AChaeMenId Women Costume

Bulletin of the Asia Institute, a Non-Profit Corporation
Women's Robes: The Achaemenid Era

Author(s): BERNARD GOLDMAN
Source: Bulletin of the Asia Institute, New Series, Vol. 5 (1991), pp. 83-103
Published by: Bulletin of the Asia Institute, a Non-Profit Corporation
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/24048288
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Women's
Robes:
The
BERNARD
Two
women
One
in
The
GOLDMAN
as
an
Persian
other
Era
Achaemenid
instructed
both
Doric,
came,
apparition
robes
in
well,
dressed.
splendor
Sisters they, who casting for their father's land,

She
Greece
The
robes
courtiers,
and
suits
of their
of Achaemenid
officer elite
she
received,
The
Aeschylus,
kings
and
Persians
and
their women
memorialize
or durable
to
lengths of cloth draped around the

scarves,
kilts, vests, etc., of neighboring
body,
Anatolia.
I have suggested
and
Mesopotamia
the pre-Achaemenid
source for the
elsewhere
nics
in the monuments
crafts.
No woman
among
appears
of figures on parade in the stone
the hundreds
the limitations
imposed:
from the Treasure
several
features
some bone and metal

and
origin;
a singular
ently Perso-Egyptian;
figurines
Various
cippus-like
and a bronze
slab,
suit doubt
have
the
emphasized
influence on the Achae
the "ample robes."2 Hinz
court
as well
dresscloak,
as weapons
and labeled
the
derived
from the Elamite,
The
as
Elamite-Persian.3
sleeveless
shirt
is clad in a
relief at Pasargadae
winged "genius"
of
portraits
era indicates
bits of scribed
caftan and long tunic of the type worn by Elam

reliefs. But the other
ite prisoners in Assyrian
of
the
display the Per
palace complex
carvings
to take the
is no reason
sian Robe.4 There
a
figureobviously
associa
with
conjuration
foreign
metaphysical
dress.5
Achaemenid
tionsas
regulation
costume
date
appar-
caryatid
authorities
of Elamite
significance
menid court, stressing
Achaemenid
suggested
and shoes,
under-robe,
may
of uncertain
(fig. 1 ) and the tailored

from northern lands.1
Robe
less came
of the Oxus; a number

and mortuary
of Greco-Persian
seals,
gems,
steles (most if not all from Asia Minor); a prefound at Pazyryk;
cious
fragment of gobelin
metal
with
Persian
Persepolis,
ornamenting
Pasargadae,
tapestries
nor in the
Rustam
and the tombs at Naqsh-i
of Susa. The meager evienameled
brickwork
robto use for women's
dence that is available
but
a
for
a
true
history,
ing is hardly sufficient
sketch of the major

preliminary
to some purpose.
be entertained
off of the available
A ticking
women
during the Achaemenid
types of for
Robe which
Persian
dress: the so-called
they belted and draped in three or four ways and
the tailored two-piece
trousered suit usually re
Both styles are distinctly
ferred to as Median.
tu
different from costumes
based on kimonos,
commentainclined
men wore two basic
mal
and Medes, as well as

robing of Persians
is lavishly
disthat of their tributary peoples,
in their monumental
and minor arts,
played
of by the Greek
spoken
the Persians
were little
b.c.)
none
Achaemenid
male
But
472
can be assigned
definitely to
and
dates
are
workshop;
safely ex
in
centuries
some
only,
perhaps in the
pressed
late sixth, but the locus is the fifth and fourth,
has been recognized

ladies-in-waiting
Shall
we
in
only
passing.
place the blame for
in
on male
this disparity
scholarly
exegesis
I think not. The simple
fact is,
chauvinism?
even
to dwell.
provenance;
an Iranian
tentive
tors.
where
(produced
porting an incense bowl on her head, recovered

in Jordan. A pitiful few of these have an assured
do-
palace
discussed
while
mestics, have been generously
the dress of the dames of the court and their at-
and
Asia
sup-
of the
"genius"
83
flight.
upper
western
staircase,
northern
hall,
council
Persepolis,
1.
Fig.
84
Goldman:
Fig. 2.
a. Tchoga-Zanbil
Women's
figurine;
Robes
b. suggested
costume
design.
Given that the Persian

Robe is styled quite
differently from that depicted as worn by Elamwomen
ites, and that the robing of Achaemenid
resembled
that of their spouses,
one would as-
the skirt is rather some sort of shirred under

in the sketched
skirt, as suggested
figure (fig.
2-b). The allover disk patterning may be woven
into the material or it may stand for applique
or
to the Elamite
much resemble
Achaemenid
sume
least
some
Persian
woman
owed little, if anything,

tailor also. Early Elamite
styles
those of Mesopotamia,
but at
of the second
millennium
by the close
individualized
features
In the
appear.
the
wore a
Queen
century,
Napir-Asu
tunic
with
a
edged
floor-length
deep fringe and
covered with a shawl draped over one shoulder.6
A thirteenth-century
faience
from
figurine
is
in a
costumed,
Tchoga-Zanbil
differently
period
design
Ghirshman
pronounced
typical for the
am
not
certain
of the precise
(fig. 2-a).71
of her costume:
I take the two vertical
pears
open in front. Thus,

to be an inset panel
favored
in
dicate
whether
the gown is of one piecea
kimonoor
a tailored caftan belted at the waist
with a cape-like
top that covers her arms.8 Her
braid
long, curling
escapes to her shoulder from
that which
between
(bracteates)
long robe opens in the front, its loose,

deep
sleeves
tossed back to the elbow as she raises
her hands (fig. 3). The carving is too tiny (about
twelve millimeters
on a chalcedony
bead) to in
strips of laddering on the front lower section as

the decorative
borders of a wrap-around
skirt
worn
roundels
times.
But any possible

wom
carry-over of Elamite
en's fashions into the Persian household
should
not be peremptorily
dismissed.
A twelfth
Elamite
wears
a
century
princess
completely
different gown from those described above. Her
thirteenth
manner
metallic
first apthe legs on
under
adorn
a type of cloche.
Two sets of bracelets
her wrists. Although
the exact design of
85
goldman:
Women's
Robes
draping is without detail, either due to the art

ist's preference
illustrative
or, more probably,
of the simplicity
of the garment's
design.13 If
the Elamite,
as well as Persian, remains can be
at face value, the Achaemenid
dress
accepted
makers took note of the designs of their earlier
Elamite
but exercised
their creative
colleagues
skills to develop their own dress line!
Fig. 3.
courtesy
Photo:
bead
(BM
113886).
Reproduced
of the Trustees
of the British Museum.
Elamite
the
On the authority
of Herodotus
(1.135),
Persians
were most accepting
of foreign cus
toms. He notes that Persian men saw Median
dress as "more handsome
than their own," and
so they wore it. What then of the Persian wom
an's taste relative to her Median
sister's robes?
The
is hardly
moot;
question
speculation
rather than theory is all that can be hazarded
Me
on the style preferences
of the invisible
by
dian
woman.
As true in other regions and times of the an

cient world, the skirted robings of Achaemenid
men and women
are sufficiently
similar
to
have raised the question
as to the sex of the
the robe is in doubt, this miniature

portrait
documents
the Elamite
use of the full sleeve or
sleeve-like
that is one of the dis
arrangement
features of Achaemenid
tinguishing
robing for
both sexes. If the dress style were to be seen as
carried over into Achaemenid
times, then it is
to note another feature in the scene
interesting
that has an
with the little Elamite
princess
Beside the enthroned
Achaemenid
counterpart.
the princess
and her
lord, who acknowledges
burner similar in de
father, stands an incense
to the covered incense
burn
sign and position
ers scenting
the palace
ambiance
for Darius
Relief"
greeting his minister in the "Treasury
at Persepolis.9
wearer
Fig. 4.
Oxus,
in
one
Drawing
fig. 19.
Fig. 5. Carving
no. 103.
Oxus,
Later dames
of the Neo-Elamite
court, por
near Malamir,
trayed on the rock outcroppings
costumes.
Unfortunately,
appear in distinctive
erosion has erased most essential
details.10 Am
the wife of Hanni,
matena,
sports a short
sleeved
garment that falls to her hips where a
of fashionable
nineteenth
peplum, reminiscent
and America,
is
century a.d. wear in Europe
drawn over her floor-length
skirt.11 The neigh
shows a woman
boring relief, in poor condition,
in a long robe with tight sleeves.12
Neither
the typical
woman
wears
Achaemenid
deep
sleeve or has the robe draped in sweeping
folds.
relief carv
The often-illustrated
Neo-Elamite
ing of the spinner in the Louvre, seated on the
floor in Eastern fashion, appears
to be clothed
in an embroidered
loose shawl over a shift. The
or
on pyxis
plaque.
Fig. 7. Gold
no. 38.
bracteate.
10.
Plaque
syriennes,"
Fig.
11.
Calmeyer,
pl.
lid.
After
After Dalton,
After Dalton,
figurine.
19.1-3.
from
of the
Treasure
of the
Treasure
of the
Susa.
After
Oxus,
of the Oxus,
After Ghirshman,
from
figurine
men's
Treasure
Treasure
Dalton,
bronze
pl.
Fig. 9. Achaemenid
ivoires
achmnides,"
Fig.
The
examples.14
on finger ring. After Dalton,
Fig. 6. Gold
no. 89.
Fig. 8. Foroughi
sor de l'Oxus,"
two
"Le
Amiet,
tr
"Les
fig. 13.
Tell
Soukas.
After
Riis,
"Plaquettes
1, fig. 2.
Bronze
Brockelshen
Collection.
figurine,
no. 108.
Altiranische
Bronzen,
86
After
r.
r*>.
S5.1
10
11
87
Fig. 12. Limestone

