Footwear Plus January 2017

OUTDOOR PREVIEW : HERITAGE HIKERS
UPDATED CLASSICS ARE ALL THE RAGE
J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7
THE BOOT
ISSUE
Ankle to Over-the-Knee:
Mixed Textural Details
Enrich the Season
SCOTT HOME ON BUILDING BRANDS THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY
Come And Experience Earth At These Upcoming Shows:

January 10 - 12, Outdoor Retailer, #36160
Salt Palace Convention Center
February 11 - 13, Atlanta Shoe Market, #1317-1323
Cobb Galleria Centre
February 21 - 23, FN Platform,
Las Vegas Convention Center
Style Featured: Earth Malta
earthshoes.com
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E X C E L L E N C E I N D E S I G N & R E TA I L
Congratulations to All Nominees

FOOTWEARPLUSMAGAZINE.COM
WOMENS COMFORT
WOMENS COLLECTION
CLOGS
NATIONAL CHAIN
c Taos
c Brother Vellies
c Born
c Nordstrom
c Birkenstock
c Tory Burch
c Swedish Hasbeens
c DSW
c Earth
c Sarah Jessica Parker
c Dansko
c Foot Locker
MENS COMFORT
MENS COLLECTION
RAIN BOOTS
ONLINE RETAILER
c Rockport
c Cole Haan
c Joules
c Zappos
c Ecco
c Clarks Originals
c Chooka
c Shopbop
c Samuel Hubbard
c Common Projects
c Hunter
c ShoeBuy
BOOTS
WORK BOOTS
BEST COLLAB
BOUTIQUE
c Vince Camuto
c Wolverine
c Gigi Hadid x
c XTC on Melrose
c Stuart Weitzman
c Rocky
c Frye
c Timberland Pro
Stuart Weitzman
c Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik
c Shoegasm
c Clementines
c Cinderella x
ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE
SANDALS
c New Balance
c Birkenstock
Irregular Choice
SNEAKER BOUTIQUE
c Vans
c Spring Step
BEST SNEAKER COLLAB
c Wish
c Adidas Originals
c Naot
c Rihanna x Puma
c Bodega
c Kith
c Riccardo Tisci x Nike
ATHLEISURE
OUTDOOR STYLE
c Skechers
c Pikolinos
c Adidas
c Sorel
c Nike
c Ugg
c Kanye West x
Adidas Originals
CHILDRENS
c Sole Desire
c Keen
c Littles Shoes
c Skechers
c Under Armour
c Adidas
COMFORT SPECIALTY
c Schuler Shoes
c Jambu
BRAND OF THE YEAR
c Birkenstock
JA N UA RY 2 0 17
Caroline Diaco
Publisher
FEATU R ES
12 Home Field Advantage
Scott Home, president of Fashion Major
Brands, is building his business the
old-fashioned way: great products,
partnerships and passion. By Greg Duttter
18 Trend Spotting
Our Fall 17 boots preview: the latest
materials, colors, patterns, silhouettes
weve got it covered from ankle to overthe-knee. By Ann Loynd
On the cover: Velvet

bootie by Hispanitas,
Asos sweater, vintage
skirt and sweater.
Karl Lagerfeld
gloves available at
Bloomingdales.
36 Tried and True

Outdoor brands go back to their roots
since authenticity appeals to Millennials
and boomers alike. By Emily Beckman
Photography by
Trevett McCandliss
Fashion editor/
styling: Ann Loynd;
hair and makeup:
Nevio Ragazzini/
Next Artists; model:
Jenny F./Red Model
Management.
42 The New Classics

Whats old is new again, as brands
reintroduce traditional favorites with
fine-tuned aesthetics and upgraded
comfort. By Ann Loynd
44 Good Company
Paired with relaxed apparel, brogue boots
kick it up a notch. By Ann Loynd
This page: Penny

Loves Kenny
patchwork booties,
Marcmarcs tights.
McQ Alexander
McQueen dress
and Cara New York
scarf available at
Bloomingdales.
PA G E
48
48 Indie Queen
Crushed velvets, posh prints and baroque
embroideries add wrapped-heel appeal to
ankle boots. By Ann Loynd
DEPA RTM ENTS

6 Editors Note
8 This Just In
10 Scene & Heard
40 Whats Selling
58 Shoe Salon
64 Comfort
68 Last Word
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell
Trevett McCandliss
Creative Directors
EDITORIAL
Ann Loynd
Fashion Editor
Emily Beckman
Associate Editor
Kathy Passero
Editor at Large
Melodie Jeng
Contributing Photographer
ADVERTISING/
PRODUCTION
Jennifer Craig
Associate Publisher
Katie Belloff
Associate Art Director
Production Manager
Allison Kastner
Operations Manager
Bruce Sprague
Circulation Director
Mike Hoff
Digital Director
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FOOTWEAR PLUS (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.,
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fw_01_17_TOC_03.GDindd.indd 4
1/6/17 11:50 AM
Come see us at: Chicago 1/24 - 1/25, Kansas City 2/6 - 2/8, Atlanta Shoe Market 2/11 - 2/13, TRU 2/12 - 2/13,
Portland 3/4 - 3/5, Platform 2/21 - 2/23, BSTA NH 2/26 - 2/28, Sole Commerce 2/27 - 3/1
the
OMEGA
ED ITORS NOT E
Magic Dust
Old-School Remedies
RECENTLY, A WELL-established independent retailer called me nearly at his
wits end. He said the first few weeks of the
holiday season had been especially challenging and exasperatingon the heels of what
had already been a pretty deplorable year. If
another balmy fall coupled with the election
from hell hadnt been enough of a drag on
sales, the apparent abandonment of longestablished industry practices was pushing
him to the brink of despair.
It started when a national chain slashed prices by 30 to 50 percent
on a major boot brands entire line, its MAP pricing policies be damned.
Rumor has it the chainlike a lot of retailerswas cash-starved and
desperate to move inventory that must have been figuratively sweating
on its shelves. The (assumed) consensus: The chain had no choice but
to jumpstart sales, even though off-price is a highly debatable strategy
for generating traffic among consumers long conditioned to expect
discounting and prone to shop only when they need a product, thanks
to the 24/7 immediacy of online retailing. So if its beach weather in
the heart of football season, shoppers dont need boots, even if theyre
priced 25-, 50- or 75-percent off.
As if that wasnt bad enough, another cornerstone brand of this
retailers fall merchandise mix decided to slash prices on a key style
on its direct-to-consumer (DTC) site. Apparently, the brand was also
sweating over its inventory backload and needed to generate sales
rather than wait to see whether the weather eventually cooperated.
From the perspective of this frustrated caller, competing against fellow
retailers as well as a growing legion of third-party sellers on price is
inevitable, but getting his legs cut out from under him by a longtime
partner made him question whether the concept of a vendor-retailer
partnership still exists. For the record, this retailer has sold the heck
out of the style in question for decades and has relied on it as a prime
source of revenue.
Increasing DTC competition from brands is one symptom of a
widespread sickness in our industry: over-distribution. And thanks
largely to the smartphone, shopping has mutated into a runaway,
margin-eating, brand-eroding cancer for both retailers and wholesalers. There is a potential cure: controlled distribution. While some
brands expand DTC efforts and retailers counter by upping the dosage on private label programs, neither are long-term solutions that
will lead to greater well-being for our industry. For starters, such a
divided landscape makes shopping inconvenient. Its like trying to sift
through a tower of branded babble. A controlled breadth of selection,
where shoppers cant whip out their phones and easily find the same
style cheaper elsewhere, is a more sustainable approach for retailers
and wholesalers. In this setting, brands can compete and generate
excitement about categories, allowing them to thrive.
When wholesalers and retailers meet in the middle to build strong
partnerships grounded in trust and better margins, they create a more
profitable and sustainable environment. Scott Home, president of
Fashion Major Brands, distributors of Coolway, Musse & Cloud and
Freestyle by Coolway and the subject of this months Q&A (P. 12), is
one proponent of the middle ground. While his private-label business
is on the uptick, the former retailer is quick to note that hed much
prefer to grow his wholesale brands the old-fashioned way: through
a controlled distribution of valued retail partners who are reasonable
on matters like freight, pricing and return policies. He believes its
a healthier approach for both sides. Home speaks from experience,
having been a turnaround specialist for Nordstrom shoe departments
for years, then a key figure in the impressive growth curves at Dr.
Martens and Diesel. Its quite a career legacy.
This issue is full of tried-and-true approaches. The strong heritage
brands and styles movement running through our Fall 17 outdoor
preview (p. 36) is one example. Our feature on why upgraded classics
are scoring again at retail (p. 42) is another. Last, our Whats Selling
profile (p. 40) of The Elephants Perch discusses how, for four decades,
this Idaho-based specialty outdoor store has maintained its foothold
against all odds. Indeed, whats old and proven might very well serve
as a worthy New Years resolution. To that end, be sure to check out
the inspiring resolutions in our roundup for Last Word (p. 68).
This brings me back to that retailers phone call. As we discussed
potential answers to his problems, we found that some of the best ideas
involved old-fashioned business practices. For example, discovering and
nurturing new brands and dropping overexposed ones. Brainstorming
solutions had a calming effect on both of usparticularly after a year
that can best be described as surreal (the most searched word in 2016,
according to Merriam-Websters dictionary), when many industry
members floundered or were forced to the exits. Living in a world of
seemingly unsolvable problems is stressful. Its comforting to remember
that readily available solutionsstrategies that have proven to work
many timesmight just be the elixir weve all been searching for.
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
6 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017
www.gabor.de
Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear
Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net
THIS JUST IN
these boots are

