2015 Japan

Japan National
Tourism Organization
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Contact the Japan National Tourism
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best source of Japan travel information.
For a free Japan information pack, please email
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You can also visit the JNTO office at 5th Floor,
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Japan
Essential
300 km
150 miles
Copyright Time Out Group 2015
Hokkaido
Home to vast expanses
of unspoilt mountain
scenery and abundant
wildlife, Hokkaido is a
nature-lovers paradise. Its
cool temperate summers
bring spectacular blooms
of flowers while worldclass ski resorts mean
its also a great winter
destination.
CHINA
Asahikawa
Hokkaido
Sapporo
Chubu
The iconic sight of
Mt Fuji dominates
for miles around,
and the panoramic
mountains of the Japan
Alps provide well-worn
hiking trails in the
warmer months and
fantastic skiing
in winter. The Chubu
region is also home
to the picturesque
historic towns of
Kanazawa and Takayama.
Hakodate
Tohoku
The Tohoku region has its own particular rustic
charm, with a slower pace of life, rich natural
beauty and countless hot spring resorts, not to
mention the friendly local people.
Kanto
Home to Tokyo, the Kanto region also
boasts cultural attractions such as the
ancient capital of Kamakura and the
impressive temple complex of Nikko,
set among beautiful scenery of lakes
and waterfalls.
S E A O F
Chugoku
Aomori
Akita
Tohoku
Sendai
Yamagata
J A P A N
Fukushima
Niigata
Chugoku & Shikoku

Highlights of the Chugoku
region are the city
of Hiroshima, where the
Memorial Peace Park
is a poignant symbol of
its tragic past, and the
nearby island of Miyajima,
whose shrine is one of the
most picturesque sights
in Japan. The Inland Sea
separates this region from
Shikoku, Japans fourth
Matsue
largest island.
Nikko
Kanto
Toyama
Kanazawa
JAPAN
TOKYO
Yokohama
Takayama
Chubu
Kamakura
Nagoya
Kyoto
Okayama
Kushiro
Travel
beyond
the clichs
Kobe
Hiroshima
Kansai
The cultural heart of
Japan is its ancient
capital of Kyoto, with
its many stunning
temples and gardens,
as well in its even
older neighbour Nara.
By contrast, the city of
Osaka offers a taste of
vibrant modern Japan,
though it also boasts
its own impressive
castle, as does the
nearby town of Himeji.
Kansai
Osaka
P A C I F I C
O C E A N
Wakayama
Tokushima
Written by local experts, rated

Top Guidebook Brand by Which?
Matsuyama
Fukuoka
Nagasaki
Kitakyushu
Shikoku
Kumamoto
Kyushu
Miyazaki
Kagoshima
Okinawa
Kyushu & Okinawa

The southern island of Kyushu
offers lush greenery, hot
springs and mysterious volcanic
formations. Highlights are the
charming city of Nagasaki and
the volcano Mt Aso. Further
south, the tropical island chain
of Okinawa boasts amazing coral
reefs, white sand beaches and
a fascinating cultural heritage
that is a mix between Japan and
South-east Asia.
On sale now at timeout.com/guidebooks
Keep up, join in
Contents
Senso-ji, Tokyo
Supplement Editor Cath Phillips

Contributing Writers Tom Baker,
Nicholas Coldicott, Robbie Swinnerton
Art Director Anthony Huggins
Picture Editor Jael Marschner
Picture Researcher Ben Rowe
Production Controller Katie MulhernBhudia
Photography (unless credited
otherwise) Japan Ryokan Association,
JNTO, TCVB, Tokushima Prefecture
Front cover Maiko in Matsuo Taisha
Shrine, Kyoto
Maps JS Graphics, JNTO (Kyoto)
TO: 2139-10-1410
Time Out Group
Chairman &Founder Tony Elliott
Chief Executive Officer Tim Arthur
Copyright
Time Out Group Ltd 2015
ESSENTIAL JAPAN TIME OUT 1
Contents
Produced by
Time Out Guides Ltd
4th Floor
125 Shaftesbury Avenue
London WC2H 8AD
Tel +44 (0) 20 7813 3000
Fax +44 (0) 20 7813 6001
email: guides@timeout.com
www.timeout.com
Tokyo 2
Around Tokyo
9
Kyoto 11
Around Kyoto 16
Osaka 17
Nagano 18
Kanazawa &Gifu 19
Seto Inland Sea &Beyond 20
Shikoku 22
Kyushu 23
Okinawa 24
Annual Events 25
Cool Japan 26
Japan for Families 28
Cartoon Culture 29
Winter Sports 30
Cruises 31
Flying to Japan 32
Getting Around 34
General Information 36
For Tour Operators &Agencies
40
Tokyo
2 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN
Tokyo
From futuristic skyscrapers to ancient temples.
Tokyo
ost of the clichs are true. Tokyo is a neon-wrapped,

hectic playground where Hello Kitty is a deity,
trains are never late, vending machines are
everywhere, and food doesnt always lie still on your plate.
Ancient and pop culture vie for space (pop culture usually
wins), and theres an insatiable thirst for innovation, which
means the Japanese capital always seems a step or two
ahead of your imagination.
The first time you set foot in the great entertainment and
shopping hubs of Ginza, Roppongi, Shibuya or Shinjuku,
youll be wide-eyed and overwhelmed. Huge liquid-crystal
screens blast a cacophony of sounds; bright signs and adverts
fill your vision. But there are also oases of high culture and
Zen-like calm, often just a few steps from the chaos. In Ginza,
for example, youll also find the Kabuki-za theatre, showcase
for Japans famous kabuki dramas, while Shibuya is a stones
throw from the capitals largest Shinto shrine.
GETTING AROUND
Theres no real centre to Tokyo. Rather, its a collection of
sub-centres, the most interesting of which are described
on the following pages. Although the greater Tokyo
metropolis sprawls over a massive area, its a remarkably
easy place to get around thanks to one of the most
comprehensive and efficient train and subway systems

in the world. Japan Railways circular Yamanote train
line is the best way to orientate yourself. It connects many
of the citys major districts, while other areas are a quick
subway ride from one of the big Yamanote line hubs. Most
stations have bilingual signs and rail maps, while the metro
is virtually idiot-proof thanks to its colour-coded lines and
numbered stations.
Tokyo is also a great city for walking; distances
between areas of interest make using public transport
a necessity, but exploring on foot, down tiny local streets
and along main thoroughfares, is the best way to get a
feel for the distinctive character of the citys many and
varied neighbourhoods.
At the Tourist Information Centre (TIC), JNTO
near Yurakucho station, youll find friendly, multilingual
staff and a wealth of information, as well as free maps and
literature to help you make the most your time in Japan. Free
Wi-Fi is also available.
Tourist Information Centre (TIC), JNTO
Shin-Tokyo Building 1F, 3-3-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku,
Tokyo 100-0005 (03 3201 3331). 5 mins from Yurakucho
station. Open 9am-5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan.
The main torii leading

to the Meiji Shrine
Tokyo
Ginza
Ginza is Tokyos smartest neighbourhood, with a plethora
of upmarket shops and restaurants, but a visit here doesnt
have to be expensive. Youll find free Sony, Nikon and
Canon exhibition showrooms, and in the railway arches
surrounding Yurakucho station there are numerous
atmospheric and cheap bars and restaurants that come
alive in the evening. For Tokyo, the area has unusually wide
pavements, which lend themselves to window-shopping, or
Ginbura (Ginza strolling). On weekends, cars are banned
from the main street, Ginza-dori (also called Chuo-dori),
to create what is known as hokousha tengoku (pedestrian
heaven), and cafs spill out on to the road.
Tiny shops selling traditional items such as wagashi
(Japanese sweets) and go-boards sit side by side with brand
giants such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Foreign retail chains
choose to have their first Japanese outlets in Ginza before
opening up elsewhere.
Local landmarks include the Kabuki-za Theatre,
which reopened in April 2013 after major reconstruction.
Kabuki-za is the main theatre of Japans traditional kabuki
performance in Tokyo. Designed by the famed Japanese
architect Kengo Kuma, the new facility represents Japans
contemporary creativity and traditional culture. Other
buildings worth seeing are the Herms flagship, a narrow
tower made of semi-translucent gold glass bricks designed
by Renzo Piano; and the store of famous pearl purveyors
Mikimoto, designed by Toyo Ito, with its irregular shaped
windows scattered sporadically over the concrete high-rise.
The intersection of Ginza-dori and Harumi-dori known
as yon-chome crossing is the main crossroads in the
district. On Harumi-dori is Wako, a venerable watch and
jewellery department store famous for its dazzling window
displays and clocktower, and facing Wako, on the other side
of Ginza-dori, is department store Mitsukoshi; the bronze
lion at its entrance is a popular meeting point. Head further
down Harumi-dori and turn right on to Shinohashi-dori
to reach Tsukiji Fish Market, one of the worlds largest
wholesale markets and one of Tokyos unmissable sights.
The nearby area of Marunouchi is Tokyos central

business district. Its traditionally been a sedate area, but
over the past decade has been reinvented as a consumer
hotspot, with numerous high-rise shopping and dining
complexes popping up. The latest changes are the extensive
redevelopment of the Tokyo station complex, which
included restoring the historic century-old Marunouchi side
of the station to its pre-war condition and vastly expanded
shopping and dinning options at Tokyo station. Worth a
stop is Tokyo Okashi Land, Japans first confectionerythemed retail zone, with stores operated directly by three
of Japans top confectioners.
Shinjuku
Shinjuku is Tokyos largest sub-centre and easily the most
cosmopolitan area of the city, with luxurious department
stores, sleazy strip-clubs and smoky jazz bars all a few
blocks from one another. The area is divided into distinct
east and west sections by the JR Yamanote and Chuo train
lines, with the entertainment and shopping districts to
the east and the business and government districts to the
west. Its a major transport hub: in fact, Shinjuku station
is the busiest in the world, with two million people passing
through daily.
The east side is where all the action is. It houses the glitzy
neon and hostess bars of Kabuki-cho, Japans largest
red-light area, as well the gay district of Ni-chome (twochome) and the colourful bars of San-chome (three-chome).
Adjoining is Golden Gai, a collection of tiny watering holes
that are a throwback to earlier days.
Further east and south of Shinjuku-dori (a major
shopping street with numerous large department stores)
is the vast green lung of Shinjuku Gyoen, one of Tokyos
largest parks. Its a spectacular sight in spring at hanami
(cherry blossom viewing), when its 1,500 trees colour the
whole place pink.
The west side of Shinjuku has a clutch of skyscrapers
housing banking, insurance and other company
headquarters. The Tokyo governments headquarters,
known as Tocho, are also here. Completed in 1991, the

twin-towered centrepiece of this impressive complex is
the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No.1:
a must-visit architecturally and for the great and free
views from its two observation decks.
In stark contrast to the gleaming high-rises is Omoide
Yokocho, just outside Shinjuku stations north-west exit.
This narrow alleyway lined with ramshackle yakitori stalls
and bars, each with seating for no more than a handful of
customers, is the last remnant of a vanished world.
Shibuya
Harajuku
Harajukus emblematic shopping street is Takeshita-dori,
a narrow pedestrianised thoroughfare of small clothes
shops and crpe stands. It starts on the opposite side of
the road from quaintly old-fashioned Harajuku station
and winds its way to join Meiji-dori; halfway along are
some steps leading up to Togo Shrine.
Key Harajuku stores include Laforet on the corner of
Meiji-dori and Omotesando; a popular meeting spot, it
offers five floors of teenybopper shopping heaven. The
main nexus of teen Tokyo extends from Takeshita-dori
up towards the Meiji Shrine. On the bridge in front of
the entrance to the shrines Inner Garden, Tokyos young
hipsters (mainly girls) hang out at weekends in often
outrageous cosu-purei (costume play) outfits.
The entrance to the Meiji Shrine is through a 36-foot/
11-metre torii (gate), the largest in the country, built from
1,600-year-old cypress trees. The huge patch of green is
instantly recognisable from observation decks across the
city; the serene atmosphere, punctuated by birdsong, is a
world away from the mayhem of Harajukus shops. Opened
in 1920, the shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji, whose
reign (1868-1912) coincided with Japans modernisation.
It hosts numerous festivals, including two sumo dedicatory
ceremonies in early January and at the end of September,
and draws crowds of a million plus at New Year.
Keen shoppers should head to the nearby district of
Aoyama. The main street here is Omotesando, a tree-lined
boulevard crammed with flagship stores designed by the
Asakusa
Until around 1940, this area adjacent to the eastern bank
of the Sumida river was the most exciting and dynamic
part of town. Today a sense of faded grandeur still hangs
BUILDING BOOM
Tokyo isnt always beautiful,
but the citys architecture
has never lacked a wild and
creative streak. Mix liberal
planning laws with a native
love of novelty and the end
result is an architectural
playground, by turns
flamboyant, eccentric and just
plain crazy. And the mega-city
will continue to grow as it
prepares to host the 2020
Olympic and Paralympic Games. Here are Tokyos
latest must-see buildings.
Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku
This castle-like structure topped with tufts of
greenery opened in 2012 not far from JR Harajuku
station. It was designed by award-winning architect
Hiroshi Nakamura.
Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre
A striking new building designed by Kengo Kuma
opened in front of Sensoji temples Kaminarimon
gate in 2012. Its the new home of the Asakusa
Culture Tourist Information Centre, where youll
find free tourist information, computers to search
for more info and also free wi-fi. The roof terrace
and caf on the eighth floor offer beautiful views
of Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree (see page 6), Tokyos
number-one architectural marvel.
National Art Center, Tokyo
Opened in 2007, the biggest museum in Japan
(pictured) the last major work of Kisho Kurokawa,
who died a few months after it opened has four
storeys of undulating glass set in generous grounds.
21_21 Design Sight
This design museum in the Midtown complex
is the work of Tadao Ando, the reigning star of
Japanese architecture, in conjunction with veteran
fashion designer Issey Miyake. Composed of two
sharp trapezoids, it appears to have been made
from a single folded sheet of concrete.
Tokyo
Tokyos youth have made Shibuya their playground,

and the shops, cafs, clubs, bars and restaurants largely
cater to their tastes its a hotbed of pop culture and
lowbrow entertainment thats fast, fun and affordable.
Shopping is Shibuyas raison dtre, with music and
fashion dominating the areas stores. When darkness falls
and the neon is switched on, myriad clubs, bars and cinemas
keep the area throbbing through the night.
The JR stations Hachiko exit is the gateway to the areas
attractions. Outside the exit is a small bronze statue of
the eponymous Hachiko, a dog of legendary loyalty who
walked to Shibuya to meet his owner at the end of each day,
then travelled vainly to the station for a further seven years
after the old mans death.
Next to the square is the worlds busiest pedestrian
crossing, also named Hachiko. With a backdrop of blaring
video screens and neon-clad buildings, this is the Tokyo of
popular imagination.
worlds top contemporary architects. Every self-respecting

fashion house has an outlet here. Be adventurous and
explore the smaller side streets, known as Ura-Harajuku.
It is here youll find lesser-known, hip Japanese brands and
unique cafs. For culture, head to the Nezu Museum with
its collection of East Asian artworks and a large traditional
Japanese garden.
over the neighbourhood, but for the visitor, the greatest

appeal lies in the Asakusa Kannon temple. It is this temple
complex and its environs that have helped make Asakusa
into one of Tokyos prime tourist attractions.
Also known as Senso-ji, Asakusa Kannon is Tokyos
oldest temple, with origins, so the remarkably precise
story has it, dating to 18 March 628. That was when two
brothers fishing on the river caught a two-inch golden
statue in their net. It was enshrined in the house of the
village headman, and in 645 a hall was built for the icon
on the spot where todays temple stands. The complex
also houses a Shinto shrine, Asakusa Jinja, which was
established in 1649 to honour the two fishermen and the
village headman.
The main temple gate, the Kaminarimon (Thunder
Gate), sports a famously gigantic red paper lantern. From
here stretches lively Nakamise-dori, which contains
around 150 stalls selling traditional goods such as combs,
fans, dolls, kimono, paper crafts, clothing and toys a great
place for souvenirs.
Asakusa can also be the starting point for a cruise on

the Sumida river. One option is to take the water bus (suijo
basu), which leaves every 20-45 minutes from the pier next
to Azumabashi, heading south under 13 bridges en route to
beautiful Hama-Rikyu Detached Garden. Or you could
take a yakata-bune boat tour, a leisurely cruise around Tokyo
Bay on a floating restaurant theyre nicest at night.
In 2012, the worlds tallest freestanding tower opened in
Tokyo. At a height of 2,080 feet/634 metres, Tokyo Skytree
is the second tallest structure in the world, after Burj Khalifa
in Dubai. Two enclosed observation decks offer spectacular
views over Tokyo. These are located at 1,150 feet (350
metres) and 1,480 feet (450 metres), making them the highest
viewing decks in Japan and among the highest in the world.
Ueno
Ueno Koen was Tokyos first public park when it opened in
1873. It contains a whole slew of attractions, from museums
HIGHLIGHTS OF TOKYOS ANNUAL CALENDAR
Tokyo
NEW YEARS DAY
Date 1 Jan.
Japans most important annual
holiday sees large crowds fill
temples and shrines.
NEW YEAR GRAND SUMO TOURNAMENT
Date mid Jan.

The first of Tokyos three annual
15-day sumo tournaments. The
tournaments take place from the
second to the fourth Sunday of
January, May and September.
TOKYO INTERNATIONAL ANIMATION FAIR
Date late Mar.

Works by both amateurs and pros
are exhibited at this event. Theres
also a competition for youngsters.
MEIJI JINGU SPRING FESTIVAL
Date 29 Apr-early May.

