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CBI Product Factsheet:

Mass Market Sports Footwear


in Europe

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Product Factsheet Cloves in Germany | 1

Introduction
This product fact sheet provides information for developing
country exporters planning to enter or develop their
European shoe business. In this report, we will focus on
mass market footwear. Europe has three main segments in
mass market footwear, each of which, of course, includes
mens, ladies and childrens footwear:
1.
2.
3

Mass-market shoe prototypes: the two models on the


left-hand side are sports shoes, whereas the two righthand side models are casual shoes an illustration of the
similarities and crossovers between the main segments
in this market.

Sports footwear
Casual footwear
Fashion footwear

In this document we will focus mainly mass market sports


footwear. Many of the characteristics of this segment also
apply to the other two segments. In Text Boxes 1 and 2 at
the end of this report, we will look briefly at the most
important segment-specific features of casual and fashion
footwear in the mass market.

Mass market sports footwear


Product definition
Contrary to what the name of this mass market segment suggests, sports footwear is generally not intended to be worn
during sports or athletic activities. Actual sports shoes have far higher technical requirements than the shoes produced in
this price-aggressive segment. Mass market sports shoes are inspired by sports footwear, but designed for day-to-day
wearing.
This segment can be divided into several categories. In the table below, we have presented these categories, along with a
few key characteristics.
Sports footwear category
Running shoes
Basketball shoes
Tennis shoes
Indoor sports shoes
Outdoor shoes

Key characteristics
Light-weight outsole made of rubber, ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) or PU; low-cut upper
High-cut upper; rubber, TPR or PU outsole
Low-cut upper; TPR, rubber or PU outsole
Low-cut, synthetic upper; rubber, TPR or PU outsole
Functional, modest colouring; outsole of TPR or rubber, sometimes with a non-skid layer; lowor high-cut upper

HS Codes
64021210 (ski-boots and cross-country ski footwear with outer soles and uppers of rubber or plastics)
32301200 (snow-ski footwear)
64021290 (snowboard boots with outer soles and uppers of rubber or plastics)
64021900 (sports footwear, outer soles of rubber or plastic)
15202310 (sports footwear, outer soles & uppers of rubber or plastic)
64031200 (ski-boots, cross-country ski footwear and snowboard boots with outer soles of rubber, plastic or composition
leather and uppers of leather)
64031900 (sports footwear, outer soles of rubber, plastics, leather or composition leather & uppers of leather)
15202350 (sports footwear with rubber, plastic or leather outer soles & leather uppers)
64041990 (footwear with outer soles of rubber or plastics and uppers of textile materials)
64042090 (footwear with outer soles of leather or composition leather and uppers of textile materials)
15201445 (rubber, plastic or leather outer soles)
64052010 (footwear with uppers of textile materials an outer soles of wood or cork)
15201446 (outer soles of other materials)
64052099 (footwear with uppers of textile materials an outer soles of other materials)
64041100 (sports footwear, incl. tennis, basketball, gym, training shoes & the like, outer soles of rubber or plastics &
uppers of textile materials)
15202100 (sports footwear with rubber or plastic outer soles & textile uppers)

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Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 2

Mass market sports footwear in pictures

Mass market running


shoe

Mass market
basketball shoe

Mass market indoor


shoe

Mass market tennis


shoe

High-cut outdoor
shoe

Product specifications
Outsoles and uppers
In all three of the main segments in mass market footwear, shoe production is based on the outsoles. The distinguishing
factors are the outsoles profile, its quality and the manner in which it is attached to the upper.

Techniques
Several techniques are used for fastening the outsole to the upper:
1. Cementing
Cementing tends to be used most. In cementing, the outsole is pre-produced in a mould and then glued to the upper.
2. Injection
Injection is a cheap, fast way of attaching an outsole to an upper, but the resulting quality is poor. It involves injecting
material into a mould under pressure and immediately attaching it to the upper.

Materials
The most commonly used materials in this low-price market are synthetics based in polyurethane (PU) with foam or with a
woven backing. In some products, small amounts of leather are used in the upper. Shoe linings consist mainly of a
polyester mesh and the insock is usually also synthetic.
Outsoles are most commonly made of the following materials:

Rubber;
Thermoplastic elastomer (TPR);
Phylon (although this material is usually too costly for this segment);
PU;
Other materials, such as synthetic suede, leather or cotton (only occasionally).

