Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
14.Drawing: The rayon filaments are stretched, known as drawing, to straighten out the fibers
15.Washing: The fibers are then washed to remove any residual chemicals
16.Cutting: If filament fibers are desired the process ends here. The filaments are cut down
when producing staple fibers[1]
High wet modulus rayon (HWM) is a modified version of viscose that has a greater strength when
wet. It also has the ability to be mercerized like cotton. HWM rayons are also known as "polynosic".
Polynosic fibers are dimensionally stable and do not shrink or get pulled out of shape when wet like
many rayons. They are also wear resistant and strong while maintaining a soft, silky feel. They are
sometimes identified by the trade name Modal.[9]
High-tenacity rayon is another modified version of viscose that has almost twice the strength of
HWM. This type of rayon is typically used for industrial purposes such as tire cord. [9]
Cuprammonium rayon has properties similar to viscose but during production, the cellulose is
combined with copper and ammonia (Schweizer's reagent). Due to the environmental effects of this
production method, cuprammonium rayon is no longer produced in the United States.[9]
To make rayon, sheets of purified cellulose are steeped in caustic soda, dried, shredded into crumbs, and then
aged in metal containers for 2 to 3 days. The temperature and humidity in the metal containers are carefully
controlled.
After ageing, the crumbs are combined and churned with liquid carbon disulfide, which turns the mix into
orange-colored crumbs known as sodium cellulose xanthate. The cellulose xanthate is bathed in caustic soda,
resulting in a viscose solution that looks and feels much like honey.
While there are many variations in the manufacturing process that exploit the versatility
of the fiber, the following is a description of the procedure that is used in making regular
or viscose rayon.
Regardless of whether wood pulp or cotton linters are used, the basic raw material for
making rayon must be processed in order to extract and purify the cellulose. The
resulting sheets of white, purified cellulose are then treated to form regenerated
cellulose filaments. In turn, these filaments are spun into yarns and eventually made into
the desired fabric.
2 After ageing, the crumbs are combined and churned with liquid carbon
disulfide, which turns the mix into orange-colored crumbs known as sodium
cellulose xanthate. The cellulose xanthate is bathed in caustic soda, resulting in a
viscose solution that looks and feels much like honey. Any dyes or delusterants in
the design are then added. The syrupy solution is filtered for impurities and
stored in vats to age, this time between 4 and 5 days.
Producing filaments
3 The viscose solution is next turned into strings of fibers. This is done by forcing
the liquid through a spinneret, which works like a shower-head, into an acid bath.
If staple fiber is to be produced, a large spinneret with large holes is used. If
filament fiber is being produced, then a spinneret with smaller holes is used. In
the acid bath, the acid coagulates and solidifies the filaments, now known as
regenerated cellulose filaments.
Spinning
4 After being bathed in acid, the filaments are ready to be spun into yarn.
Depending on the type of yarn desired, several spinning methods can be used,
including Pot Spinning, Spool Spinning, and Continuous Spinning. In Pot
Spinning, the filaments are first stretched under controlled tension onto a series
of offsetting rollers called godet wheels. This stretching reduces the diameter of
the filaments and makes them more uniform in size, and it also gives the
filaments more strength. The filaments are then put into a rapidly spinning
cylinder called a Topham Box, resulting in a cake-like strings that stick to the
sides of the Topham Box. The strings are then washed, bleached, rinsed, dried,
and wound on cones or spools.
Spool Spinning is very similar to Pot Spinning. The filaments are passed through
rollers and wound on spools, where they are washed, bleached, rinsed, dried,
and wound again on spools or cones.
In Continuous Spinning, the filaments are washed, bleached, dried, twisted, and
wound at the same time that they are stretched over godet wheels.
5 Once the fibers are sufficiently cured, they are ready for post-treatment
chemicals and the various weaving processes necessary to produce the fabric.
The resulting fabric can then be given any of a number of finishing treatments.
These include calendaring, to control smoothness; fire resistance; pre-shrinking;
water resistance; andwrinkle resistance.
are synthetic fibers made from a polymer (polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular
weight of ~100,000, about 1900 monomer units. To be called acrylic in the U.S, the
polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer. Typical comonomers are vinyl
acetate or methyl acrylate. The Dupont Corporation created the first acrylic fibers in
1941 and trademarked them under the name "Orlon".
Raw Material
Acrilonitrile is the main main raw material for the manufacture of acrylic fibres. It is made
by different methods. In one commercial method, hydrogen cyanide is treated with
acetylene:
1st Method
Acetylene + Hydrogen cyanide --> Acrilonitrile
2nd Method
Ethylene--Air Oxidation--> Ethylene oxide + HCN--> Ethylene cyanahydrin--Dehydration
at 300 deg C (catalyst)--> Acrylonitrile
Polymerization in solution
2.
3.
Wet spinning
4.