Performances of traditional
entertainment at the large Meiji
Shrine complex in Harajuku,
including imperial court music
and dance.
KANDA/SANNO MATSURI
Date mid May/mid June.

The Kanda Matsuri is held on oddnumbered years on the weekend
before 15 May; the Sanno Matsuri
is held on even-numbered years
around mid June. Along with Sanja
Matsuri, these are Tokyos Big
Three festivals.
SANJA MATSURI
Date third weekend in May.

At this Shinto festival, shrines
containing kami (Shinto spirits)
are carried through the streets in
a grand procession, complete with
music, dance and floats. This is
Tokyos largest annual festival.
SUMIDA RIVER FIREWORKS
Date last Sat in July.

Up to a million people pack the
riverbank area in Asakusa to see
around 20,000 hanabi (flower-fires)
light up the night skies.
ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL
Date late Aug.

Thousands of brilliantly plumed
dancers shake their stuff in the
streets of old Asakusa.
TAKIGI NOH
Date Sept-Oct.
Atmospheric outdoor performances
of medieval Noh drama are staged
at a number of shrines, temples
and parks, illuminated by torches.
MEIJI JINGU GRAND AUTUMN FESTIVAL
Date 3 Nov.
Performances of traditional music,
theatre, martial arts and yabusame
(horseback archery) at the Meiji
Shrine in honour of the birthday of
Emperor Meiji.
TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
Date early Nov.

The largest film festival in Japan,
attracting a glittering influx of
international movie talent to
Roppongi Hills.
Tokyo Skytree
Roppongi
For the expat party crowd theres only ever been one
destination: Roppongi. Think deafening rock or trance
music, hostess bars and tequila shots galore.
So Tokyos leading property magnate Mori Minoru raised
a few eyebrows when, in 1995, he announced plans to build a
huge, multi-billion-yen, upmarket urban development right
next to the bedlam. The Roppongi Hills complex is designed
as a city within a city, housing numerous cafs, restaurants
and shops, serviced apartments, a nine-screen cinema and
the Asahi TV studio. In the middle is Moris eponymous

54-storey tower the top supposedly modelled on a samurai
helmet home to the world-class Mori Art Museum and a
52nd-floor observation deck, Tokyo City View.
Following hot on the heels of Roppongi Hills came
another giant urban regeneration project, Tokyo Midtown,
which opened in 2007 on the opposite side of Roppongi-dori.
It also features offices, apartments, shops and restaurants,
as well as a luxury hotel, futuristic design gallery 21_21
Design Sight, and the monolithic Midtown Tower one
of the tallest buildings in the city at 813 feet (248 metres).
Nearby is the National Art Center, Tokyo, the biggest
museum in the country, which also opened in 2007. Together
with the Suntory Museum of Art in Midtown, which
specialises in Japanese art and antiquities, and the Mori
Art Museum in Roppongi Hills, its the final point of whats
been dubbed the Roppongi Art Triangle.
The arrival of all these new developments has
transformed the areas image, with parents now bringing
their offspring to Roppongi rather than ordering them to
steer clear. Yet only a few blocks away, along Roppongidori, the night-time pleasures continue unabated. Street
vendors and gaudy bar signs provide the ambience. At the
weekend each of the bars and clubs will be rammed with
hedonistic partygoers. Roppongi also has plenty to offer
on a culinary level: the international crowd bring their
international palates, and the area boasts a greater variety
of food than any other part of the city.
South-east from the Roppongi intersection lies Tokyo
Tower; the resemblance to the Eiffel Tower is deliberate,
as is the superior height 43 feet/13 metres taller than the
Parisian structure. Built in 1958, it has long since been
trumped by taller buildings with better views, but its still
an iconic structure.
Tokyo
to shrines and temples to a zoo, but is particularly famed for

its collection of cherry trees. Throngs of Tokyoites gather
here every spring during blossom season.
The park is also home to some of Japans greatest cultural
assets and Tokyos foremost collection of museums, which
deal with Japanese history and culture, as well as science
and the arts of other nations. The first you come to is the Le
Corbusier-designed National Museum of Western Art.
Next door is the National Science Museum and, north of
that, the Tokyo National Museum, the grandest museum in
the park. All the other museums the Tokyo Metropolitan
Art Museum, the University Art Museum and Ueno
Royal Museum are within easy striking distance.
The park also contains Ueno Zoo, the most famous
zoo in the country. Not far from the main entrance is the
approach to Toshogu Shrine, the finest of the parks
historical monuments. Theres more to Ueno than its
park, though. Near the JR station is the areas other great
attraction: the Ameyoko street market, with more than
500 stalls shoehorned into a quarter-mile stretch, including
fishmongers and fruit and vegetable stalls.
Kaminarimon,
Asakusa Kannon
temple
Odaiba
Odaiba started out as a project to develop Tokyo Bay
on reclaimed land. Over the past decade its turned into
something of a community apart from the rest of Tokyo,
with nowhere else sharing its spacious atmosphere of wide
avenues and cavernous modern architecture, with the water
of Tokyo Bay just a couple of streets away.
Its at its busiest on summer weekends.
A trip to Odaiba begins by taking the elevated, driverless
Yurikamome monorail from Shinbashi or Shiodome
stations. The gateway to Odaiba is Rainbow Bridge, named
after the illuminations that light it up after dark. The bridge
has become one of the most impressive additions to Tokyos
skyline. Just across the bridge is the 25-storey structure
of the Fuji TV headquarters, crowned by a 1,200-tonne

glittering metal sphere. Inside the sphere is an observation
deck that, on clear days, gives breathtaking views of Tokyo
and its surroundings.
Odaiba also is known for its shopping malls, including
the nautically themed Decks, Aqua City with its small-scale
replica of the Statue of Liberty, and Venus Fort, where youll
find the super-cute Hello Kittys Kawaii Paradise, a mini
indoor theme park devoted to the worlds most popular cat.
There are also several museums worth seeing. The
Museum of Maritime Science is built to look like an ocean
liner, while the National Museum of Emerging Science
& Innovation is suitably space age in appearance. Fun for
all the family is Toyotas huge Mega Web showroom and
Odaiba Onsen Monogatari, a hot springs theme park
modelled on Edo-era Tokyo.
Tokyo
JAPANESE CUISINE
The staple food in Japan, around
which everything else revolves, is rice.
Indeed, the word for meal (gohan)
literally means cooked rice. In
farming communities rice is still eaten
three times a day, along with a
simple side dish, a bowl of miso soup
and some pickles. This is a Japanese
meal at its most basic.
Until 150 years ago, meat eating
was shunned, and Japanese cooking is
still heavily weighted towards seafood
and products made from protein-rich
soya beans, such as tofu, yuba (soya
milk skin), natto (fermented beans),
soy sauce and miso.
There is an emphasis on fresh
ingredients, so the varieties of
seafood, vegetables and mushrooms
will vary throughout the year. In
addition, each region of Japan has
its own specialities and all are
available in Tokyo.
KAISEKI RYORI
Japans haute cuisine: a sequence

of small dishes, often simple but
always immaculately prepared and
presented to reflect the seasons.
KUSHI-AGE
Pieces of meat, seafood or

vegetables are skewered and
deep-fried to a golden brown in
a coating of fine breadcrumbs.
NABEMONO AND ONE-POT COOKING
One-pot stews cooked at the table

in casseroles (nabe) of iron or
heavy earthenware. Everyone helps
themselves to the stew.
SUKIYAKI
Tender cuts of meat (usually beef)

with vegetables, tofu and other
ingredients lightly cooked in a
sweetened soy sauce.
SUSHI
Raw fish or other delicacies on

patties of vinegared rice. Best
sampled at the many kaiten
(conveyor belt) restaurants that
specialise in sushi.
TEMPURA
Seafood and vegetables deep fried

in a light batter.
TEPPANYAKI, OKONOMIYAKI AND MONJA
NOODLES: SOBA, UDON AND RAMEN
Soba (thin, grey, made from

buckwheat mixed with wheat flour)
and udon (chunkier wheat noodles,
usually white) noodles are eaten
chilled or hot. Ramen are crinkly,
yellowish noodles served in a rich,
meaty soup.
ODEN
Fish cakes, tofu, vegetables and

whole eggs simmered long and
slowly in a shoyu-flavoured broth.
SASHIMI
Raw fish, delicately sliced and

artfully arranged, usually served
with soy sauce (pictured).
Teppanyaki is beef cooked on a flat

teppan grill. Okonomiyaki (grilled
whatever you like) is a cross
between a pancake and an omelette,
stuffed with meat, bean sprouts,
chopped cabbage and other goodies.
The Tokyo version is known as
monjayaki.
TONKATSU
Pork dredged in flour, dipped in

egg, rolled in breadcrumbs and
deep fried.
UNAGI
Fillets of freshwater eel, basted

and very slowly grilled (often over
charcoal).
YAKITORI
Skewered bits of chicken cooked

over a grill, seasoned with a soybased glaze.
Around Tokyo
Mountain scenery, hot springs and shogun shrines.
Around Tokyo
Mt Fuji and tea plantation
ou dont have to travel very far from Tokyo to

encounter stunning scenery, whether its the
splendid temples of Kamakura and Nikko, the
smoking volcanic hillsides at Hakone, or the snow-capped
serenity of Mount Fuji.
Kamakura
For 150 years, from the 12th to the 14th centuries, Kamakura
was Japans military and administrative capital, and the
factors that made it a strategic location for the first military
government it has hills on three sides and Sagami Bay on
the other have also kept it separate from the encroaching
sprawl of Yokohama. When you reach Kamakura, you feel
that you have finally escaped the city, even though its less
than an hour by train from the heart of Tokyo.
The Minamoto family picked Kamakura for its new
base after vanquishing the Taira clan in 1185 and setting
up Japans first military government marking the start
of 700 years of domination by shoguns. The new military

rulers encouraged Zen Buddhism, which appealed for its
strict self-discipline, and temples of various sects were
established in the area. While traces of the government and
military rule faded quickly after the Minamoto clan and
their regents were defeated in 1333, the religious influence
endures to this day.
There are more than 70 temples and shrines around
Kamakura, from the eminent to the small and secluded.
Still active today, they represent different Buddhist sects,
among them Rinzai, Pure Land and Nichiren. Few buildings
are intact from the Kamakura period, but many temples and
shrines appear unspoilt, giving visitors a rare opportunity
to view authentic reminders of old Japan.
The main attractions are scattered around, but most
are within walking distance of Kamakura or KitaKamakura stations and can be covered in a day trip from
Tokyo. Directions and distances to temples in each vicinity
are marked in English at intervals around town. You can
pick up a free map (partly in English) from the Tourist
Information window at Kamakura station. Most temples

are open daily, from 9am to 4pm.
The town and the main sites are surprisingly busy at
weekends and holidays. Festival periods are especially
crowded. The main ones are the Grand Festival (14-16
September) and the Kamakura Festival (from the second
to the third Sunday in April). Both take place at Tsurugaoka
Hachiman-gu the towns main shrine and focal point,
ten minutes walk from Kamakura station which is
also immensely popular on the first few days of the New
Year, when hordes of worshippers converge to make their
auspicious, first shrine visit of the year. Each temple and
shrine also holds its own festival, and the fireworks on
the second Tuesday of August attract massive crowds
to the beach area.
Around Tokyo
Nikko
If you havent seen Nikko, then you cant say youve really
lived such is the gist of a Japanese saying thats been
popular since the Edo Period. For over 1,200 years this
area of mountains, lakes, forests and hot springs has
been considered a centre of great beauty and spiritual
significance. But Nikkos main claim to fame is that its
where the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, is enshrined
and buried. The scale and lavish ornamentation of his
mausoleum make Nikko one of the most fascinating sites
in the country.
Ieyasus mausoleum, the Toshogu, is surrounded by
numerous temples and shrines, including the equally
ornate Taiyu-in, the mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitsu,
the third Tokugawa shogun. The entire complex, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, can be seen in half a day. Most visitors,
though, stay overnight so they can also see the area
above Nikko, including Lake Chuzenji, the dramatic
Kegon Falls, Yumoto Onsen and the vast Oku-Nikko
national park, with its onsen (hot springs), hiking, camping,
boating and skiing.
Nikko lies at the foot of the mountains on the edge of the
Kanto plain, about two hours by train due north of Tokyo.
It is a small city (population circa 20,000), with souvenir
shops, antique dealers and restaurants lining the main
street that runs from the two train stations up to Shinkyo,
the sacred bridge that marks the entrance to the shrines and
temples. This handsome, red-lacquered bridge spanning
the Daiyagawa gorge marks the spot where legend says
Shodo Shonin was carried across by two huge serpents.
The first bridge was built here in 1636, as the main approach
to Toshogu. Destroyed by floods in 1902 and rebuilt five
years later, the second bridge carried such vast numbers of
tourists that it had to be rebuilt again, its third incarnation
opening in 2005.
Hakone
Hakone is where Tokyoites come to relax and get a taste
of the countryside. Around 90 minutes by train from
Shinjuku station on the Odakyu line, this mountainous
area offers beautiful scenery, a host of attractions and,
best of all, a natural hot-spring bath, or onsen, around
virtually every bend of the roads that twist through
the mountains.
Those in a hurry can make the most of their time by

trying the Hakone circuit. Get off the train at either
Odawara or Hakone-Yumoto. From there, transfer to
the Tozan mountain railway for the 50-minute ride to its
terminus at Gora. At Gora, transfer on to the funicular
railway up to the end of the line at Sounzan. Here, transfer
to the cable car, which takes you down to the banks of Lake
Ashinoko at Togendai station. To cross the lake, board one
of the pleasure boats and stay on until Hakone-Machi or
Moto-Hakone, from where you can take a bus back to where
you started, at Hakone- Yumoto or Odawara. The round-trip
should take about three hours, although in the busy summer
months it may take longer.
The best way to see Hakone is to buy the Hakone
Freepass (see page 34), available at all Odakyu railway
stations. The pass covers travel from Tokyo and all public
transport in Hakone.
Mount Fuji
Japans most famous and highest mountain (at 12,388
feet/ 3,776 metres) is renowned for its beauty and spiritual
significance. For centuries pilgrims have made their way
to the top of Mt Fuji, praying and resting at each stage
before reaching the summit in time for sunrise. Religious
travellers are few and far between these days, but climbing
Fuji remains very popular. People still go up to see the
sunrise, but most use transport to the fifth stage, where the
road stops. Since the mountain is covered in snow most of
the year, the official climbing season is limited to July and
August, although there is transport to the fifth stage from
April until November (out of season the trails are open, but
facilities are closed). The best time is the middle four weeks
of the climbing season; the most crowded time is Obon
Week in mid August. The climb is worthwhile but not easy;
a saying goes that there are two kinds of fools, those who
never climb Fuji and those who climb it twice.
Choosing from which side to tackle Mt Fuji affects how
easy the climb is. Most people follow the Yoshidaguchi Trail
from the Kawaguchiko side (north), which offers a 4.7-mile
(7.5-kilometre) climb that takes five hours, plus three for
the descent. You can also head from the south-west side,
starting at one of two new fifth stages, one near Gotemba
(six and a half hours up and three down) or another further
west (five hours up and three and a half down).
There are two ways to tackle the volcano. One is to set off
at nightfall, timing the ascent to arrive in time for sunrise.
More sensible souls climb in daylight and rest in one of the
lodges near the peak. With up to 600 people crammed into
the huts, you may not get a sound sleep, but youll appreciate
the break. Lodges at the eighth stage on the Kawaguchiko
side include Hakuunsou (0555 24 6514, from 3,700 per
person) and Honhachigo Tomoekan (0555 24 6511, from
5,500 per person).
The temperature at the summit can be 20C lower than
at the base; the average in July is 5C (40F) and in August
6C (43F). Its often below zero before sunrise. Essential
items include good shoes, rainwear, a torch, water and
food (available at huts). Dont forget toilet paper and bags
for your rubbish. Once you reach the peak, you might
be slightly disappointed to find it is no longer a place of
solitude and contemplation but it is still an amazing feeling
to be standing atop Japans most iconic peak.
Kyoto
The cultural heart of Japan.
Kyoto
Kinkaku-ji
yoto was Japans capital for 1,200 years, and remains

the nations cultural heart. Because it was spared the
air raids of World War II, it has retained far more of
a feel of old Japan than other major Japanese cities. The
numerous shrines, temples, palaces and ancient villas are
repositories of Japans long history, while up in the low
mountains that enclose the city small villages huddle under
forested slopes, offering fascinating glimpses of rural life.
You can still find geishas in the old Gion district; kimono
weavers in Nishijin; sake brewers in Fushimi; and numerous
craftsmen, artisans and storekeepers who carefully
maintain the old ways, helping to keep alive the flame of
Japans traditional culture. Not that everything looks old,
of course. Inevitably, the city has its fair share of modern
high-rises, and many of the older neighbourhoods have been
lost to the onslaught of development but there are still
survivors of the classic wooden machiya houses with their
attractive latticed fronts and tiled roofs; these have been
experiencing a renaissance in recent years, with investors
snapping them up and restoring them as holiday rentals.
Those who live there say it takes a lifetime to know
Kyoto. Few visitors have even as much as a week to explore,
although a week would be the ideal length of stay, especially
if side trips to Ohara, Kurama, Uji or Nara are included.
But even a couple of days is enough to glimpse something

of the citys main sites.
To get to Kyoto from Tokyo takes just two hours and 15
minutes by JR Tokaido shinkansen (from Tokyo station).
From Osaka, its 25 minutes by JR Kyoto Line (Tokaido Line)
rapid train from Shin-Osaka station.
HISTORY
Kyoto became the seat of Japans imperial court in 794,
replacing previous sites in the Nara area. The location
was selected for its auspicious geomantic properties
rather than strategic considerations: surrounded on three
sides by mountains but open to the south, with two rivers
flowing through the city from the north. Known initially as
Heian-kyo (Capital of Peace and Tranquility), it was laid
out according to the classical Chinese pattern with a regular
checkerboard of avenues and streets.
Over the centuries, the city became known simply as
Kyoto (Capital City). Besides being the focus of political
power, it was also an important religious centre, with a
succession of Buddhist sects vying for prominence. Each
has left its mark with major temples, including Enryakuji
(Tendai sect), To-ji (Mikkyo), Nanzen-ji, Tenryu-ji and
Daikoku-ji (Zen), and Nishi Hongan-ji (Jodo Shin).
Kyoto
The Heian Period (794-1185) saw the apogee of classical

