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DECEM B ER 2015

girls

CLEO ELLIOTT
AND CHLOE LATTANZI
IN MALIBU WITH
GOLDWELL

mane

MAN

TOP TRENDS

Guido
backstage
at Coach.

FROM NYFW SPRING/SUMMER 2016


Redken Global Creative Director
Guido highlights the hottest hair looks
shown on the runway.

Bangs
PRADA Mrs. Prada had this idea of
conservative eccentricity. It feels a bit 20s,
but a bit 70s when women often had very
tough, extreme looks, which makes a strong
statement on the runway. First, I cut each of
the girls bangs to frame her face, giving
each girl her own style. I cut aggressive bangs
on only five or six of the girlsand it works
because part of being a Prada girl is
embracing the moment.

BALE NCIAGA

Ponytails
BALENCIAGA I simply pulled the hair back into a loose,
low ponytail thats sort-of falling out. Then I tucked the hair
behind the ears for a sense of ease and effortlessness.
PR ADA
30 americansalon.com

December 2015

BRAINED

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF STYLISTS

BOB?

WHAT AB O UT

Bobs come in all shapes and sizes.


These looks from community members
are some of our favorites.

\Seamless, razored-in

hair

\The fringe makes

perfection

this bob pop

Tracy Vasquez@
scotchbonnethairstudio

Traci Sakosits @tracisak_hair

\Direction and line


Aaron Johnson
@theaaronjohnson

cross our Hairbrained social media


profiles, we feature a lot of bobs. Bobs
definitely show off cutting ability, and just
like hairdressers, no two are exactly alike.From chinskimming to long and grown out, chic and straight to
edgy and curly, the variations are endless. But regardless
of the style that you and your client agree upon, bobs
require ultimate balance and control of line and can take
years of disciplined focus to master.
Once youve perfected your line and understanding of
graduation, layering and texture are required. With the ability
to combine techniques and incorporate disconnection,
youre limited only by your vision and imaginationand,
of course, the willingness of your client. Heres a sampling
of some of our favorite bobs, all of which have been
submitted and featured in the past few months. Keep
those images coming by uploading to hairbrained.
meand #hairbrained on Instagram.

\Graduated and shattered

Michael Gaglioti@michaelgaglioti

Gerard Scarpaci, hairbrained.me

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December 2015

\Bobs can be curly

Hairbrained is a community of hairdressers that share a deep passion


and desire to celebrate the craft of hairdressing online socially.
The community was founded by two hairdressersRandy Taylor, a
photographer/hairdresser, and Gerard Scarpaci, a world-class educator/
platform artist. For more information, visit hairbrained.me.

Mike Varela@thekingly_hairgroup

in

BRIEF

2
YOUVE BEEN NYXED

NYX Cosmetics, the affordable L.A.-based professional


makeup brand, opened its first flagship store in
Arcadia, CA with additional locations opening
throughout the state and within select urban markets.
The retail store will feature the brands complete
makeup line, an interactive Beauty Bar, a community
social feed wall that will serve as a digital backdrop
for selfies and posts from Instagrammers, and display
custom pieces by renowned female street artist
HUEMAN.M.S.

5
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4
BOOK OF THE MONTH
Vulnerability, courage, shameall emotions most of us have felt at
one time or another, and social scientist Bren Brown explored them
at length in her best-selling book, Daring Greatly. Now in her latest
release, Rising Strong, her subject is getting back up when we fall.
Browns thesis is that in order to get back up when were kicked to the
curb, we have to work through a messy process that could be painful
for us. Fortunately, Brown has offered us a roadmap.M.D.

December 2015

When Jon Hamm


accepted his 2015
Emmy, his hair
couldnt have
looked more
polished, thanks
to celebrity stylist
Diana Schmidtke
and Mister
Pompadours
Peppermint
Pomade.
Schmidtke
applied a nickelsize dollop of the
minty pomade,
providing just the
right amount of
shine. The result:
a debonair style
worthy of Don
Draper himself.
L.B.

PHOTOGRAPHY: CORBIS (JON HAMM)

We all know how mineral deposits in water


can affect hair texture and color, but now
theres a solution. Raindrops is
a water purification system with
a six-step filtration process that
removes harmful components
iron and rust from steel piping,
chlorine and heavy metals like
copper, lead, mercury and
magnesium. Buy one for yourself
or retail it to your clients. The
easy-to-install unit replaces
your existing shower head.
raindrops901.comM.D.

DAPPER DON

THE FIX IS IN

in

BRIEF
A devoted
client using
ADH Wet

MAN MADE
Andrew Kozac, whos sold more than
15,000 hair products through Instagram,
recently created two, easy-to-use mens
pomades: ADH Dry and ADH Wet. The dry
pomade creates a beachy texture with a
matte finish, while the wet pomade gives
hair a non-greasy shine that highlights the
hairs texture. After visiting the barbershop,
these pomades help clients easily recreate
their preferred style at home. Available at
andrewdoeshair.com.K.M .

