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msnm
6565
Tupungato
INTRODUCCIN
El Tupungato se alza como la montaa ms alta de Los Andes Centrales, superando en mucho a sus ms cercanos
vecinos. Se emplaza a 64 kilmetros al Este de Santiago, en el lmite con Argentina, pero no es visible desde la ciudad.
Es ampliamente deseada por muchos montaistas, y est catalogada como una montaa clsica de Los Andes chilenos,
pese a ser paradjicamente ms visitada por extranjeros que por montaistas nacionales.
Este gigante es un estrato volcn extinto cuyo crter de tres kilmetros de dimetro es fcilmente visible desde muy
lejos. Su cspide, as como su ladera que cae hacia Argentina, luce extensos glaciares que la cubren parcialmente.
Si bien no encierra misterios incas, el Tupungato tiene otras historias que contar. Conocida es la de un avin de pasajeros
de una empresa britnica que cay en sus faldas en 1947. Slo 44 aos despus, en 1991, un par de montaistas
encontr casualmente un motor, lo que provoc que se organizara una expedicin de bsqueda que finalmente dio
con el resto de la aeronave y sus ocupantes.
Tupungato is the highest mountain in the Central Andes, much higher than its closest neighbours. It is situated 64 km to the east of
Santiago, on the border with Argentina, although it is not visible from the city.
It is popular among mountaineers and it has become known as a classic mountain of the Chilean Andes, despite paradoxically being
visited by more foreigners than Chilean climbers.
It is an extinct strata volcano whose crater, three km in diameter, is easily visible from far away. It has extensive glaciers that partially
cover the top of the mountain and the slope on its Argentine side.
Although Tupungato holds no Incan mysteries, it has other tales to tell. A well-known story is that a British companys passenger plane
crashed in its foothills in 1947. It was only after 44 years, in 1991, that two mountaineers accidentally found its engine. This provoked
an expedition to finally find the rest of the plane and its occupants.
242 243
Los 6000s de Chile / The 6,000s of Chile
Volcn
Tupungato
Acceso
INFORME
altitud
6565 m
Posicin Geogrfica segn Carta:
Carta IGM:
33 21 12,8 S
69 46 15,7 W
E61
REPORT
Geographic Position
According to Map:
IGM Map:
First Recreational Ascent:
Best Time of Year for Ascent:
33 21 12.8 S
69 46 15.7 W
E61
M. Zurbriggen and S. Vines, 1897
From September to March
Access
From the city of Santiago head towards the Cajn del Maipo on
Ruta G-25 until crossing the bridge over the Colorado River, where
you have to take the turning that leads to the Alfalfal hydro-electric
plant, owned by the AES Gener company. The road to the mountain
continues through the grounds of the hydro-electric plant. You
therefore require a permit that must be organised in advance, as
explained in the recommendations. After passing the plants entrance
barrier, follow the road for 25 km until you come to a fork whose
left hand option leads to the La Perla mine. You should take the
right hand option and after a short drive you come to a turning
signed for Estero Chacayes which you need to take. The road passes
through a settlement and then turns and heads into the valley. Just
before the road descends to a water inlet it is possible to see a wellmarked path that begins on the right side of the road. Here you can
leave your vehicle.
The approach continues on this path that follows the south bank
of the Colorado River. After two hours of walking, the Museo Valley
opens up on your right and, after a small descent, you arrive at the
area of Baos Azules, where there are pools, very close to the Museo
River, caused by springs of mineralized water. Here it is possible to
set up ApC 1 (2,450 m).
Start early from ApC1, crossing the river using the large rocks as a
natural bridge. The route continues on the left bank of the Museo
River, rising until the ridge of a small hill known as Pan de Azcar.
After the ridge the route descends to the edge of the Azufre River.
It is also necessary to cross this river, for which you can use a bridge
which, while being in quite a bad state, has served for other
expeditions. However, it is still recommended to check its state
carefully before using it.
After crossing the river, the route will ascend several metres and
climb a wall of black volcanic rock that leads to a vast gully. From
here you can see a spectacular display of summits. Among them
are Chimbote, Pollera, Tupungatito, Sierra Bella and the west face
of the Tupungato Volcano.
Following the path, you arrive at the Baos del Tupungato, a natural
pool of dubious-looking thermal water. Here you turn right and
continue, ascending in some stretches, until arriving at a sector
known as Mal Paso due to the numerous streams that you have
to cross. ApC2 (3,230 m) is set up in the place known as Vega de
los Flojos, at the foot of the Sierra Bella moraine. To get here it is
necessary to climb up quite loose scree slopes. While it is a quite
wet area, the only reliable sources of water are the streams and
springs found at the highest point of the marshland.
From ApC2, the path disappears amongst stones and you re-take
it on the south slope at the start of the moraine of the Sierra Bella
Glacier. At this point the river is just a stream and you should cross
it every once in a while. After a few hours walking, the path leaves
the valley, turns south and follows a nameless stream through the
foothills of the Tupungato Volcano. The route arrives at the Los
Espaoles camp-site (4,420 m) where you can set up ApC3. However,
if you have time, it is recommended to continue until the area known
as EL Hito, where you can establish the AdvancedBC (4,790 m).
