En All Newsletters Mathilde Antoine Compr

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine
20/5/14, Newsletter 1
IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: May 20th 2014 (22nd day)
Location: Kars, East Turkey
Driven km up to date: 3 300.
PHOTOS
NEWS
On April 28th, we started driving towards Sarti in Greece, village on the seaside that we
appreciate a lot, after having spent a month in France and a last week-end in Sofia.
Our ambition was to relax and get used to leaving in the van while enjoying the region. We
have settled our camp on a bay where we have made lots of tests: toilets, shower,
cooking, sleeping, and other technical stuff.
Pros: we have everything we need inside + the feeling of living integrated in our
surrounding environment + magnificent views from our bed. Cons: doing 1000 times
the same movements in a very small space. We have to get used to our new daily life.
With most of the things set on May 8th, 2014, we decided to start driving towards Turkey.
A logistical problem with the closing system of our roof has blocked us for 3 days
before Istanbul. Finally, we headed straight East.
This has been the occasion to understand how big Turkey is, discover its mountains,
historical villages and Black Sea coast. History in the region isnt a piece of cake: rich
and complex (conflicts and population displacements, past influence of great empires).
As we initially hoped, inhabitants have been very welcoming and often inviting us for a
tea. The language barrier clearly limits our communication with people, but we learn
how to remain open minded and catch / provoke opportunities to feel human warmth.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
A barbecue shared with a familly of friends

in their field of olive trees with a private
lesson of Greek danses;
Local-style hair cuts in Greece for Mathilde

and Turkey for Antoine;
A nice trekk to a 3000m summit and an

invitation to have a tea by some villagers.
CURRENT MOOD: After all the logistics we have been through, we only feel now
that the adventure has begun.
COUNTRIES VISITED : Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey

COMING: Armenia, Georgia, Azerbadjan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Tadjikistan, Kirghizistan, Ouzbekistan,
Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Russia, Japan, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodgia, Thaland, Birmania, Malaysia,
Singapore, South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.
MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter
Sarti
IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: June 17th 2014 (51st day)
Location: Rasht, Iran
PHOTOS
NEWS
After having discovered Eastern Turkey (previously Western Great Armenia), its booming
seaside economic activity, tea fields, high-altitude mysterious lands, and architectural
pieces of art witnessing a rich past (Middle Ages fortresses, ancient city, churches), we
headed towards South Caucasus.
Armenia was a surprise for us due to its great past influence and its current tricky
geopolitical situation (conflict with Azerbaidjan and slippery relations with Turkey).
Weve had a real crush on Georgia (most probably since it resembles Bulgaria to a certain
extent). Benefitting from a gorgeous nature, nice vineyards, a warm population, plenty
of interesting historical sites and a modern capital, Georgia is a very nice country to
visit (and who knows, maybe to live in).
As far as the last country is concerned, Azerbaijan, this country has left a bitter taste in our
mouths, capable of the best (Baku, magnificent city out of a surrounding lunar desert,
thanks to the country oil wealth), as well as the worst (little swindles, distant
population, dirt in the countryside).
Our van is in great shape! As we believed, its really good to feel at home as soon as we
close the doors and hide behind our tinted windows. We got used to new habits and do
not bump everywhere in the van as much as before! Time flies and we accumulate
experiences. We live in a timeless universe.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
An evening with an Armenian family (at Soss),

where weve discovered the taste of local garden
fruits and herbs.
Several days spent on the Lake Bazaleti shore,

letting time pass.
Shopping at Carrefour (Tbilissi) followed by a

royal barbecue with beef on the grill!
The toast ceremony with local wine in Georgia:

at Gotchas (nostalgic about his years in USSR
army), at Tavids (with whom we have milked
his cows), or with Georgi (big guy who was
ballet dancer in the Chatelet theatre - Paris).
CURRENT MOOD : Its time for Iran, during Ramazan in a Muslim country, where
we expect great surprises. Weve finished beers and wine, prepared Mathildes dressing
and well jump in the scorching heat. We also hope to be able to follow the World cup!
COUNTRIES VISITED : Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan

COMING : Iran, Turkmenistan, Ouzbekistan, Tadjikistan, Kirghizistan, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Russia,
Japan, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodgia, Thaland, Birmania, Malaysia, Singapore, South Africa, Namibia,
Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.

6
5
4
7
1) Ani (TK)
2) Marmashen (AR)
3) Yerevan (AR)
4) Tbilissi (GE)
5) Bazaleti (GE)
6) Kazbegi (GE)
7) Signagi (GE)
8) Seki (AZ)
9) Baku (AZ)
8
1
2
9
3
IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: July 22nd 2014 (86th day)
Location: Khiva, Uzbekistan
PICTURES
NEWS
In Iran, we have discovered a welcoming and open population; a rich civilization building
a bridge between East and West, incredible and numerous architectural sites (mosques,
fortified old towns, caravanserais, etc.), great past empires, and a regionally influent
country, centre of shiism. The country is a desert in its large majority, but Iran has
deployed the necessary means to adapt to this environment. Ramadan has not been so
difficult to stand (we were hiding in the van to eat and drink). However, we do not
recommend to visit this area in summer (suffocating! Often over 40 degrees Celsius).
Wrong ideas that the Western medias try to make us believe: Iran is not dangerous, people
are not introverted fundamentalists and most of Iranian women do not wear the burka
(they have to wear a veil hijab and a loose tunic).
Remember this: Iranian people are delicate and sophisticated, have a great sense of
hospitality, like poetry (cf. Hafez) and are very open to foreigners. We thank all our
Iranian friends, who have welcomed us with open arms!
Turkmenistan has been a nice surprise. Despite suffering a dictatorship (nearly as closed as
North Korea), the population is nice, lively and open. The contrast between the
blinking capital with its marble buildings and the extremely poor state of the Northern
roads was striking to us. The Darvaza inflamed gas crater and the old city of KonyeUrguench were really worth a look.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
The friendship built with our host family in Rasht

and the birthday party of a friends daughter.
The interview we had to pass with mullahs

(religious leaders) when entering the sacred site of
Qom, Mathilde all wrapped in a chador. In theory,
non Muslims were not allowed to get in.
The countless heat waves, sweat drops we felt, and

hot wind drying our eyes.
Sharing meals on carpets (big tables!) or sleeping on

mattresses on the floor with air conditioning.
CURRENT MOOD : Happy to enjoy life (note: so much more enjoyable without
mosquito bites), curious to discover Central Asia. Mathilde feels relieved not to have to
wear the hijab and Antoine feels like driving for hours... We are excited to meet Kat and
Manu in Samarkand for a week.
COUNTRIES VISITED :
Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran,
Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan
COMING : Tajikistan, Kirghizstan,

Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Russia,
Japan, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia,
Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia,
Singapore, South Africa, Namibia,
Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.
MAP - ITINERARY :
since the last newsletter
1- Alamut valley
2- Kashan bazaar
3- Isfahan place
4- Persepolis
5- Yazd ville
6- Garmeh oasis
7- Zein-O-Dein
8- Darvaza craters
9- Koye-Urguench
2
2
IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: August 30th 2014 (124th day)
Location: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
PHOTOS
NEWS
In Central Asia, we have discovered a region we did not know at all! Centre of a booming
economy in the 11th-12th centuries, key cross point of the Silk Road (cf. ancient cities of
Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand), this region has later been destroyed (Gengis Kan), or
zone of conflict of interests for foreign nations (Russia, Great-Britain, USA, China) or
forgotten. The regional populations are a mix of surprising nuances (Mongol, Russian,
Turkish), traditionally nomadic from the culture of the initial North-Eastern tribes
populating the area, converted to Islam but used to the influence of the Northern
Russian giant. With positive effects: people are rather relaxed and know how to spend
good time (barbecues, swimming in rivers); but also negative ones: cotton monoculture,
ecological disaster of the Aral sea. Central Asia is one more region in the world in
which borders (designed by Stalin) are disrespectful of the local ethnical balance.
This month, what has been striking to us is: the visit of Manu and Katerina in Samarkand,
the landscapes of high altitude on the Pamir highway, the golden teeth!, the two
festivals we attended in Murgab (Kyrgyz horse) and in Bokonbaevo (eagle and horse)
and the surprise to discover a quiet and magnificent beach on the border of a Kyrgyz
lake, exactly when we started to be a bit exhausted.
We are: feeling good in our van (60th night spent in a row in it), a bit worried by some
mechanical issues (full check up planned in Almaty), tired by the long driving days,
but most of all conscious and happy to be free every day.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
7h spent in Dushanbe to fix a mistake done by the

customs when we entered the country.
Very tiring search for diesel all across the country in