Labelling
All footwear sold in Europe is required to have labels offering information on the main materials used for the three main
parts of the shoe: the upper, the lining and insock, and the outer sole. Each label must state in words or pictograms
prescribed by the EU Directive on this topic whether the material is leather, coated leather, textile or other.
Made-in labelling
The European Commission is working on mandatory origin labelling (the made-in label) in Europe for all non-food
products, including footwear. Until now, made-in labelling is optional, but some buyers already require made-in labelling

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Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 3

from their suppliers. Others will be seeking to experiment with it in the coming years in anticipation of EU legislation. Read
more on footwear labelling requirements in the EU Export Helpdesk.

Colours and design


The colours in mass market sports footwear usually involve
various contrasts against a white background. These
contrasts are used on the overlay as well as on the logo and
the outsole. Sports footwear is naturally presented in sporty
colour combinations, contrary to casual footwear, which
usually comes in warmer tones.

Packaging
The EU has general legislation on packaging and liability that applies to all goods marketed in the EU. Regarding footwear,
there is an ongoing trend towards the reduction packaging materials and waste. A good example of this is Pumas Clever
Little Bag, a shoebox made with a minimum amount of cardboard.

Buyer requirements
In addition to the legal requirements you will face as a developing country footwear exporter accessing the European
market, you will also face specific buyer requirements. For a full overview of these requirements, please consult CBIs
Market Information database at http://www.cbi.eu/market-information/footwear/buyer-requirements.

Product safety
The European Commissions General Product Safety Directive (accessible via the EU Export Helpdesk) basically states that
all products marketed in the EU must be safe to use. The Directive provides an overall framework for all specific legislation
established for specific products and issues. This means that even if no specific legal requirements have been established
for your product and its uses, the General Product Safety Directive still applies. In footwear, one important scheme to be
aware of is the REACH scheme (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals). Also, it is important to note that
the use of some materials, such as PVC, in footwear is not allowed.
Tips:

In order to get an idea of possible incompliances, check the RAPEX database used by EU Member States to
exchange information on unsafe products,.
Make sure you ask your buyer about specific safety requirements he may have. Some will be content with
compliance with EU legislation, leaving you to find out for yourself what these requirements entail. Others may,
for example, provide information on which specific substances are not allowed.

Chemicals
The European Union has strict legislation on the use of chemicals in any product, including footwear. For a full overview of
EU requirements in this field, please consult CBIs Market Information database at http://www.cbi.eu/marketinformation/footwear/buyer-requirements.

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Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 4

Trade & Macro-Economic Statistics


General Macro-Economic Statistics
Germany is the largest footwear market in the EU-28, because of its large population (80.5 million). Germans consumers
accounted for footwear sales of 131 per capita in 2013. Per capita consumption in the other leading EU countries was
higher: Italy 162, the UK 157, France 156 and Spain 144 (Source: Eurostat).
Gross Domestic Product (GDP) annual growth rate in current prices, 2009-2016, based on 2014-2016 estimates
2009
France
-2.9
Germany
-5.6
Italy
-5.5
Spain
-3.8
UK
-4.3
Source: Eurostat, 2014

2010
2.0
4.1
1.7
-0.2
1.9

2011
2.1
3.6
0.6
0.1
1.6

2012
0.3
0.4
-2.3
-1.6
0.7

2013
0.3
0.1
-1.9
-1.2
1.7

2014
0.3
1.6
-0.2
1.3
2.9

2015
1.1
1.6
0.7
1.8
2.5

2016
1.4
1.5
1.4
2.5
2.2

2015
1,170
1,560
1,013
661
1,160

2016
1,202
1,607
1,042
688
1,211

Total consumer expenditure in billion (current prices), 2009-2016, based on 2014-2016 estimates
2009
France
1,060
Germany
1,335
Italy
961
Spain
611
UK
911
Source: Eurostat, 2014

