CHAPTER-III

Growth of Handloom Industry

To represent the growth of Handloom Industry, the data of Handloom
Census of India have been widely used because the national handloom census
is such a source which comprises almost every indicator of growth and
provides comprehensive statistical information about handloom sector at the
national and state level.

The three rounds of handloom census ( 1987-1988, 1995-96 and 200910) provides the broad details of

three different decades, in which the

researcher found easy to compare the growth among decades to analyze the
scenario of pre and post reform. The duration of research topic started since
1981 but a proper handloom census initiated from 1987, therefore the analysis
followed from that year.

Handloom forms the second largest economic activity in India after

Agriculture. In regard to production, the industry is meeting one-third of the
total cloth requirements of the masses in the country and their products are
well known all over the world since long.

The Indian weavers are not only providing the enough cloth to meet
the internal demand but also exporting numerous artistic varieties to the highly
industrialized countries of the world.

The below Table 3.1 shows the committees, estimated the number of
handlooms in different years, and their estimation shows a positive and
enormous growth of the industry since 1921 to 1983.

Table: 3.1

Estimated Handlooms in India by Different Studies

Year

1921

1932

1941

1954

1974

1983

Study

Census

Tariff

Fact

Tax

Sivaraman

Dev.Commissioner

Report

Board

Finding

Enquiry

Committee

for Handlooms

Report

Committee

Committee

Report

Report

Report

17,90,957

28,70,000

Estimated

12,60,409

15,15,450

35,73,364

38,20,000

Handlooms

Sources:-Compiled from:

Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms ( Basic Statistics on

Handlooms Ministry of Industry, Government of India, New Delhi 1953, pp.1

High Powered study team on the problems of the handloom industry 1974, Ministry
of industry, Government of India, New Delhi 1975, pp.22.

Angadi, V.B., Economics of Handloom and power loom industries in Karnataka

state with special reference to Bijapur District Karnataka Uni. Darwar, 1976 pp.2

The growth of any industry encompasses many aspects like the

structure of industry, size of the industry, input, productivity and output. Thus,
this chapter tries to present all these variables to analyze the growth of the
handloom industry.

3.1 Organizational Structure of Handloom Weaving:

Despite large-scale expansion of modern textile industry in India,
Handloom continues to occupy an important place in country's total economic
support. It is a household industry, all family members work as one unit; the
head of the household perform the manufacturing work, as where other
member of the family do the supporting or ancillary role, work and burden is
divided on the basis of age and sex.
In general the socio- economic condition forms the weavers to depend
upon external agencies for infrastructural facilities. Some of them work
independently some of them with organization and some seek outside support.
The organizational structure of the industry could be divided into four
segments. They are:
i.

Independent weavers

ii. Master weavers

iii. Co-operative society
40

iv. Corporate sector

i. Independent or Individual Weavers:

Out of the total weaving population most of them are either
independent weavers or weavers who are working under master weavers
segment. Theoretically, an independent weaver perform all the function
relating to the cloth weaving alone that is, from purchasing of raw yarn and
dyes, arrangement of finance, weaving of cloth, to the marketing and finished
goods. In 2009-10, in the country independent workers account for 61.1 per
cent of the total work force and system whereby they procure the raw material
themselves and undertake the marketing of finished products. All the risks
associated with the business are borne by them. In most cases independent
workers have small operations the profit from which is also very small.
Independent workers are mostly found in the North Eastern state where a large
part of production is for domestic purpose; outside the North East the
proportion of independent workers is as small as 24.2 per cent of the total
handloom workforce.

ii. Master weaver:

A master weaver also refers as generic term to people who get the yarn
sized supply beams to smaller owner get the fabric woven and get the cloth
processed. This system of master weaver has evolved over years. In past
master weaver used to advance yarn to weavers working in their own houses,
in recent years many master weavers have set up common sheds for weaving
where hired weavers come and undertake production activities.

iii. Co-operative sector:

The cooperative structure in handloom sector is in two part, apex
society and primary society. The apex society is an umbrella body for primary
societies hence weavers are basically member of primary society.
The principal of cooperative as an instrument of economic and social reform
was propounded in some of the European countries over a century ago. The
first handloom weavers co-operative society in India was formed in 1905
after the passing of cooperative society act 1904.
41

Since then a number of weavers co-operative societies have been

grown in India, the co-operative movement in handloom industry was not
important prior to independence. The then British government discouraged the
growth and development of handloom industry by importing the cheap
machine made cloth from British to India.
It is after independence a new era of growth flourished in handloom
sector, the government of India recognized the importance of cottage
industries especially the handloom industry in the Indian economy. Mass
participation, social control, harnessing of local initiation and resources etc.
make cooperative ideal instruments to help achieve the overall policy
objective.

iv. Corporate sector:

Till the end of fourth five year plan, weavers were getting assistance
from cooperative sector only, weavers outside the cooperative fold were not
getting any direct benefit from implementation of different institutional
programs then it is felt that weavers outside co-operative fold should also
achieve appropriate assistance, that is why the Sivaraman Study Team
recommended the establishment of Handloom Development Corporations in
different states. The main aim and objective of corporations to promote, own,
establish and assist the rehabilitation. It is also undertaking other activities for
the benefit of weavers which include modernization of looms, planning of
production, payment of remunerative wages and technical training for
weavers.
Table: 3.2 Distributions of Workers under Structural Organization of
Handloom Sector in India
Year

Independent

Under master

Under cooperative

Under State Handloom

weavers

society

Development Corporation

1987-88

1211425

344646

454989

47029

1995-96

988626

287654

241862

28915

2009-10

2351622

1038606

151267

18662

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms, 1995-96,GOI, NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.

42

It is clear from the Table 3.2, that the major part of workforce are
weaving independently and after that, mostly prefer weaving under master
weavers, the role of cooperative and State Handloom Development
Corporation (NHDC) in giving employment to the weavers are not significant
and it is also highlighted from the figures that government organization are not
obtaining their aim and objectives and obviously weavers are not satisfied
with these institutions.
Table: 3.3 Distributions of Workers under Structural Organization
of Handloom Sector in Uttar Pradesh
Year

Independent

Under master

Under cooperative

Under State Handloom

weaver

Societies

Development Corporation

1987-88

235033

16574

5575

6034

1995-96

154421

14572

6973

1452

2009-10

55331

159181

839

950

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.

If we discuss about the Uttar Pradesh, in Table 3.3 shows that in 198788 and 1995-96 majority of weavers were self employed but currently in 200910 the condition has changed because mostly weavers are engaged with master
weavers.

3.2 Growth of Handloom Weaver Household Units:

Handloom industry is decentralized, located both in rural and urban
areas in the country .Handloom weaving as an economic activity and consider
as a village and cottage industries. Handloom weaving today continues to be
dispersed and decentralized in nature. It is largely home-based, with labour
inputs from the entire family.
In the country around 53 per cent of the HH (weaver + allied worker
household) are into commercial production, and nearly 16 per cent households
undertake a mix of domestic and commercial production. Thus, a total of 69
per cent of the handloom households undertake commercial production. Table
3.4 presents the growth of weaver households units in India.
43

Table: 3.4 State-wise Distribution of Handloom Weaver Household Units

in India
State-wise Distribution of Handloom weaver household units
States

1987-88
No. of Units

1995-96
No. of Units

2009-10

Growth (%age)

No. of Units

Growth (%age)

Andhra Pradesh

171660

143358

-16.49%

138260

-7.32%

Arunachal Pradesh

33875

23129

-31.72%

23144

0.06%

Assam

1223956

1095106

-10.53%

1096279

0.11%

Bihar

67187

52410

-21.99%

10172

-80.59%

2219

Gujarat

21353

16340

-23.48%

3076

-81.18%

Haryana

16961

4015

-76.33%

5420

34.99%

Himachal Pradesh

29069

39961

37.47%

6020

-84.94%

Jammu & Kashmir

17556

15825

-9.86%

6703

-57.64%

Jharkhand

8636

Karnataka

58218

50237

-13.71%

29429

-41.42%

Kerala

33571

24575

-26.80%

9562

-61.09%

Madhya Pradesh

35713

17501

-51.00%

5715

-67.34%

Maharashtra

51777

31020

-40.09%

1541

-95.03%

Manipur

192138

215801

12.32%

175977

-18.45%

Meghalaya

6399

10800

Mizoram

79782

38931

Nagaland

51029

41206

-19.25%

42579

3.33%

Orissa

86487

71885

-16.88%

33440

-53.48%

Punjab

7898

4533

-42.61%

821

-81.89%

Rajasthan

29848

27822

-6.79%

5818

-79.09%

534

Tamil Nadu

261309

197956

-24.24%

163290

-17.51%

Tripura

99857

85884

-13.99%

118708

38.22%

Uttar Pradesh

189517

140994

-25.60%

84455

-40.10%

5333

284207

219302

-22.84%

243811

11.18%

Goa

44

-79.55%

Delhi

7385

2940

-60.19%

1293

-56.02%

Pondicherry

3294

2703

-17.94%

1442

-46.65%

3060090

2524512

-17.50%

2268008

-10.16%

Chattisgarh

Sikkim

Uttrakhand
West Bengal

Total (All India)

Source- Compiled from

: Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile ,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.

