Perrires family since 1603.
Open weekdays 8am-noon
and 2pm-6pm; weekends by
appointment.
RECOMMENDED
READING
Clochemerle is published in
the UK by Vintage Classics,
priced 8.99, and in French
by Le Livre de Poche, priced
6.30.
La Peur, Chevalliers great
anti-war novel, was first
published in English in
www.completefrance.com
GETTING THERE
Brittanys
HIDDEN
BEACHES
52 FRANCE MAGAZINE
BRITTANY BEACHES
BEST FOR:
A NATURAL
SETTING
BEST FOR:
SURFERS
PLAGE DU LONGCHAMP,
Saint-Lunaire
ACCESS: West of the main beach at Saint-Lunaire
continue up the hill and over into the next bay.
Crazy golf and ice cream draws most people to the Grande
Plage in Saint-Lunaire, just west of Dinard, but if you are
prepared to venture slightly further, there is an offbeat little
beach backed by a short promenade and a decent campsite.
A surfing school will suit anyone who is not content to sit
back all day in a deckchair, whereas those who prefer to relax
even further can enjoy a massage in a beachside cabin. The
beach also has a small restaurant selling ice creams and fresh
seafood. www.saint-lunaire.com
www.completefrance.com
BEST FOR:
TRADITIONAL
BREAKS
FRANCE MAGAZINE 53
BEST FOR:
SECLUSION &
NATURISM
BEST FOR:
SHELLFISH
LE MOLNE, les Ponant
ACCESS: By boat from Brest via Le Conquet (90min)
or from Le Conquet (30min).
The le Molne is the biggest of the Ponant islands, which lie off
the most western tip of Brittany. The lengthy ferry trip
(Compagnie Maritime Penn ar Bed; www.pennarbed.fr) and the
35 return fare in high season means that only the very
determined are likely to explore the island and its beaches.
The green, low-lying island, which resembles a Pacific atoll
in the summer sun, is ringed almost entirely by silver-sanded
beaches. You can wander along the coastal path that also
circumnavigates the island until you find the perfect spot.
Scavenging mussels, razor clams and sea snails at low tide
(pche pied) is a popular beach activity. www.molene.fr
54 FRANCE MAGAZINE
BEST FOR:
SWIMMERS
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BRITTANY BEACHES
PLAGE DE PENTHIVRE,
Presqule de Quiberon
PLAGE DE DONNANT,
Belle-le-en-Mer
BEST FOR:
DRAMA
BEST FOR:
ADRENALIN
SEEKERS
BEST FOR:
PICNICS
CONLEAU, Vannes
ACCESS: Tidal island connected
by a causeway to Vannes.
Parking on the causeway.
There is only a small sandy beach on
Conleau, on the northern edge of the
Golfe du Morbihan, but it is popular
with the Vannetais at lunchtimes and
after work. It is an oasis of calm within
walking distance of the town centre.
Families picnic under the pine trees
www.completefrance.com
while office
workers enjoy
a drink on the quayside
or a crpe in the tea
house. Everyone can cool off in
the safety of the sea-water swimming
pool. http://en.tourisme-vannes.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 55
BEST FOR:
SWIMMERS
& NATURE
LOVERS
ALL AGES
56 FRANCE MAGAZINE
BEST FOR:
A WALK
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BEST FOR:
58 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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Duel for
the crown
AGINCOURT
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 59
60 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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AGINCOURT
Francofile
Explore the battlefield
of Agincourt
GETTING THERE
By road: Azincourt is 1hr from the
northern ferry ports. Leave the A26
at junction four and follow the D77,
D157 and D928 before turning off at
the D71 to the village.
By rail/road: Reaching the nearest
station to Azincourt would involve
several changes. The simplest way
is to take the train from London to
Calais (from 72 return, tel: 0844
848 4070, www.voyages-sncf.com)
and then hire a car.
TOUR
History tour specialist Martin
Randall Travel is running trips to the
battlefields of Agincourt, Crcy and
Waterloo, led by military historian
Major Gordon Corrigan, on 6-10 July
and 2-6 Sept (tel: 0208 742 3355,
www.martinrandall.com).
Tel: (Fr) 3 21 03 33 33
www.lacourderemi.com
This hotel, about 20 minutes drive
from Azincourt, lies in the
converted stables of a chteau
used as the British Tank Corps
headquarters in World War I. Rooms
have exposed beams, stone and
brick, and large bathrooms. Doubles
from 85. Chef Sbastien de la
Borde creates generous country
cooking in the excellent restaurant.
