MOBILIZATION

1/2 Plywood = 10 X 656.25 =

6,562.50

Ordinary Nails = 5 x 122.5 =

612.50

2X3 C. Lumbers = 40 x 105 =

Sakolin = 15 x 50 =
#16 GI Wires = 5 x 95.25 =
Gasoline = 3 x 44.25 =
Consumables = 1 x 2000 =

4,200.00
750.00
476.25
132.75
2,000.00

TOTAL

14,734.00

EXCAVAITION
60 sq. m. X 434.27 Pesos / sqm =

26,056.00

ROOFING WORKS
Roof = 1.2 x 500 =

60,000.00

Steel Deck Cap = 12 x 750 =

9,000.00

Roofing Nails= 2.4 x 250 =

600.00

TOTAL

69,600.00

ROOF FRAMING
Angle Bar = 60 x 450 =
Purlins = 60 x 350=
Anchor Bolt = 60 x 50=
(Welding Services) = 333.33333 x 20000=

27,000.00
21,000.00
3,000.00
20,000.00

TOTAL =

71,000.00

FLOOR WORKS
1st Floor
Tiles =
Adhesive =

200 x 280 =
12 x 220 =

56,000.00
2,640.00

Cement =

12 x 230 =

2,760.00

TOTAL =

61,400.00

2nd Floor
Tiles =
Adhesive =
Cement =

200 x 280 =
12 x 220 =
12 x 230 =

56,000.00
2,640.00
2,760.00

TOTAL =

61,400.00

REINFORECMENT
Footings
Rebar 12mm Type 1 (Long Bars) = 8 x 325 =
Rebar 12mm Type 2 (Long Bars) = 8 x 325 =
Rebar 10mm Type 1 (Alternating Bars) = 5 x 135=
Rebar 10mm Type 2 (Alternating Bars) = 5 x 135=
TOTAL =

2,600.00
2,600.00
675.00
675.00
6,550.00

Column
Rebar 12mm Type 1 (Long Bars) = 32 x 325 =
10,400.00
Rebar 16mm Type 2 (Long Bars) = 13 x 340=
4,200.00
Tie Wire
= 13 x 90=
1,170.00
TOTAL =

143,910.00

Beam
Rebar 12mm Type 1 (Long Bars) = 24x 325 =
7,800.00
Rebar 16mm Type 2 (Long Bars) = 10x 340=
3,400.00
Tie Wire
= 10x 90=
900.00
TOTAL =

108,900.00

FORMWORKS (1st Floor)

Column
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

6,557.24

Beam
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

19,906.15

Slab
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

24,857.12

FORMWORKS (2nd Floor)

Column
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

Beam

6,557.24

Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

19,906.15

Slab
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

24,857.12

CONCRETING
1st Floor
Ready Mix Concrete (7days curing, 3500 psi)
Pumpcrete
Consumables
TOTAL

80,235.00

2nd Floor
Ready Mix Concrete (7days curing, 3500 psi)
Pumpcrete
Consumables
TOTAL

80,235.00

MASONRY WORKS
1st Floor External Wall
6" CHB
Sand
Gravel
10 mm rebar
Cement
TOTAL

49,059.58

1st Floor Internal Wall

4" CHB
Sand
Cement
Gypsum Board
Metal Studs & Tracks
Gypsum Screw
Gypsum Patty
Gypsum Tape
TOTAL

24,047.83

2nd Floor External Wall

6" CHB
Sand
Gravel
10 mm rebar
Cement
TOTAL

49,059.58

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Mar. 27, 2014
Text
MOBILIZATION
1/2 Plywood = 10 X 656.25 =
6,562.50
Ordinary Nails = 5 x 122.5 =
612.50
2X3 C. Lumbers = 40 x 105 =
4,200.00
Sakolin = 15 x 50 =
750.00
#16 GI Wires = 5 x 95.25 =
476.25
Gasoline = 3 x 44.25 =
132.75
Consumables = 1 x 2000 =
2,000.00
TOTAL

