Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
High
Impact
Photography
By
Steve
Johnson
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EQUIPMENT
First Camera
A Quick Note About Light
Second Camera
Third Camera
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TECHNIQUE
Low Light Photography
Beginners Tips
Ebay and Product Photography
Getting the Most From a Budget Camera
The Flaming Christmas Pudding
Staying Focused
White Balance; Different types of Lighting
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AESTHETICS
Quick Thoughts
Are Rules Made to be Broken?
Positive and Negative Space
Rethinking Beauty
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PHOTO ESSAYS
Autumn Color and a Macro Trick
Lake Effect Snow
Winter Photography
Lake Michigan in January
Icicles and Parking Lots
My Personal Favorites 2011
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Final Thought
Lighten Up
About the Author
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CONTENTS
1
Marble on Glass Brick. Canon A3100 IS macro.
Aged in Adobe Lightroom
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Marble on glass brick. Nikon D40X. The relatively large depth of field makes the
transparent marble appear solid.
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
TECHNIQUE
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Introduction
An expensive camera and an in depth knowledge of photography is not required to take
good photographs. This chapter is an attempt to illustrate that point and to provide a
little insight into how a relatively cheap piece of equipment can give perfectly acceptable
results - by acceptable I mean good enough to be published on major websites and in
high circulation mainstream publications.
All of the photographs in this piece were shot with a Canon Powershot A3100 IS camera
that retails for about $150. The photography industry has decreed that 'serious' point
and shoot or compact cameras start at $250 but they like making lots of money so they
would. The camera itself is considered to be pretty basic without many features that
contributors to techie and geeky websites consider so essential. Generally the reviews of
it are mixed erring slightly towards the positive. The point that I am really pushing here
is that this is in no way an exceptional camera and none of the things that I am going to
describe are specific to this camera.
TECHNIQUE
The format I'll use here is to post some shots taken with the camera described and write
a bit about the thought processes and techniques involved. I will go as light on the
technical stuff as I can as the whole point of compact cameras is ease of use. All
cameras differ slightly so you may have to adapt some of these instructions but I have
tried to stick to suggestions that should be fairly universal across models and makes. I'm
not going to go into stuff like face recognition or shooting video for example.
If you have a Canon assume that the mode I'm using is P. This will give more than
enough flexibility for what we need here. I would guess that the same applies in the case
of other makes. P for program is a standard designation but different manufacturers tend
to interpret it a little differently.
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Tip with zooms on compact cameras - use the optical zoom to your heart's content but if
you can, avoid extending it into the digital range as there is a definite drop off in quality.
The optical zoom on my Canon goes to 4 x its starting point which is around 35mm. This
is about the same as point and shoot cameras were in the days when they didn't have a
zoom. These numbers are pretty standard.
Obviously this image is black and white. Now, most compacts will shoot in black and
white and most photographers will tell you to always shoot in color as the conversion can
be done later and you will always have a color version should you need it. My take is that
if the photographs are important, shoot in color - don't even think about it. If, however,
you are just taking some shots around town or working on a still life then it is worth
shooting in black and white sometimes. This is a very fast way to get a good appreciation
for the importance of tone and it will feed back into your photography very quickly.
Nothing beats seeing the scene in front of you and the black and white version of the
same on the viewscreen - trust me on this if nothing else!
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TECHNIQUE
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If on the other hand you have a gray fairly boring sky and lots of detail in the
transformers and poles when half pressing the shutter, let it go, aim the camera towards
the sky, half press the shutter, and then re-aim the camera and press the shutter fully.
This is not nearly as tricky as it sounds and becomes instinctive after a while. It is a very
fast way of changing exposure on the fly in any situation.
TECHNIQUE
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TECHNIQUE
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Parking lot at night. Canon A3100 IS. Adobe Lightroom 3 noise reduction for smooth effect.
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TECHNIQUE
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These types of cameras have a much smaller sensor area than dSLRs and this does
impact quality. There is less nuance in the tonal and luminosity changes. In English that
means that images from a cheaper camera will tend to have a bit more contrast.
Personally I think raising the contrast adds impact to an image so this is a fault that I am
more than happy to live with. Saying that, if I was shooting landscapes at dawn for a
high end magazine I would use a compact to get some quick test shots but the product,
i.e. photos that I submit, will always be from the dSLR.
The lens quality is another issue. The cheaper the camera the smaller the distortion free
sweet spot in this regard. A $4,000 zoom lens will be distortion free throughout its range
- the lens on a $150 compact is probably distortion free for just about the exact middle
of its range. Again these distortions can actually be worked with to produce interesting
shots but if absolute accuracy is required then this may not be the tool. I work on the
basis that it is a feel that is being conveyed and accuracy can work either way. My get
out of jail free card is software that can very effectively remove distortion if I should
need to.
Lighting is the biggie. Basically you will have to work with what is in front of you as most
budget cameras do not have the facility for separate flash that can either be mounted on
the camera or off camera. The built in flash can be used for a little fill lighting but never
as the main source of light. Saying that it doesn't have to be a huge problem, many
excellent photographers only shoot in available light and refuse to use any supplemental
lighting. I work on the principle of available if possible, mixed as the next option, and
flash only as a last resort unless I'm doing recording type photography, such as artwork
for cataloging.
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Concluding Thoughts
Photography is never as complicated as it sounds on paper or screen; always treat this
sort of writing as jumping off points for your own ideas and experiments. If something
doesn't make sense don't worry about it, it may tomorrow or in six months' time.
Take lots and lots of pictures and treat the camera and photography as a learning
process. The best photographers are the curious ones who have a reasonably developed
eye.
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