Sewing Sewing Machine 101 Student Work Book

Hello!
Thank you for purchasing my Sewing Machine 101 class!

Im a big believer in learning the basics before starting a sewing project.
Heres whats included
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2 student workbook covers

Parts of a computerized and mechanical sewing machine
Info about sewing machine needles and thread.
A glossary of sewing terms used in this workbook
And 17 practical sewing/sewing machine exercises.
Complete workbook offered in color and grayscale.
This is intended to be a reference workbook that the students will be able to keep. I
work through the book with the students.
Depending on the class/students, this class usually takes about 6 hours to complete.
Thanks again!
Glorianne
Ready Set Sewing Class Copyright Info
This publication contains material protected under International and
Federal Copyright Laws and Treaties. Any unauthorized reprint or use
of this material is prohibited. The original purchaser is granted the
right to photocopy, use or display this material for his/her educational
use without limitation. No part of this publication may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and
retrieval system) in order to provide use to another person without
written permission from the author and publisher unless additional
licenses or group licenses have been purchased.
Glorianne Meacock
Ready Set Sewing Class
2015
www.teacherspayteachers.com/Store/Ready-Set-Sewing-Clas s
My
WORKBOOK
Workbook
Anatomy of a Sewing Machine

Computerized Sewing Machine * Bernina 215
13
15
11
8
7
14
10
16
6
18
17
19
20
23
12
5
22
27
21
4
3
24
1
26
25
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Bobbin Cover
Needle Plate
Presser Foot
Needle Clamp
Check Spring
Thread Take-Up Lever
Bobbin Pre-Tension
Thread Tension Path
Thread Guide
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Thread Tension Adjustment

Sewing machine Handle
Stitch Selection Buttons
Bobbin Winder
Supplementary Thread Guide
Spool Pin
Bobbin Winder stop
Handwheel
Stitch Width Button
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Needle Position Button

LCD Screen
Buttonhole Stitch
Needle Stop Up/Down
Stitch Length Button
Sewing Table Pin
Feed-Dog Drop
Foot Control Plug-in
Reverse Button

Mechanical Sewing Machine * Bernina 1008
8 9 10
11
12
13 14
15
7
6
16
17
18
19
20
5
4
21
22
3
2
23/27
24
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Bobbin Cover
Needle Plate
Presser Foot
Needle Clamp
Check Spring
Bobbin Pre-Tension
Thread Tension Path
Thread Guide
25
26
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.

Stitch Selection Lever
Bobbin Winder
Spool Pin
Bobbin Winder stop
Handwheel
Stitch Width Knob
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Needle Position Knob

Handwheel Clutch Release
Buttonhole Knob
Light Switch
Stitch Length Knob
Sewing Table Pin
Feed-Dog Drop
Reverse Lever
Presser Feet
A Presser foot is a removable attachment that works with the feed-dogs

to hold fabric flat as the fabric is fed through the machine and stitched.
Many different presser feet are available that aid in different techniques.
The Most common used presser feet.
Anatomy of The Presser Foot.
Needle Bar Clamp
Shank
Needle Plate
Feed-dogs
Presser Foot Toes
Presser Foot Sole
Needles and Thread
Thread and Needles are important to stitching. Many

problems and damage to fabric can be related to a bent,
damaged or incorrect size/type needle.
Needle System for Home Sewing Machines is 130/705H
Needle Point Refers to the tip of the needle and its shape.
Needle Size is determined by the how big the needle is,
the smaller the size the smaller the number.
Needle
130/705H What's the
By Point Point
Most Common
Point. Slightly
Universal Rounded.
Very Rounded
Ballpoint point
Jeans and Very Sharp
Microtex Long Point
Leather
Cutting Point
Fabric
Size Range
Available
Good for most

fabrics
60-100
Knit, Jersery or
Stretch Fabrics
70-90
Heavy Tight
Woven Fabrics Jeans, Canvas
70-110
Natural or
Synthetic Leather,
Pleather
90-100
Poor quality thread or the

wrong type of thread can cause
poor quality stitches. Thread
passes through the eye of the
needle 35 times before it forms
a single stitch.
Thread is commonly categorized by the fiber, and the weight.