relief of female.
Museum,
Wilson
half-round
The
Brooklyn
Charles
Edwin
63.37,
Fund.
Photo:
Courtesy
of the Brooklyn
Museum.
88
v'
'
,4k
w s
<mwmm w
A-'-J
^iSl
*
1:
f?V^
,;
ii-, r;w
*t!g
j*yi
'
u- *%*%
It
'.J?%
Fig.
13.
Susa
brick
'
pF^1
&
relief.
of incense
burner.
Amman,
Archaeologi
Fig. 14. Caryatid
cal Museum
After Mittmann,
Dei Knigsweg,
no.
J. 14651.
188.
89
goldman:
Women's
Robes
Hi
"WkTC
, , I M\
.O
*Ii
' Ao\ *>'
]k
J 4
Fig.
15.
a. Ivory
figurine
After Amiet,
"Les
ivoires
achmnides,"
finally, deno more than a retailed elsewhere,

requiring
minder here (fig. I).15 The ankle-length
robe
as a one-piece
tailored garment,
(reconstructed
or in two parts of top and skirt, or made of narrobe
has
been
from Susa.
adequately,
if not
At least that much is shown clearly in the

but other details, such as how the
monuments,
fabric was cut and sewn to achieve
these sev
eral
In any
effects, must be left to conjecture.
to work out the dress pattern,
one
attempt
that the Achaemenean
should remember
artist
was intent upon differentiating
among the folk
of the empire
their
distinctive
cos
through
tumes and not with providing a tailor's pattern
the loose
material
across butfront, drawing
tocks and legs in parallel curving folds that fall
down the legs. The fabric may be
diagonally
under the waist band to form a stack
bunched
of pleats between
the legs or in a double stack
actively
of robing.
the Persian
tucked
combat,
up
his robe under the waist band to free his legs
from the encumbering
drapery and tossed his
voluminous
for
sleeving up onto the shoulders
ease in handling bow or lance,
stitched
into folds
and
draped
panels
has a round neckline
and the
lengths) usually
or sleeve-like
distinctive
deep sleeves
draping.
However
cut and sewn, the ample skirt is worn
pulled up and secured under the waist band in
separated
ing. When
design
hand-to-hand
row
by a narrow
pl. 4; b. suggested
to serve future alien dressmakers,

art historians,
The
yet undreamed.
ist drew that which his eye saw
fall of horizontal
drapin the hunt or
engaged
90
much
less
Persian
art
(sometimes
goldman:
Women's
Robes
of the Oxus, conveniently

illustrated
Treasure
Pictured
there are a few
in Dalton's
volume.
in the
of women
dressed
cursory renderings
on the lid of a small
Persian Robe.17 Scratched
and man ca
box (Dalton,
fig. 19) are a woman
and over
a
scene
over
repeated
sually engaged,
in the Greco-Persian
gems. The woman raises a
flower to her face, sniffing its fragrance, the fa
miliar Persian gesture, her other hand extended
who
toward
her companion
conversationally
the so
similarly
(fig. 4). He wears
responds
the bashlyk,
caftan
called
Median
costume,
a belted tunic (the
thrown over his shoulders,
end of the tie is just visible), and trousers. His
than an
reflex bow is less bellicose
toy-size
of knightly status. His lady wears
affectation
the floor-length
loose robe drawn up in front
under an invisible
belt, draped and gathered in
The full sleeves drop

folds across the buttocks.
level
with
her knees.
Her
hair is
almost
combed
out over her forehead and falls down
her back in a long queue. Shoes with a marked
ear
and heavy
bracelets,
pennanular
instep,
the costume.18 This is the typi
rings complete
Robe
that is found in
cal woman's
Persian
with expected
minor variations
other examples
in details.
A single woman
chased
on a gold rectangle
no. 89) displays a bit more clearly the
(Dalton,
abundant
draping of the long skirt with the
the legs, all
bunched
fall of folds between
as in the
pulled together under the waistband,
man's robing (fig. 6). Her hair is combed into a
Reproduced
figurine. Photos:
of the Trustees
of the British Museum.
16.
Fig.
tesy
Silver
loose chignon
rather than braided.
Crenelated
no. 38) also were
tiaras and neck rings (Dalton,
donned, and, as in the men's robing, the gowns
and woven patterns or brac
carried embroidery
teates. The scribed rings on the sleeves
(fig. 7)
of the patterning
on the
are reminiscent
Tchoga-Zanbil
figurine.19 It is difficult to say
between
the
whether
differences
any minor
and men's robing that may be noted
women's
in the art
were deliberate
or simply omitted
by cour
called perceptual
reality), but altered in obedi
are
conventions.
These
ence to the prevailing
art
of
Persian
the common
burden of analyses
the
to
underscore
and need not detain us except
to
were extended
fact that formal conventions
controlled
its presentation
costume,
drawing
of the culture that in
by the esthetic principles
for symmetry,
clude
a preference
repetition,
of com
of line, and abstraction
simplification
plex
the
ist's abbreviated
rendering.
(For example,
while
sleeves
are pleated
at Persepolis
men's
are shown
the women's
sleeves
on the plaques
the latter, as the British Mu
plain.) I suspect
seum male figurine indicates
(fig. 16). The pau
I cannot
can be misleading.
city of examples
and
the sleeve detail of the women's
compare
from
the
Treasure
men's robes on the plaques
suit with
because
the men wear the Median
volumes.16
women
and
The similar
dress for Persian
the designation
"Persian
men allows extending
the costume
of both sexes,
Robe"
to include
in the
some
well represented
objects
among
91
goldman:
Louvre
sealing.
Cylinder
Museum.
of the Louvre
tesy
Robes
V*
17.
Fig.
Women's
Museum
AO
Photo:
22359.
Cour
Fig.
18.
Rudenko,
Fig.
19.
mitage
from tomb near

sealing
After Boardman,
Greek
Cylinder
Museum.
Anapa.
Gems,
State
no.
Her
878.
sleeve.20
least
two
of
the
women's
costumes
de
in the Treasure
nos. 103, 104)

(Dalton,
characteristic
of the Persian Robe,
picted
lack a major
the full sleeve (fig. 5). This, then, is an alter
nate dress style, apparently
a chiton-type
dress
somewhat
similar to the Greek, as mentioned
a
The Treasure
is not homogeneous,
by Dalton.
that
extends
over
a
considerable
gathering
number
of years. The pieces
mentioned
here
date
in
the
fifth
and
fourth
cen
very probably
turies
textile
Tombs,
design
and
detail.
After
fig. 139.
We can trace the woman's

