JEWELLERY

The word jewellery itself is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicized from
the Old French "jouel", and beyond that, to the Latin word "jocale", meaning
plaything.
Jewellery consists of small decorative items worn for personal adornment, such as
brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. Jewellery may be attached to the
body or the clothes, and the term is restricted to durable ornaments, excluding flowers
for example. For many centuries metal, often combined with gemstones, has been the
normal material for jewellery, but other materials such as shells and other plant
materials may be used. It is one of the oldest type of archaeological artifact with
100,000-year-old beads made from Nassarius shells thought to be the oldest known
jewellery.

Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials. Gemstones and similar
materials such as amber and coral, precious metals, beads, and shells have been
widely used, and enamel has often been important. In most cultures jewellery can be
understood as a status symbol, for its material properties, its patterns, or for
meaningful symbols.

Humans have used jewellery for a number of different reasons:

functional, generally to fix clothing or hair in place, or to tell the time (in the case
of watches)
as a marker of social status and personal status, as with a wedding ring
as a signifier of some form of affiliation, whether ethnic, religious or social
to provide talismanic protection (in the form of amulets)
as an artistic display
as a carrier or symbol of personal meaning such as love, mourning, or even luck

COSTUME JEWELLERY

Costume jewelry, trinkets, fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or fallalery is
jewelry manufactured as ornamentation to complement a particular fashionable
costume or garment as opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry which may be regarded
primarily as collectibles, keepsakes, or investments.

COSTUME JEWELLERY: COMPONENTS

Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones,

such as rhinestones or lucite, set in pewter, silver, nickel or brass. During the
depression years, rhinestones were even down-graded by some manufacturers to meet
the cost of production.

During the World War II era, sterling silver was often incorporated into costume
jewelry designs primarily because:

1. The components used for base metal were needed for war time production (i.e.,
military applications) and a ban was placed on their use in the private sector.
2. Base metal was originally popular because it could approximate platinum's color,
sterling silver fulfilled the same function.

This resulted in a number of years during which sterling silver costume jewelry was
produced and some can still be found in today's vintage jewelry marketplace.

Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High end crystals,
cubic zirconia simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place
of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, and sometimes vermeil
or sterling silver. Lower-priced jewelry may still use gold plating over pewter, nickel
or other metals; items made in countries outside the United States may contain lead.
Some pieces incorporate plastic, acrylic, leather or wood.

COSTUME JEWELLERY: HISTORY

Costume jewelry can be characterized by the period in history in which it was made.

Art Deco period (19201930s)

The Art Deco movement was an attempt to combine the harshness of mass production
with the sensitivity of art and design. It was during this period that Coco Chanel
introduced costume jewelry to complete the costume. The Art Deco movement died
with the onset of the Great Depression and the outbreak of World War II.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art
Deco period were:

Free-flowing curves were replaced with a harshly geometric and symmetrical

theme
Long pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings, and elaborate accessory items
such as cigarette cases and holders

Retro period (1935 to 1950)

In the Retro period, designers struggled with the art versus mass production dilemma.
Natural materials merged with plastics. The retro period primarily included American-
made jewelry, which has a distinct American look. With the war in Europe, many
European jewelry firms were forced to shut down. Many European designers
emigrated to the U.S. since the economy was recovering.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Retro
period were:

Glamour, elegance, and sophistication

Flowers, bows, and sunburst designs with a Hollywood flair
Moonstones, horse motifs, military influence, and ballerinas
Bakelite and other plastic jewelry

Art Modern period (1945 to 1960)

In the Art Modern period following World War II, jewelry designs became more
traditional and understated. The big, bold styles of the Retro period went out of style
and were replaced by the more tailored styles of the 1950s and 1960s.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art
Modern period were:

Bold, lavish jewelry

Large, chunky bracelets, charm bracelets, Jade/opal, charm bracelets, citrine,
topaz
Poodle pins, Christmas tree pins, and other Christmas jewelry
Rhinestones

With the advent of the Mod period came "Body Jewelry". Carl Schimel of Kim
Craftsmen Jewelry was at the forefront of this style. While Kim Craftsmen closed in
the early 1990s, many collectors still forage for their items at antique shows and flea
markets.
The Boston Museum of Fine Art recently displayed Carl Schimel's "Chastity Belt"
created in 1969 in their "When High Fashion Inhaled The '60s'Hippie Chic'" at
MFA. This piece and exhibit was reviewed by Gregg Cook of Boston NPR "Carl
Schimels circa 1969 base metal Chastity Beltdisplayed here atop a black body
stockingimitates medieval designs in its erotic chains and medallion.