Build the Economy Champ:
3-WHEEL SUBURBAN
RUNABOUT
Fig. 1. The photo o! the Incomplete Run-
about above shows Its Inner structure.
It'll go 30 mph getting 90 miles/gallon.
• This small, easily-built runabout
looked good when it was first intro-
duced in SCIENCE & MECHANICS back
in 1961, when gasoline sold for about
two bits a gallon. Today, with the cost
of the fuel about $1.30 a gallon and no
end in sight to its spiralling price, the
car represents an idea whose time has
come.
Fuel economy? With its 3.5 - HP
Clinton engine, the runabout will reach
a respectable 30 miles per hour, and
at this speed use less than 1.5 quarts
of gas for each hour run, which repre-
sents about 90 miles to the gallon.
This is a one-person vehicle you can
use for trips to the commuter train
station, or your wife can use it for her
shopping trips. You sit in a comfortably
padded seat that is suspended on 44
shock-absorbing rubbers that isolate
you from road bumps and vibration.
Steering is controlled by a lever, and
start and speed is controlled by a
motorcycle handle bar throttle grip on
the steering lever. Brake is controlled
by a motorcycle hand brake lever. None
of the driving controls are operated by
the feet. If it takes you longer than
three minutes to leam how to drive it,
it's because you are so enthusiastic to
get going you haven't had time to pay
attention to what's happening.
Even with all parts purchased new,
this runabout should cost less than
$700, including the weatherproof cab.
Check the license requirements in your
area before driving on public streets;
some states require lights, hom, fen-
ders and the like.
The basis of the car is the Clinton
engine, a ball-bearing, horizontal shaft
model that is an improvement on the
one used in the 1961 car. It develops
its 3.5 rated horsepower at 3,600 RPM.
A centrifugal clutch connects the en-
gine to the single drive wheel via a
jack shaft, with chain drive. All the
parts you need for the drive system,
includ'ng the wheels, can be obtained
through major automotive supply
houses, small engine shops, motorcycle
shops, and hardware stores that cater
to industrial and fanning needs. The
best bet is to show your supplier these
plans so that he can provide.you with
the correct components. Note that you
may have to change bolt hole locations
for mounting some of the components
such as the pillow block assembly.
The steel material needed can be
purchased from a steel supplier like
Ryerson, which has outlets located
throughout the country. Cost of the
material itself, based on per-foot and
per-pound prices, should be less than
$60. See if the supplier has random
pieces in stock that are somewhat
longer than what you need; this will
be cheaper than paying $20 for each
piece that must be cut from standard
stock. You could wind up paying as
much as about $160 in cutting charges.

Frame Construction. Cut the front
axle to length as in Fig. 4. Mark the
10* end cuts with a protractor or bevel
square and use a new blade in your
hacksaw so the cut will not run off to
either side. This is important because
accuracy of the 10* king-pin inclination
of the steering assembly depends upon
these cuts. After cutting, check with a
square and file ends, if needed, to
make them square with the axle sides
and at 10* with top or bottom sur-
faces of the axle.
Cut the two frame rails (Fig. 4) to
size in the same manner. The 6* angle
cuts on the ends control the caster
angle of the steering assembly. When
drilling the 5/8 -in. holes through frame
rails for the rear axle' align ends of the
rails and damp one on top of the other
so you can drill both holes at the same
time. You will then be certain that the
rear axle will parallel the front axle
when assembled. If you use a home;
workshop size drill press to bore the
holes, start with a small drill (about
1/4-in.) and gradually work up to the
5/8-in. size. (5/8-in. drills with 1/2-in.
shanks are available.)
Unless you have your own arc-weld-
ing equipment, you are probably going
to have your runabout frame welded at
a local weld shop. It would be a good
idea to cut and fit all frame parts
needed to have welding done at one
time. It will be cheaper this way.
Going back to the front axle, you
will next make the spindle yokes (Fig.
4). Shape these from 1/4 x 1-1/4-in. steel
bar stock by heating and bending it
around a forming block and then drill-
ing the 3/4-in. spindle holes. A 3-in.
length of scrap steel about 1 in. square
with 1/4-in. radius round corners ground
on each end could be used for a form-
ing block. However, since this is quite
a job in any home workshop, we have
located a source of supply where the
yokes may be purchased, bent and
drilled. In either case, weld the yokes
to the ends of the axle as in Fig. 4A.
