System 2525 & 2550

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual
Chapter 1
Engraving Table Components (an Overview)
This Chapter provides a brief overview of the table components important for nomenclature and future maintenance. Becoming familiar with the different parts of the Xenetech
Engraving Table will enhance your abilities and perhaps provide you with alternative methods
for different types of engraving. Please read through this section carefully and refer to the
diagrams as each part is described. Please note that this is not a 'How To' chapter, but simply
defines and declares the major components.
The Table (An Overview)

Z Axis
DoveTail Assemblies/Spacers for Risers
Bellows/Covers
Top Views
25x50
engraving
area
The 25x50 Engraving Table
25x25
engraving
area
The 25x25 Engraving Table
Helpful Hint:
At times, references will be made to other Xenetech manuals as
well as to the 'Help Files' provided with the standard software installation disk(s). It is important to become familiar with this information and
how to easily access the Help Files. There is a multitude of important
information at your finger tips, however you must be able to access it
first!
Page 1

Please Note that the three diagrams used on pages 2 and 3 display the
engraving table with the Z-Axis Covers REMOVED.
15
3
14
27
Home Position
4
5
7
6
19
13
37.0"
(25x25)
62.0"
(25x50)
10
Top View of the 25x25 Engraving Table
42.75"
1.)Base Plate (EngravingSurface)

2.)Y Axis Gantry (Bridge)
3.)X Axis Stepper Motor
4.)Y Axis Stepper Motor
5.)Z Axis Stepper Motor
6.)Spindle
7.)Idler Pulley
8.)Spindle Motor Pulley
Page 2
9.)Table Interface Board Cover

10.)37 Pin Table Cable Connector
11.)Y Axis Leadscrew (behind bellows)
12.)Y Axis Linear Slides (behind bellows)
13.)Material Guides
14.)"Alligator" Tracking
15.)Flexible Wire Loom
16.)Dove Tail Gantry Uprights

Z-Axis Assembly (For further
details see pages 8-10)
23
16
25
11
12
26
22
16
25
5
30
19.75"
18
28
4
21
20
20
9
29
10
17
29
Right View of the 25x25 Engraving Table
26
16
27
16
17
30
4
14
24
15
26
3
20
29
20
29
17
Left View of the 25x25 Engraving Table
17.)Tubular Support Frame (under Base Plate)

18.)Y Axis Bellows
19.)X Axis Leadscrew (under Base Plate)
20.)X Axis Linear Slides (under Base Plate)
21.)Z Axis Leadscrew
22.)Z Axis Linear Slide
23.)Z Axis Stepper Motor Knob
24.)Spindle Motor
25.)Left and Right End Caps of Y-Axis Bellows
26.)Clear Vacuum Hose
27.)Z Axis Terminal Strip
28.)Motor Speed Control Connector
29.)Bridge Under Carriage
30.)Y Axis Motor/Leadscrew Coupling
See Pages 4 - 6 for explanation of each component.

Page 3

1.)
Base Plate - The Base Plate is the large flat plate upon which the other major components are mounted. All mechanical alignments are referenced to the base plate, therefore, a
solid level surface is necessary to retain table accuracy. This is also the engraving surface
upon which material is placed.
2.)
Y-Axis Gantry - The Y Axis Gantry (or Bridge) is suspended across the base plate via
the left and right uprights (18). The Y Axis is responsible for all front to back movement 'across'
the table surface.
3.)
X-Axis Stepper Motor - The stepper motor controlling the X-Axis movements is
mounted on the left side of the table surface in the 'notch' of the base plate. Stepper motors
are usually blue in color (some may have silver caps on their ends).
4.)
Y-Axis Stepper Motor - The stepper motor controlling the Y-Axis movements is
mounted to the back end of the Y Axis Gantry. Stepper motors are usually blue in color (some
may have silver caps on their ends).
5.)
Z-Axis Stepper Motor - The stepper motor controlling the Z-Axis movements (Up and
Down) is found just to the right of the spindle above the tension spring. Stepper motors are
usually blue in color (some may have silver caps on their ends).
6.)
Spindle - The spindle receives the cutters used to rotary engrave. The spindle has a
drive pulley on top and the micrometer/nose cone assembly at the bottom.
7.)
Idler Pulley - The Idler Pulley provides a means to transfer rotation to the spindle, yet
still allow vertical travel of the small spindle belt as the spindle (Z-Axis) raises and lowers while
performing engraving.
8.)
Spindle Motor Pulley - The Spindle Motor Pulley mounts on the shaft of the spindle
motor. A belt from this pulley to the Idler Pulley provides rotational power to the spindle.
9.)
Table Interface Board Cover - Within this cover is the Table Interface Board (TIB).
The TIB terminates all table wiring from stepper motors, limit switches etc. and provides a
detachable connector for the table cable.
10.) 37 Pin Table Cable Connector - Extending through the Table Interface Board Cover is
the Table Cable Connector. It consists of a DB37 (37 pins) "D" shell connector and two retaining nuts (sometimes referred to as 'funny nuts') that receive the screws from the table cable.
11.) Y-Axis Leadscrew - The Y-Axis Leadscrew is a large threaded shaft found behind the
Y-Axis Bellows. Leadscrews provide a means to convert the rotational motion supplied by the
Stepper Motors to linear motion (front to back movement of the Z Axis Assembly).
12, 20, 22.) Linear Slides(X, Y, and Z Axes) - All three axes are supported by linear bearings and rails. The X and Y Axes have two rails whereas the Z-Axis is supported by one. The
rails are rectangular in shape and bolted (via many screws) to the their respective axes.
Page 4

13.) Material Guides - Mounted to the top of the base plate near the back left corner are the
Material Guides. These guides are used to squarely position the engraving material to the
engraving table surface.
14.) "Alligator" Tracking - The wiring for the Spindle/Z -Axis assembly is enclosed in the
Alligator Track. The Alligator Track is flexible and bends as necessary as the Z-Axis assembly
moves across the Y-Axis. It also has a removable 'zipper' along the under side so, if necessary, wiring can be serviced.
15.) Flexible Wire Loom - The Flexible Wire Loom concludes the wiring within the "Alligator" Tracking to the Table Interface Board. This Loom is purposely long enough to allow raising
of the Y-Axis Gantry and is split for easy access to the wiring.
16.) Dove Tail Gantry Uprights - The Gantry is supported at each end by the Dove Tail
Gantry Uprights. The term "Dove Tail" describes the specific shape (a trapezoid) of the uprights. It is these Dove Tail assemblies that allow the Gantry to be raised and lowered, yet
maintain squareness to the Base Plate.
17.) Tubular Support Frame - A steel frame is bolted to the Base Plate for additional
strength and flatness. It is important to place the engraver on a sturdy flat surface to maintain a
flat table surface.
18.) Y Axis Bellows - The large accordion style cover attached across the Gantry protects
the Y Axis Leadscrew and Linear Slides from collecting engraving debris. The bellows is held
in place at each end by screws and end caps (27).
19.) X-Axis Leadscrew - The X-Axis Leadscrew is a large threaded shaft found under the
Base Plate, 'strung' from end to end. Leadscrews provide a means to convert the rotational
motion supplied by the Stepper Motors to linear motion (left to right movement of the Gantry).
21.) Z-Axis Leadscrew - The Z-Axis Leadscrew is a small threaded shaft found under the
Z-Axis Stepper Motor. Leadsrews provide a means to convert the rotational motion supplied
by the Stepper Motors to linear motion (up and down movement of the Z-Axis/Spindle assembly).
23.) Z-Axis Stepper Motor Knob - Attached to the top of the Z-Axis Stepper Motor is a
knob. Use this knob to manually move the Z- Axis if needed.
24.) Spindle Motor - For rotational engraving, the spindle is powered by a 90 volt DC
motor, mounted to the back side of the Z-Axis/Spindle Assembly.
25.) Left and Right End Caps of the Y-Axis Bellows - The Y-Axis Bellows is terminated
and mounted at each end with a detachable end cap. Each end cap is held in place by three
Allen head screws.
Page 5

