Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
COUNT YOUR
BLESSINGS
ANCIENT BALINESE
TREATMENT AT
HOTEL TUGU BALI
THE SPIRITUAL
DEVOTION
HOW THE BALINESE
WORSHIP THEIR GOD
TRULY BALI
AGE-OLD TRADITIONS,
AUTHENTIC FOODS,
www.baliandbeyond.co.id
AND MORE
TRULY BALI
Om Swastiastu...
On March 28, the Balinese people will celebrate Silent Day to mark a new beginning of
Saka New Year. The lights will be out, the streets will be empty and even the airport is
closed no one is allowed to go out or do any outside activities as the Balinese rejoice
in silence. One day prior to Silent Day, the Balinese people host an Ogoh-Ogoh Parade
where giant bamboo structures depicting traditional or modern characters are paraded
and burnt to clean the island from negative energy.
Ogoh-Ogoh Parade has also become one of the attractive traditional rituals for
tourists and residents to see. Therefore, if youre staying in Bali on Silent Day, dont miss
COVER an Ogoh-Ogoh Parade. Better yet, join a Monster-Doll making workshop and make your
Photo Courtesy of Mandapa, own ogoh-ogoh at Ganesha Cultural Centre in Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran
a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Bay. You can also learn other Balinese traditional arts and crafts at this cultural center
turn to Lifestyle & Leisure for more details.
To honor this years Silent Day, we have compiled a number of stories that will make
you see the real Bali. Our contributor Agung Parameswara shares the sincerity of the
Balinese in worshipping their God and paying tribute to their ancestors in Craft &
Culture. A photo series by Phil Green also captures the devotion of the Balinese in a
number of ceremonies ip through Foto Folio to see the images.
Our Dine & Delights reveals authentic Balinese cuisine at Rajas Balinese Restaurant
at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa. Meanwhile, Edna Tarigan and Taufan Wijaya
take us out of the island to see the making of Ondel-Ondel in Capital Corner and the
unique culture of Toraja in Beyond Bali respectively.
All in all, we hope our stories will be good company during your Silent Day in Bali.
One more tip; if the night sky is clear during the Silent Day, dont forget to look up
and stargaze.
@baliandbeyondmagazine
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Contributors
AGUNG PARAMESWARA, ANAIS AMANS, EDNA TARIGAN, KATIE TRUMAN, TAUFAN WIJAYA
Publisher
PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA OFFICE
Commissioner Gedung Bali White House - Block IV
SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali
Director Tel: 0361 9348339, 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602
MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Fax: +62 361 750075
Division Head MRA Printed Media E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id
INDRIATI WIRJANTO http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id
Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the
opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond
are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial ofce. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
Endorsed by A member of
18 32
CRAFT&CULTURE INVITE&INDULGE
SINCERELY BALI COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS
The devotion of Balinese people in Ancient Balinese treatment at
worshipping their Gods Waroeng Djamoe Spa
22 36
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE SIGHTS&SOUNDS
STEP BY STEP PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
A visit to Ganesha Cultural Centre Snapshots and quotes picked up
throughout January and February
26
DINE&DELIGHTS
DINE LIKE A KING
Indulge in Balinese cuisine at
14
Rajas restaurant
30
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
TRAVEL THROUGH TIME
Komang Ary talks about Indonesian
heritage artefacts
+
FIRST COLUMN PHOTO BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY PHIL GREEN,
14 PRIMEPROMOTION
Hot deals and promotions of
the month that shouldnt be missed
16 NEW&NEWS
This months select news updates
from the islands tourism industry
and whats new around the island
42
THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF W BALI - SEMINYAK
6 2 BEYONDUPDATES
News updates from the tourism
industry and whats new beyond Bali
64 SEE&SEEN
Snapshots of events and happenings
38 within the preceding month
REST&RELAXATION
KINGDOM OF LOVE 66 BALIMAPS
Stay at Ayodya Resort Bali Map of Bali showing specic tourism
areas and places of interest, as
well as a distance scale between
42 the islands main destinations
FOTOFOLIO
26 THE SPIRITUAL HEART OF BALI
Phil Green captures Balinese spiritual
ceremonies
70 INFOINDEX
Useful directory of companies and
island-based businesses
10 BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017 11
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
54
BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO BY ANAIS AMANS AND VICTOR JEOFFRE
TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTOS BY TAUFAN WIJAYA
50
54 ACTION&ATTRACTION
JUST RIDE!