Persian
Robe in
several
other representations,
sufficient to la
bel it the formal dress of the upper stratum and
its servitors
era. The
during the Achaemenid
bronze
which
illustrate
may
Foroughi
(fig. 8),
one of the earliest representations
of the robe,
carries an elaborate
set of neckbands,
bracelets,
and heavy
Her hair is
penannular
earrings.
combed
to fall down her back, fastened with a
wide barrette.21 Her belted gown has the full
sleeves
and curved draping over the buttocks,
but lacks the diagonal
folds in front. William
Culican
out
the
of this
similarity
pointed
and
its
dress
with
the
bronze
in
"Syrian"
figure
the Ashmolean,22
the British Museum
in
the
jar
shape of a woman,23 the Louvre figurine that is
and one from
closest to the Foroughi
example,
to
a
Kish ("all examples
point
single tradition
with regional variations").24
These and related
are difficult
figurines of uncertain
provenance
others
to date. Some are summarily
modeled,
worked in fuller detail, perhaps indications
of
different hands or workshops
or different dates,
is not
but the equation
among these variables
to be easily determined.
On the evidence
avail
it
seems
that
of
the
able,
unlikely
any
figurines
clothed in the Persian Robe antedate
the sixth
and that perhaps a forg

only a single exception,
He
is
drawn
with
his arm incongruously
ery.
as
if
on
visible,
lying
top of, rather than in, the
At
Pazyryk
Frozen
century
That
b.c.
some of these
as from Syrian,
gested
Babylonian
B.C.
workshops
figurines have been sug

and possibly
Phoenician,
at
the least,
indicates,
92
goldman:
-v
-;--x-:
Fig. 20.
sepolis
-sv.'
-.
r-
Textile
Women's
v.
..
patterns
from costume
of Skudra
(?) on Per
reliefs.
the international
currency of Persian robing in
Western
Asia.
One
is then tempted
to find
differences
in
the
of
the
Per
regional
adoption
sian Robe, but I do not believe
the evidence
is
or
to
war
sufficient,
satisfactorily
provenanced,
rant
Robes
that
excursion
as
yet.
Fig. 21. Scribed

drawing
lion from Toprak
kale.
on gold
Fig. 22.
relief.
The loose robing with deep sleeves, but with

few other identifiable
on sev
details,
appears
eral small figures holding the lotus-form flower
or touching their breasts. One comes from Susa
excavations
(fig. 9),25 another from the Danish
in Syria (fig. 10). The latter
at Tell
Soukas
figure shows traces of the center fall of drapery.
Riis places
her in his sixth- to fourth-century
classification
of this type.26 The small bronze
in
the
Brckelschen
collection
carries
figure
the flower in both hands (fig. 11), with the full
Persian sleeves well in evidence.27
But a unique
limestone
portrait of a Persian
woman
illustrates
Persian
in excep
robing
tional
detail:
the lateral
and
vertical
draping
fall of folds between
the legs, the full sleeves
and tasseled
cord knotted at the waist (fig. 12).
Because
it is unparalleled
in Persian and Egyp
tian art, it is impossible
to know what model
or models
were
(as suggested
by John Cooney)
behind this piece, appreciated
as the work of a
late fourth-century
b.c. Egyptian
carver.28 The
of
the
coiffure
and draping
general arrangement
from male figures,
could have been "adapted"
such as those at Persepolis,
or from an un
known original. If the very soft modeling
of the
is
not
and
is
also
garment
Egyptian (so Cooney)
alien to Persian
stone carving,
from whence
does it come?
The bronze caryatid
from Jordon wears the
skirt of her robe in the usual fashion, drawn up
Daskylion
grave
93
medal
goldman:
under the tasseled waist cord, although the art

ist seems to have changed his mind at the hem
line where he reversed the fall of drapery. The
robe carries a decorative
edging and collar (fig.
down
the
broad
decorated
panel
14).29 The
Women's
Robes
lennium
b.c.35
Small
veils
or
seem
scarves
of
the use
indicating
lighter material, possibly
silk in Achaemenid
dressmaking?36
of
The dog-tooth
borders
and rectangular
de
signs in the Pazyryk fabric are often employed
in Achaemenid
art (fig. 20).37 Given the elabo
and ornamented
rately patterned
garb of the
length of the skirt on either side does not, I sus

an over-robe, but rather results
pect, indicate
from gathering
the skirt forward at the sides
into a deep fold held in place by the waist cord.
of the Louvre
I would
the garment
propose
guards in the Susa brick reliefs (fig. 13), as well

as the scratched
still visible
on the
drawings
can
robes at Persepolis,
we
surely
expect the
women's
at
to
have
been
least
as rich in
robing
this suggested
ar
(fig. 15-a, b) follows
The
be
Persian
Robe
could
draped
rangement.30
with the aid of the waist cord in different ways,
as is evident
at Persepolis
(fig. 1) or on the
ivory
stitchwork,
dyes, decorative
embroidery,
appli
or bracteates,
and trim of
qu borders, spangles
fabrics and furs.38 Later tradition
contrasting
often-illustrated
silver figurine in the British
Museum
(fig. 16); even so did Greek and Roman
women wear their chiton and peplos, himation
includes
gold embroidered
purple robes among
the booty collected
at Per
by the Macedonians
sepolis where Erich Schmidt found bits of cloth
and stola
in a variety of stylish drapings.

On occasion,
the Achaemenid
woman donned
a veil also, as pictured in the charming domestic
on the de Clerq
AO
scene
(Louvre,
sealing
The
with
her feet
22359, fig. 17).31
dame, seated
sniffs a blossom.
daintily raised on a footstool,
shot with gold.39 The early sixth-century

b.c.
from Toprak kale shows a fash
gold medallion
ionable
Urartaean
woman
in a fringed veil
worn over a tight-sleeved
long gown (fig. 21).
Her robing, like that of the Pazyryk women,
carries
rectangular
designs, probably the small
metal
ornaments
that lent additional
stamped
to
in
Western
Asia.40
sparkle
costuming
Before her, a handmaiden

offers a small bird and
is accompanied
by a lady of the court. Format,
but otherwise
chair, and oversized,
typical,
domed incense burner are pure Achaemenid,
as
is the women's
robing. The seated noblewoman
The
marble
drawn her large, bordered veil over a ser

rated tiara, while the standing
to
lady seems
have tied her smaller veil scarf-like around her
crenelated
tiara.32 The Persian women on scar
noblewoman
grave
on the couch
seated
relief
from
on the
Daskylion
(fig. 22)
has
scaraboid
Fig. 23. Chalcedony
Greek Gems,
no. 964.
aboids
and the flower-carrying

in ani
dames
mated conversation
over a perfuming
incense
stand accompanied
on the
by their handmaidens
Pazyryk fabric also wear the smaller veil (fig.
hemline
of the Pazyryk
18).33 The
sloping
women indicates
that the robes are draped and
drawn up in front. Although
they too wear
crenelated
tiaras, the two girls are only hand
maidens
to their ladies,
signaled
by their
smaller stature and the modest hand pose char
acteristic
of attendants
as they carry the towel.
Fig. 24.
graved
sealing.
After
After
Boardman,
Richter,
sealing.
After Boardman,
Greek
sealing.
After
Fig. 27. Sard

no. 508.
Richter,
Engraved
scaraboid.
Fig. 29.
scription.
En
6.
scaraboid
Fig. 26. Chalcedony
Greek Gems,
no. 879.
Fig. 28. Greco-Persian

p. 34, no. 3.
draping suggests
doubt variously
in the first mil
scaraboid
pi. 34, no.
Fig. 25. Chalcedony

no. 903.
They do not wear the veil, but its absence is not

a necessary
sign of subordinate
rank, for no less
a personage
than the goddess
astride
Anahita,
her lion in a star-burst of light, is robed and
coiffured as becomes
a Persian lady but shuns
the veil (fig. 19).34
The fullness of Achaemenid
a linen or a light wool,
no
dyed, as worn in Mesopotamia
Chalcedony
Gems,
sealing.
After
sealing.
After
Boardman,
Richter,
scaraboid
with added
Chalcedony
sealing
After Richter,
no. 510.
Engraved
Gems,
94
Gems,
Gems,
Hesperia,
Kufic
in
29
27
95
96
goldman:
Women's
wears Persian-style
earrings and the crenelated
tiara over which she has drawn her long robe.41
of the former, the miniature

length sleeves
of dress are often difficult to iden
depictions
tify as Persian or Greek. Boardman
may well be
correct when he views the similar method
of
draping used in both types of robes as the result
of the Persians
the Greek example
following
Under the open robe is a full-length shift or, in

that she comes from East Greek Lydia, a short
sleeve chiton, for her arms are bare. Her robing
is basically
the same as the traveling costume
pictured on the relief from Erghili near Dasky
lion,42 and no doubt the type of dress in the East
mural
Greek
of the Painted
House
for representing
the robe most effectively.45
inno
(One must be on guard: this resolution,
cent on the surface, has partisan implications
for the hotly contested
matter of Greek or Per
at Gordion.
Her heavy penannular

earrings are also carried
on the ivory head from Sardis.43 The extension
of Persian
and cultural
political
the East Greek sphere
ing the Achaemenid
identified
The
into
Anatolia
dur
in western
nationality
era
sianOrient
these
as of this genre.
of the gem cutters
has been
argued in an extensive
bibliography.
I gladly fol
the artisans' nationality,
low John Boardman who sees the majority of the
gems to be Greek in style but Persian in shape
gown in tight folds across the buttocks with the

fall of vertical draping between
the legs (figs.
The
women's
heeled,
24-31).48
shoes, possibly
arch (figs. 26, 28, 30).49 In the
have a noticeable
full
coiffure, the hair appears combed
popular
and subject matter.44 As the Greek esthetic con

in the modeling
of the
tribution
is obvious
is
so
relaxed
and
so
also
the
intimate,
women,
of the Greeks
orientation
above
the brow and then drawn down over the

to be gathered into a long queue, braided
(fig. 29), clipped with a barrette or tied at the
end, falling to the small of the back (fig. 24).
scaraboids
show the
Some of the Greco-Persian
that brought the

out of the conceal
ears
image of the Persian woman

of the seraglio into the arts.
ing shadows
Some of the women on the gems and sealings
in a slightly different
in the previous
examples,
and others pose in a version of the Greek chi
ton. Indeed,
deep, full
except for the telltale
drape their Persian
manner
than done
Fig. 30.
Impressions
ter, Engraved
Gems,
Robe
from pear-shaped
no. 503.
pendant.
queue in a series of knobs along its length (figs.

