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BB

A DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT TO BEAD&BUTTON MAGAZINE

&

Your complete beading resource

IBER
R
C
S
B
SU USIVE
EXCgLust 2015
Au

Gemstones
+ Leather
INSTANT
FASHION!
p. 13

MAKE 4 BRACELETS, 2 NECKLACES, AND 1 RING!


Go-witheverything
bracelet p. 4

Art Deco-style bracelet


p. 10

Sand-and-sea
bracelet p. 16

Kumihimo
necklace and
bracelet p. 7

WELCOME!

B&B Extra August 2015

Style and variety

Please support
our fine sponsor!

e love being able to offer this bonus publication, B&B Extra, to our magazine subscribers. Its our way of letting you know how much we appreciate your loyalty and of saying thanks for being the great beady people

you are. This month, our issue is just bursting with projects featuring a great array
of beads and techniques! And theyre real beauties, too. We love Eveline Thudts
gorgeous bracelet (p. 4), featuring two-hole bar beads and seed beads. It requires
just a few supplies but offers a classic look that you will want to have in a rainbow
of colorways. And you can also make a matching ring! Helen Lamb Orendorfs
lovely kumihimo necklace and bracelet set (p. 7) features a soft color palette that
is perfect for social gatherings of all sorts. Stephanie Marie Goffs Art Deco-inspired
bracelet (p. 10) is a delight for two-hole bead lovers, while Marcy Kentzs gemstone
and leather necklace (p. 13) is a great way to make a couple strands of stone
briolettes go the distance. Finally, Corina Panaites textural bracelet (p. 16) will be

Simply
Click on

their logo above!

great fun for all you CRAW lovers out there. Happy beading!

Then click on
the ad to visit their
website. Ask for their
products at your favorite
bead shop!

Editor, Bead&Button
editor@beadandbutton.com

Contents
Bar none bracelet

Blooming braid necklace and bracelet

Art Deco encore bracelet

10

Dots, drops, and gems necklace

13

Raindrops on the Aegean bracelet

16

2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part

PLUS
Look for links throughout
the pages that will connect
you to more great content
and resources on the Web.

or in whole without written permission from the publisher. The designs in B&B Extra are for your personal
enjoyment. They may not be taught or sold without permission.

Editor Julia Gerlach

ADVERTISING

Senior Art Director Lisa A. Bergman

Corporate Advertising Director Ann E. Smith

Associate Editors
Cassie Donlen, Connie Whittaker
Contributing Editor Stacy Werkheiser
Editorial Assistant Lora Groszkiewicz
Graphic Designer Lisa M. Schroeder
Photographer Bill Zuback
Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Editorial Director Diane Bacha

Advertising Sales Lori Schneider


AdisServices
Melissa
Valuch,
This logo
for useRepresentatives
on masthead
only.
Nanette Hackbarth
Do not use less than 100% of full size.
B&B Extra is published bimonthly by Kalmbach
Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle,
P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612

Visit
www.BeadAndButton.com
for access to more
projects from
Bead&Button magazine.

Traditional Czech Beads

PRECIOSA Rocailles
PRECIOSA PipTM
PRECIOSA ThornTM
Click here for instructions to make floral accessory

DISTRIBUTORS OF PRECIOSA traditional Czech beadstM


John Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.com
Shipwreck Beads | 800-950-4232 | www.shipwreckbeads.com
Fire Mountain Gems and Beads | 800-355-2137 | www.firemountaingems.com
Beadsmith / Helby Import | 732-969-5300 | www.beadsmith.com
John F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.com
Frabels Inc. | 514-842-8561 | www.frabels.com
Har-Man Importing Co. | 1-800-232-3769 | www.harmanbeads.com

AGENTS FOR USA AND CANADA


Bead & Trim, Inc. | 212-725-9845 | traditional-czech-beads.com
Jablonex Canada Inc. | 416-675-1326 | jablonex.canada@gmail.com

PRECIOSA Traditional Czech Beads


PRECIOSA ORNELA, a.s. | Zsada 317, 468 25 Czech Republic
P +420 488 117 711, F +420 483 312 292, E beads@preciosa.com
preciosa-ornela.com

DESIGN BY HELENA CHMELKOV

TO DISCOVER MORE ABOUT


PRECIOSA traditional Czech beadstM
VISIT

traditional-czech-beads.com
MANUFACTURER

PRECIOSA ORNELA
Czech Republic

PRECIOSA Rocailles
Art N o . 311 19 001
Size: 10/0

PRECIOSA Pip tM
Art N o . 111 01 346
Size: 5x7 mm

PRECIOSA thorn tM
Art N o . 111 01 340
Size: 5x16 mm

BEAD WEAVING

Bar none
bracelet

Use two-hole bar beads to make


a bracelet that will (hands down!)
become your favorite goes-witheverything accessory.
designed by Eveline Thudt

2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in



August 2015
4
any form without permission from the publisher.

Difficulty rating

a
2 x 6 mm CzechMates
two-hole bar bead

150 seed bead

FIGURE 1

Materials

80 seed bead

copper/bronze bracelet 7 in.


