JAN UARY 2016

THE

LEADERSHIP
ISSUE

Mod
squad
PHILLIP WILSONS
MOD, MOD WORLD
FOR COLORPROOF

SPONSORED BY

GIBSON GIRL

AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY,

THE EDWARDIAN HAIRSTYLES OF THE DAY DREW INSPIRATION
FROM THE FRENCH FASHION SCENE.

popular hairstyles
during the first
decade of the
20th century were
heavily influenced
by Paris fashion.
Interestingly
enough, as
clothing got
smaller, hair got
bigger. Volume
was the theme
throughout the
period, regardless
of hair length.
From the idealized
beauty of the
Gibson girl to the
huge pompadours
worn under
enormous and
elaborate hats,
the Edwardian
era was marked
by big, full hair.

THE POMPADOUR
The signature hairstyle of the time was
the pompadour, named after the Marquise
de Pompadour, infamously known as
Louis XVs mistress in the mid-1700s.
Characterized by a high, rounded shape
which curved away from the head, hair
could be straight or have a wave or curl.
In order to achieve this voluminous shape,
hair was backcombed, or supported by
either a wire frame or a matted
pad. Most pads were made of
THE GIBSON GIRL
horse hair or fabric, and by the
The Gibson Girl, created
end of the decade, synthetic
by artist Charles Dana
hair had gained popularity
Gibson who first featured
due to advancements in
her in his illustrations for
chemistry. The popularity of
Life magazine, was the
the pompadour also fueled the
turn-of-the-century cultural
craze for hair dying. Beauty
touchstone for women.
writers emphasized that dark
Her signature style was a
hair should be worn smooth
fitted skirt and blouse with
and flat while lighter hair should
billowing sleeves, bedroom
be worn more loosely with soft
eyes and a voluminous
waves and curls, many women
mound of wispy hair pulled
tried to lighten their hair using
up into a knot on the top
natural products like herbs and
of her head. The image of
lemons or with some of the new
the Gibson girl had mass
hair dyes hitting the market.
appeal, and cut across class
and ethnic boundaries. The
upper crust associated
MARCEL WAVES
her with her charming and
The Marcel Wave was in vogue, and women had their
good-looking creator and
curling irons in the fire. From soft, fuzzy edges on the
took delight in her many
fringe to curls along the nape of the neck, this waved
adventures, while the
styling technique was far more economical and less
working-class identified
time-consuming than a permanent wave, which would
with her unconventionality,
take at least six hours to complete. Named for the French
her ability to stir up trouble
hairdresser, Francois Marcel, who invented the heated
and her reluctance to put
tongs, the style continues to make waves even today.
on airs.
E D I TO R

M AU R E E N S H E E N

Plumage

AND
R OS E T T E
H A I R O R N A M E N TS
AS D E CO R AT I O N

Just

HAIR ACCESSORIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN

THE FAST TRACK TO PRETTY HAIR.

as accessories can make or break an outfit, hair accessories have the

magical ability to transform a hairstyle. The period between 1900-1910
saw a variety of accoutrements for hair especially with the advent of
new, cheaper, easy-to-produce plastic materials to replace traditional
materials like ivory, bone and tortoiseshell. Combs
were both decorative and functional. Hair pins were
essential to keep big hairstyles in place. Ribbons
made of taffeta, tulle and velvet were woven
through hair or used to tie the ends of teenagers
braids. Feathers and plumage were ever so popular.
So much so that the National Audubon Society
established the Audubon Plumage Law in 1905
HAIR COMBS
which banned the sales of plumes from native birds
Above: The
and the import of various exotic feathers.
Empire or
Back Comb,
This decade was also dominated by the Edwardian
the Side Comb
and the Stray
aesthetic, which had a love affair with enormous
Lock Comb.
hats. The bigger the better it seemed. To support
the size and weight of headwear, hair fashions and
the way hair was dressed were affected. Pompadour
hair frames and wigs were used to help women
achieve the large styles necessary. Hats were a
part of everyday life, and the seasons affected the
choice of style. Straw hats were worn during the
summer months while heavier materials like velvet
and felt were favored during the winter. Some of
the popular styles were flat caps, cartwheel hats,
straw sailor hats and automobile bonnets especially
designed to keep the dust from ones eyes.

HAIR COMBS
Below: These stray
lock combs kept
even the shortest
of strands in place.

HAIR
ORNAMENTS
Left: Puff pins
and barrettes
were new and
in fashion.
These particular
types sold
for $2.00 per
dozen.
HAIR PINS
Below: This Frenchinfluenced pin is an
example of the new
plastic materials used to
make hair accessories.

WHEN IT COMES TO MANICURES,

NAIL ART MAY BE ALL THE RAGE TODAY, BUT THE OBSESSION
WITH A CLEAN SURFACE WAS THE TREND THEN.

idea of the modern manicure was introduced into

pop culture in the early 1900s. The emphasis during
MANICURE TABLE
these early years was on good health and proper
Below: One of the
hygiene. As a result, the look of unstained hands
original manicure
tables of the day.
with white and natural looking nails
became the dominant aesthetic,
linked to perceptions of wealth and
moral purity. Products such as nail
NAIL POWDER
bleach, tinted powders and creams,
Above: Turned
into pastes for
and stain remover for the hands
polishing up nails,
flooded the market. And, with the
these powders
would impart a
groundbreaking changes being
brilliant finish.
made in the nail care industry, the
use of metal scissors, nippers and
files became increasingly popular.
NAIL SCISSORS
It was an exciting time in the nail
Above: Not much has
world, and the end of the decade
changed since this prototype
first came into being.
NAIL
NIPPERS
saw porcelain nails first being
Above: Designed to
introduced. Unlike the acrylic, gel
be extremely sharp
and durable, these
and silk tips of today, porcelain
were the solution
OPERATORS CHAIR
when scissors were
Below: Todays model
sets were custom made and had to
not strong enough.
is far more paired down
be sized for the wearers nails. They
than this early design.
were then glued on, and could
be taken off for reuse. They were
NAIL FILE
Left: This velvet
an expensive investment, costing
cut file was flexible
enough to work
around $600 per set, but one that
around the edges
helped women achieve the style
of nails.
of the times.

