Introduction

Fabrics have certain desirable characteristics depending on end-use. Various defects in

the fabric either mar the appearance or adversely affect some of these desired
characteristics. Thus fabric produced must be inspected before releasing it for
dispatch so that proper quality goods reach the customers.

Inspection
Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as the visual
examination or review of raw materials (like fabric, sewing threads, buttons, trims,
etc.), partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments
in relation to some standards. The main objective of inspection is the detection of the
defects as early as possible in the manufacturing process so that time and money are
not wasted later on in either correcting the defect or writing off defective garments.

Purpose of fabric inspection

Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to
avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing.
Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, end-to-end or edge-
to-edge shading, color, hand or feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric
inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to
fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment
quality but also reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for
garments. As fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine acceptability from
a quality viewpoint. Some garment manufacturers rely on their fabric suppliers to
perform fabric inspection and fabric defects. In many small companies, the same
personnel do spreading and cutting and fabric is inspected as it is being spread on a
table for cutting.
Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and
cutting because:
Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also
inspecting the fabric.
A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.

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 The patterns are cut around the defects so as not to include them in the
finished garment.

Fabric inspection machines

Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machine. These machines are
designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection table under
adequate light and rerolled as they leave the table.
Defects can be seen readily with these machines, as the inspector has a very good
view of the fabric and the fabric need not be reversed to detect defects. These
machines are power driven or the inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection table.
The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form. These machines
are also equipped to accurately measure the length of each roll of fabric as well as
monitor the width of the fabric. The variation in width of fabric can result in a higher
cost of manufacturing for basic garments since profit margin for these garment
manufacturers is usually lower than that for fashion garment manufacturers and
therefore, maximum fabric utilization is vital.

How much to inspect?

When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full
100% inspection of the fabric. A minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to
spreading the fabric is recommended.

Fabric Inspection Systems

There are various fabric inspection systems:
10-Point System.
Graniteville "78" system.
Dallas system.
4- Point system.

Ten Point System

It was developed in the 1950's. This system assigns penalty points to each defect,
depending on the length of the defect.
Penalty points are assigned as per the following:

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Under the Ten-Point System, a piece is graded a "first" if the total penalty points do
not exceed the total yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the total
penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece.
The following points are noteworthy:
This system is bit complicated because points per length are different for warp
and weft defects.
It is difficult in practical use.

Graniteville "78" system

This system was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divides
defects into major and minor types .The major defect is one, which is very obvious
and leads the goods to second quality. The minor defect is one, which may or may not
have caused garment to second, depending on its location in the end use item.
Penalty Points are assigned as per the following:

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The following points are noteworthy in this system:
The principle was established in garment cutting piece, in which, the short
length defects (less than 9") would normally be removed.
The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9") and put
less weight on 1-10" defects such as slubs.
The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-
foot viewing distance.
The system tends to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.
This is mostly recommended for use, where larger garments are to be cut with
fabrics of wider widths.

Dallas System
This system was developed in 1970s specifically for knits. Dallas Manufacturers
Association approved it. According to this system, if any defect were found on a
finished garment, the garment would then be termed as a "second". For fabrics, this
system defines a second as "more than one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to
the nearest ten yards". For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to
have six defects.

4-Point System
The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-
grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel
fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society or
Quality Control).
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and
significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any
single defect. Defect can be in either length or width direction, the system remains the
same. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor
defects.
In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment
and make sure to select at least one roll of each color way.
Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:

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Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance
criteria are generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more
than 40 points are considered "seconds".
The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:

The following are noteworthy points for this system:

No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
The fabric is graded regardless of the end product.
This system makes no provision for the probability of minor defects.
4-point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as it is easy to
teach and learn.

General Inspection Procedures

Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough
ventilation and proper lighting.
Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be between 45 - 60 degree
angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light above
viewing area. Backlight can be used as and when needed.
Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per
minute.

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 All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be
available prior to inspection.
Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection
for assessing color, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between center and
selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and
documented.
Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved
weight.
Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
All defects must be flagged during inspection.
The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on
supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to
mill for additional replacement to avoid shortage.
If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement
must be done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

Major and Minor Defects

The following definitions are central to fabric inspection:

Major Defect - A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the
item to be a second. (A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects
the salability or serviceability of the item.

Minor Defects - A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second
either because of severity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it
is necessary to rate questionable defects as major, since the inspector will not know
where the defect may occur on the item.

Woven Fabric Defects

Defect Explanation Severity

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Burl Mark When a slub or extra piece Major
of yarn is woven into the
fabric, a burling tool
often removes it. This will
usually leave an open
place in the fabric.