Uzbekistan, even ending up by emptying a truck
tank from its diesel.
Feeling of loneliness when trying to go through

passes above 4000 m high when our diesel injection
system was not working properly.
Kyrgyz horse festival in Tajikistan.
CURRENT MOOD : Our initial plan to go hiking in high altitude was replaced by an
extraordinary laziness of 10 days on an Issy-Kul lake beach. Our batteries are recharged,
the tensions we had stored because of mechanical problems and a too ambitious
planning over the month were evacuated and we are brand newly curious and open.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan.
COMING : Kazakhstan, Russia, Japan, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia,
Singapore, South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.
1.Moynaq Aral (UZ)

2.Noukous museum (UZ)
3.Boukhara (UZ)
4.Pamir highway (TAD)
5.Mourgab horse fest (TAD)
6.Karakul lake (TAD)
7.Sary Tach view (KIR)
8.Issy Kul lake (KIR)
9.Alamedin valley (KIR)
3
7
6
4
IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: September 27th 2014 (153rd day)
Location: Irkutsk, Russia
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
Unlike Turkmenistan (closed borders and economy only fed by oil and gas), the Kazakh
economy is booming globally. Even though the regime of president Nazerbaev cannot
but be qualified as authoritarian (ruling since USSR collapsed), the latter still adopts a
very pragmatic approach. He provides the country with a long-term vision (cf.
Kazakhstan 2050 plan) which should benefit to most of the population (good
infrastructures, education). We have noticed a significant increase of the yogurt market
(). Almaty is an effervescent town, of enjoyable size. The ethnical mixture in
Kazakhstan is sticking. The displacements of populations during and after the soviet
period has mixed ethnical groups, which today seem to live together in relative peace.
In the rest of the country, we have rediscovered immensity (since Iran) and discovered
the deserted steppes. The Kazakh people we met have been very nice to us.
After having passed an incredibly efficient border to Russia (we were fearing the Russia
red tape, obviously we were wrong), our Siberian adventure started very intensively:
terrible cold wave (snow), magnificent ballet, nice architecture, drinking night and
after-drinking-night morning soup with a Siberian, grandmas afternoon snack in a
dacha (the second houses in the countryside a real institution in Russia!). Distances in
Siberia are hard to conceive, as much as cold is (the river Ob, 3 times wider than the
French Seine, freezes in winter!). Siberians are both robust and delicate and elegant at
the same time. Oh Siberia and its extremes should continue to surprise us.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Hiking in the frozen valley in Ala Archa
A week spent at Anne-Renaud-Raphal-Sarahs.

Oh yeah, the taste of home, family and daily life is
so good!
Abandoned sites of Kurchatov, former Russian

nuclear test base (~500 over 1949-89)
Stuck in the mod in Russia: 3h of work to get out!
Discovery of the Siberian culture with Vassili in

Novosibirsk (ballet, dacha and drinking evening)
CURRENT MOOD : Temperatures have fallen from 35 to under 0 (snow) in a week,

its freezing! We have a lot of driving ahead we just drove 4500 km in the last 2 weeks
and have the same ahead to reach Vladivostok. And our exit from Russia is not planned
clearly: a nice boat to travel to Japan before our Russian visa expiry orexpulsed by the
police if we missed by a few days the last ferry? Why? Local companies do not answer
neither mails nor the phone, well see!
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia.
COMING : Japan, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, South Africa,
Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.

6
5
1.Ala Archa parc (KIR)

2.Almaty (KA)
3.Charyn Canyon (KA)
4.Semey (KA)
5.Novossibirsk (RU)
6.Tomsk (RU)
2
1

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: October 30th 2014 (186th day)
Location: Daecheon, South Korea
PHOTOS
NEWS
Our experience in Russia was very nice until the end. The size of the country is fascinating.
We changed time zone five times in three weeks. The Russian conquest of the East by
the rail, a nearly federal system, the pride of Russian greatness reminded us of another
country, the United States ... irony of history: the Cold War enemies are to some extent
alike. The Russians we met were concerned about the image of Russia abroad following
the conflict in Ukraine and wanted to highlight the fact that Russia is not in itself a
warlike state. We enjoyed the culture and have diversified our activities: hockey,
classical concert, visit of a beer factory, visit of a submarine, etc. The Russian system
works very well and our red tape was carried out very quickly. Two surprises: 1) over
about 8000 km, we have not been stopped once by the police; 2) during one month, we
have not drunk a drop of vodka! Russians are friendly and roads are in good state.
We did not expect anything specific before arriving in South Korea. It was spontaneously
love at first sight! The country is rich and highly developed but full of surprises (food,
language, etc.). The Korean lifestyle is very close to the Western one. Seoul is a huge
metropolis but still nice. Korean people are a perfect balance between calm and respect
on the one hand, and sense of humor and creativity on the other. We believe that this
balance is the reason why they manage a perfect urban cleanliness as well as an
indisputable technological performance.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Swim in the freezing water of Lake Baikal
Nightlife in Vladivostok and Seoul
Saunas both in the Russian and Korean way
Korean seafood (spectacular octopus soup)
Antoines phone theft and restitution 24h later

after an epic adventure
Yearly party of retired people and meeting with

the great Lee family
Lotte World amusement park in Seoul
CURRENT MOOD : Delighted to be done with visas and big mileage sessions, we
fully enjoy Korea. Our eyes, ears and mouths are highly requested in this new country,
full immersion in Asia.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea.
COMING : Japan, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, South Africa,
Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.

Departure
Arrival
2
3
4
1.Irkutsk (RU)
2.Okhlon - Bakal (RU)
3.Ulan Ude temples (RU)
4.Khabarovsk (RU)
5.Vladivostok (RU)
6.Ferry (RU-CO)
7.East coast beaches (CO)
8.Seoraksan park (CO)
9.Seoul (CO)
5
6
7
9
8

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: November 26th 2014 (213th day)
Location: Minamata, Japan
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
This month, we have slowed down on the cruise speed. We have mainly traveled in two
areas: around Busan in Korea and around Fukuoka in Japan.
The day after the last newsletter, we were on our way to Busan for logistical reasons.
Actually, a surprise was organised: Jeanne and Romain (close friends) joined us by
surprise for a few days when we thought we would not see them before weeks. We had
a great time together!
Korea remained a pleasant adventure until the end: varied and spicy food, and great time
spent with Koreans encountered on our way (Marco in Busan, Jino in Daegu).
After a few issues related to our gas supply (still problematic today), we crossed the Sea of
Japan up to Fukuoka. The sumo competition, we were looking forward to, was really sa
good as expected and a great introduction to Japan. It has been a week that we are in
Minamata, a city that has suffered an environmental disaster (pollution linked to a
surplus of mercury in the sea which had serious consequences on health and the
environment). We joined a volunteer working camp and were welcomed in a
collocation with 4 other young foreigners in a typical Japanese house. We are working
on the transformation of bamboo to charcoal and use of flowers and fiber / cotton to
produce naturally colored fabrics.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Surprise arrival of Jeanne and Romain in Busan

with their baby and life in the van with Jeanne;
Macoli evening (drink from fermented wheat)

with Marco in Busan;
Gas provision search in Daegu with Jino and later

in Fukuoka;
Sumo contest in Fukuoka;
Life and work in Minamata on a voluntary site.
CURRENT MOOD : Weve had a wonderful week living in Minamata together with
Paul, Malte, Kazu and Mae. Were living in a house and have a daily routine. We
probably will spent another week here and then go on the road again...
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea, Japan.
COMING : Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, South Africa, Namibia,