Now place the 6* cut ends of the
frame rails against the back side of the
axle and square with it as in Figs. 2
and 6. Weld the rails to the axle. A
wooden block cut exacdy 8-in. long and
clamped between the rails will hold
them in position. Be sure the rails are
4 in. on each side of the axle center
and that the bottom of the axle tilts 6*
forward as in Fig. 6. Locate and clamp
the seat support to the frame rails and
weld in place. This completes the basic
frame.
 Engine and Jack Assembly. This
assembly is located directly above the
rear drive wheel and in back of the
seat as m Fig. 2 and 6. First cut the
required number of each of the four
support parts as detailed in Fig. 4.
Then locate and mark position of the
four support uprights, on the frame
rails. Measure these from the center of
the 5/8-in. rear axle holes in the rails as
in Fig. 2C, Assemble the support parts
with small clamps, position assembly
on the rails and tack-weld in place. Re-
move clamps as you tack-weld. After
checking location and squareness, com-
plete the welding.
Location of 11/32-in. drilled holes in
the engine and jack shaft assembly
(Fig. 2B) is correct for the engine and
pillow-block bearings called for in the
materials list If you should use any
other engine or bearings, relocate these
holes as necessary.,
Rear Wheel and Drive. The specified :
rear wheel comes complete with 60-
tooth sprocket and brake assembly.
Only additional parts needed are the i
rear axle and two axle spacers to posi-
tion and hold the center of the rear
wheel tire midway between the rails
(Fig. 3).
Make the axle from 5/8-in. steel shaft-
 Fig. 3, left. Drive wheel. Note: 18-tooth sprocket between bearings.
ing and have 5/8-in.-18 threads cut on
each end as in Fig. 4. Make spacers
ham 5/8-in. I.D. x 3/4-in. O.D. steel
tubing as in Fig. 4. Cut slightly over-
size so you can file and fit them to pre-
vent side-to-side wheel movement
Since these spacers bear against inner
race of the wheel bearings, do not fit
too snugly. A small amount of take-up
can be achieved by tightening the axle
nuts. When the wheel spins freely,
without end play, drill rear axle ends
for cotter pins to lock the slotted nuts
in place. Weld hub of brake shoe to
frame rail.
Now, bolt pillow-block bearings in
place on the support. Install the 3/4-in.
jack shaft and the 12- and 18-tooth
sprockets as in Fig. 3. Note that the
18-tooth sprocket goes between the
bearings. Bolt engine in place and in-
stall the centrifugal clutch on the en-
gine shaft
With 12-in. metal scale, or other
straightedge, held flat against the side
of the 60-tooth sprocket, align the 12-
tooth sprocket on the jack shaft with
it. Lock jack shaft in place with set-
screws on the pillow-block bearings.
Also lock 12-tooth sprocket to the shaft.
Similarly, one up and lock engine
clutch sprocket with 18-tooth sprocket
on jack shaft. Now, with a scratch-awl
or 3-comered file, mark sprocket and Fig. 5. The Runabout makes a great week-
bearing locations on the jack shaft so end fun vehicle or an economical commuter
parts can be reassembled exactly as car. Added cab protects from weather.
they now are. Then remove the pillow-
block bolts and take the jack shaft as- the sprockets in place. Since this re-
sembly off the support quires you to have a local machine shop
Of two ways to fasten sprockets to cut the keyways (unless you have a
the jack shaft, the best is to cut 3/32 lathe with milling attachment), you
x 3/16-in. keyways in the shaft and key may choose simply to weld the sprock-
3-WHEEL SUBURBAN RUNABOUT

ets to the jack shaft as we did. A dis-

advantage in doing this is that you lock
a pillow-block bearing between the
sprockets. If at some later date you wish
to replace one of the sprockets or
change the speed ratio, it would be
difficult to remove unless you put the
shaft in a lathe and turned off the
welds. Do not try to lock sprockets to
the shaft with set-screws alone—the load
on the sprocket is far too great.
When you have the sprockets se-
curely fastened to the jack shaft, reas-
semble it and again bolt the bearings
to the support. Install the #35 chain
with connector links as on a bicycle.
First adjust chain tension from rear
wheel to jack shaft by placing washers
under the engine. Chains will stretch
slightly after you have used your run-
about, and a few washers may have to
be added to take up the slack.
Front Wheel Spindles. Grind a 10*
angle flat on the heads of two 5/8 x 4-in.
hex-head bolts as in Fig. 4, and weld
to the spindle tubes. Make the tie-rod
arms, and also weld them to the spindle
tubes. Note that arms are placed 60*
from the 5/8-in. spindles. Make sure the
5/8-in. king pins will go through the
tubes. You may have to run a 5/8-in.
drill through to clean up the tubes if
distorted by welding. Drill the 3/16-in.
holes through one side of tubes only.