NATURAL WOMAN

Right now its all about


multiple texturessmooth
and sleek, frizzy and puff y,
lazy curls or defined curls.
The combinations are endless,
and they can give one single
cut endless styles. Texture is
what gives a look
individuality, whether
its natural or artificial,
says Geneva Cowen,
artistic director for Sam
Villa, who created this
look reminiscent of
1970s French coffee
house volume and
texture. Its sure to
make your guests
say, Oui,
oui.M.D .

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December 2015

HOT SPOT

Designed as a space to create, to


express, to see and be seen, Bed
Head Hair Space at Boxpark, a popup mall in Shoreditch, East London,
is surrounded by a mix of local and
global fashion and lifestyle brands,
galleries and eateries. TIGI Global
Creative Director Anthony Mascolo
calls it the hottest salon in the
world right now. Space Director
Gen Itoh rules the creative anarchy
of this dynamic, multi-functional
area thats part salon, part shop,
part gallery, part social hub and
part workshop. Bed Head Hair
Space gives us the opportunity
to not only cut and style hair, but
run events, create some buzz with
music and art, and look at our work
from a whole new perspective, he
says. This is about bringing Bed
Head to life.M.D .

TO WATCH Anthony Mascolo and his team in


action at Bed Head Hair Space, go to
americansalon.com/boxpark

ART & COMMERCE

OH,
PIONEERS

the

CRAFT

ATRIX introduces
its True Pioneers
Fall/Winter 2015
Trend inspired by the free
spirit of the trailblazing
pioneers who settled the
American West. With a rustic
yet refined feel, contrasting
textured waves along with
eye-catching gradient hues
come together, featuring
the new Matrix Colorinsider
Color Concentrates.
Marianne Dougherty

NATURAL LEVEL: 6
Formula A Colorinsider
5RC + Colorinsider
Red Concentrate and
Colorinsider 20-volume Oil
Cream Developer
Formula B Colorinsider
8CC+ Colorinsider
Orange Concentrate and
Colorinsider 30-volume Oil
Cream Developer
TECHNIQUE
1. Apply Formula A to the
scalp area and Formula B
through the mid-lengths
and ends to all sections
except for sections 2 and 3.
Cover with foil for control.
2. In section 2, create subsections from front to back
that are approximately oneinch wide. Apply Formula A
to the scalp area and vary
how far the formula reaches
toward the mid-lengths as
you work across section
2. Utilize a side brushing
technique to apply Formula
B to the remaining midlengths and ends.
3. Twist the sub-sections
toward the back for
control and to blend
colors. Place foil for control
where needed. Process
for 35 minutes at room
temperature.

December 2015 americansalon.com

47

the

CRAFT

NATURAL LEVEL 7
Formula A Soblur Clear + Matrix
10-volume Cream Developer
Formula B Lightinsider +
Colorinsider 20-volume Oil Cream
Developer
Formula C Colorinsider
10-volume + Colorinsider 6R and
Colorinsider Red Concentrate and
Colorinsider 10-volume Oil Cream
Developer
Formula D Colorinsider 10A +
Colorinsider 1N + Colorinsider
Blue Concentrate and
Colorinsider 10-volume Oil Cream
Developer
Formula E Color Sync SPV
+ Matrix 10-volume Cream
Developer
TECHNIQUE
1. Beginning on the right side,
take a -inch slice and place on
foil. Apply Formula B through the
entire strand staying just off of
the scalp. Leave a small slice in
between foils and repeat until the
section is complete. Repeat on
the other side and fringe sections.
Process to pale yellow or up to
50 minutes at room temperature.
Rinse thoroughly, cleanse and
dry.
2. On the pre-lightened hair in
side section take a diagonal slice.
Visually divide the foil into thirds.
Apply Formula C to the scalp
area two to four inches out. Then,
apply Formula D to the middle
section and Formula E to the
ends. Cover each slice with foil.
Do not fold.
MASTERY POINT
Meld each formula with the next
by using a side brushing technique. Continue to apply color in
the same manner to previously
lightened sections.

the

CRAFT

Jingle
Belles

This is always the busiest time of the year


for you, which is why we come bearing gifts:
four party-perfect hairstylesand not an
updo in sightthat are guaranteed to turn
heads this holiday season.
Sam Burnett, a member of the KMS Style Council, has
a few tips for creating this seasons coolest looks. The
great thing about the festive season is that it tends to
inspire people to try more adventurous styles, he says.

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December 2015

Sleek & Chic


Chignon
GET THE LOOK
1. Apply one to two pumps KMS
TAMEFRIZZ de-frizz oil to wet
hair. Comb through, parting the
hair on one side.
2. Blow dry the hair, straightening and smoothing with a
paddle brush.
3. Divide the hair into three
ponytails at the nape and secure
each with an elastic hair band.
4. Take one ponytail and divide
it into two smaller ponytails.
Twist them around each other to
create a rope effect.
5. Secure with an elastic hair
band, then roll it into a bun and
secure with a pin.
6. Do the same with the other
two ponytails and voila.

the

CRAFT

The Cool Ponytail


GET THE LOOK
1. Apply KMS ADDVOLUME
volumizing spray all over.
2. Blow dry the hair away from the
face using a medium-sized round
brush. Gently backcomb the hair.
3. Spray HAIRSTAY maximum hold
spray through the hair for long-lasting
support.
4. Using your hands, gently pull the
hair up and over the head (away from
the face), smoothing the top down as
you go and into a ponytail at the back.
Secure with an elastic hair band.

The Faux Bob


GET THE LOOK
1. Spray FREESHAPE hot flex spray
all over the hair.
2. Part the hair at the side and blow
dry using a vent brush.
3. Curl small section with a one-inch
curling tong.
4. Starting on the right side, curl the
first section away from the face.
5. Work your way around the head
in small sections until you reach the
other side.
6. Finish with the remaining top
section, curling the hair away from
the face.
7. Let the hair cool, then gently
shake it out.
8. Part the hair into three sections,
one on each side and one at the back.
9. Backcomb and roll each section up
and under, securing with a pin.
10. Gently pull at the hair to create a
loose, natural shape and finish with
FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing.

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December 2015

the

CRAFT

Crimson
Tide

ORLY 15 MINUTES OF FAME

POLISH OFF YOUR


CLIENTS WITH THE BEST
RED LACQUERS THIS
HOLIDAY SEASON.

CND VINYLUX TARTAN PUNK

If your clients skin tone is warm, a red with orange


undertones would complement their skin tone,
such as CND Vinylux Weekly polish in Tartan Punk.
If your clients skin tone is cool, a red with blue
undertones would complement their skin tone,
such as CND Vinylux Weekly polish in Decadence.
Kristina Saindon, CND education ambassador

OPI LOVE IS IN MY CARDS

MORGAN TAYLOR IM SO HOTART

For clients with


warmer skin tones,
choose a warmer
red like Love is in
My Cards.
Danielle Devine, OPI
brand ambassador

People with cool undertones


blue hues in their features
and pink and red shades
in their skin tonelook
especially good with bluebased reds, such as Essies
Shall We Chalet, With the
Band or Fishnet Stockings.
Gino Trunzo, director of
education for Essie

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December 2015

ESSIE SHALL WE CHALET?

the

CRAFT

MAKE A
FESTIVE
STATEMENT
THIS HOLIDAY
SEASON
WITH THESE
STUNNING
NAIL LOOKS
STRAIGHT
FROM THE
PROS.

CNDS NORTHERN
EXPOSURE
STEP 1. Apply a thin layer of BRISA Sculpting Gel Clear
over the nail. Do not cure.
STEP 2.Place a feather in the uncured gel smoothing
with a flat oval brush. Cure for one minute under the lamp.
Apply a thin layer of BRISA Gloss over the feather to seal.
Cure for one minute.
STEP 3. Apply a very sheer layer of SHELLAC Brand in
Nordic Lights. Cure for one minute.

OPIS STARRY NIGHT


STEP 1. On a properly
prepared nail, apply
a thin coat of OPI
GelColor Base Coat.
Cure for 30 seconds
under the light.
STEP 2. Apply two thin
coats of OPI GelColor
in Give Me Space.
Cure each coat for 30
seconds.
STEP 3. Using OPI
GelColor in Cosmo
with a Twist, apply a
small amount starting
at the cuticle, covering
approximately 1/3
of the nail. Use a
flattened, dry Golden
Point brush and gently
pull the color down to
create a fade. Cure for
30 seconds.

STEP 4. Using OPI


GeColor in Super Star
Status, apply small
dots. Do not cure.

STEP 4. Using a fan brush, feather SHELLAC Brand in


Glacial Mist around the perimeter of the entire nail. Cure
for one minute.Apply a thin layer of XPRESS5 Top Coat.
Cure for one minute. Wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol to
remove top film.

STEP 5. Using a dry


Golden Point Brush,
blend out the dots to
create a glow effect.
On one dot, use the
tip of the Golden Point
Brush to draw out the
points of a star. Cure
for 30 seconds.
STEP 6. Apply
rhinestones to the
center of each dot by
pressing them into
the GelColor residue.
Apply a thin coat of
OPI GelColor Top Coat.
Cure for 30 seconds.
Remove the gel residue
with Expert Touch Nail
Wipe and N.A.S. 99.

ESSIES WELLORNAMENTED
STEP 1. After a thin layer of Essie Base Coat, apply two
coats of Altitude Attitude.
STEP 2. Create semi-circle shapes with Apres-Chic on the
tip of each nail, varying the position and size of the circle.
STEP 3. Seal with Essie Top Coat.

the

CRAFT

class
action

Berry Bachen and DJ Riggs

shot of
At Fresh Hair Studio in Philadelphia, almost every
color client gets a Keratin Complex Vitalshot to
protect hair and intensify vibrancy. Co-owner Deb
Gavin uses it to protect blondes and fragile hair while
lightening, but its also an instant keratin booster that
repairs the bonds of the hair.
JUST

shoot
ME

Workshops at MAINENTRANCE, a New


York-based, non-branded artist education
destination, creatively blends technical skills
with trend awareness. Our workshops embrace
knowledge from a broader industryincluding
fashion, film, music, art and architecture, says
co-founder Berry Bachen, creative director
at-large for TIGI Colour. Some of their most
popular classes include: Classic Confidence
(modern updates to timeless looks), Trend
Interpretation (beauty and fashion trend insight)
and On Set Skills (styling techniques for editorial
shoots). Our aim is to inspire a think tank of
students, educators and clients interested in
combining imagination with business viability,
says co-founder DJ Riggs, whose styles have
appeared in W, French Vogue and Nylon.
MAINENTRANCE also offers photo shoot
production, as well as by-appointment color and
cuts at their chic space located adjacent to New
Yorks Ace Hotel. For more information, visit
mainentranceartists.com.K.K.

MAN POWER
CELEBRITY
COLORIST MARCO
PELUSI OFFERS
THESE TIPS FOR
GETTING MEN TO
TRY HAIR COLOR

VITAL STATISTICS

What is it? A concentrated dose of keratin


What does it do? Strengthens bonds and increases
vibrancy while coloring
How does it work? Multi-patented triple-layer repair
technology strengthens hair from the inside out.

December 2015

2/ USE DEMICOLOR Many guys simply


want to blend away a few grays to
look 10 years younger. Lowlighting
mens gray hair has huge financial
potential for colorists. It can even
start as a quick service that you add
on after the haircut.
to spend as much time in the salon
as women. Theyre accustomed to
quicker visits, so any color services
need to be done in a timely fashion.

4/ BE DIRECT Men dont need big


artistic explanations about the color
you offer them. Simply explain
what the service will do and leave
it at that.

Whats different about this product?

60 americansalon.com

afraid of hair color, but offer them


a hair color service anyway. Most of
them think they arent interested,
but in truth, more men are trying
to look fresher and younger.

3/ BE QUICK Men generally dont want

Step 1 Layer one opens the cuticle to allow for the


delivery of keratin protein without high pH, so its
gentler on the hair.
Step 2 In layer two, keratin molecules fill in the gaps
where keratin has been depleted, allowing disulfide
bonds to link and strengthen the cell membrane
complex.
Step 3 Layer three closes the cuticle to lock in
keratin molecules, increasing hairs strength and
creating a smooth, radiantly shiny finish.
It does not interfere with the lightener and leaves no
permanent coating on the hair, which can eventually
cause the hair to dry out and crack, leaving scars on
the cuticle. The result: greater color vibrancy, reduced
frizz and less breakage.M.D.

1/ TRY IT, THEYLL LIKE IT Men tend to be

5/ MAKE IT NATURAL If youre about to


His hair was lowlighted with
level 5 Natural Aloxxi Tones
applied with foils.

color a guys hair, chances are he


doesnt really want anyone else to
know about it.K.K.

the

CRAFT

A ROUNDUP
OF THE MUSTHAVE NEW
PRODUCTS
WE LIKED
THIS MONTH

BEAUTY
COUNTER
Redken has launched 10 new Shades
EQ Gloss shades, including the firstever Shades EQ Pearl, Copper Red and
Natural Warm families.

REDKEN
Shades EQ
Gloss

FARMHOUSE
Fresh Marshmallow
Melt Collection

allows colorists
to achieve a new
range of versatile
tones, as well as
instantly refresh
permanent
color.

62 americansalon.com

nourishes and
hydrates dry, rough
skin with rich shea
butter. The deliciously
scented collection
includes hand and
body creams, as well
as an all-purpose
balm.