44

The definition of handloom household (HH) is described in

introductory chapter. In India handloom sector is largely a household based
and carried out with labor contributed by whole family. These household
spread in rural areas as well as in urban areas of almost every state of the
country. Table 3.4 presents the growth of weaver households units in India.
In each stage of the production process, whether it is pre-loom processing,
weaving or finishing, every member of the household has a clear role to play.
In India handloom sector is largely a household based and carried out with
labor contributed by whole family, these household spread almost every state
of the country.
Currently, as per third census, in the country nearly 27.83 lacs handloom
households are involved in weaving and allied activities, out of which 87 per
cent are located in rural areas and rest 13 per cent in urban areas. Most of the
HH 22.68 lacs (82%) are weaver households, which means that at least one
member of every such household is engaged in weaving activities. Around 14
per cent allied worker households, 3 per cent are idle loom households and
about 1 per cent is other handloom households having no adult handloom
workers.
In the North-East, 90 per cent of the handloom worker households are
weaver households. The allied worker households are mostly found in the
states outside the region, and form 29 per cent of the total handloom worker
households in these states.
Figure: 3.1 Number of Handloom Weaver Household in India

The handloom census reveals the growth of weaver households in a

very extensive manner. As handloom census of India 1987-88, explained that
45

there were 30.6 lacs weaver household in the country out of which 26.3 lacs
were located in rural areas and remaining households were found in urban
areas.
As the table 3.4 exhibits that in 1987-88, the state of Assam had
highest concentration of households in the country, around 40 percent of the
total households in this sector belong to Assam, next in order comes West
Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Manipur and Uttar Pradesh respectively in terms of
having higher number of household units.
As per Joint Census of Handloom & Power loom 1995-96, there were
25.24 lacs weaver household units were involved in weaving activity in the
country, of which 21.91 lacs Household were from rural areas and rest were
from urban areas. The state of Assam again occupied first rank in terms of
having highest numbers of weaver household units. In 1995-96 the negative
growth had noticed, and can be seen from the Table 3.4, that 17.50 percent
decreases in Household units was found from 1987-88, only two states namely
Himachal Pradesh and Manipur reported positive growth out of twenty five
state.
The handloom census of 2009-10 reveals that in the country total
number of handloom household (weaver household, allied worker household,
idle loom households and household with no adult worker) is found 27.83 lacs.
Among total handloom household there are 22.68 lacs weaver households are
engaged in weaving job. Census also clears that of which, 19.85 lacs (87.53%)
are located in rural areas and 2.82 lacs (12.47%) in urban areas. This figure
indicates that handloom industry is solely a village industry and provides job
to mainly rural poor. This data proves that handloom sector is still a livelihood
source of millions of rural people of the country.
As far as the growth is concerned in 2009-10, the negative growth has
been captured, as shown in the table 3.4. and the figure 3.1 also shows that
since 1987 to 1995 the weaver household had reduced by 5.36 lacs. While
from second census to third census these units have decreased by 2.56 lacs.

If we discuss about type of HH by ownership of looms, there are two types:i.

With loom households- Households that have looms in their premises.

46

ii. Without loom household- Households that do not have any loom within
their premises.
In the year of 1987-88, nearly 90% household had looms which may or
may are not be owned by them but in case of non ownership of looms these
were placed in their houses by master weaver, cooperative society or private
owners.
In 1995-96 the household with looms increased by 5% and in 2009-10
there were 66.5% total worker households have looms and nearly 33 percent
had not looms. The household without looms are either engaged in hired
weaving activities or these household undertake allied work and it is also
noticed that higher proportion of without loom household lived in urban areas.
In India average Handloom Household size is 4.59, the average number of
workers per HH is 1.56, and the work participation rate being 33.9 per cent.

Growth of Handloom Weaver Households in Uttar Pradesh:

In the state of Uttar Pradesh, Households is found in almost every

district, and scattered in rural as well as in urban areas of this state. As per the
handloom census 1987-88, in Uttar Pradesh there were 1.89 lacs handloom
weaver household units of which, 0.62 lac (32.93%) found in urban areas
while 1.27 lac (67.06%) noticed in rural areas.
The joint census of handloom & power loom in 1995-96 confirmed
that since 1987 to 1995 in Uttar Pradesh 25.60 percent negative growth was
noticed in terms of number of units. The total number of weaver household
were 1.4 lac, of which 1.02 lac (72.78%) household were concentrated in rural
areas and rest 0.38 lac (27.22%) were found in urban areas.
In 1995-96, in the state of Uttar Pradesh, the highest concentration of
these household was found in Varanasi district (36234) followed by Bijnore
(10395) and Barabanki (8236). The Table 3.5 exhibits about the state of Uttar
Pradesh, that in 2009-10, the reduction is found in number of weavers
households, there were 0.84 lac weaver households, of which 0.49 lac
(58.47%) were belong to rural areas and rest 0.35 lac(41.52%) were found in
urban areas.
47

Table: 3.5 District-wise Distribution of Handloom Weaver Household

Units in Uttar Pradesh
District wise distribution of handloom weaver household Units in Uttar Pradesh
1995-96

2009-10

Growth (% age)

AGRA

1201

104

-91.34%

ALIGARH

3147

64

-97.97%

ALLAHABAD

366

AMBEDKAR NAGAR

413

549

32.93%

AZAMGARH

6974

9878

41.64%

BAGHPAT

2593

BAHRAICH

28

BALIA

647

BANDA

118

BARABANKI

8236

4927

-40.18%

BAREILY

1086

610

-48.83%

BASTI

5001

BHADOHI

180

BIJNORE

10395

757

-92.72%

BADUAN

385

BULANDSHAHAR

2636

504

-80.88%

CHANDAULI

4151

DEWARIA

218

ETAH

1780

ETAWAH

1069

739

-30.87%

FAIZABAD

18

FARUKKHABAD

352

47

-86.65%

FATEHPUR

361

-98.34%

FIROZABAD

152

32

-78.95%

GHAZIPUR

3152

88

-97.21%

GAUTAM BUDH NAGAR

21

GHAZIABAD

1399

202

-85.56%

GORAKHPUR

2975

861

-71.06%

GONDA

51

HAMIRPUR

553

24

-95.66%

HARDOI

2047

317

-84.51%

HATHRAS

516

JALAUN

607

285

-53.05%

JAUNPUR

707

17

-97.60%

JHANSI

1005

1,708

69.95%

KANPUR DEHAT

313

69

-77.96%

KANPUR NAGAR

719

2123

195.27%

KHERI

212

20

-90.57%

48

LALITPUR

226

118

-47.79%

LUCKNOW

163

MAHRAJGANJ

100

41

-59.00%

MAHOBA

547

MAINPURI

96

39

-59.38%

MATHURA

1383

-99.64%

MAU

3500

845

-75.86%

MEERUT

3221

1,058

-67.15%

MIRZAPUR

5906

2,263

-61.68%

MORADABAD

8737

12599

44.20%

MUZAFFAR NAGAR

2946

391

-86.73%

PADRAUNA

90

PILIBHIT

430

1,144

166.05%

PRATAPGARH

742

-99.33%

RAE BARELY

228

55

-75.88%

RAMPUR

2972

226

-92.40%

SAHARANPUR

1251

SANT KABIR NAGAR

427

SANT RAVIDAS NAGAR

22

SHAHJAHAN PUR

81

SIDDHART NAGAR

1023

-99.90%

SITAPUR

5498

3,148

-42.74%

SONBHADRA

176

SULTANPUR

1005

UNNAO

1144

607

-46.94%

VARANASI

36234

30249

-16.52%

TOTAL

136202*

84455

-38%

Source: - Compiled from:

Report of planning commission, vol.2, Uttar Pradesh 1995-96.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10, Ministry of Textile, GOI,NCAER.

*the total value of the weaver household 1995-96,(data derived from planning
commission) is bit differ from the handloom census report 1995-96 .The entire
analysis in this study is mainly based on national handloom census reports, as
mentioned earlier.

From 1995-96 to 2009-10, the decline was found -40.10 percent

during 1995-96 to 2009-10, the figure 3.2 presenting the declining picture of
handloom weaver household in Uttar Pradesh, while the district wise table
reveals that in 2009-10 in U.P., few districts like Moradabad, Pilibhit,
Maharajganj, Kanpur Nagar, Jhansi, Etawah, Azamgarh and Ambedkar Nagar

49

reported positive growth. In other words, among 36 districts only 8 districts

have shown the positive growth of handloom weavers units.
Figure:3.2 Number of Handloom Weaver Household units in U.P.

The researcher found many relevant issues which are the causes of
reducing weaver households in the country as well as in Uttar Pradesh. The
major causes are:
Handloom workers are shifting in to other jobs, which is due to severe
competition from the power loom. Apart from this issue, the other reason is
globalization, because with the coming of economic liberalization in 1991, the
govt. policy towards these type of industries have changed and since 1998
subsidies have started to decrease and purchases of handloom products by
govt. corporations have also fallen.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh the other factor is also very responsible for
the diminishing of handloom households, that is closure of Janta dhoti scheme.
During the period 1980-1994 the scheme of Janta dhoti was in operation at
that time, the state govt. organized the supply of adequate quantity of yarn to
the handloom cooperative society and the weavers, the yarn was directly
supplied by Uttar Pradesh State Textile Corporation (UPSTC), U.P.
cooperative spinning mills, under control of state government through U.P.
handloom corporation and Uttar Pradesh Industrial Co-operative Associates
Ltd. (UPICA) and a subsidy of 20% was provided by the central govt., that
was the golden era for handloom weavers in U.P.
During the process of globalization and liberalization of the industry,
most of the subsidy were withdrawn including janta dhoti scheme, due to
which most of the skilled master weavers shifted to different jobs and
migrated to other textile centers, and it was the turning point of the handloom
industry

where

the

activity
50

started

diminishing.

3.3 Growth of Handlooms or Looms:

Handloom is a machine that is used for weaving thread into cloth and it is operated by hands. It is the basic infrastructure of the
handloom industry and in every state of India the existence of looms is maintained from the past.
In the country the expansion of looms are estimated by many reports (table 3.1) such as in 1921, the number of estimated looms
were 12.6 lacs in India, further tax enquiry committee report estimated in 1954 there were 28.7 lacs handlooms found and
according to another govt. report that in the year of 1983, total number of looms were 38.2 lacs. Till 1983, the numbers of looms
were increasing, but if we go through from national handloom census reports (1987-88 to 2009-10), we found the following
statistics about the growth of looms.
Table: 3.6 State-wise Distributions of Handloom Household & Non Household Looms and their Working Status
State wise Distribution of HH & Non HH Looms and their working status
1987-88

1995-96

2009-10

Sr.

Growth

Growth

rate

rate

No.

States

Working

Idle

Total

Working

Idle

Total

(%age)

Working

Idle

Total

(%age)

Andhra Pradesh

213404

6311

219715

183093

19007

202100

-8.02%

117745

6969

124714

-38.29%

Arunachal
2

Pradesh

45060

456

45516

35626

3966

39592

-13.02%

21403

5883

27286

-31.08%

Assam

1298731

110437

1409168

1199878

122178

1322056

-6.18%

982672

128905

1111577

-15.92%

Bihar

72965

9692

82657

40532

5688

46220

-44.08%

8501

6472

14973

-67.60%

Chhattisgarh

2324

147

2471

Gujarat

21165

1408

22573

17387

3163

20550

-8.96%

3584

316

3900

-81.02%

Haryana

17378

2894

20272

17398

5320

22718

12.07%

4019

857

4876

-78.54%

Himachal Pradesh

30991

373

31364

46876

755

47631

51.87%

5425

153

5578

-88.29%

25253

19

25272

16595

1559

18154

-28.17%

7166

135

7301

-59.78%

Jammu &
9

Kashmir

51

10

Jharkhand

1891

237

2128

11

Karnataka

76719

4866

81585

60344

10491

70835

-13.18%

34606

5882

40488

-42.84%

12

Kerala

41904

9725

51629

38060

11448

49508

-4.11%

8826

4271

13097

-73.55%

13

Madhya Pradesh

31380

16051

47431

17788

4748

22536

-52.49%

3394

210

3604

-84.01%

14

Maharashtra

66437

1205

67642

35542

4358

39900

-41.01%

3251

1260

4511

-88.69%

15

Manipur

266915

3346

270261

267470

14026

281496

4.16%

186707

3931

190634

-32.28%

16

Meghalaya

7783

418

8201

8348

619

8967

17

Mizoram

94388

9406

103794

23467

669

24136

18

Nagaland

71636

5867

77503

83305

4573

87878

13.39%

44601

3087

47688

-45.73%

19

Orissa

92316

26689

119005

78667

14202

92869

-21.96%

38637

5015

43652

-53.00%

20

Punjab

11292

936

12228

5460

1096

6556

-46.39%

261

261

-96.02%

21

Rajasthan

31694

1562

33256

30336

4007

34343

3.27%

5065

338

5403

-84.27%

22

Sikkim

305

40

345

23

Tamil Nadu

402046

26499

428545

360474

52700

413174

-3.59%

149442

5067

154509

-62.60%

24

Tripura

116659

2413

119072

116078

1714

117792

-1.07%

133132

5879

139011

18.01%

25

Uttar Pradesh

243675

17039

260714

157666

31904

189570

-27.29%

76174

4121

80295

-57.64%

26

Uttrakhand

3545

221

3766

27

West Bengal

318514

19985

338499

319807

30847

350654

3.59%

268068

39761

307829

-12.21%

28

Goa

41

54

95

14

29

43

-54.74%

29

Delhi

8326

1010

9336

5818

1209

7027

-24.73%

2184

376

2560

-63.57%

30

Pondicherry

4841

402

5243

2924

182

3106

-40.76%

1693

78

1771

-42.98%

3611513

279063

3890576

3137138

3491710

3486308

-10.39%

2146436

230899

2377331

-31.81%

93%

7%

100%

90%

10%

100%

90%

10%

100%

31

India(Total)*

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile, GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powe rlooms 1995-96,GOI, NCAER
Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI, NCAER.

52

Figure 3.3 Number of Handloom Household & Non Household Looms in

India

According to first national level census of handloom, in 1987-88

there were 38.9 lacs handlooms in the country out of which 2 lacs involved
with NHH units and rest 36.9 lacs looms were household looms. The state of
Assam, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal were top three states respectively, where
maximum numbers of looms were found. The lowest number of looms was
found in Union Territories. Among total number of looms in 1987-88 nearly
36.11 lacs (93%) were functioning while 2.7 lacs (7%) were lying idle, as
observed from the Table 3.6.
Figure: 3.4-3.5 Number of Working and Idle Looms in Handloom
Household & Non Household Units in India in 1987-88 & 1995-96.
Figure:3.4

Figure:3.5

53

The functioning or working looms was defined as a complete loom

that has been operated at least for one day during the last one year or is at
present working. The idle loom was defined as a complete loom that has not
been used for even a single day during last one year. Among total number of
working loom in 1987-88, 57 per cent handlooms were used for commercial
purpose and rest of 43 per cent were domestic. The Table 3.6 exhibits that
highest number of looms were noticed in Assam (36.22%) but there, the
weaving is undertaken for domestic purpose.
As per joint census of handloom & power loom 1995-96 in the
country, there were 34.8 lacs looms found in HH and Non-HH, of which 90%
looms were in working order and remaining 10% were in idle condition, as
compared to 1987-88 the number of idle looms had increased by 3% (figure
3.5). In 1995-96 Assam, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal were again the top
three states respectively where the concentration of looms was higher than
other states. It is found that among 24 states Haryana, West Bengal, Manipur,
Nagaland and Rajasthan were showing positive growth in terms of number of
looms.
In 2009-10 the data of handloom census of India reveals that 23.7
Lacs looms in both HH and NHH were found out of which 90% were
functioning while 10% were idle, shown in below Figure 3.6. Assam, West
Bengal and Manipur were such three states respectively where the highest
concentrations of looms have found. While only Tripura was showing the
positive growth among 23 states of the country (table 3.6).

Figure: 3.6 Number of Working and Idle Looms in Handloom

Household & Non Household Units in 2009-10 in India

54

Usage of Looms:
As far as their usage is concerned, the census reports categorized usage of
looms as follows:
i.

Working domestic looms are those working looms, which are used for
non-commercial purposes such as making fabrics for domestic
consumption.

ii.

Working Commercial looms are those types of looms, which are used
for an occupational purpose or those looms make fabric for market
consumption.

iii.

Both commercial and domestic (working) looms are those looms

which make fabric for both domestic and market consumption. This
type is categorized recently by third handloom census (2009-10).

Table: 3.7 Distribution of Working looms by purpose of Usage in India

Number of Working Commercial and Domestic looms (India)
Commercial

Domestic

Both Commercial & Domestic

2056927

1554586

56.95%

43.05%

1364187

1772951

43.49%

56.51%

625069

893872

572210

1986-87

Total
3611513

1995-96

3137138

2009-10

2091151
29.89%

42.75%

27.36%

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile, GOI
Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.
Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.

The figure 3.7 and table 3.7 presents the usage of looms in India, here
looms are used for both purposes, but the North States of the country, which
account for the highest proportion of HH looms, also have the lowest
proportion in commercial use. In other states, the looms are largely used for
commercial purposes.

55

Figure : 3.7 Working looms by purpose of Usage in India

Growth of Looms in Uttar Pradesh

According to the census of handloom, in the year of 1987-88, the total
numbers of looms were 2.6 lacs in Uttar Pradesh. In 1995-96, there were 1.8
lacs looms, while in 2009-10, the total number of looms was found 0.8 lac, it
has shown in the figure 3.8. Although, in almost every district of the state the
looms have noticed but a drastic drop has found in the number of looms during
1987-88 to 2009-10, the following figure is representing the declining trend of
looms in Uttar Pradesh.