the result of spiral
28, 32), perhaps
depicting
binding with a gold ribbon weighted at the end
carefully
by the two or three metal baubles
as the
Korres suggested
shown.
So Georgios
spiral gold ribbon that
purpose of a recovered
would fit the purpose admirably.50
clothes are designed
Today and historically,
After Rich
to
from
Fig. 31.
Impression
Greek
Boardman,
Gems,
facet
no.
from
Fig. 32. Impression
Greek Gems,
no. 990.
of a red
Fig. 34.
Detail
Khodzhash,
from
horse
et al., Erebuni,
gem.
silver
ring.
After
of Leningrad
rhyton
fig. 126.
from
Boardman,
seal.
Erebuni.
reveal,
even
to
enhance,
the
current
fash
in the Achae
ions in body type. Conversely,
menid era the preferred female figure was an
The
influential
factor in styling the robes.
the
ruben
for
Persian
voluptuous
preference
in the clothed
women
figure, apparent
esque
is confirmed
in
on the Greco-Persian
seals,
After
876.
from facets
Impressions
no. 861.
Greek Gems,
Boardman,
Fig. 33.
jasper
at work on the
Greek robes (figs. 23, 30).46 But many of the

items clearly illustrate
Greco-Persian
the full
Persian robe: high necked and floor length with
The long, perhaps gold-threaded,
deep sleeves.
tasseled
chord47 girdles the waist to draw the
variously
Whatever
cial
oder Romartists
Persepolis
reliefs!)
The seated harpist with a long veil cascading
down her back and the woman with a veil hold
clad in
ing a bird out to a child are doubtless
ex
produced
of Greco-Persian
art that is richly docu
in the gems and seal stones that have
amples
mented
been
influence
Robes
the unfettered figure on a quadruple

stamp seal
a
stretches
nude
in Leningrad
(fig. 33). Here,
her
arched
on
tiny feet,
luxuriously,
tiptoe
the full bosom, strong shoul
back emphasizing
After
in bashlyk
ders, and slender waist. A bowman
of the
of
the
facets
one
dress on
and Median
and
a Greek-clad
posed
seal, and on another
After
97
goldman:
Women's
bearded
man playing with a puppy, assure us
the
seal
in the Greco-Persian
that
belongs
drew a
world.51 (Archaic
Greek vase painters
short, thick Mediterranean
physique.)
Robes
on the diagonally
figurines show a variation
mantle with
draped skirt and the ankle-length
borders
drawn
over the heads
of
patterned
women
manner
posed in the familiar Persian
with hand-held
flowers and vases.54
the uncommon
of Persian
Certainly
qualities
women
were not lost on the Romans
who ad
ventured
in the East. "But as to maidens

who
were taken prisoner (and they were beautiful,
as is usual in Persia where the women excel in
that respect), he (the emperor] refused to touch
a single one or even to look upon her, following
the example
of Alexander
and Africanus,
who
avoided
such conduct,
in order not to be un
Notes
1. . Goldman, "Origin of the Persian Robe,"
IrAn 4 (1964), 133-52. W. Reimpell, Geschichte der
und assyrischen
babylonischen
Kleidung, ed. E.
Meyer (Berlin, 1916). On the Median contribution,
nerved by passion,"
linus 24.4.27.
Well
retrojection,
Marcel
reports Ammianus
aware of the fallibility
of
in
matters
of
taste, I
particularly
see
2.
Terrasses
assimilation
noting
of
Persian
robes,
the
G.
Lukonin,
The
of
Ancient
Iran
sacres
Elamite
des
Bard-
be
of Elam
used
after
the
between
that
for
the
the
W.
Hinz,
Briant,
Elamite
name
of the
in population,
change
Architecture
and
Altiranische
Funde
E.
and
"Elamite"
inhabitants
und
old
"Classic
Sculpture,"
vol. 2, p. 823.
3.
P.
culture,
IrAn 19 (1984), 92-96.
distinction
suggests
to
Achaemenian
CHIr,
Forschungen,
pp. 74, 92, fig. 27; p. 72, Elamite kuktu (ku-uk-tu4) =

OP
*kantus;
an
kandys,
"Iranian
son,
Dress
outer
in the
G.
cloak/robe.
Achaemenian
Thomp
Iran
Period,"
3 (1965), 121-26, identifies the kandys as the Median

mantle.
R. D.
Barnett,
Representation
P.
Achaemenid
A.
eds.,
in
in H.
Achaemenid
to Strabo
According
long
the
Persians."
4.
the
Sasa
robe
today
For
later
E.
R.
tunic,
history
Trachtgeschichtliche
tel und rmeljacke,"

V.
578-741;
An Archaic
1973), 5-9.
silver
horse rhyton with its

rider (fig. 34).53 Some lingering,
fashions
admittedly
fragile, traces of Persian
in the one-time
Achaemenid
may be visible
eastern regions. Fourth-century
a.d. terra-cotta
Median-garbed
5.
R.
D.
Barnett,
gadae
Pasargadae
(1967),
and
and
The
is from
was
sleeved
"Ex
Greek
Media
passed
that
on
and
coat/caftan
Oriente
to
Vestimenta:
zu
Beobachtungen
rmelman
in ANRW 2.12.3 (Berlin, 1985),

The
of Eurasian
"Anath,
MUSf 45 (1969), 407-22;

for the
"It
Gervers-Molnar,
Mantle
II:
History
Persian
of the
Knauer,
Earliest
14
Historiography
11.13.9,
called
The
vol.
Sancisi-Weerdenburg
Sources (Leiden, 1987), 11-12.

the
Iran.
SPA,
"Greek
Calmeyer,
Reliefs,"
Kuhrt,
and
"Assyria
of Persians,"
2997-3007;
and
lighter,
nian designers.
The
of the
early popularity
Greek chiton in a Persian context is illustrated
in the thoroughly Classical
of figures
procession
Erebuni
V.
1989), 82-89.
Porada,
land
The fully draped Persian Robe seems not to

have remained
wardrobes after
long in women's
the fall of the Achaemenid
empire, replaced by
the
and
Institutions
Ghirshman,
continued
and calves full above trim ankles.

She
stands on small,
delicate
feet with long toes
and a well-defined
instep. Her nails must be
snow-white.
Her broad head supported
on a
slender neck is framed in luxurious
reddish
and luminous
black
hair;
gold
large
eyes,
like
those
of
a
are
gazelle,
almond-shaped
veiled by soft long lashes under brows fine as
wool above an aquiline
nose and teeth
sheeps'
brilliant as the moon, all set in an unblemished
the color of pomegranates.52
complexion
on
Dandamaev
Social
"La Perse avant l'empire,"
formed
and
R.
Persian
raised and
ample breasts, shaped like quinces,
pressed together. Below her slender waist are a
firm belly and stout hips with high, full but
her thighs are large, the knees
well
tocks;
of the Seleucids
gowning
airier fabrics of the Parthian
A.
and
Nchandeh
et de Masjid-i Solaiman, vol. 1, MDAI
45 (Paris, 1976), 274. See . F. Schmidt, Persepolis,
vol. 1, OIP 68 (Chicago, 1953), pp. 117, 163, n. 38;
R. Barnett, "Persepolis,"
Iraq 19 (1957), 76. On the
The literature would have her neither too old

nor too young. She is to be of medium
height
and, if godlike, tall; her body supple and firm,
with
endowed
well-formed
and
shoulders
white arms sturdy as a horse's
shoulder, her
looser
M.
(Cambridge,
our unabashed
suggest
measuring
Leningrad
nude against the Persian ideal woman
that can
be drawn from post-Achaemenid
descriptions.
the
now
Culture
genius
Ba'al
and
the various
figure,
(Oxford, 1978), 53-55;
98
D.
Szur:
Hungarian
Origin
(Toronto,
Pasargadae,"
held
opinions
Stronach,
Pasar
further discussion
on
goldman:
sources
possible
in C.
dae, Boreas 1 (Uppsala,