December 2015

SEXYHAIR
Rose Elixir

is the perfect
hydrator for dry
hair and skin. This
dual hair and body
oil mist, made with
rose and almond
oil, provides
light moisture
with a soft floral
scent.

the

CRAFT

BEAUT Y COUNTER

MARCO
Pelusi Color
Moisturizing
Shampoo

CIBU
Shang High
Volumizing
Mousse

KENRA
Ultra Freeze
Spray

defines, sculpts
and freezes
styles in place,
while providing
resistance
against
humidity and a
flake-free finish.

contains green
tea, fennel and
sunflower extract
to prevent
premature color
fade and support
a healthy scalp.

adds lift,
boosts softness,
intensifies shine
and enhances
hairs natural
thickness.

PUREOLOGY SMOOTH PERFECTION SYSTEM INCLUDES


HEAT PROTECTOR, SERUM, SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER.
Even ith
ts w
s
e
r ul edible
incr ine.
sh
PUREOLOGY
Smooth
Perfection
Smoothing
Serum

AFFINAGE
5 Shades
of Grey

includes permanent
color enriched with
shea butter and
argan oil. Datem
Plus Technology
encapsulates oxygen
and the color
molecule for more
intense color.

uses the
healing power
of camellia
oil to treat
frizzy colortreated hair.

CUCCIO
NATURAL
Sea Salts

JOHNNY B.
Beard Balm

conditions beards
with natural oils,
such as shea butter,
while providing the
perfect amount of
control.

64 americansalon.com

leaves skin
silky and
smoothperfect
for exfoliating
hand-, feet- and
body-treatments.

December 2015

CRAFT
International

the

aking inspiration
from todays top
fashion designers,
Uros Mikic, Creative
Director for Matrix
Australia, created
mens styles that feel
expensive, worldly and
oh-so sexy. Mikic named
the collection Moski,
which means man in
Slovenian, to honor his
home country.

This style, inspired by Ralph Lauren,


epitomizes American youthfulness. The
textured cut has easy, cool stylingtypical of
lacrosse players from Ivy League colleges.

68 americansalon.com

December 2015

PHOTOGRAPHY: ZIGA MIHELCIC. MAKEUP: MAJA SUSNJARA. STYLING: NINA SUSNJARA.

MALE

CRAFT

International

the

MALE

Classic with an edgy touch, this


Versace-esque style is an elegant
version of James Deans lookbringing
the man quaff into the new era.

70 americansalon.com

December 2015

better

I D E A S T H AT I N S P I R E S U C C E S S

BUSINESS

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETE GOLDSTEIN

TO ENHANCE THE EXPERIENCE AT HIS FLAGSHIP


SALON AND SPA, ADAM BRODERICK COMMISSIONED
AN AMENITY-RICH, TECH-SAVVY NEW SPACE.

December 2015 americansalon.com

75

better

BUSINESS

The new nail bar at Adam


Brodericks Salon and Spa

For the past two decades, day spa pioneer Adam


Brodericks 12,000 square-foot salon and spa
in Ridgefield, CT, has been the place to go for
luxurious, quality-driven services. We always
updated every five years and did a major renovation
every 10, says Broderick, who calls his latest
floor-to-ceiling renovation a repositioning. The day
spa business has changed. There are suite rentals
now, keratin bars, blow-dry bars, waxing bars. Its
interesting to see all these spinoffs, but there is a
real need for a large, full-service salon and spa like
ours where clients can get all of their services under
one roof. While Broderick allows that some salon
owners are frightened by all of the changes going
on in our industry, he sees them as opportunities.
The concept of luxury service has changed
dramatically, he says. Our clients include some of
the wealthiest men and women in the area, but we
also see their housekeepers and nannies. Broderick
is convinced that there is a huge group of people
who are willing to splurge on beauty, but they want

to book services when its convenient for them. To


that end, the salon and spa is open seven days a
week and offers evening hours for busy executives
who want to be able to have their hair cut at seven
oclock at night. He also offers free daycare so
stay-at-home moms can come in for services during
the day. Another plus: Reservations are not always
required, adding another convenience to clients
with last-minute needs. Access is the new luxury,
he says.
For Broderick, the one-stop-shopping experience
includes a boutique that offers a variety of lash
and brow services, the new No Reservation
Brow Concept (tweezing services only), and a
well-edited selection of fashion accessories, gifts
and hot beauty brands. Women will get their hair
cut in someones kitchen if they can get a great
haircut from that person, he says, but if you can
offer a great technical experience in a beautiful,
relaxing environment with a lot of amenities, thats
a home run.Marianne Dougherty