HOT TOOLS ARE AN INDISPENSIBLE STEP IN OUR

BEAUTY ROUTINES. THIS IS THE DECADE THAT USHERED IN
THE BEGINNING OF OUR MODERN DAY NECESSITY.

were in vogue during the Edwardian era, and irons were on

fire, literally. Curling tongs were heated by being placed into
the fire and before being applied to hairwhich sometimes
had the undesirable potential to overheat and cause many
a singed head. In 1905,
Francois Marcel received the
first patent for an implement
called Curling-Iron to
perform the Marcel Wave,
which was all the rage. In
1906, German hairdresser Karl
Ludwig Nessler, also known
as Charles Nestle, developed
and demonstrated the first
permanent waving machine,
the precursor to the modernWAVING IRONS
day perm. Unfortunately, this
Above: The original hot
tools, the irons produced
method could take six hours
the popular Marcel wave
or more.
of the day.
This time period also saw
the advent of the hair dryer. At
the turn of the century, it was
common for men and women
to use vacuum cleaners to dry
ONDULATOR
their hair. The first hair dryer
Left: This
invention
models were not portable or
enabled
handheld. Instead, the person
women to
wave their
had to sit underneath the
own hair while
traveling.
dryer to dry their hair evenly.

HAIR DRYER
Left: The Electric
Mfg. Co. was one of
the first to design
a small hair dryer.

HAIR DRYER
Right: The Brackett
Hair Dryer was
designed to be
screwed against
the wall for use.

HAIR DRYER
Right: One of
the first electric
dryers on the
market.

IDEAL BRUSH
Below: Made
in England
of genuine
Siberian
bristles, this
air-cushioned
paddle brush
was reputed to
be one of the
most popular
at the time.

THE NEW
COLOR BOOST
SERVICE
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of color. The new recommended color refreshing service
for ingredient-conscious clients.

1 part Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE

1 part ELEMENTS Conditioner
1 part 1.9 % COLOR TOUCH Emulsion or Koleston
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Only ELEMENTS Conditioner MUST be used

Apply evenly on shampooed, towel-dried hair

Development time: up to 10 min

WELLAUSA.COM

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 Snap a photo of the end result

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January 4th March 31st, 2016 5pm EST.

the

CRAFT

Jenny Balding
perfecting a
client's style

SHAPE UP!
REDKEN FOR MEN CONSULTANT, JENNY BALDING
REVEALS HER BEST METHODS FOR USING WAXES,
POMADES, PASTES AND CLAYS.
When it comes to mens products, youve got to know
which texture, which thickness and which finish works best
for each desired effect, says Redken For Men Consultant,
Jenny Balding. Here she unlocks her favorite tips for using
every wax, pomade, paste or clay in your arsenal.

Using a pomade? Both oil-based and water-based

pomades give a high-shine finish and a neat appearance.

But you need to start with a super small amount of product
because pomades have a tendency to overload easily,
Balding advises. And, if the hair is very short at the sides
and back, you should avoid applying pomade there.

Using a wax? Try working the wax into the hair to

add more texture, says Balding. Take small sections and

72 americansalon.com

January 2016

slowly twist the product into the hair. Then gently

shake it out with your fingers. Waxes can also help
build volume. Glide a tiny dab of wax onto the roots of
the hair, and tousle the hair using a blow dryer with a
diffuser attachment.

Using a paste or clay? Apply these thicker, gummier

products to slightly damp hair for a better finish. A paste

can be hard to maneuver on dry hairit can create an
almost puffy texture, says Balding. To make applying a
paste easier, always warm up a pea-sized dollop between
your palms. I also love using a paste for taming flyways.
Just coat your fingertips and gently smooth over strays
along the part.

Working with short hair? Its always best to start

from the crown and work your way forward, says

Balding. This way youll have even product distribution
and a better end result.A.D.C.

SHAPE
SHIFTERS
WE TAKE A
LOOK AT THE
BEST WAXES,
POMADES,
PASTES AND
CLAYS ON
THE MARKET

POMADES typically have a high-shine finish

and lack the crunch factor of gels.
Redken Water Wax 03 hair shine defining pomade
gives hair the brilliant shine and control of a wax
in a water-based formula. It works to separate and
define with flexibility.
Bed Head for Men by TIGI Slick Trick combines
beeswax and premium styling ingredients to give a
firm, workable hold for easy styling, and flexibility
without the stickiness.
Healthy Sexy Hair Soy Paste features soy and
cocoa extract to deliver texture and separation as
well as hydration without grease.
PASTES are a bit thicker in consistency
than pomades and give hair a medium to very
firm hold, usually with a natural-matte finish or
just a touch of shine.
UNITE Creamy Paste is both petroleum-free
and creamy. The paste offers serious texture
and hold without stickiness or added weight.
R+Co Badlands is one part dry shampoo, one
part styling paste. Use it for adding second-day
texture and absorbing oil.
Wella Professionals EIMI Rugged Texture
gives your client's hair edgy, strong definition
with a light-matte finish.

WAXES tend to have a lighter

overall hold. In their truest form, waxes
wont harden and have a medium- to
high-shine finish.
American Crew Liquid Wax offers
the styling power of a gel with the
convenience of a liquid. Its suitable for
all hair types, even curly hair.
Rusk Gloss Wax delivers light hold
and high shine. Plus, the complex of
hydrolyzed quinoa, silk amino acids
and hydrolyzed keratin strengthens
hair and provides color protection.
LOral Techni.Art Lumi Controle gives
glossy hold and sculpted definition. It
also contains a UV filter and Vitamin E
Acetate for an added level of protection
and shine.

CLAYS range from thick to very creamy,

with a clay ingredient as the workhorse.
Evo Cassius Styling Clay contains diatomaceous earth and kaolin clay to add volume with
a natural finish.
M Mitch Matterial creates a dry, ultra-matte
finish, while thickening agents and strong
fixatives grip hair and lock it into place.
Label.m Mud Clay becomes soft and workable
in the hands to smooth away frizz and provide
a long lasting style with soft shine.M.S.
January 2016 americansalon.com

73

the

CRAFT

trend

ALERT

GET THE
LOOK
Background
Foundation Goldwell
Topchic
Retouch 20vol 40ml
5BG 20ml 4 MG 20ml
Mids/Ends (on
previously lightened
hair) 20vol 30ml 8G
30ml
Opal Effect (on level
10 blonde) Goldwell
Elumen Turquoise
SB@10 + Clear + Tq@
all; Deep Blue NA@8 +
Bl@all + NA@a2; Pink
AB@9+ Pk@all; Soft
Mint SB@10 + NA@8
+Gn@all
PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM CARSON

CHAOS
THE0RY

An opals shifting
display of iridescent
color was the
inspiration behind
the Organized Chaos
technique developed
by Leslie Cook at
Tangles Salon in
Wichita Falls, KS.
I discovered that
iridescence is created
by light waves that
interfere with one
another, says Cook,
who devised a
formula that creates
the appearance
of iridescence
with constructive
placements of light,
dark, bright and pastel
colors.M.D.