(18 cm)

8 g 2 x 6 mm CzechMates two-hole bar


beads (matte metallic flax)
3 g 80 seed beads (Toho 221, bronze)
4 g 150 seed beads (Toho 222,
dark copper)
1 24 mm 4-strand box clasp
(www.claspgarten.com)
Fireline, 6 lb. test
beading needles, #12

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

gray bracelet colors


FIGURE 4

2 x 6 mm CzechMates two-hole bar


beads (hematite)
80 seed beads (Toho 711, nickel)
150 seed beads (Toho 773, Montana
blue-lined crystal AB)
2 foldover clasps
(www.mobile-boutique.com)
ruby bracelet colors

FIGURE 5

First row

1 On a comfortable length of thread,


pick up a two-hole bar and five 150
seed beads. Leaving a 12-in. (30 cm)
tail, sew through the open hole of the
bar (figure 1, ab). Pick up five 150s, sew
through the first hole of the bar, and
continue through the next three 150s
(bc). This completes the first bar unit.
2 Pick up two 150s, a bar, and five 150s.
Sew through the open hole of the bar
just added, pick up two 150s, and sew
through the 150 your thread exited at
the start of this step. Continue through
the next two 150s, bar, and three 150s
to complete the second bar unit
(figure 2).
3 Repeat step 2 for a third bar unit.
Repeat once more, but sew through
the beadwork as shown, skipping the
150 at the end of the unit (to form a
point) and exiting the 150, bar, and
150 at the top of the unit (figure 3).

Connecting 80s
Pick up an 80 seed bead, and sew
through the corresponding 150, bar,
and 150 at the top of the next unit.
Repeat this stitch twice (figure 4).

Next row

2 x 6 mm CzechMates two-hole bar


beads (matte metallic bronze iris)
80 seed beads (Toho 165CF, frosted
transparent rainbow garnet)
150 seed beads (Toho 165C, transparent
rainbow ruby)
10 mm magnetic ball clasp
(www.shipwreckbeads.com)

1 Work the following stitches to com-

Online beading basics

plete the bottom of the next row; the


top half of each unit will be completed
individually in future steps:
Pick up four 150s, a bar, and a 150,
and sew back through the last 80
added (figure 5, ab).
Pick up a 150, a bar, and a 150, and
sew back through the next 80 (bc).
Repeat this stitch (cd).
Pick up a 150, a bar, and four 150s.
Sew through the 150, bar, and 150 at the
top of the corresponding unit in the previous row, and continue through the 150,
bar, and 150 added in this stitch (de).
2 Complete the first unit of the next row
as follows:
Pick up four 150s, and sew through

www.BeadAndButton.com/basics

ending and adding thread

Eveline Thudt started beading


in 2010 after the birth of
her second daughter. She
is a beadwork teacher and
designer living in Germany,
and her work has been published
in several magazines. Contact her at
eveline@crystaltinker.com, or visit her
website, www.crystaltinker.com, to see
more of her work.


August 2015
5

b
d

c
b

FIGURE 6

FIGURE 7

g
the open hole of the adjacent bar
(figure 6, ab).
Pick up four 150s, and sew through
the corresponding 150, bar, and 150
at the bottom of this unit (bc).
Sew through the beadwork as
shown, skipping the 150 at the end
of the new unit (to form a point) and
exiting the 150 at the opposite end
of the unit (cd).
3 Complete the second unit of this row
as follows:
Pick up a 150, and sew through the
next 150, bar, and 150 in the previous
row (figure 7, ab).
Pick up four 150s, and sew through
the open hole of the same bar (bc).
Pick up two 150s, and sew through the
150 at the end of the previous unit (cd).
Sew through the beadwork as shown
to exit the 150 at the opposite end of
the new unit (de).
4 Complete the third unit of this row
as follows:
Pick up two 150s, and sew through the
open hole of the next bar (figure 8, ab).
Pick up four 150s, and sew through
the 150, bar, and 150 at the bottom of
this unit (bc).
Pick up a 150, and sew through the
150 at the end of the previous unit. Sew
through the beadwork to exit the 150 at
the opposite end of the new unit (cd).
5 Complete the fourth unit of this row
as follows:
Pick up a 150, and sew through the
next 150, bar, and 150 (de).
Pick up four 150s, and sew through
the open hole of the same bar (ef).
Pick up two 150s, and sew through the
150 at the end of the previous unit. Sew
through the beadwork as shown, skipping the 150 at the end of the new unit
(to form a point) and exiting the 150,
bar, and 150 at the top of the unit (fg).

f
e

a
c

FIGURE 8

clasp call

You can use single-strand clasps


instead of a four-strand version.
To use one clasp, like the magnetic
one in the ruby bracelet, attach it
to the center 80 at each end of the
bracelet. For two clasps, attach them
to the first and third 80s at each end
of the bracelet, as was done with the
foldover clasps in the gray bracelet.

