Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
By S. A. Kauas, Sc.D.
Bronxville8, N.Y.
:i:i?i.fume,
the discc;loration
of cos- The oils used were mineral and
?'irnetics,
theirpreservation,
the last- sesame. The aromatic chemicals
;.:..,:.::
ingqualityof perfume, and other and essential oils listed below were
Ji'v:
subjects;but thereis no mention added separately to the five above
:":".::
of the actionof perfumeon the sta- emulsions. In sodoing,115 experi-
i!7)i
57bilityofemulsions. mentswere performed(21 perfum-
Let us now consider the effect of ing ingredients
addedseparatelyto
';?::!..5
thatlastbutnotleastimportantin- each of the five emulsions thus re-
517..:'
gredient
intheformula,
perfume.
It suitingin 105 experimentsand 10
555:/wasnoticed that the emulsionswere controls not perfumed). In the
.:-,..
i:'":'::
superior
whenthe perfumeingredi- dispersionof the oils, laboratory
:::,::
entswere controlledwith care. By high speedEpenbachcolloidalmills
5711ji::changing
theingredients
in com-were used.
i:i:i
i pounding
theperfume
orbyhaving
them suppliedby an outside firm, Atromatic Chemicals
theemulsions
werethusoftenren- 1. PhenylethylAlcohol
:::::i::
deredunsatisfactory.
In viewof 2. Hydroxycitronellal
"
:5. this fact, severalexperimentswere 3. Terpineol
performedwhichare outlinedin the 4. BenzylAcetate
5. Linalyl Acetate
following
discussion.
Fivedifferent 6. Geraniol
typesof emulsions
were made, and 7. Linalool
the effectsupon them of 11 aromatic 8. BenzylAlcohol
chemicals and 10 essential oils were 9. Methyl Ionone
10. AmylcinnamicAldehyde
studied. 11. Methyl Anthranilate
" In the following discussion,the 12. Controlnot perfumed
word "separation" is synonymous
with theword"breaking." Essential Oils
1. Geranium
SUMMARY OF EXPERIMENTS
2. Bergamot
To make the emulsions,the in- 3. Lavender
gredientswerethosemostcommonly 4. Orange(sweet)
usedin the cosmeticindustry. The 5. Patchouly
emulsionwas the liquid O/W type 6. Vetivert (Bourbon)
7. Sandalwood
madewith surface-activeagentsand 8. Neroli (Bigarade)
also two emulsifiers of natural ori- 9. Rose de Mai
gin, all favoring O/W emulsions. 10. Ylang Ylang
These emulsifiers were as follows: 11. Controlnot perfumed
1. Triethanolamine Stearate
Experiment_r--Emulsionswith
2. Castilesoap,powdered Triethanolamine
3. Duponol ME (sodium lauryl
sulfate) 50 gm. Triethanolamine
4. Lecithin soybeans (phospho- 150 gm. Stearic Acid (triple-
lipid) pressed)
5. Gum Arabic (pentosancolloid) 3000 cc. Distilled Water
376 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
?;jExperiment
Ik--Emulsions
with EXPLANATION OF TABLE 1
Lecithin
1. Emulsions with Trierhanoi-
100 cc. Mineral Oil
amine Stearate without aromatic
90 cc. SesameOil
10gin.Lecithin soybean dis- chemicalslasted five days. With
'"'.": solved at 70C. the additionof PhenylethylAlcohol,
(!!?:
' in thetwooils Hydroxycitronellal, and Geraniol,
300 cc. Distilled water
5 cc. Aromaticchemicals
or their life was short, less than one
;':':' essential
oils hour. With the remaining aro-
matic chemicals,the emulsionsstood
i'!i:i'The
emulsions
with Phenylethylfor five days. Note the shortening
AlcoholandHydroxycitronellal
were of the life of the emulsions under
superiorand lastedfor five days. the effect of the three chemicals.
i:':.Emulsionswith Linalyl Acetate, 2. The life of the emulsions with
Geraniol,Linalool,BenzylAlcohol,soap was lengthenedfrom two to
andMethyl Iononewereonly stable more than seven days by all the
for two days. Separationwas im- aromatic chemicalsexcept Benzyl
mediatewith Amyl Cinnamic Aide- Alcoholand Methyl Anthranilate.
hydeandMethylAnthranilate. The 3. The life of the Duponol emul-
emulsionwith Bergamot.lastedfive sionswas shortenedto two days in
days as long as the control. The comparisonwith four days in the
sampleswith other essential oils caseof the control. The Hydroxy-
werestableonlyfor two days. citrondial separatedthe emulsion
after two hours. The life of this
Experimentk--Emulsionswith emulsionwas shortenedto two days
Gum/irabic
with Linalyl Acetate, Geraniol,
300 cc. 5% Gum Arabic water Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol and
solution
100 cc. Mineral Oil Methyl Ionone. No effect was ob-
100 cc. Sesame Oil served with Phenylethyl Alcohol
5 cc. Aromatic chemicals or and Hydroxycitronellal.
essential oils 4. The Gum Arabic emulsions
were broken by Hydroxycitronellal
After emulsification,
immediatesep-
and BenzylAlcohol.
aration was noted with Hydroxy-
citrondialandBenzylAlcohol.Dis-
EXPLANATION OF TABLE 2
coloration occurred with Methyl
Anthranilate, and creaming was 1. The life of the Triethanolamine
observed.Amyl Cinnamic Aide- emulsions with Geranium, Laven-
hydeandMethyl Iononeseparated der, Sandalwood,and Rose de Mai
after three days. The emulsions was short, lasting only two hours.
in the controllingbottle lastedfive This is similar to the aromatic chem-
days. The essential oils did not icals of a rose character such as
causeseparationof emulsionswith PhenylethylAlcohol, and Geraniol.
Gum Arabic. 2. The soapemulsionswith most
378 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
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EFFECT OF CHEMICALS ON STABILITY OF EMULSIONS 379
(.o (33 _1 o , o3 z a:
38O JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS