Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
ico
4UiKiMi^<5^^lllir>
VOL.
11.
Corporation
http://www.archive.org/details/easternlifescene02wall<uoft
itTH^I^u
--
l^"^^
AND ROUMANIA
WALKER
By Mrs.
IN
TWO
VOLIBIES
VOL.
LONDON:
II.
787553.
LowDOic:
PRINTED BT
J. 8.
VIRTTTK
AWD
CITY RUAD.
CO., LIMITSD,
CONTENTS TO VOL.
I.FESTIVITIES
II.
m THE HAREM.
The
III.TAKING
Bridal
HOME THE
15
BRIDE.
Gifts
Homo
21
CONTENTS.
Ti
Bonus, of the Emperor Anastasius, of the Church of Vantocrator, of Boudroum Djami, of St. John Studius.
.
Massive Subterranean Remains. Fazli Pasha
29
Slavery
VI.A
37
A Snowstorm.^The
Breath of Sununer
VII.THE
........
77
Baleful Day.
VIII.BROUSSA
93
I.
85
vu
CONTENTS.
TCHEKIBGHE.
The View and the Passers-by. The Trysting Tree. A Sober Traveller. A "Wild Zebek. A Santon. Hawks and Storks. A Start. The Mouradiyeh
Suburb. The Mosque and
Surroundings. An Aggressive Umbrella. Rustic Fountains. The "Kief."
Bademli Bagtche. Yeni-Kaplidja Hammam. Cypresses. Tchekirghe. Eski -Kaplidja Hammam. The
Mountain Trout.
its
XL BROUSSA
KG.
141
SILK.
I.
Eastern Method of Rearing Silkworms. Difficulties of InSensitiveness of the Worm. Value of Mulvestigation.
Silk-rearing
Washing
the Silk
170
VIU
CONTENTS.
XII. BROUSSA SILK.
NO. n.
THE
SPINNING FACTOEIES.
XIII.THE
MINERAL BATH.
A Shifting Crowd. The
the Olive.
Destiny.
XV.ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES,
no.
Unequal
.
i.
.19
.
XVI.ROLTtfANIAN MONASTERIES.
ADAM,
NO. n.
JASSY.
From Bucharest to Berlad. Jewish Coachmen. A "Foolwoman." Monastery of Adam. The "Fundarik."
The Maica.
The
Maica
The Call
Staritza.
to Servace
299
CONTENTS.
IX
able
Homes
of the Maicas,
their Confectionery,
their
The New Monastic Regiilations. In the Staritza's Gkrden. The Procession and
the Prayers for Rain. A worthy Lady Superior. An
Early Drive. An inevitable "Difficulty." SoothingScenery. At Jassy Great Jewish Population. BeautiIndustry, and their Dress.
ful old
.216
XVII.ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
AND
NO. in.
The Monastery of Secu. The Parente
Arfimdrah. Hospitality. Foundation of Secu. Nestor
and Metrofana. Fortifications. The former importance
of the Monastery. The Refectory. "Mamaligu.'*
Start for Sikla.The Bullock Cart.Our Escort.
Parente Samuel. Armed Monks. Sylvan Glades. The
Forest. A Wild Mountain Track. Magnificent Scenery.
An uncomfortable Slope towards the Precipice. The
Monastery of Sikla. A Venerable Staritz. Origin of
the Chapel of St Theodora. A Peaceful Scene Parente
Samuel's Curls. A Movmtain Storm. Sohastria
Sfecu
8IKT.A
Charming Drive.
'2:i3
XVIII.ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO. IV.
DTmXjJf TOHAKLAn,
Environs.
THE
BIOTBTTZA.
The
Monastery of
tions.
COXTENTS.
XIX.IN CEETE.
NO.
CANEA AND
I.
ITS ENVIEONS.
XX. IN CRETE.
NO. n.
Church Mosques.
The
CANEA AND
ITS
ENVIEONS.
Kialepa
284
AND SCENERY.
I.
FESTIVITIES IN
THE HAREM.
Preparations
for the
Ceremonies.
At
This
is
Mussulman family
are
made
for it;
all relations,
friends,
and even
and
rejoicing,
and means
and
it is
to collect
neighbourhood
all
who can
by the occasion.
VOL.
II.
vehicle,
we
sober,
collision
felt
could
upset
us,
and
we jumped and
summit of a steep
hill.
Being accustomed
motion,
we had
method of
to this uneasy
seized
loco-
May
encampment the
;
where
ilex, myrtle,
garments
around Bebek
slopes
to
frame delicious
sponse
result.
at
be the entrance to
There
Pasha.
At length
man
to
no restill
no
hails us
The
*'
is
hill.
water.
He
We
must
furthermore
FESTIVITIES IN
vouchsafes to lounge out
some
after
THE HAREM.
and
to carry
So we go down a
sort
faint
find
ourselves
unknown woman
strange
white
active service
dress,
shouts a boisterous
flight of steps.
touched with
henna
*'
She
She
and
to
first arrival,
keep up the
spirits
of the
company
generally.
The
comes forward
and
women and
gayest dresses
girls in their
affectionate
welcome.
How
charming
gold-coloured
muslin
on
her
head
and
and
a coronet
tlie
Teze
Hanum
and some
meats and
coffee,
From behind
the curtain a
all
guests.
hum
the
many
of
little
selamlik.
voices
and
ladies
state
It is a magnificent construction
of rose-coloured satin
stiff
formed of wreaths of
of
many
lets,
and
;
satin pillows
above, a canopy
artificial flowers,
with feathers
and charms.
is
and
the coverlet
feather fan
is
amu-
leaning in one
and
little
fruit,
with grass
table
toys,
and
we
broideries, there is a
pany
we
is
divided
Here
women
all
the
transparent
muslin.
theatrical representation
decorated bed
is
has
It
the effect of
all
all enters
next, a
their station in
and instruments
of music.
on the
the
There
is
weep
hysterically,
the
and
nurses
Again a
Ethem Bey
then silence, a
is
He
places
in,
him on
another pause of
little
are
beys, gazing
beginning to
and
elder slaves
fierce
clang of the
carried rapidly in
Every one
shouts, the
women
cry
**
Mashallah
"
several times,
and
is
comes
in,
to attend
to
like a
upon them.
all sorts,
anything, in
goat
beys,
and
who
satins
short, that
may amuse
the three
silks
The children
them
a small
by
his contortions
There
is
the room
it.
On
a nearer view,
at length
many
mond
of the
A dia-
FESTIYITIES IN
THE HAREil.
as, in
days
all
is
who
the children
monies and
festivities of
a present in
money and
clothing.
It
may
be well
terrible
strain
a needlessly
numerous household.
women
more
are
warned
to
resume work,
once
stations be-
open-
They
are
managed
cleverly
enough by the Jewish mountebanks, who are undeniably the most degraded type of humanity that
can be met with here.
man
sits
tall,
villainous-looking
He
wears a fantastic
The
the
made
to lie
to
down, the
oflf
which
turned up,
them
manners
this
same
stick
satisfied
and
little
we made an attempt
to visit the
fast locked,
to return into
to entertain us
sunset,
which, on the ground, was spread a white cloth embroidered in colours, the guests sitting around on
it
must not be
so
middle of
to seat
it
with ease
more than
festive board.
consequently,
it is difficult
first
in order.
They paid us
that compliment.
a slender
ibrik "
*'
into
a soft
This serves
as
com-
Dipping our
was easy
and pistachio
nuts,
lamb
tortoise-
as
stuffed
with
rice,
It is a
high
festival dish,
difficult of access
with no
When
that
we should be allowed
We
But how
hesitate, reconnoitring.
table
open the
It is our part
"
10
SCEIS'EIIY.
action.
" Bou3^ou-
official
mistress of
roun
we grasp and
pons
The
my
shoulder
The lamb
energetically,
is
glass bangles,
;
the monkey-
grasps a shoulder.
dismembered in an
stuffing,
where
intended
so
The
use of one's
much
benevolently on
it
of
hospitality
is
prompt
to
my
readiest escape
own
mound
tion
Every
instant.
meat and
for wea-
difficulty is solved
roti
and decorum
Adam's forks
**
you
people.
The
kinds,
the
gala dishes
the usual
amount of
puffs, vegetables of
of
" baklawa,"
many
" tawouk
blancmange
'*
11
made
of boiled rice,
saffron,
and pomegra-
is also
an indispen-
it
Pillaw
by
followed
is
is
bowls of **khoshab"
(a
is
On
more presented
scented,
the water
and there
ported on
coffee,
is
for.
is
is
warmed and
slightly
the basin.
The
sible places
It is very
we
did our
we
They, poor
women
There
is
so
childish jugglery
12
was
jesters
them an amount
to
of entertainment
They put
we
dim background.
effort,
still
A strong
seats,
The
Karaghenz
is
a modified
At midnight we
to a
at
it
floor.
It
for fourteen
very well.
it
to
did
had been
from utter
mained above
difficult
make our
circumstances.
visit
We
stairs until
the pale
A few
weeks
THE HAREM.
FESTIVITIES IN
visit to
the harem of
13
and
vineyards
approach
gardens
enough
is rustic
hill,
the
of
amongst the
The
property.
A sound
of voices drew us
with
much
They were
cool
been
She seemed
to
know me
were
to
be found.
room so
The kiosk has
much improved
lately
and
well,
volubility
ladies
large fine-looking
scarlet blossoms.
where the
it, is
and roses
perfumed bower,
massive towers of
of heaving foliage
Mahomet
;
red wooden
The
world
trees.
and
on
14
the left-hand,
form of
All
strong
in.
relief,
majestic pine-tree.
so
is
calm and
we
homelike, as
sit
restful,
there a
so quiet,
little
;
and
soft,
the
the cypresses
bouring brow
ladies,
is
My friend,
nestled amongst
where the
Zeheira
of her necklace,
her
little
is
hanum smokes
a pensive
to
is
at
work
papa.
in gold
at
either
end as a present
for
her
II.
Djenaniah
is
to be
What
cassian slave.
posed
how put
of,
are no
services
married.
can
it
out of the
families
of
is
is
It
signifies a
a humble depen-
old-fashioned
those
only a Cir-
longer required
She
signify
is,
Mussulman
in her degree,
whom
the
through
tie of
life.
young
wife,
the
little
brought to disturb
its
of his
halaik
She
16
was trained
order
and
zerde pillaw
creamy
coffee,
Ramazan
the
distribution
careful
supervision
and labour.
She has
is
indeed
generally
during
many
years she
now
is
liberty
dead, and
woman
it
is
time
her paper of
Ibrahim Bey
and
wife
his
band
settled
and
Osman
Efiendi, the
imam
a claim to
face, a quiet
is
made
of a small
Djenaniah
employment, as hus-
finally
choice of
mosque
in one
Upper Bosphorus.
good looks
manner and
soft voice,
benefit
of the
talents, as well as
connection with
the bey's
family.
matter to be
left
pretty or otherwise
it is
17
is
not
of her features.
tage of
him
in this respect
there are
many chances
her intended
is
knows that
men
a small group of
The party
selamlik.
consists of the
imam
relatives,
two
with the
ceremony,
is
is
On
two
witnesses,
is
stationed behind
recited a prayer,
and the
me
as
"Do
VOL.
II.
'^
you, Djenaniah,
Koyoundjik
it.
bride's vakeel
slightly ajar,
There
is
Mahmoud Agha,
of
18
rustle
question
is
ceremony, for
"Yes"
it is
is
upon
and she
to yield con-
contract
The
before a faint
to
friends.
Djenaniah
is
no longer a halaik,
A messenger
Hanum.
remains at home.
receives a
that
handsome
The bearer
present.
of good
It is to
be remarked
the
who
tidings
in
the
if
her
position,
easily displaced.
Djenaniah
is
led back
to her
groom begin
the konak.
to arrive at
They are
by an old
by a group of women.
She holds a
silver tray
on
and a
She waves
threshold
hands of the
yashmaks and
19
and the incenso-bearer precedes them up the staircase. She pauses on the top step, and the guests bow
their heads towards the
posed to overcome
The
is
sup-
now
visitors are
makes
Some
direction.
bourines,
from
appearance
its
girls
the
opposite
bride,
who
as if she
As
this support.
must sink
to the
is
air
dressed in
is
be got together
all
on her finger
is
the family.
20
hem of their
kissing the
age
to
by
seated,
As
right, in
soon as she
is
first
time
row of
ladies,
offer
her
gifts of jewellery.
The tambourine
and
castanet
which
tlirown,
occasions
and noisy
vigorous
Refreshments are
is
dance
and
hands
players
exceedingly
dilBScult to
to
an end.
The
days,
sometimes
the delay
is
much
greater.
in infancy,
marriage
for
their
festivities.
Widows
young
but
girls are
taken to
No
Thursday afternoon.
their
new homes on
marriage
takes
place
Mussulman
year, Sefer
it is
considered unlucky.
III.
Djenaniah
now
called Hatiza
Hanum
no
new home
longer
was not
until
During
this
interval the
made.
(the
fruits, flowers,
and sweetmeats
as
yet unseen
be-
trothed.
On
bridal gift
made
its
more important
22
once into
tlie
inspection
to be a
handsome
it
proved
filled
of
On
and approval.
appeared
gance
cloves,
On
a previous day a
naleyn,
list
of bridal
gifts.
to
vided by Ibrahim
of
the
marriage),
Bey (who
is
bears
all
the expenses
there are
The
stuff's
handsome
store of
of
gifts
all
the furnishing
much
as possible tied
tinsel
and
on men's heads, or in
gay
Stuffs.
home
an hour
iu
23
new
On
to the bath,
and
toes are
women
accompanied by
of the
harem
all
her
hanums
It is
all
the
tomary present of
fruit has
The
cus-
sits
Her
anxiously awaiting
dress
is
a crimson vel-
and,
in
addition
head.
When
veil, like
on either
mass of jewels
the
to
side,
on the forehead,
24
upon which he
his blessing,
clasps a girdle
round her
the
liberated
of
ancient
harem.
The wedding
procession
is
talikas are
bright stuffs
wound round
the lamps
strips
of
the vakeels
party,
her
new home
arises.
At
the
hand
he stands
at the wide-
to
back and at
first
solicitation before
Some young
ladies
gentle,
the staircase,
Effendi,
held
her veil
and
is
still
closely
drawn down.
The
women
and seated on a
and money
25
is
thrown over
is
artificial garlands.
room
under a canopy of
sort of throne,
of his
and in going
is
passed in
mosque, accompanied by
to
In the harem,
The entrance
to
all
are
is
wander in
free to every
to criticise
now thrown
veil is
feet
cast
down, her
The
neighbour
eye
And
*'
mucb freedom
Mashallah
as
figure.
is
is
not so bad-
the eyebrows
quite
Vai
Who
I see
vai
as
yes, it
denies that ?
it,
The
soft
they
dia-
I think
respected neigh-
26
may not have my opportuniwho knows bow many banums bave lent
but
ties,
lah
have when
wedding? And
all is
looks as
if it
would tumble
helping to hold
Munire
Hanum
off if that
A poor
me
to give
him
my Fatma,
new
stares.
insbal-
Old Ayesha
wanted
as,
will be.
Have you
up.
it
few enough
is
it
returned honestly,
"
They
And
so the shifting
and
when
fifth
prayer,
looks
the
after
calls
which he
raises
upon her
face,
time,
Now,
gift of jewellery.
first
if
the bride
is
quick and
is
her bridegroom's
must
toe, as a certain
means of securing
her
first
act
in,
Re-
and the
of wifely duty
in
to
coffee.
i8
Marriage
festivities frequently
27
is
When
continue for
days,
the
omitted.
tliree
kept.
is
is
a dish
On
by the bridegroom
cream
is
bride,
sent
spects to the
pay his
re-
A bride remains
may
but she
receive
home
month
her friends. Her
at
or six weeks,
first visit
must
The wedding
festivities of
been as simple as could be consistent with scrupulous attention to every necessary detail.
has
since
them
it is
orderly.
The most
the choice of
We saw
in their
wife,
happy
The
though with
in their marriage.
a year, and
'*
we have
during
not had
"
is
very keenly
28
felt
to a distance.
" I have
her eyes
and,
oh
me
My heart
is
withering,
my
little
until I
Zeheira,
the
came away.
once again."
We
dition
withdrew, musing. This aspect of the conand treatment of a " slave," a simple and every-
judgment and
it
fair appreciation
as the
name
of
**
slave,"
and
justi-
ciples of
guidance
IV.
UNDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
Yere-Batan-Serai. The Mysterious Lake. A
Palace
of
the
Were
it
would
left to
suffice to visit
cisterns
note, even in
those
startling contrast
between
Amongst
and beautiful
is
named
(the subterranean
its
solid con-
30
struction, the
the legends
mystery of
its
unknown
haunt
its
sombre wilderness of
that
granite columns.
known, probably
earthquake.
extent, and
filled
is
unor
fire
It is
behind the "souterasi," or water-tower that overlooks the great square of St. Sophia, at a stone's
The master
konak
of this
is
obliging,
and his
that there
is little difficulty
down
slimy platform.
of the water.
weird
their
Out
and solemn
finely
in gaining admittance,
of
bits
wrought
the
columns with
granite
Corinthian
capitals
livid darkness
here,
there, faintly
an opening in the
roof.
Far
as the eye
can reach,
The legends
if
of
boat,
warned by
that another,
unwound,
as
he
so.
his
mysterious
fate,
UXDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
31
platform, told
how
for
These
this
unearthly
**
palace.'*
and
is
it
all
shadows of
fearful
aflfirm
that " the roof rests on three hundred and thirtysix pillars, divided as to length into sixteen rows, in
would seem
to
of this wonderful
all verification
The picturesque
be impossible.
Those
who
visited
cleared
it
some openings
in the
effect
since the
had
Yere-Batan-Serai
is
**
Royal
give
theory that
it
Golden Horn.
much more
it is filled
Some autho-
from a source
at a considerable
32
the
first,
The
*'
:
interior
ajDplied directly
and the
compound of
third, a very
and
he remarks
is
" The
impervious
so efiicacious that,
earth,
although
and thus
and
yet there
is
no
tinople.
western limit
pass
by the
the Atmeidan
to its
industrial schools
and
to a cellar or dustbin.
hand,
is
Behind
door
is
now
The
UNDEKGROUXD STAMBOUL.
83
monument.
But
further evidence
it is
is
on the sea
One
side.
of our best
the short
ascent
German ambassadors.
It is the
rises,
as
hum
of
We
voices.
are standing
human
bir
is
flight of
is
They
are in
is
now embedded
and rubbish.
ing.
This
Roman
is
in the accumulations
strik-
senator
who came
to Constantinople in the
time of Constantine.
VOL.
II.
34
dry.
It
is
mentioned, and
is
some hand-
Corinthian capitals.
fine
When we
1865.
like cavity,
The
down
fire
of
making twine
there in
looked
last
This
most extensive,
is,
in point of
workmanship and
is
these wonderful
situated at a con-
Hippodrome,
Golden Horn.
lies
up the
street,
valley, then,
winds past a
fine old
still
You push
and sculptured
designs
on the
of the pillars,
The
is
remarkably
The workmanship
fine
and of varied
capital,
effect is
this open, if
some on the
from the
shaft.
base,
visible,
the
Tchu-
UNDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
kour Bostan " (the sunken garden)
higher up the same
Arcadius.
It
hillside,
35
found rather
is
is
abundant and
Selim
is
in Constantinople.
also a market-garden,
near the side of the Divan Yol, not far from the
Adrianople gate.
of Bonus,
There
It is
cistern
is yet,
same
It is
thought to have
Of the
close to the
The entrance
is
at present
can
unknown
now be
seen.
four rows of
Djarai,
is
monastery of
Emir Ahkor
rests
St.
John Studius
there
on twenty
now
the mosque of
four
columns with
the roof
handsomely
36
wrought
capitals.
cowhouse and
stable.
from time
demolition, and
to time
brought to view by
fire
or
rest,
This
is
at the Seraskierate,
Fazli Pasha.
In this last-named
spot, the
ground
Fuad Pasha,
is
completely honeycombed
These were
visible
for a
short while
they
that
that slope.
Seraskierate, and particularly the
still
grander proportions.
War
Office
When
were
laid,
V.
TURKISH HOME
The Harem.
Notwithstanding
all
LIFE.
Slavery.
little
information has
still
life,
as
prevail in
Western Europe.
An
life
of
our
ties
nise
still
force
in
fail to
recog-
seem
of
to
life
would
selves.
None but
residents in a
thoroughly realise
impossible
it is
how
difficult
it
may
be said
how
and
38
the
of Turkisti
subject
non-Mussulman countries
is,
home
howeyer,
The
life.
obvious
in
to arrive at
of the
country.
life
peculiar to the
are, doubtless,
to
wrong
hold.
In Turkey
tainable
visitors
own standard
may
of
right and
be formed of the
this information
by the inquirer
of
even
is
unob-
No husband
Mussulman household.
any
men
Few
even
among
tion to
able barrier
can be
little
to frequent intercourse
few subjects of
lish
while there
common
interest
"
feeling
and
hanum
" and so
it
women
Western
But there
many
errors
on the
subject.
harem
life.
They
bouk or a
cofiee,
cigarette, get
they accept
have mastered in
this easy
40
Turkish
life
moving
flower-
beds, the
and Asia.
The
ladies of a very
strict
''
ghiaour
"
it
ject of
its
world knows
ally adopting in
of the
so the
*'
Franks."
The
strictly
educated Turkish
brought up.
liberty of the
Frank woman,
by
their
male
half- contemptuous
Mussulman woman
is
The
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
through her existence, with
visits
made and
its
41
wifely direction
make
the
They
entail.
making
included
assist in
harem, slaves*
pensed freely to
it
all
who
is dis-
the
first
month
of the
Mohammedan
year
at
which
is
above-mentioned.
They are
for the
spent by Turkish
These women
infest the
harem.
evil
women
to take
of lavish
much
ex-
distress
42
all
manner
hands
medium
are the
of
into
unauthorised communications
lend themselves.
As may
home
first
younger bro-
day
is
During the
festivals of
less
Bairam the
their congratulations.
The
slightest
change in the
and friends
When
is
a sufficient reason
change of residence.
two attendants.
43
is
staircase
lalla, if
The
dependents.
visitor is
yashmak and
be only a morning
call
The
may
visit
and
moves
As
broidered.
to take leave.
made
These wrap-
em-
room
mouth and
She
forehead.
is
member
In these inquiries
of bey or
When
hanum.
the coffee
person will
make
is
44
hostess
cup
the same
desired to
repeated as the
is
politeness
little
When
is
it is
"yarf"
filagree or jewelled
"ca'imak,''
the cup
visitor,
offered
is
creamy
the
of respect
by the
called
froth,
first
complimentary,
Unmarried
girls, or
younger
sister
is
found quite
Young
girls
unmarried daughter.
without
No member
though
of a
harem
it.
Chil-
kiss,
Dependents
the
hem
kiss,
or
it
rather
homage.
that
is
45
admirable in the
we must
mode
up
that the
cially
of bringing
little
children, espe-
is
we
in
England consider
are reared,
is true,
it
in habits of respect
as
They
and sub-
healthy control
dispositions.
is
They
in infancy
in childhood
by the
lallas
girls, until
freedom.
They
little
may wander
in
most
inj urious to
them
It is usual to accuse
in every way.
Turkish
women
of great free-
justified,
harems there
The
fully
is
yet
much
above remarks
to be
many
amended.
and
stately
46
manner'* of
tlie
With
the march of
civilisation
and
im-
it is
to
has made
way
its
into a household,
so
things"
have
been
and
The Turks
This bright
well
known
to
is
too
who
calls
where pious
moosafirlik
may
'
or guests' room,
where the
traveller
find lodging
at the
liberality," says a
it
'
may not
TURKISH HOME
47
LIFE.
men
less
of the family.
filled
endeavours at least to
fulfil
is
unworthy
one of the
indiscrim-
objects, she
precepts
first
of her religion.
some
his
life.
common
on every day of
no workhouses
ments for the
and, alas
There are
in
relief of
so insufficient, in our
own
country.
the poverty
is less
But
not that
poor
woman
is
unbounded.
bundle containing
little
For
all
instance,
is
known
stranger, but
Her
place
is
to
it is
she
is
set at the
life
mattresses
48
and padded
and
On
one
woman is frequently
entirely reclothed. There are many women, most of
them widows in very poor circumstances, who pass
new garment, and the poor
their lives
and
(until lately)
to
of
we should say in
But the utter absence
any attempt
habits of
A de-
time,'*
women
"
to
educate Turkish
throws a vast class of the population upon the kindness of their richer neighbours,
who have
At
tress,
and
dis-
impoverished and
war
means
yet find
whom
all
the
49
Mussulman
who received,
more.
some
to
exiles.
terrible illness,
own
her
people,
fed,
She did
suffering from
to
The animals
also
It is a
common
them and
;
They
them frequently
feed
at
even in
many
cases leave
money
in their wills to
The Harem.
A
term
VOL.
harem," as no word
II.
in
connection witU
50
by Western
nations.
Harem,"
*'
sacred "
signifying
whole
we also understand
Mussulman wo-
by the men of
the family.
tramway
(the
carriages,
tekes,
women
there are
passengers, as
where from
behind latticed screen-work they can participate unseen in the devotions of the hour.
A Turkish
konak when
when
is called
it is
konak
is built
as
a country
genu-
the gardens
The
position of the
harem may be
ascertained
by
These blinds
window
TURKISH HOME
No harem windows
51
LIFE.
cannot be overlooked.
unpaved
access to a vast
give
coMres
to the poi'tes
similar
serving as renme
court,
in France
there
as in
may
gene-
France, the
The great
entrance gates
on one
side, protected
which shuts
it
harem
tall
lives in a
and near
it,
which
all
is
wooden screen-work,
many konaks
In
by a
box
in
deposited.
city,
the lower
the courtyard,
is
usually filled
by
shops, the
second story.
first
It
may
is
called the
**
raa-
From
the term
52
mabeyn
is
derived the
title
The kitchens
of a
bedrooms
cially furnished as
day in large
closets,
You may
furnished.
is
Every
suite of
treasury
rooms in a house
provided with
and great
particular value
room
is
Sometimes
articles of
magaza."
The scrupulous
arrangement
is
out of England.
Nothing
is
prettier or
more dainty
Adrianople
gold-embroidered
soap standing
(high clogs),
on
it
its
and lightly
muslin,
one
a ball
side,
and
cloth.
the unslippered
protect
53
from the
feet
marble flooring.
In the apartments the invariable custom of leaving the outer shoes at the foot of the staircase keeps
the carpeting or matting free from
This
soil.
is
on which
any
stain
all
ing of garments
is
household organisation
without which the
may
fires so
be
it
detail of
mentioned
here,
at present.
It is
and but
in safety.
When we
of a family
we
it
Thus
belong
to,
all
the
women
as we
its
to
him
yet they
54
contain the
harem of
women are
a bey or pasha.
They
forth-
much
beauty.
yashmak know
terribly old
that
several
and wrinkled
fascinating in
its
proportion of negresses.
prettier
women
are
of these houris
and
a plentiful
it is
possible that
himself
is
who
slave, or
own
the pro-
Mohammed
;
of
The law
many
slaves as his
means can
now
it is
65
in the present
to
moderate fortune.
In
many
forming
all
is
much
These
subdivided,
Polygamy
to be
is still
as the
may
With
classes.
these latter a
acquisition of a
woman
acquisition of an ass
baggage
takes
is
"
Sur^djis,
them
to
men
in charge of
men
fcbeir line,
of wealth
numerous retinue
is
day.
among
the
first
56
have
lier
The
vants.
is
very great,
and dreading
(as
rels,
menage^
he
placidly
settles
down
respect-
into a
own
standard of respectability.
Many
a quiet patriarchal
is
unremitting care
she
is
she
the
is
first to
set the
Gentleness towards
little
children and
life.
The
little ones,
fea-
even
man
while the
a world- worn
ticularly his
all
many
who
mother
the valide
is
well
known
to
harem.
With regard
to
feminine
titles
and designations,
may
a short explanation
of sultana
is
made by
to the
It is never borne
Padishah.
The
strangers.
and
sisters of sultans
57
by those
who
ladies
and excep-
tional circumstances)
whom
kadinn.
The mother
is
then
monarch
this
is
women forming
the
imperial household.
she acquires
place,
and
is
is
the wife
who
is
styled
the
little
lady
she reside
if
the "
is
used
buyuk hanum.
title
" kutchuk
In the
hanum
is
**
applied to
58
by
their
may
This style
is
maintained
in
family
be addressed
title
hanum.
intercourse
when grown
and
and
it
ma
is
an elder
or
In
all
invariably rise
quits the room.
admirable in
Turks
to a
when
many
length which
among
for instance, a
tie,
the
women
families,
men and
if
band,
when
is easily
obtained
Divorce
however, he
divorced wife
any reason
called
is
the
sum
In
upon
of
59
to
pay over
this
to the
A wife also
hanum
this
frequently
obligation
demand
amongst
man may
it.
liberated halaik
master.
He may
as a free
his wife,
those of a stranger.
been for
man
many
former
As an
he
is
no longer
Hourie had
it
for
many
It
so.
60
from
it
tlie
if
can be
onlj^
yashmak and
handsome house
when enveloped
feradje.
Slavery.
The word
''
is
when speak-
a term conveying to
the English
girl torn
to pine
of rhinoceros hide.
and yet
it
is
not entirely
sometimes seek
its
victims.
Circassian
it
does not
manner
false,
so
all
come
their
to pass in the
dear to novelists.
in reality
women
are
homes,
dramatic
I turn to notes
and
it
61
arrival in this
first
if
own
a feeling
that she
was sold by her own people, although careful inquiry will establish the fact in most cases.
cassian
husbands
not
home and
wives from
unfrequently
sell
them
years since.
ceased, as the
into
Turkey
decoy their
to the slave-dealers,
Cir-
as wet-nurses.
the importation of
The importation
on as vigorously
as ever.
The
traffic
by
in slaves goes
Circassians, indeed,
no other object
also
if
many such
and
may
benefit them.
The parents
62
lift
in the world.
and kindness.
ones
little
They
are
sharing in
all
is
who
Little slaves
la
when,
education
is
if
to write a
may become
readers and writers of a more advanced order or kiayas housekeepers. They learn
in time, kiatibs
also to
own
clothes,
little
it
Circassians,
as
for
63
later,
The
their
80
with
100;
or
When
slave
little
arriving,
it
may
is
be,
receives, at the
and
the
first
thing done
She
fanciful
handed over
is
to the care of
an
poor
and as the
as
dialects in that
the tribes,
it
is
which in
many
In great
respects
houses,
is
an elder
by no means a hard
slave,
them
clothing,
one.
a calfa (one
who has
the
to work,
They
room
(if
old enough),
64
lier clotlies,
The
her.
women and
a hundred
girls
many
as
many
women
own country
In quiet
of course, very
much
number
of halaiks
five or six
it
is,
where
would
handmaidens and
;
of labour the
life
It follows that
of a slave here
any one
on the question
infinitely less
is
of our maids-of-all-
may
to be considerably greater.
hold
is
well-fed, lodged,
be
said, in
Every
one sense,
slave in a house-
In very rich
and clothed.
make
it is
very usual
These sums
TURKISH HOME
the
65
LIFE.
many
light of ailik, or
houses
monthly
The
made
it
may make
a hand-
carriages
family.
and horses
to
customary present
when two
or three
new
Handsome
gifts are
still
unmarried, has
lalla,
In this
much
than 9) a month
same
liberal scale.
as 10 liras (more
In this family, as
who
is
frequently
class,
the slaves
continue to receive a
VOL.
II.
sum
F
for
maintenance, piid
66
montlily.
ing in honour
if
There
is
and
associations,
friends or dependents
them
or served
little
When
the
tion of
new
may
dresses
distribu-
be mentioned here.
and
and known
little
Then the
In
stuffs are
spread upon
immense pair of
inaugurates the work for each garment, sayfirst cut, " Bismillah " (in the
name of God).
As already mentioned, the white slaves
are seldom called
upon
to
in a
harem
of the house.
TURKISH HOME
67
LIFE.
it is
either
done
The meals
women,
cook,
in covered dishes.
When-
is
it is
and she
is
who
is
the
means inconsiderable.
There
is
no legal limit
by halaiks to
very
much
their owners
to
;
in different families.
slave
bought in
them
it is
may
be not at
clever,
and
all,
it
so speedily,
and
become valuable
to
their mistress.
their
behaved
well.
She
is
opportunity
is
offers.
coming frequently
to
visit their
68
whom they
companions, from
welcome.
If a calfa
who
many
has been
years in a
much
at liberty to
do whatever she
likes,
and
home where
means of
existence.
own with
its
humbler
warmed in
The
winter, and
suffi-
women, such
principal
as
might be glad
The kiaya
to occupy.
is
She
is
and pays
visits
vakeel or representative.
degree.
her.
