Designing

your garden
Design principles

Themes

Focal points

Hard landscaping

Planning

Building a contemporary
garden

Building a retaining wall

and seat

Building a pathway

Building an arch

Adding a water feature

Planting a hedge

Planting

Garden, Plants & Garden Storage 1

2
Contents

Design principles .................................................................. 2

Themes ................................................................................ 8

Focal points ........................................................................... 11

Hard landscaping ................................................................. 12

Planning .............................................................................. 14

Building a contemporary garden .............................................. 16

Building a retaining wall and seat ............................................. 19

Building a pathway ................................................................ 24

Building an arch .................................................................... 26

Adding a water feature ............................................................ 29

Planting a hedge .................................................................... 32

Planting ................................................................................ 34

1

Design principles
There are many aspects to planning a garden. Form, scale,
proportion, colour, texture and a focal point all need to
considered.
FORM
The form of a plant or object
refers to its shape and structure.
Different shapes have different
effects. For example, dramatic
forms attract attention while
softer, rounded forms create
a restful environment. Due
consideration for form can
lead to pleasing silhouettes
and dynamic spaces that help
create a comfortable garden.
CHOOSING TREES
A well-chosen and well-placed
tree can link a house to a
garden and prevent the house
from dominating the design.
Apart from adding scale and
structure to a garden design,
a trees bulk and foliage can
prevent a garden from looking
2
too fussy -- as well as provide
shade or flowers or both.
The type of tree you choose
is important and should be
thoroughly researched before
planting begins. Think about
form and contrast in foliage
Building a garden
from scratch ca
n be
a dauting task, bu
t
using the variou
s
aspects of gard
en
design anyone ca
n
plan, design and
build their own
magnificent gard
en.
when making your selection.
A tall slender tree will lift the
eye beyond the border while
a rounder or flatter tree will
balance vertical elements. A
flatter tree will provide a large
area of shade but could end
up blocking out the sun from
a patio or pool area. Often
the form of the tree itself will
provide enough contrast without
the need for conspicuous
foliage or flowers (which, in the
wrong context, could result in a
jarring design).
CHOOSING PLANTS on a particular spot in your
garden. Containers, for
example, play an important
role in less colourful gardens.
Decor items such as garden
furniture, fountains, statues and
birdbaths, all of which come in
various forms, can add instant
uniformity to a design, but
should fit in with the theme of
the garden and take scale and
proportion into consideration.
look of aloes or agaves, plus
add texture and contrast to the
design.
Form plants, trees and statues
can be enhanced at night by
clever use of garden lighting.
It adds that special touch,
making the garden seem to
come alive after dark.

USING FORM IN THE GARDEN

When creating a group of
plants, always choose an odd
While spectacular blooms number (1, 3, 5, or 7). Avoid
grab our attention, the shape even numbers.
of leaves and plants also plays
an important part in the overall
appearance of a garden. A
plant can be upright and spiky
or round and bushy, and varied
effects can be obtained by
either grouping plants of similar
form together, mixing different
forms, or using a small group or
a single plant as a focal point.

CHOOSING PLANT DECOR

Landscapers group plants of

Plants or garden ornaments
with a specific shape can
be used to focus attention
different ages together for that
instant garden look. To get
different heights of the same
species, consider staggering
the planting it might take a
bit longer before you reach the
desired effect, but the amount
you have to spend on buying
grown plants will be reduced.
Form plants stand out more
if theyre planted together
with contrasting vegetation.
For example, a light lacy
groundcover will enhance the
3
 LINE SCALE AND PROPORTION
Using strong lines in a garden
can help to create a sense of
PLANTS
direction and movement. The
eye will naturally follow the line
provided by an edged path, a
curved flowerbed, the profile
of plants against a flat wall, or
a low wall itself. Sweeping,
bold lines and curves have
a restful effect and are much
more pleasing to the eye
than small zigzags and wavy
lines. When used in the right
manner, jagged diagonals and
vertical lines create excitement
and tension, but they must be
intentional if the overall effect is
to be pleasing and not jarring.

Hard landscaping (creating

actual structures) is the easiest
way to lead the eye, but
the same can be done with
planned planting. The best
example is a hedge as it will
lead the eye however it is used,
whether as edging or midway
in a bed or as a containing line
for the side of a garden.
When choosing what plants forward with plants behind it to
to put in your garden, it is give the appearance of more
essential to find out how big space beyond, rather than at
they will grow before planning the bottom of a small garden
where to put them. Think of the which would emphasise its short
space a tree would take up length.
when fully grown. A 12-metre
tree would drown a small
garden and, if badly placed,
could prevent harmonious
design in a large garden.