Menu 32.
WHERE TO VISIT
Centre Historique Mdival
24 Rue Charles VI
62310 Azincourt
Tel: (Fr) 3 21 47 27 53
www.azincourt1415.fr
Open daily 10am-6pm, closed
Tuesdays from Nov-March, closed
25 Dec, 1 Jan. Admission 7.50.
VISIT THE
BATTLEFIELD
Agincourt is not an easy battlefield
to take in. Between Fruges and Hesdin
turn east off the D928 on to the D71
to the village of Azincourt. Past the
museum building is a large rectangle
of roads, some single-track, which
encompasses the battlefield. The woods
of Tramecourt and Azincourt, which
flanked the battlefield, remain in
much-reduced form; the land is entirely
agricultural and little changed from
1415, but there is no vantage point
over the whole area.
To understand the battle and
appreciate the disposition of the
armies, visit the Azincourt Centre
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 61
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Testing the
waters in Vichy
Amid the belle-poque splendours of its buildings
and parks, Paul Lamarra finds a spa town still
coming to terms with its wartime role
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 63
64 FRANCE MAGAZINE
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: The art
nouveau glass canopy
at the entrance to
the casino; A travel
poster from the
mid-1920s; Place
Victor Hugo; Taking
the spa waters in the
early 1900s; Water
taps at the Halles des
Sources; Sweet treats
at the Confiserie aux
Marocains; The
covered promenade
in the Parc des
Sources; PREVIOUS
PAGE: The faade of
the htel de ville
Belle-poque drink
It seemed to make perfect sense: a belle-poque
drink for a belle-poque town, but on that point
Philippe felt uneasy. It is a well preserved town,
he ventured. It is also a small town, but it is known
for much more and the Vichy brand only works in
Asia where it doesnt have such negative
connotations. The Vichyssois were not ptainistes
Paris came to us, Philippe added.
A few doors up, an art dealer had a similar
complaint. It was four years of the French
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VICHY
www.completefrance.com
Unofficial memorial
FRANCE MAGAZINE 65
GETTING THERE
WHERE TO STAY
66 FRANCE MAGAZINE
WHERE TO EAT
Restaurant LEtna
65 Rue de Paris
03200 Vichy
Tel (Fr): 4 70 98 47 85
www.etna-vichy.com
It might be heresy, but Restaurant
LEtna is more than a match for the
traditional French Escargot Qui Tette
TIME
FOR AN
APRO
Le Petit
Pot
Htel Chambord
82-84 Rue de Paris
03200 Vichy
Tel (Fr): 4 70 30 16 30
www.hotel-chambord-vichy.com
Family-run gourmet restaurant with
menus from 22.
36 Rue Lucas
03200 Vichy
Tel: (Fr) 4 70 98 29 62
This caf on the corner with
Rue du Paris and Rue Georges
Clemenceau is just the place to sit
and watch the world go by.
www.completefrance.com
Francofile
ABOVE: Salle
Napolon III in the
towns casino
3.50
including
FREE delivery
to the UK
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 67
Rocamadour
Following in the footsteps of thousands of pilgrims,
Carolyn Boyd explores the village in the Dordogne Valley
with one of the most spectacular settings in France
68 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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VILLAGE
LEFT: The view of Rocamadour from the base of the Alzou Valley
ABOVE: One of the many shrines along the path that zigzags down to the gate
of the Cit Religieuse, where most of the villages key sites are found
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 69
ROCAMADOUR
AT A GLANCE
Stay the night at Les Esclargies (tel:
(Fr) 5 65 38 73 23, www.esclargies.com,
a pleasant four-star hotel close to
the Chteau de Rocamadour. The
16-room hotel has a swimming pool
and nice gardens. Rooms from 76,
breakfast 12.
Stop for a coffee (and crpe) at
Brasserie lEsplanade (tel: (Fr) 5 65 33
18 45, www.lesplanade-creperie.fr) and
sit on the terrace under the sun
umbrellas to admire a view of the
village from further away. Its a touristy
spot, but that is to be expected at such
a well-visited site. Open from March to
November.
Stop for lunch at The Restaurant
WHAT TO SEE
70 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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VILLAGE
IN THE
AREA
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 71
STROKES
OF GENIUS
72 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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HISTORY TRAIL
1
4
THINGS TO SEE
Muse dOrsay
and Muse Rodin,
Paris 1
The Muse dOrsay has some
of van Goghs greatest works,
including a portrait of
Dr Gachet, Starry Night over
the Rhne (pictured) and The
Church at Auvers-sur-Oise
(tel: (Fr) 1 40 49 48 14, www.
musee-orsay.fr). The Muse
Rodins three works include
a portrait of Le Pre Tanguy.