made for walking
Small to tall, New Yorkers take it to
the streets in the seasons staple silhouette.
Photography by Justin Ryan Kim
2017 Collection
My Islands take me to my friends,
my special places, and the things I love.
Platform, Surf Expo, North West Buyers, WCTS
www.islandslipper.com
HAND-MADE
IN HAWAII
SINCE 1946
SCENE & HEARD
Ugg
flagships
RFID mat
informs
shoppers
whats in
stock.
Brave
Cool
World
BRICK-AND-MORTAR retailers
have been taking it on the chin
of late. Theyve been getting beat
up at the register and largely
dismissed for being an outdated,
low-tech, slow-to-react format
that nearly everyone predicts
will be a thing of the past in the
not-too-distant future. While
there are some truths in these
scathing assessments, they also
might be a tad over-the-top. For
starters, even Amazon is opening brick-and-mortar stores,
and, according to a recent Pew
Research Center survey, online
accounts for just 11 percent of
total retail sales.
Whats also wrong is the
assumption that the physical
store will remain a destination
for a dwindling number of luddites. Not true. Try these hightech gadgetslike bots, virtual
reality goggles (enabling one
to envision a dining room set
in their home) and interactive
try-on mirrorsthat are making their way into stores now.
A bot, for example, can guide a
customer through the aisles to find
requested items. A smart mirror
can make recommendations of
the perfect outfit to go with those
snazzy new boots. The experience
is less time-consuming. More
importantly, such new technologies are just super-cool, making
a brick-and-mortar experience
fresh and entertaining, not to
mention a way for retailers to
generate add-on sales.
Radio frequency identification
(RFID), which enables data to
be embedded into clothing tags
so items can be tracked in the
store, is another new gizmo being
introduced. Ugg and, believe
it or not, Zappos have tested
RFID. Zappos installed a Magic
Checkout in a pop-up shop in San
Francisco where shoppers walked
over an RFID-reading mat that
scanned the tags and, through
mobile payment, their purchases
were completed in seconds. Uggs
use of RFID involves another
magic carpet of sorts: When a
customer steps onto the carpet
in tagged boots, style tips and
product information (like what
styles are in stock) appear on the
nearby screen.
Traditional brick-and-mortar
retailers like Nordstrom and
Bloomingdales are also in beta
mode on smart dressing room
mirrors. Rebecca Minkoff has
smart mirrors up and running
in her flagships. Theres even
the ability to try an outfit on
without trying it on. Pretty
cool, indeed.
Worth a Visit
SO JOO DA Madeira is often referred to as a Capital da Calada
(the Capital of Footwear). The Portuguese city and its surrounding
areas has been a wonderland of footwear manufacturing and fashion for decades, and now it has the Footwear Museum dedicated to
celebrating its rich history.
The Footwear Museum currently boasts more than 500 shoes on
display out of a collection of more than 7,000. In addition, visitors
can marvel at the machinery, tools and stories from generations of
Portugals legendary shoemakers.Theres even a time tunnel that
transports the visitor through history via the evolution of footwear. In
addition, a section on contemporary art as it relates to footwear, Shoe
Me Again, lends an inspirational aspect to the museums experience.
We hope visitors realize the evolution of the Portuguese footwear
industry, which is currently present in all the major international
stages of fashion, incorporating more and more design, technology
and creativity, says Ricardo Oliveira Figueiredo, mayor of So Joo
da Madeira.This museum belongs largely to the entrepreneurs and
workers from the shoe industry. We want them to take ownership of
it and use it as an instrument of industry competitiveness.
Figueiredo says since the museum opened its doors in the fall, it has
become a destination for industry professionals and entrepreneurs
seeking a leg up on the competition. Here, he says visitors can learn
about past success stories as well as be inspired by new ones. We
are promoting a sector that has a unique history in our country and
a very bright future ahead, he says.
High Praise
IN LINE WITH its earth-centric brand philosophy, Astral is
introducing 77-percent Cannabis
Sativa (commonly known as
hemp) uppers in its Donner
and Tinker styles for men and
women, respectively, for Fall
17. Besides being eco-friendly, the material reportedly sports
better abrasion-, tensile-, tear- and UV-resistance than cotton.
Hemp was an easy choice for us, says Christie Dobson, vice
president of sales and marketing. Its durable, antimicrobial and
breathable, and its also petroleum-free and grown without pesticides,
herbicides or fertilizers. Suggested retail for both styles is $100.
fw_01_17_Scen&Heard_01.indd 10
1/24/17 11:23 AM
Making the world a little more bootie full
sporto.com
HOME
FIELD
ADVANTAGE
W i t h a p r o v e n t r a c k r e c o r d , S c o t t Ho m e , p r e s i d e n t o f
Fa s h i o n Ma j o r B r a n d s ( d i s t r i b u t o r o f C o o l w a y, M u s s e & C l o u d
a n d Fr e e s t y l e b y C o o l w a y ) i s b u i l d i n g t h e b u s i n e s s t h e
old-fashioned way: great products, partnerships and passion.
BY GR EG D U T TE R
COTT HOME KNOWS a

thing or two about how to
build footwear brands into big
businesses. His track record
speaks volumesreally, really
big volumes. Try these stats on
for size: During Homes sevenyear tenure at Dr. Martens
beginning in 1993, where he
first joined the sales department
and quickly rose through the ranks to president of
its U.S. subsidiary, sales rocketed from $28 million
to $385 million annually. Next came his run at
Diesel, a license of Global Brand Marketing Inc.,
that went from startup to nearly $500 million
annually in about five years while Home served
as vice president of sales. Prior to those runs,
Home worked for 14 years at Nordstrom, where
he rose from a sales associate on the floor of its
South Coast Plaza location to buyer for its Brass
Plum department just a few weeks into the job.
He eventually became a Mr. Fix It for the Seattlebased retailer, traveling to locations across the
country to turn its struggling shoe departments
around. They would send me in to clean up the
crews, the inventories and buy new shoes, he
says. I was known as Attila the Home, which
Im not necessarily proud of because I often had

to fire a bunch of people and clean up the mess.
But that was my duty.
Before Nordstrom, Home performed various duties for his familys chain of womens
shoe stores, Home Shoe Company, which, at its
peak, consisted of 15 stores in Washington and
Oregon. In fact, he began his footwear career at
the tender age of nine, working in the stockroom
and moving onto the floor by age 13, selling the
chains mix that spanned Nike

to Charles Jourdan. At 15, he
lived in Spain for a year with an
uncle who was putting together
a wholesale collection. Home
had a ringside seat to the art of
shoemaking. Upon his return,
he finished high school, tried
college for a year or so and then
returned full-time to the business
he knew and loved. He worked
his way up, becoming manager
of the familys biggest store in
Portland and then a buyer before
making the move to Nordstrom.
Home credits his first and greatest role modelhis late father,
Harrywith teaching him nearly everything he
learned about the business and for helping him
develop his deep-rooted passion for product. The
elder Home was a longtime industry veteran who
is noted for being the first non-family member
to become a vice president at Nordstrom. He
led the companys expansion into Oregon before
deciding to build a retail business for his family.
(As shoe lore goes, Everett Nordstrom lent Home
the money to get his business off the ground. He
Upstage any downpour.
The Rockport Company, LLC. All rights reserved.
Outdoor Retailer I Atlanta Shoe Market I FN PLATFORM

For appointments please contact your sales representative or email: sales@rockport.com
O&A
asked where he was going to open stores, and my dad said, Right outside
of your stores because I guarantee you are going to be missing size sevens,
and Ill have them, Home says.) In particular, Home credits his father for
instilling a work ethic in him that led to his 24/7 approach to the business.
One of his fondest childhood memories, in fact, is of Sundays when he and
his father would climb a hill on the family farm and tally the weekly store
receipts. We would see where we were for
the week, and then we would chop wood
for an hour or two, Home recalls. That
was his way of teaching me a good work
ethic and discipline. We chopped a lot of
wood every week.
What are you reading?
That discipline has come in handy as
Killing of the Rising Sun
Home introduces three new brands to the
by Bill OReilly. I also read
U.S. marketCoolway, Musse & Cloud
the Bible every night for
and Freestyle by Coolwayunder his new
10 to 15 minutes before I
umbrella company, Fashion Major Brands.
go to bed. To me, its like
The company opened shop in Culver City,
another history book.
CA, in 2013, following several short stints
ton of volume, but we got it placed in the right spots, he says. And despite a
rough year for the industry overall, Home says his sales tripled, and he projects
a 40 percent increase for 2017. I think this company can be a major player
in the next couple of years in this country, he adds. And while Homes track
record and the relationships he has built over the years factor into his growth
plans, the longtime former retailer knows that will only go so far. Youre only
as good as your last shipment. If the shoes
arent good, people wont continue to give
me orders because they like me, Home
explains. I believe in the product and, if I
do my job with the design team properly,
well continue to grow the brands.
still alive. His passion
Homes track record for building bigfor product, the way
league brands is evident. Its as though he
he presented it and his
has been groomed from childhood to be
knowledge of this business
successful in this business. He has a firm
were incredible. Of anybody
grasp on both the retail and wholesale
living, [Skechers CEO]
sides of the equation, which is enhanced
Robert Greenberg because
by a genuine love of product. The numhe knows how to market
bers speak for themselves, but Home has
and sell stuff, period. The
always been dialed in on how you achieve
guy is great.
them: product, product, product. Asked
what he loves most about the shoe busiWhat was your firstness, he replies, Thats easy. Its product
ever paying job? In my
first. Ive just got a passion for footwear.
familys stores [Home Shoe
Home notes that whenever he presents
Company] at age nine,
shoes and sees peoples eyes light up, its
working in the stockrooms
like opening Christmas presents for him.
on Saturdays for $5 a day.
Shoes have just gotten into my blood, he
says, adding that every level of the busiWhich talent would you
nessproduct, materials, people, building
most like to have? To build
an organizationexcites him. I guess Im
something, like a house, or
entrenched, and thats partly my dads
be able to fix a car, because
fault for bringing me into this business
the only thing I have ever
and teaching me all about it, he says. I
done is work in the shoe
was fortunate to have one of the best shoe
business.
guys ever as my coach. He taught me that
this isnt just a one-dimensional job. I was
What is your favorite
taught all aspects, and I love all aspects.
hometown memory?
Im very lucky in that regard.
Growing up with my eight
brothers and sisters on our
Having built major brands, how would
nine-acre farm in Lake
you assess the introduction of Coolway,
Oswego, OR. We had horses
Musse & Cloud and Freestyle by Coolway
and cows, and it was just a
to date? Are they where you expected
beautiful place.
them to be?
OFF THE CUFF
where Home had been brought in to launch

What is inspiring you?
or revive several businesses, including
The excitement of a new
Palladium, Charles David, Jay Adoni and,
government and a new day
most recently, as president of Chinese
that its going to bring us.
Laundry. Home chalks the interim period
The country needs a ton
between Diesel and his new company up
of change, and I think we
to (not always fun) learning experiences
need to move to the head
and to helping out some dear industry
of the class again. I think
friends. Im not the kind of guy who likes
the new administration
to change jobs, he says, noting he was in
will spark the economy
the process of launching his own brand
and help business.
when a phone call from the Mayordomo
family, the former Diesel distributor in
What is your motto? Only
Spain, changed his plans. They said
do things in life that will
its their fathers dream to expand their
add value to your existence
business into the U.S. and that I was the
and never waste any time.
right guy to do it, Home says. He was
sold on the opportunity after a week spent
What sound do you love?
meeting the family in Spain and learning
I grew up on a farm in
more about the company, Grupo Yorga,
Oregon, so a river running
which, in addition to the aforementioned
through the woods and a
brands, includes eight others and more
crackling campfire.
than 160 stores in Spain. What attracted
me is that the family has six kids running
If you could hire
the business who all grew up working in
anybody, who would it
their stores, just like I did, he says. They
be? My father, if he was
are learning how to be better wholesalers,
and I saw an opportunity to give them a
hand. Plus, they have given me the freedom to run their business in America.
Beyond those backroom synergies, what attracted Home to the job was
the productspecifically the styling, the European-made quality and terrific
leathersand the fact that the price points were phenomenal. All the stars
aligned: good people to work with, the freedom to do what I know how to do
in America and great product that could fill a void in this market, he says.
Coolway was first to come ashore in the spring of 2015, Musse & Cloud
followed this year, and Freestyle by Coolway will make its debut this spring.
So far, so good, Home reports. The reaction has been good. We didnt do a
First of all, unless you are Steve Madden

or Camuto, selling shoes today is really
hard, especially when launching new
brands. All you can do is put good shoes in front of buyers, explain why they
are good and talk about the attributes of your company and how you are going
to be a good partner. But at the end of the day, product is king.
Easier said than done these days, correct?
Buyers used to take more of a chance, and the business was more exciting.
Our economy was better, and you could afford to make some mistakes. Today,
people are afraid. So they keep buying more from the same brands to try and
easy street
43 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS

IN-STOCK &
OPEN-STOCK
FALL 2017
1-800-826-6430
O&A
protect the shelf space and sales they had from the previous year, even
though in some instances they know the shoes arent as good. Everybody
is just too cautious.
What niches are you aiming to fill with your brands?
For 2017, Coolway will become a much more junior brand. It will be a
lot more Asian-made product and a lot trendier. When we introduced
Musse & Cloud this year, because it and Coolway were made in Spain,
they kind of overlapped. I had to find a new identity for Coolway. Musse
& Cloud, in contrast, will be more middle-of-the-road Dolce Vita and
Jeffrey Campbell level of fashion. And Freestyle by Coolway will be more
athleisure, but not entirely.
Meaning?
I want Freestyle by Coolway to break into the sneaker market, but I dont
want it to compete directly with Nike, Skechers or any of those guys. We
want to make sneakers that are comfortable, colorful and a little bit different. It wont look like just another tennis shoe or jogger. Freestyle is a
lot like the concept we did at Diesel; we made a hybrid between sneakers
and street shoes, and it worked really well. I think thats what this market
is really crying for now because all their options are either tennis shoes
or booties over and over again. And with tennis shoes, consumers want
the brand name of Nike, Adidas, Puma, etc. So we are creating something
totally different. Itll still have sneaker influences, but its going to be
another category of casual footwear.
Will Freestyle by Coolway be strictly athleisure?
No. Well also have boots, over-the-knee boots, sandalsit will be a complete line. We believe there are a lot of people that dont want to wear
just sneakers or booties. They are looking for alternatives. If we design
the right shoes and launch the brand properly, then Freestyle should be a
big growth vehicle for us. To get the ball rolling, well have this amazing
electronic booth at FN Platform next month thats all white and, when a
shoe is lifted off the display, the entire wall changes to the color of that
particular shoe. When its put back on the shelf, the wall changes back to
white. Were also in the process of signing an up-and-coming actress to be
our brand ambassador and well be rolling out a fleet of Freestyle trucks
for a college tour this year. Students can try on shoes and order them via
our iPads. We may have one of the Freestyle trucks for the August show in
Las Vegas as part of a parking lot party.
What do attribute Musse & Clouds initial success to?
Ill tell you exactly why: The shoes are a little bit different in the way
we interpret the trends. They have a lot more going on, the leathers
are great, the made-in-Spain factor is huge and the price points, at
$100 to $120 for this level of quality, is amazing. Good buyers and
shoe aficionados can still identify intrinsic value in footwear, and these
shoes have a lot of that value.
Well, its encouraging that some buyers can identify and appreciate
intrinsic value in shoes.
Thats one of the big problems with the shoe business these days. There
are fewer and fewer people who are actually shoe aficionados. People who
really love the product and will pick up a shoe and say, Oh my God, this
construction is amazing, these leathers are fantastic People that truly
know and appreciate the difference.
So, in presenting your brands to buyers who may be relying on spreadsheets more than their eye, what do you say?
I point out the attributes of the productthe leather qualities and, in the
case of Musse & Cloud, the made-in-Spain factor. I tell then about the
heritage of our company, that its a family-owned business and that they
are honorable people. This business is not so filled with honorable people,
anymore. If there are issues with our product, well certainly take care of
them. In my heart, Im a retailer. We are here to help. If a retailer wants
us to go into their stores to educate their sales crews, well do so gladly. In
general, I have my reps do things the way we did in the old days, like trunk
shows and in-store presentations. Many brands have gotten away from that
because its deemed not cost effective. They see their accounts at shows
and thats the last time theyll see them until the next show. Thats no way
to grow an independent business. Youve got to be in their stores and see
what those businesses are like. I love doing that.
If its a proven strategy, why is it becoming increasingly rare?
Two main reasons. First, its just much harder today for older sales reps to
make the same amount in commissions compared to when, years ago, there
were 15 brands that were all hot and they couldnt get enough shoes to ship.
Thats not the case these days. It requires a lot more effort on their partto
be in the stores and make the sales happen. Secondly, many of the younger
people in our business feel entitled and dont know how to travel, nor do
they want to. They are basically really lazy. I still do everything, whether
its shipping shoes, working in the factories to help build a line, attending
as may reps meetings as possible and visiting retailers in their stores. Im
a hands-on, in-the-field kind of guy. So, I guess to answer your question,
we dinosaurs are a dying breed [laughs].
How would you assess the past year overall at retail? Was it really as
bad and disruptive as many claimed?
It was crazy and it was bad. I heard nothing but horror stories speaking
with rep and retailer friends. Retail is confused because there is not enough
direction and not enough uniqueness. While the weather has been part of
the problem, the biggest issue is third-party selling online and the fact the
same shoes are everywhere. So a customer walks into a Nordstrom, tries
on a pair and then walks outside and buys it on her phone from Amazon.
Brick-and-mortar retailers are the ones who are getting hurt the most.
Having said that, a lot of my growth is coming from opening small clothing
boutiques. Ive got my guys doing apparel shows, and youd be amazed by
how many new stores are out there that want to buy 36- or 48-pair runs
and double it the next season.
That requires a lot of effort to find and service those accounts that a
lot of bigger brands wont bother with, correct?
Thats exactly right. Our pride is not too big; well take any sized order if the
store is right for us. Another factor contributing to the sameness at retail
is that while we all chase the same trends, the trick is to do so a little bit
differently than everybody else. Its really easy for someone to go online and
look at a Jeffrey Campbell shoe and make the exact same one except for a
different buckle. Our industry has become too vanilla, and thats another
reason why stores all look the same. Whats more, today everybody sells
everybody on all levels of distribution.
It seems as though all retail formats are in a state of upheaval and
uncertainty?
Retailers in general are so confused right now because there are so many
things going on all at once and nobody can figure out whats going to take
hold. We all know that online will continue to be a big deal. We also know
that major vendors are selling retailers like Target, Payless and Walmart.
Ten years ago, they only carried closeouts, and now they are buying special
makeups, like Dolce Vitas DV line for Target. A big portion of my growth is
going to come from makeups, as well. We do a private label program >65
HOME RUNS:
FROM DOCS TO
DIESEL
H o w a c o l d c a l l c h a n g e d S c o t t H o m e s
career trajectory and put him in the
c o p i l o t s s e a t o f o n e o f t h e g r e a t b r a n d
r u n s i n f o o t w e a r h i s t o r y.
HINGS COULDNT HAVE been going much better for

Scott Home back in 2000. As president of Dr. Martens
USA, he was coming off a terrific year with sales hitting
$385 millionimpressive considering that when he had
joined the company seven years earlier as a salesperson,
yearly sales had been only $28 million. Home was back
in his home state and all signs pointed to future success
at the company. But then he got a call that changed
his career path dramatically.
The caller was Killick Datta, CEO of Global Brand
Marketing Inc. and licensee of the recently launched Diesel brand. Home had
never heard of Datta. So when he asked Home if he would like to come work
with him, Home was skeptical. When he learned Diesels current volume was
basically nonexistent, he replied: Why would I want to leave a $385-million
company that Im running to work for a company making zero? Undaunted,
Datta convinced Home to visit the companys offices in Santa Barbara, CA,
over a weekend and look at the shoes to give his opinion. What did Home
think of those initial Diesel shoes? They were absolutely terrible, Home
recalls. They were made in Romania, they were stiff, and I told Killick, You
dont stand a chance.
Somehow, a few weeks later, Home found himself taking Datta up on his
offer to help launch Diesel as its vice president of sales. Why? I like building
companies, and I thought this was an opportunity to build something from the
ground up, he says. Killick gave me a lot of rope to work with the product and
build the whole deal. It was a challenge, and I like that. We built it together.
Not in Homes wildest dreams, however, did he think the brand would take
off like it did. He credits its success to tapping into a new hybrid that struck a
chord with millions of consumers around the world. What led to our success
is exactly what the shoe business needs right now: a new hybrid, which was
a sneaker/street shoe, he explains. We made shoes that were like sneakers,
but they werent. They were also like street shoes, but they werent. It was a
hybrid, and thats what the market wanted.
Boy, did it ever. When you are selling Journeys $45 million worth of shoes
wholesale a year, Dillards $30 million and Nordstroms $48 million Yeah, its
a pretty good clip to grow a business at, Home says. That ride was amazing. Toward the end of the run, however, it became the toughest job Home
ever had. As a salesperson programmed to sell, he no longer could; it became
all about controlling distribution. At shoe shows Id sit behind closed doors
telling people I couldnt sell to them over and over again, he recalls. That
wasnt any fun at all.
But Home has no regrets about that jump to a startup. It was a memorable
run that helped build and cement connections throughout the industry that
have led to new jobs and, more importantly, new sales opportunitiesthe latest
being as president of Fashion Major Brands and the introduction of three new
brands, Coolway, Musse & Cloud and Freestyle by Coolway. Home says his
Diesel lineage still opens doors more than a decade later. Ive been fortunate
because my relationships have helped me get my latest shoes placed, he
says. For a lot of other people, its not that easy. G.D.
2017 january footwearplusmagazine.com 17
T R E N D S P OT T I N G
1. Restricted 2. Pikolinos 3. Ariat 4. Durango 5. Earth 6. Naot 7. FCC New York
6
3
1. Earth 2. Blossom 3. Keds 4. Seven Dials 5. Khombu 6. Pikolinos
PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OSEP H P LU C HI N O
Tamaris USA INC. 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando, FL 32814 office (407) 514 2734 theschuh@tamaris.us tamaris.com
1. LArtiste 2. Musse & Cloud 3. Bella Vita
1. Sorel 2. Birkenstock 3. Sebago 4. Joules 5. Lamo 6. Cat 7. Ugg 8. Merrell
1. BC 2. Chelsea Crew 3. Bella Vita 4. Musse & Cloud
BE FIRST IN LINE TO SEE

OUR FALL 2017 COLLECTION
Jan. 10 - Jan. 12, 2017 Feb. 21 - Feb. 23, 2017

Or Contact Your
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To make an appointment contact your local

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1
2
1. Helm Boots 2. Woolrich 3. Clarks 4. Thursday Boot Company
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3
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get Into Outside.

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Visit us at:
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FW_01_17_Trendspotting_03.indd 32
1/6/17 11:38 AM
2
1
1. Woolrich 2. Lamo 3. Alegria 4. Cougar
2
1
4
5
1. Merrell 2. Keds 3. Cat 4. Chooka 5. Cougar 6. Khombu
3
2
1. Wolverine 2. Sebago 3. Rockport 4. Helm Boots 5. Teva
Outdoor brands go back to their roots: Heritage and

authenticity are key product c ues that appeal to younger
and older consumers alike. B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N
Tried and True

TS TIME TO put your money where
Millennials are. According to a report
by the Outdoor Industry Association,
the generation (currently between
the ages of 19 and 35) is expected to
have more purchasing power than
any other consumer segment this year
and will outnumber the next target
demographic by 22 million people.
Whats more, in the not-too-distant
future (2020), annual U.S. spending
by Millennials is projected to hit $1.4
trillion, representing 30 percent of total
retail sales. Yes, the prospect of the
outdoor business depends heavily on
capturing the hearts and minds of Generation
Next, thus the reason why many brands are
broadening their focus from the Ole Faithful
outdoorsman to reach this (allegedly finicky)
younger demographic as well.
Fortunately, heritage and authenticity are
brand traits that play well among Millennials
and Baby Boomers. The current retro Alpine

hiker trend, for example, is just one instance
where classic styling is appealing to a broad
age range. For Fall 17, the story extends to
subdued autumn-inspired colorways and patterns, clean-cut silhouettes and several remakes
of classic styles.
Fall prints have become subtler by nature,
says Kelly Santos, vice president of product for
Bogs, advising buyers to be wary of bold prints.
Whether its triangles or simple plaid, keeping
things uncomplicated is key, she adds.
Hy Rosario, director of product for Teva, affirms
that the authentic retro trend resonates with
Millennials. In working with trend companies,
their research shows that if product is built
with the right nostalgia factor, Millennials will
love it, he says, adding it extends beyond the
outdoor industry to Hollywood capitalizing on
superhero movies and Coca-Cola reintroducing
Surge for a limited time. Brands are effectively
elevating emotional experiences from childhood
and bringing them back in a meaningful way