When assembling spindles to the
yokes, first tap the bronze bushings
in the 3/4-in. yoke holes so that the
flanges face each other inside the yokes.
Saw off and file the projecting 3/4 -in.
dia. parts of the bushings flush with
top and bottom of yokes. Then fit
spindle tubes between flanges of the
bushings and install king pins as in Fig.
2A. Note that steering king pin goes on ,
left side of the axle. (Left when sitting
in the runabout).
Spindle tubes should fit snugly be-
tween bushings. You can file tube ends
with a fine-cut mill file and polish with
abrasive paper for a smooth finish, par- ;
ticularly where tubes contact the yoke
bushings.
With king pins in place, spot drill
them through the 3/16-in. tube holes.
Remove king pins and spindles from
axle yokes and drill the 3/16-in. holes
through both pins and tube. You can
now permanently assemble spindles
and king pins to the axle yokes and
drive 3/16 x 1-in. Roll-pins through the
holes.
Fasten front wheels on the spindles
with slotted nuts and cotter pins as
you did the rear wheel. Make the tie
rod as in Fig. 4. Install it with the
 PLYWOOD SKIN
PROMT POST
SEC.B-B 1x1X46^*
LEFT SIDE
ROOF FRAMING
MEMBERS-' FRONT
CHOSSBWCES
LOWER BOX
MEMBER"

Fig. 8, above, is the 3.5 h.p. Clinton en-

gine, its suggested retail is $154.90.
Fig. 10, right, shows how to assemble
the basic shell. Follow text carefully.

ball joints to tie-rod levers on the

spindles as in Fig. 2A. Adjust the tie
rod so that the toe-in of the front
wheels is 1/16-in. Measure the toe-in
from the centers of the front wheel
tires as in Fig. 2B.
Steering Lever. Cut two pieces of
7/8-in. steel tubing as in Fig. 4 and
weld together at right angles. Slide the
motorcycle throttle and;brake controls
on the steering lever as in Fig. 2. Weld
3-WHEEL SUBURBAN RUNABOUT
the lever to projecting end of the steer-
ing king pin. Make a sleeve from a 3-
in. length of 74-in. tubing as in Fig. 4
to act as a spacer between the 5/8-in.
steering king pin and the 34-in. I.D.
of the 7/8-in. steering lever tube.
Connect cables from brake lever to
rear wheel brake and from throttle
control to carburetor throttle lever.
The Seat. The specially designed seat
for this runabout gives a comfortable
ride. Since the frame has no spring sus-
pension system as in an automobile,
suspension is built into the seat. Don't
attempt to install an ordinary padded
seat.
To make the seat, draw full-size pat-
terns of the bent tube parts on card-
board following the squared pattern in
Fig. 7. Use an electrician's conduit
bender to bend the tubes. Place part
3-WHEEL SUBURBAN RUNABOUT
you are bending over the full-size draw-
ing occasionally to check progress. Be
sure to use a longer length of tubing
than needed for each part as clamps
on the bender must grip die tube be-
yond the bend.
After bends are made, flatten lower
ends of the bottom rails and bolt them
to the front axle. Braze a 3/8-in. hex
nut to lower ends of the side rails. Bolt
these to the seat support bar on the
frame. Then mark, cut and file, bottom
rail ends that join the side rails as in
Fig. 7. Tack-weld rails together and
then fit and tack-weld the top and bot-
torn rails in place. With all seat mem-
bers securely tack-welded, remove from
frame and braze the seat tubing joints.
Carefully lay out and drill the forty-
four 5/32-in. holes as to Fig. 7A.
The seat pad is a sewing machine
job. Unless you're familiar with its oper-
ation, you had best let your wife handle
the work—or try yoiir local awning
shop. Complete details for making it
are shown in Fig. 7B. Although we
used blue denim for the pad, you can
substitute with a plasticized, water-
proof material of the type used for
outdoor furniture..
In the meantime, make the 4 hem
wires and the seat suspension hooks as
in Fig. 7. Make suspension "springs"
from 1-1/4-in. wide loops cut from a
bicycle inner tube. Coat outer side of
each loop with rubber cement, fold it
twice on itself, then place the cemented
loop on a bottle or mailing tube until
dry. If you're a 200-pounder, make
loops at least 1-1/2-in. wide. You could
also make loops from 1/4-in. dia. air-
craft shock cord wired as in Fig. 7.