Tel: (Fr) 1 44 18 61 10
www.musee-rodin.fr
www.completefrance.com
Arles
Saint-Rmy-deProvence 3
The Van Gogh Walk (8)
around Saint-Rmy includes
panels showing his works at
the location they were painted.
Van Goghs room in the
asylum is now a museum and
explains how madness was
treated in the 19th century.
The smartphone application
Les Paysages Franais de
Vincent van Gogh was
launched this year.
Tel: (Fr) 4 90 92 05 22
www.saintremy-deprovence.com
Auvers-sur-Oise
FRANCE MAGAZINE 73
BON APPTIT
The best of French gastronomy
at home and away
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 75
BON APPTIT
How to...
MAKE A SUMMER
TOMATO SALAD
BY CHEF AURLIE
ALTEMAIRE
FOOD ON THE GO
Get a taste of the food trucks phenomenon that is sweeping
France with our selection of the mobile caterers who are
bringing high-quality meals to the streets
La Brigade
This Paris-based food truck
(pictured above) offers
a brasserie-style cuisine of
beef, duck, chicken and
salmon, all cut in slices and
served with frites, salad,
and a sauce of your choice,
from mushroom to exotic
orange caramel, and served
in a cardboard container
with bamboo tongs.
A vegetarian option is also
available, as are desserts
and coffee. French TV
show Trs trs bien gave
its food an award.
Where to find it:
See www.la-brigade.fr
Meals from 10 to 15;
drink 3; dessert 3.50.
76 FRANCE MAGAZINE
Lcole Suprieure de
Cuisine Franaise Ferrandi
in Paris. With her team of
cooks she serves six types
of home-made burger and
a burger of the day which
have won the Palme de la
Restauration and Fooding
dhonneur awards.
Where to find it:
See www.lecamion
quifume.com
Meals 10.90; drink
2.20; dessert 4.
Diamant Noir
The esteemed truffle or
black diamond is the
special feature of this food
truck from Aix-enProvence which is served
in either salty or sugary
flavours. Dishes include
black truffle brouillade,
duck confit parmentier
and Brie de Meaux with
truffles, along with
vegetables and salads.
There are eat-in and
delivery options, too.
Where to find it:
See www.odiamant
noir.com
Meals from 10 to 12.90;
cheese 3.50; dessert 3.
As we move into
summer I love the
abundance of tomatoes
that come into season,
and one of my favourite
things to make is
a gorgeous summer
tomato salad. They are
simple, quick and easy to prepare
and are a great lighter dish for the
warmer months. We make tomato
salads at LAtelier de Jol
Robuchon in London, but I also love
to prepare them for myself, family
and friends when I am not working.
There are so many varieties to
choose from, including green zebra,
striped cherry and yellow
tomatoes. I suggest that you
experiment, as its nice to play
around with the contrasts of
flavours and colours. I love to use
baby heirloom tomatoes as these
are the more traditional varieties
and have a much nicer flavour than
some of the more modern ones.
This is how I make my summer
tomato salad: First, get 500g of
baby heirlooms and ten fresh basil
leaves, then chop up half a shallot.
For the dressing, add 4tbsp of
extra-virgin olive oil, the juice of
two limes and a pinch each of
Maldon sea salt and black pepper.
Gently mix the ingredients
together and then, as a final touch,
you can grate the rinds of the limes
before you juice them and mix
these into your salad to make it
even more fresh and zesty.
Aurlie Altemaire is head chef of LAtelier
de Jol Robuchon in central London.
Tel: 0207 010 8600, www.joelrobuchon.co.uk
www.completefrance.com
NMES
WEEKEND TREAT
TIME TO CELEBRATE
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 77
78 FRANCE MAGAZINE
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.
.