DECOR
Keep decor items simple and
in proportion to the spaces
around them. This will unify
and enhance a garden.
Place a focal point, such as
a fountain in a small garden,
4
COLOUR
COLOUR WHEEL
Whether you choose to have a
white garden, one of soothing
pastel shades, or one with
bold complementary hues,
colour is important in garden
design. In fact, landscapers
consider colour, along with
form, line, scale, proportion
and texture, a basic element
of garden design. The colours
you choose will influence the
overall mood of the garden.
Combining blue, purple and
green can make a garden
look cool and inviting on a hot
summers day, whereas using
red, orange and yellow can
make a garden look warm and
cosy on a chilly winters day.

Like a painter, a garden planted together, or a lovely

designer needs to have some
understanding of the colour
wheel. The primary colours (red,
blue, yellow) and secondary
colours (orange, green, purple)
lie opposite each other on
the colour wheel and can be
used together to create bold
contrasts.Imagine bright yellow
daffodils and bold red tulips
purple plectranthus planted
against a brightly painted
orange wall. Colours close to
each other on the colour wheel
are more harmonious when
together and create a restful,
calming atmosphere. Neutral
colours such as white, grey
and silver allow for a transition
between hues.

5
COOL AND WARM COLOURS
Artists use cool colours (blue,
purple and green) to create
perspective in a painting, and
they can be used the same
way in a garden. They are the
relaxing colours and will make
a small space appear large.
Warm colours (red, orange
and yellow), on the other hand,
make more of a statement.
They appear to come forward
in a landscape and act as
focal points. You can create the
illusion of a larger space and
push back the boundaries of a
garden by using cool colours at
the far ends and warm colours
near the front.
Colour can be added to hard
landscaping features such
as walls, furniture, paving,
flower boxes and pots, garden
gates, benches, fences, water
features and other structures.
With plants, there is more to
consider. A plants flowers and
foliage can be of different
colours, plus they change with
the seasons and in different
light. Using a lot of strong
6
colour can become repetitive
and destroy the impact you
wish to create. Moving
between cool colours and
warm colours will create more
interest. Dotting colours about
is unsettling; it is best to create
sweeps of colour to heighten
the impact. By designing your
garden with colour in mind, you
will enhance its mood.
textures can be placed together
TEXTURE
In planning a garden it
is important not to leave
out texture. The roughness
or smoothness of things is
perceived primarily by touch.
However, simply by looking
at things a person can get an
idea of their textures and what
they would feel like. Texture in
the garden can be provided by
the plants, earth, ornamentation
or hard landscaping, such as
pathways and walls.
PLANTS
Combining plants with different
textures creates visual and
sensual interest. Plants with
coarse textures are dominant
and tend to be used in informal
gardens, while plants with
smooth textures are more
passive and associated with
formal gardens. Combining
the two sets a balance. But
remember that too many finely
textured plants will become
a blur, while too many
boldly textured plants can be
overwhelming. Plants with
the same colour but different
to contrast with each other
just remember to consider their
off-season look as well as their
in-bloom effect.
PLANT TYPES
Plants fall into different
categories when it comes to
texture.
LACY, FINELY-TEXTURED
PLANTS
These plants usually have fine,
small leaves and/or blossoms.
They are light and wispy and
complement boldly leafed
plants by accentuating their
form and texture.
BOLD LEAVES
These can either have a coarse
or smooth texture and are the
attention-grabbers.
WAXY LEAVES
Shiny, waxy leaves can be
seen in types of trees and
shrubs, down to thick juicy
succulents. A very versatile
texture for creating interest and
contrast in a garden.
FEATHERY FOLIAGE
Feathery plants such as ferns
have a soft, flowing effect.
FURRY LEAVES
Furry leaves provide a
wonderful contrast and make
people want to touch them,
especially children.
SOFT SPIKES (GRASS-LIKE)
Grasses not only have
wonderful texture, but provide
movement as well. They can
appear sharp but are really soft
to the touch.
SHARP SPIKES (SWORD-LIKE)
Sharply spiked plants are
often used as focal points in a
garden.
TEXTURE
Use what you already
have in the garden. The
branches from a tree
that has been cut down
are wonderful to add to
garden beds. Not only
are they aesthetically
pleasing, but they also
provide refuge for small
animals and insects. Use
bits of bark from cut trees
as mulch.
Use 1/3 lacy, soft plants
with 2/3 bold, coarse
plants when combining
textures in the garden. This
will give you a balance
of textures rather than an
overwhelming amount of
one or the other. Fired Earth
paint will give you options
to choose from.
Painted outdoor walls
are a blank canvas just
waiting for you to add
texture. Using paint effects
or a specific type of paint,
you can change a plain
wall into a wonderfully
textured one.
Increase your use of
interesting groundcovers in
place of lawns. Water-
wise groundcovers are
less thirsty and require less
maintenance than grass
and add great texture to
the garden.
7
 Here are some
popular garden
themes to help yo
u.
Get inspired and
look
in magazines an
d
books to find wha
t
will suit you and
your family.