14,734.00

EXCAVAITION
60 sq. m. X 434.27 Pesos / sqm =
ROOFING WORKS

26,056.00

Roof = 1.2 x 500 =

Steel Deck Cap = 12 x 750 =
Roofing Nails= 2.4 x 250 =

60,000.00
9,000.00
600.00

TOTAL

69,600.00

ROOF FRAMING
Angle Bar = 60 x 450 =
Purlins = 60 x 350=
Anchor Bolt = 60 x 50=
(Welding Services) = 333.33333 x 20000=

27,000.00
21,000.00
3,000.00
20,000.00

TOTAL =

71,000.00

FLOOR WORKS
1st Floor
Tiles =
Adhesive =
Cement =

200 x 280 =
12 x 220 =
12 x 230 =

56,000.00
2,640.00
2,760.00

TOTAL =

61,400.00

2nd Floor
Tiles =
Adhesive =
Cement =

200 x 280 =
12 x 220 =
12 x 230 =

56,000.00
2,640.00
2,760.00

TOTAL =

REINFORECMENT
Footings
Rebar 12mm Type 1 (Long Bars) = 8 x 325 =
Rebar 12mm Type 2 (Long Bars) = 8 x 325 =
Rebar 10mm Type 1 (Alternating Bars) = 5 x 135=
Rebar 10mm Type 2 (Alternating Bars) = 5 x 135=
TOTAL =
Column

61,400.00

2,600.00
2,600.00
675.00
675.00
6,550.00

Rebar 12mm Type 1 (Long Bars) = 32 x 325 =

10,400.00
Rebar 16mm Type 2 (Long Bars) = 13 x 340=
4,200.00
Tie Wire
= 13 x 90=
1,170.00
TOTAL =

143,910.00

Beam
Rebar 12mm Type 1 (Long Bars) = 24x 325 =
7,800.00
Rebar 16mm Type 2 (Long Bars) = 10x 340=
3,400.00
Tie Wire
= 10x 90=
900.00
TOTAL =

108,900.00

FORMWORKS (1st Floor)

Column
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

6,557.24

Beam
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

19,906.15

Slab
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =
FORMWORKS (2nd Floor)
Column
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16

24,857.12

TOTAL =

6,557.24

Beam
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

19,906.15

Slab
Plywood
Cocolumber
Ordinary Nails
Tie wire #16
TOTAL =

24,857.12

CONCRETING
1st Floor
Ready Mix Concrete (7days curing, 3500 psi)
Pumpcrete
Consumables
TOTAL

80,235.00

2nd Floor
Ready Mix Concrete (7days curing, 3500 psi)
Pumpcrete
Consumables
TOTAL

80,235.00

MASONRY WORKS
1st Floor External Wall
6" CHB
Sand
Gravel
10 mm rebar
Cement
TOTAL
1st Floor Internal Wall

49,059.58

4" CHB
Sand
Cement
Gypsum Board
Metal Studs & Tracks
Gypsum Screw
Gypsum Patty
Gypsum Tape
TOTAL

24,047.83

2nd Floor External Wall

6" CHB
Sand
Gravel
10 mm rebar
Cement
TOTAL

49,059.58

PLASTERING
1st floor
Cement
Sand
TOTAL

22,297.68

Our Philippine House Project Roof and Roofing

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What weve learned about roofing systems, roof trusses, roofing materials and cost of
roofing in the Philippines as part of our house building project.

Roofing systems have become very standardized in the Philippines. What we describe
here is the roof system that goes on most houses except the very high end such as real
clay tile or cement tile, a few asphalt shingle roofs and the Nipa or sheet steel roofs of
the ordinary bahay native house.
Concrete Roofs. See THIS POST
We have drawn some conclusions from Typhoon Yolanda damage in Tacloban,
including ways that our roof could be made more typhoon resistant.
Seehttp://myphilippinelife.com/lessons-from-yolanda-building-construction/
Metal Roof Basics. Steel trusses of various designs rise from the topmost concrete roof
beam. The trusses are welded to stubs of rebar protruding through and well anchored
in the concrete roof beam. (One reader suggests that this is inadequate. See
comments below)

The trusses are almost always welded-up on-site and then primed. Its best to use one
of the two part epoxy primers, especially if youre anywhere near the sea. We used
Boysen Red Oxide Epoxy Primer which we bought from Iloilo City Hardware on Iznart
Street in Iloilo City. The cost was P603 per gallon. You get two cans per gallon, the
primer and a smaller can of hardener. Youll also have to buy epoxy reducer, an
expensive thinner for epoxy. The reducer is about P420 per gallon. Some of my crew
members tended to waste the reducer, especially trying to clean brushes. Finally, I
learned to buy cheap brushes which could be discarded. Once the hardener is mixed
into the primer, it very difficult to clean brushes. There are cheaper epoxy primers, but
were impressed with the Boysen.