.
t
c
e
f
r
e
p
e
h
t
e
k
a
M
CLASSIC CUISINE
Salade nioise
LA SALADE NIOISE
SERVES
3 free-range eggs
A pinch of baking soda
12 tsp salt
6 medium tomatoes, firm but ripe
4 spring onions
2 long green salad peppers (optional)
2-4 celery stalks (depending on how
many other vegetables you are using)
12 radishes
6oz shelled broad beans (if available)
3 small artichokes (if available)
1 lemon (if using artichokes)
1 garlic clove
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
7-8tbsp excellent olive oil
A sprinkling of red wine vinegar
12 anchovy fillets
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 79
1 La Table de
Franck Putelat
80 FRANCE MAGAZINE
Carcass
Our wine columnist Dominic Rippon,
who lives in Carcassonne, guides
you to the best restaurants in the
medieval Cit and new town centre
2 Le Comte Roger
www.completefrance.com
RESTAURANTS
Visitors stroll in the shadow
of the Chteau Comtal
3 Ct Ferme
onne
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 81
31 Rue du
Dr Albert
Tomey
11000 Carc
assonne
Tel: (Fr) 4
68 71 39 9
This is whe
6
re
locals mee
t, on the ca
sunny terr
fs
ace, for a
g
la
ss
of chilled ro
and a plate
s
of barbecu
ed coeurs
canard, aft
de
er Carcass
onnes
Saturday m
orning ma
rket.
Eating in
troS
la
produce and fish that Languedoc and the Mediterranean can offer
BREAD
SEAFOOD
selection. Locals
frequently stop by for
a glass after work and
Arnaud organises
themed evenings with
street food cooked by
the butcher on the
opposite side of Rue
du Pont Vieux.
Poissonnerie
Jacques Montagn
DELICATESSEN
Boulangerie Noez
57 Rue de Verdun
11000 Carcassonne
Tel: (Fr) 4 68 47 67 51
Stop here for the best
baguettes in town.
MARKETS
Place Carnot
Bastide Saint-Louis
11000 Carcassonne
Carcassonnes outdoor
market fills Bastide
Saint-Louiss central
square and spills out
into the surrounding
streets. It is open on
Tuesday and Thursday
mornings, but is at its
liveliest on Saturdays,
when fresh fruit and
vegetables, herbs and
spices, local cheeses
and every kind of
duck-based delight
are sold. Try a bag
of fritons (duck
scratchings) as a tasty
snack. From Tuesday
to Saturday, the indoor
market on Rue Aim
Ramond also offers
an array of fine
local produce.
CO F F E E B R E A K
PTISSERIE
Barrire Truffesne
son
51 Rue Trivalle, 11000 Carcas
Tel: (Fr) 4 68 25 92 65
www.barriere-truffes.com
s the
On the pretty street that link
tide
Bas
h
Cit Mdivale wit
and
Saint-Louis, stop for a coffee
fle
truf
ade
e-m
a scoop of hom
es
ice-cream at Philippe Barrir
e.
tiqu
bou
stylish
82 FRANCE MAGAZINE
ANTI-CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP RIGHT: Shoppers at
the market in Place
Carnot; A lunchtime
barbecue at Caf
Saillan; Customers at
the caf enjoy a drink in
the sunshine; Philippe
Barrire at his shop
WINE
Lche pas
la Grappe!
55 Rue du Pont Vieux
11000 Carcassonne
Tel: (Fr) 4 68 26 39 63
Carcassonnes newest
wine caviste, Arnaud
Pevere, always has
a few good bottles
open, to pair with the
fine cheeses and
charcuterie that
he serves. Most wines
come from family
producers in
Languedoc-Roussillon,
and Arnauds passion
for organic wine is
reflected in his
ong
m
La Ferme
55 Rue de Verdun
Bastide Saint-Louis
11000 Carcassonne
Tel: (Fr) 4 68 25 02 15
www.lafermecarcassonne.fr
This large deli next to
Ct Ferme (see Eating
In section) has grown
from a cheese shop
into a purveyor of
almost every savoury
treat. There are cold
meats from all over
the Mediterranean and
home-made dishes
such as Alsatian
choucroute, to which
you can add as much
sausage, ham hock and
bacon as you can
carry. The shop also
sells around 500
carefully selected
wines, with an entire
floor dedicated to
glasses, designer
pots and luxury
cooking utensils.
NEXT
MONTH
E N J OY I N G
THE CUISINE
O F T H E LOT
www.completefrance.com
APRO
Caf Sail
la
SHOPPING
French
saffron
In her regular column,
Clotilde Dusoulier shows
how to cook with the
produce we buy in France
Clotilde Dusoulier
lives in Paris and
writes a popular
food blog,
Chocolate &
Zucchini. She
has published
cookbooks and
a guide to Paris
restaurants and
food shops.
SAFFRON OMELETTE
3tbsp warm milk
4 pistils saffron
4 large organic eggs
12tsp fine sea salt
A pat of butter
1. About two hours
before, combine the
www.completefrance.com
uncooked centre of
the pan.