74 americansalon.com

January 2016

Pressing & Styling

COMB
24K Gold

PERFECT FOR LIFTING

AND STRAIGHTENING
LONG LASTING

STYLES

STEADY HEAT

WHILE STYLING

Follow us: @ goldnhotelite

For more information call 888.738.1212 or visit us at

www.GoldNHotHair.com

Style like a

PRO

the

CRAFT

A ROUNDUP
OF THE
MUST-HAVE
PRODUCTS
WE LIKED
THIS MONTH

BEAUTY
COUNTER

JESSICA ZENSPA
Microdermabrasion
Foot Scrub

exfoliates skin and

restores a healthy
vibrant glow with
finely ground volcanic
pumice and a fruit
acid complex of
natural alpha
hydroxy acids.

ORS CURLS
Unleashed
Coconut & Honey
Hair Milk

is enriched with
honey and coconut,
providing intense
hydration and shine
to dry locks.

ORIBE
Cte dAzur
Luminous Hair &
Body Oil

with the finest exotic and nutrient-rich ingredients. Recharge clients complexions
with The Problem Solvera powder-to-mousse mask formulated with raw cacao and
bamboo charcoal that tightens pores, heals blemishes and detoxifies skin.

REPCHAGE
C-Serum
Seaweed Filtrate

prevents
dehydration and
restores moisture
with a highly
concentrated
seaweed extract
rich in vitamins,
minerals, amino
acids and trace
elements.

combines the sweet

scent of Calabrian
bergamot, white
butterfly jasmine
and sandalwood
with a moisturizing
blend of sweet
almond, meadow
foam and starflower
oils that condition
hair and skin.

76 americansalon.com

MAY LINDSTROM SKIN is a luxury line of cleansers, exfoliators and masques infused

January 2016

LABEL. M
Diamond
Dust Body
Lotion delivers

intense moisture
and radiant
shimmer with
pearl, black and
white diamond
dust particles,
champagne and
white rose
petal oil.

 Last over 2000 hours

Most reliable Italian
made AC Motor
Ionic & Ceramic technology
Comes in 4 colors
black, red, pink and green

Twinturbo 3800
Model 330-A

turbopowerinc.com

sales@turbopowerinc.com

888.715.6100 718.961.0767

the

CRAFT
LATIN OIL
Chia Oil Hair
Treatment

nourishes, repairs
and reduces frizz
with a potent blend
of omega fatty acids
and antioxidants.
It also maintains
long-lasting color
and protects hair
during the bleaching
process.

BEAUT Y COUNTER

HBL
Treatment Oil

WELLA EIMI
Sugar Lift

is a rich, flexible
spray infused
with sugar that
boosts shine
and provides
voluminous
texture that is
soft to the touch.

REDUCE FRIZZ, BOOST SHINE,

DEFINE CURLS, DRY HAIR FASTER.

is formulated with
a color-safe blend
of premium oils
that reduce drying
time, eliminate
frizz, lock in
moisture and block
out humidity.

New allic
met
blue olor
c

ANDIS
SpeedMaster
Clipper and
PivotPro Trimmer

LORAL
PROFESSIONNEL
Techni.Art
Dual Stylers
Bouncy & Tender

defines curls and

keeps them smooth
for up to 72 hours
with Intra-Cylane
Gel, a proprietary
complex that
provides elasticity
and nourishment.

B3 BRAZILIAN
Bond Builder
Color Care
Shampoo

reinforces hair with

bond-building
technology,
making locks
more resistant to
breakage during
each wash.

is now available in
bold metallic blue and
features an improved
blade design. The
clippers adjustable
stainless-steel blade
is great for fading
and tapering, while
the trimmers closecutting stainless steel
T-blade is perfect for
those last-minute
touch-ups.

SCRUPLES
Total Integrity Ultra
Rich Conditioner

contains a revitalizing
argan-, keratin-,
quinoa-, and
panthenol-formula
that moisturizes
and rejuvenates
damaged hair, while
green tea extract
and antioxidantrich ginger defend
against environmental
damage.

BABYLISS PRO
Rapido

dries hair faster,

works for up
to 5,000 hours
with exceptional
power, and is as
lightweight as a
soda can.

PAUL MITCHELL
Express Ion
Style Wand

lets clients
smooth hair, add
body or create
flips, curls and
waves at home.

better

I D E A S T H AT I N S P I R E S U C C E S S

BUSINESS

COPY TK HERE CAPTION COPY TKT OPENER COPY

COPY TK HERE CAPTION COPY TKT OPENER COPY

PHOTOTOGRAPHY: KELLY FITZGERALD

GILA RT AVEDA SALON IN SAN DIEGO, OFFERS

COPY TK HERE CAPTION COPY TKT OPENER COPY
BENCHMARKS FOR SUCCESS THAT CAN HELP YOU
BECOME MORE PROFITABLE.

January 2016 americansalon.com

81

better

BUSINESS

The makeup bar and

Aveda product line at
Gila Rt Aveda Salon.

CO NTI N U I N G

EDUC ATION
Keri Davis-Duffy, owner of
Gila Rt Aveda Salon with
three locations in San Diego,
teaches other salon owners
how to maximize their
business potential.

ERI DAVIS-DUFFY KNOWS a thing or two about running a successful business.

In fact, for the past 11 years she has been developing and teaching courses for
Aveda Business Collegea program that provides advanced business training
for salon and spa owners and their managers. Davis-Duffy practices what she
preaches in her curriculum, which includes courses like Culture and Leadership,
Effective Team Meetings and Maximize Your Front Desk. Benchmarking for
Success is the required two-day prerequisite course and is among Davis-Duffys
favorites. Its a basic class around what our industry benchmarks are, where one
is in relation to those benchmarks, and what systems you can integrate into your
business so you can attain a profit of 10 percent or more, she says. Benchmarking
for Team Members is the follow-up class that helps salon owners learn how to
communicate with their teams. Courses are offered year-round throughout the
country, and any salon owner can sign up via the website; currently, a web-based
program is in development. Davis-Duffy shared a few tips with us for running a
more successful salon business.Kamala Kirk

tips for salon success

CONSISTENT CULTURE
Without a strong work
culture, youre going to
have a hard time retaining
staff. People want to work
in a positive, growing
environment. You either
create your culture as
leaders or your culture will
be created for you.

DIFFERENT AREAS
OF GROWTH There are
opportunities for our staff
to assist our creative and

82 americansalon.com

January 2016

photo shoot team, join

our outreach program
and become educational
directors. This keeps them
motivated and is a big part
of retaining staff.

DAILY MANAGEMENT
INVOLVEMENT We look
at our management team
as coaches who guide the
team and see potential.
By recognizing areas of
opportunity for staff, were
able to keep our finger on
the pulse of whats going on.

STRONG EDUCATIONAL
PROGRAM We offer an
in-salon training program
to assess and educate our
staff. We want them to
have the Gila Rut stamp
of approval before they
interact with clients to
ensure that they return.

GOOD TIMES Celebrate

success and always have
funthis contributes to a
positive salon atmosphere
for staff and clients.

