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Several years ago, I experienced a hard drive failure. I was at work when my laptop suddenly
started to act particularly strange. First, I thought it was because I had too many windows
open and the RAM was full, but when the problems persisted after a reboot, I knew it was
more than that. I immediately started to back up recent files. About half an hour later, the hard
drive failed audibly and the laptop wouldnt boot anymore.
Thank God I had backups! Except that I didnt have backups of everything. Just weeks earlier
my backup drive had reached capacity. To back up important work files, I had decided to
delete my personal photos. The irony was that I had already purchased a new external drive,
but had not taken the time to back up my photos. Now they were lost and I was devastated.
Over the next couple of weeks I researched ways to recover the data and considered doing
everything under the sun and did most of it to revive the old hard drive. I eventually did
recover my data, but not in the way you would expect. If your hard drive has failed physically,
maybe this little guide can help you or at least give you some hope. So roll up your sleeves
and get to work.
External Hard Drive? Check Whether The IDE / SATA to USB Enclosure Is
OK!
When your external hard drive fails, it can do so for all the same reasons an internal drive can
fail. Sometimes, however, its not the drive that stops working, but a connection within the
enclosure! And in that case, the drive is easy to revive.
Before you open up any hardware, be sure to discharge your bodys static electricity,
i.e. ground yourself. Remove the hard drive from its casing and use a IDE / SATA data
cable and power connector to install the drive internally on your desktop computer.
Alternatively, you can get an IDE / SATA to USB adapter or a new USB enclosure, so you can
hook the drive up externally via USB.
The image above shows a SATA connector (left) and an IDE connector (right).
Once you re-connected the external drive to your computer, given the enclosure was the
culprit, Windows should recognize it and assign a drive letter. If this doesnt happen, you can
try to manually find your drive to further narrow down the issue; the process is described
further down.
Internal Hard Drive? Make Sure The Hard Drive Connections Are OK!
Sometimes, its not the drive that failed, but the physical connection of cables that connect the
drive with the computers motherboard. You can only wish that this is your problem! So
before you hire an expensive technician, make sure the data and power cables are firmly
connected on both ends.
To prevent hazards to your health, its essential to turn off the computer and unplug the power
cord. As mentioned above, you also need to discharge your bodys static electricity, i.e.
ground yourself before you get working on your computers internals. Then open up the case
and make sure all connections are OK. Our guide on how to physically install an internal hard
drive shows which connections to watch out for.
Once you have made sure the connections are OK, boot the computer again. If you have a
desktop computer, you can leave the case open, but stay clear of its interior.
The damage can be either internal or external. A clicking sound, for example, is suggestive of
a malfunctioning head, i.e. internal damage. A completely dead drive, on the other hand, could
be due to a faulty printed circuit board (PCB), which would be external damage.
If you have hooked up the drive to another computer, you dont need to access the BIOS at
all. In Windows, click the key combination [Windows] + [R], which will launch the Run
input window. Type cmd into the field and hit [Enter]. This will open the Command Prompt.
Here type diskpart and hit [Enter], to open the respective tool. In the diskpart window,
type list volume and hit [Enter] to show all drives connected to your computer.
If the drive is recognized and thus appears in the list above, but doesnt show up as an
accessible drive, chances are Windows only recognizes the PCB, but the drive itself is
damaged (internal damage). In other words, if the drive is recognized in any shape or form,
the PCB is most likely working and replacing it will not fix the hard drive!
Is The Printed Circuit Board Broken?
As mentioned previously, your drive can be damaged internally or externally. The external
PCB, if damaged, is relatively easy to replace. However, data recovery specialists warn
that swapping the PCB can ruin the drive and cause you to lose all data on it. So if you do
care about your data, better err on the side of caution.
Even if you can see that your PCB is damaged, there might still be internal damage.
Moreover, as mentioned above, replacing the circuit board yourself can damage your drive
further, which reduces your chances of recovering your data. Now that you have been warned
extensively, here is a video that explains how to swap the PCB.
Note that many websites now sell PCBs and provide guides to find exactly the right circuit
board for your drive. You can easily find them on Google. So if you really cant or dont want
to afford professional help and are certain that (only) the PCB is damaged, those resources
might save you a lot of money and your data if youre lucky. Or not.