BEYONDBALI Cycling through lush greenery
in Bali Bike Park
DISCOVER TORAJA
Reveal the unique tradition 58
of Toraja in North Sulawesi CAPITALCORNER
THE HOME OF
ONDEL-ONDEL
Witnessing the making of
Ondel-Ondel
50
12 BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2017 13
PRIMEPROMOTION
FANTASTIC SIX
W Bali Seminyak presents six ways for guests to Own
the Moment to celebrate the resorts sixth anniversary
throughout March. The celebration starts on March 5
where Purple Disco Machine will Own the Moment
on a sunset session at Woobar. Beats in Paradise
will let music enthusiasts create a masterpiece or take a
masterclass with W Balis Music Curator Damian Saint
at W Sound Suite a music session is available from
Rp. 2,000,000/two hours. If you want to hide from the
crowd, Vibrant Villas program offers 20 percent off for
their Marvelous One-Bedroom Villa with rates starting from
Rp. 5,100,000++/room/night. Dont forget the Away
Spa Launch Afterglow that will pamper you with options
from ve minutes to one hour of either a Hot & Cold Face
Massage, Express Mani-Pedi or a Head Rush Massage.
The resort also offers The Brunch of All Brunches that
indulges guests with selections of Pan-Asian cuisine at
Starsh Bloos Sunday Brunch the brunch is available
from Rp. 535,000++/person, including a glass of bubbles
and free-ow non-alcoholic beverages. And if youre
looking for some adventure, take the Insider Adventure
to discover Balis culture, lush jungles, and hidden beaches
the resorts DJI drone photographer will also capture
your adventure and you can bring the photos home.
W Bali Seminyak
Jalan Petitenget, Kerobokan, Seminyak, (0361) 3000-106
www.wretreatbali.com
A HEALING JOURNEY
This year, Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
will be welcoming three world-class wellness
practitioners to be their healing masters
in residence. The rst one being Andrew
Rosenstock, an international healing artist
and yoga teacher. From March 6 to 25,
Andrew will be holding a Thai and Yoga-
based massage as well as conducting
healing sessions to help you nd balance,
release tensions and heal your mind, body
and soul. Usui reiki master and practitioner
Nicky Kassapian and Californian massage
therapist Julian Eymann will also conduct
classes and therapies from June 25 to July
8 and from September 4 to 15 respectively.
Interested? Book a Healing Master In-
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
FLAWLESS SKIN
Cocoon Medical Spa proudly launches the
newest treatment named ND YAG Laser that will
make your skin more aglow than ever. Laser
treatment is gaining more popularity across the
world as it improves your skin in an efcient and
quick way, and ND YAG Laser can specically
help reduce pigmentation and freckles as well as
remove tattoos. ND YAG Laser can also improve
skin tone, reduce facial wrinkles and ne lines,
stimulate new collagen, help rm and tighten
the skin, and more. The treatment is safe as it
doesnt involve any surgery.
Cocoon Medical Spa
Sunset Road, Legian
0811-388-2240
www.cocoonmedicalspa.com
KOREAN STYLE
Located at Samasta Lifestyle Village, Chir Chir Fusion Chicken
Factory is bringing Korean-style dishes to the island. Choices
of delicious chicken are offered be it deep fried or roasted
chicken, the dish youre having will even be more avorful with
a special Korean sauce. At Chir Chir, you can also experience
Chiamek, a new trend in Korea to pair your chicken dish with a
cold beer. Chir Chir has Chir Cream Beer with whipped cream
to accompany your dining experience. The restaurant is open for
lunch and dinner.
Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory
Samasta Lifestyle Village
Jalan Wanagiri No. 1, Jimbaran
(0361) 472-5777
Instagram: @chirchirindonesia
ARTSY SEMINYAK
Nyaman actually means cozy or comfortable, and
Nyaman Gallery has successfully created a cozy space for art
enthusiasts to enjoy the islands contemporary art. Located in
the heart of Seminyak, Nyaman Gallery is not only displaying
paintings, photographs and sculpture, but also presenting
Balinese jewelry and more. The gallery works closely with
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
SINCERELY BALI
present offerings which are made
of harvests and crops to the spirits.
Mount Agung (the highest mountain
HOW THE BALINESE STAY TRUE TO THEIR ROOTS in Bali) is believed to be the home of
TO WORSHIP THEIR GODS AND PAY TRIBUTE TO the Gods and ancestors. Hence, the
mountain is known as the Mother of
THEIR ANCESTORS
the Mount, and it is sacred for the
Balinese.