Japanese cultural refinement. It was an era of courtly
rituals and romance, as recorded in the pages of the Tale
of Genji which is believed to be the worlds first work of
fiction. But Kyoto was also a centre of constant intrigue and
power brokering between the two most powerful families,
the Taira (Heike) and Minamoto (Genji), which culminated
in a period in which the political centre shifted to Kamakura.
The Ashikaga shoguns (generals) restored the capital
to Kyoto, ushering in a second golden age known as the
Muromachi Period (1336-1573). Little is left of the city from
that era, as it was destroyed on numerous occasions by fire
and the civil wars that only ended with the rise to power of
the warlords Nobunaga and Hideyoshi in the 16th century.
Under Hideyoshi, Kyoto was rebuilt and entered a brief era
of glory, now known as the Momoyama Period (1573-1603).
But when the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu seized control
in 1603, he moved his seat of power to Edo (modern-day
Tokyo). The imperial court remained in Kyoto until 1868,
when the shogunate was overthrown and the capital was
formally moved to Tokyo under Emperor Meiji.
Today, there is a growing grassroots movement to
preserve what is left of Kyotos heritage. While citizen
groups have managed to obtain legal protection for Gion
and other neighbourhoods, the government has to date

gained UNESCO World Heritage status for 17 major sites.
Yasaka-jinja
GETTING AROUND
Given the scale of the city, it is impossible to see all
the sights in a single day or even a short visit. Tour buses can
whisk you from one temple to another, but to really discover
the city, the best strategy is to focus on a couple of specific
areas, giving yourself time not just to see the historic
buildings but also to explore some of the neighbourhoods.
The city is laid out on a regular grid. Karasuma-dori,
the main north-south axis, is intersected by major avenues
Marutamachi-dori; Oike-dori; Shijo-dori; Gojo-dori;
and Shichijo-dori, just north of the JR station many of
which have subway stations of the same name. East of
the Kamo-gawa river is Higashiyama (East Mountain);
to the west are Katsura-gawa and Arashiyama.
To get from one end of Kyoto to the other, use the subway,
transferring as necessary to the local railway lines or to the
network of buses that criss-cross the city (most have signs
and announcements in English). Since the terrain is mostly
flat, energetic visitors might consider renting bicycles (try
www.kctp.net/en). Taxis are numerous, and very convenient
for shorter distances, although theyre not necessarily faster
if you are planning on going right across town.
For more detailed information about the city and special
events, try these:
Kyoto Tourist Information Decks

Free Kyoto City guides are available at any Starbucks or 7-11
(Japans largest convenience store chain). Open daily.
Kyoto Visitors Guide
www.kyotoguide.com.
Dining, shopping, accommodation and more in English.
WHEN TO VISIT
Due to its landlocked position, Kyoto has an extreme
climate, with bitterly cold winters and sweltering
humid summers. The best time to visit is spring,
especially when the cherries are in blossom, or when
the hills and gardens are dappled with autumn hues.
Kyoto also has numerous annual festivals, the
most spectacular of which are: the Aoi Festival
(15 May) and Jidai Festival (22 October), both with
impressive processions through the streets; the
Gion Festival (17 July), featuring massive wooden
floats; Daimonji (around 15 August), marking the
end of the midsummer o-bon Festival of the Dead with
five huge bonfires in the shape of kanji characters
on the hillsides above the city; and the Kurama Fire
Festival (22 October), a boisterous occasion featuring
night-time revelry and gigantic burning torches that
scatter sparks all around.
Kyoto
Kyoto City Tourism Information Centre

JR Kyoto Station Building, 2nd Floor (075 343 0548).
Open 8.30am-7pm daily.
Around Kyoto station

Arriving in Kyoto by shinkansen, you may possibly
be underwhelmed by the mundane cityscape that greets
you as you emerge from the imposing new station building.
However, there are several important sites within walking
distance, and if you only have a few hours to spare, you can
fill them easily.
Just south of the station, visible from the platforms, is
To-ji (East Temple), founded in 796, with its impressive
five-storey pagoda. Its usually quiet, but on the 21st of each
month crowds gather for the Kobo-san flea market, where
you can bargain for second-hand kimonos and furniture,
post-war memorabilia and assorted junk.
To the north of the station, the kitschy-retro Kyoto
Tower offers views over the south of the city. A short walk
away is Nishi-Hongan-ji. Many of the structures and
ornamentations came from warlord Hideyoshis lavish
Fushimi Castle, before it was destroyed by Ieyasu. Book for
tours of the historic building. Across the street stands the
rival Higashi-Hongan-ji. Despite the splendid wooden gate,
there is not much to see inside.
A short taxi ride from the station is the extraordinary
and atmospheric Sanjusangen-do. The main hall of this
temple, which dates from 1266, is 390 feet (118 metres) long
and just 60 feet (18 metres) wide, and houses 1,001 statues
of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, each with a different face,
peering out from the gloom.
Close by is the Kyoto National Museum, which has an
excellent collection of predominantly pictorial art.
Higashiyama and eastern Kyoto
Kyoto
Some of the finest sites are concentrated in the eastern

quadrant of the city, and if you only have one full day,
this would be the best place to spend it in.
First, take a bus or taxi to Ginkaku-ji, better known as
the Silver Pavilion; its garden is a beautiful place to linger.
From here, stroll down the tranquil, pedestrian-only, cherrylined Philosophers Walk, following a canal past temples and
imperial tombs, eventually arriving at Nanzen-ji; this is the
classic Zen temple, in an unparalleled setting at the foot of
verdant Higashiyama.
Catch a bus or taxi to Kiyomizu-dera, one of Kyotos
finest and most popular temples. From the bottom of the hill,
you stroll up through narrow streets lined with gift shops.
The temple itself is set into the steep hillside, with the front
of the main hall supported on massive wooden scaffolding.
Kiyomizu-dera was founded in 780, before the city existed,
and is not affiliated with any of the main Kyoto sects. The
platform around the main hall gives a wonderful view over
the rooftops of the city, as well as much-needed fresh air,
especially in the heat of summer.
A short stroll away is Yasaka-jinja, a large Shinto
shrine set in park-like precincts that are most interesting
in the evening and at New Year. Continuing towards the
Kamo-gawa River, you reach the Gion-Shinbashi district,

one of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods in the city. In
the evening, you may see maiko (apprentice geisha) making
their way through the narrow streets.
Central Kyoto
Across the river from the Gion and slightly to the north
is Ponto-cho, a lively entertainment area with streets lined
with restaurants, bars and clubs that are at their busiest in
the evening.
Further west, Nijo-jo was the Tokugawa shoguns palace
in Kyoto. Erected in 1632, the audience rooms are decorated
with lavish craftsmanship, and protected by secret guards
rooms and squeaking nightingale floors intended to betray
the presence of potential assassins. Besides the architecture,
the castle has impressive gates (the Ote-mon and Kara-mon)
and an extensive and showy formal garden.
To the north is Kyoto Gosho, the Imperial Palace,
which can be toured by prior appointment with the Imperial
Household Agency. The main 19th-century palace is quite
simple, and perhaps not worth a visit if you only have a
short time in the city. Likewise Heian Jingu, a shrine built
in 1895 to mark the citys 1,000th anniversary: more
imposing than elevating, it has three strolling gardens
that are pleasant, but less interesting than many other of
Kyotos older gardens.
North-west and western Kyoto

In the north of the city is Kinkaku-ji, the renowned Golden
Pavilion. Originally constructed in 1397 as a shoguns
villa, its setting among trees, next to a lake is one of the
most photographed sites in the city. In 1950, a monk caused
a fire that razed the building to the ground, but an exact
reconstruction was finished within five years, this time
covered all over with gold leaf, the stunning brilliance of
which is heightened by its reflection in the water.
A short bus ride away is Ryoan-ji, with its world-famous
and much photographed Zen rock garden. Because the
image is so well known and the temple so busy with tour
groups, actually seeing the garden can feel anti-climactic.
But slow down, time your visit right and just sit: you may just
experience a hint of enlightenment.
To the far west, where the Oi-gawa River comes gushing
out of the mountains, lies Arashiyama. This is an area of
great natural beauty, especially in spring and autumn and,
rather than specific sites, it is the scenery that delights. It has
become popular to take a boat ride down river (you start at
Kameoka, 15 minutes up the train line), through the mildly
exciting rapids, emerging at Arashiyama. Then spend a
few hours strolling down shady lanes and through bamboo
groves, stopping at a chaya (traditional refreshment house)
to lunch on tofu or other Kyoto delicacies, or sipping on
green tea beside the river.
To the far north

Bamboo forest, Arashiyama
Hidden away in the folds of the mountains to the north

of Kyoto, you will find quiet farming villages where life
moves at a far more relaxing pace. Ohara would be worth
visiting just for its attractive location, but it also has two
fine temples that draw visitors from afar.
Sanzen-in has a wonderful setting, among towering
cryptomeria and fringed by maple trees. Jakko-in is quieter
but well worth visiting too. Even deeper into the mountains
is the village of Kurama, famous for three reasons: its
temple, Kurama-dera, associated with winged goblins
known as tengu; its hot spring, Kurama Onsen, where you
can bathe in an outdoor pool; and its spectacular annual
fire festival (22 October). From here, you can hike half an
hour to Kibune, a village in the next valley: stop here for a
peaceful meal in one of the ryokan (traditional inns) by a
gushing stream.
Heading south
The village of Fushimi, located on the southern end of
Higashiyama (East Mountain), is known for its sak; you
can visit the Gekkeikan Museum to see (and taste) how
Japans national tipple is brewed.
Close by is the remarkable Fushimi Inari-taisha, a major
Shinto shrine dedicated to the god of rice. Its pathways
are flanked by literally thousands of red torii (shrine gates)
donations from individuals, families and companies
which meander over the thickly wooded mountainside.
C LO S E E N C O U N T E R S O F T H E C U LT U R A L K I N D
For a change from temple-hopping
and shopping, and to gain a greater
appreciation of traditional Japanese
arts and crafts, a number of handson experiences are on offer.
CULTURAL PROGRAMMES
Windows to Japan
windowstojapan.com.
Aims to open windows and remove
screens to let you experience the
real Japan. Through these uniquely
developed windows, you will
discover a hidden world in plain
sight: a private evening with a
geisha will allow you to ask real
geisha questions about their daily
lives and career, and to understand
more about this curious and often
misunderstood world. The exclusive
Behind the Veil walking tour lets
you see the unseen and hidden
in regular Kyoto streets and
neighbourhoods. Costs vary
depending on the activity.
Kyoto
JTB www.japanican.com.
ViaJapan Holidays
www.viajapan.co.uk.
Learn about and try Japanese arts,
music or food, directly from experts
in the field. Experience the ninja
world, for example, by wearing a
ninja costume and participating in a
ninja training session; learn samurai
sword-fighting techniques; or play a
Japanese taiko drum. All interests
are catered for, from going to Tsukiji
Fish Market then making sushi,
to wearing a kimono and visiting
Asakusa. Classes are in English.
Costs vary depending on the activity,
but start at about 10,000.
Studio Shiki Maiko Makeover

075 533 6666,
www.maiko-henshin.com/en/.
Strictly for the girls, this one.
Get dressed up as a maiko
(apprentice geisha) traditional
white make-up and elaborate
hairstyle included and be
snapped in a studio by a
professional photographer.
Cost: 9,975 for two hours,
including six photos.
WAK Kyoto
075 212 9993, www.wakjapan.com.
Combine a visit to a private home
in Kyoto with a lesson in flowerarranging, origami, calligraphy, the
tea ceremony, dance or playing the
koto (a traditional stringed musical
instrument). Run by the Womens
Association of Kyoto, classes are in
English and last 90-150 minutes.
Cost: 5,500-20,000 per person,
including hotel pick-up.
Around Kyoto
Around Kyoto
Historic buildings, temples and a holy mountain.
Kumano Hongu, one of the three

grand shrines of Kumano
Uji
This small city, 20 minutes south of Kyoto by train, is worth
visiting (either as a half-day trip or en route to Nara) just
to view the elegant Byodo-in. Built in 1053 and formerly a
noblemans villa, the two wings of its main hall (the Hoo-do)
supposedly resemble a phoenix in flight. Its one of the most
celebrated buildings in Japan.
Nara
Japans capital before that honour passed to Kyoto, Nara is
more peaceful and is built on a more manageable scale than
its successor. Its a great day-trip from Kyoto with a bunch of
its own cultural highlights that rival anything to be found in
its more famous neighbour. The temple of Todai-ji contains
the worlds largest wooden structure, the Great Buddha Hall,
which houses a huge, impressive bronze statue of Buddha.
Nara Park is well known for the many tame deer that roam
its grounds, regarded since ancient times as messengers of
the gods. On the western outskirts of the city is Horyu-ji, the
oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, with a five-storey pagoda
said to be the oldest surviving wooden structure in the
world, dating from the early seventh century.
Mount Koya
Mt Koya, or Koya-san, is located in the north-eastern
part of Wakayama Prefecture a few hours south of Kyoto.
It is the centre of Shingon Buddhism, a sect introduced to

Japan in the early ninth century by Kobo Daishi, one of the
most significant figures in Japanese religious history. On
Mt Koyas peak is Kongobu-ji, the sects head temple, which
has a 1,200-year-long history. More than 120 other temples
are scattered throughout the area, including Okunoin,
where Kobo Daishi rests in eternal meditation. Okunoin is
surrounded by Japans largest graveyard,where the burial
plots of feudal lords and other prominent personalities are
set among the trees.
Around 50 of the temples in the area function as shukubo,
which means they offer lodging to visitors and tourists. This
includes the chance to eat shojin-ryori, the vegetarian cuisine
of the monks. Some of the temples also offer the opportunity
to experience zazen, a kind of Zen Buddhist training.
Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes

For more than 1,000 years, Japanese from all walks of life
even retired emperors have made the long pilgrimage
to Kumano on the coast of the Kii Peninsula, south-east
of Osaka. These pilgrims used a network of routes (now
known as the Kumano Kodo) on a spiritual journey
through the mountains to three sacred shrines: Kumano
Hongu, Kumano Nachi and Kumano Hatayama
collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan. The Tanabe
City Kumano Tourism Bureau (www.tb-kumano.jp/en) can
help with accommodation, hiking routes and maps. Paths
are clearly signposted (in English and Japanese) and you
can easily keep track of your route by visiting the small
Oji Shrines along the way.
Osaka
Fantastic street food, lively shops and traditional puppetry in Japans second city.
riginally a vibrant trading town with links to Asia,

the port city of Osaka has developed into a major
Japanese economic hub, second only to Tokyo. Its
strategic location near two former capitals by train its only
30 minutes to Kyoto and 40 minutes to Nara and proximity
to Japans second largest airport (Kansai International)
make it a convenient base for visitors to the Kansai region.
The vibrant urban landscape offers a respite from the
numerous temples and shrines, which may start to blur
together. The Osakans are known for their sense of humour,
culinary brilliance and entertaining nightlife. A network
of train and underground lines and bus routes make
navigating the city easy.
Bay Area
Centred on Tenpo-zan Harbor Village, the Bay Area has

plenty of family-friendly attractions, including a massive
Ferris wheel and Kaiyukan, one of the largest aquariums in
the world, which is home to two giant whale sharks.
Kita (City North) & Osaka Station

Osaka
The northern part of Osaka is a shopping paradise, with

a new shopping complex, Osaka Station City, attached to
JR Osaka station. For refreshments and stunning views of
the city, visit the malls rooftop garden.
Just east of the railway station is Osaka Tenmangu
Shrine, which hosts the Tenjin Matsuri festival one of
the three great festivals of Japan every July. Also here
is iconic Osaka Castle, which has a museum with an
extensive display of historical artefacts. The National
Museum of Art on Nakanoshima features work by
contemporary Japanese artists and is worth a visit just
to admire the striking building.
Minami (City South)