C OMING

SO O N

I LOVE TO STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD

C OL OR

C R AV I N G

Dare to be different. Color Craving is designed for those who embrace and
celebrate their individuality. Let your creativity fow with eight beautiful pastel
and vivid fashion shades. Perfect for an in-salon color service and at-home
maintenance.
Available January 2016
Contact your local Keune distributor to pre-order
WWW.KEUNE.COM/NA

better

BUSINESS
RISING STARS OF
BUTTERFLY CIRCUS

SOCIAL

B U T T E R F LI E S

INSTAGRAM HANDLE

@theconfessions
ofahairstylist
REAL NAME

Butterfly Circus has taken off in the past nine months,

and its changing the way we think about education.

AVID THURSTON IS NOT A HAIRDRESSER; his wife Alexis is. Together,

Jenny Strebe

HAILS FROM Arizona

David Thurston (third
from right) and wife
Alexis (second from
left) with the stars of
Butterfly Circus

the couple run Butterfly Loft Salon in Los Angeles, where they began
hosting intimate gatherings called Butterfly Circus for a small group of
hairdressers (no more than 80) about nine months ago. Since then, theyve
hosted similar events in Las Vegas, San Francisco and New York City. Instead of one instructor
droning on for two hours, we have six of them present 30-minute segments on everything from
braiding to balayage, says Thurston, who used Instagram to get the word out. All of the people
on tap to appear at Butterfly Circus announce their participation on Instagram at the same time,
creating an audience of half a million to a million followers instantly. The events sell out in minutes.
Now heres where things get interesting. All of the instructors have built followings on social media
and offer pure education. None of it is coming from any brand or manufacturer, says Thurston,
who prefers to remain independent, at least for now, because he knows that his point of difference
is unique. Its coming from the beauty community, not the beauty industry, he says. And yes, there
is a difference. This is a new model for education, he says. Thurston prefers to work with people
who are coachable, and he recruits instructors from all over the country. What he finds is that a lot
of these people are very serious about what they do, but they havent been given an opportunity by
the beauty industry. Instead, they took to Instagram or YouTube to build a following. Certainly not
everyone with a YouTube channel is the next Sam Villa, and thats where Thurston excels, separating
the wheat from the chaff so to speak. My job is to find out whos a good educator, he says, and
then make them better educators or help them put on better shows. A lot of that one-on-one
instruction is accomplished through GoToMeeting.com video chats. Thurston realizes that he has
a big target on his back and that a lot of people are watching to see if he fails, so he instructs his
team to act professional before, during and, more important, after each event when they mingle
with the attendees, even posing for selfies. The steak is the education, says Thurston. The sizzle
is the opportunity to mingle with the people they follow on Instagram. This month Butterfly Circus
will be taking its show on the road and setting up shop at Front Row 2016, a four-day multi-media
extravaganza hosted by Luxury Brand Partners in Miami. This is a model thats wide open for
anything. All we can do is sit back, watch and wait to see what happens.M.D.

T H E R E S A N A P P F O R T H AT

WHAT LinkedIn is a business-oriented social networking platform with more than

300 million followers globally, including what appears to a quickly growing audience of
beauty professionals. HOW Stay up to date with your own network; search for and connect
with related professionals, companies and groups; follow influencers; share and read articles
from a vast library of content.Kelsey Murray

84 americansalon.com

January 2016

SPECIALTY Boho-style,
messy braids
INSTAGRAM HANDLE

@hairgod_zito

REAL NAME Rickey Zito

HAILS FROM New Orleans
SPECIALTY Vivid colors
INSTAGRAM HANDLE

@lalasupdos
REAL NAME

Laura Kaszoni
HAILS FROM California
SPECIALTY Braiding

and updos

INSTAGRAM HANDLE

@jaywesleyolson
REAL NAME

Jay Wesley Olson

HAILS FROM Arizona
SPECIALTY Balayage

SOUND ADVICE
Arnold Zegarelli is Director of
Education at Izzazu Salon Spa and
Serrata in Pittsburgh where hes
been dispensing sound advice to
help hairdressers become more
successful for years.

The Art of Active Listening

Listening effectively is a skill that can
be taken to an art form when it is done
sincerely.

Focus on the Speaker

Maintain good eye contact with an appropriate
expressioninterest, empathy, enthusiasmon
your face.

Lean In
When you lean slightly toward the speaker,
it displays sincerity and interest.
Nod Your Head Accordingly
The speaker will be watching your body
language for feedback. When you nod your
head, it shows that you are listening and
not just hearing.

S O CI A L

STUDIES
WHAT A passionate panel
discussion on why social
media matters and how
to make the most of a
professional presence on
Instagram.

@lo_wheelhouse:
Salon owner and
hairdresser, Lauren
Wheeler

@passionsquared:
Coach, mentor and
digital thought
leader, Nina Kovner

@glamiris: Salon
owner, colorist
and educator, Iris
Smith

@sugarskulls:
Barber
extraordinaire,
Carlos Ramos

WHERE ISSE Long Beach,

Long Beach, CA
WHEN January 31, 2016,
2 to 3:30 p.m.
MODERATOR American
Salons VP of Digital,
Gordon Miller (@gordnm).
The event is free with show
admission. For details,
visit probeauty.org/isselb.
Panelists include the five
social media superstars
shown here:

@andrewdoeshair:
Mens groomer,
educator and
product creator,
Andrew Kozak

Make Occasional Comments

Words like really or go on or thats
interesting or Im following you encourage
the speaker to continue speaking. By sincerely
listening, you may learn something that will
help you become a better conversationalist.

Paraphrase

PHOTOGRAPHY: LARS KLOVE (HOUSE OF CARDS)

Occasionally repeat to the person in your

own words what you just heard them say. For
example, if they say, I just want a trim, you
might respond, What Im hearing you say is
that you dont want much cut off, is that right?
When you paraphrase, you are reinforcing the
speakers meaning by clarifying it.

Listen to What They Mean,

Not Just What They Say
Listening actively for pauses and the emphasis
they place on different words or phrases is
challenging, but it is also fascinating because
you are in control of your thoughts and the
situation just by uttering and listening.

Pause Before You Speak

This one really takes practice and discipline
because you will be dying to speak and give
your feedback, but I encourage you to wait a
few seconds before you start to make
sure they are really ready to quit talking. You
will be surprised how many times you would
have stepped on their lines if you started
talking too soon.

85 americansalon.com

January 2016

Georgia Rews business cards pay homage to

her grandfather, a member of the Freemasons.