A
s the center of tourism journalist myself, I was intrigued to Three years ago, my family got
in Indonesia, Bali has capture their bhakti the sincerity our turn to take care of our ancestral
experienced so many of the Balinese in worshipping their family temple in our hometown.
changes. According God and paying tributes to their Every Balinese family has to take
to the Tourism and ancestors through a visual story that I care of their family temple for three
Agriculture department of Bali, the am sharing with you here months. Once theyre done, another
island now has over 2,000 hotels family will take over the duty for
with approximately 60,000 rooms. MAN OF DUTY another three months. Among the
Nearly 400 hectares of rice elds The Balinese spiritual and religion responsibilities are making daily
have been transformed into houses are rooted back to Indian Hinduism, offerings, performing ceremonies
and other establishments. At the Buddhism and ancient animism belief. on certain days such as during the
same time, the high economic The theological basis of Hinduism in Full Moon and Dead Moon, and
demand increases urbanization. Bali comes from Indian philosophy cleaning the temple.
However, despite the rapid while animism belief inspires most of During our three-month tending
development, the Balinese people the rituals. The Balinese Hindu people the temple, the Balinese celebrated
never forget their roots. Being strongly believe that natural incidents Galungan and Kuningan, two of
a Balinese Hindu and a photo are caused by spirits. Therefore, they the most important religious days
Gede ceremony for their Gods. The of dried banana leaves and wooden their Gods and honoring their
celebration lasted for one month masks. This dance is only performed ancestors. And as a young Balinese
and ended with the Barong Brutuk by young Trunyan men who have person, I believe these rituals must be
performance. been selected, puried, and gone preserved as our precious heritage.
Brutuk is derived from baru through a 42-day quarantine. These rituals bring the Balinese
tuwuk which means to meet. This There are 21 masks of Barong people together while paying respect
performance symbolizes the meeting Brutuk each one represents one to their age-old traditions. n
between Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalem role, from the king to the queen, By Agung Parameswara
Step
of Bali and remind people of what There are six steps to make a
made Bali famously known in the wooden sculpture, said one of
old days, said Luhgde Suryatini the men with a statue of Rama and
(Surya), the curator of the resorts Shinta, the Balinese legendary love
LEARN BALINESE
cultural program. We sell their icon, in his hands. Im currently on
ARTS AND CRAFTS AT artworks here, but thats not our the second phase where I need to
GANESHA CULTURAL main purpose. We want to show the smoothen the statue using one of
CENTRE daily lives of Balinese people, what these tools.
they used to do before the tourism
industry grew on the island.
L
ocated within the area of To reach this purpose, Ganesha
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Cultural Centre scouted talented
Jimbaran Bay, the Ganesha Balinese local artists and invited
Cultural Centre takes guests them to hold a workshop once a
closer to Balinese arts and week at the center. We have artists
crafts. Workshops conducted by from Bangli to teach Sokasi-weaving,
Balinese artists who still produce women from Karangasem for the
artworks in their hometown are songket-making, and craftsmen
available every day based on a from Ketut Puja Gallery in Gianyar
schedule. for the wood-carving workshop,
Ganesha Cultural Centre used to Surya continued. We also invite
be Ganesha Gallery. The function artists from Gianyar for the ceramic
artist has to redo everything all over eve of Silent Day, an Ogoh-Ogoh parade is held across the island, and the
again. I couldnt do that to her. With giant dolls are burnt at the end of the night to banish the negative spirits.
two pieces of wood were tied to The Monster Doll-Making class is available at Rp. 200,000/person for
my body, I continued where she left non-staying guests and is a complimentary for the staying guests. Guests
off Murni has done a part of the can also make a mini Ogoh-Ogoh and take it home as a souvenir (with
fabric beautifully. While listening additional charge) or bring their creation to the Ogoh-Ogoh Parade at the
to Murnis instructions, I studied the resort on March 27.