The southern region of the city is home to lively shopping
areas, theatres, bars and clubs. Shinsaibashi and Namba
are popular with the younger crowd, while America-Mura
is the place for unique fashions. Engaging street performers
and flea markets at the weekend are typical of the vibrant
atmosphere of the city.
Osaka has been the capital of bunraku, traditional puppet
theatre, for many centuries. Puppeteers bring the three-foot
puppets to life with riveting tales and music. The National
Bunraku Theatre has audio guides in English, to help you
keep up with the drama.
The Japanese know Osaka as a city for kuidaore (eat
till you drop), and the colourful Dotombori Canal is the
best place to sample some of the citys excellent street food.
Okonomiyaki a savoury pancake cooked on a giant griddle,
somewhat similar to a pizza can be filled with your choice of
meat, vegetables or seafood. Youll also see vendors skilfully
shaping takoyaki balls bite-sized balls made of batter and
filled with pieces of octopus (tako) as they cook in a hot pan.
Both come topped with a special sauce, mayonnaise, bonito
flakes and nori flakes.
Osaka City by night
Osaka Castle
Nagano
Ancient forests, remote mountains and monkeys.
ountainous Nagano Prefecture, with its forests

and traditional villages, reveals a Japan beyond
the neon lights. Hiking in Kamikochi or walking
the Kiso-ji Road in the Kiso Valley are great ways to discover
Japans outdoors.
Nagano
Kiso Valley
The Kiso Valley, at the foot of Mount Ontake, is home to one
of Japans most beautiful forests. Here you can walk along
the old Kiso-ji Road, part of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasus
Nakasen-do Highway, built to connect Edo (present-day
Tokyo) and Kyoto in the 17th century. Eleven staging
posts are dotted along the scenic highway. At the town
of Magome, rows of beautifully preserved old houses
line stone-paved roads. Overhead power lines are hidden
to maintain the authentic feudal period look.
A leisurely two- or three-hour walk takes you from
Magome to Tsumago, which provides more of a taste of
the Edo Period (1600-1868). Both towns have traditional
inns where you can spend the night resting by old-style
fireplaces and sleeping on futons on tatami mats.
Kamikochi
Kamikochi is a remote highland area in the Azusa River
Valley in the Japan Alps. Part of the Chubu Sangaku
National Park, the area has a few hotels, huts and hiking
trails open from mid/late April until 15 November.
Private cars are banned, with access only by bus or taxi.
In the centre of Kamikochi stands Kappa Bridge.
From here, trails lead up and down the valley and towards
the summits of the surrounding mountains.
Kappa Bridge, Kamikochi

Kamikochi is particularly beautiful during the autumn

foliage season, which peaks in mid October. The area is also
known for its diverse alpine flora, with blooms at their best
from mid May until the end of July.
Matsumoto
Matsumoto Castle is Japans oldest wooden castle and
one of the countrys most intact. Construction began on
this magnificent three-turret structure in 1592. Today,
guns, bombs and weapons from the days of the samurai are
displayed on the lower floors. Nearby is the old Nakamachi
merchant district, with traditional white-walled houses
that have been renovated to become shops, ryokan, cafs
and galleries. Contemporary art fans should call in at the
Matsumoto City Museum of Art, which contains works
by Matsumoto-born Yayoi Kusama.
Hot springs
Nagano has a number of onsen villages, with natural hot
springs. The area is also famous for its snow monkeys
these wild creatures enjoy soaking in the natural springs
just like the human visitors. Jigokudani Monkey Park is
home to more than 100 Japanese macaques, and the park
has a hot spring pool for their exclusive use. Not far from
the monkey park, Yudanaka and Shibu onsen villages
feature traditional wooden Japanese inns atmospheric
places to stay where you can experience the relaxing
powers of the onsen.
There are several ski resorts near Yudanaka; the most
prominent is Shiga Kogen, site of some Winter Olympics
events in 1998.
Kanazawa & Gifu

Old Japan, perfectly preserved.
Kanazawa
Takayama
The old town area of Takayama, in Gifu Prefecture,
has been beautifully preserved, with many buildings
and whole streets of houses dating from the Edo Period,
when the city thrived as a wealthy trading centre. The old
wooden houses in the town centre have now been converted
into cafs, restaurants, craft shops and a diverse range of
galleries and museums.
The Takayama Festival, held in spring and autumn,
is believed to have begun in the 16th or 17th century and is
one of Japans finest. During the festival, intricate floats,
magnificently decorated using traditional local craft
techniques, make their way through the town.
Shirakawa-go
A pleasant day trip from Takayama, Shirakawa-go is a
quiet village, surrounded by mountains. It contains some
110 traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which
are more than 250 years old. In 1995 UNESCO declared the
entire village a World Heritage Site.
Gassho-zukuri means constructed like hands in
prayer: the farmhouses steep thatched roofs resemble
the hands of Buddhist monks pressed together in prayer.
The architectural style developed over many generations
and is designed to withstand heavy snowfalls. The roofs,
constructed without nails, provided a large attic space
used for cultivating silkworms.
Kenroku-en Garden,
Kanazawa
Kanazawa & Gifu
Ishikawa Prefectures capital, Kanazawa, was one of the

few major Japanese cities to escape bombing by the US
Air Force during World War II. Consequently, parts of
the old castle town have survived intact, making the city a
viable alternative to the more famous Kyoto for exploring
traditional Japan. The Hokuriku bullet train line extension
will be completed by March 2015, cutting journey times from
Tokyo to Kanazawa from four hours to two and a half.
Kanazawa has prospered for some 300 years, ever since
feudal lord Maeda Toshiie built a castle here in the late
16th century. The citys wealth allowed the arts to flourish:
a thriving geisha district was established, along with one
of Japans most beautiful gardens, Kenroku-en Garden.
Established in 1676, the garden was shaped over a period
of more than 100 years. It is distinguished by its many
ponds, connected by winding streams, as well as its trees.
The Nagamachi Samurai Residences District is
at the foot of Kanazawa Castle. With earthen walls, stone
pavements and the Onosho Canal, it retains the look and
feel of the samurai era. One of its main attractions is
Nomura-ke, a restored samurai home, complete with
artefacts, revealing the lifestyle of samurai during this
prosperous period. The Shinise Kinenkan Museum,
a restored pharmacy, shows the lives of the merchant class
that rose to prosperity as the samurai declined.
A chaya (literally teahouse) is actually an exclusive
restaurant where guests are entertained by geisha.
During the Edo Period, chaya were found in designated
entertainment districts, usually just outside the city limits.
Kanazawa has three well-preserved chaya districts: Higashi
Chayagai (Eastern Chaya District), Nishi Chayagai
(Western Chaya District) and Kazuemachi. Their wooden
buildings and paved streets are reminiscent of the Edo
Period, and each district still has working chaya. You may
happen to see a geisha in the early evening as she travels to
one of her engagements.
Higashi Chayagai is the largest and most interesting of
the three districts. Two chaya, the Shima Teahouse and
Kaikaro Teahouse, are open to the public. Other buildings
along the central street house cafs and shops. One of
the shops, Hakuza, sells gold-leaf products, a speciality
of Kanazawa; it also has a tea ceremony room that is
completely covered in gold leaf.
The Ninja-dera (Ninja Temple) was built by the Maeda
lords. It earned its nickname because of its many hidden
defences. Since the shogun imposed strict building
restrictions to ensure the weakness of his regional lords,
the temple functioned as a disguised military outpost,
with secret rooms, traps, and a labyrinth of corridors
and staircases as well as hidden escape routes, enabling
defenders to alert the castle in the event of an attack.
Omicho Market is a busy and colourful network of

covered streets lined by around 200 shops and stalls, most
specialising in local seafood and produce.
Seto Inland Sea

& Beyond
Seto Inland Sea & Beyond
An iconic shrine, a monument to world peace and an island-hopping road.
Shimanami Kaido, Seto Inland Sea
Hiroshima
Overshadowed by its tragic past as the target of the worlds
first atomic bomb, present-day Hiroshima, two hours
west of Kyoto, is a lively modern city, and one that stands
as a powerful symbol for the promotion of world peace.
A visit to the Peace Memorial Park in the city centre is
an unforgettable experience, with the poignant A-Bomb
Dome standing as a lone reminder of the old city that was
obliterated in the blast.
Hiroshima is also known for its food. Oysters have been
farmed here since the 16th century, and Hiroshima-style
okonomiyaki, unique flour crpes (sometimes referred to
as Japanese pizzas) fried with vegetables and noodles, are
another speciality.
Miyajima
A short distance from Hiroshima is the beautiful island of
Miyajima, home to the Itsuku-shima Shrine. The shrine
has a torii (gate) standing alone in the sea. This striking and
surreal sight is known as one of the three views of Japan

a trio of the countrys most iconic sights. The shrine is also
a World Heritage Site.
Wild deer roam the island; they have become accustomed
to people and wander around the same sites as visitors
during the day.
A pleasant and relaxing way to enjoy Miyajima is to
take a stroll along one of the islands many footpaths.
Surrounding the town, the paths cut through the islands
forest; as you climb, youll find some good vantage points for
views down on to the town below. Some paths lead through
the Momijidani (Maple Valley), the islands prime spot for
viewing autumn leaves. The paths also lead past a Tahoto
pagoda and numerous lookout points, as well as clusters of
cherry trees, which burst into bloom in early April.
For those seeking a more substantial hike, there are three
paths that lead to the summit of the islands Mount Misen.
From here, the numerous islands of the Seto Inland Sea are
spread out before you. Swimmers and beach-lovers also love
Miyajima: there are bathing beaches with camping grounds
around the island, which get very busy in summer.
Miyajima is a romantic place, best enjoyed by staying
overnight at one of the islands ryokan. There are many day
tourists too the island is an ideal day-trip destination but

those staying overnight have the advantage that the island
becomes much quieter and more peaceful in the evening.
Kobe Harbour Land
Himeji
Himeji is best known for the magnificent Himeji Castle,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is widely considered
to be Japans most beautiful surviving feudal castle. It can
be reached in less than an hour from Osaka or Kyoto.
Kobe
Shimanami Kaido
The Shimanami Kaido is a 38-mile (60-kilometre)-long
road that connects Japans main island of Honshu to the
island of Shikoku, passing over six small islands in the Seto
Inland Sea. Its possible to make the journey from Honshu to
Shikoku by car, bicycle or on foot. Along the way, travellers
can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Seto Inland Sea and
the islands small towns.
At around 44 miles (70 kilometres), the cycling route is
a bit longer than the road, but because there are no steep
inclines, it can be comfortably completed in a day by a
moderately fit cyclist. Regular and electric-assisted bicycles
can be hired in the area. Ordinary bicycles cost 500 per day
and childrens bicycles 300 per day, while electric-assisted
bicycles are 800 for four hours.
Naruto
Naruto City is located at the north-eastern tip of Tokushima
Prefecture, Shikoku. The ocean around the coastal city
is famous for its whirlpools. These occur when opposing
currents from the Seto Inland Sea and the Kii Channel
meet in the Naruto Strait, with a difference in water levels
between the two of as much as 1.5 metres. At the time of the
flood tide between spring and autumn huge whirlpools,
moving at 13 miles (20 kilometres) an hour and exceeding
65 feet (20 metres) in diameter, form. Visitors can see these
roaring whirlpools and surging currents from a tide-viewing

boat or from observation platforms.
Naoshima Art Island

Around four hours from Tokyo or one and a half
hours from Osaka, Naoshima is a small island with a
population of around 3,400 in the Seto Inland Sea. This
unique piece of land has been selected by the US edition of
Cond Nast Traveller as one of the seven places inthe world
you should see next, and also featured inThe Man with the
Red Tattoo, one of the series written by Raymond Benson,
featuring Ian Flemings James Bond character.
Benesse Art Site Naoshima is an attempt to create a
totally new kind of art space and art experience by setting
contemporary art and architecture amid the beauty of
nature. The site includes many unique places and projects.
Among them is Benesse House a museum where you can
stay the night, designed by Tadao Ando, a former boxer and
truck driver and now a renowned architect. Another is the
Art House Project: artists renovate old houses, turning the
house and the space inside into a new work of art.
Tadao Ando also designed the Chichu Art Museum,
where one of Claude Monets Water Lilies paintings sits
alongside works by James Turrell and Walter De Maria,
contemporary artists long involved with Naoshima Island.
The museum has a beautiful garden, with plants that were
cherished by Monet, allowing visitors to gain a deeper
understanding of his work.
You can also enjoy wonderful classic Japanese bunraku
(puppet theatre) on the island. A special feature of the
bunraku here is that all the performers are women this is
not found anywhere else in Japan.
Seto Inland Sea & Beyond
Located between the sea and the Rokko mountain range,

Kobe is world-famous for its tasty beef. Its also one of
Japans most attractive cities.
Kobe has been an important port city for many centuries
and was one of the first Japanese ports to be opened to
foreign trade in the late Edo Period. The Kitano-cho district
at the foot of the Rokko mountain range is where many
western business people settled in the second half of the
19th century, when foreign trade began. Here you can visit
a number of mansions that belonged to western residents
from this period.
Many sak companies operate breweries in Kobes
Nada district, some of which have an adjacent store or
room with exhibits. At the Hakutsuru Sake Brewery
Museum in the grounds of the Hakutsuru Brewery, you
can learn about the process of sak brewing and taste the
companys famous saks. Kobe is around two and a half
hours by train from Tokyo.
Shikoku
A famous pilgrimage site, full of natural drama and historic castles.
he smallest of Japans four main islands, Shikoku

is famed for its natural and secluded sites, giving
the impression of an ancient land since lost to
modernisation. It also has four of Japans 12 castles that
retain their original keeps. For centuries, pilgrims have
trekked around the whole island, visiting the 88 temples on
the Shikoku Pilgrimage in pursuit of reflection or an escape
from the pressures of daily life. Even today, many still attempt
the six-week, 870-mile (1,400-kilometre) journey on foot.
You can reach Shikoku by train (from Okayama), car,
bus, air or by numerous ferry routes, but the most scenic
approach is by bicycle across the Shimanami Kaido sea
road (see page 21).
Shikoku
Tokushima
The traditional starting point for pilgrims, Tokushima
(historically known as Awa) is home to 23 of the 88 temples
on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The official Awa Odori folk
dancing festival takes place in August, but the famous
colourful dance is performed three times a day at Awa Odori
Kaikan in Tokushima City.
Here too is the isolated and staggeringly beautiful Iya
Valley, with its deep gorges and verdant forests. Trains and
buses are few, so its best to rent a car. Rafting or kayaking
down the Yohshino River through the Oboke and Koboke
Gorges is an exciting way to take in the scenery. The area is
also famous for the three surviving vine bridges (Kazurabashi) that criss-cross the deep valley walking over the
swaying structures is a thrilling experience.
Ehime
With 27 pilgrimage temples, two castles and a sex museum,
Ehime Prefecture is full of interest. Uwajima is home
to the Taga Shrine a Shinto shrine with connection to
fertility rights and a museum displaying ancient and
contemporary erotica from around the world. Nearby is
Uwajima Castle with its surrounding park.
Dont miss Dogo Hot Spring in Matsuyama. The wellpreserved main bathhouse, built in 1894, was the inspiration
for the bathhouse in the Oscar-winning anime film Spirited
Away. Visitors can explore the building, and also sign up
for a tour of the private imperial baths used by the royal
family. Matsuyama Castle is one of the finest of Japans
12 surviving original castles.
Kochi
Kochi Prefecture stretches across the southern half of the
island. Once considered Japans wildest and remotest region
Dogo Hot Spring, Matsuyama
as its cut off from the rest of the country by both mountains
and sea, it has some spectacular coastal drives. Beaches
include the popular (but non-swimmable) Katsurahama
Beach and the lesser-known Ohkihama Beach. The
wild landscape of the cape of Muroto-Misaki is where the
revered Kobo Daishi found enlightenment. He also founded
Hotsumisaki Temple on top of a steep hill nearby.
Kochi Castle is impressive, with spectacular views of
Kochi City from its tower. At the Yosakoi Festival in August,
colourfully dressed performers clap out rhythms with
naruko bird clappers while energetically dancing to samba/
rock-style music.
Kagawa
Kagawa Prefecture is the end point of the Shikoku
Pilgrimage, and home to the only rail link (via the SetoOhashi Bridge) to the main island of Honshu. Marugame
Castle is another historic fortress. Kompira Shrine
in Kotohira sits atop a dizzying 1,368 steps. Take in the
sights as you make your way to the top, then tackle another
500 steps to the inner shrine featuring stone carvings of
long-nosed tengu (dog-like heavenly creatures). Ritsurin
Garden in Takamatsu is a ravishing Japanese garden, with
a number of teahouses and iconic views.
Kyushu
Head south for volcanoes, hot springs and ancient cedars.
he southern island of Kyushu, dotted with volcanoes,

is a hot springs paradise featuring some of Japans
most unique landscapes. KLM flies from Europe
to Fukuoka, and the shinkansen links Kagoshima and
Fukuoka to Osaka. Local trains run throughout the island.
Fukuoka
The vibrant city of Fukuoka is famous for its food
(especially the riverside yatai street-food stalls) and festivals.
You can get your fill of culture at Nanzoin Temple with
its magnificent statue of a Buddha in repose, and Tochoji
Temple with its giant Fukuoka Daibutsu (seated Buddha).
The reconstructed Kokura Castle is also worth seeing.
Ibusuki natural sand
baths, Kagoshima
Saga Prefecture is best known for its ceramic production,