Themes
Whether starting a garden from scratch or redesigning an existing
garden, proper planning will ensure successful harmony. A good
start would be to think of a theme for the garden. It could be
one you just like or even a combination of themes. For example,
you could decide on different themes for your front and back
gardens. Having a theme lets you focus on one idea rather than
be confused by too many ideas. Themes can be either formal or
informal.

FORMAL AND ENGLISH COTTAGE GARDEN

INFORMAL GARDENS
Formal gardens are created
using geometric shapes laid out
with mathematical precision.
The plants are arranged,
moulded, clipped and trimmed
according to rigid guidelines
Traditionally, English cottage
to draw attention to their form.
We impose our will on nature, gardens were planted by
making us the stars and the peasants who wanted them
plants the supporting cast. to be both practical and
aesthetically pleasing. Herbs
and fruit trees were included
Informal gardens lean towards among rose bushes, perennial
the natural where things are flowers and vine-covered
more chaotic, but by the nature arbours. Later the style became
of design we work to improve
trendy with wealthier people
on what comes naturally.
and later still with the rest of the
world.
8
JAPANESE GARDENS INDIGENOUS GARDENS

The use of indigenous plants,

or a combination of indigenous
and exotic plants, can attract
more than the usual amount of
garden wildlife. Local plants
Japanese garden designers are experts at incorporating miniature also require less water than
versions of natural landscapes into a garden. Symbolism plays exotic species to survive.
an important role raked sand resembling the sea, rocks Purists argue that indigenous
representing durability, water tranquillity, and so on. Features gardens should contain plants
outside the garden are also borrowed to become part of the that are specific to the locality,
design. but with the huge number of
indigenous species available it
MINIMAL/LOW MAINTENANCE GARDENS is sometimes difficult to restrict
yourself this way.

Colour can be used to

great effect in garden
design. A popular option
is to use only plants with
white flowers in either
a formal or an informal
design. The modern trend
is to focus on exciting
displays, such as lime and
black foliage, or a mass
of purple flowers against a
A minimalist design can be low maintenance. If this is your goal, light blue or orange wall.
choose your plants carefully. Use groundcovers with generous This focus on colour can
amounts of mulch instead of lawn, and make use of hard be elevated to guide your
landscaping features such as walls, pathways and patios that theme as opposed to just
require less maintenance than plants. A few striking plants will informing your planning as
enhance the design. A minimalist design focuses on getting more a design element.
for less work.
9
SUCCULENT GARDENS TROPICAL GARDENS

Creating a desert garden in a suburban environment can be quite Tropical gardens need plenty
a challenge, especially if you want it to emulate a dramatic natural of water, rich soil and warm,
landscape. You, however, are the master of your garden and there humid conditions ideal for
are few plant types that give you as many forms and textures to the subtropical regions of our
work with as desert succulents. Succulents are water-wise, hardy, country. Choose your plants
colourful, low maintenance once established, and easy to grow carefully if you live in an area
from cuttings. This makes them ideal for modern lifestyles, on top with severe frosts. The leaves
of which they also complement modern architecture. of tropical plants are typically
larger than those of species
that have adapted to survive
MEDITERRANEAN GARDENS periods of drought. Lush, leafy
tropical vegetation contrasts
perfectly with plants such as
orchids with their spectacular
sprays of flowers.

A Mediterranean-style garden is a garden of the sun. Its elements

could include a patio, a grape-covered arbour, a trickling fountain,
statues and plenty of sun-loving plants such as olive and citrus
trees, lavender, rosemary or bougainvillea. The grey foliage and
waxy or hairy leaves of these species are ideal for this type of
climate. Mediterranean gardens do well in the winter rainfall
regions of the country.
10
 Focal points
A well-positioned focal point in a garden is guaranteed to become
a talking point. Any striking object or plant, used singly or in a
group, can create a focal point, but for maximum impact it should
suit the style of the home and garden.

DECOR HARD LANDSCAPING Be wary of including

too many focal points as
they will confuse the eye.
Instead of drawing it in a
deliberate direction they
will distract it and thus
spoil the experience.