Figure: 3.8 Number of Handloom Household & Non Household

Looms in Uttar Pradesh

56

Table: 3.8 District wise Distribution of Household Looms in Uttar

Pradesh
District wise Distribution of household looms in Uttar Pradesh
District

1995-96

2009-10

Working

Idle

Total

Working

Idle

Total

Growth
(%age)

AGRA

1643

28

1671

40

10

50

-97.01%

ALIGARH

3269

472

3741

62

15

77

-97.94%

ALLAHABAD

184

313

497

AMBEDKAR NAGAR

139

256

395

514

517

30.89%

AZAMGARH

8747

432

9179

10490

536

11026

20.12%

BADAUN

389

393

BAGHPAT

1138

283

1421

BAHRAICH

21

24

BALIA

522

162

684

BANDA

22

104

126

BARABANKI

9192

731

9923

4971

72

5043

-49.18%

BAREILY

1116

25

1141

486

93

579

-49.26%

BASTI

2393

2992

5385

BHAODHI

297

22

319

BIJNOR

9435

1351

10786

176

176

-98.37%

BULANDSHAHAR

1517

673

2190

224

13

237

-89.18%

CHANDAULI

2897

315

3212

DEVARIA

312

318

ETAWAH

1018

173

1191

458

462

-61.21%

ETAH

1844

324

2168

FAIZABAD

FARUKKHABAD

190

185

375

34

34

-90.93%

FATEHPUR

87

170

257

-99.22%

FIROZABAD

143

23

166

-98.19%

GHAZIPUR
GAUTAM BUDH
NAGAR

3452

380

3832

83

86

-97.76%

GHAZIABAD

1638

168

1806

36

36

-98.01%

GONDA

44

10

54

GORAKHPUR

1180

5597

6777

628

24

652

-90.38%

HAMIRPUR

506

511

19

19

-96.28%

HARDOI

2576

92

2668

275

24

299

-88.79%

HATHRAS

NA

57

19

76

JALAUN

676

29

705

131

131

-81.42%

JAUNPUR

689

110

799

-99.62%

JHANSI

888

239

1127

1358

181

1539

36.56%

KANPUR DEHAT

296

24

320

66

69

-78.44%

KANPUR NAGAR

1036

263

1299

898

152

1050

-19.17%

KHERI

210

33

243

27

27

-88.89%

LALITPUR

310

44

354

32

32

-90.96%

57

LUCKNOW

223

13

236

MAHOBA

472

74

546

MAHRAJGANJ

45

45

11

11

-75.56%

MAINPURI

94

15

109

19

19

-82.57%

MATHURA

1461

68

1529

-99.80%

MAU

3951

253

4204

877

35

912

-78.31%

MEERUT

3359

491

3850

314

15

329

-91.45%

MIRZAPUR

6160

1670

7830

1282

127

1409

-82.01%

MORADABAD

6182

1588

7770

12744

105

12849

65.37%

MUZAFFAR NAGAR

3219

702

3921

103

107

-97.27%

PADRAUNA

81

83

PILIBHIT

305

200

505

1319

106

1425

182.18%

PRATAPGARH

650

71

721

RAE BARELY

245

248

RAMPUR

3411

288

3699

228

230

-93.78%

SAHARANPUR
SANT KABIR
NAGAR
SANT RAVIDAS
NAGAR

1226

51

1277

115

120

SHAHJAHAN PUR

81

81

SIDDHART

538

562

1100

SITAPUR

5405

1049

6454

1475

59

1534

-76.23%

SONBHADRA

165

170

SULTAN PUR

1020

55

1075

UNNAO

956

614

1570

265

71

336

-78.60%

VARANASI

51690

6058

57748

29939

1439

31378

-45.66%

146491

29709
16.86
%

176200

73809

3718

77527

-56%

100%

95.3%

4.7%

100%

TOTAL

83.14%

Source: -Compiled from:

Report of planning commission, vol.2, Uttar Pradesh,1995-96.

Handloom Census of India, Ministry of Textile,GOI,2009-10.

As the table 3.8 describes that only 4 districts namely Ambedkar

Nagar, Azamgarh, Moradabad and Pilibhit are showing positive growth in
terms of household looms, while the highest number of household looms
found in district Varanasi. Among total household looms 83.14% were
functioning and rest 16.86% looms were found idle in 1995-96. While in
2009-10, the number of working looms was increased. In this year 95.3% were
working and 4.7% were found idle.(figure 3.9& 3.10).
As table 3.8 highlights that since 1995 to 2009-10 the negative growth is
found in 33 districts, the major reduction has found in Agra, Aligarh, Bijnore,
58

Bulandshahar, Farrukkhabad, Fatehpur, Firozabad, Ghaziabad, Ghazipur,

Gorakhpur, Hamirpur, Hardoi, Jalaun, Jaunpur,

Mainpuri, Mathura,

Muzaffarnagar and Rampur. These districts are mostly belong to western Uttar
Pradesh and if we discuss about increasing looms, only Ambedkar Nagar,
Azamgarh, Moradabad and Pilibhit districts reported positive growth in terms
of having looms

Figure : 3.9 & 3.10 Number of Looms by Working Status in Uttar

Pradesh

Table: 3.9 Distribution of Working Looms by Purpose of Usage

Number of (Working) Commercial and Domestic looms (Uttar Pradesh)
Commercial

Domestic

Both Commercial and Domestic

236751

6924

97.16%

2.84%

123085

34781

77.97%

22.03%

69886

2316

1607

94.68%

3.14%

2.18%

1987-88

Total
243675

1995-96

157866

2009-10

73809

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile, GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96, GOI, NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10, GOI, NCAER.

The table 3.6 shows that in 1987-88 total numbers of looms were 2.6
lacs in Uttar Pradesh of which, 93.5 percent loom were functioning. Among
functioning looms, 97 per cent were used for commercial purpose where as
59

only 3 percent were domestic looms, this data clearly indicate that in Uttar
Pradesh, looms are mainly used for commercial purpose.
In the state of Uttar Pradesh 97.2 percent looms were found in HH units while
2.8 percent were involved with Non-HH.
As per the handloom census of India 1995-96 there were 1.8 lacs
looms in HH and NHH units, 83 percent were in function and rest 17 percent
were idle, and among in working looms 78 percent were commercial looms
and 22 percent were weaving for domestic needs, surprisingly the number of
domestic looms have increased from 3 percent to 22 percent.
In census report of 2009-10, there were 80.2 thousand looms were captured
and around 95 percent were in working order observed from the Figure 3.8.
The table 3.9 shows that in U.P. in 2009-10 fully Domestic looms are 3.1
percent, looms for commercial purposes are 94.6% and rest 2.1% are for (both
commercial & domestic) purposes.
The district wise table of Uttar Pradesh describes that Varanasi,
Bijnore and Barabanki district respectively have the higher number of looms
in 1995-96 and if we discuss about the current figure Varanasi district again
occupied the first rank in terms of having highest number of looms but the
quantity of looms have decreased from 57748 to 31378 during 1995-96 to
2009-10 in Varanasi. Next in order comes district Moradabad and Azamgarh,
both districts are showing positive growth in number of looms.
The following figure is showing the declining picture of the looms and
also the usage of working looms in the handloom sector in Uttar Pradesh.

Figure: 3.11 Working Looms by Purpose of Usage

60

The total numbers of looms in Uttar Pradesh have reduced from 2.6
lacs to 80 thousands during 1995-96 to 2009-10, it is a drastic drop found in
number of looms, as the Figure 3.8 presented. The share of commercial looms
is higher than domestic looms. Here more than 90% looms are being used for
Commercial purpose observed from above figures.
It is clear from both Figure 3.3 and Figure 3.8 (Presenting the declining
trend in looms in India and the state of Uttar Pradesh) the number of looms
have declined. The decreasing looms are the consequence of many factors; the
major factor is the competition from power loom sector.
The power looms which recorded an unprecedented increase from 1.5 lacs in
1963 to 3.09 lacs in 1975, the growth of power loom sector can be seen from
the table 3.10.

