Designer Doll Sewing Patterns

Quick and Easy including!

Step by Step Sewing Guide

Cute n Casual

Separates
Bonus
Dress Pattern Included

PDF Pattern Fits

Gotz Just Like Me
and similar size dolls including
Hearts 4 Hearts & Les Cheries
Cover Model Gotz Just Like Me Doll - Lucia !
Measurements - Height: 27cm / 11 Chest: 18cm Waist: 17.5cm Hips: 18.5cm ChrisLucas.com.au
 First of all Id like to say THANK YOU for purchasing my pattern.
You just made me smile

I believe in GOOD Karma and lovely honest people like you.!

You have purchased one copy of this pattern for your own personal use and you are
welcome to sell items made from this pattern so long as you give me credit for the pattern
and where possible include a link back to my website http://ChrisLucas.com.au !

Please do NOT share, resell or give away copies of this pattern or part there of either
electronically or in print. Instead Id appreciate it if you referred people to my website
where they can purchase a copy of the pattern for themselves and Ill be able to enjoy
another lovely cup of coffee while I work on developing another pattern for you to enjoy. !

Copyright Chris Lucas All rights reserved!

Cute n Casual Pattern

The best thing about the Cute n Casual pattern is whether youre making the top and
pants or the dress they all look cute on your doll and theyre super quick and easy to sew,
making them great little wardrobe builders for your dolls or for doll clothing you might sell.

You can make all the pieces look cute n casual or you can make them look cute and
dressy simply by changing the fabrics you use and/or adding embellishments like ribbon,
ric rac, lace, buttons or any other trims and embellishments you happen to have on hand.
The top of the bodice would even look great with a little embroidery and even a few beads
would look wonderful too. The Cute n Casual designs are great little basics that you can
use and let your imagination run wild with the fun youd like to have changing up the style.

The top, pants and dress can be made from a variety of fabrics including cotton, cotton
blends, rayon, silk, or just about any other piece of woven fabric you happen to have on
hand. Perhaps you have some scraps left over from a quilting project or another garment
you have made. This project is the perfect opportunity to do a little scrap stash busting
and make some adorable little outfits for your dolls. !

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Supplies Needed
Top and Dress
1/4 metre/yard of Fashion Fabric
Scrap fabrics from left over projects are great to use and Fat Quarters are great
Small piece of fabric for lining bodice (top and dress)
Velcro 5cm / 2 for centre back closure. OR you can use snaps or other
preferred method of closure.
Thread - Coordinating

Pants:!
Fabric Capri or Long Length - 1 piece of fabric 12 x 8 (30cm x 20cm) is sufficient
for 1 pair of pants either long or Capri length.
Elastic - Cut a piece the same length as your dolls waist measurement. (Gotz Just
Like Me waist measurement is 18.5cm / 7 1/4.
Thread - Coordinating

PLEASE NOTE:

Seam allowances are 1/4 unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Length - When sewing small dolls clothes I like to use a smaller stitch length of
1.8mm to 2.2 mm depending on the fabric thickness. For sewing around tiny curves I
generally use 1.8mm to 2mm stitch length.

Printing your pattern - Printer scaling should be set to None or at 100% depending
on your printer settings. Once you print your pattern please check the size scale on the
pattern sheet to ensure its correct before you cut your pattern pieces. Ive made this
pattern to print and fit on both A4 Size and US Letter.

There are two separate instructions for completing the ruffle for the top
and the dress.
The only difference is the dress has a centre back seam and Ive shown an alternative
method for doing a double folded hem that you might like to try as it eliminates having to
press the first 1/4 fold.
I would recommend reading both and seeing if there is a method you prefer.
TOP: For the top follow the instructions on page Page 13
DRESS: For the dress follow the instructions on Page 20

Support - If you have any questions about this pattern feel free to email me at
Chris@ChrisLucas.com.au

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Pattern Layout and Cutting
Each pattern piece is numbered and states how many pieces to cut from your fabric and
from your lining fabric. Fabric is cut on the straight of grain (fold fabric selvage to selvage)

TOP Pattern Pieces

No. 1 Front Bodice - Cut 2 on the Fold (1 x Fashion Fabric & 1 x Lining fabric)
No. 2 Back Bodice Cut 4 (2 x Fashion Fabric & 2 x Lining Fabric)
No. 3 Top Ruffle Cut 1 on the Fold (Fashion Fabric)

DRESS Pattern Pieces

No. 1 Front Bodice - Cut 2 on the Fold (1 x Fashion Fabric & 1 x Lining fabric)
No. 2 Back Bodice Cut 4 (2 x Fashion Fabric & 2 x Lining Fabric)
No. 4A & 4B Ruffle Cut 1 on the Fold (Fashion Fabric) - NOTE Both 4A & 4B
need to be joined together aligning dots indicated on both pattern pieces.