26.) Clear Vacuum Hose - A Vacuum Hose is provided for easy installation of an optional
Vacuum Chip Removal system. The hose is clear and is found extending from both ends of the
"Alligator" tracking. The end nearest the Z-Axis connects to the optional Vacuum Foot Nose
Cone, and the opposite end connects to the Vacuum Pump (also optional, or a standard shop
vac will also work).
27.) Z-Axis Terminal Strip - The wiring for the Z-Axis assembly connects at the Z-Axis
Terminal Strip. This includes the Z-Axis Stepper Motor, the Z-Axis Limit Switch, the Proximity
Sensor, as well as the Y-Axis Limit switch.
28.) Motor Speed Control Connector - For the Motor Speed Control to operate, its
control cable (a small gray cable with a black plug) must be plugged into this outlet.
29.) Bridge Under Carriage - Both ends of the Y-Axis Carriage are supported by the
Dovetail Uprights. The Uprights are mounted to this under carriage and supported by four
linear bearings and slides to the under side of the base plate, allowing the entire bridge assembly to move along the X-Axis.
30.) Y-Axis Motor/Leadscrew Coupling - The end of the stepper motor shaft is connected
to the leadscrew using a coupling. The coupling is cylindrical and has four screws in its side to
clamp onto both the motor shaft and the leadscrew. An identical coupling exists for the X-Axis
Stepper Motor (3).
Page 6
Z-Axis
The Z-Axis is perhaps the most complex of all three axes. Here we are faced with selecting spindle types, different cutters, setting the spring tension (or locking it out), etc. Although
there may be times when you will not use all of the features of the Z-Axis depending on the
type of engraving you are doing, a complete understanding of its parts and 'why' these parts
exist is highly recommended.
Page 7

Please Note that the following diagrams display the Z-Axis assembly
with the Covers REMOVED.
G
I
D
J
K
L
F
A
A.)Z-Axis (Carriage) Plate

B.)Spindle
C.)Spindle Mounting Block
D.)Linear Slide
E.)Idler Pulley
F.)Idler Pulley Mount
G.)Z-Axis Stepper Motor
H.)Z-Axis Stepper Motor Knob
I.)Lead Screw Coupling
J.)Brass Spring Tension Knob
K.)Tension Spring
L.)Proximity Sensor
M.)Lead Screw Mount Bolts (Y-Axis)
N.)Z-Axis Lead Screw
O.)Limit Switch Mount, Bushing Mount
P.)Z-Axis Limit Switch
Q.)Spindle Belt
The Z-Axis Assembly
R
S
Notches
U
R.)Spindle Quill (Outer Housing)
S.)Micrometer Stop
T.)Micrometer
U.)Nose Cone Retaining Ring
V.)Steel Nose Cone (Non-Vacuum)
Page 8
V
Close Up of the Micrometer/Nose Cone Assembly

A.)
Z-Axis (Carriage) Plate - The Z-Axis Plate is the large flat plate upon which the following Z-Axis components are mounted. This plate along with the associated parts of the ZAxis is also referred to as the Carriage Assembly.
B.)
Spindle - The spindle receives the cutters used to engrave with. The spindle has a
drive pulley on top and the micrometer/nose cone assembly at the bottom.
C.)
Spindle Mounting Block - The Spindle is held in place by a two piece mounting block
and two mounting screws. The front half of this block is easily removed for Spindle installation/adjustment.
D.)
Linear Slide - All three axes are supported by linear bearings and slides. The X and Y
Axes have two slides whereas the Z-Axis is supported by one.
E.)
Idler Pulley - The Idler Pulley provides a means to transfer rotation to the spindle yet
still allow vertical travel of the small spindle belt as the spindle (Z-Axis) raises and lowers
while performing engraving.
F.)
Idler Pulley Mount - The Idler Pulley is mounted to the Carriage on its own bracket
with two screws.
G.)
Z-Axis Stepper Motor - The stepper motor controlling the Z-Axis movements (Up and
Down) is found just to the right of the spindle above the tension spring. Stepper motors are
usually blue in color (some may have silver caps on their ends).
H.)
Z-Axis Stepper Motor Knob - Attached to the top of the Z-Axis Stepper Motor is a
knob. Use this knob to manually move the Z-Axis if needed.
I.)
Lead Screw Coupling - The Z-Axis Stepper Motor shaft is connected to the Z-Axis
Lead Screw by a Lead Screw Coupling. A Coupling is simply a cylinder with two set sets, one
at each end.
J.)
Brass Spring Tension Knob - This knob controls the amount of spring pre-load
providing downward pressure of the nose cone on to the engraving material surface. Rotating
the knob to the left increases spring tension. The Brass Knob is capable of 'bottoming out',
eliminating the effects of the spring, simply by rotating the knob all the way down until it meets
the lower bracket under the spring. This is necessary when engraving into harder materials
such as aluminum, stainless steel, etc..
K.)
Tension Spring - The Tension Spring provides downward pressure of the nose cone
on to the material surface when engraving.
L.)
Proximity Sensor - The Proximity Sensor is the threaded shaft with a grey wire
exiting through the top. This sensor is used to sense the material surface when performing
'nose cone' engraving (or diamond drag engraving) and choosing "Full Automatic Cutter Set"
in the 'To Engraver' dialog.
Page 9

M.)
Lead Screw Mount Bolts (Y-Axis) - These two bolts secure the Y-Axis Lead Screw
Nut mount to back of the Z-Axis (Carriage) Plate.
N.)
Z-Axis Lead Screw - The Z-Axis Leadscrew is a small threaded shaft found under the
Z-Axis Stepper Motor. Leadsrews provide a means to convert the rotational motion supplied
by the Stepper Motors to linear motion (up/down movement of the Z-Axis/Spindle assembly).
0.)
Limit Switch Mount, Bushing Mount - This common part provides support for both
the Z-Axis Limit Switch, and terminate the Z-Axis Lead Screw in a nylon bushing. The aluminum bracket is held in place by two long bolts. The Z-Axis Limit Switch Bracket has a small
set screw used to hold the switch in place. Please note that the bushing mount does NOT
require a set screw; please do NOT install one.
P.)
Z-Axis Limit Switch - The Z-Axis Limit Switch is the small chrome plated cylinder with
wires exiting from its top portion. This switch is used to reestablish the 'home' position when
pressing Mechanical Home on the Pendant. (NOTE: All three axes (X, Y, and Z) all have Limit
Switches)
Q.)
Spindle Belt - The Spindle Belt is the smaller of the two belts found on the Z-Axis
assembly. This belt is attached between the Idler Pulley and the Spindle.
R.)
Spindle Quill (Outer Housing) - The Quill is the outer housing or shell of the Spindle.
The Quill is held in place by the Spindle Mounting Block (C).
S.)
Micrometer Stop - The small pointer attached at the bottom of the Quill is called the
Micrometer Stop. The Micrometer Stop controls and maintains any adjustments made to the
Micrometer. The 'clicking' noise associated with rotating the Micrometer is caused by the
Micrometer Stop.
T.)
Micrometer - The Micrometer is the notched/knurled ring screwed on to the bottom
of the Spindle Quill. The Micrometer is used to control the depth of cut when using the nose
cone while engraving. Upon rotating the Micrometer, you will notice that it 'clicks' and locks in
place with each click. Rotating the Micrometer to the right one click increases the engraving
depth by 1/1000th of an inch. Conversely, rotating the Micrometer to the left one click decreases the engraving depth by 1/1000th of an inch. The Micrometer has 25 notches representing 25 'clicks' and twenty-five thousands of an inch change in depth per one complete
revolution. Please note the numbers 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 just below the notches around the
base of the Micrometer. These help to reference the dialed in depth.
U.)
Nose Cone Retaining Ring - The supplied steel nose cone is held in place by the
Nose Cone Retaining Ring. The Retaining Ring simply screws on to the bottom of the Micrometer. If using an optional Vacuum Foot Nose Cone, remove this ring and the Steel Nose
Cone by turning it to the left while holding the Micrometer to prevent from turning.
V.)
Steel Nose Cone (Non-Vacuum) - The Steel Nose Cone provides the depth control
as designated by the Micrometer. An Optional Vacuum Foot Nose Cone provides the same
depth control along with the luxury of removing the chips created while engraving.
Page 10
Dovetail Assemblies/Spacers for risers

The Z-Axis is capable of 2 inches of usable travel. There may be times however when
you may need more clearance for 'taller' objects. The X-Axis Gantry (Bridge)is supported at
both ends by the uprights which have a sliding dovetail to facilitate an easy means of raising
the gantry. Simply loosen the thumb screws, raise the gantry and insert the appropriate
amount of spacers. When finished, reinstall remaining spacers back above the Bridge, and
retighten the thumb screws.
Page 11
Riser Block Spacers