It is usually
some elderly
free
to attend
upon
**
mother)
69
no home
ties of
by her
is
If she havo
former
home on
is
more often
a long
visit.
to be
The
found in her
dada, or nurse,
The bash
women and
girls
Some
slovenly,
is
establish-
It
perform
others
depending generally on
to those
to
wealthy and
slave
oblige her
who
owner
often exercised.
is
to sell
her again.
This right
is
not
if
sends her
away on a
visit
to
some friend or
by command of the
is,
70
harem agha, usually a mild and good-natured member of the household, does not spare the strokes of
his terrible courbash
of the delinquent.
But
floggings,
day these
in the present
unknown
when they have
the
sell
and a
harem whose
life
despaired of
is
In
tenderness
is
slave in a great
shown, and
it
is
cast forth
her brief
mercy or
is
She
life
not
unhappily
it
to
draw her
last
a burden to be shaken
There
is
may be
off"
to cherish
and soothe
rest,
it is
may
devote herself to
it
71
born her
and
slave,
may
is
hanum
father,
which
is
It
some pretext,
is
this willingly
or, if
that be not
They sometimes
do
in both
cases,
when
an instance occurs to
me
in the
The
and mistress
Hagar
to her
said,
in great
law
and
is
custom,
resents
diminution of her
inheritance.
own
wife.
the rule.
of the
had presented a
in despite of
indignantly
affection,
as
all
rival
well as the
72
as
sold,
it is
customary
to give the
actually, free.
their children,
hanum.
her
own
halaik
is
not of
no
She
social rank.
is
much
account amongst
them
wedded
free-born
is
an
to
the position
of free
women and
To be a "schehirle" hanum (a
woman, literally a lady born in the city)
wives.
acknowledged
many men
title
of
respectability
yet
marry halaiks
connections.
to a higher position,
and well-mannered
as the
most undeniable
much
house, has
which with us
is
thought
to
be inseparable from
We
negresses
what
id
The
different footing.
fact of
slaves.
girls,
the
is,
may
lead
them
to the highest
promo-
Circassians
embark
willingly,
and triumph
merciless
down by the
slave-dealers,
carried off
by
force,
and
happy for those poor victims who live to reach Stamboul that a more merciful and humane treatment
awaits
while their
many
speedily
The value
of a black slave
is
considerably less
74
tion
no educa-
As
and
it
is
On
care.
in-
There
vengeance.
is
marked
women
is
and woolly
lips,
hair,
frequently a model of
dusky beauty
difference between
of
an antique bronze.
They
the
is
the sort of
Another
aghas or
first
rank, where
75
walking beside a
lalla
raised
part of a
after
whom
they accompany
while a
lalla
who
displays
hold.
They
act as commissioners
in private
life.
to consist in
The
in person.
employed
when walking,
driving,
little
beys
and hanums.
usually a porter an
whose special duty consists in attend-
man
is
He
who
is
called
His
76
on hollow wood, proceeding from a wooden receptacle inserted in the wall beside the great door
is
open on one
side,
it
women
to
view
The aiwass
house
is
several are
to
they
upon
accompany
parties of the
women and
chil-
if
not
the same
all,
may
ser-
be said of the
VI.
Fancies
A WINTER
and Facts. A
THE SUNNY
IN
Luxury.
Dog's
EAST.
Snowstorm.
The
Disasters
Russe."
Street
at
in the Suburbs.
**
Sea.
Summer.
summer
perfumed by groves of
and pleasure.
let
us
this
year of grace
1874.
such as
is
most usual
melted
some sudden
at Constantinople
some
squalls,
falls
of
days
snow,
varied by
of
soon
summer
78
brightness.
when the
is
season in "Wes-
In the
first
fall
of
astonishment
its soft
down upon
their hard
delightful,
it
and
snowed gently
It
and great
coast,
one,
flights
making
from
at intervals
of birds were
this,
Men
balls,
keep
persistently
slept
last,
would
it
But, at
Every
it
was
fill
our
country.
its part,
and
possible.
The harbour
is
invisible
Now
and then a
foot passenger,
braving
the
extinguished
^9
violent,
more
sinister.
There
is
trian Embassy.
the service
streets,
is
dancing
around.
The wind
charge of cannon
wild
gaiety
sinister hush.
there,
It swells,
Ah
unhappy
cry,
striking the
guardian,
it
merciful
Heaven
in
It
stifled
is
sound of a club
gives warning of
fire.
It
bums with
those
have
and the
snow.
who
are
loud
They
dis-
pity on the
filled.
thousand thunders
partly
an ominous,
of the tempest.
is
falls
whistling shrieks
not a breath
dangerous
amusements; fabulous
its
There
is
but a pleasure-
terrible catastrophe of
and
1870
80
the sparks
fall,
hissing,
are extinguished.
and
fire is
soon mastered.
It is scarcely distinguishable
half buried.
man
and
who
more
^'Milk" in
a stifled voice.
U8, sad
through
and mournful,
soul.
street cab
life
The telegraph
Nothing moves
as well as the
banks and
the
Exchange
is
closed,
Some
Galata.
offices of
this sad
No
stores are
and
firing.
made here against a season of excepOne lives from day to day and if
tional severity.
last
The municipality
is
aroused
they discover
and an order
to authority,
is
issued.
It is resisted
perhaps in submission
the
point
is
yielded,
spotted
is
81
day by an
all
up slowly
from the
in
The
all,
liussia,
classic
snow.
are draped in
streets spread
is
all
Athens, the
The
and
its
but
it
fallen.
the flocks in
all
lost in the
tragedy
is
related,
and
(all
allowance
fill
made
for
deepest pity.
It is said that
at early
II.
82
forest of Belgrade
workmen on the
Many
fate.
railways, have
persons also
family of twelve
have
The same
pelago,
In the
environs,
terrible
in
whole
case
the
in
fuel.
mountain
villages
The wrecks
tressing.
from
off
The long
list
full.
are, if possible,
are innumerable.
more
dis-
During
Bosphorus
and
down
happily without
lifeboat service
men
at the
mouth of the
were
but
many
remain unknown.
fallen,
many
variations.
Now
it
is
a group of chil-
the slope on
mud
then
a Turkish
it is
83
EAST.
woman,
is
down
Some Europeans
The
calm majesty.
At Stamboul and
at
Every open
by a
lion or
species,
not
bit of
ground
ornamented
is
always
well
received
by the unaccustomed
native.
Some days
later.
The wind
rapid thaw.
Much
white
is
is
is
heavy
there
is
but such
is
the inequality
is
hot, stifling.
and
to seek for
country houses.
During u month or
84
two we
shall
mud
then,
and of
all
this
deluge of snow
of jS^icomedia.
VII.
THE ART OF
LIVING, ACCORDING TO
GREEK
FOLK-LORE.
The use
Further Value of Slippers. Na
" Giving and Taking, Spilt Salt must be Peppered.
Baleful Day.
How
of Salt in a Slipper.
Na
**
of a Half-open Door.
ting on a Box.
"Wash"
of a Household.
Awful
The Danger of
in
which
amusement
in gleaning such
my
path.
Some
Tuesday
which
is
Greek
to begin
wrong
fit,
weak
all
must go
One hour
86
is so
grow
up
and unmanageable.
vicious
is
Tuesday-born children
may
one, however,
]N^o
unwelcome,
let
slip a
pinch of
the unconscious
diately
guest resolves to
him
safety entreat
him
nothing
is
death
of
is
only a
little salt
is
is
taken as
Here
neighbourhood.
the
that
prolong
to
toe of a slipper,
you may
in
depart.
to leave.
salt
imme-
is
required
put
Again,
it
in the
it
over,
and
rest in peace.
slipper
is
should always
a strangely
be
one
at
useful
hand
article
there
for emergencies.
its
;;
is
black handkerchief on
thoughtlessly so bound
Na
There
come
of
it
member never
and
if
at all
but
is
cautiously.
will
up
Woe to
an abomination.
her brows
87
of those
let
people
homely substances,
will inevitably be
burned down.
let
it
may
take
hand
it
up
neglect
of this
trifling
precaution.
To
but
if
wine
is spilt
If salt
is
by a genuine
most unfortunate
accident,
you may
happy prognostic.
scatter a little
pepper upon
it
to
88
corpse
carried past,
is
it
is
must be shut in
all haste,
tenement
is
up
On
not desired.
its
abode where
it
so hastily
removed, a
down and
broken, that
lost
it
may
home.
may happen
worldly goods
disastrous
partially open, a
is left
up within
stored
as the property
slip out of
A person
who
sits
down
to rest
upon a box
filled
girl
whose belongings
to negotiate marriages,
who
of those passing in
sits
tion
in spite
of haste
and
OH
instantly
return, to
unwind the
so
spell
up and
perish.
You may
be tired, or
reflective, or
to
do
up
so is to tie
all
Be
sure to
sold afterwards
aware of
The
money taken by
should be rubbed
A
it
the
but
down,
if
not
it is
at
it
is
first
amount
become musty
will
it
easy to procure
Is
perhaps in a
defiant
of
all
custom
a dealer in the
morning
the
first
wound
must
That
first
find
is
an
after consideration.
up
She
it,
then
round.
By
go
quickly
this wise
away without
measure
all
looking
bad consequences
will be avoided,
to at
leisure.
The
of
many
rules of
faith.
She
is
especially attentive
"
90
to the
phenomena that
affect the
bougatha, or great
when
all is finished,
out gradually.
is
If,
to die
A
is
but beware
the
of
false friend
treacherously admires
in,
beautifully
the
"How
it.
who, coming
finger.
there
is
worn jacket
some
neighbour's dress
burn
it
to cut off
evil eye,"
some part
her well-
fraj^ed tatter of
in the candle,
and
of the
and apply
it
to
When
zontally, otherwise
family a
when no longer
not to leave them
visit will
any
feet hori-
relation likely to
pay the
a pair of scissors
is left
gaping on a table.
is
91
is
member
of
There
is
remedy
is
unconscious glance.
Take three
them solemnly on a
pin,
cious
in
air.
attained;
mence.
stick
cloves,
the
fine
if
not,
and recom-
trial
A person
the
tations.
invi-
Do
lest
Such
number
nelves,
evident
and similar
superstitions,
is infinite, trivial
possess
as they
which the
may seem
certain interest,
derivation
of
some
in
them-
in
their
highe^t
92
all
local circumstances,
and mysterious
influences, of
unknown
is
VIII.
BROUSSA.
Broussa, which
is,
after
quently, for
The
its
slopes of
on the northern
the plain.
visi-
On
the city,
may
the
site
line
Of the
much
east
and west
earlier date.
some
by
94
Prusias,
King
whom
with
of Blthynia,
the cele-
fire,
effectually
now
called the
Mount
Katirli,
answers to Strabo's
was carried
Katirli,
off
by the Nereids.
the town,
At
the foot of
site
of Cius, founded
by
Roman
first
as governor of the
letters to his
imperial
my
Olympus," he obtains
Prusenses
"
enterprise.
95
BROUSSA.
has
He
vince of Bithynia.
is
munity.
From
its
gates to
his
son
Orkhan.
Sultan
Mehemed
it
was the
is
almost a holy
hundred
more than
five
Olympus
sultans,
lie
whom
vezirs, saints
and enthusiasts,
legislators, poets,
and their
piety.
The
older parts
96
ing spot.
cells
and
Monks.
tain of the
Many
still
We
by Orkhan
crisis
fantastic beings in
summoned
performed pro-
wooden sword
of fabulous
His
cell
and tomb
mountain.
There
is
stantinople,
who
city,
transported
BROUSSA.
97
Then again
there
is
of the
old
fifty
pounds.
monuments of
persons
Ottoman Power
who
a half of
its
existence
fore,
illustrious
interest.
It will suffice to
cessors of
and
dynast)'',
life
show
the pas-
of the prede-
it
by his wisdom.
In referring
to the
him out
**
of
Noah
his arke
Khan
as the
Accord-
some of the
later inhabitants,
into Moldavia,
VOL.
II.
it
Usbegs, penetrated
98
Roum, the
largest principality of
capital.
country
I.
its
to establish
many
useful
and
man
talis-
Mew-
Mewlevi dervishes.
This Sultan of Iconium (who used the crescent as
men
flying from
Empire,
for,
Mahau, on the
frontiers of Khorassan,
of the
Ottoman
home near
by the same
Oghuz and
chief of a
Turcoman
tribe,
wandered
99
BROUSSA.
and
carts,
poore
clan Kai
little
wandered
for
at
he decided,
at the death of
Djenghiz Khan, on
re-
His
tribe dispersed
Eastern homes
may
be seen to
are even
now
often
known
as
Mount
Ida.
among
They
made
the north-
Mount Olympus.
100
'for
so far
'*
tents of
from seek-
patience, taking
it
kindly towards
A.D. 1289.
by the
in peace, surrounded
Here he dwelt
all
men," and
little,
bare himself
peacefully, he died
so,
is
He
field of
Long
it
spirit
mon
acclamation to the
he had commenced a
command
Byzantine Empire
by com-
weak and
tottering
cities,
he began by
who was
flocks
and herds of
their
summer
his tribe
Having obtained
for
them
of
a peaceful
the
Sakharia.
enjoyment of
101
BROUSSA.
neighbouring
and put
there.
castle, surprised it
sword
to the
all
by night, burnt
it,
many
years before
**
Turks,
who
not
as
now beginning
Christians."
therefore, to join
little
knew
these same
poor
Aided by
of
Osman was
not to be
castles,
Osman
it
with
first
in the great
102
by
which
Mussulman and
was the
Nicea
fell
first
Christian.
city
of
great importance
treasures found
The
warriors,
honour
full rights
of a sovereign
Sultans of
Koum.
He
first
name
in the
time (about
made
in his
is
to
considered
to the dignity of
when
kettle^
this
Osman
and Kastamouni.
sometimes pausing
to
busy
103
BROUSSA.
lishing such a quiet and wise
flocked to
him
to live
then, bursting
him
to
Broussa.
Being unable
by
assault,
Osman
approaches to
it
now
after
of
Mohammedan
the
Osman,
of
ten years,
its
gates to
in the year
1327
re-
dome
of
the
principal
building there
the
Daoul Monastir.
is
venerated by
all
true
justice,
and moderation.
tary success
for the
universally acknowledged, that although only possessing a tenth part of the territory of
some neigh-
he never omit-
104
subjects,
whom
poor,
he often assisted to
The founder
relieve,
serving
greatest kindness.
of the
name and a
sovereignty ex-
number
perty he
wonderfully
little.
to the
Of personal pro-
It is curious to read
"
He
left
in
some
flags
excellent horses,
and
which feed
Mount Olympus.
is
with Broussa than that of his father, as he conducted the ten years' siege
it
Orkhan
founded numerous
edifices
mosques and
public
the
first
Empire
It
was Orkhan
also
who
established
he founded
at
Nicea the
first
imaret, or
105
BROUSSA.
soup-kitchen, for the poor.
In every
district there
known by the
Orkhanlar, which were established by him
exist,
even
name
of
Orkhan died
find
it
and we
by barbarity
title
and
or violence, and
political
institutions
Numa
of the Otto-
of the
mans.
The
fell at
Mourad
I.
in the
of the fine
he
Osman were
interred at Broussa
at
also
mausoleum
Tchekirghe
capital.
Bajazet (Yil-
and
by
Mohammed
I.,
mausoleum
monuments
of
Mourad
II.,
father of
Mehemmed
106
place
is
found in
this,
of his dynasty.
Osman.
He
less
was
He
infant State.
other matters
many
of importance,
together with
and,
most notable element of which was the troop composed of young Christian captives
named
this
troops).
military body
They
known
are
Yeni Shery
to us
(the
new
of Janissaries.
The memory
of Soliman, a son of
in great veneration
first to
Orkhan,
by the Osmanlis.
is
He was
held
the
by the conquest
His tomb
is
Gallipoli.
monuments and
Khatoun, the
charitable institutions.
first
Niloufer
107
BROUSSA.
especial mention as the foundress of one
It
one of the
finest
was in the
mosques
in the
them are
to this prin-
who
of
Ottoman Empire.
hundred and
many
Kha-
in peaceful
by the
cele-
speaks of her as
is
a city restored,
it
and
in its former
desolate
owes
the
to
Ahmet Vefyk
Pasha.
it
energetic
By
its
foundations: the
mosques
and ruined.
At
that time,
number
of adventurous travellers.
its ruins.