Departure
Arrival
1.Busan (CO)
2.Fukuoka comptition
de sumos (JP)
3.Kumamoto chteau
(JP)
4.Minamata renouveau
cologique (JP)
5.Yonotsuru (JP)
1
2
3
4

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: December 24th 2014 (241th day)
Location: Kyoto, Japan
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
The end of our stay in Mina Mata was just as nice. We accomplished new tasks: orange tree
cutting, Christmas bamboo decoration workshop, cooking pizzas with bambou
charcoal. We also enjoyed the life in proximity with our neighbors.
Then, we jumped again in our van to start conquering Japan. We have seen thousands of
cranes in a park (migration for the winter). We enjoyed many Japanese delights:
excellent food, tasty beer, "onsen" (hot thermal water baths, great when outdoor under
the snow), Buddhism, countless magnificent temples, Zen gardens, culture of green tea,
automobile fleet (cars are often cubic and narrow, just like in Nicky Larson!), manga /
animes and the culture of cos play (people disguising as manga characters), kimonos
and wooden tongues, the delicacy of Japanese craft works, houses with sliding doors,
geishas (spotted in the street), everyday politeness (verbal and physical, by bending the
body forward), the art of festivals, calligraphy, history (such as the museum of the
atomic bomb in Nagasaki, terrifying consecutive diseases, 135,000 deaths).
The country is more mountainous than we imagined, and not so crowded in many areas.
The Japanese are very respectful of the rules and very rarely leave the beaten paths. We
have seen in them a tendency to stress. One can note that Japan today is not as
flourishing economically as it used to (Korea now exceeds Japan in many areas) and
has a tendency to withdraw into isolation.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
On-matsuri festival in Nara,
Celebration of Mathildes birthday,
Koya-san, mystical walk to a temple through a forest

of century-old cedars while snow was fallling,
Onsens and the feeling of deep warmth afterwards,
Extraordinary lobster diner (Ise ebi),
December 21st market at Tori, in Kyoto.
CURRENT MOOD : For the end of year, we feel a

bit far, but well overcome it... It's cold, but we enjoy
this before moving towards South East Asia.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea, Japan.
COMING : Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, South Africa, Namibia,

Departure
Arrival
7
3
6
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Mt Aso
Nagasaki
Osaka by night
Koya san
Ise jingju and ise ebi
Nara on-matsuri
Kyoto

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: January 29th 2015 (277th day)
Location: Khao Lak, Thailand
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
Our end-of-year celebrations went well. We celebrated Christmas in a good beef restaurant
and New Year with very cool Australians in Hakuba. We were overwhelmed by the
snow in the Japanese Alps, rather acrobatic without chains... Skiing in two Japanese
resorts was a real pleasure for us and helped us face the freezing cold nights in the van.
After a stop in front of the majestic Mount Fuji, we prepared the van for its 3-week trip and
left it in Yokohama. Our homeless adventure began. We enjoyed living the sedentary
life for a week at Gaspards in Tokyo, met great people (En, Ryoko, Kiriu, Julian, Yudgi,
etc.) and visited the city (electronics district Akiba, Senso-ji Temple, Shibuya by night !,
overlapping roads, Ghibli museum). Then, we imerged ourselves into public transports
to Singapore and Thailand: plane, taxi, bus, touktouk, scooter nicknamed "ptarou".
We also shared some beautiful moments with our friends (to whom we made nice
surprise visits): Jeanne and Romain in Singapore; Rmi and Cyril on Koh Chang in
Thailand; Aurlie and Jonath in Khao Lak (and Francis and Salva). Going back to heat,
flip flops and shorts is being very pleasant after the cold we had!
And... we got our Pavan back on Monday (26th) after quick formalities at the harbour (well
prepared in advance). Staying in hotels with AC or fans was good, but we have to be
cautious about the budget
FUNNY
PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Waking up in the van covered with snow

and skiing
French pancakes and cider in Tokyo
4L drive in Shibuya with our friend En
Faces of Jeanne, Cyril and Aurlie who

we visited by surprise
Evenings with our friends
Relaxation in the Merlin Hotel
CURRENT MOOD : We are all relaxed and happy to have seen our friends and to
have had a very sociable month. We start our Southeast-Asian adventure with the
idea to enjoy its beaches, exotic nature and flavors (yummygood fruits!).
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea, Japan, Singapore,
Thailand.
COMING : Cambodia, Laos, (Vietnam), (Myanmar), (Malaysia), South Africa, Namibia, Zambia,
Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania.

Departure
Arrival
1
2
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Hirayu (JP)
Tokyo (JP)
Koh Chang (TH)
Khaosan road
district in
Bangkok (TH)
Khao Lak (TH)
4
3
5

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: February 25th 2015 (304th day)
Location: Khanom, Thailand
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
After our friends left, we continued to enjoy the beautiful Thai beaches. The Andaman coast
in Thailand has incredible advantages: good infrastructure, excellent service, exquisite
cuisine with delicious flavors (red or green curry, ginger, lemongrass, seafood, etc.),
tasty fruits (mango, coconut, pineapples, bananas), warm and crystal clear sea, rich
waters (we dove with manta rays!), great weather (warm but not humid in this season),
relaxing Thai massage (kind of passive yoga), and smiling and friendly people.
We spent another week in Khao Lak, between the pleasant heat and elephants. We got back to
an intensive book reading period and got a little tanned. Then, after a short visit in
Phuket, Krabi and its surrounding karst hills, weve spent a week on Koh Lanta,
between sand, coconut trees and monkeys (little thieves!). We met other families
travelling by camping car with whom we had a great time and exchanged tips & tricks.
Since our month-permit for Thailand was expiring, we spent four days in Malaysia. Our
target: spend the Chinese New Year in Georgetown on Penang, among smoky incense
temples, thousands of red lanterns, lion dance, etc. As a former crossroads of trade
between Asia and Europe, Malaysia surprised us by its ethnic plurality (Indian, Malay,
Chinese) and religious plurality (Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists). This results in a
significant culinary variety and, in the northwest of the country (Kedah and Perlis), an
atmosphere of tolerance and peace.
FUNNY
PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Diving with manta rays.
Rest and relax on the beach, losing the

notion of time.
Shared moments with the families of David

&Orlane, Ion &Nina, Jose &Patricia.
Chinese New Year in Georgetown.
Malaysian smiles around the car.
CURRENT MOOD : We still want to enjoy a few more days of relaxation and
then well be heading north on the road again to meet new people. If we go to
Myanmar and Vietnam, it will backpacking since it's too expensive with the van.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia.
COMING : (Myanmar), Laos, Cambodia, (Vietnam), South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana,
Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania, and maybe crossing the African continent.
MAP - ITINERARY :
6
1
Departure
Arrival
2
3
1.Khao Lak (TH)