especially Aritayaki and Karatsuyaki pottery. There are
more than 150 kilns in Arita alone, and some kilns, such as
Kyozan in Karatsu, are open to visitors.
Nagasaki
Although best known for its tragic experience as the target
for the second atomic bomb, Nagasaki has a long and rich
history. The Dutch monopolised trade with Nagasaki during
Japans two centuries of seclusion; the Dejima Dutch
Trading Post illustrates what life was like for the few
foreign traders living there. Glover Garden, now a museum,
was originally the home of a Scottish merchant and one of
the first western-style homes built in Japan
A visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace
Park is a sobering reminder of the importance of peace,
while a ferry ride to Hashima is quite an experience. The
former coal mining island, once densely populated, is now
abandoned you may recognise it as the inspiration for the
villains hideout in the James Bond film Skyfall.
Kumamoto
Kumamoto is perfect for outdoors types, with two national
parks, river rafting and volcanoes galore. Visitors can take a
cable car to the top of the vast and constantly smouldering
Nakadake crater. Kumamoto Castle, considered one of
the three finest castles in Japan, still stands guard over the
city. Nearby, the Hosokawa Gyobutei (mansion) provides
a unique glimpse into the life of an Edo-era samurai, while
Suisenji Park is a stunning example of Japanese garden
aesthetics and contains an imperial teahouse.
Kagoshima
For great views of Mt Sakurajima, the iconic and still
active volcano that often dusts the city with a fine layer of
ash, head to the beautiful Sengan-en garden. Then visit
the island on which the volcano sits; there are regular ferries
across the bay. Kirishima, a volcanic national park with
close ties to Japanese mythology, is great for gentle hikes
and hot springs. The Ibusuki black sand spas where youre
buried up to your neck in warm sand have a beneficial
effect on circulation. Yakushima island is a must for avid
hikers and for fans of film-maker Hayao Miyazaki. Its
ancient cedar trees were the inspiration for the forest in
Miyzakis masterpiece, Princess Mononoke.
Miyazaki
The picturesque coast here is loved by surfers and
beachgoers, and the prefecture is steeped in Japanese
traditional folklore. In Miyazaki City, the Miyazaki Shrine
is dedicated to Jimmu, the semi-mythical first emperor
of Japan and descendant of the sun goddess. Beautiful
600-year-old wisteria trees cover the thickly forested
complex. The mountain town of Takachiho is supposedly
where the Shinto sun-goddess Amaterasu brought light
back to the world, and is home to the Ama-no-Iwato Shrine.
Oita
For the onsen lover, Oita is heaven on earth. In Beppu, the
Jigoku Meguri, or tour of the eight hells, takes you to sites
of natural wonder. Each jigoku is unique, spewing hot clay
mud, billowing steam or red water rich in iron dioxide.
Kyushu
Saga
Okinawa
Welcome to Japans island paradise.
Okinawa
rystal blue seas, white sand beaches and colourful

marine life its not widely known, but Japan is
also a fantastic place for a beach holiday. More
than 150 islands, about 40 of them inhabited, known as the
Ryukyu Islands, stretch in a 250-mile (400-kilometre) chain
at the southernmost extremity of the Japanese archipelago.
This is Okinawa Prefecture, located nearly halfway between
Kyushu (the southernmost of Japans four main islands)
and Taiwan, at the same latitude as more famous beach
destinations such as Hawaii, Florida and the Bahamas.
The climate is subtropical, with an average annual
temperature of 22C (72.3F). Summers are hot and wet
monsoons and typhoons are a regular feature with highs
of around 31C (88F), while winters are much dryer with
temperatures never falling below springtime levels in Tokyo
and Osaka. Banyan trees, hibiscus and other tropical and
semi-tropical plants abound, blooming throughout the year;
and sugar cane, pineapple and papaya are major crops.
Rare species of flora and fauna include the wild cats of
Iriomote Island.
Okinawas natural attractions are many, particularly
the spectacularly clear blue waters and blindingly white
sand beaches that fringe the islands. Extensive coral
reefs teeming with colourful fish make this a diving
and snorkelling hotspot. You can also kayak through
mangrove swamps, fish, whale-watch, hike in rainforest
or play golf on an ocean-side course. Those who want to
see whale sharks and manta rays without getting wet can
visit Churaumi Aquarium on Okinawa Island, the worlds
second-largest aquarium.
For about 400 years, until the mid 19th century, Okinawa
was known as the Ryukyu Kingdom, a prosperous state
independent of Japans central government. As a result,
Kabira Bay, Ishigaki Island
and thanks to its trade with China, Thailand, Malaysia

and elsewhere, Okinawas language and culture developed
very differently from elsewhere in Japan. Such differences
are still evident today, with Okinawa having food, music,
dance, crafts, architecture and festivals that are not found
elsewhere in the country. One example is the bright red,
elaborately decorated Shuri Castle in Naha City (Okinawas
capital). Originally the seat of the Ryukyu kings, it shares
little with the white fortifications of mainland Japan.
Okinawa is also the birthplace of karate, as well as a lesser
known martial art called kobudo.
Theres also a distinct American influence, thanks to
more recent historical events: Okinawa was under US
administration from the end of World War II until 1972,
and still has a significant US military presence.
Okinawa has also achieved worldwide attention for
its famously long-lived inhabitants, who are less likely
to suffer from cancer, strokes and heart conditions; many
studies have put this down to the healthy traditional diet and
laid-back way of life. Try a champuru stir-fry, containing
vegetables such as goya (bitter melon), tofu and meat or
fish, then indulge in a shot of the local tipple, awamori.
This strong, fiery, distilled rice liquor resembles shochu,
but is made from long-grained rice perhaps this is the
secret of Okinawan longevity.
GETTING THERE
Okinawas Naha Airport is serviced domestically by
ANA, JAL, Peach, Jetstar Japan and Vanilla Air. The
main routes are from Tokyo Haneda Airport (2hr 45min),
Kansai International Airport (2hr 10min) and Osaka
Itami Airport (2hr 15min). For visitor information, check
en.okinawastory.jp.
Annual Events
J
apan has hundreds of events and matsuri (festivals)

throughout the year; here are some of the main ones.
For whats on in Tokyo, see page 6.
Sapporo Snow Festival

Where Sapporo, Hokkaido. When early Feb.
Winter is celebrated in style in Hokkaidos capital,
Sapporo, when two million visitors come to admire
the huge and elaborate snow and ice sculptures lining
the main thoroughfare, Odori Park.
Peace Ceremony
Where Hiroshima, Chugoku.
When 6 Aug.
At 8.15am the exact time that the atomic bomb was
dropped on Hiroshima in 1945 the Bell of Peace rings out
and sirens sound throughout the city. This is followed by a
minutes silence, which is observed throughout the country.
In the evening, thousands of lanterns are set adrift on the
Ota river, with prayers for world peace.
Annual Events
Awa-Odori Folk Dance Festival

Where Tokushima, Shikoku.
When 12-15 Aug.
The most famous of many dancing
festivals held across Japan. Parades
of folkdancers welcome the souls of
ancestors during the Obon season
(one of the main holiday periods),
accompanied by drums, gongs, strings
and flutes. The dance dates from 1587
when the feudal lord Hachisuka Iemasa
offered sak to the towns inhabitants to
Nebuta Matsuri
celebrate newly built Tokushima Castle
Gion Matsuri
the people became so drunk they started to
Where Kyoto, Kansai. When July.
dance in an unsteady gait.
This notable Kyoto festival dates from the ninth century,
when the head priest of the Yasaka Shrine led a procession
Naha Festival & Giant Tug-of-War
of ornate palanquins in an attempt to win the protection of
Where Naha, Okinawa.
the gods against the pestilence that was then ravaging the
When early Oct.
city. The main day is 17 July, when tall, gorgeously bedecked A dazzling display of Okinawan culture, including dance,
yama and hoko floats parade through the main streets.
music, arts and crafts, food and drink and the worlds
largest tug-of-war, featuring a giant rope over 600 feet
Fuji Rock Festival
(180 metres) long and weighing over 40 tons, pulled by
Where Niigata, Chubu. When late July.
thousands of participants. The tug-of-war has its roots
Inspired by the UKs Glastonbury Festival, Japans premier
in a 17th-century religious ritual for a successful harvest.
music fest (founded 1997) regularly attracts more than
100,000 partygoers to a stellar line-up of international
F1: Japan Grand Prix
bands. Although the current site is nowhere near Mt Fuji,
When Oct.
the name has remained.
Traditionally held at the end of the Formula One motorracing season, the Japan Grand Prix is often a championship
Summer Sonic
decider, and a must-see for all petrolheads. After nearly
Where Osaka, Kansai and Chiba, Kanto. When early Aug.
20 years of being held at the Suzuka Circuit, near Nagoya,
A two- to three-day music festival held at the same time in
in 2007 it moved back to its original venue, Fuji Speedway,
both Osaka and Chiba (just north of Tokyo). Started
at the foot of Mt Fuji. Since 2008 it has alternated between
in 2000, it attracts a great line-up of Japanese and
the two tracks.
international acts. Details on www.summersonic.com.
Karatsu Kunchi Festival
Nebuta Matsuri
Where Karatsu, Kyushu. When 2-4 Nov.
Where Aomori, Tohoku. When early Aug.
This 400-year-old autumn festival sees processions
Huge nebuta illuminated papier-mch dummies
of gigantic floats hikiyama in the form of samurai
representing historical figures or kabuki characters
helmets, sea bream, flying dragons and other fantastical
are pulled on floats through the streets of Aomori,
creatures. The highlight is on the second day, when the floats
accompanied by people in traditional nebuta costumes,
are pulled by hand along Nishinohama Beach to the sound
playing flutes and drums and dancing wildly.
of drums and flutes.
Tagata Fertility Festival
Where Komaki, Chubu. When Mar.
One of the countrys more eccentric
festivals. Middle-aged men carry
an 800lb wooden phallus down the
streets of Komaki. Crowds of cheering
and slightly intoxicated locals and
foreigners, and pregnant women, push
and shove for the chance to rub the
sacred member, which they believe
will bring luck and fertility.
Traditional Japan
Cool Japan
Crafts
Traditional crafts such as lacquerware, pottery, kimono,
ukiyo-e woodblock prints, calligraphy and woodwork make
great souvenirs. Plenty of places also offer instruction in
the likes of origami, flower-arranging and calligraphy or
even Japanese cookery.
Gardens
Traditional Japanese gardens can be found all over
Japan in city and neighbourhood parks, at Buddhist
temples and Shinto shrines, and at historical landmarks
such as old castles.
Geisha
In Kyoto you can see a geisha dance performance or
tea ceremony demonstration or even have your own
maiko (apprentice geisha) makeover. See page 15.
Ryokan
Immerse yourself in Japanese culture and customs by
spending a night in a traditional Japanese inn. There are
more than 55,000 ryokan in Japan, where you can stay in
a room with tatami (straw mat) flooring, dine on a kaiseki
feast of traditional local foods, change into a yukata (cotton
kimono) after taking an onsen bath, and finally fall asleep on
a futon. See page 39.
Samurai
Visit the ToshoguShrine in Nikko (see page 10), the
mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of Japans greatest
shogun warriors, or become a samurai for a day at the Edo
Wonderland amusement park in Nikko (see page 28).
Mt Fuji
Japans most famous mountain is also its highest, at 12,388
feet (3,776 metres). An ascent to the top is a strenuous but
rewarding once-in-a-lifetime experience. See page 10.
Sumo
Six sumo tournaments are held each year in Tokyo, Osaka,
Nagoya and Fukuoka, each lasting for 15 days (see www.
sumo.or.jp/en/index for details). If your visit doesnt
coincide with a tournament, you can get your sumo fix by
sampling chanko nabe, the hearty stew wrestlers eat to bulk
up, at a sumo restaurant in the Ryogoku area of Tokyo.
Onsen
Soaking in a natural hot spring is the perfect way to
relax after a day of sightseeing. Onsen are found all over
Japan, both indoors and in dramatic outdoor settings such
as by the ocean, next to volcanoes and overlooking Mt Fuji.
There are even hot spring theme parks where you can bathe
in a sake or coffee spa. See page 29.
Temple stays
On the top of Mt Koya, the centre of Shingon Buddhism
in Japan, stand more than 100 temples surrounded by forest.
About 50 of them function as shukubo temple lodgings,
where tourists are welcome to stay overnight, try shojinryori, the vegetarian cuisine of monks, and participate in
the morning meditation. See page 16.
In Japans metropolises, it is the countrys modern urban side that is most visible neon
lights, outrageous fashions, futuristic gadgets, avant-garde architecture, manga though youll
also find historic inns and ancient temples. The countryside is dominated by more traditional
entertainments, such as onsen spas, Buddhist retreats and ryokan inns, but also has its
high-tech touches. Heres how to enjoy the best of both worlds.
Naoshima
The small island of Naoshima in the Seto Inland Sea is an art
lovers paradise. It has an amazing collection of art museums
designed by Tadao Ando, one of Japans most famous modern
architects, and art by the likes of Yayoi Kusama, Claude
Monet and Hiroshi Sugimoto. Theres even an art bathhouse!
For more information, see www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/.
Ghibli Museum
Home to Hayao Miyazaki, Japans counterpart to Walt
Disney, Tokyos Ghibli Museum contains beautiful stills
from Miyazakis films, such as Spirited Away and Princess
Mononoke. Tickets have to be reserved in advance; for
details, see www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/.
Japan on film
Head to Park Hyatt Tokyo to relive Lost in Translation or
to the streets of Gion to feel like youre on the set of Memoirs
of a Geisha. Locations for Tom Cruises The Last Samurai
included Engyo-ji Temple in Himeji, while sites in Tokyo
and elsewhere in Japan were used for 2013s Wolverine,
starring Hugh Jackman.
Bullet trains
Japans shinkansen trains are the safest and fastest
in the world. Youll feel like youve stepped into the future.
Odaiba
On this man-made island in Tokyo Bay youll find some
of Japans most unusual modern architecture. Robot lovers
shouldnt miss the National Museum of Emerging Science
& Innovation and the giant, 60-foot (18-metre) statue of the
anime character Gundam.
0motesando & Harajuku
Tokyos Omotesando is a grand boulevard where the worlds
top fashion labels have built iconic flagship stores. Next door
is Harajuku, a warren of streets selling alternative fashion
by undiscovered designers.
Shibuya crossing
The worlds busiest pedestrian crossing is located outside
the Hachiko exit of Shibuya JR station in Tokyo. Come
here on a Friday evening to see the capitals trendsetting
teenagers strut their stuff.
Tokyo Skytree
Get the best views of Tokyo and see how big the city really
is from the tallest freestanding tower in the world, the 2,080
feet (634 metre)-high Tokyo Skytree. Its open from 8am until
10pm, and adult tickets cost from 2,060; details on www.
tokyo-skytree.jp. For a free alternative, check out the Tokyo
Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku.
Modern Japan
Akihabara
Also known as Electric Town, this Tokyo neighbourhood
is the place to buy electronic gadgets at great prices. Its also
a shopping mecca for otaku, obsessed fans of anime and
manga. Head to one of the many Maid cafs (cosplay-themed
restaurants) to see otaku at play. Drop by the Tokyo Anime
Center to see anime artists at work.
Japan for Families

J
apanese pop culture is a worldwide phenomenon,

with children everywhere playing on Nintendo and
PlayStation games consoles, wearing Hello Kitty
T-shirts, and watching cartoons like Dragon Ball Z,
Pokmon and Astro Boy or anime films such as the Oscarwinning Spirited Away and Howls Moving Castle. As a
result, kids are more likely to be begging their parents to
take them to Disneyland in Japan, rather than in Florida
or Paris. Theres plenty to keep both children and adults
entertained: here are some suggestions.
Japam for Families
Shopping
An absolute must for teenagers is Tokyos Harajuku district,
made famous by Gwen Stefani in her song Harajuku Girls.
Its the epicentre of Japans most extreme teenage cultures
and fashion styles, but also offers shopping for grown-ups
and some historic sights. The focal point is pedestrianised
Takeshita Dori and nearby side streets, which are lined
with fashion boutiques, second-hand clothes shops, quirky
jewellery stalls and fast-food outlets geared towards trendconscious teens. The best time to visit is on Sunday, when the
area heaves with youngsters, including cosplay (costume
play) aficionados dressed up in bizarre outfits to resemble
characters from animated films and manga comic books.
The bright, brash Shibuya district is also a playground for
Tokyos youths, with innumerable shops, cafs, clubs, bars
and restaurants catering for their tastes: pedestrian street
Center Gai is where to see all the action.
For younger children, Tokyos Kiddyland (www.
kiddyland.co.jp) and Hakuhinkan (www.hakuhinkan.co.jp)
are among the most popular toy shops in Japan. Fans of
Pikachu and friends should head for the Pokmon Centre.
Technology & transport

As home to some of the worlds most successful electronic
and automobile companies, Japan has plenty of technologyrelated attractions aimed at families. In Tokyo, Honda
Welcome Plaza offers regular demonstrations of some of
the worlds most advanced robots, and at Toyotas Mega
Web children can ride hybrid mini cars while their parents
test drive the latest road models. On the same site is the giant
Stream of Starlight Ferris wheel at 383 feet/115 metres,
one of the highest in the world which is illuminated with
multicoloured kaleidoscopic patterns at night. For a fun and
educational experience, dont miss the interactive, bilingual
National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation.
A great way to see Tokyo is a river cruise on the spaceage Hotaluna water bus (www.suijobus.co.jp) with its
open-air viewing deck. The boat passes under 13 bridges
en route from futuristic Odaiba to the old downtown area of
Asakusa, home to the citys most famous temple, Senso-ji.

And youll see the Rainbow Bridge spanning Tokyo Bay.
Theme parks
Edo Wonderland (www.edowonderland.net). A historical
theme park in Nikko. For a unique souvenir, get a portrait of
the family dressed in ninja, samurai and geisha costumes.
Fuji-Q Highland (www.fujiq.jp/en). Thrills and spills galore
at this amusement park near Mt Fuji, with five rollercoasters
including the towering Fujyama.
KidZania (www.kidzania.jp). An edutainment park in
Tokyo where children can try out adult roles in realistically
simulated workplaces such as being a pilot, a scientist,
a firefighter or even a fashion designer.
LEGOLANDDiscovery Center (www.legolanddiscovery
center.jp/tokyo/en). Its like youve just jumped into the
biggest box of LEGO bricks ever!
Sanrio Puroland (http://en.puroland.jp). The Tokyo home
of Hello Kitty and all of Sanrios other characters.
Toei Kyoto Studio Park (www.toei-eigamura.com).
A film set and theme park in one. See ninja and samurai
performances or have your whole family made over as
samurai and geisha by movie make-up artists.
Tokyo Disney Resort (www.tokyodisneyresort.jp/
en/). Two adjoining parks on Tokyo Bay, Disneyland and
DisneySea. The latter, the only one in the world, has a
nautical theme, with rides based on Disney works
such as The Little Mermaid and Aladdin.
Universal Studios Japan (www.usj.co.jp). Famous
Hollywood movies, including Spiderman, Shrek, Jurassic
Park and Harry Potter, feature at this film park in Osaka.
School trips
JNTO can help British schools find an establishment in
Japan for educational or exchange visits, and also advise
on itineraries. For a free guide to Japan school trips, email
trade@jnto.co.uk.
Cartoon Culture
W
Ghibli Museum 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi

(0570 055777, www.ghibli-museum.jp/en). Mitaka
station (JR line). Open 10am-6pm Mon, Wed-Sun.
HOT SPRINGS
Like a giant soaked sponge, Japan literally leaks from
thousands of hot springs right across the country. At
some 1,800 of these springs, resorts have been set
up: some are historic, others are more modern. These
onsen rank among Japans most enjoyable attractions,
and offer a mind-boggling array of variations on the
seemingly simple act of soaking in hot mineral waters.
Here are some of the best:
Kinosaki Onsen (Hyogo Prefecture) One of Japans
best and most atmospheric onsen spa towns, with
old-fashioned shops, restaurants and gaming arcades.
Hakone Yumoto Onsen (Kanagawa Prefecture) Dating
back 1,000 years, this is the most venerable of all the
many hot springs in the Hakone area.
Yudanaka Onsen (Nagano Prefecture) This resort
is notable for its monkeys, who enjoy the hot water so
much that they have their own special bath.
Kinugawa Onsen (Tochigi Prefecture) Located in a
picturesque river valley a little over an hour north of
Tokyo, this hot spring provides great scenic views.
Dogo Onsen (Ehime Prefecture) Situated on the island
of Shikoku, this is Japans oldest hot spring resort:its
history dates back 3,000 years.
Beppu Onsen (Oita Prefecture) One of Japans top
resorts, located on the southern island of Kyushu.
Ibusuki (Kagoshima Prefecture) Also on Kyushu, this is
a resort with a difference: instead of hot water, visitors
are buried up to their necks in hot sand, which is said to
have great health benefits.
Be sure to observe onsen etiquette:
Communal bathing is the custom. Before entering the
bath, disrobe in an anteroom and place your robe and
underclothes in a basket or shelf compartment.
Dont worry about going in naked: inns provide bathers
with a hand-towel to drape over their midriff.
Be sure to wash and rinse thoroughly at the showers
and taps outside the bath: its considered very bad form
to get soap in the bath itself. Then you can climb into the
bath for a good soak.
Kyoto International Manga Museum Karasuma-Oike,

Nakagyo-ku (075 254 7414, www.kyotomm.jp). KarasumaOike station on Kyoto City subway (Karasuma or Tozai line).
Tokyo Anime Centre Akihabara UDX 4F, 4-14-1
Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku (03 5298 1188, www.anime
center.jp). Akihabara station (JR line, Tsukuba Express or
Hibiya line). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun.
Cartoon Culture
hen Japanese culture

was presented at the
1867 World Expo in
Paris, it created a European boom
in all things Japanese. Known as
Japonism, this enthusiasm for
Japanese culture had a particular
influence on the art world, when
woodcut prints from the ukiyo-e
school of painting transformed European impressionism.
Japans creative influence on the world remains strong,
thanks to the worldwide popularity of Japanese animation
and comics. Known as manga, Japanese comics amount to
almost 40 per cent of everything published in Japan.
The wide-reaching appeal of manga can be attributed
to the huge variety of interests they cover sport, school
life, science fiction and fantasy, romance, business, war and
even social issues. You can find manga magazines as thick
as phone directories, and epic stories that take numerous
volumes to complete. Manga artists hold the same status
as writers in Japan, and their influence is now being keenly
felt in the West manga has been the fastest growing book
category in the US for some years.
The Japanese anime (animation) industry has also
developed, keeping pace with the comic culture. Anime
directors have produced refined stories dealing with
profound themes, and their unique presentation and use
of graphic techniques have improved despite low budgets.
Today, works by the likes of Studio Ghibli, Pocket Monster
and Dragon Ball earn high praise as Japanese anime while
also exerting considerable influence on Hollywood movies.
Studio Ghiblis film Spirited Away won many awards,
including an Oscar for Best Animated Feature, while Candy
Candy and UFO Robo Grendizer are well known at home
and popular abroad too.
Any discussion of contemporary Japans anime and
comic culture is incomplete without mention of its obsessed
fans. Otaku are passionate consumers and harsh critics of
Japanese animation and comics, with both an exhaustive
knowledge of their favourite works and an insatiable thirst
for related products.
Winter Sports
Winter Sports
hen people think of Japan, they probably think

of temples, sushi or cherry blossom, rather than
winter sports. But its a great destination for
skiing and snowboarding holidays. Over 70 per cent of this
volcanic country is mountainous, and chilly winds blowing
in from Siberia mean that for at least four months of the year
the mountains in the central highlands and northern regions
are blanketed with snow, making Japans ski areas among
the best in the world.
Japan was the first Asian country to host the Winter
Olympics, in Sapporo in 1972, and then again in Nagano
in 1998. Until recently European skiers have been a rarity,
but thats set to change as plenty of British tour operators
now offer winter packages to Japan, including leading ski
specialists such as Crystal and Ski Independence. And
theres a huge choice of resorts an estimated 600 in total,
from the northern island of Hokkaido to Kyushu in the
south. Many are quite small, but overall quality is high,
with modern lifts, well-tended slopes and some of the best
powder in the world. The season is long, with the first snow
arriving in November, most resorts opening in December,
and reliable and abundant snowfall meaning that some
locations stay open until early May. The terrain is often
gentler than in the European Alps, making ideal conditions
for beginners and intermediates, though experts have
excellent off-piste opportunities. Night skiing and other
activities, such as cross-country skiing and snowmobiling,
are also available.
Snowboarding and skiing are very popular with young
Japanese, so resorts are careful to keep prices low. An
average full-day lift pass typically costs about 4,500,
and one-day hire of skis, boots and poles is around
3,000-5,000. The larger resorts offer a wide choice of
accommodation options; rates per person per night range
from around 6,000 including two meals at a minshuku
(Japanese B&B) or skiers lodge, to 20,000 upwards
without meals at a top-end hotel.
Snow monkeys,
Jigokudani
Another plus is that visitors get a completely different

cultural experience compared to skiing in Europe or the
US. Sake and noodles make a change from Western fare,
and the countrys numerous onsen (hot springs) are the
perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes. Because
the resorts are well served by public transport, visitors can
combine a skiing holiday with a city trip to Tokyo or Kyoto.
An annual winter highlight in Hokkaido is the Sapporo
Snow Festival in early February. And dont miss the snow
monkeys at Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park in Yamanouchi,
Nagano Prefecture, where you can see macaques soaking
in the hot springs.
POPULAR RESORTS
In Hokkaido, Niseko (www.niseko.ne.jp/en) is probably the
most popular resort with foreigners, with excellent snow
conditions, birch tree-lined runs and great views of Mt Yotei.
Furano (www.furanotourism.com/en) is ideal for families
and more mature skiers, while Rusutsu (http://en.rusutsu.
co.jp) has a great snowboarding park.
On the central island of Honshu, the best resorts are
located in the mountainous prefectures of Niigata and
Nagano. Shiga Kogen (www.shigakogen.gr.jp) is the
biggest skiable area in Japan, with 21 interlinked resorts
all covered by one lift pass. Hakuba (www.hakubatourism.
jp), at the foot of the Japanese Alps, also offers a mix of
resorts, while compact Nozawa Onsen (www.nozawaski.
com/winter/en) is a good choice for a traditional Japanese
atmosphere and plenty of hot springs. Further north, in
Yamagata Prefecture, Zao Onsen (www.zao-spa.or.jp/
english/index.html) is a small onsen village famous for
its snow monsters outlandish shapes formed by trees
covered in snow and ice.
For detailed information on every ski resort in Japan,
including photographs, maps, snow reports and resort
reviews, visit www.snowjapan.com.
Cruises
A
cruise ship holiday is one of the many ways you can visit Japan. Several international cruise lines include Japanese
ports such as Nagasaki, Kobe, Hiroshima and Kagoshima in their itineraries. Many also offer shore excursions, giving
passengers the opportunity to explore some of Japans popular inland attractions. For more information, visit Cruise
Port Guide of Japan: www.mlit.go.jp/kankocho/cruise.
Prefecture
Main attraction
Dining
Nearest airport
Nearest train station
Otaru
Hokkaido
Otaru Canal, Cape Kamui
seafood
New Chitose Airport

(85min by train )
JR Hakodate Line Otaru

station (15min walk)
Kushiro
Hokkaido
Kushiro wetland,
Lake Akan
seafood, Kushiro
soba noodles
Kushiro Airport
(55min by bus)
JR Hokkaido Kushiro station

(15min walk)
Hakodate
Hokkaido
Motomachi,
Goryokaku
seafood
Hakodate Airport
(45min by car)
JR Hakodate station
(20min walk)
Aomori
Aomori
Tsugaru lacquerware
seafood
Aomori Airport
(30min by bus)
JR Aomori station
(20min walk)
Maizuru
(2hrs from
Kyoto)
Kyoto
Amanohashidate
Kyoto cuisine,
Maizuru kamaboko
fishcake
Kansai International
Airport (2hr 40min
by train or bus )
JR Maizuru Line
Nishi-Maizuru station
(5min by car)
Tokyo
Tokyo
See Tokyo section

(pages 2-8)
numerous
specialities
Tokyo Haneda Airport

(30min by bus)
Tokyo station (Harumi

Wharf), Shinagawa station
(Oi Wharf) (25min by bus)
Yokohama
Kanagawa
Sankei-en Garden,
Hakkeijima Sea Paradise
numerous
specialities
Tokyo Haneda Airport

(30min by bus)
Minatomirai Line Nihon-odori

station (7min walk)
Kanazawa
Ishikawa
Kenroku-en Garden,
Higashi geisha district,
Nagamachi samurai district
Kaga cuisine,
seafood
Komatsu Airport
(40min by bus)
Kanazawa station
(15min by bus)
Osaka
Osaka
Osaka Castle, Universal

Studios Japan
takoyaki,
okonomiyaki
Airport (30min by car)
Osaka subway Chuo-line

Osakako station (5min walk)
Sakai
Tottori
Shirakabe,
Dozogun street
seafood, Izumo
buckwheat soba
noodles
Yonago Kitaro Airport

(10min by car)
JR Sakaiminato station
(10min by car)
Kobe
Hyogo
Night view from Mt Rokko,

Arima onsen
Kobe beef, sak
Kobe Airport
(13min by train)
Kobe Port Liner Port Terminal

station (5min walk)
Hiroshima/
Miyajima
Hiroshima
Peace Memorial Park,

Shukkeien Garden
oysters,
okonomiyaki
Hiroshima Airport
(50min by bus)
JR Sanyo Mainline Hiroshima

station (30min by train or bus)
Hakata
Fukuoka
Canal City, Fukuoka Tower,

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine
tonkotsu, ramen,
yatai (food stalls)
Fukuoka Airport
(25min by car)
JR Hakata station
(15min by bus)
Nagasaki
Nagasaki
Peace Park,
Glover Garden
champon noodles,
castella sponge
cakes
Nagasaki Airport
(40min by bus)
Nagasaki Electric Tramway

Line 5, Oura-Kaigan-Dori
(5min walk)
Beppu
Oita
Yunotsubo street,
Jigokudani spa
Shiroshita plaice,
mackerel
Oita Airport
(1hr by bus)
JR Beppu University station

(5min walk)
Kagoshima
Kagoshima
Mt Sakurajima,
Sengan-en sand bath
pork, beef, shochu
Kagoshima Airport
(55min by car )
JR Ibusuki Makurazaki Line

(30min walk)
Naha
Okinawa
Shurijo Castle,
Naminoue Umisora Park
peanut tofu
Naha Airport
(10min by car )
Yui Rail Monorail Kenchomae station (15min walk)
Ishigaki
Okinawa
Kabira Bay,
Euglena Mall
Okinawa noodles
Isihigaki Airport
(45min by bus)
no train service
Cruises
Port
Flying to Japan
Direct flights from the UK (approx flying time is 12hrs)
DEPARTS
DESTINATION
CONTACT
AIRLINE
All Nippon Airways
London Heathrow
Tokyo (Haneda)
020 8762 8977
www.ana.co.jp
British Airways
London Heathrow
Tokyo (Narita)
0844 493 0787
Tokyo (Haneda)
www.britishairways.com
Japan Airlines
London Heathrow
Tokyo (Haneda)
020 7660 0348
www.uk.jal.com
Most overseas flights arrive at Narita

International Airport, located about
40 miles east of central Tokyo and well
served by both rail and bus links to the
city. There are two terminals; both have
money exchange bureaus, which open
at 6.30am and dont close until the last
flight of the day. Each terminal also
has a tourist information centre (open
8am-8pm).
Clients can validate their Japan Rail
Pass at the airport and begin using it
immediately on the Narita Express
(NEX) into Tokyo.
Haneda Airport
Haneda airport is Japans largest
domestic hub airport with flights to 49
destinations within Japan. Its ideal for
those wishing to connect with domestic
flights to other parts of Japan. Its
also convenient for train travellers,
as it takes only 19 minutes by Keikyu
Airport
Kansai International, Japans secondlargest airport, is located in south-east
Osaka Bay on an artificial island three
miles off the coast and about 40 miles
from Shin-Osaka station with its bullet
train connections. Tourist information
is located on the first floor of the

arrivals hall and is open 7am to 8.30pm
daily. Currency exchange counters are
open between 8.30am and 6pm daily.
Central Japan
International Airport
Nicknamed Centrair, this airport is
located outside Nagoya City, in Aichi
Prefecture. Lufthansa, Finnair, Korean
Air and Etihad Airways offer indirect
flights from UK cities to Centrair.
Narita International Airport

Narita
International
Airport
JR Tokyo Station
JR Narita Express 60min, 3,020

JR rapid train 85min, 1,317
Limousine bus 80min, 3,100
Tokyo City Air

Terminal (TCAT)
Keisei/Toei Asakusa/Keikyu
train (transfer once) 110min,
1,787
Narita International
Airport
Airport Express (single fare 410) to

JR Shinagawa station, where you can
catch JR bullet trains and local trains.
Limousine bus
75min, 3,100
Flying to Japan
n addition to the direct flights

detailed above, numerous airlines
operate regular indirect flights
between the UK and Japan. They
include Air France, Austrian Airlines,
Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Finnair,
KLM and Lufthansa. The journey
takes, on average, 14-15 hours. A few
of these airlines, such as Air France
and KLM, fly from several UK cities,
including Manchester and Edinburgh.
Haneda
Airport
(domestic
flights)
Major hotels
in city centre
Limousine bus 60-110min,

2,700-3,100
JR Shinjuku Station

JR Ikebukuro Station

Keisei Skyliner 41min, 2,470
Keisei limited express 56min, 1,240

Keisei Uneo Station
Tokyo
Yokohama Station
Yokohama City Air
Terminal (YCAT)
Yokohama
Haneda International Airport
AFFORDABLE
JAPAN
Tokyo Monorail/JR Yamanote Line

(transfer once) 30min, 637
JR Tokyo
Station
Keikyu/JR Yamanote Line

Limousine bus 25-45min, 930
Narita
International
Airport
Keisei/Toei Asakusa/Keikyu
train (transfer once) 110min,
1,787
Limousine bus
75min, 3,100
Haneda
International
Airport
JR Shinjuku
Tokyo
StationCity Air
Terminal (TCAT)

Limousine
bus40min,
55min,610
3,000
(transfer
once)
Major hotels
in city centre
Limousine
1,230
Limousinebus
bus35-75min,
60-110min,
2,700-3,100
JR Shinjuku Station
Tokyo Monorail/JR Yamanote Line

JR Ikebukuro
Station
JR
Ikebukuro Station

JR Narita
Express
90min,
(transfer
once)
55min,
6703,190
Keisei Skyliner
41min, 2,470
Limousine
bus 35-80min,
1,230
Keisei limited express 56min, 1,240

Keikyu airport train/Keikyu train
Limousine bus 45min, 580
Keisei Uneo Station
Tokyo
Tokyo
Flying to Japan
Haneda
Airport
(domestic
flights)
JR Tokyo Station
JR Narita
ExpressYamanote
60min, 3,020
Tokyo
Monorail/JR
Line
JR rapidonce)
train 85min,
(transfer
40min, 1,317
677
Yokohama Station
Yokohama Station
Yokohama City Air
Terminal (YCAT)
Yokohama City Air
Terminal (YCAT)
Yokohama
Yokohama
Kansai International Airport

Kansai
International
Airport
JR Shin-Osaka
Station
(via Tennoji Station)
JR limited express Haruka 45min,

3,050 (to Tennoji 30min, 2,430)
(to Tennoji 60min, 1,060)
JR Osaka Station
City centre
Major hotels
Airport bus
75min, 1,950

