Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
Restaurants
Bars
Sights
KRAKW
Shops
Events
Maps
Wolski Forest
Mountain hideaway
of mounds, monks
and monkeys
Podgrze
N81
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
What lies
beyond the river
CONTENTS
Contents
Feature
Las Wolski
10
The Basics
14
16
Hotels
24
Restaurants
32
Cafs
62
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs
Clubs
Kazimierz Nightlife
History
65
70
74
76
Sightseeing
Old Town
Wawel
Kazimierz
Podgrze
Jewish Ghetto
Paszw
Salwator
Nowa Huta
78
79
89
92
96
99
101
104
106
Further Afield
Wieliczka
Auschwitz
Tarnw
Tyskie
109
112
116
120
Leisure
121
Shopping
124
Directory
129
131
132
134
135
136
138
krakow.inyourpocket.com
FOREWORD
I am ready to admit that the very appearance
Of this ancient city is a joy to all people.
Its folk are worthy of praise and all things abound
There, from markets to shrines to Almighty God.
You will gather tidings from foreign countries here
And you will meet a wayfarer who has come from afar.
Above the city the hill and towers of Wawel rise
Whilst the noisy waters of the River Vistula flow.
So the poet Klemens Janicki wrote of Krakw in 1542,
though the aspiring poets of today (if there still were such
a thing) might just as easily compose the same verses
upon a visit to the city 471 years later. Pretty much all
Janicki left out is the sweet mead that stirs the men
to fill every basement tavern with boisterous song, and
the waxen-haired women whose flawless beauty and
famous charms they sing of. Indeed the spring can be
a dangerous time to visit Krakw for those intending
to leave again, as the formidable confluence of rising
temperatures and hemlines, plus a full calendar of cultural
events (p.16), all conspire to keep you from catching your
flight home. This guide is basically an instruction manual
explaining what to do when that happens and why you
shouldnt be upset when it does.
This month weve done a thorough refreshing of the
guide, from the colours to the photos, and as with every
issue before it seemingly since the days of yore, within
these pages youll find all the most honest, unbiased
and meticulously up-to-date information on the citys
best and worst dining establishments (p.32), drinking
holes (p.65) and dance parties (p.70), plus what to do
and see in between. Popular recreational destination
Las Wolski (p.8) premieres in the guide as this issues
feature, and after months of preparation, were proud
to finally unveil our full guide to Podgrze (p.96), which
you may have noticed is our favourite part of town. All
that and more, dear friends, so find yourself a sunny
beer garden (p.65) and give this trusty tome a thorough
read to discover all there is to love about Krakw. As
always, we accept praise and complaints via editor_
poland@inyourpocket.com. Now go have a good time,
and our sincerest good luck in getting home again.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
Lithuania
Belarus
Netherlands
Poland
Germany
Belgium
Czech
Republic
Ukraine
Austria
Switzerland Slovenia
Romania
Croatia
Italy
Bosnia Serbia
Bulgaria
Montenegro Kosovo
FYR Macedonia
Albania
Greece
Editorial
Copyright Notice
Russia
Latvia
Ireland
Joanna Szlosowska
58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Published 20,000 copies,
6 times per year
Estonia
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
ul. Poselska 20, 31-117 Krakw,
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
krakow.inyourpocket.com
LAS WOLSKI
Getting There
Car access to Las Wolski is restricted, so even if you
have a vehicle its more sensible to take the bus. Bus
number 134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy,
H-3) near the Bonia and takes passengers directly to
the Zoo at the very centre of the forest. Here youll find a
map of all the trails in the area, the most popular of which
is the red trail which leads north to Pisudski Mound, and
south to the Camaldolese Monastery. Take a look at the
timetables at the bus stop to make sure you know what
time you need to catch your return into town; youll have
to come back to this spot to do so.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
10
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the
common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While
the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with EU directives and funding, the countrys clueless drivers are a trickier
fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from
the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your licence and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time being theres only one major highway leading into Krakw via
Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesnt come free.
An 9z toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit
the motorway. Still, its one of the best stretches of road
Parking Przy Teatrze Pl. witego Ducha 1 (entrance from ul. Szpitalna), tel. (+48) 883 99 99 54.
Krakws most exclusive parking lot, located right next to
the Sowacki Theatre, supervised 24 hours.
By Plane
Krakw Airport ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel.
(+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. Some
17km west of the city centre, Krakw Airport is small,
modern and easy to navigate, though amenities are limited.
Consisting of two small terminals, the domestic terminal
offers little more than a pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM
(bankomat), whereas in the international terminal youll find
currency exchange, ATMs (bankomat), a cafe, restaurant,
tourist information point (open 09:00 - 19:00), and 24hr
lockers (9z). Getting through check-in and security is a
snap, the only hassle of the airport being that you have to
walk around its entire perimeter to get from one terminal
to the other (great design job there, boys).
The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town, and
vice versa, is generally by train. A free shuttle bus runs
regularly between the international and domestic terminals,
picking passengers up directly outside the entrance and taking them the short distance to the Krakw Airport train stop
(coordinated with the train times). Train tickets are purchased
from the conductor on board the train, and now cost 12z one
way. If leaving from Krakw Gowny train station, departures
(odjazdy) to the Airport are frequent from Track 1; buy your
ticket from machines on the platform or on board for no extra
fee. Trains from the airport run frequently between 06:00 and
23:00 with a journey time of about 15-20mins.
Public bus numbers 292 and 208 also depart from beside
the International terminal entrance. This is a much cheaper
option, though the journey to the train station takes about 3540mins. Night bus 902 makes the same trip with departures
at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21, 02:21, 03:21 and 03:55.
The airport now also has its own trusted Krakow Airport Taxi
service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances.
The advantages are a set price of 69z from the airport to
the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time
price hikes. Solid.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Station History
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Wikipedia/Axe
The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on
to design Wrocaws immaculate station ten years later
- the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with
neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenellations whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the government quarter located across the river in Dbniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king
and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their
grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building,
lovingly referred to by locals as Szkieletor. The years
since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Krakws
train station any peace either, however the changes
have largely been met positively as the area received
a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new
plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now
represent Krakws main gateway into the city.
Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment
to create a brand new transportation hub connecting
the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services
underground, Krakws train station is set to receive
a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as
new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger
service points such as tourist information. The new
transportation hub will be fully accessible to the disabled
and is pencilled in for full completion no sooner than
December 2013, though that date is highly optimistic. In
the meantime, only one of the platform access tunnels
is open (so expect some confusion) and the old station
building appears to be headed towards redundancy and
the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical building
need not fret just yet. The local government is in talks to
take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the train
company and convert it into a gallery. Heres hoping its
put to good use.
11
12
Europcar J- 4, ul.
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories of
car available for your individual needs. Excellence in
service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including
Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Public Transport
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs
from 05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing less
frequently after that. Get tickets from the handy ticket
machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board
most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately
on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the
ticket machines on board trams and buses do not accept bills, so it is important to have some change handy.
98
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. A standard fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic. If youre
going a longer distance outside the centre (Nowa Huta,
for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min
ticket for 3.80z. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour,
and unlimited weekend family passes for 15.00z are
also options, or consider the Krakw Tourist Card (see
Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams and
buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC and Euro26
Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts,
but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines
on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board.
Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly
travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those
without valid or proper tickets.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
13
14
BASICS
Facts & Figures
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2011)
Poland: 38,538,447
Warsaw: 1,708,491
Krakw: 759,137
d: 728,892
Wrocaw: 631,235
Pozna: 554,696
Gdask: 460,517
Katowice: 310,764
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos 6,000z, other art 16,000z, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator
then can (and should) provide you with a zawiadczenie
(permission document) describing the artworks price and
when and where it was created. If the work exceeds the
permitted age or value, you must get permission from the
Wojewdzki Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind that this process will
likely take 2-3 months. Books must be less than 100 years
old and under 6,000z in value in order to leave the country;
otherwise, permission must be obtained from the National
Library. Obviously, problems arise when purchases are made
at bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide the
necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value
or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat
(antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every caf and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with
a simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu? If you dont have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Tourist Card
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece of
plastic that allows you free travel
on trams and buses, day and
night. The best bit is free entry
to over 30 Krakw museums - an impressive savings for
the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are available, priced at 60z and 80z respectively and they are
valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse.
Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Krakw
Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol.
Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list
of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
BASICS
Market Values
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of March 19, 2013
based on 1 = 4.11z
Product
Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac
8.70 z
2.12
Snickers
1.59 z
0.39
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
22.99 z 5.59
0.5ltr beer (shop)
3.49 z
0.85
0.5ltr beer (bar)
9.00 z
2.19
Loaf of white bread
2.19 z
0.53
20 Marlboros
13.60 z 3.31
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
5.62 z
1.37
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 z
0.92
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Language Smarts
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have forgotten the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Krakw and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation:
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Good evening
(formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
Dobry wieczr
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Mam na imi...
Im from England. Jestem z Anglii
Do you speak
Czy mwisz po
English?
angielsku?
I dont speak
Nie mwi po
Polish.
polsku.
I dont understand. Nie rozumiem.
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz.
Cheers!
Na zdrowie!
Where are the
Gdzie s toalety?
toilets?
You are beautiful. Jeste pikna.
I love you.
Kocham ci.
Please take me
Prosz zabierz mnie
home.
do domu.
Call me!
Zadzwo do mnie!
Airport
Train station
Bus station
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
One ticket to
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh
mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
15
16
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel.
(+48) 12 421 32 55, cracovia.cervantes.es.QOpen
09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library
open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30 - 13:00,
15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat of the
month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/
krakau.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Library open 11:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00.
Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
J u d a i c a Fo u n d a t i o n (Fu n d a c j a J u d a i c a)
D - 6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49,
www.judaica.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 14:00.
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z,
Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda) H-3, ul. Oleandry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl.QBox
office open 16:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets depending on repertoire.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
18
Opera Stages
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before the
performance. Tickets 15-140z.
Philharmonic Stages
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 20-40z.
Theatre Stages
Stary Teatr (Narodowy Stary Teatr) C-3, ul.
Jagielloska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.
pl. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two
hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50z. Y
Teatr Nowy E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel. (+48) 12 426 45
06, www.teatrnowy.com.pl. Q Box office open 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 30-40z.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
10.04 Wednesday
W W W . F A B R Y K A Z E S P O L O W . P L
17.04 Wednesday
24.04 Wednesday
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Exhibitions
15.02 Friday - 28.04 Sunday
19
20
Utopian Design
K- 4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4,
tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. A graduate of Poznas Academy of Fine Arts, Blamowskis
work will be simultaneously presented in two galleries
at MOCAK. Here we have a chance to see his more
utilitarian and decorative pieces: an eclectic bench, a
rosary praying game, an Art Deco newspaper rack and
a framed trophy among them. Always surprising and
provocative, Blamowksis trademark is his bastardisation of historical styles and per fection of craft. This
exhibit is in concert with his short films also on display,
but apparently also references the simultaneous Polish
and British sustainable design exhibit at MOCAK. Q
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one
hour before closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket
20z. Tue free.
Festivals
12.04 Friday - 21.04 Sunday
Live Music
01.04 Monday - 31.05 Friday
Chopin concerts
C-3, Polonia House, Rynek Gwny 14. Who doesnt
like to listen to a little Chopin while in Poland? Attending a
concert with music by Polands most famous pianist and
national treasure is practically obligatory for anyone with
an interest in classical music. From April until early May,
Polonia House will be hosting concerts twice a week, on
Tuesdays and Thursdays, inviting talented young pianists
to play mazurkas, waltzes, polonaises, and tudes. Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 50z. Available at theTourist
Information Centre (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 10:00 - 18:00)
and before the concert.
Philharmonic
25.04 Thursday
Valses de Vienne
B-4, Krakw Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 13 45, www.filharmonia.krakow.pl. Johann Strausss most beautiful Vienna waltzes will be yours
to behold this April, when Budapest Strauss Ballet and Orchestra makes an appearance at the Krakw Philharmonic.
Q Performance starts at 19:00. Tickets 120z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Krakw Philharmonic box office
(open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before
performance. Closed Mon).
10.05 Friday
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Folk Show
D -2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriaska 45, tel.
(+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com.
This famous secessionist cafe is a great place to
encounter Polish folk culture during these 90-minute
performances taking place on Wednesdays, Fridays,
Saturdays, and Sundays. Enjoy traditional Polish food
while being entertained by a local orchestra, folk dancers, and the legendary Lajkonik himself. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 85z. Available at Jama Michalika
everyday from 09:00.
Klezmer Music
krakow.inyourpocket.com
21
22
Special Events
06.05 Monday - 12.05 Sunday
Sleeping Beauty
E-5, Krakw Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. A musical
fairy tale for both children and adults, based on the
classic fable as told by Charles Perrault. Includes
music by Tchaikovsky (selected compositions from his
ballet, Sleeping Beauty), Mozart (excerpts from the
opera The Marriage of Figaro) and Edward Zawiliski
(couplets and polonaise). Q Event starts at 18:00.
Tickets 40-80z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera
box office (open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire).
Czyynalia
L-1, Museum of Polish Aviation Landing Strip (entrance
from ul. Bora-Komorowskiego). Czyynalia are a Juwenalia
music festival organised by students from the Krakw University
of Technology in the Czyyny district. This year the following artists will be performing at the landing strip: Sabaton, White Lies,
Happysad, Ira, and Oberschlesien on Friday; Within Temptation,
Guano Apes, Jelonek, Luxtorpeda, and Bracia Figo Fagot on
Saturday. Q Concerts start at 17:00. Access to the landing strip
from 16:30. Tickets 69-89z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik Megastore (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
Night of Museums
www.noc-muzeow.pl. The first Long Night of Museums
took place in Berlin in 1997, and the concept spread through
Europe like wildfire: currently over 120 major European cities
(and many minor ones) organise their own museum nights.
Krakw, with its bounty of museums and cultural institutions,
could be no different; and, thinking of the tourists, the city
decided to hold the event a night early, giving those interested
a chance to attend another one the following day (Warsaw,
maybe?). Inauguration will be at 18:00 on Friday in the Czapski Palace (ul. Pisudskiego 10-12, A-3). Visit the website for
more information. Q Event starts at 18:00. Admission free.
Sport
27.04 Saturday
28.04 Sunday
Chatskele, Chatskele!
Cracovia Marathon
12.05 Sunday
Theatre
The Musical Biography of Frank Sinatra
D-2, Sowacki Theatre, Pl. w. Ducha 1, www.royalart.com.
pl. The Royal Symphony Orchestra and Bobba Jazz Band will be
performing in this special musical honoring the life and times of
the brilliant singer Frank Sinatra. Therell be plenty of jazz, swing,
film music, and - of course - renditions of Sinatras greatest hits.
Over 100 artists will appear onstage, promising to make the production colorful, moving, and truly unforgettable. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 120-250z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Sowacki Theatre box office (open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00;
Mon 10:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00; Sun depending on repertoire).
krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
23
24
HOTELS
Lodgings at a Glance
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent
into elite status as a European destination, there
is no lack of accommodation options in this fabled
city. From fancy 5-star affairs to familiar franchises,
boutiques to bed and breakfasts, historic apartments
to some 60-odd hostels - you wont be hard-pressed
for a place to stay. With limited space, we obviously
cant list every sleeper in the city in our print guide,
however you can find a comprehensive list of Krakws
myriad accommodation options on both our website
and mobile application.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates
these days due to online booking discounts, special
offers and other price variations, we no longer find it
particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide.
Case in point, anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator
function on our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com
- will find a better rate than the official prices we once
printed; as such, we encourage you to do just that and
you can thank us later.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively
based on a combination of lodging type, location,
price and amenities, and in our print guide we only
list those lodgings that we most recommend to
tourists.
Below is a list of some recommendations to help you
find what youre looking for.
SPLURGE
The Sheraton and the Grand both have suites that
top the 1000 per night mark, with the Presidential
suite at Hotel Stary and apar tments of Palac
Bonerowski also coming close. Feel like youre
splurging without spending so much by booking
yourself and the missus into the Komorowski Luxury
Guest Rooms.
CHEAP
Greg & Tom is the most spacious hostel and Flamingo the most consistently acclaimed - both are
good options. For centrally located budget lodging
that trades drunken backpackers for a proper bed
and some privacy, try Tournet. Alternatively, visit
the nightlife section for suggestions on how to not
sleep at all.