4. Tilt the pan around
so the egg mixture
covers the surface of
the pan again, and
repeat the setting and
FRANCE MAGAZINE 85
Seeds of change
The replanting of the Canal du Midis iconic plane trees
echoes the resurrection of Frances vineyards more than
100 years ago, says Dominic Rippon
86 FRANCE MAGAZINE
Dominic Rippon
has many years
experience in the
wine trade, both
in the UK and
France, and
now runs the
wine merchant
business Strictly
Wine.
Road to recovery
An early solution was to breed native European
vines with American species, creating hybrids that
resisted phylloxera. But when the wines were
made, their flavours were unacceptable to those
used to drinking traditional burgundy, claret and
champagne. By the early 20th century, botanists
had perfected the technique of grafting Vitis
vinifera varieties on to native American
rootstocks, which didnt harm the wines flavours;
but by that time the shape of the French vineyard
had changed fundamentally. Some wine
regions, such as Moselle in Lorraine, had
already been marginalised by the building
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WINE
www.completefrance.com
Rays of sunshine
Meanwhile in the Midi, the public has rallied to
the Canals cause: over the past few years, half
a million euros has been received in charitable
donations by the French waterways authority,
which is charged with removing infected trees and
restoring the canal to its old splendour. Although
a new vaccine is being tested, the only sure
solution is to replant different species of tree, with
roots strong enough to strengthen the canals
banks, and thick leaves to create a shady canopy.
In a final echo of the phylloxera story, one of the
species being planted is the Mississippi plane,
a native American tree that resists the fungus.
Some people in the Midi are philosophical,
pointing out that the canals ageing plane trees
were planted mostly in the early 19th century and
would have needed replacing anyway. It remains
to be seen whether, as with Frances vineyards, the
introduction of new plants will bring fresh and
unexpected benefits.
FRANCE MAGAZINE 87
LA CULTURE
Your essential guide to French
culture and language
Talent to amuse
Versatile film actress and writer SYLVIE TESTUD tells
Pierre de Villiers of her surprise move into comedy
ylvie Testud has itchy feet. The French actress has moved
house in Paris no fewer than 11 times not because shes
particularly picky about where she lives but because she
hates feeling hemmed in.
I just dont want to make this circle around me and have
limitations always be this girl and always live here. I have
always felt this way. I move all the time.
Its a free-spirited attitude combined with pixie-like, almost
otherworldly features that make it impossible for the movie
industry to pigeonhole her that has seen Testud carve out
a fascinating career. She learnt German, sign language and the
clarinet for Jenseits der Stille (Beyond Silence), won a Csar for
playing one of the murdering Papin sisters in Les Blessures
Assassines (Murderous Maids), starred as dith Piafs best friend
in the Oscar-winning La Vie en Rose and won another
Csar for Stupeur et Tremblements (playing
a Belgian translator working at a Japanese
company). For her most recent film the
actress makes a rare foray into comedy with
Le Talent de Mes Amis, about a personal
development expert who turns a mans
life upside down.
I was surprised when director Alex
Lutz asked me to do it, says Testud.
Im more the sort of actress they call
if they want someone who becomes
crazy or wants to die. No one has
really asked me to do something
funny, but Alex trusted me and
I found a new world which
was wonderful.
To understand
Testuds desire to try
new things you
must go back to
her upbringing in
Lyon. The actress
recalls how being
blonde and
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 89
CINEMA RELEASE
Les
Combattants
STARRING: Adle Haenel, Kevin Azas
DIRECTOR: Thomas Cailley
RUNNING TIME: 98 minutes
CERTIFICATE: 15
RELEASE DATE: 19 June
90 FRANCE MAGAZINE
www.completefrance.com
WILLIAM ALEXANDER
re
a
e
W
listening to...
Carmen by Belgianborn singer
Stromae. The lyrics
(on youtube.com)
deal with societys
growing obsession
with social media.
BLU-RAY
Les Parapluies de Cherbourg (out now) Vincent Vittoz
directs a cast which includes soprano Natalie Dessay and
teenager Marie Oppert in this staged production of Jacques
Demys much-loved 1964 screen musical, recorded at the
Thtre du Chtelet in Paris.
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REVIEWS
BOOKS
FLIRTING WITH FRENCH
William Alexander,
Duckworth, 9.99
For Francophile William Alexander
simply exploring lHexagone and
loving its food and culture isnt
enough; he wants to feel French
from the inside. The only problem
is that he cannot speak the
language. This highly entertaining
read charts Alexanders progress both at home in the
United States and on his travels in France as he sets out
to conquer the language that he loves, but finds hard to
understand. Along the way he describes the irritation of
having to type accented letters in emails and the pitfalls
of addressing someone as tu rather than vous, before
coming to a surprising conclusion about his quest.