to Millennials and beyond. The classic Alpine
look has the same emotional connotation.
Outdoor brands have picked up on the signals.
By and large, brands are anchoring their fall
collections in what got many of them here in
the first place: heritage products and classic
styling. Indeed, nostalgia appears to be the new
black. I think this stems partially from society
just being insecure about what is real in this
new digital world were living, says Carrie Hill,
senior design manager for Wolverine. When a
brand starts building a line around real vintage
ads and archival styles, they hold something
very special and unique, which is attractive.
Jim Walsh, senior director of innovation/
active for Rockport, labels Millennials, in
particular, as nostalgia-loving even if they are
relatively young to really look all that far back.
Social media calls it early-onset nostalgia as
information overload has compressed their
sense of time, he explains. They cope with this
Sorel
Teva
Bogs
information overload by reminiscing about the

comforts of the past, so old is new again. He
adds, Brands that are authentic are relatable
to the always on generation.
Jacob Haddad, senior manager of business
planning and product at Vasque, adds that
Millennials mighty integration of social media
has been particularly beneficial to the outdoor
industry. Instagram is the most impactful
platform, serving as a massive outdoor travel
guide. Epic landscapes and hidden swimming
holes are no longer for insiders only, Haddad
offers. Todays youth has this information at
their fingertips, making them more inspired
and inclined to be part of the community.
HERITAGE IS HAUTE
Not surprisingly, brands that already possess
a rich heritage are positioned well to capture
this consumer sentiment. Greg Duffy, senior
performance footwear director for Timberland,
believes heritage is something that cant be
bought or made new; its only something a
brand can earn over time. For example, he
notes how the 65-year-old outdoor brand is
able to leverage its rich heritage through its
leathers. We are one of the worlds largest
purveyors of leather, he says. We have a lot
of expertise on how to craft it into beautiful
footwear. By taking a multi-tiered approach
to hiking, Timberland continues to improve
upon such authentic Alpine roots for Fall 17
with its re-issued classic, the 1978 Hiker. Our
construction techniques are a little bit better, but we didnt reimagine the whole boot,
explains Duffy, noting how the aesthetic was
kept almost identical but with the incorporation of better, sleeker performance technology.
We now know how to better gusset tongues
and reduce excessive leather, he says.
Another brand delving into the archives is
Rockport. While known for introducing innovative comfort technologies in walking shoes for
more than 40 years, the reintroduction of its
XCS rugged boots collection this fall is firmly
rooted in heritage and authenticity, according
to Walsh. We dove into the Rockport archives
to update our classic styles with modern comfort technology components and materials, he
says, noting that the fresh, lightweight outsole
construction and mixed leather textures on
the uppers elevate the classic alpine look into
a more contemporary utilitarian silhouette.
In a balance of classic aesthetics and new
materials, Merrell infuses its rich Vermont
heritage with the launch of the Eagle AC+
and Solo AC+ collections. Revolutionary in
its time, Merrell mixed athletic materials and
flexibility into hiking boots in the late 1980s
with the Eagle and Solo. For Fall 17, the brand
is reintroducing these classic silhouettes using
modern sew-up uppers, full-front comfort
features, cushion and flexbility, while still
respecting its heritage with the classic design.
We protect and cherish the products our
consumer cherishes every day, but also are not
afraid to listen to consumers and move our key
drivers forward as materials/processes help
improve experiences, says Martin Mellish,
vice president of active lifestyle product. Our
product is not meant for glass cabinet status,
we are not building collectors items. Our
heritage is built on experiences and living an
amazing outdoor lifestyle.
Sorel is also blending authentic style and
functionality, reaching back into its 50-plus
years of archives for design cues. Marion Minary,
product line manager, singles out its Joan of
Arctic Wedge Mid, Dacie Lace and Caribootie
styles as highlights of the fall collection. A
strong sense of heritage helps to maintain
consumer trust in the brand, she says. Our
customers know these values are represented
in our bootswhether its an elegant wedge
or a rugged snow bootand this is one reason
they continue to come back to us. Sorel is
also introducing a new hiker-inspired boot,
Sneakchic Alpine. Minary assures the flat,
ankle-height silhouette will speak to customers desires for variety in both heel and upper
height. The premium leather-and-suede upper
and gold hardware matched with a tough lug
outsole exemplify Sorels unique intersection
of protection and style, she says.
Sean Beers, president of Portland Product
Werks, licensee of Woolrich Footwear, is also
focusing heavily on the brands roots (known
as the original outdoor clothing company)
for fall. The difference this time, however, is
such styles will be categorized as outdoor and
comfort as opposed to fashion. They all feature
performance elements that enable them to
exist for reasons other than their pure design
aesthetic, he explains. The new styles will
feature traction outsoles, waterproof materials and constructions, athletic fit and natural
linings rather than just a trendy look. For
example, Woolrichs Fully Wooly cold-weather
boot wraps the foot in real wooloffering an
authentic insulation story as a point of difference to competitors that typically rely on
synthetic technologies.
Teva is also tapping into its rich historyone
that dates back to the 80s and white-water raftingas a badge of authenticity for consumers.
The Fall 17 casual collection builds on the success of heritage favorites with updated design
iterations. The popular Arrowood collection and
Rockport
Timberland
Woolrich
Ecco
Bearpaw
Wolverine
Emu Australia
Chooka
De La Vina and Foxy boot styles are examples. Arrowood features

FloatLite, a durable outsole that provides feather-light comfort
in every step, according to Rosario. Our consumer is looking for
product that is versatile and does not compromise style, he says,
adding, Our Arrowood boots are on-trend yet functional for the
consumer seeking multi-purpose footwear.
Founded in Denmark in 1963, Ecco is debuting a heritage
campaign for fall, dubbed Ecco DNA. A highlight is the update
of its Track II rugged casual style in celebration of its 25th
anniversary. It includes contemporary executions, the original
versions and a limited-edition package featuring full leather Yak
uppers. Lastly, a womens version of the Track II will be in the
offering. Felix Zahn, product director for Ecco Americas, believes
the Track II is in step with the current consumer mindset. In
times of global political instability and economic turmoil, a lot
of people seek stability, he says. Plus, our society is changing at
a faster pace than ever, so products that have a connection to the
past can give a feeling of safety and create the impression that we
can slow things down a bit.
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BEHIND THE SEAMS

For some brands, upgrading fit and comfort of archival styles is
just part of the story. In the case of Bearpaw and its new faux fur
capsule collection, its driven by ethical concerns as well. We
understand that people are more conscious about ethical issues
relating to fur and even sheepskin, says Denise LeMons, senior
designer. And while LeMons believes that Bearpaws authenticity
still comes from its use of sheepskin, the detailed faux fur accents
on the vamps, collars and shafts also lend a more unique and
handcrafted appeal.
Along those lines, Emu Australia has collaborated with aboriginal
artists to create an exclusive range of product featuring traditional
artwork. The brand will also introduce a unique line featuring
kangaroo and emu leathers. These styles talk to the brands pillars
of innovative and natural but also have that point of difference
consumers are seeking, says Sue Meehan, global director of brand
and e-commerce. Authenticity drives the purchasing decisions
of Millennials, and thats a big market to tap into, she says, adding, The vast majority of young professionals dont look to buy
from big businesses who are making large profits; instead they
place greater value on what brands say and the genuine quality
of their products and services. Meehan adds, Millennials are
digital natives. Theyll see straight through brands who arent
being authentic.
Rob Moehring, chairman of Washington Shoe Company and
makers of Chooka and Western Chief, agrees that no matter how
trends evolve, staying grounded in well-made product that >62
Over 1 billion
people have
comfortably walked
the earth in shoes
made with
Jones & Vining
components.
Lasts
At Jones & Vining (J&V), we dont

make lofty promises. Or outrageous
claims. Instead, we work closely with
footwear designers and developers
like you to bring your most inspired
ideas to life. For more than 85 years,
weve delivered quality, made-toorder lasts and components that are
proven where it matters.
During development. On the
production line. And in comfortable
shoes worn by more than a billion
people.
Insoles
Find out why.

Contact tiredale@jonesandvining.com or 508-232-7470.
Midsoles
Outsoles
W H AT S SE LLI N G
Outdoor Specialty
What were your best-selling shoe brands for 2016? We are doing
really well with La Sportiva and Scarpa. In the past, Asics and Salomon
have performed well. Overall, I think lesser-known brands are actually
coming forward for us now due to our backcountry running, hiking
and backpacking clientele. Most of the inventory is performance;
only about 10 percent is casual. It used to be more, but the trend I
see happening now is people looking for footwear that is going to
do more than one thing. They want to use it for multiple sports.
What were the best new brands added to the mix this past year?
Weve done well with Hoka One One and Altra, but I also picked
up a little brand called Astral that mainly produces water shoes.
It has cool styles, and they are planning to expand their line soon.
What inspires your buying decisions? Ive always looked for
innovationwhats new. I like to try something different. I think
people look toward us to see whats new in the outdoor market, so
I always try to stay on the forefront.
Any surprises in 2016? Our performance running footwear was
very slow. Probably half of what Ive sold in the past. I think this was
caused by a lot discounting, especially with places like The Sports
Authority shutting down. I took action for next year by ordering less
and just cautiously waiting to see what happens with the market.
How do you think your business faired in what has been a tough
year for retail overall? We did ok, but I did cancel a lot of orders. I
was definitely more cautious. I just think there is a lot of merchandise
available out there. For our clientele, we are kind of a small business
in a resort area, so it is really hot or cold. Our down times are pretty
quiet. Its hard for us to change the footwear mix every six months;
it just doesnt really work. Its easier to stick to the best-selling styles
and plan a mix that caters to the most important customers when they are
here. Its certainly a juggling act.
THE ELEPHANTS PERCH
Ketchum, Idaho
OR MORE THAN 40 years, The Elephants Perch, an outdoor specialty store in Ketchum, ID, has catered to the areas
explorative community with a 5,000-square-foot shop teeming with high-performance apparel and equipment backed
by an experienced and outdoor-savvy sales staff. Much of the
merchandiselike skis, helmets and paddlesis available
for rent in order to inspire patrons to get outside and try new
activities. Our goal is to perpetrate an active lifestyle and give back to the
community, says Liza Wilson, the stores hard goods buyer for more than 25
years. It has always been part of our DNA.
Wilson says Bob Rosso, owner and founder, is to thank for the longevity
of The Elephants Perch as well as its catchy name, which is after a nearby
domed rock popular with climbers amid the mostly jagged Sawtooths range.
Bob is incredibly involved in the community, she notes. He and his wife
are always facilitating events to draw people together for healthy fun. In
fact, The Elephant Perchs website contains an updated calendar of seasonal
outdoor events that allow the community to come together for everything
from a weekend ski race to an evening bike ride led by members of the staff
or local guides. Emily Beckman
What sets the store apart from the competition? Location and service. We
are centrally located, and people come to us if they want to take a hike or go
rock climbing in the Sawtooth Mountains. People sometimes just come here
to pick our brains on where to go when planning a unique trip. We have five
mountain ranges around us, which we use to plan our events. Weve held
cross-country ski races and backcountry runs for years, as well as a Nordic
event. Bob is on several recreational boards that help meet the community
and ultimately draw in customers.
What is the smartest decision you made recently? Hopefully, ordering less
for next year will be a smart decision. And changing my mix from technical
running to more hiking. I think the key is trying to buy footwear that is more
useful for a broader range of activities.
What is the biggest challenge facing your business right now? Id say
the universality of online retailing, making our competition everywhere. To
counteract that, service is key. We have to be friendly and helpful in all ways.
Thats what weve always done though, so we will just continue to do that.
We spend a lot of time giving people information and things that dont cost
money but are valuable to our area.
What is your fastest-growing customer or category segment? The younger
customer is probably the fastest-growing segment. We do a lease program for
kids to get them into Nordic skiing. We also do a bicycle giveaway. We work
with a bike company that provide free bikes to local kids. Theres another
running program called Girls on the Run, and we give free socks. We are very
active in the community, allowing the young people to grow their passion for
various sports. We also use social media to reach out to the younger customer.
How do you envision your store in 10 years? Im not sure what that future
is going to look like. I almost envision stores as showrooms. People would
come and try on things and then order online. Things are changing pretty
quickly. I hope we are hereI hope we are doing business as usual, but you
just dont know.
Fall head over heels.