PLANTS

For a wild garden you might

Choose a bench, birdbath or
statue which complements your
theme. Even a water feature
or pond can be used to great
effect as a focal point.
This could be a pergola, a
gazebo, an arch, a stone wall
or a water feature.
want to stay away from decor
elements. Rather choose
interesting plants, such as a
cycad or three. Swathes of
colour or a distinctive plant can
also be used to great effect as
a focal point.
11
 Hard landscaping
The choice is limitless when it
comes to hard landscaping.
You can choose to pave your
entire small garden, putting
your plants in raised beds
and pots; you could create a
walkway that meanders through
your garden, showing off its
best aspects; or you could
make a deck, swimming pool
or pergola a part of the design
rather than a separate element.

Sometimes its easier to look

at your gardens topography,
surroundings and function to
help you decide what hard
landscaping to include.

12
SOME CONSIDERATIONS
A slope can be turned into an eyecatching terraced wall
that will also prevent erosion.
A shallow rise can be converted into a small, raised
bed.
A retaining wall made of blocks can be planted with a
creeper to give it a softer look while still functioning as a
solid support.
Need something to screen your view onto the municipal
dump or into your neighbours property, or maybe to
screen your garden from the neighbours? Raising your
boundary wall is an option but in the process you could
include planting spaces to combat any proportion issues
that might arise, or to add interest to an otherwise plain
8-foot structure.
Create formal lawn rooms linked by a path, or open
your view onto a tract of lawn so you can see the
children playing in any part of the garden.
Screen the washing line from the garden with a wall, but
build a raised bed directly in front of it to provide a
close-at-hand kitchen herb garden.

13
 Planning
PAPER PLAN
Before you buy a single plant
for your garden, its important
to do some planning. Take time
to research the plants, features
and structures you like the look
of, and also what you will need
to remove to make your dream
garden possible. Take time to
sit in your garden and think
about the options available.
Decide on a theme, or simply
write down a list of what you
would like to see in the finished
creation. Once you have an 1 Measure all the 2 Indicate on your plan
idea of what you want, it is existing structures the house, the directional aspect of the
best to draw it in pencil on driveway, garage, carport, property so that when you are
either a large piece of paper swimming pool, patios, paving adding features you can think
or in a sketchbook. Have an etc. Make a rough sketch as about the path the sun will
eraser handy. You do not need you go along and then later follow and what shadows will
to be an artist to do this, but draw everything to scale. be cast.
keep everything to scale as Choose a scale that fits your
much as possible. Having a paper size: 1:100 where
drawing of what you envisage 1 cm represents 1 m, or 1:200
will stop you from planting where cm represents 1 m.
a 1-metre bush in a space Having a copy of your house
300 mm wide, or a tall tree too plans handy will make the job
close to a structure. much easier.
14

Tie tape around trees and
shrubs you want to keep
in the garden and make
sure they are put on the
plan first. If you dont know
what species they are,
take pictures of them to
your local garden centre
for identification.
5 Choose plants according
5 Now you can start adding the
plants. Make a numbered list
of them on the side of the plan,
starting with the groundcovers,
then the small shrubs, large
shrubs, form plants and trees.
Mark the numbers on the plan.
3 Mark all service lines PLANNING GUIDELINES
and underground pipes on your
plan. Research, research,
research! Research all
the plants you would like
to put in your garden with
care, noting the size and
colour of each and
adding a few remarks,
such as for birds, form
plant, spiky leaves,
green bark. Refer to
South African gardening
books and magazines
and make sure the plants
will grow in your area.
Start with a few types of
trees, shrubs, form plants
and groundcovers a
4 good design repeats
these plants throughout the
garden.
4 Follow this with the Your plan should indicate
landscaping features, such the size of the fully grown
as patios, gazebos, fencing, plant (and remember
water features, pathways, that any cheating will
lawns etc.
have consequences later).
Take into account the
climate in your region
(plants grow larger in
subtropical areas) and
make sure the plants you
want are available.
Take into account the soil
conditions; dry rocky soils
require hardy plants, etc.
Identify your soil type and
plan to prepare the soil
well with compost.
to their sun and shade
requirements.
Make space on your plan
for the practicalities of
your household, for
example the need for a
play area for the children
or a pet run along the
fence.
Screen off ugly areas such
as clotheslines, compost
heaps and garden sheds.
Dont put large trees next
to your pool or where they
will grow over it.
Its not necessary to draw
the plan all at once. Take
your time and think
carefully about the look
you wish to create. Try a
few elevation drawings to
give you more to work
with than just outlines.
15
 Building a contemporary garden
PLANNING
The garden has magnificent
views over some natural
grassland. The part requiring
a facelift is next to a double-
storey structure, crescent
shaped and level, but falls
away quite steeply to a
16
section of garden below. We
took into consideration the
need for a design that would
draw attention away from the
awkward shape of the area
and decided to go with hard
landscaping and, for that
English Cottage feel, lots of
colourful flowering plants along
with vegetables and herbs. We
also wanted a water feature for
its calming effect.
 THE FINAL DESIGN PLANTING
To achieve a slightly wild,
meadowy effect, we chose
a mix of plants that included
conifers, trees for the
boundary, clipped hedges,
fruit trees, shrubs, perennials,
herbs and vegetables.

After experimenting with circular

and geometric designs, we
settled on a circular open area
with an informal path, as it
would give us larger planting
areas. The circular section
could be paved, grassed or
covered with decking, while the
path could be either cobbled
or have a gravel or shredded
bark surface. The water feature
could be placed in a number
of different spots. We finally
decided to go with lawn in the
circular area, a gravel path
edged with brick, and the
water feature in the middle of
the lawn.

As the land rises up to the

western boundary fence, we
chose to hold it back with a
retaining wall that would cup
around part of the circle and
enable us to raise the height of
the existing garden bed. A mix
of trailing bedding plants or
herbs could be used to soften
this raised bed. A section of it
could also double as seating.
A decorative arch set on the
diagonal to match the diagonal
paving that has been installed
around the front of the building,
announces the entrance to the
garden. Because the planting
here will be quite different from
that of the rest of the garden,
we wanted the entrance to be
quite spectacular.
A low but attractive feature that
wont obscure or spoil the view
can be placed in the planting
with the view as a backdrop.
Everything from birdbaths to
sculptures are available at
Builders.
17
 PLAN OF ACTION
1 Measure out all
structures and beds
and mark with
builders line and
pegs.

2 Clear area, apart

from any plants or
lawn that are to be
included in the final
garden. BEFORE
3 Hard landscaping
build a retaining wall
and seat.
Grassed bank
4 Hard landscaping
build a pathway and
edge the lawn.
Lawn

PLAN

5 Feature add a
water feature.

6 Feature build an
arch.

Planting place and

7 plant up garden beds.
ONE MONTH LATER
18
 sign the
In any de
ving and
earthmo aping
sc
hard land re
efo
is done b re
sa
the plant .
ght
even bou

Building a retaining wall and seat

Our design calls for a curved wall to be built with seating and the
entire structure plastered and painted. What you
Make sure drainage is provided in a retaining wall, especially a will need:
high one. Walls constructed from brick require expansion joints at
regular intervals with holes at the base for drainage. If the water - Bricks
will run onto a paved surface, install a gully along the base of the - Cement
retaining wall to lead it out into the garden.
- Building sand

1 PERSON 5 - Plaster sand

HOW TO
3
1

7 DAYS SKILL - River sand

- Stone

- Brickforce mesh

- Abe Brixeal

- 20 mm diameter PVC
piping

- Large brush

- Fired Earth Sandstone

paint

1 - Paint roller

- Builders line and pegs

1 Decide on the size of the circle, find the centre point and ham-
mer in a peg. Attach builders line to the peg and roll out sufficient - Trowel
line to reach the proposed edge of the circle. Mark this spot with - Spirit level
another peg. Using the line as a guide, move around the centre
- Float
peg marking the edge of the circle on the ground with sand,
- Stamper
mealie meal or spraypaint.
19

2 4
2 Using builders line and
pegs, mark out the area for the
straight walls on either side of
the semicircle. Make sure both
walls are the same length.
3 5
3 Check that there are no pipes
or electrical conduits in the
area to be excavated. (If there
are, depending on their nature
they might have to be moved
by someone qualified to do it.)
20
LAYING FOUNDATIONS
4 For the semicircular seat, remove any grass from the marked
area, taking out a strip 600 mm wide. Cut the grass out in squares
and put them aside so they can be used to repair any other areas
of grass that get damaged during the building operations. Mark
and remove any grass in the marked areas for the straight walls on
either side of the semicircle, taking out 100 mm wide strips.
6 Hammer a wooden peg into
the centre of the trench near
one end, leaving 200 mm of
peg visible; the cement for the
foundation will be poured into
5 Dig a 200 mm deep trench the trench up to this height.
where the walls and semicircle
Continue knocking in pegs
are to go.
every half metre, checking that
the tops are all on the same
level as you go.
 10

10 Make the mortar 20 mm

wide between the bricks.
Create drainage holes every
metre along the top of the first
course of bricks by inserting
lengths of the 20 mm PVC into
7 the spaces between the bricks.
Reinforce every fourth row of
7 Combine 4 parts stone, 2 parts river sand and 1part cement bricks with Brickforce. Regularly
with enough water to make a fairly wet mixture. Pour the mix into check with a spirit level that the
the trench and leave to dry for 3 to 4 days. wall is level.