Table: 3.10 Growth of Power looms in India

YEAR

NO. OF POWERLOOM

2002-2003

16,92737

2003-2004

1836856

2004-2005

1902953

2005-06

1943892

2006-07

1990308

2007-08

2106370

2008-09

2205352

2009-10

2246474

2010-11(UP TO 31.10.2010)

2269469

Source:

Annual Report of Textile Industry, Ministry of Textiles

The direct impact of the power loom growth on the handlooms can be
gauged from the assessment of the high powered committee of the planning
commission headed by Sivaraman. According to which the addition of one
power loom resulted in the displacement of six handlooms.
The weavers also started switching their job from handloom to power
loom due to low income level, and it is also a fact that their children are not
interested to continue their traditional occupation, resulted the number of
looms are reducing day by day.
Type of Looms:
As far as types of looms are concerned, the following type of looms is
found in India61

Pit looms:
A pit looms is one where the weaver sits in a pit and operates the loom
and loom itself is fitted in to the pit, the pedals for working the shedding
motion (tana) are placed in the pit. There are many types of pit looms and it is
very conventional and old designed type of loom.
The table 3.11 depicts about the type of loom that in 1987-88, in the
country 40 percent looms were pit loom in both HH and NHH. While in 199596 there was 38 percent pit looms noticed in the country and the data of 200910 presents that in India, the number of pit looms have decreased and only 25
percent pit handlooms have seen.
Table : 3.11 Distribution of Looms by Type
Distribution of Looms by type (India)

1987-88*

1995-96**

Pit Looms(All

Frame loom (All

Pedal Loom (All

types)

types)

types)

Other Looms

1583655

1120804

80595

1105522

40.70%

28.81%

2.07%

28.42%

1236391

657583

110618

1283964

37.60%

20.00%

3.36%

39.04%

570860

1342870

32619

349281

24.87%

58.50%

1.42%

15.22%

2009-10**

Total
Looms
3890576

3288556

2295630

Distribution of Looms by type (Uttar Pradesh)

Pit Looms(All

Frame loom (All

Pedal Loom (All

types)

types)

types)

Other Looms

217747

26882

6951

9134

83.52%

10.31%

2.67%

3.50%

87708

12429

6456

76465

47.91%

6.79%

3.53%

41.77%

73694

3179

347

307

95.06%

4.10%

0.45%

0.40%

1987-88*

1995-96**

2009 -10**

Total
Looms
260714

183058

77527

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

*Data related to HH & NHH looms,**data related to only HH looms

Frame looms:
An ordinary frame loom is fitted into a frame above the ground, this
loom can be fitted with either a dobby or a jacquard for making embroidery in
62

the fabric, this type of loom is less expensive and a more compact alternative
to a table or floor loom, it is also very versatile in nature and can make many
kinds of fabrics faster than pit looms.
According to census of handlooms in 1987-88, in India 29 percent
frame looms were operating but as per joint census of handloom & power
loom in 1995-96, the number of frame looms have reduced by 19 percent in
this year, 20 percent frame looms was in existed in HH units and further as per
IIIrd handloom census (2009-10), frame looms were found in highest number
(58.5 percent) among all type of looms.

Pedal looms:
This type of looms is semi- automatic looms, with the only activity
manual being the shedding motion (tana) with the use of the pedal. The other
motions of weaving including the picking (bana) and the beating motion are
done automatically. The loom itself almost looks like a power loom with the
metallic frame and production is much faster as compared to other kinds of
handlooms. Pedal looms were only 2 percent in the country in the year of
1987-88, mainly it was found in the state of Assam and West Bengal while in
1995-96 it was noticed that there were 3.4 percent pedal looms in India but in
2009-10 only 1.4 percent pedal looms are left.

Other loomsMajorly pit, frame and pedal looms are found in India but other looms
are also in existence like loin loom which is largely found in North Eastern
states of the country, shawls, chaddars wall hangings and small durries are
woven by this type of looms the another type is semi- automatic, Chittaranjan
looms, Inchakaranji looms and modernized Malabar looms etc.
If we discuss about the change adopted in types of looms, the
conventional and oldest type pit loom usage has decreased in every census
survey report in the country, as exhibited in the Table 3.11. It may be said in
the context of India that change has adopted in technology but not as it was
needed, in most of the state technological backwardness is prevailing. Thus,
handloom sector is still considered as technically poor industry.

63

If we see the loom pattern in Uttar Pradesh it could be noticed from

table 3.11 that pit loom was widely used (83.5%) in 1987-88 only 10 percent
frame looms were found and the pedal looms were 2.7 percent. In 1995-96, pit
loom were 48%, pedal looms were only 3.5 percent while frame loom were
noticed 6.8 percent and other type of looms were about 42 percent. But if we
see the data of 2009-10 that in the HH units mostly pit looms (95%) were
found and 4 percent frame looms were noticed in handloom household.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh the change has not adopted in loom pattern
from 1987-88, still weavers are weaving on pit loom as it is described that this
method is very conventional, old type designed and productivity of this loom
is also very low. In the primary survey of few districts in Uttar Pradesh, the
researcher noticed in weavers household that they are very reluctant to adopt
appropriate technology because of belief in their traditional techniques of
looms.

3.4 Growth of Handloom Production:

In the country, total textile sector contributes about 14% to industrial
production, 4% to the GDP, and 17% to the countrys export earnings. Every
sector of textile industry is contributing a significant role in total textile
production. Table 3.12 presents the sector wise growth of textile production.
Table: 3.12 Sector-wise Production of Textile in India
Total Textile Production Sector wise (Million Sqr. Mtrs.)
Mill

1980-81
1987-88
1995-96
2010-2011

Handloom

Power loom

Hosiery

4533

3109

4802

36.43%

24.98%

38.59%

3178

4370

10429

17.68%

24.31%

58.01%

2019

7202

17201

5038

6.42%

22.89%

54.68%

16.01%

2208

6903

37517

14372

3.62%

11.32%

61.50%

23.56%

Source:
Ministry of Textile,GOI -

64

Total

12444
17977
31460
61000

Figure 3.12 - 3.15

Sector wise Production of Textile in India

Figure 3.12

Figure 3.13

Figure 3.14

Figure 3.15

If we compare the contribution of every sector in total cloth

production, we see in above Table 3.12 that every sector is playing important
role in total textile production. In 1980-81 the countrys one fourth production
was coming from handloom; the highest contribution was coming from Power
loom sector. The share of Power loom was increased from 39 percent to 61
percent during 1981 to 2011-12, hosiery sector also contributes a major role
and its production is also increased, while mill sector is drastically
diminishing.
Despite the above condition the potential of handloom is still
significant. Handloom sector plays a very significant role in the country's
65

economy this sector contributes nearly 11.5% of the total cloth produced in the
country and also adds substantially to export earning, this sector is
unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility permitting experimentation and
encouraging innovations. The strength of handloom lies in the introducing
innovative designs, which cannot be replicated by the power loom sector.

Thus handloom forms a part of the heritage of India & exemplifies the
richness & diversity of our country and the artistry of the weavers. If the
handloom has survived it is because of its highest elastic range of adaption in
meeting communities needs and its ability to produce exquisite fabrics which
mills cannot produce in spite of all their sophisticated technologies. The
handloom weaving is practiced in many different regions and each area has its
own particulars style using traditional designs and motifs.

Handloom producing a lots of variety as follows dhoti, sari, towel,

napkin, bed sheet, sarong, furnishing, gamchas/ angavastram, lungi, shirtings,
suiting, dress materials, long cloth, shawls, loi, blanket, duster, durries,
bandage, mekhla, chaddar, etc. the below table highlighted, the total textile
production as well as the share of handloom sector.

The growth of production has shown in table 3.13 since 1981 up to

2011-12 (Apr - Mar). It is clear from the data that in the age of liberalization
and globalization, handloom industry which is a village and cottage industry
still contributing a important share in the total textile production (table.3.13)
Although the production of handloom has increase but the share in total
production is reduced year by year and the percentage growth is found
negative of handloom sector.

P.T.O

66

Table: 3.13 Handloom Productions in India since 1981 to 2011-12

Handloom productions in India since 1981 (in million meters)
Production of handloom
Year

(In figures)

(In %)

Total Textile Production

1980-81

3109

25%

12444

1981-82

3046

25%

12308

1982-83

3234

28%

11685

1983-84

3429

26%

13109

1984-85

3639

27%

13548

1985-86

4135

24%

17213

1986-87

4305

24%

17937

1987-88

4370

24%

17977

1988-89

3993

20%

20018

1989-90

3924

19%

20598

1990-91

4295

19%

22928

1991-92

4123

18%

22588

1992-93

5219

21%

25045

1993-94

5851

21%

27472

1994-95

6180

22%

28175

1995-96

7202

23%

31460

1996-97

7457

22%

34298

1997-98

7604

21%

36896

1998-99

6792

19%

35543

1999-2000

7353

19%

38626

2000-01

7472

19%

40333

2001-02

7585

18%

41390

2002-03

5989

14%

41462

2003-04

5581

13%

42933

2004-05

5705

13%

44991

2005-06

6108

13%

48826

2006-07

6535

12%

52689

2007-08

6947

13%

55276

2008-09

6677

12%

54198

2009-10

6769

11%

58996

2010-11 (Apr-March)

6903

11%

60999

2011-12(Apr-March)

6930

11%

60566

Source:

Ministry of Textile,GOI

67

Figure: 3.16 Comparison of Handloom Production & Total Textile

Production in India

The share of handloom production in total textile was 24.98%

in 1981 and currently in the year of 2011-12 (Apr-March) it is noticed 11.44%
.Since 1981 to 2011-12 the production of handloom share in total textile
production has decreased by 50% where the total production of textile sector is
increasing and since 1981 to 2011-12, in only four year the production has
decreased in a minor way. The figure 3.16 shows that the total textile
production is growing, while, handloom sector is showing a stable trend in
production performance.
Regarding handloom production, in U.P. the handloom census data shows
the average monthly production which is presented in the below table 3.14.
Table: 3.14 Average Monthly Productions of Handloom Fabrics in Uttar
Pradesh
Monthly Production of Handloom textiles (In meters)
Year
Uttar Pradesh

1987-88

1995-96

61307229

29718570

Source- compiled from:

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88, Ministry of Textile,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Power looms 1995-96,NCAER

68

Figure 3.17 Average Monthly Productions of Handloom Fabrics in U.P.