ROOF IS GOING UP 4-10-10. THIS PHOTO SHOWS THE PERIMETER

WALL, THE CARPORT, THE BAHAY KUBO AND MY OFFICE.
Metal trusses of of various designs rise from the roof beam which top the hollow block
walls. The trusses are welded to stubs of rebar previously embedded in the roof beam
for that purpose. This system seems to work. We did not see any roofs of this type
blown off during Typhoon Frank in Iloilo City. Here you see four 12mm rebar wrapped
around the truss and welded in place. In total, the roof is held on by at least thirty such
rebars.

Our roof trusses were a bit unusual. Most trusses use the interior walls of the house for
support so that the spans are shorter. This requires less steel and saves money. Our
trusses were designed so that they could span the entire house without support sort
of like what youd see in a basketball court or warehouse. This would allow us to have
quite a lot of open space in the attic, although we never requested this and are unlikely
to use the attic space.

MAKING ROOF RAFTERS IN OUR ON-SITE WELDING SHOP

The center girt is 40cm wide and is welded up from 2 x 2 angle bar, 5mm for the frame
and 3mm for the webbing. The 35cm wide rafters use the same angle bar.
Originally, the height of our roof from the top of the wall to the peak of the roof girt was
to be 2.5 meters. We put up the center girt and two rafters and the roof pitch just looked
too low. On the spot, we decided to increase the roof height to 3.0 meters This whats
possible when youre running your own crew, but such decisions, if theyre not carefully
thought out, can have ramifications youve not yet imagined. In this case we seem to
have gotten away with this snap decision. Of course the steeper roof meant more roof
area and more roofing materials.

3-23-10 THE CENTER GIRT AND FIRST RAFTER GO UP AND WE DECIDE

ON MORE ROOF PITCH.

TURNBUCKLES WELDED TO REBAR ARE USED TO BRING RAFTERS INTO

ALIGHNMENT BEFORE PURLINS ARE ATTACHED. ALSO SHOWN ARE
COLLAR TIES AT THE PEAK OF THE ROOF.
Once the trusses and or rafters are in place, a system of lightweight steel purlins are
installed perpendicularly across the rafters. The purlins can be initially first popriveted to the rafters, then when the all adjustments have been made, welded to them.
These are our 2 x 3 1.2mm roof purlins. They all have to be painted with epoxy
primer. We paid P400 each for them in April 2010 but steel prices are going up rapidly.
Our roof needed 85 of these purlins. They are spaced between 50 and 60CM apart.
You have to be very careful when shopping for purlins to make sure the material is not
substandard in thickness.

PURLINS ARE WELDED TO RAFTERS USING SCRAPS OF ANGLE BAR

ROOF STRUCTURE

This photo shows the purlins installed across the rafters (trusses). The photo really
shows all the elements of the roof structure; the 40cm center girt at the ridge, the 35cm
rafters, the collar beams and the purlins. Next comes the facia and soffit frames.
The purlins support the long span steel roofing, but before the roof itself is put on, a
metal facia frame is installed around the perimeter of the roof. Our frame is welded
up of 1 x 1 angle bar and 1 flat bar. This frame supports and is hidden by a metal
facia board. The facia frame may also supports the soffit. At the rakes, the facia frame
is welded to ends of the purlins. At the eves they can be welded across the rafter tails.
The facia frame is the structural heart of the Philippine roof cornice system.

A SIMPLE ROOF
This is a photo of a very simple roof. It shows the scalloped prefabricated steel facia,
the prefab gutter attached to the facia and the red oxide primed purlins supporting the
unpainted galvanized roofing. On simple buildings like this one, pop rivets hold things
together.

SHOWN HERE ARE SMALL SAMPLES OF THE STANDARD FACIA BOARD

(LEFT) AND THE GUTTER (RIGHT) USED IN PHILIPPINE METAL ROOFING.