Steel Dowel Pins
Steel Dowel Pins
One Inch Spacer (2 per DoveTail Upright, (6))
Two Inch Spacers (2 per DoveTail Upright (7))
2
5
"Isosceles
trapezoid"
shape
6
DoveTail
Gib
4
Top View Displaying
The DoveTail Gib
Engraving Table with 1 One Inch Riser Block installed (Back View)
1.)DoveTail Upright
2.)DoveTail Top Cap
3.)Locking Thumb Screws for Riser Block Spacers
4.)Locking Screws for DoveTail Gib
5.)One Inch Riser Block Spacer.
6.)Two Inch Riser Block Spacer.
Page 12

1.)
DoveTail Upright - The Gantry is supported at each end by the Dove Tail Gantry
Uprights. The term "Dove Tail" describes the specific shape (an isosceles trapezoid) of the
uprights. It is these Dove Tail assemblies that allow the Gantry to be raised and lowered, yet
maintain squareness to the Base Plate.
2, 3.) DoveTail Top Cap/Locking Thumb Screws for Riser Block Spacers - The
DoveTail Top Cap is mounted to the top of the DoveTail Upright. This Top Cap along with the
Locking Thumb Screws is used to secure the Riser Block Spacers.
4.)
Locking Thumb Screw for DoveTail Gib - When raising or lowering the Y-Axis
Gantry, this Thumb Screw must be loosened to free up the pressure on the DoveTail Gib
(See Inset below for a description of the DoveTail Gib). After raising or lowering the Y-Axis
Gantry, this screw must be tightened to retain alignment of the Y-Axis Gantry to the
BasePlate. (NOTE: To prevent the DoveTail Gib from moving, loosen this Thumb Screw only
enough to relieve the pressure, approximately a quarter to a half turn)
DoveTail Gib - The DoveTail Gib is a thin strip of brass found wedged between the
DoveTail Upright and its mount. The Gib provides protection of the Thumb/Set Screws
from marring the surface of the DoveTail Upright. The Gib has three small indentations
(corresponding to the holes for the Thumb/Set Screws) to prevent the Gib from moving when raising and lowering the Y-Axis Gantry.
5.)
Locking Thumb Screws/Set Screws - On the early production run of the 25x25 and
the 25x50, these screws will be Thumb Screws. Their purpose is simply to aid in providing
pressure on the DoveTail Gib. They will also need to be loosened when raising or lowering the
Y-Axis Gantry. On later versions these screws will be replaced with long set screws with a
lock nut to maintain a factory preset position. Once set correctly, these two set screws will
NOT have to be loosened with the Locking Thumb Screw (4) to raise or lower the Y-Axis
Gantry. (NOTE: To prevent the DoveTail Gib from moving, loosen these Thumb Screws only
enough to relieve the pressure, approximately a quarter to a half turn)
6, 7.) Riser Block Spacers - Both the one inch and two inch spacers are identical in construction with the exception of their height. Each spacer has a pair steel dowel pins pressed
into one end, and holes in the opposite end. The Pins/Holes are designed to fit within one
another, as well as into the DoveTail Top Cap and the DoveTail Mount. There are two of each
size per DoveTail Upright for a total of 4 One Inch Spacers, and 4 Two Inch Spacers.
Page 13
Page 14
Bellows
The mechanics for the Y Axis are covered with an accordion styled bellows. This cover is
designed to protect the mechanics of the Lead Screw and the Linear Rails. It is also designed
however for easy removal for lubrication and maintenance purposes.
Page 15
Y-Axis Bellows : End Caps and Hardware
Mounting Screws (3 screws and washers)
Left and Right End Cap for Y-Axis Bellows
Y-Axis Bellows Right End Cap

and Mounting Screws
Right Section of the Y-Axis Gantry, Bellows and DoveTail Upright
The Y-Axis Bellows is held in place via 3 Allen head screws on both the left and right end
caps. Removing these screws will allow you to slide the ends of the bellows towards the
center of the Y-Axis Gantry exposing the Y-Axis Leadscrew and Linear Slides. NOTE: When
removing the right end cap, move the Z-Axis Carriage assembly to the left, away from the
home position, either by pushing it or turning the Y-Axis Leadscrew knob. The Stepper Motor
Switch on the Pendant may have to be placed in the 'OFF' position to unlock the stepper
motors. REMEMBER to place this switch back to the 'AUTO' or 'LOCK' position when finished.
Page 16
Chapter 2
Engraving Table Features (How To...)
This Chapter will walk you through the basic mechanical adjustments of your engraving
table and some basic procedures required for engraving. This is the 'How To' chapter.
Note: This chapter assumes you have read chapter 1 and have a basic understanding of the
different table components and their locations. Where applicable, references will be made to
previous illustrations by page number and component number (letter).
Installing Cutters (Top Load Spindle, Collet Spindle)

Zeroing Cutters/Setting Engraving Depth
Placing Material on the Engraving Surface.
Adjusting/Locking Out the Tension Spring
Using the Motor Speed Control
Raising The Y-Axis Gantry (Riser Block Spacers)
Hooking Up a Vacuum Chip Removal System
Replacing/Adjusting the Spindle
Opening/Removing the Belt Cover
Page 17
Installing Cutters
Top Load Spindle
To install a cutter in a standard Top Load Spindle simply insert the cutter into the top of
the spindle and screw it in. Please note that the threads of both the cutter knobs and the
spindle are opposite to that of a standard nut and bolt. You will need to rotate the cutter in a
counterclockwise direction to install, and clockwise to remove. Do NOT use plyers to tighten
the cutter, it is not necessary.
Collet Spindle (Optional)
Collet Spindles are typically used in applications where heavy duty engraving is performed into materials such as brass, aluminum, stainless steel, etc.. A Collet Spindle has two
additional parts over a standard Top Load spindle; a Draw Bar and a Collet. The bottom of
the Draw Bar is threaded as well as the top of the Collet (Standard clockwise to tighten
threads). The bottom of the Collet is tapered as is the bottom of the spindle where the Collet
fits. Tightening the Draw Bar on the Collet pulls or 'draws' the Collet further up into the
spindle, causing the Collet to compress and 'clamp' onto the bottom of the installed cutter.
To install a cutter into a Collet Spindle:
1.)Slightly loosen the Draw Bar (turn it counterclockwise to 'open' the Collet, generally
a quarter to a half of a turn is sufficient.). Note: You will have to hold onto the top pulley
of the spindle to prevent it from turning while loosening the Draw Bar.
2.)Insert a cutter into the top of the Draw Bar.
3.)Holding the Draw Bar with one hand, tighten the cutter into the Draw Bar with the
other hand (remember, counterclockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen). The base of
the brass cutter knob should be flush with the top of the Draw Bar when properly
installed.
4.)Tighten the Draw Bar. Holding the top pulley on the spindle, rotate the Draw Bar
clockwise until tight. This last step actually 'clamps' the collet onto the bottom of the
cutter, providing a rigid cutter installation both at the top and bottom of the cutter.
To remove a cutter from a Collet Spindle:
1.)Loosen the Draw Bar. Holding the top pulley on the spindle, rotate the Draw Bar
counterclockwise to open or 'unclamp' the Collet. Generally a quarter to a half of a turn
is sufficient.
2.)Holding the Draw Bar with one hand, loosen and remove the cutter from the Draw
Bar with the other hand (remember, clockwise to loosen, counterclockwise to tighten).
Page 18
Rotate cutter
counterclockwise to
install
Rotate cutter
counterclockwise to
install while
holding the top of
the Draw Bar with
other hand
While holding the

top pulley rotate
Draw Bar
clockwise to tighten
collet at bottom of
spindle
Top
Pulley
Draw Bar
Draw Bar
Outer
Quill
Internal
Threads
Threaded
end
Collet
Standard Top Load

Spindle Complete
A split view of a
Collet Spindle
displaying the
Draw Bar and the
Collet installed
Collet Spindle and

its Supportive
Hardware
Solid
Collet
Split
Collet
(Bottom views of a Solid Collet

and Split Collet respectively)
Standard Top Load Spindles are easier to use when installing cutters, whereas Collet Spindles can provide extra cutter
support at the expense of additional installation procedure.
Page 19
"Zeroing" Cutters/Setting Engraving Depth