Acrylic has a warm and dry hand like wool. Its density is 1.17 g/cc as compared
to 1.32 g/cc of wool. It is about 30% bulkier than wool. It has about 20% greater
insulating power than wool.
2.
3.
It has a tenacity of 5 gpd in dry state and 4-8 gpd in wet state.
4.
5.
It has a elastic recovery of 85% after 4% extension when the load is released
immediately.
6.
It has a good thermal stability. When exposed to temperatures above 175 deg C
for prolonged periods some discolouration takes place.
7.
Acrylic shrinks by about 1.5% when treated with boiling water for 30 min.
8.
It has a good resistance to mineral acids. The resistance to weak alkalies is fairly
good, while hot strong alkalies rapidly attack acrylic.
9.
10.
2.
3.
4.
Wash delicate items by hand in warm water. Static electricity may be reduced by
using a fabric softener in every third or fourth washing. Gently squeeze out water,
smooth or shake out garment and let dry on a non-rust hanger. (Sweaters,
however, should be dried flat.)
When machine washing, use warm water and add a fabric softener during the
final rinse cycle.
Machine dry at a low temperature setting. Remove garments from dryer as soon
as tumbling cycle is completed.
If ironing is required, use a moderately warm iron. (For specific instructions, refer
to garment's sewn-in care label.)
Polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from coal, air, water, and petroleum. Developed in a
20th-century laboratory, polyester fibers are formed from a chemical reaction between
an acid and alcohol. In this reaction, two or more molecules combine to make a large
molecule whose structure repeats throughout its length. Polyester fibers can form very
iong molecules that are very stable and strong.
Polyester is used in the manufacture of many products, including clothing, home
furnishings, industrial fabrics, computer and recording tapes, and electrical insulation.
Polyester has several advantages over traditional fabrics such as cotton. It does not
absorb moisture, but does absorb oil; this quality makes polyester the perfect fabric for
the application of water-, soil-, and fire-resistant finishes. Its low absorbency also makes
The Manufacturing
Process
Polyester is manufactured by one of several methods. The one used depends on the
form the finished polyester will take. The four basic forms are filament, staple, tow, and
fiberfill. In the filament form, each individual strand of polyester fiber is continuous in
length, producing smooth-surfaced fabrics. In staple form, filaments are cut to
short, predetermined lengths. In this form polyester is easier to blend with other fibers.
Tow is a form in which continuous filaments are drawn loosely together. Fiberfill is the
voluminous form used in the manufacture of quilts, pillows, and outerwear. The two
forms used most frequently are filament and staple.
1 To form polyester, dimethyl terephthalate is first reacted with ethylene glycol in the
presence of a catalyst at a temperature of 302-410F (150-210C).
Drying
3 After the polyester emerges from polymerization, the long molten ribbons are allowed
to cool until they become brittle. The material is cut into tiny chips and completely dried
to prevent irregularities in consistency.
Melt spinning
4 Polymer chips are melted at 500-518F (260-270C) to form a syrup-like solution. The
solution is put in a metal container called a spinneret and forced through its tiny holes,
which are usually round, but may be pentagonal or any other shape to produce special
fibers. The number of holes in the spinneret determines the size of the yarn, as the
emerging fibers are brought together to form a single strand.
5 At the spinning stage, other chemicals may be added to the solution to make the
resulting material flame retardant, antistatic, or easier to dye.
6 When polyester emerges from the spinneret, it is soft and easily elongated up to five
times its original length. The stretching forces the random polyester molecules to align in
a parallel formation. This increases the strength, tenacity, and resilience of the fiber. This
time, when the filaments dry, the fibers become solid and strong instead of brittle.
7 Drawn fibers may vary greatly in diameter and length, depending on the characteristics
desired of the finished material. Also, as the fibers are drawn, they may be textured or
twisted to create softer or duller fabrics.
Winding
8 After the polyester yarn is drawn, it is wound on large bobbins or flat-wound packages,
ready to be woven into material.
Drawing tow
1 Newly-formed tow is quickly cooled in cans that gather the thick fibers. Several lengths
of tow are gathered and then drawn on heated rollers to three or four times their original
length.
Crimping
2 Drawn tow is then fed into compression boxes, which force the fibers to fold like an
accordion, at a rate of 9-15 crimps per inch (3-6 per cm). This process helps the fiber
hold together during the later manufacturing stages.
Setting
3 After the tow is crimped, it is heated at 212-302F (100-150C) to completely dry the
fibers and set the crimp. Some of the crimp will unavoidably be pulled out of the fibers
during the following processes.
Cutting
4 Following heat setting, tow is cut into shorter lengths. Polyester that will be blended
with cotton is cut in 1.25-1.50 inch (3.2-3.8 cm) pieces; for rayon blends, 2 inch (5 cm)
lengths are cut. For heavier fabrics, such as carpet, polyester filaments are cut into 6
inch (15 cm) lengths.