Come for the shoes, leave with the business.
JAN 31-FEB 2
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MAY 31 ! JUNE 2
The New
Classics
Whats old is new again, as
brands reintroduce traditional
favorites with fined-tuned
aesthetics and upgraded comfort.
By Ann Loynd
OW DO YOU improve upon a classic? The short

answer: not easily. It requires a delicate balance between
familiarity and freshness to retain original customers while attracting new ones. Take Hollywood, for
example. Many film classics have been given makeovers, either by coloration techniques or complete
remakes. Oftentimes, however, such (expensive)
efforts flop at the box office. To wit: The all-female
cast of Ghostbusters blasting away goblins as opposed
to the original starring Bill Murraya perfect example
of leaving well enough alone. Similarly, Coca-Colas
efforts to market New Coke back in the mid 80s as
a bolder, rounder and more harmonious version of
its classic flavor went completely flat. So much so, a
marketing meme floated afterwards that the campaign was designed to make consumers demand the
return of the original beloved flavor all along.
Messing with a classic can be a risky business.
Changing too much, for example, can undermine
consumer trust, according to branding expert, Rob
Frankel. Brand strategy is all about building trust
and differentiation. Differentiation is easy; trust
is not, he says. If you change too much, you undermine that trust.
Frankel adds that while subtle tweaks and changes are often welcome,
ultimately, its a question of balance. Its a good idea if brands can say,
We adopted to this change in a way that only our brand and nobody else
could achieve, he says.
When it comes to remaking classic shoe styles, maintaining the look is
key, but just reaching back into archives and slapping together the same
exact shoe is not the best approach. Matt Powell, sports industry analyst
for NPD Group, believes todays consumer expects the benefits of modern design in classic styling. A couple of brands tried to bring back shoes
exactly like they were made, and they were not successful, he says, adding, The consumer wants the concept of retro but expects a modern shoe.
Powells concept of retro is in step with consumers current love of
all-things nostalgia. Take, for example, the current classic alpine boot
craze, spanning trail-worthy replicas to runway iterations, or the ongoing affection for heritage brands. Theres a nostalgia right now around
things that are olda simpler time without the stresses of what were
going through today, Powell explains. He cites a recent Rolling Stone
issue completely devoted to the 90s as an example, along with recently
robust sales in retro athletic footwear styles. He reports that the classic
athletic category is the hottest trend in athletic footwear, which grew at
a 29-percent clip through the fall of 2016 and shows few signs of slowing anytime soon. He adds that virtually every major brand with older
styles in their vault is participating. Theres a massive trend back to retro
thats bringing back old TV shows to retro sneakers, Powell confirms.
Everyone is on the retro bandwagon these days, agrees Louise Dirks,
who is buying an assortment of throwback styles for Fall 17 at her
Canadian retail chain, Gravitypope. Its being done in a new modern
way with lightweight/comfort aspects, and, in that frame, retro works.
Two such examples are the recent remakes of Converses Chuck Taylor
All Starthe shoes first overhaul in nearly 100 yearsand Vans Classic
Slip-On. In the case of Converse, the new design incorporates parent
company Nikes Lunarlon foam insoles, a padded tongue and microsuede lining, along with such stylistic tweaks as monochrome eyelets,
premium canvas and a fully embroidered patch. It looks like a Chuck
but wears more like a Nike Free. The debut in 2015 generated instant
buzz at retail. The Converse Chuck II with elevated materials, clean outsoles void of foxing and the addition of Nike Lunerlon insoles provided
consumers with comfort as well as a modern feel to the classic, attests
Dirks. She adds that the strategic launch with an elite group of retailers created an immediate demand in the market.
RENEWAL RAVES
The remake of the Vans Classic Slip-On is considered one of the best
in recent memory. If there was ever a silhouette with retro aesthetics
that could benefit from a design upgrade to its original clunky, stiff and
heavy vulcanized construction, it was this shoe. Thanks to an UltraCush
Lite sole and added heel cushioning that combine to improve
Vans
Old
fit, flexibility and increase comSkool
fortall in a lighter-weight packPro
agethe Classic Slip-On has
been reborn. It became a fashion darling, even seen on several runways. For sure, the style
expanded well beyond its base
of primarily male surfers and
skaters. Vans quickly followed
that remake with several others,
including the Old Skool Pro this past holiday season, which included
an array of skateboarding technology upgrades like UltraCush sockliners, Duracap reinforced underlays placed in high-abrasion areas
and a slimmer last for a closer fit in the heel, arch and forefoot. As far
as aesthetics, the foxing is wrapped a little higher, the vamp lengthened slightly and the collar adjusted. All these choices were made
to improve fit and increase the life of the Old Skool Pro, as well as a
cue back to some of the best details when [the shoes] were manufactured in California, explains Neal Shoemaker, designer. He adds that
fw_01_17_Classics_Feature_03.indd 42
1/6/17 11:43 AM
nods to Vans past will continue

for 2017. Our Legacy collection
references 198993, an era they
Converse
love in skateboarding and hardChuck II
core music, both of which the Old
Skool was an integral part, he
says.
Scott Baldt, senior director of
omni-channel for Rack Room
Shoes and Off Broadway Shoe
Warehouse, says the Vans remakes
are performing well in his stores.
Dr. Martens
Mids are gaining momentum and
Newton
styles featuring their traditional
side stripe logo are quickly gaining traction among top sellers,
he reports. Dirks is also excited
about a new Ultrarange style for
Fall 17, which features old-school
styling with a super light gum rubber and high-density EVA outsole on an UltraCush foam insole. Shes in talks with Vans to nab the
style a few weeks ahead of the full release. Limited availability gives
it that push, she says. Everyone wants it because they cant have it!
This falls revamp of several classic Dr. Martens styles under the
umbrella, DMs Lite Collection, has also been received well. Like
the name implies, the Newton 8-eye boot, Cavendish 3-eye oxford
and Edison tassel loafer are lighter (up to 260 grams lighter than
their welted predecessors) and more cushioned thanks, in part, to a
SoftWair memory foam insole with moisture-wicking properties. In
addition, a Phylon midsole, sleeker outsole and triple-stitch construction provides an already broken-in feel. Still, the overall aesthetics
like signature yellow stitching and grooved sidewalls offer familiar
brand markers, according to Simon Jobson, marketing director. Also
true to the brands rich history is the tight palette of black or oxblood
red. DMs Lite takes all of the iconic DNA and associated comfort
and durability that the brand is famous for but in styles that transcend from workwear to fashion and take classic shoemaking skills
into street and lifestyle products, he says, noting that its the companys most evolutionary concept since the original AirWair with
Bouncing Soles technology debuted in the 60s. Jobson adds that the
goal of DM Lites is to attract a broader audience. These consumers will include free-thinking individuals who may have never worn
a pair of DMs before, he says.
So far so good as Jason Rogowsky, CEO of New Yorkbased Shoe
Parlor, reports the DMs Lite Collection is selling well. Weve had
success on the DMs Lite Collection, he affirms. The consumer is
always looking for a lighter version of something thats typically a little on the clunky side. But thats Dr. Martens roots. They linked up
well in that department.
Dirks notes that although the DMs Lite Collection is marketed as
unisex, the response has been stronger among Gravitypopes female
clientele. Customers like the look and the fact that they are significantly lighter than the standard Dr. Martens product, she says. It
helps, she adds, that other brands are going lighter and cushier in
many of their offerings. Consumers are becoming aware of the benefits of lightweight footwear, and more and more brands are putting
research and development into this type of shoe, she says, citing the
Clarks Originals Trigenics and Campers remake of its Pelotas collections as two lightweight stories that have been well-received of late.
WHATS ON TAP
Look for more classic remakes to land
o n s t o r e s h e l v e s i n 2 0 1 7.
TEVA: SO ORIGINAL
An integral part of Tevas DNA, the Original sandal collection will be revamped for this spring with
a FloatLite contoured footbed for added support. The brand is also reviving a fan favorite from
the 90s, the Alp sandal (dubbed Alp Premier).
Its available in a range of vintage outdoor hues
and updated with FloatLite technology. Fall 17 will
include seasonal color updates and new materials in the Universal Puff sandal inspired by vintage
camping accessories and the Universal Premier,
available in expanded rich leathers.
FRYE: GIDDY UP
This spring brings the Frye Western Reissue collection, a revival of styles saddled in history as
far back as the 40s. Highlights include the Tulsa
Firebird, a modernized, studded and supple take
on its stiff, veg-tanned predecessor; the Holly
Brogue Short from the 90s vault, reinvented with
three-dimensional, burnished leather; and Ross
Braided Tall, a 60s-era cowboy classic reimagined
with padded stitching and a two-tone finish.
ADIDAS: ADDED BOOST
Adidas Stan Smith and Superstar classic silhouettes rose to it status over the past few seasons. In an effort to keep the momentum strong,
the brand is giving each a re-boost in the form of
its modern-day midsole technology attached to
the classic uppers. Its a softer, more flexible ride
packaged in two of the most iconic retro fashion
statements. A.L.
UGG OR UGH?
One might assume that genuine improvements in constructionbe it
lighter weight, increased flexibility or improved cushioningwould
always be received well. However, its not always a guarantee. Sometimes
product improvements do not translate at the store level because marketing fails to communicate the upgrades, especially when they are not
easily identifiable to the eye.
Take Uggs re-boot of its Classic, dubbed the Classic II, that hit stores
this fall. The silhouette looks nearly the same as the original but the
uppers are now water- and stain-resistant, a leather heel plate is sturdier, and a new Treadlite outsole offers improved traction. Weve incorporated these innovative technologies, allowing our customer to brave
the elements while still wearing their Classics, says Jennifer Somer, vice
president of womens & lifestyle, adding, This is without a doubt >59
44
G O O D C O M PA N Y
PAIRED WITH RELAXED APPAREL, BROGUE BOOTS KICK IT UP A NOTCH.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
Florsheim wingtips, J. Hilburn

sweater. Opposite: brogues
by Ariat, Asos denim jacket, socks
from Marcmarcs, Stetson fedora.
45
Thursday Boot
Company chocolate
lace-ups, Stetson
bowler, Spectre &
Co. scarf. Opposite,
clockwise from top
left: Cat mixedmaterial lace-up
and Clarks lug-sole
brogue; wingtips
by Wolverine;
Timberland brogue
work boots;
Rockport dress
boot; ornamented
lace-up by Samuel
Hubbard; Cole Haan
burnished brogue.
Fashion Editor:
Ann Loynd; model:
Dennis O.
46
47
48
Summit side-zip
booties, Mavi jeans,
vintage coat. Zadig
& Voltaire sweater
available at
Bloomingdales.
49
All-over glitter booties by Volatile,

