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Krakw
June - July 2016
No. 100
World Youth Day p.6
Jewish Krakw p.96
EURO 2016
p.64
No. 100 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
Contents
Feature
Krakw Saints & Holy Sites
Arrival & Transport
12
City Basics
18
20
Basic History
106
108
Jewish Ghetto
Nowa Huta
Further Afield
Wieliczka
112
Auschwitz
115
Tarnw 118
Culture & Events 22
Leisure
122
Restaurants
Shopping
126
Directory
132
Hotels
134
Polish Food
30
48
Cafs
58
Nightlife
62
70
Kazimierz Nightlife
Sightseeing
The Royal Route
Old Town
Wawel
Kazimierz
Podgrze
72
74
76
92
96
102
Maps & Index
140
143
144
147
148
149
150
Tram Map
Nowa Huta Map
City Map
City Centre Map
Street Index
Listings Index
Features Index
Sure, Pope Francis is bringing crowds this summer, but this is what the Jewish Culture Festival (p.26) looks like every year.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Micha Ramus
June - July 2016
Foreword
Sto lat, stary! This summer wed like to think that the big
news in town is us, with the entire city setting aside the
next two months to celebrate the landmark 100th issue of
Krakw In Your Pocket. First published in July of 1999, its
17 years on and holy pierogi were still around - something
we feel extremely proud and also fortunate to be able
to say (especially in the evolving world of publishing we
find ourselves in today). But just when were all ready to
shout it loud, light the fireworks and pop the champagne,
who comes along to steal our thunder but the Holy Father
himself! Thats right, in case you havent been following
Pope Francis Facebook page lately, hes hosting a little
shindig called World Youth Day in Krakw at the end of
July, and 2.5 million of his friends have confirmed theyre
going. And while weve dedicated this issues feature to
Catholic migration sites and saintly wonders (p.6), lets not
forget the fact that at the end of June the Jewish Culture
Festival (p.26) will also be welcoming thousands of outof-towners to its annual bash in Kazimierz. And of course
theres the matter of a month of football matches to watch
as the nations of Europe clash on every television in town
during EURO 2016 (p.64). Seriously, theres so much going
on this summer that weve decided to put our own selfaggrandising celebrations off until issue 101 (so we can
buy bigger rockets). No really, we do think we deserve our
moment, and we want to make it special, so stay tuned:
follow our us on FB (/krakowinyourpocket) and visit our
blog (blog.inyourpocket.com/poland) to keep an eye on
what were up to. Its gonna be fun.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
Circulation
20,000 copies published every two months
Editorial
Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Contributing Writer:
Janina Krzysiak; Production Manager: Maria Rulaff; Research
Manager: Anna bikowska; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Elbieta Kanafa, Magdalena Seroczyska, Anna bikowska;
Layout: Tom Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak;
Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise
stated; Cover Juan M. Sarabia Gutierrez
Sales & Circulation
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
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Copyright Notice & Editors Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
In the meantime, weve done our due diligence once again

(for the 100th time actually - did we mention that?) in
bringing you the most honest, up-to-date and informative
guide to Krakw on the market. So do us a solid and use it
to go have an amazing time in Krakw. We still are...
Krakw
June - July 2016
Krakw
June - July 2016
The 100th Issue
Krakw
Krakw
June - July 2016
June - July 2016
The 100th Issue
Krakw
June - July 2016
The 100th Issue
inyourpocket.com
No. 100 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
The 100th Issue
inyourpocket.com
No. 100 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
No. 100 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
No. 100 - 5z
Krakw
The 100th Issue
No. 100 - 5z
June - July 2016
The 100th Issue
inyourpocket.com
No. 100 - 5z
ON THE COVER
For the 100th issue we wanted to pay homage to our very first
edition, so we got some old and new friends together and had
some fun trying to recreate it. To see all the results, visit our blog blog.inyourpocket.com/poland. Thanks to everyone who participated!
4 Krakw In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Feature 1
Pilgrims en route to the Sanctuary of Divine Mercy in agiewniki. | Photo by agneskantaruk, AdobeStock
Howdy, Pilgrim
Krakw Saints & Holy Sites
Expecting to host 2.5 million Catholic pilgrims during late Julys World Youth Day
celebrations, Krakws spirituality is on full display this summer. Whether youre
here for those festivities or not, in this issues feature we catch you up on Krakw
and the surrounding regions most important religious sites, as well as the citys
most important spiritual figures, including Saint John Paul II.
Catholic Krakw
Considered by some to be the mainstay of European
Christianity, Poland is without a doubt one of the
continents most religious countries. While the official
statistics setting the percentage of Catholics at an almostunparalleled 95% are based on baptisms only and thus
inflated in relation to the number of practicing Christians
(which is falling), a Sunday stroll past any church will find
it absolutely packed and quickly dispel any notion that
religion might be on its way out locally. With the origins
of the Polish state firmly tied to the Church - the birth of
Poland equates with the baptism of Mieszko I in 966 Christianity has officially functioned as part of the Polish
identity for 1050 years. Perhaps most significantly, it served
as a major unifying power and avenue for subtle resistance
during communism, when state-sanctioned atheism was
the official way of the land. Polands pride and glory is still
the beloved Pope John Paul II, who helped to bring about
the Solidarity movement and the eventual toppling of the
communist regime.
While voices criticising the unprogressive and restrictive
nature of the Church and the mixing of religion and
politics in Poland are getting louder lately, particularly
among the youth, the number of young Poles still very
much attached to tradition and religious ritual might
surprise visitors from the West. This summers World Youth
Day mega-bash (July 26-31) will draw tens of thousands
of pilgrims from around the country - plus hundreds
of thousands more from around the world - eager to
worship, pray, and celebrate their faith in an international
community of their peers. Culminating in a mass lead by
Pope Francis, it will be one of the largest events that the
city of Krakw has ever seen, rivaled only by Pope John
Paul IIs visit in 2002.
As the hometown of John Paul II - who founded World
Youth Day by inviting Catholic youth to the Vatican in
1984 and 1985 - the late-July celebrations will in large
part focus on his teachings and personal legacy in Krakw,
where he rose from humble beginnings as Karol Wojtya
- a boy from nearby Wadowice - to become the first
non-Italian pontiff in over 400 years. Canonised in 2014,
the presence of the late Pope still looms large locally,
and there are literally dozens of pilgrimage sites directly
related to his life all over Krakw and the surrounding
region. JPII, however, is only the most recent in a long
line of Krakw saints who continue to contribute to the
rich spiritual fabric of the city. Known as the City of Saints,
read more about the most remarkable of these religious
icons on page 10.
IN KRAKW
BISHOPS PALACE
The second largest palace in Krakw (after Wawel), this
has been the residence of Krakws bishops since the 14th
century. Today the Palace is most famous for having been
the residence of Cardinal Karol Wojtya from 1958 to 1978,
before he became Pope John Paul II. During his visits to
Krakw as Pope he would often make appearances in the
papal window to address the crowds of his followers
below; an image of the Pope now fills the window (making
it easy for tourists to identify) and you can be sure the area
will be festooned with flowers and candles. The building
itself is off-limits, but the courtyard is open to tourists where
youll find an exhibit on the life of the Pope and the first
monument of the former pontiff, erected in 1980.QB4, ul.
Franciszkaska 3. Courtyard open 09:00 - 18:00.
SKAKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY
This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most
important religious sites in Poland. It was here that the
Bishop of Krakw, Stanisaw of Szczepanw, was beheaded
on the order of King Bolesaw II; soon after, the king was
exiled and the monarchy fell under a curse. To appease the
spirit of the wronged bishop, the royal family rebuilt this
church and made annual pilgrimages here from Wawel to
atone for the murder - a tradition which continues annually
each May 8th. Stanisaw was canonised in 1253, becoming
the patron saint not only of Krakw, but of Poland. Since 1472
a monastic order of Pauline Fathers has resided at Skaka, and
in the 18th century the church received a Baroque refurb,
which endures to this day. Inside an altar marks the place
where St. Stanisaw was killed and includes the wood stump
upon which he is said to have been quartered. The pool
where his remains were discarded stands outside the church,
elegantly adorned with a 17th century sculpture of the saint,
and the waters bubbling out its fountain are said to have
healing properties. In 2008, the controversial Three Millennia
Altar was built in the courtyard of the church, which features
four-metre monuments of St. Stanisaw, St. John Paul II, St.
Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St. Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot
Augustyn Kordecki. The crypt at Skaka is also a national
pantheon for distinguished Poles, and includes the remains
of writer Czesaw Miosz, painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and
Jacek Malczewski, among others. QC7, West end of ul.
Skaeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
Krakw is home to over 350 Roman Catholic churches,

many of which youll find information on throughout our
guide, but for pilgrims the obvious starting points have
to be St. Marys Basilica (p.78) on the market square, and
Wawel Cathedral (p.94) - the spiritual heart of the nation.
Beyond these, below weve identified what we believe to
be the most essential Catholic pilgrimage sites in Krakw
and southern Poland.
June - July 2016
Catholic Krakw
SANCTUARY OF DIVINE MERCY
Located in the southern suburbs of Krakw, the Sanctuary
of Divine Mercy includes a new basilica, and the 19thcentury convent of nun and mystic Faustyna Kowalska
(1905-1938), who saw a vision of Christ with red and
white shafts of light emanating from his heart. The
image - known as the Divine Mercy - is purported to
have miraculous healing properties, leading to Faustynas
eventual canonisation by Pope John Paul II in 2000. A big
proponent of the cult of Faustyna, during WWII the future
pope prayed at this site every day, and the enormous new,
boat-shaped basilica was built on his initiative between
1999 and 2002. Attached to the church is a tower offering
superb views of the city, and next door is a building called
the House of St. Faustyna displaying everyday objects
from her life (open 08:00 - 18:00). The small original church
inside the convent contains Faustynas relics and the site
receives over 2 million pilgrims a year. Getting there is
as easy as a 20min ride on trams 8 or 22; get off at the
Sanktuarium Boego Miosierdzia stop.Qul. w. Siostry
Faustyny 3 (agiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 252 33 11, www.
milosierdzie.pl. Basilica open 07:30 - 19:30; viewing
tower open 08:30 - 18:00; Eternal Adoration Chapel
open 24hrs although St. Faustynas tomb is only open
06:30 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 21:00. No visiting during
mass please.
JOHN PAUL II CENTRE
Established by current Archbishop of Krakw (and
close advisor to JPII) Cardinal Stanisaw Dziwisz to
commemorate the legacy of every Poles favourite
Pope, construction began on this new, ever-expanding
and evolving complex in 2008, and as of yet no final
completion date has been established. Located in
agiewniki, within convenient walking distance of the
Sanctuary of Divine Mercy, the ambitious Have No Fear!
John Paul II Centre (the official name of which refers to
his famous words during his inauguration speech) is
essentially a small city within the city aimed at hosting
conferences and accommodating pilgrims. Among the
facilities are a hotel and conference centre, rehabilitation
centre, meditation park (open), observation tower (open,
4/2z), Pilgrims House and cafe (open), Priests House, the
John Paul II Institute (open), and the John Paul II Museum
(under construction). At present the primary visitor
highlights are the Sanctuary of Blessed John Paul II - a
chapel with relics of the former pope, including a vial of
his blood and more (open 07:30-19:00, sanktuariumjp2.
pl); the John Paul II Institute - where visitors have the
chance to see a copy of the famous and controversial
Shroud of Turin (open 09:00 - 17:00, free admission); and
a branch of the Archdiocesan Museum currently holding
a temporary exhibit of souvenirs from the late popes
world travels (open Wed-Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00
- 15:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 7/4z). To get there
take tram 8 from Plac Wolnica in the direction of Borek
Facki, getting off at Sanktarium Boego Miosierdzia.
Qul. Totus Tuus 32 (agiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 429 64
71, www.janpawel2.pl.
AROUND MAOPOLSKA
KALWARIA ZEBRZYDOWSKA
The story behind the foundation of Polands first and

Europes largest pilgrimage park, is as incredulous as it
is unpronounceable. The story begins with the wife of
Mikoaj Zebrzydowski (1553-1620), Voivode (Governor) of
Krakw who had a vision of three burning crosses on the
very hill the park is now located upon. In recognition of
Mrs. Zebrzydowskis powers a series of over 40 Baroque
churches and chapels dedicated to several faiths were
built on the site at the beginning of the 17th century by
none other than her husband. Zebrzydowski modelled
his architectural and landscape park/pilgrimage complex
on the 1584 map of Jerusalem by Christian Kruik van
Adrichem; as such the sacral park is often called the Polish
Jerusalem. The crowning glory is the marvellous Baroque
St. Marys Basilica, the first building to be constructed
and the work of Giovanni Maria Bernardoni and Paolo
Baudarth. Completed in 1609 the church is part of a larger
complex including a Franciscan monastery and modest
accommodation for the thousands of pilgrims who flock
here every year, particularly for Holy Week leading up to
Easter during which an elaborate Passion Play is performed.
Surrounding the sanctuary are 5km of pilgrimage routes
over 6km of forest, with 42 chapels and churches en route.
A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999, connections
with the late John Paul II are manifold. The park was one
of his favourite places, and he visited the site on countless
occasions to relax during his life; an obligatory monument
to His Holiness stands outside the entrance.
About 35km (40-50mins by car) from Krakw, Kalwaria
Zebrzydowska is conveniently located directly on the
way to Wadowice (JPIIs hometown), which is just another
14km/20mins beyond the complex.
Visiting can be done individually at any time, but large groups
must notify the sanctuary of their arrival in advance. It is
perhaps more worthwhile for foreigners to visit with a guide;
several tours are available (ranging from a 45min tour of the
sanctuary, to 5hr tours of the pilgrimage routes) in English,
French, German and Italian, but all must be arranged at least
four days in advance (Polish tours require 1 day advance
notice). To organise a guided tour call 33 876 63 04. Tours
are free, but donations are welcome.Qul. Bernardyska
46, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, tel. (+48) 33 876 63 04, www.
kalwaria.eu. St. Marys Basilica open 06:00 - 21:00.
Catholic Krakw
WADOWICE
Located some 50km southwest of Krakw, the small town
of Wadowice features a population of around 20,000 and
is fairly unremarkable beyond the fact that it was here on
May 18, 1920 that the future Pope John Paul II was born,
an event thats turned the otherwise sleepy municipality
into a major place of pilgrimage, complete with tacky
tourist trappings. Everything of interest revolves around
the towns small central square, the appropriately named
Plac Jana Pawa II, including John Paul IIs Family House
- a museum dedicated to the great mans life and work in
the house he grew up in. Visiting is with a guide (available
in Polish, English, German, Italian, Spanish, French and
Russian), and its recommended that you book in advance.
Also on Wadowices square stands Virgin Marys Offertory
Minor Basilica, a rather splendid 15th century structure
renovated in the 18th and the site of Karol Wojtyas
baptism on June 20, 1920. Outside is a large monument to
the man, while inside youll find a chapel dedicated to him
as well as another likeness in the form of a rather bizarrelooking wooden statue.Qul. Kocielna 7, Wadowice, tel.
(+48) 33 823 35 55, www.domjp2.pl. JPIIs Family House
open 09:00 - 19:00; last entrance at 17:40. Tours in Polish
20/15z; other languages 30/22z. UN
JASNA GRA
Despite being 125km, and about 1hr 45mins away by
car, in Czstochowa, Jasna Gra bears inclusion here for
basically being Polands number one pilgrimage site.
Positioned atop a 340m limestone hill, this immaculate
14th century Pauline monastic complex is Polands national
shrine and home to its most sacred religious artefact
the Black Madonna. On display in an altar hung with
offerings presented by the more than 4 million pilgrims
from around the world that visit the site each year, and
cluttered with the discarded crutches of those who have
been healed, the Black Madonna is the source of endless
legends of miraculous deliverance. Its origin is shrouded in
mystery; while claimed to have been painted by St. Luke
the Evangelist, many scholars put its creation at a later date
and rather wide berth between the 5th and 14th centuries
with its geographical origins ranging from the Middle East
to Italy and Hungary. The Gothic Chapel of Our Lady of
Czstochowa which displays the icon is the oldest part of
the complex, dating from the 15th and 17th centuries. Its
tower, rebuilt in 1906, has the tallest spire in the country at
106m, and the entire monastic complex and surrounding
fortifications are a registered UNESCO World Heritage
Site. Czstochowa offers a wealth of religious and cultural
sites to tourists including the Match Production Museum,
whose proximity to the countrys most important religious
icon seems to confirm its miraculous powers of selfpreservation. Since 1717, an annual walking pilgrimage
has set out for Jasna Gra from all across the country; while
visited year round, the most popular pilgrimage periods are
the Day of the Assumption on August 15th and the Birth
of the Virgin on September 8th.Qul. O. A. Kordeckiego 2,
Czstochowa, tel. (+48) 34 365 38 88, www.jasnagora.
pl. Open 05:30 - 21:30. Admission free.
WORLD YOUTH DAY

From July 26-31 Krakw will
welcome millions of young
Catholic pilgrims as the host
of the 2016 World Youth Day.
Attended by Pope Francis, this
years theme is Blessed are the
merciful, for they shall obtain
mercy (Mt 5:7). A detailed
programme for the festivities
had not been disclosed or
finalised at press time, but below is a basic outline of
dates and events.
AT BONIA MEADOW (G/H-3):
Tue, July 26: Opening Mass performed by the
Archbishop of Krakw, Cardinal Stanisaw Dziwisz
Thu, July 28: Papal Welcome with Pope Francis

Fri, July 29: Stations of the Cross
AT CAMPUS MISERICORDIAE
(located between Krakw and Wieliczka):
Sat, July 30: Arrival of pilgrims on foot to the vigil site.
Evening vigil with the Holy Father in front of the Most
Holy Sacrament
Sunday, July 31: Closing ceremonies; final Mass by
Pope Francis and announcement of next WYD host
OTHER EVENTS
Catechesis: Preached in different languages by
bishops from around the world on Wednesday,
Thursday, and Friday, the topic of the teachings will
be closely related to this years theme. All catechesis
sessions include Eucharistic celebrations.
Youth Festival: A religious, artistic and cultural
program giving pilgrims the opportunity to take part in
concerts, exhibitions, workshops, sporting events, and
theatrical performances. Events will take place Tuesday
through Friday.
Vocations Centre: Religious congregations, Catholic
schools and universities, religious publishing houses,
missionary organisations, and other communities will
be presenting their work and giving advice to those
considering joining the clergy, a convent, or becoming
missionaries. The center will be open Tuesday through
Friday.
Meeting of Volunteers with Pope Francis: All those
who helped organise and run the huge event will be
invited to a special meeting with the Holy Father on
Sunday.
June - July 2016
City of Saints
ST. STANISAW
One of the main patron saints of Poland, St. Stanisaw of
Szczepanw served as the Bishop of Krakw between
1030 and 1079, under the reign of King Bolesaw II the
Bold (also known in turns as the Generous and the Cruel).
His successes included bringing papal legates to Poland
and reestablishing the Gniezno metropolitan see, but his
power and influence soon lead to direct conflict with the
monarch. The first issue was a dispute over a piece of land
which Stanisaw purchased from a fellow named Piotr,
who died soon thereafter; Piotrs family then claimed the
land for themselves, and the King ruled in their favor. There
was only one thing to do - in a spectacularly self-serving
display of supernatural power, Stanisaw resurrected
Piotr so that he could confirm that he had sold the land
to the Bishop, after which he was graciously returned to
the ground. The second, more serious feud involved the
Bishop criticising the Kings sexual promiscuity and brashly
excommunicating him from the Church. There were also
rumours that Stanisaw was involved in an opposition
movement intent on overthrowing the king; needless to
say, he was living dangerously. In response, the enraged
king accused him of treason and - when he failed to
show up to court - had him assassinated while he was
celebrating mass at Skaka Church; in some accounts
the King even stabbed the Bishop himself. According to
legend, Stanisaw was dismembered and thrown into
the pool in front of the Skaka, where - as four eagles
appeared to watch over the process - his mutilated parts
then proceeded to miraculously reassemble themselves,
but surprisingly stopped short of reanimation; presumably
he thought he could accomplish more as a martyr. And
he did, posthumously winning his spat with the King
when outrage over his death lead directly to Bolesaws
dethronement and banishment.
Aside from his gruesome death and the shady
resurrection tale of Piotr, Stanisaw had few other claims
to sainthood as far as mystic visions, healing powers,
and gory stigmata are concerned. What precipitated his
canonisation process was an analogous case occurring
in England, where Thomas Becket was granted the
status of martyr-saint. Becket was the Archbishop of
Canterbury, murdered in 1170 by followers of King Henry
II due to going excommunication-happy on Church
members who exceeded their privileges and pissing off
the monarch - something that rang a bell with Stans
followers. Stanisaws cult began to grow immediately
after his death, and he became an even more important
figure when Polands period of feudal fragmentation
began in 1138, which was viewed by many - including
the monarchy - as punishment for the martyrs death; it
was hoped, however, that Poland would reintegrate much
like his mutilated body - he even became known as the
patron of unification due to this post-mortem stunt. To
this day, yearly processions commemorating Stanisaws
assassination on May 8th march from Wawel Cathedral,
where his relics were moved in the 13th century, to the
Skaka Church in Kazimierz.
ST. JADWIGA
The most influential woman in Polish history, bar none,
Queen Jadwiga of Poland reigned as the countrys first
female monarch (formally holding the title of King) between
1384 and 1399. She became Queen at only ten years of age
following the death of her father, Louis the Great - King of
Hungary and Poland, who failed to sire any sons. Her reign
brought the restoration of the Krakw Academy (now
Jagiellonian University), which had stalled upon the death of
its founder - King Kazimierz III the Great, and a tightening of
Polish-Lithuanian relations with Jadwigas reluctant marriage
to the much-older Wadysaw-Jogaila at only twelve years
of age, which necessitated her to break off a long-standing
engagement to William of Habsburg - a decision often
deemed a sacrifice for the Polish nation. Perhaps most
significantly, the Queen was also highly devout, lending
much of her time and resources to charity work, founding
new churches, sponsoring hospitals, promoting the use
of the Polish language in church services and hymns, and
opening a faculty of theology at the Krakw Academy.
Privately, the monarch practiced mortification of the flesh
and attended daily mass. Her life was cut short at just 25 due
to complications from the birth of her first child - a daughter
- who died three weeks after being born; within a week
Jadwiga was also dead, most likely due to a postpartum
infection. Both the Queen and her infant daughter were laid
to rest in Wawel Cathedral, where they remain to this day.
St. Jadwigas tomb in Wawel Cathedral.
Though she was venerated soon after her death, it wasnt

until the papacy of Pope John Paul II that the idea to canonise
the most Christian queen (as proclaimed in a homily given
at her funeral) emerged. Her claims to sainthood were largely
based on legend and impossible to verify 600 years down the
line, but the appeal of having a saint among the Polish rulers
was large. The proof included a single instance of hearing
Christ speak while praying in front of a large crucifix, bringing
a drowned boy back to life by covering him with a mantle,
and a curious case of leaving a footprint in already-set plaster
while giving a poor stonemason a golden buckle from her
shoe (no, the Queen did not weigh 300 pounds, good guess
though). The 100% authentic footprint in question is still
visible and lovingly preserved on the facade of the Church of
the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary at ul. Karmelicka
19 (B-2) - find it on the corner of building to the right of the
entrance, just above ground-level. The Church decided on
the sufficiency of these claims and Queen Jadwiga added
another title to her name in 1997.
City of Saints
ST. FAUSTYNA
The only saint to be granted
the status of secretary of
Divine Mercy by Jesus (and
by the Church), St. Faustyna
Kowalska experienced frequent
and elaborate visions of Christ
throughout her short 33-year
life, writing down their content
in a diary, later published as
a 700-page tome titled Diary:
Divine Mercy in My Soul. The
mystic was born in the village of
Gogowiec, near d, in 1905,
and from the age of seven knew
that she wished to become a
nun. Her parents disapproved
vehemently, however, and
compelled her to work as a
housekeeper in order to help the familys financial situation.
Young Faustyna was leading a fairly typical life until age
nineteen, when - while at a dance party in a d park with
her sister (insert snark here) - she was stopped mid-twist
by a vision of the suffering Jesus. During feverish prayer
at the cathedral the next day, she came to understand
how vain and empty her life had been in the past few
years and received the divine command to move to
Warsaw and join a convent. This proved to be easier said
than done: most of the convents she visited turned her
away, and when she finally found one that did not - the
Congregation of the Sisters of Our Lady of Mercy - she
was told that she needed to hand over a dowry to join,
leading her to spend an additional year working and
saving up money. This successfully accomplished, she
spent the next thirteen years of her life dutifully moving
from city to city with the sisters (eventually winding
up in Krakw), working in the kitchen and garden, and
proving to have the closest relationship to the divine
among her convent: apart from recurrent visions and
conversations with God, she was said to experience
hidden stigmata, bilocation (being present in two places
at the same time), the ability to read peoples souls and
tell prophecies, tormentation by demons, and a mystical
marriage to Christ. Sadly, Faustyna also experienced
something decidedly more this-worldly: tuberculosis.
Initially unrecognised, the disease eventually caused
her to be admitted to the Infectious Diseases Hospital in
Krakws Prdnik district. The state of her health improved
substantially following treatment, which was assumed to
the result be a miracle. Unfortunately, the improvement
didnt stick, and Faustina perceived the illness to be a
punishment for her sins. She died in October of 1938
at the agiewniki convent, in the presence of two
fellow sisters. Her remains are kept in the Sanctuary
of Divine Mercy in agiewniki underneath a painting
all Poles have seen reproduced on countless postcards,
holy pictures, and various religious memorabilia: the
Divine Mercy image painted in 1944 by Adolf Hya in
accordance with one of Faustynas visions.
ST. JOHN PAUL II

Aside from the Vatican,
no city is more associated with the beloved
Pope John Paul II than
Krakw, which remained
his
spiritual
home
throughout his life. Born
as Karol Wojtya in the
small Maopolska town of
Wadowice, 50km southwest of Krakw, the man
who would be Pope began Polish Studies at Krakws
Jagiellonian University in 1938, where he was considered more of a sports fanatic and outdoor type than a
potential cleric. After a brief military training, Wojtya
spent World War II cutting stone at the Zakrzwek
quarry (G-5) by day, and studying theology by night;
after the war he resumed his studies until his ordination as a priest in 1946. Shortly after, Wojtya travelled to Rome to complete his doctorate in theology
where he also ministered to Polish immigrants and
refugees. Appointed as auxiliary bishop of Krakw in
1958 at the age of just 38, Polands youngest bishop
spent the next five years living at ul. Kanonicza 19,
now the citys Archdiocesan Museum (p.83). His
final Krakw home where he lived from 1963 until
his appointment as Pope was the Bishops Palace,
adjacent to St. Francis Basilica at ul. Franciszkaska
3 (B-4). He became a cardinal in 1967 and, in what
was viewed as a shocking appointment at the time,
in 1978 Wojtya was elected as the first non-Italian
pope in over 400 years.
Wojtyas nomination to Archbishop was initially
supported by the Communist Party, who saw him
as a benign character. However, it wasnt long
before he became a cause for concern. While never
directly appealing for rebellion, his speeches had
a discernable anti-Party subtext. In 1979, a year
after assuming the papacy, he returned to Poland
in what is commonly regarded as the pivotal
point in the downfall of the communist system.
Preaching 32 sermons across Poland in nine days,
the Pope created what has been called in some
circles a psychological earthquake, encouraging
Poles to have the courage to demand change.
His brief return offered hope and unity to the
Poles, lighting a flame that later exploded into the
Solidarity revolution, eventually toppling Polands
communist regime in the late 1980s. The secondlongest serving pontiff in modern history and one
of the most travelled world leaders ever, after his
passing on April 2, 2005, his case for sainthood was
fast-tracked by the Church and he was canonised by
Pope Francis on April 27th, 2014.
June - July 2016
11
Arrival & Transport
Krakw Airport | Photo by Emily Meadows
Krakw is well-connected regarding transport, with

a new airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently
modernised joint train and bus station on the edge
of the Old Town, and some of Polands better roads
connecting it to Katowice, Wrocaw and Berlin to
the west, Tarnw and Rzeszw to the east, Kielce and
Warsaw to the north and Budapest to the south. The
city also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use public
transportation system, which some visitors wont even
find necessary thanks to most attractions being within
easy walking distance of one another (not to mention
walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Krakw).
In this section youll find all you need to know about
getting in and out of Krakw, as well as around the city
with general ease.
BY PLANE
KRAKW AIRPORT
Located 17km west of the city centre, Krakw Airport
was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which
resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger
terminal in September 2015. The newly expanded and
modernised T1 passenger terminal now handles all
airport operations and conveniently connects directly to
the parking garage, the Hilton Garden Inn hotel next to
it, and the new Balice train station via a skywalk leading
straight into the terminal. Terminal 1 boasts the full
services and amenities of a modern airport, including
ATMs and currency exchange, tourist information,
restaurants and shops, new business lounges and VIP
services. Note that car rental is now located in the multi12 Krakw In Your Pocket
storey parking garage across from the terminal. Though

getting through check-in and security has always been
relatively speedy, visitors should be aware that there
will be increased security and volume at the airport this
summer due to the World Youth Day celebrations (July
26-31); give yourself some extra time.
GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The best way to get between the airport and
Krakws Old Town is by train. Trains run reliably
every 30mins between 04:00 and 23:00, departing from
platform 3 of Krakws train station (check rozklad-pkp.
pl for exact departure times). The journey time is about
20mins, and passengers are dropped off at a new Balice
station that is right near the airport terminal. Ticket
prices have actually been reduced to 8z, and can be
bought from ticket machines on the platform, or onboard the train.
In the unlikely event that you cant take the train,
public buses 292 (departs every 20mins) and 208
(once an hour) also make the journey, as does night
bus 902 (hourly departures beginning at 23:21). Bus is
the cheaper option, but the journey takes 35-45mins
depending on traffic. Buy a 4/2z single journey fare from
the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus.
Upon leaving Terminal 1, youll find the bus stop to your
right. To get to the airport, buses depart from the Krakw
Bus Station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) at the stop Dworzec
Gwny Wschd - located on the lower level of the bus
station, just east of the train station. Exact bus times can
be checked online at mpk.krakow.pl.
Arrival & Transport

AIRPORT TAXIS
The airport has its own Krakow Airport Taxi service with
vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea is
that this trusted service offers a set price range of 69-89z
from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business
and no night time price hikes. In reality, this service is
fleecing people by protecting its ridiculously high prices. If
you go more than 15km the price jumps from 69z to 89z,
so expect to pay 89z unless your hotel is en route on the
outskirts of the city centre. We advise confirming the fare
for the 25-35min journey beforehand, and trying to split
the cost with other travellers in the same situation.
Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport
range from only 35-70z depending on time of day, and
whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our
Taxi listings (p.16) and you should be able to negotiate a
daytime fare as low as 40z from the Old Town. Thats a huge
difference.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295
58 00, www.krakowairport.pl.
BY BUS
KRAKW BUS STATION
Although somewhat integrated into the Krakw Glwny
underground transportation centre, Krakw retains its
own separate bus station, located directly east of the
train platforms. The small building comprises two floors
with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside
the top floor of the bus station youll find the main ticket
windows (tickets can also be bought downstairs), a 24hour toilet, food vendors, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM
(bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00).
Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15z (depending on size) for
24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is
closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a
separate night time waiting room.
Those arriving to Krakw by bus will find taxis nearby on
both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to
public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct
way into the Old Town is through the underground Krakw
Gwny; once youre inside this labyrinth follow the clearly
marked signs for Stare Miasto or ul. Lubicz to exit in the
direction of the market square.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour
journey. For exact departure times check the website which
is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for
getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and
Niepoomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus
station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska
at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a
short walk away, follow signs to ul. Pawia into and out of
the shopping mall to get there.QE1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel.
(+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ground
floor icket office open 07:00 - 19:45. Level -1 ticket office
open 05:00 - 22:00.
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
KRAKW AIRPORT TRANSFER
As noted elsewhere, taxi service from the airport
to the Old Town is a bit of a racket. Skip it by using
this business class transport service ( call 662 905
905) that actually sticks to the promised 69z fare,
no matter where youre headed in the centre,
what time it is, or which day of the week. Enjoy
the thrill of being greeted at Arrivals by a welldressed and English-speaking chauffeur holding
a card with your name on it, before climbing
into a Mercedes and getting out at the door of
your destination. Larger vehicles are available for
groups, and in addition to Krakw and Katowice
airports, this outfit can arrange transport all
across PL, and also nearby capitals like Prague
and Berlin; daytrips to Auschwitz, Wieliczka and
Zakopane are also organised.Qtel. (+48) 662 90
59 05, www.krakowairporttransfer.pl.
KRAKOW SHUTTLE
Krakw and Katowice airport transfers at a good value,
as well as tours of hard to reach sights in and outside
the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). Call their 24hr infoline
for bookings and assistance.Qtel. (+48) 510 56 00 00,
www.krakowshuttle.com.
We offer transfers to and from

Cracow airport - 69PLN
www.krakowairporttransfer.pl
We also offer one-day trips

from Cracow to:
Auschwitz, Wieliczka Salt Mine,
Zakopane and the
Tatra Mountains
www.bestkrakowtours.pl
phone: +48 662 905 905
email: info@iqpd.pl
June - July 2016
13
Arrival & Transport

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
JAKDOJADE:
Despite the fact that Krakws
tram and bus network is
incredibly easy to use, even
for foreigners, well still
admit to being a bit put off
from using it at first; that
is until we discovered the
veritable skeleton key to
unlocking public transport:
the
krakow.jakdojade.pl
website and the jakdojade
app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool
for advance planning, but the app is more practical
for figuring out how to get from point A to B once
youre out in town and away from your computer.
Just type in your starting address (the app does this
automatically) and destination, or pin the locations
on a map; select the time you want to depart or
arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the
best method for you to get there. Finished at the
museum and want to head back to the hotel? This
app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on,
lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which
ticket to buy. Its brilliant and absolutely worth the
couple euros youll spend to download it. For those
who prefer to feel smarter than their phones, you
can also find timetables and network maps at mpk.
krakow.pl.
ITAXI:
If you dont have the patience
for public transport in the first
place, theres a nifty app for
ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl.
iTaxi allows you to compare
rates, arrival times, car models
and more, sending the cab of
your choice to your location
without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all,
the drivers register to create
a profile, and are heavily vetted so theres no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
UBER:
Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but
the company is investing heavily in Krakw specifically,
currently building its first-ever Regional Centre of
Excellence in PLs ancient capital, which will open in
2017 and serve as their European hub. If youre already
an Uber user, youll find that the alternative taxi service
- whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash,
no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage
across Krakw and all of Poland.
BY TRAIN
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project,
Krakw Gwny - the catch-all title of the citys vast
underground transportation centre - now offers easy
transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course
the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly
integrated, and along with modern conveniences like
waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, youll also find
plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including
cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more.
With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction,
its all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear
not - IYP will help you sort it out.
SERVICES
Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever
expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the
sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Krakw train station.
In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are
also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you
get lost and cant find your way out for several days. 24
ticket windows (some open 24hrs), plus several automated
ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit
the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled,
there are several waiting areas (including a place for firstclass ticket holders to quarantine themselves), tourist
information (open 06:00 - 22:00), currency exchange,
luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and
refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria
Krakowska shopping mall.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old
Town, Krakw Gwny is within easy walking distance of
most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis
largely unnecessary. If youre travelling further than you
care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number
19 in the direction of Borek Facki stops at Miodowa (E5) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by
following signs underground to Dworzec Gwny Tunel.
Further tram stops are located just outside the station
exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark
your train immediately head up rather than down from the
platform and youll find yourself on the top floor parking
garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away.
Arrival & Transport

If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering
into the Old Town is dreamy - youll find that getting out
of the station is now a bit of a challenge. There are at least
four exits and its wise to choose the correct one, based on
where you want to go. Following signs to ul. Pawia will lead
you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the
words of Admiral Ackbar: Its a traaap!). Signs to Dworzec
Autobusowy or ul. Bosacka will put you on the east side of
the transport complex (further from the market square).
If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, its
only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the
platforms to the old Magda tunnel, rather than the escalators
into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase
just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end
up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked
signs to Stare Miasto or ul. Lubicz to escape. Once outside,
cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria
Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow
the crowds through the underpass (D-2); bear right and enjoy
a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making
a left on Floriaska Street at the Barbican (D-2) and youre on
the Path of Kings to the market square. Youve arrived.
DEPARTING BY TRAIN
With the train station having been completely moved
underground, theres no longer a clear-cut main entrance,
but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly
underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use
those as your geographical targets and youll find your way;
you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.
Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all
around the train station. If you take the tram or bus to the
Dworzec Gowny stop you will end up somewhere near
the intersection of Basztowa/Lubicz and Pawia/Westerplatte
streets (D-2, there are several stops at this intersection); head
through the underpass (if necessary) and across the square in
front of Galeria Krakowska to the train platforms.
If you take the tram or bus to Dworzec Gwny Zachd (D1), enter Galeria Krakowska, descend one level and follow
the signs.
If you take the tram to Dworzec Gwny Tunel (E-1) you are
basically already in the underground transport centre - just
follow signs to the train platforms.
Finally, if you take a tram or bus to Dworzec Gwny
Wschd (E-1) navigate yourself through the roundabout
toward the buses and you will see the main entrance of the
new train station. All of these are perfectly good options, it
just depends where you are coming from.
Station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow
timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check
the timetables online at the Polish railways website rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English
language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular
train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also
be bought on board the train from the conductor, but
expect a surcharge.QE1, ul. Pawia 5a, tel. (+48) 22 39
19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.
pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance,
seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.
Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing
less frequently after that. Check timetables and network
maps online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English
functionality), and purchase tickets from the handy ticket
machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most
trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on
boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket
machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but most of
those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have
some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal
for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgrze. If
youre going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example),
we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80z.
1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend
family passes for 16.00z are also options. Note that those
over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages
must be proven with ID). ISIC and Euro26 Student cards are
valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your
ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket
immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small
machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines
handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and
are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously,
riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your
entire trip to Krakw. Note that during World Youth Days
(July 26-31) there are likely to be major changes to
transit routes and scheduling.
Find a map of Krakws tram system

on p.140-141.
June - July 2016
15
Arrival & Transport

BY CAR
TAXIS
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure it is clearly marked with a company
name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker
demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally
obliged to give you a printed receipt at journeys end
further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You
can expect a standard fare to be about 7z plus about 2.30z
per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares
increase by up to 50%.
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle,
first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when
driving), however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences technically invalid (though this has never
been a problem for anyone we know).
With that out of the way, how to get here? The A4 highway
runs right through Krakw connecting it to Berlin (via
Katowice, Opole and Wrocaw) to the west and Rzeszw to
the east (via Tarnw). While points east are currently tollfree, a 10z toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the
direction of Katowice, and again when you exit.
Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating
thanks to constant roadwork, one-way streets, streets that
require a permit to drive down, and high traffic volume;
parking is yet another challenge. Put it all together and
we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour of public
transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is
available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks,
and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass
from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins,
of course) or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and
place it on the drivers side of your dashboard. The cost of
street parking is 3z for the first hour, 3.50z for the second,
4.10z for the third, and after that back to 3z. Public parking
lots are also marked on the map in the back of this guide.
For those just arriving in town, taxis await you on the

rooftop parking lot of the train station, and outside the
airport where Krakw Airport Taxi has a monopoly on
service to the Old Town, charging an outrageous 69-89z for
the fare. We suggest you split it with like-minded travellers
in the same predicament.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of
contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that
necessitates a tip and thereby, if youre Polish, the driver
may not expect one. But double standards being what they
are, its anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We
leave it to you.
Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Krakws

taxi companies) is also now available in Poland, and has
in fact chosen Krakw as its European hub. Uber (uber.
com) offers one-tap, no-cash-necessary transport via their
popular worldwide mobile application. Those already
familiar with Uber will find Krakw well-covered by the
service.
BARBAKAN TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
ICAR
Qtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu.
MEGA TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
RADIO TAXI 919
Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Arrival & Transport

CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot
legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle
from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know
from borrowing their girlfriends car, or renting one for that
matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a
rental car.
Internationally trusted service
offering a range a vehicles
from two-door sedans to
luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station,
with a pick-up/drop-off point nearby at ul. Wita
Stwosza 4 (open 08:00 - 22:00). Also at the airport
(open 06:00 - 24:00; contact by phone possible after
working hours).QJ2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20
07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 13:00, or by prior arrangment.
A wide range of cars
including
BMWs,
Skodas, Kias and
Nissans. All cars are
equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those
who order through the Joka website.QD2, ul. Zacisze 7
(3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.joka.
com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. Outside of these hours by prior arrangement.
EUROPCAR
Offering both short and long term rental options with
9 different categories of car available for your individual
needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your
specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish
airports including Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 258 12 86.QJ4, ul.
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96,
www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Maluch - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly

unavailable to rent.
June - July 2016
17
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
TERRITORY
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of May 23, 2016
based on 1 = 4.38z
LONGEST RIVER
Krakw is split by the Vistula (Wisa) River. At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask.
HIGHEST POINT
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. By comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
POPULATION (2015)
Poland - 38,478,602
Warsaw - 1,735,442
Krakw - 761,873
d - 706,004
Wrocaw - 634,487
Pozna - 545,680
Gdask - 461,489
Katowice - 301,834
LOCAL TIME
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department
or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide
(page 132). If youve woken up to find youve got a raging
headache, a swollen foot you cant put weight on and
vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you
sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the
hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals;
a list of private clinics can also be found in the Directory
(p.132). Further help can be provided by embassies and
consulates, a list of which youll find on page 132.
McDonald's Big Mac

Snickers
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
9.20 z
1.69 z
23.99 z
2.99 z
9.00 z
2.69 z
15.50 z
4.44 z
3.80 z
2.10
0.39
5.48
0.68
2.05
0.61
3.54
1.01
0.87
LAW & ORDER

In general Krakw is far safer than most West European
cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if
youre in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your
trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around.
Perhaps the biggest danger in Krakw is posed by groups
of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided
and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should
be suspicious of young women who take an overactive
interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy
nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance
of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink
charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure its not in front of the
law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from
those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats whove
thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and
urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience
of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so
dont push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a
trip to Krakws premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which
literally translates as Entertainment Street), where you can
expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company
of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine
(credit cards not accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see p.15) and, silly as
it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which
doesnt have or respect jaywalking laws, youll be surprised
to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing
City Basics
waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this
little rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra Miejska)
will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine for crossing a road
at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine when
the walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt by
being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and
your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the
fine on the spot.
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional
restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will often
provide better value than the banks in your home country
or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of
kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites.
Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a
list of kantors in Krakw that wont rip you off, see p.132.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland and especially Krakw have
been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain
than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices
for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain
comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket
to the cinema typically costs 15-25z, while admission to
most museums costs around 5-15z.
WATER
Although over the past few years the city has been on an
official campaign to convince people that Krakws water
passes all the tests and is safe to drink, locals will still look
at you like youre taking your life into your own hands if
you drink from the tap. Despite the official endorsement,
and our own personal belief that the tap water is perfectly
potable, hypochondriacs and others with a quivering
constitution may want to avoid drinking it; indeed, the
antique plumbing in some buildings can still affect the
water quality, so if you have any doubts we suggest you
play it safe and just drink bottled water, which is widely
available and inexpensive. Inexpensive unless youre in a
restaurant, that is. Tourists from countries where the right
to drink water is a guaranteed freedom may be surprised to
find that water is not complimentary in Polish restaurants;
in fact its downright expensive and comes in a tiny glass
that will barely wet your thirst. By comparison, beer is a
much better value as you get more than twice as much
for only a couple zoty more; such is Polands drinking
problem. If youre still set on drinking water with your meal,
be prepared to declare a preference between gazowana
(carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water).
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Krakw and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
sounds like on in the French bon

sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases

Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh)

(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
June - July 2016
19
Basic History
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves
that there were settlements
in the Krakw area as early as
the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill
dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
citys founding to Krakus, the
mythical ruler who vanquished
the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds
named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in
the Podgrze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date
the settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly later in the
8th century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as
the Vistulans. By 966, the date of the first written record
of the citys name, Krakw had already grown into a busy
commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the
Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule
before being incorporated into the principality of the
Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom
of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own
bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Krakw became the
capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming
the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was marked
by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241
when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and
1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was
surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers
and gates which would be modernised over the next few
centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz which were closely connected with and would later be
incorporated into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and
sciences, in 1364 he founded the Krakw Academy, now
known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest
institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity
continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello
dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its golden
age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive
new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks,
and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance
architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring
times the citys fortunes began to turn with the death
of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the
throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Krakws
importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund IIIs
decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596;
however Krakw maintained its role as the official site of
royal coronations and burials.
Woodcut of Krakw from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the

Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black
Death that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th
century, Poland passed the worlds second democratic
constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only
days later the countrys more militarised and expansionistminded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded
and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on
the weakened country; a second partition transpired
twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputation as a
bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794,
Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated
his famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it
eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into
the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was
partitioned a third time (1795) and Krakw became part
of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where
they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that
imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and
as a result Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism,
culture and art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city
was also modernised during this time with running water,
electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being
installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th
century.
View of Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
Basic History
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was
besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to
flee the city. Krakw became the first Polish city liberated
from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned
revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed
the city in advance of the wars end. The Treaty of
Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish
state in over a century, however twenty years later in
September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Krakw,
setting up command of their General Government (the
Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be
purified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel
Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University
were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps
in what is known as Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish
population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto
in the Podgrze district, with the Liban and Paszw
work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish
ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000
and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated
on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the
city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive
almost completely intact.
Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation

began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around
the countrys largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an
attempt to weaken Krakws intellectual and artistic
heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five
years of communism followed, including a year and a
half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent
trade union gathered enough momentum to force free
elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the first
post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the
first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year
Krakws archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first
non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation,
today Krakw is arguably Polands most important
historical and cultural artefact. In 2015 the city was visited
by over 10 million tourists.
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
966: First written record of the city
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: First royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
Wadysaw the Short
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of
the Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski defeats the Ottoman
Empire in the Battle of Vienna, saving Christian
Europe
1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
August III
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussian army captures Krakw after the failed
Kociuszko Uprising
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgrze
1942: Paszw concentration camp established in
Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz
added to the UNESCO World Heritage List;
Karol Wojtya inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Free elections in PL; Communist regime
crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Krakw is the first Polish city to be named
European Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to
participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away
2010: 96 Polish delegates die in a plane crash
near Smolesk, Russia, including President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria, who are
controversially buried in the Wawel Royal Crypts
2013: Krakw is designated UNESCO City of
Literature
2016: Krakw hosts Catholic World Youth Day
June - July 2016
21
Culture & Events
Ulica 29 Street Art - 29th International Festival of Street Theatres | Photo: Darek Zo
OPERA SUMMER FESTIVAL
Photo by Ryszard Kornecki
09.06 - 01.07 KRAKW OPERA SUMMER

FESTIVAL
This is the twentieth anniversary edition of the festival

organised by the Krakw Opera, and it will kick off with
Richard Wagners Tannhuser, featuring Tomasz Kuk
and Janusz Ratajczak, with performances on June 9th,
10th, and 12th. Music lovers will also have the chance
to experience Verdis Il trovatore (June 17th and 19th),
performed in the Wawel Castle courtyard; Puccinis
Madame Butterfly (June 23rd), Tosca (June 24th), and
La bohme (June 26th); a ballet show titled simply
Emotions (June 20th); Arias of World Operas (June
21st), a concert of the worlds most popular operatic
hits; and the Operetta My Love...! closing show (June
30th and July 1st).QE2, Krakw Opera, ul. Lubicz 48,
tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, Tickets 30-130z. Available
at the Krakw Opera box office (open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 2 hours before the evening performance).
ART GALLERIES
BUNKIER SZTUKI
QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52,
www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 12/6z, family ticket 20z.
GALERIA PRZY SAWKOWSKIEJ
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 12, tel. (+48) 500 51 08 89. Open
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00; Sun hours vary - call to
confirm. Admission free.
INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE
QC3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.
mck.krakow.pl. Gallery open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission to
the gallery 10/6z, family ticket 14z. Tue, Wed between
11:00 and 12:00 admission 1z.
PALACE OF THE ARTS
QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.
palac-sztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/5z. N
CINEMAS
ARS CINEMAQC3, ul. w. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12
421 41 99, www.ars.pl. Box office open 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 10-20z.
Culture & Events

CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZQJ3, ul.
Podgrska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.
pl. Box office open 10:00 - 22:30. Tickets 17-33z.
IMAX KRAKWQL2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290
90 90, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 17-35z.
KINO POD BARANAMIQC3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel.

(+48) 12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl. Box
office open 45 minutes before the first showtime until 15
minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 11.90-22z. N
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
01.07 - 05.07 SINFONIETTA FESTIVAL
Sinfonietta Cracovia is kicking their repertoire up a notch

this July with five days of special concerts. The festival
begins with the Souvenir de Florence concert featuring
violinist and conductor Dmitry Sitkovetsky and music
by Shchedrin, Tchaikovsky, and Chopin (July 1st at 19:30
in the Krakw Philharmonic). July 2nd continues with a
performance of Mendelssohn-Bartholdys String Octet,
Op.20, by Sitkovetsky and Sinfonietta chamber musicians
(19:00 at the Polish Art Gallery in the Cloth Hall), and July 3rd
brings the Music of Nations Chamber Clubbing concert
at the Dworek Biaoprdnicki Cultural Centre (17:00). On
July 4th its Stravinskys The Soldiers Tale at the Manggha
Museum (19:30), and the grand finale on July 5th will be a
friendly competition of sorts between the Sinfonietta and
Capella Cracoviensis (19:30 at the Krakw Philharmonic).
EXHIBITIONS
20.05 - 07.08 SEARCHING FOR ARCADIA
The Gallery of 19th-century Polish Art in the Cloth Hall is hosting

an exhibition of twelve paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki, a
painter known for his monumental Academic works depicting
idyllic, sunny scenes of ancient Greece and Rome, as well as
somewhat darker works inspired by the New Testament.QC3,
19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Cloth Hall, Rynek Gwny
3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, Tickets 16/9z, family ticket 26z.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
June - July 2016
23
Culture & Events

09.04 - 14.08 YOUNG-JAE LEE - BOWLS
This exhibition at Mangghas Europe - Far East Gallery

demonstrates the extent of Young-Jae Lees prolificness
as an artist: a staggering 500+ ceramic bowls (including
49 large ones), each one unique and eye-catching, will
be laid out in the exhibition space.QB6, Manggha, ul.
Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, Admission
20/15z, family ticket 35z. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon.
22.04 - 02.10 MEDICINE IN ART
This is another exhibition in MOCAKs series presenting

mundane, everyday topics from an artistic point of view.
Medicine in Art takes a look at mortality, pain, therapy, the
psychology of illness, and ethical dilemmas surrounding
medical experiments.QK4, Museum of Contemporary
Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, Admission
10/5z, Tue free.
24.06 - 09.10 MARIA. MATER

MISERICORDIAE
Over 100 masterpieces dedicated to the Virgin Mary,

among them works by Donatello, Mantegna, and Vasari,
will be on display at the National Museum to supplement
this years World Youth Day festivities.QH3, National
Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433
55 00, Tickets 19/12z, family ticket 24z. Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
FESTIVALS
09.06 - 12.06 CRACOVIA CANTANS
Cracovia cantans - Krakw is singing through the vocal cords

of choirs from around Europe (plus places further afield, like
Israel and Singapore). Since 2010, over 175 ensembles from
27 countries have taken part. Each year, choirs compete in
eight categories for a cash prize and statuette of Golden
Polyhymnia, and its all free and open to the public.QD7,
St. Catherines Church, ul. Augustiaska 7 (entrance from
ul. Skaeczna).
Whats going on?

11.06 16:00 FESTIVAL OF COLOURS
The world might be becoming increasingly Westernised,

but - luckily - culture and customs still flow both ways,
and the Indian spring festival of colors and love, Holi,
seems to have found more than a few enthusiasts in many
European countries, including Poland. The date might be
wayyyy off, as the real Holi is traditionally celebrated in
March (sometimes February), but youve gotta make
adjustments for us Northern folk who only get a few
months of real warmth.QPolish Aviation Museum, Al.
Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00,
Admission free.
Culture & Events

THE GREAT DRAGONS
PARADE
01. 07.

04.06 - 05.06 THE GREAT DRAGONS

PARADE
OUTDOOR SHOW ON THE VISTULA RIVER

04.06. at 22:00, bend of the river beneath Wawel Castle
This light and sound spectacle will involve fireworks,
music, water curtains, and huge floating and hovering
dragons (up to 25m in length and 15m in height).
The majestic creatures will be animated by Groteska
Theatre actors situated on barges, and the whole affair
is one of the most popular, unique and exciting events
of the season; dont miss it.
DRAGON PARADE
05.06., ul. Grodzka toward the Main Square
Enjoy the lively and colourful throng of dragons and
cheer for your favourite one. Last year over thirty artistic
creations animated by over one thousand children
paraded the streets.
FAMILY PICNIC
04.06. and 05.06., Vistula River boulevards near the
Dragons Den (B-5)
These two day-long events will include contests, shows
and performances, music and dance troupes, and
outdoor family fun in general.
Souvenir de Florence
Krakw Philharmonic Hall
7:30pm
Photo by Anna Kaczmarz
If you know anything about Krakw, you know the legend

of the Wawel dragon, a dreadful beast that devoured all
the livestock and terrorised the city until a brave tailor fed
it sulphur covered in sheepskin, causing the monster to
drink and drink and drink until it burst into a million pieces.
Though similar legends abound (exchange sulphur for
lime and a tailor for a butcher, and youve got yourself the
tale of the Brno dragon), Poles are very attached to their
Smok Wawelski, which is why this festival caught on so
well (hey, fourteen years means youre doing something
right!). The main attraction is Saturday nights extravaganza
on the river, during which flying dragons battle it out to
a backdrop of lasers, fireworks and music for a crowd of
hundreds. Its free, and have to see it if youre in town; we
strongly urge you to get there early, however, so you can
stake out a comfortable spot to see this spectacle. There
are more events planned over the course of the two days
of course, and heres the full programme:
DMITRY SITKOVETSKY
02. 07.
SITKOVETSKYS
CHAMBER MUSIC
03. 07.
CLASSICAL
CLUBBING
04. 07.
STRAVINSKY
THE SOLDIERS TALE
05. 07.
FROM BACH
TO GLASS
Sukiennce / Cloth Hall

7:30pm
Dworek Biaoprdnicki
5:00pm
Manggha Museum
7:30pm
concert for two

orchestras and soprano
Krakw Philharmonic Hall
7:30pm
Festival of the Orchestra of the Royal

City of Krakw Sinfonietta Cracovia
Director: Jurek Dyba
Tickets at:
Ticketpro.pl, Eventim.pl, InfoKrakw
www.sinfonietta.pl
June - July 2016
25
Culture & Events

INT. CULTURAL CENTRE
16.06 - 19.06 LIFE FESTIVAL OWICIM
The music festival was created to demonstrate that there is

more to the small city of Owicim than just the Auschwitz
concentration camp, and to create more positive connections
in the minds of visiting tourists. The festivals message is
peace, tolerance, and diversity, and its goal is combating
racism and antisemitism. This years line-up of stars includes
John Newman, Queen + Adam Lambert, Elton John, Ninet
Tayeb and Chris De Burgh.QTickets 98-288z. VIP ticket 640740z. Festival pass 282-447z. VIP pass 1050z. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
25.06 - 03.07 JEWISH CULTURE FESTIVAL

Photo by P. Mazur.
30.05 - 28.08 MAX ERNST. AN

ORNITHOLOGISTS DREAMS
German pioneer of Dadaism and Surrealism Max Ernst

developed an intense fascination with birds early on in
life, going as far as to convince himself that he had an
avian origin and developing an alter-ego called Loplop,
which often made appearances in his paintings. This
exhibition will explore the artists works through this
facet of his personality.QC3, International Cultural
Centre, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28
11, Admission 12/7z, family ticket 20z. Tue, Wed
between 11:00 and 12:00 admission 1z.
Despite the tragedy of the holocaust, Jewish culture

remains very big in Krakw. And for the 26th time, this
festival will give participants the opportunity to learn,
grow, and experience what Judaism and Semitic culture
is all about, both traditionally and contemporarily. There
will be concerts, film screenings, lectures, music/dance
workshops, and guided tours. Many of the guests are from
Israel or the United States, so quite a few of the events will
be hosted in English - make sure to check the website.
25.06 - 30.06 ORGAN MUSIC DAYS
This organ music festival has been around for a while started in 1966 in honor of Professor Bronisaw Rutkowski, a
renowned Polish organist, teacher, music critic, composer,
and conductor who died two years before, it now
celebrates its 50th anniversary. This years inaugural concert
takes place at the Krakw Philharmonic on June 25th at
18:00.QTickets 25-45z.
07.07 - 10.07 ULICA 29 STREET ART - 29TH

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF STREET
THEATRES
Exhibition
30.0528.08.2016
Max
Ernst
An Ornithologist's Dreams
International CulturalCentre Gallery
Rynek Gwny 25, Krakw
TuesdaySunday 11.00 a.m.7 p.m.
www.mck.krakow.pl
Started by Teatr KTO in 1988 (believe it or not, that makes

it one of the oldest events of this type in Central Europe),
ULICA Festival has become a yearly tradition in Krakw.
For four full days, international troupes will be performing
around town, on the Main Square, Rynek May, Plac
Szczepaskiego, and Rynek Pogrski, making missing
the action a virtual impossibility. This years somewhatuntimely theme - Polish Carnival - will shift the focus
towards both prominent and lesser-known Polish theatres,
but foreign guests will be showing their stuff as well; Tango
Sumo (France), Markelie (Spain), and Tac O Tac (France) are
among the invited groups. Get ready for stilts, acrobatics,
eccentric musical instruments, and eye-popping costumes.
FOOD & DRINK

18.05 - 31.08 PARSLEY MARKET
Eco food produced within 150 km of Krakw - pretty much

completely local, and sold by the farmers themselves. Fresh,
healthy, and perfect for summer. Dont let the name fool you,
there is wayyy more to this farmers market than just parsley.
The location is Plac Niepodlegoci (J-5).QAdmission free.
Open Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00 only.
Culture & Events

19.06, 17.07, 04.09, 02.10 ART & FOOD
BAZAR
The Art & Food Bazar means monthly meetings with great
food, organic products, wine, and fashion by local designers.
Open 11:00-17:00. Shop and enjoy!QC/D1, Stary Kleparz,
Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32.
26.06 11:00 NAJEDZENI FEST!
Najedzeni Fest! is a food festival series that takes place

four times a year, with a smattering of additional, smaller
events every now and then. The summery June edition will
be dedicated to picnics and alfresco eating - participants
are encouraged to bring blankets and baskets to be filled
with delicious food from the festivals ninety vendors,
then lounge around on the Vistula riverbank.QI4, Forum
Hotel, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, Admission free.
OPERA
16.07 18:00 THE METROPOLITAN OPERA:
LIVE IN HD - THE ELIXIR OF LOVE
Spend an evening at the Met without leaving Krakw: this

live HD streaming of Gaetano Donizettis comic opera The
Elixir of Love, conducted by Maurizio Benini, is part of an
ongoing project to popularise top-notch opera.QH3,
Kijw.Centrum, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00
33, Tickets 45z.
912.06.2016
INTERNATIONAL KRAKOW
CHOIR FESTIVAL
Cracovia
Cantans
Besides many concerts in
which will perform choirs
from around the world we would
like to invite you especially for choral
concerts series Lights and Singing
on 9th, 10th and 11th June (Thursday,
Friday and Saturday) at 7p.m.
in St. Catherine Church,
Admission
at7Augustiaska Street.
free
www.cracoviacantans.pl
ROCK & POP CONCERTS

20.06 20:00 KENNY G
Kenny G, with his smooth jazz and glorious hair, is coming to

Congress Centre to play his greatest hits and/or songs from
his newest album Brazilian Nights. One of the best-selling
artists of our time, the Seattle-born saxophonist has sold a
staggering 75 million records worldwide since his solo career
took off in the seventies.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre,
ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, Tickets 119-299z. Available at
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
26.06 20:00 PAT METHENY
Jazz legend Pat Metheny (winner of approximately a million

Grammys) is coming to Wrocaw with his new quartet for
2016, comprising drummer Antonio Snchez, pianist Gwilym
Simcock, and bassist Linda Oh. No Pat Metheny - Anna Maria
Jopek duo this time, sadly.QTickets 100-220z. Available at
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
02.07 18:00 BLACK SABBATH
Its the beginning of the end. Ozzy Osbourne, Tony Iommi,

and Geezer Butler are closing a nearly fifty-year chapter of
heavy metal history with their last tour ever, and you better
believe these old chaps are going out with a bang.QA/B7,
Tauron Arena Krakw, ul. Stanisawa Lema 7, Tickets
299-399z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
June - July 2016
27
Culture & Events

SPECIAL EVENTS
21.06 04:15 THE PODGRZE SUNRISE
Krakow Opera
Summer Festival
9.06.-1.07.2016
WAGNER VERDI PUCCINI
programme also includes:

premiere
R. Wagner
TANNHUSER
9, 10, 12.06.
G. Verdi
THE TROUBADOUR
Royal Castle on Wawel Hill
17, 19.06.
J. Brahms, P. Czajkowski
A. Prt, K. Penderecki
EMOTIONS
20.06.
music performance
WORLD OPERA
ARIAS
21.06.
music performance
OPERETTA
MY LOVE...!
Polish Gas Company in Krakow
30.06., 1.07.
www.opera.krakow.pl
Get up at an ungodly hour (or - better - spend the night

getting to know the Krakw clubbing scene) to get into
Midsummer spirit and watch the sun rise on the longest
day of the year. According to an easily verifiable legend,
on this day viewers on the Krakus Mound will see the run
rise directly over the Wanda Mound; roles reverse at sunset.
QK5, Krakus Mound, above ul. Maryewskiego.
24.06 - 26.06 ST. JOHNS FAIR
Celebrate the Midsummer of old at this proper Renaissance

fair, filled with traditional grub, displays of blacksmithery and
woodworking, historical reenactments, equestrian shows,
vendors selling hand-made jewellery, and workshops for
children.QEvent takes place at Bulwary Wilane.
25.06 - 26.06 MAOPOLSKA AIR PICNIC
The Maopolska Air Picnic means two days of spectacular

air stunts and acrobatics, historical military aircraft, food,
an amusement park, and just good outdoor fun in general
(hopefully there wont be torrential rain). This years star will
be one of the most famous WWII aircraft: the North American
P-51d Mustang. Bring a blanket and pair of binoculars and
make it a relaxing day out. The location is the Polish Aviation
Museum grounds at al. Jana Pawa II 39.QTickets 4-20z.
25.06 WIANKI
Its the weekend of the summer solstice - St. Johns Day

- in Krakw and as such, there is a full raft of free events
taking place around town. Krakws old town will feature
four separate stages with all-day-long live music, while
the boulevards below Wawel Castle will be alive with the
annual St. Johns Fair (Jarmark witojaski), as armoured
knights, maidens, musicians, and merchants in medieval
dress wander the riverbanks creating the atmosphere of a
Renaissance fair.
SPORT
18.07 TOUR DE POLOGNE
The seven-stage, 1000-something km bike race starts off

in Warsaw and ends in our lovely city. Stage seven, an
individual time trial, is a 25-km loop with the start/end
point on the Main Square, extending towards Wieliczka.
QC3, Main Market Square.
THEATRE
23.06 19:00 NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE HAMLET
The National Theatre brings the stage to the big screen

again with the showing of Shakespeares Hamlet, starring
Academy Award Winner Benedict Cumberbatch. As we all
know, the classic story of revenge, tragedy, and war takes
centerstage in this ageless production.QL1, Multikino, ul.
Dobrego Pasterza 128, tel. (+48) 12 298 46 24, Tickets
35/30z.
Culture & Events

LIVE MUSIC
25.05 - 31.07 KRAKOW FOLK SHOW
So youve seen the castle, strolled through the Main Square,

eaten yourself into a pierogi coma - but something seems
missing? All you need is a little Polish folk to wrap your
experience up. Head over to Tradycyja Restaurant to see
the most popular Polish folk dances like oberek, mazurek,
polonaise, kujawiak, and krakowiak (were in Krakw, after
all!) and enjoy the beautiful traditional costumes.QC3,
Tradycyja, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16,
Tickets 60z. Tickets with dinner included 120z. Available
at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 19:00) and at the venue before the concert begins. (+48)
602 85 09 00. 19:00 Every Wednesday & Saturday.
25.05 - 31.07 CHOPIN CONCERTS IN THE

LEGENDARY WIERZYNEK RESTAURANT
These special celebrations of Chopins musical legacy run

throughout the year and are performed by gifted members
of the Krakw Music Academy, many of whom are laureates
of international piano contests.QC3, Wierzynek, Rynek
Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, Tickets 60/40z, VIP
220z. Available at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana
2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00) and at the venue before the
concert begins. (+48) 602 85 09 00. Daily 19:00.
25.05 - 31.07 CLASSICAL AND FILM MUSIC

AT ST. PETER & PAULS CHURCH
A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the

breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Pauls. The event
begins at 20.00 every Mon, Tue and Thu and one can expect
to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and film music all
performed by the Cracow City Orchestra.QC4, Church of
Saints Peter & Paul, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63
65, Tickets 60/40z. Available at City Information Point
(ul. w. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00) and at the venue
before the concert begins. (+48) 602 85 09 00. 20:00
Every Mon, Tue, Thu.
Every Wednesday, Friday,

Saturday and Sunday
Time: 7. pm
04.07 - 28.07 ORGAN CONCERTS
A chance to hear a wonderful series of organ concerts by Maciej

Banek and Cyprian Jagieo in the breathtaking surroundings
of St. Peter & Pauls. The event begins at 16.30 every Monday,
Tuesday, and Thursday.QC4, Church of Saints Peter & Paul,
ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, Tickets 60/40z.
Available at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3; open
09:00 - 19:00) and at the venue before the concert begins.
(+48) 602 85 09 00. 16:30 Every Mon, Tue, Thu.
08.07 - 10.07 LONDON CONCERT CHOIR
One of Londons leading amateur choirs will be in Krakw

this July to perform a series of four concerts: Hymns to
the Virgin Mary at St. Annes Church on July 8th at 18:00
and at St. Marys Basilica on July 9th at 19:15; Jazz on a
Summer Evening at Collegium Maius on July 8th at 19:15,
and Summer Jazz within the cool depths of the Wieliczka
Salt Mine (highly recommended) on July 10th at 15:00.
QAdmission free.
June - July 2016
29
Restaurants
Receive the royal treatment while feasting like a king in the famous Wierzynek restaurant (p.56).
With the development of the market in Krakow the number

of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the citys
culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still
waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French
tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants
to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip,
so fear not, you wont have to eat tyres.
While our print guide carries a wide selection of Krakws
most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more
listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where
we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places
youve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in
brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses
on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can
expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!
SPLURGE
Wierzynek (p.56) is Krakws oldest and most upscale
restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind is Pod
Anioami (p.52), while the sophisticated wine lists and
seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (p.35) and Trzy Rybki
(p.39) are also both bankable for your best meal while in
town. Szara (p.38) - with locales on both the market square
and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints.
CHEAP
A Polish milk bar (p.52) is as cheap as youll eat anywhere
in your life, but for a bit more atmosphere try Czerwone
Korale (p.50). If youre not a fan of Polish food, Alebriche
(p.46) and Zazie Bistro (p.33) are both excellent values.
LADS
Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king
for pauper prices in Bierhalle (p.34) or Restauracja
Sukiennice (p.55), where the food spills off the edges of
the plate. To literally receive a bib with your food, order
the outstanding ribs at Rzenia (p.32). For bender fuel late
into the night or first thing in the morning, try Bulldog
Bar (p.63).
FAMILIES
Slowly but surely, more and more places in Krakw now
have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play
corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the
end of each listing. Nothing in town beats Pod Wawelem
(p.54), however, which has a huge rumpus room for kids
and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES
Krakw is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you
shouldnt have to search far for the perfect place. Make
a reservation in ZaKadka (p.33), Pod Nosem (p.54),
Bottiglieria 1881 (p.66), Aqua E Wino (p.40) or Bianca
(p.42) and let the atmosphere do the rest.
SPECIAL DIET
For vegans, vegetarians and health-conscious foodies,
the street of choice in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (A2), where youll find Sissi Organic Bistro (p.36), Karma
(p.59) and Pod Norenami (p.57); in Kazimierz head to Plac
Wolnica (D-7), home to Cafe Mynek (p.58) and Nova
Krova (p.57). For traditional Polish food thats assuredly
gluten-free, visit Pod Baranem (p.54).
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
B Outdoor seating
AMERICAN
GRANDE GRILL
Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek,
this fresher effort from the same team behind Krakws
most famous restaurant balances modern styling and
cuisine with its medieval setting. The year-round patio
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has
long been regarded as one of the best in town, and a stylish
indoor dining area, occasional rock/blues concerts, and live
sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit. The
menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all
expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you would
expect from the citys most established restaurateurs.
grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-91z). TUE
GBW
HARD ROCK CAFE
The international Hard Rock Cafe chain occupies some of
the citys most hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica
on Rynek Gwny. Inside youll find an absurdly large
number of staff members milling around amongst rock
memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns spectacles
to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends
T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over three
levels, stop by to enjoy an expertly mixed drink and a
juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once
wore.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 11:00 23:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. (20-90z). T6U
GBW
MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB
On first glance this club looks exclusive indeed, with
runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal,
modern monochromatic interior that looks more designed
for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef
patty (and vice versa). The new menu reveals a varied array
of refined options from salmon to shrimp, with a bigger
emphasis on choice steaks than burgers - the range of
which has been reduced to 8 options, but which remain
large enough so that when cut in half you actually have
what would pass for two burgers in most places. The
reasonable prices and random music playlist make this
June - July 2016
31
Restaurants
place a lot less pretentious than it first appears, however,
and its one we enjoy coming back to.QD3, ul. witego
Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www.moomoo.com.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-100z).
UGBSW
RZENIA - RIBS ON FIRE
This small meatery offers a concise menu of carnivore
cravings - tartar, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with
sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled
beers. Though that sounds like something youd find
written on the side of a food truck, this place has more
class than that with a red-flecked interior that looks could
pass for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch. Order the ribs (no,
really - order the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a
sawn-off section, and we guarantee youll be sucking the
bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best weve had in this
cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib (theyll provide
you with one) and give this a try.QD6, ul. Boego Ciaa
14, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (19-59z).
UVGSW
ASIAN
HURRY CURRY
Though the name suggests a takeaway window or food
truck, this surprising slow food franchise has been a hit in
Katowice and their Krakw locale features a large, open
and appealing interior with multiple terraces and a full
menu of Indian/Asian eats. Essentially an encyclopaedia
of world curries, choose from over 20 varieties varying in
spice quotient and country of origin, plus other signature
world dishes like Tom Yum and Beef Rendang, and beers
from Thailand, China and Japan. With so much menu to
explore and everything super affordable, multiple visits
are almost a given, and unlike most curry establishments,
rice and papadum actually come included with your meal.
QC3, ul. Szpitalna 9 (entrance from ul. w.Tomasza),
tel. (+48) 728 42 82 26, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-33z). T6UG
BSW
NINE KITCHEN
When stacked against its ample competition, this
modern sushi and Asian fusion restaurant has plenty
going for it. The menu is easily parsable rather than
overwhelming, with sound English translations, sharable
dishes for under 30z, and no less than 15 signature rolls
of their own creation. Making it all the more pleasing is
a relaxing atmosphere and some nifty design touches
including walls lined with birch tree trunks, Lost Army
wallpaper, and innovative light fixtures. Overall, the
prices are below-market, which isnt to say that you
wouldnt want to bring your business partners and dates
here, but rather - you should.QD6, ul. Miodowa 9, tel.
(+48) 536 70 57 06, www.ninekitchen.pl. Open 12:30
- 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:30 - 23:00. (9-45z). T6U
GSW
Restaurants
FRENCH
LA FONTAINE
The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at
La Fontaine, though the interior of rough hewn stone
walls and brick arches has a perfectly pleasing elegance
as well when theres a gale outside. Here delicious
French delicacies are served by a well-trained staff
who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out such wonderful dishes
as tournedos with potato casserole and a bearnaise,
wine, or roquefort sauce. Home to some of the citys
most outstanding cuisine and an excellent wine cellar,
its easy to understand why this veteran restaurant has
received so many awards and remains a mainstay of
the local restaurant scene after so many years.QC3,
ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (2569z). BXW
ZAKADKA - FOOD & WINE
Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka
footbridge in Podgrze, this thoroughly classy Frenchstyle bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern
elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and below market
prices to make it outrageously popular. The new menu
changes seasonally and tackles French delicacies and
regional Polish dishes with equal respect and aplomb.
Prices are absolutely pedestrian when one considers
the skill of each meals preparation and presentation.
A perfect date destination, from the moment you step
inside Zakadka seemingly everything - from the sharp
black and white interior to the excellent food and wine
(the owner even has his own vineyard) - becomes an
aphrodisiac; make a reservation now.QJ4, ul. Jzefiska
2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladkabistro.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 17:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (23-48z). TGBW
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town

The best of the french cusine
Tel.: +48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
ul. Szpitalna 9, 31-024 Krakw

tel. 728 428 226
www.facebook.com/hurrycurrykrakow
Curries from all over the world
ZAZIE BISTRO
While no stranger to fine French dining, this casual
Kazimierz eatery is actually the closest thing Krakw
has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set
meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for
an affordable 29z, fantastic creme brulee, quiche that
you can order by size (from 1/8th to the whole pie) and
even escargot. Set over two levels, the ground floor
tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace
with a wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus,
interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out
canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks.
With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is
a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine
without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value
for your money.QE6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41
08 29, www.zaziebistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon
17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-45z). T6
GSW
June - July 2016
33
Restaurants
INDIAN
THE BEST INDIAN

CUISINE IN TOWN
We invite you to enjoy

our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available.
Ul. Sawkowska 13-15, phone: 012
4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
INDIA MASALA
As the new mainstay now anchoring May Rynek, this authentic
effort from the same team behind Krakws top Indian
eatery features popular patio seating and a colourful interior
infused with the scent of cardamom from the kitchen and
sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in the basement.
The name may be India Masala, but the menu represents
a wide range of regions across India with delicious dishes
well-explained in English and well-presented in traditional
metal bowls. As you might guess, weekday afternoons are
the perfect time to enjoy this place with lunch sets of 4 or 5
dishes for 14-30z served 12:00 - 16:00.QC3, May Rynek 2-3,
tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45z). 6GBSW
INDUS TANDOOR
Krakws oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially
set a new, higher standard for the citys ethnic eateries
when it opened way back in 1998. Full of reds, golds, greens
and lotus patterns, the slim interior and canopied patio are
bursting with colour, and the near constant people filing in
and out speaks to the high quality of the food, prepared by
Indian chefs. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00
- 16:00) for a fantastic value; orders placed Mon-Thu after
16:00 receive a free appetiser.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 1315, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45z). VGSW
INTERNATIONAL
TA
A
DI
F IN
O
E
ST
May Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow
reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl
www.indiamasala.pl
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI
An extension of the legendary bar of the same name,
Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down
street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees
including fish pie, falafel and more. Open late and also
open early (see Breakfast), everything weve tried has
been great, essentially making od Kuchni our favourite
thing about Alchemia these days. The simple, white tile
and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagens
meatpacking districts, the prices wont divest you of your
beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the
bar next door. The team behind this place obviously cares,
rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds;
cheers to that.QD6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99,
www.odkuchni.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (13-42z). GSW
BIERHALLE
This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name,
bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Krakws May Rynek.
At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different ales
most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go
gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu of
German bratwurst, breaded cutlets and dumplings has been
recently expanded and improved by star chef Kurt Scheller
(and his stellar moustache), all while staying affordable,
and open late as well. A helpful multi-lingual menu, nice
Restaurants
service, and TVs streaming sports in every room make it a
lads magnet, but we found Krakws locale to be less rowdy
and more refined than expected. This is one of those happy
cases where success seems to have actually improved the
brand.QC3, May Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 517 38 26 42, www.
bierhalle.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (10-60z). TUGBSW
COPERNICUS
Inside one of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find
one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class
service inside an elegant gothic interior that features
original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded
each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by
Nobel Prize winners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political
dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu
changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin
Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal
flavours; choose between 5 (180z), 7 (240z) or 12 courses
(350z). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it
easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QC5, ul.
Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21,
www.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TGBSW
ENOTEKA PERGAMIN
The latest effort from Pergamin combines everything needed
for any occasion into one location. On the ground floor its an
affordable family bistro where the chefs are at work behind a
long deli counter of local delicacies used to create delicious
cheese and meat plates, brick-fired pizzas, pastas and fresh
seafood dishes. Meanwhile, the upscale cellar features its own
dining card and three tasting menus, plus a classy cigar room
and cosy wine and cocktail bar. With a huge wine cellar, not
only can the sommelier recommend the perfect bottle for your
meal, but the bartender is one of the best mixed-drink men in
town. Also functioning as a delicatessen and wine shop, Enoteka
Pergamin is basically whatever you want it to be, but also one of
the few places we know where you can really splash out on a
nice bottle of wine and still enjoy an affordable meal.QC4, ul.
Grodzka 39, tel. (+48) 797 70 55 15, www.enotekapergamin.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (17-199z). XSW
PINO
Though its a bit ironic (if not outright silly) to take a historic
Old Town townhouse and make it look like a warehouse
with a modern post-industrial interior, such are the todays
trends, and PINO actually pulls it off beautifully. Full of
i-beams, wrought iron and exposed brick - and featuring
a mezzanine level, open kitchen, pizza oven and seasonal
patio dining - the space is exceedingly well-designed and
wonderful for casual meetings, family dinners, or after-work
cocktails and beers. The range of the menu covers pizza
(recommended), pasta, burgers, seafood, ribs and steaks,
you name it - and everything is made on-site, from the
burger buns to the ice cream. Affordable and delicious, the
service is great, and this is definitely one of our new favourite
places in the Old Town. Try it.QB3, ul. Szczepaska 4, tel.
(+48) 609 01 50 16, www.restauracjapino.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (28-69z). GBW
June - July 2016
35
Restaurants
FOOD TRUCKS
FOOD TRUCK SQUARE

Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierzs
Skwer Judah - so named after the massive street mural
that adorns it - provides parking for this culinary trend.
With beach chairs, benches and palettes placed all
over this concrete pitch, you wont find a cooler place
to catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but
reliable residents include Big Red Bustaurant (a vintage
double-decker bus with upstairs seating, serving fish
and chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries), Andrus
Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled
pork sandwich) and Chimney Cake Bakery. Opening
hours and availability vary with each, but most are
open roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (note
that there are fewer venues open on Monday).QE6,
Skwer Judah, ul. w Wawrzyca 16.
DAJWR 21 FOOD TRUCK PARK
Though lacking some of the size and scenesters of
Skwer Judah, this gravel lot for food trucks has a similar
vibe, and its success is secure thanks to a touristfriendly location across from Galicia Jewish Museum.
Most of the food trucks here do lunch elsewhere,
so note the later opening time. On our last visit we
found Calavera Mexican Grill (recommended), Gruzja
Na Kkach (Georgian), wraps, salads, French fries and
frozen yogurt. Theres also the Armon Bar in the back
of the lot, which basically uses the space as its beer
garden.QE6, ul. Dajwr 21. Open 14:00 - 22:00.
NEW
BEZOGRDEK FOOD TRUCK PARK
A food truck park that actually resembles a park
(rather than parking lot), the location at the far end of
enormous Bonia meadow may seem far afield, but its
actually the perfect place for families frolicking in Jordan
Park to escape and get some food. Well designed with
boardwalks built over the grass, beach chairs, picnic
tables and even a small playground for the kids, here
youll find upwards of 12 food trucks on any given
day, including most of the staples of mobile cuisine burgers, fries, hot dogs, coffee, ice cream, sandwiches,
etc. Frequent host to food festivals, parties and other
events, this is certainly Krakws nicest food truck park.
QG2, ul. Piastowska 20. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy,
well admit we initially disapproved of this project, but
we never imagined it would be pulled off with this
much elan. Adapted to its surroundings while subtly
outclassing them, Plac Nowy 1 features a lovely modern
interior full of natural light and plant life. With plenty
of space, patrons have their choice between the highceilinged main dining room, sidewalk tables, covered
patio, or mezzanine, and theres even bowling in the
basement. The menu wanders across cuisines to follow
recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes
uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and
they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional
beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably
now the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QD6, Pl.
Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.placnowy1.pl.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (2665z). TUGBSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between
lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of the most
stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades
of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless stays
well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows
and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like
a fragile fire-pole. On the card youll find salads, pastas,
and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the
mornings and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas)
late night, when everything inside from the cushions
to the clientele looks edible.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski
2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open
07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. (24-59z). TB
XSW
SISSI ORGANIC BISTRO
This wonderful restaurant emphasises healthy eating
and organic ingredients (including their own jams,
locally-sourced meat, and their own fresh-baked
bread) to create exquisite fusion dishes that change
regularly. Complemented by choice bottled beers and
an excellent wine selection, theres really nothing we
cant recommend from the stellar soups to the unique
sandwiches, and their homemade ice cream is outof-this-world. The pleasing interior of blonde woods
includes a lovely seasonal garden, the staff exude
confident professionalism, and the prices are curiously
low for such an elegant experience. Each time weve
visited weve witnessed other patrons literally gushing
at their tables over what a pleasant surprise this place
is.QB2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 602 23 45 55, www.
sissibistro.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.
(9-43z). 6GBSW
Write your own reviews at