LAYING THE BRICKS

11

11 Keeping the same curve

8 9
8 When the foundations are
dry, build the walls using bricks
and mortar. Lay a damp-proof
course at ground level and
Brickforce every 4th course
up. Use a mixture of 6 parts
building sand to 1 part cement,
plus water, for the mortar.
9 For the semicircle, start at the
front edge of the foundation
and build a wall 500 mm
high. For the straight sections,
build the wall in the centre of
the foundation 500 mm high.
as the first semicircular wall,
build another 500 mm high
semicircular wall along the
back of the foundations. When
the space between them is
filled you will have a seat
measuring 500 x 500 mm.
12 Clean excess mortar
from the bricks as you go to
ensure a smooth surface for the
plaster.
21
 SEALING

Area of
retaining
wall and
seat
to be
sealed

13

13 When the cement in the walls is dry, seal all brick surfaces
that are not going to be plastered with abe Brixeal or TITE
waterproofing range. Brush on two coats, allowing 12 hours
drying between them, and then leave to cure for 7 days before
backfilling the flower beds.

SEAT

15

15 Cover the fill with river sand

up to 50 mm from the top and
compact well. Fill the last
50 mm with mortar (6 parts
sand to 1 part cement, plus
14 water) to finish creating the
seat. This should be level with
14 Fill the empty space for the seat with rubble and soil taken out for the tops of the curved walls.
the foundations. Compact it well with a stamper you can make Leave the mortar to dry for two
your own by sinking a pole into a paint tin filled with concrete. or three days before plastering.
22
 PLASTERING PAINTING

16

16 To plaster the outsides and

tops of the walls, mix together
6 parts plaster sand with 1 part
cement, plus water.
19

19 Paint dry, cured plaster with a plaster primer (or Fired Earth All
in One) and allow to dry.

17

17 Apply with a trowel and

smooth around the edges with 20
a float.

18 20 Choose a textured paint, such as Fired Earth Sandstone for its

Let the plaster cure for 21 resistance to moisture and ultraviolet light. Apply 2 coats with a
days before painting. roller or brush, allowing 4 hours drying time between coats.
23
 Building a pathway
Edging pathways attractively and neatly is as important as
hemming a dress or framing a picture it adds the final touch 1 PERSON 3
5
1
and supplies the X-factor to any garden. It is also practical for
keeping the surface material of the path in place. 7 HOURS SKILL

A variety of materials, both organic and man-made, can be used

for edging. Wooden railway sleepers, concrete sleepers, precast
cement edging, cobblestones or upended logs cut to size are just
a few examples. The surface of the path can also be made up of What you
any number of materials, including bark, gravel, river stones or
paving stones.
will need:
- Spray paint/
mealie meal
HOW TO - Spade

- Tape measure

- Building sand

- Cement

- Bucket

- Edging cobbles

- Rubber mallet

- Level
1
- Landscaping fabric

1 Mark out the area for the edging using spray paint or mealie - Washed stone /
meal. Make sure the curves are correct and then dig a shallow gravel
trench 50 mm deep to receive the edging.
24
 2 4

2 Mix 4 parts building sand to 4 Cut landscaping fabric to the width of the path and cover the
1 part cement and add water area between the two lines of edging with it.
until you have a mortar the
consistency of thick yoghurt.

5 Cover the fabric with

washed stone up to the top
of the edging to create a
gravelled pathway.

CIRCULAR LAWN EDGING

3 Since we will be edging
our circular lawn with the
same material that we used
3 Working on small sections at a time, spread the mortar 30 mm for the path, the instructions
thick along the trench. Place each piece of edging into the mortar for laying it are the same
and tap it into place with a rubber mallet to ensure it is firmly -- but try not to harm any
seated. Butt the next piece of edging up against the previous one lawn that is being left
and make sure they are level. Continue in the same way until all intact.
the edging is completed.
25
 Building an arch What you
will need:
- 4x 2.4 m planks (100 x 50 mm)
for the vertical posts
An arch is a great means of linking two separate spaces,
creating a doorway between one garden room and another, or - 2x 1.7 m planks (100 x 50 mm)
showcasing plants like climbers. for crossbeams

- 2x 1.9 m planks (100 x 20 mm)

Make your arch the width of your pathway plus some. If you have for temp crossbeams
edged the pathway, take into account that the arch mustnt interfere - 4x 125 mm carriage bolts,
with the cement anchoring the edging, so add something onto the washers and nuts
width for that. As for the depth of the arch, we chose 600 mm. - 5x 800 mm planks (50 x
50 mm) to brace structure