2.Northwest of Phuket (TH)
3.Koh Lanta (TH)
4.Georgetown (MA)
5.Regions of Kedah/ Perlis (MA)
6.Beach of Khanom (TH)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: March 25th 2015 (332nd day)
Location: Chiang Rai, Thailand
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
Leaving Pavan alone on a parking lot for ten days was not easy, but did not regret it. Our
experience in Myanmar was great. As soon as we arrived, things started to strike us:
men wear longyis (kind of long skirt); women wear a natural cream on the face as make
up, tanaka; and betel is widely chewed by people who smile with teeth tainted red.
After Yangoon, stunning city due to its multiculturalism and its disordered street markets, we
again immersed into transport modes: VIP and local buses, scooters, bikes.
Backpacking allowed us to socialize with other travelers. Mandalay has seduced us
with its authenticity and the beauty of its hidden treasures, such as the island of Ava or
Mahumani. A 3-day trekking from Kalaw to Inle Lake (without shower) allowed us a
nice immersion - meals and stay in the villagers bamboo houses on stilts. The life in the
village is really basic (no water, no electricity). We had good fun with our walking
fellows Sandra, Zoe, Toli, Tristan and Quentin. Burmese are extremely smiley and
rather bright. We discovered a new mode of agriculture with floating gardens in Inle.
In Bangkok, we were happy to find Pavan back in perfect state. Heading west, we visited
Erawan waterfalls, the museum of Hellfire Pass (forced construction of a railway line
during WW2), and the village of Thong Pha Phum, where weve been received by Kay
as if we were her children. Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai (former capital of Thailand for
200 years) are pretty historical sites.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Celebrate Baba Marta at the beach.
Land in Myanmar, walk eyes wide open and get large

smiles back.
Walk 60km between Kalaw and Inle: we suffered a bit

from the heat and from the poor condition of our
shoes, but it was awesome!
Get a natural pedicure by fish in Erawan.
Bathe in the river in Thong Pha Phum and have dinner

at Kays, nice woman.
CURRENT MOOD : We suffer from the heat

(stormy with the first rains)! Were beginning the
last part of our Asian trip before the next chapter.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar.
COMING : Laos, Cambodia, (Vietnam), South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania, and maybe crossing the African continent.
2
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
1.Yangoon (BIR)
2.Mandalay (BIR)
3.Inle lake (BIR)
4.Museum WW2 Hellfire pass (TH)
5.Thong Pha Phum (TH)
5
4

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: April 22nd 2015 (360th day)
Location: Vientiane, Laos
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
This last month has been spent between northern Thailand and Laos. In Thailand, we visited
the northern part. First Mae Salong, a remote village in the mountains where the
Chinese influence is visible. In Pai, funny hippie town, we visited an elephant center
and discovered the delicacy of these giants (chicks were walking between their feet).
Meeting Jeanne and Romain in Chiang Mai was great! We didnt visit the city that
much, but we enjoyed our swimming pool and family bungalow! Our little road trip to
go to the Laotian border was very nice: Lamphun and Lampang (temples and woodden
houses); Phayao on the edge of a lake; Phu Chi Fa, perched on a cliff, which is a natural
barrier between the two countries. Impressive storms scared us at night.
Crossing the border was smooth. We discovered the Mekong! The following week was
punctuated by Songkran (Thai) or Pii Mai (Lao): "New Year". Traditionally, a little water
is poured on you to purify you for the new year. In reality, it is a huge generalized
water fight, where the festivities have few limits. We had a great fun.
In Luang Nam Tha, a trek brought us to the heart of the jungle in a village that made us
realise what the comforts of modern life at work and at home really mean. Luang
Prabang, a city with French architectural prints, is superb! We discovered the beautiful
karstic landscapes of Vang Vieng tubbing (tire on which one goes down the river). The
French cultural influence is present and appreciated (restaurants, bread, etc.)
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Put your head on a one-ton elephant
Discover ultra-remote villages
Spend the week-end with some friends
Be decorated, flooded and invited by

local people for Songkran
Meet French expats in Vientiane and

enjoy our home cuisine
CURRENT MOOD : The rainy season is reaching us. Hotels for 10 a night are
welcome when it is still 35 degrees at 23.00PM. Our Asian road trip is coming to an
end (the van will be shipped on May 14th from Thailand). We'll enjoy these 3 weeks.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos.
COMING : Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe,
Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania, and maybe crossing the African continent.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
3
1.Mae Salong (TH)

2.Route Phayao-Chiang Khong (TH)
3.Trek autour de Luang Nam Tha (LA)
4.Luang Prabang (LA)
5.Vang Vieng paysage (LA)
4
2
5

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: May 26th 2015 (394th day)
Location: Singapore
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
Leaving Vientiane and its French community of expats, we headed South East towards the
quiet valley of Kong Lo and its serene inhabitants. We really liked Laos. Side-stepped
by tourists, since it has no access to the sea, in reality Laos counts a huge amount of
water sources (rivers, waterfalls). The region of Paksong and its coffee plantations is
very green; towns with colonial architecture dating from the French protectorate such
as Savannakhet are peaceful. Further South, the Mekong river sets the pace in the
region: the 4000 islands are accessible by boat. Don Det is one of them, and provides to
its visitors an immediate sense of relaxation.
Cambodia has been a shock to us: phoenix reborn from its ashes, it is a bustling country (the
intensive modernization of Phnom Penh illustrates this fact), recovering from the
tragedy of the Khmer Rouge (nearly 2 million people killed within 4 years). Le Phare
circus wowed us - artistic expression channel for young people suffering, after the
genocide. Cambodians are gentle and smiling, eager to regain their pride as in the past.
The temples of Angkor, one of the previous capitals of the Khmer Empire (~ IX-XVth
centuries), rather than beautiful, are impressive. The crabs from Kampot cooked with
pepper from Kep are delicious.
After having sent our van on a cargo from Laem Chabang to Durban, we flew to Bali and
were not disappointed: traditional costumes, ceremony of offerings to Hindu deities,
temples, rice fields, volcanoes, aquatic flora and fauna, cheap and high quality services,
nice people (beside the fact that service providers are a little tacky). And here we are
now, at Jeanne and Romains place in Singapore for 10 days.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Crossing by boat a 7-km-long cave
Invasion of thousands of ants in the van
Horrifying visit of the S21 prison in

Phnom Penh, tragic witness of human
stupidity
Meeting of French expatriates and

travelers and interesting conversations
about different lifestyles
CURRENT MOOD : This last month has been very busy. We met many people and
traveled in several countries. It's time to realize what weve seen and enjoy the
sedentary life in Singapore for ten days.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia.
COMING : Vietnam, South Africa, France, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique,
Malawi, Tanzania, and maybe crossing the African continent (Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt).
1
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
2
5 4
3
Arrival
1.Kong Lo (LA)
2.Don Det island (LA)
3.Pnom Penh (CA)
4.Angkor (CA)
5.Cirque Phare Siem Rehap (CA)
6.Bali (BA)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: June 23rd 2015 (422nd day)
Location: Kokstad, South Africa
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
After Singapore, we headed towards Vietnam. Andy and Shelley warmly welcomed us into
their new apartment. We spent 3 days in Ho Chi Minh city and 3 days riding scooters
in the Mekong Delta. Phuc, our guide, made us discover the delights of Vietnamese
cuisine (crab, shrimp, fish, shellfish, eels, etc.). The ph, local soup noodles, is light and
tasty. The delta is a very agricultural region, where many fruits grow and in which rice
fields are of dazzling green color. The surrounding villages are populated by hospitable
and smiling people. After a turbulent twentieth century, Vietnam reunified itself and is
today turned towards growth and modernity.
Our plane ride was striking: in 14h we crossed from Asia to Paris and in 10h from Paris to
South Africa. Thats what we had driven in 14 months with Pavan and what well been
driving within the next 10 months. Conclusion: 1h by plane = 1 month by car ! After our
stopover in Paris with Mathilde's parents, here we are in Africa.
Our arrival in Durban has been very tumultuous: big port surcharges, heavy red tape, Pavan
burglarized, logistical problems (gas, battery, counters). Fortunately, we find a country
we like a lot already: very wide Ocean beaches, European-style food in the
supermarkets, friendly and very curious people (Johnny and Gabriella: thank you for
your welcoming!), game reserves full of animals (Hluhluwe, Mkhuze). Were also
making our first steps in discovering the South African history of the last two centuries
(Boers, English, Zulus, Indians, origins of the apartheid).
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Travelling on mini ferries by scooter.
Having our Pavan burglarized.
Going on safari in our own car with rhinos,