2010
1,088
1,372
987
624
956

2011
1,114
1,429
1,017
635
992

2012
1,129
1,457
1,005
634
1,026

2013
1,140
1,487
990
631
1,065

2014
1,146
1,518
995
645
1,110

Sings of Renewed Growth


Economic uncertainty makes it difficult to predict the future of Europes economy in general and its footwear market in
particular. What is clear is that after a period of slight decline, the EU footwear market seems to be growing again since
2014. As EU footwear players look for ways to cut cost and innovate, new opportunities are emerging for developing
country manufacturers.
Footwear consumption in the top-12 EU countries, in million
12000
10000
8000
6000
4000
2000
0

2009
2010
2011
2012
2013

Source: Eurostat, Market Line, Euromonitor and trade estimates, 2014

The Popularity of Sports Footwear is the Main Growth Driver


Interestingly, the growing popularity of sports footwear as a substitute for more traditional footwear types is one of the
sectors main growth drivers. Sports footwear sales have benefited from the general trend towards more active and
healthier lifestyles among Europeans. Other drivers include changes in fashion and technological innovations in
comfortable footwear. In the table below, you can see how sports footwear consumption in Germany, Europes largest
footwear market, is developing.

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Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 5

Consumption of sports footwear in Germany, 2009-2013, in million


2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

Performance footwear
846
Outdoor footwear
593
Sports inspired footwear
589
Total sports footwear
2,028
Source: Euromonitor, 2014, partly revised)

897
632
628
2,157

884
629
627
2,140

903
646
632
2,181

925
665
634
2,224

CAGR
2009-13
2.3%
2.9%
1.9%
2.3%

Change
2012-13
2.4%
2.9%
0.3%
2.0%

Import Statistics
Between 2009 and 2013, Germany was Europes leading importer with an import share
of 19% in terms of value. During the first nine months of 2014, Germanys sports
footwear imports increased by 35% compared to the same period in 2013. Textile
uppers showed particular growth, both from outside the EU (+57%) and from other EU
countries (+26%). Germany was followed by France (14%), the UK (13%) and Italy
(12%). The Netherlands ranked 6th (8%), followed by Belgium (7%) and Spain (6%). In
the two figures below you can see, first, how sports footwear compares with other
segments in terms of imports, and, second, how Germanys footwear imports have
developed. A few import highlights:

Mass market indoor shoe

Imports are growing strongly (10% and more) in Slovakia, the Baltic states,
Poland, Romania and Sweden;
imports in Greece, Croatia, Ireland, Luxembourg, Cyprus and Malta are decreasing.

Much of the footwear sold within the EU is imported from developing countries in South-East Asia, in particular China. In
the period 2011-2013, EU imports from China showed a sharp decline. China struggled with rising wages and material
costs, while other developing countries succeeded in offering more favourable prices. The large share of imports from other
EU countries (intra-EU trade) can be attributed to re-exports (including transito).
EU imports of footwear by product groups, 2009-2013, in million
Rubber/plastic uppers
- waterproof
- sports
- indoor
- other outdoor
Total
Leather uppers
- sports
- indoor
- other outdoor
Total
Textiles uppers
- sports
- indoor
- other outdoor
Total
Parts of footwear
Total
Source: Eurostat, 2014

2009

2011

2013

CAGR 2009-13

Change 2012-13

306.7
818.7
68.9
4,767.4
5,961.7

509.2
997.6
70.2
6,259.9
7,836.9

442.6
997.3
60.7
6,375.8
7,876.4

9.6%
5.1%
-3.1%
7.5%
7.2%

4.6%
1.3%
2.2%
2.0%
2.1%

666.2
105.9
14,840.7
15,612.8

634.7
114.4
16,933.3
17,682.4

640.7
104.6
17,656.9
18,402.2

-1.0%
-0.3%
4.4%
4.2%

-6.9%
1.0%
2.9%
2.5%

1,566.2
523.7
2,779.0
4,868.9
2,732.7
29,176.1

2,041.5
641.0
4,173.9
6,856.4
3,968.2
36,343.9

2,674.4
613.4
4,855.7
8,143.5
3,677.0
38,099.1

14.3%
4.0%
15.0%
13.7%
7.7%
6.9%

13.1%
7.2%
4.7%
7.5%
11.6%
4.3%

Imports into Germany of sports footwear, 2009-2013 in 000 pairs

Rubber or plastic uppers


- Ski boots
- Snowboard boots
- Other sports footwear
Leather uppers
- Ski boots
- Other sports footwear
Textile uppers
Total
Source: Eurostat, 2014