Finishing

1 Alternate working the steps for


Connecting 80s and Next row for
the desired length bracelet, ending
and adding thread as needed. For
a 7-in. (18 cm) bracelet, work a total
of 27 rows of bar units. End with
Connecting 80s, with your thread
exiting the 150, bar, and 150 at the
top of the last unit.
2 Pick up two 150s, an outer loop
of the clasp, and two 150s, and sew
through the next 80. Repeat this stitch
twice. For the last stitch, pick up two
150s, a loop of the clasp, and two 150s,
and sew through the 150, bar, and 150
at the top of the corresponding unit.
Retrace the thread path, and end
the thread.
3 With the tail, sew through the beadwork to get into position to add connecting 80s at this end of the bracelet.
Work as in Connecting 80s, and then
work as in step 2 of Finishing. w

ring it in

Stitch a shorter band of beadwork, and join the ends to make


a tall ring.


August 2015
6

KUMIHIMO

Blooming braid
necklace & bracelet

Adorn a kumihimo rope with button-style flowers that


twine their way along a path of crystals, pearls, and seed beads.
designed by Helen Lamb-Orendorf

2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in



August 2015
7
any form without permission from the publisher.

Setup

1 For the necklace, cut four 412-yd.


30

29

28

31 32

3
4

27

26

25

24

23

22

10

21

11
20

12

19

18

13

17 16 15 14
FIGURE 1

29

28

31 32

30

3
4

27

26

25

24

23

22

10

21

11
20
19

12
18

17 16 15 14

13

(4.1 m) lengths of S-Lon cord. For the


bracelet, cut four 112-yd. (1.4 m) lengths.
Holding all four cords together, fold
them in half, and tie an overhand knot
near the fold. Feed the knot through
the center hole of the kumihimo disk
from front to back, and attach a weight
or large binder clip near the knot.
2 Referring to figure 1, position a cord
in the slit just to the left of the top-center
or 12 oclock position of the disk
(between 31 and 32 on a numbered
disk). Position another cord in the slit
just to the right of the 12 oclock position (between 31 and 1). Position the
remaining cords as follows:
Just above the 3 oclock position
(between 7 and 8)
Just below the 3 oclock position
(between 8 and 9)
Just to the right of the 6 oclock position (between 15 and 16)
Just to the left of the 6 oclock position
(between 16 and 17)
Just below the 9 oclock position
(between 23 and 24)
Just above the 9 oclock position
(between 24 and 25)
For clarity, in figure 1 the cords are
color-coordinated in pairs, which will
help to show the movements described
below. If youd like, use a permanent
marker to color the very tip of each
cord to match the figure.

Braid

1 Hold your kumihimo disk so that the

FIGURE 2

26

25

24

23

22

27

21

28

20

29

19

30

18

31 32

17 16 15 14

1
2
3

13
4

12
5
7

10

11

FIGURE 3

number 32 is in the 12 oclock position.


If your disk isnt numbered, just make
sure that two cords (the purple cords,
if you colored them) are at 12 oclock.
2 Referring to figure 2, bring the bottomleft cord (16/17 slit) up to the left of the
two cords in the 12 oclock position
(30/31 slit). Bring the top-right cord
(32/1 slit) down to the right of the cord
in the 6 oclock position (14/15 slit). Turn
the disk a quarter turn clockwise so that
the cords in the 9 oclock position are
now in the 12 oclock position.
3 Referring to figure 3, bring the bottomleft cord (8/9 slit) up to the left of the
two cords in the 12 oclock position
(22/23 slit). Bring the top-right cord
(24/25 slit) down to the right of the

Difficulty rating

Materials
both projects

kumihimo disk with weight or binder clip


kumihimo bobbins
permanent markers (optional)
Big Eye needle
E6000 adhesive or 2-part epoxy
chainnose pliers
roundnose pliers
wire cutters

necklace 21 in. (53 cm)

4 x 7 mm long magatamas
- 120 color A (Miyuki 1, silver-lined crystal)
- 80 color B (Miyuki 1051,
galvanized silver)
80 7 mm Czech pressed glass button-style
flowers (Picasso amethyst)
80 4 mm pearls (Swarovski, white)
4 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski)
- 80 color C (light amethyst AB2X)
- 80 color D (crystal golden shadow)
4 g 80 seed beads (DynaMites, Ceylon grey
lilac)
1 toggle clasp
2 22 x 15 mm tulip end caps
12 in. (30 cm) 22-gauge wire
assorted jump rings and links (optional)
S-Lon bead cord, #18 (white)
bracelet 9 in. (23 cm)

4 x 7 mm long magatamas
- 42 color A
- 28 color B
28 7 mm Czech pressed glass button-style
flowers
28 4 mm pearls
4 mm bicone crystals
- 28 color C
- 28 color D
2 g 80 seed beads
1 toggle clasp
2 12 x 9 mm tulip end caps
12 in. (30 cm) 22-gauge wire
assorted jump rings and links (optional)
1 charm (optional)
S-Lon bead cord, #18 (white)
All supplies (except the end caps) available
at Discount Beads, (702) 360-4266 or
www.discountbeads@aol.com.