The Broussa of
and
skill,
Mondania
is
good
continued through
108
different
the invalid,
tourist,
the
or
commercial
traveller.
of the marshes
fields,
by the suppression
of the rice-
to the
most celebrated
climate and
soil
Scarcely
perfumes
districts
and
in conse-
the
past
two years.
Seven
of
colonies
ground
its
each has
school.
which by
the
silk,
its little
mosque,
its
fountain,
and
a supply of water,
suburb of the
city.
The market
is
when completed,
It
is
impossible to mention
all
109
BROUSSA.
of
Ahmet Vefyk
note with
Pasha, but
gratitude the
we must
fact
not forget to
the Christian
that
those
who need
it,
the
help.
We
may
also
add that
meet with
this
and male-
of peace
in
the
great
five
mosques,
factories, that
employ
The
much esteemed
stilffs,
and gauzes
in private houses
may
so
Many of
IX.
I.
'
'
'
'
Difficulties.
Almost
at the
endowed with
all
is
until
Broussa, on the
it
is
inherent
remembered
in
human
Ill
visited
where elaborate
treat
and incessant
day
any day
is
all.
little for
a re-
formal promenade?,
toilettes,
is
it
offers to
them almost
Ottoman Empire,
The charms
do not, however,
claims of the other
suffer
:
of the one
The
graceful
like palaces
and "
yalis "
own
all
all,
at the
Mount
112
its
Broussa also
is
more Oriental
infinitely
in cha-
is
constantly
met with
the
modern
May
Sth.
Off" at last
The steamer
for
Broussa
my
is
way along
we avoided
as best
we
could the
by the
little
who
seem, to per-
113
we wound
ourselves
highway
to that part of
name
Box
of
Street.
which they
boxes.
tive to
by the unpoetical
by the workers
use chiefly
for
in cypress wood,
infallible preven-
wood on entering
this
neighbourhood
not perceive
We
it.
so strong as
which usually
is
called
it
way
starts
from
the quarter-deck.
my
as yet, but
any kind
servant, has
made the
my
comfort,
seats of
left
am
to start
on
my journey
alone.
Now
the anchor
and wakes
VOL.
II.
to life
is
up.
The machine
with a shudder
I
palpitates
114
ladder.
gesticulate in their
returning to land.
its
on every
side.
leaps, dances, or
There are
movement and
The
Amongst them
property.
who
perceive
In
and their
all
the
them
They watch
it
fast
disappearing in the
with the
heart rather than the eye they see the waving signal
of farewell
But there
no room
for
at once a
it
boat.
There
is
and bundles,
osier baskets,
description,
115
down
to
by
displays
nature of
its
its
a paper of tobacco, some cheese, a candle, a pipestem, a water-melon, a bunch of raw onions,
and
Lying around,
voyage.
garden of shrubs in
its
puppies, a miniature
cases, a
The
tresses
women
native
jars, pipes,
children, water-
An
conveniently.
Oriental family
is
soon comfort-
ably installed.
I
am
in the
distinction
men
tion.
is
harem
My
shares with
me
who
is
now
familiar
head and
a large white
figure,
and the
from below
116
of
tlie
Her
forehead.
dress
is
but she
sits
very
silent, for I
tongue
is
A poor woman
the Arabic.
little,
her familiar
crouched on
she begs a
is
little
Ottoman,
much as
women and
vicinity I shrink as
Several other
There
on the boards.
is
an independent youth
also,
who takes
mamma's repeated
sively past
me
lad's
all
amusing.
cabin.
them, and in a
composed
I
am
as
still
moment they
there-
are as thoroughly
having
my
friends off
117
Moda Bournou
to deviate
now nearing
we
stop
needless to attempt
is
very short
in fact,
we
is
from the
me wonder-
little
I see turbaned
stone scala.
with a severe
his
and Fanny.
arm
fall,
spraining
with some
He
difficulty.
is
met
liis
up
so that he is helped
lately
going to Broussa to
We
five,
besides
know
that
Aunt
Sally
is
Poor Uncle Ben, patient as a lamb under his misfortune, never dims our spirits
sits
in a state of quiet
bright, cheerful,
and
active,
an indefatigable
118
and clever
Now we
as
is
the
start again
we begin
to enter the
rain-clouds roll
to
life
transparent.
palamede
fish,
in
on
arise
am
of bedding
faithful to
and we
my
all feel
travelling
ourselves thoroughly in
- kief."
jagged
cliffs
We pass
beautiful
still
the
rich ochre-
and
left
then Anti-
and nearer
coloured earth.
now
in
hundreds round
sea-gulls,
who
its crest.
119
We
turn our
are, apparently,
dreamy background
views from
to all the
But
goats,
nature.
There
to a gorge
is
is
abandoned
utterly
to
if
the swelling
on
its
as
it
boul
we enter,
we are
and luxuriant
any longer.
On
the oppo-
Olympus, in
all
its
snowy
we
are yet
many
miles distant,
120
imme-
it.
is
all
other lines of
trees
coast,
be
all
am
The
viewed in connection
sadly afraid
it
roll-
too, ma}^
bores me.
it
doesn't signify,"
and I think
it,
or about
am
narrow
white wall.
We
we have passed
and
after
in obtaining
we
121
when Aunt
vehicle, but
on
ground
to the
for the
The
"If
it
weren't
driver
took
the occur-
he got a large
thought we should
start,
then we
a certain
is
amount
baggage
is
and then
it
readjusted,
settled
on the packs.
while
lumbering along
property begins
all
the building
over again.
is
the high
dled aside to
It is
good
up
is
settled at length,
am
lies at
first
and
sure a ther-
Our way
of our
to bear in
the third.
being
we
it is
F
in
]22
Olympus
is
all,
crown-
summit which we
that half
way
know
so I
an intense lapis
is
hill
covered
the
Soon we turn
sea-shore, plunge
at a sharp angle,
into
and leaving
this verdure,
winding
we
a party of Turkish
women,
in
by glimpses
yashmak and
of
feradje,
little
olive groves, to
still
tall
vines,
123
seeing anything of
carriage.
(in
part),
flowers,
and
we
the talikas do
expected, and
if
the
occasionally falls
settle it
again in
a capital joke to
it
its place.
we
are going
skinny
little ponies,
but
sits
now directly
is
behind.
at
many
points of
the road, but nothing worse has happened than dislocation to our parcels,
rest for a
and we are
all
drawn up
to
little
cups of
coffee,
They
to us
up and
it
a party of Turkish
stops.
It is the Pasha's
124
This
is
is
my
fret
and curvet
im-
She
for awhile at a
graceful canter
down
We resume
wood
trees.
"We are
all in a
state of
We
rosy haze as
it
moun-
city,
and
125
mountain
its
depths, reveals
far
and sadly on
and farther
flashes
still
fire
Sultan Djamissy.
long been
The snowy
lost to us,
crest of
Olympus has
we
still
in all the
by Niloufar, the
is
beautiful
is
Greek
the one
wife
of
halted
it
its silver
landscape.
right hand,
we
first
immense khan
accommodation of
patients.
instead of pro-
126
it
has
off
party,
but the
taking a lane
to the right,
we
hanging boughs.
We
We
know
we
them now,
that
note of
roadside,
shall see
them again,
so
we take small
by the
wild flowers.
street of the
for a
and beech
trees,
high above
us,
we turn
and
to the right,
see perched
Loschi.'*
as
we
We
du Mont
reach
it
we
are welcomed
We
Gillardi.
me from my happy
visit
then
all is quite
127
the same as
with
same people,
Marietta
is
formerly
trifle
them
florid
for
than
civil,
bells
divan compose
the
all
first floor,
for Loschi
culinary department,
and
his
traditions
remain,
May
softly
9th.
away
brisk tinkling of
in the distance,
I hastened to the
many
awoke me
bells,
this
dying
morning
of
in
feet,
humps, red
tassels,
They were
128
Each camel,
the building,
it
came up
little
off,
rest,
relieved of their
and disappeared
off,
little rustic
music
plain, the
direction of the
then
down once
ranged in a row, to
down
gateway of
be unloaded,
to
farther
until a certain
to the great
down
knelt
make room
rising to
more a
as
bridge, in the
of their bells
from our
sight.
once more
was glad
character to a place.
On my
first
arrival in
Con-
and
are,
of the
foot
pas-
scarce in Stamboul
harmony
locality.
is
still
from the
In the foreground,
;;
129
battering which
it
hurled against
it
the building
we can
On
numerous torrents
wheel,
and beyond
winding by a
shadow
in the grey
again in the
warm
figures dotting
it
listless
is
moUahs
;
next
macaws
women,
trail-
suburb of
castle heights,
which
rise abruptl}-,
half
way
by powerful beams,
of the earthquake.
see
is
Near
wo
cliff
li.
130
The
is
hidden from
we
Jewish quarter, an
Behind
now shrouded
in vapour,
golden or ruby-coloured,
lilac,
now
colour, with
now
flashing out
crest
Breakfast over,
who had
we
so,
to
Aunt Sarah, F
upon
hillside, to
a little pathway.
We
we
we must
organise a kind of
we get at first
young mulberry- trees. Here we
wandered
for a time
131
we must
certainly be
trespassing,
But
protest.
coming
is
resigned under
so,
and
we found
perfectl}'^ safe
down on our
we had
that
to adopt a primi-
method of descent,
we
sat
for to
The
was impossible.
feet
go
hillside
way one
platform below
down
in the
said
I,
to
" Are
martyr.
the old
call
we not
Frangs
deli
(mad Franks)
a smile
**
(It
is
face.
of no consequence),
After
much
all
above,
we found
ourselves
now
equally below,
we never reached
it,
and
garden of an Arme-
we quietly
we could dis-
After a
little
rest
we
stalactites.
Jew
132
Ben
window
to
watch our
hill.
by
Another day,
will have a
other attractive
while
hotel garden.
Here the
to
me
the
towns
that,
whatever
may
be their shortcomings in
women
the
Several
men wear
in the waist,
the
fez,
ear.
The
painted handkerchief.
At
"
133
hill,
you come
masses
work.
This spot
of fallen
is
was here
it
the
hill,
cliffs
work there
bodies have
was happily
a
or sixty
fifty
every one of
The
factory
its
fall.
Leaving
we
wooden
way
is
posts.
The precaution
middle of the
rush
tearing
down
the
season of
We turn
the bazaars.
to the left,
and are
Here we come
at the entrance of
bazaar scenery
**
left
bit
with
134
their
stores
then the
jets of
saddler's,
lets
for
floor
richly embossed
with
gaudy-
mounted
in brass
sitting
roof
roof ceases,
is
with a downward
last
ment of an
light
is
relief
by the gloom of
away
directions.
to be lost,
and Colonel
utterly regardless
of
while
Aunt
Sally,
135
and myself,
at-
made
at
execution,
mony
This ware
is
in the colouring
the
prevailing tint
is
some
and
saltcellars,
pipe-shops,
ingenious
we made
after this,
ink-bottles,
little
toys
for
set
up
pipes,
more or
glass
less orna-
mouthpieces
and
Our shopping
cornelian
over,
still
him
to take
shoulder,
one
my
free
136
endured the
and
it
man was
view.
infliction
to see
One ragged
to
the tchelebi
or,
is
" Ibrahim,
right eye
triumphant haste
fact
*'Now, oh Mustafa,
making your picture ; stand still "
:
my
soul
the Cocona
is
may
doing your
"
see
it
well
lost
the
position
toes,
and looked
intensely sheepish.
;
and
coffee for
my
friends towards
Olympus.
The way
for
137
not interesting
is
you follow an
by the
police station,
At one
sional fountain.
and by an occa-
Colonel
of these.
The
contrast between
tible.
it
in
my
irresis-
sketch-book
after
swathed in
flannel,
pass-
His
ices
little bunches of
proved to be the " Caimacli dou-
dourma," or cream
ice
compound of
delicious
We
last,
after
many
rill
a turn
of clear
The
some distance by
gorge
is
human
Armenian quarter
but hastening
and passing
138
beyond a
little
pathway
Grande
Chartreuse) until
the mills.
its
is
guided in
it
were,
We
wards far
stop,
away among
blushing rose-bushes,
crags,
blossoming
round
shrubs and
threatening granite
till it
noble mountain.
mills of
Gueuk-dereh
(at
the
is
The foreground
is
the
tain-ash,
our
feet, to
all
around.
The
opposite
139
granite rock, an
tall
and
shadow over
little
shine.
down from
below
wooden
bridge,
it
far
us, it rushes
as
it
passes beneath
the light
stone arch.
Beyond
this,
among which
and there
and we can
dis-
tinguish the
Then
is
there
purple,
and
rose,
and gold-colour,
in
which we make
mountains.
It is a scene to look-
upon and
to store
140
spirit of investigation, I
so
on
that
rejoining
moment
was decided
our party,
my
with
considerably damped,
it
On our
observed the
working.
one and
women
all
window, hard
at
sitting
silk buttons,
One delicate,
we
and
pale
in the
doorway,
for-
wards
We
no one
apparently setting
it
in motion.
hands
by a string fastened
at liberty,
to
one of her
at
feet.
any
I think these
rate be accused
X.
TCHEKIRGHE.
II.
Eski Kaplidja
of
Mourad
I.
**
Waters
We
of Eski -Kaplidja.
vanni,
We
who has
just brought
the summit of
many
coming
Gio-
Mount Olympus.
up
of the
moment by
Some Armenians
this supply,
and I imagine
of the inhabitants
who would
an
infallible
remedy
in
is
cases of
considered here
rheumatism and
142
stiff joints
high
it is
is
sold at a
price.
"Well, the
of the house,
whence they
will
emerge
at dinner-
the former
be had easily
but,
to
the greater
the
the terrestrial
tribes
later,
to seek a refuge
their fate,
man
still call
who,
and Jewish
under
and came
thought they had found new Grenada
shared
the Otto-
sultans
The weather
is
delightful
away
to half the
then
143
dimming
as
the
it
passes
but soon
is
creeping away
the
Mount
over the
flit
it
it
up
in a soft radiance,
even in the
little
rise,
Mount Samanli, on
the farther
is
pointed
many
which
to
is
give
the principal
the landscape.
its silk
To the
among
help
south, the
144
mountains,
rise
and
bounding the
still
fertile
luxuriant plain,
fall
Asia Minor.
But our
is
dreamy contemplation
attention
The
our picture.
the baths
rises so
beams
close
its
supporting
roof,
while in
On
young
into sight
fruit, just
;
raise
falls straight
down,
and
all
it
ground
dips again, to
much
so,
who
is
soft fur
of
the
so
we
little
most branches of a
the road.
lofty poplar
145
turning road, which seems to plunge into a wilderness of leafy shade, a hundred yards or so farther
on
is
who
welcome the
**
Some
chestnut-tree
large
whom
fur
to
they
others, to wait
stop
We watch
Greek party
who
are on foot
little
into their
leave-taking, two
places
on
the
women
carpeting,
man
onwards
till
then there
half
gets into
follow on foot,
are hoisted
up
astride
a similar
an enormous walnut-tree.
Now other
emerging
11.
146
He
ing sleeves.
him, and
by
followed
is
his
servant on another
They
steadiness,
and
it is
is
very broad
is
Arab with
who
is
his
its
many
other weapons,
He is
lock.
Something
ward
of
else
mulberry boughs
for the
it
is
for-
a huge mass
silkworms, and
we
at
among
little
donkey.
It has a
head somewhere
fez,
a dirty boy
leaves,
is
by
full of
147
Next, three
Turkish
women
in thick white
Then
follow
some
sit astride,
is
moving
This
is
and
suffer-
bells also,
their footfall
is noiseless.
he
without a brim
yellowish
felt,
and looking
like inverted
made
of
unbaked
flower-pots; with
He
is
148
dish,
way
must account
She
astride
crinoline,
objects to being, in
is
which
perhaps
when we
he
"We
into a cage.
sud-
been watching
is
empty
for a
unceasing
the voices of
There
who
is
it rises
many
all
around
mingling with
us,
Ah
there
is
the cause
speck
is
close,
and we
see a large
hawk with
under
its
happy
breast,
little
its
now
He
brown
it
passes
strong hooked
drawn tightly up
victim.
first
un-
who comes
neck
149
mosque
Mourad
of
II.
The stork's
flight
is
is
fit
But we are
length, after
one
is
much laughing
over,
we
start
on our
having taken
Jew
off at
care, as
he
visit to
Colonel
said, to charter a
blocks.