Slide the hem wires into the seat
pad hems. Slit hems open at each kink
in the wire, then install hooks and rub-
ber "springs" as in Fig. 7C.
Except for gas in the engine, your
runabout is ready for that trial run.
Building, the Cab. The enclosure for
the bantam three-wheel runabout in
Fig. 9 has been redesigned and im-
proved from the prototype shown in ;
Fig. 2 to s'mplify construction by elimi-
nating difficult compound bends.
Overall dimensions of this all-weather
cab are but 62 in. long and 31 in. wide.
Framework cut from 3/4-in. lumber is
built up from a 1/2-in. plywood floor,
which is bolted to the chassis on seven
rubber mounts. | Fasten brackets with #6 x 1-in. fh
Prepare floorboard first, by cutting
it out of a 3 x 5-ft. piece of 1/2-in. ply-
wood to dimensions in Fig. 9A.
3-WHEEL SUBURBAN RUNABOUT
Slightly bevel the lower edge to pro-
vide a better fit for the plywood skin.
Drill the seven holes indicated for the
tie-bolts; also the two larger holes for
chair legs to pass through. Make the
rectangular cutouts for the engine
block and footrest. Then shape the two
wheel-well inlets, beveling both front
and rear sides.
Cut the footrest panel and bevel
longest edge as in Fig. 9B to fit on top
of the floorboard. Join with screws and
strengthen joint with two 3-in. metal
corner brackets. Bend brackets open to
the angle as in Fig. 9C and fasten
with 5/8-in. screws.
To install the floorboard, remove en-
gine from its chassis mounting brackets
and the seat from the frame. Slip board
over the chassis footrest to lay flat on
the frame. Mark and drill seven 11/32-in.
mounting holes dirough the frame
members to correspond widi the 3/8-in.
holes in the floorboard.
Now cut 28 washers out of 1/8-in.
thick rubber sheet, each shaped 3/8-in.
I.D. and about 1 in. O.D. Arrange in
groups of four at each hole between
floor and frame. Slip a 3/8 x 2-1/2-in.
bolt through each hole to fasten floor to
chassis, then tighten nuts until rubber
washers are compressed to 1/4-in. thick-
ness. This should reduce the amount of
chassis vibration passed on to thie body.
Replace engine.
Building the Basic Shell. Virtually
framing members are 2 in. wide. Rip
straight pieces from 3/4 x 5-5/8-in. pine.
Lay out and cut out the shaped pieces
on a band or jigsaw.
Cut the front posts and three front
rails as in Fig. 10. Fasten crosspieces
at center and each end of the posts,
using #8 x 2-1/4-in. fh screws and
countersinking heads. Complete front
frame by beveling front of top edge
45 deg. as in Fig. 10.
Cut the front and back framing
members and shaped sides of roof (Fig.
10F). Toenail in position, then rein-
force roof frame with 3-in. metal comer
brackets shaped to fit inside corners.
screws. Cut the large diagonal spars as
in Fig. 10, shaping ends to fit die angle
at floor and roof—72 deg. from the hori-
zontal.
Now you can begin framing up from
the floor. When joining parts, first nail
together to permit adjustments; then as
frame takes shape, fasten firmly with
#8 x 1-3/4-in. fh screws. Countersink
all screws and use longer ones where
fastening into board ends.
Attach cleats to the floorboard ad-
joining side notches as in Fig. 10, lo-
cate the large diagonal spars in posi-
tion and fasten to cleats. Attach bottom
rail of the front frame to edge of foot
rest panel (B-B in Fig. 10A), then
fasten beveled edge of top rail to roof
frame as in left side detail of Fig. 10.
Next make up and mount the wing
supports on each side of the rear wheel
as in Fig. 10B. You can cut these to
shape from the plywood floorboard
cutouts. Glue small members together
and fasten with screws. From this point
on, check all dimensions at assembly
before cutting.
Cut a 3/4 x 1 x 17-in. pine cleat to
reinforce joint between footrest panel
and front frame (B-B in Fig. 10). Lay
out lower horizontal spars on 3/4 x 5-5/8-
in. stock and cut to shape as in Fig.
10C. Locate in place to mark notches
for front crossbrace and large diagonal
spar. Cut notches and fasten a hori-
zontal spar to each end of the front
panel-footboard joint and to a diagonal
spar at the notch. Shape and install
wheel well framing.
Upper horizontal members form the
bottom of the side window frames and
are notched. Lay out and shape as in
Fig. 10A, notching to fit over the long
diagonal spars. On right side only, cut
this spar off at front of the diagonal
spar and save the front piece for door
construction. Fasten remaining portion
in place, also the entire left side mem-
ber.