Fibers include Cotton Thread, Polyester Thread and Rayon Thread.
Weights can range from 8weight very thick thread to 120weight
very fine thread. For thread, the heavier the thread the smaller
the number.
Commonly Used Thread
Traditional Uses
Polyester 50wt
Clothing construction, Home Dcor, General purpose thread.
Cotton 60wt
delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning
Cotton 30wt
applique, buttonholes, machine embroidery
Rayon 40wt
fragile thread - decorative work only
Polyester Embrodery thread 40wt
Machine Embroidery - Commercial and Home
Practice -Sewing With Control

Sew on the lines w/o thread
Go slow. Be mindful. Dont miss!
Straight Stitch Seam

1/4 Seam * 5/8 Seam * 2 Seam
Fabric
Two 5 square Medium Weight Cotton
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot and Quarter inch foot
Stitch
Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm & Stitch Width 0
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Find 5/8 engraved/marked guide
line on the needle plate
Place Fabric wrong sides together
and align them with engraved line.
Sew.
Attach the seam guide. Sew 2 on
the other side.
Find the marked seam line or
attach the quarter inch foot. Align
fabric edge on engraved line or the
edge of presser foot. Sew.
Terms to know:
Seam
Seam Guide
Needle Plate
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Review Techniques:
Finding Needle Plate Makings

Changing Stitch Width,
Changing Stitch Length,
Locating the Needle Position
Guiding the fabric
Lowering the presser foot
Notes:

My Sample
Secure Stitching
Using the Reverse Sewing lever
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
line on the needle plate.
Sew towards you 5 stitches, stop.
Push the reverse lever or button.
Hold in place as you begin to sew
backwards. Continue to beginning
stitch. Release. Sew forward.
Continue sewing to the end of the
fabric. Stop. Activate reverse. Sew 5
stitches. Stop and release. Continue
to end and stop. Practice again on
other side of fabric.
Terms to know:
Right Side of Fabric

Wrong Side of Fabric.
Backstitch
Review Techniques:
5/8 seam
Activating the reverse
button or lever
Notes:
Secure Stitching
My Sample
Turning Corners
Pivot with needle stopped down in fabric
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Place fabric WST under the presser
foot with the top edge even with
the horizontal line of the top of the
needle plate. The right side of
fabric is on the 5/8 marking.
Engage needle down function. If
not available, turn handwheel
towards you until needle is in
fabric.
Sew until the bottom edge of fabric
touches the front of the horizontal
line of the needle plate. Stop
Pivot and continue sewing. Repeat
at all corners.
Terms to know:
Needle stop Up
Needle Stop Down
WST Wrong sides together
RST Right sides together
Review Techniques:
Pivoting fabric with

needle in the down
positon. Selecting your
needle stop function or
turning the handwheel.
Notes:
Turning Corners
My Sample
Seaming on Knits
Stretch stitch seam
Fabric
Two 2x6 rectangles of knit fabric
Needle
Ballpoint 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Stitch
Stretch Stitch * Stitch Length 1.9 mm & Stitch Width 1.3mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Position fabric to sew a 5/8 seam.
Stitch seam and remove from
sewing machine.
Stretch the fabric and the seam.
Youll notice that the stitches
remain in tact and wont break.
Please Note This stitch is good for
all knit fabric and especially good
for seams that will be stretched;
necklines, cuffs and waistbands.
Terms to know:
Seam
Seam Guide
Needle Plate
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Review Techniques:

Guiding the fabric on knits
Notes:
Seaming on Knits
My Sample
Edge Stitching
Sewing over the Edge with a zig-zag
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Zig-Zag Stitch * Stitch Length 2mm Stitch width 4mm
Needle Position
Far Right (if possible)
Directions:
Select the zig zag stitch. Guide the
fabric under the inside toe of the
presser foot.
On the zig (first stroke of the stitch)
the needle should be in the fabric.
On the zag (next stroke of the
stitch) the needle should be off the
edge of the fabric.
The fabric should lie flat.
Using too long of a stitch length or
too wide a stitch length will cause
the fabric to roll.
Terms to know:
Presser foot:
Shank & toe
Review Techniques:
Adjusting stitch length

Adjusting stitch width
Adjusting needle position.
Notes:
Edge Stitching
My Sample
Overlock Stitching
Professionally Finishing raw edges
Fabric
Two 5 square cotton knit fabric
Needle
Ballpoint 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Overlock Presser foot.
Stitch
Vari-Overlock Stitch * Stitch Length 2mm & Stitch Width 5.5mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch
Guide the raw edges of the fabric
under the pin of the presser foot.
Please Note: The stitches are
formed over the pin on the inner
right of the presser foot. This
supports the stitch and prevents
the stitch from collapsing.
The end result is the seam will have
a professional enclosed stitch that
will lay flat and be somewhat
elastic.
Terms to know:
Vari-Overlock
Overlock Presser foot
Raw Edge
Review Techniques:
Using an overlock foot.

Selecting vari-overlock stitch.
Notes:
Overlock Stitching
My Sample
Topstitching
Triple Straight Stitch
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight denim
Needle
Jeans 90/14
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot or Straight Stitch Foot
Stitch
Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm and Stitch Width 0mm

Triple stitch * Stitch Length 4mm & Stitch Width 0
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
WST seam the denim with 5/8
seam.
Finger press seam open. Select the
Triple stitch. With Right-Side up,
place the edge or ditch of the seam
under the presser foot. The edge of
the presser foot will rest along the
edge of the seam.
Starting at the top of the seam,
stitch the length of the fabric.
Continue on the other side of the
seam.
Terms to know:
Finger Press
Ditch (in seams)
Edge Stitch
Review Techniques:
Selecting the triple stitch

Inserting needles.
Guiding fabric under
presser foot.
Notes:
Topstitching
My Sample
Jeans Hem
Hemming Jeans with a Triple stitch
Fabric
5 square Denim fabric.
Needle
Jeans 90/14
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Triple Stitch * Stitch Length 4mm & Stitch Width is 0
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Turn up the edge of the fabric twice
each time about 1/2 or 3/8 and
press.
Using the edge of the presser foot,
topstitch about 1/8 from the
upper edge of the hem.
Please Note: It is easier to sew
towards the gradual incline of the
seam rather than the thickest part.
When using the triple stitch you do
not need to use jeans thread or
heavy weight thread. The stitches
are secure because each stitch is
three stitches.
Terms to know:
Jeans Hem
Press Vs. Iron
Review Techniques:
Sewing over thick fabric

Sewing over an incline.
Pressing Techniques
Notes:
Jeans Hem
My Sample
Blind Hem
Handpicked hem for skirts of dress pants
Fabric
6 square heavy flannel
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Blind hem foot.
Stitch
Blind Hem Stitch * Stitch Length 2.4mm & Stitch Width 3.5mm
Needle Position
Far Right
Directions:
Turn hem 1 along one of the 6
edge and press. Turn up 1 again.
Fold the hem toward the right side
of the fabric so the fabric fold is
almost even with the top edge of
the hem.
Place fabric under foot with eh fold
to the left of the blade on the foot.
The zig-zag of the stitch should
catch the fold. Adjust the stitch
width so the needle barely bites
the fold.
Terms to know:
Blindhem stitch
Blindhem Presser Foot
Review Techniques:
Adjusting Stitch width
Pressing
Folding for blind hem.
Notes:
Blind Hem
My Sample
Button Sew-On
Sewing a button on by machine
Fabric
One 5 square Medium Weight Cotton
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Darning Foot *** Feed-Dogs Down***
Stitch
Zig-Zag stitch or button sew on stitch.

Stitch Length 0mm & Stitch Width 4mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Use glue stick to temporally hold button
in place.
*Select the button sew on stitch. Place
centered under the darning foot. Rotating
the handwheel toward you check to make
sure the needle clears both holes. Adjust
the stitch width as needed and continue
sewing.
* Select the zig-zag stitch. Center darning
foot. Adjust the zig-zag to 4mm.
Check width with handwheel. Stitch 6-8
times. Tie thread ends on wrong side of
fabric.
Terms to know:
Feed-Dogs
Darning foot
Review Techniques:
Dropping feed-dogs
Engaging feed-dogs
Adjusting stitch width.
Notes:
Button Sew-On
My Sample
Buttonhole
Regular Buttonhole and Corded Buttonhole
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight Cotton with stablizer
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester * Gimp cord for corded buttonhole
Presser Foot
Buttonhole foot
Stitch
Buttonhole stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Creating a buttonhole can vary
greatly by sewing machine.
Please consult your owners manual
on the best way to create a corded
buttonhole and regular buttonhole.
Terms to know:
Corded Buttonhole
Buttonhole
Gimp Cord
Stabilizer
Review Techniques:
Notes:
Buttonholes
Corded buttonholes with gimp cord
Buttonhole
My Sample
Exposed Zipper
Putting in an exposed Zipper
Fabric
Four 7 square Medium Weight Cotton
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Zipper foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Left or right
Directions:
Attach zipper foot. Either adjust the
needle position or adjust the
presser foot so you are able to sew
very close to the zipper teeth.
Layer fabric on one side of the
zipper raw edges and zipper tape
together. Layer top fabric and
bottom fabric RST. Pin layers
together.
Sew the length, moving zipper pull
as needed.
Repeat for other side. Topstitch on
both sides of zipper for decorative
detail and for durability.
Terms to know:
Pin baste
Review Techniques:
Adjusting needle position

Adjusting presser foot
Pin basting
topstitching
Notes:
Exposed Zipper
My Sample
Applique
Blanket Stitch Applique
Fabric

One prepared applique
Needle
Microtex 70/10
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Open toe foot
Stitch
Blanket Stitch * Stitch Length 2.6mm & Stitch Width 2.3mm
Needle Position
Center/far Right
Directions:
Fuse Shape to fabric and attach
open toe presser foot.
Select a blanket stitch. Stitch along
the outer edge of the fused shape.
The straight potion of the blanket
stitch will fall on the raw edge of
the shape. The points will be inside
the applique shape.
Please Note: Going slow and
frequently pivoting with needle
down in fabric will make applique
easier.
Terms to know:
Blanket Stitch
Satin stitch applique
Applique
Fusible Web
Review Techniques:
Pivot with needle down
Blanket stitch
Stitch control
Notes:
Applique
My Sample
Basting Stitch
For temporary hold
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Lengthen your stitch to the longest
it will go.
Loosen your upper tension to 3.
Seam at 5/8 as normal.
Please Note: Stitch will be loose
and will come apart. This is only
meant for temporary hold. Handle
with care.
Terms to know:
Thread Tension
Upper Tension
Baste
Review Techniques:
Adjusting Upper Tension

Basting a Seam
Notes:
Basting Stitch
My Sample
Gathering
Gathering over cord
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight Cotton & Gimp cord
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Zig zag stitch * Stitch Length 2.mm & Stitch Width 4mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Place cord under the presser foot
on top of the fabric.
Seam 5/8 down the length of the
fabric. Secure the cord at the ends
by tying a knot. Pull the fabric
towards an end to gather.
After gathering sew bartacks at the
beginning and end of the seam
Gathering over a cord adds strength
and give you better control of how
much it gathers.
Terms to know:
Bartacks
gathering
Review Techniques:
Bartacks
Adjusting width and length
gather
Notes:
Gathering
My Sample
Gathering - again
Gathering with basting stitch
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight Cotton
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch

Loosen upper tension to 2
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Loosen upper tension to 2.
Sew 5/8 seam.
Being very gentle, pull fabric to one
side to gather. Pulling gently on the
bobbin thread will create a more
consistent gather.
Terms to know:
Baste
Bobbin Thread
Tension
Review Techniques:
Bobbin thread
Adjusting tension
Adjusting stitch length.
Notes:
Gathering - again
My Sample
Glossary of Sewing Terms

Common Terms used in sewing
Applique A surface embellishment made by sewing a cut piece of fabric to another piece of fabric.
Strong stitch that doubles back on the last stitch. This technique is perfect for securing seams
Backstitch
and mending
Bartack A short reinforcement of threads used in areas that are subject to wear/stress
Baste
Temporary long stitches that are used to hold fabric in place before the final stitching.
Blanket Also known as the buttonhole stitch. This stitch is used for adding a decorative finish to a fabric
Stitch
edge.
Blind Hem The sewing technique were the formation of the stitch is few and widely spaced across the hem
Stitch
of the garment. The thread is nearly invisible to the naked eye.
The technique used to finish a raw edge. This can mean a variety of different finishing
Clean Finish
techniques; overlock stitch, edge finish, zig-zag.
Finger Press Creating a crease in fabric by using the heat and force of your fingertips.
Gathering A long straight stitch that's used to pull fabric together to create a smaller surface area of fabric.
Stitch
This is used in garment construction and to create ruffles.
Hem
The finished edge of the bottom of a garment.
Tension
The amount of pressure on your thread as it passes through the sewing machine tension disks.
A technique where you change your stitching direction and create an angle point in the stitching
line.
Press
Using an iron to heat set the fabric flat.
Raw Edge The unfinished or cut edge of the fabric.
Pivot
Right Side This is commonly referred to as the side of the fabric where the design is most visible.
Seam
Seam
Allowance
Stitch
Length
The line where two pieces of fabric are joined together with stitches.
The fabric between a stitching line and the raw edge.
The Length of stitch determined by the movement of the feed dogs. This can be adjusted on
most sewing machines
The horizontal width of a stitch. Any stitch that has width will cause the needle bar to move
Stitch Width
horizontally. This can be adjusted on most sewing machines.
Straight The most basic stitch that produces a single row of straight even stitches. 99% of all sewing is
Stitch
done with a straight stitch.
This is machine stitches done on a garment for either a decorative effect or for more functional
Top Stitch
reasons.
This is a straight stitch that is programed to sew over each stitch three times. This creates a
Triple Stitch
thicker, more secure stitch.
Wrong Side The side of the fabric that is distinctly opposite of the printed side.
Zip Zag Commonly used 'Z' shaped machine stitch. This stitch is used commonly to finish an edge, sew
Stitch
on knits, or for decorative effect.
MY
SEWING
WORKBOOK

Computerized Sewing Machine * Bernina 215
13
15
11
8
7
14
10
16
6
18
17
19
20
23
12
5
22
27
21
4
3
24
1
26
25
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Bobbin Cover
Needle Plate
Presser Foot
Needle Clamp
Check Spring
Bobbin Pre-Tension
Thread Tension Path
Thread Guide
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.

Stitch Selection Buttons
Bobbin Winder
Spool Pin
Bobbin Winder stop
Handwheel
Stitch Width Button
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Needle Position Button

LCD Screen
Buttonhole Stitch
Needle Stop Up/Down
Stitch Length Button
Sewing Table Pin
Feed-Dog Drop
Reverse Button

Mechanical Sewing Machine * Bernina 1008
8 9 10
11
12
13 14
15
7
6
16
17
18
19
20
5
4
21
22
3
2
23/27
24
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Bobbin Cover
Needle Plate
Presser Foot
Needle Clamp
Check Spring
Bobbin Pre-Tension
Thread Tension Path
Thread Guide
25
26
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.

Stitch Selection Lever
Bobbin Winder
Spool Pin
Bobbin Winder stop
Handwheel
Stitch Width Knob
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Needle Position Knob

Handwheel Clutch Release
Buttonhole Knob
Light Switch
Stitch Length Knob
Sewing Table Pin
Feed-Dog Drop
Reverse Lever
Presser Feet
A Presser foot is a removable attachment that works with the feed-dogs

to hold fabric flat as the fabric is fed through the machine and stitched.
Many different presser feet are available that aid in different techniques.
The Most common used presser feet.
Anatomy of The Presser Foot.
Needle Bar Clamp
Shank
Needle Plate
Feed-dogs
Presser Foot Toes
Presser Foot Sole
Needles and Thread
Thread and Needles are important to stitching. Many

problems and damage to fabric can be related to a bent,
damaged or incorrect size/type needle.
Needle System for Home Sewing Machines is 130/705H
Needle Point Refers to the tip of the needle and its shape.
Needle Size is determined by the how big the needle is,
the smaller the size the smaller the number.
Needle
130/705H What's the
By Point Point
Most Common
Point. Slightly
Universal Rounded.
Very Rounded
Ballpoint point
Jeans and Very Sharp
Microtex Long Point
Leather
Cutting Point
Fabric
Size Range
Available
Good for most

fabrics
60-100
Knit, Jersery or
Stretch Fabrics
70-90
Heavy Tight
Woven Fabrics Jeans, Canvas
70-110
Natural or
Synthetic Leather,
Pleather
90-100
Poor quality thread or the

wrong type of thread can cause
poor quality stitches. Thread
passes through the eye of the
needle 35 times before it forms
a single stitch.
Thread is commonly categorized by the fiber, and the weight.

Fibers include Cotton Thread, Polyester Thread and Rayon Thread.
Weights can range from 8weight very thick thread to 120weight
very fine thread. For thread, the heavier the thread the smaller
the number.
Commonly Used Thread
Traditional Uses
Polyester 50wt
Clothing construction, Home Dcor, General purpose thread.
Cotton 60wt
delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning
Cotton 30wt
applique, buttonholes, machine embroidery
Rayon 40wt
fragile thread - decorative work only
Polyester Embrodery thread 40wt
Machine Embroidery - Commercial and Home
Practice -Sewing With Control

Sew on the lines w/o thread
Go slow. Be mindful. Dont miss!

1/4 Seam * 5/8 Seam * 2 Seam
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
line on the needle plate
Sew.
Attach the seam guide. Sew 2 on
the other side.
Find the marked seam line or
attach the quarter inch foot. Align
fabric edge on engraved line or the
edge of presser foot. Sew.
Terms to know:
Seam
Seam Guide
Needle Plate
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Review Techniques:

Guiding the fabric
Lowering the presser foot
Notes:

My Sample
Secure Stitching
Using the Reverse Sewing lever
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
line on the needle plate.
Sew towards you 5 stitches, stop.
Push the reverse lever or button.
Hold in place as you begin to sew
backwards. Continue to beginning
stitch. Release. Sew forward.
Continue sewing to the end of the
fabric. Stop. Activate reverse. Sew 5
stitches. Stop and release. Continue
to end and stop. Practice again on
other side of fabric.
Terms to know:
Right Side of Fabric

Wrong Side of Fabric.
Backstitch
Review Techniques:
5/8 seam
Activating the reverse
button or lever
Notes:
Secure Stitching
My Sample
Turning Corners
Pivot with needle stopped down in fabric
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Place fabric WST under the presser
foot with the top edge even with
the horizontal line of the top of the
needle plate. The right side of
fabric is on the 5/8 marking.
Engage needle down function. If
not available, turn handwheel
towards you until needle is in
fabric.
Sew until the bottom edge of fabric
touches the front of the horizontal
line of the needle plate. Stop
Pivot and continue sewing. Repeat
at all corners.
Terms to know:
Needle stop Up
Needle Stop Down
WST Wrong sides together
RST Right sides together
Review Techniques:
Pivoting fabric with

needle in the down
positon. Selecting your
needle stop function or
turning the handwheel.
Notes:
Turning Corners
My Sample
Seaming on Knits
Stretch stitch seam
Fabric
Two 2x6 rectangles of knit fabric
Needle
Ballpoint 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Stitch
Stretch Stitch * Stitch Length 1.9 mm & Stitch Width 1.3mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Position fabric to sew a 5/8 seam.
Stitch seam and remove from
sewing machine.
Stretch the fabric and the seam.
Youll notice that the stitches
remain in tact and wont break.
Please Note This stitch is good for
all knit fabric and especially good
for seams that will be stretched;
necklines, cuffs and waistbands.
Terms to know:
Seam
Seam Guide
Needle Plate
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Review Techniques:

Guiding the fabric on knits
Notes:
Seaming on Knits
My Sample
Edge Stitching
Sewing over the Edge with a zig-zag
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Zig-Zag Stitch * Stitch Length 2mm Stitch width 4mm
Needle Position
Far Right (if possible)
Directions:
Select the zig zag stitch. Guide the
fabric under the inside toe of the
presser foot.
On the zig (first stroke of the stitch)
the needle should be in the fabric.
On the zag (next stroke of the
stitch) the needle should be off the
edge of the fabric.
The fabric should lie flat.
Using too long of a stitch length or
too wide a stitch length will cause
the fabric to roll.
Terms to know:
Presser foot:
Shank & toe
Review Techniques:

Adjusting stitch width
Adjusting needle position.
Notes:
Edge Stitching
My Sample
Overlock Stitching
Professionally Finishing raw edges
Fabric
Two 5 square cotton knit fabric
Needle
Ballpoint 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Overlock Presser foot.
Stitch
Vari-Overlock Stitch * Stitch Length 2mm & Stitch Width 5.5mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch
Guide the raw edges of the fabric
under the pin of the presser foot.
Please Note: The stitches are
formed over the pin on the inner
right of the presser foot. This
supports the stitch and prevents
the stitch from collapsing.
The end result is the seam will have
a professional enclosed stitch that
will lay flat and be somewhat
elastic.
Terms to know:
Vari-Overlock
Overlock Presser foot
Raw Edge
Review Techniques:
Using an overlock foot.

Selecting vari-overlock stitch.
Notes:
Overlock Stitching
My Sample
Topstitching
Triple Straight Stitch
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight denim
Needle
Jeans 90/14
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot or Straight Stitch Foot
Stitch
Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm and Stitch Width 0mm

Triple stitch * Stitch Length 4mm & Stitch Width 0
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
WST seam the denim with 5/8
seam.
Finger press seam open. Select the
Triple stitch. With Right-Side up,
place the edge or ditch of the seam
under the presser foot. The edge of
the presser foot will rest along the
edge of the seam.
Starting at the top of the seam,
stitch the length of the fabric.
Continue on the other side of the
seam.
Terms to know:
Finger Press
Ditch (in seams)
Edge Stitch
Review Techniques:
Selecting the triple stitch

Inserting needles.
Guiding fabric under
presser foot.
Notes:
Topstitching
My Sample
Jeans Hem
Hemming Jeans with a Triple stitch
Fabric
5 square Denim fabric.
Needle
Jeans 90/14
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Triple Stitch * Stitch Length 4mm & Stitch Width is 0
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Turn up the edge of the fabric twice
each time about 1/2 or 3/8 and
press.
Using the edge of the presser foot,
topstitch about 1/8 from the
upper edge of the hem.
Please Note: It is easier to sew
towards the gradual incline of the
seam rather than the thickest part.
When using the triple stitch you do
not need to use jeans thread or
heavy weight thread. The stitches
are secure because each stitch is
three stitches.
Terms to know:
Jeans Hem
Press Vs. Iron
Review Techniques:
Sewing over thick fabric

Sewing over an incline.
Pressing Techniques
Notes:
Jeans Hem
My Sample
Blind Hem
Handpicked hem for skirts of dress pants
Fabric
6 square heavy flannel
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Blind hem foot.
Stitch
Blind Hem Stitch * Stitch Length 2.4mm & Stitch Width 3.5mm
Needle Position
Far Right
Directions:
Turn hem 1 along one of the 6
edge and press. Turn up 1 again.
Fold the hem toward the right side
of the fabric so the fabric fold is
almost even with the top edge of
the hem.
Place fabric under foot with eh fold
to the left of the blade on the foot.
The zig-zag of the stitch should
catch the fold. Adjust the stitch
width so the needle barely bites
the fold.
Terms to know:
Blindhem stitch
Blindhem Presser Foot
Review Techniques:
Adjusting Stitch width
Pressing
Folding for blind hem.
Notes:
Blind Hem
My Sample
Button Sew-On
Sewing a button on by machine
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Darning Foot *** Feed-Dogs Down***
Stitch
Zig-Zag stitch or button sew on stitch.