giraffes, buffaloes, hippos, monkeys,
antelopes, zebras, wild pigs, etc.
Passing across the Lesotho border walking

in the Sani Pass (20km, 3000m altitude, 6h).
Making barbecues with great meat and red

wine.
CURRENT MOOD : After a month being out of the van and logistical concerns,
were back on our cruise speed. Well enjoy it intensively before a 2-month break in
August (France) and September (Namibia).
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho.
COMING : Namibia, France, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania, Rwanda, Congo
(maybe), Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Europe.
Singapour
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
1.Ho Chi Minh

(VI)
2.Mekong delta
(VI)
3.Umdloti (SA)
4.Hluhluwe
Mkhuze (SA)
5.Sani Pass (SA)
4
2
Vietnam
South Africa

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: July 29th 2015 (458th day)
Location: De Doorns, South Africa
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
South Africa has kept seducing us during the whole month. In Kokstad, Floris and Roben
have introduced us to the incredible panel of South African shooters, so funny!
The sea shores are wonderful: in Bulungula we have discovered the daily work of women
from a local tribe, and Antoine also found out that horse riding is a sport he cant
practice!; in Coffee Bay, we had incredible meals with lobsters and fresh fish, and
splendid views: ocean, dolphins and whales. During the Otter Trail, a five-day hiking
trail in autonomy, we saw genets, gorgeous birds and flowers, and otters while they
were fishing. The coast around Cape Town is just as beautiful. Whales in Hermanus
did not show up, but the penguins at Boulders Beach have charmed us!
We have also crossed more arid landscapes inland (Valley of Desolation) and flirted with
majestic elephants in the Addo national park. We discovered pretty little towns with
architecture from the 19th century: Graaff Reinet, Stellenbosch, Franschoek. The artistic
activity in Grahamstown during its annual arts festival has amazed us. Attending a
World surfing contest (JBay open) was interesting. We liked very much Cape Town
with its pretty colored houses, its waterfront and nightlife. We are now enjoying the
wine route before driving right to Windhoek (4 days - 2000 km).
A big thank you to all our friends, especially Floris, Roben, Francy, Awie, Hanly and all the
Erasmus family, Terrence and Lili, Antoinette and Cornelius, Dominique, Elmaret and
Johan. We hope to be able to welcome you one day in France in return.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Eating lobsters at 0,70 euros / piece
Laughing at a South African comedy show
Watching rugby games in pubs
Be welcomed with open arms by the people
Getting surrounded by 2 huge elephants
Hiking 5 days autonomously, sleeping in huts

on wild beaches and watching otters fishing
CURRENT MOOD : We relaxed, lived right in the moment and enjoyed sharing
nice moments with the great people we have met on the way. It's now time to head
north, straight to Namibia: 2000km ahead!
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho.
COMING : Namibia, France, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania, Rwanda, Congo
(maybe), Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
1.Coffee bay
(Wild coast)
2.Art fest in
Grahamstown
3.Graff-Reinet and
Karoo
4.Otter Trail
5.Cape Town
6.Wine route
3
1
2
5
6
4

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: August 26th 2015 (486th day)
Location: Aix-en-Provence, France
PHOTOS
NEWS
Since the wine route in South Africa, we headed North West. The weather being quite bad, we
havent stayed long. As soon as we had crossed the border, an immediate heat wave
reached us in the Namibian desert. We stopped in the Fish River Canyon, which was a
great opportunity to stretch our legs after so many kilometers: wild barbecue and
morning hike during which we saw wild zebras and antelope. Our stop in
Keetmanshoop, supposed to be very brief, got seriously extended thanks to the
hospitality of Ingo and his friends. In Windhoek, we finalised the last preparations for
the departure and spent the evening with Kenlis and Olger, who kindly accepted to
keep Pavan safe during our absence.
When we arrived in France, we had to handle a few administrative issues in Paris and had a
great time with some friends. Then our 3-week intensive programme throughout
France begun : Paris, Chartres, Olron, Madrid, Lantosque, Orres, Aix-en-Provence,
Pourrires La Ciotat, Bandol, etc. We even had to split at some point and not be
together (which had not occurred over the last 450 days !).
We would like to thank our family and friends for the good moments we have shared
together and for your efforts to welcome us! We were happy that we got fresh news
from you, happy to visit our beautiful France under a nice August sun, to discover your
children, etc. As we had predicted in advance, going back to France also has raised a
few wonders for us concerning the after trip.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Skip from rain in South Africa back to

heat in Namibia;
Leave Pavan for 1.5 month;
Spend time with our relatives and

enjoy good French cuisine;
Organise the bachelorette party of a

friend in Madrid;
Discover our friends kids.
CURRENT MOOD : Weve updated the news about our friends and family. Our
last French step is still ahead: the wedding of our friends in Paris. And then, were
heading to Namibia for a guided tour with family, looking forwards to discover this
country about which weve heard so much.
COUNTRIES VISITED :
Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Turkmenistan,

Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea, Japan, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia,
Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho, Namibia, France.
COMING : Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania, Rwanda, Congo (maybe),
Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
1.Fish River Canyon

(Nam)
2.Paris (FR)
3.Chartres (FR)
4.Olron (FR)
5.Madrid (ES)
6.Aix-en-Provence (FR)
7.Les Orres (FR)
8.Lantosque (FR)
9.La Ciotat (FR)
7
8
6
9

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: September 21st 2015 (512th day)
Location: Windhoek, Namibia
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
After the wonderful wedding of our friends Aurlie and Jonathan, in the East of Paris, we
flew back to Namibia where we started a 3-week family tour with Alain, Monique,
Sandrine, Anne and Yann, laeving again Pavan for a rest. We drove 4200 km and visited
some of the most beautiful sites: Etosha Park, Kaokoland, Epupa falls, Swakopmund,
Namib Desert and Sosusvle. Split into two 4-wheel drives, we went wild camping in
very remote and beautiful places and slept in fantastic lodges. We also went riding
on sand dunes with 4-wheel drives in a Paris-Dakar rally style; we flew over the Namib
desert; we went hiking in sublime places and learned a lot about the fauna and flora.
Examples: the scorpion is 450M years old, the desert elephant can live three days
without drinking water whereas the savannah one needs to drink 120L per day, a
mother sea lion can recognize the voice of its puppy among thousands, an acacia tree
may be 2000 years old, desert euphorbias (which look like trees, but are not trees!) can
store water in their leaves, the endemic plant Welwitschia can as well.
Namibia is one of the oldest lands on Earth. The Bushmen, a population of hunter-gatherers,
were the first inhabitants. Namibia is the 2nd least populated country in the world and
is made of arid plains and rugged landscapes. Its rich and diversified geology has been
a source of external envy (uranium, diamonds, etc.). The population is essentially
black, among which can be found the stunning Himba and Herero tribes. As for the
white population, it is either of German origin (Namibia was a German colony in the
early 19thc) or Afrikaans (used to be a South African Protectorate).
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Jokes via our radio between our two cars;
Impressive approach of elephants near the vehicle;
Refreshing jumps into swimming pools and great

sleeps in superb lodges;
Flying over the Namib desert;
Morning hiking up the red-sand dune Big Daddy

in Sosusvle.
CURRENT MOOD : We are slightly sad and tired after a very intensive month and
a half with our relatives, but happy to find our home on wheels Pavan back and to
start again our adventure.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho, Namibia, FR
COMING : Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania, Rwanda, Congo (maybe), Uganda, Kenya,
Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
2
3
1
Departure
Arrival
1.Etosha park (NA)