- 14x Wood screws (5 x 80 mm)

2 PEOPLE 3
5

HOW TO
1
- 2x eye bolts (5 x 50 mm)
3 HOURS SKILL

- 2x turnbuckles (5 x 60 mm)
or 2 more eye bolts

- 4 mm galvanised wire

- Cement

- River sand

- Bucket

- Spade

- Trowel

- Undercoat
1
- Exterior paint

1 Lay 2 of the posts and 1 of the 50 mm crossbeams on the - Drill

ground in an upside down U shape and measure and mark where - Tape measure
you need to drill through them to bolt the crossbeam to the posts.
- Side cutters
Drill and bolt together.
26
 2 5

2 Screw (dont bolt) one of the temporary 20 mm crossbeams 5 Follow the same procedure
onto the posts about three quarters of the way down, ensuring it is with the remaining posts
parallel to the first and that the two posts are also parallel to one and crossbeams, ending by
another. Apart from keeping the posts the right distance apart, the screwing the opposite ends of
temporary beams will help when moving the finished arch into the braces into them. You now
place. have your arch.

6 Concentrating on one side of

3 where to place the braces (3
3 Stack the bracing planks
together and mark and drill
5 mm holes through both ends
of all of them in one go
4 the arch, plan where to place
4 Measure and mark on the
posts and 50 mm crossbeam
need to go on the crossbeam
and 1 each 800 mm from the
bottom of the posts). Drill holes
into the posts and crossbeam
and screw one end of the
braces onto them.
the eye bolt that will anchor
the wire for your climbing plant
to cling to, as well as where
to drill the holes needed to
weave the wire through both
posts. Start from just above the
bracing and drill the holes at
200 mm intervals all the way to
the top. The holes must line up
so that the strands of wire are
level.
27
 7

7 Attach the wire to the eye bolt

and weave it through the two
posts. Ensure the wire is taut
as you go. End by attaching
the wire to a turnbuckle or eye
hook, twist and cut.
10
10 Mix 1 part cement with 4 parts river sand plus water until they
have the consistency of porridge and fill the holes 2/3 of the way
up with the mixture. Push the feet of your arch into the cement,
checking with a spirit level that the crossbeams are horizontal.
Leave overnight for the cement to set, then backfill soil around the
legs. Remove the lower crossbeams and store for some other use.

8 Do the same with the other

side of the arch. Treat the feet
with a waterproofing product
to prevent rotting and extend its
lifespan.Your arch is now ready
to go into the ground.

11 Plant a suitable climber,

such as a climbing rose,
11 Prime the wooden parts below the arch. This can
9 of the arch with universal
undercoat or wood primer, then be trained to climb
leave to dry, then paint with up the horizontal wires
9 Mark and measure where two coats of exterior, high-
you want to place it and dig exposure paint in the colour of and eventually go over.
400 mm deep holes for its feet. your choice.
28
 e
You can mak
t
your own po
e in
water featu
a matter of
hours.

Adding a water feature

A water feature can consist of anything from a small, shallow
bowl of water on the patio to an ambitious series of cascades What you
and pools. Whatever form it takes and whether the water is still will need:
or moving, it will have a soothing effect, as well as reflecting its
- Sump/fibreglass pond
surroundings.
- Large pot

- Length of PVC pipe

5
1 PERSON 1
3 to fit in the pot

4 HOURS SKILL - Silicone sealer

- Galvanised wire

- Galvanised grid

- Submersible pump
with 10m cord

- Large pebbles

Watertight pot - Blocks or bricks to make

Grid a pedestal for the pot

- River sand
Pump
- Cement
Sump
- Spirit level

- Hammer
The water is collected in a sump. A pump moves it from there
through a tube up to the top of the feature. If the water is to flow - Drill with hole saw
over the rim of a pot, the pot must be completely watertight. The - Screwdriver
water will then cascade down and be collected again in the
sump. You can make the elements of the feature as simple or as - Conduit (for electrical
wiring to pump)
complex as you like.
29
 HOW TO
1 3
1 Drill a hole in the bottom of the
pot wide enough for the length
of PVC piping to fit through it.
Seal around the pipe, inside
and outside the pot, with
silicone. Keep the pipe in place
with wire. Allow the silicone to
dry.
2 4
2 Lay the fibreglass pond
upside down on the ground
where you want your water
feature to go and mark its
outline using river sand. Clear
the area, saving any grass sods
you can (these can be used to
repair bits of lawn elsewhere in
the garden).
30
3 Dig out the marked area
to the depth of the pond plus
50 mm for a river sand base.
Line the bottom of the dug area
with river sand, compact it and
make sure it is level.
4 Place the pond in the hole,
right side up, and half fill it with
water. Backfill into the space
between the sides of the pond
and the edge of the hole,
firming the soil down well.
Leave a small trench at the top
equal in depth to the height of
one pebble.
5
5 Fill this trench with mortar (4
parts sand to 1 part cement)
and press a row of pebbles
into it to create a firm border
around the pond which will
also help to keep the pebbles
that are to go on top of the
pond in place.
6
6 Build a pedestal in the centre
of the pond level with the sides.
Leave a gap in the centre
through which the tube from the
pump can feed into the pot.
 7 10

7 Put the pump into the pond and place the galvanized grid over 10 Fill the pot with water.
the pond. If the grid has an inspection hole in it, position this over
the pump to give you easy access to it. If youve made your own
grid, cut an inspection hole in it big enough for the pump to fit
through and place a bit of grid over the hole so that the pebbles
wont fall into the pond.

11

11 Cover the grid with pebbles.

8 9 12

8 Place the pot on top of the
grid and pedestal. Connect
the tubing from the pump to the
tubing going into the pot. Keep
the tubing in the pot in place
with a wire structure or bricks.
9 Route the electrical conduit to
the closest plug point.
12 We have planted lawn
around our water feature but
you could plant flowers around
yours for a nice finishing touch.
31
 Planting a hedge
Start the planting phase of your garden by putting the structural
elements in place first, such as the trees and a hedge. Here are
some tips on planting a hedge:

1 Planting a hedge in a prepared trench is better than in individual holes. Use wooden pegs and
string to mark out the trench and dig it at least 400 mm deep and wide. Place the topsoil the first
200 mm of earth you remove in one heap and the remainder in another.
32
 2 4

2 You will need one wheelbarrow load of good compost or well- 4 Tread the topsoil firmly into
rotted kraal manure (or a mixture of the two) for every 2 metres place. Remove the hedge
of trench. Spread it along the bottom of the trench. By placing it plants from their packets and
on the bottom you will encourage the hedge plants roots to grow place them along the trench.
downwards in search of nutrients and so increase their chances of Fill in the rest of the trench with
surviving a drought (or other setback of Mother Nature). topsoil.

5 Press the soil down firmly

and water well.

6 Spread a thick layer of

compost over the top of the
3 trench. This will supply nutrients
to the young plants as well as
act as a mulch that will protect
3 Fill the trench halfway with the topsoil that you removed earlier the roots from winter frost,
(unless it was of poor quality, in which case rather use good reduce evaporation in summer
topsoil sourced from elsewhere). and suppress weeds.
33
 Planting
PREPARE SOIL
Turn over soil and mix in a good load of compost, taking extra
care around plants that are being left in place. Raise or lower
the height of the soil in the beds as per your plan. We backfilled
behind the retaining wall to create a raised bed and we ensured
the other beds were the same height as our path and lawn
edging.

34
 PLACE PLANTS
By placing all your plants
where you want to grow
them in advance you can see
whether you bought enough,
double-check their effect
(although few will be in flower),
and rearrange them should you
have a change of heart.
PLANT
Dig holes double the depth and double the width of each plant.
Mix compost with the soil and add back into the hole to half its
depth. Add a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate to every
hole. This will help the plants to thrive after the trauma of being
handled. Remove the bag and place the plant in the hole back
filling around it with a mix of soil and compost. Press the soil down
lightly around the stems so the plants stand tall. Water well. Move
through the bed until all the planting is completed.
Planting a tree is slightly different as you create a furrow in the
soil equal in length to the diameter of the trees foliage in order to
channel water down to its roots.
35
 FEED
Starting 4 weeks after planting,
feed the different areas of
your garden with appropriate
fertilisers. Feed bedding plants
a 3:1:5 fertiliser, roses an
8:1:5, veggies and herbs a
2:3:4, and lawn with LAN and
a 7:1:3 in spring. Continue
feeding every 4-6 weeks or as
per the specific fertiliser.

PLANT LIST
Carex comans Frosted Curls
Ocimum basilicum High
Hopes (Perennial sweet basil)
Trachelospermum
jasminoides Aurea
(Golden star jasmine)

Agapanthus White Ice Digitalis purpurea Echinacea purpurea

(Foxglove) (Coneflower)

Fuchsia hybrid Freylinia tropica Limonium perezii

(Transvaal honey-bell) (Sea-lavender)

36
37
 Disclaimer
Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. The
information contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIY
projects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibility
for the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of
any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws,
rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safety
precautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturers
instructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may only
be available at selected Builders stores. If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY project
please consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that may
result out of the use of the Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides.
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38