PANTS Pattern Pieces

No. 5 Pants - Cut 2 (Fashion Fabric)

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 Sewing Instructions

Top and Dress Bodice!
!The instructions are the same for both the top and dress for making the bodice!
1. Pin and stitch right sides together at the shoulder seams.
Use a straight stitch and a 1/4 seam allowance. Backstitch to secure threads at the
beginning and end of each shoulder seam. Repeat using lining fabric.

2. Press shoulder seams open.

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3. Pin and stitch both bodice pieces (fabric and lining) right sides together. (See
image below with marked stitching lines)
In the image below the crossed pins at the centre back have been placed on the
intersecting seamline mark as this is where to start your stitching. Leave a full
space at the beginning and the end of your stitching as well be turning under the lower
back seam of the bodice lining at a later stage.
Tip: Marking seam line on the bodice lining provides a great stitching guide,
particularly for stitching around small curves. On this bodice I used a disappearing pen to
mark the stitch lines. You can use chalk pens or any other preferred marking tool that can
be removed or wont be seen on the right side of your fabric.

Note: Pay attention when sewing the shoulder seams to ensure your seams do NOT
increase more than the seam allowance allocated or it may be difficult to turn the
bodice to the right side as the back bodice pieces will be pulled through the space in the
shoulder seams. If using a thicker fabric or if in doubt you may want to stitch the shoulder
seam a scant 1/16 or 1-2mm inside the 1/4 seam allowance area leaving a slightly wider
space between the neck edge and shoulder edge for pulling the back bodice pieces
through.

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Tip: Using the outside edge next to the sewing needle of a quilting foot can also be
used as a guide to ensure accurate seams. Notice in the image below where the
outside edge of the foot lines up next to my sewing needle and also the placement on the
stitching line I marked.

Stitching completed with accurate seams around curves. It may take a couple of
minutes to mark your stitch lines around tiny curves but the results make it worth while
when you see how neat and accurate your stitching lines are.

!
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4. Trim seam allowance by approximately one half around armholes and neckline area.
There is no need to trim the straight seams down the centre back. The reason for
trimming the armhole and neckline seams is to help reduce bulk and it also provides a
smoother line around tiny curves.

5. Clip/Snip curves.
Clip approximately every or so around the neckline and armhole curves as this will
provide smooth curve lines around these areas when the bodice is turned right side out.
There is no need to clip straight seams such as the centre back seams or the shoulder
seam areas.

Neckline Shoulder Seam

Shoulder Seam

Centre
Centre Back
Back

Armhole Armhole

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6. Clip/Snip corners.
Clip the corners at the top of the centre back seams being sure not to clip your stitching.
Leave a small margin of fabric in the seam allowance. Clip as shown in red below.

7. Turn bodice right side out.

In the diagram below Ive used a loop turner to pull the back bodice through the should
seams to the right side. Another option is to use a safety pin hooked to the back bodice
lining and pushing it through.
As soon as I can grab hold of the back bodice fabric between the shoulder seams I gently
pull the rest of the back bodice through using my fingers and not the loop turner or a safety
pin as this helps eliminate damaging the fabric.

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8. Press bodice.
Roll the seams between your fingers to get them nice and smooth and line up the seam
right on the edge of the fashion fabric and lining fabric being sure that your lining fabric
cannot be seen from the front. Next finger press the seams and then press with an iron.
Press meaning do not rub your iron over the fabric, simply press your iron down on top of
the fabric and hold for a few seconds and then lift your iron and check everything is still in
place. Then repeat this until all seams have been pressed and are lying smooth and flat
with no lining showing from the right side of the bodice. Your bodice piece should now
look like this. See how theres no lining fabric visible from the front.

9. Stitch the Side Seams

Open the side seams and pin right sides together matching lining to lining and fabric to
fabric and stitch seam. TIP: To line up corresponding seams place a pin through both
seams as shown in the picture below. On the reverse side of the bodice the pin is also
going through the corresponding seam. Resulting in perfectly matched intersecting seams

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10. Press Side Seams Open
Press side seams (underarm) open as in picture below.

Lay the side seams wrong sides together keeping the seam allowance open and flat.
Press inside the armhole so the lining can not be seen from the right side of the bodice.

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11. Press the bottom edge of the back bodice lining under approximately 1/4
Press under approximately 1/4 along the bodice lining hemline starting and ending at the
side seams as in the picture below. This is why we started our stitching in Step 3 1/4
away from the edge as you can see the fabric is free from the side seam to turn under 1/4.

Set aside your cute little bodice for now as were going to
work on the ruffle next.

There are two separate instructions for completing the ruffle for the
top and the dress.

TOP: For the top follow the instructions on Page 13

DRESS: For the dress follow the instructions on Page 21

The only difference is the dress has a centre back seam and Ive shown an alternative
method for doing a double folded hem that you might like to try as it eliminates having to
press the first 1/4 fold.
I would recommend reading both and seeing if there is a method you prefer.

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Ruffle - FOR THE TOP
!
For the ruffle Ive provided a pattern piece that you can use as it is or you can lengthen
the width from the side if you would like a fuller ruffle. Have fun with your ruffle and if you
like you could even add a little double ruffle with the top ruffle being a little shorter. You
could even use a contrasting fabric for the ruffle to mix things up a little and create a
totally different look.

12. Add guidelines to help match centre front and side seams on the bodice.
To help make it easier to even out the gathers when attaching the ruffle to the bodice I
like to add in a few tailor tacks as seam guides as I can easily find the thread tails when it
comes time to attach the ruffle to the bodice. Some people like to add pins, or clip
notches to use as guides.
In the image below you can see where I have added a tailor tack at the centre of the ruffle
which will line up with the centre front on the bodice. Next I fold the sides of the ruffle
towards the centre to find the 1/2 way point (saves measuring) and add another tailor tack
which will line up with the side seams on the bodice. Its best to use a contrasting thread
for the tailor tacks so they can be easily found later.

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13. Sew Side Seam
For the side seams fold over 1/4 and press and then fold over 1/4 again and stitch just
inside the folded edges. Do this for both side edges of the ruffle.

14. Sew Hemline

Fold up the hemline 1/4 and press and then fold again another 1/4, press and stitch.

15. Stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches across the unfinished long edge of the ruffle.
Using a long stitch length (between 4-5mm) sew one row of stitches approximately 1/8
from the 1/4 stitch line near the edge of the fabric. Then stitch a second row of gathering
stitches approximately 1/8 on the other side of the 1/4 stitch line. Do not backstitch at
the beginning or the end of your stitches and be sure to leave long thread tails to gather
the ruffle.

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16. Pin and Stitch gathered ruffle to bodice
This is where those tailor tacks we added earlier come in super handy! Look how easy it
is now to line up the centre front of the bodice to the centre of the ruffle as well as the side
seams helping make our gathers nice and even all the way around.
Pin matching the side edges of the ruffle to the side edges of the front bodice leaving the
bodice lining free.
Stitch from one edge to the other being sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.
Once youve sewn the ruffle to the front bodice you can remove your tailor tacks as well
as the bottom row of gathering stitches visible from the right side. You can leave the row
of gathering stitches that are in the seam allowance as its not visible from the right side
and no one will even know its there except you.

Now things are starting to look cute! Your little top should look something like this.

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17. Stitch lining to bodice
You have a couple of options for stitching the lining to the bodice.

1. Hand sew - Using a Slip stitch if you enjoy a little hand sewing
or
2. Machine sew - By top stitching from the front of the bodice. Ill show you how to do this
if you prefer not to hand sew.

Pin the lining from the right side of the top ensuring the lining is secured nice and neat
on the inside with your pins. Your pinning position will look something like this from the
right side.

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From the back the lining should be overlapping the seam like this. Make sure there is
enough lining overlapping so it will get caught in the stitching which will be sewn from the
of the bodice.

To stitch by machine turn your top to the right side and do a row of stitches in the ditch
between the bodice and the ruffle, stitching as close as you can to the bodice but not on
top of the bodice. This is what is called Stitch in the Ditch. Which will result in a row of
stitching that can only be seen from the front if you look closely as the row of stitches will
basically disappear in between the gathers of the ruffle and the bodice.

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Stitching completed and barely visible from the front.

Lining has been secured by getting caught in the stitches.

Test Fit
Nows a great time to do a test fit on your
doll and see how far over you would like to
place the velcro or any alternate method of
closure you prefer such as snaps.