T
he tables are covered with hotels swimming pool, Rajas takes traditional dishes. Here in Rajas, we
white ower-patterned Balinese cuisine to a whole new present these traditional dishes with
tablecloths. On each table, level by recreating age-old Balinese a ve-star presentation.
bronze plates and cutlery recipes using premium local produce It took the culinary team of Nusa
are placed neatly, and a and serving them in a sophisticated Dua Beach Hotel & Spa around a
bronze goblet becomes the center presentation. Raja means king year to do research on the Balinese
piece. Some Balinese wooden and at Rajas, diners will be treated traditional dishes and cooking
artworks adorn the walls, while on like one techniques for authenticity. We
the other side of the room, a sphere gathered some chefs and cooks
and a kober (usually used for a REAL BALI from several areas in Bali. We held
Balinese ceremony) and several The dishes at Rajas are inspired a competition where they had to
silver bokor (to place offerings by several areas in Bali, one of present the signature food of their
during a ritual) are on display. them being the Puri Klungkung. The hometown, the resorts Senior Sous
That is the luxurious setting of resorts Sous Chef Tournant Ida Chef Ketut Mudana explained how
Rajas Balinese Restaurant at Nusa Bagus Oka stated, Puri Klungkung they did the research before opening
Dua Beach Hotel & Spa which is is the pioneer of Balinese food. Rajas. Then we researched
very much inspired by Balinese The people there often make different kind of cooking techniques.
royal families. Located near the new innovations that become our We tried to implement modern
was served in delicious coconut only make the meat tender, but also coconut ice cream, dadar gulung,
turmeric curry sauce. Another makes the spices blend beautifully jaje ketan, kacang hijau and more.
highlight from the main course is together. And unlike the other dishes The cendol is another delicious
the Sate Gede which is a gigantic that are served on a plate, the Bebek option inspired by street food. Rajas
barbecued chicken, lamb and beef Betutu is especially presented on a also has selections of ice cream
skewer served with long bean salad trolley, and the waiter or waitress made of local ingredients, like the
and sweet chili coriander dressing. will carve the meat and serve it to red bean ice cream. n
Of course, as the signature menu the diners. By Risty Nurraisa
of Rajas, the Bebek Betutu is not to To have a sweet ending, dont
be missed. Served for four persons, forget to save some room for dessert. Rajas Balinese Restaurant
the slow-cooked whole duck is The Balinese Sweets is the star of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
marinated with 16 different Balinese the dessert list as it elevates Balinese BTDC Lot-N4, Nusa Dua
spices and wrapped in palm leaves. street-food sweets to a high-quality (0361) 771-210
The slow cooking technique does not dish, consisting of fried bananas, www.nusaduahotel.com
Travel
antiques, especially Balinese
antiques, to the younger generation
and local tourists because they
N
estled in Lodtunduh introduce Indonesian historical arts
Village in Ubud, to the world and preserve them for BB: What are your visions and
Komang Ary future generations. To Bali & Beyond missions in opening the Komang Ary
Indonesian Arts (BB), he shares the importance of Indonesian Arts Gallery?
Gallery is home protecting national treasures KA: My mission is to make the
to age-old art objects from statues, younger generation fall in love with
textiles, artefacts, paintings and BB: What made you interested in Indonesian antiques. I hope they
more. All are sourced across the antiques? are also encouraged to preserve
archipelago. For owner Komang KA: Ive been interested in antiques and appreciate the high values
Ary (KA), this gallery does not only since 2004 when I was only 22 and history of the objects. As an
serve as a place to display his years old. I think my love for art dealer, I believe I have the
collection but also as a way to help antiques is in my DNA. I am the responsibility to save and preserve
Count Your
Blessings
HEAD TO THE DIVINE AND SPIRITUALLY-
INCLINED HOTEL TUGU BALI TO
INCORPORATE ANCIENT BALINESE
TRADITIONS AND RITUALS TO YOUR SPA
AND WELLNESS REGIME
D
edicated to preserving Peranakan and Balinese therapies mind, meditating, awakening
and celebrating and health treatments; traditions that the consciousness, and nding
Javanese and Balinese combine spirituality with physical unexpected sources of inner power.
spirituality and their healing to achieve the ultimate Like the rest of the property, these
old artistic cultural harmony of mind, body and soul chambers are littered with old
heritage and traditions, Hotel Tugu and enhance total deep relaxation objects and artworks, recounting
Bali is set to be a unique, living- and state of peacefulness. stories from the archipelagos rich
breathing museum hotel, home to its Waroeng Djamoe Spa is cultural heritage.
Indonesian proprietors vast personal comprised of six intoxicatingly
collection of artworks, antiquities charming garden kamar (chambers), CHAMBER OF SECRET
and vintage furnishings from across individually spaced out amongst Waroeng Djamoe Spa has two
the archipelago. Amongst the the pretty beachside gardens and stand-out rituals that are intrinsic to
rapid development in Canggu, this linked by stone walkways dissecting ancient Balinese Hindu traditions.
internationally-acclaimed boutique manicured lawns. Each offers a One is Purnama (Full Moon) and
hotel is one of the originals and different theme and ambiance Tilem (New Moon) Massage Energy
evocative of bygone times that rests specic to certain treatments and of the Bali Moon that celebrates
alongside Canggus surf beach. Hotel a natural setting for relaxing the the highly signicant and sacred Full
Tugu Bali is standing on a sacred
blessed ground and neighbouring a
revered temple.
Nestled within the hotel is a spa
sanctuary that is equally wildly
atmospheric and mystical, like
none other on the island. Waroeng
Djamoe Spa the name is derived
from ancient Javanese for traditional
apothecary connects with ancient
mystical East rituals, focusing on
The Kamar Mantra.
centuries-old authentic Javanese,
and New Moon days and the good expressions of enlightened sarong, I found my therapist slowly
fortunes and energies emitting from awareness, achieved through pan-frying locally grown, organic
these magical rays. It incorporates a verbal formula repeated in a herbs, roots and spices galangal,
a rhythmic hand massage and meditation or incantation. Good ginger, lemon grass and cloves to
moon-lit sunken bath strewn with Gods and spirits are believed to name a few over a gas ame on
frangipani petals, ended with a reside in this room, maybe within the the oor. This natural concoction,
Hindu beachside cleansing ritual and several Hindu stone statues standing blessed beforehand by a local
blessing ceremony at Tugus sacred here. The walls are adorned with Mangku (priest), is then poured
Barong Temple which makes it more ancient artworks, a sunken stone into cotton pouches, kept warmed
of a spiritual experience rather than bath is edged with candles, and and administered as heated herbal
a spa treatment. The other one is Tibetan red box lanterns hang from compresses, and nally repeatedly
Pijitan Mantra or Eastern Spirituality the ceiling. Traditional gamelan massaged in a circular motion over
Massage (available for 90 minutes at music plays softly in the background my entire body. This is alternated with
Rp. 874,500++) which is a part of and balcony doors are left open, a rm hand massage using warmed
the spas Pijitan Eastern Massages allowing natural ocean breeze to cold-pressed virgin coconut oil,
series. This ritual is a must-try and for ow in. The stage is set. freshly made in-house using cooking
that reason, I opted for this treatment As for all treatments, my therapist and extraction methods handed
on my last visit to the spa. collects me from the hotel lobby down from village grandmothers. The
This profoundly meditative and which is another sensational, wafting aromas of sweet incense,
blissful therapy must be administered historically-charged kamar to aromatic fresh herbs and coconut oil
in the Kamar Mantra; a spiritually lead me to Kamar Mantra that is is additionally sensuous.
charged, exquisite chamber inspired secluded away on the rst oor of an This deep healing tissue massage
by Hindu mantras multifaceted outer wing. Once changed into my is simultaneously combined with the
We took a closer
look at the photo
account, and could s sent to our Instag
nt help but fall in ram
So we decided to love with them all
repost one of our .
tagging @baliand favorites here. Ke
beyondmagazine ep
photos might be on Ins tagram and your
in our next issues!
@soul_ofa_gypsy
beautifully captured
Temple. sunset in Tanah Lot
CO TESY PHOTOS,
BALII COURTESY
COUR
ALL OTHERS BY RISTY NURRAISA
O AN
RESORT
ORT
OR AND S PA BAL
D SPA
It was one be
YA NA RES
autiful day at
to indulge in Alila Seminya
some healthy k. Dont forget
AYANA
KINGDOM
OF LOVE
WELCOME TO THE RAMAYANA-INSPIRED
RESORT IN NUSA DUA
O
nce upon a time
in a land far
away, a princess
named Shinta
was captured by
Rahwana, an evil spirit of Alengka.
Her lover, Prince Rama, soon made
it his mission to rescue her with the
help of his loyal supporters, among
a few of them were his brother
Laksmana and the monkey advisor
of Anggada, General Hanoman. The
mission took 12 years to accomplish,
and it wasnt until Hanoman burnt
down the capital city of Alengka
that Rama nally put an end to
Rahwanas life and retrieved Shinta
back to his arms. Together, Prince
Rama and Princess Shinta returned
to Ayodya Palace, where they lived
happily ever after with their twin
sons.