A cutter is considered 'zeroed' when the tip of the cutter is flush with the bottom of the
nose cone when the micrometer is in the 'zero' position. Zeroed cutters provide a reference for
which a desired depth may be 'dialed in' at the micrometer. It is common practise to zero all of
your cutters at one time.
Important Note: If you are going to be using a Vacuum Chip Removal System, please
advance to page 29 to install the vacuum foot nose cone in place of the standard steel nose
cone prior to performing the following procedure. Keep in mind that a vacuum foot is also
referred to as a 'nose cone'.
Tools Needed:
1.)Cutter Wrench (Splined Allen Wrench)
2.)Engraving Cutters
3.)Small (2" x 2") flat piece of engraving stock (or any flat object, preferably metal)
To Zero a Cutter:
1.)Rotate the micrometer to the right until you no longer hear the 'clicks' created by the
micrometer and the micrometer stop.
2.)Rotate the micrometer back to the left until the zero (0) lines up with the micrometer
stop.
3.)Rotate the micrometer to the left three complete turns (passing zero (0) twice and
then stopping on zero (0) on the last rotation).
4.)Install a cutter in the spindle.
6.)Place the flat piece of engraving stock under the nose cone and hold it flush to the
bottom of the nose cone. (If the cutter is protruding beyond the bottom of the nose cone,
you will have raise it by loosening the set screw in the brass cutter knob with the cutter
wrench, and pushing or pulling the cutter up into the spindle)
NOTE: It may be easier to move the Spindle out over the engraving area, and bring the nose cone
down to the material surface rather then using a flat piece of material. This requires fewer
'hands' and will speed up this process for zeroing many cutters. Depending on your experience
level in the Xenetech software, you can use the power of the machine to place the Spindle over
the engraving surface and pause it, or simply place the 'STEPPER MOTOR' switch on the
Pendant to 'OFF' and manually move the X, Y, and Z axes by rotating their respective knobs (see
pages 2 and 3 in chapter 1). REMEMBER to place this switch back to the 'AUTO' or 'LOCK'
position.
7.)Loosen the set screw in the brass cutter knob with the cutter wrench, and lower the
cutter so that it rests flush with the bottom of the nose cone (the tip of the cutter will be
sitting on the flat piece of engraving stock). Note: If using a collet spindle, you may have
to loosen the Draw Bar to release the clamping of the cutter by the Collet in order to
complete this step.
8.)Retighten set screw in the brass cutter knob.
9.)Repeat steps 4 through 8 for the rest of your cutters.
Page 20

Setting Engraving Depth:
With your cutters now 'zeroed', it is a simple matter of 'dialing in' the correct depth using
the micrometer. Please note that this procedure for setting an engraving depth is valid only
when using zeroed cutters and using the nose cone to control your engraving depth (standard
steel nose cone or vacuum foot).
1.)Install the desired cutter.
2.)Determine the desired depth you wish to engrave based on the material and application (in thousandths of an inch, i.e. 0.020 = 20 thousandths of an inch).
3.)Rotate the micrometer to the right from the zero location 20 'clicks'. One 'click' on the
micrometer represents 1/1000th of an inch (0.001 inches). The micrometer should
display twenty (20) at the position of the micrometer stop.
NOTE: It is good practice to return the micrometer back to the zero location after use of
the engraver. In the above example, rotate the micrometer back to the left twenty 'clicks'.
ADDITIONAL NOTE: The above procedure describes depth settings based on the use of
a nose cone. There may be occasions where a nose cone may not be desirable (for burnishing on engravers brass or aluminum, or milling into brass or aluminum). To set the depth in
these occasions, see 'Manual Cutter Set at Start' in the Help Files
Page 21
'Zeroing' a Cutter
Cutter
Splined Set Screw

Brass Cutter Knob
Spindle
Micrometer
Nose Cone
Cutter too low
Bottom End of
Cutter (Tip)
Cutter too high
Close Up Views of the Steel Nose Cone and the position of the bottom end of the cutter (tip)
For a cutter to be considered 'Zeroed', its tip must be flush with bottom of
the nose cone with the micrometer set to zero (0).
Page 22
Cutter Zeroed!
Setting an Engraving Depth (Using a Nose Cone and a 'Zeroed' Cutter)
Start with an installed 'zeroed' cutter
Cutter flush with

bottom of nose cone
Rotate the Micrometer to the right 20 'clicks'. You

will see '5', '10', '15', and finally '20', marking
every 5 thousandths of an inch. Stop on '20'.
Cutter exceeds beyond bottom

of nose cone by .020" (20
thousandths of an inch)
When finished engraving, return the Micrometer

back to the zero location by rotating it 20 'clicks'
to the left.
Cutter flush with

bottom of nose cone
Views of the micrometer, nose cone and cutter at different depths
Page 23
Placing Material on the Engraving Surface

The engraving surfaces of both the 25x25 and 25x50 provide you with a variety of methods for placing material for engraving. The method of holding down the material is usually
dictated by the material content itself and the type of engraving intended. The following is
strictly a guideline and by no means the only choices available to you as an inventive engraver.
We at Xenetech have seen our engraver used for applications we would have never dreamed
of, and expect you might probably have some interesting ways of both engraving and mounting
material to the engraving surface. Don't be afraid to get creative.
Engravers Tape/Masking Tape - For flat stock such as plastics, lacquer coated brass,
etc. double sided engravers tape and/or masking tape is one of the simplest methods of
securing material to the engraving surface. This type of engraving is generally considered light
duty, therefore not requiring the use of vices or jigs etc. A starter package of this 'engraver's
tape' has been supplied with your engraver.
Clamps, Vises, Jigs - Fixtures such as clamps or vices can be mounted to the engraving
surface in the provided drilled and tapped holes. Custom made (or home made) jigs can also
be easily attached using the provided hole pattern or custom hole pattern (drilling and tapping
a custom pattern to fit your vice/jig).
Commonly used vices that are available from many engraving suppliers are designed to
hold medallion shaped objects, ink pins, jewelry etc. Look for a Xenetech product line of these
and other peripheral devices in the future.
Vacuum Tables - There are many different types of vacuum tables both on the market, as
well as 'home made'. Vacuum table tops can be fabricated out of acrylic and connected to a
quality vacuum pump. The vacuum table top can then be mounted to the engraving surface
either permanently or temporarily.
Placing Material On the Engraving Surface:
1.)From the type of material and type of engraving, determine a suitable method for
securing it to the engarving surface.
2.)For most applications, the material should be placed in the back left corner of the
engraving surface, flush with both the left and top Material Guides. (Engraving using a
vice or jig may require the use of the 'Table Strokes, Homes' feature found under the
"Misc" menu, for determining a specific X and Y offset. In these cases, the jig/vice may
or may not be in the back left corner of the engraving surface)
Page 24
Adjusting the Spring Tension

Your Xenetech Engraving Table has been provided with adjustable spring tension designed to control the amount of pressure the nose cone/cutter assembly applies to the engraving surface (your material). The idea behind setting this pre-load tension is to provide
enough pressure to allow the cutter to penetrate and maintain a constant depth yet not to
allow the nose cone to scratch or create 'shadows' on the surface of the engraving material.
To Increase the Spring Tension (Pre-load):
Rotate the Brass Tension Knob to the left, compressing the spring down. (It is possible
to reach behind the brass knob with your fore finger with the help of your thumb in
front to make this adjustment).
To Decrease the Spring Tension (Pre-load):
Rotate the Brass Tension Knob to the right, decompressing the spring.
Note: You should at least run a minimal amount of spring tension pre-load for the ZAxis to operate properly. To determine if you have the minimal amount, use fingers to grab
the spring and try to move it up and down. Both the top and bottom of the spring should be
seated against the brass tension knob and the tension spring bottom bracket respectively,
with no spacing or play. Spring pressure set too light could cause problems with an overly
sensitive proximity sensor, causing the engraver to appear to be 'skipping' letters.
Locking Out the Tension Spring

There may be occasions when the spring will inhibit the performance of the engraver (i.e.
engraving into harder materials such as aluminum, brass, stainless steel, etc.) To overcome
this problem the Brass Tension Knob has also been designed to 'Lock Out' the spring.
To Lock Out the Tension Spring:
Rotate the Brass Tension Knob to the left all the way down until the bottom edge of the
Knob contacts the spring bottom bracket. Gently tighten to retain this setting.
Note: When locking out the tension spring, the Proximity Sensor and 'Full Automatic
Cutter Set' (found in the "To Engraver" dialog) may NOT be used. Spring compression by the
operation of the Z-Axis is necessary for these features to be active. See 'Manual Cutter Set at
Start' in the software manual and in the Software Help Files for setting the Z-Axis with the
tension spring locked out.
One Final Note: EXTREME CAUTION should be used when attempting this type of
engraving. Complete knowledge of the control of the Z-Axis is highly recommended before
attempting to engrave with the Z-Axis Tension Spring locked out. (see Z Stroke, Z Home, Z
Up and Down Speeds and Z Delay all found in the Xenetech Help Files.)
Page 25
The Brass Spring Tension Knob
Turn to the Left to Increase

