DESIGNER This bracelet is created in bead embroidery on nonwoven fabric using a

crystal stone and crystal beads, pearls, glass beads, and seed beads. It

B E A D C L A S S
can be sized up to 9.
MATERIALS

S H E R RY S E R A F I N I Delica #630 lined semi-matte steel (248)

Toho 15o #223 metallic bronze (1114)

15o #21F matte silver lined crystal (200)

Glitterati
Sizable up to 9 bracelet
NO
SYMBOL
11o #21F matte silver lined crystal (1016)

Toho 11o #161 crystal AB (720)

Czech 8o #20123 lustered transparent beige (150)

Miyuki 6o #242, steel lined crystal (10)

3mm Swarovski pearl, light gray (46)

5mm Czech center-hole flower, matte crystal AB (10)

4mm bicone black diamond AB (70)

4mm bicone crystal AB2X (30)

3.5-4mm natural freshwater pearls, mauve (18)

Also: Swarovski #4227 marquis stone, 32x17mm, crystal AB; nonwoven stitch-
ing base such as Pellon 50 weight (6 x 9 piece); silver leather (5 x 9 piece)
Toho One-G or Nymo nylon thread; #12 gloving needles. Glue needed (not
included in kit).

2008 Sherry Serafini, all rights reserved. These

materials are produced by Beads East LLC under li-
cense from Sherry Serafini. These materials, in whole
by or in part, may not be copied, loaned, shared,
posted in any public or electronic manner, used
PO Box 1315 in a kit, used commercially, used for instructional
Manchester CT 06042 purposes without the prior express written consent of
www.beadseast.com the copyright holder.
Glitterati
bracelet designed by
The creation of this bracelet involves a number of beading techniques,
including peyote stitch in the round and bead embroidery. A complete
tutorial on peyote in the round is included at the end of these directions.
Bead embroidery techniques will be embedded within the directions at
the appropriate points.
BACKSTITCH is used to stitch the
beads of the initial ring. Your DVD
contains animated directions for
backstitch. Bring the thread from
back to front and add two beads. Run the thread front to back at the end of those
beads. Bring the thread up again in the starting hole, then run through both added
beads. Now add two beads more, and bring the thread up between the first two
beads stitched. Run through THREE beads, then add two. Bring the thread front to
back at the end of the added beads, then back to front three beads back in the
row. Run through those three beads, then add two more. Continue in this manner as
directed until the area to be stitched is complete.