That is the summary of the epic
love story of Ramayana or also
known as Rama-Shinta. The
legend has an important place in
the hearts of the Balinese that it
is often depicted in a traditional
dance performance, including the
Kecak Fire Dance. This particular
The Spiritual
Heart of Bali
More than three million Balinese people practice Hinduism. Their faith is at the very center of
their lives, family and community. The Balinese pray to their Gods every day and are involved
in various ceremonies and celebrations virtually every week.
To the majority of Balinese, being devoted to their spiritual life, family, and community
is their highest priority unlike most western cultures where material wealth often becomes a
measure of life success. While many tourists and expats visit the more famous Hindu temples
and witness traditional dances and ceremonies, very few appreciate the level of devotion and
commitment of the Balinese to their spiritual lives.
The Balinese spiritual ceremonies are often referred to as the hidden or secret life of
Bali by western authors. However, the reality is in fact the exact opposite. The Balinese are
remarkably open and inclusive with regard to their religion and various ceremonies.
While many Balinese temples are architecturally interesting, they really come to life during
ceremonies when they are abuzz with activities such as prayers, the giving and blessing of
offerings, sacrices, music and dances. The strong sense of spirituality, colors, sounds, and
never-ending activity is a wonderful spectacle to experience.
However, nding out what ceremonies are on, when and where across Bali is not so
straightforward. The best resource for this is denitely not the internet but simply the annual
Balinese calendar, which is readily available across the island. The calendar contains many
details such as special Hindu religious days, Balinese days and week periods (which are not
Gregorian!), full and new moon nights, and major Balinese holy days like Galungan, Kuningan
and Nyepi. The most valuable is a separate listing of all odalan (temple ceremonies) by date
and temple across the island for the larger temples, these are a major spectacle. This is
where to nd out in advance whats on, when, and where.
In conclusion, to experience the real Bali, try to see some non-tourist Balinese temple
ceremonies. I have found without exception that the Balinese are very welcoming and open to
visitors. The only strong advice is to dress appropriately, behave respectfully with a low prole.
Sadly some tourists believe if they have a camera in their hand they can freely wander around
during ceremonies as they please. Thankfully nowadays the pecalang (Balinese security) are
generally in attendance to quickly sort out such indiscretions!
By Phil Green
Photos by Phil Green (www.baliphotoblog.smugmug.com)
JUST
seekers. And that is what Austrian
Alexander Springenschmidt, creator
of the Bali Bike Park and successful
entrepreneur, had fully understood.
Two years ago, he opened the
Ride!
rst and only bike park in Bali.
Originally established for the expert
riders, Bali Bike Park also gives a
sensational experience for beginners
and those who are simply curious to
discover downhill, a discipline that is
closer to an extreme sport than to an
CYCLING THROUGH BALIS easy ride!
LUSH GREENERY IN BALI BIKE PARK
HEART OF BEDUGUL
Armed with my heart and basic
cycling skills, I decided to give
up my beach time for a day full
of adventure. Bali Bike Park, here
I come! My day began early in
the morning at an area next to
Chillhouse, a meeting place for
surfers that Alexander created when
Canggu was still undiscovered.
With the help of the staff and Victor,
my boyfriend who loves to ride a
bike in France, I chose my bike
and my helmet. Elbow pads and
kneepads are optional but highly
P
aradise beaches, tropical
heat and dream waves
those are probably the
rst pictures you have
when you think about Bali.
However, Bali is much more than just
white sandy beaches and bikinis.
If you go to the inland regions, you
will discover a whole new world
where active volcanoes, rice elds
and lush forest become incredible
Welcome to Bali Bike Park!
playgrounds for the adrenaline
www.balibikepark.com
Di scover
Toraja
OUR CONTRIBUTOR TAUFAN WIJAYA TOOK A
TRIP TO TORAJA AND REVEALED ITS UNIQUE
RITUAL TO RESPECT THE DEAD
R
ainfall made the soil damp valued by their shape, size, color,
and the scent of wet earth and horns. The special buffaloes
lingered in the air. Green are saleko and bonga that have
paddy elds pleased a combination of white and black
my eyes. A number of color. The price of these dual-color
Tongkonan (Toraja traditional buffaloes is about ten times higher
houses) adorned the landscape with than regular black buffalo of the
their exquisite ornaments and buffalo same size.
horns. This is the beautiful scenery There are hundreds of buffaloes
that welcomed me in Toraja, an in the market. The government
area in South Sulawesi that is also provides a special holding lot for
known as the Land of The Heavenly the herd. Men wearing sarongs with
Kings. a cigarette between their ngers
Toraja is famous for the way local were roaming around in the market,
people see death differently than some are selling their stocks while
any other region in the Indonesian others are checking out to buy some.
archipelago. The Torajan burial Some colorful painted kiosks stand
sites, mummication and rituals for
the dead are the most unique and
attractive traditions for visitors to
see. However, a friend of mine told
me that Toraja is more than all that.
