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Diagram transmitter: Tetsuo Kogowa anarchy.translocal.jp text, photo, mount tran
smitter: LotteMeijer lotte@broadcastyourpodcast.com ww.broadcastyourpodcast.com.
Portuguese translation: Eziquiel Mint Washington Roberto Lerias Nivaldo Lima Sér
gio Neves Oliveira João Carlos Pereira Junior Ortiz Fernando Oliveira Murilo Pol
ese Carretta Takahashi
Portuguese layout tutorial: Paul Capra editoraderiva.multiply.com
This guide is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Shar
eAlike 2.5 Netherlands License. cc
To make the transmitter, you will need the following elements: • a piece of wire
antenna (1m) • a wire 10 cm copper diameter 0.8mm • a battery connector for 9.0
V • a piece of board phenolite with a copper side in the following size (5.5 x
6.3 cm) • a plug to 3.5mm audio cable. • a transistor BC337
Two capacitors of 0.01 uF capacitor • a • a 10 pF 1 uF polarized capacitor tri
mmer 20pF • a • a 470 ohm resistor • a 10k ohm resistor
orange) (yellow - violet - black) (brown - black - orange) (red - violet - black
• a resistor 27k ohm resistor
- I will refer to components with the words "head", "leg" and "foot." As you can
see in the picture above. - You can see what the value of a capacitor looking f
or this information to the head of the capacitor. Is usually written in small pr
int. - All resistors are color coded. You will see five bands on the resistor, t
he four color-coded end with brown.
For the preparation of the board: • A wire cutter (or a stylus) Cola instantan
eous. For the construction of the transmitter: needle-nose pliers (for holding
and bending parts) cutter (to cut the feet) • a soldering iron soldering sp
onge (or cotton) to clean your iron (solder) rest of the soldering iron sold
er wire (thinner the better) To use and test the transmitter: • a stick or other
long piece of wood or plastic • A sound device with a 3.5mm headphone output •
a radio * An Bateira 9 Volt
From now on I will refer to the soldering iron just like iron.
This card is called phenolite of a face. On one side is covered with copper, and
the other a kind of resin. You will need a big piece (5 x 5.5 cm) and five smal
ler (10 x 8 mm). [D] Select a long straight 8mm wide strip of his piece phenol
ite. [A] Repeat this several times until you feel you could snap the strip with
pliers. [B] Cut / break five pieces of this strip: First pre-cut the lines wit
h your knife, then • Hold the strip with your cutting pliers and bend / break th
e other party with needle-nose pliers long [C]
At this stage you should glue the small square to the plate. - First, ping five
drops of glue on the copper plate, three on the bottom, two on top. As you see a
bove. - Then, with help of tongs, place the small squares, with the copper side
up, on the drops of glue. - Allow to dry. While waiting, call welding and a litt
le wet sponge. Use Weld-throw it to protect your table from burns. Use the plier
s tips indeed. Superglues toes are superirritantes
3. Wind the coil
Before you start building the transmitter, you need a coil. This coil has to be
made of 4 turns of copper wire 0.8mm and diameter of each round should be about
5mm. The mini jack (plug) is a perfect tool for this! Position the part of the
copper wire and 0.8mm mini jack. [A] Now twist the wire around the plug 3 tim
es. Looking up it should look like 4 laps, with two legs sticking out the bottom
. [B] Bend your legs out, so that the wound part, is somewhat higher than the
feet [C] Because This copper wire is plastic-coated, it will be almost impossi
ble to solder it. So you have to scratch the plastic off the feet with the stylu
s. It's easier if you still keep it attached to the plug. [D]
For soldering easier life. It is recommended that you first cover the small squa
re with solder (melted). Hold your hot iron directly on a cobrequadrado for tw
o to three seconds. Place then the solder wire at the point where the solderin
g iron is found with copper. (Hold your iron there) Keep the solder wire on th
e board until the entire surface of the small square is covered evenly with the
weld. • In the rest of the manual,€I will refer to these smaller squares with th
e names you see written in the figure.
I usually stick my plate at the table with a piece of tape, so that does not mov
e when I'm working.
Now we start really. Take a blob of solder on the board about an inch beneath
the square of the middle button. [A] Now take the 10k Ohm resistor resistor. H
e is the sequence that has the color brown-black-orange-brown. Bend your legs wi
th pliers in order to make little feet in them. They should be about 1 cm apart
from each other and fit between the middle button and the blob underneath it. [B
] Heat the solder on the middle button until it melts. Hold the resistor wit
h the pliers and insert a foot in the solder. Take your iron and allow the leg t
o straighten and dry in the solder. This should only take a few seconds. [C] N
ow heat the bubble down, and stick the other foot of the resistor in it. Cut t
he pieces of feet that are too long. [D]
Take care that the bubbles do not stick weld on each other. If they stick togeth
er: try to separate them, pulling a little with your soldering iron, or use your
knife. The fewer the legs, the more power you will have your transmitter.
6. Solder the resistors OF 27K AND 470 OHM
For a blob on the plate below the right square. • Place a drop of solder on th
e board below the lower right. Get the 470 Ohm resistor (yellow, violet, black
, brown), bend your legs. Weld a square in the lower right leg and another in th
e blob of solder on the board and made to eliminate the excess feet. Now solde
r the 27k resistor (brown black orange red violet) between the square of the mid
dle-bottom and the middle square.
Now we will solder the capacitors. First get a 10pF capacitor. He probably loo
ks like the 0.01uF. The difference is the text printed on the head. The 10pF usu
ally comes with a "10" written and 0.01uF comes with "103". You can use a magnif
ying glass to see it because the letters are small. Bend your legs capacitor s
o that it fits between the square top and bottom right. Now hold with pliers a
nd solder.