Turning
to the left
II.,
We came
saint,
which stands
to
it
at the
150
its
surroundings,
it
front.
by various
During
it
I liked
it.
tints painted
All about
left
by time on
it
is
its
neglected surface.
caffe,
To the
delightfully in keeping.
it
and red
little
large,
street, is a
hats,
felt
sat
dervishes
belts,
An
old
and bend a
little
is
they are
forwards over
On
work entrance
is
tombs
Mourad and
151
his family.
murmur
But we
resisted
the
fascination
for to-day,
and,
and
that
seems as
if
large formless
left
to settle themselves as
Some people
will tell
best
they might.
little
or
no
of
things.
feet,
which, after
more than
all,
In
is
spite,
ground beneath
their riders,
progress.
Colonel
to paper,
152
of the advance
is
sadly
con-
to
do duty otherwise
and aggressive
sive
points,
which entangle in
oiOfen-
all
the
We
Close to
which
The
he
where
upon
it,
and a clean
soft
a tchibouk
is
leaning against
lower branches.
fierce
very
much
153
the benefit of such customers as pretend to ultra refinement, and they really look so inviting under the
flickering green
mine
shadow of the
that
we
deter-
kief,
splendid cherries
so
we take
possession of
visitors.
was going
to say a
human
being, but
all,
is
Soon
after
ceases,
tall
and
is
This spot
is
known
as
gives
its
name
to
little
154
below the grassy plateau, the largest and most important of which
is
Haramam
massive buildings,
its
noble
much
The
large
Fatma
Sultana, a daughter of
is
the tomb of
Mehemet Ghazi.
such
spreading,
lofty,
in Constantinople.
but very
kind of cedar.
them
cypresses
inferior,
may
to equal
sort,
The grove
is
a cemetery
turbaned tombstones,
square,
upright
blocks
of
rough-hewn
soft,
fresh
of the trees.
in this spot,
155
all
The earth
fore-
here, as in
many
is
of a
lies, alas
for
by the
we came
daisies.
The
village of
embosomed
in
trees.
The
graceful
and
hill
mosque
of
the
hill,
and
at the foot of
Eski Kaplidja
Hammam,
in defiance of the
to
work, Colonel
by
so,
156
brella,
made
We remained
we observed two
and
Orkhan, as historians
and
be
we had
until
us, at
tell
tower built by
that built
by Mourad or Amurath
successor of Orkhan.
It
is
Oriental
rivalling
plane-trees
that
I.,
a majestic pile.
On
some of the
one
finest
view of the
fertile
groves, orchards,
to
A covered kief
of this terrace.
whole picture.
kief,
and directly
157
in front of the
pleasant drowsy
murmur, although on a
its
close exami-
able
human
remark-
among
attribute
same breath."
in the basin
and pure as
"We
is
is
cold
crystal.
turned
to
mosque,
the
visit
seeing
the
we
condition that
slipped
and
We
off"
all
and through a
floor of
rich
the
edifice.
Amurath during an
after
conquest of
the
Adrianople,
Philippopolis,
and Apollonia.
war
of
Christian
liar
the
;
and
to
believe
it
to
have
Around the
158
base of the
dome
lie
constructed
sixteen
small
serai or palace of
still exists,
and decay.
Amurath,
though in the
Amurath
at Adrianople,
which
also completed
and enlarged
He
built another
and
hospitals.
profoundly ignorant.
He
Ragusa, he adopted the simple expedient of plunging his hand into the ink, and dabbing
it
down
at
united, the
monarch
toghra,
or imperial
out.
his
sign-
The form was adopted from that day forintended to signify the name of the reigning
;
or
being appointed to write beneath, in legible characters, the actual signification for the
time being.
may
still
169
The
interior of the
the exception of
its
mosque
at Tchekirgh^, with
peculiar form,
very
is
its quiet,
like
hushed aspect
its
straight little
much
letters
is
**
mirhab," or niche in
deposited
round the
walls,
particularly
when
imposing
have a very
which hang
lofty cupolas of
the roof.
as our guide
was very
civil
with which
all
religious
establishments
to this city.
little
It greatly
be
may
remark by travellers
words,
we may expect
rather
pleasant
rambles about
ia
much
160
apt to imagine.
may
building
cells,
We
cells,
Cir-
a few
escape
to breathe once
The narrow
staircase leading
up
tempted us to ask
if
we
could be per-
guide declared
it
has been so
severely injured
much
fall
and
a minaret
had
to be
is
over.
dislocated,
it
The minaret
by the great
consequently
to be impossible for
earth-
rather violent
The
it
staircase is
and he himself, he
with stockinged feet
abandoned, and we
left
the
to visit
handsome turbe
folding,
161
is
fallen
marble
co-
them standing,
to pieces, they
it is
true, but
together,
and
Lazarus,
ment,
King of
some
as
of Cossova,
relate,
in
his
war against
Servia.
and
before
victory
was
starting
of
dead and
Amurath leaned eagerly forward to listen, and fell, mortally wounded by the
Servian's dagger.
The dying Emir * had strength
the Ottoman leader.
enough
left to
in his favour.
* It
was not
that the
VOL.
title
II.
of Sultan
was adopted.
Amurath,
162
The death
of
Amurath
it
be favoured with
whose
lains,
office it is to
"We gazed
introduce strangers.
from the
tomb
of
his
if
He
after-
wards joined with the young Greek Prince Andronicus in an attempt at revolt.
was in
It
turbe
this
Tchekirghe
of
that
the
with the
partisans
Mohammed.
The
of his
flying,
struggle
ineffectual
effect
train at
It
more
tomb of
seemed
to
nothing
163
observing that,
he thus took
if
flight before a
him
savage had
the trembling
living,
dead
resist
the
instantly
We
are
after leaving
left,
the turbe,
to the
we have paused
at
may
side.
Before us
is
kirghe
the other
watching
the
women who
the doorway of
is
difficulty
and some
European fashion
horse a
little
looking
veil.
her party
is
she
screaming, for an
little
One lady
in
than
young
when
She continues
ready to
sitting
It is the
in
is
Round
excursion on horseback.
hanum
opened at Tche-
season,
much
lately
start,
Her women
follow,
with a brigand-looking cavass or two, and we, concluding from their manner that they quite
know
164
the
way
(whicli
we do
not),
promenade cannot
their
fail
be a pretty spot,
to
We
but
We
knew
we
went merrily
way,
arched
rose-bushes,
honeysuckle
here
again
file,
and
struggle past
stoutly per-
single
and
We
shrubs.
elder
of
and sweet-
we crush
donkeys'
Up
we came
finally
little
path
upwards, by
to a stop at a rustic
Once before
along this
little
(it
pathway
then
(for it
was
earlier in
lilac- scented,"
165
side,
the large
perfection.
the exceeding
floral
The
on
fortnight in April
last
May
idea of
and the
week
first
in
is
flowers in perfection.
Below us the
slope of the
it
till
carried
until
it
off"
the plain
down from
proper season.
are waiting to be
Beyond the
gorge
lies
its rise.
and
somewhere
Within
of rock
river
is
piles of
the dense
left
Olympus continues
hand
in the blue
away
vapoury distance,
We are
to
lie
in front,
the luko
166
I think
it difficult
for
and
coffee,
we reposed
in
flowers.
customer or two
who
smoking a narghile,
washed his
spring.
little
on a mat
sat
we
left it
how
By-the-bye,
how
But
we
is
"We took a
different
we
hill,
Kadi Kiosk,
visit to
for
we
the cave of
side.
road homewards
avoiding
to say annihilated,
by the
atro-
167
which
unknown
was clinging
to us,
grey stonework
his
and of a kind
to a projection of the
lower wall.
a sad
eyesore on
much
or, as
he
is
Mourad
I.,
but the
work of wonderful
solidity.
rooms
for patients,
wooden
piles (which,
effect
from a distance), we
adornment about
chamber
filled
it.
68
The ground
is
formed of
solid
con-
it
round aperture
now
the water
is
completely blocked up by
We
vaulted chamber.
the
it,
and
steam made
survey.
it
The waters
it
My
as
it
On
rill
might
be.
our
village,
wall of the bath some tufts of exquisite maidenhair fern, which grows there in profusion.
of ferneries
may
find
A lover
Aunt
Our
marked by no
little
Mourad
sweet
II.,
little dot,
grasping a
as long as herself,
down F
my
*8
169
muddy
dress,
when
wipe
to
the
little
creature
me
my own
hand
dis-
it
slightly.
One
it
came
it
But
these incidents
at
all
throw stones
at strangers,
am
ladies,
sorry to say, as
XI.
BROUSSA
NO.
SILK.
I.
Difficulties
tion.
Water used
The method
in
Washing the
Silk.
some
It
system
at Lyons,
may
an
discover
details of interest.
tion is
the silkworms
means
to
their
by every
BROUSSA SILK.
171
ened masters
visitors are
out reserve.
The silkworm's
seed, are
The
linen cloth.
always
is
it
its
may be washed
The extreme
all
atmo-
paring to spin,
make
it
wlQ refuse
it
it
suffer
a storm
up
if
is
pre-
into the
During the
first
mind
Every one
existence.
An
it is
curious
At
at Broussa.
weeks of summer
six
its
worm
nervous and
is
fragile
no other conversation
is possible.
the brow
heartiest
172
roll
thunder produces
Many merchants
risk
general
consternation.
be
sufficient to ruin
silkworm
for
Demirdesch
more customary
may
them.
it is
for
receive in
who
worms
in their cottages,
and
If
raise the
payment
own
leaves, which,
sum
of
money.
The mulberry-leaves
tation or
by the
load.
The
according to circumstances
been known to
sell for as
ing badly.
The
much
by the plan-
as
if
T., while
they
is
cal-
It varies
2f
from 800
more than
lbs.)
At Broussa it is commonly said that the nourishment of the worm does not affect the colour of the
silk, which depends entirely upon its species. When
173
BROUSSA SILK.
there
is
lettuce to the
weak and
valueless.
it
Some people
makes the
silk
The
who was
the
first
city.
and constant
care,
good workman
sets the
The
ants, are
little
black
then carried
Two
newed by sprinkling
it
lightly
is
re-
makes
during which
it
casts
term
from twenty-four
to thirty hours
invigorated
It
supplied
now devours
more frequently.
healthy
worm
has
174
of sleep the
worms have
a strong
mark on the
fore-
head.
Another
sleep,
issue
from
it
ever.
small
Some
stripped.
In a chamber
grove of
little
for
sleep
work in
worm
the
earnest.
cocoons a miniature
all
over the
carried in,
lose
The
floor.
no time in
trays are
installing
They climb all about, select their restand begin by making a tiny fairy hamac,
themselves.
ing-place,
in
a pale
lilac
is
white, straw-
or of a bluish tinge
the white
is
the
most esteemed.
Forty days
is
workman
till it
have consumed
If the insect
weak.
When
the
worm
is
idle
is
175
BROUSSA SILK.
of heat will
frail
ant
and precious
may
to
which these
little
it
is fatal.
In the great silk-rearing establishments at Demirdesch we found vast chambers perfectly aired, but
sheltered from draught,
for
Most of the
and
noisily
almost inconceivable.
leaves, vigorously
working
at once,
these
the worms,
who
176
their
new bed
as
it
This
of leaves.
is
an excellent plan
Many worms
creatures.
are destroyed
the
little
when they
are removed
The amount
of
work required
rearing establishment
culation that
may
in a great silkworm
and equally
fed,
and
also
kept
scrupulously clean.
laoth
away
pierces
short
its
small quan-
its
beautiful
prison-house,
life,
and
dies,
flutters
When
these are
ill
to work,
and
177
BROUSSA SILK.
this sort of
and
to their eggs.
the
harvest, all
well as the
busy
travellers.
little
to
Pedlars ?
who
are these
village?
Simple
they
still
have a
does not
who
dis-
They
rious wayfarers.
graineurs,"
'*
les
men whose
all his
for a
for the
spinning wheels
a moth.
is
used.
VOL.
Any
II.
it
becomes
is
178
cast aside as
is
Formerly, in the province of Broussa, as throughout Anatolia, the necessity for a rapid and forced
sale of their cocoons caused great loss to the poorer
peasants
tories, a
all
do,
sisted of a
little
donkey, and
the nearest
not
unfrequently happened
that
He
them on the
filled his
mule or
man
What
use.
It
heat
the great
its
silken
tomb
to revel
tree,
haste
his riches,
as
he pushes forward
which have
difficulty
literally
was overcome by
untiring energy of
Broussa
is
indebted
thropic works.
is
initiative
due
to the
BR0U8SA SILK.
179
of cocoons),
is
made
is
schools.
The
first
Four oques of
The
has an
is
silk,
but this
uncertain.
on
its
value
stream
is
so heavily
it
flows
the incline
is
This
extremely rapid.
although
XII.
BROUSSA
NO.
IT.
SILK.
Strangers
the
to the lofty
from
many- win-
at the
two ex-
which
these workshops.
It is not so,
manufactured in
however
;
the fabrikas
the silk
is
woven
by women.
great entrance-door
is
Near the
girls
courtyard.
Some
are
others, leaning
on the
and whispering
BR0U8SA SILK.
who
rest,
gong
recalls the
181
hour of
workwomen
We
to their duties.
The
at first
some resolution
is
to
deafening, and
hundred wheels,
fifty
on each
The
in,
As the new
girls are
worked by steam,
side,
requires
it
silk
has
There
is
is
trious
fields
silk
see
they
and cotton
an energetic
in
from
Working hours
to sunset
is
higher in summer
to eight piastres
182
50
injected into
from time
it
Reaumur by means
to time.
provision of
of steam
a bunch
It is
work
this
done in order
is
given to the
ends of
to detach the
The spinner
number
generally four
together between
collects
moment
passing them,
front,
it
is
is
obtained.
The
cocoon
is
exhausted.
new threads
The machinery
is
as each
so arranged
worker using
right and
to the
left.
strict
factories
at the
superintendence
overseers, both
is
maintained in these
are con-
BR0D8SA SILK.
stantly passing
183
and experience
to
to
It requires con-
do this exactly at
moving
wound
The skeins
it.
in
and
silk
bazaar
silk threads
ofi*
**
spun
silk,"
and
This
is
made
quality.
The
girls, as is
delicate
is
graceful.
The
but they
suffer terribly
and
to relieve
them
in
vitriol.
184
of yards to
make
The
a dress.
cost at Broussa is
tlie pic,
equivalent to
a yard.
is
higher.
In
Broussa gauze
is
silkiness
The
When
extremely strong.
its
washed,
evenness, acquires a
true in colour.
white, are also very successful, and from the durability of the material are less expensive
than most
French manu-
facture.
are
made at Broussa,
mixture of
silk
and
cotton, cool
towel
stuff.
celebrated
is
made
in
the rudest and most primitive-looking looms, scattered about in the cottages, but principally in a low
We visited
a mean-looking
Five of them
185
BROUSSA SILK.
were being worked by three
boys,
who
These
towels,
when
at Broussa, costing as
about
5s.
the pair
much
they are
is
as thirty piastres, or
made
fail
too well
innovation
consists of one
immense towel
or
set,
of another a
and a
third,
The burundjik, a
woven
is
largely
Asia Minor.
XIII.
Shifting
Crowd.
The
The
Robing -room.
The Hammamdji.
Sookluk. Screened Compartments and Dwelling-rooms.
Great Heat of the Springs. Picturesque Scene in the
Djamekian. Swing Cradles. Youth and Age. A Betrothal
Party. Two Brides Elect. Ceremonious " Sela'ams."
Handsome Swimming-bath. Mosaics and Coloured Tiles.
A Beautiful Bather, Touching Solicitude for an Aged
Djamekian,
or
Negress.
her name
fine
is also
vizier,
Mag-
Rustem Pasha
is
due
beyond the
last
city,
is
and labours
situated on the
This bath
bluff of the
mountain known
From
down upon
the
187
glass
(it
beneath.
The entrance
from
this,
is
in the presence of a
women and
of
boys
also,
matter of dress.
to
girls,
One
find yourself
is
many
little
of
uncomfortable just
quite
mind
it
siderate.
We had come a
with
the
but the
enough.
The
crowd
with
all,
the very
whom we must
have
spirit of enterprise,
quiet
and we sought
rest a
all
for
for
some
moment and
idea of becoming
the
188
djamekian,
some there
the
is
is
The djamekian
Hammam
is
furnished
there
is
round with a
all
feet
from the
In this
chamber, the
first
wrapped up in
towels,
When
is
the bath
after
little
The bathers
off,
dress
lie
cofiee, until
hammam
have passed
is
it,
down
yarakan (sudatorium).
In
sookluk,
shall
and encounter
bath
is
kind
is
it
is
make a day of
They
crowded.
an amount of
litter
and
hammamdji
own
mattresses
and
carpets.