Spring Tension
Turn to the Right to Decrease

Spring Tension
Close-up of Brass Spring
Tension Knob
Z Axis assembly highlighting the Brass Spring Tension Knob
Light Spring Tension
Page 26
Medium Spring Tension
Spring Locked Out
Raising or Lowering the Y-Axis Gantry (Riser Block Spacers)

For greater clearance of the Y-Axis Gantry to the engraving surface, the 25x25 and 25x50
are equipped with Riser Block Spacers (Two 1 inch and Two 2 inch per side). In the stock
configuration, none of the spacers are installed to raise the Gantry, they are simply stored
above the Gantry on the DoveTail uprights. Installing Riser Block Spacers is a simple procedure, however, you may want to get a helper when actually 'raising' the Gantry, as it is not only
heavy, but needs to be raised evenly on both of the DoveTail uprights.
To Raise the Y-Axis Gantry:
1.)Loosen the Locking Thumb Screws for the Riser Block Spacers. When properly
loosened, the bottoms of the Thumb Screws should be flush with the bottom side of the
DoveTail Top Cap.
2.)Remove all 8 spacers (4 per side) from the DoveTail uprights and temporarily set
them aside.
3.Loosen the three Locking Screws for the DoveTail Gib.
4.)Carefully raise the Gantry, by lifting up on its under side closest to the DoveTail
uprights. It is important to raise the Gantry evenly, so now is a good time to find someone to help you. You will need to raise the Gantry slightly higher than the height of the
chosen number of spacers (i.e. raise it approximately 1.5 inches for a single one inch
spacer).
5.)With your free hand, place a Riser Block Spacer on the inner side of the DoveTail
base, aligning the holes in the spacer with the steel dowel pins in the DoveTail base. If
more than one spacer is installed, be sure to maintain alignment of the steel dowel pins
to the holes in surrounding spacers/ DoveTail bases. Install the same amount of spacers to both left and right DoveTail bases. Properly installed spacers have the 'cross'
member toward the inside of the engraver, and the steel dowel pins 'up'.
6.)Lower the Y-Axis Gantry down onto the installed Riser Block Spacers.
7.)Install the remaining Riser Block Spacers back on the top portion of the DoveTail
uprights (aligning of the steel dowel pins to the holes in surrounding spacers and the top
DoveTail uprights).
8.)Tighten the Locking Thumb Screws for Riser Block Spacers, being sure to snug all
four down evenly. This helps to maintain the structural integrity of the Y-Axis Gantry. The
bottom ends of these screws should end up in the dowel pin holes of the upper most
spacer (or DoveTail upright, if ALL spacers were used to raise the Gantry) when properly installed.
9.)Tighten the three Locking Screws for the doveTail Gib.
To Lower the Y-Axis Gantry:
1.)Perform the above steps, however, when you get to step 5, remove any installed
spacers, and at step 6, lower the Y-Axis Gantry back onto the DoveTail bases.
Page 27
Riser Block Spacers

1 inch spacers
Bottom of Thumb
Screws flush with bottom
side of the DoveTail Cap
2 inch spacers
Remember to
repeat each
process for
both the left and
right DoveTail
Uprights!
Back left view of DoveTail assembly
(standard configuration, with
spacers stored on top)
Locking Thumb Screws loosened

and ALL spacers removed
Tighten!
Stored spacers
Tighten
Loosen
1 inch spacer
Loosen center Locking

Thumb Screws, time to raise
the Gantry!
Page 28
One 1 inch spacer installed to raise Gantry,

three remaining spacers reinstalled on top for
storage, and ALL Thumb Screws retightened
Hooking Up a Vacuum Chip Removal System

The Xenetech 25x25 and 25x50 are basically 'vacuum ready'. All that is needed is a
*Vacuum Chip Removal System and a few minutes to make the necessary connections.
Why use a Vacuum Chip Removal System?
The answer is simple. Reduced mess. When rotary engraving, you are removing material. That material has to go somewhere. Without a vacuum system, 'chips' land wherever
they please, usually all over your engraving table, your work area and the floor, etc. A
Vacuum Chip Removal System places a 'foot' around the cutter with a suction, 'catching' the
chips and placing them in a container.
To Install a Vacuum Chip Removal System:
1.)Find a convenient location to place the vacuum pump, keeping in mind that the
canister needs to be emptied occasionally.
2.)Connect the table supplied vacuum hose from the table to the top of the vacuum
canister (see instructions for vacuum pump for details).
3.)Remove the standard steel nose cone from the micrometer (Both the steel nose
cone and the vacuum foot nose cone screw onto the micrometer. Hold the micrometer
with one hand and rotate the steel nose cone retaining ring to the left to remove the
standard steel nose cone.)
4.)Install the vacuum foot nose cone onto the micrometer, by screwing it on in place of
the steel nose cone.
5.)Connect the opposite end of the table supplied vacuum hose to the spout on the
vacuum foot nose cone. This end of the vacuum hose exits through a hole in the
Alligator Tracking near the Spindle Motor.
6.)Place the Mode Switch found on the Motor Speed Control (MSC) in the 'OFF'
position.
7.)Plug the power cord of the vacuum pump into the Auxiliary Outlet on the back side
of the MSC enclosure.
Note: When changing from the standard steel nose cone to the vacuum foot nose cone,
your cutters will have to be re-zeroed. See page 20.
Using the Vacuum Chip Removal System:
The Vacuum Chip Removal System is controlled in the same manner in which the
spindle motor is controlled; using the Mode 'Auto/Off/On' switch found on the front of the
MSC.
Note: The Motor Power Unit (MPU) must be 'ON' for the 'ON' position of the above
mentioned switch to work.
*Vacuum Chip Removal Systems can be purchased through your Xenetech representative, or you can
simply supply your own vacuum and purchase the vacuum foot nose cone only.
Page 29
Connecting a Vacuum Chip Removal System

Vacuum Pump
Hose
Vacuum Pump Hose
Left side view of engraver
6 AMP
FUSE
90 VDC
MOTOR
110 VAC
AUXILIARY
Rear view of Motor Speed

Control. Plug the power
cord of the vacuum pump
into the Auxiliary Outlet.
Vacuum Pump
Vacuum Hose
(Clear)
Spindle with Steel Nose Cone
Vacuum Foot
Nose Cone
Z Axis (Spindle) assembly with vacuum
Spindle with Vacuum Foot Nose Cone
foot and hose connected
Replace the standard steel nose cone with the vacuum foot and connect the hose
Page 30
Replacing/Adjusting the Spindle

The Spindle is held in place by a two piece spindle block. The two halves of the spindle
block are held together by two Allen head screws. The Spindle is clamped in between these
two blocks. That's it.
To Remove the Spindle:
1.)Remove the smaller belt by stretching it over the top of the Spindle pulley.
2.)While holding the Spindle, use a 9/64 Allen wrench to loosen the two screws located in the front halve of the spindle block. Upon loosening, the Spindle will drop, so
hang on to it.
3.)Completely remove the screws and the front half of the spindle block.
To Install the Spindle:
Installing the Spindle is basically the reverse of steps 1 through 3 above, however there
are two important concepts you should be aware of for proper alignment of both the Spindle
and the spindle block halves:
1.)When properly installed, the gaps between the two spindle block halves on either
side of the Spindle, should be relatively equal. If they are not, loosen the screw on the
side where the gap is smaller and tighten the other side to even the gaps.
2.)The vertical position of the Spindle in the spindle block halves is adjustable (approximately 0.5 inches up and down). However for optimum usage of Spindle travel, check
for belt alignment of the top pulley on the Spindle to the bottom edge of the idler pulley
with the Z-Axis in its down position. It is easiest to view this with the smaller belt reinstalled (You may have to rotate the idler pulley to help 'walk' the belt down as you bring
the Z-Axis down). Proper alignment will display the belt completely horizontal, and not
resting on the bottom edge of the idler pulley.
Page 31
The Spindle and the Mounting Block
Allen head screws
The Z-Axis assembly at

Mechanical Home
Close up of the front half of the Spindle Block
Horizontal belt alignment with Z-Axis in a full down position.

The Z-Axis assembly in its
down position
Page 32
Opening/Removing the Belt Cover

The Belt Cover is held in place with a single thumb screw in front and two Allen head
screws on back at the top of the spindle motor. The purpose of this belt cover is to keep
things like fingers or vacuum hoses from becoming 'caught' in the belt.
To Open the Cover:
1.)Locate and loosen the small thumb screw mounted to the front of the idler pulley
mount (part 'F' on page 8).
2.)Raise the cover and gently place it on its rubber back stop. The back of the cover is
hinged with a rubber stop to prevent over extending the hinge.
To Remove the Cover:
1.)Open the cover as described above.
2.)Remove the large spindle belt from the spindle motor pulley (part #10 on page 2)
and idler pulley (part #9 on page 2).
3.)Loosen the two set screws in the spindle motor pulley (found near base of the
pulley).
4.)Remove the pulley.
5.)Loosen the two screws holding the back edge of the cover to the motor (near the
hinged edge of the cover).
6.)Slide the cover away from the spindle motor to remove it (this part of the cover is
slotted for adjustment and easy removal).
Page 33
Opening the Belt Cover
Belt
Cover
Hinge
Thumb
Screw
The Z-Axis Assembly with cover installed and closed

Spindle
Motor
Pulley
Belt
Cover
Bolts
Top view of spindle motor pulley with belt cover fully opened exposing its retention bolts
Page 34
Chapter 3
Lubrication and Preventative Maintenance
This Chapter shows you 'where' and 'when' to lubricate and clean your new investment.
As with any equipment, the better you take care of it, the longer it will last and perform properly (hint, hint). Changing motor brushes and spindle belts are also covered.
Note: This chapter assumes you have read chapter 1 and have a basic understanding of the
different table components and their locations. Where applicable, references will be made to
previous illustrations by page number and component number (letter).
X, Y, and Z-Axis Leadscrews

When and How Often to Lubricate
What NOT to Lubricate
Cleaning Your Engraver
Spindle Motor Brushes
Spindle Belts (Removal/Replacement)
Page 35
X, Y, and Z-Axis Leadscrews...Our friends

All three axes are actuated by a Leadscrew/Leadscrew Nut assembly. A Leadscrew is a
threaded shaft or rod. The Leadscrews are made out of stainless steel and resemble a long
shiny screw. The Leadscrew Nuts are made out of Polyacetal (a high tech form of plastic).
The Leadscrew Nuts are spring pre-loaded for precise, adjustment free operation.
While the Leadscrews span the entire length of each axis, each Leadscrew Nut is
mounted rigid to its respective axis (The Y-Axis nut mounts to the back of the Z-Axis Carriage
Plate, the Y-Axis nut mounts under the engraving surface on the bridge under carriage, and
the Z-Axis nut mounts below the bottom bracket which supports the Tension Spring).
To summarize this technically wordy intro, the Leadscrews working with (actually
through) the Leadscrew Nuts are what actually make the axes move. Without these, you
would own a very large high tech piece of stationary aluminum. It is important to understand
the basic mechanics to appreciate why you must lubricate your table, as well as use this
knowledge to your advantage in the event of a mechanical problem.
Friction...Our foe
If you hadn't already guessed, the Leadscrew 'screws' through the Leadscrew nut, creating friction where the two surfaces meet. Our goal for a smooth quiet operating engraving
table is to minimize the inevitable effects of friction. Lubrication is the method we use to help
minimize the friction developed between these two crucial parts of your engraving table.
Lubricating the engraving table on a regular basis is quite painless so please read on...
FIRST: Positioning the X and Y axes...
1.)Turn on your computer and engraving system (namely the Motor Power Unit
(MPU)) and enter the Xenetech Graphic Workstation Software. (Start Windows and
'double click' on the Xenetech Icon. See page SI-1 in the back of the Hardware/Software Setup manual for further details)
2.)'Click' on 'Open' found under the "File" menu.
3.)Select the job named 'slew2525.xot' (or slew2550.xot if you own a 25x50 engraver) by
'clicking' on it and then 'click' on the "OK" button.
This may appear to be a blank screen job, but it has a single period (.) in the far bottom
right corner. Press the large 'plus' (+) key on the far right side of your keyboard next to the
number pad to select the period (.). You will see a small select box surrounding the period (.)
on the plate and an actual period at the very bottom of the screen in the status line.
4.)Moving your attention to the Graphic Workstation Pendant momentarily, place the
'START TABLE' switch in the "OFF" (middle) position.
5.)Place the 'PAUSE/CONTINUE' switch in the "PAUSE" position.
6.)Place the 'CUTTER' switch in the "UP" (middle) position.
7.)Press the 'MECHANICAL HOME' switch (this is to make sure you are starting from
the home location).
8.)Send this job to the engraver with infinite repeats set: Press the 'F1' key (the Hot
Key for 'To Engraver'), set 'Number Repeats' to zero (0) and press "OK".
9.)CAUTION: This step will cause your engraving table to move!!! Make sure there is
Page 36

nothing blocking or inhibiting either the X or Y axes. Press the 'START TABLE' switch in the
start direction.
The purpose here is to move both the X and Y axes to their farthest extremes and pause at that
location. The Z-Axis will not have any functionality and will remain up for this exercise. So, at this
point, your table should have moved and stopped at the bottom right corner of the engraving
surface.
Lubricating the Y-Axis Leadscrew (the Gantry):
(Please refer to the diagrams on pages 2, 3, and 16)
1.)Expose the Y-Axis Leadscrew : Remove the three Allen head screws used to mount the
right end cap for the Y-Axis Bellows.
2.)Gently slide the right end of the bellows to the left (the bellows is suspended by two cables,
and will slide on these cables). You should now see the Y-Axis Leadscrew and the Linear
Slide rails running horizontally across the entire Gantry from left to right.
3.)Inspect the exposed area and vacuum out any chips or debris that may have accumulated through use of your engraver.
4.)Using a Teflon based lubricant*, apply the lubricant directly to the Leadscrew using
the supplied nozzle. Try to apply enough to lay a bead of lubricant just on the top edge
of the Leadscrew. Over lubricating will only make a mess and is not the idea; just a
light coat is required.
5.)Apply a small amount of lubricant to a rag and wipe down the Linear Slide rails.
6.)Slide the bellows end cap back to the left and reinstall it.
Lubricating the X-Axis Leadscrew (under the engraving table surface):
(Please refer to the diagrams on pages 2, and 3)
1.)Locate the X-Axis Leadscrew: This leadscrew is located under the main engraving table
surface and spans the full length of the engraver.
2.)Apply lubricant directly to the Leadscrew using the same procedure as the Y-Axis.
3.)Apply a small amount of lubricant to a rag and wipe down the Linear Slide rails.
Slewing the Engraving Table:
Now that both the X and Y axes have been lubricated and the bellows have been reinstalled, it is necessary to evenly distribute the lubricant on the Leadscrews. This can be easily
achieved by simply running the currently paused job several times, So:
1.)CAUTION: This step will cause your engraving table to move!!! Place the 'PAUSE/
CONTINUE' switch back to the "CONTINUE" position.
2.)Your engraving table should now be back at the home location. Also note that the green
'READY' light is still illuminated telling you there are more repeats of the job waiting.
3.)CAUTION: This step will cause your engraving table to move!!! Place the 'START TABLE'
switch in the "AUTO" position. This will allow the waiting job not only to start, but will also
repeat until stopped or cancelled.
4.)Allow this job to run at least 10 to 12 times.
5.)To stop the engraver, place the 'START TABLE' switch back to the "OFF" position, and
wait for the engraver to stop at the home location.
* Recommended Teflon based lubricants include SUPER LUBE and TRI-FLOW. DO NOT use
WD-40, Graphite, 90wt. gear lube, animal fat or any other lubricant or your warranty is void.
Page 37

6.)Press the 'MECHANICAL HOME' switch. This will cancel the pending job causing the
green 'READY' light to go out.
This entire process of lubricating and exercising the X and Y Axis back and forth using
this special job is known as "Slewing the Table".
Lubricating the Z-Axis Leadscrew:
1.)Home the engraving table: Press the 'MECHANICAL HOME' switch on the Pendant.
2.)Apply a small amount of the Teflon lubricant to the exposed bottom half of the ZAxis Leadscrew (approximately 2 inches of the Leadscrew will be exposed).
3.)Place the 'STEPPER MOTOR' switch to the "OFF" position.
4.)Manually lower and raise the Z-Axis by rotating the Z-Axis Stepper Motor Knob.
Repeat at least 4 or 5 times to spread the lubricant on the Leadscrew and nut assembly.
5.)IMPORTANT: Place the 'STEPPER MOTOR' back to the "LOCK" or "AUTO" position.
6.)Press the 'MECHANICAL HOME' switch to re-home the table.
Page 38
When and How Often to Lubricate?

This is actually a trick question, because the answer isn't in terms of time. A preventive
lubrication schedule will be recommended, however, due to environmental conditions, usage
of the engraver and the type of lubrication, variations in this schedule will more than likely be
encountered.
There are obvious signs to watch for to help determine that it may be time to lubricate
your engraving table. Here's a list:
1.)Squeaking or squealing when engraving or traversing.
2.)One or more axes stalls creating a high pitch 'squealing' noise.
2.)Engraver is losing steps (losing baselines, home positions, etc.).
3.)Poor engraving quality (jagged lines, etc.).
If you have never experienced any of the above, you probably have done a good job
maintaining your engraver. If this isn't the case (meaning you have never lubricated your
engraver from day one), then perhaps you are just waiting for the most inopportune time for
Murphy's Law to take advantage of you. We recommend that at least every 4 to 6 weeks
you lubricate your engraver following the directions described in the beginning of this chapter.
And don't forget to 'slew' your table, this is very important!
Think About This....
The more often a machine is run, the more hours of run time between lubrication periods. A machine run 8 hours a day, 6 days a week, with jobs covering the whole table surface,
will run many more hours between lubrication periods than a machine run once a week for
one hour. A 'well run' machine keeps the lubrication 'well seasoned', if you will, and evenly
spread out on the components. Lubrication on a less run machine will dry, evaporate,or 'gum
up', requiring more frequent maintenance (when 'comparing hours run/lubrication periods' to a
machine with heavy use).
Page 39
What NOT to Lubricate

To put it bluntly, do NOT lubricate anything not previously mentioned in this chapter.
Other moving parts such as the Spindle and Idler Pulley are supported by pre-lubricated
precision bearings. The lubricant used in these bearings is normally a high speed grease,
which when left alone has a long life span. They are NOT user serviceable. Using any oil
based lubricant will only break down the grease and cause premature failure, requiring bearing replacement. If you are in doubt, please call first.
Other components that are not user serviceable are the bearings that ride on the Linear
Slides supporting the X, Y, and Z axes (parts 15, 26, and 28 on pages 2 & 3). These bearings
are sealed and factory greased and should NOT be removed or lubricated under any circumstances. Removal of any of these bearings is not supported by any Xenetech warranty.
Page 40
Cleaning Your Engraver

Under most circumstances, you might need to vacuum off any excess of chips or shavings created while engraving, and/or wipe off any grease or cutting fluid. For painted or anodized parts and the bellows on the Xenetech engraver, use any household spray de-greaser
(like 409). If nothing else, take some time after periodically lubricating your table to clean it
up.
The Bottom Line...
Keep it clean! As with any piece of machinery, keeping it clean and taking good care of
your engraver will certainly extend its life. Parts such as the bearings, linear slides, spindles,
etc. are very expensive to replace. A little preventative maintenance now, can and will save
you down time and $$$ in the long run. Just some friendly advice.
Page 41
Spindle Motor (the Brushes specifically)

The only user serviceable parts on the Spindle Motor are the Brushes. DC (direct current) motors such as the one on the engraver use carbon brushes (two per motor) which 'ride'
on a copper rotating surface within the motor known as the commutator. Through regular use,
the carbon brushes will wear, requiring replacement. We have found an average life span for
motor brushes to fall somewhere in between 1 and 2 years (actual life spans may vary due to
the amount of usage and the environmment).
Symptoms to watch for:
1.)Motor is starting to lose power, or doesn't appear to maintain speed settings when
loaded (after the cutter has penetrated the engraving material).
2.)Motor 'stutters' or doesn't run smoothly.
3.)Interference generated by worn spindle motor (called electrical'noise') causes Z
Axis to malfunction (does not raise and lower properly while engraving).
4.)Motor does not run.
In addition to the above symptoms, a periodic inspection of the brushes will indicate
whether or not replacement is necessary. As the brushes wear, they will become shorter in
length. New brushes measure approxomatley 1/2 inch from the curved end to the spring end.
To remove the brushes:
1.)Important!! To avoid the possibility of electrical shock, disconnect the power to the
spindle motor by unplugging the white motor plug located on the back of the motor.
2.)Locate and remove the rubber boots covering the brush caps.
3.)Using a 'flat blade' (or 'slotted') screw driver, remove the brush caps by turning the
cap counter clockwise. Be prepared to 'catch' the brush cap, as the brush is spring
loaded against the cap.
4.)In the next step, you will actually remove the brush. For reinstallation, it is important
to position the brushes the same way they came out. As you proceed with step 5,
place a mark using a felt tip marker, on the top side of the brush.
5.)Remove the brush by gently pulling on the retaining spring.
Inspecting the brushes:
As mentioned above, new brushes measure approximately 1/2 inch in length (see length
'A' in the "DC Motor Brush" diagram). It is recommended to replace the brushes when the
length reaches 1/4 inch or less. Although the spindle motor will still operate, efficiency and
performance will be sacrificed, as well as increasing the chances of damaging the commutator, requiring rebuilding, or replacement of the spindle motor.
To install the brushes:
1.)If reinstalling the original brushes, make sure to position the brush with the mark
(placed on the brush in step 4 above) facing upward. If installing new brushes, just
make sure the curved end of the brush matches the curvature of the outer housing of
the motor.
2.)Carefully press the retaining spring into the brush hood. This can be a little tricky, so
take your time.
3.)Once the spring is in place, it is possible to position the brush contact 'square' in the
brush hood, and 'wedge' one of its edges into the surrounding threads. This will tempoPage 42

rarily hold the spring/brush assembly in place for the next step.
4.)Replace the brush cap by turning it clockwise using a screw driver.
The Spindle Motor
Motor
Shaft
White
Motor
Plug
Brush
cap
Right rear view of the Spindle Motor, the white motor plug,
and the brush cap
Brush
Cap
Brush Hood Protector
Motor
Shaft
Motor
Brush
Motor
Brush
Brush
Cap
Brush Hood Protector

Top view of the spindle motor (with large pulley removed for definition)
Retaining
Spring
Curved
Edge
Brush
Contact
Brush
Shunt Wire
A
Curved end of
the brush
Looking from the top of

the motor, the curved
end of the brush should
be visible; in this
position
DC Motor Brush, measure length 'A' to determine brush wear.
Page 43
Spindle Belt Removal/Replacement

Spindle rotation, as provided by the spindle motor, is transferred through the use of two
belts, one large belt connecting the spindle motor to the idler pulley, and a smaller belt making the connection from the idler pulley to the actual spindle itself.
Important Safety Note: To avoid accidental operation of the spindle motor while performing the following steps, it is recommended to unplug the power cable of the Motor Speed
Control (MSC).
To Remove the belts:
1.)Open the belt cover as described on pages 33 and 34.
2.)Remove the large belt first by lifting an edge of the belt near the large spindle motor
pulley and rotating the pulley by hand.
3.)For the small belt, remove any cutters and/or draw bars (if using a collet spindle).
4.)Lift an edge of the belt near the spindle pulley and rotate the spindle by
hand,allowing the belt to rise above the spindle pulley.
5.)Remove the belt from the idler pulley.
To Replace the belts:
1.)Remove any cutters and/or draw bars (if using a collet spindle).
2.)Place the smaller of the two belts over the idler pulley.
3.)Place the 'Stepper Motor Switch' on the 'Pendant' to the "Lock" position (this helps
to keep the spindle from lowering when installing the belt).
4.)To stretch the belt over the spindle pulley, begin by placing one side of the belt in the
pulley groove, holding it in place with a finger and rotating the spindle to 'pull' it around
the rest of the pulley. The fit is tight, and may take more than one try, so don't get
discouraged.
5.)Place the larger belt around the idler pulley first making sure you are in the upper
area of the pulley provided for the belt.
6.)As in step 4, place one side of the belt in the pulley groove, hold it in place with a
finger and rotate the spindle motor pulley to 'pull' it around the rest of the pulley.
7.)Rotate the spindle motor pulley by hand to make sure the belts appear to be in
place.
8.)Close the belt cover and secure it with the thumb screw.
9.)Reconnect the motor speed control power cord.
10.)All done!
Page 44
Installing the
Spindle Belts
To install the small belt,place one side of the belt in the pulley groove, hold it in place
with a finger and rotate the spindle to 'pull' it around the rest of the pulley.
Place the large belt around the top of the idler pulley, then start the belt around the large
spindle motor pulley by placing one side of the belt in the groove, and rotate the pulley.
Rotate the spindle motor pulley by hand to make sure the belts appear to be in place.
Page 45
Page 46
Chapter 4
Wiring Diagrams
Table Wiring Overview