LADS
Pack mentality suggests you stop pissing around
and just book into the ever-hospitable Sheraton.
However, if you need to cut costs, look into the Ibis
or stay central in Campanile or Pod Wawelem. Or
just make a reservation at the place you stayed
in when your other buddy got married last year.
Wed suggest an apartment, but we know youd
destroy it.
FAMILIES
Why not put the fam in an apartment? In addition
to allowing everyone in your clan a bit more room
to roam, you can also squeeze as many offspring
into the bed as possible at no extra cost and the
kids can be as loud as they want without irritating
anyone. Except you.
HOTELS
from the new Vanilla Spa throughout the entire hotel. The
spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds, unique
modern furnishings and soothing colours, and the third
floor apartments offer gorgeous views of the Wisa River
and Wawel Castle from their terraces. The philosophy of
well-being also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site restaurant which serves light fusion cuisine with only certified
organic ingredients. There is also a 4-star hotel directly
next door owned by the same people if youd rather keep
some of your cash to spend in the spa. Q40 rooms (38
singles, 38 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHAR
6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60
70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the
age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-ofthe-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here
and this is one place which guarantees the memorable stay
that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20
doubles, 2 apartments). PTYJHARUFL
GKDW hhhh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
25
26
HOTELS
Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06
06, www.hotel-amber.pl. Set across two floors and a loft
the Amber combines pleasing cream and caramel colours
to compliment the light and modern interiors. Rooms offer
satellite TV and internet access, as well as generous duvets
in which to sink inside. Found down a quiet street just minutes
from all the action. Q18 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles, 8
triples). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
journey across the river to Schindlers Factory and the
neighbouring Museum of Contemporary Art, and generally
more ideal for exploring Podgrze and Kazimierz than the
Old Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles, 50
triples, 5 suites). PTHARUFLGKDX
CwW hhhh
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This
newest luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa has more to
offer than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel.
The first Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand
is designed to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople. Rooms come with large workspaces, a separate
living area with a pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed
to relax your back and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the
most comfortable hotel room youve ever stayed in, a 24hour business centre, fitness centre, conference facilities,
bar and 2 restaurants are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147
singles, 147 doubles, 7 apartments). PTHARUF
GKW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12
433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located
a short walk from the train station and right on a corner
of the Royal Route its difficult to feel like youre staying anywhere other than the heart of the city. Modern
convenience in an elegant old building, the dapper
rooms include everything youd expect from a modern
upmarket hotel and guests can enjoy the use of a fitness
room and sauna, as well as conference facilities and a
stylish restaurant with strong reputation. Q35 rooms
(12 singles, 23 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHAR
FLGKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37,
www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored
tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spacious rooms
come with rich colours and modern trappings offering a fine
balance between past and present: wifi and satellite TV in
each and the doubles even come with proper beds. The
restaurant is full of stained glass, theres a beer garden in
summer and a full set of business facilities to boot. Q48
rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments). THA
R6UGKDW hhh
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.novotel.com. This beautiful,
modern hotel at the doorstep of the Old Town offers all
the comforts youd associate with a big brand name, plus
views of Wawel Castle and the river from the upper floors.
Fully handicap-accessible facilities, spacious rooms, airconditioning from top-to-bottom, a stylish restaurant and
fantastic hotel pool, hot tub and sauna all give you extra
reasons to make a booking here. Q198 rooms (192 singles,
192 doubles, 6 apartments). PTHA6UFGK
DCwW hhhh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
27
28
HOTELS
Mid-range
Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front
shields a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints
of classic works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby,
and free internet access inside each room. Smartly
appoi n te d rooms c om e wi th re d dish carp ets an d
bouncy beds, while the shining white bathrooms also
include hairdryers - not always a given in Poland. Q49
rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads).
PTHA6ULGW hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424
26 00, www.campanile.com. Following the Euro2012
madness, the rooms and interiors got a full freshening
up. Brightly decorated in the franchises flagship colours
of cream and green, amenities include satellite TV and
bathtubs. Within fast walking distance of the train station,
ask for a room on one of the top-floors for views overlooking
the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105
doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). PTJHA6UGW
hh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
Classic D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03
03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and
air-conditioning. Q31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 5
triples, 5 apartments). PTJAR6UGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters to all,
but keeps Jewish guests in mind with fragments of the Torah
on the doors, Krakws only truly kosher restaurant, original
paintings of Kazimierz life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual
bath house) in Poland. Q27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5
triples, 2 suites). THA6UGDW hhh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
29
30
HOTELS
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically
stylish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely
hotel for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast
unique balconies while all rooms come furnished with an
individual touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12
triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW
hhh
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mid-range
offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a
recent renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set inside
a historic townhouse, some of the 19th century secessionist touches have survived, including the glass roof of the
entrance and iron balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent
muralled courtyard will have you wishing it was summer all
year round, while the fabulous mosaicked wellness centre
will have you not caring to step outside at all. Q38 rooms
(9 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHARG
KDW hhh
Wyspiaski D-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)
12 422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the
blockish faade doesnt promise much, the Wyspiaski is
well worth every one of its three stars. Rooms have been
thoroughly modernised and feature rather natty patterned
duvets, private bathrooms and televisions. The gleaming
coaches regularly parked outside testify to its popularity
amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms (150 singles, 109
doubles, 81 triples). OTYHAR6ULGKW
hhh
Budget
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44,
www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski over the staircase is the first thing to
catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but
functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You
might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-yearold tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples,
2 quads, 2 apartments). PTJHA6GW hhh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
Apartments
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriaska 39, tel. (+48)
12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com. Several
locations around the historic centre - including the Floriaska
and Grodzka Aparthotels - with accommodation fitting up to
six people. Take a look at these prices, they are basically unbeatable. All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, satellite TV and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant
modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q30
rooms (30 apartments). TJA6UGKW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. (+48) 12 422 41
00, www.gregtomhostel.com. A top hostel offering internet
and DVD player, as well as hostel standards such as kitchen
and linen. Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest
boon here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds as
possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern
furnishings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Note that there is an
age(ist) policy of only accepting 18-60s. Also a second location
at ul. Zyblikiewicza 9 (D-3) and from March a third location at
ul. Floriaska 43 (C-2) that includes a restaurant and pub. Q8
rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 3 triples, 23 Dorm beds). AGW
The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and its
also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful, quarters come
with names that leave no doubt over what colours to expect on
opening the door, from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint
Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable pine bunks, while private
rooms are neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrought
iron furnishings and colourful bed spreads. The common room
features low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test,
plus theres laundry services, free internet access and a garden
for barbecues if the season is right. Secret Garden Hostel also
has six fantastic apartments close to the main hostel with three
others nearby in Kazimierz. Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles,
4 triples, 1 quad, 14 Dorm beds). TA6UGW
31
32
RESTAURANTS
Dining at a Glance
With the development of the market in Krakow, the
number of places to eat is now extremely wide, though
diversity seems to have been abandoned in favour of filling every Old Town locale with a Polish-Italian restaurant.
These are of course the two types of cuisine that Krakw
does well, while ethnic food is still too often compromised
in an attempt to make it more acceptable to the Polish
palate. As such, Krakws esteemed culinary rep is rated
as a bit generous by some in the industry.
While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the
city, the explosion of the market and sheer redundancy
of many places now makes it impossible for us to list
everything. In this section youll find reviews of what we
feel are the most note-worthy or high-profile establishments in town, in order to help you find a place worthy of
your time and money, as well as avoid those with prime
locations that are not worth visiting. While our print guide
carries a wide selection, there are even more listed on
our website where we encourage you to leave your own
reviews of the places youve visited.
All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when
you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of
recommendations depending on what youre looking for.
SPLURGE: Wierzynek remains the king of Krakw - the
citys oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the
Rynek. For something a bit more modern, try Szara
right next to St. Marys Basilica, or Kazimierzs Studio
Qulinarne, which features a splendid garden. The sophisticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus is
also bankable for your best meal while in town.
CHEAP: A traditional Polish milk bar is as cheap as
youll eat anywhere with a menu in your life, and the
clearly marked Bar Mleczny at ul. Grodzka 43 (C-4) is
the easiest to find. For something Polish with a bit of
atmosphere try Polakowski. If youre not a fan of Polish
food, Alebriche - Krakws Mexican eatery - is excellent, Bagelmama is an old standby, or head to Momo
for something healthy and - youll never guess - green.
LADS: Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like
a king for pauper prices in one of Krakws two breweries - CK Browar and Stara Zajezdnia, or try Pod
Wawelem where the bathroom features a vomitorium
for those who over-consume. For less of a proper meal
hit up a Zakski Przekski (see our box) for Polish
tapas and cheap beer.
FAMILIES: Located near the market square, Mamy
Cafe (see Cafes) was made specifically to give parents
travelling with young children in tow a bit of a reprieve;
head there directly. Near Wawel, Pod Wawelem has a
sizable rumpus room for kids and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES: Finding a romantic spot in this city is not
difficult. The city itself is a marvellous backdrop for
a romantic weekend and with cafes and restaurants
seemingly on every corner and in every courtyard you
shouldnt have to search far. Make a reservation in
ZaKadka, Resto Illuminati, Trufla or Aqua e Vino,
or for a particularly memorable evening, take a cab out
to enjoy the outstanding views at U Ziyada.
American
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs link
with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli staple
back to the city where its speculated that the doughy ring may
even have been invented all those years ago; and ironically
across from Polands oldest synagogue no less. Inside this
big, bright caf youre likely to meet Nava, its Yankee owner,
as he scurries back and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and
chatting with customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with
the toppings of your choice, with options including sun-dried
tomato cream cheese, humus, alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon
and more. Burritos are back on the menu, plus soup, wraps,
falafel and the new bagel burger. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. (7-21z). TA6UGSW
Asian
Horai D-7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 03 58, www.
horairestaurant.pl. A veritable veteran of the sushi scene at
this point, Horai had a significant hand in turning Plac Wolnica
over from a culinary no-mans-land to a stable of respectable
restaurants. With the short move across the square, Horai
now inhabits a more modern contemporary interior devoid
of illuminated panoramic photo-walls, paper lanterns or
origami hi-jinks. Instead its a sharp, organic design with lots
of blonde woods and an entire wall of stacked stones. An
enticing menu with broad appeal covers Japanese and Thai
cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi sets, curries and
grill offerings. One of the most affordable meals of its kind
in town and still one of the best. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z). PTA6UVGSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
34
RESTAURANTS
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48)
ASIAN EATERY
www.yellowdog.pl
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel.
(+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl.
Krakws finest French restaurant is a magnificent white
tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout
the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras
and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval
cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if youre
going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few better places to do it than here, and thats a fact recognized by
none other than the Michelin Guide. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(42-96z). TAGBW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as
roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar
juice. The set tasting menus are a good value at 58-78z.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-58z). PTA6X
La Fontaine
NEW
Hungarian
Balaton C-4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04
69, www.balaton.krakow.pl. This veteran restaurant
and its mature, no-nonsense waitresses have aged well,
not changing a whit since establishing itself as one of the
citys first restaurants. Sure, the rustic folk interior is a bit
outdated, but the food is still a bargain, with portions so
big youd be wise to share that plate of goulash-smothered
potato pancakes - even the soups and stews can represent
a meal on their own. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-50z).
PTAGS
krakow.inyourpocket.com
35
RESTAURANTS
36
INDIAN
RESTAURANT
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not a
bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent, but
the same couldnt be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken Masala
Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree extra
spicy here certainly wont leave your kids orphaned. If nothing
else its a decent diversion from all the menorahs and prayer
shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants. Find a pleasant
interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of Himalayan mountain
scenes and photo albums of the staff and guests journeys
in the homeland. Bollywood dance performances are also organised in the summer garden. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (18-42z). PTA6UVEGBSW
NEW
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic urek soup - few places do it better - before moving
on to more notable nosh like the venison that will have you
wondering how such simple flavours can be so rich. The superior quality of this establishment has been grandfathered
into Krakws restaurant scene, and offers the rare chance
to eat well right off of Mozarts flatwared face. Q Open
07:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 22:00. (29-69z). PTYAUG
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
tion. Try the chef specialty lamb braised in red wine with
fresh garlic and vegetable while enjoying views of the Wisa
and Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-65z). PTAUEGW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
April - May 2013
37
38
RESTAURANTS
Lunch
Lunch, or obiad in local parlance, has always been
the primary Polish mealtime in a feeding schedule that
generally bookends small bites for breakfast and dinner
around this laboriously prepared afternoon feast. A
typical Polskie obiad includes soup, meat and salads,
followed by something sweet. However, going out to eat
the traditionally home-cooked meal has never been a
popular Polish practice, unless its to a budget cafeteria.
As such, youd usually find all of the citys finest restaurants with empty dining rooms until the onset of dusk.
Taking their cues from Warsaw, however, the trend of the
budget lunch deal has now reached Krakw and many of
the citys best restaurants are now strategising to fill their
seats by offering multi-course meals in the afternoon at
prices that are a fraction of what you would pay a la carte.
As such, its a great way to enjoy some of the citys most
elegant establishments without breaking the bank or feeling out of place. Youll notice offers for two-or-three course
set meals priced from 15-30z (4-7 Euro) all around the Old
Town, and weve listed some of the best offers below. Bear
in mind that these are not budget restaurants, but special
day-time offers from restaurants that might otherwise be
out of the price range of some, and that the prices rarely
include something to drink. Smacznego.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
40
RESTAURANTS
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gobia 2, tel. (+48) 12
430 73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name
comes off as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminatis
connotations of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an
apt portrayal of this attractive restaurant hedging modern
Warsaw style into a medieval Krakw setting. Most enjoyable and undervalued is the ability to dine in ancient vaulted
brick surroundings without being buried underground in a
windowless crypt. Check the wall-length blackboard for daily
specials before considering roast fillet of lamb, with date,
spinach and pine nut stuffing, wrapped in Serrano ham with
lamb liver, ratatouille and mint sauce. Oh yes. Also worth
checking out for breakfast and their daily lunch specials
served 12:00 - 17:00. Reassuringly theres no need for
blood rites to be a regular. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. (46-77z).
PTA6EGBSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.theolive.sheraton.pl. Top
class Mediterranean and Polish dishes served inside the impressive environs of the Sheratons voluminous interior atrium.
The glass roof makes it possible to dine under the stars while
the foliage dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere.
The best ingredients money can buy are complemented by
graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining at its
best. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30;
Mon 06:30 - 10:30, Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00. (30-94z). PTAUEGSW
Tradycyja C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96
16, www.tradycyja.pl. The main tradycja (tradition) of this
historic market square locale seems to be re-branding itself
every year, but that hardly dents the success of this tourist
magnet under the same management as the legendary
Wierzynek restaurant. Though somewhat haunted by the
spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner
goes largely unused), theres no need to mess with what is
still a marvellous dining space blending old Polish aristocracy
with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber
ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love
for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights
of previous kitchens, ranging from grilled polenta with nuts
and gorgonzola sauce to pork tenderloin with plum-vodka
sauce. The results cover for the sometimes uneven service,
and the prices are well within reason. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(17-55z). TAUEGSW
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41.
The Krakw dining scene continues to improve and this cosy
place on Pl. Szczepaski sets itself apart by offering great
food at the right price. A simple, predominantly white decor
with wooden furniture allows you to relax while interpreting
the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher handwritten
cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open kitchen lets
you in on the creative cooking process and the year-round
garden - with its small Japanese-style garden - is one of the
most gorgeous youll find around. With limited tables inside
and out, plus Truflas loyal band of followers, reservations
might be wise. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
(20-40z). A6GBSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Hotel
Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors
of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the
modern with finely preserved details of this ancient building.
Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist,
the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather,
meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest
ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95z). PTA6UGSW
U Ziyada ul. Jodowa 13 (Przegorzay Castle, Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05, www.uziyada.pl. Pretty
much the most romantic restaurant in Krakw, if youve got
a date, blindfold them, put them in a cab and bring them
here. Set inside a magnificent castle perched atop a jag of
limestone poking out of Wolski Forest, the enormous semicircular terrace offers outstanding panoramic views of the
Wisa River and Tatra Mountains in the distance, and with
these prices youre basically getting them for free. The menu
is a mix of international dishes, plus dishes from traditional
Polish and Kurdish cooking, and the environment is literally fit
for royalty. Worth the trip. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (23-60z).
TAGBSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
41
42
RESTAURANTS
Burgers
Corner Burger E-6, ul. Dajwr 25, tel. (+48) 535
85 01 09. Krakws Battle of the Burgers is officially
underway and this small feed station makes a strong
argument for itself. With a few elements of Americana
- laminated menus, classic chequered tablecloths - the
simple interior stops short of achieving any retro-chic
appeal it might be trying for, thanks in part to amateurish
paintings of Jules Winnfield (Samuel Ls character from
Pulp Fiction) declaring Tasty Burger! We certainly
wouldnt disagree with that, though: requiring two hands
and enough concentration to kill any mealtime conversation, our Firehouse was delicious, with the perfect
amount of toppings and heat. Theres no soda fountain,
but they do make some pretty decent shakes, and the hip
surf rock soundtrack is priceless. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-50z). TAGSW
Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 793
79 32 12. Full of strange graffiti, slick graphics and a
collection of wind-up robots, this hipster headquarters
even includes a downstairs art gallery. As for food, Love
Krove takes the burger concept and pushes it beyond
your expectations; in fact, well beyond the capacity of
your open mouth and maybe your stomach too. These
burgers are so stacked with tantalising toppings (including guacamole, gorgonzola, rucola, chorizo and more)
you can hardly fit them in your face, and its good sport
watching the locals try to knife and fork them (sigh).
Served on a fresh roll, most of the burgers on the menu
come overflowing with mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce,
meaning you may want to build your own to make eating
less of a mess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. (15- 25z). TA6GSW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 44, www.moaburger.com. Like most things from
New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear
from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior
that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and
shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve certainly
super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate
just wouldnt do) and you might even consider splitting
one with a friend if you have any other meals planned
later in the day. Piled with the toppings of your choice,
in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers arent a mess to
eat. In fact theyre darn enjoyable, though youll discover
its not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries
and a drink coming in over 30z. Still, this is Krakws
most popular burger joint. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (11-28z). PTA6GSW
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club D-3, ul. witego
Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97. On first glance this
club looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses,
collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic
interior that looks more designed for a romantic date than
spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The
menu reveals an array of options from tartare to trout,
but wheres the beef? In the delicious, but not too dense
burgers, of which there are 17 variations, including chicken
and vegetarian substitutes. Patties are thin and oblong,
as are the buns, so that when cut in half you have what
would pass in most places as two burgers on your plate.
Steaks are offered at two weights so that you dont get
priced out, and the prevailingly realistic prices and random
music playlist make this place a lot less pretentious than
it first appears, and one well be coming back to.QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (20-69z). PTAUVGBS
Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA),
tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. The flagship
restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky takes a
healthy approach as one of the citys only restaurants to get all of
their ingredients from certified organic sources, and the chef has
constructed a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced
fusion dishes that will make you want to happily commit to the
eco-craze. Choose between options like courgette cream soup
with chanterelle ravioli or Argentinian steak served with Paris baguette and Provencal vegetables. Set in the centre of a spacious
dining room on the hotels third floor, the well-dressed tables circle
a gorgeous Yamaha Grand Touch piano on which live concerts are
given by a local maestro Thursday to Saturday from 12:00-22:30
and Sunday from 14:00-16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-69z).
PTAUEGSW
Israeli
Hamsa E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.
hamsa.pl. Located in a district whose dining establishments
still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past (see the
place next door if you need an example), finally here comes a
restaurant free of pre-war nostalgic dcor and wooden roof
fiddlers, where Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional East
European fare. Making a bold impression simply by being bright,
modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic
Middle Eastern specialties from the kitchens of Israel, Palestine
(everyones friends over good food), Syria and Saudi Arabia in
a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing,
and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the several types of hummus, babaganoush, falafel, labnah and
muhammarah (our recommended choice), but are also beautifully
presented in hand-painted dish ware. Dont skip dessert or miss
the list of Israeli wines either. Fairly-priced and generally a breath
of fresh air on what was becoming a stuffy street, Hamsa is a
delight. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (24-41z). TAGBSW
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 18.
A light and airy room with a cream and modern look. This is
where the local sophisticates have been seen heading, drawn
no doubt by Sardinian cuisine prepared by the imported chef.
Authenticity is topped off by the ingredients, most of which
come shipped direct from Italy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (2255z). TA6UGBXSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
44
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 430
04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find some of Krakws best
pizza dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven and the
choice of numerous other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia
is more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual dining, and the
army of regulars is testament to Mamma Mias growing reputation, even luring them in for breakfast (served 07:45-12:00, Sat
08:00-12:00, Sun 09:00-12:00) with fresh panzerotti, eggs,
muffins and more. QOpen 07:45 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43z). PTAUGBS
krakow.inyourpocket.com
45
46
RESTAURANTS
Breakfast
A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a cigarette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western
countries where the direction of ones day seems to
superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good breakfast, here in PL the notion of starting the day right with
a fortifying meal just hasnt caught on. In fact ask five
Polish working girls what theyve had to eat that day come
13:00, and you can bet at least three of them havent
had more than a cup of yogurt, claiming theyre just not
hungry in the mornings. Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as
you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear
not - they do exist and weve provided the details of the
best below. Smacznego, champ.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Japanese
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55/1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. While virtually
unheard of in Krakw a few years ago, Genji is the latest
in a line of raw fish flayers to come to town, and the high
quality food, prepared by Japanese sushi chefs, makes
an instant argument for itself as the cream of the local
crop. An upstairs sushi bar leads to an intimate brick
downstairs dining area where each table occupies its own
room. Taking itself a bit too seriously to explain some of the
kitschy decor touches, the extensive menu of Korean and
Japanese dishes and expensive sushi sets also includes
condescending directions on how to eat your food. However
all is forgiven when it arrives, with eyebrow-raising prices
justified by the spot-on results. Premium indeed. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(20-60z). TAVGSW
WE WELCOME YOU
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
ul. Poselska 18/1
tel.12 42 252 66
WWW.KOJISUSHI.PL
April - May 2013
47
48
RESTAURANTS
Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48)
500 11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year progression of an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go
something like this: Year one the city receives the moniker
The New Prague, year two a jillion hostels open, year three
a jillion clubs open, and year four - where Krakw currently
finds itself - its all sushi restaurants. Musso sushi seems
to benefit from those who came before by not having to try
so hard. The menu is more simple and straight-forward and
here the chefs (shaved-head Polish men that they are) are
actually brave enough to prepare your food right in front of you
on the other side of the long dark wooden bar which can seat
about 30 people on its three sides. They do a commendable
job and we actually find eating here to be more of a joy than
an exercise in pretension. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-100z).
PTAVGSW
Jewish
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20,
www.ariel-krakow.pl. Youll hear mixed reports emanating
from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than
disappointing weve met more than a number of people extolling the virtues of Ariels varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to
the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (1978z). PTA6EBXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Kazimierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17,
www.dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the outside this
venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century
trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the
areas Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the
inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters
work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at
capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those
tracing the districts past. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (21-49z).
A6EGBS
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have consummated
the strange marriage of their strikingly different national
cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil - Krakws unique
Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The menu is an even split
of dishes from the two countries and is available in English,
making it all the easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean
highlights (like empanadas) other than the steak - still a
reliably fantastic value at 45z. Located on a quiet street
midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy the range
of Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where images of
gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls alongside
characters from Czech folklore. Great food and great prices
have made DiB a favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-65z).
TIGBSW
Krakw In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. From the same owner of the
esteemed (and thoroughly expat-approved) Metropolitan,
we personally prefer Manzana - its Latin sister in Kazimierz.
Manzanas New Latin concept cuisine consists of meat and
fish dishes alongside reinvented classics (the massive burritos
can be prepared a number of ways) served in a chic interior of
dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin music.
Though the prices aim a bit high, the service and atmosphere
are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place
youd want to frequent often. The daily specials encourage
you to do just that and the weekend brunch (served all day) is
legendary. Q Open 07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 24:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. (20-50z). PTA6GBSW
Pimiento E-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 02,
www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento,
this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic
hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento
gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if youve had
one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head
here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a
good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection
of South American wines wash it down. A second location in
the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (42-110z). PTAUGSW
Mediterranean
Portofino E-6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 37,
www.portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price served on
a quiet, atmospheric side street across from Kazimierzs
High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up the menu you
can expect good pasta and some wonderful tossed salads,
however the highlight of our last visit was the paella: certainly
the best in Krakw, if it even has any competition. Sit on the
terrace if you can; inside things get a bit more formal. Drop by
between 12:00 and 16:00 for a special lunch menu featuring
most of the menus entrees plus a soup starter for only 20z.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (17-59z). TA6UGBSW
Mexican
Alebriche A-1, ul. Karmelicka 56. In a town that should be
admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily has
almost nothing in common with its competition, and heres
the simple difference: its actually owned and operated by a
local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult following since
its opening, Alebriche sends local expats into ecstasy with its
simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes
everything from huevos rancheros to flan, with nacho sets, spicy
soups, tamales, proper chicken mole and more in between. In
addition to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place
in town where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but
bright, colourful interior full of photos and folk art confirms that
the focus is on food - so good youll be coming back until youve
tried everything on the menu. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (13-30z). AGSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
49
50
RESTAURANTS
The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriaska 34, tel. (+48) 500
Polish
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12
431 21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyones list for
a night of fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak.
Instead this is a local place for local people who cram
around the wooden tables to eat huge portions of wellloved standards, from cheap pierogi to excellent bigos
to great big golonka. Order from the board or ask for an
English menu. Set meals of soup, a side, potatoes and a
main go for 16z, meaning you can eat like a Polish king
for peanuts. Open late and we love it. QOpen 11:00 22:00. (10-16z). T6UGS
NEW
52
RESTAURANTS
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Polish
Restaurant
M i d i W i n o (H o n ey a n d W i n e) C - 2 , u l .
Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.
miodiwino.pl. Champion dishes of traditional Polish fare
in a setting piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers
and suits of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost
extra, and youll need to explain clearly how you expect
your meat to be cooked; but the flair of the service,
quality of the food and fondness of the folk musicians
playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere thats
completely worth being in. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (2080z). PTAUEXS
Mid Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka
40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Consistently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina establish
themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book
ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by
the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant comes with raspberries painted onto the walls and
a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral
touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage
atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and
Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low
making a visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin
Guide 2012 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (2660z). PTAUGSW
Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12
431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Morskie Oko
aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so theres
plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits
bursting out of tradtional costume and regular live bands
making a racket. The food is caveman in style, delicious
hunks of grilled animals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-45z).
PTAEGSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
53
54
RESTAURANTS
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a roadside
stand as youre driving through the countryside, but there
are a few places in Krakw that have proven peerless when
it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria where its served with
pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where the servings slip
right off the bone and are so impossibly large wed prefer
not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties
to watch for including Krakowska, a Krakw specialty
seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry
sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a
blood sausage filled with groats and pigs blood. These
youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head to
Kiebasa z Rozna at the Hala Targowa marketplace (E4) between 20:00 and 03:00 to get a taste of Krakws
most famous sausage. Here, two old-timers have been
serving sausage out of a van, cooking it over a woodstoked grill, since time immemorial at this hallowed
sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
krakow.inyourpocket.com
55
56
RESTAURANTS
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Wawrzyca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. After spending decades completely
abandoned, this old tram depot (across from the Transportation Museum) has assumed a second life as Krakws biggest
brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and
timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia sadly suffers for its size,
however, and the impressive main hall - which features the
citys longest bar - has already been deemed too impractical
to open for group reservations of less than 100. The smaller
out-building that presently serves as the main dining hall can
still feel pretty lonely without a large party on hand, but if you
happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat screens are on hand
for football and the porter, wheat, lager and honey ales do well
to wash down the ribs, pork knuckle and other tasty traditional
fare tailored to complement the on-site brewed beer. Once
that pops your buttons, dont overlook the separate menu of
single cask, single malt whiskies - a first for Krakw - if you
want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
57
58
RESTAURANTS
May Days
Spring ushers in the arrival of not only fair weather to
Poland, but also the countrys National Holiday Season,
which in addition to Easter offers two other dates to note
down in the diary:
First up is May 1st, otherwise known as Labour
Day, and a direct leftover from the communist lurch.
In those days it was dominated by parades, concerts
and coordinated gatherings to celebrate the glories
of socialism, and while Poland was gradually edging
further and further away from Moscows manipulation,
the people were damned if they were going to give up a
well-deserved day off from work. Despite the political
and social changes Poland has since experienced, and
the sour memories of Stalinist posturing, the post-communist government opted to keep the plebiscite
happy and maintain May1stas a public holiday only
without any red flag and party badge nonsense. As
such, it resembles the American Labour Day, which
is basically a day off for the sake of having a day off.
Amen to that.
Adding to the good news is that Poles find themselves with another day off before Labour Day has
evenbecome a memory.May3rdisConstitution
Day, which in contrast to the history of May 1st,
is one of the most important annual celebrations
of Polish independence and nationalism. It was on
this day that the Polish Sejm (parliament) proudly
signed what was to become Europes first national
constitution (and second in the world) in Warsaws
Royal Castle back in 1791. A ground-breaking document that introduced political equality between
the bourgeoisie and the nobility, it also placed the
peasant class under the protection of the government, thereby guaranteeing them safety from any
nasty aristocratic masters.StanisawAugustPoniatowski, the Polish king at that time, described the
constitution as founded principally on those of
England and the United States, but avoiding the
faults and errors of both. These sweeping social
reforms were welcomed by most Poles, and it was
such a landmark event it was immediately declared
a national holiday. Not everyone was happy however,
namely Polands bullying neighbours. Fearing the
economic, military and patriotic resurgence of a
country so long kowtowed by them, Russian troops invaded Polish soil and in 1795 Poland began
what would become 123 years of partitions. The
May3rdholiday was outlawed and the short-lived
constitution was described by two of its co-authors,
Ignacy Potocki and Hugo Kotaj, as the last will
and testament of the expiring country. When Poland
regained independence in 1918 May3rdonce more
became a day of national celebration, though was
banned again by the Nazis, and then the communists
who followed. The holiday was restored to its current
mantle in 1990, and today is very much seen as a
triumph of the common good over repression.
Together the May holidays are known locally as Majwka and are a popular time for Poles get out of town
for a few days. As like Easter before it, those visiting
the country on either May1stor3rdmay find efforts
to enjoy themselves thwarted, as a large number of
restaurants and bars choose to shut their doors over
this period.
Russian
Winiowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430 21
11, www.kuchniarosyjska.com. Winiowy Sad offers Russian,
Ukrainian and Caucasus specialities like lamb dumplings, caviar
blini, pelmieni dried squid beer snacks and a borscht that would
rival that of the villages best babushka. Part-time chef, classical
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Plac Szczepaski 8
31-011 Krakw
tel. +48 12 43 12 423
l
www.morskieoko.krakow.p
o.krakow.pl
morskieoko@morskieok
Morskie Oko R
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. w. Marka 16 (corner of ul. w. Jana),
tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, www.farina.com.pl. Homemade
pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a devoted local
following and industry accolades. The aromatic, high-quality
Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched by the setting:
three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a comfortable,
homey style fitted with unfinished wood. The best time to visit
Farina is between Thursday and Sunday when the seafood
and oysters, imported from Brittany and Italy, are the most
fresh. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-89z). PTAXSW
Riverboat Dining
Augusta E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. (+48) 728 52
94 13, www.restauracjaaugusta.pl. This imposingly
large and modern river barge makes the neighbouring Barka
docked next door seem modest and outmoded. In terms of
riverboat dining, Augusta is as contemporary as it gets, with
a stylish and surprisingly spacious post-industrial design of
polished aluminium and glass letting in plenty of natural light.
Augustas two enviable sun decks can seat up to 60 people
combined, every interior table comes with a great view, and
somehow its all handicap accessible, even boasting an
elevator; honestly, the effect isnt unlike an upscale hotel
restaurant on the water. As such the service is top-notch and
youd be silly to skip over the Mediterranean-inspired menu,
featuring tuna tartare and beef cheeks in wine sauce.QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (20-60z). PTA6UGBSW
Spanish
NEW
59
60
RESTAURANTS
Milk Bars
A lot has changed over the years since communism got
kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destination as popular as Krakw hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic
remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar. These
steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide
a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the
atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station
restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you
can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar (bar
mleczny in Polish) is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of being the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk
bar was actually opened on Krakws market square
on May 30th 1948 in the townhouse now occupied by
the upstanding Szara restaurant. Named Pod Bak
(Under the Milk Churn), originally no hot dishes were
served; this was a place where you went simply to enjoy
milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass
with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this
was the new partys clever attempt at popularising
milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by
Polands large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants
were nationalised and then shut down by PLs communist
authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across
the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals
to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals
at the local milk bar were included in a workers salary.
By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across
Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast
food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently).
In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other
dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg
cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times
were so desperate under communism that many bar
mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll still
notice today that most milk bars use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by bluehaired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food
is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat
isnt rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, todays
milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as
the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in
PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism
most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately
for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below
are our favourites in the city centre:
Thai
Samui B-3, ul. Wilna 10, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 65,
www.samui.com.pl. After a successful launch several
years ago, and subsequent move into the Old Town, reports
from Samui - Krakws only exclusively Thai restaurant at the
moment - have been mixed at best, leading to an appearance on Magda Gesslers Kuchenne Rewolucje (Kitchen
Revolutions) TV show in April 2012. Despite the makeover
- including an exceedingly colourful intrior emboldened with
golden elephants and sleeping buddhas - Ms. Magdas magic
seems to have been short-lived, and Samui continues to
garner meh reviews from customers unimpressed with the
slow service and slightly over-priced, mediocre food. Dont
be over-bold on the spice quotient here, however - medium
will actually too hot for some palettes. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(24-52z). PTAGSW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12
421 92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran restaurant has survived the test of time and continues to serve
up consistently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks, steaks,
pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht - at suitably Ukranian
bargain prices. Small children running amok all over the gorgeous courtyard garden further adds to the authenticity, but
may have you heading to their folksy cellar where pleasant
peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles of underappreciated
Ukrainian beer coming to your table. Try all fifteen varieties
and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl victim. QOpen 12:00 22:00. (14-30z). TAGBSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul. Jzefa
since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side
summer seating, Mynek also serves a smattering of yummy
vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread,
quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho,
but served hot). Sunday brunch complete with live classical
music between 11:00 and 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (16-23z). PTA6EGBSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
5HVWDXUDQWDQGFDIH8=L\DGD
ul. Jodowa 13, Krakw
tel. +48 12 429 71 05, +48 784 084 000
restauracja@uziyada.pl, www.uziyada.pl
bit to be desired. Its also just off the market square, making
it the most central of all Krakws veggie offerings. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (1122z). PT6GBSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
61
62
CAFS
Krakw is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals that
of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps even
outmatching them pound for pound. In fact, it was a famous
Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the first coffeehouse in
Vienna. Krakws Kazimierz district is particularly known for
its atmospheric cafes, filled with candlelight, antiques and Old
World mystique. Most Cracovian cafes also serve alcohol and
the line between cafe and bar can be a blurry one indeed. The
venues weve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes over
beer and booze and when most cafe/bar establishments are
turning up the music for their til last guest clientele, these
are more often closing their doors.
wooden tables and white walls. At its best in the mornings with
great coffee and breakfast offerings (note the all-you-can-eat
weekend brunch buffet for only 15z), daily lunch specials accompany soup, sandwiches, quiche and a good beer selection.
Essentially the antithesis of everything in the Old Town, with
Bal Krakws young creatives are marking their territory. Find
it and find out. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Mon 08:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. TA6UGSW
Gelato Caff
CAFS
BVF[Q
AQ\[TXQTTQTQT[RF[Q2Q
Krakw: Zamek Krlewski - Wawel 9, 31-001 Krakw, tel. (12) 422 05 90, Open Mon-Sun 9.00-17.00
Polish Desserts
Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a
good dessert. Ranging from doughnuts and pastries
to a plethora of cakes and tortes, many of which have
come to be associated with particular holidays, Polish
desserts are known for not being too sweet and for too
often incorporating marmalade, gelatine or alcohol (in our
opinion, anyway). The classic Polish desserts we list below
can be purchased in any cukiernia (pastry shop) worth
its salt (or sugar, as the case may be) and many cafes.
Sernik
Polish for cheesecake, sernik is one of the countrys most
popular desserts and youll have a hard time convincing
any Pole youve been to their country if you dont try it.
Made with a sweet curd cheese (twarg) and served
cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with
raisins, gelatine or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family
has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these
delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers.
Szarlotka
Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world
come from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard
served almost everywhere you go. Made with shortbread,
the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon
and cloves.
Kremwka
A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled
with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered
sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremwka was
popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who
krakow.inyourpocket.com
63
64
CAFS
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Krakw hotels, Royal Art
Cafe is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel
that houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows
overlooking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help
you start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can
catch some sports or world news in English. But Royal Arts
biggest draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind
the bar which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen
the collar at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
PAGSW
Sodki Wawel B-6, Wawel 9 (in the courtyard next to
Wawel Visitor Centre), tel. (+48) 12 422 05 90, www.
wawel.com.pl. As well it should be, the flagship sweets
shop of this well-known and well-loved local chocolatier and
confectionery is located in the courtyard of Wawel Castle itself.
Featuring a full cafe and splendid terrace in the spring and summer, no ticket is required to enter and enjoy this historic brand
which has been satisfying sweet tooths since 1898. Stop in to
pick up an edible souvenir and try the popular local specialties
Mieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krwka, Malaga and
more. Wawel has shops nationwide, as well as three more in
Krakw at Rynek Gwny 33 (C-3), ul. Kalwaryjska 19-21 (I-5)
and ul. Wielopole 12 (D-4). Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. From May
open 09:00 - 20:00 PAUGBSW
NEW
to not just wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a
weekend location with a large garden at ul. w. Wawrzyca 9/2
(D-7, open Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00). QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TA6GSW
NIGHTLIFE
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the highest density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars
can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the
Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of
course, are the thousands of tourists that flock to Krakw
every year, and with higher tourism comes higher prices:
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. The opening hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking,
the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations
depending on what youre looking for.
Nightlife at a Glance
Beer Gardens
Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than
sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in
your hand, recounting the events of the night before,
making half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft
art projects youll never follow through with. In fact some
people seem to have made a living out of such blissful
idleness (theyre called ex-pats). While all of Krakw may
seem like a beer garden in the summer months, contrary
to the evidence in front of you, it is not legal to drink in
public spaces, whether its the Planty, the Wisa riverbank
or elsewhere. Nor should you need to. With more bars
per capita than any other city in Europe, suddenly every
single one has a garden full of patio furniture the moment
the sun comes out. So which to choose? Most foreigners
will keep to the market square (C-3), and while the views
and vibe are super, youll find that every establishment
on the market square charges 50% more for beer; every
one except the venerable Vis a Vis (Rynek 29) that is,
where a beer is still a swallowable 8z. On the squares
opposite side seek out the courtyard of Buddha Bar
(Rynek 6) where DJs spin records under the stars. Other
Old Town notables include Bunkier - a positively huge
terrace on the Planty (B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a), Klub Re
(D-3, ul. w. Krzya 4), and the popular nook known as
Doubting Thomas Lane (C-3, ul. w. Tomasza). Track
down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco drinking
at its finest - Plac Nowy (D-6) is a no-brainer, though
for the most scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (D-6, ul.
Meiselsa 20). Also, dont forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - far
less lively than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as
well and catches sun later into the evening.
65
66
NIGHTLIFE
Polish Vodka
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink,
cherry-flavoured variety. Youll see students and
pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well
as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of
tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is
often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red
monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the
16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to
the primeval Biaowiea Forest that straddles the border
(a blade of which appears in each bottle), ubrwka is
faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown
hay and a subtle taste which has been described as
floral or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully
smooth as it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly
combined with apple juice a refreshing concoction
called a tatanka.
Goldwasser
A celebrated Gdask tradition since 1598, Goldwasser
is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat
gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in
the world, Goldwassers secret recipe contains some
20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but
spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.
While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an
example of creative ingenuity, were not sure what sort of
statement the practice of turning gold into vodka makes
about Polish culture...
krakow.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
f7ZREDUV
f3RROf'DUWV
f6.<z79
(All matches shown)
67
68
NIGHTLIFE
Zakski Przekski
Known as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers &
Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some,
these 24 hour budget snack bars have popped up
like weasels all over Krakw, cashing in on communist
nostalgia and the appeal of low prices. The Zakski
Przekski formula includes a small selection of simple,
local appetisers typically served cold and priced at 8z,
with drinks at a fixed rate of 4z. Familiar as the bar
snacks of the lean communist years, the menu reads like
a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question Foods
that follow vodka and typically includes ledz (pickled
herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa
(sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk
bar with a liquor license, Zakski Przekski offer budget
food and drink late night and are a great place to meet
the citys strangest characters. We list the best below:
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-3, ul. w. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas
Lane, Pijalnias around the clock crowds make it hard to
miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street
urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried
and trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu
of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs
that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally. Second location at
ul. Szewska 20 (B-3). Q Open 24hrs. GW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SHERATON.COM/KRAKOW
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
70
NIGHTLIFE
Late Night Eats
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska
and ul. Szewska in the Old Town, the best of them
is Pod Oson Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich
witych and ul. Grodzka (C-4); though with the low
quality of Cracovian kebabs, thats not saying much.
Your options are actually better than that, from all
night pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring
bars that have sprung up all over town (see Zakski
Przekski). Perhaps Polands most popular street
food is the zapiekanka (see Cracovian Cooking
box for more) and the best place to get one is out of
one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse
(D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00.
Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food
spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. For more on Krakws
best late night eats, see below:
Clubs
With roughly 120,000 students and a growing tourist
industry egging it on, Krakws club scene continues to
expand beyond reason, with each successive offing trying to
out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high streets
are Floriaska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where narry a
medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students
on a Friday or Saturday night. Dont be surprised to encounter
weekend cover charges ranging anywhere from 5-20z at
most venues, and dont expect to find toilet paper in any of
them after 22:00. Clubs in the Kazimierz district appear in
their own section.
NIGHTLIFE
krakow.inyourpocket.com
71
72
NIGHTLIFE
Live Music
Lizard King C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48)
601 69 20 32, www.lizardking-krakow.pl. Following their success in other Polish cities, Lizard King
has brought music to the masses of Krakw, largely
otherwise deprived of a proper rock venue. Expect paid
entry to see their nightly noisy Polish rock acts, plus
expensive beer and cocktails that do nothing to dent its
popularity. An abundance of balconies and tables leading
to a large stage with an old-school LED display pixelating
behind it make up the head-banging burnt sienna interior.
Arrive early or reserve a table if you have more than a
passing interest in the evenings performance. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. From May open
15:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. Concerts generally
start at 20:00 or 21:00. PAEXW
NIGHTLIFE
www.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Adult Entertainment
Gold Club B-2, ul. Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 12 426
02 53, www.goldclub.com.pl. If youre in Krakw with
the lads, chances are good that youre going to end up
in one of the citys strip joints and few can match Gold
Club. This veteran skin showcase has always been one
of Krakws best and most trusted, and its move to a
new space in the Old Town only means you dont have to
pay cab fare to get there, or feel like youre trapped once
you do. Chances are youll be getting comfortable rather
quickly with lap dances starting at 70z and beers for
10z. Groups are obviously catered to and encouraged
(they even suggest erotic dance lessons for hen parties),
and you can print a voucher off their website for 50% off
entry and your first drink. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. PAX
Taboo Gentlemens Club C-2, ul. Floriaska 33
(entrance from ul. w. Marka), tel. (+48) 12 426
26 06, www.tabooclub.pl. There was a time when
Krakows gentlemens clubs were relegated to the outer
limits and the grey areas of its urban grid (you know,
Dietla Street, around the train station). Whether you view
this as a good or bad thing, Taboo has been allowed to
set a new precedent by becoming the most centrally
located strip club in the Old Town. Find leather couches to
lounge on alongside ladies in lingerie, sculptures of naked
women holding up glass tabletops to set your drink on
and six curtained VIP rooms for privacy. Gone, it would
seem, are the days when the kebab stand was the sauciest stop on a Floriaska pub crawl and honestly, could
it really be Poland without Pole dancing? Also now at ul.
Szewska 21 (B-3). QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
73
74
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
bar with limited seating, but further investigation reveals a
large year-round heated garden (shared with Trattoria Pistola)
connected to a downstairs club space open on weekends and
during events. Patronised by young alternative types gathered
around great beer while discovering Jimmy Cliff and growing
out their dreadlocks, the decor pays homage to its namesake
by cleverly photo-shopping the famous Russian assault rifle
into the sepia inter-war pinups on the walls, with a few stray
Soviet radios and gas-masked mannequins laying around. The
vibe is good and the Polish micro-brews are great, making this
a nice escape from the mania out on the street. QOpen 12:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PAGBW
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish
district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area that
passes for furniture, add a shelf of liquers and presto! - open
a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the spirit of
the neighbourhood. The district quickly became synonymous
with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might
be able to commune with a lost, forgotten world beneath the
haze. As the areas clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of
Schindlers List, brought more and more tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it
quickly develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today
the area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants,
even ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a
trace of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Krakw for a night out.
Kazimierzs history makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it
is the districts nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much
of the mystique it still carries today.
Bars
krakow.inyourpocket.com
KAZIMIERZNIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
windows (not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great
place for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once
about: taking things as they come. Recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AUGBW
Kazimierz Clubs
Kitsch D-4, ul. Dajwr 16, tel. (+48) 518 87 90 55,
www.kitsch.pl. Since the collapsing stairwell incident
(shhhh...), Krakws legendary and flamboyant Kitsch
dance club has opened two new locations - one smack
on the market square, and this sloppy disco discreetly
hidden in Kazimierz next to the Galicia Jewish Museum.
While the market square spot is a proven and predictable
money-making tourist magnet meat market, it seems the
real fun/trouble has moved into this divey downstairs
club full of graffiti scrawl and accessed through a trashy
courtyard. When the seasonal garden is open, this large
location is quite a hip hangout, however Kitsch itself commands little more than a crude concrete cellar. Still, the
spirit of Krakws most liberal and least bashful club is
now here, along with its legions of loyal fans letting loose
of their inhibitions as dance-floor brain damage ensues
into the early morning. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 06:00. PUBXW
75
76
HISTORY
Krakw Historical Timeline
966:
990:
1000:
1038:
1241:
1257:
1320:
1335:
1364:
1386:
1596:
1655:
1683:
1734:
1791:
1794:
1796:
1918:
1939:
1941:
1942:
1943:
1945:
1947:
1978:
1981:
1983:
1989:
1999:
2000:
2002:
2004:
2005:
2007:
2010:
2012:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
HISTORY
The Hejna
One of the most fascinating traditions for
tourists and Craco vians is the hejna (pronounced hey-now) a
short, melodious bugle
call played every hour
from th e east, west,
north and south sides
of St. Mary Basilicas
left tower (C-3).
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to their
deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on January
18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2011 the city was visited by 8.6 million tourists.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
77
78
SIGHTSEEING
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
What To See
Tourist Information
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. Also at
ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:30 20:00). QOpen 07:45 - 20:00. Y
Krakw History Museum Visitor Services Centre C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60,
www.mhk.pl. Tourist info, ticket sales and gift shop for
all 15 branches of the Krakw History Museum. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
OLD TOWN
ible altarpiece and stained glass. Its from atop the taller of
the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated
tune every hour on the hour - dont miss it. On the other side
of the square youll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing
platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar
in the former basement prison.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
79
80
OLD TOWN
Sowacki Theatre
Sowacki Theatre
(Teatr im. Juliusza
S owackiego)
D -2, Pl. w. Ducha
1 , t e l . (+ 4 8 ) 1 2
4 2 4 4 5 25 , w w w.
slowacki.krakow.pl.