The sookluk
It
is
is
189
by small windows,
lighted
The sookluk
and the
hummam
receive
The hammamdji,
pies,
money
hall.
She
women
Several bath-
Looking about
for a resting-place,
we
discovered
we
who seemed
installed ourselves
and began
to
examine
At
wooden
partitions enclosed
rooms
let
raised higher
cafesses
was occu-
may be
They command
and
airy.
190
For wealthy
for a fortnight or
seldom
if
is
sometimes hired
at a time.
Ladies of rank
more
hammam.
At
more than
one.
At Broussa
water
is
brought
evening
is
to the
it
to
them-
houses in great
in the
djamekian of
was much
number
The
pied.
From
and
hung
colours.
feradjes
Little
and from
and dra-
hammock-
191
forwards.
Some
tossed.
pened by chance
thought
upon
it
to get a
and
if
moment*s
one hap-
little
rest,
a passer-by
it
again
couches
so ruthlessly
its travels,
woman
saw infants
Turkish
its
worked
in
flies
by a gaily ornamented
gauze handkerchief.
Around us the
parties of
women on
the platforms
At
the
handsome
and faces
were bathing
Others eat
vendor,
who
is
the fountain.
women
ices,
crouched on the
clattered
of the bathing
to
and
192
bundle of the
soft
tass "
Some women
or bowl.
shoulders,
a fantastic turban.
to the
which being of
of the wearer,
silk or cotton,
is
Most
about, very
airily
nurse
left
little fairy
alone for a
moment by
of
its
prettiest little
On
much beauty to be
women were fair,
and
attractive
No,
it is
But
careless
Any-
mummy-
193
and partly a
pinkish scarlet,
it
would be
if
difficult
imagine
to
"a thing
of beauty
is
what must
elderly
fat,
woman
of
we were able
make our quiet ob-
to
had taken up
It consisted of
its
and some
One
slaves.
They
in any way.
arrival, resting
sat for
some time
and conversing, as
after their
toilettes, for
The
slaves extended
two
feradjes,
handsome striped
silk wrappers,
in
VOL.
II.
the hair
fell
suffi-
194
long
plaits.
of a respectable standing.
decorum.
When
to the forehead
then
"
On
mother-of-pearl.
hall,
respectful
salutation with
two groups
whom we
and
went
off
women
supposed to be the
by
of
of
girls,
attended
hammam.
In about half an hour, flushed and panting from
the heat of the steaming pool, they returned to the
djamekian,
more
other
all
went
through
the
salutations
once
dainties,
hammam.
Eastern
women
the
with
to
We
195
hall, pro-
There
in the centre.
is
sick animals.
The tem-
be from 28 to 30 R.
was suffocating;
It
great
it
said
is
required some
into the
resolution
to
hot water,
in
and
out,
away a few
It
desired,
The
by taking
The hammam
notice.
when
and
is
down
The
com-
while
above
is
gilt,
196
delicate white
marble fountain
is
so
set in
formed as
to enclose a
The spring
stated to
mark 68 R.
at
is
refilled, so
that bathers
who
are the
first to
full of
supported by
gourds.
windows in the
Some were
lofty cupola.
One handsome
girl
was lying
at
admiration.
The charm
fully heightened
we stopped
in
by the broad
stripes of
her wet
silk
197
slightly support-
back in a stream of
fell
glistening ripples.
that
in
up our old
Whilst waiting
become
to
air,
sufficiently
we were much
A poor
old negress,
by two white
invalid
girls
was helped on
women
rose,
to the mattress
much
which had
gentle care as
Most
likely she
if
was
slave.
xiy.
Law.
IssA, Pelasgia, Lesbos, Macaria,
celebrated
names
for
might we venture
venerable from
named
"
its
The Pearl
many
Mytilene how
to
great antiquity
it
And
list
would be
To the
island
of
was on these
its
head
in the
Was
it
island.
The remains
visible,
still
of
and ancient
of
centuries,
to please themselves,
its
women,
It is the land of
poetry.
six centuries
pupil, the
"
The
Distaff," *
hundred
lines of her
poem,
* This
mixed with honey from the Muses her three hundred lines are
equal to Homer's, and she a maiden of nineteen years a worshipper
;
200
motlier,
who disapproved
of
She submitted
who held
a class of rhetoric
friend of Tiberius,
and Potamon,
at
have
It
all
his son,
was
stantinople
was married
to
The
last Christian
fall
of the Greek
forts,
credible
isle.
emperor of Con-
left
number
at
thirteen thousand.
But the
it its
name
of Castro,
would
its
Genoese princes.
It
is
who
and
it,
The
filled
size,
up that only
traffic
Austrian Lloyd's
the
travellers
an opportunity of enjoying
sea,
line
do not attempt
to enter
dis-
it
It
is
happens even
found impossible
towards Smyrna.
its
route
The boatmen
amount
Tenedos
a small
island
renowned
but
of
its
its
its
202
soft
evening haze
then
is fol-
the city.
The
all
meet on the summit of the rocky crag that overhangs the harbour.
At
may
so in-
if
The town
of Mytilene,
which the
first
southwards to the
The
sides,
One
is
is
rarely
met with
in the East.
pression.
The
and surpasses
fine race, of
exclusively.
it
in the industry
fertility,
In a population of
it
almost
100,000
souls.
They
are,
may
this estimate of
be considered as foreigners.
Islands.
The
part landowners.
is
but,
unknown
in
its
principal wealth.
many
on
stiff
places, particularly
mountain
slopes,
agement.
Each
separated from
tree,
In
may
its
neighbours,
often
may be
tion of oil
stated that
amounted
the
less well
culti-
be
above
seen
it
man-
side to maintain
fields
In
To give
olive in Mytilene,
300,000 quintals.
Mulberry-trees
for
the use
the island.
The commerce
204
a
malady
of the worms,
and
little
use
is
now made
The wine
times,
of Lesbos,
celebrated in
so
is
renown.
ancient
day
its
old
of adding elder-
it
The
three harbours
Kalonia
the largest
that of Sigri
inlet,
is
is
known
as the
Harbour of the
principal town,
is
There are
from the
sheltered
the land
sea,
lie
there at ease.
The abundance
of running water
climate of
East.
and of mineral
nothing of their old healing virtues, and the erection of a simple but well- organised bathing estab-
One
fail to
be a successful speculation.
known
of these springs,
as Polichnito,
100, is used
from
by the neigh-
quickly ready.
three districts
Castro, Molivo,
and Kalonia.
Castro
is
is
made
of
this
castle,
but no
neighbourhood.
At
regiment
is
fortress.
Near
to this spot,
tomb surrounded by a
fine cypress.
local celebrity.
Bey
may
be seen a Mussulman
gilt railing
and shaded by a
agreeable
206
manners, and
Mahmoud
from Constantinople,
cast
anchor
before Smyrna.
exchanged
had
is
II.
light,
visits,
named
It is said
To
you
will
He
after
shore,
is
in
The
he resigns himself
to
it,
fate.
built
him a
On
hill that
we
south,
find
cypress-trees.
a sign that
by superior authority.
He
Ebul-Hassan-Ben-Hassan.
" cheriff
*'
The teke
stones
fresh
and
now
is
in ruins,
their marble
owing
time
and the
to the purity of
disjointed
left,
was at one
the air
lean
to right
in
ram-
one of the
It is to
Kemal Bey,
They
tions is due.
fill
up an important void
in the
national history.
Some
Mytilene.
who, four
who
The
first
died by poison at
Osman
III.,
same manner.
death.
The
One only on
the
exile in the
list attests
a natural
208
man who
name, "The
no onions."
eats
deserves notice
inscription
last
it
speaks
The last
Bahhl
of
of
He was
where he died of
The
more
delicate model,
dark,
wavy
hair, long
of a bluish-grey
the women, on a
have expressive
fine eyes
And
young
moment
the
with
features,
From
men
tall,
is
the paradise of
such
is
girls.
and
The eldest
They begin at
daughter
particularly favoured.
is
The mother
As
assist at the
loom.
spinning-wheel, the
distaff,
and the
of finished
stuff,
younger daughters.
It
is,
for the
who
eldest
mansion
it
up
she
it is
who
is
even carried
home and
its
comfortable ease, in
may
at once
When
man
is
suf-
he will build
it
entirely.
When
lished.
there
is
their
allow.
may be found
they
although
manners
made
in vain to obtain
The
justice for
all.
effected.
VOL. u.
I*
210
all
the
men were
dis-
man a protector,
home, who might be also
What
when a
boat
horizon
religion
to
It
and of their
endow the
race.
of their
could be procured.
garments
all sides
and
XV.
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO.
I.
it
would seem
unknown and
traveller.
artistic
unvisited
and intelligent
tourist
a land of mountain
fertility,
pitable race, in
Roman
origin can be
clearly traced.
*'
may
be reached, from
is less
212
Roman
by
....
lect
dia-
Rome
used in
and
Cicero.*'*
many
of nature, there
artist,
is
of
known
forests of almost
of exquisite softness
most
fertile
striking
un-
countries in Europe
in the
soil
;
amazing
of one of the
To the
who can
traveller
some inconvenience
and
cheerfully submit to
no traveller
is
worthy
of
visit to
the mountain
may be
accomplished
the
ease.
so
There
* Ubicini.
is
no necessity to
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
213
damp
the
stay.
cities
to
In a
and
You
No
of travellers.
liberal
present
to
remuneration
is
exacted, but a
the
The
writer, with
people to
visit
beautiful wilderness in
ated
first
English
situ-
much
Those who wish
its
to see
turies of picturesque
fetill
lingers,
of past cen-
visit.
214
Saddle horses
may
own
The
saddles.
car-
hooded
with
chaises,
sufficient
room
excursions
and
on a
The
it is
and fatiguing.
On some
it is
ritza
two persons,
A third traveller
may occupy
for
raft.
carriages cost
An
arrange-
own
horses.
It
It
excursionists,
For a
may be
rented at a very
low charge.
Two
or three
ladies
travelling alone,
with
may
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
visit all parts of the
215
safety.
lightfully cool,
is
de-
indis-
pensable.
The currency
same
as the
is
gold twenty-
The
about 16.
During
were
visited,
this
When
time
three days, having sleeping carriages and an excellent " restaurant " in
fares
the train.
All railway
may be easily
may be roughly
ascertained.
Those in Roumania
three
XYI.
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO.
ADAM, JASSY.
IT.
We
left
Bucharest
in
June,
tion
is flat
and uninteresting.
by a night
1884,
We
had picked
friend,
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
The aim
217
of
our wanderings
byways of Rou-
in these
provinces.
The
worn out
all travelling
own unaided
to our
bar-
alone haTe
resources,
this
and we
left
shall always
hurry of progress we
general
had irreverently
We
my
little station,
the
waiting to be hired.
interest,
of dust
and vociferous
made with
across
are quickly
offers, until
its
proportion
an agreement
is
and further
been
settled.
four
little
but
it is
not without
away with
sum
much
disdain, return,
of 25 francs has
horses
harnessed
abreast
wherever there
is
but,
after
hung about
we enter
a convenient projection,
218
with a
it
Not
sigli
at all
is
over.
for about
It is set
its
row
sently poor
Bar
The
driver,
He
has been
by another of his race more crafty than himThey make a great show of unstrapping the
luUage to deposit it in the muddy road. The other
joined
self.
we must bend
to the inevitable
no help
is
make
for
a fresh
infliction in
less
The Jews
evil,
the
called.
**
in
Roumania
are a great
and
serious
by
is
most
felt
by the
Roumania
is
to drink
Almost
and every
all
sort
the trade of
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
the Government
is
doing
evil, it is difficult to
219
its
driver,
was
also a typi-
The road
nothing to recommend
had
except an abundance of
it
ing sun.
our destination,
to
first
;
it
is
hay has
also
spreading plane-tree
stop
overshadows a swing-
we
soldier,
and
is
it
returning
from conveying what our worthy Bar calls a " foolwoman " to the hospital for lunatics in the Monastery of
Adam, which
place
is
turning to the
left,
and the
carriage,
is situated.
An
arched gate-
220
way under a massive tower leads to a large quadrangle. As in most similar establishments, the princhurch occupies the centre
cipal
lings surround
it
on three
sides,
we
find
the
"fun-
reception of tra-
vellers.
on white columns.
The monastic
garden
We
while
plots,
and their
little
through
many
little
who
cloistered.
the enclosure
We have
we have
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
221
and
coffee,
and,
not long
afterwards,
;
up
serves
Our
inka,
**
was baptised
name.
it
as Caliope.
is
time being,
comfortable.
is
make us
from Bucharest.
"Buon^
room a large
Our
first visit
was paid
to the
Maica
Staritza, the
lady, related to
is
for she
was brought
to the
222
monastery when
led
up
is all
flat.
There
the
She
infant.
The dwelling
by a small garden.
to
on one
more than an
little
lives in
is
penetrating as a
plicity to
bell,
and seems
The sound
as
is
of the enclosure.
The
interior of
the church
is
by many
tapers,
was
stifling,
One
The costume
it
falls
in
is
or velvet, according
One end
Round
exceedingly good.
wearer.
is
veil over a
circumstances of the
to the
of the veil
the
cap of serge
is
left
shoulder.
The
The
all
"fool,"
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
223
and
herself incessantly
hands
air,
church.
We were
wrought gold
set
mag-
round of
visits
we went
with a very bright, energetic lady, the Maica Yustina Fil^b^iu, one of the heads of the community.
I think she
is
Up some
steps,
On
garden and orchard, you find the drawingroom and dining-room, with two good rooms at back
vista of
A piece of brown
cloth
is
is set
up.
in course of manufacture.
224
The
ladies in
Houmanian convents
are celebrated
of water
custom
coffee, a
universal Eastern
articles
veil,
bright-coloured
carpet,
as
and
the widestrips of
some
Many
spin, weave,
of these
and work up
the material.
The next
She
is
rich
is also
becoming
The elegant
of black velvet.
to the beautiful
is
wonderfully
is
furnished
The
floor is
stuffs
on
handsomely carpeted,
elegant
trifles,
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
225
and friends
in the various
means
in
life
must con-
Roumania
is
not an
One
uncommon
with vanilla
sort
delicious
elsewhere
we found
pieces of angelica
Our sprightly
for the
we blundered through
the
words of French
brings
hanks of silk of her rearing and spinning, a most exquisitely delicate work, intended for a grenadine veil.
Each of
the
them 148
francs a year
the community at
were
Adam,
received as very
known no
other
life,
came
into force in
fresh
member under
the richer
own
members
property.
of
Most of
as in similar monasteries,
little
children,
and have
1864
it is
men must
II.
226
life
througli-
out Eoumania.
There are
fifteen
Adam, comprising a
village school.
visits,
the energetic
hill,
a
sit
by
their reminiscences of
during a
five- weeks'
sojourn in Moldavia
our
little
party that
it
and I may
should be
The
bell,
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
the bells
227
pray in the
(N.B.
The
downpour
clouds were
promising a convenient
any moment.)
at
First a
which she
strikes with
a mallet in a jaunty
all
Five priests
They
is
There
is
great
resolve into a
effective?
heavy
But the
prevented our
visit
Was
rain.
rain, otherwise
to the
so
beneficial,
lunatic asylum
under
Lady
visit
of farewell
who has
228
We
We
had known
these kind " religieuses " for two days only, but I
experienced a
Staritza kissed
human
pang
little
and blessed us
probability
we should
all,
of regret, as the
no
more.
We
difficulties to
woman
in her charge
and the
little
community
wise government,
when
a brisk
delightful
the earth
Adam
We
Here there
The
days.
station
seizes
the
box.
Bar
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
who
What
affair of his.
Our
shortly expected.
summons the
a bargain
paid, the
says
The
it is
The
in the town.
no
train is
interpreter,
polite
is
after rapid
done
to be
and dashes
oflScial
is
229
sides,
box
restored,
to
to
It is a comfortable carriage,
smooth our
normal
state of placid
The scenery
meadow-land
The
ruffled feathers
is
as
we
and we need
and return
it
to our
enjoyment.
roll leisurely
pleasant, but
by no means exciting.
away on our
left-
After
to
delay,
deposited beside us in
We
insist,
to
230
ascertain
The
awakened.
just
attendants,
aroused to the
up
tea,
ingly comfortable.
ing arrival,
Paris
is
we
clean
finally
the mistress, a
obliging,
the
excellent,
service good,
Frenchwoman, very
the
indeed, would
ham
most
tribe migrated
most
restaurant
fairly reasonable.