Asos jacket and skirt, Marcmarcs tights. Karl Lagerfeld
clutch and Alice and Olivia sweater available at
Bloomingdales. Opposite: Matisse calf-hair bootie,
Betsey Johnson pizza clutch.
50
51
Seven Dials cheetah-print

platform booties. Scotch & Soda
coat and Denim x Alexander
Wang jeans available at
Bloomingdales. Opposite:
Velvet booties by Indigo Rd.,
Christian Siriano dress.
Scotch & Soda top and Zadig
& Voltaire faux-fur vest
available at Bloomingdales.
52
Brocade Western booties

by Nine West, Marcmarcs
tights. Faux sheepskin
coat by Sanctuary and BCBG
Max Azria dress available
at Bloomingdales.
54
55
Firenze Studio brocade velvet ankle boot. Opposite:

embroidered booties by Shellys London, body suit by
Asos, Mavi jeans. Alice and Olivia velvet tuxedo
jacket available at Bloomingdales.
Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Fashion editor/
stylist: Ann Loynd; Hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/
Next Artists; Model: Jenny F./Red Model Management.
56
57
EDITORS PICKS
Ariat
Seven
Dials
D E S I G N E R C H AT
JOSHUA BINGAMAN, FOUNDER

and designer for Helm Boots, possesses a
rare fusion of artistic passion and entrepreneurial spirit in whatever he endeavors to achieve. Before starting his mens
and, new this fall, womens boot brand in
2009, Bingaman owned a successful shoe
store, called Subterranean Shoe Room, in
San Francisco and later opened a popular
caf and coffee roasting company in Austin,
TX. Seven years into that new venture the
shoe bug bit again and the designer began
crafting mens boots in Istanbul, Turkey, where he had been visiting family. Three years later, after knocking on doors of factories
still operating in the United States, he began manufacturing stateside, where production has remained since.
Italy, Spain, Germanytheyre rad, Bingaman muses. But
Ill design some stuff in the U.S. that will make you look twice.
For many brands, that Made in America tag would be the
main selling point, but Bingaman deems it icing on the cake. Its
the design that stops you, he says. You pick it up, look it at and
see how its madethen, the fact that its made in America can be
the tipping point.
In Helms tightly distributed retail accounts, Bingaman notes that
the brand isnt even merchandised on any made-in-the-U.S.A. tables
along with the likes of Chippewa, Red Wing and Wolverine. Rather,
it shares shelf space with designer labels such as Prada and Gucci.
I didnt enter the market to compete with work boots, he says.
With an average price point around $500 retail, Bingamans target
consumer is quite like himself: a creative professional. Architects,
film and movie producers, musicians, even surgeonspeople who
are aware of detail, he says. But Helms consumer isnt limited to
those earning six-figure salaries and above. The designer notes that
many wearers include bartenders, restaurateurs and baristas who
save up for long-lasting, quality product. Theyll spend $500 on
shoes and $1,000 on a suit, because fit matters, Bingaman says,
adding, It defines who they are and how they feel. Its why I design
shoesfor that confidence. Ann Loynd
Whats the theme of your Fall 17 collection? It returns to the
origination of the brandmore European and slightly dressier.
COVER
STORY
Nine West
Are men, in fact, becoming more fashionforward? Dudes are starting to care more.
Whenever we do t-shirts, men are willing
to spend $60 or $70. They see the difference and care about where theyre made.
Tell me about your new womens line.
I knew when I had my shoe store in San
Francisco that women just buy more shoes,
so I wanted to take on the challenge. It will
be two boots and two shoes. The Helm
boots for women have a tomboy look with
a sexy feel.
Why is it important for you to manufacture
in the U.S.? Manufacturing in Istanbul
became difficult for quality control and
Over-the-knee boots kick

style up a notch.
inspection, plus port fees and customs. I

started cold-calling U.S. factories. I showed
up at a factory in Maine and saw that it
was the heartbeat of this rural town. I had
this impassioned feeling of, Holy crap,
this community depends on the factory. It
made me realize, at 37, that this is a huge
part of our history and economy.
What are you most passionate about?
Our customers. I want to know who they
arenot just why theyre buying [Helm] .
Who is your fashion icon? James Dean,
Marlon Brando, Mickey Rourketough
guys who are cool. Its always the guy with
the jeans, t-shirt, leather jacket and boots.
E D I TO R S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J O S E P H P LU C H I N O
JOSHUA BINGAMAN
Keds
Champion
Jersey
Ugg Classic vs. Classic II
continued from page 43

the biggest launch Ugg has ever taken in its 38-year history. (The technology upgrades have also been introduced in four other stylesStreet,
Luxe, Cuff and Slim.)
Home run, right? Joe Gradia, co-owner of Hawley Lane Shoes chain
in Connecticut, believes the Classic II is absolutely an improvement. It
has an ultra-thin heel and arch built into the footbed, which counters
the opinion that Uggs are bad for you, he explains, adding, Theyre
really putting support in the product and have made it better. However,
he notes, the boot has met some resistance in his stores to date. Gradia
says the challenge lies in selling customers on the belief the new version
is worth $30 more. You have a product that looks similar but now has
water-resistance, he offers. A lot of
customers, however, are deciding to
buy the original with the waterproof
spray and save.
Gary Hauss, owner of J. Stephens
chain (with stores in California and
Arizona) has experienced similar difficulties upselling the Classic II to his
customers. The updates they did are
fineif the original wasnt around, he
says. But theres not enough difference to sell them side by side.
Most agree that once the original
joe gradia,
Classic is flushed out of the market,
co-owner, hawley educating consumers on the new and
improved boots will translate into a
lane shoes
successful remake story. The price
hike makes sense, but the consumer
is seeing too much of the same thing
when the old and new versions are side by side, Gradia says.
The consumer really needs to understand why these shoes are more
expensive than the original, and that takes a strong marketing campaign,
notes NPDs Powell. He believes marketing new features and benefits
is imperative to the success of any revamped classic. When there was
marketing around the Converse All Star II and Vans Old Skool Pro, the
response was brilliant, he says.
Along those lines, Ugg has teamed with model/actress Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley as brand ambassador of its new Classics collection. Our partnership has helped us communicate these upgrades to fans, Somer says,
hinting that the redesign is just the start of new branding for Ugg. Were
not just celebrating the launch of the new Classic, but it also marks the
beginning of a whole new line of product you will soon see from Ugg,
including updates to our mens and kids lines.
The price hike

makes sense, but
the consumer is
seeing too much
of the same thing
when the old and
new versions are
side by side.
Keds has incorporated a similar celebrity-centric approach as it reintroduces remakes of its classic Champion style in tandem with its 100th
anniversary celebration last year. Exclusive design collaborations with
such names as Kate Spade, Malhia Kent and Taylor Swift are part of
product upgrades that include OrthoLite footbeds and new upper materials such as tweed and leather. Its a comfort story, says Gillian Meek,
president. If you look around the footwear industry, its becoming a
price of entry. We live in that space where you can be on-trend and fashionable, but it must be really functional. Meek adds, however, that the
brand is careful not to stray too far from the original version. An original is something you cant invent, and thats something to be cherished,
she says. But in todays world where female consumers are bombarded
about the latest fashion technologies and looks on a daily basis, they
need something fresh.
S H O W C A S E FA L L 1 7
Fashion meets function in this

easy-to-walk-in wedge sole and
waterproof suede bootie with
leather detailing, soft faux fur
collar and inside zipper that
screams city-chic. Visit Cougar
at FFANY and Platform.
www.cougarboots.com
Cougars Fall 17 collection takes Athleisure to a whole new level.

Drawing inspiration from the international resurgence of sport fashion,
Cougar has taken its waterproof expertise and created footwear
that encourages you to ignore weather alerts and get into outside. Visit
us at FFANY, FN Platform, Ourdoor Retailer and regional
shows across North America.
www.CougarBoots.com
Bella~Vita has an array of elegant footwear new for 2017 packed

with pizzaz, style and charm and available in a large range of sizes
and widths (N, M, W & WW; 512). Favorites include the Klaudia
II burgundy velvet bootie and Neka floral brocade block-heel
pump. Visit us at FN Platform and all regional shows.
www.bellavitashoes.com
Gabor is Germanys most popular womens shoe brand and one of the
largest producers in Europe. Renowned for its exquisite quality, Gabor
footwear is sought after worldwide for supremely wearable, extraordinarily
comfortable and stylish fashion shoes. See whats new for Fall 17 at BSTA,
FFANY, Tru Show, FN Platform and Northwest Shoe Travelers.
Joules, known for its brilliantly
www.gaborshoes.co.uk
British wellies, has created

a collection of footwear sure
to surprise and delight for
Autumn/Winter 17. New for
the season are the Pop-on, a
clog-like welly made easy for
slipping on and the Downton,
new stylish faux-fur trim welly.
From classic prints to the new
on-trend Biker style equipped
with branded buckles, were
sure youll find the perfect pair!
Each and every Earth Shoe is
Stop by the Joules booth at one
inspired by our founder, a Danish
of these upcoming tradeshows
Yoga Instructor, and her core
to view the full collection:
belief that wellness and healthy living should start from the ground
Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform,
up. For over 40 years, uncompromised comfort has been
Sole Commerce, Atlanta Shoe
combined with fashionable style to the delight of discerning women.
Market, Dallas STRUT.
Preview the Earthies by Earth Athena (pictured) and more at
www.joulesusa.com
FN Platform, Outdoor Retailer, Atlanta Shoe Market and FFANY.
www.earthbrands.com
The Aetrex Addison chukka boot is built using Lynco orthotic technology to
promote better support, balance and alignment. Its memory foam footbed
offers unparalleled cushion and comfort. With Aetrexs signature braid
detail, you get comfort and style all in one. Preview this style and more at
FN Platform and Outdoor Retailer. www.aetrex.com
Hispanitas footwear combines the expertise of Spains top shoe designers from
the Alicante regions tradition of high quality shoe manufacturing, a trendright European aesthetic, exceptional material detail, comfort engineered
into every pair and the heritage of a family owned and operated company.
Hispanitas shoes make a woman feel as wonderful as she looks, which is why
their motto is Joy Is A Choice. Choose Hispanitas! Visit us at Chicago Shoe
Restricted Footwear focuses on edgy elements of
Market, Atlanta Shoe Market, Northwest Market Association, FN Platform,
design and unique silhouettes while presenting
BSTA and Sole Commerce.
eye-catching details to the fashion-forward
www.hispanitas.com
consumer. The smart shoppers who like to

combine fashion and comfort with quality and a
great price always look to Restricted for the latest
shoe inspirations! Visit us at FFANY, Atlanta Shoe
Market, FN Platform, Atlanta Apparel, Chicago
Shoe Market, Dallas STRUT and many
other regional shows.
RestrictedShoes.com
Easy Street is a recognized innovator in all
categories of comfort footwear for over 50
years. New for 2017: studded booties and
shooties, including the Shiloh gray and
Ronda black with ultra-suede. The
stylish booties have built-in comfort
Tamaris, the best-known shoe brand in Europe,
has been making a name for itself in the U.S. since
2015. Tamaris combines premium quality,
excellent comfort and fit, and an exceptional
price/performance ratio in perfect synergy.
Dionysus, the fashionable double-buckle
bootie (#25344) in smooth suede leather and
with ANTIshokk heel technology is just one of the
many exceptionally stylish items in the Tamaris
range. See the complete collection at FFANY,
Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform, Michigan
Shoe Market, Sole Commerce, Chicago Shoe
Market and many other regional shows.
www.tamaris.com
innovations such as stretch-for-fit

gore and flexible soles. Available in
43 sizes and 4 widths (M, W & WW;
5-12). Open stock/in stock for Fall 17.
Visit us at: FN Platform and all
regional shows.
www.easystreetshoes.com
JambuKD continues to design with kids in mind for Fall 17. The
collection takes trending features, such as knitted materials and hi-top

lasts is the key to remaining relevant in todays marketplace. Just
because I believe we have a great product doesnt mean I think we
can rest on our laurels, especially because brand loyalty isnt the
same for younger people as maybe it once was with older generations, he explains. To remain relevant and competitive, a brand
has to actively stay immersed in the culture and ultimately tell its
customer it is adaptable and committed to fulfilling what theyre
looking for.
silhouettes for boys and ankle boots and ghillie lacing for girls, and adds
durable technology that allows for a unique collection for any
activity. See the line at Outdoor Retailer, BSTA, Transit Kids, Kentucky
Shoe Buying Market, Atlanta Shoe Market, Midwest Childrens Apparel
Group, Michigan Shoe Market, The Childrens Great Event Shoe Show,
Northwest Shoe Travelers Minneapolis and FFANY.
www.vidagroup.com
Shelf Help
Merchandising tips that bring the