Well, I didnt dare to melt my drive, but my suspicion was that the head was stuck. So I did
shake it, but to no avail. Since I could follow the reasoning, I also wrapped my drive in an
airtight Ziploc back and stuck it in the freezer overnight. The idea is that the low temperatures
cause metals to shrink and contract. So if the head was stuck, the cold might get it unstuck. In
practice, that didnt work either. And I probably caused condensation to settle on the hard
drive platter, which could have caused a lot more damage. I eventually gave up and stored the
drive for a future in which I was hoping to be able to afford professional data recovery.
professional technicians and tools, be able to open your hard drive in clean rooms or under
dust free conditions, follow industry standards, and have solid credentials, as well as excellent
recommendations. After all, you will trust them with your private data.
Kroll Ontrack, one of the more reputable companies in the market, has an extensive and welldesigned compendium of consumer myths in regards to data recovery, that will help you pick
the right candidate. We have also had a discussion on Answers, where several data recovery
companies were recommended.
Before you pick a company, be sure you understand the conditions! Most charge just for
looking at the drive and making a recommendation. They will charge extra for actually
attempting to recover the data. Some will charge a full recovery fee, even if they failed to
recover the data.
Conclusion
Diagnosing and fixing a broken hard drive is serious business. Do take it seriously, but also
try to exclude some of the more simple to fix culprits before you fork out hundreds of dollars
to a so-called specialist. The more informed you are, the better. How far you go to diagnose
and fix your hard drive will depend on how important the data is for you.
You probably wonder what happened with my hard drive. Well, one fine day, when I was
dissolving my apartment, I decided to give it one last chance and then let go of it. More than
two years after I had tried everything I dared to get it to work, again and again for weeks, I
just plugged it in and it simply worked. I recovered all my data and the drive is working until
this day, almost six years after it failed initially. Call me lucky!
Have you ever experienced such a miracle? What helped you revive a hard drive in the past?
And how did you recover the data?
Image credit: Hard Drive PCB via Shutterstock, Frozen Hard Drive via Shutterstock, Dead
HDD via Flickr
Raising the dead: Can a regular person repair a damaged hard drive?
http://www.extremetech.com/computing/133294-raising-the-dead-can-a-regular-personrepair-a-damaged-hard-drive
The drive controller model number and PCB codes are outlined in red.
Understand this: Simply replacing the PCB almost certainly wont fix a dead drive. If it does,
youve gotten lucky. Each drive ROM contains parameters and data unique to that particular
device if the parameters for your dead drive are different from those contained on the
donor PCB, it wont function.
In my case, I opted for just a PCB. In retrospect, a full drive might have been the better
option, but the purchase only set me back $22 and ~14 days while my part took the slowboat
from China. Swapping out the PCB eliminated the 12 beeps, but accomplished nothing else.
Beep-less, my drive sat mute spinning, but unrecognized in BIOS.
Your options at this point depend on what sort of HDD you have. Some hard drives have an
externally mounted ROM/NVRAM chip that can be removed and soldered on to a new PCB.
Other drives, like mine, incorporate the ROM into the controller. The only way to find out is
to go digging for information online, and youve got to apply a strong sort filter to estimate
the value of what youll find. A number of dubious websites advertise a PC3000 PCI card,
for example, but this is almost always a Chinese clone of the original product, and is far too
old to handle modern drives in any case. The real PC3000 UDMA test kit runs over $4000
far more than the typical cost of a data recovery.
After my simple PCB swap didnt work, I decided to try to repair the burned contacts on the
original board. Here, your options are to either buy a conductive ink pen or to use something a
bit more humble. I took the humble option, trotted over to an auto parts store, and picked up a
rear window defroster repair kit. I taped off the damaged contact, applied the conductive ink,
gave it 12 hours of drying time, fired up the drive
My repaired PCB. The burned contact is at the far lower right of the group
And nothing had changed. The drive still spun up, emitted twelve beeps, and spun back down.
That was my second major disappointment and it leads directly to the next step
Next page: Resist the urge to do something stupid
http://www.extremetech.com/computing/133294-raising-the-dead-can-a-regular-personrepair-a-damaged-hard-drive/2
This is what happens when you take a drive out of a freezer whether you bagged it or not
Leaving the drive in the bag until its returned to ambient air temperature might prevent
condensation from forming on the platters or heads, but the point of the freezer trick is to run
the drive at a lower temperature.
Every repair attempt you make should be balanced against the chance of doing additional
damage. To that end, never open the enclosure. If putting your hard drive in the freezer is a
bad idea, opening it is infinitely worse. You are not qualified to adjust the alignment of heads
or platters that normally spin at 75 mph and are aligned to tolerances measured in
micrometers.
Step 4: Hire a professional
This is where I ended up. I talked to a number of data retrieval companies, including Datacent
and Secure Data Recovery Services. Datacent quoted me a $750 rate for drive head
replacement; Secure Data Recovery was less certain of the cause, but believed repair would
likely run between $1,200-$1,500. As of this writing, I havent decided what to do. Even after
extensive research, my objective visibility on Datacent (or any other data recovery firm) is
just about nil. If I opt for repair, Ill certainly report back on my experience, but ultimately I
have no way of knowing how difficult it will be for a properly equipped facility to recover my
files, how long it will take, or what constitutes a fair market rate.
With all of that said, heres a few tips on what to look for (and what to avoid).
No data, no fee: Avoid companies that insist on charging you for the privilege of
failing to provide a useful service.
Low-cost evaluation + return fee: Many firms offer a free diagnosis but will
charge relatively high postage to send the drive back. $25-$30 for an evaluation+postage
seems fairly reasonable, wed be cautious of companies charging $50 or more for the two
services combined.
Avoid broad estimates: No firm can completely diagnose a hard drive by remote,
but that doesnt mean they cant get an idea for whats wrong. Beware of companies that offer
estimates broad enough to buy a car with. At the very least, ask for estimates that fit the
typical cost of specific problems
Check the price of parts: The quotes we received typically included the cost of
replacement parts. Most companies also note, however, that difficult-to-find hardware may
still add additional cost. It doesnt hurt to see if you can self-source the part, particularly when
the cost of a donor drive or PCB is a very small fraction of the total recovery fee.
Step 5: Get a (better) backup solution
If you dont have a backup solution and you actually care about your data, get one. Theres no
guaranteed solution once the drive has failed and, unless you get lucky with a TVS burnout,
no easy fixes. A burned out drive is your ticket to a whole lot of website surfing, information
sifting, and one enormous headache from trying to separate My cousins uncles friends
neighbors dog knew a dude who threw his hard drive in a pool and it worked great from
real, reliable, data.
The forums and information at HDDGuru are a good place to start checking for information,
but dont be surprised if you have to check other places just to get an idea of what the problem
might be. These waters are largely uncharted, and dragons lurk in the deep.
PS. Dont do the freezer thing. Really.
Read: How ExtremeTechs authors back up, how to make your own NAS, and how to make
your own Windows Time Capsule
This HDD Low Level Format utility is free for home use. It can erase and Low-Level Format
a SATA, IDE, SAS, SCSI or SSD hard disk drive. Will also work with any USB and
FIREWIRE external drive enclosures as well as SD, MMC, MemoryStick and CompactFlash
media.
Read more...
HDD Raw Copy Tool
Home Software HDD Raw Copy Tool
First version of HDD Raw Copy Rool v1.01 is out.
This HDD Raw Copy tool can make an exact duplicate of a SATA, IDE, SAS, SCSI or SSD
hard disk drive. Will also work with any USB and FIREWIRE external drive enclosures as
well as SD, MMC, MemoryStick and CompactFlash media. The tool is free for home use.
Read more...
HDD LLF Low Level Format Tool
Home Software HDD LLF Low Level Format Tool
New version of HDD LLF Low Level Format Tool 4.01 is out. Added support for Windows
Vista and Windows 7 (both 32 and 64 bit). Added full support for AHCI devices. Speed of
formatting has been singnificantly increased.
This HDD Low Level Format utility is free for home use. It can erase and Low-Level Format
a SATA, IDE, SAS, SCSI or SSD hard disk drive. Will also work with any USB and
FIREWIRE external drive enclosures as well as SD, MMC, MemoryStick and CompactFlash
media.
Read more...
HDDScan
Home Software HDDScan
New version of HDDSCAN is out. There is no changelog provided by the author, but it
appears that the entire program has been rewritten from scratch. The program now has a new
refreshed look :)
HDDScan is a freeware program for low-level HDD diagnostics, it supports IDE/SATA/SCSI
hard disk drives, RAID arrays, external USB/Firewire hard disks, flash cards.
The program can scan the surface, view SMART attributes, adjust AAM, APM (Power
Management), etc.
Read more...
HDDScan
Home Software HDDScan
New version of HDDSCAN is out. Added SMART support and IDE Features control for some
USB/FireWire hard drives. SMART attributes names are updated. Some bugs were fixed as
well.
HDDScan is a freeware program for low-level HDD diagnostics, it supports IDE/SATA/SCSI
hard disk drives, RAID arrays, external USB/Firewire hard disks, flash cards.
The program can scan the surface, view SMART attributes, adjust AAM, APM (Power
Management), etc.
Read more...
HDDScan
Home Software HDDScan
New version of HDDSCAN is out. There are a lot of improvements in the version 2.7. Now it
is possible to pause the scanning, view defect lists and start/stop spindle on SCSI drives,
control AAM, APM, SMART by using command line parameters. Also the possibility to send
e-mails has been implemented. Some little issues have been fixed.
HDDScan is a freeware program for low-level HDD diagnostics, it supports IDE/SATA/SCSI
hard disk drives, RAID arrays, external USB/Firewire hard disks, flash cards.
The program can scan the surface, view SMART attributes, adjust AAM, APM (Power
Management), etc.
Read more...
Recover your hard drive: it's easier and cheaper than you think
PAGE 1 OF 2:
REPAIR A DEAD HARD DRIVE: WHERE TO START
When a hard drive goes bad, the first thing you'll probably do is have a good old curse at the
platter gods for picking on you. You then might decide to have a bit of a panic when you
realise that you didn't back up your files.
Shortly after sweating out a few pounds, you'll probably have a go at fixing it. Well, it's worth
a shot after all. But chances are, unless you know exactly what the problem is and have the
skills necessary to fix it, you're pretty much up poop alley.
If you're lucky and the disk head or motor hasn't been damaged, the problem could lie in the
controller board or printed circuit board (PCB). Often, when there's a power surge or the drive
overheats, it can damage the board. If this happens, then you can quite easily replace the PCB
with one that is working and bring your hard drive back to life.
A common sign that a PCB has been in the wars is a scorch mark, but sometimes there are no
visual cues to give the game away.
If you were feeling plucky, you could just go to a data specialist and get a man in a white coat
in a lab to carefully take your entire hard drive apart and put it all back together, in the hope
of rescuing your drive, but you'll be looking at a bill for at least 1,000. Unless you really,
really need the files on that drive, you'll avoid this route and go down the PCB road first.
Back to life
Does it really work? Well, we tried it on a drive that had suddenly stopped working one day.
There were no horrible clicking sounds, it simply wouldn't power on the thing was lifeless.
So, we replaced the PCB with an identical working one and managed to get it working again.
This wasn't after trying it on many different drives this was the first one we'd worked on, so
it wasn't a fluke.
It's worth mentioning that if this works for you, and there's a pretty good chance that it will,
once it's up and running again, don't get lazy and put it back in your PC. If it failed once,
there's a probability that it will fail again. Our advice is to transfer all your sacred files to
another drive and then bin it or pop it in the trophy cabinet.
http://www.techradar.com/news/computing-components/storage/how-to-repair-a-dead-harddrive-1037695/2
PAGE 2 OF 2:
STEP-BY-STEP: FIX YOUR HARD DRIVE
old hard drive, making sure you line it up with the original screw holes. Take the screws from
your zip-lock bag and screw the PCB down, ensuring each screw is reasonably tight.
Step 1. Launch EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard and select the file types you want to recover. Then
click "Next" button to move to the next step.
Step 2. Select the disk where you lost your data and click "Scan" button, the software will quickly
scan the selected disk to find all your target files. If you lost your partition, select "Lost Disk
Drives" and "Scan" to continue the recovery process.
Step 3. After scan, you can preview all the listed recoverable files one by one and select out those
you want. Then, click "Recover" button to get them back once. Here you should save all the
recovered files on another disk to avoid data overwriting.
Win
Mac
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