TRADITIONAL BEER
DELICIOUS DOWN TO THE LAST
DROP
POLISH CUISINE
SO TASTY THAT YOU WON'T WA
NT TO LEAVE THE TABLE
AN UNFORGETTABLE AND MAGICAL ATMOSPHERE

- GUARANTEED !!!
VISIT US AT BIERHALLE IN KRAKW

MAY RYNEK 7
KRAKW
+48 517 382 642
WWW.BIERHALLE.PL
Restaurants
STUDIO QULINARNE
Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the City
Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this
airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned
it into one of Krakws most elegant dining destinations.
Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly
hang between fine table settings with refreshingly
mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the
main dining area, and the chefs oversee sizzling pans in
the open kitchen. The air of exclusivity is diffused by walllength windows opening onto the street in fair weather,
and the summer garden full of greenery and futons
- one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail in
town. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to
pricey exotic game, and we can recommend not only the
venison, but the entire experience.QE7, ul. Gazowa 4,
tel. (+48) 12 430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90z). T6
UEGBSW
SZARA
Enviably located right on the market square, Szaras
reputation as one of the best restaurants in town
hasnt wavered over the years and if youre looking for
a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special
last night in town meal, this is a sure bet. Gorgeous,
painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding
service create an atmosphere of complete elegance,
but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by
other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and
casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the
day (breakfast served 08:00-12:00), or enjoy a cocktail in
the evening.QC3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421
66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (34-85z).
UGBSW
SZARA KAZIMIERZ
Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the
second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly.
What makes it so special is not the convenient location
on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food:
nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This
is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the
blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful, all of Krakw should be like
this.QE6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.
szarakazimierz.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-73z). GB
SW
TRADYCYJA
Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past
incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely
unused), theres no need to mess with this historic
market square locale, which oddly blends old
Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a
beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously
gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason).
Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and
Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights
Restaurants
of previous kitchens, but the results cover for the
sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well
within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent live
folk music and dance performances.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(21-62z). TUEGBW
TRZY RYBKI
Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the
interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring,
balancing modern style with the expertly preserved
details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern
European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes
like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady
effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients.
Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who
have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.QC2,
ul. Szczepaska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06,
www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (85-99z).
6UGSW
VANILLA SKY
The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky
is one of the citys only restaurants to use only certified
organic ingredients, and youll be happily commiting
to the eco-craze once you see the menu of tantalising
dishes like duck breast served with red cabbage stewed
in wine, and homemade dumplings. Set in the centre
of a spacious dining room on the hotels third floor,
the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano
on which evening concerts are performed Wed-Sat, as
well as Sunday afternoons.QH4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel
Art Niebieski & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.
vanilla-sky.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (38-64z). TU
EGSW
ZENIT
Zenits bar and kitchen seem to be in competition
with each other to see which can establish itself as
the main draw of this all-around excellent venue. This
is the place in Kazimierz for a morning cocktail - the
drinks are made using homemade syrups and top shelf
liquor, and the expert barmen love a new challenge.
The breakfast menu (served 08:30 - 13:00; Sun 09:00
- 13:00), meanwhile, is phenomenal, featuring such
goodies as their waffle with mint cream cheese,
smoked salmon and a poached egg. The regular menu
shifts with the seasons and is no less amazing, the
prices are unfairly low considering the quality, and
it all comes with great service from waiters who are
actually invested enough in your dining experience
to sometimes even convince you to change your
order. Filled with framed art and gold paint, that the
space feels a bit like a 70s hotel lobby bar isnt even
a concern. Are we gushing? Were gushing.QD6, ul.
Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 602 69 19 96. Open 08:30
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (1639z). T6 G S W
June - July 2016
39
Restaurants
LATE NIGHT EATS
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually
better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the
24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all
over town (see p.42). Perhaps Polands most popular
street food is the zapiekanka and the best place to
get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy
roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at
least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only
late night food spot more legendary is the Kiebaski z
Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand.
ISRAELI
HAMSA
In a district whose dining establishments still treat
Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, heres a
restaurant free of nostalgic pre-war dcor and wooden roof
fiddlers, where Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional
East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by
being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a
range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual
environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and
not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah (our
recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented
in hand-painted dish ware. Theres plenty of room, and in
spring/summer this restaurant expands to ul. Miodowa
41 with a beautiful garden. Fairly-priced and generally a
breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE6, ul. Szeroka
2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 23:00. (30-60z). T6GBSW
ITALIAN
KIEBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI

This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a
Cracovian street food institution for over twenty years. Here
two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue
Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays
to grill kiebasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the
hungry, drunken masses. For 8z you get a delicious sausage,
slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable
experience. Krakws first food truck, dont miss it if youre
in the neighbourhood.QE4, ul. Grzegrzecka (Hala
Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
PRZYPIECEK
Join legions of happy locals tucking into a large range
of pierogi with various stuffings, served all night long
with no fuss and no formality. Sure, its not as fast as a
kebab, but its a much better value, better quality, and
they even offer tables to sit at. At the end of a night of
clubbing, there are few better places in Krakw for filling
your stomach.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12
422 74 95. Open 24hrs. (9-18z). GBSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late night
menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty
tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods
like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with
garlic, meat balls and a lot more.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2,
tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. (8-23z). BXSW
AMARONE
Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a
discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly
what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The
pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every
time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread
(baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients
straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made
Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants.
Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting
menu for only 50z.QC2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (49-65z). T6UEGW
AQUA E VINO
Following a quick renovation, this veteran restaurant
remains as exciting as the day it opened. Once inside
this chic, somewhat hidden cellar space possesses an
atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan, and comes
decorated in a minimalist style with cream and mocha
colour combinations redolent of a Milano cookie. Half
restaurant, half lounge bar, the Italian owners Francesco
and Roberto are professionally trained chefs themselves,
who personally oversee the beautifully presented dishes
coming out of the kitchen. Earning rave reviews from all
corners, this merits a place on any must visit list you may
be keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri 13:00-16:30) to
get an appetiser, main and drink for only 35z.QB3, ul.
Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67, www.aquaevino.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:15. (24-69z). GSW
Get the In Your Pocket

City Essentials App
Restaurants
2 0 1 6
POD R RESTAURANT
14 Floriaska Street, Krakow
MODERN POLISH CUISINE
www.likusrestauracje.pl
3 RYBKI RESTAURANT
5 Szczepaska Street, Krakow
RISTORANTE AMARONE
14 Floriaska Street, Krakow
(entrance from w. Tomasza Street)
COPERNICUS RESTAURANT
16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow
June - July 2016
41
Restaurants
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
Photo by Karol Grzenia
A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour

snack and shot bar. Known locally as Zakski Przekski
(literally Appetisers & Snacks), these trendy dives cash
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices
by offering a small selection of Soviet-era bar food, and
drinks at half the usual price. Much like an all-night milk
bar with a liquor license, Zakski Przekski bars are a
great place to keep the party going and meet the citys
strangest characters.
AMBASADA LEDZIA
Theres a vodka and led bar on seemingly every
corner in Krakw these days, and were gonna go
ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia for this fishy fad.
They were first, and if were judging by food, theyre
also the best. In case youre wondering, pickled herring
(led) is a delicacy in these parts in the same way that
vodka is local parlance for medicine. The two go great
together and for 12z its a cheap fling with foreign
culinary culture. Though the primary Herring Embassy
now closes at midnight, the all-night shenanigans that
once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply
moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 (led u
Fryzjera, open 10:00 - 05:00).QC3, ul. Stolarska 8/10,
tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. GW
PIJALNIA WDKI I PIWA
Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnias
around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded
inside and out with students and street urchins,
Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and
trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu of
traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that
conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC3, ul. w. Jana 3-5
(entrance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Open 24hrs. NGBW
BIANCA
This small Italian bistro next to St. Marys Basilica comes
preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of
the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Marmolada.
No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though
the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta
dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the relaxed,
prevalently white (go figure) interior reveals a high level of
perfectionism in each element (dont fail to notice the handpainted ceiling), but wisely leaves big impressions to the
kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room,
where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display.QC3,
Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www.biancaristorante.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-60z). GBW
BOSCAIOLA
With pedigree and another winning design job from the team
behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly upscale
Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts a stylish interior
full of lovely timber and white ceramic fittings, with large
windows that bring a bit of sunshine and street theatre to the
front tables; downstairs is a beautiful cellar full of wine bottles
and wire-brushed brick and stone. The menu is a by-now
familiar array of pizzas and pastas, but theres no skimping on
the quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the total of the
bill at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the centre.QB3,
ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27, www.boscaiola.eu.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (15-63z). TUGBSW
INVITO PIZZA & PASTA
The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior
with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good
company and affordable food (two-course meals for as
little as 16.90z, pizza of the day 13.90z). The decor nicely
balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the
elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and
white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu
which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and
do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen
quickly. With cute students on the orders, live football action
on the big screens, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the
stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, theres really
nothing to disagree with here.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 33,
tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35z). TUGSW
LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA
Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime
La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the
gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of
sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining
environment in Krakw; in winter, retreat to the romantic
cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried
and true team behind Mid Malina and Wesele - two of our
favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and
risotto are as good as youd expect, and the atmosphere
is tough to beat.QC4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430
22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-65z).
TEGBSW
Restaurants
Recommendation
Classy budget dining,

right in the centre.
Krakow In Your Pocket
Recommendation
Pizza, pasta
e magia
Amazing place...
excellent pastas, great
service, just delicious!!!
ul. Szewska 10, Krakw

tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
Krakw
ul. Kanonicza 7
tel. +48 12 430 22 32
www.lacampana.pl
June - July 2016
43
Restaurants
LA GRANDE MAMMA
Responsible for some of the most understated but sterling
restaurants in town, the team behind Mid Malina and
Boscaiola has put their talents on display again with La
Grande Mamma. Located on the corner of the market
square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an
ambience ideal for romantic trysts over wine and Brodetto
(brothy fish stew), or more casual meetings consecrated
with delicious pizzas and pasta. In addition to outstanding
food and service, interior design is another of their fortes,
and the stripped wood and mirrored tiles employed here
give a fresh finish to their successfully established style.
As usual, acute attention is paid to every detail, and the
payoff is more than worth the figure on the bill at the end.
QB3, Rynek Gowny 26, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.
lagrandemamma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-60z).
TGBSW
MAMMA MIA
Dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven, pizzas are
the pride of this place, but the plethora of home-made
pastas and other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia
is more than just a one trick pony. The interior of clever
lighting and exposed bricks makes a cool backdrop for
casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to
Mamma Mias venerated reputation.QB2, ul. Karmelicka
14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-47z). UGBSW
DECODING THE MENU

Since one of the main things youre likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words youre
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
niadania breakfast
zupa soup
przystawki appetisers
dania gwne
main dishes
dodatki
side dishes
ziemniaki potatoes
kapusta cabbage
ser cheese
chleb bread
warzywa vegetables
owoce fruit
miso meat
kurczak chicken
wieprzowina pork
woowina beef
ryba fish
deser dessert
ciasto cake
lody
ice cream
napoje drinks
kawa coffee
piwo beer
NOLIO
Priding themselves on their fine Italian ingredients (water
buffalo mozzarella, pistachios from the foot of Mt, Etna),
Nolio makes Krakws only authentic Neopolitan-style
pizza. The dough is left to sit for eight hours and baked in
a wood-fired oven for only a minute in strict accordance
with Napoletana ingredients and technique. The interior
is all black (like the inside of their oven) with blond wood
furnishings, and the menu is minimal, offering six types of
homemade pasta and a concise choice of classic pizzas.
Though there are a few gourmet options like pizza with
tuna steak, we recommend the Mezze Luna - half pizza,
half calzone. Absolutely packed from the first moment it
opened, is this really the best pizza in town? We believe it
is.QD7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 12 346 24 49, www.
nolio.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (17-35z). T6
GBS
More content online:

NEW
PASTA BAR
As advertised, this simple restaurant features a menu you
know, but executed to perfection. Enter past the open
kitchen into a lovely dining room that nicely blends
historic details (timber ceiling, columns) with modern
touches to create a casual, communal atmosphere,
enhanced by very professional service. Choose from
delicious pastas, ravioli, gnocchi, pizzas and salads - all
made on-site from fresh, authentic, quite often seasonal
ingredients - and pair your meal with a glass or bottle
from their extensive wine list. Food prices are arguably
undermarket (and you can fill up on complimentary fresh
bread with oil and vinegar); just watch how often you fill
your wine glass.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
533 77 99 09. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-29z). T6G
BSW
JEWISH
ARIEL
Youll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit
was underwhelming, weve met many who extol the
virtues of this veteran restaurants varied Jewish cuisine.
The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and
heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a
set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The
live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential
tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less
when you learn you are being charged (25z) to listen
to it. Performances take place daily and reservations are
recommended.QE6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12
421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
(19-78z). 6EBXSW
Restaurants
Ci voglio ritornare!
massi1960 by
Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten

a better pizza.
Tadeusz Patek by
ul. Karmelicka 14, Krakw

Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
June - July 2016
45
Restaurants
THE OBWARZANEK
KLEZMER HOIS
Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath
house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierzs most
well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty
sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish
Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant
generally follows kosher rules, though theres no rabbinical
supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (29z) take
place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the
crowds amused and the wine flowing.QE6, ul. Szeroka
6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 07:00 22:00. (19-59z). UEGSW
MEXICAN
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start

with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled
(usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame
seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every
other street corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable
theyve become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact
the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish foods currently
protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known
as the Cracovian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name
from the Polish word for par-boiled and therefore
differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being
its internationally popular counterparts predecessor.
Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex,
confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was
invented by Krakw Jews after 1496 when King Jan
Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the
production of baked goods to the Krakw Bakers Guild.
First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile
dates back to 1394, meaning that its been a daily sight
on Krakws market square for over 600 years. Though
increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price
of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50z (sacrilege!),
youll still see countless people on the go munching
these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the
art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up
to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000
obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that
on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by
date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one
is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki
also feed Krakws entire pigeon population when
in the evenings the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
ALEBRICHE
In a town that should be admonished for its awful
Mexican food, Alebriche has almost nothing in common
with its competition, and heres the simple difference: its
actually owned and operated by a local Mexican family
(gasp!). Developing an immediate cult following upon
opening, Alebriche sends ex-pats into ecstasy with its
simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu
includes everything from tacos to flan, with spicy soups,
tamales and proper chicken mole in between. In addition
to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place in
town where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple,
but bright, colourful interior full of paper streamers
and folk costumes confirms that the main focus is on
the food - so good youll be coming back until youve
tried everything on the menu. Also at ul. Karmelicka 56
(A-1), and heartily recommended.QA1, ul. Karmelicka
56, tel. (+48) 510 55 02 11, www.restauracjalebriche.
com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-50z).
GBSW
NEW
POCO LOCO
This simple Mexican eatery boasts healthy, fast and
affordable food made on-site and assembled right in
front of you at the counter. Luring most of their clients
from the hospital and Mining Academy nearby, Poco
Loco gets several things right - the meat (pulled pork,
shredded chicken or beef ) is stewed, not fried, they
offer both wheat and flour tortillas, you can get it as
hot or mild as you want, and they even have free tap
water (jaw drops to floor). On the downside, the menu
fails to envision anything beyond standard burritos and
quesadillas, so theres really nothing special happening
here beyond slightly healthy, fast food.QA2, ul. Czysta
9, tel. (+48) 690 80 08 05, www.pocoloco.net.pl. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-18z). VG
SW

City Essentials App
Polish Food
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish
restaurant or milk bar (see p.52) in town. Smacznego!
NALENIKI
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
BIGOS
PIEROGI
Though there is no standard

recipe for this hearty stew,
ingredients usually include lots
of fresh and pickled cabbage,
sausage, onion, mushrooms,
garlic and whatever else is on
hand. In fact, metaphorically
bigos translates to big mess,
mish-mash or confusion in Polish. Seasoned with
peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the
stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A
Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured
on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Doughy dumplings traditionally

filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet
cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, strawberries or plums,
though if you nose around you
will find plenty of maverick
fillings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly
limitless and they are served
almost everywhere in the city.
PLACKI
These greasy, fried potato
pancakes are very similar to
Jewish latkes and best enjoyed
with goulash on top (placki
po Wgiersku). Highly caloric,
theyre also a tried and true
hangover cure.
GOBKI
ZAPIEKANKA
quinn.anya/www.flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0.
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists of

boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army
gobki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their
unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal
ever since.
GOLONKA
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh. A true Polish delicacy,
the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the
bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with
beer. Go caveman.
KIEBASA
Sausages, and in Polish shops youll find an enormous
variety, made with everything kind of meat imaginable,
from turkey to bison. Head to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski at Plac Targowy (see p.40) to get a taste of Krakws
most famous kiebasa, however. Two old-timers have been
grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this
hallowed sidewalk stand.
The ultimate Cracovian drunk

food. Order one at any train
station in PL and youll get half
a stale baguette covered with
mushrooms and cheese, thrown
in a toaster oven and squirted
robert6666 - dollarphotoclub with ketchup. Underwhelming
to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierzs Plac
Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the Polish pizza.With
endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese,
pickles, pineapple, feta you name it), garlic sauce and chives
have become standard procedure at this point. Because of
their popularity youll witness ridiculous lines at the various
windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At
8-10z its a great value and will sustain you through a night
of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac
Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for
one anywhere else in Krakw.
ZUPA (SOUP)
Poland has two signature soups:
barszcz and urek. A nourishing
beetroot soup similar to Russian
borscht, barszcz may be served
with potatoes tossed in, with
mini-pierogi floating in it, or with
Barszcz
a croquette for dunking, but we
prefer to order it solo - in which case it comes simply as
broth in a mug expressly for drinking. urek is a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
Restaurants
Friendly efficient staff,

delicious food, and had
a very happy evening!
Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
Rynek Gwny 10
tel. +48 12 422 74 60
www.weselerestauracja.pl
June - July 2016
49
Restaurants
POLISH
BROWAR LUBICZ
Founded in 1840, and reopening after 14 years of silence,
this historic brewery has reinvented itself as an upscale
brew-pub (coinciding with the completion of the exclusive
residences that surround it), replete with a snazzy logo,
stylish post-industrial design, door greeters, sports on
the tele, a full card of local fare, and 11 signature craft
ales brewed on-site. The kitchen uses local and seasonal
ingredients to conjure some delicious takes on regional
specialties like maczanka and golonka, and they even offer
their own honey-roasted wheat malt as a beer snack. Visit
Mon-Fri between 12:00 and 15:00 to take advantage of
the 19/16z lunch buffet.QE-2, ul. Lubicz 17J, tel. (+48)
12 353 99 44, www.browar-lubicz.com.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. (19-89z).
CZERWONE KORALE
This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from
the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and
welcoming in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker chandeliers
wound with bright ribbons and beads give the dining
rooms a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders
and peasant maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the
walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which
serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative
innovations and a flair for presentation youd hardly
expect. Theres an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and
the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not
only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value (particularly
during their 14z lunch deals Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00).QC2,
ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.
czerwonekorale.info. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00. (13-45z). VGSW
ED RED
This upscale beef-stro (our turn-of-phrase, thanks)
specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged onsite for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior offset
by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open kitchen, Ed
Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC steakhouse, but the
curt menu is built upon local Polish products and delicacies
that change every three months. alongside a wide selection
of wines. Though casual in style, the service is outstandingly
professional, and everything from the tempting and creative
culinary cocktails to the monogrammed cloth napkins
reveals that this is a fully thought-out effort. We were
positively impressed.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48)
690 90 05 55, www.edred.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (29-195z). UGBSW
Not listed here?

Over 265 restaurant reviews online:
Restaurants
JAREMA
This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern Polish
cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century interior adorned
with stag antlers and faded oil paintings. Comely waitresses
in traditional costume bustle about serving steak tartar with
quail yolk, large platters of pheasant and wild boar, and shots
of vodka as live folk music is performed each evening. Despite
the now-familiar hearkening back to the old days, Jarema is
no tourist trap, but rather a heartily recommended destination
for carving into some royal cuisine. Featured by the Michelin
guide for seven years running.QD1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48)
12 429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55z).
T6UVEGBSW
KOGEL MOGEL
Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too refined for its own
good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall for the
communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes you in its
elegance without any comrade kitsch. The menu has gone
full Galician and offers out-of-towners the chance to take
home a much better impression of the local cuisine than
you might acquire elsewhere. The duck and goose dishes
are particularly excellent, the fried trout is outstanding and
the large seasonal garden and experienced staff also make
this a good place for groups and dinner events.QC3, ul.
Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z). TEGBSW
NEW
KURKA WODNA
With a playful name that we wont even try to translate, the
casual atmosphere of this quiet restaurant favoured by tourists
and the local clergy is elevated by elegant surroundings
and professional service. Effectively following a first course
(soup or pierogi), second course system, the menu features
richly flavoured and imagined Polish dishes - each expertly
paired with a hand-picked Hungarian wine in honour of PLs
fondness for having another country it can call brother. Like
neighbouring La Campana, the seasonal garden is one of the
main draws (as the layout of the interior rooms translates a bit
oddly into a dining space), and Kurka Wodna is sure to become
a mainstay on one of Krakws best streets for a romantic meal.
QC5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 730 70 02 48, www.
kurka-wodna.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-69z). TGB
L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly known as Bar 13, Likus has revamped their
excellent wine bar more in the mould of their other
culinary successes, and now serves modern Polish cuisine
with Italian influences. Drawing from the exclusive vintages
(served by the glass or bottle) and local delicacies of the
adjacent delicatessen and wine shop, the dining room
features a contemporary open kitchen and seasonal
minimalist menu featuring rich, creative dishes like
dumplings with oxtail, celery and lemon. Located in Pasa
13, dining the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this
classy.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel. (+48) 12
617 02 12, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 19:00. (25-55z). UGBSW
+48 730 700 248

UL. KANONICZA 15
31-055 KRAKW
BIURO@KURKA-WODNA.PL
WWW
WWW.KURKA-WODNA.PL
FACEBOOK.COM/
RESTAURACJAKURKAWODNA/
June - July 2016
51
Restaurants
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped

and Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways
of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied in todays tourist-laden Krakw, one relic remains
resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (bar mleczny
in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat
cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and
students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland
and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of
a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a
few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin,
albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a
visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
Polands first milk bar was actually opened on Krakws
own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants
were nationalised by PLs communist authorities, milk
bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based
meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently);
in fact meals at the local milk bar were often included
in a workers salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage
cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered
omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods
like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism
that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll
notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashenfaced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and the food
is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat
is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time
approaches, so go early, go often.
BAR KAZIMIERZQD7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel. (+48)
12 430 68 45. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00,
Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (3-8z). GS
POD TEMID
The easiest to find: look for the blue and white Bar
Mleczny sign.QC4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422
08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-18z). UNGS
MARMOLADA
Marmolada offers delicious local Maopolska delicacies,
perfectly prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large
stone oven before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long and
cavernous, Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns, canopied
ceilings, big timber tables and poinsettias to create their
unique combination of a comfortable local atmosphere
and low prices with great food and service. Go elegant on
Grodzka, just doors down from the citys most exclusive
restaurant (Wierzynek), and you can leave with a bill thats
less than half the size.QC3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12
422 02 33, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. Open 07:00 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z). TUGSW
MID MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY)
Consistently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in town,
so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views
afforded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful
restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and
a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. There
are floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy
cottage atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best
of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged
generously low making a visit here not just recommended
(as the Michelin Guide did), but essential.QC4, ul.
Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60z). TUGBSW
MORSKIE OKO
Morskie Oko captures the mountain spirit of Zakopane,
so you can expect plenty of sheepskin-strewn timber
furnishings, farm equipment, waitresses with bits bursting
out of traditional costumes, and regular live bands making a
good old gralski racket. The food is peasant-fancy: nicelypresented, well-portioned and perfectly prepared plates
of grilled game that have earned this place a dedicated
following. Plenty of space and a kids corner make it ideal
for family feasts.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12 431
24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-50z). TEGBSW
POD ANIOAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS)
One of the citys most historic and charming restaurants,
Pod Anioami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter
with royal medieval Polish cuisine. This cavernous, candlelit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting
considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two
levels underground; inside youre surrounded by historical
artefacts, and two beech wood-fired grills allow you to
watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. The
extensive menu includes Pod Anioamis famous pierogi, plus
everything imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was
enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special
recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the buildings
past as a goldsmithy. One of Krakws richest restaurant
experiences indeed, and highly recommended.QC4, ul.
Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl.
Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-140z). 6GBSW
Restaurants
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Heaven! Fantastic food,

excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!
Maria - London
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 422 02 33
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
One of the best dining experiences

we have ever had. This place
deserves a michelin star!
James by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 40
tel. +48 12 430 04 11
www.miodmalina.pl
June - July 2016
53
Restaurants
Polish
Restaurant
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Open: Mon-Thu 09.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 09.00 - 24.00, Sun 09.00 - 24.00
ul. Sawkowska 13-15, Krakw, tel. 12 430-61-08, www.czerwonekorale.info
POD BARANEM
An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the upscale
interior features exposed brick, timber ceiling beams and a
fireplace, offset by framed photos of family and guests on
the walls, creating a truly comfortable and classy dining
environment. Serving excellent incarnations of Polish
standards, the menu includes more meat than youll find
at a livestock market (including deer and wild boar), plus
a special page dedicated to gluten-free meals, and the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread may be the
best in Krakw.QC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(23-100z). TUIXS
POD NOSEM
An elegant upscale dining experience on Krakws oldest
street, under the nose (as the name translates) of Wawel
Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit
yours upon entry. This establishment uses the sous vide
method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully
presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes
every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative
touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating,
gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose
profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and
guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of
your experience in Krakw.QC5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel.
(+48) 12 376 00 14, www.podnosem.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (19-78z). GBW
POD R (UNDER THE ROSE)

Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of
the magnificent Pod R Hotel. The open and elegant
design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched
on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking
the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for
desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally
inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared
poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the
standards.QC2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69z). TUEGW
POD WAWELEM
The place to visit if youre looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare
cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards theyre
served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench
seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and
families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the
grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over
energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and
half-price on Mondays, and theres a handy vomitorium
in the mens room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for
those suffering from over-consumption. Now a second
location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QC5,
ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.
podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(20-40z). TUEGBS
Restaurants
Reservation +48 12 421 39 99
RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE
Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously,
just split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers
for only 7.50z on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry
vodka shots with the check, this restaurant has been a
rampant success in one of the most high-rent locales in
the country. Less beer-hally than its sister establishment
Pod Wawelem, enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of
the Town Hall Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly
intimate Austro-Hungary-inspired interior inside the
Cloth Hall, all while stuffing yourself silly on local
specialties at some of the lowest prices on the market
square. The fact that it isnt a shameless tourist trap,
makes it even more of a tourist magnet.QB3, Rynek
Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennicerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(16-43z). TGBSW
SSIEDZI
Probably the best restaurant in Kazimierz for
introducing yourself to traditional Polish food,
Ssiedzi (Neighbours) offers up delicious portions of
all the standards in a lovely tavern-style interior that
perfectly balances elegance with homely comfort.
The honeycomb of intimate rooms in the cellar are
perfect for small groups, but wed dine in the flowerfestooned patio and winter garden every time if theres
a table available. The staff are refreshingly friendly and
helpful, and tested classics like urek, potato pancakes
and perch in lemon-saffron sauce all earn top marks.

This is the Polish dining experience youre looking for,
but at prices beneath those youd get for the same
Michelin-recommended results in the Old Town.QD6,
ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 12 654 83 53, www.oberza.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-75z). TGBSW
SKANSEN SMAKW
This karczma directly across from the main bus stop at
Kryspinw Lagoon (a popular public beach, p.123) was
built to be an authentic exercise in traditional Maopolska
mountain architecture and cuisine (albeit on a lake near the
airport). Replete with timber beams, sheep-skin rugs, dried
flower garlands, beads and colourful folk motifs, Skansen
Smakw offers guests the whole experience, including
live concerts on Sundays, and lively folk performances on
Thursday evenings. The menu is a hearty romp through
the specialties of the region, prepared precisely as they
should be: golonko (pork hocks) basted in beer, ribs in
plum sauce and urek soup served in a bread bowl. Prices
are reasonable, but bear in mind that sides are ordered
separately, and the restaurants popularity can sometimes
lead to lengthy wait times. To get there take any tram
which terminates at the Salwator tram roundabout, and
from there you can catch bus 209 to Budzy Zalew na
Piaskach (requested stop) right across from the entrance.
Qul. Cholerzyn 424, Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 357 10 06, www.
skansensmakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. From July open
11:00 - 22:00. (13-120z). T6UEGBSW
June - July 2016
55
Restaurants
WESELE
This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of
the most popular on the market square thanks to a
reputation built on Michelin recommendations, friendly
service and a comfortable atmosphere. If your Polish is
about as good as your Chinese, the name Wesele refers
to the lengthy celebration of family, food, love and vodka
that takes place after a traditional Polish wedding service,
and if this place werent full of tourists all the clinking
glasses and smiling faces might make you think youd
actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. Recommended.QC3,
Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, www.
weselerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z).
TUEGBSW
WIERZYNEK
Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the
opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings
and nine princes. Since then its been one esteemed
guest after another, with former diners including De
Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other world leaders, as well
as starlets like Sophie Marceau and Kate Moss. The
immaculate interiors of original period furnishings,
tapestries, oil paintings and incredible timber ceilings
arent too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle and
you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The
seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional
feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasnt
failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning
youll eat like a king and remember the experience one you could only have in Krakw - for quite a long
time.QC3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96
00, www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (79120z). TE GBW
VEGETARIAN
KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER
Well-established in Warsaw, this cheap vegan burger
joint has stormed into Krakw and the kids are literally
queuing out the door. Choose from 5 standard patties
- millet (jaglanex), seitan, chickpea (cieciorex),
veggie and tofu, plus outstanding weekly inventions pick your sauce and bun, and then leave the rest to the
riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line efficiency
is something to behold. The interior is as simple as the
menu (from which fries are conspicuously absent),
and, as if their hipster cred could possibly be in
question, Krowarzywa has their own bottled yerba
mate brand and offers 3z nettles shots, plus natural
smoothies. Honestly, we eat here once a week, and
its encouraging to see a place like this gain traction
just off the market square. Check it out.QB2, ul.
Sawkowska 8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www.
krowarzywa.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (12-16z). 6G B S
Restaurants
POD NORENAMI
Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the
metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place
weve seen in PL, Pod Norenamis long menu (too long if
were honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef
prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes
from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and
China. While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura,
sushi, pad Thai) arent new to Krakw, a true vegetarian
restaurant that emphasises mock meat certainly is, and
the results have got people packing this place out and
returning often. A fun place to fool or educate the Polish
palate, the interior is modest and casual (much like the
prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Krakws
vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QB2, ul. Krupnicza 6,
tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z). TG
BSW
VEGAN BISTRO NOVA KROVA
Formerly focussed on combining two current food trends
that would otherwise seem at odds - veganism and
burgers - Nova Krova has branched far beyond food in a
bun to become a full-blown vegan bistro. Enjoy a variety
of delicious dishes made from faux meats, whole grains,
nuts, beans and other vegan buddies, vegan Sunday
brunch (10:00 - 13:00, 15z), delicious dairy-free desserts,
coffee with soy, almond or coconut milk, obscure beers
and homemade ginger- and lemonade. Burgers are still
around, and now you basically build your own with
whatever ingredients you want, including your choice
of patty (bulgar, beans, tofu, seitan, quinoa, falafel) and
bun (white, wheat, gluten-free). As you might expect
the hipster quotient here is exceptionally high - almost
as high as our opinion of the place.QD7, Pl. Wolnica
12, tel. (+48) 530 30 53 04. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (10-18z). 6UG
BSW
ZIELONE TARASY
Literally located on the roof of the modern 6-storey
Herbewo office building, Zielony Tarasy does so much
more than simply cater to their regular business lunch
clients. In fact they pride themselves on using seasonal,
organic locally-sourced ingredients to make fresh meals
without microwaves, bleached flour, palm oil or bullion
cubes. The menu clearly marks which dishes are vegetarian,
vegan, gluten-free, and low-fat, though the range of dishes
extends from wholemeal pizzas to grilled tofu to rabbit
in cream sauce, and there are several stellar specials each
day. Cheap, healthy and delicious - can it get better? It
can. Did we mention that they also do great coffee and
cocktails, which youll be enjoying on one of their several
lush terraces while taking in great views of the Old Town?
Recommended.QI1, Al. Sowackiego 64, tel. (+48) 12
631 13 00, www.zielone-tarasy.eu. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (13-34z). 6GB
SW
WE INVITE YOU TO OUR

SUMMER GARDEN
Certificate of Excellence
WINNER 2015
2016
Krakw, Plac Matejki 5

phone: +48 12 429 36 69
restauracja@jarema.pl
www.jarema.pl
Open Mon-Sun 12-23
June - July 2016
57
Cafs
Unwind in Krakw by unwinding a sweet treat from Chimney Cake Bakery.
CAFE MYNEK
For many years the best cafe south of ulica Jzefa (before
ul. Mostowa and Podgrze began to develop), Cafe Mynek
is a great escape from the bustle of Plac Nowy - particularly
when the sunny outdoor seating on Plac Wolnica is open;
while still retaining the artsy, bohemian spirit of Kazimierz.
Mynek is also one of only a half dozen establishments in
Krakw serving gluten-free and vegan eats, including a
big vegan breakfast, homemade humus and Jewish latkes.
Recommended.QD7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00
- 23:00. T6GBSW
many of which are in English. Whatever your relationship

with Israel, this quiet, wifi-enabled cafe is undeniably one
of the best places to work or study in town, with a delicious
cup of Israeli coffee served in a traditional finjan to guide
you.QE6, ul. Jzefa 36 (entrance from ul. Jakuba), tel.
(+48) 515 73 22 26, www.cheder.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
T6GSW
CAFE SZA
On the second floor of the renovated Cloth Hall, during
the warmer months Cafe Sza offers great views of St.
Marys Basilica and the market square from its large terrace,
making this is a clever spot for a romantic dessert date or
snapping some stellar photos. The coffee, cocktails and
cakes are all solid, but its really the sunshine and amazing
backdrop that youre here for. Soak it up.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 695 60 27 74. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. UGBS
CHIMNEY CAKE BAKERY

This sweet treat is native to the Hungarian-speaking
regions of Romania, but these local Polish lads have
perfected it, while putting their own twist on things. If
youre not familiar with chimney cakes, it consists of a yeast
dough thinly rolled and wrapped in a spiral around a spit,
then rolled in sugar and basted in butter while baking. At
Chimney Cake Bakery they make them right in front of
you and offer 10 different toppings and fillings, including
vanilla, coconut, nutella, peanut butter and - their most
innovative creation - ice cream in a chimney cake cone.
Enjoy this hot, steamy (hence the name) treat at their stand
in the Planty (near the train station), or at Food Truck Square
in Kazimierz (E-6). Cakes are 7-9z.QD2, ul. Basztowa 26A,
tel. (+48) 796 06 77 07. Open 12:00 - 20:00. GS
CHEDER
Opened by the Jewish Culture Festival Association in
a former prayer house, Cheder continues Kazimierzs
obsession with its past, serving as a Jewish cultural centre
and cafe. A large open space with wooden furnishings,
Cheder hosts lectures, film screenings, concerts and other
events promoting Judaism; however its most impressive
resource is the in-house library of Jewish-related books,
CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY

The haute cupcake trend has spread all the way to Krakw,
and this cheerful (but pricey) American bakery couldnt
be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself.
Offering 21 different cupcake flavours on various days of
the week (12 daily), choose from delicious creations like
Peanut Butter Brownie, White Chocolate Pistachio, glutenfree Chocolate Cashew, Red Velvet and Carrot Cake. If that
Cafs
sounds good, wait until you try their all-natural, artisanal
ice cream and milkshakes. Organic coffee and a large
selection of delicious bagels are also on hand, everything is
made entirely from scratch, and custom orders are invited.
Also at ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5) and ul. Michaowskiego 14
(A-2).QC3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.
cupcakecorner.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
TUGSW
KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS

Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their
own beans and boasts one of the best espresso machines
in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this
is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set.
Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of
vegan and gluten-free baked goods, and daily vegan
lunch specials that will make you feel great about what
youre eating, as well as how little youre paying. With a
full breakfast menu to complement their coffee, Karma is
a wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a bit
more conscious. Also a second location in Kazimierz at ul.
w. Wawrzyca 9/2 (D-7, open Thu-Sun only, 10:00 - 16:00).
QA2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.
karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00. T6GBSW
MEHO CAFE
Long one of our favourite places for a respite in Krakw, the
magnificent gardens and grounds of the Mehoffer House
have been made into the majority seating area of the
otherwise tiny Meho Cafe at the back of the estate. Full of
roses and fruit trees, this expansive oasis is well-maintained
and completely uncluttered, making it one of the most
peaceful, pleasant places to bring your book and enjoy a
coffee, arrange an evening beer rendezvous, or select from
their menu of tasty, impossibly under-priced eats. Open
early with a full breakfast menu, if youve had enough of
the bustle of the market square, theres no better, more
magical place in Krakw to start the day or unwind in the
sun than here. Highly recommended.QA2, ul. Krupnicza
26, tel. (+48) 600 48 00 49, www.mehocafe.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00. T6GBSW
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SWEET LIFE
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JAMA MICHALIKA
Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment
that Moda Polska - Polands Art Nouveau movement was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day
choosing to take their libations inside this grand venue, and
tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly changed
a bit since then and still features loads of original artwork
from the fin-de-siecle era, as well as period furnishings,
stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking
section. Theres also a full menu of Polish food and regular
folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist
groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the
appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue
is still essential.QD2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422
15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6UEXW
UL. WARSZAWSKA 7, KRAKW