2.Epupa falls (NA)
3.Opuwo (NA)
4.Swakopmund (NA)
5.Sosusvle (NA)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: October 28th 2015 (549th day)
Location: Livingstone, Zambia
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
After a 5-day stop resting at Steve, George, James and Lisys horse and game farm, we headed
towards the Caprivi. Visiting Botswana and Zimbabwe has been competing our
panorama of Southern Africa. If Botswana is considered as the regional exception
(among the fastest growth rates in the world), Zimbabwe is on the contrary in a fast
descending economic slope. The first is politically stable and has exploited its rich
diamond mines to develop infrastructure, education and health, although at the
expense of the San nomadic communities. Zimbabwe has had a bad image in the
international press, mainly due to its President Mugabe. Despite this, we found in
Zimbabwe lovely people, who have decided to live with what they have rather than
engage into a civil war.
In Botswana, we loved our canoe trip (mokoro) in the Okavango Delta. The proximity with
the wild animals in this country is unbelievable. Bush campsites in the Chobe and
Moremi parks are visited daily by hyenas, elephants, lions... Our week with our
sponsors Janet and Paul in their 4WD allowed us to visit inaccessible areas for Pavan
(sand). In Maun, the kindness of Kevin and Nic was moving. In Zimbabwe, we
enjoyed Matopos: huge scenic rocks interspersed among nicely decorated huts.
Bulawayo is a pleasant and green city. The Hwange National Park impressed us:
elephants, lions, leopard. We thank David and Nadine for their welcoming in their
exclusive campsites. Pavan was nearly stuck in a riverbed but we managed to get it out,
that was close! Finally, rafting on the Zambezi was legendary, and so were the
magnificent Victoria Falls.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Intimate conversation with an elephant coming for

a surprise visit at breakfast (scary!) ;
Stuck in a dry riverbed with

surrounding sounds: lion rattle ;
Nights in bush camps in national parks with many

visitors near the tent ;
Mokoro trip in the Okavango Delta ;
Rafting on the Zambezi river down the Vic Falls.
disturbing
CURRENT MOOD : The road condition will sometimes put us in difficult

situations : we will take our time and accept to be unable to visit everything. We were
lazy to prepare the newsletter this month since it gets harder to find wifi spots ... ! ;-)
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho, Namibia, France, Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Zambia.
COMING : Malawi, Mozambique?, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral?,
Jorda?, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
8
Departure
Arrival
3
2
7
6
4
5
1.Seronga Okavango
delta (BO)
2.Moremi park (BO)
3.Chobe park (BO)
4.Bulawayo (ZI)
5.Matobos park (ZI)
6.Hwange (ZI)
7.Rafting Zambezi (ZI)
8.Vic falls (ZI)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: November 24th 2015 (576th day)

Location: South Luangwa, Zambia
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
We've spent the whole month in Zambia. This country will not remain in our top favorite list
since landscapes were not breathtaking. But it's a place where we've liked hanging
around. It's relaxed, Zambians are friendly and life is not very expensive for tourists.
Previously known as Northern Rhodesia, Zambia became independent before the Southern
Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) conducted by Kenneth Kaunda. Its soils are rich in minerals,
especially in copper, the country is very large and the many different ethnic groups live
peacefully together.
From Livingstone, we went to visit the Kafue National Park. Apart from the epic crossing of
the river by a so called ferry and a hunting scene (crocodiles devouring an antelope),
we found little wildlife but many tsetse flies. Due to its central location, we gravitated
around Lusaka where we met nice people and had very pleasant evenings. We also
handled some logistics (visa, new computer, new tires). Our stay at the Kariba lake was
short because of the burning humidy there which is hard to bear. In Kassanga, we
witnessed the spectacle of millions of fruit-eating bats who migrate during this season.
We enjoyed a lot the South Luangwa National Park and had the chance to see a
leopard on a river edge. The park is green and wildlife is abundant, especially hippos.
We're now going to pass through Chipata as a border step to Malawi.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS:
Regularly join our friends David and Nadine
See a leopard in South Luangwa
Cross the Kafue River by ferry
Party in Lusaka
Sympathize with French paratroopers
CURRENT MOOD : After a long hesitatation between Malawi and Mozambique

we've decided: we will visit both! We are very zen and relaxed. We do not know what
to expect from the coming rainy season and its possible consequences on the roads.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea, Japan, Singapore, Thailand,
Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho, Namibia, France, Botswana,
Zimbabwe, Zambia.
COMING : Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral?,
Jorda?, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
1. Lac Itezhi-Tezhi (ZA)

2. Kafue river (ZA)
3. Kasanga chauve-souris (ZA)
4. South Luangwa (ZA)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: December 22nd2015 (604th day)
Location: Mulanje, Malawi
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
Weve spent the last month in Malawi, country of long shape in Southern Africa, with approx
15 million people, bathed by Lake Malawi also called Nyasa, the third largest lake in
Africa. The main ethnic groups are the Chewa, Ngoni and Yao. The Gule Wankulu,
Chewa traditional dances with significant symbolic masks present at every major life
ritual in the villages is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage. The country is
primarily agricultural (mostly maize), crowded and suffers from deforestation.
We spent our first night in Malawi in a village, intensive experience (surrounded closely by
many pairs of eyes, an African classic that can be a constraint when living in a van). In
Lilongwe, weve been quick not a very attractive city. We have greatly enjoyed Lake
Malawi and its beautiful beaches. Our visit and stay at the Catholic mission in Mua
enabled us to get more familiar with the Chewa culture, thanks to Father Boucher, who
dedicated his life to the local arts and cultures.
We have appreciated the hilly and green area of Zomba. We met precious villagers who
invited us in their home to cook and try the nsima (national dish made with corn flour).
Torrential rains began to encircle us but are also bringing a pleasant freshness.
In Blantyre, counting a few pretty historical buildings and an attractive downtown, was the
last big town we visited before we head to the under-developed Northern
Mozambique, so we did some food shopping. We were driving to the border to cross to
Mozambique when we met Barbara and Daniel who have been hosting us in their
lovely home at the foot of the magnificent Mount Mulanje for the last three days.
Tomorrow, we will visit one of the large tea plantations of the region.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Dancing with the Mua troupe;
Birthday in a good Italian restaurant;
Swimming in the crystal clear water of Lake

Malawi;
Failed attempt to teach the rules of the

French kids game 123 sun in a village to fifty
children;
Several nights in a good bed and a real

room.
CURRENT MOOD : After a small motivation drop, due to some accumulated

tiredness, less spontaneous amazement and relatively superficial exchanges with
locals, were plainly back on the road thanks to great people weve met.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Zambia, Malawi.
COMING : Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral?, Jordan?,
Libanon?, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
3
2
1.Senga beach (ML)