Here there is abundant water and you can see the ascent route,
which acts as a great motivation. Generally the muleteers can
advance only until this point.
244 245
Route of Ascent/Descent
From Advanced BC, the ascent starts on the left side of a field of
penitentes. On arriving at a plateau, it is necessary to turn left to
take a ridge. This leads to an area known as Piedra del Guanaco
(5,530 m) that has some terraces with rocks of curious shapes. Here
you can set up C1.
If you still have time and energy after the long days journey, it is
recommended to continue on the ridge until an area of wide terraces
known as Argentinos (5,760 m) where you can set up the HC. Here
you have a good view of what will be the final route of the ascent.
From the HC, start to climb on the ridge to the right of the snow
field until you almost start walking on the snow field. From here,
go to the couloir that is on the left side of a very tall square rock.
Continue the ascent on the thin, loose scree slope inside this couloir.
Its gradient is an average of about 40. Once you leave the couloir
you can see false summits on both the left and right hand sides.
Continue the route towards the south-east, staying as high as
possible, until you reach a plateau from where you can see the
rounded north summit. The south summit (the main summit) can
be reached by going down and up the next hillock.
The descent can be carried out using the same route and has no
major difficulties except for the area of rocks that is between the
snow field and the couloir.
Ruta de
Ascenso/Descenso
Desde el CB Avanzado comienza el ascenso por el lado izquierdo de
un campo de penitentes. Al llegar a un plano es necesario dirigirse
hacia la izquierda para tomar un filo que lleva a unas terrazas con
piedras de curiosas formas, sector conocido como Piedra del Guanaco
(5530 m) y en donde puede establecerse el C1.
De contar con tiempo y energas suficientes tras la dura jornada, se
recomienda continuar por el filo hasta un sector de amplias terrazas
conocido como Argentinos (5760 m) donde se sugiere establecer el
CA. En este lugar ya se puede obtener una muy buena vista de lo
que ser la ruta final de ascenso.
Desde el CA, comenzar a subir por el filo que est a la derecha del
nevero hasta casi remontarlo, para luego caminar hasta los pies de
la canaleta que se encuentra al costado izquierdo de un morro o
roca cuadrada muy grande. Esta canaleta tiene una pendiente
promedio de 40, est formada por acarreo fino y resbaladizo, y es
la va por donde se contina el ascenso. Al salir de sta ya se pueden
divisar las falsas cumbres, tanto a la izquierda como a la derecha.
Continuar camino hacia el Sureste siguiendo la mayor altura, hasta
alcanzar una planicie desde donde se observa la cumbre Norte con
forma de loma, en direccin Sur. La cumbre Sur (principal) se alcanza
bajando y subiendo la siguiente loma.
El descenso se realiza por la misma ruta y no presenta mayores
dificultades, excepto en el sector de piedras que se encuentra entre
el nevero y la canaleta.
246 247
Los 6000s de Chile / The 6,000s of Chile
Waypoints Registrados
(WGS 84)
Campamento Aproximacin 1 Baos Azules
33 24 32,9 S
69 58 18,5 W
altitud 2450 m
Campamento Aproximacin 2
Vega de los Flojos
33 20 14,5 S
69 51 55,4 W
altitud 3277 m
33 18 43,9 S
69 47 28,2 W
altitud 4790 m
33 19 49,7 S
69 46 38,0 W
altitud 5527 m
33 20 19,0 S
69 46 30,4 W
altitud 5761 m
33 21 30,7 S
69 46 13,9 W
altitud 6564 m
33 24 32.9 S
69 58 18.5 W
altitude 2,450 m
33 20 14.5 S
69 51 55.4 W
altitude 3,277 m
33 18 43.9 S
69 47 28.2 W
altitude 4,790 m
33 19 49.7 S
69 46 38.0 W
altitude 5,527 m
33 20 19.0 S
69 46 30.4 W
altitude 5,761 m
33 21 30.7 S
69 46 13.9 W
altitude 6,564 m
Datos y
Recomendaciones
Para ascender el Volcn Tupungato no se requiere de permisos
especiales, pero s para ingresar a las instalaciones de la central
hidroelctrica Alfalfal y para transitar por el predio Ro Colorado
que pertenece al Ejrcito. Para esto, gestionar primero un permiso
con la Jefatura de Propiedades del Comando de Infraestructura
del Ejrcito, Departamento de Predios (Santo Domingo 3317,
Santiago, fono 2-3777214, fax 2-3777133). Enviar una copia al
seor Max Mardones de la empresa AES Gener (fono 2-6868140,
fax 2-6808131). Se recomienda hacer estas gestiones con algn
tiempo de anticipacin.
You should also inform the police in San Jos de Maipo of your
expedition, giving them a letter showing participants, nationalities,
passport or ID numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries,
dates, route and a map of the area. As the mountain is on the
border, foreigners require permission from DIFROL (www.difrol.cl).
The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.