HOUSE OF

C ARDS

As a child, Georgia Rew lived with her grandparents and

was extremely close to her grandfather, who belonged
to the Masonsone of the oldest fraternal organizations
in the worldfor 60 years. Rew was so inspired by him
and the family values she grew up withhonor, integrity,
truthfulness and self-control, which are also ones that
have been espoused by Masons for centuriesthat when
she opened The Pretty Pretty Collective in Los Angeles
and San Francisco, she wanted her business
cards to include a reference to the square and
compasses, the single most identifiable symbol
of Freemasonry. To that end, Rew arranged
the scissors and straight razor on her card in a
configuration that mimicked the emblem.
The design also represents the people who
who are fortunate enough to be an integral
part of her salon and reminds Rew that she is a
worker among workers. The clean lines, black
background and gold letters on the card reflect
the classic, beautiful interior of the salons,
which include a gold receptionists throne and
black walls. The salon name, address, website
and phone number are listed on the back of the
card, which makes it easy for clients to book
appointments.K.K.

ONE THING THATS CONSTANT IS CHANGE.

COMPANIES EVOLVE, NEW TECHNOLOGY
SHAKES THINGS UP, PEOPLE IN POSITIONS OF
POWER RESIGN, RETIRE OR ARE REPLACED.
EDITOR IN CHIEF MARIANNE DOUGHERTY
TALKED TO SOME INDUSTRY LEADERS WHO
ARE BREAKING NEW GROUND, STEERING
THEIR RESPECTIVE SHIPS INTO UNCHARTED
WATERS OR RESPONDING TO SEISMIC
CULTURAL SHIFTS THAT WILL IMPACT THE
WAY WE DO BUSINESS FOR YEARS TO COME.

FRONTIERS

at Parenty is President of the

UNDERSTANDING
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR

Pat Parenty
President, Professional Products
Division, LOral USA

86 americansalon.com

January 2016

Professional Products Division,

LOral USA, which means hes
responsible for all 11 brands,
including Redken, Pureology, Matrix and
LOral Professionnel, plus SalonCentric,
one of the largest wholesale and beauty
supply distributors in the United States.
The strategy for vertical integration
into distribution has helped us in our
ability to control our business from the
beginning of an idea to the execution
at the salon level, he says. Because
of SalonCentric, we now have insight
directly into the relationship we have by
brand and distribution straight into the
salon and on to the consumer. Parenty
sees the market today as being more
complicated and more competitive than
ever before. With the channels blurring,
its crucial that salon owners understand
consumer behavior, which is enabled
by technology thats moving so fast
its hard to keep up. Our business is
fragmented, he says. Its made up of
200,000 independent business people.
Being able to leverage the insights
coming from how consumers are
interacting with new technologies and
how theyre applying that to what they
buy is up to us. The challenge for any
manufacturer of professional products,
he believes, is to help salons know what
actions to take in order to keep up. We

have a huge responsibility to nurture

the professional beauty industry,
he says. We grow when it grows.

Consumers today arent

just going to the salon to
get their hair cut. They
want a totally immersive
experience with advice about
everything from cut and color
to skincare, makeup, even
fashion.Pat Parenty

Transferring business information to

the salon owner is paramount for the
Professional Products Division, which
offers a suite of tools, including the
Summit Salon Program, as well as
retailing, merchandising and rebooking
processes. Lately the emphasis has
been on helping salons understand the
importance of using social media to
market goods and services. Research
shows that 80 percent of consumers
now research online before they buy
anything, and no one lets their fingers
do the walking through the Yellow

Pages anymore. If you dont offer

online booking or are not using social
media, you will not be found. Thats
where your clients are looking for you,
says Parenty, who is convinced that the
digital experience the salon is providing
is part of the brick-and-mortar. How
theyre communicating to the consumer,
whether theyre in the chair, on
Facebook or on their website reading a
blog, is a 360-degree experience. It all
fits together.

FIND THE RIGHT

PARTNER

ory Couts is convinced that

the most important thing he did
after becoming Global President,
Kao Salon Division (Goldwell/
KMS California) in 2012 was to create a
simple mantra: Partner with the right
salons. We have a huge portfolio
of products and business-building
programs, says Couts, who has a
very clear goal once a partnership has
been established: to provide a salon
everything it needs to succeed. Were
trying to design brands that are very
different from each other, yet can still
exist comfortably in the same salon, he
says. Both Goldwell and KMS California
attract different kinds of consumers,
but its important for salons to have
options available for their clients.
Everything the company makes, from
color to keratin treatments to retail
products, is meant to work in tandem.
We need salons to have more bums
in chairs as Nick Arrojo would say, to
build their business in any way they can,
from upgrading services to using social
media, says Couts, who is crystal clear
about the fact that if his company does
not help salons grow their businesses, it
will lose.

Cory Couts
Global President Kao Salon Division

Most people think a great leader is the person with all

the answers, but I think its the person who asks the most
questions.Cory Couts
As the leader of an organization as
big as Kao Salon Division, Couts admits
that he had to unlearn being a control
freak and start asking questions of
his team. So when someone comes
to him with a new idea, he asks them
if its on time, if its on strategy and
if its on budget. He saves the most
important question for last: Have we
asked hairdressers about it? Part of
the companys rebranding a couple
of years ago was its new tagline: We
Think Stylist. Were in an emotional
business where habits are difficult
to change, says Couts, who should
know. From 1990 to 1995, he managed
a 5,000-square-foot salon in San

Francisco, and its that experience that

helped shape his approach to running
a global company. Its hard to get
stylists to think about doing a service
differently than the way theyve always
done it. We know that they dont always
have enough space in the dispensary to
accommodate a new product. And we
also know the magic of a Saturday when
every chair is full and the blow dryers
are humming and the phone is ringing.
Its that magic that Couts hopes to
duplicate every day for salon owners in
the Goldwell/KMS California network.

January 2016 americansalon.com

87

Trevor Attenborough

President & General Manager, Kao

USA, Salon Division North America

AT YOUR SERVICE

hile it has long been

embraced by serious colorists,
Goldwell has flown under
the radar in the United
States for a long time. Now that hes
been promoted to President & General
Manager of Kao USA, Salon Division
North America, Trevor Attenborough
would like to change all that. In his new
position, Attenborough will assume
leadership responsibility for the Kao
Salon Canadian business in addition to
his U.S. responsibilities. Were intending
to make Goldwell a market leader in
North America, he says. If anything, his
back story makes him uniquely qualified
to do just that. Its probably safe to
say that hes the only beauty industry

88 americansalon.com

January 2016

executive who started college studying

aerospace engineering. Halfway
through the program, I realized that the
engineering piece of aerospace was less
interesting to me than the concept and
design of aircraft, says Attenborough,
who enrolled at the Art Center College
of Design in Pasadena, CA, which
offers programs in a wide variety of art
and design fields. At the time it also
produced half of the working automobile
designers in the world.
While still a student, Attenborough
met someone at Lanza, who hired him
to do packaging and advertising. By
January, 1988, he was working full-time
for the company as Advertising Manager,
though he remembers spending his
days doing paste-up. By 1994 when he
left Lanza to become Brand Manager
at Wella, Attenborough had come
to the realization that because of his