Regarded today as an
architectural masterpiece, th e S owacki
Theatre came under
fierce criticism when construction began due to the
demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost
to make room for it - an act that drew the ire of local
cultural bigwigs like Jan Matejko. Completed in 1893,
Jan Zawiejski modeled his design for the theatre on the
Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its
elaborate facade which is decorated with allegorical
figures. Sadly, the interior is usually off limits to the
public unless there is a production on; a pleading
look is usually enough to get past this obstacle. The
foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of
fin-de-siecle thinking, and the stage curtain is itself
worth the James Bond deviousness needed to sneak
in. Designed by Henryk Siemiradzki it features beautiful paintings representing drama, comedy, music and
dance. Polands first cinema show was held here in
1896. Q Open depending on repertoire. Guided tours
can be arranged by phone for 130z (up to 40 people),
but are only available in Polish at this time.
Barbican
Barbican D-2, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12 619
23 20, www.mhk.pl. The
sh owpi e ce o f th e ci t ys
m e di eval d e fen ces, th e
Barbican was built at the
end of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main entrance and was connected
to the Floriaska Gate via
a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. 24.4
metres in diameter with walls 3 metres thick this
masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved
impenetrable and today stands as one of the only
surviving structures of its kind in Europe; certainly the
most well-preserved. Built in Gothic style, the Krakw
Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130
defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today
the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited
as an outdoor museum between the months of
April and October, where youll learn the history of
Krakws defensive walls. As the bastion is almost
always empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game
of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby, however
beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting meant
to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee youll
see at least three. Q Open from April 5 10:30 - 18:00.
Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Ticket is valid for 7 days
and includes admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls.
Churches
Theres hardly a resident of
Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While
the number of churches, cathedrals and monasteries in
the city is almost endless,
weve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable
of the bunch here. All of these
places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active
to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to
visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
OLD TOWN
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika
Mariacka) C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5,
tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.
mariacki.com. Tartar invasions
of the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins and construction began on St. Marys using
the existing foundations. It doesnt
matter how many times you see
it, the altarpiece, stained glass
windows of the nave, and the blue,
starred ceiling will take your breath away. The magnificent
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work of
the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz),
and depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among the apostles.
Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko,
Mehoffer and Wyspiaski. Several local legends are attached
to St. Marys. The architect of the smaller tower murdered his
brother (the architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his
structure was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt
he then committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof
of the cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one
of Krakws most enduring traditions. The bugle call played
on the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins from an
event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the
horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the
habitants of Krakw. He was shot with an arrow in his neck,
abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was
roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this
event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune
every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the
whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen
11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z.
Guided Tours
AB City Tour ul. Kociuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12 427
27 57, www.abcitytour.pl. Their large fleet of electronic
golf-carts (heated in winter!) zips tired-footed tourists around
all the sights in town, while informational audio recordings
explain Krakws history in English, Polish, Spanish, German,
French, Italian, Norwegian, Hungarian, Japanese, Dutch, Russian, Ukrainian and Portuguese. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y
krakow.inyourpocket.com
81
82
OLD TOWN
Main Market Square
Main Market Square
(Rynek) C-3. Krakws main
market square (Rynek) serves
as the citys gravitational centre,
and is the natural start and finish point for any tour of the city.
Originally designed in 1257 - the
year Krakw was awarded its
charter - the gridlike layout of the
Old Town and its central square
has changed little in the years that have followed. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the
largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded
by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names,
histories and curiosities. Through the centuries it was in
Krakws Rynek that homage to the king was sworn and
public executions held. Most famously it was here that
Tadeusz Kociuszko roused the locals to revolt against
foreign rule in 1794. The Rynek has always been the
natural stage for public celebrations, with everything from
parades of sausage dogs to Christmas crib competitions
taking place. Not all the events have had been happy
affairs however, and back in the 17th century King Jan
Sobieski III was privy to a firework display which ended
in bloodshed when some of the explosives were accidentally fired into the crowd. Some mistake. More recently
the market square was subjected to a Nazi rally under
German occupation which was attended by Der Fhrer
himself and celebrated the squares name change from
Rynek Gwny to Adolf Hitler Platz. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long and today the Rynek occupies itself by
hosting the yearly Christmas and Easter markets, as well
as numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage in the Rynek is the Cloth Hall
(Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was
effectively the first shopping mall in the world. To this
day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling
amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. In 2010
a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing its history, and that
of the entire city, opened underneath the Cloth Hall, called
Rynek Underground (see our box). The second floor
hosts the underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Polands most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasnt stopped the statue from becoming one of
Krakws best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Marys Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Marys,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. Open from April to November only, visitors can ascend up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted
rooms which contain, amongst other things, 1960s
photographs of Krakw and look out on the square below
from the viewing point.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Gwny. One of the
most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of
the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz
(1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate
the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so many
other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country!
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just
down the road at Wawel.
Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Gwny.
Among Krakws most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as
a photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who
visits the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head,
the bronze body parts official title is Eros Bendato
(Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj.
A student of Tadeusz Kantors at the Krakw School of
Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitorajs monumental works
dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003 to Jan 25, 2004,
during which the artist gifted this work to the city, sparking
controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture
was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from historians and many locals, the sculpture eventually found
its current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has
become an unexpected tourist attraction. In summer,
children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edifice,
sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for
camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds
it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of
Mitorajs work will find another of his large sculptures titled Luci di Nara - adorning the charming courtyard of
Collegium Luridicum (C-4, ul. Grodzka 53).
Grunwald Monument
(Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1,
Pl. Matejki. The Battle of
Grunwald, fought between
the joint armies of Poland
and Lithuania against the
Teutonic Knights on July 15,
1410, is considered to be
fot. Iwona Grabska one of the greatest battles
ever to take place in medieval
Europe. A defining moment in Polish history, the battle was
immortalised in Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty
monument in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the
500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis
(1877-1919) original masterpiece was, not surprisingly,
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy
that now stands in its place dates from 1976, having been
faithfully reproduced using sketches and models of the original. At the top on his horse is the King of Poland Wadysaw
Jagieo, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand.
At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas
(Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers
from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von
Jungingen, the Teutonic Orders Grand Master, who lost his
life during the battle.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
84
OLD TOWN
Museums
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne) B-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00,
www.ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recent boost of cash,
Krakws one-time lacklustre Archaeology Museum has been
transformed into something actually worth going to have a
look at. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol (see our box),
regional Stone Age artefacts and a brilliant room dedicated
to local clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the
museum houses a permanent collection of artefacts from
ancient Egypt including some beautiful shrouds, a number
of intricately decorated sarcophagi and some mummified
cats. The latter exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an
audio guide, available for an extra charge. QOpen 09:00 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 7/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Audioguide 5z. Y
krakow.inyourpocket.com
OLD TOWN
Da Pietro
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Museum) B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13
07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Jagiellonian University is the
third oldest university in Europe, founded by King Kazimierz
the Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as one of
the most beautiful in the city. An amiable English-speaking
guide will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, Assembly Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you
will see the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas.
It was in 1492 that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began
his studies at the Jagiellonian, developing his own theories
about which way the world spins. You need to call or visit in
advance to book a place on the English-language tour, which
takes place Monday through Friday at 13:00. More basic
English-language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific
instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes throughout the day, though were informed its wise to arrange these
beforehand as well.
Recently a new interactive exhibit about mathematics titled
Everything...is a number (Wszystko...jest liczb) has
opened, but a separate ticket and separate hours apply:
09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 7/5z. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit, 16/12z for entire
museum (including gallery and scientific instruments) or tour.
Admission free on Tuesdays between 15:00 and 18:00 for
a self-guided tour.
85
86
OLD TOWN
Rynek Underground
Stanisaw Kosin
Stanisaw Kosin
Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego) H-1, ul. Jzefitw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.mhf.krakow.
pl. Allegedly Polands only museum dedicated exclusively to
photography, this modest museum tracks the development
of the art form over several cupboard-size rooms, including
changing photographic exhibitions, an old darkroom, heaps
of ancient cameras and a nice collection of historical images
of Krakw. Theres plenty here to fascinate shutterbugs, but
if your primary camera is your cellphone, you may not deem
it worth the journey. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups (3 person minimum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z, Sun free. Y
H o m e A r my M u s e u m
(Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12,
tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70,
www.muzeum-ak.krakow.
pl. This beautifully restored
3-floor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a
gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Polands
underground military resistance from the time of the failed
September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed
forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continuing fight for freedom within the countrys two occupied zones
(Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War IIs less acknowledged
aspects and this fantastic museum goes to great length to
demonstrate that Polands government, military and civilian
population never surrendered in the fight for freedom. After
a decade of collecting historical documents, artefacts and
information from Home Army veterans, this museum opened
to the public in September 2012 and is a must-visit for anyone interested in WWII history. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 13/7z. Sun permanent exhibit free. Y
krakow.inyourpocket.com
OLD TOWN
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul.
Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical
painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where
he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As
well as some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval life, studies for gargoyles and collections of Renaissance furniture
and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejkos life
is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this recently
renovated museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts. Those with a special
interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and manor
house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums), and the 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his greatest works
are displayed. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z, audioguide 5z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
krakow.inyourpocket.com
87
88
OLD TOWN
The Wawel Chakra
One of Wawels most well-known, but officially unendorsed
legends is that of the fabled chakra stone. A chakra, fyi, is
a natural energy point or centre of consciousness found in
every living being, as believed in the religious, spiritual and
yogic traditions of India, China, and independent groups in
the West. According to chakra doctrine, there are seven
chakra points on the body corresponding with the seven
sacred stones the Hindu deity Shiva flung across the earth
as a gift to mankind. Those seven stones just so happened
to land in some of the most important spiritual centres
on earth, namely Rome, Mecca, Delhi, Delphi, Jerusalem,
Velehrad (CZ, must have been bad aim) and what do you
know? the northwestern corner of Wawels immaculate
courtyard. At least thats where believers claim to have
felt its cosmic energy the strongest. Most believers simply
place their hands against the supposed energy source,
though some have gone so far as to stand on their heads
with back, palms and heels pressed against it leaving oily
smudges on the wall that reveal its location to the uninitiated (when you enter the courtyard, turn left and make
for the corner). Doing such today wont earn you much
sympathy from the Castle staff who consider the legend
a nuisance and have done everything they can to deflect
attention away from Wawels famous corner, including
putting up a sign asking people to refrain from touching it
(that obviously didnt work), roping it off, putting museum
exhibits over top of it and having a guard stand nearby as
was the case during our last visit. Wawel tour guides are
stricken from speaking about the chakra stone, as youll
quickly learn if you broach the topic with one. Still dont let
that stop you from getting your chakra on.
Out of Centre
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa
Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel.
(+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl.
Until recently this magnificent museum was little more
than a place of marginal interest to flight enthusiasts,
most of them from Poland. A 46 million zoty investment
has changed all that though. The aforementioned fortune
has been spent on a brand new, propeller-shaped building on four floors, bursting with hi-tech goodies including a
cinema and an interactive space for children alongside a
library, museum shop and a collection of planes including
a marvellous Blriot XI dating from 1909 and a Polishbuilt RWD from the 1930s. Considering some 80% of the
financing came from the EU its a little bit disappointing
to see that most of the displays are in Polish only, but
dont let that put you off too much. The rest of the museum remains intact, including hangars and buildings
containing some remarkable machines, plus uniforms,
photographs and even a complete Spitfire with Polish
markings. The outdoor section (the museum is located
on an old airfield) is littered with aircraft including several
Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw
Pact. All in all, the entire ensemble provides exactly the
kind of entertainment and education a museum should
provide, and can take up most of a day to explore thoroughly. Northeast of the Old Town on the way to Nowa
Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, or 10 -or- bus numbers
124 or 424, getting off at the Wieczysta stop. A taxi if
called in advance should cost around 25z each way.
Highly recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Y
WAWEL
Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Todays
Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.
The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true
architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful status
as a truly world-class city.
Castle
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Wawels prominence as a centre of political power
predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in
1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as
a fortified castle before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa
962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences.
The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the
teenage Wadysaw the Short (1306-1333) on January
20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further
35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All
of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of
them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle
fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used
it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish
several buildings including a number of churches on the
site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on
a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation
works that continue to this day being halted for a number
of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used
as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans
krakow.inyourpocket.com
89
90
WAWEL
Lady With an Ermine
L ady With An Ermine
(Da ma z a sicz k).
Krakws prized art piece is this
Leonardo Da Vinci oil painting one of only three in the world,
and a sentimental favourite of
Poles, reproduced and hung
in many a home. Leonardos
Lady has a chequered history;
when she isnt entertaining she
always seems to be on the run
or in hiding somewhere. For
centuries she was off the map completely, before having
a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought
her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the
family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Krakws Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Krakw where she is
today one of the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel for the
next two years until its proper home in the Czartoryski
Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its
own alongside in depth information about its complicated
history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires
a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be
missed. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/8z.
Cathedral Tickets
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information B-5,
Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedrawawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle have different
ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased
only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral
entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself
is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers
these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides
for the Cathedral and Cathedral Museum can be rented
from the ticket office for 7/5z in Polish, English, German,
Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech or French. QOpen 09:00
- 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral
Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z.
Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your
ticket is valid to visit another day.
Krakw In Your Pocket
Cathedral
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. The scene
of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen
throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third
to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood,
probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of
the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it
was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently
burnt down again. The current building was consecrated
in 1364 and built on the orders of Polands first king to be
crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka. Wadysaw
the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among
the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered
the most important single building in Poland, Wawels
extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original,
although many glorious additions have been made over the
centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin
St. Marys on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral
more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to
the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre
is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Krakw, St.
Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral
is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as
ostentatious as youre ever likely to see, of particular
interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross,
found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble
sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a
cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place
krakow.inyourpocket.com
WAWEL
of kings and statesmen - most recently fromer president
Lech Kaczyski - while at the top of a gruelling wooden
series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne Sigismund Bell
- so loud it can supposedly be heard 50km away.QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
91
92
KAZIMIERZ
Kazimierz is the district that housed Krakws Jews for over
500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered, and
its expunged Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous
for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, theres
more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and
synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and
spanners, youll find the heart of Krakows artsy character.
Peeling faades and wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes,
many effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative,
edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point of
interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz
the Great. Unlike Krakw, which was largely populated by
Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not
until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Krakw that they
started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg
Rights, which allowed markets to be held in what is now Pl.
Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being
one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle
ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and
numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimierz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit
by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined
by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish
riots followed in quick succession, and it wasnt long till a
mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimierz a broken shell.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four
years later Kazimierz was incorporated into Krakw. It
was to signal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians
ordered Krakws Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and
the area was slowly redeveloped; timber houses were
banned, streets were cobbled and walls that once ringed
Plac Wolnica
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the squares
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs incorporation into
Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neoRenaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierzs revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons
and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change
however, with more cafs and restaurants opening
around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz with Podgrze over the river to the south.
Krakw In Your Pocket
What To See
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at the top
of ulica Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). Here
youll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long
Ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts
the doorways come adorned with traders names splashed
on them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. Its not hard to feel the
ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles.
Next door stock up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the
areas first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka
6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building
formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that
gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed
and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of
restaurants to pick from, though you cant do much better
than visiting Rubinstein at number 12. Its named so for a
reason. Queen of Cosmetics Helena Rubinstein was born
next door at number 14.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
KAZIMIERZ
OLD
TOWN
Take time out to explore the citys two most important
synagogues - the Old Synagogue and Remuh Synagogue
- before veering to the right and onto ulica Jzefa. The
street actually takes its name not after Joseph of Bible
fame, but the Habsburg Emperor Joseph II who stayed on
this street while touring his nearly conquered territories.
Find the High Synagogue at number 38, so called because
the prayer room was located on the first floor. Looted during WWII the synagogue housed the Historic Monuments
Preservation Studio in the post-war years, only returning
to its intended function in the 1990s. Today it houses the
Austeria bookshop (see Shopping) and a small exhibition
space with rotating historical exhibits about the history of
Polands Jewish population. Make a right on ul. Estery to
visit Plac Nowy, or continue past the numerous cafes,
art galleries and antique shops to ul. Jzefa 12 (D-6) to
find what many regard to be Krakws most picturesque
courtyard. Accessed via an archway, the cobbled courtyard
is instantly recognisable from Spielbergs Schindlers List,
particularly from the other side on ul. Meiselsa, where youll
find the excellent Mleczarnia cafe/beer garden and the
Judaica Foundation at no. 17. When facing the courtyard
and beer garden, Plac Nowy - the heart of the district - is
again directly to your left.