August 2015
8

6 Work as in steps 25 for four complete

19

18

17 16 15 14

13
12

20

11

21

10

22

23

24

25
6

26
5

27
28

4
29

30

31 32

10

13
21

22

23

24

25

26

27

20

28

19

29

18

30

31 32

17 16 15 14

12

11

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

cord in the 6 oclock position (6/7 slit).


Turn the disk a quarter turn clockwise
as before.
4 Referring to figure 4, bring the bottomleft cord (31/32 slit) up to the left of
the two cords in the 12 oclock position
(13/14 slit). Bring the top-right cord
(15/16 slit) down to the right of the
cord in the 6 oclock position (29/30 slit).
Turn the disk.
5 Referring to figure 5, bring the bottomleft cord (23/24 slit) up to the left of
the two cords in the 12 oclock position
(5/6 slit). Bring the top-right cord
(7/8 slit) down to the right of the cord
in the 6 oclock position (21/22 slit).
Turn the disk. This completes the first
full kumihimo rotation.

rotations, creating about 14 in. (6 mm)


of braid. Note: the slit numbers wont
match up to those in the first rotation,
but the cord movements will always
be the same. When you complete
the fourth rotation, your cords will
occupy the same slits as in figure 1,
although the cord colors will be in
different positions.
7 Thread a Big Eye needle on the topleft cord (31/32 slit), and string 80 80
seed beads for a necklace or 28 80s for
a bracelet. To keep the beads from sliding off, wrap the beaded cord around a
bobbin, and secure. Working clockwise
around the disk, repeat for the remaining cords as follows, always stringing
80 beads per cord for the necklace
or 28 beads per cord for the bracelet:
Top-right cord (32/1 slit): 7 mm button
flowers
Top 3 oclock cord (7/8 slit): color A
4 x 7 mm long magatamas (string
them so they all angle the same way)
Bottom 3 oclock cord (8/9 slit):
color B 4 x 7 mm long magatamas
(string them so they angle the same
way as the previous cord)
Bottom-right cord (15/16 slit): alternate color A magatamas and 80s
Bottom-left cord (16/17 slit): color C
4 mm bicone crystals
Bottom 9 oclock cord (23/24 slit):
4 mm pearls
Top 9 oclock cord (24/25 slit): color D
4 mm bicone crystals
8 Continue working as in steps 25, but
as you pick up each cord, slide a bead
down so it rests under the horizontal
cords in the center hole, and then position the working cord in the correct slit
on the opposite side of the disk. As you
work, try to keep the point of the braid
(where the cords are crossing) almost
level with the top surface of the disk,
and again make sure that each bead
sits under the horizontal cords. Nudge
the button flowers and long magatamas if necessary so that they point
toward the outside of the braid.
9 When you run out of beads, work
as in steps 25 without beads for four
complete rotations.

Online beading basics


www.BeadAndButton.com/basics

overhand knot
wrapped loop

Helen Lamb-Orendorf started


beading 11 years ago. Around
that time, a couple of her
friends were into cutting,
polishing, and wire wrapping
their own cabochons. Helen was soon
hooked. Now she works at Discount Beads
in Las Vegas, where she learned techniques
like bead weaving and kumihimo. She also
teaches beading classes at The Caring
Place, a program of the Nevada Childhood
Cancer Foundation. Contact Helen at
orendorf@att.net.

10 Remove the braid from the disk,


and stretch it to relax the tension. With
all eight cords, tie an overhand knot
as close to the braid as possible. Trim
the cord ends close to each knot.

Finishing

1 Cut a 6-in. (15 cm) piece of 22-gauge


wire. Form the wire into a U-shape, and
slide it through one of the knots. Wrap
one end of the wire tightly around the
braid once or twice, and trim.
2 Apply glue to the knot and the inside
of an end cap. String the end cap onto
the wire, covering the knot, and allow
the glue to dry completely.
3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 at the other
end of the braid.
4 With the wire on each end of the
braid, make the first half of a wrapped
loop. Attach half of the clasp, and complete the wraps. To add length to the
piece, use assorted jump rings and links
to attach each half of the clasp to the
wrapped loops. You may also choose
to attach a charm to half of the clasp,
as in the bracelet. w


August 2015
9

BEAD WEAVING

Art Deco encore


bracelet

Bring back the architectural style of


Art Deco jewelry with two-hole triangles,
SuperDuos, and O-beads.
designed by Stephanie Marie Goff

To pick up triangle beads: Place them


on your work surface so that the point
without a hole faces away from you. Pick
up the bead through the left hole (LH)
or right hole (RH), per the instructions.
Work with tight tension throughout
the bracelet to give the components
a slightly domed shape.

First component

1 On 112 yd. (1.4 m) of thread, pick up


three O-beads, a SuperDuo, a 150 seed
bead, a 3 mm bicone crystal, a 150,
a SuperDuo, a 150, a bicone, a 150,
and a SuperDuo. Pick up this pattern
of beads once more. Sew through all
the beads again to form a ring, leaving
a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Tie a square knot,

2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in



August 2015
10
any form without permission from the publisher.

knot
1 x 3.8 mm O-bead
2.5 x 5 mm
SuperDuo bead
150 seed bead

Difficulty rating

3 mm bicone crystal
6 mm two-hole
triangle bead

Materials
teal/gray bracelet 71 2 in. (19.1 cm)

17 6 mm CzechMates two-hole triangle


beads (pearl coat teal)
87 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads
(pastel coco)
56 3 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, light
turquoise AB2X)
45 1 x 3.8 mm O-beads (jet hematite)
1 g 150 seed beads (Toho 711, nickelplated silver)
Fireline, 6 lb. test
beading needles, #11

FIGURE 1

b
c

FIGURE 2

and sew through the first three O-beads


and the next SuperDuo, and continue
through the open hole of the same
SuperDuo (figure 1).
2 Pick up a 150, a two-hole triangle (LH),
and a 150. Sew through the open hole
of the next SuperDuo (figure 2, ab).
3 Pick up a 150, and sew through the
open hole of the next SuperDuo. Repeat
this stitch once (bc).
4 Pick up a 150, and sew through the
open hole of the triangle (cd).
5 Pick up a 150, and sew through the
open hole of the next SuperDuo. Repeat
this stitch twice (de).
Note: Although the triangle in figure 2
appears to be pointing to the right, it is
actually pointing straight up.
6 Sew through the beadwork to exit the
SuperDuo shown (figure 3, ab), and
continue through the outer hole of the
same SuperDuo and the next three
O-beads (bc).

Second component
The second component is worked as for
the first, but in the opposite direction.

purple bracelet colors

6 mm CzechMates two-hole triangle beads


(matte metallic copper)
2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (Vega on
chalk)
3 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, crystal
lilac shadow)
1 x 3.8 mm O-beads (crystal slipperit)
150 seed beads (Toho 461, higher
metallic grape)
gray/burgundy/teal bracelet colors

FIGURE 3

1 Pick up a SuperDuo, a 150, a bicone,


a 150, a SuperDuo, a 150, a bicone,
a 150, and a SuperDuo. Pick up three
O-beads and the same pattern of
beads just added, and then sew
through the three O-beads your thread
exited at the start of this step to form
a new ring. Sew through all the beads
again, exiting the same three O-beads.
Sew through the next SuperDuo, and
continue through the open hole of the
same SuperDuo (figure 3, cd).
2 Pick up a 150, a triangle (RH), and
a 150. Sew through the open hole of
the next SuperDuo in the ring (figure 4,
ab).

6 mm CzechMates two-hole triangle beads


(polychrome aqua teal)
2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (pastel coco)
3 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, vitrail
medium)
1 x 3.8 mm O-beads (jet lila)
150 seed beads (Toho 222, metallic dark
copper)
All supplies available from Beadjoux Bead
Store, (706) 658-0007.

Online beading basics


www.BeadAndButton.com/basics

square knot
ending and adding thread


August 2015 11

e
b

f
FIGURE 4

3 Pick up a 150, and sew through the


open hole of the next SuperDuo. Repeat
this stitch once (bc).
4 Pick up a 150, and sew through the
open hole of the triangle (cd).
5 Pick up a 150, and sew through the
open hole of the next SuperDuo. Repeat
this stitch twice (de).
6 Sew through the beadwork to exit
the the next three O-beads (ef).
Note: Although the triangle in figure 4
appears to be pointing to the left, it is
actually pointing straight up.

Third component
The third component is worked as
for the second, but in the opposite
direction (the same direction as the
first component). Work as in Second
component, but pick up the triangle
through the left hole instead of the
right hole.

Keep going!
Alternate working the steps for Second
component and Third component
until you have 14 components or the
desired length. Each component adds
12 in. (1.3 cm) to the band. End and
add thread as needed. When you
complete the band, do not end the
working thread or tail.

Toggle button closure

1 On 30 in. (76 cm) of thread, pick up


three triangles (LH). Sew through all
the triangles (LH) again to form a ring,
leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, and tie a
square knot (photo a). Note: For clarity,
the tail is not shown in the photos, only
the working thread.

2 Sew through the next triangle, and


continue through the open hole of the
same triangle. Sew through the open
hole of the next two triangles, and continue through the same hole of the first
triangle. Pull the thread tight so that the
bases of the triangles are centered in
the ring (photo b).
3 Pick up a SuperDuo, and sew through
the same hole of the next triangle.
Repeat this stitch twice, and exit a triangle (photo c). Sew through the other
hole of the same triangle.
4 Continue through the open hole of
the next SuperDuo, and sew through
the corresponding hole of the following
triangle. Repeat this stitch twice, and
exit a SuperDuo.
5 Pick up three 150s, and sew through
the other hole of the same SuperDuo.
Pick up three 150s, sew through the first
hole of the SuperDuo, and continue
through the corresponding hole of the
next triangle and SuperDuo (photo d).
Repeat these stitches to embellish the
remaining two SuperDuos, and exit
a triangle.
6 Pick up a 150, skip the next SuperDuo,
and sew through the following triangle.
Repeat this stitch twice to form a tight
trio of 150s at the top of the button
(photo e).
7 Sew through the beadwork to exit a
triangle on the bottom of the button,
and work as in step 6. End the working
thread and tail.
8 With the working thread from the
band exiting the last three O-beads,

pick up four 150s. Sew through the


center of the toggle button, pick up
a 150, sew back through the button,
and continue back through the last
150 just added.

note

If the opening at the top and/or


bottom of the button is large enough
to allow a 150 to slip through, substitute a coordinating 110 for the 150
on that side of the button.
Pick up three 150s, and sew through
the end three O-beads in the band
(photo f). Retrace the thread path of
the button connection, and end the
working thread.
9 With the tail from the band exiting
the first three O-beads, pick up enough
150s (about 27) to form a loop around
the button. Sew through the three
O-beads again. Test the loop around
the button, and add or omit 150s as
needed. Retrace the thread path of
the loop, and end the tail. w

Stephanie Marie Goff started


beading as a college student
after discovering that the art
of beadwork is a great stress
reliever. After graduating with
her masters in public health/epidemiology, she
joined her mom, Monica Goff, in opening and
operating Beadjoux Bead Store in Braselton,
Georgia. Contact Stephanie via the store at
beadjoux@att.net, or visit www.beadjoux.com.


August 2015 12

STRINGING / WIREWORK

Dots,
drops,
& gems
necklace

Combine jewel tones with playful


shapes in a necklace finished
with trendy leather straps.
designed by Marcy Kentz

2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in



August 2015
13
any form without permission from the publisher.

Difficulty rating

Materials
necklace 18 in. (46 cm)

Wrapped teardrop links

1 Cut a 4-in. (10 cm) piece of 26-gauge


wire, and center the 10 mm briolette
on the wire. Place the briolette inside
a 20 x 11 mm teardrop link. With each
end of the wire, wrap around the teardrop link toward the tip, pulling the wire
tight with chainnose pliers after each
wrap (photo a). When you reach
the tip of the link, trim the excess wire,
and tuck in the ends with chainnose
pliers. Repeat with the four remaining
8 mm briolettes.

Beaded strands

1 Cut two 8-in. (20 cm) pieces of


leather cord.

2 On one end of one piece of leather,


use an awl (or a tack and a hammer)
to punch two holes about 12 in. (1.3 cm)
from the end. Make sure the holes are
centered, spaced 5 mm apart, and in a
straight line across the width (photo b).
Avoid making the holes too big; they
should be just large enough to string a
piece of beading wire through. Repeat
at one end of the other piece of leather.
3 Cut two 8-in. (20 cm) pieces of beading wire.
4 On one end of a wire, string a crimp
bead. Pass the wire through the crimp
bead again in the same direction, forming a small loop around one side of the

crimp bead. Use chainnose pliers to flatten the crimp bead (photo c). Repeat to
crimp the other wire.
5 Lay one piece of leather horizontally
on your work surface. In this position,
one hole is at the top of the leather
(this will be for the top strand), and
the other hole is at the bottom (for
the bottom strand). String one wire
through each hole, back to front, so
that the crimp beads are at the back
of the leather (photo d).
6 String the top strand as follows
(photo e):
Beginning pattern: three 2.5 x 4 mm
rondelles.
Dangle pattern: 4 x 2 mm round
dangle, rondelle. Repeat four times.
Briolette pattern: 5 x 3 mm round
dangle, rondelle, 6 mm briolette,
rondelle. Repeat twice, and then
string a 5 x 3 mm round dangle and
a rondelle.
String the dangle pattern from before,
and end with three rondelles. You will
have two rondelles left over; set them
aside for Finishing.

links (all sterling silver)


- 5 20 x 11 mm teardrops
- 2 12 mm circles
dangles (all sterling silver)
- 10 7 x 4 mm flat circles
- 4 5 x 3 mm rounds
- 10 4 x 2 mm rounds
gemstone briolettes
- 1 10 mm (African violet amethyst)
- 2 8 mm (idocrase)
- 2 8 mm (garnet)
- 3 6 mm (garnet)
16 4 mm faceted round beads (garnet)
24 2.5 x 4 mm faceted rondelles
(idocrase)
1 11 mm lobster claw clasp
24 in. (61 cm) 26-gauge wire
3 in. (7.6 cm) chain, 8 mm links
30 4 mm jump rings
4 2 x 2 mm crimp beads
flexible beading wire, .014
16 in. (41 cm) 1 cm medium deer hide
leather cord (wine)
awl, or tack and hammer
Crafters Pick: The Ultimate! glue
2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or
bentnose pliers
roundnose pliers
wire cutters
All materials available at www.ninadesigns.com.

Online beading basics


www.BeadAndButton.com/basics

crimping
opening and closing jump rings
wrapped loops


August 2015 14

7 String the top strand through the


corresponding hole in the other piece
of leather, front to back. String a crimp
bead, and hold it close to the leather
so that the first and last beads of
the strand are snug but not too tight
(photo f). Pass the wire through the
crimp bead again, forming a small
loop, and use chainnose pliers to
flatten the crimp bead.
8 Tightly close all the 4 mm jump rings
so that their ends are flush. String the
bottom strand as follows (photo g):
Beginning pattern: 4 mm round bead,
4 mm jump ring, 7 x 4 mm flat circle
dangle, jump ring. Repeat twice more,
and then string a round bead.
Teardrop pattern: jump ring, wrapped
teardrop link with 8 mm briolette,
jump ring.
Round bead pattern: round bead,
jump ring, flat circle dangle, jump ring,
round bead.
Alternate stringing the teardrop pattern and the round bead pattern until
youve strung all five wrapped teardrop

links. The teardrop link with the 10 mm


briolette should be at the center.
String the beginning pattern once
more.
9 End the bottom strand as in step 7.
10 Trim the wire exiting each crimp
bead to 14 in. (6 mm). Fold each piece
of leather where the strands exit, and
glue the 12-in. (1.3 cm) end to the back,
covering the crimp beads (photo h).

Finishing

1 Pass each remaining end of leather

Marcy Kentz has been making


jewelry since she was 8 years
old. She gets her inspiration from
anywhere and everywhere, but
especially from her other hobbies
painting, collaging, and bookmaking. She lives
in Berkeley, California, where she lives with her
guitar-strumming husband, Dave, and a large
black cat named Ninja. Contact Marcy at
marcy@ninadesigns.com, and look for more
of her work at www.ninadesigns.com and
www.marcykentz.etsy.com.

through a 12 mm circle link, and glue


the end to the back as before.
2 Cut a 2-in. (5 cm) piece of 26-gauge
wire. Make the first half of a wrapped
loop, and attach a 12 mm circle link
from one end of the necklace before
completing the wraps. String a rondelle,
and make the first half of a wrapped
loop. Attach a lobster claw clasp, and
complete the wraps (photo i).
3 Work as in step 2 to attach a 3-in.
(7.6 cm) piece of chain to the other
circle link (photo j). w


August 2015 15

CUBIC RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE

Raindrops on the
Aegean
bracelet

Create a sea of seed beads and drops washing


over a sandy base with cubic right-angle weave.
designed by Corina Panaite

2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in



August 2015
16
any form without permission from the publisher.

Difficulty rating

110 seed bead, color A


knot

110 seed bead, color B


110 seed bead, color C

FIGURE 1

Materials
bracelet 71 4 in. (18.4 cm)

3.4 mm drop bead, top view

b
a

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

The next unit


will be worked
off of this side

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

This bracelet is worked in cubic rightangle weave (CRAW), a 3-D version of


regular right-angle weave. Instead of
square-shaped stitches, your beadwork
will consist of cube-shaped units. Each
unit is made up of six surfaces four
sides, a top, and a bottom. Each surface
consists of four beads, but since the
beads are shared, 12 beads are used
to make the first CRAW unit, and only
eight beads are used for each subsequent unit in the row. After the first row,
even fewer beads will be needed to
construct additional rows.

follows: Pick up an A, sew up through


the end bead in the first stitch (figure 3,
ab), pick up a B, and sew down
through the end bead in the last
stitch (bc). Figure 4 shows a threedimensional view of the resulting cubeshaped unit. Note that the Bs form the
top surface of the unit.
4 To make the unit more stable, sew
through the beadwork to the top of the
unit, and sew through the four Bs that
form the top surface (figure 4). Sew
through the beadwork to the bottom
of the unit, and sew through the four As
that form the bottom surface.

First CRAW unit

1 On a comfortable length of conditioned thread, pick up a color A 110


seed bead, a color B 110 seed bead,
and two As. Tie the beads into a ring
with a square knot, leaving a 6-in.
(15 cm) tail. Sew through the next A, B,
and A. This ring of beads will count as
the first stitch of the unit (figure 1).
2 Work two identical right-angle weave
stitches off of the bead your thread is
exiting, making sure there is a B at the
top of each new stitch (figure 2).
3 Join the first and last stitches as

Subsequent CRAW units

1 Each new CRAW unit in row 1 will be


worked off of the side of the previous
unit (see figure 4). For clarity, only the
beads on this side are shown in figures
58. Sew through the beadwork to exit
an A on one side of the unit with your
needle pointing toward the top surface.
2 Pick up a B and two As, and sew
through the A your thread exited at
the start of this step (figure 5, ab).
Continue through the next B on the
top surface of the previous unit (bc).