HERE ARE THE METAL FACIA AND THE GUTTER POSITIONED ON A FACIA
FRAME.
Once the purlins, facia and soffit frames, facia board and gutters are in place, the long
span roofing can be screwed to the purlins using self-tapping tek screws. This is
usually done by a crew working for the company which sells the roofing. Long span
means that the roofing sheets are long enough to reach from eave to peak without
joints. Once the roofing is on, the matching ridge caps and any other accessories go on.

SOFFIT AND FACIA FRAMES

This photo shows the soffit frame (below) and the facia frame. The soffit frame is
constructed of 1 x 1 1/8 (2mm) angle bar. This angle bar is P305 for a 6 meter
length. Its cheaper than wood. We used a 60cm x 120cm framework of this angle bar
for our entire ceiling structure.
To recap; a system of lightweight steel purlins are installed perpendicular to the trusses.
The purlins provide support for the long span steel roofing which is screwed to the
purlins using tek screws. The other parts of this standardized system are a steel
frame welded to the ends of the rafter tails. This facia frame extends around the
entire roof edge. A pre-painted steel facia board is attached to and covers the facia
frame. Then pre-painted, decorative gutter is attached to the facia board. The
installation of the facia frame, facia board and gutter allow the tweaks and adjustments
so that the final roof installation can proceed smoothly.
These roofing systems are generally available in .4, .5 and .6mm thickness. Generally .
4mm is used as its the least expensive. We originally ordered .5mm for the roofing and
.6mm for the gutters but it was not available so we had to order .6mm at a considerably
higher price. This has proved to be a blessing. If you can afford it, the .6mm roofing is

very worthwhile. The .4mm roofing is rather easily damaged by workers and ladders
and rusts out more quickly. Our roofing is said to be Galvalume coated, that is coated
with a mixture of aluminum and zinc which is supposed to be more durable than
ordinary galvanized steel. Supposedly the paint is applied in a Taiwan factory. This
6mm material is widely used in roofing commercial buildings. Update June, 2010. After
two years we do not see the slightest sign of corrosion.

MAY 5, 2010 ROOFING ARRIVES. COMPLETED ROOF STRUCTURE IN

BACKGROUND.

METAL FACIA BEING INSTALLED. 5-7-10

INSTALLING THE GUTTER 5-8-10

Insulation. Metal roofs are notorious for turning your attic space into an oven. Its
fairly common to install a thin foil-faced foam insulation under the roofing to try to
reduce heat transfer. We were dubious about the durability of foam under
such extremely hot conditions. We also wondered if so much foam could be a fire
hazard so we decided to use foil-faced 25mm fiberglass instead.

INSULATION AS IT COMES FROM THE SUPPLIER, FAR EASTERN

HARDWARE, ILOILO

GLUING FOIL TO UNFACED FIBERGLASS INSULATION USING CONTACT

CEMENT

FOIL-FACED FIBERGLASS INSULATION READY FOR INSTALLATION

INSULATION SUPPORTED BY 16 AWG GALVANIZED WIRE

The insulation, foil face up, is supported by a network of 16 gauge galvanized tie wire.
Holes are drilled in the purlins and the tie wire in threaded through the purlins. The
holes are positioned so as to leave a 1/2 air space between the foil and the underside
of the roofing. This spacing improves the reflective properties of the foil.

Followup. Having lived in the house for four years, we have found another big
advantage to the insulation is that the roof is MUCH quieter when it rains. A
neighbor has a very similar house with metal roofing and Hardiflex ceilings but
no insulation. It is much noisier when it rains. Its possible that thinner gauge
roofing is also noisier. This makes a big difference, especially sleeping on stormy
nights.
The roofing is available in a range of colors. Were using a light color. See thisNew
York Times article on how white roofs save energy. Dark metal roof colors are quite
popular in the Philippines, we guess because they give the look of clay tile roofs.

ROOF GOING ON. REFLECTIVE FOIL UNDER ROOF.