While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit the
Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6) and Isaac
Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored interiors
now house a permanent exhibition titled In memory of Polish Jews. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee
was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire
to it. The synagogue is also the source of an enchanting legend. It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but
impoverished Jew who once had a dream telling him if he
went to Prague he would discover great treasures buried
by a bridge. Following his instincts he set off to Prague,
only to find the bridge he had dreamt of surrounded by a
garrison of soldiers. Having spotted him loitering, one of
the soldiers challenged Isaac as to his intentions. Isaac
came clean, only for the soldier to scoff words to the
effect of Youre an idiot! Ive been having dreams all my
life about a Krakw Jew called Isaac who has treasure
hidden under his stove. But Im not stupid enough to go
to Krakw, especially seeing that every second Jew is
called Isaac. You can guess the rest. The moment Isaac
returned home he pulled the stove down and discovered a
wealth of riches, making him the richest man in Kazimierz.
But Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish. Take for example
the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Boego Ciaa
(D-6/7). Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates
the horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of
intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors.
Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners
who had broken the sixth commandment would be held and
subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th century
painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus. Used in exorcisms for the last five centuries the canvas is reputed to
have warded off a hundred thousand demons. Sticking to the
ecclesiastical theme stop by Skaka (C-7). Its right by the altar that Stanisaw, the Bishop of Szczepanw was murdered
and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesaw the Bold.
Stanisaw was later beatified, becoming the patron saint of
Poland, and it became a tradition for Polish Kings to make the
pilgrimage from Wawel to this church in a bid to compensate
for the sins of Bolesaw. A stone allegedly splattered with
the blood of the saint can be viewed close by. Ghouls will
also to be delighted to learn of the crypt, one of the most
high profile in Krakw. Its here youll find the mortal remains
of local heroes Czesaw Miosz and Stanisaw Wyspiaski.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Plac Nowy
Plac Nowy D-6. While
Krakws main square,
Rynek Gwny, makes all
the postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy
in Ka zi mi erz th at has
emerged as th e spiritual centre o f Krakw
sub - cul ture. Lacking
www.placnowy.pl the splendour of the Old
Town, Plac Nowy is, i f
anything, something of an eyesore - a collection of
unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square
filled with chipped green market stalls and rat-like
pigeons flapping about. I f you want something
completely different from the Old Town, however,
here it is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the
late 17th century, and its Jewish connections are
highlighted by an oft-encountered local insistence
on referring to it as Plac ydowski (Jewish Square).
For over 200 years it has served as a market place
with its central landmark, the Okrglak (rotunda) ,
being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased to the
Jewish community in 1927 serving as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation.
Following the war it resumed its role as the centre
of the market around it, a function it still carries
today. Butcher shops still occupy the interior, but
the real action is to be found outside where hungry
locals are happy to line-up outside the dozen or so
hole-in-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from
the rotunda, eager to taste the best zapiekanka
in Poland. Placing their orders through the small
windows youll find ever yone from police blokes
ignoring emergency calls on their walkie-talkies,
to stick-thin party girls getting their weeks worth
of calories with this legendar y Cracovian street
food. Visiting Krakw without eating a Plac Nowy
zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without
having a Guinness.
Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310
trading stalls, and youll find something going on
daily from 5:30am till early afternoon. Fresh produce,
sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees
but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale
Saturdays, Sundays clothing market, and Tuesday
and Friday mornings bewildering small critter expo/
pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive
early to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle,
How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a
new guise: Krakws premier pub crawl circuit. Find
the academics with beads, beards and secondhand
books in places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Couleurs, while the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the citys best
beer garden during the warm months. Full of shambolic charm, Plac Nowy is beginning to diversify to a
degree with glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale
and Baroque, and Taawa - the first danceclub to
open on Plac Nowy.
93
94
KAZIMIERZ
Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa)
D/E-6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net.
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes
up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the
citys largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style,
the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast
even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there
are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning
glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece (removed
for renovation unfortunately). According to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The
priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from
the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a
church here in recognition of the miracle. Q Open 08:30
- 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Not visiting
during mass please.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
KAZIMIERZ
4`_eV^a`cRcj:dcRV]Z4fZdZ_V
@_]jZ_<RkZ^ZVck
9f^^fd9RaaZ_Vdd:dRV]ZCVde`SRc
wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strikingly beautiful of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches yet retaining a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least
the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary
runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide
information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food,
wine and sweets, Jewish calendars and other items. Q Open
08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4z.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
hhhYR^dRa]
hhhWRTVS``\T`^ YR^dRcVde`SRc
!!%)&"&"&!"%&
Useful Contacts
City Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Information on what to see and whats going on in Kazimierz.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to AuschwitzBirkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
J ew i s h C o m m u n i t y C e n t r e (C e n t r u m
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6,
ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.
jcckrakow.org. The headquarters of Krakws surviving and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organises numerous events (check website for calendar) and
exhibits, arranges tours, and is home to a large library
of Jewish related materials. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
95
96
PODGRZE
Krakus Mound
Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryewskiego. The oldest structure in Krakw, Krakus
Mound is one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn summit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried beneath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mounds
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Kraks mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
citys first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric earthwork - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas
Mound; conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The
legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern creation of
burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski and today
they remain one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries.
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone
cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest, smallest and most mysterious churches in the clearing next to
the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present structure has
been hard to determine, but the curious site certainly dates
back to the 11th century and a leading theory attributes it
to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction
and dereliction by a local priest the tiny, cramped interior consisting of only a small nave and chancel with a painting
of St. Benedict over the pulpit - has been restored, but can
only be accessed twice a year: on St. Benedicts Name Day
krakow.inyourpocket.com
PODGRZE
OLD
TOWN
BAL CAFE
ul. lusarska 9
at the back of MOCAK
entrance from the Przemysowa street
www.facebook.com/balnazablociu
breakfast
lunch
cake
wine
coffee
Museums
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum
Sztuki Wspczesnej w Krakowie) K-4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Opened on
May 20th 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art
(MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews from all
who have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindlers Factory,
the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling
and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and
fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both
Polish and international artists, plus the Mieczysaw Porbski
Library and its collection of works on art theory and history.
Several provocative temporary exhibitions are ever-changing:
check their website for details. Despite the relatively late
closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave yourself plenty of
time to enjoy all the museum has to offer. QOpen 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Places of Interest
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving
fortress of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th
century to protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww,
Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion
Tower type left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick
artillery tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area of
1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota
Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts church.
The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the 1890s and
has since been used as Austrian military barracks and
was even converted into apartments in the 1950s, though
today it lies in general dereliction, filled with abandonned
furniture and building materials. After numerous projects
involving the fort failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has
recently been transferred back to the city of Krakw, with
plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the
scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most surprising
and strange corners.
Old Podgrze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Podgrski) K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and ul. Powstancw Wielopolskich. Podgrzes primary necropolis
for over a hundred years, the Old Podgrze Cemetery is/was
the resting place of the formerly independent citys most
97
98
PODGRZE
Plac Bohaterw Getta
krakow.inyourpocket.com
JEWISH GHETTO
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre of
Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an important
cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews - one quarter
of the citys total population - who enjoyed the citys relatively
tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish community began
almost immediately following German occupation in early
September 1939, however. Despite an increasing series of
regulations restricting the civil rights and personal freedom
of Jews, more and more were arriving in Krakw from the rest
of PL in the hope of finding safety amidst the citys dense
community. In October 1939, the Nazis registered 68,482
Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result
of resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population
was reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain
the economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
Establishment
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Deportations
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move to
the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what else
to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to their
families in the Krakw Ghetto.
99
100
JEWISH GHETTO
Liban Quarry
Allie_Caulfield
Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Krakw, the Liban Quarry
should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for
the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here
during Krakws WWII occupation. That said, the sight lies
in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming a nature
sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and
other various creatures (weve even seen an unattended
horse grazing here) as the city seems to have forgotten it
completely. Incredible limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fenceposts, gravestones and tangles of
barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis, run by
two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgrze,
established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th
century a complex of buildings was established within
the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed
an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However,
during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel
penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner
from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small,
discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for
21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp
lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. Not wanting to use the
nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must
have taken little imagination on his part to settle upon
Liban. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were
set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was
subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly
mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war,
making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel
as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fenceposts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones, which we can put you at ease
by assuring you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, Liban allows you to explore Krakws World War II history on your own terms,
interpreting it as you like without the hand-holding of
history books or tourist bureaus. Enter the quarry at your
own risk by following a trail from Kraks Mound toward
Podgrze cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry,
or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees
of the Housing Office buildings at the quarrys entrance
have been known to aggravatedly deny entry or ask
people to leave.
Liquidation
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the Krakw
Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000 Jews (some
sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were immediately
transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto B and all children
under 14 were ordered to assemble on Plac Zgody the next
day. Despite likely knowing what lay in store, many mothers
stayed behind when Ghetto A was liquidated, refusing to
abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of
it - was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape were
shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets (some
estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving almost
as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
PASZW
101
History
Getting There
Due to its size and the fact that there is no prescribed
route, there are several ways to get to the territory of
the former Paszw camp. If you have a car you can drive
around to the southern side of the camp and park on the
side of the road across from Castorama on ul. Henryka
Kamienskiego within view of the Memorial of Torn-Out
Hearts. It is also possible to park on the eastern side by
driving up ul. Wielicka, turning right onto ul. Jerozolimska
(K-5) and parking near the Grey House.
Without a car, the most straight-forward approach is
to take tram numbers 3, 6, 9, 13, 23, 24, 50 or 69 and
get off at the Cmentarz Podgrski stop. Walk a couple
blocks down ul. Wielicka in the same direction the tram
was travelling and make a right onto ul. Jerozolimska
(K-5). This will take you to the Grey House on the east
side of the camp (10mins total).
krakow.inyourpocket.com
102
PASZW
anything more than a speculative guess. Liquidation of the
camp began in early January 1945, with the last prisoners
leaving on death marches to Auschwitz; those who reached
it were killed in the gas chambers immediately upon arrival.
As the Soviet Army approached Krakw the camp was
completely dismantled (including the Jewish pre-burial hall),
the primary mass graves were exhumed, the bodies burned
and the ashes spread over the site. What the Soviets saw
upon arrival largely resembles what visitors will see when
visiting the former grounds of the camp today - a barren field.
Approximately 2,000 Poles and Jews who passed through
Paszw are known to have survived the war; 1,000 of these
were the Schindler Jews who escaped from Krakw to
Brunnlitz before the wars end.
The Grey House
What To See
Today almost nothing remains of the complex and sprawling concentration camp, which covered over 80 hectares in
Paszw - today a district of Podgrze. In comparison to other
Nazi prison camps, Paszw was extremely well dismantled
and has since been the subject of almost no historical excavations or on-site documentation. Those private homes
which were commandeered by the Nazis and incorporated
into the camp were returned to their owners after the war
and today sit on the fringes of the former camp as inauspiciously as any other house in the area. On one part of the
former camp grounds an apartment block has been built.
As a result it is very difficult to imagine what the camp may
have looked like during the war. Visitors are left to their own
imaginations and private thoughts while walking through the
grounds, keeping their eyes peeled for traces of the past
and the few monuments scattered about. Though difficult
to find (without our help), several points of interest do exist,
and we encourage visitors to make the walk from the north
side of the camp to the large, easily visible monument to its
victims on the southern side, taking in as many of these sites
as possible en route. As you do, of course, bear in mind that
though the area looks like nothing more than a neglected
public park, this is actually a sacred place of remembrance.
In addition to whatever remains exist from the two Jewish
cemeteries once located on this site, it is estimated that the
remains of 8,000-10,000 Paszw prisoners are still located
within the immediate area of the camp grounds. As a few
obscure signs (the only evidence of city acknowledgement of
the camp, aside from a few monuments) near the edges of
the former camp clearly state: Please respect the grievous
history of this site.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
PASZW
103
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Hujowa Grka
104
SALWATOR
What to See
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
theres the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the
tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies
St. Bronisawas Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises
above the Old Town between the Wisa River and the Rudawa
- one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts
at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4) - Krakws largest sacral complex. Consecrated way
back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters
of this immaculate convent were the first female religious
congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influence over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Krakws
mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city
proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of
Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the
Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kociuszko and, in
addition to the convents Church of St. Augustine and John
the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawas Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. w. Bronisawy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the
Maopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is
the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. w. Bronisawy (as it turns into Al. Waszyngtona) about 500 metres on the left and youll arrive at the
Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Krakws most picturesque
necropolis. However, as youre en route, dont miss taking
a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small
looping alley off the main lane. Though the name Salwator
has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding
district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally
referred strictly to this small Garden City of 30 villas built
to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One
of Krakws most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna
has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and
its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The
highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the
right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa
on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same
that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great
number of statues and stone effigies.
Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where it
bears right and youre at the foot of the Kociuszko Mound
and fortifications (F-3), one of Krakws most unique attractions. While youre at the top, take a turn away from the
Old Town for a moment and youll see the rolling expanse of
Getting There
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a
twenty-five minute walk from the main market square
and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or
6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3).
Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow
the recreational path along the Wisa River from Wawel
Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the
Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint
Bronisawas Hill to Kociuszko Mound is a slight grade
1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for
anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive
to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot
or by bike is certainly the recommended method for
those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SALWATOR
OLD
TOWN
John Paul II erected in 2008. The baroque 17th century altar
within the charming chapel was borrowed from the Church of
the Holy Saviour just across the street (G-3). Q Open during
mass only from April 7 to October when services are held on
the first and third Sundays of those months.
Norbertine Legends
As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are
a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Monastery (G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88). The first is to do with
Saint Bronisawa herself, who after being visited by the
Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack
(which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord
tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow),
managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent
hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of
course destroyed and Saint Bronisawa spent the rest
of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a
God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every
damn weekend. She died in 1259.
Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell
and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between
attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck
the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the
Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they
would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the
Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to
witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to
the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on
their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were
skewered or drowned in the Wisa River, except for one
who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people,
the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower
of the Sisters ravaged monastery. After several failed
attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life
ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface.
Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell
interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those
it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel
tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the
river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St.
Johns Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can
be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight
when the clock on the Market Square sounds.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
105
106
NOWA HUTA
What To See
Getting There
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dwrzec Gwny (the train station
stop), or tram 22 from Starowilna both go straight to
Plac Centralny in about 20mins.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
NOWA
HUTA
OLD TOWN
Churches
Church of St. Bartholomew R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11, www.mogila.cystersi.pl. Founded by Krakw
bish op I wo Odrow wh o
brought the Cistercians to
Mogia from Silesia in 1222,
the present structure of this
outstanding wooden church
Jakub Haun, Wikipedia,CC dates from 1466. As the Church
BY-SA 3.0 of St. Wenceslas across the
street was part of a monastic complex, St. Batholomews was
erected to accommodate the Catholic layman, one of whom master carpenter Maciej Mczka - put his name and completion
date on the door after building this enduring wooden treasure.
Exceptional for its three aisles - a rarity in wooden church
architecture - the 18th century belfry and beautiful domed
entrance gate have also been preserved. Getting inside can
sometimes be a challenge, but its still at least worth taking a
look at the exterior architecture. Mogia is easily accessed from
Plac Centralny via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna
stop and its a short walk south. Q In April the interior can be
viewed on Sundays between services (vaguely 10:00-12:30),
and from May regular guided tours will be available, but no
further information was known at press time.
107
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Matejki) S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74.
Located in Krzesawice - a charming village hidden just
one street behind Nowa Hutas artificial lake, here youll
find the small manor house with a wood shingle roof once
used as a workshop by Polands greatest 19th century
painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this
is where the artist went to escape the crude haste of life
in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an eminent
Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Polands
constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension
which would house his workshop. Inside guests will see
Matejkos famous Gallery of Polish Kings as well as
many illustrations, everyday items and period furniture.
Next door is the wooden Church of St. John the Baptist
- also worth seeing. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Mon, Sun. Visits for groups of over
10 available by prior arrangement. Call (+48) 12 656 50
51. Admission 7/4z.
108
NOWA HUTA
Memories of Lenin
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what
is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Krakw. He
made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks
were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was
unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure was moved to the Lenin
Museum soon after, and thereafter mysteriously disappeared.