If you have enough solder, just heat up the solder on the square and pull off th
e soldering iron on it, to create a larger bubble. You can mix everything, provi
ded it is done well and that the legs are covered well.
As you read before, you may recognize the 0.01uF capacitors, via the number 103
written on his face. Produce a spot on the left top center of the square, and a
spot in the lower-central square. - Fold the ends, solder a 0.01uF capacitor bet
ween the square and the upper-left point, and one across the square and the lowe
r-central section below. Again eliminating the clutter of tips.
After that, you can cut the ends. This can sometimes simplify, so that they are
not among the parts when you weld them.
The polarized capacitor is special. He needs to be welded into place. Take the p
olarized capacitor (this is the part with a large black tip and long). You'll fi
nd that on one side there is a band with a dash (-) of different color (in this
case white). This is the downside. You have to weld the leg of downside to the l
ower-left square, and the other leg (positive) square in the bottom-center.
You may recognize the positive and negative capacitor polarized by the length of
the legs. The negative leg is shorter.
Now is the time of the trimer. In this part, you can later change the frequency
of its transmitter, which is very useful. - Try to find it. It is a small green
round with three small feet. [A] - Bend your legs out. [B] Now you must solder t
he middle leg to the top right square, [C] and the other two feet straight on th
e board. Pay careful with your fingers, because the part gets very hot when you'
re soldering.
The COP 1 1 soldier.
Take the small coil you did in step 3. It must be soldered between the top two s
quares, it is tempting to hold the spool with your fingers, but it's a bad idea.
The welding of the coil is a little difficult. - Grasp the plug on the coil wit
h a piece of tape. - Make sure you have enough solder on the upper half (add a l
ittle more if it is not enough.) - Melt the solder on the upper middle and pull
one leg of the coil. - Do the same with the other top button and the other leg o
f the coil. Now you can remove the plug.
If the solder does not stick to the feet of the coil you need to scratch it a li
ttle more with the iron.
The fit of the battery has two wires attached to it, one red, one black. Red is
positive, the negative black. - Do not attach the battery to the battery snap -
Drip a bit of solder meioalto above the square, and attach it the black wire. -
Solder the red wire on the square of the medium-high heat.
13. Welding HOME AUDIO
The audio signal transmitter will enter the cable with the attachments to plug i
n your MP3 player or computer. - Cut off about two inches of plastic wire. You s
ee one (mono) or two (stereo) core (s) covered in colored plastic, and a bunch o
f wires around them. [A] - Wrap the external wires together. [B] - Now, remove t
he plastic about an inch of wire (s) (be careful not to cut them off), and wrap
the wires together as well. [C] Now, solder the wires in the core square esquerd
ofundo, and the other on the board. Make sure the two do not touch! [D]
14. Place the antenna
- First peel 1 cm from the antenna wire, to expose the wire. - Wrap the ends of
the exposed wire. - Solder it in the square below right.
There will be a great help to an antenna longer possible, since each frequency h
as an optimal size of antenna. We will discuss this later.
The tricky part is the BC337 transistor. If he is not done properly, the transmi
tter may not work. - Here's the part that has three legs. If you drive straight
side facing his side, his left leg is called the "C", the average is called the
"B", and the right leg is called the "E". [A] - Bend the middle leg forward. trá
sdireito right foot and left the back-left (as shown). [B] - Now take the transi
stor. Now for the middle leg, which you bend forward, it will be a soldier squar
e in the middle-ground, right foot touches the square of the right-bottom, and t
he left foot touches the left-bottom square.
And finally it came time to test. - Turn on your radio, and look for a frequency
[A] - Attach your battery to the battery clip. [B] - Now use the plastic screwd
river (or any other nonconductive material (plastic / wood) to turn the little s
crew on top of the variable capacitor slowly until you hear the static on your r
adio disappear. [C] - Fit Now the plug into the headphone output of an audio dev
ice, such as your mp3 player, cdplayer or computer. And put that device to play.
[D] Sometimes you have to choose a different frequency. As a last resort you ca
n scanning the dial to see if you listen to your mp3 player anywhere. If you do
not hear her during testing, you can try the steps below:
- Make sure all parts are in place. - Check that the polarized capacitor (the bl
ack object on the left button) has the negative sign to the left. - Check if the
variable capacitor has his leg in the middle square and the other on the board.
- Move all the pieces to see if they are united right. If they start to move: p
ut more solder. Make sure that the parties have good contacts with the board or
the copper contacts. - Make sure your battery is fixed and is not discharged. Te
st again. If you do not hear anything, try the following: - Remove the BC337 tra
nsistor switch back and taking care of the correct position. - Try a different f
requency on your radio, and increase the volume a bit.
17. Trim ANTENNA
Once you find a frequency that will give you a good reception, you can cut the a
ntenna to get even better. The length of the antenna should be longer or shorter
depending on the frequency in accordance with the following formula: size in in
ches = (300 / frequency) * 25 For example, if you're broadcasting on 100FM frequ
ency, your antenna should be (300/100 ) * 25 = 75 cm in length. When calculating
the size of your antenna by the formula, cut it to size.
The frequency of transmission may change slightly, depending on how much the bat
tery is charged. If you plan to use the transmitter in a fixed position, you may
want to buy a power supply of 9-12 volts at a local electronics store. You can
cut the plug from its outer end and solder the transmitter.
Do not let the power supply connected while soldering.