outdoors to life. E.B.
I really believe in the concept of making an experience and telling a
compelling story. Color is important. If you group together a rich collectionlike the autumn colors Bordeaux, olive and tanyou will create
a cohesive story. Also, materials can be influential like rich suedes or
faux fur. It makes an impact when a customer enters into a department
and sees it on a shelf. Denise LeMons, senior designer, Bearpaw
Everything is so fast today. So anytime you can put a complete look
together (how that boot looks with an outfit), it makes the buying
decision so much easier. Its important to set your customer on the
right path and inspire them. Kate Wright, designer, Chooka
Embody a sense of adventure, a journey the customer wants to go
oneither virtually or physically. Emphasize the benefits of the product, be consistent with the branding and use video to tell your story.
Sue Meehan, global director of brand and e-commerce, Emu Australia
Western Chief s light-up LED kids boots are completely waterproof and
available in a variety of prints and colors. Each boot features 11
settings with multiple speeds and a rainbow of color options to
make rainy days brighter. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer, Atlanta Shoe
Market and FN Platform.
www.washingtonshoe.com
Everyone knows the consumers attention span is getting shorter

and shorter, so shelf appeal is key. Color is a huge deciding factor
and, ironically, color is much more subdued than two to three seasons
ago. The cleaner and more sophisticated, the better. Over-the-top
silhouettes are perceived as a desperate plea when surrounded by
clean lines and easy on/off versatile silhouettes. Carrie Hill, senior
design manager, Wolverine
We encourage retail partners to highlight the elements of each
style that lend themselves to everyday wear, in addition to the true
outdoor features and showing consumers through imagery how
they can seamlessly incorporate the shoes into their daily lifestyle.
Jim Walsh, senior director of innovation/active, Rockport
In the spotlight for Autumn 2017, Wolky blazes the boot trail
with its lightweight line that makes walking effortless. Focus is on
elegant comfort to help achieve the natural walk stride without
restrictions and with versatile styling. Wolky has been perfecting
the artisan craft of shoemaking with the motto, form follows the
function, for over 30 years. Come visit us at FN Platform, Atlanta
Shoe Market and regional shows. www.wolky.com
Helping consumers understand built-in technologies that wouldnt

necessarily be seen at first glance is critical. Use merchandising aids
like action photographs of top climbers and tactile displays of various
grips. For example, we use Continental tire rubber on the bottoms of
our performance footwear and have a merchandising display that
shows the tire and the shoes. Greg Thomsen, managing director,
Adidas Outdoor U.S.
Consumers today are savvy and will notice if youre just trying to
take advantage of the trend. So you really need to have authenticity
in the space. Storytelling is most important. If you can showcase whats
possible and inspire the consumer, then youre on the right track.
Hy Rosario, director of product, Teva
TWO
TEN
The
May
Event
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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT
Booting Up
Birkenstock broadens its
closed-toe collections.
NEWLY APPOINTED VICE president of merchandising Jacqueline

Van Dine says Birkenstocks days as
a sandals-only company are long
gone, noting that buyers will see an
expanded closed-toe collection for
Fall 17. Particularly well-received at
its FFANY show debut, Van Dine
says the category is a no-brainer
for the brand. Weve had tremendous success with our boots and
closed-toe product, she reports,
adding, Our consumer is giving us
permission to go into that space.
Van Dine says the new boots
feature beautiful rugged and rich,
boiled leathers. In total, 17 new
boots range in style from slouch to
knee-high equestrian silhouettes as
well as moto-style ankle booties
such as the Sarnia, Longford and
Stowe, respectively. In addition, new
mens boots for the season include
the Zurich in oiled leather and the
moto-inspired Hancock featuring
a heavy lug outsole. Regardless of
style or gender, the one trait consistent throughout the collection is
Birkenstocks cork footbed. Thats
our secret sauce, Van Dine says.
It works not only for our sandals
but also our closed-toe footwear.
Also new for fall is the Inuit

Collection of cozy fur styles. Inspired
by a trip to Greenland, 10 styles
and two childrens shoes consist
of quirky takes on Birkenstock
classicslike hair-lined Arizona
sandalsas well as new silhouettes,
such as the lace-up shearling Nuuk
boot. Its both the devotee who
wants the next limited-edition
Birkenstock as well as the fashionforward customer who wants to
see us push beyond our classics,
Van Dine explains. The goal is to
reach a broader audience, only in a
more exclusive retail setting. Our
strategy is to go after boutiques and
limited fashion accounts, she says.
We want the consumer who buys
it to know its special. Accordingly,
the price range is higher. Suggested
retail on the Nuuk, for example,
is $350.
Building off the fur introductions is Birkenstocks Shearling
Collection. We have new colors
in our Boston shearling clog as
well as the Arizona sandal, Van
Dine reports. On the kids front,
favorite womens styles will be
offered in a mommy-and-me
package featuring a fall wool clog
with faux-shearling lining.
In-house, Van Dine says the
expanded closed-toe program has
been dubbed Birkenstock 365. Its
the basis of how the brand aims
to reach the next level of growth
globally and become a year-round
business. We know that our sandal
program is extending well into
third quarter/back to school, and
weve had a lot of success with
our feminine styleslike thinner strapped wedges, she says.
Going forward, youll see more
Birkenstock DNA on the uppers
of our closed footwear...Were just
getting started. Ann Loynd
The Good Fight

Pozus ethically crafted
platform extends to Star Wars collab.
WITH THE TAGLINE,shoes with a good sole, Pozu is always improving on its ethically crafted footwear. The brand is known for the use of
such sustainable materials as cork, felt and organic cotton canvas, as well
as ethical manufacturing practices: Shoes are made in a small factory in
Portugal that employs 70 local workers who uphold a strict non-toxic policy
and recycle nearly all waste products. In keeping with that aim, Pozu is
introducing Piatex, a durable vegan faux leather that can be produced in
metallic colorways, for spring. And for this fall, it will debut a revamped
sole crafted from coconut husk and natural latex for a fashion-forward,
weather-ready capsule collection.
The cup sole is an updated version of the one weve had for many years,
says Sven Segal, brand founder. We thought it needed a more modern, clean
and fresh look. The result is side-stitched, glueless construction featuring
a 7mm shock-absorbing Foot Mattress insole for optimal comfort, style
and sustainability, he says.
The four-style capsule collection features two vegan stylesthe Slade
metallic Piatex slip-on and Heath T wool tweed hi-top, also available in
genuine leather options. Segal says Pozu is trying to reach a combination
of higher-end retailers beyond its heritage distribution with the new additions. We had great feedback from Anthropologie, he says, adding, Thats
the sort of customer were looking for.
While its relatively easy to make vegan shoes for spring collections (thanks
to lightweight materials like linen and cotton), Segal says its more of a challenge to find suitable materials for winter. However, with the introduction
of Piatex as well as incorporating cork more, he reports that over half of
the fall line is now vegan, making Pozu a year-round option for a growing
number of consumers seeking animal-free footwear.
Vegan shoes aside, Segal has high expectations that its new Star Wars x
Pozu collaboration will appeal to a broad range of consumers. Unlike other
iterations that take inspiration from the movie franchise, several of the
styles are high-quality replicas featured in the sagas latest film, Rogue One.
They are not costume pieces, rather everyday wearable replicas. Beyond
the association with Star Wars, the models are very commercial, Segal
says. We achieved a good balance between something that is inspired by
a film yet incredible wearable. Its a winning formula.
The styles feature Pozus comfort foot mattress and butterfly suspension mechanism designed to soften impact and, of course, pesticide-free
materials. The Rey, a mid-calf slip-on boot, is made from cork and tweed.
Another is the Resistance, featuring a rubberized rebel alliance badge
highly recognizable by any true Star Wars fanon a hi-top sneaker made
of organic cotton. Segal reports that feedback at the recent FFANY show
was, well, out of this world. Ive never seen buyers getting as excited ever
before in my 20 years in the industry, he says. A.L.
O&A
for Altard State as well as some for DSW and others. Thats a good way to
help my bottom line, but it doesnt help my brands. It might be a life vest
until things shakeout.
None of it seems particularly stable.
Nope. And who is watching out for the independent, old school retailer
these days? I dont think anybody is, and a lot of them might fall through
the cracks. I guess well see how it pans out. It almost makes me want to
open a store and do things the old-fashioned way: provide great customer
service, put shoes on peoples feet, bring out four pairs, offer them a free cup
of coffee It might just be a great way to launch a shoe store because no
one is really doing that these days. I believe a store done right in the right
areas could be very successful. The right area is key because thats another
challenge many retailers face today: ridiculous rents. Retailers cant make
any money paying $30,000 to $40,000 a month in mall rents. Retailers also
need to change some of their ways, too. There are not a lot of partnerships
anymore. They make demands like having to pay freight, guaranteeing a
58 percent margin and writing a check if anything goes wrong. And if you
dont like it, leave. New brands like mine are kind of at their mercy. Im not
a big enough to refuse those terms, and that hurts my margin, especially
when Im only taking a 40 percent margin to begin with. Its only going to
get tougher on wholesalers, because the
independents that do survive are likely
going to be more demanding.
I MORE THAN
DOUBLED MY
BUSINESS LAST
YEAR. THERES
STILL BUSINESS
TO BE HAD.
scott home,
fashion major
brands
Whats the solution, if any?

I go back to my trusted solution of doing
business the old-fashioned way: Offer
great product at great prices and service
the hell out of our accounts. Similarly,
retailers have to work harder, think more
outside the box and stop thinking only
about today. They have to think about next
year, because the brands they may have now
might be all over the place then. They have
to look for the next new brands instead
of saying, Oh, woe is me. They have to
figure something out. But it requires a lot
of work, and people often dont like a lot
of work. Its not as fun anymore.
What might the shoe store look like in

10 years?
Will it all be like Amazon Go? I hope not!
I think consumers in general still like the interaction with store clerks. That
said, I think you are going to see a lot more independent online shoe stores
and a lot of the brick-and-mortar retailers as we know them will be gone. The
new ones may be apparel stores with shoes as an accessory. There will always
be fashion boutiquesstores like Koko & Palenki in Miami that just opened
its fifth location. They really get this business.
Despite the myriad of challenges facing the industry, are you still an
optimist?
Im a huge optimist. I more than doubled my business last year. Theres
still business to be had. If anybody had product that was a little bit different and had a good handle on the trends, then I think they probably had a
good year. Im also planning for big growth this year, and eventually Id like
to see us get into the $100 million range. Id also like to open a showroom
as well as a flagship store in New York pretty quick and maybe a second
store in Los Angeles. In the meantime, were going to continue to build
good product and sell it to people at a fair price. Youve got to find a way
to bring a product to the consumer for cheaper, but not a cheaper product.
That was an old Nordstrom saying and a favorite of my dads. Youve got to
give people reasons to buy from you. It can involve a little design tweak, but
price often seems to be a deciding factor. But Im not talking about selling
cheap shoesshowing someone product and then taking the leather lining
out or changing it to pigskin. Its about not being greedy on the margin. To
be perfectly blunt, there are a lot of whores in our business: guys making
70- to 80-percent markups before they sell to retailers. Our owners will not
let me take more than a 40-percent markup and they only want me to pay
them back 20 percent. Thats unheard of today. But thats why our prices
are so low yet the quality is high.
Do you possess a gut feeling about shoes by this pointsomething that
tells you a style will be big?
Its pretty much based on history and tradition, because the fashion industry keeps regurgitating itself. So you can relate to the trends that will likely
follow again, but thats not always a guarantee. That aside, I believe at this
point I can tell if a last is good or not for a particular shoe, if the heel height
is right, etc. And while I cant draw a stick man, I can tell our designers what
they need to draw and can amend their drawings, if needed.
You could have retired by now, what keeps you coming into work each day?
I can bitch all day about this business, but I truly love it. And Im not the
kind of guy that relaxes much. When I get home at night, its around 10 p.m.
and our Spanish office is opening for business. So Im often emailing until
1 a.m. Then I get up at 5 a.m., go to the gym and start working right after.
I just like to work a lot. Its probably due to all that wood I chopped on the
hill with my dad.
feet love
wolky
E - B E AT
BUYER CHAT
Kevin Leffler
Appalachian Outfitters
Channel Surfing
User-friendly software helps retailers sell
through third-party channels.
Robert Yeganeh, director of sales for

Commerce Blitz.
THIRD-PARTY SELLING on sites

like Amazon, Walmart, eBay, etc., can
be an effective way to reach consumers beyond a smaller retailers physical and online reach. But the process is
not without its logistical challenges, as
many retailers are busy trying to manage their primary channels. Not to mention, the rigorous regulations of these
third-party retailers leave little room for
error. Enter the software program by
Commerce Blitz, which manages order
fulfillment and inventory management
automatically, allowing storeowners to
focus their attention where its needed
mostin their stores.
No one has time to jockey spreadsheets and upload them twice a day
after actually doing all the work, says
Robert Yeganeh, director of sales for
Commerce Blitz, adding that mistakes
can be costlyat least three percent
of orders are spoiled by human error,
and that ultimately impacts the shipper. You make one wrong click, digit or
dash, and itll deprive you from Amazons
buy box, he says, adding, The less you
touch things and make a potential mistake, the more profitable you can be at
the end of the year.
Commerce Blitz, Yeganeh explains,
enables retailers (and wholesalers) to sell
through third-party channels by access-
ing a single interface designed to take

over the physical input of data and thus,
minimizing human error. The license
fee is approximately $600 per month.
In addition, theres a setup fee for each
channel and a monthly charge of $100
per channel plus the third partys respective fees. But thats like paying rent, says
Yeganeh, the former owner of Love My
Shoes chain in New York. Its still much
cheaper than running a brick-and-mortar store. And what would take a brickand-mortar three to five years to achieve,
we can create a presence online within
one year at very little cost.
Yeganeh believes Commerce Blitz is
worth the investment. With foot traffic
declining in stores as well as online, the
softwares ability to manage third-party
selling helps retailers gain a broader reach.
Retailers can throw their money into
opening more brick-and-mortar stores,
or they could spend a tenth of that cost
and invest in our software to have their
products viewed by millions of eyes overnight, he says.
While faced with competitors like
Channel Advisor and Frogfish Solutions,
Yeganeh says Commerce Blitz not only
has more reasonable rates but contains
a more comprehensive inventory system.
We can control the inventory from all
the products on these channels so you
can allocate what goes to which channel, therefore you can limit and manage
the inventory properly, he says. We also
can do fulfillments for you.
As a former independent retailer for
nearly four decades, Yeganeh understands the importance of user-friendly
software. He also appreciates a solution
that presents easy expansion opportunities
for minimal investment, dropship capabilities and branding tools. Honestly,
Commerce Blitz is so simple to use it
really should be called retail for dummies, Yeganeh says. Emily Beckman
APPALACHIAN OUTFITTERS IS more

than a job, its a lifestyle, asserts Kevin Leffler,
executive buyer for the Ohio-based specialty
stores. Leffler, who has been with the company for more than a decade, fell in love with
the outdoor industry when he began working
on the sales floor. It was just a natural progression to become a buyer, he says.
From a first-time hiker to an experienced
outdoorsman, Leffler ensures every customer finds what they need
at Appalachian Outfitters two storesthe flagship in Peninsula,
near the Cuyahoga Valley National Park, and a new store in Lodis
historic Ohio Station Mall. Each house a vast selection of outdoor
apparel and equipment. The footwear assortment includes Merrell,
OluKai, Keen, Reef, Teva and Sorel. Leffler takes pride in procuring
trustworthy products, giving the knowledgeable sales staff a good
brand story to tell. The outdoor customer is not necessarily a top
peak athlete, but that doesnt mean they dont appreciate quality
products, he says.E.B.
Who is the Appalachian Outfitters customer? They tend to be
slightly older, 45 and up. We are in a fairly affluent area, so many
have a good amount of disposable income and are going places. They
may not be summiting K2, but they are trekking from city to city in
Europe. Or perhaps theyre climbing Kilimanjaro with a guide group.
What sold well this fall? Not having snow and cold definitely changed
the mood. We sold more hiking and backpacking boots than normal,
as well as more casual shoes and even some sandals. We did well with
Lowa, Oboz, OluKai and Sorel.
What are your looking for in a shoe? I hone in on the end use. Hows
it going to perform in the field? Theres only a finite amount of room,
and if I want to add a shoe, something else has to go. Is this shoe a
suitable replacement for what Im getting rid of? Is it in the same
price range? Once I find it fits a purpose, I narrow down by aesthetics.
What was one of your best buying decisions of late? Limiting the
insoles we carried from three or four brands to Superfeet. It gave
the sales staff the opportunity to tell one story with consistency. It
helped Superfeet sales and throughout the department because telling
consistent stories builds credibility and rapport. You never want to
have a sales associate telling customers 10 contradictory things.
What might you do differently this year? We are looking more at
how vendors go about protecting dealers. During the week before
Thanksgiving, a handful of vendors went 20- to 30-percent off on
their websites. We noticed a dramatic decrease in sales during that
period compared to what weve seen historically. With brands that
held price on their sites, we saw huge growth. So, going forward, were
looking to avoid competing with our brands because theres no way a
store can compete with a manufacturer on margin. We want to build
partnerships with brands that appreciate the business we give them,
unlike ones that cut our legs out from beneath us.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2017

7: 3 0 A M 9 A M
RENAISSANCE WAVERLY HOTEL

CHANCELLOR ROOM
$ 1 0 P E R P E R S O N B R E A K FA S T W I L L B E S E R V E D.
$ 1 0 W I L L B E R E F U N D E D AT T H E D O O R .
LA ST W O RD
Better Days
New Years
Resolutions
DAVID KAHAN
ADAM TUCKER
CEO, Birkenstock Americas

To take definite steps to ensure decisions
are being made both from a experiential/
insight-driven point-of-view and with any
analytics that may help support a position.
We have a team with great industry experience, and the more we blend that with data
we receive from retail results, the better we
can make smart decisions that serve our
consumers. Also, to watch one TED talk
every week, read Simon Sinek and Michael
Lewis books, meditate five minutes twice
daily and crank up music each day that
inspires me to actualize myself.
President, Me Too and

Adam Tucker Shoes
To, in the immortal words of legendary
basketball coach Jim Valvano, Dont
give up, dont ever give up.
Sherwayne Mahoney
Designer, Things II Come
To challenge myself and the brand to
test growth possibilities internationally,
to learn more about diversity marketing
to open new opportunities for Things
II Come, and to expand my network to
strengthen key relationships that will
benefit our company.
EDWARD KANNER
Leaders across
the industr y vow to
make 2017 a year of
improved efficiency
and increased
profitability, all while
striking a healthier
work-life balance.
Gary Weiner
President, Saxon Shoes
To work with old and new vendors who have
brand equity at the top of their lists, while getting
rid of vendors that do not focus on long-term
relationships and margins for them and us. Also,
to tighten inventory and turn it faster at higher
margins, with a goal of buying more goods
throughout the season.
CEO, Kanner Corp., distributors of Gabor,

Finn Comfort and Think!
To take a little time out to try and achieve
that delicate and seemingly elusive lifework balance. Or, as my father used to say:
Run the business, but dont let it run you.
A little time off can revitalize the mind and
spirit to tackle business with renewed vitality,
whereas a tired mind and body can lead to
detrimental decisions and results.
Gary Hauss
Owner, J. Stephens
To see vendors and retailers come
together to make brick-and-mortar
stronger and for it to truly work like a
partnership.
BETH BARTHOLOMEW
Senior Director of Sales Development,
Earth Shoes
To keep delivering a tremendous product
of great style and comfort that is perfect
for our independent retailers, whom I
have a huge passion and commitment to
helping succeed.
Mark Jubelirer
President, Reyers Shoe Store
To change our TV advertising strategy.
My brother Steven and I have appeared
as spokespersons in our commercials
for the past several decades, but now
we have hired a ringer to take our place.
Shes a beautiful, young woman who
used to sell shoes at Reyers. Were going
to make her a star!
ANDY GILBERT
CEO, RG Barry
To accelerate growth and frictionless
execution.
President, Genesco Licensed Brands

To work inspired!Meaning, to workhard
to inspire others and to be inspired by
others.Life is too short to work uninspired.
When we are driven by the same goals and
have an open mind, we can accomplish
most anything.
JAN BRINKMANN
Karl Moehring
President, Tamaris USA

To talk less and listen more! To plan less
and do more! Meaning, if the wind will not
serve you, take to the oars.
CEO, Washington Shoe Company

To procrastinate less and to not
overthink things.
Greg Tunney
Joshua Bingaman
Designer, Helm Boots
To get more face time with our customers
at our new flagship in Austin, to visit
more of our retailers and to have our
staff eat more vegetables.
Bella~Vita
NEW VINTAGE FALL 17
46 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS

IN-STOCK & OPEN-STOCK
1-800-970-8482

Footwear Plus January 2017

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OUTDOOR PREVIEW : HERITAGE HIKERS

UPDATED CLASSICS ARE ALL THE RAGE

SCOTT HOME ON BUILDING BRANDS THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY

Come And Experience Earth At These Upcoming Shows:

Style Featured: Earth Malta

SEE THE BORN FALL 2017 COLLECTIONS at

201 6 PLUS AWARDS

Congratulations to All Nominees

c Sarah Jessica Parker

BEST SNEAKER COLLAB

c Riccardo Tisci x Nike

BRAND OF THE YEAR

On the cover: Velvet

36 Tried and True

42 The New Classics

This page: Penny

DEPA RTM ENTS

6 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

these boots are

8 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

Platform, Surf Expo, North West Buyers, WCTS

SCENE & HEARD

10 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

Making the world a little more bootie full

COTT HOME KNOWS a

Im not necessarily proud of because I often had

chains mix that spanned Nike

Upstage any downpour.

The Rockport Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Outdoor Retailer I Atlanta Shoe Market I FN PLATFORM

OFF THE CUFF

where Home had been brought in to launch

First of all, unless you are Steve Madden

43 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS

HINGS COULDNT HAVE been going much better for

1. Restricted 2. Pikolinos 3. Ariat 4. Durango 5. Earth 6. Naot 7. FCC New York

18 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

2017 january footwearplusmagazine.com 19

1. Earth 2. Blossom 3. Keds 4. Seven Dials 5. Khombu 6. Pikolinos

20 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

1. LArtiste 2. Musse & Cloud 3. Bella Vita

22 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

1. Sorel 2. Birkenstock 3. Sebago 4. Joules 5. Lamo 6. Cat 7. Ugg 8. Merrell

24 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

2017 january footwearplusmagazine.com 25

1. BC 2. Chelsea Crew 3. Bella Vita 4. Musse & Cloud

26 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

BE FIRST IN LINE TO SEE

Jan. 10 - Jan. 12, 2017 Feb. 21 - Feb. 23, 2017

To make an appointment contact your local

1. Helm Boots 2. Woolrich 3. Clarks 4. Thursday Boot Company

28 footwearplusmagazine.com january 2017

FEB 2123, 2017

LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER

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FEB 27MAR 1, 2017