Turkish tra-
but Roumanian
ignores
as
celebrated conqueror.
At
shops on either
side,
and the
fine
hotels,
Hotel Trajano.
and cheap
riolet,
The
you get a
Two
fifty
centimes
(five-
To
Amongst
fare is doubled.
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
231
fifty
centimes
is
ices.
At
the time
off
The
was
built
It
had been
set
on
fire
outside at
It
has since
man who
is
monument.
As
far
as
it
is
The whole
is
covered with
232
Many
The
around.
interior
is
still
vaulted recesses,
are
also,
Some low
saints.
framed by beautifully
It is almost worth the
St. Nicholas,
was
built
fifteenth
century.
is
The narthex
disfiguring whitewash.
is
its
of this edifice
lofty.
Jassy, with
and
its fine
interest,
felt
The wood
Roumanian
ballad.
a haiduk
XYII.
EOUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO.
III.
The Monastery of Secu. The Parente Arfun Hospitality. Foundation of Secu. Nestor and
Metrofana. Fortifications. The former Importance of the
Monastery. The Refectory. " Mamah'ga."^-8tart for Sikla.
The Bullock Cart. Our Escort. Parente Samuel. Armed
Monks. Sylvan Glades. The Forest. A Wild Mountain
Track. Magnificent Scenery. An Uncomfortable Slope
towards the Precipice. The Monastery of Sikla. A Venerable Staritz. Origin of the Chapel of
Theodora.
Peaceful Scene. Parents Samuel's Curls. A Mountain
Storm. Suhastria.
Charming Drive.
darah.
St.
About a week
we were
at Bal-
teteshti, a small
to
baths,
two of
us,
taking
to
and
en-
Our way
lies
234
turning
tery.
left
is beautiful
off to
It
which we pass
the
the usual
picturesque swing-wells so
imagined
On
again,
more
stony track,
then, entering on a
we endure
by
We
drive
up
rough-headed
its
metal-
where a
tion,
a peasant,
silver.
monk
and
a few jolts,
and
we
are the
first
English who
an instant's inspec-
nor dangerous
evil
stair-
summon
This
official
r
f
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
235
seemed
We
are
shown
travelling
pay a
visit to
is
being prepared we
a very
then proceed to
visit
ing precincts.
As
and
in all
Roumanian
monasteries,
left
monks
several
We did
it
official,
The
sick
man
is
sixteen villages.
it
with
gift of the
founder
thus Secu at
236
a very hand-
in their old
some provision.
time.
church, in which
died.
is
a picture representing
In the
The
on either
choir,
of Nestor
of her
stall,
side,
showing a
and Metrofana.
fortifications of
much
damaged and
destroyed.
War
of
Independence
but
princes, this
it
until reduced
by famine.
hand, which
extremely strong,
loopholed,
at
is
monastery was
is
uninjured
resistance.
left
it is
It
was
chiefs of
the
movement organised by
Ypsilanti,
troop.'* *
EOUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
237
the
concerned in
assassination of Vladimiresco.
monk
pointed out to us an
we
to
make
out
meaning
its
Bar, as usual,
S^u now
testifies to its
large
wander
great refectory,
vanished importance
visit the
We
;
it is
used
preacher or reader.
"mamaliga;" but
lected, as if the
it all
of
the
establishment;
throughout Roumania
fowls well cooked, the
the bread
exquisitely delicate,
mamaliga
XJbiciui.
soft.
as
the
It id cus-
238
tomary
is
to serve this
stiff
porridge of maize-flour
with a string.
it
There
not everyone
it is
mamaliga
who can
succeed in
making the
soft.
The burly
it,
for
After dinner
our
coffee,
much
we
sit
to sip
well-kept
through several
visitors'
years,
before.
noon
it
would be impossible
for
that after-
to
ROUMANIAN MONASTEEIES.
shall
On
freshness of a
still
239
morning
we
escort.
on a
On the wide
heavy dew,
as
we
unbroken
are
forest,
invigorating.
Our
little
is
thus composed
two
tiful
oxen of
this
is
country
cream-coloured,
soft eyes.
dis-
with
The
cart
it
soft
the
is
covered,
sitter
first
whom
is
vehicle.
to subside
At
the
attendant.
There
is
he discharges
one with a
pistol,
which
240
by a checked handkerchief.
in thick
brown
by a
cord,
Our interpreter,
brimless caps.
We roll along
very pleasantly at
flowering
tall
grasses,
down a
over mea-
first,
The movement
of the
cart,
is
delightful.
spirits.
also,
so gently
waving in the
as the path
away.
and we begin
look,
to ascend a road
full of
sometimes,
it
strains
then a
effort.
before
he hangs on
to the
Our mounted
one rides
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
movement
241
They
in the rear.
at the oxen.
then
firs
trunks
fallen,
some with
Gigantic lime-trees,
to
an amazing height
as they
lie,
^have
half-buried in
One
monarch
had stretched
of the forest
remove
More
it
it
its
was impossible.
fearful dips
mountain
splendid
falls
away
Now
the
left,
we go
slowly on,
precipice,
sodden leaves.
California
shirts.
way
is
and
broad
their
It
The
slouch
hats
directing
'*
fathers "
still
one in front,
but
with that
II.
uncomfortable
242
drivers,
more straining
efforts of the
goaded beasts;
down
There
are
is
and
ladies,
his place
how
a party of Boyards
Sikla in a cart
drawn by
six oxen.
At
this
to
same
when one
of the drivers
territied
on the opposite
side.
for a
was comfortable
that
it
was necessary
to return
At length the
fired off to
poor
little
monastery of Sikla.
A mild-looking
''
father,"
who proved to
us,
all
be Staritz,
in one,
came
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
243
cart.
He
venerable and
fluttered
though the
first
He
is
leasf
ladies, al-
leads us to a
ofier us
good mountain
brings us a
little
his precautions,
'
air,
milk
he
delicate bread,
We
my
mouth.
wander on the
of Sikla
is
a poor
wooden planks
wood
laid closely
style of roofing
The church
hillside to sketch.
little
This
is
commou
The small
monastery, containing three or four apparently unfurnished rooms above the rude cowsheds
a covered
On
forest.
244
On
towards Niamtz.
the
left
and mountain
little
on
its
ash,
grey
which
Cave.
The
Who
time.
The name
of
may have
Theodora
is
been we
generally
and crime
at length,
and retired to
and
solitude.
many
peaceful shelter.
cano,
One day a
its
which
is
it
persons.
Whilst waiting
to the
summit of the
The
its
perfect
fences in these
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
made
as
it
245
scarcely high
enough
asked.
"Do
is
is
nothing
" was
left to
take
All
the
they came
they are
woven
rest.'*
There
is
the gentle
little
sitting
on a shaft of the
cart,
combing
life,
seem impossible
to that
is
smile would
woe-begone countenance,
jet, soft
and glossy as
felt cap.
satin,
They
are
them
is
On
for
Roumanian monks.
for
my benefit
a large bunch
246
of wild strawberries
and
leave,
and
bilberries
but
time to
it is
which can
we make
which he
very grateful.
bells (an
unusual
its
difficult horse-track.
Our road
would be
so steep
The sudden
The worst
is
past.
We
are once
more on
level
Our
team,
complete
again,
dragging us as
to force their
way through
are
The thunder
rolls
majes-
ROUMANIAN M0NA8TERIRS.
and nearer, and the
are not far from the
sort of
247
Happily we
rain, a torrent.
little
" skite
**
of Sohastria
depending on Secu.
'*
We
we
splendid gallop as
meadow
There
This
is
no gateway.
down another
is
easily
remedied
we dash through
division), to
some
(crushing
The
place
is
may
we
inhabited by
all
absent in
pass.
There
freshly
is
mown hay on
the greensward
hay
relish.
The injury
is
not serious,
who
coflfee
showed that
davian oxen
Douman, Pluvan,
Yello,
and Tchokolan.
248
we
but
must be
visit
it
all,
the grati-
fications distributed.
must
sacrifice
rary
at
two
piastres; but
one
and entertainment
fishing trap
was bought by
A beautiful little
We purchased
and a
bottle
also
of
to
at Paris.
what he
called
eau de melisse,
finally
from the
fortress
delightful,
monastery of Secu.
the horses
fresh,
the
road
turned
excellent.
XVIII.
EOUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO. IV.
DURAU,
From
Piatra.
Tomb
liaft.
The
four
little
in
five,
to start.
and
at that
The gar9on
very weakest
cofiee,
helps to stow
away our
is
250
to
peak in this
some 8,000
district of the
feet
We rattle
Carpathians
tlie
highest
Tchaklau
down
suburbs.
river
trilling joyously;
verandahs
as,
leafy slopes,
its
background of
and
fall
of a blue band
the Bistritzathe
On
the
moun-
Beyond
all this
is
The road
is
delightful.
we
see
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
251
We alight in
is
it is
not
The monastery
portant of those
of Bistritza
still
is
monk hands
existing in Roumania.
It
was
celti
first wife,
Domna
The tomb
of a
The church of
but this
stalls
the screen
is
relieved
and by the
is
tone
of
the
beautifully
windows.
The Superior
of the convent
is
a good-looking
is
much
life
his
visited
by Roumanians.
Its neigh-
252
bourhood
to Piatra
it
and
a favourite
Not
so the large
left
and whitened
is
wooded height
fortress,
but
on a neighbouring
turreted,
grey
We
strong-looking,
two
soldiers.
mania have
Yery many
since the
property in 1864
of the convents in
secularisation
been
Rou-
of n^onastic
prisons, or asylums.
We
continue our
way
left,
forest-
which the
rafts are
shooting
We
way
handled.
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
reach the straggling village of
violent storm
never long
drives
inn.
(including
sold
when a
Hangii,
passes
is
253
English
and Colman's
starch
necessary of
first
where everything
to feed solely
life
bread.
on mamaliga,
Butter
known
salted cheese,
frugal diet
women
rustic
environs,
us as
men
to
is
un-
than their
the
seem
it is
full
share in
all
we endeavoured
in gala dress
watched
from the
some
swing-well with
its
Mrs.
for
which she
It consisted of
and sleeves
a large
stiff
a girdle of
many
and a long
scarf-
254
wound about
veil that is
and becomingly.
There
much
is
less of
costume to
Queen
en-
there
is
influence of
The
French
rain clearing
fashions.
off,
we
start
we
intend to pass the night and the folio wing day, Sunday.
progress.
difficult p5i.rt
at
of
our
Hangu,
to
by innumerable streamlets
these
are
not
and misty in
his
judgment
little
little horses.
slid
back at every
rise in the
mud.
saw- mill in
full activity,
ground,
and undig-
floated
from
down
foot
to
from
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
255
the ground.
ful dexterity,
like light-
ning.
We leam
half-an-hour's
assured that
distance, but it
we have not
convent
is
is
still
at
cheering to be
Here
broad meadow
is
smooth and
flat
hooded
nitza,
cabriolet, drive
The
last
We have
meadow by
showing enmity, he
first
Far from
we
are in-
come
us.
The greeting
is
comes forward
to wel-
The Staritz
nil.
The monastery of Durau does
of other monasteries, draw any
family,
It stands
256
reduced to
its
own
the poor
community
little
foreigners
They have
and
a tradition that
in
are
still
remembered in
convent of the
this distant
May we
tion.
of that little
men
They gave us
it
was needful
genuine traveller
able inconvenience.
cured, no
cheese,
drite,
meat, no fowl
Our
host,
an archiman-
and
to be pro-
company.
then
sits
with us
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
257
it falls
be-
then
soft
It breaks
away on the
On
whitewashed church.
It
is,
we
as
an
try to forget
it
in the
bell- tower
the
little
farther back
On
either
white heads of
lily
and
roses,
pilas-
with
trailing wreaths of
of
Now
slopes in front.
VOL.
II.
fill
258
Parente Hilarion, in
As we
sit
memory
to retain
structing a
young neophyte
nastic literature.
his lesson,
in the elements of
comes out
to stare at us,
in-
mo-
finished
and remains
Soon
figures
women.
animated by brighter
a dozen or so of Transylvanians,
They have
men and
work
they will
mass in the
There
of Tchaklau.
is little
difierence in dress to
the race
is
fairer
man and
coin to stand
for a
by the promise of
The next
at
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
by the
prayer
monk
259
more
bell
from
familiar call to
wood with a
Then
mallet.
There
edifice.
a poor old
is
man
another
who
may
himself as well as
for a
little pupil,
lame
shrouds
lowed by his
is
He
falling
is
he
is fol-
Georghi.
sent us in the
morning a splendid
lily
was
He
is
think
it
a cousin of the
sent,
by
us,
many
We
to climb to the
to search
way very
He had
difficult.
of
it
on
foot.
have been
is
told that
down upon
most remarkable.
260
moss and
of the eidelweis.
new
is
to take
Monday morning, we go up
to
The
peasants
work.
The dwelling
By
eight o'clock
is
We
one or two of the poor old fathers, and of the beautiful dog,
his cordial,
though
strangers.
visit
has expressed
Our worthy
interpreter was so
much
and we saw
forest, ex-
Can
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
The
all sorts
of ruts
and
pitfalls
trees,
and
tall grasses
safer
heavy
without upsetting.
it is
stand
261
The
ferns.
driver's
presumably
he has
futile
mamma, who
is
now
seen striding
The
but short
and
We
bounded on one
side
by the
raised trough
is
down
where the
floats
are
made
Galatz.
trough;
the planks
it is
is
sets
their travels.
to
shipped at
a block in the
when hard
workman soon
accumulate, and,
and the
and thence
to the Sereth,
great proportion of
up,
262
cart,
and
go up through a neglected orchard to inspect a halfruined building, which proves to be the " skite " of
Hanghu.
so rich
It has a
remarkable.
situation
is
not
place
He had
appa-
am
making out
ment
We
were further
At 11.30 we
forester
who had
We
dis-
upon us
at Piatra
He came with
us to the
so kindly called
down
we
us,
and took a
We
we
is
An
men
are
hour has
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
come
First they
float.
263
and
to
them
meadow
ing.
float is
it
malities have to be
gone through
of the
wood
to be verified,
The clouds
we begin
We beguile the
It is very long,
loosely
we done
so,
sides,
much
of
and a very
us,
last
down
way
in
had
no sun to
float
incommode
at
between
At
time in
pegs.
seat,
more
and worked
attached
deep
Another exofficial
by paddles
both ends
wooden
raft.
the consignment
the missing
to feel anxious.
examining the
for-
not to be found.
search of
in
patience
is
our
and
apparently ready,
is
still
all is finished
haste, but
When
At
we start, and
when something gives
We
are
264
rope,
and
It
is
the
life
in the
first
neces-
sary of existence.
down the
are
fortunate that
is
men
and we have
men
Our
festivity
was going
on.
ceedingly skilful.
He
a slender girl's.
feet,
The man
man
(skilled raftsman).
Now
begins the
first
month
since
we had
and we
started,
we might
had been
cease
but no,
it
continues
we think
it
down
thankful
almost call
hitherto exceptionally
now
but
felt
it
it
It pours
must soon
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
We
sit
in pools of water
baggage
265
This heavy
soaking.
is
rapidity,
making
had expected.
we
it
much more
rious,
It is well to try to
tritza,
(!)
remember that
glo-
It is very fine,
rain.
a narrow gorge.
we
wooded
all
sometimes quite
is
The
rapids have
boiling
sea
with
seem
to advance to
man
is
meet the
churning the
thrown on
little, lithe,
strain
muscular body
immovable
gliding onward.
Hours pass
of the river.
on,
and
still
Now we
we turn bend
after
bend
266
great
buttress of
black
the
current rushes,
swift
its
base
is
some
and our
disaster,
we cannot reach
we must be
Protest was
The day was fast sinking gloom was setdark and drear over the swollen river and the
useless.
tling
rafts
In sad
forest-clad mountains.
steered on to a
muddy
Here they
tell
we may perhaps
us that
get a con-
if
we
der chance.
It is
crowded with
soldiers in undress,
We
The
conclude
that
this
festive
gathering
has
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
267
a minute.
conveyance
make room
but he will
ladies;
It is a private
crowded with
is
one.
for
we must go together
We
or not at
The owner
of.
coachman
his
of the
parcels,
are three
all,
is
yet to
not to be
little chaise,
with a
and we crowd up
Happily the
five
where
carriage does
little
frail
if
happened.