6.
G.
in
Pasarga
de
la
reine
in
the
Ashmolean
17.
Napir-Asou,"
P.
Museum,
R.
S.
G.
"Some
Azarpay,
Classical
and
V.
Textes
Scheil,
L.
11.
Vanden
MDP
"Les
reliefs
18.
de
rupestres
l'Iran
ancien
(Brussels,
1984),
12.
Vanden
in
Hanne,"
of S. H.
"Les
Berghe,
Locust's
reliefs
lamites,"
14.
and
Such
as
on
a door
jar
sepolis.
the
M.
ed. (London,
beardless
youth
of the
jamb
The
Dalton,
palace
Treasure
O.
38
the
of
absence
the
well
as
pieces,
in
Persian
proud
as
leaves
gold
the
full
on
beard
body
G.
"Greeks
Starr,
and
Persians
tory
references
cites
16,
of
the
Persian
the
Persian
wearing
on
Robe.
Robe,
the
For
the
various
P. Calmeyer,
"Zur
sign
16.
See
topsleeve,
the
instructive
poncho,
essay
or pelerine,
by
P.
"AufreihungDuplikKopieUmbildung"
3d
amines
parallel
design
reliefs and inscriptions,
conventions
Punic
of the
Bulletin
Third
De
The
in A.
p. 5, fig. 2;
Norbert
Schim
extended
Clerq,
group,
Parrot,
M.
(Paris,
1973), 255, Na
and
Chhab,
A.
Madrid;
Museum,
De
J.
Valley,"
1974), no. 56. That the Per
of a geographically
example
W.
Susa;
Pactolus
70 (1972),
Art:
Les Phniciens
vol.
Catalogue,
de
7,
Rid
1:
pt.
1911), p. 135, no. 788, perhaps
(Paris,
W.
Etruscan
b.c.
tury
in
Vulci
the
R.
BM,
Higgins,
"Syro-Achaemenian
Ampullae,"
head
from
the
"in
the
of"
manner
S. Necropolis
the
at Sardis,
C.
7th
cen
D.
Cur
tis, Sardis, vol. 13.1, Jewelry and Gold Work (Rome,

1925), p. 35, no. 87.
and
the
There
19.
roundels,
is
of Israel"
apparel");
Une
Dangin,
extensive
sewn
etc.,
("daughters
the
among
relation
literature
on
fabrics,
e.g.
onto
with
"ornaments
Sargon's
de
la
gold
plaques,
II Sam.
1.24
of gold
huitime
"embroidery
of
gold,"
Ancient
upon
F. Thureau
plunder,
de
campagne
S argon (Paris, 1912), but D. D. Luckenbill
his
ways
Culican,
female
ivory
Per
in
Records
preferred
of
Assyria
and Babylonia, vol. 2 (Chicago, 1927), 97; Curtis,

"The
Jewelry and Goldwork, A. L. Oppenheim,
Golden Garments of the Gods," JNES 8 (1949), 172
of
Genese
93;
M.
Russia
44-47.
Calmeyer
and
Asiatic
of the
from
possibly
(Mainz,
Cyprus;
seum,
Tra
altiranischer Motive 10: Die elamisch-persische
de
on
the
of
the
AMI
2
cht,"
(1989), 35-36;
question
of the
Western
It An 11 (1975), fig. 6; the earring worn by the small
argues
and
construction
la
elabo
men
Bulletin
Gold
Archaeological
your
C.
of the
Persian
by
at Pasargadae:
Ancient
Collection
from
Fourth Century B.C., pt. 3," IrAn 12 (1977), p. 56,

n.
the
Les bijoux
female.
15.
as
Fabulous
is part
type
der,
two
contours,
de
Lands (London, 1965), pi.

Jewellery from Classical
13-a; Late Babylonian from Kish in the Field Mu
me,
these
Oxus
of the Oxus," JRAS
Acquisitions,"
Muscarella,
S. Moscati,
34,
Oxus,
(nos.
scribed
figures
the
Archologique
preserved
"Excavations
Museum
W.
e.g.
at Per
because
for male,
perhaps
89), finally
opting
sians
so rarely
mortal
women.
For
pictured
two
the
of the
dieu
Maxwell-Hyslop,
mel Collection
to identify the sex of
1964), hesitated
earrings
collection
"The
Boston
towel
carrying
of Darius
are
worn
Recent
shman
2,
p.
du
Revue
examples
Stronach,
"Selected
Leg:
pi. 23.
13. Amiet, Elam, no. 413.
the
For
troit Institute of Arts 64 (1989), 55, from the Ghir
(London,
Taqizadeh
34-38.
Preliminary Report," Iran 3 (1965), pp. 31-33, pi. 11;
tional
des
sanctuaire
R.
e.g.
D.
chen
in Honour
1962), 105-16.
un
wrought
559;
sian
Inschriften
Trea
and
Jewellery (London, 1971), pp. 268-69, figs. 256-59;

R. Ghirshman, Persia (London, 1964), figs. 322-24,
pl. 1; bibliography, idem, Bibliographie

analytique
de l'archologie de l'Iran ancien (Leiden, 1979), nos.
1069-80. Hanni inscription, W. Hinz, "Die elamis
Studies
of Bactria
8 (1968),
Septentrionale,"
women:
de
no.
Method
of the
history
Art
It An
Oxus,"
Splendid
rately
IrAn 3 (1963), p. 35, pi. 24; idem, Reliefs
Malamir,"
"The
(1981), 196; idem., "The Temple

(1981), 134-35.
lamites
modern
Barnett,
dans
Bactriane
Young,
Berghe,
of the
D.
of the
vertes
Eastern
lamites-Anzanites,
(Paris, 1901), 135-41.
R.
III:
History
possible identification of the find spot of the trea

sure, B. A. Litvinskij and I. R. Pitchikjan, "Dcou
Motifs in the Art of Pazyryk," ArtAs 22 (1959), 329.

10. G. Jquier, "Description du site de Malamir,"
in
review
in
Treasure
Moorey,
Near
sure
Ancient Iiaq (Oxford, 1976), pi. 21.

7. R. Ghirshman, "Tchoga-Zanbil:
Rapport pr
liminaire de la viie campagne (1958-1959),
AAs 6
(1959), p. 266, fig. 7; P. Amiet, Elam (Anvers-sur
Oise, 1966), no. 268.
8. BM 113886, inscribed by the Elamite ruler
Shilhak-Inshushinak
(c. 1150-1120 b.c.) to one of his
four daughters, his "beloved Bar-Uli." E. Sollberger,
"A New Inscription of Silhak-Inusinak, " Journal of
Cuneiform Studies 19 (1965), 31-32.
9.
Achaemenid
eds.,
and Theory (Leiden, 1988).
in MDP 8 (Paris, 1905), pp. 245-50, pis. 15, 16. In

similar Old Babylonian robing are the ivory figurine,
MDP 7 (1905), pi. 4, and the headless limestone figu
rine
Robes
Weerdenburg,
1979), p. 126 and n. 322.
"Statue
Lampre,
Ionians
Nylander,
Women's
fig. 17;
Russia
on
that ex
denko,
101-3;
in Achaemenian
in A. Kuhrt and H. Sancisi
I. Rostovtzeff,
Iranians
and
Greeks
in
South
(Oxford, 1922), pp. 130, 234, pis. 18, 23,

. H. Minns, Scythians and Greeks in South
(Cambridge, 1913), p. 58, fig. 84; S. I. Ru
Frozen Tombs of Siberia (Berkeley, 1970), 76,
P. Amandry, "Orfvrerie achmnide," AntK
99
goldman:
(1958),
C.
9-23;
"Problems
Kardara,
64 (1960),
Cult-Images,"
A]A
"Achaemenid
Jewelry
in
Women's
of
343-58;
Oriental
the
Hera's
H.
ane
21.
VIIIe
du
iranien
conqute
"Les
Kuz'mina,
l'Iran
et
teau
et
l'Asie
Kantor,
du
atische
des
Le
et
Hrouda,
and
la
Archologie:
de
trsor
l'art
Mde,"
in
Nagel,
eds.,
Festschrift
K.
Vorderasi
(Berlin,
Moortgat
1964), p. 91, pl. 19, figs. 1-3.