ROOF GOING ON OVER FOIL AND FIBERGLASS

FIBERGLASS INSULATION.
Now that the roof is on, the house looks a bit like a Philippine basketball court. The
interior walls are 3.4 meters above the finished floor. Its another 3.0 meters to the roof

peak. The total height is about 20 feet. We could have spectacular cathedral ceilings,
but will likely install ceilings between 3.2 and 3.4 meters above the finish floor level
giving us a 10 foot ceiling height. Even then, changing light bulbs and cleaning ceiling
fans will require a high ladder! The ceilings will be supported by ceiling joists of 1.5 x
1.5 2mm angle bar.
This photo also shows electrical conduit running from outlets to the panel box. The
concrete floor will be poured over the conduit.
The design of our roof includes two large vents high in the roof. More on that later.

Soffits. Soffits are one of the parts (along with gutters) of the Philippine house that
tend to deteriorate quickly and to require the most maintenance. Perhaps that is
because some use cheap plywood or because cement board does not hold up well in
that location. Maybe its because soffits never see the sun and may be vulnerable to
mildew and rot. Whatever the problem, choosing the right material is going to make
your life easier in the future. We have a modest single story house. Scrubbing ours
down is a pretty big job. If you have a two-story house, maintaining the soffits (and
gutters) is a really big job, probably requiring bamboo scaffolding.
Material options for the soffits include pre-painted, ventilated steel soffit packages,
plastic ventilated soffits material, Hardiflex brand cement board and plywood. Since we
were trying to give our house a bit of a traditional feel, the metal soffit system, while very
practical, are a little too reminiscent of a mobile home for us. Hardiflex appears to be
similar to the asbestos-cement board we used to see, but the asbestos has been
replaced with wood fiber. We decided to use painted 1/2 marine plywood. The
plywood is referred to 11mm plywood but actually measures 10mm. Since a hole
punched in the soffit can open up access to the building, we felt that plywood was a
more secure choice than the brittle Hardiflex. The plywood is attached to the steel soffit
frame with 3/16 blind rivets. The rivet heads are recessed and filled. All surfaces of
the plywood are primed before installation.

PLYWOOD SOFFIT PANELS AUGUST 2, 2010

Note that, except for the plywood soffits, not one bit wood is used in the entire roof
structure. Termites are a part of this, but Philippine forests have been
almost entirely cut off and wood is quite expensive.

The finished soffits with vents. The long vents are available for purchase at building
supply stores. We built the square vents at each corner of the house ourselves. All
vents are screened from above. These look nice but may be a maintenance headache
long term compared with metal or plastic ventilated soffits.
Our choice of plywood for the soffits was probably not a good one. While we have not
had serious problems during the first three years, our soffits get dark with mildew quite
quickly. We have to scrub them down with soap and bleach at least once per year.
Over time, we may have problems with termites or other wood borers. Look at the
metal and plastic options. We dont like the look of them, but if you do, they may be a
good choice.

You can get creative. This is a soffit with decorative ventilation on an old building in
Lucban, Quezon Province. It looks like sheet metal to us. Good quality sheet metal
(such as Galvalume) riveted to the soffit frame should be a good choice. This kind of
decorative metalwork would be prohibitively expensive in the developed world, but in
the Philippines you find skilled metal workers to do such work for an affordable price.

Cost. The surface area of our roof is about 300 square meters. The total cost of the
roof excluding the structural elements but including insulation and installation is about
P280,000 or about P700 per square meter. The fiberglass insulation added about
P50,000. We were told to expect to pay about P500 per square foot for our roof but
using better materials drove the price higher. We have not yet calculated the total cost
of the roof structure plus roofing but it must be at least P800,000.
We purchased the roofing from and it was installed by Far Eastern Hardware, 38
Quezon Street, in Iloilo City. We dealt with Victoria Baby Ang. When our plans were
found not to be complete enough for our crew to build the roof structure, Baby sent an
engineer out to help at no charge. Land line phone for Far Eastern is +63-33-3372654. Mobile for Ms. Ang is+63-918-888-2228. Getting through can be a challenge.
Ms. Ang is quite business-like. One time she failed to give us the usual friendly
greeting to us as we walked in to negotiate an order for more building materials. She
joked, if you want friendly, go to Jolibee and laughed. Our business dealings with Far
Eastern and Mrs. Ang were always straightforward and satisfactory.