T H E R E S A N A P P F O R T H AT

ZEEZOR
FOR Stylists, Salon Owners & Managers
WHAT ZeeZor is a powerful analytics tool displaying key sales and productivity metrics in real-time,
driving employee engagement and success through simple gamification. ZeeZor also has a desktop tool
for key administrators providing more in-depth analytics.
HOW ZeeZor extracts data from your business point of sale system (Millennium, MIKAL, SalonBiz and
Styleware)and displays it seamlessly on users smartphones.Watch and track service and retail sales,
rebook percentages, retention rates and more. Updating approximately every three minutes, see the most
accurate data for your day, week, month and year, while comparing historical figures giving growth totals
and percentages. ZeeZor frees salon owners and managers from their computers and reports, allowing
them to focus on what and who is driving their business.Kelsey Murray

76 americansalon.com

December 2015

TH E N U M B E R S

G AME

Dolce Salon & Spa reveals ways


to grow your business through
social media.

DOLCE SALON & SPA in both Chandler

and Scottsdale, AZ, is known for being


a high-end hair salon, and it owes a
great deal of its success to masterful
social media strategies. Its important
to teach your staff how to grow their
brand and the salons brand at the same
time, says Brandi Nuttall, president of
Dolce Salon & Spa.
The salon brought in hundreds
of thousands of dollars in revenue
through gift card sales on Facebook
alone. It also offers promotional pricing
on last minute openings available only
through its Facebook program called
HookUps. And the business saves
hundreds in advertising expenses by
marketing directly to both active and
potential clients, which was especially
important during the recession.
The staff is active on Instagram
because of its visual appeal to the
industry, but are sure to avoid direct

market promotions on the site. It


doesnt work because the culture of
Instagram feels spammed when they
see ads, says Reagan Jones Luck, vice
president of Dolce Salon & Spa. The
salon uses Periscope, a live broadcast
app with replay capability, to establish
themselves as experts within the
industry while connecting with other
leading salons, stylists, makeup artists
and nail techs. Were focused on
making our Instagram and Periscope
about inspiration and education, says
Jones. The open dialogue and direct
interaction keeps our finger on the
pulse of social media.
Most importantly, with all of these
social media platforms, the Dolce
team has found that staying ahead and
remaining relevant is key. Keeping in
tune with changes and being aware of
whats new and up-and-coming is an
essential key to success.Maureen Sheen

The Scottsdale location (pictured


above) holds 29 styling stations.

Turn heads and drive foot traffic with window displays that
hit all the right notes.

Keep It Seasonal

WINDOW

SHOPPING
EVEN IFYOU DONT HAVE THE BUDGET forthe
kind of high-tech window displays you see at
major department stores, you can still create
interest and excite those who pass by your
salon or spa. Lydia Sarfati, founder and CEO of
Repchage, suggests thinking of your window
display as your personalbillboard. Keep your
display balanced, clean and clutter-free, but
still have a little fun with it, says Sarfati, who
offers these tips for reating an eye-catching
window display thats sure to get attention and
increase sales.

Just as Neiman Marcus


highlights shoes for
each new season, you
want to keep it seasonal
as well. Embrace the
bold colors of each
season, incorporate bold
shapesand even try to
create a unique theme
within your display to
catch peoples attention.

Let Your Windows


Do the Talking

Be smart in what you


choose to display. You
want to create a focal
point at eye level, and
ideally you should be
showcasing products
or treatments youre
currently promoting. The
idea is to let passersby

know whats going on


inside your salon or spa,
peek their interest and
jumpstart a conversation
when they walk through
the door.

Reflect Your

Salons Culture
If you are a super
high-end salon, your
window display needs
to send that message
loud and clear to anyone
passing by. You can hire
a professional freelance
designer to take over
the job and coordinate
accordingly. However,
feel free to take on
the project yourself.
Translucent posters that
you can display on the
window and switch out

are an easy, inexpensive


solution. Another plus:
You can have one poster
facing the inside of the
salon for customers to
see. Schedule a staff
meeting, put your heads
together.

Left: A window display at a


Repchage salon. Above:
Lydia Sarfati, founder and
CEO of Repchage.

better

BUSINESS
WAVE

RUNNERS

Curly cues from Ouidad

CREATING DEFINED CURLS and prescribing the perfect regime is essential for
curly-haired clients. Clients with curly hair require a very different approach
to hair care, says Melanie J. Fahey, assistant vice president of creative/
education & new product developmentfor Ouidad. The anatomy of a curly
hair strand and cuticle growth is uniquely different to that of a straight hair
strand, calling for different cutting and styling techniques.
The company has a 30-year heritage of cutting, styling and treating that
caters specifically to curly hair individuals. The brand identified four specific
curl types and created product portfolios for each curl pattern. She also
created a comprehensive and extensive education program geared towards
providing a thorough understanding of Ouidads practices and methodology.
Here, Fahey reveals her five best tips for curly care management.