As the figure 3.17 shows that, in the state of U.P., the growth of
handloom production has been drastically declined during 1987-88 to 199596. There are many responsible factors behind the decreasing production of
handloom; some major factors are as follows:
Mill & Power loom are playing major role in decreasing the handloom
products because it is also mentioned in chapter-5 that Mill & Power loom are
producing same articles like handloom and on mill & Power loom the
production process takes very little time to prepare products and products are
also cheaper than handloom. Therefore, people buy same articles made by mill
& Power loom at cheaper prices.
Low demand of handloom products is a big reason of declining
production because most of the states are still weaving only traditional things
like sari, dhoti, gamchha etc. the products are not updated according to the
changing trends, thus today customers are not taking much interest in
handloom articles.
Low wage rate of weavers, their poor living conditions forced
handloom workers to migrate from handloom sector and therefore the
employment and production is decreasing in handloom industry.
The inadequate supply or non availability of hank yarn at reasonable
prices to handloom units in rural areas is one of the important causes for
decline in contribution of handloom in total fabric production.
The other factor is price elasticity of demand of handloom products
is very high even a slight increase in the price of handloom cloth leads to
69

decline in its demand. As we know that there is direct relationship in demand

and supply when demand is low supply will be low.

3.5 Export Performance of the Handloom Sector:

India is a country rich in tradition and cultural heritage. Handloom sector is
contributing a significant role in the economy of India; the total value of
export of handloom textile from India is Rs. 1662.89 crores in the year 201011. The handloom share in total textile export is exhibited in the following
table.

Table: 3.15 Share of Handloom in the Export of total Textile (%)

YEAR

HANDLOOM (%)

1985-86

7.2

1986-87

5.2

1987-88

4.8

1988-89

4.7

1989-90

3.5

1990-91

2.4

1991-92

2.5

1992-93

2.7

1993-94

2.1

1994-95

1.6

1995-96

1.3

Source:
Roy T. et al (1998), in Gulati, Preeti, Unpublished Thesis, School of Planning, CEPT,
Ahmedabad.

The table 3.15 shows that the handloom sector is contributing in total
textile sector, but the share of handloom products export in total textile export
has been decreased. The decline of handloom share is the result of competition
from power loom sector, because power loom is also producing the same
articles like handloom at cheaper prices.

P.T.O

70

3.6 Growth of Average Production of Fabric or Productivity of

Weavers in Handloom Sector:
In the country many types of cloth varieties is produced in the
handloom sector. The productivity of weavers is depend on many factors, such
as the type of yarn used, for example, pure silk fabrics average a low
production per weaver per day, while the fabric with zari result in production
rates of 2-3 mtrs. per weaver per day, weavers working with cotton yarn
average over 3 mtrs. per weaver per day. The type of technology, which is
used for weaving, also impacts the productivity.
The informations from weaver household on average production of
fabrics per weaver per day(linear meters) are exhibited in table 3.16.

Table: 3.16

Distribution of Weaver Household by Average Production

of Cloth per Day in India

Distribution of Weaver Households by Average Production of cloths per weaver per day
in India (In Meters)
All

1987-88

1995-96

2009-10*

<1 meter

1-2 meter

1499071

399151

179282

297002

685583

48.99%

13.04%

5.86%

9.71%

22.40%

1710283

268064

139411

156104

250650

67.75%

10.62%

5.52%

6.18%

9.93%

<1 meter

1-2 meter

2-3 meters

3-4 meters

>4 meters

826981

581462

190683

85130

116744

45.92%

32.29%

10.59%

4.73%

6.48%

2-3 meters

3-5 meters

>5 meters

Households
3060089

2524512

1801000

Source:Compiled from-

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

*the data of this year was only sought from those weavers who had a working loom
in their premises

The growth of average production of fabric or growth of productivity

of weavers in handloom sector can be analyzed from the following discussion.

71

Figure 3.18 Distribution of Weaver Household by Avrg. Length fabrics in

India

The data presented in table 3.16, can be analyzed also by figure 3.18,
that in 1987-88 in the country, 49 percent HH were producing up to one meter
of cloth and 13 percent HH have reported about their productivity between 1-2
meters and 6 percent HH were reported production of 2-3 meters while almost
10 percent HH were weaving between 3-5 meters and remaining 22 percent
HH reported more than 5 meters in the country.
The census report also reveals that average production per weaver is
higher in urban areas. In 1995 census of handloom shows in table 3.16 that in
the country more than 65 percent HH units were producing up to 1 meter, 10
percent HH reported production of 1-2 meter, while 5.5 per cent HH produced
2-3 meter per day, 6 percent HH were weaving between 3-5 and rest nearly 10
percent HH were producing more than 5 meter. The statistics on productivity
shows that the production per worker at all India level is declined over the
period 1987-88 to 1995-96. Although many states reported that their

72

productivity is increasing but at the all India level the reduction is found in
average productivity of weavers.
In 2009-10, the data of handloom census of India reveals that 45.9
percent HH reported production of less than one meter per day, 32.3 percent
HH were weaving 1-2 meter per day, while 10.6 percent HH reported
production of 2-3 meter per day and only 4.7 percent were reported 3-4 meter
per day and remaining 6.5 percent HH reported that they are weaving more
than 4 meter per day.
It is noticed that productivity of weavers has declined; earlier in 198788 (table 3.16) in India more than 22 percent HH reported production of more
than 5 meters while in 2009-10 only 6.5 percent HH were producing more
than 4 meters.
Average production of fabrics in Uttar Pradesh:
Uttar Pradesh is a state where fabric is mostly prepared for commercial
purposes. The average production of fabrics in U.P. is as follows:

Table: 3.17 Distribution of Weaver Households by Average Production

of Cloth per Day in Uttar Pradesh
Distribution of Weaver Households by Average Production of cloths per day in U.P. (In Meters)

1987-88

1995-96

2009-10*

<1

1-2

All

meter

meter

2-3 meters

3-5 meters

>5 meters

46567

10990

4401

10301

117258

24.57%

5.80%

2.32%

5.44%

61.87%

63723

12273

11978

14481

38539

45.20%

8.70%

8.50%

10.27%

27.33%

<1

1-2

meter

meter

2-3 meters

3-4 meters

>4 meters

39281

5875

1746

1827

28782

50.68%

7.58%

2.25%

2.36%

37.13%

Households
189517

140994

77511

Source :Compiled from-

Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile, GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

.*the data of this year was only sought from weavers who had a working loom in
their premises.

73

Figure 3.19 Distribution of Weaver Household by Avrg. Length fabrics in Uttar

Pradesh

In the case of U.P. in 1987-88 more than half HH were producing 5

meters and above per day, as the Table 3.17 and Figure 3.19 shows that one
fourth HH reported less than one meter per day while 5.8 percent HH
productivity was noticed between 1-2 meter per day and 2.3 percent HH
reported production between 2 to 3 meter per day and rest 5.4 percent HH
were producing between 3-5 meter per day.

In 1995-96 in U.P, it was observed that nearly 45.20 percent HH

reported production of less than 1 meter and around 27.33 percent HH had
reported that their productivity was more than 5 meters.

It is observed in the year of 2009-10, the productivity is declined

because the numbers of those households are increased, who are producing
less than one meter. As per handloom census 2009-10 in Uttar Pradesh more
than half HH produce less than one meter, 37.16% weaver HH reported that

74

they are producing more than 4 mtrs. This low productivity occurred due to
many reasons-

Mostly weavers are self trained they learn weaving at their home and
the formal training institutions are lacking for handloom weavers.

In handloom sector low average production of fabric is also because of

old type of loom structure and design, this type of loom require more effort to
operate the loom resulting in excessive fatigue, accessories used in loom like
reed shuttle pirn etc. are not of appropriate quality in most cases resulting in
poor quality of fabric, less efficiency of the loom more fatigue of the weavers.

Although the government started many programs for training facility

for weavers and advancement of loom but the problem is, that these programs
are not implementing properly.

3.7 Growth of Yarn Consumption:

Yarn is the most important input of the handloom industry. Cotton is
that type of yarn that is basis to most of the handloom fabrics and therefore it
is used extensively and it was found during the third round of handloom
census that cotton of different counts is used by most weavers for the
production of different fabrics like gamchha, angavastram, sari, dhoti, lungi,
towels, napkins etc.