8 4 mm bicone crystals (Preciosa,


Capri blue)
16 3 mm bicone crystals (Preciosa,
Capri blue)
5 g 3.4 mm drop beads (Miyuki DPF-31,
mint green-lined sapphire)
110 seed beads
- 11 g color A (Toho 622, transparent light
topaz)
- 7 g color B (Toho 263, rainbow crystal/
light Capri lined)
- 4 g color C (Toho 932, aqua/Capri lined)
- 16 color D (Toho PF557, galvanized
starlight)
1 4-strand tube clasp (gold)
8 11 2-in. (3.8 cm) eye pins (gold)
Nymo D beading thread, conditioned
beading needles, #12
2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or
bentnose pliers
roundnose pliers
wire cutters

Online beading basics


www.BeadAndButton.com/basics

right-angle weave
conditioning thread
ending and adding thread
square knot
plain loop
opening and closing loops

Corina Panaite lives in


Bucharest, Romania. Hand
stitching including flat and
dimensional embroidery
was her hobby for more than 10 years. Then,
three years ago, she got hooked on bead
stitching while embellishing an embroidery
project with beads. She is inspired by the
shapes and colors found in nature, as is
evident from this bracelet. Contact Corina
at corina.panaite@yahoo.com.


August 2015 17

a
b
a

b
c

FIGURE 6

FIGURE 7

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 9

3 Pick up two Bs, and sew through the


B added in the previous step and the
B your thread exited at the start of this
step (figure 6, ab). Continue through
the A on the next side of the previous
unit (bc).
4 Pick up two As, and sew through the
nearest B added in the previous step
and the A your thread exited at the start
of this step (figure 7, ab). Continue
through the next A at the bottom of the
previous unit and the nearest A of the
new unit (bc).
5 Pick up an A, sew through the A
opposite the one your thread is exiting,
and continue through the A at the
bottom of the previous unit (figure 8).
6 To stabilize, sew through the beadwork
to exit the side of the new unit, and sew
through the four beads that form this

surface (figure 9). Exit an A with your


needle pointing toward the top surface.
7 Work as in steps 26 until you have
a row of eight units. End the tail but
not the working thread.

Adding rows

1 Sew through the beadwork to exit


a side A of the last unit with your needle
pointing toward the top surface. Work
as in steps 26 of Subsequent CRAW
units to add a new unit perpendicular
to the first row. This is the first unit of the
second row.
2 Continue working in cubic rightangle weave to the end of the row,
taking note of the following:
Many of the beads for each unit
are already in place and must simply
be sewn through.

Make sure that each surface of each


unit consists of four beads and that the
Bs are on the top surface.
Remember to stabilize the side of
each new unit.
You dont have to begin every unit by
exiting an A with your needle pointing
toward the top surface. Begin each unit
with whatever side is most convenient
to avoid unnecessary thread paths and
stiff beadwork.
Check your thread tension by flexing
the beadwork often the band should
be supple enough to drape around
your wrist.
End and add thread as needed.
3 Work a total of 44 rows or the desired
length. Note: the clasp takes up about
112 in. (3.8 cm).


August 2015 18

FIGURE 10

Attach
connectors
here

Attach
connectors
here

g
a

FIGURE 11

Embellishments

1 Sew through the beadwork to exit an


A with your needle pointing toward the
top surface. Pick up a color C 110 seed
bead, and sew through the next A
along the edge of the band in the
same direction (figure 10, ab). Repeat
(bc) along all four edges of the band.
2 Sew through the beadwork to exit
an A with your needle pointing toward
the top surface. For clarity, the beads
added in the previous step are not
shown in figure 11. Working across the
length of the band, not the width, work
the following stitches along the edge:
Pick up a C, and sew through the
next B. Repeat this stitch once (figure
11, ab).
Work a stitch with a 3.4 mm drop
bead (bc).
Work three stitches with Cs (cd).
Alternate working a stitch with a
drop and three stitches with Cs for

the length of the edge, ending with two


stitches with Cs (ef). Exit the next side A
(point g).
3 Embellish the next row in the same
manner, following this pattern:
Four stitches with Cs.
One stitch with a drop.
Three stitches with Cs.
Alternate working one stitch with
a drop and three stitches with Cs,
ending with four stitches with Cs.
4 Embellish the next row following
this pattern:
One stitch with a drop.
One stitch with a C.
One stitch with a drop.
Three stitches with Cs.
Alternate working one stitch with a drop
and three stitches with Cs, ending with
one stitch with a drop, one stitch with
a C, and one stitch with a drop.
5 For the next row, work as in step 3.
6 For the next row, work as in step 2.

7 For the next row, work as in step 3.


8 For the next row, work as in step 4.
9 For the next row, work as in step 3.
10 For the last row, work as in step 2.
End the working thread.

Clasp

1 On an eye pin, string a 3 mm bicone


crystal, a color D 110 seed bead, a
4 mm bicone crystal, a D, and a 3 mm.
Make a plain loop. Repeat to make a
total of eight connectors. To adjust the
length of your bracelet, add or omit
beads for each connector.
2 Open the loop at one end of each
connector, slide it through one of the
As indicated in figure 11, and close
the loop. Repeat to attach the remaining connectors.
3 On one end of the bracelet, open the
four connectors, and attach the loops
of the clasp. Close the loops. Repeat
on the other end of the bracelet. w


August 2015 19

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