The Table Interface Board (TIB)
The Z-Axis Terminal Strip
Page 47

Z-Axis Tracking Cable
(found inside the
"Alligator Track" and
flexible wire loom)
Table Wiring Overview
Z-Axis Terminal Strip

(Under black cover)
Table Interface Board

(Under engraving
table surface, enclosed in cover)
1.)
The Table Interface Board (TIB) - The Table Interface Boards terminates all table
wiring and provides a 37 pin connector for easy connection/disconnection to and from the
electronics (namely the Motor Power Unit - MPU).
2.)
The Z-Axis Tracking Cable - This cable provides the 'flexible' connection of the ZAxis and its components as well as the Y-Axis Limit Switch. The Z-Axis components consist
of the Z-Stepper Motor, the Z-Axis Limit Switch, and The Proximity Sensor.
3.)
The Z-Axis Terminal Strip - The Z-Axis Terminal Strip terminates the Z-Axis Tracking
Cable and provides connections for the components described above (in number 2).
Page 48
The Table Interface Board
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Made in U.S.A.
Xenetech USA Inc.
20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 GND
PN# TIB37A
The Table Interface Board (TIB, part # TIB37A)
TIB Socket Number
Wire Color
Item
Item Wire Color
7
26
28
9
4
23
25
6
1
20
3
22
34
12
31
33
31
32
31
13
31
12
18
19
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
PINK
GRAY
GREEN
BROWN
RED
BLUE
GREEN
YELLOW
BLACK
PURPLE
BROWN
YELLOW
WHITE
PINK
BLACK
WHITE
BROWN
BLACK
RED
WHITE
X-AXIS
STEPPER
MOTOR
RED
WHITE/RED
GREEN
WHITE/GREEN
RED
WHITE/RED
GREEN
WHITE/GREEN
RED
WHITE/RED
GREEN
WHITE/GREEN
BLACK
BLUE
BROWN
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
Y-AXIS
STEPPER
MOTOR
Z-AXIS
STEPPER
MOTOR
PROXIMITY
SENSOR
X AXIS LIMIT SWITCH
Y AXIS LIMIT SWITCH
Z AXIS LIMIT SWITCH
MOTOR SPEED
CONTROL CABLE
N/A
Page 49
The Z Axis Terminal Strip
Item
Item Wire Color
Z Terminal Strip
Z Tracking Cable Wire Color
Spindle Motor End

X AXIS LIMIT
SWITCH
RED
PINK
Z AXIS LIMIT
SWITCH
RED
WHITE
COMMON
BROWN & 2 BLACK
BROWN
PROXIMITY SENS.
(SIGNAL)
BLACK
BLACK
PROXIMITY SENS.
(GROUND)
BLUE
PURPLE
GREEN/WHITE
YELLOW
GREEN
GREEN
RED/WHITE
BLUE
RED
RED
Z AXIS STEPPER
MOTOR
Stepper Motor End
Page 50
Index
I
L
Leadscrews 36
"Alligator" Track 5
Linear Slides(X, Y, and Z Axes) 4

Lubrication 37
When and How Often? 39
Base Plate 4
Bellows/Covers 15
Y-Axis 16
Belt Cover
opening/removing 33
Cleaning Your Engraver 41

Clear Vacuum Hose 6
Cutters
Installing 18
Setting Engraving Depth 20
"Zeroing" 20
Motor Speed Control Power Cord (VAC IN) 6
Placing Material on the T-Slot Table 24
Diagrams
Connecting a Vacuum Chip Removal System 30
Dovetail Assemblies/Spacers for risers 12
Installing the Spindle Belts 45
Micrometer 8
Opening the Belt Cover 34
Riser Block Spacers 28
Setting Engaving Depth 23
Spindles (Top Load/Collet) 19
Table Overview 2, 3
Table Wiring Overview 48
The Brass Spring Tension Knob 26
The Spindle and the Mounting Block 32
The Spindle Motor 43
The Table Interface Board 49
The Z Axis Terminal Strip 50
Z-Axis Overview 8
"Zeroing" Cutters 22
Dove Tail Gantry Uprights 5
Dovetail Assemblies/Spacers for risers 11
DoveTail Gib 13
DoveTail Upright 13
Locking Thumb Screw for DoveTail Gib 13
Locking Thumb Screws/Set Screws 13
Riser Block Spacers 13
Top Cap/Locking Thumb Screws 13
Slewing
Slewing the Engraving Table 37

Spindle 4,
Collet 18
Replacing/Adjusting 31
Spindle Belt Removal/Replacement 44
Spindle Motor 6
Spindle Motor Pulley 4
T
Tension Spring
Adjusting/Locking Out 25
V
Vacuum Chip Removal System 29
Wiring Diagrams
Table Wiring Overview 48
The Z-Axis Terminal Strip 50
Flexible Wire Loom 5
Page 51

X
X-Axis
Leadscrew 5, 36
Stepper Motor 4
Stepper Motor Knob 5
Y
Y-Axis
Bellows 5
Bellows/Covers 16
Gantry 4
Leadscrew 4, 36
Leadscrew Knob 5
Stepper Motor 4
Z
Z-Axis
(Carriage) Plate 9
Adjusting the Spring Tension 25
Brass Spring Tension Knob 9
Diagram 8
Idler Pulley 9
Idler Pulley Mount 9
Intro 7
Lead Screw 10
Lead Screw Coupling 9
Lead Screw Mount Bolts (X-Axis) 10
Leadscrew 5, 36
Limit Switch 10
Limit Switch Mount, Bushing Mount 10
Linear Slide 9
Locking Out the Tension Spring 25
Micrometer 10
Micrometer Stop 10
Nose Cone Retaining Ring 10
Proximity Sensor 9
Spindle Belt 10
Spindle Mounting Block 9
Spindle Quill (Outer Housing) 10
Steel Nose Cone (Non-Vacuum) 10
Stepper Motor 4, 9
Stepper Motor Knob 6, 9
Tension Spring 9
Terminal Strip 6
The Z Axis Terminal Strip 50
Page 52

System 2525 &amp; 2550

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System 2525 &amp; 2550

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Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

The Table (An Overview)

The 25x50 Engraving Table

The 25x25 Engraving Table

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

1.)Base Plate (EngravingSurface)

9.)Table Interface Board Cover

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Right View of the 25x25 Engraving Table

17.)Tubular Support Frame (under Base Plate)

See Pages 4 - 6 for explanation of each component.

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

A.)Z-Axis (Carriage) Plate

The Z-Axis Assembly

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Dovetail Assemblies/Spacers for risers

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Riser Block Spacers

Steel Dowel Pins

One Inch Spacer (2 per DoveTail Upright, (6))

Two Inch Spacers (2 per DoveTail Upright (7))

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Y-Axis Bellows : End Caps and Hardware

Mounting Screws (3 screws and washers)

Left and Right End Cap for Y-Axis Bellows

Y-Axis Bellows Right End Cap

Right Section of the Y-Axis Gantry, Bellows and DoveTail Upright

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Installing Cutters (Top Load Spindle, Collet Spindle)

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

While holding the

Standard Top Load

Collet Spindle and

(Bottom views of a Solid Collet

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

"Zeroing" Cutters/Setting Engraving Depth

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Splined Set Screw

Cutter too low

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Setting an Engraving Depth (Using a Nose Cone and a 'Zeroed' Cutter)

Start with an installed 'zeroed' cutter

Cutter flush with

Rotate the Micrometer to the right 20 'clicks'. You

Cutter exceeds beyond bottom

When finished engraving, return the Micrometer

Cutter flush with

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Placing Material on the Engraving Surface

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

Adjusting the Spring Tension

Locking Out the Tension Spring

Xenetech 25x25 - 25x50 Table Manual

System 2525 & 2550

System 2525 & 2550