The centre back should overlap by about

2/3 giving enough room to attach a 1/4
strip of velcro for the closure with a little
room to spare.

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18. Attach Velcro or your chosen alternative closure
There is no hard and fast rule as to which side you sew your hook side or loop side of
velcro to or which side should overlap which side. For me I like to have the nicest/neatest
looking side showing on the outside and attach the loop side of the velcro to that side. If
you have a preferred side you like to have overlap feel free to use your method.

Congratulations
You have just completed your
Cute n Casual Top

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Ruffle for the DRESS
!
1. Finish the raw edges on the side seams and stitch seam up to the mark indicated on the
pattern piece and press seam open and flat.

2. Top stitch the seam opening

Stitch down one side of the seam opening across the bottom and back up the opposite side. In the
picture below my stitches are approximately 1/4 away from the opening.

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3. Stitch hemline
TIP: To do a double turned hem without having to press the first 1/4 simply stitch a 1/4 hem and
then turn that hem over and stitch again. You only then need to press the finished hemline.
Heres the first 1/4 hem being stitched

4. Next fold over the hemline approximately 1/2 and stitch and then press.

I find it much easier when doing a double folded hem on a long seam to use this technique rather
then turning and pressing the first 1/4 For me its faster and I dont risk burning my fingers trying
to press 1/4 all the way along a seam.
TIP: When sewing a hem I like to start my stitch just before or after a seam and not on the seam
as this way therell be no backstitching on the seam and it helps reduce a smidgen of bulk on a
seamline. I know its not much but its all the little things we do that can make a difference to
overall look and finish of the garments we make.
5. Continue with using the same steps for making the top follow on from Step No. 15 on
Page 14.
First off mark your centre front seam and side seams either with tailor tacks like I used in Step 12
in the instructions for making the top (see page 13). This time though I would recommend starting
and stopping your gathering stitching about 1/2 from either edge of the ruffle. (see marker on
pattern piece for a guide)
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Pants!
!
The instructions are the same for both lengths of the pants. !

If youre going to make the Capri pants cut or fold back the
pattern on the Capri length cutting line.
Cut pattern (or fold) for
Depending on your doll you may want to shorten or lengthen the Capri length
pattern to suit.

1. With right sides together pin and

stitch centre front seam. (zig zag or
overlock edges optional)

Note: The centre front and the centre back

are shaped the same so you can choose
either seam as your centre front.

Optional - Top stitch centre front seam

I like to top stitch centre front and centre
back seams on pants as I find these are
the areas that tend to have the most strain
placed on them when sitting, just like our
own clothes do. Plus if youve chosen not
to edge finish your seams this will give a
great little stopping point should your fabric
fray and it also gives a neat finish on the
right side of the garment as well.

2. Waistband Casing for Elastic

Fold over the top of the pants at the waistline
by 1/4 and press.
Fold top of pants again by 1/2 and stitch to
form a casing for the elastic.

3. Pant Hem
Fold up hemline on both legs by 1/4 and press.
Fold hemline again on both legs by 1/4 and
stitch.

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4. Insert and secure elastic in the waistband
Tip: Secure a safety pin at each end of the elastic.
One safety pin to help thread the elastic through the
waistband and one safety pin at the other end that
acts like a stopper helping to prevent the other end of
the elastic going too far into the casing.

Pin elastic at the edges and secure with a few

stitches in the seam allowance area.

5. Pin and Stitch centre back seam

Tip: To get a neat even edge at the waistline

place a pin in the waistband matching and lining
up the top of the waistband on each side.
When you stitch the seam begin at the crotch and
stitch to the top of the waistband.
Its generally much easier for your sewing machine
to stitch over a waistband with elastic in it when
the foot has like a little ramp to glide over.
If you try to start your seam from the top of the
waistband in a lot of instances the foot of the
sewing machine has a bit of a hard time starting
directly over the ridge of the thickness of the fabric
as well as the elastic. If you havent tried this
method before give it a go and see if it works for
you.

Optional - Top stitch centre back seam if you top

stitched your centre front seam.

6. Pin and stitch the inside leg seam.

Align centre crotch seam on both front and back

and secure with a pin. Align bottom of hem on
each leg and secure with pins. Place a pin in the
centre of each leg seam match raw edges on front
and back of the legs.

Stitch inside leg seam and finish raw edges with

either a zig zag stitch or overlock.

Turn right side out and see how cute they look on
your doll.

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 Congratulations!!!

You have completed your Cute n Casual Pants

To go with your cute casual top

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Pattern Pieces

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