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K

I T W

FIRST TIME SOCKS


TOP-DOWN MAGIC LOOP TECHNIQUE
Yarn:
436 yds/400m of fingering weight yarn or
436 yds/400m of sport weight yarn or
436 yds/400m of worsted weight yarn
Needles:
US 1/2.25 mm 32 circular -fingering weight or
US 2/2.75 mm 32 circular -fingering weight or
US 3/3.25 mm 32 circular - sport weight or
US 6/4 mm 32 circular - worsted weight
Glossary:
k2tog: knit 2 together
RS: Right side
skp: slip one st knitwise, knit one st, pass the
slipped stitch over (this action is like a bind-off).
WS: Wrong side
Sizes:
Mens sizes: 48 st worsted, 56 st sport, 60 st fingering
Ladies sizes: 44 st worsted , 52 st sport, 56 st fingering
Notes:
Always slip stitches purlwise, except when working
normal decreases; those should be slipped knitwise.
Cast-On and Set-Up:
Using the German Twisted Cast-On link, cast on 44
(48, 52, 56, 60) sts. Using the Magic Loop Tutorial
link, slide all sts onto the cable portion of the needle.
Find midpoint of the 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts and pull
cable up between the sts (you will have 22 (24, 26, 28,
30 sts on each side of the cable.) Push both sets of sts
down toward the tips of the needles. Join stitches in
the round, taking care that stitches are not twisted.
Ribbing and Leg:
Work a k2, p2 rib for 2.
Important Note: For the 44, 52, & 60 stitch sizes, to
stay in pattern, you will be beginning with purl sts on
the second half of the cable.

Work in stockinette st until sock leg is desired


length.
Note: When beginning the heel stitch, you will be
working flat - or back and forth in rows - rather than
circularly. You will only be working the stitches on the
back cable. To set up, begin with all the sts up on both tips
of the needle and pull out the front needle to become
your working needle (this action is the opposite of
working Magic Loop in the round).
Heel Stitch:
With work positioned so that the interior purl side is
facing, work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Slip 1, p to the end.
Row 2 (RS): *Slip 1, k1* to the end.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 28 (28, 28, 28, 30)
rows of the heel stitch worked. Note: If you are
working the heavier weight yarn with fewer stitches, you
may want to work more heel stitch rows to make sure that
your heel flap is deep enough. A good rule of thumb is if
you fold the heel flap down at a right angle, it should form
a complete triangle when the edge of the heel flap and the
edge of the live sts meet.
Note: Since the slipped sts are quite prominent, they are
easy to use when counting rows. Each slipped st counts

as two rows, so count 14 (14, 14, 14, 15) slipped stitches


to equal the 28 (28, 28, 28, 30) rows needed.
Turning the heel:
Row 1 (WS): Slip 1, p11 (12, 13, 14, 15), p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Slip 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn.
Note: At this point, look at your work and you should see
a gap between the sts on the needle where you turned and
worked back (see fig. 1). This is what you are looking for
to work the next two rows.
Fig. 1

Row 3: Slip 1, p until 1 st remains before the gap,


!
p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1, k until 1 st remains before the gap,
!
ssk, k1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all sts are worked.
For the 44, 52, & 60 stitch sizes:
The last two rows will not have the single stitch to
work after the decreases.
Note: Dont get your knickers in a twist about getting
the exact number of sts called for when picking up the
gusset stitches. If youre a stitch or two off, dont worry
about it; just make sure you pick up the same amount on
the other side.
Picking up gusset stitches to join back in round:
Starting on right side of heel gusset, pull out
working needle tip from heel sts and pick up 12 (13,
14, 15 16) sts up the side of the heel flap, going
under both strands of the chain stitch. Knit across
instep stitches. Pull out working needle tip to give
yourself more cable and pick up 12 (13, 14, 15 16) sts
down the other side of the heel flap.
You are now joined back in the round. Redistribute
sts on cables so that all the instep sts are on one side
of the cable and all the heel and gusset sts are on the
other side of the cable. Pull cables through at those 2
junctures.
Place a stitch marker at the far right of the heel and
gusset sts to designate the new beginning of round.
Work to the end of cable 1 (heel & gusset sts), then
to the end of cable 2 (instep sts). You are now set up
to begin the gusset decreases.
Decreasing Gusset Stitches:
Round 1:

Cable 1 (Heel & Gusset sts):


k1, skp, work to last 3 sts on this side of cable; k2tog, k1.
Cable 2 (Instep sts):
Knit (no decreases on this side of the cable!)
Round 2: k
Repeat these two rounds (alternating a decrease
round with a round of plain knitting) until there are 22
(24, 26, 28, 30) sts on each side of the cable. Continue
knitting without shaping until sock reaches the bottom
of your little toe.
Toe Decreases:
Round 1:
Cable 1 (Heel & Gusset sts):
k1, skp, work to last 3 sts on this side of cable; k2tog, k1.
Cable 2 (Instep sts):
k1, skp, work to last 3 sts on this side of cable; k2tog, k1.
Round 2: k Repeat these two rounds (alternating

a decrease round with a round of plain knitting)


until 12 sts remain on each side of the cable (24
sts total). Break yarn leaving a tail approximately
three times the length of the toe seam.
Join Toe with Kitchener Stitch:
Use Kitchener Stitch Tutorial link for video help.
Threading the yarn tail with a blunt-edged needle, hold
both needles together in your left hand with the yarn
end coming from the first stitch on the back needle.
Set up stitches: Draw the yarn purlwise through
the first stitch on the front needle, and leave it on the
needle. Now draw the yarn knitwise through the
first stitch on the back needle and leave it on the
needle.
Four Step Kitchener Stitch
1. With tapestry needle tip, slip first stitch off the
front needle knitwise.
2. Put tapestry needle tip into second stitch on front
needle purlwise and draw yarn through, leaving
stitch on the needle.
3. With tapestry needle tip, slip first stitch off the
back needle purlwise.
4. Put tapestry needle tip into second stitch on back
needle knitwise, and draw yarn through, leaving
stitch on the needle.
Repeat these 4 steps until all the stitches are joined.
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