It
is
ten
we reach
o'clock before
fearfully limp
and
pectedly collapsed,
helpless condition.
am
Piatra, in a
had unex-
strong
my
friction with
They
Not
least
among
268
tlie
band
infliction of a brass
hotel.
it
chiefly native
airs,
On
down the
we prepared to leave Piatra to seek medical
advice and rest among the comforts and civilisation
of Yienna, giving up with much regret the latter
the eighth day after our wet voyage
Bistritza
to visit
It
We
by the Danube.
left Piatra
good-will.
with
many mutual
The expenses
expressions of
and we
felt
really
sorry to say good-bye to these worthy people, particularly to the household drudge, Maritza,
tears in her eyes as she looked after us
doorstep.
feet,
order
who had
from the
attire
in
BOUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
bin^
bin^
tar^
and
it
remembrance as much
had
fee she
269
so well earned
cheerful service.
It
was an extremely
dirty,
station
We
Zecklers,
lock-carts,
women
in
search
of
work.
harvesting
The
it
most gro-
some
stifi"
it
is
band, and
We
ing as
reach
we
Roman
the entrance of
all
Roumanian towns
is
is
exacted at
at the
same
XIX.
IN CRETE.
NO.
In
CANEA AND
I.
ITS
ENVIRONS.
the
Harbour
of
Arrival at Canea.
One
bright
entered
tlie
May moming,
the
since,
tween
a few years
massive
battlemented
walls
the
of
What
a picturesque scene
What
of
the
arsenal
this port of
the
vanished
Candia
Mark
its
ruins
glories
of
there;
shelter
boldly sculptured on
singular
recall
still
golden sunlight,
to
its
defy
palm-
IN CRETE.
271
trees, seen
decay of
all
The
surrounding objects.
little
boats
make no
the question by
painting,
on either
side of
the
day.
At the
cannon
the shore,
haK
Venetian occupation
relics of the
on
lie
their feet
and
all
reflected
is
in water
of
the
The boat
(the
sufficient
coast,
Great
Candia, a
Fortress)
name
remain in
does not
the
that
call
is
is
Megalo Kastron
Venetians
called
it
Kirit,
Some hours
stead before
Rethymo,
at the
foot of
the fortress
272
the west
by
the town.
show the
a few
position of
swelling hills
upon the
compose
of E-ethymo,
all
shore,
and
far off
Mount
to
the
At length
the
rolling
the
slackens;
breeze,
who may be
interests,
a bad sailor
the traveller
comes back
mundane
to
all
drew me
that
at
Italian,
and I discover
Candia a Latin
brethren in
and
sandals.
full
is
explaining,
Canea
does not
273
IN CRETE.
This
by Brother Geronimo a
merry, and most obliging
harbour
is
offer is briskly
quick,
Sicilian,
who,
urged
active,
soon as the
as
of a large
may be
all
observed that
goods arriving in a
from duty.
In a few
we
minutes
quietly threading,
are
little
escorted
friars
ladies,
with
servant,
reached,
and conversation,
Black
coffee is
we hear
rest ?
is,
as
absolutely empty
The telegram sent from
Rethymo had preceded our arrival only by a few
yet,
minutes
to
the
VOL.
What was
inevitable ?
II.
to
be done
Doubtless
T
? resign ourselves
for
the
Sicilian
274
brother
He
is
convent
he borrows of the
Sisters, of the
neighbours
so
much
activity
patience.
The
first
pointment
is
no view
principal artery of
commerce
a disap-
is
narrow
in Canea.
but the
the
street,
Well,
let
satisfied,
The passers-by
us be
esting,
to
so quiet
life
here, in spite
At
fixed
ways.
few
is
shutters,
some fastened
rough pavement.
it is
side-
and mules
One hears
There
out.
On
is
window
let
us look
well-built house.
three shops
The
cafe.
IN CBETE.
275
The ground
and a small
a chemist's, a grocer's,
first floor
upon
in thick braids
sips
her black
of little
falls
coffee, indifferent to
background, an
air
of time
false notes.
and leather
fill
On
whilst a
little
on a sack of
little
The grocer
flour,
Arab blacks
Arab, wearing
mutton,
himself, care-
yellow-white
a real
turban.
He
leather.
sack,
is
tall,
handsome youth,
and energetic; he
vigorous,
straight,
carries a goat's-hair
the
the knees
sively supple,
to
and supposed
to protect the
wearer
276
little
Greek
from
islands
much open on
cotton,
fez, soft
Two
on small
stools at
open-mouthed
to a
fusta-
tassels.
at the cry of a
group
of negro hamals,
culty, carrying,
fills
by a
dijffi-
the street,
The negro
sort of
measured
howl.
The population of Canea is by this time in moveThe Arab women flit by enveloped in white
ment.
winding-sheets
ancient
or
modern customs
carriages at Canea.
A chant which
277
IN CRETE.
funeral.
differs
in
many
respects
the coffin
and
is
is
Mussulman
The
Cretans.
bier
is
silk veils
garland of
artificial flowers,
mixed with
gold, sur-
carried forwards.
while
it
It
'is
funeral train.
at every
The
minute
and a meritorious
is
kept up by the
for
them
it is
action.
mosque
city
later
time
is
street,
A little
again heard.
This
coffin,
which
is
covered in
man
by the
he
is
followed
incense-bearers.
On
all
278
closed as if
by magic
is
on the busy
falls
street,
and the
government
You
is
the centre
steamboat
The
houses.
offices,
consuls, as also
ground
at half-an-hour's
The
principal streets
Canea
bered.
stone houses
still
of Montferrat.
It
The Venetians
later.
279
IN CRETE.
In 1669 Crete
and
fell
at a later time
to the celebrated
Egypt.
of the
Mehemet
It subsequently
Ottoman Empire.
all
Levant.
Canea
is
renowned
cloth, as well as
and
The
softness.
Christian, spin
and
In the
tions,
districts
be found
still
in colours,
and
who
prefer any
modern
tinsel to the
H.B.M. Consul
in Crete,
heavy splen-
lately
resi-
large and
beautiful
bought at
280
knows how
woman
make
to
by them
as wearing
apparel.
its
perity to
where
him
universal
good roads
that
fortifications
Bay
some
great
a service of street
and
(if
I mistake not)
minor improvements.
conferred
good-will.
such as the
industrial enterprises
a fine public
his gentle,
and other
on Canea an appearance of
civilisation
A good hotel is
Crete
without
it
still
tourists can
its
wanting in
spot.
the
at Suda, but
its
and shortly
re-
281
IN CRETE.
to Crete
and conjecture
A gen-
an English
tourist,
who was
also
en-
What
new-comer began
make painted
the country
but
mean ? The
the most inofiensive manner to
in
and costumes of
butin
Crete
to
longed to
see, to explore,
ment
to
perfumed even
after our
arrival,
I took
an open
had
rough
left
street,
first
through a
fortifications,
which
is
at all
on the
282
outer side
a small market-place
is
The road
vegetables.
follows for a
and
for fruits
brings you to
no thought
be
however pretty
beauties, dazzling,
may
fall
villages
tance.
its
masses of foKage
E-iza,
may
it
its illimitable
Above
outline of
the
White
and
violet
haze of
deep
its
lines
of eternal snow.
The high
road,
as also
many
these hedges,
penetrable barrier.
Many
up
their flower-stalks,
ship,
flowers measure
20
feet of
height
and
These
the massive
283
IN CRETE.
The
makes
to
make
yet,
employed
a delicate but
century
but they
its
to
disasters
aloes around
visit the
XX.
IN CRETE.
NO.
II.
CANEA AND
ITS
ENVIRONS.
^Venetian
The Ancient Arsenal of the
The Negro Village. Arab Huts. Street
Carriages. The Leper Settlement. Red Earth and Olive Mumies. Yorghi, the Coffee-seller. Honey and
Travelling Bees. "Lavdanum." The Spring of Perivoglia.
View from the Terrace. The Garden of Munir Agha.
Fine Orange-trees. Khalepa.
Cliurch Mosques.
Gralleys.
Fortifications.
trees.
Three
cially
of
tlie
Christian churches.
street,
once
The
convent.
narrow.
of the nave
interior
It is separated
from
;
is
long and
by
pillars
by small columns.
The second church-mosque, which still bears traces
fine Gothic work, has been almost destroyed by
of
earthquake
monument
that
we visited
with
its
roof, that
IN CRETE.
285
sunshine of the
On
it is diflBcult
by Gothic
cloisters.
in the harbour of
is
finest
may
still
be seen.
Nine
its
rose-coloured
its
its
all this
warmth and
waters,
snowy mountains
The Venetian
On
still
of Sphakia.
fortifications still
defend Canea on
is
286
ment. It
is
whitewashed
all
little settle-
red.
belonging to brothers
Two
houses of the
The negroes have planted their village on the seaThe Arabs, faithful to their native taste,
shore.
constructed theirs on a great bare space of sand,
rather farther inland and on the other side of the
rounded by palisades.
majestically
Their huts,
sometimes sur-
draped in
a dirty
contem-
blanket,
manifest curiosity
or
surprise.
floating
native
movement
of
of his
It is a
We are
soon
287
IN CEETE.
at the office for street carriages, established
by Raouf
Pasha.
if
perfect.
But
which
you attempt
if
plunges with
all travellers in
However, the
once.
him
To the inhabitants
is
forbidden to live
may
in the town.
much
it
as enter
it
it is
of
to those of the
not so
and cactus
some
lofty trees
a beautiful open
tance
cropping the
ing about
shine,
soft grass
girls
neatly dressed,
who
such
is
the
scene, that
causes
an
288
A second
pated.
dissi-
coarse wool, the hoods pulled low over the face, drag
their feeble limbs, or crouch on matting or in the
begging vaguely.
dust,
Government allows
which
is
The
for occu-
to each leper
one
first
all
Canea have
symptoms
of this fearful
As
malady
and
spectres.
All, alas
The
hideous decay.
takes a livid hue
are
doomed
to slow
and
form
hidden from
all
who has no
longer
human
is
a well
289
IN CRETE.
used by the lepers, and
their offerings
The people
it is
down
They
Greeks.
and
fish,
on salted meat
They take
this
bread even
is
with everything
oil
olive oil.
a morsel of
Oil
it.
one of
is
The town
of
Candia, and
also
(as
believe)
their
Ah
of suffering.
!
how
The road
the green
The
air is
forest
fields
trees
of olives
that throw
tall,
the
full,
and
shadow of
it,
then
leafy
their
So
of
II.
may
u
it
290
Many
Italy?
of
Venetian times
they
may
be recognised by their
The
coils.
plantations, protected
aloe
and
on the edge of
and
ferns
tall
of
to a rustic
*'
trellis
The
cafe."
comes out in
''cavedji'*
haste; he wears the Cretan dress: sleeveless waistcoat, large red waistband, the soft fez,
yellow boots.
He
and the
flower,
offers
;
it
is
its
natural
spirit,
uniting
aroma.
Tbis
many
man
is
callings,
an active, enterprising
as
an inspector of ruial
police, the
IX CRETE.
and gardens,
and
orange
291
When
groves.
olive
away
(as
dition of
an insurgent), and
fired
it
was from
hand
his
this village
that the
When
firbt
shot
peace was
Yorghi
first
is
his
quite ready to
opportunity
but, whilst
*'
and guide,
is
to the
com-
evident, however,
him
He
boasts of having
made
remembering that
he,
refuge.
whom
kill
he
them,"
an inspector of
police, is tread-
ing on dangerous ground, adroitly changes the con" I can show you the most beautiful
versation.
fountain
in
these parts,'*
beautiful water
those lime-trees."
It
is
"
Oh
such
What
a peaceful fountain?
said he.
It is infinitely
more delightful
292
to contemplate
and
Much honey
made
is
are forgotten.*
in the environs of
Murnies
on the moun-
village
The quality
of the honey
satisfied
is
with
and nourishment,
perfumed slopes of
to the
the Akrotiri.
In
covered with
season)
;
and which
is
found here
authors as a Cret
production.
The
is
leaves of this
collected
gum
is
by
This
Above the
village of Perivoglia
you may
see the
it
was again
in Crete,
visited
the beautiful slopes of Perivoglia. Yorghi was there, looking verymuch dilapidated, and with a great sword-cut disfiguring his
left
cheek
interval.
he had evidently
been
away
to
IX CRETE.
293
short subterranean
On
well-constructed conduits.
the spring a
little
by a
series of
spot
is
the
site
It
summer
of the
a favourite rendez-
is
shadow
It
is
delight-
down on
moun-
its
deep ultramarine of the wide expanse of the MediAgainst this azure background the red
terranean.
and ends
in a majestic
One
to a certain
politely
showed us over
it.
son, Ali
This garden
Hamdy
Bey, most
is
not bo
294
The
it is
patbs,
heavy with
and nectarine,
flourish in perfection.
Orange-trees here
reach the
of 45
height
or
much according to
may give two or three hundred oranges, as it may produce at another time
three thousand.
Ali Bey showed us a tree that had
once yielded as many as five thousand oranges.
The fruit, which is of the finest quality and flavour,
50
the
is
The crop
feet.
season
varies very
tree
the thousand
it
is
Constantinople and to
all
travellers,
pound
(18s. 2d.)
is
remarked
but a residence
is
extremely unhealthy
the
is
stony, rather
found
wanting
at
finest
Khalepa, a
in trees,
and most
hill- side
compared
salu-
rather
to the luxu-
295
IN CRETE.
of
theRhiza; but
From
a healthy eminence,
may have
is
magnifi-
it,
and who
all,
from
THE END.
ytUMTKD BV
J. .
ir,
JV.C.
ApRiLy 1886.
atalogit
of
oolv0
PUBLISHED BY
Drawing
Examples,
Diagrams,
Instruments,
ISSUED UNDER
Models,
etc.,
THE AUTHORITY OF
is
Mr. Carlyle,
now
publishing, called
is
trations,
and
Volume,
viz.
Vol.
issued
is
in
Monthly Volumes,
at
Eight
Illus-
Shillings
2.
3.
SARTOR RESARTUS
4.
5.
I.
[Ready.
j
[Eeady.
7.
8.
9.
I.
[Heady.
Ditto
ditto
,,
2.
IReady.
Ditto
ditto
3.
[Ready.
Vol.
i.
[Ready.
2.
[Ready.
10.
Ditto
ditto
II.
Ditto
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3-
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Fip^-CooKsoN.
STRANGERS IN TURKEY.
By Colonel
MnA^L
2 vols.
etc.,
etc
3 voU.
48
I.
H.
Volume
SIR
is
ESGOTT.
S.
is
among
the Contributors
RUTHERFORD ALCOCK.
CLIFFE LESLIE.
T. E.
MATHEW ARNOLD.
JOHN LUBBOCK,
THE EARL LYTTON.
SIR
PROFESSOR BAIN.
SIR SAMUEL BAKER.
PROFESSOR BEESLY.
PAUL BERT.
SIR H.
S.
M.P.
MAINE.
JAMES BRYCE,
DR. MAUDSLEY.
PROFESSOR MAX MULLER.
G. OSBORNE MORGAN, Q.C, M.P.
PROFESSOR HENRY MORLEY.
WILLIAM MORRIS.
PROFESSOR H. N. MOSELEY.
THOMAS
SIR GEORGE CAMPBELL, M.P.
THE EARL OF CARNARVON.
EMILIO CASTELAR.
W.
CHAMBERLAIN, M.P.
PROFESSOR SIDNEY COLVIN.
MONTAGUE COOKSON, Q.C.
L. H. COURTNEY, M.P.
G. H. DARWIN.
WALTER
HON.
LESLIE STEPHEN.
EDWARD
J.
HON. GEORGE
C.
BRODRICK.
M.P.
BURT, M.P.
RT. HON.
F.
F,
PALGRAVE.
H. PATER.
RT. HON. LYON PLAYFAIR, M.P.
DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI.
J.
A.
E. L.
STANLEY.
HUTCHISON STIRLING.
SWINBURNE.
DR. VON SYBEL.
FREEMAN.
A. C.
J. A.
SYMONDS.
THE
GLAISHER, F.R.S.
M. E. GRANT DUFF, M.P.
THOMAS HARE.
F. HARRISON.
W.
G.
LORD SHERBROOKE.
HERBERT SPENCER.
SIR
J.
W. H. MYERS.
W. NEWMAN.
L.
LORD HOUGHTON.
HON. LIONEL
PROFESSOR HUXLEY.
PROFESSOR R. C. JEBB.
PROFESSOR JEVONS.
ANTHONY TROLLOPE.
A.
TOLLEMACHE-
H. D. TRAILL.
PROFESSOR TYNDALL.
A.
ANDREW
LANG.
EMILE DE LAVELEYE.
J.
WILSON.
THE EDITOR.
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