HAVE YOUR SAY
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors to our
website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
JAMA MICHALIKA (p.59)
A very special and unique cafe - the entire place is
decorated with Polish artwork from the Art Nouveau
movement. Its like a museum but you can almost feel
as if you are there at the time when these artists were
inspiring each other to create. The meals are ok - but
the desserts are wonderful - beautiful to look at and
absolutely delicious!
Karen from USA
KOCIUSZKO MOUND (p.88)
The most well-known mound in Krakow, and most
prominent. Well worth visiting, as the view from the top
is breathtaking. There are a few cafes and a restaurant
to satisfy your needs, and the vicinity is worth taking a
walk and seeing the 1920s villas (summer residencies)
along the way. Heading down al. Waszyngtona from
here you will find yourself on the Vistula riverbanks - a
satisfying end to the journey.
Bart from Krakw
June - July 2016
59
Cafs
BREAKFAST
BAGELMAMA
Kazimierzs favourite bagel spot, with a range of
different toppings and cream cheeses. Plus, drip coffee,
wraps, homemade soups, a killer breakfast burrito
and more - served all day, naturally.QE6, ul. Dajwr
10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46, www.bagelmama.com.
Open 09:00 - 17:00. (4-20z). T6GSW
CAMELOT
This charming cafe has breakfast written all over it,
which is perhaps why they serve it all day long. The
large menu features breakfast sets with scrambled eggs,
paninis, baguettes, cakes and more, plus plenty of hot
drinks and other treats. Full of light and rustic charm you
may find yourself spending the entire day here.QC3,
ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01 23. Open
09:00 - 24:00. (17-25z). 6NGBSW
CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO
Early risers wont find any better place in the Old Town
than Charlotte, which offers great coffee, fresh bread,
pastries, a variety of breakfast sets (served all day) and
a wonderful atmosphere all day. High ceilinged and full
of natural light from wall-length windows overlooking
Plac Szczepaski this is a great place to read the paper,
open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of
you.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80,
www.bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri
07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(9-18z). 6GBSW
MILKBAR TOMASZA
With half the menu devoted to early morning eats,
Milk Bar is an astute place to start the day. Select from
a range of scrambled, fried, and even poached(!) egg
platters, crepes and paninis, and their excellent Irish
breakfast, served all day.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (10-18z). TUGSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast buffet,
or order a la carte and choose from two pages of exciting
breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes, pancakes,
and a solid English breakfast. If you consider breakfast
a proper meal, this is one of the best places in town to
go.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33,
www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 02:00, Breakfast served until 12:30. (11-27z). BSW
NEW
METAFORMA CAFE
Enviably location directly under Wawel Castle on the Wisa
riverbanks, this hip, family-friendly cafe has created an attractive
intersection for art, culture and design. In addition to delicious
coffee, local beers, ciders and wine, and some tasty Polish
dishes, Metaforma quadruples as a shop, gallery, and furniture
showroom, promoting Polish artists and designers specialising
in crafty, eco-friendly home decor, jewellery and accessories;
they even organise lectures and workshops for kids and adults.
With plenty of space and a sunny seasonal patio out front, this is
really more than you could ever hope for from a cafe that would
have plenty of business without half the effort thanks to their
location.QB5, ul. Powile 11, tel. (+48) 511 55 94 22. Open
09:00 - 22:00. T6UGBSW
NOWOROLSKI
This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the citys highs
and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as Comrade Lenins
preferred hangout during his visits, WWII occupation saw
Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before being
commandeered by the communist authorities during the PRL
era. Things have changed little here, making Noworolski a
creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the
autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the exquisite
art nouveau interiors by Jzef Mehoffer make it well worth a
look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it wont be
served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com.pl.
Open 08:00 - 24:00. EGSW
SODKI WIERZYNEK
This classy cafe/shop on the ground floor of Krakws most
famous dining destination is everything youd expect based
on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek real estate
while indulging in gourmet coffee and cakes, pralines,
truffles, macaroons, chocolate figures and more - all of
which are made on-site and can be taken home in snazzy
gift-boxes; or comfortably order later from their online shop.
slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 08:30 - 21:00. GBSW
SWEET LIFE
This bakery and cafe is stocked with all-American goodies
from grandmas cupboard like cupcakes, brownies,
cheesecake and pie (mmm, pie...), as well as savoury quiches,
soups and fortifying granola power bars - and many of the
options are vegan and gluten-free. Though the location is off
the typical tourist trail, its near the train station and plenty of
hotels and is a great place to post up for a laptop session with
plenty of space and unobtrusive (if slightly banal) music. Their
coffee is a definite boon with no less than seven brewing
methods on offer, including alternative techniques like
syphon, Chemex and Aeropress, and they now offer a huge
selection of sugar-free, gluten-free and even vegan ice cream.
Overall, sweet indeed, especially if you havent been around
American service in some time.QD1, ul. Warszawska 7, tel.
(+48) 793 01 15 44, www.thesweetlife.pl. Open 07:30 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. TGSW
Cafs
June - July 2016
61
Nightlife
Spreading down to the Wisa River (with a view of Skaka, p.7), Forum Przestrzenie (p.65) offers one of the citys biggest beer gardens (p.63).
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the highest
density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of
drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching
from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them
open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of
tourists that flock to Krakw every year. With increased tourism
comes increased prices, however, and these days you can
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer.
For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriaska
(C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar
will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or
Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge
a cover of anywhere from 5-20z those nights. While the
opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues
themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are
drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs
in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in
the guide on page 70.
Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use
our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to find reviews
of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your
comments about all of those which youve visited. Below
is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what
youre looking for.
COCKTAILS
The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.66) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache. For live jazz and boudoir
sensuality, its The Piano Rouge (p.68), while Hard Rock
Cafe (p.65) has always excelled in the drinks field. In
Kazimierz try Le Scandale (p.70) for smooth mixers and
sharp company, or Zenit (p.39) for their signature drinks .
CRAFT BEER
Microbrews are all the rage in Krakw, so theres simply no
excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in
Browar Lubicz (p.71), Viva La Pinta (p.67) or Ursa Maior
(p.71) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob.
STUDENTS
Not the most discriminating demographic, students will go
anywhere theres cheap drinks - namely Pijalnia Wdki i
Piwa (p.42), but for a more international crowd hit Teatro
Cubano (p.69). Those who like to dress up and dance head
to Lokal, Frantic (p.68) and Spoem Deluxe (p.68).
LADS
Irish Pub Pod Papugami (p.65) and Bierhalle (p.34) where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try
your Travolta in Lokal (p.68). Bulldog Bar (p.63) basically
never closes, or go a bit more civilised by sampling 200+
Polish and foreign ales at House Of Beer (p.65).
COUPLES
Couples looking for some face time should go wine tasting
in Bottiglieria 1881 (p.66), catch some live jazz in PiecArt
(p.68), lounge out in Shisha Club (p.67), or converse by
candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.71), before a final nightcap in
Mercy Brown (p.66).
ALTERNATIVE
Take your tattoos and tight pants to Forum Przestrzenie
(p.65), your unfinished screen play to Dym (p.64), and
your long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe (p.63).
Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted
G No smoking
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
B Outside seating
BARS & PUBS

ANTYCAFE
As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a hipster haven,
since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these
days, we wouldnt want to do this eclectic establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends
of this 30m long anti-caf, youll find an array of candlelit
nooks, an assortment of eccentric, somewhat sinister art,
great music, and a very unique, very cool vibe indeed. True
to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an
edgy bar than a quaint caf, and with a great beer selection
and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the
Old Town, youve all the more reason to occupy a table. If
you can find a free one, that is.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 12,
tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNXW
BAROQUE
Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion photographs,
dangling chandeliers and a spacious garden during the
warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp, modern space
that mixes the new with the old. Seductively attractive, its
range of cocktails is among the best in the city; choose from
knock-out creations like the Polish Spring Punch or put your
head down and do your best to rip through the 100-plus
vodkas on the list. While Krakws mojito love-affair continues
unabated, Baroques still looks the best and comes in positively
huge portions. Theres a full menu of food to peruse, and on
weekends the downstairs turns into a dance club, making this
one of the most complete venues in town.QC2, ul. w. Jana
16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. BXW
BULLDOG BAR
This small (and quite frankly cramped) bar/restaurant next to
St. Marys is aimed directly at British tourists. During the day
its busy and loud, but certainly civilised, as punters watch the
footie while ploughing through full English breakfasts (30z,
served all day), fish and chips (30z), BBQ ribs (40z), burgers
and beer; in the evening its all sticky floors and shoulderto-shoulder Jagerbombs. With a working-class aesthetic,
timber on the walls, tip-proof tables and almost no closing
time - this isnt your typical pub, but there is a certain comfort
to its inherent Britishness. We were a bit surprised to find the
food better, the prices more fair and the atmosphere less
untakeable than expected.QC3, Pl. Mariacki 1/4. Open
09:00 - 03:00, Thu-Sat open 24hrs. EGBW
Luxury Shisha Club

in town
Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakw
tel. +48 690 095 485
manager@shishaclub.pl
www.shishaclub.pl
BEER GARDENS
Doubting Thomas Lane
With more bars per capita than any other city in Europe,
suddenly every single one has a garden full of patio
furniture the moment the sun comes out. So which
to choose? If you want to get away from the market
square, Old Town alternatives include the popular nook
known as Doubting Thomas Lane (ul. w. Tomasza,
C-3), the leafy garden of Klub Re (p.66), and Bunkier
Cafe (p.64) - a positively huge terrace on the Planty. Track
down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco drinking
at its finest - Plac Nowy (D-6) is an obvious choice,
but tables can be hard to find - note that Le Scandale
(p.70) has plenty of space hidden in its courtyard. For
the districts two most atmospheric and evocative
gardens head to Mleczarnia (p.71) or Eszeweria (p.70).
Also dont forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - less lively than Plac
Nowy, but less grubby as well and it catches sun later in
the evening. For sheer size try Stara Zajezdnia (p.71)
or the sprawling riverside patio attached to hipster
hangout Forum Przestrzenie (p.58).
June - July 2016
63
Nightlife
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded first place for quality in

Polands Guinness Competition.
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
WATCHING EURO 2016

With UEFA EURO 2016 kicking off on June 10th and
lasting for an entire month (for two lucky teams at
least) until the final on July 10th, Europe will be in a
state of football fever this summer, with Krakw being
no exception. After co-hosting EURO 2012, the Poles
have qualified on their own this time, and actually
have the best team theyve fielded in years, featuring
international stars Robert Lewandowski and Jakub
Baszczykowski. As such, almost every bar and restaurant
in town will be making sure they have a TV or projector
ready, and you can expect every venue to be packed
for Polish national team matches, as deafening mass
eruptions of joy and dismay sound out randomly across
the city. If theres a particular match you want to see, you
might be wise to reserve a table beforehand, and our
top recommendations for where would include Irish
Pub Pod Papugami (p.65), The Stage (p.67), Bierhalle
(p.34), Browar Lubicz (p.71) and Teatro Cubano (p.69).
If its too late, head to Stara Zajezdnia (p.71), which will
have a huge outdoor screen and fan zone.
Here are the initial group stage fixtures for Poland:
June 12, 18:00: vs. Northern ireland
June 16, 21:00: vs. Germany
June 21, 18:00: vs. Ukraine
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
Two bars
Pool Darts
SKY TV
(All matches shown)
BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER)

Attached to Krakws best contemporary art gallery,
this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles
a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been
replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English
teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and
chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through in summer.
A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), they
now offer a full menu of delicious food; in fact the inviting
atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely
negligent table service that unfortunately cant be
circumnavigated.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 3A, tel. (+48) 12
431 05 85, bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 02:00. BXW
DYM (SMOKE)
Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and bar,
Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which
is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily
self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of
smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown
here its hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and
youre guaranteed to become a character in at least two
unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back
then; back before all our ambition and drive went into
drink, we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag...
Ah, glory days.QC2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12
429 66 61. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.
NGBW
Nightlife
FORUM PRZESTRZENIE
In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum
Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Krakws most original,
intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have
simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of street
art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly
competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and
pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the
talented, tattooed post-college crowd (hipsters you might
call them) turn this vast riverside venue into the trendiest
place to be day or night. With great views and plenty of
space, in warm months their huge riverside terrace is
sprawling with beach chairs, while inside theres enough
space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ parties and
other events are a constant, making Forum one of the
most unpredictable and exciting venues in town.QI4,
ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 54 40 97, www.
forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. EGB
W
HARD ROCK CAFE
Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the
market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rocks modern
split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink
and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after
a long day facing stern museum curators. This is also one
of the only places in town that has a happy hour, which
ironically starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isnt the
cheapest place in town, but its one of comfort for many.
QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
6UGBW
HOUSE OF BEER
With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers, this highceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas is serious about improving the beer culture of
Polands drinking capital. Full of foreigners and locals alike,
the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or
having the unnecessary and all too common distraction
of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be
a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking
the barman to uncork one, or try the local ales on draught
for more of a bargain.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance
from ul. w. Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 530 12 91 47, www.
houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 - 02:00. GW
IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI
A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian
cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish
bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens
streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphys,
Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable
atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great
place to meet people and find out just what exactly the
craic is, PP actually captures everything we like about being
in an Irish bar.QC2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61
01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
UBXW
7 pool tables
fully equipped bar
with pizza and snacks
broadcasting sport events
(Champions League, Premiership, La Liga)
live music
e Stage
obzowska 3, 31-139 Krakw

www.thestage.pl
manager@thestage.com
Reservations: +48 126 816 385
June - July 2016
65
Nightlife
CIGAR LOUNGE
NEW
LA CASA DEL HABANO
The only place of its kind in Krakw, this classy cigar
shop and lounge knows its niche, offering connoisseurs
strictly hand-rolled Cuban cigars and smoking
accessories (dont even bother bringing outside
tobacco products), complimented by a top selection
of single-malt whiskies, wine, rum and port from their
intimate bar, plus Cuban coffee. Get comfortable in
their cosy, elegant and expertly ventilated lounge full
of leather armchairs and antique Art Deco details, and
youll find that the staff is not only knowledgeable,
but exceedingly hospitable, making the prospect of
exploring the rest of Krakw seem like a matter of less
and less urgency or importance with each puff.QC2,
ul. Sawkowska 26, tel. (+48) 790 80 29 30, www.
lcdh.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. XW
WINE BARS
BOTTIGLIERIA 1881
Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this small,
intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decr
of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn timber, an open
kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar
(of course). Chef Pawe Kras has put together a mouthwatering and mercifully concise menu of delicious dishes,
and tailor-makes a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas (4z
each) right before your eyes, while sommelier Micha Jancik
complements them perfectly with his recommendations.
A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received
an Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator magazine,
and recently won a top local award for their cuisine.
Hardly a surprise, since there are embarrassingly few
venues in Krakw as beautifully elegant and unique as
this one.QE7, ul. Bocheska 5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56,
www.1881.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. GW
L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly Bar 13, this rebranded bar and restaurant
now serves modern upscale Polish food with Italian
influences, benefiting from the select vintages and
local seasonal delicacies of their adjacent delicatessen
and wine shop. Sit at the bar, or in their dining room
in front of the open kitchen, and enjoy an exclusive
selection of red, white and sparkling wines by the glass
or the bottle. Located in Pasa 13, drinking wine in the
cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy, and
it makes for a welcome break from being teased by the
3000z shoes for sale nearby.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13
(Pasa 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.vinoteka13.
pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. UGB
SW
KLUB RE
Your standard Cracovian cellar bar in most respects, Re is a
stand-out for two reasons. The first is its success in bringing
touring international acts to Krakw: some of the citys most
exciting and memorable concerts happen at this small venue,
including contemporary indie bands from home and abroad.
The second is its tree-lined beer garden, which despite
encroachment from the neighbouring English Football Club,
still ranks as one of the best in town in the warmer months.
Check the (Polish-only) website for information on future
events.QD3, ul. w. Krzya 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 08 81,
www.klubre.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. EBXW
NEW
MERCY BROWN
The word is out on this pseudo-speakeasy, and now that
theyve normalised their opening hours were lifting the veil
on the best cocktail bar in Krakw. No joke, the gentlemen
that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in
showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool and
dont miss the show. They make their own tinctures, the
liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive, artisanal
drinks changes regularly; every cocktail costs 20+ zoty,
but is absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap,
enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and
electro-swing soundtrack. Hidden above the Smakoyki
restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to
the porter at the desk that youd like to go upstairs; half the
fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QB3, ul.
Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. GW
MULTI QLTI TAP BAR
If you enjoy good beer, bring yourself here. With 20
draughts, hundreds of bottles and knowledgeable bar
staff, connoisseurs will be hard pressed to call it quits once
theyve cottoned to the fact that PLs current craft beer
craze (and low prices) is making the country heaven on
earth for hop-heads. Hidden on the first floor above one of
Krakws clubbing high streets, Multi Qlti is a relative oasis
of refinement, with a low-key atmosphere of chill sounds,
street art stylings on the walls and a smoking room with
large windows overlooking the street scene below. Bottoms
up, bro.QB3, ul. Szewska 21, 1st floor, tel. (+48) 12 341
58 47. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. XW
PIWNICA POD BARANAMI
The very definition of the oft-copied Cracovian cellar bar,
this legendary venue has been around since 1956 when
renowned eccentric Piotr Skrzynecki (see his monument
a couple doors down in front of Vis a Vis) founded its
famous literary cabaret. A local cultural phenomenon,
performances (in Polish, naturally) still take place every
Saturday at 21:00 and are popular as ever; best to book
yourself a ticket by calling 12 421 25 00. Jazz, tango, art
exhibits and other events are also frequent, but at its heart
this divey dram house is a scruffy safe haven for local
artists, academics, bohemians and moon-howling boozehounds who feel right at home amongst the clutter of
Nightlife
oddball art on the walls and rickety furnishings. A classic,
and seemingly tourist-proof.QB3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel.
(+48) 12 422 01 77, www.piwnicapodbaranami.pl. Open
11:00 - 02:00. NGW
SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD
An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Clubs cup
runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass
lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an
underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling down
in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from five flavours
of tobacco (35z and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a
quiet make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated
evening with friends.QC3, May Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 690 09 54
85, www.shishaclub.pl. Open 15:00 - 02:00. XW
WITA KROWA (THE HOLY COW)
One of the most laid-back bars in the Old Town, wita Krowa is
an intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight,
cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small, soulful
brick cellar off Floriaska, The Holy Cow inhabits two oriental
sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned stools and
two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure a range of
invigorating alcohol infusions and this is the perfect hideaway
for a cold mojito in summer or mulled cider in winter (and
maybe an opium nap). A highly recommended cult hangout.
QC2, ul. Floriaska 16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Open 16:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. 6XW
THE STAGE
A proper pool hall with a handsome design and large
windows that practically put the action happening inside
out onto the sidewalk, The Stage is actually more than just
a classy billiards club. Despite being the most professional
place in town to rack em up (they have 7 tables costing 1523z/hr), as the name suggests, the stage itself is the focus
here, with regular events including concerts, cabarets,
and karaoke with a live band (check online to see whats
up). They also have a full bar, pizza and snacks, live sports
transmissions, and a library of books to peruse. Very friendly
and laid-back, its basically the perfect neighbourhood pub.
QB1, ul. obzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.
thestage.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. UEGW
VIVA LA PINTA
Pinta has been one of PLs most popular and most-awarded
microbreweries since 2011 when it began producing craft
ales in Zawiercie, just 70km northwest of Krakw. Hidden
off ul. Floriaska, this - their flagship brew-pub - is rightfully
one of the trendiest locales in town for hipsters and hopheads. Offering 14 delicious draughts and plenty more in
the packed fridge, the selection isnt limited to Pinta ales
alone, showing an admirable solidarity among PLs small
indie breweries. The short menu features some dishes
made with their ales, but isnt nearly as special as the drinks
- one of which is sure to meet even the most distinct and
demanding of tastes.QC3, ul. Floriaska 13, tel. (+48) 12
421 05 90. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00
- 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. GBW
ul. Sawkowska 26, Krakw

790 802 930
lacasakrakow@lcdh.pl
facebook.com/lacasadelhabanokrakow
Open every day 11:00 23:00
8 thousand Cuban cigars

in one place...
La Casa del Habano Krakw
the first world class Cigar Shop
and Lounge in Cracow
...tasting in the lounge
June - July 2016
67
Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC & JAZZ
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
HARRIS PIANO JAZZ BAR

This downstairs jazz den is host to outstanding concerts
daily, yet remains one of our least favourite venues
thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If
you havent reserved a table for the show, youll find
nowhere to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once
you take your seat youll find it a trial to get up again.
Aggravating the dilemma are staff on the market
square baiting more people past the ticket vendors,
where theyll then have no view of the action on stage.
Harris now offers food until 24:00, however, so at least
theyll feed you.QC3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel. (+48)
12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. EGBW
PIECART
The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to
1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront
of Krakws respected jazz scene ever since, attracting
some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene
to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly
(check their website for exact details) in the vaulted
brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing
peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul.
Szewska has made PiecArt more inviting than ever,
with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the
longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the
wall.QC3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02,
www.piecart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. EGW
THE PIANO ROUGE
The red-light interior of this opulent underground
venue on the market square embraces burlesque
sensuality with boudoir curtains, velvet cushions,
plush loveseats, exotic lamps and an outstanding
bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is
matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening
attire, great cocktails and European fare, and live piano
jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every
day from 21:00 - 24:00.QC3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00. EGBW
CLUBS
FRANTIC
Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself
as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets. The design
is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed
rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but
the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pyjamas.QC3, ul. Szewska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00,
Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW
LOKAL
A vast, cavernous and circuitous Cracovian cellar club right
on the Rynek that features 3 bars, 2 dancefloors, a smoking
room, plenty of snogging nooks and nightly parties that
are always free, Lokal achieves an all-inclusive atmosphere
that somehow maintains a shred of urban cool, despite the
inebriated exuberance of the sexy students that make up
the crowd. The design isnt much aside from the medieval
foundations and some well-deployed epilepsy-inducing
LEDS (also the fact that this bar is brought to you by
Ballantines is hard to miss), and the booming music is mostly
contemporary chest-bouncing dance hits, but anyone
looking for a full aviary of young local birds to chat up will
be well-pleased.QC3, Rynek Gwny 6 (entrance from ul.
Sienna), tel. (+48) 735 00 17 91. Open 12:00 - 04:00. X
PROZAK 2.0
Once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to pull
from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on
their tabs, a post-renovation relaunch has gotten Prozak
back into the good graces of Krakws serious clubbing
scene, and back onto the cutting edge with an impressive
line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior remains an
endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with
an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which
to wild out. The crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty
and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until
the natural selection of those with blondes and those with
kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.
QC4, Pl. Dominikaski 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www.
prozakdwazero.pl. Open 22:00 - 06:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 08:00, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. From July open 22:00 - 06:00;
Fri, Sat 2 2:00 - 08:00; Mon, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. BXW
SPOEM DELUXE
This new off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed
Spoem club so successfully captures the atmosphere and
style of its predecessor that it would have been more aptly
dubbed Spoem Redux. With more space than ever for the
surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons,
and other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake, Spoem
Deluxe delivers a separate space for smoking and a mercifully
self-contained dance area where the DJ again spins nostalgic
pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without making conversation
Nightlife
elsewhere impossible. Though theres a dance party every
night (except Mon & Wed, which host karaoke), craft beers
and boardgames further let you know that this isnt a typical
nightclub, but one where you can come as you are (no
cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you.
Thats our kind of place and well certainly be back.QD2, ul.
Floriaska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00,
Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. XW
SZPITALNA 1
This down-the-rabbithole music club near May Rynek has
a slightly scruffy, dive disposition, but thats the appeal
(for us, anyway). Descend the stairs, then more stairs, to
find a space with several stage and dance areas where
alternative rock and blues concerts take place at least once
a week, with DJs shattering ear drums on the weekends
with techno, electronic and drum&bass sounds. The superfriendly international bar staff contribute immensely to the
atmosphere, and depending on the evening you might find
a laid-back ex-pat music-and-brewze session, or a sweaty,
writhing student sexpit; check their FB page for prognosis.
QC3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 61. Open 20:00
- 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. EBXW
TEATRO CUBANO
Effectively creating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana sidestreet as you shuffle through the alleyway strung with lights
and packed with up-all-night backpackers into the rhythmic
club - complete with linen hanging on the line, a stage for
live acts, and a huge projector screen - this vivacious venue
is a forceful breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers
from the Little Havana Hostel upstairs, Teatro Cubano is
a perfect place to get your buzz on with cheap beer and
mixed drinks served fast by efficient barmen, and you can
order platters of sliders (mini-burgers) from the adjoining
Papitos street food stand. With live music every day and DJs
into the wee hours, check their FB page to see what todays
party is. Diversity is something Krakw could use more of,
and this place embraces it.QB3, ul. Jagielloska 10, tel.
(+48) 795 19 11 70. Open 14:00 - 04:00. EBW
ul. St. Jan 10, Krakow

+48 12 430 61 64 (call after 8 pm)
+48 510 481 551
Open: 7pm - 4am, Mon - Sun
www.paradiseclub.pl
THE BEST
STRIP CLUB
IN CRACOW
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
PARADISE CLUB
Boy will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of
strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent
years would seem to confirm that men become lads
when they go abroad. Unfortunately, with the growth
of Krakws naughty clubs come rumours of scams and
shady, sometimes dangerous dealings, which is why we list
Paradise Club in our guide. Right in the centre, enter and
enjoy, and leave when you want without being extorted
for overpriced drinks or having to call a cab to get back to
the Old Town. Inside youll find an executive atmosphere
and plush leather booths surrounding the dance area, so
you wont need to get the binoculars out to observe these
birds of Paradise preening themselves on the clubs two gogo poles.QC2, ul. w. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 510 48 15 51,
www.paradiseclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. X
THE PLACE
WHERE DREAMS
COME TRUE
June - July 2016
69
Kazimierz Nightlife
ESZEWERIA
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than
any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world
antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled
walls once played host to some of the citys most novel
concerts, however these days its more of a sleepy hangout for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling
off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet
drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the
large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may
be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a queue).
QD6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. UNBXW
Alchemia
LE SCANDALE
Right on Plac Nowy (and outclassing most of the
neighbourhood), Le Scandale unfolds over a series of
sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed
business sharks, before revealing an enormous garden
(heated in winter) in the back, which includes a smoking
section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious
steaks right in front of you. Home to a large selection of
whiskey, rum, and some of the best cocktails in Krakw, Le
Scandale also features a full fusion-inspired menu (served
late) and sexy service. This is modern Krakw at its finest you may not want to leave.QD6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12
430 68 55, www.lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 03:00. UEBXW
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish

district began back in the 1990s, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict
buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading
the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and
presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly
captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district
quickly became synonymous with cafe/bars choked with
smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under
the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune
with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the areas
clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindlers List,
brought more and more tourists to its historical sights,
Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly
develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today the
area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even
ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace
of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Krakw for a night
out. Kazimierzs history makes it a requisite stop for tourists,
but it is the districts nightlife that gives it its true vitality and
much of the mystique it still carries today.
LES COULEURS
The quintessential thinking mans cafe, Les Couleurs is
a special favourite among Krakws aging, dog-faced
bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized,
non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop.
Plastered with classic French posters and photos of Serge
Gainsbourg, Kazimierzs most well-lit bar - and one of its
most well-loved - is an anytime affair where cigarettes,
coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchangable and
easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and night.
Recommended.QD6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429
42 70. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. 6BXW
ALCHEMIA
One of Krakws most evocative bars, the aptly-named
Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight,
forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the
former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in
the evenings Alchemias murky mystique metamorphoses
blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists
queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when its
not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the
best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual
jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od
Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00
(24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QE6, ul. Estery
5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open
09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00,
Sun 09:00 - 02:00. EBXW
MIEJSCE
Known simply as The Place in Polish, Miejsce offers a solid
range of homemade vodkas (nalewki), craft beers and
signature cocktails in intimate, artsy atmosphere thats
a bit like a hipster house party. With half the patrons not
hesitating to go behind the bar themselves, here youve put
yourself at the centre of a closely-knit social scene, which a
flapper dress or oversized spectacles and tight pants will
ease your integration into, if thats the goal. Decked out in
a rainbow of chairs and lamps of different shapes and sizes,
offset by hastily painted white walls and fantastic Polish
film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly original and offers a
nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
districts other offerings.QD6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 04:00. UGBW
Kazimierz Nightlife
BREWERIES
Mleczarnia beer garden.
MLECZARNIA
In summer this is the most glorious beer garden in Krakw,
and right next to an easily recognisable film set from
Spielbergs Schindlers List. If that parade gets rained on, or
you find yourself here during the dregs of winter, take solace
in the cross-street interior with its Old World atmosphere
of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden
floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling street-side windows
(not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place
for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon coffee
with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once
about: taking things as they come. Recommended.QD6,
ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mle.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. GBW
SINGER
One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all
that was to come, essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic
of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and
candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its
long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of tourists, today
Singer still holds all the magic it did when it first opened. A
charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride
around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the
regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an
energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the
entire bar begins to feel like a ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis
and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, weve had a
few good ones here.QD6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06
22. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. BXW
URSA MAIOR CONCEPT STORE & PUB
Ursa Maior is a small Polish microbrewery from the Bieszczady
Mountains - a wild, dreamy region on the Ukrainian border
full of wolves, bears and stars. As such, theres a certain wild,
dreamy spirit to their small flagship pub in Krakw, which
features a rustic-DIY design, and a staff and clientele that
both look like they might have all their worldly belongings
in a bindle behind the bar, ready to move on at a moments
notice, but slowly enjoying the present moment one pint
at a time. In terms of the Concept Store (which is a bit of a
stretch) they also sell some kooky bits of folk art presumably
made by mountain folk. Choose from 21 delicious craft beers
(6 on draught), including the dangerously drinkable nieg
na Beniowej American Golden Ale.QD7, Pl. Wolnica 10,
tel. (+48) 730 56 58 88, www.ursamaior.pl/krakow. Open
13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. GBW
BROWAR LUBICZ
riginally founded in 1840, this historic brewery has
O
reinvented itself and risen again as a snazzy postindustrial brew-pub producing 11 different craft beers,
three of which snagged medals at the 2015 Golden
Beer Poland competition (including a gold medal for
Lubicz Ciemne dark lager). Unfortunately only 4 are
available on draught at any one time, but you can take
their full assortment (including APA, Double-bock
and Wit) home with you in bottles, plus other stylish
brewery swag from their shop. Offering tours, tastings
and a full card of delicious regional cuisine and beer
snacks, this is also a great place to catch league action
on the tele. Overall, a lot of care has gone into the rising
of this phoenix, and its a welcome return.QE2, ul.
Lubicz 17J, tel. (+48) 12 353 99 44, www.browarlubicz.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00,
Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. UGSW
STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT)
This old tram depot has assumed a second life as
Krakws biggest brewery and beer hall. A large
complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara
Zajezdnias size is both a blessing and a curse. When
the suns out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden,
but the enormous main hall is too impractical to open
except for large-scale special events. The smaller outbuildings can still feel pretty lonely without a large
party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring
it here. Flat-screens are on hand for football (for Euro
2016 there will be a fan zone and outdoor screen) and
the 5 ales they brew on-site (including AIPA, honey
and apple) do well to wash down the traditional fare
tailored to complement them. Also dont overlook the
menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your
friends in the race to be first under the table.QE6, ul.
w. Wawrzyca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.
starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (12-45z). UGBW
T.E.A. TIME
The name is an acronym for Traditional English Ale,
which they brew on-site and dispense from six
draughts (two of which are hand-pumped). The ales
on offer are in constant rotation, but include a bitter,
porter, English IPA and American wheat, all served by
the pint (13.6% larger than the typical Polish half-litre,
and ranging from 10-12z) and half-pint. References
to the UK abound in the interior, and as you might
expect, this place is a major ex-pat magnet, with the
boon of staying open a bit later than the bars back
home. Though not far from Wawel, you wont find it by
accident, but its certainly worth seeking out.QC7, ul.
Dietla 1, tel. (+48) 517 60 15 03. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. GBW
June - July 2016
71
View from the Town Hall Tower towards ul. Grodzka.
Krakw Sightseeing
Krakw is much more than just cellar bars and sexy ladies
(though that would suffice for most). So put that drink
down, set an alarm, and go discover the magic of this city
- district by district.
Sightseeing
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent
cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland
not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled
Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on
the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision,
forced to erect their grey communist Utopia in the outlying
suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of
the most beautiful showpieces of Central Europe - a claim
validated by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever
UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby
Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world.
A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled
thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards,
priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens,
Krakws historic centre is the pride of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town (p.74) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter,
p.96), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.92) towering
between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone
visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have been given
their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural
listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life
wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes,
clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (weve
attempted to make a life out of it), dont hesitate to take a trip
across the river into Podgrze (p.102) - arguably the citys
most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage
trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgrze,
where the worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation played
out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Krakws greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor
attractions, Kociuszko Mound (p.88). Within these pages
youll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta (p.108),
one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built.
Designed to be the antithesis of everything Krakws
Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically,
the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram
ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more
should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka (p.112),
Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.115) and Tarnw (p.118),
information about all of which youll find in our Further
Afield section. However long your stay, the meticulously
updated information in this guide will help you make the
most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw and Maopolska.

City Essentials App
KRAKW IN 24HRS
Krakws nucleus is the market square (p.74), and as
such, the first thing you should do after dropping off
your bags is figure out how to get there - on foot, or via
krakow.jakdojade.pl (p.14) if youre staying somewhere
beyond the confines of our map on p.147. Exploring
the Royal Route (p.74) and the market square en
route to Wawel can take a full day if done correctly with
short stops/detours for culture, coffee and comfort
food - and its exactly what you should do if youre here
with limited time. Have breakfast in Charlotte (p.60),
and later a filling Polish lunch in Kogel Mogel (p.51), or
go for more familiar fare in Pino (p.35).
Make sure that your time on the market square
coincides with the turning of the hour so you hear
the famous hejna mariacki - the bugle call played
from the tower of St. Marys Basilica (p.78), and visit
the churchs interior to see the magnificent altarpiece.
Also take an hour to visit the 19th Century Polish Art
Gallery (p.82) inside the Cloth Hall and stand in awe of
some of the largest canvases youve ever seen in your
life.
After lunch start working your way down ulica
Grodzka (C4) towards Wawel, and make sure that you
stop inside St. Francis Basilica (p.79) quickly to see
Wyspiaskis colourful interiors and mind-blowing
stained glass window. After admiring the apostles
outside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (p.79),
its on to Wawel Castle (p.92). If theres plenty of
time consider a trip through the State Rooms, or rent
the audioguide for Wawel Cathedral; if not, content
yourself with simply admiring the architecture from the
castles interior courtyards (its free to walk around after
all) and later have a stroll along the riverbanks of the
Wisa River below the castle.
After dark head back to ul. Kanonicza for a romantic
dinner in Pod Nosem (p.54) or La Campana (p.42), or
backtrack a bit more to Pod Anioami (p.52) or Mid
Malina (p.52). After dinner return to the heart of the
Old Town for jazz in PiecArt (p.68), cocktails in Baroque
(p.63), or Polish microbrews in Multi Qlti (p.66). For late
night food tourism its Ambasada ledzia (p.42).
Alternatively, this is your chance to check out Kazimierz
(p.96); if youre interested in a klezmer concert get to
Klezmer Hois (p.46) by 20:00, or just go straight to Plac
Nowy and start drinking in Alchemia (p.70). Make sure
you try at least a few flavoured vodkas and if they do
their magic, head to Singer (p.71) after midnight to
start dancing on tables. For late night hunger pangs,
ordering a zapiekanka (p.48) on Plac Nowy (p.100) is
basically obligatory. Now all thats left to do is fall in
love and stay forever...
June - July 2016
73
The Royal Route

MAIN MARKET SQUARE
Krakws main market square (Rynek) serves as the
citys gravitational centre, and is the natural start and
finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed
in 1257 - the year Krakw was awarded its charter - the
grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square
have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring
200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest
medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by
elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names
and histories. The Rynek has always been the citys natural
assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests
and even executions; it was here that homage to the
King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kociuszko
famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule
in 1794, and here also that Der Fhrer himself announced
the name changed to Adolf Hitler Platz during Nazi
occupation. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long
and today the Rynek remains a stage for Polish culture,
hosting annual Christmas and Easter markets, as well as
numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the huge Cloth Hall (Sukiennice,
p.82) - effectively the worlds first shopping mall, built
in the 14th century. To this day it is still crammed
with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork
and assorted tourist tat. Beneath it the hi-tech Rynek
Underground museum (p.90) traces its history, as well
as that of the entire city, while the second floor hosts the
underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.82).
On the squares east side stands one of Krakws bestloved monuments - that of Polands most eminent
scribe, Adam Mickiewicz - between the Cloth Hall and
the Ryneks other crowning glory, St. Marys Basilica
(p.78). Dont miss Veit Stoss magnificent altarpiece
inside, or hearing the hourly bugle call played from its
tower (p.78).
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower (p.91), the only element of the 14th century Town
Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and shortsighted demolitions. Visitors can ascend up lots of stairs
to the 3rd floor for rather underwhelming views to the
west and south, but we dont really recommend it.QC3.
Conrad Cress/istockphoto.com
FOLLOWING THE ROYAL ROUTE

This walking tour from the train station to the Castle
takes you past most of the Old Towns major sights more info on which youll find in the following pages.
Floriaska Gate
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with

the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of the
Polish kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from
the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century.
Most of the Old Towns prime sights lay along this route
from the Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less
noble lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws train
station (E1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from
the station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant
you in the green space that encircles the Old Town known
as the Planty (D2, p.85). Ideal for a fair weather stroll,
the Planty was once a series of medieval fortifications
surrounded by a moat. After Polands Third Partition in
the late 18th century, the order came down from Austrian
Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected
structures, however thanks to local effort the northern
parts of the wall were spared, including the magnificent
Barbican and Floriaska Gate. Walking the two blocks
towards the Barbican, take note of the Sowacki Theatre
(D2, p.75) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous
Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a bit difficult
to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable ticket to
the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular
fortress of the Barbican (D2, p.75) was added to the citys
defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriaska Gate (D2) that officially began
the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and
youre on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind
the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to
notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this street
youll find the Jan Matejko House (C2, p.87), as well as
the under-appreciated Pharmacy Museum (p.89).
The Royal Route

Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek (C3,
p.74), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with
your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually
the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important
sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval
market square in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as the citys social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and
other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall
or Sukiennice (p.82) - a neo-Gothic structure which
has served as a market for merchants since the Middle
Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek
Underground museum (p.90) housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(p.82) on the first floor. Directly before you as youre leaving
Floriaska is St. Marys Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral
(p.78) - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country
famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained glass. Its
from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a
bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour dont miss it. On the other side of the square youll find the
Town Hall Tower (p.91), with a viewing platform at the top
(open March - October) and a theatre and restaurant in the
former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
Plac Wszystkich witych (C4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C4, p.79) with an Art Nouveau interior by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while
directly before you are three more incredible Wyspiaski
stained glass windows in a specially-made modern
building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past the Church of
Saints Peter & Paul (C4, p.79) with its striking sculptures
of the 12 disciples before it. Cut across the small square to
your right and youll find yourself on one of Krakws most
handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul
IIs former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house
the Archdiocesan Museum (C5, p.83). Kanonicza lets
out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C5, p.92), the
citys defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic
and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day
exploring, as well as the Wisa riverbanks below.
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
Jrg Hackemann - dollar photo club
SOWACKI THEATRE
Sergey Novikov - dollar photo club
Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the

Sowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when
construction began, due to the demolition of the
medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it.
Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled his design
on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished
for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical
figures. Sadly, the interior is off limits to the public
unless there is a production on, however a pleading
look may be enough to get past this obstacle. The foyer
and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-desiecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring
paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is alone worth the
deviousness needed to sneak in.QD2, Pl. w. Ducha
1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.
BARBICAN
Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
The showpiece of the citys medieval defences, the

Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main entrance and was connected
to the Floriaska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat
that surrounded it. With walls 3 metres thick this
masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved
impenetrable and today stands as one of the only
surviving structures of its kind in Europe. Built in Gothic
style, the Krakw Barbican is topped by seven turrets
and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and
riflemen. Today the Barbican is used for various special
events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and
can be visited as an outdoor museum, where youll
learn the history of Krakws defensive walls.QD2,
ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12 422 98 77, www.mhk.pl.
Open 10:30 - 18:00; closed 2nd Mon of each month.
Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket also valid
for the nearby City Defensive Walls. YN
June - July 2016
75
Old Town
Cracow City
Guides
YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER IN POLAND
Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and

Maopolska region are inviting you to local tours.
s
s
s
s
Half Day City Tour

Half Day City tour and Jewish heritage
Wieliczka Salt Mine local tour
Auschwitz - Birkenau museum local tour
Also available: Full day city tour of Krakw, Zakopane

(winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour,
Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour
Contact: guides@s-tours.pl
Ph: +48 530 170 780
Office working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00
www.s-tours.pl
CARRIAGE RIDES
If youre wondering
about the ever-popular antique horsedrawn
carriages
that line the market
square, these handsome vehicles are
available to hire for a leisurely sightseeing trot around
town. Operated by a number of different companies,
routes and prices are individually determined with the
driver but the going rate starts from 100z, the most
popular route from the market square to Wawel Hill
is generally 150z (about 30mins), and you can expect
to pay about 350z if you carry on to Kazimierz. Most
carriages fit 4-5 people and the number in your party
has no bearing on the price. Unfortunately the drivers
dont disseminate any information about what youre
seeing along the way (see, you might need this guidebook after all); that bright idea hasnt occurred to anyone yet. Still, its every girls dream to be lifted into one
of these things, so be prepared. And dont forget to
ask the driver to take your picture; its the least they
can do for the money.QC3, Rynek Gwny. Car
riage rides are generally available every day 10:00
- 22:00, rain or shine.
GUIDED TOURS
CRACOW TOURS
A variety of tour packages available, including thematic
city centre tours and popular day-trips to Auschwitz,
the Wieliczka salt mines, Zakopane and more.QB2, ul.
Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours.
pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CRUISING KRAKW BIKE TOURS
Bicycle rental and bike tours around Krakw led by
experienced native English-speaking guides. No booking
or bike required, simply appear at the Adam Mickiewicz
monument on Rynek Gwny at 12:00 (from June 16th
11:00 and 15:00); cost 85z. Longer bike trips to Las Wolski
(140z), Ojcw (180z) and Tyniec (120z) also available by
prior arrangement, as well as segway tours of Zakrzwek
quarry (370z).QC2, ul. Sawkowska 6, tel. (+48) 12 265
81 05, www.cruisingkrakow.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car
tours of Krakw, as well as airport transfers and excursions
to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a currency
exchange and sales point for the Krakw Tourist Card and
museum tickets. Second, smaller location at Rynek Gwny
30 (open 08:00 - 20:00).QC3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 782
44 81 74, www.discovercracow.eu. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
YW
FREE WALKING TOUR
As advertised, this outfit offers free English-language
walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00, 14:00 and
16:00, leaving from the Barbican (D-2); and tours of Jewish
Krakow at 10:30, 13:30 and 16:30, leaving from the Old
Synagogue (E-6). Both tours last about 2.5 hours and are
given by professional licenced tour guides, so have some
cash ready to tip these fine people. Check their website to
see all the other free tours they offer.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58
14, www.freewalkingtour.com.
S-TOURS
This family-owned outfit organises personalised guided
tours of Krakw and the surrounding region for individuals,
rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and
accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and
prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qtel.
(+48) 530 17 07 80, www.s-tours.pl.
WOW KRAKOW!
Use WOW KRAKOWs iconic red bus at your leisure, getting
a guided tour of the town as it zips between 11 stops,
where you can get off and on again as you wish. The bus
runs from about 09:30 - 18:30, appearing at each stop
every 45mins (exact schedule online).QD2, ul. Pawia
8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl. Tickets
60/40z for 24hrs, 90/70z for 48hrs; 40/30z if you just
want the tour without getting on and off the bus; kids
under 12 free.
Old Town
TOURIST INFORMATION
CRACOW CITY TOURS
Also at ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:00 21:00).QD1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 33, www.
cracowcitytours.com. Open 07:30 - 17:00. Y
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
Also at Rynek Gwny 30 (open 08:00 - 20:00).QC3, ul. w.
Jana 2, tel. (+48) 782 44 81 74, www.discovercracow.eu.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
INFOKRAKW
The official tourist info office run by the city of Krakw,
with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. w. Jana
2 (C-3), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2), ul. Powile 11 (B-5) and Pl.
Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, Wyspiaski Pavilion).QC3,
Rynek Gwny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00; note that hours
may be extended during World Youth Days (July 26-31).
INFOKRAKW KAZIMIERZ
Information on what to see and whats going on in
Kazimierz.QD6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48) 12 354 27 28,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
JORDAN INFO & ACCOMMODATION CENTRE
Also at ul. Duga 9 (C-1), the bus station (E-1) and ul. Gsia 8
(Galaxy Hotel, K-3).QD2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60
91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00; closed Sun.
SEEKRAKOW
Also in the train station (E-1, open 06:00 - 22:00), at ul.
Grodzka 18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 21:00), and Pl. Wszystkich
witych 2 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30).QC/D2, ul.
Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
TOURIST CARD
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece
of plastic that allows you
free entry to over 40 Krakw
museums (thats basically all of them, except Wawel),
and free travel on trams and buses, day and night including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt
Mine. An impressive savings, two and three day cards
are available, priced at 100z and 120z, respectively.
Another option is the Museum & Attractions Pass essentially the same card without free transport, valid
for three days, and priced at 70/60z. Every venue listed
in our guide which accepts the Krakw Tourist Card has
been marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available
at most tourist information offices, for a full list of
vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
%
AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
FROM 80 PLN
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
FROM 80 PLN
KRAKW CITY TOUR
FROM 80 PLN
AND MANY OTHERS
June - July 2016
77
Old Town
THE HEJNA
CHURCHES
With about 360 religious sanctuaries in this city, weve used
a bit of discrimination in only listing the most remarkable
and unavoidable of the bunch here. The following are all
located sequentially along the Royal Route (p.74), while
Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta churches are listed in
their respective sections.
One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the

hejna (pronounced hey-now) a short, melodious
bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four
cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica
(C3). For centuries it has been the job of local firemen
to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the
church bell and perform the hejna precisely on the hour.
A source of pride and family heritage for the few men
chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline,
but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first
written mention of the song dates all the way back to
1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was
apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the
story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city
gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman
saw them coming and played the signal from atop the
defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms.
As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat,
abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day,
the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the
citys vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman
who woke the city and thereby saved it.
Its a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used
commonly across Europe during medieval times to
open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable
that the legend is true. However, some have claimed
that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a
complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish
journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest
that an American fabricated the whole legend in
1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor
or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnas living
tradition defines and shapes Krakw. In addition to
pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live
from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be
heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the
radio every day at noon.
ST. MARYS BASILICA

After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church
in ruins, St. Marys was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing
foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th
century the towers took the iconic form they have today,
when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and
made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that the
hejna mariacki - the citys famous bugle call - is played
every hour on the hour; dont miss it.
Inside the altar, stained glass windows, and blue, star-filled
ceiling of St. Marys will take your breath away. The magnificent
wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century
German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking
years, and depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among the
apostles; note, however, that gradual conservation work on the
altar is currently underway (projected to last until 2020), and not
all elements may be on display during your visit. Surrounding
the altar are polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko,
Mehoffer and Wyspiaski done in the late 19th century.
The church is available for worship without paying an entry
fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side
entrance, however, and not visit during services; we list the
tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/5z) are purchased
in a separate building across from the tourist entrance.
Mariacki Tower is also open to tourists and an additional
ticket is required (15/10z; no admission for kids under 7; kids
7-12 must be accompanied by an adult).QC3, Pl. Mariacki
5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com. Open 11:30
- 18:00; Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Tower open 09:00 - 11:10 and
13:10 - 17:30; Sun 13:00 - 17:00; closed Mon. Last entrance
15 minutes before closing. Note that St. Marys will be
closed during World Youth Days (July 26-31). Y
St. Marys Basilica (left) and St. Adalberts Church (right).
Old Town
ST. ADALBERTS
Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at
the southeast corner of the market square - a mad mix
of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque
architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the 11th
century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and explaining why the
floor sits some two metres below it. Inside youll find a small,
uninspired, Polish-only exhibit hosted by the Archaeological
Museum about the history of the market square (open 10:00
- 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 14:00, closed Sun; admission 3/2z, Mon
free). The best way to experience the church is during the
frequent concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra. Notethat
restoration work means only the Chapel of St. Vincent is
currently accessible (open 08:30 - 17:00; no visiting during
mass).QC3, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52. Y
ST. FRANCIS BASILICA
Krakws most colourful church, and our personal favourite,
thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son
Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely balance the organic and
geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiaski also made
the eight stained-glass windows around 1895, including the
controversial and iconic centrepiece, God the Father in the
Act of Creation. Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis
Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth
popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at
another church.QC4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48)
12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00,
except Sunday when there is no visiting due to mass.
CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL

Krakws premier Jesuit Church was built in the
early 1600s, and its crypt serves as the new national
pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and
culture (Sawomir Mroek was the first interred here in
September 2013). The twelve disciples standing on the
gates outside are the churchs most striking feature,
although the interior has been extensively renovated
and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance
building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault
Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon
Foucault in 1851 which proves the earths rotation, shows
demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at
10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be
sure.QC4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65,
www.apostolowie.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30
- 17:30.
ST. ANDREWS
St. Andrews offers the finest example of Romanesque
architecture in Krakw. Built between 1079 and 1098, it
has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used
as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the
relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a
letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the
mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit
which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.
QC4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open by
prior arrangement.
June - July 2016
79
Old Town
KRAKW IYP ONLINE
Due to space restrictions in our print guide, were
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the
excellent content we have on Krakw and the
surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit
our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just
how much of the country we cover, and to download
guides to Warsaw, Gdask, Wrocaw, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Krakw-related content we didnt
have room for this issue, with links to where youll find
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
PASZW CONCENTRATION CAMP
The story of the Holocaust in
Krakw didnt end when the
Jewish Ghetto was liquidated.
Six to eight thousand Jews
were moved to this concentration camp within the citys limits, where the horror continued
to unfold. We have the most
exhaustive English-language guide to the site:
iyp.me/plaszow
LITERARY KRAKW
In October 2013 Krakw was designated a UNESCO
City of Literature. The citys resume includes the first
bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for
Literature - Czesaw Miosz and Wisawa Szymborska.
Our guide to Literary Krakw introduces you to the
citys most famous authors and best literary locales:
iyp.me/literarykrakow
STAINED GLASS
Some of Krakws most iconic
works of art arent applied on canvas or carved in stone, but composed of light and glass. Thanks to
local luminaries like Wyspiaski,
Mehoffer and eleski, Krakw is
home to some of the most aweinspiring windows in the world,
and we tell you where to find them here:
iyp.me/krakowstainedglass
MONUMENTS
ADAM MICKIEWICZ
One of the most important statues in Poland, the large
likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam
Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to
celebrate the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so
many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the
occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country! and
who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down
the road at Wawel.QC3, Rynek Gwny.
EROS BENDATO
Among Krakws most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a
photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits
the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head, the bronze
body parts official title is Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) and is
the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014). A student
of Tadeusz Kantor at the Krakw School of Art, an exhibition
of 14 of Mitorajs monumental works dressed the Rynek
from October 2003 to January 2004, during which the artist
gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what
to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building. Despite protest from historians and many locals,
the sculpture eventually found its current place near the
Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected
tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen
crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads
and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping
parents, though winter too often finds it profaned with
trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitorajs work will
find another of his large sculptures - titled Luci di Nara adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum
(ul. Grodzka 53, C-4), and another in front of the Krakw
Opera building (ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).QB3, Rynek Gwny.
POPE JOHN PAUL II

While this issues feature on the most important
Catholic pilgrimage sites in Krakw (p.6) includes
several related to John Paul II, on our website and blog
youll find more in-depth content dedicated exclusively
to JPII, including a video tour of sites in the Old Town
that allows you to literally follow in his footsteps:
iyp.me/thepope
blog.inyourpocket.com/poland/2015/09/jp2
youtube.com/watch?v=1qlJA4KqB2Q
Old Town
JAN MATEJKO
Unveiled as recently as November 2013, this monument

pays homage to one of Polands greatest painters, and one
of Krakws most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and
outsized historical paintings, which have been reproduced
enough to become imprinted within the national psyche,
Matejkos work can be seen throughout Krakw from
Collegium Novum to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
in the Cloth Hall (p.82), to the monumental polychrome
he did inside St. Marys Basilica in his final years. Educated
in Krakw and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts,
Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish
painters, including Wyspiaski, Mehoffer and Malczewski.
This impressive monument, which depicts the artist seated
within a large picture-frame, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and
located beside the Barbican along what was Matejkos daily
walk from his home to the Fine Arts Academy which now
bears his name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his
honour). To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and
museum at ul. Floriaska 41 (p.87).QD2, ul. Basztowa.
GRUNWALD MONUMENT
The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of
Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic
Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles
of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most
important military victories in Polish history. This weighty
monument was unveiled in front of an estimated 160,000
people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910.
Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulskis original masterpiece was
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the
copy you see today was made from his original sketches
and models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King
Wadysaw Jagieo, his sword pointing downwards in his
right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince
Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious
soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at the front is
Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Orders Grand Master,
who lost his life during the battle. Unfortunately, the
monument is currently being renovated and may be under
scaffolding during your visit.QD1, Pl. Matejki.
June - July 2016
81
Old Town
THE CLOTH HALL
The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market
square, the origins and development of Krakws Cloth
Hall can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a
structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century.
When King Kazimierz the Great approved construction
of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century,
Krakws importance as an east-west trading post
vastly increased and the city thrived. Though the
name Sukiennice literally refers to textiles and fabrics,
Krakws Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities
bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax,
spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from
the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a fire in the mid-16th
century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift
by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent
building in all of Krakw. By the mid-1870s, however,
Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and
the Cloth Hall was in a rather sorry state; the Austrians
tore down many of the outbuildings, and oversaw the
addition of the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades by Tomasz Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko.
The interior was converted into a series of wooden
stalls and in 1879 the first Polish National Museum was
established on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall
the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism.
The 20th century saw much of the 19th century
interior replaced, but by the start of the 21st century,
it was again in need of attention in order to meet the
standards of a modern museum or commercial area.
From 2006 to 2010, the interiors were given a complete
modernisation and the 19th Century Polish Art
Gallery (p.82) was reopened on the upper floor. The
buildings sloped attics were converted into lovely
terraces on the east side, where Cafe Sza (p.58) now
offers great views overlooking the market square and
St. Marys Basilica. Opened in 2010, the subterranean
Rynek Underground Museum (p.90) details the
historical development of the area around the market
square, and the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe on
the ground floor boasts Art Nouveau motifs by Jzef
Mehoffer. A stroll through the tourist stalls in the Cloth
Halls central thoroughfare is essential, after which you
can claim that youve been in worlds oldest shopping
mall.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, mnk.pl.
Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
MUSEUMS
The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while
Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta museums are listed in
their respective sections of the guide.
19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY
This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall

covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and
its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting.
Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small,
giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are
enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost
everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a
national treasure, and the collection also includes works
by Jacek Malczewski, Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw
Witkiewicz, as well as Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous
Frenzy from 1894 (pictured). Like a small slice of the Louvre
in Krakw, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a
visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the
market square. Recommended.QC3, Cloth Hall, Rynek
Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 16/9z,
family ticket 26z, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the
Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (1z
charge if you arent visiting the museum) - a great place
to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. As
for exhibits, they are a bit dated, but the museum does
boast the Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in
existence, part of an exhibit on the prehistory of Maopolska.
Other permanent exhibits include prehistoric pottery,
Peruvian artefacts, and ancient Egypt - the latter best
enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide (5z). Additionally,
youll find an exhibit on the history of the monastery and
museum itself (separate ticket required, 3/2z).QB4, ul.
Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow.pl.
Open 09:00 - 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 11:00 16:00; closed Sat. From July open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 30mins before
closing. Admission 9/6z, Sun free. YN
Old Town
ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL
KAROL WOJTYA
John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as Karol Wojtya, the
young priest with a penchant for skiing (his skis are on
show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms.
The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented
showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the
13th century. Among the items on display you will find
presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice,
but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal
enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by overzealous curators. Guided tours available for individuals and
groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. A
second branch of this museum - the Wojtya Apartment
at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4) - shows the apartment where the
future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open
Wed, Sat and Sun only 10:00 - 14:00, free admission).QC5,
ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.
muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket
12z. Guided tours 60z. N
BISHOP ERAZM CIOEK PALACE
Reopened after a 2015 renovation, this early 14th century
palace holds three permanent exhibitions: Krakw At
Your Fingertips, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th
Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic.
The first is a depository of local architectural sculpture
fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely
of sacral art from before the idea of art was applied to
non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did
that take?). Most of it came directly out of Krakws
own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly
superb, if thats your thing. If its not, its a bit of a snoozefest.QC5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free;
Sun free. UY
CELESTAT
This rather bonkers branch of the Krakw History Museum,
located in a small park near the bus station, has finally reopened. The permanent exhibit presents the history of
the uniquely Cracovian Fowler Brotherhood - essentially a
male-only cult of hunters and marksmen who wear strange
hats, worship a silver chicken and have their very own king.
In existence since the end of the 13th century, the history
of the Brotherhood and their role in the defence of the
city is laid out courtesy of a series of oil paintings, guns,
teapots, photographs and other relics, while inside the
Sharpshooters Hall youll see the object of their adoration
- a mystical silver chicken from the 16th century. Theres
plenty of fodder for a parody here, and the cock jokes
literally write themselves; well just say that despite being
well-presented, we left wondering why we had visited
sober on a nice day.QE2, ul. Lubicz 16, tel. (+48) 12 429
37 91, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z, Tue free. Y
June - July 2016
83
Old Town
FORMER GESTAPO CELLS
CITY DEFENSIVE WALLS

This small, seasonal museum is in turns uninformative
and overly informative, but basically it gives you a
chance to climb around whats left of Krakws 13th
century defensive walls. Intended as the first leg of a
combined visit with the nearby Barbican, youll pass
a few silly mannequins, watch a strange video, and
have some great photo opportunities over Floriaska
Street, while walking the short length of wall between
Krakws three surviving defensive towers, learning
about the 40-odd others demolished by the Austrians
in the 18th century.QD2, ul. Pijarska, tel. (+48) 12
421 13 61, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:00; closed
2nd Monday of each month. Admission 8/6z, family
ticket 16z. Ticket includes admission to the Barbican.
YN
Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska

offers the most chilling museum experience in Krakw
(which is saying something). Located in the Dom lski,
or Silesian House, this infamous building became the
Krakw headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII,
who converted its cellars into detention cells for the
interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These
cells have been preserved and are free and open to
the public as the Former Gestapo Cells - immediately
to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the
attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we
recommend you begin with the buildings main exhibit
People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,
entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard.
This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors
chronologically through the citys not-so-distant past,
illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and
Stalinist regimes in Krakw through an abundance of
documents, photographs, audio recordings and other
archival materials. From the first victims executed by
the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying
experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed
in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation
of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of
the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable
600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners
awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking,
sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of
hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you
might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so
prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human
tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience,
reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska
is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram
stop Plac Inwalidw.QH1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z, Tue free.
Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y
COLLEGIUM MAIUS
(JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY MUSEUM)
Jagiellonian Universitys oldest building (and one of
the oldest in Krakw), Collegium Maius was built as
the universitys main campus in the late 14th century,
36 years after the universitys founding. A century
later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure
surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that
has survived to this day. While professors lived and
worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture
halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in
the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today
a museum, visitors can explore the interiors and
exhibits on their own or reserve a place on one of the
daily guided tours for the same price. A full hour-long
tour in English is given Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12z),
while more basic 30-minute tours in English depart
every 20 minutes (12/6z); it is suggested, however,
that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself
a place on any of the tours. Inside youll visit the
lecture halls, common rooms, professors quarters,
library and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors,
paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments,
rectors maces and other university memorabilia
along the way, as well as the oldest surviving globe
to depict the Americas. There is also a separate
interactive exhibit about mathematics entitled
Everything...is a Number (open until June 15 09:00
- 13:30; closed Sun. Admission 7/5z). Another
highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock, from
which wooden historical figures appear and parade
past to music from the mid-16th century every two
hours between 09:00 and 17:00. The buildings
courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe, and dont
miss the peaceful Professors Garden just next door
(accessible via a beautiful painted passageway).
QB3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07,
www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:20; Tue,
Thu 10:00 - 17:20; closed Sun. Closed on June 10.
Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit, 16/12z
for entire museum. Admission free for self-guided
tours on Tue from 15:00 - 17:20. N
Old Town
EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE
Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten
Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was
opened in 2013 and houses the citys large collection of
European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting
lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo
Lottos 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the
consensus most-valuable foreign work in the possession of
Krakws National Museum, other highlights include John
the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The
Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early Renaissance
Italian paintings. While were happy to see this collection
find a permanent home, those who have seen their share
of European art museums can probably justify skipping
it.QA3, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57 60, mnk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 9/5z; family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
Sunday free. Y
HIPOLIT HOUSE
The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this
fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning
of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back
considerably further than that. The inside has been
transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish
bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century,
and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the
other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly
remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QC3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z. Wed
free. YN
HISTORY MUSEUM
Established in 1899, Krakws History Museum - also
known as Krzystofory Palace - has been undergoing
an extensive transformation over the last several years,
including the renovation of the 17th century Baroque
building that houses it, the complete digitisation of
the museum collection, and the preparation of a new
ambitious permanent exhibit. The first part of the
future permanent exhibit, titled Cyberteka. Krakw Time & Space, is now open and chronicles the spatial
and urban development of the city from its earliest
beginnings until about 1915, via spiffy multimedia
displays and 3D films. Krzystofory Palace is also home
to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs, posters,
books and other information available.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.mhk.pl.
Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8z,
family ticket 24z. Y

City Essentials App
THE PLANTY
Once the site of the citys 13th century defensive

fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and
the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of
the grand Floriaska Gate and impenetrable Barbican during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th
century. While today its easy to regret the short-sighted
destruction of Krakws medieval city walls, we can
thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely
strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old
Town. Known as the lungs of the city, the Planty is one
of Krakws most unique and charming features - three
kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees,
flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its
circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great
way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians
to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public
will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples
to make out, if you havent smooched someone on a
park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then
you havent finished your itinerary.QC4/5.
POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM
Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe,

this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a
premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related
not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage.
The museum features a new exhibition building bursting
with interactive displays and an extensive collection of
historic aircraft, plus a cinema. The original exhibits in
the airfields numerous hangars and out-buildings are
stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms and
plenty more airplanes, helicopters and gliders, while
the yards surrounding them are literally littered Russianbuilt fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While
many of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great
outing (Dads love it) that can take the most of a day to
explore thoroughly. A bit out of the centre, to get there
take tram 52 from Dworzec Gwny (D-2) to Muzeum
Lotnictwa.QAl. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel. (+48)
12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/7z, family ticket
34z; Tue free. YU
June - July 2016
85
Old Town
KRAKW STREET ART
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with

large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known
internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone
who makes the strongly recommended visit to Krakws
Poster Gallery (p.128) will easily discover why. With
such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles
would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And
they do. In Krakw, as in other cities around PL, street
art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity,
and in the last few years new street murals have become
a common sight around Krakws city centre. More
restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to
playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities
have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some
large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the
emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised
artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in
Krakws urban landscape between both sanctioned and
unsanctioned works of graffiti art and the prolific gang
signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint
crews have targeted in their war on vandalism.
At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have
little trouble tracking it down in Krakw, and were
making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our
print guide weve marked street art locations with a
spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to
give yourself a tour of Krakws urban art. Not only that,
but weve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at
iyp.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone
can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just
that, and check out some of Krakws alternative artistic
visions.
HOME ARMY MUSEUM

This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium)
to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the
size, organisation and efforts of Polands underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official
disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continuing fight for
freedom within the countrys two occupied zones (Nazi
and Soviet) is one of World War IIs less acknowledged
aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great
length to demonstrate that Polands government, military
and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling
exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result
you may want to dish out the 100z (plus ticket price) for a
guided tour. Nevertheless its a must for those interested
in WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours
for visiting.QJ1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410
07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
11/6z. Sun free for permanent exhibit. YU
HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM
Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the
very centre of Krakw, this branch of the Krakw National
Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish
numismatics - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes
and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski,
who once owned the place, also includes old books,
manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from
the medieval period to today. The displays are gorgeous
and additional info (in Polish and English) about each
artefact is conveyed via touchscreen computers. Guarded
by a fantastic gargoyle out front, the palace and gardens
have been stunningly restored, and April 2016 saw the
opening of the Jzef Czapski Pavilion - separate modern
exhibition hall behind the main palace, and home to a
biographical exhibit about Jzef Czapski (artist, author,
patriot and grandson of Emeryk), plus temporary exhibits.
Your ticket is good for both, but despite the world-class
displays, this one should probably be reserved for die hard
Polish patriots with a fascination for coin collecting. Is that
you?QA3, ul. Pisudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Old Town
JAN MATEJKO HOUSE
Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical painter whose
work and life is honoured in the house where he was born,
lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as
some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval life, studies
for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and
antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejkos life is
preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively
small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish
master, and a man of many parts, fans of Matejko should
definitely visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.82)
where many of his greatest works are displayed.QD3,
ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and students under
26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Y
NEW
JZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION
Opened in April 2016, this small modern building
behind the Hutten-Czapski Palace now comprises part
of the National Museums Czapski complex, along with
the gardens between the two buildings. Dedicated to
Jzef Czapski - an exiled Polish painter, patriot, writer,
critic, intellectual, Katy survivor and grandson of
Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection
is on display 100m away) - the permanent exhibit is a
biographical look at his life via the archival materials
and personal effects he left to the city upon his passing
in 1993. Theres also space for temporary exhibits, a
reconstruction of the artists room as it looked in France,
a reading room and cafe. Modern and gorgeously
presented, the National Museum has done a wonderful
job here; the only question is of what interest it will be
to the average foreign visitor. Tickets are also valid for the
Hutten-Czapski Museum.QA3, ul. Pisudskiego 12, tel.
(+48) 12 433 58 40, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, family
ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
RED IS BAD - ODZIE PATRIOTYCZNA

TOP-QUALITY SOUVENIR CLOTHING
WITH POLISH SYMBOLS
SZEWSKA 25, KRAKW
PON. - SOB. - 1100 - 1900
ND. - 1000 - 1500
Photo MNK, Miroslaw Zak
June - July 2016
87
Old Town
KOCIUSZKO MOUND
History produces few men like Tadeusz Kociuszko

(1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the
American War of Independence before inspiring a
valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this
relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas
Jefferson as the purest son of liberty that I have ever
known. Upon his passing, such was the peoples love
that they proposed to honour him with a monument
in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak
(p.104) and Wanda (p.111) - and to make it the grandest
in Krakw. Construction of an artificial burial mound
atop Bronisawa Hill in Zwierzyniec began with a mass,
followed by speeches; artefacts from Kociuszkos
illustrious life were placed, including soil from his many
battlefields, before friends, statesmen and foreign
dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For
the next three years people of all ages brought soil
from their villages to add to the mound. Though a
committee was formed for its oversight, the work was
all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November
1823, Kociuszko Mound stands 34m high, 326m above
sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be
seen from the top.
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities
built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they
used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later
threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they
set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along
with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress
were destroyed, the complex has been restored and
significant engineering improvements have been
made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is
tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile
reward. The surrounding fortifications also house two
cafes, a radio station, chapel, restaurant, wax museum
and five additional historical exhibitions. Admission to
all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound.
To get there take trams 1, 2 or 6 to Salwator, from
which its a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. w Bronisawa.
The walk is all uphill though, so if youre awaiting a
hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from
there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town
is about 30z.QF3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48)
12 425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. Mound
open 09:00 until dusk. Exhibits open 09:30 - 18:30.
Admission 12/10z, family ticket 30-40z.
JZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE

Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th centurys
artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating
with Wyspiaski on the interiors of numerous Krakw
churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia.
This, his house, was where the artists of the Moda
Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a
delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco
to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs
and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his
important artistic legacy. In warmer months you wont
find a more magical place to relax and read a book than
the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by
Meho Cafe - one of the citys best-kept secrets.QA2,
ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, mnk.pl.
family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and students under 26
(with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sunday free.
Y
MANGGHA
The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology
has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese
cultural centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks
Jasieskis fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese
artefacts. Located on the Wisa riverbanks across from
Wawel, the original exceedingly modern building was
funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda
upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987; July 2015 saw
the opening of the adjacent European - Far East Gallery,
which has doubled the space for temporary exhibits,
several of which are on at any given time (check their
website for specifics).QB6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel.
(+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15z, family ticket
35z, children age 7-16 1z (does not apply to groups),
group ticket 100z (up to 30 people), Tue free. Guided
tours 100z.
Old Town
NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING
Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians
would have us believe, previous generations of Poles have
in fact excelled in the arts, and the National Museum of
Art in Krakw showcases many superb examples of their
work. As well as a number of world-class temporary shows
(for which separate tickets are required, admission varies),
the museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied
arts and weaponry, and its entire top floor is devoted to
the permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a
truly awesome collection showcasing the works of such
visionaries as Kantor, Witkacy and Wyspiaski (whose epic
monument stands outside the entrance) that any gallery
would be proud to own. Aside from perhaps Wawel, this is
the largest museum in Krakw, so youd be wise to focus on
what youre most interested in; to see it all would take the
entire day. The museum also houses a small shop and caf.
QH3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
for permanent exhibits 11/6z, family ticket 20z, kids
7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under
7 free; Sun free. Admission for temporary exhibits, and
joint admission for permanent and temporary exhibits,
varies depending on the exhibit. YU
YOUR BEST DAY TRIPS
CRACOWTRAVELTOURS.COM
PHARMACY MUSEUM
Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Krakws
brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and
includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions
of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars
and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional
herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to
the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who
operated a pharmacy in the Krakw Ghetto during WWII.
Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting
than it sounds.QC2, ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421
92 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:30,
Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/6z. N
KRAKW
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Visitors should note that all
branches of the National Museum are free on Sundays,
and students under 26 (with
proper ID) pay only 1z all
other days. Also, ambitious
tourists can buy one ticket
that is valid for all branches
for six months for only 35/28z; thats a heck of a deal
and includes the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Bishop
Erazm Cioek Palace, Europeum, Hutten-Czapski Museum, Jan Matejko House, Jzef Czapski Pavilion, Jzef
Mehoffer House, the National Museum - Main Building,
and the Szoayski House.
KRYNICA-ZDRJ
hotelprezydent.com
RECOMMENDED
BY
MISS POLAND
June - July 2016
89
Old Town
TYSKIE BREWERY
The Tyskie Brewery, located some 10km south of

Katowice in the town of Tychy, has been brewing
beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally
German-owned, today Polands most famous brewery
produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually,
and 14 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager
- Polands bestselling beer. The enormous historical
brewing complex is one of Silesias architectural
marvels, much of which is open to the public for
guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a
humorous and informative guide, the Tyskie tour takes
visitors through the entire modern production process
and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning
in the Browarium (Brewery Museum). Housed inside
a red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902, this rather
superb space combines modernity and tradition across
several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of
brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of
historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia.
A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery
through the ages. Next your tour takes you through
parts of the production plant, starting from the Old
Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with
decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have
had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside
them. Highlights include saucy tales from the socalled Bachelors Quarters, a glimpse of the brewerys
own railway station and a look inside the fabulously
fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes
with a free pint in the on-site pub. Tours are available
in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech and Russian,
and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20z, take
the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, which includes
workshops and tastings with a beer expert.
RYNEK UNDERGROUND
This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four
metres under the surface of the market square to explore
the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that
predate todays Cloth Hall, and to experience the citys entire
history - from its first settlers right up today over the course
of some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the
museums popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only
300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought in
advance to avoid long queues or the disappointment of
no ticket availability. This can be done either online or from
the information office confusingly located on the opposite
side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual
museum entrance is located on the side opposite St. Marys
Basilica, of course, and once youve negotiated the scrum
of getting inside your experience begins with a short film
projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of
truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially
an archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens
and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into
life before Krakw received its charter and the market
square was laid out, displays on trade and transport in the
city, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance
by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11thcentury cemetery replete with vampire prevention burials
(seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view the
excellent series of short, subtitled documentaries covering
different ages of Krakows history at the end of the tour
route. In addition to the multilingual displays, audio guides
are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and
Spanish.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60,
www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00,
Tue 10:00 - 16:00; closed 2nd Mon of each month. Last
entrance 75 minutes before closing. Admission 19/16z,
family ticket 38 z, Tue free. Audioguide 5z. Y
STAINED GLASS MUSEUM
Located in the premises of S.G. eleskis historic stained
glass studio, this living museum offers the truly unique
opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop,
where youll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process
involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see
some superb designs and examples of finished works from
throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio.
Known as the cradle of Polish stained glass art, eleski
opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car

and the 85km journey takes about 1.5hrs. Alternatively,
the train takes about 3hrs and involves a change in
Katowice; the brewery is only a short walk from Tychy
train station.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32
327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl. Open 10:00
- 20:00; closed Sun. Last entrance 2.5hrs before
closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call
ahead to book a tour. Admission 15/10z.
Old Town
Moda Polska/Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including
such luminaries as Wyspiaski, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko
(nephew of Jan). Many of PLs most outstanding examples
of stained glass were created here, and today the studio
remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only
possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour
is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and English
(on the hour); stained glass workshops can also be arranged
(in Polish, English, French, Italian or German). The museum
now also includes a cafe and gift shop where you can pick
up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site in the
workshop. Though more expensive than other museums,
a visit is absolutely worth it for fans of the medium, as well
as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH3, Al. Krasiskiego 23, tel.
(+48) 512 93 79 79, stainedglass.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 32/24z per person in
English; 25/18z in Polish. N
From Japan to Europe exhibit in Szoajski House. Photo: Jacek Zoczowski
SZOAYSKI HOUSE
This well-located branch of the National Museum offers
several temporary exhibits at any given time. Presently, on
the ground floor is a small free exhibit that honours Krakws
Grand Dame of poetry Wisawa Szymborska by displaying
articles collected from her apartment after her passing
in 2012. At the moment, youll also find From Japan to
Europe. Beautiful and Convenient Things (12/9z, family
ticket 20z, Sun free) upstairs. The Tribecca cafe on the
ground floor is also a great place to recharge the batteries,
and the museum shop offers an array of artbooks.QB2,
Pl. Szczepaski 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. YU
TOWN HALL TOWER
After many fires, renovations and uncaring demolitions, the
only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining is
this 70m-high tower, proudly standing next to the Cloth
Hall. As a museum, it offers little aside from some medieval
costumes, black and white photos, information about the
clock at its top, decent views, and lots of stairs. With the
balconies off limits, you can take some so-so snaps by
leaning out the open windows, but they arent the calendar
quality panoramas you might be anticipating. Overall
wed say a visit here is over-priced, underwhelming, and
completely skippable.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48)
12 426 43 34, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:00; closed
first Tue of each month. Last entrance 30mins before
closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z. YN
June - July 2016
91
Wawel
Photo by Wojciech Gorgolewski
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the

hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings
in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and
not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely
Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and
Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment
of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic
architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards,
Wawel is the crown jewel of Krakws architectural treasures
and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that cant fail
to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of
which the former contains most, but by no means all of
the exhibitions, Wawels must-see highlights include the
Cathedrals mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of
Polands very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury
and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards
and gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard
work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.
All of Wawel will be closed on July 27. Also note that
visiting hours may change or be limited throughout
World Youth Days (July 26 - 31).
WAWEL CASTLE
Wawels prominence as a centre of political power predates
the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD.
Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a
fortified castle before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa
962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences.
The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the
teenage Wadysaw the Short (1306-1333) on January 20,
1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35
royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All
of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of
them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle
fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it
as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish
several buildings including a number of churches on the
site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a
number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation
works that continue to this day being halted for a number
of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as
the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans
Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Todays
Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.
The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true
architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful status as
a truly world-class city.QB5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422
51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel
CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY
Containing Polands very own equivalent of the Crown
Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury &
Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world
of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent.
To the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass
cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins
and other marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the countrys
original coronation sword - is the ultimate highlight. To
the right the Armoury contains a wealth of weaponry
including some exceedingly swanky crossbows and a
frightening array of spiky pikes, while the cellar holds
a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners
captured at the Battle of Grunwald.QOpen 09:30 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/11z,
Mon free but ticket still required; check ticket office
for availability.
LOST WAWEL
This smartly conceived and executed exhibit presents
the remaining fragments of medieval Wawel,
including remnants of the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary
(Krakws first church). A computer generated model
of Wawel gives visitors a peek into the early 10th
century construction.QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Mon
09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7z, Mon free
but ticket still required; check ticket office for
availability.
ORIENTAL ART
This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises
art from the Near East which was highly prized and
fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered
the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey,
Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique
collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain,
but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are
the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts
captured during King Jan Sobieski IIIs famous victory
over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including
Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Paras sabre.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/5z.
SANDOMIERSKA TOWER
One of Wawels two artillery towers, Sandomierska
Tower was built around 1460 to defend the castle
against attack from the south. A small chamber on
the third floor would have served as either a guards
lodging or a prison for nobles, whereas common
criminals were held in the dungeons. Recently opened
to tourists, climb the 137 winding steps for great photo
opportunities, particularly of the castle courtyard and
Cathedral.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. From July open
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 4z; children under 7 free.
Tickets are sold from a machine outside the entrance
(coins only).
The Senators Hall
Photo by Anna Stankiewicz
STATE ROOMS & ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS

Two collections in one, of which the latter is only
accessible on a specially conducted guided tour,
these are the rooms in which the royals once lived
and did their entertaining. The spectacular State
Rooms seemingly go on forever (reserve about 40mins
for visiting), and are full of luscious oil paintings,
intricate 16th-century Flemish tapestries, some truly
extraordinary wallpaper and the breathtaking Bird
Room. Highlights include the eerie Deputies Hall,
complete with 30 wooden representations of former
Krakw residents heads on the coffered ceiling and
an original throne that really brings the majesty of
Polands past to life. The Royal Private Apartments,
meanwhile, are equally stunning. Packed with
delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 4060min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest
Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch
wood ceiling, and the charmingly named Hens Foot
- two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere
Tower, which offer great views.QOpen 09:30 - 17:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission to State Rooms
18/11z. Royal Apartments 25/19z.
The renaissance courtyard at Wawel
Photo by Stanisaw Michta
June - July 2016
93
Wawel
WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE
Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve
tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one
day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at
the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least
30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are
self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however
foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost
if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pickup, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info
about various seasonal and theme tours on offer, pick
up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift
shop, cafe/restaurant and toilets.QB5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
WAWEL CATHEDRAL
The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral
is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral
was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly
after the founding of the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD.
Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral
that subsequently burnt down again. The current building
was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of
Polands first king to be crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the
Short (aka. Wadysaw the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who
was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor
in 1319. Considered the most important single building
in Poland, Wawels extraordinary Cathedral contains much
that is original, although many glorious additions have
been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning
as that of its cousin St. Marys on the Rynek, the interior
of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual
shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history
packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the
former Bishop of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a
suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial
cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18
chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as youre ever
likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century
Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter
and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as
Veit Stoss 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The
Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion
as the final resting place of kings and statesmen - most
recently former president Lech Kaczyski - while at the
top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast,
12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly
be heard 30km away.QB5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing.
Wawel Cathedral in bloom
Photo by Artur Turyna
ROYAL CRYPTS
While all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault.
He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in
the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains
of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases,
their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy
(and kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to
statesmen with Prince Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and
Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef Pisudski (1935) and General
Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place
here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria were controversially
interred here after the tragedy in Smolesk; admission to
their tomb (and that of Pisudski) is free. Descend the stairs
inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers,
beginning with the 11th century St. Leonards Crypt - the
best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back
outside.QB5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
CATHEDRAL TICKETS
The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices.
Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the
ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance.
While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you
will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts
and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these
as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides are
recommended to make the most of the experience, and
can be rented here for 7/5z (in Polish, English, German,
Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian).
QB5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z. Note that the
Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is
valid to visit another day.
Wawel
CATHEDRAL MUSEUM
Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before he became
Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features
a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th
century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the
Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions
is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the
funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of
coronation robes and royal insignias to boot.QB5, Wawel
2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.
pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
SIGISMUND BELL
Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs
to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding
symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphias Liberty
Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower,
Sigismunds Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total
tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm
in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm
thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of
King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav
and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland
and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national
holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like
the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyski and his wife)
the bells peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and
is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers
who are actually lifted from the ground by the bells force.
The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good
for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket
office across from the Cathedral entrance.QB5, Wawel
3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
DRAGONS DEN
Formed about 25 million years ago, the spectacular
limestone formation of Wawel Hill is not the solid piece
of rock it appears to be, but rather filled with eerie caves
and crawl spaces. As legend would have it, the craggy
chambers beneath Wawel were once home to Smok
Wawelski, or the Wawel Dragon, a particularly nasty
creature who liked nothing more than to gorge himself
on sheep and local maidens. Story goes that as the village
ran out of virgins, the King promised the hand of his
only daughter to the hero who could vanquish the vile
beast. Wave upon wave of brave knights fell beneath
the dragons fiery breath before a poor cobbler named
Krak tricked Smok into eating a sheep stuffed full of
sulphur, which instantly ignited inside his gullet. With
an unquenchable thirst the dragon went and drank half
the river before his distended belly exploded and the
town was freed of his wrath. Krak married the princess, of
course, became king, built his castle on the dragons lair
and the people built a city around it named Krakw after
their saviour king.
Smoks bones were hung

triumphantly outside the entrance
of the Cathedral, where they
remain today. His cave became
a famous tavern and brothel
during medieval times and today
functions as a tourist trap luring
families into its dripping, less than
awe-inspiring confines (kids love
it!). Save this for last since the
route through the caves leads you down a descending
staircase inside the castle courtyard to be later deposited
outside the complex on the riverbank below, right in front
of Smoks sculpted bronze likeness unveiled in 1972 to
a design by the local artist Bronisaw Chromy. It was once
possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into
temporary raptures of fire-breathing bliss, however he now
does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient
and dont look down his throat.QB5, Western, low end of
Wawel Hill, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
From July open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 3z. Tickets are
purchased from a machine outside the entrance (note
that it only takes coins and doesnt give change!).
LADY WITH AN ERMINE