HOW THE FRENCH WON
WATERLOO (OR THINK THEY DID)
Stephen Clarke,
Random House, 14.99
In his latest book, author and
FRANCE Magazine columnist
Stephen Clarke marks the 200th
anniversary of Waterloo by seeing
how the French have viewed the
battle and why they cannot
contemplate their hero Napolon
being dubbed a loser. He reveals that as soon as the
cannon fire ceased, French historians began re-writing
history, claiming that the Duke of Wellington had been
defeated but that his Prussian allies the disobeyed the
rules of battle to change the outcome. The latest in
Clarkes long list of witty tales is an entertaining look at
how the French really do think they won the war and at
the influence Napolon has on modern France.
TAPE
Richard Moore,
HarperCollins, 8.99
As riders prepare for this years
Tour de France, which begins on
4 July, heres a chance to get the
inside track on the legendary race
in specialist Richard Moores latest
book on the world of cycling.
Through exclusive new interviews
with cycling legends past and present, the author takes
readers on a virtual tour of France, selecting 20 stages
from the past five decades that convey the many facets
of the tour, from heroism to tragedy. Featuring Mark
Cavendish, Chris Boardman and the disgraced Lance
Armstrong among many others, this anecdote-packed
book is a compelling read.
FRANCE MAGAZINE 91
LANGUAGE DIGEST
BEGINNERS
INTERMEDIATE
ADVANCED
Du Ct de Chez Swann: la
Recherche du Temps Perdu,
CreateSpace Independent
Publishing Platform, 10.25
Marcel Prousts seven-volume
novel features more than
2,000 characters and deals
with the complexities of
involuntary memory. The
first part, with its
dense plotting
and flowery
prose, will test
anyone taking
their French to
the highest level.
92 FRANCE MAGAZINE
o say,
DDONT
SAY:
If you go shopping
and realise youve
forgotten your
wallet when the
time comes to pay,
be sure to say Je
nai pas dargent.
If you opt for the
faux ami Je nai pas
de monnaie, youre
saying you do not
have any change.
GRAMMAR
CORNER
THE PASSIVE FORM
In French, passive sentences
are usually formed with the
verb tre and the past
participle, and the latter will
always agree with the subject.
Examples include Le ciel
a t illumin par la foudre,
which translates as The sky
was illuminated by lightning
and La maison sera vendue,
which means The house will
be sold. The passive can often
be avoided in French by using
the subject pronoun on,
for example On vide les
poubelles le vendredi, which
translates as the bins are
emptied on Fridays.
Passive sentences are often
formed with the reflexive
pronoun and sometimes this
has both active and passive
meanings. Examples are
La porte sest ferme, which
means The door closed, and
Les glaces se vendent mieux
lt que lhiver, meaning
Ice cream sells better in
summer than in winter.
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LANGUAGE
SOUNDS OF SUMMER
Its not just the Fte Nationale that the French celebrate in July;
there are plenty of music festivals to enjoy, says Audrey Paris
osrtdreoent:
W
the
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FRANCE MAGAZINE 93
IDIOMS
QUI SUIS-JE?
Lisez les indices ci-dessous
et devinez qui je suis
Je suis lun des acteurs les
plus connus de France.
En 2011 jai jou un rle
important dans le film The
Artist.
Jai t mari lactrice
franaise Alexandra Lamy.
Je suis
5Hurry
WAYS
TO
SAY...
up
Dpche-toi
This is the
standard phrase
for Hurry up!
Fais vite!
This phrase
means Be quick!
Grouille-toi
94 FRANCE MAGAZINE
Magne-toi
This is another
informal phrase
and means
Look sharp!
Presse-toi
This is used less
than the other
phrases and
translates as Get
a move on!
www.completefrance.com
WHATS
ON THE
MENU?
This is an informal
phrase and
translates as
Shake a leg!
How
to say... COMPETITION
Les Mots Flchs
Portefeuille
portuh-foy
Wallet
Fun French
ANAGRAMS
1 Toniatna
2 Qitatnuoi
3 Remiecs
4 Dnaronen
5 Tegniapa
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To enter: Complete Les Mots Flchs grid and note all the letters in the grey squares.
Rearrange these letters to spell a French town or city and send this answer, together with
your name, telephone number and address, to: FRANCE Magazine, Les Mots Flchs,
Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham GL50 1BB. Entries close 8 July, 2015.
Last months Les Mots Flchs answers will be posted on our website www.francemag.com/quiz and
appear in the August issue, on sale on 8 July, 2015. The answers to this months competition will be on
the website from 15 July, 2015 and in the September issue on sale on 5 August, 2015.
www.completefrance.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 95
www.justramblefrance.com
Email: justramblefrance@gmail.com
Tel: 0033 (0)4 70 03 14 90
Please mention
Be seen by
over
48,500
Francophiles
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HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION
Simply choose the region you are interested in and browse through the selection of properties. Our simple key will
tell you all you need to know about the rental property of your choice. Though many will be listed with French
telephone numbers, most will be answered by English speakers, unless otherwise stated.
66
KEY
PARIS
NORTH WEST
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
NORTH EAST
Five regions of
property to let by
colour code
South East
South West
SOUTH EAST
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
SOUTH WEST
North East
North West
Paris
3
5
Nearest supermarket
Nearest airport
Nearest beach/swimming
Nearest tennis
Nearest golf
Nearest horseriding
Nearest restaurant
Nearest tourist attraction
7
4
COLLIOURE, PYRNESORIENTALES
CAPACITY: 24
This homely villa is in a quiet corner of a traditional
village surrounded by countryside, vineyards and Les
Alberes mountains. The mediterranean coast is 15 mins
drive, St. Cyprien, Argeles sur mer, Canet plage all
popular beach resorts. Collioure is a delight with
cobbled lanes, artisan galleries and beach front
restaurants. Visit Carcassonne, the wonderful UNESCO
world heritage city. Drive along the beautiful rugged
coast into Spain, visit vineyards, cathar castles and pretty
harbour towns. Enjoy wine tasting, walking and sight
seeing. You will feel relaxed as soon as you arrive at Belle
Vue, with its simple stylish decor and the peaceful
setting! Nearest airport Perpignan 20km.
545-945 p/w
Contact Jo Staples
Tel: 07801 440605
Email: bellevuemaisonvilla@yahoo.co.uk
www.holidaylettings.co.uk/76428
20
10
20
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
50
LA FERTEMACE, NORMANDY
NR CARTERET, MANCHE
CAPACITY: 9
FRANCE IS JUST
A CLICK AWAY AT
www.completefrance.com
www.completefrance.com
140-550 p/w
280-395 p/w
145
10
10
10
Contact Details:
Tel: (01728) 688309
Email: norman.maison@gmail.com
www.normanmaison.co.uk
10
10
30
10
12
10
FRANCE MAGAZINE 97
FE
RE ATUR
NT ED
AL
LEPINAY LE COMTE
CAPACITY: 3
South facing well equipped stone detached
bakehouse recently renovated. Open plan living/
dining room kitchen with wood-burner, TV, DVD,
radio, CD player and dedicated free WiFi. Well
equipped kitchen inc. washing machine. Mezzanine
bedroom with double bed and single futon.
Bathroom with shower. The Bakehouse is part of a
small gated complex of three buildings with
generous gardens and parking. Situated on a quiet
lane off the D21 between Passais la Conception and
LEpinay le Comte. Owners live on site. Excellent
cycling opportunities. Three adult bicycles available.
Plenty of walking and fishing in the area. Prices
include gas, electricity and heating (wood for the
woodburner) all bedlinen, towels and welcome tray.
Mid-week breaks and weekend breaks available with
flexible dates to suit your travel plans. Contact the
owners for prices. Pets welcome.
200-300 p/w
Contact Details: Susan and Philip Harrison
Tel: 0033 2 33 96 13 67.