Airport bus 60min, 1,550
Airport bus to Osaka city centre
and major hotels, 40-70min, 1,550
Nankai Railway
limited express rap:t 35min, 1,390
express 43min, 890
Namba Nankai
Station
Osaka
JR Kyoto Station
JR limited express Haruka 75min,
3,570
Kyoto
Osaka
Airport
(Itami)
JR Sannomiya
Station
Kobe
Japan is not as expensive as you

might imagine and, in fact, compares
very favourably with London. For
example:
A cup of coffee costs on average
the equivalent of about 1.20
(compared to 1.80 in most major
UK coffeeshop chains), while a basic
burger at McDonalds is less than
70p (79p in the UK).
A dish at a conveyor-belt (kaiten)

sushi restaurant can cost as little as
60p, while a filling snack of noodles
at a tachigui-soba stand will set you
back only around 1.70.
A single ride on the Tokyo metro

is just 96p (its 2.20-4.70 on the
London Underground), or you can get
a one-day pass for 4.26.
Rooms at traditional-style minshuku

inns (Japanese B&Bs) can be had for
less than 31 per person.
Getting Around
Getting Around
By air
By bus
The deregulation of Japans airline

industry and the growth in budget
airlines mean that domestic flights
have become much cheaper in
recent years, making air travel an
economical alternative to trains on
some routes. In fact, discounted fares
are so numerous that few travellers
pay the regular full fare.
Both JAL and ANA offer air passes
for overseas visitors, which allow
them to fly anywhere within Japan
for around 11,000 per flight (up to
five flights in total) which is a great
price for long-distance travel, such
as from Tokyo to Kyushu, Okinawa
or Hokkaido. As with the Japan Rail
Pass, these are open only to nonresidents and must be bought outside
Japan and before leaving. Travellers
must also arrive and depart Japan by
international flights. There is a limit
of one pass per airline per person and
visit, and there are restrictions on travel
within peak holiday periods (March,
mid July to August, mid December to
early January).
Highway buses (kosoku bus) are a

viable alternative to trains for some
journeys. Every prefecture and
larger city is served by at least one
bus company; although buses are
significantly slower than express
trains, prices are 20-50 per cent
cheaper. Competition on very popular
routes, such as Tokyo-Nagoya-KyotoOsaka, makes fares even lower. The
journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, for
example, takes seven hours, with
fares starting at 5,000. For more
information and reservations, please
visit willerexpress.com/en/.
JAL oneworld Yokoso/

Visit Japan Fare
Welcome to Japan Fare
www.jal.co.jp/yokosojapan
The oneworld Yokoso pass is the
cheaper option, but travel to/from
Japan must be with oneworld,
which includes JAL, British Airways,
Cathay Pacific and Qantas.
Cost: 10,800 per flight, minimum
one flight.
ANA Visit Japan Fare
www.ana.co.jp/wws/us/e/wws_
common/fare/special/visit.html
A very similar set-up to the JAL
deals.To qualify for a Japan Airpass,
travel to/from Japan must be with
a Star Alliance carrier, including
ANA, United, Lufthansa and
Singapore Airlines.
Cost: 13,000 per flight, minimum
one flight.
By train
Most of Japans vast and efficient rail
network is run by Japan Railways
(JR). One of the fastest ways to travel
is by shinkansen (bullet train), which
travels at speeds of over 186 miles
(300 kilometres) per hour. Tickets can
be purchased at JR reservation Green
Window areas or travel agents. In
Tokyo call the JR East Infoline (050
2016 1603, open 10am to 6pm daily)
for travel information in English.
There are also lines run by private
rail companies, mainly in and around
metropolitan areas.
Slower, cheaper trains go to many
destinations. Marks on the train
platforms show where the numbered
carriages will stop. Some carriages are
reserved seats only (reservations cost
extra), but on each train areas are set
aside for unreserved seating. Arrive
early if you want to sit down.
CITY TRANSPORT
Japans major cities have some of
the most efficient train and subway
systems in the world: in the rare event
of delays in the morning rush, staff
give out apology slips for workers to
show their bosses. Services are fast,
clean, safe, reliable and good value.
And with a little thought and the
right map remarkably easy to use.

Subway and train lines are colourcoded for easy navigation, and almost
all stations have signs in English, and
signs telling you which exit to take.
Subways and trains operate from
5am to around midnight (JR lines
slightly later). Rush hours are 7.309.30am and 5-7pm, and the last train
of the day can be a nightmare.
TICKETS & PASSES
Standard single tickets can be bought
at automatic ticket machines at any
station. Many machines feature
a symbol saying which notes they
accept. Touch-screen ticket machines
can display information in English.
Transferring from one line to
another, provided it is run by the same
operator, will be covered by the price of
your ticket. If you need to transfer from
one network to another, you will have
to buy a transfer ticket (if available) or
another ticket at the transfer point. For
routes and prices, visit interactive route
planner www.jorudan.co.jp/english/.
Buying individual tickets is timeconsuming, so youre better off buying
a smartcard such as the Suica card in
Tokyo or the ICOCA card in Osaka/
Kyoto. Similar to Londons Oyster card,
these rechargeable cards can be bought
from ticket machines at major stations
for a refundable 500 deposit, and
will work on most buses, subways and
trains across the entire country. Just
tap in and out at the ticket gates. If you
dont have enough money on the card to
cover your trip, you must recharge it at a
fare adjustment machine.
Or consider a cost-saving travel
pass, as described below. For travelling
from region to region or nationwide, the
Japan Rail Pass (see right) is essential.
Enjoy Eco Card
www.osaka-info.jp/en
Gives unlimited one-day use within
Osaka City limits on city-operated
subways, New Tram and buses. It also
provides discounts on admission fees
to cultural and tourist attractions.
Cost: 800.
Hakone Freepass
www.odakyu.jp/english/deels/freepass/
hakone
A discount excursion ticket, valid for
two or three days, covering transport
to Hakone from Shinjuku and use of
transport networks within the Hakone
area. The pass also includes discounts
to various attractions. Cost: 5,140 two
days, 5,640 three days.
Hokkaido Rail Pass
www.jrhokkaido.co.jp
Three days of unlimited use on
JR trains and JR-affiliated buses
within the JR Hokkaido area. Buy an
exchange order in your home country
before you travel or purchase the pass
in Japan. Cost: 15,430.
Kansai Area Pass

www.westjr.co.jp
A one- to four-day pass that offers
unlimited use of standard trains and
Haruka non-reserved trains in the
Kansai area (including Kyoto, Nara,
Osaka and Kobe). Cost: 2,060 one day,
4,110 two days, 5,140 three days,
6,170 four days.
Kansai Thru-Pass
www.surutto.com
Gives unlimited two- or three-day
use on private railways, subways
and buses in the Kansai area, as
well as discounts on admission
fees to various cultural and tourist
attractions. Cost: 4,000 two days,
5,200 three days.
Minato Burari Ticket

www.yokohama-bus.jp/
burari/en
Gives unlimited one-day use on
subways and buses in and around the
Yokohama Port area, and discounts on
admission fees to cultural and tourist
attractions. Cost: 500.
Tokyo Tour Ticket
(Tokyo Furii Kippu)
www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/tokyo_free.
html
Gives unlimited rides on local and
rapid JR East trains within the 23
Special Wards of Tokyo, as well
as on the subways, Tokyo Toei
streetcars and the Toei Bus system.
Cost: 1,590.
JRPASS
The Japan Rail Pass (www.japan

railpass.net) provides for virtually
unlimited travel on the entire national
JR network, including shinkansen
and all JR lines in Tokyo, including
the Yamanote line, but excluding the
Nozomi super-express shinkansen.
It costs from 29,110 for seven
days, about the same price as a
middle-distance shinkansen return
ticket its essential for travelling
around Japan.
The JR Pass is available only to
visitors from overseas travelling
under the status of temporary
visitor, and must be purchased
before coming to Japan. You buy an
exchange order abroad; its then
changed into an actual pass on
arrival in Japan at an exchange office
(youll need your passport too).
JR Pass holders receive discounts
of about ten per cent off room rates
at JR Hotel Group hotels. A list of
almost three dozen affiliated hotels
is provided to pass holders.
JR East, which runs trains in and
around Tokyo, has its own version of
the pass, which costs from 22,000
for five days: www.jreast.co.jp/e/

eastpass. If youre not intending to
travel beyond the JR East area (Tokyo
and the region to the north and east),
this is a sensible choice. The same
conditions apply.
Ffestiniog Travel
PASS TYPES & COSTS

There are two classes of JR Pass:
an Ordinary Pass and a first-class
Green Pass (the main advantage
of the latter being less crowded
trains). Each is available for periods
of seven, 14 or 21 days. The costs
for adult passes are listed below;
children aged six to 11 pay half
these prices.
www.intojapan.co.uk
www.ffestiniogtravel.com
Inside Japan Tours

www.insidejapantours.com
International Rail
www.internationalrail.com
Into Japan Specialist Tours

Jaltour
www.jaltour.co.uk
Japan Experience
www.japan-experience.com
Japan Journeys
www.japanjourneys.co.uk
Japan Railpass Online

www.jrpassonline.com
Japan Travel Centre

www.japantravel.co.uk
Duration Ordinary Green

7 days
29,110 38,880
14 days 46,390 62,950
21 days 59,350 81,870
JRPass
JR PASS AGENTS
For a complete list of JR Pass
agents in the UK, refer to
www.seejapan.co.uk.
www.miki.co.uk
www.jrpass.com
JTB UK
www.japanspecialist.co.uk
Miki Travel
My Bus
www.mybus.co.uk
Reliance Tours
www.reliancetravel.co.uk
ANA Tours
STA Travel
www.anatoursjapan.com
www.statravel.co.uk
Audley Travel
TopTour Europe
www.audleytravel.com
www.tteuk.com
Trailfinders
www.trailfinders.com
Travelbag
www.travelbag.co.uk
AWL Travel
www.awlt.com
Bridge The World

www.bridgetheworld.com
E-tours
Via Japan/HIS UK
www.etoursjapan.co.uk
www.viajapan.co.uk
General Information
Conventions &
conferences
General Information
Japan hosts more conventions and

exhibitions than any other Asian
country, and has a huge choice of
venues, suppliers and activities. The
Japan Convention Bureau can
help you find the best fit for your
meeting; for more information, contact
its London office (020 7283 2130,
margaret@jnto.co.uk).
Customs
The duty-free allowances for nonresidents coming into Japan are:
400 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 250g
of tobacco; three 750ml bottles of
spirits; 57g (2oz) of perfume; gifts or
souvenirs up to a value of 200,000.
There is no limit on the amount of
Japanese or foreign currency that
can be brought into the country.
Driving
Driving is not recommended in major
cities. However, you may wish to rent
a car for travel in rural areas, such as
Hokkaido, Tohoku, Shikoku and the
like. To rent a car you will need your
passport and your drivers licence.
Depending on your nationality, you
will also need an international drivers
licence or a Japanese translation of
your licence. You must carry your
national licence and international
permit together when driving in Japan.
You can reserve a rental car online in
advance, and most car hire companies
have English websites. Most cars
come with a GPS built into the
dashboard, though not all systems
are English-capable.
For more information on driving
in Japan, visit the Japan Automobile
Federations website at www.jaf.or.
jp/e/. For car rental companies in Japan,
visit www.seejapan.co.uk and click on
Transportation in Japan.
Electricity
Internet & email
The electric current in Japan runs at

100V AC, rather than the 220-240V
European standard. Plugs have
two flat-sided prongs. If youre
bringing electrical appliances from
Europe, youll need an adapter.
Many of Tokyos 24-hour manga

coffeeshops (manga kissa) also offer
cheap internet services, and are usually
clustered around train stations. An
up-to-date list of wireless hotspots in
Japan can be found at www.hotspotlocations.com.
Embassies
Embassies are usually open 9am to
5pm Monday to Friday.
British Embassy
1 Ichibansho, Chiyoda-ku (03 5211
1100, www.gov.uk/government/world/
japan). Hanzomon station (Hanzomon
line), exit 4.
Emergencies
To contact the police (keisatsu) in
an emergency, call 110; to call an
ambulance (kyukyu-sha) or fire
department (shoubousho), call 119.
For a public phone, press the red button
first. The person answering should, in
theory, speak English.
Health
Visitors will be expected to pay the full
amount for any treatment received,
so should take out medical insurance
before leaving their own country. No
vaccinations are required to enter Japan.
Helplines
The Japan Helpline is a non-profitmaking worldwide assistance service.
Visitors to Japan can call about
anything, from a simple question to
emergency help.
Japan Helpline
0570 000 911, 0120 461 997 toll-free,
www.jhelp.com. Open 24hrs daily.
Language
There is only one official language spoken
in Japan, which is, of course, Japanese.
However, many Japanese are able to
understand English to a certain extent
since English is compulsory at school.
You dont need to understand
Japanese to get by in Japan, but
learning a few everyday phrases
goes a long way to breaking the
ice. Pronunciation presents few
problems for native English-speakers;
consonants are pronounced the same
as in English, but are always hard:
g as in girl, rather than gyrate,
for example. The only exceptions are
the l/r sound, which is one sound
in Japanese and falls halfway between
the English pronunciation of the two
letters; and v, which is pronounced as
a b. Remember to separate each syllable;
for example, made (until) is pronounced
ma-de, not the English made.
Hello/hi kon nichi wa
Goodbye sayoonara
Yes/no hai/iie
Please onegai shimasu
Thank you ariagatoo
Cheers! kampai
Reading is another matter. The
Japanese writing system is fiendishly
complicated and is the main deterrent
to learning the language. Japanese uses
two syllabaries (not alphabets, because
the letters represent complete sounds),
hirigana and katakana, in conjunction
with kanji, characters imported
from China centuries ago. Learning
katakana is relatively simple and will
yield quick results, since it is used

mainly to spell out foreign words.
Lost property
If you leave a bag or package
somewhere, just go back: it will
probably still be there. If you left it
in a train station or other public area,
go to the stationmasters office or
nearest koban (police box) and ask for
English-language assistance.
Money
The yen is not divided into smaller
units and comes in denominations
of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500
(coins) and 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 and
10,000 (notes). Prices on display must
include five per cent sales tax. At the
time of writing, 1 = 178.
Changing money
You can cash travellers cheques
or change foreign currency at any
Opening hours
Department stores and larger shops
in Tokyo are open daily from 10am
(sometimes earlier, sometimes later)
to around 8pm or 9pm. Smaller shops
are open the same hours six days
a week. Monday and Wednesday
are the commonest closing days;
Sunday is a normal shopping day
Convenience stores offer 24-hour
shopping at slightly higher prices
than supermarkets, and are found
all over the city.
Banks are open 9am to 3pm Monday
to Friday. Main post offices are open
9am to 7pm weekdays, and often on
Saturdays (usually 9am to 3pm) or even
Sundays; smaller post offices close at
5pm Monday to Friday and at weekends.
Office hours are 9am to 5pm. On
national holidays, many places keep
Sunday hours (closing earlier), but
most are closed on 1 and 2 January.
Most restaurants open at 11am
and close around 11pm, though some
bars and izakaya (Japanese pubs) are
open till 5am. Some dont close until the
last customer has gone.
Postal services
Sending a postcard overseas costs 70;
aerograms cost 90; letters under 25g
cost 110. Post offices (yubin-kyoku)
indicated by a red and white sign
like a letter T with a line over it are
plentiful. Local post offices open from
9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. You can
also buy stamps at convenience stores.
Religion
The Religion Yearbook issued by the
Agency for Cultural Affairs suggests
that 208 million Japanese are members of
religious organisations and thats almost
twice the population of the country. Its not
unusual for a family to celebrate birth with
Shinto rites, tie the knot with a Christian
ETIQUETTE
A guide to Japanese etiquette could
fill volumes and still not capture all
the intricacies of the social rules.
However, few Japanese understand
these rules in any depth, and still
fewer expect foreigners to follow
them. That leaves just a few basic
dos and donts to bear in mind.
DO
Take your shoes off. Anytime
you enter a home, public bath or
Japanese-style restaurant or inn.
If you see a raised step leading to
wood or tatami mats, its time to
slip on the slippers.
Refuse a compliment. Thanking
someone for a flattering comment
smacks of arrogance in Japan.
Use the money trays. Many shop
staff prefer customers to place
their money on small trays. Your
change may come this way, or
balanced on a banknote.
DONT
Pour your own beer. Hold your
glass while a fellow drinker pours,
and be sure to keep their glass
topped up too.
Place your chopsticks vertically
in your food, or use them to pass
food. Both signify death.
Blow your nose in public. Sniffle
or snort if you need to, but keep
the nasal juice in.
If you bear these basic rules in
mind, your hosts should forgive
your more subtle indiscretions. In
return, you will need to relax your
own rules; bumping and barging are
part of life in Japan and rarely elicit
an apology.
marriage, and pay last respects at a

Buddhist ceremony. Freedom of worship
is a constitutional right.
Safety
Japan is one of the safest countries
for foreign visitors. Theft is still
amazingly rare. Of course, crime does
occur from time to time and its best
to take the usual precautions to keep
money and valuables safe.
General Information
ATMs & credit cards

Japan is still a cash-based society,
and restaurants and bars may refuse
credit cards. Larger shops, hotels and
restaurants accept major cards, but you
should always keep some cash on you.
ATMs are rarely open after 7pm
and often close at 5pm on Saturdays.
Many banks charge for withdrawals
made after 6pm, and on Sundays and
public holidays. Still, there is a growing
number of 24-hour ATMs in Tokyo,
mostly round major train stations. All
ATMs display logos showing which
cards are accepted, but most will not
take foreign-issued cards.
Among the banks, Citibank is
the most useful, with 24-hour ATMs all
over Tokyo (information 045 330 2890).
The ATMs at Narita Airport only
work during banking hours, so make
sure you have some Japanese cash if
arriving early in the morning
or late at night.
The numerous post offices
also have ATMs that allow you to
withdraw cash on foreign Visa,
Plus, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro,
Cirrus, AmEx, Diners and JCB cards,
and have instructions in English.
Since 2007, it also possible to use
foreign-issued credit cards at almost
17,000 7-Eleven convenience stores
all over Japan. To find an ATM, go to:
www.sevenbank.co.jp/english/.
authorised foreign exchange bank

(look for the signs). If you want to
exchange money outside regular
banking hours, some large hotels
change travellers cheques and
currency, as do large department
stores, which are open until about 8pm.
Narita Airport has several bureaux de
change staffed by English-speakers,
open daily from 7am to 10pm.
AVERAGE TEMPERATURE & RAINFALL

Sapporo
Sendai
Tokyo
Nagoya
Osaka
Fukuoka
Naha
Winter (January)
Temp Rainfall
F
C
mm
26.4. -4.1 111
34.7 1.5 33
42.4 5.8 49
39.7 4.3 43
42.4 5.8 44
43.5 6.4 72
61.9 16.6 114
General Information
Telephones
The country code for Japan is 81. The
area code for Tokyo is 03 (075 for Kyoto
and 098 for Okinawa) although you
dont need to dial it when calling from
within the city. To phone Tokyo from
outside Japan, dial the international
access code plus 81 plus 3, followed by
the main eight-digit number. Numbers
that start with 0120 are freephone
(receiver-paid or toll-free).
International calls
Different companies provide
international call services, and charge
roughly the same rates. Dial 001 010
(KDDI), 0061 010 (Softbank) or 0033
010 (NTT Communications), followed
by your countrys international code,
area code (minus any initial zero) and
the phone number. The cheapest time
to call overseas is between 11pm and
8am, when an off-peak discount of
40 per cent applies.
Public phones are widely available,
in stations, department stores and
on the street. Youll need to buy a
prepaid card or have a lot of change
(10 and 100 coins) some old
phones refuse all prepaid cards. Find a
grey telephone with International on
the screen. Blue credit phones allow
you to make calls using your credit
card. Instructions should be given in
English as well as Japanese.
Prepaid phone cards
Several kinds of international phone
card can be bought in Tokyo, and you can
often find promotions for phone cards in
free English-language magazines such
as Metropolis. KDDI (www.001.kddi.
com) produces a Super World prepaid
card for international calls. The card is
sold at most major convenience stores,
and comes in five values (500, 1,000,
3,000, 5,000 and 7,000). It can be
used with any push-button phone.
Spring (April)
Temp Rainfall
F C
mm
44.1 6.7 61
50.2 10.1 98
57.9 14.4 130
57.4 14.1 143
58.6 14.8 121
58.6 14.8 125
70.3 21.3 181
Summer (July)
Temp Rainfall
F
C
mm
68.9 20.5 67
71.8 22.1 160
77.7 25.4 162
78.8 26.0 218
81.0 27.2 155
80.4 26.9 266
83.3 28.5 176
Mobile phones
Not all mobile phones from the UK
or Europe will work in Japan, though
3G models will check with your
service provider before leaving.
Foreign visitors can also rent a
Japanese mobile, for use with either
a Japanese SIM card or your own
SIM. Pick-up points for the phones
vary from company to company, but
generally include Narita, Kansai and
Nagoya international airports, and
various major hotels. Reservations
can be made before you depart;
see www.seejapan.co.uk/jnto_
consumer/plan-your-trip/practicalinformation/telephone.
Time
Japan is nine hours ahead of
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
Daylight Saving Time is not used.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected, and people
will often be embarrassed if you try.
If you leave money at a restaurant, for
example, a member of staff may try to
return it. At smarter joints, a service
charge is often included.
Tourist information
The Japan National Tourist
Organization (JNTO) is the national
English-language tourist service for
visitors to Japan. Its website, www.
jnto.go.jp, is packed with useful info,
and it also has a UK-specific site, www.
seejapan.co.uk. For tourist offices in
Tokyo, see page 3; for Kyoto, see page
13. Walking guides, local attractions
and restaurant searches are available
for smartphones on: http://m.japan.
travel/eng/index.php.
Autumn (October)
Temp Rainfall
F
C
mm
52.3 11.3 124
58.6 14.8 99
64.8 18.2 163
63.7 17.6 117
65.7 18.7 109
65.7 18.7 81
76.8 24.9 163
Travellers with
disabilities
Japans buses and trains have special

seats for the elderly and disabled,
though its best to avoid travelling at
peak hours. The shinkansen bullet
trains have special seats for the
disabled that can be booked in advance.
More than 4,000 train and subway
stations are equipped with lifts or
escalators, including those in major
tourist areas. An increasing number
of hotels offer wheelchair-accessible
rooms, though this is the exception
rather than the rule.
For more on accessibility, see
the Japanese Red Cross Language
Service Volunteers website at
http://accessible.jp.org, or log on to
Accessible Japan at www.japanaccessible.com.
Useful websites
Eating out
Restaurant Search www.gnavi.
co.jp/en
Route planner
HyperDia www.hyperdia.com
Jorudan www.jorudan.co.jp/english/
Enter Japanese cities or Tokyo stations
and you will be given recommended
routes between them.
Visa information
Embassy of Japan in the UK
www.uk.emb-japan.go.jp
Weather
Japan Meteorological Agency
www.jma.go.jp/jma/indexe.html
Whats on
Metropolis metropolis.co.jp
Tokyos English-language magazine,
covering clubs, concerts and galleries.
Visas
Where to stay
The UK has visa-exemption

arrangements with Japan, and its citizens
may stay for up to 90 days. Japan also
has working holiday visa arrangements
with the UK for people aged 18 to 30.
For information, go to the Ministry of
Foreign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp).
Japans accommodation scene is

everything you would expect from
one of the worlds most developed
countries. Choices range from highly
exclusive hotels to humble rooms with
straw mats. Budget travellers should
be able to find somewhere to sleep and
still have money left over for noodles.
A traditional Japanese-style inn
(known as a ryokan) provides a great
way to enhance your enjoyment
of Japan. Or if youre interested
in meeting locals in a domestic
environment, minshuku are the
equivalent of a Western B&B.
When to go
Public holidays
Japan has 14 public holidays:
New Years Day (Ganjitsu) 1 January
Coming of Age Day (Seijin no Hi)
second Monday in January
National Foundation Day (Kenkoku
Kinen no Hi) 11 February
Vernal Equinox Day (Shumbun no Hi)
around 21 March
Greenery Day (Midori no Hi) 29 April
Constitution Day (Kempo Kinenbi)
3 May
Childrens Day (Kodomo no Hi) 5 May
Marine Day (Umi no Hi) 20 July
Respect for the Aged Day (Keiro no Hi)
15 September
Autumnal Equinox Day (Shubun no Hi)
around 23 September
Sports Day (Taiiku no Hi)
second Monday in October
Culture Day (Bunka no Hi)
3 November
Labour Thanksgiving Day (Kinro
Kansha no Hi) 23 November
Emperors Birthday (Tenno Tanjobi)
23 December.
Booking outfits
The following agencies offer online
reservations for hotels and ryokan
of various categories nationwide.
Japan City Hotel Association
www.jcha.or.jp
A collective of owners of mid-priced
hotels. The website offers direct links
to each member hotel.
Japan Economy Hotel Group
www.kid97.co.jp/~jeh-group/jeh-group.html
Japan Hotel Association

www.j-hotel.or.jp
An umbrella organisation composed
of the leading hotels of Japan. All
member hotels have received a
ministerial seal of approval.
Yado Nihon
www.ryokan.or.jp
Over 1,200 quality establishments.
Members must comply with a host
of regulations relating to aesthetics,
privacy and hygiene.
Japan Youth Hostels
www.jyh.or.jp/english/
Some 350 facilities scattered
throughout the country from Hokkaido
to Okinawa, offering accommodation
from 3,000 per night.
Japanese Inn Group
www.japaneseinngroup.com
An umbrella organisation founded
and run by ryokan owners across
Japan, offering direct links to members
premises via its website (which also
has a great FAQ section).
FANCY A FUTON?
If you can bear to forgo a few home
comforts, such as a bed and soft
pillow, then staying in a ryokan
(traditional Japanese inn) is a great
choice, particularly since they tend
to be cheaper than Western-style
hotels. Ryokan also make excellent
lodgings for groups of more than
two: you can have as many futons
as you can fit on the tatami (straw
mat) floor, for an extra charge that
is significantly less than the price
of another room.
There are a few matters of
ryokan etiquette. First, remove your
shoes when entering. Staff will show
you to your room, and introduce
you to the waiting flask of hot water
and green tea. Decor will include
a shoji (sliding paper screen) and
a tokonoma (alcove), which is for
decoration not for storing luggage.
Inside a cupboard you will find a
yukata (dressing gown, worn left
side over right) and tanzen (bed
jacket), for indoor wear.
By day the futons are folded away

in a cupboard, providing much more
living space than a room with fixed
beds. Staff will make up the futons
at around 8pm. Theyll be back the
following morning at about 8am with
breakfast. More expensive ryokan
usually have private bathrooms, but
at the cheaper end of the scale you
will be expected to bathe Japanesestyle in a communal bath.
Most ryokan are family-run, so
many impose a curfew of 11pm.
If youre going to be out later, tell
your hosts. If a curfew doesnt
suit you, check with the individual
ryokan in advance.
General Information
Spring begins with winds and cherry

blossom viewing. The rainy season
for Honshu (the main island) begins
in June. This is followed by the hot,
humid days of summer. Autumn
sees the changing of the leaves, while
winter brings clear skies, cold days
and even the occasional snowstorm.
Temperatures in Tokyo range from
around 3C (37F) in January to 35C
(95F) in July/August.
Summer in Tokyo can be unbearable
for those not used to humidity. Carry
a fan, some water and a wet cotton
cloth with you. Fans are often handed
out in the street as part of advertising
campaigns. Spring (March to May)
and autumn (September to November)
are the nicest times to visit Tokyo.
The two major holiday periods,
when much of Tokyo shuts down, are
Golden Week (29April-5 May) and the
New Year (28 Dec-4 Jan).
Reasonable room rates, convenient

locations and comfortable rooms with
bath and toilet, at hotels across Japan.
For Tour Operators

& Agencies
Tour Operators
JNTO London Trade website is designed to give travel professionals the knowledge and
contacts they need to sell Japan. Visit www.seejapan.co.uk/jnto_trade/trade_home.
Japan online training
In 2013, 191,798 UK travellers visited Japan the highest
number among European countries. This number is
increasing, but how much do you know about Japan?
JNTOs Japan online training is very simple, concise
and consists of only six modules packed with essential
knowledge to sell Japan. Once you have completed the
modules, you will feel confident to recommend Japan
holidays to your clients. The modules are:
1. Japan Basics 1
How to get to Japan, flight information,
the best time to visit.
2. Japan Basics 2
Visas, mobile phones and money.
3. Japanese Culture
Is Japan expensive? Japanese cuisine.
4. Stay and Explore
Learn about the JR Pass, the top-value train
discount.
5. Golden Route
Popular tourist routes for first-time visitors.
6. Special Interests
Cultural experiences, skiing and anime.
Training at your company
Free Japan sales training for reservation teams is
also available, so please get in touch.
Ground arrangements
The Planning page of the website contains airline
and ground handler contacts.
Images, brochures & materials
Digital images of Japan suitable for websites and printing
are free to download from the Image Library. JNTO
also provides useful maps and guides for your reference
and for your clients. A general Japan guide and popular
destination guides are available. Please email us what you
require and your postal address; we will select suitable
material and send it to you (subject to availability).
Statistics
JNTO releases monthly visitor arrival reports, including
visitor numbers by market. Go to Statistics to see the
latest Japan tourism statistics.
Latest offer promotion
Please inform us of your best travel deals and well upload
them to the Latest Offer page free of charge.
Find your trip search
We have a Trip search engine for Japan products operated
by UK tour operators. If your company is not yet included,
please let us know.
Trade contact: trade@jnto.co.uk 020 7398 5670
300 km
150 miles
Copyright Time Out Group 2015
Hokkaido
Home to vast expanses
of unspoilt mountain
scenery and abundant
wildlife, Hokkaido is a
nature-lovers paradise. Its
cool temperate summers
bring spectacular blooms
of flowers while worldclass ski resorts mean
its also a great winter
destination.
CHINA
Asahikawa
Hokkaido
Sapporo
Chubu
The iconic sight of
Mt Fuji dominates
for miles around,
and the panoramic
mountains of the Japan
Alps provide well-worn
hiking trails in the
warmer months and
fantastic skiing
in winter. The Chubu
region is also home
to the picturesque
historic towns of
Kanazawa and Takayama.
Hakodate
Tohoku
The Tohoku region has its own particular rustic
charm, with a slower pace of life, rich natural
beauty and countless hot spring resorts, not to
mention the friendly local people.
Kanto
Home to Tokyo, the Kanto region also
boasts cultural attractions such as the
ancient capital of Kamakura and the
impressive temple complex of Nikko,
set among beautiful scenery of lakes
and waterfalls.
S E A O F
Chugoku
Aomori
Akita
Tohoku
Sendai
Yamagata
J A P A N
Fukushima
Niigata
Chugoku & Shikoku

Highlights of the Chugoku
region are the city
of Hiroshima, where the
Memorial Peace Park
is a poignant symbol of
its tragic past, and the
nearby island of Miyajima,
whose shrine is one of the
most picturesque sights
in Japan. The Inland Sea
separates this region from
Shikoku, Japans fourth
Matsue
largest island.
Nikko
Kanto
Toyama
Kanazawa
JAPAN
TOKYO
Yokohama
Takayama
Chubu
Kamakura
Nagoya
Kyoto
Okayama
Kushiro
Travel
beyond
the clichs
Kobe
Hiroshima
Kansai
The cultural heart of
Japan is its ancient
capital of Kyoto, with
its many stunning
temples and gardens,
as well in its even
older neighbour Nara.
By contrast, the city of
Osaka offers a taste of
vibrant modern Japan,
though it also boasts
its own impressive
castle, as does the
nearby town of Himeji.
Kansai
Osaka
P A C I F I C
O C E A N
Wakayama
Tokushima
Written by local experts, rated

Top Guidebook Brand by Which?
Matsuyama
Fukuoka
Nagasaki
Kitakyushu
Shikoku
Kumamoto
Kyushu
Miyazaki
Kagoshima
Okinawa
Kyushu & Okinawa

The southern island of Kyushu
offers lush greenery, hot
springs and mysterious volcanic
formations. Highlights are the
charming city of Nagasaki and
the volcano Mt Aso. Further
south, the tropical island chain
of Okinawa boasts amazing coral
reefs, white sand beaches and
a fascinating cultural heritage
that is a mix between Japan and
South-east Asia.
On sale now at timeout.com/guidebooks
Keep up, join in
Japan National
Tourism Organization
Need to know more about Japan?
Contact the Japan National Tourism
Organizations London office the
best source of Japan travel information.
For a free Japan information pack, please email
info@jnto.co.uk or telephone 020 7398 5678.
You can also visit the JNTO office at 5th Floor,
12 Nicholas Lane, London EC4N 7BN. Office
hours are Monday to Friday 9.30am to 5.30pm.
Extensive travel information, and a full list of tour operators offering
Japan cruises and holidays, can be found on the JNTO website
www.seejapan.co.uk
Contact your local

Japan specialist to
book a Japan holiday:
Japan
Essential

2015 Japan

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Japan National

Contact your local

Chugoku & Shikoku

Written by local experts, rated

Kyushu & Okinawa

On sale now at timeout.com/guidebooks

Keep up, join in

Supplement Editor Cath Phillips

ESSENTIAL JAPAN TIME OUT 1

ost of the clichs are true. Tokyo is a neon-wrapped,

comprehensive and efficient train and subway systems

The main torii leading

The nearby area of Marunouchi is Tokyos central

known as Tocho, are also here. Completed in 1991, the

Tokyos youth have made Shibuya their playground,

worlds top contemporary architects. Every self-respecting

over the neighbourhood, but for the visitor, the greatest

Asakusa can also be the starting point for a cruise on

HIGHLIGHTS OF TOKYOS ANNUAL CALENDAR

NEW YEARS DAY

NEW YEAR GRAND SUMO TOURNAMENT

Date mid Jan.

TOKYO INTERNATIONAL ANIMATION FAIR

Date late Mar.

MEIJI JINGU SPRING FESTIVAL

Date 29 Apr-early May.

Date mid May/mid June.

Date third weekend in May.

SUMIDA RIVER FIREWORKS

Date last Sat in July.

ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL

Date late Aug.

MEIJI JINGU GRAND AUTUMN FESTIVAL

TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

Date early Nov.

the Asahi TV studio. In the middle is Moris eponymous

to shrines and temples to a zoo, but is particularly famed for

of the Fuji TV headquarters, crowned by a 1,200-tonne

Japans haute cuisine: a sequence

Pieces of meat, seafood or

NABEMONO AND ONE-POT COOKING

One-pot stews cooked at the table

Tender cuts of meat (usually beef)

Raw fish or other delicacies on

Seafood and vegetables deep fried

TEPPANYAKI, OKONOMIYAKI AND MONJA

NOODLES: SOBA, UDON AND RAMEN

Soba (thin, grey, made from

Fish cakes, tofu, vegetables and

Raw fish, delicately sliced and

Teppanyaki is beef cooked on a flat

Pork dredged in flour, dipped in

Fillets of freshwater eel, basted

Skewered bits of chicken cooked

ou dont have to travel very far from Tokyo to

of 700 years of domination by shoguns. The new military

Information window at Kamakura station. Most temples

Those in a hurry can make the most of their time by

yoto was Japans capital for 1,200 years, and remains

But even a couple of days is enough to glimpse something

The Heian Period (794-1185) saw the apogee of classical

12 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN

and other neighbourhoods, the government has to date

Kyoto Tourist Information Decks