22. . Schefold, Die Griechen und ihre Nachbarn
(Berlin, 1967), pp. 203-4, fig. 360-b.
BM
23.
P.
24.
1976),
and Islamic
P.
Wolfe,
and
Antiquities
Works of Art (March, 1984), no. 200.

"Les
Amiet,
achmnide
ivoires
de
26.
P.
dans
J.
Riis,
robe:
prliminaire
sur
H.
la
de
(1971) Ras Shamra,"

27.
P. Calmeyer,
Phoenician
belted
D.
Harden
Phoenicians
tarte
fold,
the
their
leaving
inedita
placchetta
8th-7th
nude
clothed
wear
in
with
deep
century
females
b.c.,
arms
the
chiton
bare,
dall'Alta
their
Western
viz.
Siria
Connections,"
69-90.
28.
A.
con
M.
la
the
the
Father
For
family
Art,"
"Persian
Cooney,
Journal
Influence
in
the
of the
American
singular
(63.37),
late
nature
this
Brooklyn
of
it is worth
John
the
summarizing
Cooney.
C.
15
Museum
33.
Pazyryk
de
cm,
of
soft
for
mon
von
Bissing,
"Totenstele
and
ZDMG
Memphis,"
an
83
fashion
incongruous
in
participating
S. Bianchi,
eds.,
Dei
"Sur
le
4, no.
robes
on
Parrot
b.c.),
typ
"Perser in
vol.
in
century
Vaux,
turreted
6,
the
et
al.,
9000
Knigsweg:
voile
d'un
propos
later
des
femmes
bas-relief
I.
robing.
incense
tiaras
de
in
dcouverte
IiAn
the
13
to have
appears
(1978),
the
and
gods
Ira
d'une
of
property
by
period
royal
tyches,
devolved
well.
Frozen
Iron
of
Tombs
of Siberia:
Horsemen
Age
The
(Berkeley,
fig. 139. Rudenko noted as Assyr
carried
by the
these
However,
stand,
tiara,
carried
Rudenko,
towels
"La
Darabgird,"
or
as
Burials
the
crenelated
Berghe,
also
nobility
S.
and
Vanden
1970), pp. 296-97,

ian
etc.,
smaller
features
are
as
Persian.
figures
as
well
The
date
and
the
the
tiaras,
of Kurgan
in which the fabric was found, c. 350 b.c., J. Haskins,

"China and the Altai," AI 2 (1988), 1.
rows
Center
the
of the
women,
from
struction),"
of
of
of crenelated
cloth
holding
observations
un-Egyp
Greek,
gyptologie,
et al.,
Achaemenid
upon
premen
Research
are
Memphite
Persian
(4th
rupestre
The
crown
the
over
Egyp
on
dress
ancien,
the
and
pose,
in Late
R.
L.
art,
The
(1949),
of
of the drap
Persian,
in
der
S. Mittmann
paint
examination
p. 56, fig. 41.
l'Orient
138-41.
Berytus
adaptation
of
aus
male
stele
Byblos
sculpture
"Una
Bisi,
dea
in Egypt 4 (1965), pp. 44-46, figs. 7, 8. Because
the
Lexikon
For
947.
Reconstruction
J. D.
tian
in
col.
that
tesi i seni," Annali, Istituto Orientale de Napoli 17

(1967), pp. 154-56, pis. 1, 2. The dating sequence es
tablished by P. J. Riis, "The Syrian Astarte Plaques
and
in Achaemenid
32.
their
same
with
or
produced for the Persians at
often
combine
nian
robe,
holding
in
figures
Greek-style
Grossen
characters
Samm
long
sleeves
W.
"Stelae,
gypten,"
Iranian
black
Palmyre," RB (1935), 397-412.
1962), p. 310, fig. 63. The "As
usually
include
they
the
(London,
plaques,"
breasts,
but
in
places
woman
and
F.
elements,
31.
(Berlin, 1964), no. 108. Cf. a Syro

a
have
origin.
blending
persischen
dans
fouilles
der
Bronzen
close
of Persians
the
lion-head
and
earrings
Per
possibly
feet
copy
barrel
of its
Memphis,
"Rapport
de
Syria 49 (1972), p. 12, fig. 15.
jar of
ivory
a waist
cord,
with
al.,
campagne
Altiranische
lung Brckelschen
et
Contenson
XXXIIe
blue,
form
Jahie Kunst und Kultur in Jordanien (Mainz, 1987),

pp. 172-73, no. 188.
30. P. Amiet, "Les ivoires," pp. 173-74, fig. 4-a, b, c.
milieux grecs," MUSJ 37 (1960-1961),

pp. 194-95, pl. 1-2. Also, a ceramic figurine in
Achaemenid
tell
and
Louvre
d'Astart
syriennes
and
representation
29.
"Plaquettes
des
it may
Les Phniciens,
Suse,"
Syria 49 (1972), fig. 13.
red,
ically Egyptian rituals."R.
in
Catalogue,
Eastern
what
eines
(Paris,
type
tiny
Egyptian
and
diadem,
and
deserves
carving
(1929), 226-38.
vessel
Sotheby
Near
The
Egyptian
"Ampullae,"
of the
bronze
heavy
tian.
For
Asiatic
Luristan
W. Culican,
Lester
Classical
Egyptian,
du
antiquits
small
of
"Western
Barnett,
no. 241;
Another
collection
25.
Les
Amiet,
D.
an
breasts,
ery,
uments
27 (1964), p. 80, pl. 31-d.
BMQ
p. 908,
100-112.
the
R.
132620,
Antiquities,"
of
Traces
hair
but
rosette
robing,
Perhaps
of the
of the
Egyptian,
hands,
clasped
base.
style"
the Persian original, the full modeling
E.
Bittel,
The
antecedents.
les
l'Oxus,
suggest
detail.
survive.
"Le
W.
in
figure
a curved
Neo-Memphite
treatment
making
the
on
slab
half
Tura,
certain,"
unmarked
the
b.c.;
necklace
bracelet,
pla
origines
century
sian
an
"so-called
site
thus
Cairo,
reasonably
from
the
of the
Bactri
in
B.C.,"
in
and
Memphis
out
is
4th
(Paris, 1977), 204.
Luristan
B.
Henrich,
le
stands
at the
limestone
origin
Memphite
It
the
between
way
Institute,"
entre
sicle
Centrale
Ghirshman,
bronzes
IVe
au
islamique
R.
relations
with
"identical
JNES 16 (1957), 1-23; Muse Rath, Trsors de l'an

cien Iran (Geneva, 1966), no. 649; E. O. Negahban,
A Preliminary Report on Marlik Excavations
(Teh
ran, 1964), nos. 82, 83.
20.
Robes
Nissen
A.
the
the
walls
Gavrilova,
5th
burial
(in Russian)
suggests
the
cloth
in
with
"The
walking
and
squares,
pattern
mound
at
blocks
of an
Pazyryk
SGE 45 (1980), 52-55.
hanging
as
from
lions,
with
Iranian
(recon
Zick
Achaemenid
Asia Minor, "Kniipfteppich von Pazyrik und die Frage
limestone
100
goldman:
seiner Datierung,"
of a western
that
suggestion
rics
have
city
walls
nal
AA (1966), 580-81.
Anatolian
the
their
crenelated
in
carpet
their
horses
been
attributed,
on
pattern
schemes
weavers
with
in
"A
58
use
Median-type
the
blanket
by the
the
centuries
weakens
lack
to Turkic
"New
A.
L.
dery,
V.
in 7th-century
tablets:
Textes
"Elamite
VDI
Al-Jadir,
on
Note
des
Some
Susan
par
How
the
faithful
the
but
question,
is
representations
richness
general
and
on
from
obtained
true
holds
doubt
Persian
clothing
de
inventaire
assyriens
cludes
in
terms
general
Cf.
goods.
RAAO
et autres,"
Achaemenid;
Greenewalt,
"Lydian Textiles,"
E.
From
eds.,
at a Memorial
(Philadelphia,
Cotton
plant
ance
appears
b.c.;
century
a
late
in Iran
Athens
Symposium
1980), 135.
it was
import
exotic
into
or Mesopotamia
The
to Gordion:
by
fabric
Africa;
its
the
earliest
is uncertain.
M.
not
seems
Richter
ed.,
fabrics
and
had
the
the
prohibi
and
textile
reli
linen;
viz.
colors,
of BAM
Study
highly
likely
Persia.
Over
for
argued
silk
was
that silk
sixty
in
AnatSt
years
ago,
b.c.
5th-century
despite the lack of direct evidence,
and she
doubt
"Silk
that
the
Persians
AJA 33 (1929),
silk
weaving
the
First
as
used
as
early
it also,
middle
the
in
the Chinese
That
27-33.
Centuries
Seven
Europe
(1985),
325;
P.
of
the
A.
B.
L.
also
in Ancient
and
Studies
Sites
the
rather
than
cian,
and
38.
P.
4th
Fars
JESHO
at Perse
(Rome,
de
groupe
Dacia
1972),
trsors
27 (1983), 57-58,
this
wearing
Silk
B.C.:
century
India,"
"La
"Indices
OLP
de
5 (1974),
Sketch
Achaemenian
between
robe
as
a Thra
a Skudra.
Naster,
Persepolis,"
Papers
figure
in
89
AJA
B.C.,"
Restorations
of
Alexandrescu,
accepts
500
by the
thrace du nord des Balkans,"
in
Era,"
AJA 92 (1988), 277-78.
at least
Other
Christian
"Conversations
Drooker,
B. Tilia,
284ff.
pp.
to
Mediterranean
in India
and
of the
E. Barker, "Textiles
166-79;
and Lei Zu,"
China
polis
"Un
and
of
and
of Harold
woolen
mixing
Achaemenid
A.
37.
Slab
peinture
47-48;
and
the
des
reliefs
P. Roos,
Ornaments
"An
of the
EW 20 (1970), 53-55;
Royal Dress at Persepolis,"
and
Studies
Restorations,
pp. 284-86, figs.
Tilia,
139, 140, 147. A Jewish bride of Elephantine brings
mid-18th
in China
Rise
2.81,
goods,
J.
Near
Gervers,
different
aspect
L. Gopal, "Textiles
(1961), 66.
S. Young
for Rodney
in
the
no
Jr.,
V.
Herodotus
woolen
State:
and
in K. de Vries and
at Mohenjo-Daro
an
of
51-92,
of
in Memory
Asia,
against
the
"The
in
C.
world,
234,"
from
dcors
71 (1977),
H.
C.
ancient
Textiles
viz.
magical
Anxiety
Arachne
evidence
Textiles
Tar-Tukulti-Ninurta:
Western
JRAS (1970-1971),
literature
Barrelet,
of
"Prescription
in
to
peoples
the
Cotton,"
on
(mar
Papyri
(Oxford, 1923). For a sum
R. M. Watson,
22:11
ketubah
Aramaic
2d millennium b.c., and their silk thread appeared