In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al.
R, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenins
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta. In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesnt end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Hutas former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac
Centralny i Aleja R) O-4. The centre of Nowa Hutas
architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the districts primary
landmark and one of social realisms highest architectural
achievements in PL, despite never being completed. The
two main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and
a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk
in between; though the designs were in place, none saw
development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them Roses Avenue (Aleja R, O-3) - was never fully realised, and
terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example
of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, youll find several curiosities worth peeping into.
Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00.
Closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this
amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original
50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and
a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates.
The character of this place hasnt changed a bit and as such
its a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesawiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the street
to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been preserved
in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a true taste of the
district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it. Nowa Huta
is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but weve never seen
anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif
interior of this bar mleczny. If you think that cant be topped,
take a trip to the other end of the block to see the hideously
Tours
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising
in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Sendzimir Steelworks. Experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one
of the worlds only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q Communism
Tour 129z per person.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
WIELICZKA
109
Getting There
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out
of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits)
leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes.
Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 5.30z,
or take bus 304 from the Dworzec Gwny Zachd
stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or
one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses leaving from the
parking area near there at the corner of ul. Ogrodowa
and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3.50z, journey time 20-30mins.
History
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding area
apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone,
but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted
hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements.
Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was
krakow.inyourpocket.com
110
WIELICZKA
What to See
Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A visit to the
salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy your ticket
from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display
for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your
ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist
Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Underground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit.
In between theres an opportunity to take a break, use the
restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if thats
your preference). However, be aware that the tour does
not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it
does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you
to and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz
Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miners lingo effectively means God be with you and
substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs
(dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the first level 64m
underground. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first
three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5kms covered during
the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of
this underground realm. While wandering the timber-re-enforced
tunnels youll gain insight from your guide into the history of
the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives
of the men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive blocks
of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour
visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost
everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled
floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang
down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m
St. Kingas Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its
amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament done by miners that display
an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing
a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall
high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at the
underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you
should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A)
or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option
B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide
that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask
them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the
restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the queue
for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you
back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the
right for those that want to continue on to the Underground
Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your original guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which
comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed
full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your
guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and
informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of
these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th
century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of
sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you
back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back
to where you started. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30. Admission
73/58z. Taking photos is an additional 10z. In addition to
the popular Tourist Route described above, several other
routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route,
Underground Health Resort (Uzdrowisko Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka) Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 68, www.uzdrowisko.kopalnia.pl.
With the market value of table salt no longer being what it
was in medieval times, today the salt mine is most valuable
for its health benefits (and tourist dollars, of course). Given
its perfect isolation from external factors, the specific microclimate of the subterranean saline chambers is completely
bacteria- and allergen-free and rich in healthy microelements
such as sodium chloride, magnesium and chloride. Such an
environment is brilliant for anyone suffering from asthma,
bronchitis, lung inflammation, allergies or recurrent nose, sinus or throat conditions. As such, the salt mine also operates
as a health resort offering a variety of single and multiple day
health treatments in the Jezioro Wessel (Wessel Lake) and
Stajnia Gr Wschodnich (Stable of East Mining Hills) saline
chambers located 135m underground. Here individuals and
groups can participate in a number of organised breathing
exercises and walks, as well as music therapy (reservations
required). The health resort also offers innovative methods
for the treatment of serious respiratory ailments and a broad
range of modern medical services with professional medical
staff and equipment. More info can be found on their website.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Prices vary by season, treatment and length of stay.
Check the website for specific quotes.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
112
AUSCHWITZ
Getting There
krakow.inyourpocket.com
KRAKW
ZAKOPANE
NOWA HUTA
TYNIEC
AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU
WARSAW
THERMAL POOLS
AIRPORT TRANSFERS
+48 12 346 38 99
www.discovercracow.eu
114
AUSCHWITZ
A Brief History
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are conducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau
II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to
catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for
the day (though there is some limited food available at the
museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting
1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or
you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away.
At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available),
a fast food bar and restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a
guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up the official
guidebook (5z), whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid
missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any
of the numerous bookshops at both sites. Q Both camps
are open 08:00 - 17:00. From May open 08:00 - 18:00.
An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour
of both camps costs 40/30z. Tours for groups up to 10
people, 250z. For larger groups 300z.
The film costs 4/3z (included in the price of a group
tour). Headphones cost 5z per person (included in the
price of a group tour). Official guidebook 5z..
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim, tel.
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
AUSCHWITZ
115
Jewish Centre
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei
Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum ydowskie)
Pl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
70 02, www.ajcf.org. This centre located 3km from
the Auschwitz museum maintains the towns restored
synagogue, shows a film with testimonies of Holocaust
survivors and offers a specially tailored programme for
those who call ahead. It also features a permanent exhibition on Jewish life in the town of Owicim before World
War II. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6z.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
116
TARNW
History in Brief
Getting There
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well
as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnw is easily reached by
road. A good network of train and bus services running in
and out of the city centre also link Tarnw with many major
destinations throughout Poland. The nearest airport is
Krakw Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with
the first leaving as early as 06:30 and the last bus back to
Krakw departing at 21:45 (note that on Thurs and Sun
there is one more bus to Krakw at 22:05). PKS schedules
arent famous for their long-term consistency however, so
you may want to check ahead. Minibuses also make the trip,
departing from across from the bus station, so dont overlook
that option if you need it.
118
TARNW
Rynek & The Old Town
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 30 or so trains every day
from Krakw, with a journey time of between 90 and
120 minutes depending on whether you take a local or
express train.
By Car
Tarnw is close to a number of major road routes in all directions
and is worth considering as a place to stop off for a few hours
or even for the night if youre on a long journey. Only 80km from
Krakw, thanks to the new (free!) A4 highway connecting the
two cities, its an easy, hassle-free drive to Tarnw that should
take less than an hour. Near the centre the most convenient
place to park is ul. Bernardyska (E-4), just southeast of the
market square; from Pl. Sobieskiego turn onto ul. Targowa (D-4)
and then make your next left on Bernardyska (D-5). Parking
must be paid Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-13:00 (Sun free),
with some complicated math dictating the price depending how
long you will be there (for example: 1z/30mins, 2.50z/1hr,
5.10z/2hrs, 8z/3hrs, after which its an additional 2.50z for
every hour over 3, or 17z for the whole day). Buy a ticket from
the kiosk, cross off the proper time and from there the market
square and tourist info office are just one block to your north.
Hotels
Bristol C-4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47
74 77, www.hotelbristol.com.pl. Enjoy a sumptuous
atmosphere of slightly flamboyant grandeur inside
Tarnws most exclusive hotel. Bristols immaculate
rooms come with minibars, cable television, spacious
beds and a choice of en suite facilities with either a
shower or bath. Extras include plenty of elegant chandeliers, Doric columns that dont actually support anything,
a solarium, gym and an outrageously pink honeymoon
apar tment featuring a large Jacuzzi. Q17 rooms (4
singles, 5 doubles, 2 triples, 4 suites, 2 apartments).
PTHA6FGKW hhhh
TARNW
Soprano C-5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621
09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when wed given
up on having a nice meal out in Tarnw, Soprano saves our
appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional
Italian cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor
garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch
the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this one of your meals
out when in town. The soups are delicious and come with
fresh olive bread, while our lamb shank with red currant sauce
(42z) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money you
can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still a heck of a
bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (18-42z). PTAUGBSW
Leprikon Irish Pub D-4, ul. Rynek 16, tel. (+48) 696
18 75 22. Fetching a great location on the market square,
this Irish pub is a welcome addition to Tarnw - a city suffering
from a severe lack of decent watering holes. Leprikon looks
the part with lots of lucky green and dark wood fittings, 2 TVs
beaming live sports, Guinness on draught (14z) and even a
full Irish breakfast on offer (13z). In addition to the breakfast
menu, this is one of a scant number of places on the market
square that will feed you a proper meal, from Shepherds Pie
(15z) to local specialties, burgers and other pub grub. Though
hardly original or wholly authentic, Leprikons effort is still one
most will appreciate, and symbolises a recent shift for the city
from one that people are queuing to leave, to one that foreign
punters now consider invading on holiday. Congrats, Tarnw.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. AGBW
Churches
Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58 85,
www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the 14th
century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th
centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin
Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick
buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century
portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the
Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary
paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of
reference when getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the
southern side of the building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun
06:00 - 20:30. No visiting during mass please.
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. One of
the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first
port of call on arrival. Here youll find a wide range of
free information on Tarnw and the surrounding region,
free internet (browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle
rental and theres even accommodation available
upstairs. If youre interested in a gadget-led tour, there
are nine different mp3 audio tours of the main sights for
hire, in addition to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour.
The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic Englishspeaking staff, can give you a better idea of what that
is, plus whatever information or advice you cant find in
this guide, so dont be shy. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From May open 08:00 - 20:00; Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
119
Museums
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul II,
the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside
the soul of man, and Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum,
established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just
that. An astonishing collection of religious art from the
15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful
ensemble of 16th-century houses, the museums most precious artefact is the original alter from St. Leonards church
in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation
reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include
some truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience. Q Open
10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum
(Muzeum Etnograficzne)
C -5, ul. Krakowska 10,
tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25,
www.muzeum.tarnow.pl.
As well as highlighting local
ethnographic traditions, this
better than average collection
includes a large celebration of
Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is
allegedly the only such collection in Europe. A truly fascinating, if slightly dated, exhibition tracing Roma culture in
Poland from its beginnings in
the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and
beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition include
some excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs,
all of which are best seen with the aid of a small and very
good booklet, The Gypsies, written by the museums curator Adam Bartosz and available in English for just 3z. There
are still about 350 Roma living in Tarnw, and their culture
is still very much alive. In the museums back garden youll
find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans. Q Open
09:00 - 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z. Sun free.
120
TYSKIE
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Krakw by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
LEISURE
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared
more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful
day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the
fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun
is out and features several unique green spaces, particularly
the Planty and Bonia (see Outdoor Attractions), the latter of
which is home to an ice rink in winter. Other highlights include
Las Wolski (Wolski Forest), which is home to Kociuszko
and Pisudski Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides
plenty of hiking opportunities. Cracovians also love getting
out of town, whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec and
Ojcw (both of which you can expect to be packed on sunny
weekends), or mountains excursions to the Beskidy and Tatra ranges to the south. Zakopane is an especially popular
destination for skiing in winter and hiking in the summer. Use
the listings below to keep active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Krakowski Park Linowy ul. Widakowa (Pychowice), tel.
(+48) 514 25 66 47, www.krakowskiparklinowy.pl. Give
yourself a new high navigating the maze of rope bridges, nets
and ziplines of this exciting ropes park just off the Wisa bike trail
midway between Wawel and Tyniec Abbey (just beyond F-5 on the
IYP map). 200 metres in total, with a height ranging from 5-9m,
the course is of varying difficulty but a thrilling and safe challenge
for everyone thanks to helmets and harnesses. Walking the entire
course takes between 45 minutes and an hour. They also offer
a shorter and easier route for children over 1.4m in height. For
more info visit their website which has an English option. Q Open
from May 15:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 30z for adults.
25z for children under 16. 50z for personal accompaniment by
an instructor. 15z for the childrens route.
121
Zakrzwek
Zakrzwek G-5. This fantastic reservoir just beyond
the city centre was serendipitously created when the
limestone quarry operating here accidentally pierced
the water table. Though officially prohibited and the site
of frequent accidents, the irresistible blue, seemingly
bottomless water is immensely popular with locals for
swimming and cliff diving in summer. If you want to get
in on the action we recommend you do so through the
scuba diving school that operates here; the depth varies
from 7-21m (23-69ft) and the bottom is cluttered with all
kinds of things that shouldnt be there: several vehicles
and sunken boats, as well as the former changing rooms
of the quarry workers. The surrounding limestone bluffs
and woods are an additional attraction - a favoured place
for summer barbecues, ideal for hiking and a favourite
for local rock-climbers, whose anchors you may notice
sticking out of the cliff faces. The area is also the fabled
former stomping ground of Krakws legendary alchemist
and occultist Pan Twardowski, who purportedly had his
workshop in one of the caves. Nearby, intrepid adventurers will also discover access to large, abandoned and
very creepy Austrian bunkers carved in the cliffs. A great
place to go exploring, the nearest bus stops are GrotaRoweckiego and Kapelanka; the nearest tram stop is
the Kapelanka stop near Tesco.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
122
LEISURE
Bonia Meadow
Bonia Meadow G-3. A massive and inexplicably
undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old
Town, the Bonia is a huge, triangular open space measuring nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although
lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the
Polish name Bonie denotes a meadow - something of
an amiable linguistic redressing of the Bonias true and
unchanged historical function: its a cow pasture. The
areas ability to survive to modern times as the largest
city centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a
perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long
ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative
wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into
the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel
was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently
ban unfashionable bovines from the Bonia, only to find
themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally
binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which
they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not
being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic
partner in those times, city council decided to stick with
the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to
air old Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a great
idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called Bovines
on the Bonia, tell the mayor to get in touch with my
agent for more details), these days youll find the green
triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space
of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners,
while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running
and roller-blading. Protected as a National Heritage Site
since 2000, the Bonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor
events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most
notably - historic open air masses by the Pope during
his visits to Krakw.
Golf
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Pacztowice
328, tel. (+48) 12 258 60 00, www.krakow-valley.
com. With a club house, driving, chipping and putting ranges,
this magnificent 160ha 18 hole golf course 25km west of
Krakw, is one of the largest and best in Central Europe.
Reserve a tee-time on weekends when the fairway is busy.
To reach them youll either need a car or take a train from
Krakw to Krzeszowice (journey takes about 40 minutes)
and then a private bus to Pacztowice (7 minutes). Q Open
from 09:00 till dusk.
Royal Krakw Golf & Country Club Ochmanw
1 24, Pod e, tel. (+48) 1 2 281 91 70, w w w.
krakowgolf.pl. A nine hole golf course located close
to the Royal Jagiellonian Hunting Grounds (Puszcza
Niepoomicka) 18km east of Krakw. A clubhouse and
restaurant overlook the double green 9/18 and the course
is popular with both beginners and experienced golfers.
Includes indoor driving ranges, and an indoor simulator
open when the outdoor course is closed for the season.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Krakw Beach (Plaa Krakw) I-4, ul. Ludwinowska 2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.
com.pl. Featuring 10,000 metres of sand spread out
across a stretch of the riverbank on the Dbniki side between Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) and the building formerly
known as the Forum Hotel (I-4), Krakow Plaa (beach) has
become party central when the sun is out. Terrific views
of Wawel Castle form the backdrop to a multi-faceted
venue which offers said beach where you can play beach
football and volleyball, a 25 by 8 metre swimming pool
hollowed into the hull of a boat docked just offshore and
a large childrens playground. Throughout the day pick
up a cocktail or iced coffee from the attached open-air
cafe-bar or a meal at the surprisingly good restaurant,
Plaa Krakw (see Restaurants). After the sun goes down,
Plaa Krakw turns into more of a club, with Wednesday
salsa parties a particular standout. The easiest way to
get there is gather eight people together and take the free
ferry from the foot of Wawel. Lifes a beach. Q Open from
April 20. Swimming pool 20z/per hour. Volleyball courts
should be booked in advance between 10:00 and 20:00,
after which they are free.
Kryspinw Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 53, www.
kryspinow.com.pl. Krakws favourite summer sun
destination is this artificial beach at Kryspinw Lagoon.
As such it can be incredibly crowded on sunny weekends.
12 km away and well-connected to Krakw, Kryspinw
features lifeguarded swimming areas, water sports rental
equipment, windsur fing and wakeboarding instruction
(available in English), water slides, playgrounds, a ropes
course, beach volleyball and a few eating options. The
Hawana Bar also makes it a popular party destination,
organising numerous events throughout the season.