It didnt take me long to agree with
him once I arrived there.
along the buffalo market selling and Rambu Solo, a funeral ritual STORY OF THE DEAD
daily needs and meals. On the other where family and relatives take the In Toraja, a buffalo can also be used
side of the market is the pig market body or the remains of the deceased as a token to pay a debt or other
which is lled with the sound of their to their last resting place like a transaction. Buffaloes also symbolize
squeals as they are transferred from grave, a cave or a silo. The Torajans hierarchy, and thats why many of
one vehicle to another. It is as if they believe that the dead people are the Tongkonan have buffalos horns.
know that destiny awaits them. in a state of illness, and they will The more horns they have, the higher
It is heart breaking to see these become eternal beings when they position they sit in the society.
animal transactions, but livestock are taken to their last resting place. Tongkonan is a boat-shaped
plays an important part in the Rambu Solo ritual costs a lot of traditional Toraja house made of
Torajan life. Buffaloes have a crucial money, thus it can take months to wood and bamboo. Tongkonan is
role in the tradition they often years for a family to hold this ritual derived from tongkon which means
become an offering in Rambu Tuka after a family member passes away. to sit together. It is actually more
burial ceremony is held. It can be I visited a Tongkonan in Kete live and dress in the past.
easily recognized by the stack of Kesu, one of the best well-known From the entrance, we can already
horns at the center of the house. Tongkonan with a burial sites, see that Kete Kesu is very well
Members living in one complex are situated on a hill. Kete Kesu complex maintained. The area is clean with
of the same ancestor line from their is nestled away from the main road, cobbled pavement for easy access.
grandmothers side (Nene) the and is surrounded by rice elds The burial site at the back of Kete
A
midst the unstoppable a man who will control it from the wear the doll to busk on the streets
development in inside. or around the housing complex in
Jakarta, there is a On my recent visit to Pasar Jakarta.
small area near Pasar Gaplok, I saw how the local people In the old days, ondel-ondel used
Gaplok (Gaplok make ondel-ondel, not only to to be called barongan. The name
Market) at Kramat Pulo in Central preserve their Betawi culture but changed when Betawi legendary
Jakarta that is home to ondel-ondel, also to earn a living. The residents artist Benyamin Sueb sang the
the icon of Jakarta. Ondel-ondel is a of Kramat Pulo very much depend Ondel-ondel song (a Betawi
giant efgy from Betawi (the original on ondel-ondel. For years, they have traditional song about the giant dolls
tribe of Jakarta) that has become been making barongan a different parade) at a Betawi cultural event.
the symbol of Betawi culture in the name for ondel-ondel for artistic Some said ondel-ondel means to
capital city. The huge doll can t performances. They also often swing which is derived from their
size, only 30 centimeters tall. These party. as Kebayoran Lama or even further
small-sized ondel-ondel dolls are The fee for an ondel-ondel to Tangerang or Tangerang Selatan
mostly popular for souvenirs that performance varies, depending to perform ondel-ondel every day
are made to order. People usually on the music that accompanies from 12 p.m. and go back home to
request ondel-ondel for display or the performance. An ondel-ondel Kramat Pulo at 12 a.m. n
performances on special events performance with live acoustic By Edna Tarigan
SAVING GILI
If youre visiting Gili Trawangan, you can give a little something back by giving your holiday trash to Gili Eco Trust before you leave
the island. Gili Eco Trust now can collect, separate and recycle PET bottles, hard plastics, cardboards, books, magazines, newspapers,
tins, aluminum cans, plastic bags, plastic glasses and more. All the wastes will be compressed and sent to Lombok where they will be
sold the prots will be used to support Gili Eco Trusts future projects. Or better yet, give more contribution and join the Debris Free
Friday to help clean the beaches at Gili Divers (March 3), Gili Teak (March 10), Pondok Santi (March 24) and DSM (March 31)
from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., and enjoy a free beer as a reward at the end of the day.