Were intending to make

Goldwell a market leader.
Its our turn in the sun.
Trevor Attenborough

background in math, engineering and

graphic design, he was uniquely qualified
to have a successful career in marketing
in our industry. In a classic brand
management role, says Attenborough,
hed be responsible for research, analytics
and numbers; creative would be handled
by an agency. For most entrepreneurial
professional beauty companies, however,
agencies are too expensive, which is why
many of them have in-house creative
departments. Salon marketers typically
rely less on research and analytics, which
isnt as robust in our industry, and more
on gut instincts or street smarts because
the cost of entry in our business is so low
compared to launching a product in the
Mass or Prestige sectors. Attenborough
learned a lot about how Mass operates
when he was brand manager for VO5
while working for Alberto Culver in 1997.
Thats also when he discovered that his
singular set of skills was better suited
for the professional beauty industry.
It was more fulfilling for me to have
the combination of creativity and
number crunching, says Attenborough,
who was hired by Goldwell as Vice
President of Marketing in 2009 and has
consistently moved up the ladder. I
think that hairdressers can sense what
customers want before they even realize
it themselves, he says. Thats why focus
groups are often very misleading in our
industry. Currently, Attenboroughs
street smarts, honed from nearly 20 years
in the business, tells him that the most
important thing his company can do is
partner with salons that have a strong eye
toward growth and help them grow their
service business since thats where 90
percent of their revenue comes from. Its
easy to say and hard to do, he says. Still,
he remains confident that this strategy is
Goldwells unique point of difference in
an increasingly competitive marketplace
and that when their salon partners do
succeed, we earn the right to grow with
them. After all, a rising tide lifts all boats.

ITS A FAMILY
AFFAIR

lisa Fischer had worked for

LOral Professionnel, Logics,
Matrix, then Redken/Pureology,
since 2002, and she loved her job
and was very happy. Then last year TIGI
made her an offer she couldnt refuse,
and she jumped ship to become General
Manager TIGI Americas (United States,
Canada and Latin America). TIGI was
the brand I always admiredcolloquial
copy, great packaging, a very distinct
image and way of talking to stylists and
consumers that wasnt available to me
before. TIGI knows who it is, says Fischer,
who was also anxious to partner with
Anthony Mascolo and help move TIGI
into the future. Still, it was also important
to her that Toni&Guy was connected to
the brand. Tom Monaghan, Worldwide
President, TIGI, had already re-established
a relationship with Bruno Mascolo, CEO
of Toni&Guy USA, who appeared onstage
with his brother Anthony at TIGI World
Release 2015. Relations between TIGI and
Toni&Guy had been fragile at best since
Unilever bought the TIGI professional hair
product business in 2009. But as Fischer
points out, TIGI was born out of Toni&Guy.
TIGI was created because Anthony
couldnt find the products he needed
to create the looks he wanted to create.
Toni&Guy exclusively uses TIGI, she says.
Every Toni&Guy student who leaves
those schools is a disciple of TIGI. These
are loyal users I can use as educators and
the future of not only the industry but our
brand. What could be better than that?
Education is Fischers number one
priority. In her first few months on the
job, Fischer took the time to listen to
people, especially the educators. I
put Thomas Osborn in a new position
immediately, she says. Hes head of
education for the Americas as well
creative director for TIGI. Osborn had
always worked with Anthony on the
collections, but Fischer knew she needed
a role model for all the educators in
the U.S., Canada and Latin America
and to lead the team into the future.

Our business has evolved significantly

over the last year, and we also needed
someone to manage field education so I
also created a role to lead field education
and appointed Julie Lindstrom. TIGI
has also re-established their partnership
with BSG, which gives the company
access to a wider range of hairdressers
than before. Our direct sales team
offers a distinct point of difference and
level of support, espeically for color,
says Fischer. And we will continue to
sell direct, but now that were back with
Cosmoprof, which has over 1,000 stores,
many more stylists can access our hair
color and styling products. TIGI also
has a significant chain salon business.
Fantastic Sams is my number one color
customer, says Fischer, who has worked

very hard to solidify that partnership as

well as ones the company has developed
with Salon Innovations, Regis, JCPenney,
Beauty Brands and Ulta.
Fischers challenge as she sees it is
to make sure that TIGI is viable well
into the future. That means raising the
profile of Catwalk and S Factor so that
they become as synonymous with TIGI
as Bed Head and continuing the growth
of Copyright Colour. Still, shes stoked
by the fact that we still have the same
family-owned values at TIGI plus the
big company opportunities and support
that Unilever provides. Its the best of
both worlds.

You have to have a passion and a love for what you do in

this industry, and no one has that more than me.Elisa Fischer

Elisa Fischer
General Manager TIGI Americas
January 2016 americansalon.com

89

CELEBRITY
PARTNERSHIPS

hen your father is an

industry icon, how do you

make your mark when he
hands over the reins? If youre
Basim Shami, who was named CEO of
Farouk Systems, the company his father
founded in 1986, you think out of the
box. Case in point: Kardashian Beauty, a
complete line of professional hair styling
products, tools and chic accessories
that launched in spring, 2015. We were
seeking celebrity partnerships with
people who are not only popular but
are also known for their trend-setting
hairstyles, Shami says. The Kardashians
fit perfectly as theyre famous for
changing their look and having their
hairstyles duplicated by women and
teens everywhere. After a creative
meeting with sisters Kourtney and
KimThey actually contacted us, he
saysShami developed a line with key
ingredients, including black seed oil. The
line has been an overwhelming success.
We are currently in 27 countries and
growing, says Shami, who points out
that the line has received several major
beauty awards and 30 billion press

Basim Shami

CEO Farouk Systems

impressions. Currently the company is

working on expanding the line with a
whole new set of products and tools.
At the companys global conference
in Cancun, Mexico this summer, Shami
announced his latest venture: a mens
line of grooming products developed
for Esquire magazine thats slated
for release late in 2016. We did a
consumer gap analysis and found that
this category was a missing component
in our business, Shami says. So we
reached out to Esquire because we are
fans of their prestigious magazine and
felt they would be the best partner to
reach the male audience. The products
will be distributed through prestige
professional salons only and will be
promoted in all Hearst magazines,
including Esquire. Mens hair care is
one of the fastest growing areas in

For a long time, I have

been researching and
monitoring how the consumer
interacts with celebrities.
They truly want to know their
beauty secrets and how they
achieve their look.Basim Shami
our business, and we want to be at the
forefront creating a line perfect for their
needs and style changes, says Shami,
who is working on numerous other
licensing deals. For now, we are still in
negotiations, so its too early to make
any announcements, he says, but stay
tuned as we will be making a lot of news
in the coming months.

REINVENTION AFTER ACQUISITION

ate last year, Coty announced a

Sylvie Moreau
President, Coty
Professional
Beauty Division

90 americansalon.com

January 2016

new organizational structure and

the future leadership team for
the company, both of which will
become effective subject to completion
of Cotys merger with the Proctor &
Gamble Companys fine fragrance,
color cosmetics, salon professional
and hair color and styling businesses.
Sylvie Moreau, current Executive Vice
President of Wella, the salon division of
P&G, was named president of its future

Coty Professional Beauty Division,

which will include Wella Professional
and OPI. She has the right leadership
skills, passion for the industry and
a strong vision required to lead the
Coty Professional organization and its
brands, said Bart Becht, Coty Chairman
and Interim CEO. Sal Mauceri, CEO,
Wella North America, also announced
his support. Sylvies deep salon
experience makes her a great leader
for the future organization, he said.
Her passion for Wella, its people and
the salon industry is well-known in
North America. The merger with Coty
is expected to close in the second

SLOW AND
STEADY

hen Jason Yates was

brought into John Paul

Mitchell Systems as Vice
President of Marketing in
2012, he took his time before making
any major decisions. I think its nave
for people to come into a company
and try to change too much too soon,
he says. The changes Ive made have
been slow and subtle. When he began
looking for opportunities to enter
markets where the company could
expand its footprint in the professional
space, Yates saw an opportunity in the
appliance sector. Its business we didnt
have before, he says, and I thought
it was an opportunity for us to be
innovative and lead.
To that end, Yates decided to make
state-of-the-art tools in an everchanging array of new colors that salon
owners could retail to their clients at a
lower price point in order to compete

half of 2016, at which time Moreaus

appointment will become effective. I
am honored and delighted to be the
future leader of Coty Professional,
home to the worlds leading salon
mega-brands, Wella and OPI, says
Moreau. Both Wella and OPI are iconic
leaders in the salon channel, with a
fully complementary portfolio and
passionate, expert organizations eager
to win in our industry. We are both
fueled by innovation, education and
creativity as well as the desire to delight
our salon professional partners.

with big box retailers. Their clients

are going to buy their blow dryers
somewhere, Yates says. Why not buy
them at the salon instead of Target? The
company offers a 360-degree marketing
approach with social media, education,
PR, point of purchase displays at the
salon, and promotional material on how
to use the tool to get the look.
Because hes a hairdresser himself
Yates began as an apprentice at John
English, a chain of salons in London in
1989he understands how hairdressers
think. Most of the tools on the market
take a my ceramics better than yours
approach, he says. I dont think
hairdressers understand all those
marketing terms. When we launched
Neuro, a secondary brand positioned as
a professional tool, we took an x-ray of
the product and put it on the box. We
wanted hairdressers to see that whats
inside has a unique job. Thats the first
thing we launched under my leadership
that was major.
What Yates loves about Paul Mitchell
is the companys commitment to the
professional hairdresser. We have an

Our focus is on the hairdresser trying to make a living, so

we want them to be able to compete with big box retailers.

Both Wella and OPI are

iconic leaders in the
salon channel with a fully
complimentary portfolio
and passionate, expert
organizations eager to win in
our industry.Sylvie Moreau

Jason Yates

Vice President of Marketing,

John Paul Mitchell Systems

ongoing strategy to remain fresh and

innovative, says Yates, who thinks
its important to offer a wide range
of products. Want affordable luxury?
Theres the classic black and white
line. Is natural your thing? Try Tea Tree.
Looking for a premium, luxury brand?
Choose Marula Oil or Awapuhi Wild
Ginger. Still, when all is said and done,
there is no discounting the importance
of the Paul Mitchell schools. Weve
got 115 of them graduating 16,000
future professionals a year, Yates
says. Theyre the lifes blood of our
business. Hes got that right.

Jason Yates
January 2016 americansalon.com

91

F O L LOW T H E L E A D E R
Our list of industry trailblazers, who got there first

Malibu C was the first company to use active vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
in products for the hair and scalp. Whats more, Tom Porter and his wife
Deb have been pioneers in the wellness treatment category since they
founded the company in 1985. One of their signature productsthe
Malibu MakeOveris a two-step treatment containing a patented blend
of antioxidant vitamin crystals that removes chlorine and mineral deposits,
dramatically reconstructing and rebuilding hair.

Hair care visionary Jim Markham

discovered baobab, a superfruit packed with
vitamin C on a trip to Africa with his wife
Cheryl and incorporated the breakthrough
ingredient into his Baobab Heal and Repair
line for ColorProof Evolved Color Care. The
products combine the powerful benefits of
baobab with proprietary technology to repair
and strengthen damaged hair.

Redken created a
whole new category
when it introduced
Shades EQ, the first
demi-permanent,
ammonia-free
hair color with the
legendary tagline,
The hair color
that thinks its a
conditioner.

Fromm, a leading marketer of beauty

essentials, was founded as the Illinois
Razor Strop Company by James Simon in
1907. The company continues to develop
innovative tools, like a new round brush
that incorporates copper into the design
for temperature control, even heat
distribution and faster drying time.

Denman patented the D3 in

1938, and it quickly became
known as the hairdressers
hairbrush. Its popularity
soared in the 1960s when Vidal
Sassoon and his team began
using it to blow dry their
signature hairstyles. Even now,
no Sassoon-trained hairdresser
uses anything else.

92 americansalon.com

January 2016

Brazilian Blowout became a household

word when West Hollywood hairstylists
Britney Huinker and Devin Semler
developed their own amino acid smoothing
treatment in 2008 after meeting a Brazilian
hairdresser at a conference. The product
was able to penetrate the cuticle and
fill in damaged areas, eliminating frizz even
on the kinkiest, curliest hair, and creating a
whole new service category in the process.

Aveda introduced
the beauty industry
to aromatherapy
in 1978 when Horst
Rechelbacher
pioneered the use of
high-performance,
plant-based hair, skin
and body products
based on the
principals of Ayurveda
and started a holistic
beauty trend.

Andis introduced
the Master Clipper
in 1922, and it
remains one of
the companys
most popular
models. Today
Andis products
are available in 90
countries around
the world.

John Harms, founder and

CEO of Millennium Systems
International, created the
first appointment book
module for the beauty
industry in 1994. Today
salons in 36 countries use
his business management
software.

CND Shellac Power Polish

was a real game-changer.
Offering zero dry time and
14 days of chip-free wear,
it ushered in a gel polish
craze that shows no sign of
slowing down.

Madame C.J. Walker was

Wahl has been a leader in

the first American woman to

become a self-made millionaire.
The daughter of sharecroppers
began selling her Wonderful
Hair Grower (a healing scalp
formula) in 1906. After building
her company, Walker helped
black women and communities
become economically
independent.

the professional grooming

category since 1919 when
Leo J. Wahl applied for a
patent on his electromagnetic
hair clipper. Hed been
experimenting with a vibrating
electromagnetic motor since
1911 when he was a junior in
high school.