Stitch Length 0mm & Stitch Width 4mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Use glue stick to temporally hold button
in place.
*Select the button sew on stitch. Place
centered under the darning foot. Rotating
the handwheel toward you check to make
sure the needle clears both holes. Adjust
the stitch width as needed and continue
sewing.
* Select the zig-zag stitch. Center darning
foot. Adjust the zig-zag to 4mm.
Check width with handwheel. Stitch 6-8
times. Tie thread ends on wrong side of
fabric.
Terms to know:
Feed-Dogs
Darning foot
Review Techniques:
Dropping feed-dogs
Engaging feed-dogs
Adjusting stitch width.
Notes:
Button Sew-On
My Sample
Buttonhole
Regular Buttonhole and Corded Buttonhole
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight Cotton with stablizer
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester * Gimp cord for corded buttonhole
Presser Foot
Buttonhole foot
Stitch
Buttonhole stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Creating a buttonhole can vary
greatly by sewing machine.
Please consult your owners manual
on the best way to create a corded
buttonhole and regular buttonhole.
Terms to know:
Corded Buttonhole
Buttonhole
Gimp Cord
Stabilizer
Review Techniques:
Notes:
Buttonholes
Corded buttonholes with gimp cord
Buttonhole
My Sample
Exposed Zipper
Putting in an exposed Zipper
Fabric
Four 7 square Medium Weight Cotton
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Zipper foot
Stitch
Needle Position
Left or right
Directions:
Attach zipper foot. Either adjust the
needle position or adjust the
presser foot so you are able to sew
very close to the zipper teeth.
Layer fabric on one side of the
zipper raw edges and zipper tape
together. Layer top fabric and
bottom fabric RST. Pin layers
together.
Sew the length, moving zipper pull
as needed.
Repeat for other side. Topstitch on
both sides of zipper for decorative
detail and for durability.
Terms to know:
Pin baste
Review Techniques:
Adjusting needle position

Adjusting presser foot
Pin basting
topstitching
Notes:
Exposed Zipper
My Sample
Applique
Blanket Stitch Applique
Fabric

One prepared applique
Needle
Microtex 70/10
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Open toe foot
Stitch
Blanket Stitch * Stitch Length 2.6mm & Stitch Width 2.3mm
Needle Position
Center/far Right
Directions:
Fuse Shape to fabric and attach
open toe presser foot.
Select a blanket stitch. Stitch along
the outer edge of the fused shape.
The straight potion of the blanket
stitch will fall on the raw edge of
the shape. The points will be inside
the applique shape.
Please Note: Going slow and
frequently pivoting with needle
down in fabric will make applique
easier.
Terms to know:
Blanket Stitch
Satin stitch applique
Applique
Fusible Web
Review Techniques:
Pivot with needle down
Blanket stitch
Stitch control
Notes:
Applique
My Sample
Basting Stitch
For temporary hold
Fabric
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing
Stitch
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Lengthen your stitch to the longest
it will go.
Loosen your upper tension to 3.
Seam at 5/8 as normal.
Please Note: Stitch will be loose
and will come apart. This is only
meant for temporary hold. Handle
with care.
Terms to know:
Thread Tension
Upper Tension
Baste
Review Techniques:
Adjusting Upper Tension

Basting a Seam
Notes:
Basting Stitch
My Sample
Gathering
Gathering over cord
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight Cotton & Gimp cord
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch
Zig zag stitch * Stitch Length 2.mm & Stitch Width 4mm
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Place cord under the presser foot
on top of the fabric.
Seam 5/8 down the length of the
fabric. Secure the cord at the ends
by tying a knot. Pull the fabric
towards an end to gather.
After gathering sew bartacks at the
beginning and end of the seam
Gathering over a cord adds strength
and give you better control of how
much it gathers.
Terms to know:
Bartacks
gathering
Review Techniques:
Bartacks
Adjusting width and length
gather
Notes:
Gathering
My Sample
Gathering - again
Gathering with basting stitch
Fabric
5 square Medium Weight Cotton
Needle
Universal 80/12
Thread
50 Weight Polyester
Presser Foot
Regular Sewing Foot
Stitch

Loosen upper tension to 2
Needle Position
Center
Directions:
Loosen upper tension to 2.
Sew 5/8 seam.
Being very gentle, pull fabric to one
side to gather. Pulling gently on the
bobbin thread will create a more
consistent gather.
Terms to know:
Baste
Bobbin Thread
Tension
Review Techniques:
Bobbin thread
Adjusting tension
Adjusting stitch length.
Notes:
Gathering - again
My Sample
Glossary of Sewing Terms