To avoid costly errors, we suggest that you read the directions in their
entirety before beginning. A complete materials list is included; review
1G Starting at either 1H Bring your thread 1I Add two more rounds
this list and identify all your components before beginning. The symbols peak point, sew one out of the first bead of Delicas for a total of
and names used to represent materials will remain consistent throughout Delica on each of the you put in place. As five rounds. In the next
these directions. dots in the ring around directed in the section round you will make a
the stone, for a total of on peyote stitch in the reduction at the points
STEP 1 Bezel the marquis stone. The centerpiece stone is secured to the fifty-six (56). The beads round, add a third of the growing surround.
nonwoven with a bezel of seed beads. Because the ends of the bezel are on this initial ring will round of peyote.
pointed, youll make a reduction at the end points in the last round which will form the first TWO
shape the bezel to fit the stone. First, secure the paper centerpiece pattern (last rounds of peyote stitch.
page) to the nonwoven with glue or by basting. Then trim off all but about
1/4 of excess all around (1A,
1B).
1B
Sew one 11o seed bead 1A
on each of the four blue dots
within the marquis area. These
beads will support the stone so it remains level. Place a generous dab of glue
between the 11os. Place the stone on the glue and allow the assembly to
dry for a few minutes. NOTE: You can, at your option, stitch the initial ring of
beads (placing one Delica on each of the dots in the dotted line) and the first
few rounds of peyote, then glue the stone in place. You may find this easier 1J In the next round, 1K In the next round, This is how the points
than holding the stone and stitching at the same time. skip one space at both place one bead in the of the surround will
1C 1D 1E 1F points. Run the thread skipped spaces, thereby look on both ends.
down into the previous reducing the surround by This completes the sur-
round to hide it at the one bead at each point. rounding of the stone.
skip point.
STEP 2 Stitch a row Following diagrams 3A through3C, add 11o 21F all around the outside edge
of Delicas around the of the completed, trimmed surround. Place one bead on each of the marks
outside of the surround. you made in the previous step.
Use backstitch again;
there does not need to
be a specific number
of beads in this row.
Secure your thread and
DELICA ROUND 3A 3B 3C 3D
trim it. Prepare the surround for decora-
tion by trimming around the outside edge
very close to the Delica round, removing Bring your thread out within 1/16th inch of the trimmed edge. Pick up one
the excess nonwoven/paper. bead. Run the thread from back to front in a loop, bringing the thread out very
close to the initial emergence point. Tighten the thread to bring the bead close
to the edge (3A). Pick up another bead, the bring the thread either from back
STEP 3 Add an edging around the center stone. If youve purchased a pattern to front or front to back (your preference) about one beads width away from the
only and are using a nonwoven lighter than 50-weight, cut another piece first thread. Run the thread through the added bead in the opposite direction and
identical to the trimmed bezel and baste it to the base of the bezel. If youve tighten the thread until the bead sits neatly on the edge (3B). The first bead will
purchased a kit, you dont need to add a second layer of nonwoven. not sit as neatly as the second. Repeat as for the second bead (3C), continuing
around the edge until you meet up with the first bead. To connect the last bead
Now use the graphic guide to the first bead, run the thread that emerges from the last bead through the first
and a peranent marker to bead, from outside to inside (3D). Tighten the thread; the first bead should sit
mark the location of each more neatly. Now secure the thread within the nonwoven and trim it.
bead on the edging. The
marks will not show in the STEP 4 Add decorations to the edging beads. Bring your thread out of one
completed bracelet. There of the edge beads at the point. Work away from that point, toward the other.
should be forty-four edge Pick up three 15o 21F, then run the thread through the next edge bead (4A).
beads, twenty-two between Tighten the thread to form a three-bead picot (4B). Run the thread through the
each of the points. next edge bead, from inside to outside (4C). Pick up three more 15o #21F and
run through the next edge bead, outside to inside (4D). Tighten the thread (4E).
Repeat all around; bring the thread out of the center bead of the first picot (4F).
GUIDE MARK ON
SURROUND EDGE
 4 continued. Add one 4mm bicone
crystal AB2X between the center
15os of each picot all around. Run a
second pass of thread through all the
crystals and center 15os for security.
Dont pull too tightly, or the round of
crystals may pucker.
Cut a new piece of nonwoven about 1/4 larger
all around than the surround with the crystal row.
Baste the decorated surround to the nonwoven
with invisible stitches.
Stitch one 15o #223, one 3mm
pearl, and one 15o #223 between
each of the crystals, so the pearl
nestles close to the center 15o of the
picots.
STEP 7 Adhere the band pattern
to the nonwoven. Using flexible
glue such as Alenes Jewel-It, attach
the band pattern to the nonwoven.
You may also baste the pattern to
the nonwoven. After adhering, trim
away all but about 1/4 of excess
nonwoven/pattern.
STEP 8 Determine the sizing and stitch the base rows
to the nonwoven. Fit the nonwoven pattern around your
wrist; allow about 3/8 for the hooks and eyes. When
youve determined the correct length, sew the base rows
in place. Following the pattern lines, stitch nine (9) Toho
11o #161 to each of the lines on the nonwoven. Use
backstitch or couching to attach the 11os, which will
form the base for the decorations.

In preparation for the final decoration of the

center stone, trim away the excess nonwoven just
outside the 15o/pearl round. Use the edge of the
trimmed nonwoven as a guide to cut a piece of
leather the same size. Spread a thin layer of glue
onto the back of the nonwoven and place the
leather, right side out, on top of it. Allow the glue
to dry for a few minutes.
STEP 5 Add the edging to the outside of the
leather-backed center stone. Use 11o #21F in the
same edging technique as before. Work all around
the outside, placing beads so their sides just touch.
STEP 6 Add the crystal decorations to the outside
of the leather-backed center stone. Decorations are
identical all around. Bring the thread out of one of
the edge 11os. *Pick up one 11o #21F, one 4mm
bicone black diamond AB, and one 15o #223. Skip
the 15o and run back through the crystal and the
11 . Run through the edge bead from outside to in-
o
BACKSTITCH COUCHING
STEP 9 Decorate the base rows. Review the decoration diagrams (next page)
before beginning. The diagrams below show the symbols used for each of the
beads in the decorations. At the start of each decoration row, you will bring
the thread out just at the base of the outermost 11o in the base row. Pick up the
beads of the first decoration, skip the anchor bead, then run the thread back
through the other beads of the decoration. The run the thread through the first
11o in the base row. Thereafter, youll pick up the beads of each decoration
and run through the next indicated bead in the row. You may find that youll
skip a space from time to time. Follow the diagrams in order to work the first
fifteen rows on each side.
15o #223
5 4mm bicone black diamond AB
15o #21f
11o #21f 4mm bicone crystal AB2X
8o #20123
6 Toho 6o #242

side, then bring the thread out of the next edge bead, Gray pearl
inside to outside.* Repeat between *s all around; the decorations will press
against each other to create a ruffled effect. Secure the thread and trim. This Mauve pearl
completes the center marquis, which will be attached to the bracelet band. Flower
Step 9 (continued) The diagram at Step 9 (continued) When the first fifteen rows are complete, continue
right shows a typical thread path for working outward from the center, again mirroring the rows on both
the decorations on each row. Bring sides. In the first post-15 row, all decorations should be one 11o
the thread up through the surface just #21F anchored with one 15o #223 (9A). 9A
outside the outermost bead on either
end to create the outermost decoration. Each decoration is anchored with one The next row should have three decorations, randomly placed, made
seed bead. Keep all threads within the printed area so they wont be cut in fin- of one 11o #21f and one 8o anchored with one 15o #223 (9B). All
ishing. Decorations are identical on both sides, mirrored from the center area. other decorations in the row should be as shown in 9A.

1 2 The third post-15 row should be entirely made of decoration 9A. 9B

The fourth should have another three randomly placed decoration 9B. Con-
tinue alternating rows in this manner until both sides are the desired length.

3 4
5 6
STEP 10 Attach the hooks and eyes. Using very
sharp scissors, trim away the excess nonwoven/pa- 10A
per from the very ends of the bracelet band (10A).
Take care not to cut any threads. The edges should
be clean and straight (10B).

Sew the two hooks on one side and the eyes on the
other, positioning the sewing loops so they sit right
on the cut edge. The hooks and eyes should line up
7 8 evenly (10D)

10B 10C 10D

9 10

11 12

STEP 11 Trim and attach the leather. Cut the ends of the leather so the strip is
the same length as the band. THEN TRIM AN ADDITIONAL 1/4 from either
13 14 end of the leather to allow for the interior curve when the bracelet is worn.

15
Smile! This is fun and your
bracelet will be gorgeous!
Step 11 continued. Apply a thin even layer of glue on
the back of the bracelet band. Make sure to cover all
the threads and extend the glue outside the threaded
area. Center the leather on the back of the bracelet
band, then wrap the two parts around a soft drink can
or other similar object; adjust as needed to keep the
ends of the leather even with the ends of the bracelet
band. Use a ponytail tie or elastic band to keep the
assembly together as the glue dries.
After the glue is dry, trim away the excess leather/non-
woven along the edge of the printed area, taking care
not to cut any threads. Round the corners very slightly.
STEP 12 Edge the band. Using the
same technique as you used for
edging the marquis surround, add
an edging all around the bracelet
band, using 11o #21F. Work right
across the open gap on both sides of the band. On the ends, skip the sec-
tions where the hooks and eyes are sewn. Use one or two invisible stitches to
secure the leather at the ends in areas where there are no edging beads.
STEP 13 Decorate the band edging. Use 11o #21F
and 15o #223. Bring a thread out of a edge bead
aligned with the beginning of the base rows. Following
the pattern shown below, add decorations to the edg-
ing, working from the center toward the hooks and eyes.
When the pattern area is complete, finish the decoration
on that side with one 15o #223 in each edge bead.
Repeat this pattern on both sides of the band, mirrored
on the top and bottom.
ALIGN WITH START
OF BASE ROWS
STEP 14 Secure the completed centerpiece to
the completed bracelet band. Use both glue
and stitches. Place a dab of strong glue such as
E6000 in the center of the open area. Position
the centerpiece over the glue, taking care to pull
all the band decorations upright so they wont
be buried beneath the centerpiece. Use invis-
ible stitches in the locations marked in red to
secure the centerpiece. DO NOT DEPEND ON
GLUE ALONE TO SECURE THE CENTERPIECE
BECAUSE IT WILL CERTAINLY FALL OFF IF YOU
DO. Secure and trim any remaining threads. Con-
gratulations! Youve completed your bracelet.
BASIC PEYOTE STITCH IN THE ROUND
Peyote stitch in the round starts with an initial ring of beads.
This may be stitched to a surface, or freestanding. Your
specific directions will tell you how many beads should be
threaded or sewn. This ring will later become the first TWO
rounds of stitching.
Pick up one bead, skip one bead on the initial ring,
then run the thread through the next bead on the ring.
As you tighten the thread youll notice that the beads
shift their positions and form a zipper tooth pattern.
At the end of each round, prior to starting the new round,
you must step up. When you have three beads left on
the initial ring and your thread emerges from the first of
those beads, youre ready to step up. After picking up the
bead to be added, go through TWO beads on the upward
diagonal. These beads are shown here dotted in orchid.
When you tighten the thread, your three-round ring will
have no visible start or end.
In subsequent rounds, youll recognize the step up by
the distinctive V-shaped gap at the end of the round.
Again, youll pick up one bead and go through TWO
on the upward diagonal (shown in orchid).
Continue in this manner, adding rounds as your direc-
tions specify, stepping up in preparation for each new
round.
CENTERPIECE PATTERN

BAND PATTERN