Krakws prized art piece is
this Leonardo Da Vinci canvas
- one of only three Da Vinci
oil paintings in the world,
and a sentimental favourite
of Poles, reproduced and
hung in many a home.
Leonardos Lady has a
chequered history; when she
isnt entertaining she always
seems to be on the run or
in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the
map completely, before having a rendezvous with
Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in
1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home
to his native Poland, where she was part of the family
until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Krakws Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Krakw where she is
today one of the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel until its
proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened
after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in
depth information about its complicated history and
authenticity, the priceless painting requires a separate
admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be missed.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00; Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/8z.
June - July 2016
95
Kazimierz
Plac Nowy - the heart of the former Jewish district (page 92).
USEFUL CONTACTS
JEWISH COMMUNITY
The Jewish Community of Krakw is over 700 years
old and currently has around 140 members tasked
with maintaining Krakws Jewish culture, religious
sites, and organising community events and
gatherings. Shabbat services now take place every
Friday in the Remuh Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 40, E-6).
QD6, ul. Miodowa 27, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35,
www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE
The headquarters of Krakws strengthening Jewish
community. JCC organises numerous events (check
their website or FB for details), exhibits and tours.
Walk-ins are always welcome, but if you want to
participate in a Shabbat dinner you need to contact
them a few days in advance.QD6, ul. Miodowa 24,
tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www.jcckrakow.org. Open
10:00 - 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
JUDAICA FOUNDATION
This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits
reflecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a
cafe.QD6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49,
www.judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 14:00.
Kazimierz - the district south of the Old Town between the

Wisa River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisa
once flowed) - was the centre of Jewish life in Krakw for
over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed
during World War II. Neglected during the communist
era, Kazimierz became one of Krakws dodgiest districts
before its rediscovery in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the
regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven
Spielberg. Kazimierz has since been on the rebound and is
today arguably Krakws most exciting district - a bustling,
bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites,
atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Traces of Kazimierzs
Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in
the form of numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries.
In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war
Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district
has become a major tourist draw and could almost be
considered a pilgrimage site for Jews, which has led to the
return of contemporary Jewish culture to the area in recent
decades. Each summer since 1988 the massively popular
Jewish Culture Festival fills Kazimierzs streets and cafes with
music, while educating Krakws residents and guests about
the citys pre-war Jewish history and celebrating modern
Jewish culture. The fact that its one of the years biggest
parties proves that theres more to Kazimierz than sepia
photographs and old synagogues. Here youll find the heart
of Krakows artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden
shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries, and
in the obscure courtyard cafes and shadowy bars centered
around the former Jewish square known today as Plac
Nowy. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz
is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
Kazimierz
WHAT TO SEE
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area
start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka,
coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than
an actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval
marketplace; indeed it was here that Kazimierzs first
Jewish merchants settled, and the square is bookended
by two of the citys most important synagogues - the
Old Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue (p.100),
whose historic cemetery extends to ul. Miodowa and ul.
Jakuba. Ul. Szeroka 6 (now the Klezmer Hois hotel and
restaurant, p.46) formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a
ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567 when
the wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned.
Nearby beneath a ring of maples at the streets northern
end is a memorial and Place of meditation upon the
martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality
from Cracow. Today ul. Szerokas picturesque cobbled
lanes are primarily lined with businesses and restaurants
tastefully aimed at tourists like Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka
14) - so named because the Queen of Cosmetics was
born next door at number 14, and Dawno Temu Na
Kazimierzu (Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz, ul. Szeroka
1), with its row of faux Jewish shop fronts; next door
youll find Jarden (ul. Szeroka 2), the areas first Jewish
bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Jzefa just past the Old
Synagogue, youll find the High Synagogue (p.99)
at number 38, so called because the prayer room was
located on the first floor. Today it houses the Austeria
bookshop and a small exhibition space with rotating
historical exhibits about the history of Polands Jewish
population. Along this block of ul. Jzefa you can easily
spot indentations left by mezuzahs, and a Hebrew
inscription on the building next door to the High
Synagogue. Make a right onto ul. Kupa (literally Poop
Street in English, at least thats the PG version) to visit
the Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6, p.99), whose
restored interiors now house a permanent exhibition
titled In Memory of Polish Jews and a small shop
selling kosher food. In 1939 a member of the synagogue
committee was executed inside these halls after refusing
to set fire to it.
At the end of ul. Kupa at ul. Warszauera 8 (D-6) is the
17th century Kupa Synagogue (p.99), whose northern
wall was flush with the medieval Kazimierz defensive
walls which can still be seen from the other side on ul.
Miodowa. Its a short walk down ul. Warszauera from
there to Plac Nowy, (D-6, p.100), formerly known as Plac
ydowski (Jewish Square) and still today the districts
bustling epicentre, lined with bars, cafes and street food
stalls. To continue your tour head west out of the square
down ul. Meiselsa (D-6) to find what many regard as
Krakws most picturesque passageway on your left,
which should be immediately recognisable to many
as the backdrop of dramatic scenes from Spielbergs
Temple Synagogue
Schindlers List. Along the way youll pass the Judaica

Foundation (p.96) at ul. Meiselsa 17 and arguably
Krakws best beer garden (Mleczarnia, p.71) if youre
here during the warm season.
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do
also put aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul.
Miodowa 24, D-6, p.100), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul.
Dajwr 18, E-6, p.98) and New Jewish Cemetery (ul.
Miodowa 55, E-6, p.99) - all of which are nearby and
essential points of interest. Kazimierz is not exclusively
Jewish, however, with several noteworthy Catholic
churches moored in the district. The most noteworthy is
Skaka (ul. Skaeczna, C-7, p.7), where Bishop Stanisaw
of Szczepanw, was murdered and then quartered at
the whim of King Bolesaw the Bold; a blood-splattered
stump can allegedly be seen beside the altar. Stanisaw
went on in death to become the patron saint of Poland,
and Skaka is also the final resting place of local heroes
Czesaw Miosz and Stanisaw Wyspiaski. Kazimierz is
also home to some of Krakws most popular museums;
both the City Engineering Museum (ul. w. Wawrzyca
15, E-7) and Ethnographic Museum (Plac Wolnica 1,
D-7) are good choices for taking the kids and keeping
them entertained (p.98).
Szeroka Street
Ana Paula Hirama
June - July 2016
97
Kazimierz
MUSEUMS
PLAC WOLNICA
Ethnographic Museum
Perhaps Krakws most forgotten square, its hard

to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size
and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny. When laid out
as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski)
upon the towns establishment in 1335, this space
measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each
side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second largest
market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here
that all the administrative and judicial authorities of
Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco
to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace
it once was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since
the end of the 18th century when it was granted the
privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of
the squares original size. However, the Town Hall has
managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs
incorporation into Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was
taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated
it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th
century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended
Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the
once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods
around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierzs revival
over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become
more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken
derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with
more cafs and restaurants opening around its edges
and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz
with Podgrze over the river to the south.QD7.
Inside the Ethnographic Museum
Photo by Marcin Wsik
CITY ENGINEERING MUSEUM

This charming museum inside an old tram depot actually
features five separate permanent exhibitions, plus
temporary exhibits. The first two permanent exhibits deal
with the history of public transport in Krakw and the
development of the Polish automotive industry through
a hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large
collection of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores
the history of printing in Krakw from the 15th to 20th
centuries, the fourth is a look at engineering feats in the
city, while Around the Circle teaches kids fundamental
scientific principles via 30 hands-on play stations. More fun
than it sounds and recommended for families, the science
exhibit will hold kids interest long enough for Dad to look
at cars, while Mom dreams of escaping on that motorbike.
QE7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 42,
www.mimk.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Tue, Thu, Sun
10:00 - 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7z, family
ticket 29z. YUN
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this
often overlooked museum offers wonderful and charming
insight into Polish folk culture and rural traditions, including
beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant interiors, folk
costumes and instruments, and extraordinary examples
of local nativity cribs (szopki). A new exhibit called Odnowa (Anew) focusses on rural rituals of spring in Poland
(painted Easter eggs and palms), while Unattainable Earth
guides visitors through hundreds of works of folk art via
the words of Czesaw Miosz (taken from his poem of the
same name). With exhibits sufficiently explained in English,
those that visit here will be happily rewarded. A separate
gallery for changing exhibits can also be found nearby
at ul. Krakowska 46.QD7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12
430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00;
closed Mon. Admission 13/7z, Sun free for permanent
exhibitions. YUN
GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM
This popular museum keeps the memory of Jewish
life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive via
hundreds of photographs documenting former Jewish
sites in Galicia today. The images of forgotten cemeteries,
derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting
and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part
of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also
houses small temporary exhibits, a caf, information
point and a large bookstore selling a range of titles of
Jewish interest. From June watch for the opening of the
adjacent garden space, which will host events and further
exhibits.QE6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15/10z, family ticket 30z, children under
7 free. Guided tours (available in English and French)
for groups of over 10: 13.50/8z per person; individual
guided tours: 60z/30-45mins, 100z/60mins. YU
Kazimierz
SYNAGOGUES
& JEWISH CEMETERIES
HIGH SYNAGOGUE
The third oldest synagogue in Krakw, the High Synagogue
was completed in 1563, and is unique for having its prayer
room upstairs; its widely theorised that this was a safety
precaution to protect the congregation from unfriendly
neighbours. The design didnt save it from being the subject
of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain.
The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details,
however, including the Holy Ark, two golden griffins have
survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals
have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and
quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was
a magnificent space before its destruction. Today admission
is paid to go upstairs to the prayer room, where visitors will
also see a small temporary museum exhibit. On the ground
floor is a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a
variety of languages.QE6, ul. Jzefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430
68 89. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit
9/6z, children under 10 free.
ISAAC SYNAGOGUE
The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from
a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not
least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to
provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher
food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around
the back youll find Szalom Falafel - Krakws only kosher
fast food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21, open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri
10:00 - 15:00; closed Sat). Klezmer concerts take place here
Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun at 18:00 (60/40z).QE6, ul. Kupa 18,
tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl. Open
08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission
7/4z.
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
This rather unfortunately-named synagogue was founded
in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat
ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which
were told explains where the name Kupa comes from, but
doesnt change the fact that it translates to poop in Polish
(oh well). Designed in the Baroque style with a square
prayer room, the synagogue shared a wall with the original
Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can be seen from ul.
Miodowa. Undergoing several renovations and expansions
over the centuries, the synagogue was connected to the
adjacent building in the 19th century and meticulously
restored in 2000. The richly decorated interior features
paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places done by an
unknown artist in the 1920s.QD/E6, ul. Warszauera 8
(entrance from Miodowa), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.
krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 0 9:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 until
1hr before sunset; closed Sat. Admission 5/3z.
NEW JEWISH CEMETERY

This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was
the burial ground for many of Krakws distinguished Jews
in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a
darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population
between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are
actually no more than memorials to entire families that were
killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters.
The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the
walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newlylit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably
evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head
upon entry.QE5, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
10:00 until 1hr before sunset; closed Sat.
OLD SYNAGOGUE
Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, this is the
oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in
Poland, and home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase
the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. The English
explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on
the readers part and are therefore a perfect primer on the
subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah
enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are
also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop
sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Krakw in
a number of languages.QE6, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12
422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00
- 14:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission
10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
June - July 2016
99
Kazimierz
PLAC NOWY
While Krakws main square, Rynek Gwny, makes

all the postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in
Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual centre
of Krakw subculture. Lacking the splendour of
the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something
of an eyesore - a collection of unkempt buildings
surrounding a concrete square filled with chipped
green market stalls and rat-like pigeons flapping about.
If you want something completely different from the
Old Town, however, here it is.
Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didnt really begin
assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its
central landmark, the Okrglak (rotunda), added as late
as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by
locals as Plac ydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it
the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the
rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right
up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy
the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry
locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food
hatches to enjoy the best zapiekankiin Poland. Essentially
a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice,
visiting Krakw without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka
would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness.
Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and youll find
something happening here daily from 7:00 in the
morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but
weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays,
Sundays clothing market, and Friday mornings
bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo
essay waiting to happen, arrive between 06:00 and
09:00 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle,
How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise:
Krakws premier pub crawl circuit (see page 64). Full of
shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer and Alchemia
put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain two of the
squares best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique, while
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) dark and arty Mleczarnia
boasts the citys best beer garden. In recent years the bars
on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter
remains that this bohemian outpost is Krakws most
interesting and exciting nightlife destination.QD6.
REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY

Dating from 1553, this is Krakws smallest but most active
synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking
place here each Friday following the recent completion of
restoration works. The synagogue was established by the
family of famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles
- better known as the Rema, based on a Hebrew acronym,
and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery
adjacent to it. In use until 1800, this holy burial ground
maintains its original size, but fell into utter ruin during Nazi
occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving the
Second World War in their original state; among them was
that of Rabbi Moses Isserles, which many interpreted as
proof of his miraculous power. After the war the cemetery
was tidied up with many of the intact tombstones being
rearranged in straight rows, and fragments of those
which could not be restored used to create a wailing wall
along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery and synagogue
- which features a bright, airy unadorned prayer room,
reconstructed bimah, and reconstructed womens prayer
room - are an important pilgrimage site for devout Jews
from all over the world.QE6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12
429 57 35. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 until 1hr before
sunset; closed Sat. Admission 10/5z.
Inside the Temple Synagogue
Photo by Grzegorz Ziemianski
TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE
Kazimierzs newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with
several later expansions, the most recent of which was in
1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a
warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular
services were even held here until 1968, before stopping
completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded
woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and
occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the
annual Jewish Festival of Culture.QD6, ul. Miodowa 24,
tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00
until 1hr before sunset; closed Sat. Admission 10/5z.
TOURIST INFORMATION
INFOKRAKW KAZIMIERZ
Information on what to see and whats going on in
Kazimierz.QD6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48) 12 354 27 28,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Kazimierz
June - July 2016
101
Podgrze
Cross the Bernatek footbridge (J4) to explore what lies beyond the river in Podgrze.
When Spielberg came to Krakw to produce his awardwinning film Schindlers List, the result was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didnt reach across
the river to Podgrze, despite the fact most of the films
historic events took place there, as did much of the
filming. As Kazimierz became super-saturated with
tourists and bars, predictions were that Podgrze would
emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian district; however
aside from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow
to develop and for a long time getting off the beaten path
in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to Podgrze.
Since the opening of Schindlers Factory (p.104) as a
major attraction and the construction of the Bernatek
footbridge (E-7) creating a direct artery of tourist traffic
into the district, that has begun to change, but Podgrze
remains Krakws most mysterious and underappreciated
neighbourhood.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing

in Kazimierz were marched across the Silesian Uprisings
Bridge and crammed into what was to become known as
the Podgrze Ghetto (p.106). Traces of the Ghetto still exist,
including a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska
(p.107). Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the
Ghettos residents were murdered there, while others met
death in the nearby Liban quarry (p.105) and Paszw
concentration camp, or in the gas chambers of AuschwitzBirkenau and Beec. The opening of the Schindlers Factory
Museum has, in addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of
the Holocaust, finally endorsed Podgrzes status as a bona fide
tourist destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily
spend an entire day exploring Podgrze and a walk up into the
hills of Krzemionki behind old Podgrze is not only a great way
to getoff the beaten path- its also Krakws most evocative area.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual

attractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date
from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish
invasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgrze
levelled. Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the
Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually
incorporated as Krakws fourth district in 1915, and
the following decades saw its aggressive development;
quarries and brickworks were constructed, and a string
of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (p.105) is
the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (p.104), excavations of which have dated
it to the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent
history are what people most associate with the district.
ST. JOSEPHS
Presiding over the heart of historic Podgrze on the south
side of the districts main square, this unmissable neo-gothic
juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of
Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower,
elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of
saints, St. Josephs slender, yet imposing brick facade rates
among the most beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously
illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors
should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on
a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of
the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.QJ5, ul.
Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.
pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
CHURCHES
Podgrze
MUSEUMS
CRICOTEKA
Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist,
theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th
theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre
productions. In 1980 he created Cricoteka as a living
archive to document the achievements of himself and
his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened
its new headquarters here on the site of the former
Podgrze power station, with the aim of better presenting
his work and its impact on modern art and theatre. The
building itself is an apparent homage to his experimental
approach, literally hovering above the existing buildings
with a bizarre facade of rusted metal and black mirror.
Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional
site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall and
bookshop; as a result, a large amount of its programme
involves happenings, performances, workshops and other
live events (check their website for those). As a museum,
its difficult to recommend to those who arent already
familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental
theatre. Temporary exhibits show art apparently inspired
by Kantors ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the
evolution of Kantors increasingly eccentric career via stage
props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins)
and video footage. Free tablets with English-language
info are available for visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it
all resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public
opinion is notably divided.QJ4, ul. Nadwilaska 2, tel.
(+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 15z.
Y
LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE
Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been
a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during
the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here
under the auspices of not only glass bottle production
but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design.
During the 1970s Cracovian glass achieved international
renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour
and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national
glass research and production. The idea of an educational
museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing
technology has actually existed since 1972, and recent
investment has now made those collections open to
the public. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual
displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware,
but the highlight is the impressive Cracovian Glass Art
Collection of contemporary coloured glassware produced
here between 1931 and 1998. Live demonstrations of
glass hand-moulded in a blast furnace occur regularly
from 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. The ground floor
includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of
contemporary glass art.QK4, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12
423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Permanent exhibit and live
demonstrations 14/12z, exhibit only 8/6z.
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Opened in 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art

(MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with
comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind
Schindlers Factory, the building alone will impress with its
avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum
boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art
highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus a new
permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhols cult NYC
studio known as The Factory. There are also always several
provocative temporary exhibitions (see our Events section
for more info), and a large cafe and bookshop. Despite
the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself
plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QK4, ul.
Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Guided tours (80z) in
English and German available, but must be arranged by
phone in advance. YU
PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE
When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgrze in
1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterw Getta and its Polish
owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very
heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were
the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and
over the two years of the ghettos existence, Apteka Pod
Orem became an important centre of social life as well as
aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsified documents and
avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as one
of the Righteous Among the Nations) and his staff risked
their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing
witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy
as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately
June - July 2016
103
Podgrze
KRAKUS MOUND
The oldest structure in Krakw, Krakus Mound (Kopiec

Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in
the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible
panoramic views from its worn summit. 16m high, 60m
wide at the base and 8m wide at the top, Kraks Mound
has received some much-needed attention lately with
gravel now spread over what was formerly a very muddy
trail winding up to a bald peak. The site of pagan rituals
for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative
atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of
Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim
Liban quarry and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible
views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one
of Krakws least explored and most captivating areas and
should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding
detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most
easily from the Powstacw Wielopolskich tram stop via
ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K5), or
by following ul. Dembowskiego (J5) to the pedestrian
bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich to the base of
the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative
engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source
of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of
Krakws mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound
is said to have been constructed in honour of his death
when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with
sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an
artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the
landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological
studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and
verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though much
about the ingenuity of the mounds prehistoric engineers
was revealed, no trace of a grave was found; a bronze
belt from the 8th century was unearthed and there is
general agreement today that the mound was created
by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of
the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other
hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four smaller
mounds surrounded the base of Kraks mound, however
these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the
construction of the citys first fortress which surrounded
the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled
in 1954). The legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern
creation of burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski and
today it remains one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries.QK5, above ul. Maryewskiego.
liquidated. Today the building is a branch of the Krakw

Historical Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi
occupation, which through traditional and multimedia
displays, and extensive testimonials from both Poles and
Jews, heartrendingly describes life in the Krakw Ghetto.
Information is displayed inside the chests and cupboards
of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle
dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs,
heightening the reality of the events described and creating
a very intimate visiting experience. Though comprising only
5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent
museum.QJ4, Pl. Bohaterw Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656
56 25, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Note
that it is closed on the second Tuesday of every month.
Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
SCHINDLERS FACTORY
In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to
give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class
museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is
one which has been well-known since Steven Spielbergs film
Schindlers List (which was shot almost entirely in Krakw)
brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that
story is covered in detail on the original site where many events
took place, the museum actually casts the city of Krakw in the
main role of its permanent exhibition titled, Krakw During
Nazi Occupation 1939-1945. Individual histories of Krakws
wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which
covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate
of the Jews, the citys underground resistance and more, using
vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings,
period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other
exhibits change regularly, while a separate section of the
original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and
other events. A must-visit, Schindlers Factory is one of the
most fascinating museums in the entire country and we
recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see
everything. To get there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterw Getta (J4) and its a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kcik, under the train
overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and youre there.QK4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Mon 10:00 - 16:00; first Mon of each month 10:00 - 14:00.
Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing. Admission 21/16z,
family ticket 50z. Groups of over 15 people 18z (without
guide)/20z (with guide) and must book in advance. Mon
free for permanent exhibitions. Y
fotopolska.eu
Podgrze
PLACES OF INTEREST
FORT BENEDICT
The only surviving fortress of three that were built in
Podgrze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula
River and the road to Lww, Fort Benedict is one of
only a few citadels of the Maximillion Tower type left
anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery
tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area
of 1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on
Lasota Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts
church. The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the
1890s and has since been used as Austrian military
barracks and was even converted into apartments in
the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction,
filled with abandoned furniture and building materials.
After numerous projects involving the fort failed
to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been
transferred back to the city of Krakw, with plans for
its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding
to the scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most
surprising and strange corners.QK5, Lasota Hill.
PLAC BOHATERW GETTA
First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across
the river from the Powstacw lskich bridge has had
a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During the time of the Krakw Ghetto it was
at once the source of the residents greatest relief and
also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation.
As the ghettos largest open space, Plac Zgody was
a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the
oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also
the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations
to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following
deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac
Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and
other belongings that the victims had been forced to
abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign
of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac
Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto
Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the
spaces historical significance never felt more pertinent
than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot.
Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterw Getta
was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy
over the design. Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the
most iconic place in Podgrze. Laid out with 70 large
well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure,
as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has
essentially been turned into an evocative memorial to
the victims of the Krakw Ghetto. A place for candles
and reflection was also added within the small, former
bus terminal building at the north end of the square,
however it still goes sadly ignored (see if you can do
something about that).QJ4.
LIBAN QUARRY
One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Krakw,

the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of
remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp
that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers
adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for
exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to
slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl,
pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures,
the quarrys towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed
wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The Jewish limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis
established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the
19th century a complex of buildings had been established
inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi
occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as
a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to
perform grueling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small,
discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates
executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside
the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. During filming 34
barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the
quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently
removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with
the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making
it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as
you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by
assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at
your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound
toward Podgrze Cemetery along the rim of and into
the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though
there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry,
city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the
quarrys entrance have been known to deny entry or
ask people to leave.QJ/K5, ul. Za Torem.
June - July 2016
105
Jewish Ghetto
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre

of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an
important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews one quarter of the citys total population - who enjoyed the
citys relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish
community began almost immediately following German
occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an
increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights
and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were
arriving in Krakw from the rest of PL in the hope of finding
safety amidst the citys dense community. In October 1939,
the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result of
resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population was
reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the
economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
ESTABLISHMENT
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wchter, Governor of the Krakw
district, decreed the establishment of a new Jewish
Housing District on the right bank of the Wisa River in
the district of Podgrze. What would become known as
the Krakw or Podgrze Ghetto initially comprised an
approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320
mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgrzes historic
centre bound by the river and the Krzemionki hills to the
north and south, and between the Krakw-Paszw rail
line and Podgrzes market square to the east and west. In
the 17 days between the ghettos establishment and the
March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline, approximately 3,000
original residents of the district were relocated across the
river to be replaced by some 16,000 Jews, whose property
and possessions were confiscated with the exception
of what they could carry into the ghetto. Thousands of
unregistered Jews also illegally entered the ghetto seeking
protection, bringing the total population of the Krakw
Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one
apartment allocated for every four families and an average
of two square metres of living space per person. Windows
facing Aryan Podgrze were bricked or boarded up to

prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre
high wall was erected around the confines of the ghetto,
crowned with arches conscientiously designed to resemble
Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed
the ghetto - the main gate from Rynek Podgrski on
ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul.
Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rkawka and
ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of
ul. Lwowska and ul. Jzefiska (K-4), and another at Plac
Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterw Getta, J-4, p.105).
A tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made
no stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently
found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewiczs Pharmacy Under the
Eagle (p.103) on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked
outside the ghetto, particularly in the Zabocie industrial
district, which included Oskar Schindlers enamelware
factory at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4, p.104).
DEPORTATIONS
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move
to the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what
else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to
their families in the Krakw Ghetto.
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942,
the Nazis began to initiate The Final Solution - Hitlers
systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry.
May 29th 1942 was the first of ten days of terror within the
Krakw Ghetto as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all
documents were inspected. Those who couldnt produce
proper work permits were assembled on Plac Zgody
before being transferred to Paszw rail station, loaded
into cattle cars in groups of 120, and sent to Beec death
camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by the initial numbers, the
Germans continued their arbitrary round-ups for days. One
June 6th all previous documents were declared invalid
and ghetto occupants were required to apply for a new
Blauschein or Blue Pass; those that were denied likewise
met their deaths in Beec, including popular poet and
songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter
Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews
had been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot
in the streets. [The June deportations were one of the best
documented of such actions, however photos from the
events are still commonly misidentified as being taken
during the ghettos liquidation in March 1943.] Two weeks
later the area of the ghetto was reduced almost by half
Jewish Ghetto
to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and demarcated
by barbed wire. The increased density of the population
and increasing brutality of the Germans set off a wave of
suicides. Though some remained optimistic, worse was to
come. Work was also beginning on the nearby Paszw
labour camp, which would eventually portend the end of
the Krakw ghetto.
In late August and early September, 12-13,000 Jews (many
originating from Krakw) were also sent to Beec as the
ghettos in nearby Somniki and Wieliczka were liquidated.
Following these brutal events, the correlation between
deportation and death became fully understood perhaps
for the first time in Krakw. In October the Germans
announced that the Krakw ghetto would be consolidated
again and selections began anew, with no regard toward
employment status, age or health. Another 4,500 victims
were sent to their deaths in Beec, while some 600 were
shot inside the ghetto. With the liquidation of the ghetto
hospital, orphanage and elderly home, many orphans and
invalids were sent to the newly established Paszw labour
camp, only to be murdered on arrival. Afterwards the area
east of Plac Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a
month later the remaining territory was divided into two
sections: Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most
able-bodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable
and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A began
commuting daily to work on the construction of Paszw
labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Krakw
as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the camps
development hastened the ghettos demise.
LIQUIDATION
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the
Krakw Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000
Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were
immediately transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto
B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on
Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay
in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was
liquidated, refusing to abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of it
- was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape
were shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets
(some estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving
almost as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
TRACES OF THE GHETTO

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
Krakws most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983,
a commemorative plaque was raised, which reads in
Hebrew and Polish: Here they lived, suffered and died
at the hands of the German torturers. From here they
began their final journey to the death camps.QK4, ul.
Lwowska 25-29.
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of
the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground
behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego
60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of
the area should climb the steep trail leading from the
back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgrze
Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned
Fort Benedict.QK5, ul. Limanowskiego 62.
STARMACH GALLERY
Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick building
was one of four former prayer houses within the area
of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6
and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa
7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans
during the war (though it continued in secret) and
the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and
then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many
valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues
were transferred here for protection, however the
eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they
were looted and lost. After the war the building slowly
fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach
rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turning it
into one of the largest and most renowned private art
galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding
and a visit is highly recommended.QJ4, ul. Wgierska
5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach.eu. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The outline of the former ghetto

can be seen on our map, page 144.
June - July 2016
107
Nowa Huta
Nowa Hutas central promenade, Aleje R (p.111).
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the

huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct
antithesis of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and
tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta
is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities
ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural
Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate
social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed
up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the
ancient village of Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia
and Krzesawice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face
proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale
Krakw. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on
May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of
a model city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck
speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide, treelined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa
Hutas architects strove to construct the ideal city, with
ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood
blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western
metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb
was designed with efficient mutual control in mind: wide
streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion
of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the
layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949,
and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking
from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of

personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man,
Piotr Oaski, publicly credited with laying an stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was
tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first
winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the
foundations, and crime was rampant.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and Roses
Avenue.
Nowa Huta
WHAT TO SEE
Jump off a tram at the Plac Centralny stop, and find
yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to
1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin towered
over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac
Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism in
Poland was an important act of symbolism (cheered by
thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost
comic irony when the square he once stood on - and which
was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was officially redesignated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004. Speak to any
local, however, and youll still hear it referred to as Plac
Centralny. A walk around Plac Centralnys fearsome social
realist arcades brings you to several points of interest,
including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk
art shop (p.111). Also within easy walking distance is the
former witowid cinema, another social realist stalwart
that today houses the PRL Museum (p.110). Make it one
of your first stops before wandering back to Plac Centralny
and down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta District
Museum (p.111).
Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the
focal point for visitors, its the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1,
T-2) that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named
after. Employing some 40,000 people in its heyday the
Lenin Steelworks were capable of producing seven
million tonnes of steel annually, and boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Like Plac Centralny, the steel
mill entrance has been given the full socialist treatment,
flanked by two concrete monstrosities built to echo the
fine old buildings of Poland. Enjoy the view because youll
go no further; the steelworks are sadly off limits to tourists
at the moment.
Nowa Huta was meant to be a showcase socialist city,
but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity
and played a huge role in the Solidarity strikes of the early
1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to build the
citys first church; though it took 28 years, The Lords Ark
(p.110) was finally consecrated in 1977. While much of NH
is the product of the last half century, a true tour of the area
reveals a number of treasures of much older historical value.
The most epitomising example of a pre-steel age in the
area is Wandas Mound (p.111), a mysterious prehistoric
earthwork that proves the areas settlement predates that
of Krakws Old Town. The quiet neighbouring village of
Mogia meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished
religious sites in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery
and its morbidly miraculous cross.
GETTING TO NOWA HUTA

Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop, D-2) goes straight to Plac Centralny (O-4)
in about 20mins.
MEMORIES OF LENIN
While Krakws royal associations are common

knowledge, few know that Comrade Lenin quietly
called the city home from 1912-1914 before he was
arrested as an enemy of the state and imprisoned
in Nowy Targ. Released days later he returned to
Krakw to pack his bags and fled to Switzerland, only
to become one of the most famous names in world
history a few years later.
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible that during
his two years in Krakw Lenin may have visited the
area upon which Nowa Huta would later be built. He
made a high-profile postmortem return in 1954 when
the Steelworks were named after him, and in 1970
Marian Konieczny won a controversial commission
to build a monumental statue of him on Aleja R
(Roses Avenue); strangely, the artist was at that
time living in Lenins former flat. Konieczny spent
three years creating a stunning seven tonne statue
of Lenin striding purposefully forward down Nowa
Hutas main thoroughfare with his raincoat open and
brow furrowed. The people of Nowa Huta, however,
were unimpressed, and the statue soon became the
focus of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old
bicycle, battered pair of boots and a handwritten note
were left below the statue which read, Take these old
boots, get on the bike and get the hell out of Nowa
Huta. In 1979 a bomb was planted at his feet, though
the only casualty proved to be a local man who died
of shock after being awoken by the blast. During
Martial Law (Dec. 1981 - July 1983) more attempts to
destroy Lenins statue were thwarted, and it doggedly
survived an effort to pull it down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was
lifted by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a
disused fort until a Swedish philanthropist bought
the monument for 100,000 Swedish crowns, and
had it shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm. In
2014, as part of the ArtBoom festival, a mock-up of
the striding Lenin monument was again temporarily
erected on Roses Avenue, with a few key differences:
this one was a miniature neon yellow fountain of
Lenin urinating.
June - July 2016
109
Nowa Huta
THE LORDS ARK
Built between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house

of worship was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was
pieced together brick by brick by volunteer workers
with no assistance from the communist authorities.
The complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant
to stand for, The Lords Ark (Arka Pana) is a remarkable
building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in
Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to the
locals to mix cement with spades, and find the two
million stones needed for the churchs facade. The
first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol
Wojtya, who would later assume fame as Pope John
Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump
delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and shells had to
be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th 1977, the
church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs Ark,
with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the
middle, the church houses an array of curious treasures,
including a stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the
Vatican, a tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile
brought back from the moon by the crew of Apollo
11, and a controversial statue of Christ that shows
him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. If
you think thats odd, check out the statue dedicated
to Our Lady the Armoured - a half metre sculpture
made from ten kilogrammes of shrapnel removed
from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte
Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church became a focal
point during anti-communist protests, not least for the
shelter it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting
during the period of Martial Law was dangerous
business, as proven by the monument dedicated to
Bogdan Wosik opposite the church. Wosik was shot
in the chest by security services, and later died of his
injuries. His death outraged the people, and his funeral
was attended by 20,000 mourners. The monument
commemorating the site of his death was erected
in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during
this period. In 2012 Krakw City Council awarded Arka
Pana the Cracoviae Merenti silver medallion for its
significance to the citys history.QN1, ul. Obrocw
Krzya 1, www.arkapana.pl. Open 06:00 - 19:00. No
visiting during mass please.
MUSEUMS
MUSEUM OF THE ARMED ACT
Essentially the Nowa Huta Military Museum, here youll
find several dusty exhibits dedicated to Nowa Huta natives
who fought and died for their nation. In Polish only,
though theres an English language brochure, most of the
displays might not mean much to those lacking a healthy
interest in the detritus and paraphernalia of war, but its
well worth popping in (its free after all) if only for a look
at the intriguing and grotesque models of life under the
Nazis during WWII. Youll know youve found it when you
see the imposing Soviet tank out front.QO1, os. Grali
23, tel. (+48) 696 72 91 25, www.mczz.3-2-1.pl. Open
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
PRL MUSEUM
In development for years, this museum inside the
former Kino wiatowid - a local landmark in social realist
architecture, completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish
history between the years 1944 and 1989, telling the
story of everyday life during the countrys communist era.
Though the building is awaiting further renovations, part
of the permanent exhibit has now been installed in the
basement, while temporary exhibits occupy the ground
floor. Due to a lack of English translations the temporary
exhibits are unlikely to engage tourists much, but descend
into the former cinemas cellars for the intriguing Nuclear
Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta exhibit. There are actually
some 250 shelters beneath NH - enough to accommodate
every resident in the district - and this is the largest
in Krakw. Well-translated throughout, including an
instructive film with English subtitles, here youll learn
about the very organised and intricate plan Poland had
for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the Cold
War, and the role every citizen would play in such an event.
If youre from the West, its akin to mild culture shock, and
the space itself is impressively vast. Within easy walking
distance from Plac Centralny, if youve made the trip out
to NH theres no reason not to make a stop here. Szpeje a small shop inside selling genuine antiques from the PRL
era - is an added bonus.QO4, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48)
12 446 78 21, www.mprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/7z; Tue free.
TOURS
CRAZY GUIDES
Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta:
experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one of the worlds
only centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc
Trabant 601 automobile. Considering the large size and
somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around
the district on your own, this may be the best way to
get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.Qtel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Communism
Tour 139z per person.
Nowa Huta
NOWA HUTA MUSEUM
This small museum features sweet neon signage and
a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and
culture of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the
area, here you can also pick up plenty of information
about NH, and they arrange sightseeing tours of the
district as well.QO2, os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel.
(+48) 12 425 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z, family ticket 12z, Wed
free. YUN
PLAC CENTRALNY
PLACES OF INTEREST
WANDAS MOUND
Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949,
Wandas Mound (Kopiec Wandy) is indisputable
evidence that the history of the area goes back much
further. In fact, the village of Mogia, which Wandas
Mound is near the historical centre of, has been inhabited
since 5000 BC without interruption, while archaeologists
date the settlement of Krakws Old Town much later
in the 8th century. Together with Krakus Mound in
Podgrze (K-5) - Krakws other prehistoric earthwork Wandas Mound plays a role in one of Polands greatest
archaeological mysteries as the mounds date of
construction, builders and function all remain a subject
of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both
mounds were erected sometime between the 6th and
10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial
mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that
they were created as burial mounds which later became
cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout
of modern Krakw, the location of the two mounds
can hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop
Wandas Mound on the evening of the summer solstice,
the sun can be seen setting in a direct line behind
Krakus Mound.
Off a major road behind a handy tram stop (station
Kopiec Wandy - tram 21 takes you there, but you
must request the stop), Wandas Mound is a conical
earthwork rising 14m with a winding path to the top,
adorned by a small monument from the 19th century
by Jan Matejko who lived in the Krzesawice Manor
nearby. The victim of general neglect and geographical
trespasses, Wandas Mound today lies just outside the
fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir steel plant,
of which unglamorous glimpses can be seen through
the trees. The view to the southwest is an improvement,
where Krakus Mound and Podgrze can be seen in the
distance, though Wandas Mound unfortunately doesnt
offer sweeping views of the same calibre as Krakws
other mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is
in need of development, not to mention some proper
modern archaeological studies; behind the mound is a
footpath leading to the right towards one of Krakws
hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but, honestly, it
just gives us the creeps.QT4, Near intersection of ul.
Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
The centre of Nowa Hutas architectural layout,

Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the districts
primary landmark and one of social realisms highest
architectural achievements, despite never being
completed. The two main structures of the square
were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini
PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at
the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though
the designs were in place, none saw development.
Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja
R (Roses Avenue, O-3) - was never fully realised, and
terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine
example of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings
lining the way, youll find several curiosities. First and
foremost, dont miss the gorgeously restored Markiza
neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana
Pawa II (O-4). Though the cake shop it advertised is
long gone, the sign stanmds out as the areas most
nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the
most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00,
closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design,
this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to
the original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal
chandeliers and a coffer ceiling with colourful handpainted ceramic plates. The character of this place
hasnt changed a bit and as such its a great place to
buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesawiec pottery,
and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Across the street is a
typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era
worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you
think that cant be topped, only a few doors down
behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous
Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in
NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive
restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same
spirit as the day it opened with an interior that hasnt
changed in well over 30 years.QO4.
June - July 2016
111
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
A visit to the salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy
your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the
outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your
language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine:
the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and
the Underground Museum which takes an additional
hour to visit. In between theres an opportunity to take a
break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat
(or escape if thats your preference). However, be aware
that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many
tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they
are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground
Museum (which you have already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz
Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miners lingo effectively means God be with you and
substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular

tourist cities in Central Europe, and as youve likely heard,
one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually
located in Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to
the southeast. An astounding 1.2 million people visit
Wieliczka Salt Mine each year (thats one out of every
seven or eight visitors to Krakw), and its hardly a recent
phenomenonpeople have been visiting the salt mine
for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus
Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and
former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official
tourist trail opened underground here way back in the
mid-19th century. But its not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in
a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as
their number one favourite thing about Krakw; again,
not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres
away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it
has the distinction of having been included (along with
Krakws Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCOs
first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know,
back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique
industrial heritage site has been a popular destination
for centuries and if youre visiting Krakw, you should
also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka, which
in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a health
resort, castle and museum.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden

stairs (dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the
first level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only
takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with
the 3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including both
parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm.
While wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels youll
gain insight from your guide into the history of the site,
the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the
men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive
blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila).
The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in
which almost everything around you is made from rock
salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and
stringy stalactites that hang down. The highlight of the
tour is the magnificent 22,000m St. Kingas Chapel dating
from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics,
the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New
Testament done by miners that display an astonishing
amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that
holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high
enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at
GETTING TO WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east
out of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city
limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15
minutes. Alternatively, a new train service direct from
Krakws main train station to within walking distance
of the mine makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever
for tourists. Trains leave every 30mins, the journey time
is only about 20mins, and tickets are 3.00z each way.
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA HISTORY
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding
area lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea.
Unfortunately the beaches are gone, but left behind
were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of
metres underground by tectonic movements. Though
cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an
extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to
its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient
sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there
was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their
duties were said to be worth their salt and the word
salary comes from the Latin word salarium used to
describe their salty wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface
pools in the regions surrounding Krakw can be
traced back to the middle Neolithic era (3500 BC),
but it was the discovery of underground rock salt in
the 13th century that led to the rapid development
of the area. Underground extraction began in
nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on
an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon
both cities had earned municipal rights and by
the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks
was established to manage both mines, with its
headquarters in the Wieliczka Castle complex.
One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow
Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown
for the next 500 years until the first partition of
Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the
16th and 17th centuries when it employed some
2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes
and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the
revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production
was further increased by mechanising the mining
works with steam and later electric machinery, and
the first tourist route was opened. By the 20th century
however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary
protection works had begun to destabilise the mines
condition and the market value of salt no longer made
it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock
salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite
the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins,
explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26
access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual
levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers
had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels
reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground.
Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative
engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist
purposes.
the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which

point you should be instructed on your two options: how
to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second
part of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned
or unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the
Underground Museum and ask them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past

the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the
queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that
shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate
area to the right for those that want to continue on to
the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily
recommend). Your original guide should admit you into
the museum exhibition which comprises an additional
16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts
and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate
on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of
the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful
exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century
Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling
salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back
to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to
where you started.Qul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel.
(+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 07:30 19:30. Admission 84/64z; taking photos is an additional
10z. In addition to the popular Tourist Route described
above, several other routes are offered including a
handicap-accessible route, a route for children, and the
Miners Route (open 09:30 - 18:00) - an interactive tour
in which tourists are assigned a role by the foreman/tour
guide and experience the daily routines, rituals and secrets
of working underground.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Auschwitz
The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater

community, largely bypassed by world events. That
changed with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz
under German occupation, became the chosen site of
the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1
million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here,
etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history
books and countless films, documentaries, books and
survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective
consciousness.
Visitors to Krakw are faced with asking themselves
whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz.
It is a difficult question. There are few who would say
they actually want to visit Auschwitz, though many are
compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us
who dont feel so compelled, its easy to give reasons for not
going: not having enough time, already knowing as much
as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally
connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit,
or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site
of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds
of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all
of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly
reasonable until youve actually visited the site; youll be
hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and
still argues against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps
spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by
the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how
much you think you know on the subject, the perspective
gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you
choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However
it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of
Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy
concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern.
As such, we believe everyone should visit.
VISITING AUSCHWITZ
If youve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have
three options: visit as part of a group organised by a
Krakw tourist agency, visit independently and join
a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently
for free without a guide. Unfortunately, a new online
reservation system now makes the latter two options
much more difficult than in the past. All visits must
now be booked in advance through the website visit.
auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no
tickets available because they have all been snatched
up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets
online doesnt mean you cant visit Auschwitz when you
want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour
through an outside provider. This isnt necessarily a bad
thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how
to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying
a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it
is worth it.
June - July 2016
115
Auschwitz
GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ
If you are determined to visit independently you need

to know that from April to October the museum makes
it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr
guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 or after
15:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free
on your own. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend
the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and
professional; afterwards youll find it hard to imagine
getting as much out of your visit had you explored the
grounds on your own.
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways

to get to Owicim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be
signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of
Krakw-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours
or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly;
providing transportation, tickets and general guidance,
the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate
significant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1);
most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not
all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up
at the Owicim bus station which is at the other end of
town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 12z.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between
Krakw and Owicim, with a journey time of 1hr
45mins - 1hr 55mins and a cost of about 8.50z; note,
however, that early trains to Owicim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers
24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3z) from
the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle
visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15z.
Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31
50 77) can take you back to Krakw from either camp a group of eight would pay about 30-40z/person.
Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online),

but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also
regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish
and Spanish; tours in languages other than those just
mentioned can also be easily arranged if done in advance
through the website.
ALSO IN OWICIM
AUSCHWITZ JEWISH MUSEUM
& SYNAGOGUE
If you have more time to spend in Owicim, head
to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving
in the centre of Owicim) for more information on
the towns Jewish heritage, including a permanent
exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II.
Located near Owicims market square 3km from the
Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored
programmes for those plan their visits in advance,
and theres a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the
warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6z, family ticket
15z, kids 6 and under free.
If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, find

the queue for the desk marked Individual Guests. After
purchasing your ticket and headphones, your experience
typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of
narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they
arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not
recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed
year-round however, in which case your guided tour
of the camp will begin straightaway with a live guide
speaking into a microphone which you hear through your
headphones. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide it is
highly recommended that you dont get there later than
15:30, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5z)
whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of
the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous
bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare
accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz
I takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II;
in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch
that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day
(though there is some limited food available at the museum).
The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours.
Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk
or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz
I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar
and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz
II-Birkenau.Qul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim, tel.
(+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Auschwitz I open
08:00 - 19:00; last entrance 1hr before closing. Auschwitz
II - Birkenau open 08:00 - 20:00; last entrance 1.5hrs before
closing. Both camps closed July 20-29 and Aug 1-3
except for groups in association with World Youth Day. An
individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both
camps costs 45/35z. Tours for groups range from 300-450z
depending on size. The film costs 4/3z. Official guidebook
5z. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either
camp is free.
Auschwitz
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific
suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated
in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who perished.
The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber
and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of
burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp
commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.
AUSCHWITZ I
Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a
replica of the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You
Free) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made
by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on
display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in
pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From
the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past
the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as
prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside
Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind
the worlds most notorious concentration camp is given,
with exhibits including original architectural sketches for
gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and
mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes
of human hair once destined for German factories, which
does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the
Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some
of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of
artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits
and, most affectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines
the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs,
artists drawings and tools used for hard labour while the
next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured
by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the
floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a
poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.
AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU
Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some
visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II Birkenau, however its here that the impact of Auschwitz
can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude
of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained
300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered
175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on
January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubberstamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews,
it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the
Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly
into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour
lived in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation,
disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives.
With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to
hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with
all gas chambers having been dynamited and living
quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate for
a full impression of the complexs size. Directly to the
right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area,
while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick
barracks which were home to the penal colony and also
the womens camp. At the far end of the camp lie the
mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak
monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief
guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and
reflect on their own before catching the return bus to
Auschwitz I.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably

the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazis conducted their experiments
with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of
Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death
after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with
a small memorial, and tiny standing cells measuring 90 x
90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time - remain intact.
June - July 2016
117
Tarnw
Tarnw market square and Town Hall. Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw lies the charming and

hospitable city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size,
Tarnw is absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many
of the same cultural and architectural charms without the
crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of
herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist
market the size of Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers
tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and
the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In
addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which
includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and
Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnw visitors
will discover several unique and worthwhile museums,
wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a
scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical
monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in
Tarnws Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in
the citys small, but evocative Jewish district and large
Jewish Cemetery. While the towns nightlife may not have
the sizzle of Krakw, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and
restaurants where youll find it easy to meet friendly local
folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a
good impression to foreigners. All told its enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnw
also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other
nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dbno,
the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. Youll
find more information on Tarnw and all the surrounding
area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.
com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at
the Tourist Information Office when you arrive and pick up
a copy of IYPs special Tarnw mini-guide.
EAT & DRINK

SOPRANO
This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. The best seats in the
house are in the lush garden - where you can watch the
chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this your dinner
destination in lousy weather as well. The soups are delicious
and come with fresh olive bread, and our beef cheeks were
a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money you can
spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still a heck of a bargain.
QC5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 09 09, www.
soprano-tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00; Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-48z). TUGBSW
RDMIECIE PUB
Formerly the vaguely Art-Deco Pasa restaurant, the owners
have stripped the fittings to open rdmiecie - the most
exciting bar opening in Tarnw in recent memory. Despite
the demo work, theyve kept the curves and large circular
booths of the old design, filling in around them with trendy
trappings like exposed brickwork, colourful retro wallpaper,
unique light fixtures and random marquee signs. Theres a
changing stable of Polish microbrews, an excellent menu of
cheap pub eats - including fish n chips, burgers and panini,
and teles for league matches, plus weekly promotions
and other events to keep things interesting. The whole
package, rdmiecie has basically set a new standard for
the competition going forward.QD4, Pl. Kazimierza Wlk.
2 (entrance from Pasa Tertila), tel. (+48) 14 627 82 78.
Open 17:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. GBW
Tarnw
SIGHTSEEING
CATHEDRAL
Dating from the 14th century with major additions and
rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest
of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city,
must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in
Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive
several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and
Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and
the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference
when getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on
the southern side of the building, and a large monument
of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QD4, Pl.
Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.
tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Open 09:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 18:30
(except Sundays). No visiting during mass please.
DIOCESAN MUSEUM
To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Church needs art
to better understand what lies inside the soul of man, and
Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888,
does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing
collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards,
housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16thcentury houses, the museums most precious artefact
is the original alter from St. Leonards church in nearby
Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at
the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some
truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience.QD4,
Pl. Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00; Sun
09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
TARNW DISTRICT MUSEUM - MAIN BRANCH
The new headquarters of the many branches of the
Tarnw District Museum, located in an historical building
right on the Rynek, this museum currently hosts rotating
temporary exhibits, and is the permanent home Tarnws
collection of fragments of the Transylvania Panorama - a
lost masterpiece painted on an epic scale depicting local
hero Jzef Bems victory at the Battle of Sibiu during
the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. Displayed in Lww,
Budapest and then Warsaw, regrettably in 1928 the
enormous panoramic canvas was cut into 100 pieces, the
majority of which have yet to be recovered. A pet project
of the Tarnw District Museum, the museum currently
possesses 15 out of the 36 fragments which have been
located.QD4, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00
- 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00; closed Mon. Admission
8/5z, family ticket 16z; Sun free for the permanent
exhibition (Transylvania Panorama). N
GETTING TO TARNW
Only 80km east of Krakw, Tarnw is most easily
reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new
A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from
Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with the
first leaving as early as 06:45 and the last bus back to
Krakw departing at 21:35; the journey takes between
1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Tarnw is also served by some
30 or so trains every day from Krakw, with a journey
time of between 90 and 145 minutes depending on
whether you take a local or express train.
MARKETS
Located at the intersection of several trade routes,

Tarnw has been home to a large marketplace since
medieval times. In addition to the actual market square,
the city has had an open-air market just south of the
Rynek at the bottom of the Great Stairs for centuries.
Known locally as the Burek, this area actually extends
for several blocks and includes several small squares
and pavilions selling all manner of goods, from food
and flowers to clothing and cosmetics. Whatever it is,
whether its worth anything or not, you can get it at
the Burek - and a trip here is the quintessential Tarnw
shopping experience.
The name Burek officially refers to the fruit, produce,
meat and dairy market on Plac Bema, which was
recently modernised - dont miss the charming
Organ Grinder (pictured). Beyond it, however, youll
also find the large Hala Targowa (or Hala Miejska as
its also called) clothing market as well as some other
random merchants hawking their wares in the vicinity.
Have some change and small bills handy, as asking
the vendors to break a 100z note is unlikely to win
any smiles. Opening hours vary and some vendors
open and close as they please, but the general rule is
to get there early, as trade dries up by mid-afternoon.
June - July 2016
119
Tarnw
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your
first port of call on arrival. Here (and on their multi-lingual
website) youll find a wide range of free information on
Tarnw and the surrounding region, free internet (browse
away), bicycle rental, luggage lockers, souvenirs, and theres
even accommodation available upstairs. If youre interested
in a gadget-led tour, theres the Tarnw Wooden
Architecture App, nine different audio tours, and a GPS
guide. The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic
English-speaking staff can give you whatever additional
information or advice you cant find here, so dont be shy.
QD4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.
travel. Open 08:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN
Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets

and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is
the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four
sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from
the 16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnws
hejna - a short traditional melody - is played every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a
good investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved
Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive
tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging
its northern edge and featuring several interesting
buildings as well as a number of monuments. In the
spring and summer the Rynek comes to life with tables
and chairs from the local businesses lining it, and has a
warm and welcoming appeal.QD4.
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
As well as highlighting
local ethnographic traditions, this better than
average collection includes a large celebration
of Roma (Gypsy) culture,
which is allegedly the
only such collection in Europe. A truly fascinating, if
slightly dated, exhibition
tracing Roma culture in
Poland from its beginnings in the 15th century
to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and beyond, the
three rooms that make up the exhibition include some
excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs;
with about 350 Roma living in the Tarnw area, their
culture is still very much alive locally. In the museums
back garden youll find several traditionally painted
gypsy caravans.QC5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14
622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00;
closed Mon. Admission 8/5z, family ticket 16z; Sun
free. N
TOWN HALL MUSEUM
Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this
extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass,
porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive
collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in
the country. Sarmatism, if youre wondering, was a
beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology
that predominated the Polish nobility from the
17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and
rather amusing belief that Poles were descended
from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes,
Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from
a set of values based on pacifism into a full-blown
warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding,
outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish
Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches.
The Town Hall Tower can also be ascended if arranged
ahead of time, and offers panoramic views for a small
extra fee.QD4, Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49,
www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed,
Fri 09:00 - 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Museum admission 8/5z, family ticket 16z, Sun free
for permanent exhibition; tower admission 10/5z;
museum and tower 15/8z. UN
MUSEUM TICKETS
Note that all Tarnw museums are free on Sundays,
while on other days of the week a special sweetheart
ticket good for the Town Hall, District Museum, and
Ethnography Museum is available for only 16/10z.
Leisure
Visit KRK Bike Rental to get on some wheels and go explore Krakws scenic river boulevards.
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens (p.63) is probably

the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section
is geared more for those looking for outdoor activities
on a beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one.
Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities
thanks to several unique green spaces in the Old Town,
particularly the Planty (p.85) and Bonia (p.136). Krakws
unique and mysterious earthwork mounds also provide
interesting outdoor sightseeing opportunities near the
city centre - check out Krakus (p.104) or Kociuszko
Mound (p.88).
BIKE RENTAL
CRUISING KRAKW
Bike rentals 25-50z for 3 hours; each additional hour
5-20z; entire day 45-110z - prices depend on the type
of bike. Bike tours also arranged daily, no reservation
necessary, just meet at the Mickiewicz monument on the
market square at 12:00 (from June 16 at 11:00 and 15:00).
Segway tours also now available from the address listed.
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 6, tel. (+48) 12 265 81 05, www.
cruisingkrakow.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
KRK BIKE RENTAL
This small bike rental just off the market square rents
standard bikes for 9z/hr, 50z/day; tandems and bikes with
child seats also available.QB3, ul. w. Anny 4, tel. (+48)
509 26 77 33, www.krkbikerental.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
BOAT RENTAL
& RIVER CRUISES
AQUA FUN
Regular river cruises between Bielany-Zwierzyniec and
Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 25/20z; 1hr,
35/30z) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper
deck (1hr, 35/25z). Both gondola and boat rides run from
11:00 to 18:00 approximately every half hour, however
rides dont leave until a sufficient number of people are
on-board. All are speaker-equipped with an audio tour and
can be rented privately. Night cruises and private trips with
live folk or klezmer music can also be arranged in advance.
QB6, Bulwar Czerwieski Marina (near Grunwaldzki
Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.statek-krakow.pl.
WATER EQUIPMENT RENTAL
Water equipment rental for a variety of sports and
persuasions, including 40- and 12-person boats, 4-person
motorboats, canoe and kayak rental (20z/hr), as well as
4-person pedalos (30z/hr). Kayaking tours also organised.
Interested parties should always call in advance.QH3, SKS
Nadwilaska Marina near ul. Kociuszki 16, tel. (+48)
606 22 55 55, www.rejspowisle.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
/polandinyourpocket
Leisure
BOWLING & BILLIARDS
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in the basement of a modern building right on
Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Krakw. With
only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations
are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish
microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant
upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are
55, 75 or 95z depending on the day of the week and time
of day.QD6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www.
placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
THE STAGE
Krakws most atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is
much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the evenings
this laid-back hangout often hosts events including
concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals
rack em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front
of the street-side windows. Conference and company
events also organised.QB1, ul. obzowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 681 63 85, www.thestage.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. Cost
of a table ranges between 15-23z/hr depending on the
time of day.
INDOOR ATTRACTIONS
NEW
KRAKOW PINBALL MUSEUM
Obscurely hidden in a courtyard cellar, this old school
pinball arcade features 50 beautiful pinball machines, plus
a scattering of other old school arcade games just for good
measure. Though a well-stocked bar makes their use of the
term museum seem a bit liberal, its clear that the aim here
is to create a family-friendly attraction for supple-wristed
nostalgics, rather than what could probably be one of
the most popular bars in the neighbourhood if it stayed
open later. All the machines in their interactive exhibit
are available for free unlimited play (no coins necessary!),
but there is a rather hefty admission price, only somewhat
offset by the fact that your ticket is good for re-entry all
day. A great game for all ages, and a wonderful blast to the
past (some of the machines are over 40 years old), specific
pinball machines in their collection include Terminator 2,
Star Trek, Dr. Who, Indiana Jones, Jurassic Park and Dirty
Harry.QC6, ul. Stradomska 15, tel. (+48) 608 04 10 00.
family ticket 100z, kids under 7 free when accompanied
by an adult.
KRAKW WATER PARK (PARK WODNY)
The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water
slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains,
climbing walls, wave machines, and other in-water
activities, Probably the thing your kid will remember most
about Krakw, you might not have such a bad time yourself
with access to the saunas, jacuzzis, a fitness centre and a
pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors
KRYSPINW
Krakws favourite summer sun destination is the
artificial beaches at Kryspinw Lagoon. With no less
than four separate sandy pitches on the reservoir
(though note that only one beach is watched by
lifeguards), there is plenty of space here for everyone,
despite the areas immense popularity. About 12km
away and well-connected to Krakw, Kryspinw
also features a range of attractions including water
sports equipment and boat rental, windsurfing and
wakeboarding instruction (available in English),
zorbing and quads, flyboarding, playgrounds, a ropes
course, beach volleyball and tennis courts, and plenty
of drinking and eating options, including Skansen
Smakw - a traditional Polish tavern. Its also a
popular party destination on summer weekends,
organising numerous events throughout the season.
Though outside city limits, you can still get there by
Krakw public transit; simply take bus 209 from the
Salwator tram roundabout (G-3) to the Budzy Zalew
na Piaskach stop; or bus 269 from Salwator to the
Budzy Plaa Gwna bus stop. Note that both stops
are by request and that you need a 3.80z ticket that
covers both zones I and II.QLiszki, tel. (+48) 12 292
75 53, www.kryspinow.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
Entry 12/6z, family tickets 20z, kids under 6 free; all
tickets half-price after 17:00. Parking 10z.
June - July 2016
123
Leisure
OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS
BOTANICAL GARDEN
Covering almost 10 hectares, Polands oldest botanical
gardens date from 1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing
daytime escape from the city. Extensive flora-filled paths
wind between fountains, herb and rose gardens, lilypadded ponds, and a 250-year-old oak tree - the last
remnant of primaeval forests which once covered the
entire region. A humid greenhouse (open 10:00 - 18:00;
closed Fri) hides all manner of exotic flora, including a
macabre collection of carnivorous plants, while a series
of outdoor classical music concerts takes place in the
warmer months. A great place for a romantic rendezvous
or finding some peace and quiet.QJ2, ul. Kopernika 27,
tel. (+48) 12 663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Open
09:00 - 19:00. Admission 8/5z, 15z family ticket. N
KRAKW ZOO
First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park
offering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of
almost 300 species, but its still manageable in size. Most
of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of the
surrounding Wolski Forest - making this a great sunny day
activity - and theres surprisingly little to get depressed
about. Among the rare, exotic and endangered species
youll see are Indian elephants, pygmy hippopotami,
South American sea lions, giraffes, camels, dwarf caimans
and a surprisingly impressive array of brightly-plumed
pheasants (our favourite). Theres also a petting zoo,
and some unavoidable snack bars. Bus 134 leaves about
every 30mins from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy, H-3) and
drops you off at the entrance. Open 09:00 - 19:00 at press
time, but hours will be extended as the days get longer.
Qul. Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48)
12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Last entrance 1
hour before closing. Admission 18/10z.
STANISAW LEM SCIENCE GARDEN
A fun, interactive, educational park for kids named after
late, local sci-fi author Stanisaw Lem. The 7 hectare
science park features different stations engaging kids in
optical illusions and the laws of physics. Recent additions
include a geological garden, a garden of fragrances and a
labyrinth. Explanations at each station are in English and
Polish, and guides (English) are available for an additional
25z if you call three days in advance. Reserve 90 minutes
to visit the park in its entirety and get there via trams
1, 14 or 22, getting off at the M1 Al. Pokoju stop;
alternatively, a cab from the centre is about 25z.QAl.
Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 346 12 85, www.
ogroddoswiadczen.pl. Open 08:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing.
Admission 10/7z, children under 7 free. Family ticket
29z. Combined ticket for the Science Garden and the
City Engineering Museum 15/10z. Y
dunk each other. Prices are 20-26z for one hour, 41-59z for
day access (recommended - one hour just isnt enough);
note that saunas and fitness centre arean additional charge,
and that on weekends this place is absolutely packed.
QL1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90,
www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
LASER PARK
Run amuck in the industrial wasteland around Schindlers
Factory known as Zabocie dodging laser beams and
zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a computer system
to register hits from the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated
gunfight within this highly unique setting. Prices are
complex and as follows: Mon-Thu 25/20z for 30mins,
40/35z for 60mins; Fri-Sun 35z for 30mins, 55z for 60mins.
Groups (10 players minimum) Mon-Thu 400z, Fri-Sun
600z.QI4, ul. Zabocie 20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01 30, www.
laserpark.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
LET ME OUT
Escape games have become popular all across Europe, and
now Poland as well. Not for the claustrophobic, this exciting
challenge involves being willfully locked in a room and
using the clues around you to solve a series of puzzles, find
the key and free yourself as the clock ticks down from 45
minutes. Can you use your logic, problem-solving skills and
a bit of teamwork to escape in time? Let Me Out Krakw
offers three completely different rooms to choose from
for groups of 2-4 people; price 99z per group, per game.
QA2, ul. Jzefa Szujskiego 6/4, tel. (+48) 788 55 61 50,
www.letmeout.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
LOST SOULS ALLEY
This year-round haunted house just off of the market square
takes you on a terrifying tour through a nightmare gallery
of sickening situations and encroaching peril. Participants
must work together to make their way through ten rooms
(most of which are locked and you must find a key to free
yourself and escape) of a creepy ramshackle apartment
full of blood-spattered beds, hacked-off limbs, moaning
invalids and reaching hands. This isnt a campy, Hollywood
creature-feature brand of horror, but a gruesome asylum
full of tortured patients, and twisted tenants; the scares
are less of the pop-and-shock variety, and more effecting
of psychological dread as you frantically fumble your way
forward knowing that terrifying shadows are closing in
on you from all sides. Incredibly well-done and effectively
horrifying, as soon as you enter you just want to make it to
the end. Doing so takes about 20mins, and we recommend
this haunted house for anyone 15 and over who loves a
serious scare. The best way to arrange a visit is to call in
advance. Discreetly hidden through a passageway off the
main street, past a strip club, and up a creepy set of stairs
on the first floor, visit if you dare.QC3, ul. Floriaska 6,
tel. (+48) 666 98 60 69, www.lostsoulsalley.com. Open
12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Prices range from 1830z/per person depending on how many are in the
group.
Leisure
SPA & BEAUTY
CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic
circulation, release physical and mental
tension, strengthen the immune
system, improve joint flexibility and
remove toxins from your body with
an authentic Thai massage, performed
solely by highly qualified Thai
masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The
offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,
oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder
and head massages, and more. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket.QE4, ul. Dietla 103/2,
tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300z.
BOOK-A-BALANCE MOBILE SPA
This mobile spa service brings the pampering straight to
you. Qualified and experienced professionals arrive at your
apartment or hotel room with all the necessary equipment
to make you feel like royalty, ensuring that you literally
dont have to lift a finger beyond making the call. Offering
a range of massages (130-310z) and beauty treatments
(100-160z).Qtel. (+48) 503 63 39 03, www.book-abalance.pl. Available 7 days a week between 08:00 and
22:00.
THAI SMILE MASSAGE
Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages
performed by certified masseuses that will leave you
feeling energised and balanced. If youve never had
an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - its
an incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to
do with a friend, partner or family member. Most
massages are done in loose, non-constraining
clothes to make you as comfortable as possible, and
incorporate aspects of Thai traditional medicine,
acupressure, yoga and even Buddhism. Give it a try
and discover the wonder of getting an invigorating
full body workout without doing a thing.QD6, ul.
Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65, www.
thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
VANILLA SPA
This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star
Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind
and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in
relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of
peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and
munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of the Vanilla
Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath,
and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation
to have their experts create your own personal care
programme.QH4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl.
Open 10:00 - 21:00.
www.Thai-Smile.pl
TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE
+48 531 905 965

Krakw, Krakowska 3/1
10% off on 1h massage with this guide

June - July 2016
125
Shopping
Outfit yourself with a colourful Polish folk costume in Krakuska Sztuka Ludowa (p.129).
While Krakw can hardly be considered a shoppers

paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes
it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery.
Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open air markets particularly Plac Targowy (E-4), while the Cloth Hall (open
roughly 10:00 - 20:00, C-3) in the middle of the market
square is obvious for typical local souvenirs. For the generic
western experience you can hit one of the shopping
malls we list, however throughout this section weve
made a concentrated effort to focus not on recognised,
international brands and franchises, but unique, homegrown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money
where their mouth is. As this is PL, remember many shops
close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.
The Global Blue Card

Your Passport to Great
Savings, The World Over
(more information at gbs website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler

2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 300 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE

SHOPPING SERVICE
www.globalblue.com
ALCOHOL & TOBACCO

NEW
LA CASA DEL HABANO
Peruse the best selection of hand-rolled Cuban cigars in
southern Poland, plus smoking accessories and a wide
selection of single malt whiskies, rum, cognac and port.
The exceedingly knowledgeable and hospitable staff will
help you with those tough decisions, and even make you
want to stay and sample the goods in their comfortable,
classy cigar lounge and bar. A great place to unfurl a few
friendly hours, and pick up some refined gifts.QC2, ul.
Sawkowska 26, tel. (+48) 790 80 29 30, www.lcdh.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00.
youtube.com/inyourpocket
SZAMBELAN
A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they
can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle
and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty...
wait, no). Sample first, sample often.QC3, ul. Gobia
2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93,
www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Shopping
AMBER & JEWELLERY
NEW
LILOU
A Polish jewellery brand which has become popular across
the world for their customised jewellery - primarily pendants,
charms and chains - which can be engraved on-site with
whatever special message you are able to dream up. Glamorous
but not intimidating, Lilou jewellery is made of 14 karat gold,
925 silver or 23 karat plated-gold, and their Krakw boutique
is staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist you with
your decision.QC3, ul. w. Tomasza 27, tel. (+48) 12 312 13
93, www.lilouparis.com/en. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
WORLD OF AMBER
Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is
inextricable from the history of Poland and Krakw. Baltic
amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Krakws
location on the Amber Route means youve got one of the
best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers.
Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really
is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from
rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul.
Floriaska 13 and 22 (C-3), and ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton
Hotel, A-5).QC4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14,
www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
ART & ANTIQUES

Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work
to tourists right on the market square, and along ul.
Pijarska on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2).
ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY
These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny
cartoons by Polands favourite cartoonist and Krakw native
Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you
know. Ideal for Polish friends and family, but many of the
cartoons are universal enough to make great presents and
souvenirs for anyone on your list, and can be bought as original
prints, or printed on mugs, shirts, bedding sets, posters and
more - even boardgames.QC2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel. (+48)
12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
BOOKS IN ENGLISH
Massolit
MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAF

The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe,
owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With
books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East
European and Jewish literature in English, here youll also
find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to
peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of
wine. Stocked with remaindered books from the States,
the selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the
best youll find anywhere. This legendary establishment
has been long-running but constantly needs and deserves
support. Still if youre on a budget you can trade the novel
you finished on the train for credit towards a new one.
Also look for their bakery nearby at ul. Smolesk 17 (A-4).
QA4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.
massolit.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
June - July 2016
127
Shopping
BUTIK LCS - GUCCI, SAINT LAURENT, CHLO,
JIMMY CHOO, DSQUARED2, KENZO, STELLA
McCARTNEY, MCQ, JUST CAVALLI, EMPORIO
ARMANI, PAUL SMITH, ETRO, ANDR GRAND COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881, THOMPSON LONDON,
VERSACE, BAGATT, DIESEL, DIAMANTI, IPM
DESIGN - MULHOLLAND LIFE, PURE, KISS THE
FROG, D.EFECT, MELISSA, LOCCITANE, LOOKBOOK
MOKOBELLE, LOUVE WITH EVOLUE ROBERT
KUPISZ, PAPROCKI & BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA
BACZYSKA, UKASZ JEMIO, 303 AVENUE,
NATALIA JAROSZYSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR,
MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI, NESPRESSO, TUTTI
COLORI - MONALISA, CARAMELLA, MINI
MELLISA, BUNNY WHITE, VINICIO PAJARO,
WOLFORD, LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13,
DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13
GALERIA PLAKATU (POSTER GALLERY)

Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film and
theatre. Here you can browse binders of hundreds of designs
for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks. Many
are in stock and many more available to order online. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards.QC3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel.
(+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com. Open
11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
GALERIA PRZY SAWKOWSKIEJ
A new place for contemporary art in Krakw, in association
with the Wojciech Weiss Museum Foundation, this first
floor gallery showcases new and promising artists in
excellent exhibitions that change monthly. All work is for
sale, and other services include portraits by order and
furniture restoration.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 12, tel. (+48)
500 51 08 89. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00; Sun
hours vary - call to confirm.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES

IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE
The idea here is promoting contemporary, young,
independent Polish artists and designers - and for once
were not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This
shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic
style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Krakws
hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other
than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop
in this expansive and sexy 230m2 concept store just off
Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and accessories by
independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish
fibre arts, interior design and more.QE7, ul. Bocheska
7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13

OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM
www.pasaz-13.pl
www.concept13.pl
RED IS BAD
Weve never quite seen anything like this before. Depending
on your political views, this might just be a shop that sells
shirts...or it might be something more than that. Red is Bad
themselves call it freedom apparel - shirts, hats, hoodies,
bags and other items with overtly patriotic images and
slogans, some of them subtle, some of them not so much.
This is not cheap souvenir store swag, but Polish-designers
creating high-quality uber-nationalist urban apparel
collections. Pick up shirts celebrating the Home Army,
Warsaw Uprising (and several other Uprisings), the Polish
calvary, Witold Pilecki, ancient kings and more for your
super-proud relatives or in-laws.QB3, ul. Szewska 25,
tel. (+48) 12 422 10 89, www.redisbad.pl. Open 09:00 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Full contents online:

Shopping
FOOD & SWEETS
DELIKATESY 13
Located in the basement of Krakws nicest, most central
shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range
of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of
Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils
and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made
preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are
also made daily. The ideal place to go if youre planning an
intimate dinner part, Delikatesy 13 is packed with outstanding
goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers a top selection.
QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27,
www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
KRAKOWSKI KREDENS
An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite,
Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured
meats, candies and pickled things. This is the perfect place
to pick up handsomely packaged, unequivocally Cracovian
consumable goodies, and, when available, a warm roll with
their sliced pork and mustard from the street-side window
is actually a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9z
(depending on weight). Also in the Galeria Krakowska and
Bonarka City Centre shopping malls.QC3, ul. Grodzka 7,
tel. (+48) 696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE)
Your best and easiest bet for gifts in Krakw. Essentially
the worlds oldest shopping mall, inside this architectural
marvel in the middle of the market square youll find
dozens of stalls selling amber jewellery, lacework, cloth
handicrafts, wood carvings, sheepskin rugs and all sorts of
Polish souvenirs and trinkets at prices that are actually more
reasonable than youd anticipate.QC3, Rynek Gwny
1/3. Open 10:00 - 20:00, but really its up to the vendors.
KRAKUSKA SZTUKA LUDOWA
This fantastic folk shop is only a minute from the market
square and features a more diverse range of decentlypriced quality souvenirs than youll find almost anywhere
else: weavings, tapestries, rugs and embroidery,
Bolesawiec ceramic, old fashioned toys and trinkets, paper
cutouts, postcards, painted glass, chess sets, folk costumes
and more.QB3, ul. Szewska 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
ROCK SHOP
You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe,
and is there anything which says Ive been there more than
a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw tee to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St.
Marys Basilica. Classic white costs 99z, black 115z, but the
memory of buying it - priceless.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl.
Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/
krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
POLISH VODKA
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka

since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find in any
alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WINIWKA
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
winiwka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. Youll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
ODKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under
the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, ambercoloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
odkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed
when sipped on ice.
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
UBRWKA
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Biaowiea Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly combined
with apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
June - July 2016
129
Shopping
MARKETS
PLAC NOWY
This historic square was a Jewish market in the
pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In
the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse
produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings
you never know what youll find: Saturdays are junk/
antiques, on Sundays its all clothing, while Friday
mornings its a full-on pigeon fair from 06:00 - 09:00.
Other markets begin around 07:00 and generally
end by early to mid-afternoon, depending. In the
evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one of the best drinking
destinations in town, lined with atmospheric bars.
QD6, www.placnowy.pl.
PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG
Known locally as Hala Targowa, this is the citys best
outdoor market. Open every day with everything
from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs,
dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, Sunday is
undoubtedly the best, but also the most crazy day of
the week at Hala Targowa, when it becomes a sprawling
full-blown flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic
icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia,
mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much
anything you can dream of at negotiable prices.
Different vendors set their own hours, but on weekends
most are here shortly after dawn and packing up
anytime between 14:00 and sunset. At night on Plac
Targowy youll find two 24-hour alcky shops and the
best grilled kiebasa in town (open 20:00 - 03:00,
closed Sun), sold from a van.QE4, ul. Grzegrzecka,
tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl.
HOME & DESIGN

NEW
FORUM DESIGNU
Freshly relocated into the trendy Tytano complex - a
former tobacco factory turned urban design centre, this
large, spacious showroom for Polish interior design and
home accessories is one of the most fashionable places in
town. Though some European firms are represented, the
emphasis here is on unique local design using sustainable
production methods, and the result is a gorgeous, not-atall petite sales boutique. An added bonus is the attached
Forum Mody fashion showroom, and together they
organise numerous design fairs, workshops and other
events throughout the year.QI4, ul. Dolnych Mynw 10,
tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www.forumdesignu.com. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
NEW
SZPEJE
Located in Nowa Hutas PRL Museum, this small boutique
suits its surroundings, specialising as it does in vintage
Polish design from the communist era. For fans of 60s, 70s
and 80s PRL design - which is now enjoying a comeback
- this shop is a treasure trove of retro furniture, pottery,
glassware, toys, records, hi-fi, posters, books and more.
Most importantly, everything in the shop is original, not
reproductions. Certainly this vintage swag has never looked
better than it does today, detached from the economic
desperation of the era it was produced in. Contemporary
Polish society is ready to embrace communist design, so
check it out.QO4, Os. Centrum E 1 (PRL Museum), tel.
(+48) 798 50 44 58. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
SHOPPING MALLS
BONARKA CITY CENTER
Located just beyond the limits of the IYP map (imaginary
coordinates K6), Bonarka offers 91,000m2 of retail space
with 190 shops including Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Media
Expert and 186 others, 20 restaurants and cafes, the
largest cinema complex in the city and 3,200 free parking
spaces. Built on the site of a former chemical plant - the
STARY KLEPARZ
A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered
marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local
produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices,
socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities
are the order of the day during your visit.QC/D1,
Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www.
starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
Shopping
iconic smokestack of which remains - the heart of this
city within a city features eight two-storey palm trees
flanking a fountain under a glass ceiling. To get there take
buses 144, 169, 173, 174, 179 or 184 getting off at the
Bonarka stop.Qul. Kamieskiego 11 (Podgrze), tel.
(+48) 12 298 60 00, www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open
10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY OUTLET
15 minutes from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120
foreign and domestic brands - including Levis, Reserved,
Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Simple, Pepe
Jeans, New Balance and more - at 30-70% off the prices
youd expect elsewhere. You can get there by catching a
free bus from Rondo Matecznego (I5) or Plac Centralny
(O-4).Qul. Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12
297 35 00, krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.

City Essentials App
GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
Opened in 2005, Galeria Kazimierz is still Krakws most
likeable shopping centre, boasting over 130 retail units
including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion
outfitters H&M, Zara and Simple, jewellers W. Kruk and
Swarovski, Alma supermarket, plus plenty of food options.
For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness
club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have
1,600 paid parking spaces to pick from.QJ3, ul. Podgrska
34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KRAKOWSKA
Hard to miss since its been sneakily incorporated into the
train station, making it one of the most centrally located
shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors,
stores include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Saturn, Carrefour
and over 260 other retail units, 1400 parking spaces, and
a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front
of it also host frequent exhibits and events, contributing
to the revival of this once-dodgy area.QD1, ul. Pawia 5,
tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PASA 13
This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a
snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first
branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Much nicer
than your typical shopping mall, Pasa 13 has over a dozen
designer shops to peruse, plus a fine Italian delicatessen
and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant in the cellar, which
have their own hours.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48)
12 617 02 27, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
June - July 2016
131
Directory
24HR PHARMACIES
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIE

QI5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, www.
doz.pl.
DENMARKQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73

80, www.nordichouse.pl.
APTEKA POD OPATRZNOCI

QB2, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
24HR SHOPS
ALBI MARKET
QB3, ul. Podwale 6.
FINLANDQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,

www.nordichouse.pl.
GERMANYQC3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30
00, www.krakau.diplo.de.
HUNGARYQE2, ul. Lubicz 17 H, tel. (+48) 12 359 99 20.
ICELANDQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
CARREFOUR EXPRESS
QD6, ul. Dietla 40, www.carrefour.pl.
INSTYTUT FRANCUSKIQC4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel.