Gili Eco Trust
Jalan Ikan Hiu, Gili Trawangan Lombok
0813-3960-0553
www.facebook.com/Giliecotrust
A FUN WEEKEND
Yoga by the beach, BBQ dinner and Sunday
Brunch at Shiki Japanese Restaurant A Fun-
Filled Island Getaway event by Hilton Bali was
surely a weekend full of joy.
www.baliresort.hilton.com
HELPING HANDS
Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is striving to provide hygienic
products for underprivileged families in Bali by joining
ROLE Foundations Soap for Hope program. Through this
program, the resort together with the foundation collects
used hotel guest soaps and bring them to a center where
the used soaps will be broken down, sanitized and recon-
structed organic fragrances are also incorporated. Then,
the recycled soaps are distributed to a number of orphan-
ages as well as elderlies and disadvantage people in Bali
for free. The soaps are also available for purchase in ROLE
Foundations shop. www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com
THROUGH
THE LENS
Located at SATTU
Studio in Kerobokan,
Terralogical hosted an
exhibition displaying
photographs captured
by their two new
brainchildren; Lenterra
and Venterra. Titled A
Humble Beginning, this
exhibition showcased
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
AIRLINES Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT
E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro,
AIRPORT OPERATOR Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
Tel: (0361) 751-011 FRANCE TIMOR LESTE
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar MUSEUMS
CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
Ngurah Rai International Aiprort (ARMA)
Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 GERMANY UNITED STATES Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229.
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id ABIAN KAPAS
Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar
ROYAL BRUNEI HUNGARY HEALTH&MEDICAL Tel: (0361) 227-176
Tel: (0361) 757-292 Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur.
Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot ANTONIO BLANCO
SINGAPORE AIRLINES Email: huconbali@telkom.net more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For Bali open daily 8 am-5 pm
Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383 INDIA Belly, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms,
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar but not gastro-related infections. A fever along ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 Fax.(0361) 259-505 antibiotics. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
24-hour access: 08071-807-807 Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic
ITALY drinks under various brand names are widely GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL
MERPATI Lotus Enterprises Building available and are known to replenish body LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran,
Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran hydration and replace uids. For discomfort, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday -
Tel: (0361) 411-364 Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends
Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org avoid fruits and spicy foods.
Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya,
JAPAN fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485
MANDALA AIRLINES Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not
Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059,
Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar
Call center 08041234567 immediately.
MALAYSIA Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit MUSEUM LE MAYEUR
NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.
Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun.
THAI INTERNATIONAL Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA
Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 MEXICO AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended
PT Puri Astina Putra Building are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers
QATAR AIRWAYS Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar have multiple partners from around the world. MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074,
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 They are not checked for sexually transmitted 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud
Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
International Terminal, 2nd . Room OP.II.8 available over the counter at pharmacies.
East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport NETHERLANDS MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta CLINIC&HOSPITAL Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud,
Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
DEPARTURE E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
Arrive at the airport two hours prior to 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, MUSEUM RUDANA
departure. A Rp. 150,000 international ROYAL DANISH medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
departure tax is required. Domestic departure Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361
fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515 MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315,
for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
International departure. Ngurah Rai Intl Airport, BIMC Hospital Kuta
Tel: (0361) 751-011 POLAND 24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h TOURIST INFO.
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Medical Centre, international standard hospital
CONSULATES Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan with fully equipped ambulances, emergency INTEGRATED TOURISM
Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC)
AUSTRALIA, CANADA, E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com radiology and pathology, ward rooms, A one-stop tourist information complex of
NEW ZEALAND international and multilingual team of medical ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali,
Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 SLOVAKIA experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central
Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2,
E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701
NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
BRITAIN SPAIN BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h
Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Medical Centre, international standard hospital BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM
E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 with fully equipped ambulances, emergency OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta
E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, Tel: (0361) 756-175/76
BRAZIL radiology and pathology, ward rooms,
Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta SWEDEN & FINLAND international and multilingual team of medical BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE
Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar
Email: brazilconsul@bali.net Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 Dental Centre. Tel: (0361) 222-387
E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363,
CHILE Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150 SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION
Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja
Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar SILOAM HOSPITALS Tel: (0362) 251-41
E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 24-hour emergency 779-911
E-mail: bali@honrep.ch Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION
CZECH REPUBLIC Tel: +62-361-779-900 SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar
Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81, E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm