Introduction

f you are here, you are probably hungry. Perhaps you

are starved for saturated color. You crave a craft that can
satisfy your desire for sumptuous shapes and luxurious
textures. Or you have a voracious appetite for beauty. Dont
worrywhatever your particular palate requires, there is
something on the menu for you.
Welcome to the world of soutache and bead embroidery.
While this art form is newer in the world of craft, it has and
continues to evolve rapidly. And while there is already a
virtual smorgasbord of techniques in existence, new ones
are being cooked up every day.
So, think of this as a tasting: I will share with you some of
the basic skills needed to complete some delectable projects.
You, in turn, will enjoy sampling a variety of delicious tidbits.
Having once whetted your appetite, however, you may well
develop an all-but-insatiable desire to learn more.
In the meantime, pull up a chair!
Bon apptit.

Tools and Materials

Soutache is a type of braid, often referred to as a Russian braid. It is made up of fine fibers
wrapped figure-8 style around two central cords. One of the primary elements of Passementarie
(the French art of textile embellishments, including fringe, gimp, and tassels), soutache is most
commonly seen stitched into repeated curvilinear shapes on military and band uniforms. Soutache
can be found at fabric stores, millinery and haberdashery shops, and upholsterers, as well as online
at a number of sources (www.ameerunswithscissors.com) in both domestic and imported styles.
With soutache and bead embroidery, you dont need lots of bulky tools, equipment, or hard-toget materials. To begin, youll need scissors, needles and a pair of chainnose pliers. The scissors
should be sharp enough and small enough to nip into corners. I usually use a #10 beading needle,
but sometimes I use a #12 if Im working with tiny 150 seed beads. You may also want a bead tray
or bead mat, and a large darning needle or toothpicks, which are great for spreading glue, making
last-minute adjustments, and poking stray threads into place.
And, of course, youll need some materials:
18"-wide soutache
Size B Nymo thread
Beads: I use a variety of beads in different shapes and sizes, such as seed beads, round beads,
cubes, and crystals. Bugle beads come in handy, and interest beads like flat shapes, small metallic
shapes, teardrops, and barrels can make a great starting point or add a lot to a project.
Glue (I like Crafters Pick Washable Fabric glue)
Ultrasuede
Findings, such as 6mm jump rings (soldered are best), French earring wires, pin backs, and
toggle-style clasps.

Amee

Amee K. Sweet-McNamara uses soutache and bead embroidery to

create textile jewelry with sinuous, organic shapes in brilliant hues.
Formally educated in both interior design and fine art, Amee is a
member of the League of N.H. Craftsmen and she takes her inspiration
from all things color saturated: Mucha posters, Venetian glass,
Renaissance paintings, and Bollywood dance costumes have all at one
time or another influenced her creations. Amee works out of her studio in
Merrimack, N.H. and teaches at venues throughout the country. Visit her
website, ameerunswithscissors.com.
2

Techniques
Aligning and Stacking

If you look carefully at a piece (or braid)

of soutache, you can see how the fine
threads of each braid run toward the
rib (the center indent in the soutache) to
form a V. Flip the braid over, and the Vs
point the other way. These Vs show the
direction of the grain (the way the
threads are arranged) of the braid.
1. Lay each piece of soutache flat. Turn
pieces over as necessary until the grain of
all three braids is pointed in the same
direction (a).

Shaping Stitch

Soutache, by its very nature, wants

to curve. Shaping stitches coax the
soutache into the curve and hold it
there. Shaping stitches should be longer
on the outside of the curveabout
38"and shorter inside the curve
about 116". Shaping stitches are always
taken through the ribs of the soutache,
meaning that the needle passes through
all the ribs in the stack.
1. Tie a knot at one end of 1 yd. of
size B Nymo thread. Trim the tail close to
the knot.
2. Holding the stack between your
thumb and forefinger, sew up through
the bottom of the stack.
3. Working from right to left, sew down
through the stack about " to the left (c).
(This counts as one shaping stitch.)

2. Stack the soutache by laying one piece

only (f). Sew back through the left and

right inner braid (g).

2. Sew back through both inner braids

and through the left outer braids (h). Sew
back through all six braids (i). Stitch
through all six layers again.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 as needed. A

shaping stitch is one stitch, regardless

of length or whether it is inside or outside
the curve. Knot to finish.

Joins

Joins occur where two stacks of soutache

come together in the same plane, often
at the base of a bead. A two-sided join
occurs when both stacks have loose ends.
A one-sided join happens when a stack
with loose ends is connected to a stack
that has already been secured in place.

on top of another (b). Be careful not to

flip any over. Hold the stack of soutache
lightly by the sides. A stack can be made
of two or more braids; as long as theyre
together, theyre a stack.

4. Sew up through the stack about 116" to

the left (d). (This counts as the second
shaping stitch.)

Two-Sided Join
1. Separate the stacks
of braids and pinch
together the inner
braids of both stacks
(e). Sew through the
left inner braid

One-Sided Join
1. Sew from the outside of the stack to
reach the inner
braid. Separate the
stack. Keeping the
inner braid tight to
the bead, press it to
the secured stack.
Sew through the
inner braid and the
secured stack (j).