in the West by the 8th century, V. Sylwan, "Silk
from the Yin Dynasty," BMFEA 9 (1937), 119-26;
M. Loewe, "Spices and Silk: Aspects of World Trade
for contemporary
M.-Th.
L. J. Majewski,
Kohler,
and
lands
neighboring
in her
Cowley,
in
World
the
Greece,"
12
variety
The
can be trusted.
patterning
textiles
is scant;
Achaemenid
however,
and
colors
A.
for an
were
J. V.
open
and finely
. K. Ritter and V. J. Kinnier Wilson,
did
(1979), 316-18; R. Koldewey, Die Knigsburgen von

Babylon, WVDOG 54 (Osnabriick, 1969 d.), p. 122,
pl. 39, fig. 7; . Haerinck, "Le palais achmnide de
Babylone, IrAn 10 (1973), 120, 122, for the colors
used in Achaemenid costuming in the glazed brick
work.
clothing
coarse
Mediaeval
restrictions
Greece
les
AMI
Bricks,"
women's
attachments,
in Deut.
G.
(in
129-47.
as
period
in indus
in
cotton
1937);
Old
ancient
known
Susa:
toffs
Sumer 30 (1979),
of
30 (1980), 26.
36. It now
dyes, W.
Assyrian
well
Persian
cotton
using
recorded
in
(Paris,
similarly
commentary"
et entretien
"Preparatien
"A
240-53.
(1963),
artisants Assyriens,"
Canby,
and
translation,
Russian),
from
documents
Cotton
the
to a bride's
15),
of
review
tion
blue,
MDP
lamites-Anzanites,
economic
Transcription,
no.
gious
(Paris, 1907); W. Hinz, "Zu den Zeughaustfelchen

in G. Wiessner, ed., Festschrift fur
aus Susa,"
Wilhelm Eilers (Wiesbaden, 1969), 89-96; I. B. Iussi
fov,
garments
In
motley dyed stuff, chiefly of wool, and with embroi

Scheil,
wool
contract,
symbolic
Trade
purple,
as
15)
in
were
Studies in Textile History

Burnham (Toronto, 1977).
in the First Millennium b.c.," Journal of Cuneiform

Studies 21 (1967), 236-38, 244-45; J. de Morgan,
MDP 8 (Paris, 1905), 57.
Recherches archologiques,
mentioned
(no.
riage
Spread
intervening
Overland
for example,
woven
East
and Finger Rings

on
"Essay
Oppenheim,
Dyes
goods
argument.
34. J. Boardman, Greek Gems

(London, 1970), no. 878.
35.
the
trial
Lamm,
(1978), 216-21;
in
(5th
mary
of
etc.,
of continuity
the
has
saddles
of Elephantine
Jews
the Fifth Century B.C.
and
Diyarbekirli,
Light on the Pazyryk Carpet," HALI1

however,
The
continuation
Seljuks,
N.
Turkestan,
Jour
205-16.
the
c. b.c.),
(no. 20), in addition
of
equestrians
of the
basis
fab
Himation,"
Robes
army;
Jacobsthal's
of pictures
(1938),
Achaemenid
East
P.
on Persian
Greek
Sybarite
Studies
carrying
Another hint
in
squares
the
on garments,
Pazyryk
woven
origin
origin
of Hellenic
lies
Women's
the
in
appear
Herodotus
her
shawl,
dowry
P.
new
Grelot,
robe
(Paris, 1972), document
3.106, 7.65 reports it worn by the Indians in Xerxes'
dyed
Documents
38.
101
motley
arameens
to
go
with
d'Egypte
Women's
goldman:
Diodorus
39.
Siculus
F.
17.70.3;
Greco-Persian
Per
Schmidt,
sepolis, vol. 2, pp. 77-78.

40.
The
R.
ture,
"La
Ghirshman,
in
1'Urartu,"
W.
B.
civilisation
cul
Locust's
with
or less
holes
are
tening
in
of various
well
with
frequently
in
attested
art.
Achaemenid
In
and
shapes
sizes
back
Asia
Western
A.
general,
L.
as
P.
Orfvrerie
Amandry,
over
4,000
bracteates
gold
(R.
und
skythischer
well
'grco-perse',"
as
dead
illustrate
how
Aus
bracteates
travagant
such
as
the
of booty
list
Sargon's
from
were
his
nary
indoor
wear
men's
the
tions
as
the
from
Greek
Boardman,
In
the
3.3.17
If in
made
campagne de Saigon (Paris, 1912); D. D.

Luckenbill, Ancient Records of Assyria and Babylo
nia, vol. 2 (Chicago, 1927), 97. 2 Sam. 1:24 probably
man
times,
the
Northern
de
huitime
refers
to bracteates
on
describe
gold
otus
9.80
ing
Persian
41.
E.
and
Pfuhl
H.
from
late
6th
b.c.,
the
latter
der
Datierung
d.,
Armagan,
1974), 967-69.
42.
The
39,
Herod
bracteates
style
Achaemenid
of the
last
relief
aus
and
E.
"Wall
Vth
Paintings
International
from
the
Congress
vol.
J. Boardman,
(London,
Greek
the
Period
of Iranian
Gems
Persian
tunic
the
iden
women"
Journal
5.88 men
without
as
not
pins,
964.
Curtius
Ru
fashion"
"womanly
the
II (from which hung his dag

dames
of
wore
Provinces
much
Textile
girdle,
rather
fabricated
Wild,
Roman
a golden
but
metal,
thread
J. P.
see
no.
Quintus
a.d.,
century
of gold
M.
A.
"The
Richter,
Gems,"
dress
Die
from
Kunst
flexible
in
as
Ro
in
Manufacture
(Cambridge,
1970),
Late
'Achaemenian'
Hesperia,
or
8 (Athens,
suppl.
the
des
and
and
Finger
Etruscans
Greeks,
and
vol.
Romans,
876,
879,
Antike
903;
vol.
Sammlungen,
Kulturbesitz
2,
in
Gemmen
Staatliche
deut
Museen
Berlin
Antikenabteilung.
(Munich, 1969), no. 191; idem, vol. 2, Staatliche