FAR EASTERN HARDWARE ON QUEZON STREET. ILOILO CITY

Summary. All parts of this Philippine roofing system are matching; preformed and prepainted so that the entire ensemble of roof panel, gutter, facia board and ridge cap are
in the same design and color. This is a very slick, economical and attractive system
which provides a durable roof able to withstand the monsoons, typhoons, termites and
other rigors of life in the Philippines at a moderate cost. Were impressed. My only
reservation is that roof sealants (Elastaseal, Vulcoseal etc.) seem to be an accepted
part of the Philippine roofing world. I have some experience with high quality metal
roofing on U.S. historic restoration projects. I consider the use of these sealants to be a
bad sign. These sealants always fail. A roofing system that depends on them is poorly

designed and will require frequent maintenance as the sealants break down. Our rental
apartment has a metal roof. Whenever theres a strong rain, it leaks and the landlord
sends a crew with tubes of roof cement to try to repair the leaks. Thats not how Id like
to spend my retirement! A properly constructed metal roof will use proper design, not
sealants and will be leak free for decades.

ROOF COMPLETED 5-20-10

Roof Design
Heres a little about the architectural design of our roof. Our roof design goes against
the trend. Increasingly elaborate roof designs are very popular, especially for houses
that are or aspire to be upscale. The more valleys, ridges, dormers and other
complications the more impressive the house. Bob was brought up in the northern U.S.
where every valley was another spot for ice and snow to build up and cause ice dams
and leaks to form, so simple roofs are an instinctive choice.
These over-complex roofs are a recent development in the Philippines.
Traditional Philippines houses had dos aguas or quatro aguas roofs. These terms
are a carryover from the Spanish un tejado de dos aguas, a simple ridged roof or un
tejado de quatro aguas a hip roof. The older members of my construction crew still
understand and use these old Spanish terms.

SIMPLE GABLE ROOF

HIP ROOF
The hip roof has been very popular in traditional Philippine buildings and for good
reason. In a land where buildings are buffeted by typhoons every year, the hip roof
is streamlined, giving the winds little purchase.

The roof above was popular in the 19th century but during the Commonwealth era one
starts to see a modification which adds roof vents.

HERES AN EXAMPLE SOUTH OF CEBU CITY

CLOSER IS THE OLD GUIMBAL, ILOILO MUNICIPAL BUILDING. GUIMBAL

HAS A NEW CITY HALL BUT THANKFULLY HAS PRESERVED THE VERY
ELEGANT OLDER ONE. PHOTO FROM HCS.

HOUSE IN LUCBAN, QUEZON PROVINCE, OUR ARCHITECTURAL MODEL.

In Western architectural lingo such roofs are called gablet roofs or Dutch gable roofs.

Certainly the aesthetic for this roof is inspired by the roof profile of the beloved
Philippine bahay kubo native bamboo house. Filipinos, rich or poor, seem to have a
deep attachment to life in the provinces. For Filipinos, the provincial life and the bahay
kubo conjure up an idyllic paradise lost. Of course Filipinos know about the hardships
of provincial life, but those dont seem to dilute the romantic attraction of life in the
provinces. Just consider the current crop of TV soaps which alternate between a sorid,
squabbling life in huge, pretentious houses in Manila, lives filled with greed, envy and
bickering. Then in a flash you are in the provinces, in a bahay kubo,maybe with some
pretty capiz windowsa harmonious pastoral life populated with kindly, wise lolos and
lolas with birds singing and maybe a carabao contentedly ploughing in the background!

PANAY ISLAND BAHAY KUBO

This rustic bahay kubo roof design, transferred to wood frame and concrete buildings,
has evolved to incorporate a ventilator in the peak of the roof. We wanted to
incorporate at least some Filipino style into our house and also realized the advantages
of attic ventilation under our hot metal roof. Heres our original design for a two story
house.

PERSPECTIVE DRAWING FOR OUR TIGBAUAN HOUSE

We finally decided on a one story home but kept the roof design we liked so much. In
retrospect (5-12) this was probably not a good decision for our very exposed location.
Storms blow water through the ventilators onto the Hardiflex so we have had to block
off the ventilators. Readers have recommended that we install storm-proof ventilator
grills. We shall do so but our attic ventilation is adequate without the vents at the peak.
Including the peak vents added complexity to the construction, cost quite a lot of extra
money, will require maintenance and really provide little or no benefit. The low pitched
hip roofs seen on many Philippine houses are practical and affordable.