Clockwise from top: A


model with kinky curls;
Melanie J. Fahey, Ouidad
assistant vice president of
creative/education and new
product development; a
model with classic curls.

tips

FOR WORKING WITH CURLY HAIR

PROPERLY

TREAT, TREAT,

IDENTIFY CURL
PATTERN AND TYPE
This enables a client to
accurately understand
how to enhance
and care for the curl
pattern.

TREAT Curls are


thirsty and require
constant hydration and
nourishment.Ouidads
Deep Treatment is
an excellent way to
replenish the eight
amino acids and two
proteins that curls
lose over time.

EMPHASIZE
THE NEED FOR A
SEASONAL HAIRCCUT
Whether an individuals
curl requires shaping,
carving & slicing,
puzzling or removal
of split ends, its
important at the
change of a season
to have a thorough
haircut. This brings the
natural curl pattern
back to life, removing
unwanted heaviness
and cleaning up any
split ends.

78 americansalon.com

December 2015

RECOMMEND
A GO-TO STYLING
PRODUCT Whether
its the middle of
summer or the dead
of winter, this styling
product is a musthave for every curl
type. Climate Control
Heat and Humidity
Gel are designed to
work with humidity,
not against it. The
formulas unique wheat

proteins and elastin


polymers expand on
contact of moisture
and encapsulate the
curl, stopping frizz
and preserving curl
formation.

ESTABLISH A
STYLING METHOD
Whether natural
air-drying or diffusedrying, Ouidad
has designed a
proprietary Rake &
Shakemethodology
to ensure even
product distribution
throughout the hair.
This method locks
in the curl pattern
for several days, so
curls are quickly
revitalized with a
refresher spray in the
morning.M.S.

SOUND
ADVICE
Arnold Zegarelli is director of education
at Izzazu Salon, Spa and Serrata in
Pittsburgh, where hes been dispensing
sound advice to help hairdressers
become more successful for years.

THE ART OF STAYING SHARP


Staying sharp is based on good
discipline, which is doing what you
should do even though you dont feel
like doing it.

Eat Wisely Eat smaller meals more often


with the emphasis on vegetables, fruits
and greens. Potatoes, rice and peas are
loaded with simple carbohydrates; you
can eat them, but dont overdo it. Pasta
and bread are higher in carbs so limit your
intake, and if you indulge in bread, try
whole wheat.
Drink Wisely Drink as much water as you
can comfortably consume. Soft drinks
should be avoided because of the high
sugar content. Sugar, alcohol and salt
are trigger foodsthe more you have,
the more you want. They trigger the
appetite and play havoc with the pancreas
and insulin, which can cause diabetes and
fat storage.
Exercise Regularly Aerobic exercise such
as walking, jogging and so on, can help
with overall conditioning, while anaerobic
exercise like lifting weights can improve
bone density and prevent osteoporosis.
Be Flexible When you are rigid or
unbending, you are more likely to snap.
Learn to roll with the punches; it hurts a
lot less. Dont worry or fret over things
of which you have no control. Its not
what happens to you, but what happens
withinyou that gives you control.
Be Organized Eliminate the unnecessary
and organize the essential. Setting up
daily routines and habits lightens the load
on your memory and frees it up for more
important tasks.
Write It Down The shortest pen or pencil
is better than the longest memory. Use a
checklist and a daily planner.
Adapt and Adjust Nothing stays the
same. Change is neither good nor bad;
it just is, so roll with the punches.
Count Your Blessings Take pleasure in
your faith, your family, your friends and
your job. And learn from your mistakes.

HOUSE OF

CARDS

The raw images on Spoke & Weals


business cards represent both the
salons talent and sense of humor.

SPOKE & WEAL SALON co-owners


Christine Thompson and Jon Reyman
wanted their business cards to
capture the energy backstage and the
playfulness at their salons. Reymans
Los Angeles card features the interior
of that salon, while the New York card
showcases photos from backstage at
New York Fashion Week.
These cards represent the real side
of our world, says Reyman.
Backstage fashion week shots
capture a raw energy. They speak

to our entire teams skills and they


express a sense of humor. They show
that we work super hard and we
know how to laugh. Reyman and
Thompson chose Staples to print
their cards because it was the easiest,
fastest and most economical option.
They selected a matte finish on
recycled paper. On the back of each
card is the salons address, phone
number and website, along with
each stylists email, providing a more
personal touch.Kamala Kirk

At the newly
remodeled
Studio Oliver,
clients enjoy
the true
meaning of a
beauty bar.

TOTAL
TR A N S FO R M ATI O N
TUCKED AWAY IN MIDTOWN ATLANTA, Studio Oliver is definitely a hidden gem.