Email: hh.aspp@gmail.com
www.lapouliniere.co.uk
10
113
10
25
16
FE
RE ATUR
NT ED
AL
700-1300 p/w
Contact Anne Hubbard
Tel: 001-406-849-5151 (USA, 7 hours behind
UK) www.our-riviera-rental.com
Email: lecottagedominic@gmail.com
www.france-rental.com, I.D. #310
98 FRANCE MAGAZINE
12
.005
N/A
N/A
0.01
.5
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HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION
PROPERTY IN THE SOUTH EAST
66
06
06
PYRNESORIENTALES
NR MONTELIMAR, PROVENCE
CAPACITY: 24
CAPACITY: 26
CAPACITY: 14
599-799 p/w
20
10
20
Website: www.LaMagnanerie.com
Email: UWLaMagnanerie@aol.com
Phone (CAN): 1 (416) 533-0391
(FR): 33 4.75.46.25.34
Contact Jo Staples
Tel: 07801 440605
Email: bellevuemaisonvilla@yahoo.co.uk
www.holidaylettings.co.uk/76428
295-495 p/w
540-850 p/w
150
0.2
0.1
0.1
1.5
1.5
0.1
0.1
1120 p/w
Contact Juliette Roux
Tel : +33 (0)4 78 29 82 47
www.appart-ambiance.com
contact@appartambiance.com
www.completefrance.com
Phone: +33 6 80 32 41 34
email: information@france-monaco-rentals.com
www.france-monaco-rentals.com
FRANCE MAGAZINE 99
HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION
PROPERTY IN THE SOUTH EAST
FE
RE ATUR
NT ED
AL
03
16
180
15
30
LOT VALLEY/TARNETGARONNE
CAPACITY: 222
Advertise sale
ate
your priv ttle as
from as li
65+VAT
www.francepropertyshop.com
Your essential guide to buying property in France
Brought to you by
www.completefrance.com
50
O/S
23
10
15
FE
RE ATUR
NT ED
AL
SOUTH WEST
Mazamet, Midi-Pyrnes
Bed & breakfast: 5 double rooms
La Villa de Mazamet is a luxury B&B, in the heart of
SW France, with five beautifully appointed bedrooms,
pool, Le Petit Spa & table dhtes restaurant. Situated
in the market town of Mazamet, La Villa provides a
fantastic base from which to explore this historic
corner of France.
On the doorstep to two UNESCO World Heritage
Sites, Vineyards, Mountains & Medieval Villages.
From 110 per night, per room, inc. breakfast.
110 p/night
Peter Friend
Tel: +33 563 979 033
E-Mail: info@villademazamet.com
www.villademazamet.com
FE
RE ATUR
NT ED
AL
NAJAC, AVEYRON
CAPACITY: 210
A warm welcome awaits you at the El Camino de
Najac, ideally situated on the edge of this beautiful
medieval town and perfect for exploring the
Aveyron.
Well-appointed rooms include both antique and
handmade furniture, modern bathrooms and
magnificent views. After enjoying our deluxe
breakfast (chateau views included), take your pick
from historic sites, over 80km of way marked trails or
simply relax in our expansive garden and woodland.
Discounts for groups & longer stays. From 45 per
room per night including breakfast.
87
0.4
0.35
55
0.35
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Location,
Location,
Location
We know that location
is important when
searching for your ideal
property in France so we
have made it easier
for you
Filter your
results to the specific
local town or village for a
more accurate search.
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Your essential guide to buying property in France
Brought to you by
LANGUAGE
www.languageinprovence.com
LANGUAGE SCHOOL IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
FRENCH
COURSES FOR
ADULT STUDENTS
AND FAMILIES
AT YOUR
TEACHERS HOME
LANGUAGE
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Tel: +33 (0) 2 41 51 78 74
Mob: +33 (0) 6 78 94 36 19
info@parfumdefrance-fr.com
www.parfumdefrance-fr.com
TOTAL
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Join us in the heart of the Vende at Le
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small groups, maximum of 6. Fully residential
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learners welcome
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AVAILABLE FROM
INTERVIEW
When did you first fall in love
with France?
My grandfather worked for
Southern Railway Company,
which ran the ferries from
Southampton to Saint-Malo
and Le Havre, and we got
preferential fares. It was very
unusual in the 1950s for a
lower-middle-class family to
go to France for a week, but
we did it quite often.
Youve lived in France for eight
years, how do you like it?
We lived for four years in
the countryside north of
Bordeaux where we found
a wonderful converted mill,
but we found it difficult being
car-dependent all the time.
The demographic of a French
village is different from
an English one. Everyone
works in the local industries;
in this case agriculture, silver
culture and quarrying.
There are only so many
conversations about combine
harvesters that one can have.
We moved to Marseille,
which is more like it.
I believe you live in
Le Corbusiers Cit Radieuse
(pictured below).
Yes we do. It is very big...
almost 2,500 sq ft. Theres
only one other apartment
[out of 330] this size. Its
a building that I have been
preoccupied with since
I first saw it in the 1980s.
Is Cit Radieuse how
Le Corbusier intended?
No, it isnt. It was intended
as social housing for the
working class. However, the
workers didnt want to live in
the apartment block, they
wanted small houses with
gardens, so it has always been
predominantly occupied by
functionaries, teachers,
academics, doctors...
its essentially a very
middle-class society here.
My France
Jonathan
Meades
www.completefrance.com
NEXT ISSUE
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Discover the Huguenot heritage of
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