Munzsammlung
Munich, pt. 1 (Munich, 1968), no.
249-b.
49.
On
Achaemenid
and
scription
statue
de
known
Documents,
as
shoes,
in M.
Comment,"
Darius
(1972), 242-43.
the
le
D.
dcouverte
grand
A type of women's
"Persian
document
et al.,
"Une
Suse,"
JA
leather shoe was

viz.
slipper,"
"De
Stronach,
Kervan,
P.
Grelot,
48.
50. The Ashmolean

figurine, Culican,
"Ampul
lae," fig. 3, illustrates the braided queue worn with
the Persian Robe. Gold ribbon, G. S. Korres,
at Gordion,"
Art
nos.
Preussischer
2 (Ankara,
Ar
chaeology (Tehran, 1972), 357-59. H. C. Butler, Sar

dis, vol. 1, pt. 1 (Leyden, 1922), p. 140, fig. 156.
44.
if not
of Aeschylus,"
Gems,
Persian
was
of the
Gems,
in
Daskyleion,"
F. Sarre,
Persian
G.
schen
Akurgal,
alten Persien (Berlin, 1922), 18-19; Persian elements

in the Harpy relief, A. Moortgat, Hellas und die Kunst
der Achaemeniden,
MAG 2.1 (Leipzig, 1926), 16.
43. R. S. Young, "Gordion, Preliminary Report
1953," AJA 59 (1955), pp. 9-10, fig. 17; M. Mellink,
in
and
(137)
by
ordi
(London, 1968), nos. 503, 508, 510; Boardman, Greek
of the
quarter
by
Mansel,
sphere,
and
the
for techniques.
Gems
ostgriechischen
favored
Grabstelen
Mlanges
cultural
the
"volumi
differently
women"
a linen
Greek
1st
'Graeco-Persian'
1977), no. 4, pi. 2. Vari
to
it
48.
decorat
the
1949), p. 34. nos. 3, 6; G. M. A. Richter, Engraved
Die
Mbius,
dated
"Zur
clothes,
silver
vol. 1 (Mainz,
century
ously
M.
and
does
tents?
Grabreliefs,
5th
women's
as
in
essentially
worn
chiton,
fact
cord
embroidery
relation
. ..
describes
suspect
Une
Thureau-Dangin,
et
Ionia-Caria.
47.
ger).
robing
resembling,
'Persae'
golden girdle of Darius
campaign
Seals
48 (1928). Herodotus
Studies
46.
fus
Greek
the
Stamp
rather
are
"closely
dress
on
set
but
of
robe
"Notes
la
garments
F.
or
grotesque,
with,
(1969),
orientale'
31. A. S. F. Gow
women's
which
a little
decorated
Urartu
bracteates
Persian
chitons
of
gold,
with
pri
Greek'
VDI
'grecque
"Pyramidal
look
(143);
skull cap from Sinjavka (. H. Minns, Scythians and

Greeks [New York, 1971 reprint], p. 58, fig. 84).
contains
the
of Hellenic
(V. Sarianidi, The Golden Hoard of Bactria

[New York, 1985]), as earlier guessed from less ex
clothes,
a mag
artists
of 'East
question
Iran 8 (1970),
Ionic
tical
used
nomad
when
AntK 14 (1971), 90-106.
nous
Persian
Grabanlagen,"
extensively
"The
glyptique
Empire,"
identified
Praehistorische
Zeitschrift 47 [1972], 76-77; V. N.
Nomads
Basilov,
of Eurasia [Los Angeles, 1989], 24
26) and the Russo-Afghan excavations of the Tillya
tepe
are
pieces
results
Per
of Greek
question
art" (in Russian),
f. Boardman,
Persian
An
"Neue
idem,
45.
Oppenheim,
Rolle,
sakischer
"La
120;
tike Kunst 1 (1958), 9-23. The recent find of the

"Gold Man" buried at Issyk, his robing covered with
grabungen
the
tiny
the
b.c.,
century
and 'Greco-Persian'
for fas
achmnide,"
of
revelation
4th
the
"The Golden Garments of the Gods," JNES 8 (1949),

172-93;
to
answer
and
"Greeks
Starr,
cit
involved,
problems
G.
marily of Anatolian origin were influenced by both

sides"is
basically that of . M. Nikulina, who
places the majority of the gems in the first half of
supplied
loops
the
C.
authorship"these
nificent
in Honour of S. H. Taqizadeh
(London,
85-88.
1962),
Thin bits of gold and silver (bracteates, L. brat
teae, bracteis) usually mold-pressed, solid or with
designs,
his
67-75;
or Persian
Leg.
and
gems
sources,
major
sians,"
et
achmnide
d.,
Henning,
Persian
Studies
cutout
the
ing
to
contributions
Urartaean
Robes
"Chrysoys
'desmos'
tes
komes
ek
poteidaias,"
Ar
chailogike ephemeris 99. 1960 (Athens, 1965), 119

21. A spiral gold binding possibly for a queue, found
Rings
1970), 309. A good summary review of the

102
Goldman:
at
pre-Achaemenid
liminary
Report
E.
Marlik,
on
Marlik
O.
Boardman,
52.
This
Greek
Gems,
conflation
no.
is drawn
Negahban,
Excavations
Pre
(Tehran,
1964), p. 21, fig. 87.

51.
Women's
861.
from
the
versions
Arzu),
of the
and
from
of the
responses
the
page
Vaspuhr
(Xos
laid
down
attributes
requisite
by Chosroe (J. M. Unvala, "King Husrav and His

Boy" [Paris, n.d.], par. 96; T. Nldeke, Geschichte
der
Perser
arabischen
und
Araber
Chronik
zur
des
Zeit
Sasaniden
al-Tabari
[Leiden,
aus
der
H.
326-27;
Histoire
Zotenberg,
rois
des
des
Perses
par al-Thacalibi
[Paris, 1900], 710-11). See also F.
Vahman, "A Beautiful Girl," in Papers in Honour of
Professor Mary Boyce, Actlr 25, ser. 2, vol. 11 (Lei
den,
description
of Ardvi Suna, Anahita/Anaitis

given in the Zend
Aban
the
Yasht
5
French and English
Avesta,
(using
translations of A. H. Anquetil-Duperron
[1771] and
J. Darmesteter [1882]), from the Pahlavi and Arabic
Robes
1985),
beautiful
for the
665-73,
woman
53. S. I. Khodzhash,
Erebuni:
Oganesian,
VIII-VI
v.
do
n..
attributes
physical
in pre-Islamic
N. S. Trukhtanva,
Pamiatnik
urart.
54.
G.
A.
Koshelenko,
ed.,
i Srednei
1979],
and K. L.
zodchestva
Monument
(Erebuni:
building, 8th-6th c. B.C.) (Moscow,

43, fig. 126.
darstva Kavakaza
394, 429.
of the
Persia.
of
Drevneishie
Azii
Urartu
1969), pp. 142
(Moscow,
gosu
1985),

AChaeMenId Women Costume

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Bulletin of the Asia Institute, a Non-Profit Corporation

Women's Robes: The Achaemenid Era

Sisters they, who casting for their father's land,

lengths of cloth draped around the

some bone and metal

caftan and long tunic of the type worn by Elam

(fig. 1 ) and the tailored

of the Oxus; a number

sketch of the major

men wore two basic

and Medes, as well as

has been recognized

porting an incense bowl on her head, recovered

Given that the Persian

the skirt is rather some sort of shirred under

owed little, if anything,

open in front. Thus,

long robe opens in the front, its loose,

strips of laddering on the front lower section as

But any possible

first apthe legs on

draping is without detail, either due to the art

As true in other regions and times of the an

the robe is in doubt, this miniature

on finger ring. After Dalton,

Fig. 12. Limestone

' Ao\ *>'

finally, deno more than a retailed elsewhere,

At least that much is shown clearly in the

to serve future alien dressmakers,

of the Oxus, conveniently

The full sleeves drop

from tomb near

nos. 103, 104)

We can trace the woman's

and that perhaps a forg

figurines have been sug

Fig. 21. Scribed

The loose robing with deep sleeves, but with

under the tasseled waist cord, although the art

length of the skirt on either side does not, I sus

guards in the Susa brick reliefs (fig. 13), as well

in a variety of stylish drapings.

shot with gold.39 The early sixth-century

Before her, a handmaiden

drawn her large, bordered veil over a ser

and the flower-carrying

Fig. 27. Sard

Fig. 28. Greco-Persian

pi. 34, no.

Fig. 25. Chalcedony

They do not wear the veil, but its absence is not

of the former, the miniature

Under the open robe is a full-length shift or, in

Her heavy penannular

gown in tight folds across the buttocks with the

and subject matter.44 As the Greek esthetic con

the brow and then drawn down over the

that brought the

image of the Persian woman

queue in a series of knobs along its length (figs.

Greek robes (figs. 23, 30).46 But many of the

the unfettered figure on a quadruple

in the East. "But as to maidens