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2009

2011

2013

CAGR
2009-13

Change
2012-13

375
51
1,417

473
49
1,960

472
48
2,034

4.4%
-5.2%
6.9%

7.3%
-16.2%
-1.6%

6
2,444
5,066
9,359

6
2,520
5,394
10,402

22
1,205
8,482
12,263

34.2%
-15.5%
15.4%
11.1%

-11.0%
-31.3%
26.9%
17.7%

Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 6

Export Statistics
Footwear exports from the EU, particularly leather uppers, have continued to rise in recent years. These exports include
so-called re-exports, i.e. imported products that are exported to other (mainly EU) countries. This explains why Europes
export figures are higher than its import figures. Re-export percentages are highest in Germany, Belgium and the
Netherlands. The pie chart below shows which EU countries are the biggest exporters. Specific data on sports footwear (re)exports are not available.
Footwear exports by EU countries in 2013, in million

Romania
4%
UK
4%

Other
12%

Italy
27%

Portugal
6%
Germany
12%

France
7%
Spain
7%

Belgium
12%

Netherlands
9%

Source: Eurostat, 2014

Production Statistics
Production of sports footwear is slowly decreasing in many European countries. One of the reasons is increased
competition from low-cost countries outside of Europe, notably developing countries. As an illustration of this trend, the
tables below shows footwear production figures for two of Europes leading markets in this sector, Germany and France.
Production of sports footwear in Germany, 2009-2013, in thousands

Rubber or plastic outer soles and


textile uppers
Other sports footwear (excl. snow
board and ski-boots)
Total
Source: Prodcom, 2014

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

CAGR
2009-13

6,112

10,261

4,686

5,417

5,384

-3.1%

24,545
30,657

30,239
40,500

32,528
37,214

32,437
37,854

28,266
33,650

3.6%
2.4%

Production of sports footwear in France, 2009-2013, in thousands

Rubber or plastic outer soles and


textile uppers
Other sports footwear (excl. snow
board and ski-boots)
c= confidential
Source: Prodcom, 2014

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

CAGR
2009-13

920

17,734

17,310

10,911

2,818

1,814

-43.4%

Trends
Cheaper footwear is outselling more expensive products
One important general trend in footwear, resulting from the economic recession, is that cheaper footwear is outperforming
more expensive footwear in terms of sales. Some higher-end brands are responding to this by penetrating the low-end
market with cheap, lower-quality products still bearing the same brand name. Consumers at the lower end of the market
are usually less fashion-conscious than those further up-market. This means brands using this strategy adopt weaker
interpretations of fashion trends in their cheap product ranges.

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Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 7

More on trends
If youre interested in an overview of these and other important trends affecting European and global footwear, please
consult CBIs Trends for Footwear on our website.

Market Channels & Segments


If you need more insight in the market channels and segments in European footwear, please consult CBIs Market
Channels & Segments for Footwear on our website. Generally speaking, low-end footwear is sold primarily in high volumes
by typical mass-market retailers, such as Deichmann and Scapino. An interesting exception are the non-footwear outlets
that offer cheap footwear, such as supermarkets, fuel stations and DIY chains.

Price
Pricing in this segment can be divided into several categories:
Price range
0 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 30
30 to 40

Type of product
Usually simple footwear with few details, sold by retailers in large crates or at the cash register. Examples:
slippers and toe slippers.
Typically sports, casual or fashion shoes made of synthetic materials.
This is the middle range in this segment.
Slightly more luxurious footwear, including cheap editions of brand footwear, casual shoes with minor details in
leather or more developed fashion footwear.

Field of Competition
If you need more insight in the competitive forces
affecting European and global footwear, please consult
CBIs Field of Competition for the Footwear Sector on our
website. As for mass market footwear, an important
competitive factor is the margin calculation used by
suppliers in this segment. While traditional footwear
retailers will use margins of at least 2.5 times higher than
cost price, some newcomers on the footwear market will
easily settle for a 1.0 margin. Primark is a typical example
of a business succeeding with this low-margin, highvolume pricing model. Supermarkets and retail chain
Action are doing the same.

Sports shoes sold in supermarkets

Useful sources
Below are some useful resources if you are interested in broadening your understanding European and global footwear:
Riva Italy: www.exporivaschuh.it
GDS Germany: www.messe-duesseldorf.com
Canton shoe fair: www.chinaexhibition.com
Guangzhou shoe fair: www.chinaexhibition.com, www.worldfootwear.com
Ispo Munich: www.ispo.com
Shoe fair Shanghai/Hongkong: www.hktdc.com
ISO 9001: www.iso.org
SGS chemical testing: www.sgs.com
Satra research & testing: www.satra.co.uk

CBI | Market Intelligence

Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 8

Text Box 1: Mass market fashion


footwear

Text box 2: Mass market casual


footwear

Most of the characteristics of mass market sports


footwear, which is the main focus of this report,
apply to mass market casual footwear and also to
mass market fashion footwear. In this text box we
will briefly discuss what distinguishes low-end
fashion footwear from the other segments in this
market.

Most of the characteristics of mass market sports


footwear, which is the main focus of this report, also
apply to mass market casual footwear. In this text
box we will briefly discuss what distinguishes casual
low-end footwear from the other segments in this
market.

Trend-sensitive
The vital difference between fashion and casual or
sports footwear on the mass market is that fashion
footwear depends heavily on distinct trends. Often,
these are trends for example colours or models
that come and go very quickly. Successful mass
market players succeed in rapidly converting this
trends into mass production.
Crossovers
Sometimes, a product that entered the market on
a trend, or a hype, moves into mainstream and
becomes a basic product. Good examples of this
includes ladies espadrilles (see photo) and, again,
Uggs.
Trendy colours
This segment tends to stand out from the rest by
using fashionable colours and decorative details.
Success often depends on the ability to introduce a
new trend cautiously, while also being able to roll
out mass volumes as soon as the trend is picked
up. The models in this segment are more varied
than those in other segments and can include
sandals, boots, sports-oriented fashion footwear,
espadrilles, vulcanised shoes and many others.

Less striking colours


Mass market casual footwear tends to be toned down
in colour, design and use of material compared to
sports footwear. In this segment, comfortability often
comes first. Leather-like materials, such as synthetic
suede or synthetic leather, are common. The soles of
shoes in this segment tend to match the upper in
colour and are less striking.
Chucks
Although originally sold in the higher-end fashion
market, the so-called chuck nowadays is a mass
market casual footwear product. Chucks consist of a
high-cut upper on a vulcanised outsole. The upper is
usually made of coloured canvas and combined with a
white outsole. More fashion-oriented chucks, with
striking colours and details, are also popular. Chucks
thus represent a crossover between sports, casual and
fashion footwear. Other sports-oriented shoes sold in
the casual segment are usually similar in model and
outsole to regular sports footwear, but with less
colourful uppers in a wider variety of materials.
Ladies versus mens
The range of ladies footwear in the casual segment is
broader than that of mens. Ladies casuals include
practical shoes in quiet colours as well as low boots
with a heel, slippers and sandals.
Crossovers
As the example of the chucks illustrates, crossovers
from one segment to another are common. There are
many other examples of products that were originally
designed as functional outdoor shoes such as
Birkenstocks, Uggs and Merell (see photos below)
but then moved into the mainstream market,
eventually ending up in the casual segment.

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Product Factsheet Mass Market Sports Footwear in Europe | 9

CBI Market Intelligence


P.O. Box 93144
2509 AC The Hague
The Netherlands
www.cbi.eu/market-information
marketintel@cbi.eu

This survey was produced for the CBI by Giovanni Beatrice and
Stephen Teeuwen with input from various (EU market) sources,
including Scapino, Pwh and Jente Hageman of New World China.
Disclaimer CBI market information tools: http://www.cbi.eu/disclaimer

February 2015

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