Now you can fit and install the two
pairs of vertical members for the rear
box as in Fig. 10D. Note that the front
pair "hang" from the upper horizontal
member right in back of the notched
area for the long diagonal spar and
join the floorboard. There should be
just enough room in front of these ver-
ticals and behind the lower horizontal
spars to slide a 14-in. plywood panel
in position as in Fig. 10E. Line engine
side of the panel with #16-gage sheet
metal as a safety precaution.
 Drop verticals from each end of the by installing between 3/8-in. quarter
back member in the roof frame to in- round strips, as shown in B of Fig. 11.
side edges of upper horizontal mem- On front framing member adjoining the
bers as in Fig. 10. They form the rear door, substitute 3/8-in. square strip for
window. Complete the basic shell by inside quarter round, as in B of Fig. 11,
installing the two diagonal cross braces to facilitate doorstop installation.
which support the left side front post. You can obtain the semi-rigid Mylar
Installing the Door. Make a simple in 48-in. width weather-proofed one
frame similar to the door frame as in side. Install in side and rear openings
Fig. 11. Note the triangular block in as in detail A-A of Fig. 11, following
place of a cross brace below the open- these steps: nail outside quarter round
ing. Flair off portions of block or frame on all sides of an opening, flush with
as needed to fit the curving plywood. door edge. From inside the cab, hold
Trim a 36-in. piano hinge to 34 in. up a piece of the plastic large enough
Attach it with #8 x 1-in. fh screws to to cover opening with something to
rear edge of door and rear member of spare. Attach an end of the plastic to
ctoor frame so door will swing out as in the top quarter round with 1/4-in. tacks,
detail A-A, Fig. 11. then curve plastic to shape of panel in
A common night latch will keep die which the opening is located. In this
door closed tight—and locked when de- position, carefully trim material to fit
sired. Get the small size with a rim opening. Fasten all around, spacing
lock case of about 2-1/4 x 3 in. and tacks every 2 in. Nail quarter round
mount it on the triangular block, as in against inside edges, hiding the tack
Fig. 11C. Be sure the latch is equipped heads.
with a cylinder which will fit a 7/8-in. Now you can weatherstrip the door.
thick door. Install latch and strike plate Close it and, with latch engaged, pencil
according to directions furnished, using a line all around the door frame against
a piece of 1/8-in. scrap temporarily to inside edge of the door. Cut lengths of
serve in place of the plywood skin on 1/2 x 1/2-in. strip to line inside edge of
the outside. the door frame and install them 1/16-in.
Attaching the Skin. To cover the in back of the line. Use #7 x l-1/4-in.
body, we used Vi-in. fir plywood, which fh screws to fasten all pieces except
will bend to conform to framing curves strip placed against the narrow front
and bevels. If your sheet is small post and square window stop. Nail that
enough to handle, place it over a sec- strip in place as shown in B of Fig. 11.
tion to be covered and trim on the Space screws about 6-in. apart and
frame. You can also prepare a corru- countersink all heads.
gated cardboard template for each sur- For a tight seal, glue 1/8 x 1/2-in. |
face, trace the pattern on a plywood sponge rubber weatherstrip on the out- '
sheet and cut it on your work table. side face of the 1/2-in. square strip.
Do one piece at a time, so that future Drill 1-1/8-in. holes through wheel
cuts will allow for side edges of the • well frame d'rectly over the seat sup-
plywood. Start with side panels and ports and replace seat For easy access :
strips for window trim, then progress to the engine, leave rear box open. You
to front and back surfaces, and finally may need to cut a hole in the rear deck
the roof. To attach the plywood, use to get at the gas tank. '.
glue and 3/4-in. bolt nails, which are The body can be finished with a
annular-threaded to hold like screws. sealer and exterior paint, or stained
If you prefer, use #5 x 3/4-in. fh or rh and varnished.
screws. Trim off excess plywood around Caution: Before driving your run-
wheel wells, rounding off inside comers about cab on public streets, be sure to
for better appearance. check your area's requirements for
Window Treatment. We used 1/8-in. licensing and equipment, such as lights,
Plexiglas in front and Mylar transparent horn, windshield wiper, etc. Single or
plastic film, thin but very tough, on the twin sealed beams can be centered on
sides and rear. the front panel and a taillight installed
Because the Plexiglas is tricky to cut on rear framing. There's enough space
without cracking, buy it cut to size, in the engine compartment for a small
18-7/8 x 20-1/8 in. Center in front opening 12-volt battery. •