To get there take buses 209 or 269 from the Salwator
tram roundabout to the Kryspinw Zalew stop. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. Passes 12/6z, family tickets 20z. Car
parking 10z.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
LEISURE
S t a n i s aw L e m S c i e n c e G a r d e n (O g r d
Dowiadcze) Al. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
346 12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. A fun, interactive educational park for kids named after late, local sci-fi
author Stanisaw Lem. The 7 hectare park features different
stations engaging kids in optical illusions and the laws of
physics. Explanations are in English and Polish, and guides
(English) are available for an additional 15z if you call three
days in advance. Get there from the centre via trams 1, 14 or
22 getting off at the M-1/Al. Pokoju stop. Q Open from April
13 08:30 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 8/5,50z, children under
7 free. Family ticket 22z. Combined ticket for the Science
Garden and the City Engineering Museum 11/8z.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
123
124
SHOPPING
Gift Shopping At a Glance
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul. Floriaska
13 and 22 (C-3), ul. Powile 7 (A-5, Sheraton Krakw), and
ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00
- 20:00.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Shopping Malls
FACTORY Outlet ul. Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka,
tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.factory.pl. 15 minutes
from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign
and domestic brands including Levis, Reserved, Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Solar, Simple and
many more. You can get there by catching a free bus
from Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) or Rondo Matecznego (I-5).
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
125
126
SHOPPING
the prices are the best youll find anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly needs
and deserves support. Still if youre on a budget you can
trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards
a new one. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
SHOPPING
127
yulrn~uryhr~
thputhyrl{zx|hylryhrv~
z
128
SHOPPING
Gifts & Souvenirs
Markets
Krakws open-air markets are the best places to
get cheap local produce and the only places in the
centre where you can buy vegetables that arent
white. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked
goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and
youve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as
well. In addition to the legendary Cloth Hall on the
market square (C-3, open 10:00-19:00), practice
your Prosz and point skills at the unique shopping
environments listed below.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Plac
Targowys Sunday flea market, its uselessly rude at any
of the daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a
100 zoty note will also be met with utter disdain.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
DIRECTORY
24hr Pharmacies
Apteka Dbam o Zdrowie I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel.
(+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.
Dentists
Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13, tel. (+48) 12
259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs for
emergencies.
Emergency Room
5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocawska
1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, www.5wszk.com.pl.
Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 21, tel.
(+48) 12 424 82 77, www.su.krakow.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urzd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1,
ul. Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 19, www.bip.
krakow.pl.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
129
Real Estate
Hamilton May A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
426 51 26, www.hamiltonmay.pl.
Komercel A-1, ul. Karmelicka 48/3a, tel. (+48) 501
48 94 93, www.komercel.pl.
Mamdom, www.mamdom.com.
Ob er - Haus Real E state Advisor s C -2 , ul.
Sawkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12 428 17 00, www.oberhaus.pl.
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
Currency Exchange
Changing money in Krakw is increasingly less fretful to
do, but it is still worth checking and comparing exchange
rates, particularly at entry points such as airports and
in major tourist areas. Here we check the rates of a
selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Below were their buying rates (how many
zoty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
19.03.13 compared to the following rates published by
the National Bank of Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro
1 = 4.1095z, US $1 = 3.1729z, GBP 1 = 4.7985z.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport, International Departures), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 58, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.52z,
1 Dollar = 2.69z, 1 Pound = 4.06z. No commission.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1
(Airport, International Arrivals), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 57, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.50z,
1 Dollar = 2.67z, 1 Pound = 4.09z. No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.11z, 1 Dollar = 3.17z, 1 Pound
= 4.77z. No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.11z, 1 Dollar =
3.16z, 1 Pound = 4.80z. No commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.12z, 1 Dollar =
3.17z, 1 Pound = 4.79z. No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.11z, 1 Dollar = 3.17z, 1 Pound = 4.80z. No
commission.
Ci voglio ritornare!
massi1960 by
Recomendation
Agrafka
BLU
Plac
targowy
Etap
Hilton Garden
view point
Galaxy
MOCAK
Schindlers
Factory
erska
Wgi
Fort Benedict
Liban
Quarry
Kopiec
Krakusa
Jerozolimska
a
dk tka
Karna
Be
Jzefi
ska
STREET REGISTER
29 Listopada, Al.
J-1
3 Maja, Al.
G/H-2/3
Akacjowa
L-1
Akademicka
H-2
Aliny
L-1
Altanowa
G-1
Ariaska
J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al.
F/G-1
Asnyka
B-1/2
Augustiaska
D-6-7
Bajeczna
L-3
Bauckiego
A-6
Bandtkiego
F-1
Bandurskiego
K-1/2
Barska
A/B-6/7
Bartosza
E-6
Basztowa
C/D-2
Batorego
I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza
E-5
Bernardyska
B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga
H-4
Biernackiego
H-1
Biskupia
B-1
Blachnickiego, ks.
J-3
Blich
J-3
Bobrowskiego
K-3
Boczna
H-4
Bohomolca
L-1
Bocheska
J-4
Bonerowska
E-4
Bonifraterska
D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego
F-2
Bosacka
E-1/2
Boego Ciaa
D-6/7
Boznaskiej
K-1
Bracka
C-3/4
Brzownicza
F-2
Brodowicza
K-1/2
Bronowicka
F/G-1
Brzozowa
D-5
Buhaka
A-7
Buszka
F/G-2
Bydgoska
G-1/2
Bytomska
H-1
Ceglarska
H-5
Celna
J-4
Chmielowskiego
I/J-4
Chocimska
H-1/2
Chodkiewicza
J-3
Chodowieckiego
G-2
Chopina
H-2
Ciemna
E-6
Cieszyska
I-1
Cicha
F-1
wiklowa
F-5
Cybulskiego
A-3
Cystersw
L-2/3
Czapskich
A-3
Czarnieckiego
J-4
Czarnowiejska
H-2
Czarodziejska
G/H-4
Czysta
A-2
Czywka
J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen.
K-4
Dbska
L-2
Dajwr
E-6
Daszyskiego
J-3/4
Dbnicka
H-4
Dbowa
A-7
Dekerta
K-4
Dembowskiego
J/K-5
Dietla
C/E-4/6
Duga
C-1
Dugosza
J-5
Dobrego Pasterza
K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw
A-2
Dominikaska
C-4
Droga do Zamku
B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego
B/C-2
Dworska
H-4
Dzielskiego
K/L-1
Estery
D-6
Fabryczna
L-2/3
Faata
H-3
Feldmana
A-1
Felicjanek
A-4
Fenna Sereno
I-2
Filarecka
H-3
Flisacka
H-3/4
Floriaska
C/D-2/3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kwartowa
L-1
Lanckoroska
K-5
Lea
F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza
H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa
F-3
Lewkowa
E-6
Limanowskiego
J/K-4
Lipowa
K-4
Litewska
H-1
Loretaska
A-2/3
Lubelska
I-1
Lubicz
D/E-2
Lublaska
K-1
Lubomirskiego
J/K-2
Ludowa
K-5
Ludwinowska
I-4/5
Lwowska
J-K/4
obzowska
B-1/2
Madaliskiego
A-6
Maa
A-4
Malczewskiego
F/G-3-4
May Rynek
C-3
Masarska
K-3
Matejki, Pl.
I/J-2
Mazowiecka
H/I-1
Meiselsa
D-6
Metalowcw
E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al.
H-2
Michaowskiego
A-1/2
Michaowskiego
H/I-2
Mikoajska
C/D-3
Miodowa
D/E-5/6
Mitery
I-5
Mlaskotw
H-3
Myska
K-1
Mogilska
K/L-1/2
Moniuszki
K-2
Monte Cassino
A-7
Montelupich
I-1
Mosinicza
K-2
Mostowa
D/E-7
Na Grdku
D-3
Na Przejciu
E-6
Na Szaniec
L-3
Na Ustroniu
I-4
Na Zjedzie
J-4
Nadwislanska
J-4
Nawojki
G-2
Obona
H-1
Odlewnicza
F-1/2
Odrowa
I-1
Ofiar Dbia
L-3
Ogrodowa
D-1
Oleandry
H-2/3
Olszaska
K-1
Orawska
I-5
Orzeszkowej
C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza
F-3
Paderewskiego
C/D-1
Paproci
L-4
Parkowa
J-5
Patynw
G-4
Pauliska
C-6/7
Pawia
D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks.
H-4/5
Pdzichw
I-1/2
Piastowska
F/G-1/3
Piekarska
C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego
G-4/5
Pijarw
K/L-1
Pijarska
C/D-2
Pisudskiego
A/B-3/4
Piwna
J-4
Pl. Baw
E-6
Pl. Bernardyski
C-5
Pl. Biskupi
B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta
J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego
A-3
Pl. Inwalidw
H-2
Pl. Kossaka
A-5
Pl. Mariacki
C-3
Pl. Matejki
D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach
B-4/5
Pl. Nowy
D-6
Pl. Sowiaski
C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego
J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski
B-2
Pl. w. Ducha
D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica
D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska
L-4
Pod Kopcem
F-3
Swoszowicka
J-5
Symfoniczna
H-2
Syrokomli
H-3
Szablowskiego
F-1
Szafera
K-2/3
Szczepaska
B/C-2/3
Szenwalda
L-1/2
Szeroka
E-6
Szewska
B-2/3
Szklarska
L-4
Szlachtowskiego
G-1
Szlak
I/J-1
Szpitalna
C/D-2/3
Szwedzka
H-4
Szymanowskiego
H-2
lska
I-1
liska
I-5
lusarska
K-4
niadeckiego
J-3/4
w. Agnieszki
C-6
w. Anny
B-3
w. Bronisawy
G-3
w. Filipa
C/D-1
w. Gertrudy
C/D-4/5
w. Idziego
C-5
w. Jacka
H-5
w. Jana
C-2/3
w. Katarzyny
D-6/7
w. Krzya
D-3
w. azarza
J-3
w. Marka
C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana
C/E-5
w. Stanisawa
C-7
w. Teresy
I-1
w. Tomasza
B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca
D/E-6/7
witokrzyska
I-1
Tenczyska
B-4
Tkacka
H-2
Topolowa
J-2
Toruska
G-2
Traugutta
K-4
Trynitarska
D/E-7
Twardowskiego
H-5
Tyniecka
F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza
H-1/2
Wadowicka
I-5
Waowa
K-4
Wandy
K-3
Warmijska
G-1
Warszauera
D/E-6
Warszawska
D-1
Wasilewskiego
A-7
Wska
E-6
Waszyngtona
G-3
Wglowa
D-7
Wenecja
A-3
Westerplatte
D-2/3
Widok
L-3
Wielopole
J-3
Wierzbowa
I-4
Wietora
I-4
Wiolarska
G-4
Wilna
B-3
Wadysawa okietka
I-1
Wociaska
F-1
Wodna
L-5
Wodocigowa
F-4
Wjtowska
H-1
Wolnica, Pl.
J-4
Worcela
D-2
Wrblewskiego
I-1/2
Wrocawska
H/I-1
Wrzesiska
E-4
Wyczkowskiego
G/H-3
Wygoda
A-4
Wyspiaskiego
H-1
Zacisze
D-1/2
Zaktek
H-1
Zamenhofa
D/E-2
Zamkowa
A-6
Zarzecze
F-1
Zatorska
I-4/5
Zauek
K-4
Zegadowicza
A-4
Zieliskiego, gen.
G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka
A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa
L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza
D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta
J-2
elazna
J-1
kiewskiego
K-3
135
136
LISTINGS INDEX
HOTELS
Amadeus
25
Amber
26
andel's Hotel Cracow
26
Apartment Cracow
31
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 31
Ascot Hotel
28
B&B La Fontaine
31
Best Western Krakw Old
Town
26
Campanile
28
Classic
29
Copernicus
24
Eden
29
Flamingo Hostel
31
Fortuna Bis
29
Francuski
26
Galaxy
26
Grand
24
Greg & Tom
31
Grdek
24
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw 27
Holiday Inn Krakow City
Center
24
Hotel Stary
24
Hotel Unicus
27
Chopin Cracow
28
Ibis Budget Krakw
Bronowice
30
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare
Miasto
30
Ibis Krakw Centrum
29
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto 29
Karmel
29
Matejko
27
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 24
Novotel Krakw Centrum 27
RESTAURANTS
Al Dente
Alebriche
Amadeus
Amarone
Andromeda
Aperitif
Aperitif
Aqua e Vino
Ariel
Augusta
Bagelmama
Balaton
Bar Italiano
Bar Smak
Bar Targowy
Barka Food, Life, Music
Baroque
42
49
36
42
36
37
38
42
48
59
32
35
44
50
60
59
37
Obrocw Krzya
N-1
Orkana
P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp.
M-4
Przyjani, al.
N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego
R/T-4/5
R, al.
O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego
P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al.
O/T-1/3
Stalowa
O-1
Struga
P-2
Tomickiego, bp.
M-3/4
Ujastek
T-1
Ujastek Mogilski
T-2/4
Wakowicza
S-1
Wwozowa
S-1
Winiowy Sad
M-2
Wojciechowskiego
P-1
Zachemskiego
P-4/5
Zuchw
P-3/4
eromskiego
O/P-1/2
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G No smoking
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
E Live music
W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly
S Take away
I Fireplace
Koji
47
Kuchnia i Wino
38
Kura
47
La Campana Trattoria
44
La Fontaine
34
Le Scandale
46
Love Krove
42
Mamma Mia
45
Manzana
46
Manzana
49
Marcello
45
Marmolada
52
Met Cafe & Brasserie
46
Milano Ristorante
45
Milkbar Tomasza
52
Mid i Wino
38
Mid i Wino
53
Mid Malina
53
Moaburger
42
Moment Resto
46
Momo
61
Moo Moo Steak & Burger
Club
42
Morskie Oko
53
Musso Sushi
48
Pieroki u Vincenta
53
Pimiento
49
Pod Anioami
53
Pod Baranem
56
Pod R
38
Pod Temid
60
Pod Wawelem
56
Polakowski
56
Portofino
49
Ratuszowa
38
Raw Organic
61
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim
38
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim
56
Restauracja Unicus
38
krakow.inyourpocket.com
138
LISTINGS INDEX
Resto Illuminati
40
Samui
60
Scandale Royal
40
Smak Ukraiski
60
SomePlace Else
32
Spdzielnia Organic Resto &
Take-away
61
Stara Zajezdnia
57
Starka
57
Studio Qulinarne
40
Szara
40
Szara Kazimierz
40
The Mexican
50
The Olive
41
Tradycyja
41
Trattoria Pistola
45
Trufla
41
Trzy Papryczki
45
Trzy Rybki
41
U Babci Maliny
57
U Ziyada
41
Vanilla Sky
42
Warsztat
49
Wentzl Magda Gessler
57
Wesele
58
Wierzynek
58
Winiowy Sad
58
Yellow Dog
34
ZaKadka - Food & Wine 35
Zazie Bistro
35
Zbjcy w Paacu
58
Zoty Piec
58
CAFS
Bal
62
Cafe Sza
62
Camelot
62
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 62
Karma Coffee Roasters 62
Kolanko N6
64
Mamy Cafe
64
Noworolski
64
Royal Art Cafe
64
Sodki Wawel
64
Tektura
64
NIGHTLIFE
Alchemia
Ambasada ledzia
Antycafe
Artefakt Cafe
Baccarat
BaniaLuka
Baroque
Baroque
base music club
Beer Gallery - Luxury
Bomba
74
68
65
74
70
68
65
70
70
65
65
Features Index
Adult Entertainment
Barbican
Beer Gardens
Bonia Meadow
Breakfast
Burgers
Cloth Hall
Cracovian Cooking A-O
Cracovian Cooking P-Z
Currency Exchange
Dining At A Glance
Facts & Figures
Gift Shopping At a Glance
Guided Tours
Have Your Say
Krakw Historical Timeline
Krakus Mound
Lady With an Ermine
Language Smarts
Las Wolski
Late Night Eats
Liban Quary
Live Music
Lodgings at a Glance
Lunch
Main Market Square
Market Values
May Days
Memories of Lenin
Milk Bars
Nightlife At A Glance
Out of Centre
Plac Nowy
Plac Wolnica
Polish Desserts
Polish Friends of Beer Party
Polish Vodka
Public Transport
Riverboat Dining
Rynek Underground
Sowacki Theatre
Station History
The Floriaska Gate
The Hejna
The Wawel Chakra
Zakski Przekski
Zakrzwek
73
80
65
122
46
42
84
54
55
129
32
16
124
81
61
76
96
90
17
8
70
100
72
24
38
82
17
58
108
60
65
88
93
92
63
40
66
13
59
86
80
11
87
77
88
68
121
krakow.inyourpocket.com