Wool is also used in handloom production especially in North East and

the Northern state for products such as shawl and blankets. While, silk yarn is
used by a smaller proportion of the weavers in the country.

P.T.O

75

Table:3.18 Average Monthly Consumption of Different Types of Yarn in Handloom Household Units (in. Kgs.)

Average Monthly consumption of different types of Yarn in HH Units in India (in. Kgs)
Viscose &

Mulberry

Muga

Eri

Tussar

Zari

Total Yarn

Year

Cotton

Blends

Silk

Silk

Silk

silk

Silk

Wool

Polyester

Other

1987-

127308198

5134685

6760484

21655

92514

123455

10510863

293598

1654621

88*

83.81%

3.38%

4.45%

0.01%

0.06%

0.08%

6.92%

0.19%

1.09%

22134422

649048

791530

92832

87295

179036

503527

2976429

384176

1577949

75.35%

2.21%

2.69%

0.32%

0.30%

0.61%

1.71%

10.13%

1.31%

5.37%

1995-96

Consumption
151900073

29376243

Average Monthly consumption of different types of Yarn in HH Units in Uttar Pradesh (in. Kgs)
Viscose&

Mulberry

Muga

Eri

Tussar

Zari

Cotton

Blends

Silk

silk

silk

silk

silk

Wool

Polyester

Other

1987-

19666455

69880

127620

4099

787

4749

509072

148343

250446

88*

94.63%

0.34%

0.61%

0.02%

0.00%

0.02%

2.45%

0.71%

1.21%

3153068

221059

100437

35110

46905

47029

96743

171391

66394

468347

71.56%

5.02%

2.28%

0.80%

1.06%

1.07%

2.20%

3.89%

1.51%

10.63%

Year

1995-96

Total Yarn

Source

:Census of Handlooms in India 1987-88,Ministry of Textile,GOI.

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

*As per Joint Census of Handloom & Power loom 1995-96,Yarn consumption data obtained in 1987-88 was unreliable.

76

Consumption
20781451

4406483

In India in 1995-96, it is observed from table 3.18 that the consumption

of wool yarn is increased from 6 percent to 10 percent from 1987-88 and other
types of yarn consumption were also increased, while consumption of cotton
yarn has been decreased from 83 percent to 75 percent.
The identified reason behind decreasing consumption of cotton yarn
was that because, power loom started producing the cotton fabric material like
gamcha, dhoti, cotton saree etc. and due to cheaper price of power loom
produced articles, the demand of handloom woven articles declined and
resultant the consumption of cotton yarn have reduced. It was also observed
that consumption of wool yarn, polyester yarn and silk yarn has increased.
If we discuss about the state of Uttar Pradesh in 1987-88 the cotton
yarn was extensively used because 94 percent consumption belongs to cotton
yarn and as the table 3.18 represents 2.45 percent wool yarn have consumed
while the consumption of viscose & blends was 0.34 percent and silk yarn was
less consumed because in Uttar Pradesh only Varanasi and Azamgarh district
were weaving silken items.
In 1995-96 the consumption of cotton yarn was reduced while other
types of yarn consumption has increased. The consumption of cotton yarn has
decreased in U.P as well as in All India level because of high cost of cotton
yarn and often the unavailability of yarn. The other strong factor is closure of
Janta cloth scheme because for weaving Janta Cotton Sari, earlier the
consumption of cotton yarn was very high.

3.8 Growth of Capital Sources in Handloom Industry:

The weavers avail finance from various channels. In formal channels,
the cooperative sector for the purpose of extension of financial facilities is
covered by the Reserve bank of India (RBI) scheme and credit is channelized
through the national bank for agriculture and rural development (NABARD).
Weavers also take loan from commercial banks on the pledge and
hypothecation of property; apart from this, regional rural banks (RRBs) also
provide loans to the weavers on the guarantee of the handloom.

77

Weavers who are outside the fold of cooperative societies, go for other
informal sources for credit, such as master weavers, relatives/friends and
traders etc.

Table 3.19 Source Of Finance in Handloom Household Units in 1995-96

Source Of Finance in HH Units (1995-96)

India

Own

Cooperatives

Commercial Bank

Others

2001284

239416

36092

276630

78.38%

9.3%

1.4%

10.83%

124637

19055

6553

25185

71.4%

10.86%

3.7%

14.35%

Uttar Pradesh

Total

2553422

175430

Source:

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Table 3.20 Source of Finance in Indebted Handloom Household Units in

2009-10

Source Of Finance in HH Units (2009-10)*

Money

Master

Friends/

Lender

Weaver

Relatives

Cooperatives

Com- bank

SHGs

Traders

Others

11317

37755

4105

4990

12525

4213

3598

6062

India

Total

8456
13.38%

Uttar
Pradesh

44.65%

4.85%

5.9%

14.81%

4.9%

4.25%

7.1%

104

822

182

27

195

56

13

7.4%

58.67%

12.99%

1.93%

13.92%

0.14%

4%

.093%

1401

Source:

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

*Data related to indebted Handloom Households.

The first round of handloom census had not covered the information
regarding the sources of finance, while in second handloom census (1995-96) the data
obtained about this source. As per second round census 1995-96 there were many
sources have been mentioned like cooperative, own, commercial banks but many
informal channels like master weavers, traders, friends and relatives were not covered
(table 3.19).

78

Figure 3.20 Source of Finance in Handloom Household Units in 1995-96

Figure 3.21 Source of Finance in Handloom Household Units in 2009-10

(India)

(Uttar Pradesh)

The data reveals that in the country 78 percent HH manage their

financial requirement by their own savings, the category own savings is also
79

consider as a source. Next major source was Others (11%), Cooperative

contributed 9.3 percent and the role of commercial banks was only 1.4
percent. The change observed in 2009-10 at All India level as compared to
1995-96 that master weaver source has became most popular source of finance
(45%) next important source is commercial banks(15%) followed by money
lender, others, cooperatives, SHGs and friends/relatives. The role of
cooperatives has been decreased in 2009-10 from 10% to 6% as comparison to
1995-96. While commercial banks showing more contribution in giving
finance to weavers and its percentage has increased from 1.4 percent to 14.81
percent.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh, in 1995-96 the 71 percent HH were
managing finance from their own savings and next major source was Other
which is 15 percent and lastly there was cooperatives and commercial bank. In
table 3.20 as well as graph presented that in 2009-10 the change is noticed.
Major source of finance has become the master weavers 58% and next major
sources were friend/relatives and commercial banks both contributing around
13% but the role of cooperative has decreased. It is found that weavers are
more convenient to take loans from informal sources rather than cooperative
and commercial banks.
The weavers avoid obtaining loans from the commercial banks
because in banks there is a major problem of time delay in sanctioning,
increasing transaction costs, and bureaucratic attitudes of bankers, lack of
awareness among bankers about handloom sector as well as lack of weavers
assets
. According to Dr. Manmohan singh Access to credit and cost of
credit are two major problems facing by the handloom sector. The reasons for
taking loan mostly from master weavers are due to change in the employment
structure. Earlier major part of weavers was independent but now majorly they
work under master weavers.

80

3.9 Growth of Input Source for Handloom Industry:

3.9.1 Performance of Yarn Source :
Yarn is a basic and very important raw material for handloom weaving
and weavers procure yarn from many sources like open market, cooperatives,
master weavers, National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) and
from other sources.
As far as NHDC is concerned it is an institution for handloom
development and autonomous body under the Companies Act 1956 to assist
the speedy development of the procurement and supply of inputs at reason
able prices augmenting the marketing effort of the state handloom agencies
and initiating developmental activities for upgrading the technology in the
handloom sector and improving productivity. The main objectives of this
corporation are
i.

To facilitate the availability of raw materials like yarn, dyes &

chemicals and other inputs to handloom weaver.

ii.

To play a proactive role for the benefit to the sector.

iii.

To create marketing opportunities for higher output.