(+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.
SPAR
QA1, ul. Karmelicka 47.
JAPANQI2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43

59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
MEXICOQul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 505

03 49 49.
NORWAYQK2, ul. Mosinicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
RUSSIAQB1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.krakow.mid.ru.
SLOVAKIAQD3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Currency exchange offices (Kantor) are easy to find

in Krakw, but as with any international destination,
its imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve
vetted local exchange offices for you and assembled a
list of well-located kantors that wont rip you off, and
dont take a commission. In Krakws Old Town, youll
find kantors all along ul. Floriaska (C-2/3), but its two
streets over on ul. Sawkowska (C-2) that youll find
better, more competitive prices - this is the best place
to go rate hunting near the market square.
KANTORQD1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
KANTORQJ3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
KANTOR CFSQD2, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430
33 33. Open 24hrs.
KANTOR GROSZQC2, ul. Sawkowska 4, tel. (+48)
12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SWEDENQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,

www.nordichouse.pl.
UKQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.gov.uk/government/world/poland.
UKRAINEQK2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, krakow.mfa.gov.ua.
USAQC3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
DENTISTS
DENTA-MED
Also at ul. w. Gertrudy 4 (D-4) and ul. Augustiaska 13
(D-7) - both open 08:00 - 21:00.QJ4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13,
tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open
24hrs..
DENTESTETICA
QJ1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 83, www.
dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMERGENCY ROOM
UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL (SZPITAL
UNIWERSYTECKI)
QJ2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel. (+48) 12 351 66 01, www.
su.krakow.pl.
Directory
LAUNDRY
FRANIA CAFE
Krakws first and only laundromat cafe, let them do it for
you, or wash it yourself, while enjoying wifi, boardgames,
coffee, beer and booze from the bar.QE5, ul. Starowilna
26, tel. (+48) 783 94 50 21, www.franiacafe.pl. Open
10:30 - 24:00. 6GW
PEPE PRALNIA
A high-quality self-service laundromat right in the centre
of Kazimierz, this family company has great prices, and
other locations at ul. Duga 58 (I-1) and al. Jana Pawa II 82
(AWF).QD6, ul. Dietla 51, tel. (+48) 666 11 11 19, www.
pepepralnia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
The best Krakw
has to offer
in one great app
POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKA
QD/E2, ul. Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 91 68, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKA
QD4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 44 89, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
PRIVATE CLINICS
ARS MEDICA
QD1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423 38 34, www.
ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MEDICOVER
Also at ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki, same hours as listed
here), and ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prdnik Czerwony,
open from 07:00 Mon-Fri).QK3, ul. Podgrska 36, tel.
(+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
City Essentials
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
CHRIST THE KING CHURCH
English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.QK2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
REMUH SYNAGOGUE
Jewish services held each Friday.QE6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel.
(+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl.
ST. BARBARAS
Holy Mass in German each Sunday at 14:30.QC3, May
Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www.swbarbara.jezuici.
pl.
ST. GILES CHURCH
Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QC5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl.
Only our favourite places

Works ofine, incl. maps
Free download
Incl. dozens of other cities
www.iyp.me/app
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
June - July 2016
133
Hotels
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into

elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of
accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and
breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels you certainly shouldnt struggle to find yourself a place to
sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around Krakw, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader
comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space
constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include
all of that content here as we once did, however we still
provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and
hostels below. Sleep well.
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
F Fitness centre
H Conference facilities
K Restaurant
D Sauna
L Guarded parking on site
6 Animal friendly
w Wellness
C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available
CREAM OF THE CROP

COPERNICUS
hotel.com.pl. 29rooms (4singles, 17doubles, 8suites).
PH6FLKDC hhhhh
GRAND
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00,
www.grand.pl. 64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles,
9apartments). PH6UFLKD hhhhh
GRDEK
QD3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www.
donimirski.com. 23 rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles,
2suites). PH6U
LKD hhhhh
HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER
QD4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.
hik.krakow.pl. 237 rooms (236 singles, 236 doubles,
1 Presidential Apartment). PH6UFK
hhhhh
HOTEL STARY
QC2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www.
hotel.com.pl. 78rooms (8singles, 53doubles, 6suites,
7apartments, 1Presidential Suite). PH6UFL
KDXCw hhhhh
Hotels
KOMOROWSKI LUXURY GUEST ROOMS
QC1, ul. Duga 7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.
hotelkomorowski.com. 7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles).
P
NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA
QH3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.
niebieski.com.pl. 40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles,
2apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
RADISSON BLU
QB4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88
88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow. 196 rooms
(142 singles, 142 doubles, 19 apartments, 35 Business
Class Rooms). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
SHERATON GRAND KRAKOW
QA5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www.
sheratongrandkrakow.com. 232 rooms (221 singles,
221doubles, 10suites, 1Presidential Wawel Apartment).
PH6UFKDXC hhhhh
UPMARKET
AMADEUS
QD3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www.
hotel-amadeus.pl. 22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles,
2apartments). PHUFLKD hhhh
AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELS
QB2, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www.
hotel-amber.pl. 38 rooms (17 singles, 29 doubles,
8triples, 6suites). PH6UFD
ANDELS BY VIENNA HOUSE CRACOW
QD2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www.
viennahouse.com. 159rooms (153singles, 153doubles,
6apartments). PH6UFKD hhhh
FRANCUSKI
QC2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.
hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42rooms (4singles, 23doubles,
15apartments). H6FK hhhh
GALAXY
QK3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www.
galaxyhotel.pl. 205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles,
50 triples, 5 suites). PHUFLKDXC
w
hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKW
QI4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00,
www.hgi.com. 154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles,
7apartments). PH6UFK hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKW AIRPORT
Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 3, tel. (+48) 12 340 00 00,
www.hiltoneasteurope.com. 155 rooms (152 singles,
152doubles, 3apartments). PHUFK hhhh
June - July 2016
135
Hotels
BONIA MEADOW
HOTEL KOSSAK
QA5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www.
hotelkossak.pl. 60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles,
5apartments). PH6UFKDX hhhh
HOTEL RUBINSTEIN
QE6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.
rubinstein.pl. 30rooms (25singles, 21doubles, 5suites).
PHKD hhhh
HOTEL UNICUS
QC2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www.
hotelunicus.pl. 35 rooms (8 singles, 26 doubles,
1apartment). PHLKD hhhh
MATEJKO
QD1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.
matejkohotel.pl. 51 rooms (48 singles, 45 doubles,
3apartments). H6UK hhh
A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of

greenery directly west of the Old Town, the Bonia
is a huge, triangular open space measuring nearly
50 hectares. Technically a park, although lacking any
trees or other defining characteristics, the Polish name
Bonie denotes a meadow - something of an amiable
linguistic redressing of the Bonias true and unchanged
historical function: its a cow pasture. The areas ability to
survive to modern times as the largest city centre open
space in Europe can be credited to a perfect storm of
boggy undesirability, a centuries-long ownership
dispute, and finally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used
by locals to graze cattle even midway into the 20th
century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel was
built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently
ban unfashionable bovines from the Bonia, only to find
themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally
binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which
they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not
being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic
partner in those times, city council decided to stick
with the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for
you to air old Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a
great idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called
Bovines on the Bonia - make it happen, Mr. Mayor),
these days the green triangle has primarily become
the favourite leisure space of dogs and their frisbee
chasing, ball playing owners, while the perimeter is a
popular track for cycling, running and roller-blading;
in winter it hosts cross-country skiers and an ice rink.
Protected as a National Heritage Site since 2000, the
Bonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor events, and will
play a central role in the World Youth Day celebrations
in Krakw, including an open-air mass on July 26th and
Pope Francis papal welcome on July 28th.QG3.
METROPOLITAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL

QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 19, tel. (+48) 12 442 75 00, www.
hotelmetropolitan.pl. 59rooms (58singles, 58doubles,
4triples, 1suite). PHUFK hhhh
PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW
QA7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.
parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152 rooms (152 singles,
152doubles). PH6UFKDw hhhh
POD R (UNDER THE ROSE)
QC3, ul. Floriaska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.
com.pl. 57rooms (50singles, 37doubles, 7apartments).
PH6FKD hhhh
POLSKI POD BIAYM OREM
QC2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www.
donimirski.com. 60 rooms (30 singles, 22 doubles,
5triples, 3suites). PH6U hhh
PURO HOTEL KRAKW
QD1, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. (+48) 12 314 21 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 138 rooms (131 singles, 131 doubles,
7suites). PH6U
K hhhh
QUBUS HOTEL KRAKWQJ4, ul. Nadwilaska
6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com.
194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles, 10 suites,
1apartment). PH6UFKDC hhhh
SENACKI
QC4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www.
hotelsenacki.pl. 20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles,
2suites). PH6U
FLK hhhh
WENTZL
wentzl.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 7 triples).
P6LK hhhh
Hotels
MID-RANGE
ASCOT HOTEL
QE3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06,
www.hotelascot.pl. 49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles,
7triples, 2quads). PH6U hhh
CAMPANILE
QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.
campanile.com. 106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles,
43triples, 1suite). PH6U hhh
CLASSIC
QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03,
www.hotel-classic.pl. 31rooms (26singles, 26doubles,
3triples, 5apartments). P6U hhh
DOMUS MATERQL5, ul. Saska 2C, tel. (+48) 12 290
63 01, www.domusmater.pl. 41 rooms (37 singles,
37doubles, 4suites). HUK
EDENQE6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65,
www.hoteleden.pl. 27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles,
5triples, 2suites). H6UD hhh
FLORYAN
QC2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14 18, www.
floryan.com.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles, 21 doubles,
8triples, 3quads). PH6K hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ
QD6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 38rooms (38singles, 28doubles, 2triples).
PH6 hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ II
QE5, ul. Starowilna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.
hk.com.pl. 25 rooms (25 singles, 23 doubles). H6
hhh
IBIS KRAKW CENTRUM
QA5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 175rooms (175singles, 175doubles).
PJ6UK hhh
IBIS KRAKW STARE MIASTO
QJ1, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 135rooms (135singles, 135doubles,
16triples). PH6UK hhh
KARMEL
QE6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 97, www.karmel.
com.pl. 11rooms (4singles, 6doubles, 1suite). 6K
hhh
KAZIMIERZ ANNEX
hk.com.pl. 11rooms (11singles, 11doubles, 4triples).
P6 hhh
June - July 2016
137
Hotels
MALTASKI
QB4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 10,
www.donimirski.com. 16rooms (16singles, 14doubles).
H6UL hhh
POD WAWELEM
QB5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www.
hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48rooms (47singles, 42doubles,
1apartment). PH6UKD hhh
POLLERA
QD3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.
pollera.com.pl. 42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles,
7triples, 2quads, 2apartments). H6 hhh
ROYALQC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12
421 35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. 99 rooms (34 singles,
31doubles, 12triples, 9quads, 10suites, 3apartments).
PH6UK hhh
Airconditioned suites,
Art Nouveau ambiance,
situated in the very heart of the Old Town...
ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Krakw
Tel. +48 12 422 10 44, Fax: +48 12 422 13 89
rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl
RUCZAJ
Qul. Ruczaj 44 (Dbniki), tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.
ruczajhotel.com.pl. 45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles,
12triples, 4quads, 4suites). PH6UKD hhh
VIENNA HOUSE EASY CHOPIN CRACOW
QK2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www.
viennahouse.com. 220 rooms (212 singles, 7 doubles,
1apartment). PH6UFKD hhh
WAWELQC4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 28 doubles,
1apartment). PHKDw hhh
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow

just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
offer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw

tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
WIELOPOLEQD4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14

75, www.wielopole.pl. 35rooms (9singles, 27doubles,
9triples). P6UK hhh
WYSPIASKI
QD3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66, www.
hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231rooms (41singles, 190doubles,
91triples). H6UFLK hhh
BUDGET
IBIS BUDGET KRAKW STARE MIASTO
QJ1, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www.
accorhotels.com. 167rooms (167singles, 167doubles).
P6U h
TOURNET
accommodation.krakow.pl. 18 rooms (17 singles,
16doubles, 10triples). 6K
TRZY KAFKI GUEST ROOMS
QB3, ul. Straszewskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 632 48
56, www.trzykafki.pl. 19 rooms (3 doubles, 4 triples,
6quads, 3Five-person room, 3Six-person room). 6
Hotels
HOSTELS
APARTMENTS
GOOD BYE LENIN PUB & GARDEN

QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www.
goodbyelenin.pl. 14 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles,
62dorm beds).
APARTMENT CRACOW
apartmentcracow.com. 30 rooms (30 apartments).
6UK
GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE

gregtomhostel.com. 10rooms (92dorm beds). K
APARTMENTHOUSE GRODZKA
QC3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 48 35, www.
grodzka.net.pl. 12rooms (12apartments). 6
NEW
LITTLE HAVANA PARTY HOSTEL
QB3, ul. Jagielloska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 24 00,
www.thelittlehavanahostel.com. 14 rooms (2 doubles,
118dorm beds). 6
B&B LA FONTAINE
QC3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
bblafontaine.com. 11rooms (11apartments). K
MOMOTOWN
QD6, ul. Miodowa 28, tel. (+48) 12 429 69 29,
www.momotownhostel.com. 30 rooms (15 singles,
15doubles, 80dorm beds).
PINK PANTHERS HOSTELQC2, ul. w. Tomasza 8,
tel. (+48) 12 422 09 35, www.pinkpanthershostel.com.
13rooms (2doubles, 66dorm beds).
SECRET GARDEN HOSTEL
QD7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, www.
thesecretgarden.pl. 30 rooms (30 singles, 30 doubles,
5triples). 6
KANONICZA 22
kanonicza22.com. 3rooms (3apartments). PK
KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS
QD2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www.
krakowapartments.info. 15rooms (15apartments).
RED BRICK
QD1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66 00, www.
redbrick.pl. 16rooms (16apartments). 6
RED KURKA
QC4, ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www.
redkurka.com. 3rooms (3apartments). 6
June - July 2016
139
The Lords Ark
Nowa Huta
Cultural Centre
Nowa Huta
Museum
Markiza
Cepelix
Stylowa
Museum of the
Armed Act
PRL
Museum
St. Bartholomews
St. John the Baptist
Monastery
Cistercian
Lake
Huta
Nowa
J. Matejko
Manor House
Wandas
Mound
ArcelorMittal
Steelworks
Etap
Jordan Park
National
Museum
Stained
Glass
ki
bnic
D ridge
B
Kociuszko
Mound
Zwie
rz
Bridyniecki
ge
zki
ald
nw e
Gru Bridg
developed area
Fo
cinema
Hilton Garden
Jewish Cemetery
Jewish Ghetto
Military Military
Cemetery
Cemetery
Water Park
Water Park
Rakowicki
Rakowicki
Cemetery
Cemetery
Home Army
Home Army
Botanical
Botanical
GardensGardens
rsk
Kotladge
Bri
Schindlers
Schindlers
MOCAKMOCAK
Factory Factory
Cricoteka
Cricoteka
Lipowa 3Lipowa 3
Wgi
J
ska zefiska
erska
erska
Jzefi
Wgi
tek e
rna idg
Be otbr
Fo
tek e ki
rna idg ds
Be otbrPisu dge
i
Fo
Br
ki
ds
su e
Pi ridg
B
orum Forum
n s
sia g
le in
Si pris ge
U rid
Bn s
sia g
le in
Si pris ge
U rid
B
zki
ald
dge
Galaxy Galaxy
rsk
Kotladge
Bri
Jewish Jewish
Cemetery
Cemetery
en
Fort Benedict
Fort Benedict
Jerozolimska
Krakus Krakus
Mound Mound
Liban Liban
Quarry Quarry
New New
Podgrze
Podgrze
Cemetery
Cemetery
Jerozolimska
B e d n aBr e
s kdin a r ski
Park Park
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13

LEVEL -1
www.likusrestauracje.pl
St. Florians
Agrafka
Academy
of Fine Arts
Barbican
Floriaska
Gate
Sowacki
Szoayski
House
J. Mehoffer
House
History Museum
St. Annes
Town Hall
Tower
Cloth Hall
St. Marys
Europeum
St. Barbaras
Jagiellonian
University
Hutten-Czapski
St. Adalberts
Bishops
Palace
St. Francis
BLU
Plac
targowy
Geology
Archaeology
Sts. Peter & Paul
St. Andrews
Archdiocesan
Copernicus
St. Marcins
Ibis
Centrum
St. Ignacys
ki
bnic
D ridge
B
Cathedral
Museum
Wawel
Hill
Wawel
Cathedral
Jewish
Cemetery
Royal
Castle
St. Bernards
Dragons Den
Temple
Isaac
High
Old
Synagogue
Manggha
zki
ald
nw e
Gru Bridg
Corpus Christi
St. Catherines
City Engineering
Ethnographic
International
Congress Centre
Skaka
Ethnographic
k
ate ge
rn rid
Beootb
F
Street Register
29 Listopada, Al.
J1
3 Maja, Al.
G/H2/3
Akacjowa L1
Akademicka H2
Aliny L1
Altanowa G1
Ariaska J2
Armii Krajowej, Al.
F/G1
Asnyka B1/2
Augustiaska D6-7
Bajeczna L3
Bauckiego A6
Bandtkiego F1
Bandurskiego K1/2
Barska
A/B6/7
Bartosza E6
Basztowa
C/D2
Batorego I2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al. K1/2
Berka Joselewicza
E5
Bernardyska B/C5/6
Biaa Droga
H4
Biernackiego H1
Biskupia B1
Blachnickiego, ks.
J3
Blich J3
Bobrowskiego K3
Boczna H4
Bogusawskiego D-5
Bohomolca L1
Bocheska J4
Bonerowska E4
Bonifraterska D7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen. K/L1
Borowego F2
Bosacka E1/2
Boego Ciaa
D6/7
Boznaskiej K1
Bracka C3/4
Brzownicza F2
Brodowicza K1/2
Bronowicka F/G1
Brzozowa D5
Buhaka A7
Buszka F/G2
Bydgoska G1/2
Bytomska H1
Ceglarska H5
Celna J4
Chmielowskiego I/J4
Chocimska H1/2
Chodkiewicza J3
Chodowieckiego G2
Chopina H2
Ciemna E6
Cieszyska I1
Cicha F1
wiklowa F5
Cybulskiego A3
Cystersw L2/3
Czapskich A3
Czarnieckiego J4
Czarnowiejska H2
Czarodziejska G/H4
Czysta A2
Czywka J5
Dbrowskiego, gen.
K4
Dbska L2
Dajwr E6
Daszyskiego J3/4
Dbnicka H4
Dbowa A7
Dekerta K4
Dembowskiego J/K5
Dietla C/E4/6
Duga C1
Dugosza J5
Dobrego Pasterza
K/L1
Dolnych Mynw
A2
Dominikaska
C4
Droga do Zamku
B/C5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C2
Dworska H4
Dzielskiego K/L1
Estery
D6
Fabryczna L2/3
Faata H3
Feldmana A1
Felicjanek
A4
Fenna Sereno
I2
Filarecka H3
Flisacka H3/4
Floriaska
C/D2/3
Focha, Al. marsz.
G/H3
Franciszkaska B/C4
Friedleina I1
Galla G/H1
Garbarska
B2
Garczyskiego K2
Garncarska H2/3
Gazowa
E7
Gsia K3
Gowackiego G1
Goetla G2
Gobia B3
Gontyna G3
Grabowskiego
A1
Gramatyka G1
Grodzka
C3/5
Gromadzka L4/5
Grottgera H/I1
Grunwaldzka K1/2
Gryfity G3
Grzegrzecka
E4
Gzymsikw I1
Halicka J3/4
Helclw I1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K4
Heweliusza L5
Hofmana F3
Humberta H3
Igrcw G2
Ingardena H3
Izaaka
D/E6
Jabonowskich H/I3
Jadwigi z obzowa
F/G1
Jagielloska
B2/3
Jachowicza L2
Jakuba
E6
Jaskcza H3
Joselewicza J3
Jzefa
D/E6
Jzefitw H1
Kadecka G1
Kalwaryjska I/J5
Kamienna I/J1
Kamieskiego I/J5
Kanonicza
C4/5
Kapelanka H4/5
Kapucyska
A/B3
Karowicza H2
Karmelicka
A/B1/2
Kasztelaska G/H3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela
K1
Kazimierza Wielkiego
G/H1
Kielecka K1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L4
Kijowska, Al.
G/H1/2
Kiliskiego A7
Klimeckiego K/L4
Kmieca H1
Kobierzyska H5
Kochanowskiego A1/2
Koletek
C6
Kotaja
E3
Komandosw I4/5
Konarskiego H2
Konfederacka
A7
Konopnickiej A/B5/7
Konwisarzy F1/2
Kopernika
D/E3
Kordylewskiego K2/3
Kociuszki H3
Kosynierw L2
Kotlarska K3
Kolarska L5
Krakowska D6/7
Krasickiego I5
Krasiskiego, Al.
H3
Kraszewskiego H3
Kredowa F5
Kremerowska
A1
Krlewska H1
Krlowej Jadwigi
F/G2/3
Krtka
C1
Krowoderska
C1
Krupnicza A/B2/3
Krzemionki J5
Krzesawicka L1
Krzywa
C1
Krzywda L4/5
ks. Kordeckiego
C6/7
Ksicia Jzefa
F/G4
Kujawska H1
Kupa
E6
Kurkowa J2
Kurniki
D1
Kwartowa L1
Lanckoroska K5
Lea F/H1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego
J4/5
Lenartowicza H/I1/2
Leszczynowa F3
Lewkowa E6
Limanowskiego J/K4
Lipowa K4
Litewska H1
Loretaska
A2/3
Lubelska I1
Lubicz
D/E2
Lublaska K1
Lubomirskiego J/K2
Ludowa K5
Ludwinowska I4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska
B1/2
Madaliskiego A6
Maa A4
Malczewskiego F/G3-4
May Rynek
C3
Masarska K3
Matejki, Pl.
I/J2
Mazowiecka H/I1
Meiselsa D6
Metalowcw E3/4
Mickiewicza, Al.
H2
Michaowskiego A1/2
Michaowskiego H/I2
Mikoajska C/D3
Miodowa D/E5/6
Mitery I5
Mlaskotw H3
Myska K1
Mogilska K/L1/2
Moniuszki K2
Monte Cassino
A7
Montelupich I1
Mosinicza K2
Mostowa D/E7
Na Grdku
D3
Na Przejciu
E6
Na Szaniec
L3
Na Ustroniu
I4
Na Zjedzie
J4
Nadwislanska J4
Nawojki G2
Obona H1
Odlewnicza F1/2
Odrowa I1
Ofiar Dbia
L3
Ogrodowa
D1
Oleandry H2/3
Olszaska K1
Orawska I5
Orzeszkowej
C6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F3
Paderewskiego C/D1
Paproci L4
Parkowa J5
Patynw G4
Pauliska
C6/7
Pawia
D1/2
Pawlickiego, ks.
H4/5
Pdzichw I1/2
Piastowska F/G1/3
Piekarska C/D7
Pietrusiskiego G4/5
Pijarw K/L1
Pijarska
C/D2
Pisudskiego A/B3/4
Piwna J4
Pl. Baw
E6
Pl. Bernardyski
C5
Pl. Biskupi
B/C1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta
J4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego
A3
Pl. Inwalidw
H2
Pl. Kossaka
A5
Pl. Mariacki
C3
Pl. Matejki
D1/2
Pl. Na Groblach
B4/5
Pl. Nowy
D6
Pl. Sowiaski
C1
Pl. Serkowskiego
J4/5
Pl. Szczepaski
B2
Pl. w. Ducha
D2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny
C4
Pl. Wolnica
D7
Pl. Wszytkich witych
C4
Paszowska L4
Pod Kopcem
F3
Pod Kopcem, Al.
K5
Podbrzezie J3
Podbrzezie
D5/6
Podgrska E7
Podchorych G1
Podskale I/J5
Podwale B2/3
Podzamcze B/C5
Pokoju, Al.
K/L2/3
Pkole L3
Pomorska H1
Portowa K/L4
Poselska B/C4
Powile A/B5
Powronicza A6
Powstacw lskich, Al. J/K5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich, Al.
K/L4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K2/3
Prdnicka I1
Prandoty J/K1
Praska G/H4
Prusa H3
Przedwionie I4/5
Przemysowa K4
Przybyszewskiego F1
Puaskiego A6/7
Racawicka H1
Radziwiowska E2/3
Rajska
A2
Rakowicka J/K1/2
Reformacka
A/B2
Rkawka J/K4
Retoryka
A4
Reymana G2
Reymonta G/H2
Rodackiego J/K5
Rana
A6
Ruczaj F/G5
Rybaki I/J4
Rybna L4/5
Rynek Dbnicki
A6
Rynek Gwny
C3
Rynek Kleparski
C/D1
Rynek Podgrski
J4
Rzeszowska
E6
Rzenicza K3
Sdowa K2
Salezjaska G/H5
Salwatorska H3
Sandomierska
A/B6
Sarego
C/D4/5
Saska L4/5
Senacka
C4
Senatorska H3
Siedleckiego E4/5
Siemieskiego G/H1
Siemiradzkiego A1
Sienkiewicza H1
Sienna C3/4
Skaeczna C/D7
Skalica F5
Skarbiskiego G1
Skawiska C/D7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E3
Skwerowa A7
Sawkowska C2/3
Somiana H4/5
Soneckiego K1
Sonecznikowa F3
Sowackiego, Al.
H/I1
Smocza B6
Smolesk A/B4
Smolki I/J5
Sobieskiego I2
Sobieskiego Jana III
A/B1
Sotyka E3/4
Spasowskiego A/B1
Spiowa F1/2
Starowilna D/E4/6
Staszica I1
Stawarza J5
Stefana Batorego
A/B1
Stoczniowcw L4
Stolarska C3/4
Stradomska C/D5/6
Straszewskiego I3
Strzelcw K1
Strzelecka E2
Studencka A/B3
Sukiennicza C6
Supniewskiego K1/2
Swoszowicka J5
Symfoniczna H2
Syrokomli H3
Szablowskiego F1
Szafera K2/3
Szczepaska B/C2/3
Szenwalda L1/2
Szeroka E6
Szewska B2/3
Szklarska L4
Szlachtowskiego G1
Szlak I/J1
Szpitalna C/D2/3
Szwedzka H4
Szymanowskiego H2
lska I1
liska I5
lusarska K4
niadeckiego J3/4
w. Agnieszki
C6
w. Anny
B3
w. Bronisawy
G3
w. Filipa
C/D1
w. Gertrudy
C/D4/5
w. Idziego
C5
w. Jacka
H5
w. Jana
C2/3
w. Katarzyny
D6/7
w. Krzya
D3
w. azarza
J3
w. Marka
C/D2/3
w. Sebastiana
C/E5
w. Stanisawa
C7
w. Teresy
I1
w. Tomasza
B/D2/3
w. Wawrzyca
D/E6/7
witokrzyska I1
Tenczyska B4
Tkacka H2
Topolowa J2
Toruska G2
Traugutta K4
Trynitarska D/E7
Twardowskiego H5
Tyniecka F/H4/5
Urzdnicza H1/2
Wadowicka I5
Waowa K4
Wandy K3
Warmijska G1
Warszauera D/E6
Warszawska D1
Wasilewskiego A7
Wska E6
Waszyngtona G3
Wglowa D7
Wenecja A3
Westerplatte D2/3
Widok L3
Wielopole J3
Wierzbowa I4
Wietora I4
Wiolarska G4
Wilna B3
Wadysawa okietka
I1
Wociaska F1
Wodna L5
Wodocigowa F4
Wjtowska H1
Wolnica, Pl.
J4
Worcela D2
Wrblewskiego I1/2
Wrocawska H/I1
Wrzesiska E4
Wyczkowskiego G/H3
Wygoda A4
Wyspiaskiego H1
Zacisze D1/2
Zaktek H1
Zamenhofa D/E2
Zamkowa A6
Zarzecze F1
Zatorska I4/5
Zauek K4
Zegadowicza A4
Zieliskiego, gen.
G/H4
Zwierzyniecka A/B4/5
Zwycistwa L2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E3/4
Zygmunta Augusta
J2
elazna J1
kiewskiego K3
Index
19th Century Polish Art Gallery 82
Adam Mickiewicz
80
Alchemia 70
Alchemia od Kuchni
34
Alebriche 46
Amadeus 135
Amarone 40
Ambasada ledzia
42
Amber Boutique Hotels
135
andel's by Vienna House Cracow
135
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery
127
Antycafe 63
Apartment Cracow
139
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 139
Aqua e Vino
40
Aqua Fun
122
Archaeology Museum
82
Archdiocesan Museum of
Cardinal Karol Wojtya
83
Ariel 44
Ascot Hotel
137
Auschwitz I
117
Auschwitz II - Birkenau
117
Auschwitz Jewish Museum &
Synagogue 116
Bagelmama 60
Barbican 75
Bar Kazimierz
52
Baroque 63
B&B La Fontaine
139
Bezogrdek Food Truck Park 36
Bianca 42
Bierhalle 34
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace 83
Bishops Palace
7
Bonarka City Center
130
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa 125
Boscaiola 42
Botanical Garden
124
Bottiglieria 1881
66
Browar Lubicz
50, 71
Bulldog Bar
63
Bunkier Cafe
64
Cafe Mynek
58
Cafe Sza
58
Camelot 60
Campanile 137
Carriage Rides
76
Cathedral 119
Cathedral Museum
95
Celestat 83
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 125
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino
60
Cheder 58
Chimney Cake Bakery
58
Church of Saints Peter & Paul 79
City Defensive Walls
84
City Engineering Museum 98
Classic 137
Cloth Hall
82, 129
Collegium Maius
84
Copernicus
35, 134
Cracow City Tours
77
Cracow Tours
76
Crazy Guides
110
Cricoteka 103
Crown Treasury & Armoury 93
Cruising Krakw
122
Cruising Krakw Bike Tours 76

Cupcake Corner Bakery
58
Czerwone Korale
50
Dajwr 21 Food Truck Park 36
Delikatesy 13
129
Diocesan Museum
119
DiscoverCracow.eu
76, 77
Domus Mater
137
Dragon's Den
95
Dym 64
Eden 137
Ed Red
50
Enoteka Pergamin
35
Eros Bendato
80
Eszeweria 70
Ethnographic Museum 98, 120
Europeum Centre for European
Culture 85
FACTORY Outlet
131
Floryan 137
Food Truck Square
36
Fort Benedict
105
Forum Designu
130
Forum Przestrzenie
65
Francuski 135
Frantic 68
Free Walking Tour
76
Galaxy 135
Galeria Kazimierz
131
Galeria Krakowska
131
Galeria Plakatu
128
Galeria Przy Sawkowskiej 128
Galicia Jewish Museum
98
Ghetto Wall Fragment
107
Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden
139
Grand 134
Grande Grill
31
Greg & Tom Beer House
139
Grdek 134
Grunwald Monument
81
Hamsa 40
Hard Rock Cafe
31, 65
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
68
High Synagogue
99
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw 135
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw
Airport 135
Hipolit House
85
History Museum
85
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center
134
Home Army Museum
86
Hotel Kazimierz
137
Hotel Kazimierz II
137
Hotel Kossak
136
Hotel Rubinstein
136
Hotel Stary
134
Hotel Unicus
136
House Of Beer
65
Hurry Curry
32
Hutten-Czapski Museum
86
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto
138
Ibis Krakw Centrum
137
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto
137
IDEA FIX Concept Store
128
India Masala
34
Indus Tandoor
34
InfoKrakw 77
InfoKrakw Kazimierz 77, 100
InVito Pizza & Pasta
42
Irish Pub Pod Papugami
65
Isaac Synagogue
99
Jama Michalika
59
Jan Matejko
81
Jan Matejko House
87
Jarema 51
Jasna Gra
9
Jewish Community
96
Jewish Community Centre 96
John Paul II Centre
8
John Paul II's Family House
9
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre
77
Jzef Czapski Pavillon
87
Jzef Mehoffer House
88
Judaica Foundation
96
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
8
Kanonicza 22
139
Karma Coffee Roasters
59
Karmel 137
Kazimierz Annex
137
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 40
Klezmer Hois
46
Klub Re
66
Kogel Mogel
51
Komorowski Luxury Guest
Rooms 135
Kociuszko Mound
88
Krakow City Apartments
139
Krakow Pinball Museum
123
Krakowski Kredens
129
Krakw Water Park
123
Krakw Zoo
124
Krakuska Sztuka Ludowa
129
KRK Bike Rental
122
Krowarzywa Vegan Burger 56
Kryspinw 123
Kupa Synagogue
99
Kurka Wodna
51
La Campana Trattoria
42
La Casa del Habano
66, 126
Lady With An Ermine
95
La Fontaine
33
La Grande Mamma
44
Laser Park
124
L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant
51, 66
Le Scandale
70
Les Couleurs
70
Let Me Out
124
Liban Quarry
105
Lilou 127
Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics
Centre 103
Little Havana Party Hostel 139
Lokal 68
Lost Souls Alley
124
Lost Wawel
93
Main Market Square
74
Maltaski 138
Mamma Mia
44
Manggha 88
Marmolada 52
Massolit Books & Caf
127
Matejko 136
Meho Cafe
59
Mercy Brown
66
Metaforma Cafe
60
Metropolitan Boutique Hotel 136
Miejsce 70
Milkbar Tomasza
60
Mid Malina
52
Mleczarnia 71
Momotown 139
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 31
Morskie Oko
52
Multi Qlti Tap Bar
66
Museum of Contemporary Art
103
NOWA HUTA STREET REGISTER

Andersa, al., gen. M/N1/3
Artystw N3
Bardosa T4
Batalionu Parasol
M1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M2/3
Bulwarowa P/R1/4
Centralny, pl.
N/O3
Cerchw P4
Daniowskiego R4
Gajocha O3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O2/3
Jana Pawa II, al.
M/R3/4
Klasztorna R5
Kleinera T1
Kocmyrzowska
M/N1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T1
Ludmierska N1/2
empickiego S1
Mierzwy
O/R3/4
Mocickiego
O/P1
Obrocw Krzya
N1
Orkana
P/R3
Padniewskiego, bp.
M4
Przyjani, al.
N/O2/3
Ptaszyckiego
R/T4/5
R, al.
O1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P1/2
Sieroszewskiego
P/R5
Solidarnoci, al.
O/T1/3
Stalowa O1
Struga P2
Tomickiego, bp.
M3/4
Ujastek T1
Ujastek Mogilski
T2/4
Wakowicza S1
Wwozowa S1
Winiowy Sad
M2
Wojciechowskiego P1
Zachemskiego P4/5
Zuchw P3/4
eromskiego
O/P1/2
June - July 2016
149
Index
FEATURES INDEX
Barbican 75
Beer Gardens
63
Bonia Meadow
136
Breakfast 60
Breweries 71
Carriage Rides
76
Currency Exchange
132
Decoding the Menu
44
Facts & Figures
18
Food Trucks
36
Former Gestapo Cells
84
Have Your Say
59
Kociuszko Mound
88
Krakw Historical Timeline
21
Krakw in 24hrs
73
Krakw IYP Online
80
Krakw National Museum
89
Krakw Street Art
86
Krakus Mound
104
Kryspinw 123
Lady With an Ermine
95
Language Smarts
19
Late Night Eats
40
Liban Quarry
105
Live Music & Jazz
68
Main Market Square
74
Market Values
18
Markets 130
Memories of Lenin
109
Milk Bars
52
Outdoor Attractions
124
Plac Nowy
100
Plac Wolnica
98
Polish Aviation Museum
85
Polish Food
48
Polish Snacks & Shots
42
Polish Vodka
129
Sowacki Theatre
75
St. John Paul II
11
The Cloth Hall
82
The Hejna
78
The Obwarzanek
46
The Planty
85
Tourist Card
77
Tyskie Brewery
90
Useful Transport Apps
14
Watching EURO 2016
64
World Youth Day
9

City Essentials App
Museum of the Armed Act 110

National Museum, Main Building
89
New Jewish Cemetery
99
Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa 135
NINE Kitchen
32
NOLIO 44
Nowa Huta Museum
111
Noworolski 60
Old Synagogue
99
Oriental Art
93
Paradise Club
69
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 136
Pasa 13
131
Pasta Bar
44
Pharmacy Museum
89
Pharmacy Under the Eagle 103
Piec'Art 68
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa
42
Pink Panther's Hostel
139
PINO 35
Piwnica Pod Baranami
66
Plac Bohaterw Getta
105
Plac Nowy
130
Plac Nowy 1
36, 123
Plac Targowy Unitarg
130
Poco Loco
46
Pod Anioami
52
Pod Baranem
54
Pod Norenami
57
Pod Nosem
54
Pod R
54, 136
Pod Temid
52
Pod Wawelem
54, 138
Polish Aviation Museum
85
Pollera 138
Polski Pod Biaym Orem
136
PRL Museum
110
Prozak 2.0
68
Przypiecek 40
PURO Hotel Krakw
136
Qubus Hotel Krakw
136
Radisson Blu
135
Red Brick
139
RED IS BAD
128
Red Kurka
139
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery
100
Restauracja Sukiennice
55
Rock Shop
129
Royal 138
Royal Crypts
94
Ruczaj 138
Rynek Underground
90
Rzenia - Ribs on Fire
32
Sanctuary of Divine Mercy
8
Sandomierska Tower
93
Ssiedzi 55
Scandale Royal
36, 40, 60
Schindler's Factory
104
Secret Garden Hostel
139
SeeKrakow 77
Senacki 136
Sheraton Grand Krakow
135
Shisha Club by Bollywood
67
Sigismund Bell
95
Singer 71
Sissi Organic Bistro
36
Skaka & the Pauline Monastery 7
Skansen Smakw
55
Sodki Wierzynek
60
Sowacki Theatre
75
Soprano 118
Spoem Deluxe
68
rdmiecie Pub
118
St. Adalberts
79
Stained Glass Museum
90
St. Andrews
79
Stanisaw Lem Science Garden
124
Stara Zajezdnia
71
Starmach Gallery
107
Stary Kleparz
130
State Rooms & Royal Private
Apartments 93
St. Francis' Basilica
79
St. Joseph's
102
St. Marys Basilica
78
S-Tours 76
Studio Qulinarne
38
Sweet Life
60
wita Krowa
67
Szambelan 126
Szara 38
Szara Kazimierz
38
Szoayski House
91
Szpeje 130
Szpitalna 1
69
Tarnw District Museum - Main
Branch 119
T.E.A. Time
71
Teatro Cubano
69
Temple Synagogue
100
Thai Smile Massage
125
The Lord's Ark
110
The Piano Rouge
68
The Stage
67, 123
Tourist Information Centre 120
Tournet 138
Town Hall Museum
120
Town Hall Tower
91
Tradycyja 38
Trzy Kafki Guest Rooms
138
Trzy Rybki
39
Ursa Maior Concept Store & Pub
71
Vanilla Sky
39
Vanilla Spa
125
Vegan Bistro Nova Krova
57
Vienna House Easy Chopin
Cracow 138
Viva la PINTA
67
Wanda's Mound
111
Water Equipment Rental
122
Wawel 138
Wawel Cathedral
94
Wentzl 136
Wesele 56
Wieliczka Salt Mine
112
Wielopole 138
Wierzynek 56
World of Amber
127
WOW KRAKOW!
76
Wyspiaski 138
ZaKadka - Food & Wine
33
Zazie Bistro
33
Zenit 39
Zielone Tarasy
57
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Boutique - Atelier
Symbols of precious moments
Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand

created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.
Lilous philosophy is to create unique, engraved jewelry, customized
and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life,
emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of
architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where
engraving is hand-made on demand.
Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. plated-gold,
and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets
and precious stones, crystals and pearls.
KRAKW, 27 witego Tomasza Street

lilouparis.com
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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Arrival & Transport

Culture & Events 22

Maps & Index

June - July 2016

In the meantime, weve done our due diligence once again

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

June - July 2016

The 100th Issue

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

June - July 2016

June - July 2016

The 100th Issue

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

The 100th Issue

The 100th Issue

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

June - July 2016

The 100th Issue

Krakw is home to over 350 Roman Catholic churches,

June - July 2016

The story behind the foundation of Polands first and

WORLD YOUTH DAY

Thu, July 28: Papal Welcome with Pope Francis

St. Jadwigas tomb in Wawel Cathedral.

Though she was venerated soon after her death, it wasnt

ST. JOHN PAUL II

Arrival & Transport

Krakw Airport | Photo by Emily Meadows

Krakw is well-connected regarding transport, with

storey parking garage across from the terminal. Though

Arrival & Transport

We offer transfers to and from

We also offer one-day trips

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport

Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock

Find a map of Krakws tram system

Arrival & Transport

Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

For those just arriving in town, taxis await you on the

Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Krakws

Arrival & Transport

The Maluch - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly

June - July 2016

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

McDonald's Big Mac

LAW & ORDER

sounds like on in the French bon

Polish Words & Phrases

(Mam nah ee-myeh)

June - July 2016

Woodcut of Krakw from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493

The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the

View of Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870

Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.

Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation

Culture & Events

OPERA SUMMER FESTIVAL

Photo by Ryszard Kornecki

09.06 - 01.07 KRAKW OPERA SUMMER