2.Mua mission (ML)
3.Cap McClear (ML)
4.Zomba (ML)
5.Mulanje (ML)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: January 27th2015 (640th day)
Location: Mwanza, Tanzania
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
Over the past month, we have visited a part of Mozambique, huge country that we have only
been able to visit on the main roads (otherwise dirt roads are bad due to the rainy
season) and we have crossed a large part of Tanzania.
Mozambique seemed more dynamic than Malawi. After a long civil war, the country appears
to be moving forward. Traces of the past presence of Persians, Arabs and Europeans in
old trading cities on the coastline highlight the fact that these settlers stood sheltered on
from the most dangerous land on the coast to exploit resources (gold and slaves). In
Mozambique, we have visited a tea factory in Gurue. We have enjoyed the relaxed
atmosphere in Ilha de Mozambique, where we spent New Years Eve. The beaches
and crystal clear waters are stunning (Chocas!). And we have loved eating seafood
(crabs, shrimps, fish, sea urchins). We were welcomed with open arms by Alan, Lee
and Juan from Moz Environment. Crossing to Tanzania was a bit stressful (bad dirt
roads, rain).
Tanzania is clearly a more developed country. The political regime is more stable and
elections are free. The country has not suffered from civil war and is a refuge for many
people fleeing from neighboring countries. Julius Nyereres role, after the countrys
independence, has undoubtedly contributed to forging a strong national identity.
From Malawi, we feel tired. Heat, stress related to road condition, and the lack of interaction
with the locals, while being in an intense promiscuity with them, is a weight for us. We
must redouble our efforts to accept differences and remain open. We are currently in
Mwanza visiting friends from Bulgaria - Mark, Penny and their children where we
are catching our breath and seeking inspiration.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Timeless walks in the old colonial trading

Islands, among ruins, historic buildings and
crystal clear water;
Exotic accents in Portuguese in Mozambique;
Seafood tasting of all kinds;
Football game for Antoine in Mwanza;
Cooler weather in Tanzania and therefore

better sleeping at nights.
CURRENT MOOD : A little tired, we are recovering from minor injuries and are in
a thinking process to find our second inspiration wind for the rest of our crossing of
Africa, based on the idea of greater tolerance and understanding of differences.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania.
COMING : Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral?, Jordan?, Libanon?, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
5
1.Ilha de Mozambique (MOZ)

2.Chocas (MOZ)
3.Ruvula beach (TAN)
4.Kilwa Kisawani (TAN)
5.Mikumi national park
(TAN)
4
3
2
1

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: February 22nd, 2016 (666th day)
Location: Mwanza, Tanzania
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
During the past month, we have fully enjoyed the sedentary life. Weve spent three weeks at
our friends the O'Sullivan: Penny, Mark and their children Nana, Caleb and Cedar.
This was our longest stop since the beginning of the adventure. We have refilled
batteries with family life, good food, sports and a bedroom with a bathroom. The
O'Sullivans are a lovely family. Their three children are curious, intelligent and calm.
And the parents are funny, welcoming and spiritual.
After this stop, we are finally ready to hit the road again and enjoy at 100% the adventures
that await us in this last trip segment. Thanks to discussions, readings and reflections,
we now better understand the cultural differences, especially in the way people relate
to one another generally in Africa, which also involves material interests. The African
solidarity model leans on mutual dependence between people. This micro-level system
supersedes the absence of macro institutional system (health, banking, education). Each
person one encounters can potentially be a life insurance (financial, material, outputs)
to include in their social network.
During a one-week trip to Kigoma, we still have driven Pavan as well as experienced local
transportation: a 18h train journey to do 400km; a 6h bus journey, on the same itinerary
(3 time faster but 3 times more stressful). The Tanganyika lake is sublime: crystal clear
water, colorful little fish, fishermen boats, surrounded by mountains. The Jacobsen
guesthouse / camping is a paradise. And despite the logistical obstacles, we were able
to go by the boat to visit the chimpanzees in their protected forest in the Gombe
National Park.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Thematic nights at the O'Sullivans: Bulgarian

dinner, Mexican evening. Big success!
Living with chimpanzees for one hour in a

rainforest.
Experience the slow and relaxing pace of life

on an African train.
Eat ugali (kind of thick mashed maize) in a

village with Ilan in the very local mode.
CURRENT MOOD : We are ready to hit the road again. Pavan has been filled with
water and weve be filled with energy . Lets head to Rwanda !
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania.
COMING : Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral?, Jordan?, Libanon?, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
1 2
Arrival
1.Corner bar Mwanza!(TAN)

2.At the OSullivans (TAN)
3.Tabora (TAN)
4.Kigoma Jacobsen (TAN)
5.Gombe national park (TAN)
5
3
4

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: March 22nd, 2016 (695th day)
Location: Fort Portal, Uganda
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
This month, we have discovered Rwanda. This is a French-speaking country in which we
have enjoyed driving on the right side! The population density is extremely high,
resulting in a significant pressure on the territory, exploited nearly entirely. Rwanda
has made us dizzy with its swinging roads: its nickname of "land of a thousand hills
suits it perfectly. Very organized, it is a clean country (plastic bags are prohibited), in
which the tough hand of President Kagame and the important police and military
presence helped reunite the nation and put aside the horrors experienced during the
1994 genocide. The genocide museum in Kigali is striking.
In Gisenyi, we saw Ania, Kevin and their daughter Malina and had the privilege to stay in
their home with a beautiful terrace over Lake Kivu.
Franoise and Alain surprised us by joining us to travel the country in Pavan: lunches side by
side the 4 of us in the car, magnificent volcanoes in Musanze, Lake Kivu and its nice
Inzu lodge, Kibuye hills, Nyungwe primates, and a combo of the best pizza place and
the best butchery in Kigali (Thanks Roland!).
We also did entered the Democratic Republic of Congo to visit the Nyiragongo volcano. Its
bubbling lava crater greatly impressed us. Goma, adjacent town to the volcano, is
rather poor and unstable, with a strong presence of international NGOs and UN
peacekeepers. We were warmly welcomed by the ICRC (International Committee of the
Red Cross), especially by Christopher and Marco.
We are now in Uganda, where we are still discovering many lakes and where we have just
passed the Equator!
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Be in the boat of fishermen who are

paddling and loudly singing;
Spend a night on the Nyiragongo

crater in the DRC;
Be in the midst of a horde of hundreds

of black and white wild colobus
monkeys;
Bike up and down the hills of Kibuye.
CURRENT MOOD : We are planning the rest of our journey up through Africa
and thinking more about the after-travel period, but in a relaxed way and while
thoroughly enjoying our everyday adventure and bananas...
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda.
COMING : Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Isral, Jordan, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
Arrival
1.Nyiragongo volcano (RDC)

2.Musanze (RW)
3.Gisenyi (RW)
4.Nuyngwe park (RW)
5.Queen Elisabeth (UG)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: April 24th, 2016 (728th day)
Location: Lalibela, Ethiopia
PHOTOS
VIDEO
NEWS
To start with, we had had the surprise visit of Mathilde's parents, Elise and Francois, for a
week together in Uganda. We have enjoyed the diversity of landscapes in this country
and its friendly population. In Jinja, we drove around the banks of the Nile sources in
motorbikes. The Murchison national park, although very far in the North, was worth
the detour since we had the chance to see lions. We experienced having being four
people sleeping in Pavan for a wild camp night. It was quite athletic but very funny!
After Kampala, we speeded up the pace. We spent two weeks in Kenya (our maximum
allowed time was two weeks due to the fact we had to send our car customs carnet for
renewal to France, thanks Manu, Anne and Ingrid!). We have been surprised by the
forests and freshness in altitude in the west of the country. We had an adventurous nice
cycling experience in Hells Gate National Park in Naivasha. And, Nairobi was far from
being as bad as we feared, despite an attempt by two fake policemen to scam us in the
street. The road straight North to Ethiopia has allowed us to discover the impressive
Samburu people with pearl ornaments and cross the first arid area since Namibia.
We have now been in Ethiopia for ten days. Ethiopia is a striking country due to its rich
history (the only African country which has never been colonized) and culture (coffee,
having fun with friends), as well as its social and religious diversity. We liked the
atmosphere in Addis Ababa where we felt safe. We have been found back Lada cars
since Ethiopia has been communist for 15 years. We must regularly slalom between
huge herds of cattle on the road (cows, sheep, goats, camels).
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Beeing 4 people for the night in Pavan;
Visit artisans' workshops (blown glass

and jewelry) in Nairobi;
Discover the Samburu

Northern Kenya;
Attend a turbulent football match in

the main stadium in Addis;
Visit the weekly cattle market in

Lalibela.
tribe
in
CURRENT MOOD : We feel at the crossroads between Black Africa and Northern
Africa and we are very happy to discover new horizons.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia.
COMING : Sudan, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Europe.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
5
Arrival
1.Murchison falls (UG)

2.Naivasha lake (KN)
3.North Kenya for the
desert and tribes (KN)
4.Awassa (ET)
5.Addis Abeba (ET)
6.Lalibela (ET)

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: May 24th, 2016 (758th day)
Location: Nuweiba, Egypt
PHOTOS
NEWS
The month has been busy. The decision to go back to France by mid-June has made us speed
up the pace. In Ethiopia, weve been amazed by the closing ceremony of the Orthodox
Easter in Lalibela. We visited Julien and Edhi in Mekele and chose to go to the Danakil
region to see the Erta Ale volcano and the multicolored island of Dallol. The trip was
physical but beautiful. Back in Mekele, we have witnessed the dance shoulder, typical
from the Tigray region. Finally, we drove up North in the loop through the impressive
canyons after Axum, on the border of the Simien mountains and to Gondar.
In Sudan, huge and very arid country, Nile banks excepted, we found a very warm and
welcoming population! From the markets of Al-Qadarif on, we enjoyed fresh bread,
grilled meat and good fruits and vegetables. Sudan has isolated treasures such as the
Meroe and Karima pyramids in the desert. We took full advantage of loneliness under
the starry sky in our wild camping nights.
The border crossing from Sudan to Egypt has been the toughest of our adventure: 24 hours at
the border. Fortunately, we got adopted by truck drives from all countries. We were a
bit concerned about the security / military conditions in Egypt, but we have had a great
time. Visiting 3,000-year sites is an experience to live: Abu Simbel, Edfu, Karnak, the
Valley of the Kings. We found great places to stay that wed love to visit again (the Nile
Compound in Luxor and the Barracuda Camp in Nuweiba). We enjoyed the fish: both
in snorkeling and in our plates!
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Spend a night tired without being able to

sleep under a heavy rain with no shelter
next to a volcano;
Make the decision to go back to France;
Shower in open air under the stars;
Become friends with nice Iraki and

Syrian truck drivers;
Have a warm contact again with local

people and be invited for tea.
CURRENT MOOD : Relieved to have crossed Egypt and Sinai without trouble,
and after a heavy driving session, we are having a short break by the Red sea, to close
to the African chapter and before the last travel piece.
COUNTRIES VISITED :

Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan,
Egypt.
COMING : Israel, Italy, France.
MAP - ITINERARY :
7
Departure
Arrival
1.Danakil / Dalol (ET)

2.Road close to the Simien (ET)
3.Meroe pyramides (SU)
4.Sudanese desert (SU)
5.Edfu (EG)
6.Luxor (EG)
7.Nuweiba (EG)
6
5
4
3

IN A NUTSHELL :
Date: June 22nd, 2016 (787th day)
Location: Paris, France
PHOTOS
NEWS
Entering Israel was a challenge. We had to empty entirely Pavan so that every item would be
analyzed in an X-ray machine. It took us 4 hours of work. Israel's landscapes are
diversified: the Judean desert in the South is ultra dry, while the North is rather similar
to Provence, and the coastline is swept by a fresh Mediterranean breeze. In Eilhat we
discovered an armada of campers along the coast. Masada has plunged us into history:
the people of the city besieged by the Romans preferred to commit suicide than fall into
slavery. Bathing in the Dead Sea is an unforgettable sensation: we knew we would be
able float in a sitting position, but experiencing it was great.
Our Israeli friends, Merav and Eyal, funny and generous, have also been our volunteer
guides! After a night in the family kibbutz, we visited Jerusalem, in total immersion in
the problematic issues of the Middle East: Old City divided into 4 districts, St
Sepulchre, the Wailing Wall, Via Dolorosa. The visit of Mea Shearim, ultra-orthodox
neighborhood, during Shabbat was breathtaking. We enjoyed the coast (Haifa, Bahai
gardens, Akko) and the North (Golan, Kammon). Our friend Ilan made us swim in the
mythical Sea of Galilee and discover his house and Tiberias.
The 4-day crossing by cargo of the Mediterranean sea (Ashdod to Naples) was relaxing. We
had a nice cabin, good food and visited the engine room and the navigation station.
Once in France, we briefly visited our friends and family. Pavan is parked in Bleury
until further notice and Antoine has started his new job on Monday.
FUNNY PICTURE

INTENSIVE MOMENTS :
Getting angry in the harbor of Ashdod with

incompetent shipping agents;
Camping with friends 50km away from

Damascus;
Lying on a lounge chair on the deck of a

sailing ship in the open sea under the starry
sky;
Crossing the French border;
Parking Pavan and seeing Antoine go to the

office for his first day of work.
CURRENT MOOD : We will need time to realize the end of this great adventure
and to find a proper balance in our new sedentary life.
43 COUNTRIES VISITED :

Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, South Korea, Japan, Singapore, Thailand,
Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, South Africa, Lesotho, Namibia, France, Botswana,
Zimbabwe, Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Uganda, Kenya,
Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt, Israel, Italy, France.
MAP - ITINERARY :
Departure
FINAL DESTINATION
6
5
1.Massada (IS)
2.Dead sea (IS)
3.Jerusalem (IS)
4.Golan (IS)
5.Aix en Provence!!! (FR)
6.Dole (FR)
3
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Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

A barbecue shared with a familly of friends

Local-style hair cuts in Greece for Mathilde

A nice trekk to a 3000m summit and an

COUNTRIES VISITED : Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey

MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

An evening with an Armenian family (at Soss),

Several days spent on the Lake Bazaleti shore,

Shopping at Carrefour (Tbilissi) followed by a

The toast ceremony with local wine in Georgia:

COUNTRIES VISITED : Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan

MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

The friendship built with our host family in Rasht

The interview we had to pass with mullahs

The countless heat waves, sweat drops we felt, and

Sharing meals on carpets (big tables!) or sleeping on

Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran,

COMING : Tajikistan, Kirghizstan,

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

7h spent in Dushanbe to fix a mistake done by the

Very tiring search for diesel all across the country in

Feeling of loneliness when trying to go through

Kyrgyz horse festival in Tajikistan.

Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran,

MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter

1.Moynaq Aral (UZ)

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Hiking in the frozen valley in Ala Archa

A week spent at Anne-Renaud-Raphal-Sarahs.

Abandoned sites of Kurchatov, former Russian

Stuck in the mod in Russia: 3h of work to get out!

Discovery of the Siberian culture with Vassili in

CURRENT MOOD : Temperatures have fallen from 35 to under 0 (snow) in a week,

Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran,

MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter

1.Ala Archa parc (KIR)

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Swim in the freezing water of Lake Baikal

Nightlife in Vladivostok and Seoul

Saunas both in the Russian and Korean way

Korean seafood (spectacular octopus soup)

Antoines phone theft and restitution 24h later

Yearly party of retired people and meeting with

Lotte World amusement park in Seoul

Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran,

MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Grand Voyage Mathilde et Antoine

Surprise arrival of Jeanne and Romain in Busan

Macoli evening (drink from fermented wheat)

Gas provision search in Daegu with Jino and later

Sumo contest in Fukuoka;

Life and work in Minamata on a voluntary site.

Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran,

MAP - ITINERARY : since the last newsletter