Sources of Yarn: As per the census of handloom the major sources and their
contribution in providing yarn is given in following tablesTable 3.21 Source of Yarn for Handloom Households in India
Source Of Yarn in India ( in % )
Open Market

Cooperatives

Master Weaver

SHDC/NHDC

From Others

1995-96

74%

10%

10%

2%

11%

2009-10

77.77%

4.46%

14.14%

0.56%

3.06%

Source

:Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

Table 3.22 Source of Yarn for Handloom Household in Uttar Pradesh

Source Of Yarn in Uttar Pradesh (in %)
Open Market

Cooperatives

Master Weaver

SHDC/NHDC

From Others

1995-96

94%

14%

14%

9%

19%

2009-10

19.88%

0.49%

74.63%

0.07%

4.93%

Source:

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI, NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

81

Figure 3.22 Percentage of Handloom Household Using Different Sources

of Yarn in India

Figure 3.23 Percentage of Handloom Household Using Different Sources

of Yarn in Uttar Pradesh

82

Table 3.21 represents that in India in 1995-96, the main source of yarn
was found open market, 74% HH reported about this source, 10% HH
obtained yarn from co-operative soc.,10% HH reported about master weaver,
11% procured from other source, while the role of State Handloom
Development Cooperation (SHDC) was negligible, in providing yarn to the
weavers. The role of cooperatives was also not significant, because only 10
percent HH collected yarn from there.
In 2009-10 it is noticed that the contribution of government institution
like cooperatives and SHDC got worsen as the table 3.21 shows, only 4.5
percent weavers HH getting yarn from cooperatives, and from SHDC only
0.56 percent HH reported that source. It emerged that both cooperatives as
well as SHDC have failed in achieving their goal. The master weaver as a
source of input yarn has increased from 10% to 14% since 1995 to 2009-10.
Therefore it may be said that in India a major part of HH (77.8% ) are
procuring yarn from open market and it is also clear that in the open market
weavers are also forced to pay higher prices for the yarn.
In the case of Uttar Pradesh in 1995-96, as the table 3.22 open market was
the biggest source for yarn there were more than 90 percent HH reported about
this source,14% HH were procuring from Master Weaver,14% were also
procuring from co-operative society 19% HH obtained from other sources and
9% HH reported about SHDC/NHDC. While, the data of 2009-10 presented
the different picture, in this year the master weavers replaced the open market
as a major source of input and in 2009-10 in U.P., 74.6 percent weaver HH
moved to master weavers for procuring the yarn from them as far as the
government sources is concerned, all are insignificant in providing yarn to this
sector.

3.9.2 Performance of Dyes & Chemical source:

The dyes & chemical are basically used in special shades of colored
yarn for more expensive fabrics and therefore a small proportion of HH buy
dyes and chemicals. The main sources of this input is given in the below table-

83

Table 3.23 Source of Dyes & Chemicals for Handloom Household in

India
Percentage of HH using different sources of D&C (India)
Open Market

Cooperatives

Master Weaver

58%

10%

3%

1%

33%

50.41%

6.48%

20.45%

0.61%

22.04%

1995-96*
2009-10

SHDC/NHDC

From Others

Source

:Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

Figure 3.24

Percentage of Handloom Household Using Different

Sources of Dyes &Chemicals (India)

The table 3.23 represents that in the second round of census (1995-96),
it has found that dyes and chemicals were main sourced from open market
which is 58% at All India level. The major source distribution of HH that
obtain dyes & chemicals is as follows 58% HH procured from open market
and 33% HH reported from other sources.

84

From co operative 10 percent HH have collected and only 1 percent

HH reported from SHDC/ NHDC.
As per the 2009-10 data at All India level, open market is still a major
source for dyes and chemicals as the table 3.24 reveals that 50 per cent HH
procuring dyes & chemicals from open market, it has also found that master
weaver became third major source and the role of cooperatives and SHDC also
reduced in terms of providing dyes & chemicals.

Table 3.24 Source of Dyes & Chemicals for Handloom Household in Uttar
Pradesh.
Percentage of HH using different sources of D&C (Uttar Pradesh)

1995-96*
2009-10

Open Market

Cooperatives

Master Weaver

SHDC/NHDC

From Others

90%

4%

0%

1%

24%

7.15%

0.59%

89.83%

0.10%

2.34%

Source:

Joint Census of Handlooms & Powerlooms 1995-96,GOI,NCAER.

Handloom Census of India 2009-10,GOI,NCAER.

Figure 3.25 Percentage of Handloom Household using different sources

of Dyes & Chemicals ( Uttar Pradesh)

85

In the state of Uttar Pradesh there was also open market as the biggest
sources for dyes & chemicals in 1995-96 as the table 3.24 shows that 90
percent HH were obtaining from there, while 4 percent HH reported from
cooperatives and only 1 percent HH were sourced from SHDC and 24
percent households reported from other sources.

In 2009-10 the master weaver source has become major source for
input of dyes & chemicals because 90 percent HH were procuring from this
source, 7.2 percent HH reported about open market and 2.4 percent HH
procured dyes & chemicals from Other sources.

It is noticed from the figures 3.23 & 3.24 that Open market and master
weavers are two major sources for dyes & chemicals in the handloom sector
because if we see the employment structure of the handloom workers we
noticed that mostly weavers work independently or under master weaver.

Independent handloom worker procure D&C from open market

because of easy availability of it and workers who are engaged with master
weavers they get D & C from master weavers. Therefore this is also a major
reason that input cost is high in the handloom sector.

3.10 Budget Allocation for Handloom Sector:

In the aftermath of the economic reform in India, there has been a
policy shift in favor of organized sector of the economy. Resulted the
allocation of budget are also tilted in favor of organized sector.

As presented in the table 3.25 that, the overall budget for textile sector
has been consistently increasing over the years but the total budget for
handlooms declined over its previous years in six out of the last thirteen years.
Thus, it may be said that handloom industry continues to be neglected in terms
of budgetary allocations.

86

Table 3.25 Handloom Budget Compared Against Textile Budget of India

1997-98
1998-99
1999-00
200-01
2001-02
2002-03
2003-04
2004-05
2005-06
2006-07
2007-08
2008-09

Handloom Budget Compared against Textile Budget (in Rs. Crore)

Handloom Budget (HB)
% Change Total Textile Budger(TB)
in THB
Plan
NonTotal
Plan
Non- Plan
Total
with
Plan
(THB)
(TTB)
1997-98
as base
year
107.00
96.50
203-50
260.00
479.04
739.04
89.80
61.80
151-60
-25.50
260.00
726.58
986.58
81.80
56.50
138-30
-32.03
266.00
740.10
1006.10
112.00
53.29
165.29
-18.77
457.00
754.30
1211.30
116.00
40.50
156.50
-23.09
650.00
660.30
1310.30
117.00
35.83
152.83
-24.89
715.00
80.50
1585.50
129.77
125.91
255.68
25.64
760.00
947.84
1707.84
119.36
132.37
251.73
23.7
878.00
902.31
1780.31
131.00
63.89
194.89
-4.23
1150.00
858.25
2008.25
150.00
91.29
241.29
18.5
1349.50
1696.25
3045.75
252.00
68.75
320.75
57.5
2243.00
893.68
3136.68
255.00
70.32
325.32
59.86
500.00
823.51
3323.51

2009-10

255.00

Year

73.07

328.07

61.2

2500.00

889.00

3389.00

% share of
Handlooms
in Textile
Budget

% Change in
TTB with
1997-98 as
base year
33.49
36.13
63.907
77.29
114.53
131.08
140.89
171.73
312.12
321.72
349.70

27.5
15.3
13.7
13.6
11.9
9.63
14.9
14.1
9.7
7.9
10.22
9.7

358.56

9.68

Source
Compiled from Annual Union Budget of India, Ministry of Finance

The table 3.25 represents that the percentage share of handloom in total
textile budget has been reduced from 27.5 to 9.68 during 1997-98 to2009-10.
Table: 3.26 Revised Budget of Handloom &Total Textile of India
\
Year

handloom Revised

Total Textile Revised

Handloom %
of Total

1997-98

Plan
96.39

Non- Plan
78.37

Total
174.76

Plan
250.00

Non- Plan
842.26

Total
1092.26

1998-99

80.72

58.06

138.78

240.88

766.62

1007.50

13.7

1999-00

78.25

46.92

125.17

260.45

817.27

1077.72

11.6

200-01

85.00

45.65

130.65

408.30

818.82

1227.12

10.6

2001-02

95.77

30.67

126.44

610.00

816.33

1426.33

8.86

2002-03

112.10

100.30

212.40

660.00

947.00

1607.00

13.2

2003-04

111.31

84.06

195.37

675.00

900.00

1575.00

12.4

2004-05

108.96

90.68

199.64

750.00

855.82

1605.82

12.4

2005-06

177.64

68.49

246.13

1185.21

1106.82

2292.03

10.7

2006-07

186..45

44.97

231.42

1629.50

1364.11

2993.61

7.7

2007-08

239.04

68.00

307.04

2323.0

813.68

3136.68

9.7

2008-09

254.70

92.96

347.66

4092.32

1046.68

5139.0

6.7

Source
Compiled from Annual Union Budget of India, Ministry of Finance

87

15.9

The Revised Budget for Handloom:

The general budget is usually announced in the beginning of the fiscal
year and the provisions in the general budget are revised towards the end of
the fiscal year based on actual expenditures. For handlooms in most years, the
revised budget has reduced the allocation to handlooms, resulting in it being
an even smaller proportion of the total textile budget. Revision is always down
ward varying between 10 to 20%.The reducing trend is continues for the years.
This would mean that govt. has failed in utilizing the allocating in funds fully
and properly.
We have analyzed the growth of handloom sector in the country as well
as in U.P., on various criteria such as weaver households, looms, production,
productivity, export, consumption, input and its sources etc. Although, most of
them are showing negative growth as a whole, but some states are performing
well in the country, as well as in Uttar Pradesh, there is also some districts are
showing positive growth of handloom sector. It may be said that this sector
has the potential to survive in the age of mechanization.

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