Common Terms used in sewing
Applique A surface embellishment made by sewing a cut piece of fabric to another piece of fabric.
Strong stitch that doubles back on the last stitch. This technique is perfect for securing seams
Backstitch
and mending
Bartack A short reinforcement of threads used in areas that are subject to wear/stress
Baste
Temporary long stitches that are used to hold fabric in place before the final stitching.
Blanket Also known as the buttonhole stitch. This stitch is used for adding a decorative finish to a fabric
Stitch
edge.
Blind Hem The sewing technique were the formation of the stitch is few and widely spaced across the hem
Stitch
of the garment. The thread is nearly invisible to the naked eye.
The technique used to finish a raw edge. This can mean a variety of different finishing
Clean Finish
techniques; overlock stitch, edge finish, zig-zag.
Finger Press Creating a crease in fabric by using the heat and force of your fingertips.
Gathering A long straight stitch that's used to pull fabric together to create a smaller surface area of fabric.
Stitch
This is used in garment construction and to create ruffles.
Hem
The finished edge of the bottom of a garment.
Tension
The amount of pressure on your thread as it passes through the sewing machine tension disks.
A technique where you change your stitching direction and create an angle point in the stitching
line.
Press
Using an iron to heat set the fabric flat.
Raw Edge The unfinished or cut edge of the fabric.
Pivot
Right Side This is commonly referred to as the side of the fabric where the design is most visible.
Seam
Seam
Allowance
Stitch
Length
The line where two pieces of fabric are joined together with stitches.
The fabric between a stitching line and the raw edge.
The Length of stitch determined by the movement of the feed dogs. This can be adjusted on
most sewing machines
The horizontal width of a stitch. Any stitch that has width will cause the needle bar to move
Stitch Width
horizontally. This can be adjusted on most sewing machines.
Straight The most basic stitch that produces a single row of straight even stitches. 99% of all sewing is
Stitch
done with a straight stitch.
This is machine stitches done on a garment for either a decorative effect or for more functional
Top Stitch
reasons.
This is a straight stitch that is programed to sew over each stitch three times. This creates a
Triple Stitch
thicker, more secure stitch.
Wrong Side The side of the fabric that is distinctly opposite of the printed side.
Zip Zag Commonly used 'Z' shaped machine stitch. This stitch is used commonly to finish an edge, sew
Stitch
on knits, or for decorative effect.

Sewing Sewing Machine 101 Student Work Book

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Sewing Sewing Machine 101 Student Work Book

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Hello!

Thank you for purchasing my Sewing Machine 101 class!

2 student workbook covers

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine

Thread Tension Adjustment

Needle Position Button

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine

Thread Tension Adjustment

Needle Position Knob

A Presser foot is a removable attachment that works with the feed-dogs

Anatomy of The Presser Foot.

Needle Bar Clamp

Needles and Thread

Thread and Needles are important to stitching. Many

Good for most

Poor quality thread or the

Thread is commonly categorized by the fiber, and the weight.

Commonly Used Thread

Clothing construction, Home Dcor, General purpose thread.

delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning

applique, buttonholes, machine embroidery

fragile thread - decorative work only

Polyester Embrodery thread 40wt

Machine Embroidery - Commercial and Home

Practice -Sewing With Control

Go slow. Be mindful. Dont miss!

Straight Stitch Seam

Two 5 square Medium Weight Cotton

Regular Sewing Foot and Quarter inch foot

Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm & Stitch Width 0

Finding Needle Plate Makings

Straight Stitch Seam

Using the Reverse Sewing lever

Two 5 square Medium Weight Cotton

Regular Sewing Foot

Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm & Stitch Width 0

Right Side of Fabric

Pivot with needle stopped down in fabric

Two 5 square Medium Weight Cotton

Regular Sewing Foot and Quarter inch foot

Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm & Stitch Width 0

Pivoting fabric with

Two 2x6 rectangles of knit fabric

Regular Sewing Foot and Quarter inch foot

Stretch Stitch * Stitch Length 1.9 mm & Stitch Width 1.3mm

Finding Needle Plate Makings

Sewing over the Edge with a zig-zag

Two 5 square Medium Weight Cotton

Regular Sewing Foot

Zig-Zag Stitch * Stitch Length 2mm Stitch width 4mm

Far Right (if possible)

Adjusting stitch length

Professionally Finishing raw edges

Two 5 square cotton knit fabric

Overlock Presser foot.

Vari-Overlock Stitch * Stitch Length 2mm & Stitch Width 5.5mm

Using an overlock foot.

Triple Straight Stitch

5 square Medium Weight denim

Regular Sewing Foot or Straight Stitch Foot

Straight Stich * Stitch Length 2.5mm and Stitch Width 0mm

Selecting the triple stitch

Hemming Jeans with a Triple stitch

5 square Denim fabric.

Darning Foot * Feed-Dogs Down*