Skin care icon Lydia Sarfati introduced seaweedbased skin care to the American market in 1980
when she launched Repchage. We all come
from the sea and have in our veins the same
percentage of salt that there is in the ocean,
Sarfati says. This wonderful salt is what keeps
our skin nicely hydrated. Currently, Repchage
organically harvests 12 different species of
seaweed from the coast of France.

Reuzel, the mens grooming

pomade from Schorem
barbers Leen and Bertus, a.k.a.
Hollands scumbag barbers of
Rotterdam, is coming to the
U.S. thanks to Laurence Hegarty,
co-founder of American Crew,
who has made it his mission to
bring the brand to the states.
A complete line of mens
grooming essentials is already
in the works.

Ouidad opened the worlds first hair salon exclusively for curlyhaired clients in New York City in 1984. Everyonefrom beauty
editors and bankerstold me the idea was crazy, says Ouidad,
who ignored the naysayers and not only opened the salon but
also launched her own line of products for women whose hair is
anything but stick straight.

January 2016 americansalon.com

93

WELLAUSA.COM

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RUCE GELB WAS THREE years old when his parents

took him to Paris in 1930. I remember it extremely
well, says Gelb, who has a photo of himself with
the captain of the SS Paris. The family had gone to France in hopes
of finding a business opportunityperhaps importing a novelty cosmetic or
perfumethat would prove lucrative enough to recoup the losses theyd suffered
during the Depression. My father was a man of infinite imagination, says Gelb,
but it was his mother who stumbled across a
product that not only secured their financial
future, but also triggered a paradigm shift in
professional beauty. That product was Clairol.
We lived in Paris for nine months, and my
mother liked to walk on the Champs-Elyses
where she noticed that the women looked
a lot younger than they did back home,
says Gelb. Then an acquaintance, the senior
sales person for Inecto, a major hair color
company, revealed their secret. Most of them
are using our product, he told her. There
was something else on the market though,
a hair coloring preparation produced by a
small company called Mury, and he suggested
that she take a few samples home with her
to see if there was a market for them. Instead
of using liquid peroxide to bleach the hair,
Clairol used solid peroxide in a tablet no
bigger than an aspirin. The original product
was called Kleinol, and it was invented by a
German chemist named Dr. Klein, who had a

Joan Clair (the

pseudonym Joan
Gelb adopted
when she became
President of Clairol)
in an early magazine
ad promoting the
modern method of
coloring hair

Lawrence M.
Gelb manufactured
chemical products
before his foray into
the beauty business

let there be

LAWRENCE M. GELB AND HIS WIFE JOAN

BROUGHT A HAIR COLOR PRODUCT TO
THE UNITED STATES IN 1931 AND CHANGED
HISTORY. NOW 89, THEIR SON BRUCE LOOKS
BACK ON HIS FAMILYS LEGACY.

The Clairol Color

Carousel brought
hair color to the
masses at the New
York Worlds Fair
in 1964.

January 2016 americansalon.com

99

Joan with sons Richard (left) and Bruce (right),

both of whom held executive positions in Clairol.

sense of the future and collaborated with the French to see how much
work could be done outside of Germany, Gelb explains. The name
change was a stroke of genius since clair means light in French.
Joan Gelb was one smart cookie, and she definitely had a head
for business. Back in the United States, she began shopping Clairol
around. Her first stop: the
beauty salon at Abraham
WAS ORIGINALLY
& Straus Department Store
in Brooklyn, NY, which
CALLED KLEINOL, AND IT
was owned by Seligman
WAS INVENTED BY A GERMAN
Latz. They opened salons
CHEMIST NAMED DR. KLEIN.
in the best department
stores in the country,
says Gelb. Jimmy Gleason was the manager there, and she agreed
to try a few samples. The next day she called my mother and asked
if she could get more of the product. With that, the Gelbs were off
and running. Initially they signed a contract that gave them the rights
to sell Clairol in the U.S. and Canada, but by 1938, fearing a wartime
blockade, they bought the formula outright for $25,000 and began
manufacturing the product themselves.
Gelb describes Iris Segal, the Vice President of Merchandising
for Seligman Latz, as the most powerful woman in terms of
understanding what you had to do to succeed in business. What she
gave his parents, he says, was a little toe-hold in a lot of cities in the
U.S. Joan Gelb, who adopted the pseudonym Joan Clair, was named
President of the Clairol company, and business grew exponentially,
from zero in 1931 to a million dollars by 1938. One of her coups was
to convince the legendary Parisian hairdresser Antoine to color several

Clairol

100 americansalon.com

January 2016

wigs with Clairol and have them displayed in

the windows at Saks Fifth Avenue. Not many
women were president of anything then, says
Gelb. She was written up in magazines and
was as big of a name as Helena Rubenstein
or Elizabeth Arden. With all that publicity
going to her head, Joan began socializing with
what her son describes as theatre people and
Hollywood stars. Then she met a man in
uniform, and after obtaining a quickie divorce
in Reno, she married him. Six months later
she realized what a blunder she had made,
said Gelb.
Suddenly Joan was out and Lawrence was
in as chairman of Clairol. When he became
interested in a product made in California
called Light and Bright12 shades from Topaz
to Black Velvet plus Ermine and Starlight, two
mixing shades that were used as drabbershe
showed it to Segal, who named it Miss Clairol.
The first one-step hair color product, which
was aggressively marketed to professional
hairdressers, was introduced at the annual
beauty show (now IBS NY) at the Pennsylvania
Hotel in New York City in 1949. People made
them bring out buckets of water and shampoo
the hair onstage because they couldnt believe
that you could lift and deposit color in one
step, says Gelb, who calls Miss Clairol a
near-perfect product because you could mix
an ounce of one shade with, say, a half ounce
of another, creating an endless combination
of shades. Because the product was applied
directly from a bottle and not with a brush, it
was called a hair color bath. The word dye,
says Gelb, was strictly verboten.
Within two years, Miss Clairol was the
biggest thing in hair color. Gelb, who started
working for Clairol right after graduating from
Yale, learned the business from the ground
up, going on the road with jobbers to see how
they sold the product and eventually calling on
salons in the Binghamton, NY area. When one
salon owner turned him awayDont waste
your time. We only use Roux here, she told
himhe asked if he could have a manicure,
hoping to convince her to buy six bottles of
Miss Clairol in the 30 minutes or so it would
take to finish the service. When she nicked his
cuticle, she took out a bottle with a sailboat on
it. Its an antiseptic, she explained, dabbing
some onto the affected area. The product was
Sea Breeze. When we learned that the owners
of the company wanted to sell, we bought it,
says Gelb. We introduced it to Japan and made
one million dollars the first year. Talk about
the Midas touch. Apparently the Gelb family
had it in spades.Marianne Dougherty.