Opened by former Bumble and bumble education director Oliver Bacchus in


1997, the 10-station salon recently underwent a total renovation as part of its
rebranding as a full-service beauty bar.Im constantly reinventing myself,
says Bacchus. I wanted to create a quality experience and make it more about
a beauty bar than just a hair salon.Clients lie back and relax on horizontal
shampoo beds with cushioned, built-in ledges that apply controlled pressure
to sensitive points. They can also sip on complimentary beer or champagne
while browsing the beauty bar menu that offers airbrush tanning and makeup
application. The salon currently offers a weekly, in-salon education program, and
Bacchus says a second location is in the works.K.K.
December 2015 americansalon.com

79

The artist
at work

The barbershop in
St. Paul, Minnesota,
owned by Carl
Frederick Schulz
(the family lived
in the upstairs
apartment).

Charles Schulz
with his father
and son, Monte,
circa 1953

80 americansalon.com

December 2015

e gave us some of the most iconic


cartoon characters of all time, including
everyman Charlie Brown. While the
artist and his creation share the same
first name, they have a lot of other
similarities. Both were in love with
the Little Red-Haired Girl based on Schulzs real-life
obsession with someone he met while working at an art
correspondence school. She turned down his proposal
to marry another man. And while Charlie Brown has
Snoopy, Schulz had a pointer named Spike. In fact, the
first cartoon Schulz ever sold was to Ripleys Believe
It or Not, and it was of his dog Spike, who he claimed
eats pins, tacks and razor blades. He was 15 years
old. The drawing is signed Sparky. The nicknamea
reference to a racehorse named Spark Plug in the
popular comic strip, Barney Googlewas given to him
by an uncle on the day after he was born, and it stuck
his entire life.
Though he would become a household name, Schulz
never let fame go to his head but remained true to his
humble beginnings as the only child of Carl and Dena
Schulz. By all accounts, Schulz was proud of his father
for making something of himself despite the fact that
he only had a third-grade education and pitched hay
in Nebraska one summer to make enough money to go
to barber school. The family resided in an apartment
over the barbershop Carl owned on Snelling Avenue,
also known as Minnesota State Highway 51. Aside from
a stint in the Army during World War II, Schulz lived in
that apartment until he got married. In those rooms, he
and his father shared a Sunday morning ritual: reading
the funnies together. While Schulz agreed to move to
Sebastapol, California, at his first wife Joyces behest
in 1958, he may have left his heart in Minnesota. Dad
used to say that if he could go back to any time in his
life it would be when the whole family was together
in that apartment above the barbershop, says
Schulzs oldest son, Monte, a novelist and composer,

whose novel, Crossing Eden, will be published by


Fantagraphics this month.
Set in towns on the Middle Border (what we call
the Midwest today); a fictional city called Metropolis;
and a small town in East Texas, the novel covers a big
landscape of American life in the spring and summer
of 1929, when America was on the cusp of becoming
an urban nation. It is by all definitions a literary
novelbig, philosophical ideas rendered in beautifully
evocative prose that captures every nuance of life as
it unfolded all across the nation nearly a century ago:
Under hazy autumn skies we gathered field crops and
stole our neighbors gates at Halloween. Each winter
brought sled riding and Yule trees, frost and oranges.
Spring breezes filled our nostrils with the scent of
blossoms from Eden and the promise of a new earth.
By summertime while boys and old men fished through
the long hot lazy afternoons, youth courted beauty by
the river.
Schulz spent 10 years researching and
writing Crossing Eden, which is based partly
on correspondence between Schulzs maternal
grandparents, Henry and Dorothy Halverson, though
his paternal grandfather appears in the Epilogue,
which is set in 1964. My grandfather came to visit us
in Sebastapol that year and died the night he arrived,
says Schulz, who wrote that scene almost verbatim
into the novel. Hes grateful that his father was able to
read an early draft of Crossing Eden before he died,
and while he allows that his father would have been
proud of him if hed written a series of crime novels, he
says he was pleased that he chose to write a literary
novel. He told me I was raising the level of art in the
family, says Schulz, who is only half-kidding. What
his father created after all, and in four panels, was
an American treasure. A seed planted in fertile soil
sprouts prodigiously, root and vine, Schulz wrote in
the Prologue to Crossing Eden. He could have been
talking about his own family.

Carl Schulz (far left)


with a client in July, 1921.
The price list on the wall
indicates that a shave
was a quarter, a mustache
trim a nickel.

Charles M. Schulz
with his parents,
Dena and Carl

Charles M. Schulzs first


cartoona drawing of his
dog, Spikewas printed in
Ripleys Believe It or Not .

Monte
Schulz

Monte Schulzs great


American novel,
Crossing Eden, will be
published this month.

December 2015 americansalon.com

81

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