Drawback Caused by excessive loom Major

tension gradually applied
by some abnormal
restriction. When the
restriction is removed the
excess slack is woven into
the fabric. Usually the
ends are broken

Dropped Picks Caused by the filling Major

insertion mechanism on a
shuttleless loom not
holding the filling yarn,
causing the filling yarn to
be woven without tension.
The filling yarn appears as
"kinky."

End-Out Caused by yarn breaking Major

and loom continuing to run
with missing end.

Jerk-In Caused by an extra piece Major or Minor

of filling yarn being jerked
part way into the fabric by
the shuttle. The defect will
appear at the selvage.

Knots Caused by tying spools of Usually Minor

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 yarn together

Mixed End (Yarn) Yarn of a different fiber Usually Major

blend used on the wrap
frame, resulting in a streak
in the fabric.

Mixed Filling Caused by bobbin of Major

lightweight yarn or
different fiber blend used
in filling. Will appear as a
distinct shade change.

Open Reed Results from a bent reed Major

wire causing wrap ends to
be held apart, exposing the
filling yarn. Will be
conspicuous on fabrics
that use different colored
yarns on wrap and shuttle.

Slub Usually caused by an extra Major or Minor

piece of yarn that is woven
into fabric. It can also be
caused by thick places in
the yarn. Often is caused
by fly waste being spun in
yarn in the spinning
process.

Smash Caused by a number of Major

ruptured wrap ends that
have been repaired.

Soiled Filling or End Dirty, oil looking spots on Major

the wrap or filling yarns,
or on package-dyed yarn.

Stop Mark When the loom is stopped, Can be Major or Minor

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 the yarn elongates under
tension; when loom starts
again' the slackness is
woven into the fabric.

Thin Place Often caused by the filling Major

yarn breaking and the
loom continuing to run
until the operator notices
the problem.

Knitting Defects

Defect Explanation Severity

Barre Occurs in circular knit. Usually Major

Caused by mixing yarn on
feed into machine. Fabric
will appear to have
horizontal streaks.

Birdseye Caused by unintentional Major or minor depending

tucking from upon severity
malfunctioning needle.
Usually two small
distorted stitches, side by
side.

Broken Color Pattern Usually caused by colored Major

yarn out place on frame

Drop Stitches Results from Major

malfunctioning needle or
jack. Will appear as holes
or missing stitches.

End out Occurs in wrap knit. Usually Major

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 Results from knitting
machine continuing to run
with missing end.

Hole Caused by broken needle. Major

Missing Yarn Occurs in circular knit. Major

Caused by one end of yarn
missing from feed and
machine continuing to run.

Mixed Yarn Occurs in wrap knit. Major

Results from wrong fiber
yarn (or wrong size yarn)
placed on wrap. Fabric
could appear as thick end
or different color if fibers
have different affinity for
dye.

Needle line Caused by bent needle Major or Minor

forming distorted stitches.
Usually verticals line.

Press-off Results when all or some Major

of the needles on circular
knitting fail to function
and fabric either falls off
the machine or design is
completely disrupted or
destroyed. Many knitting
needles are broken and
have to be replaced when
bad press- off occurs. Bad
press-offs usually start a
new roll of fabric.

Runner Caused by broken needle. Major

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 Will appear as vertical
line. (Most machines have
a stopping device to stop
machine when a needle
breaks.)

Slub Usually caused by a thick Major or Minor

or heavy place in yarn, or
by lint getting onto yarn
feeds.

Dyeing or Finishing Defects

Defect Explanation Severity

Condition where filling

A skewed or Bias Major or Minor Depending
yarns is not square with
wrap yarns on woven
fabrics or where courses
are not square with wale
lines on knits.

Backing fabric is often

Back Fabric Seam Major
used to cushion fabric
Impression
being printed. If there is a
joining seam in the
backing fabric, an
impression will result on
printed fabric.

Usually caused by
Bowing Major or Minor
finishing. Woven filling
yarns lie in an arc across
fabric width; in knits the
course lines lie an arc

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 across width of goods.
Establish standards of
acceptance. Critical on
stripes or patterns; not as
critical on solid color
fabrics.

The result of color running

Color Out Major
low in reservoir on
printing machine

The result of color being

Color Smear Major or Minor
smeared during printing.

Differs from crease streak

Crease Mark Major
in that streak will probably
appear for entire roll.
Crease mark appears
where fabric folds in the
finishing process cause
creases. On napped fabric,
final pressing may not be
able to restore fabric or
original condition. Often
discoloration is a problem.

Occurs in tubular knits.

Crease Streak Major or Minor
Results from creased
fabric passing through
squeeze rollers in dyeing
process. Depending on the
product; usually Major for
fashion outerwear, Minor
for underwear.

Results from a damaged

Dye Streak in Printing Major
doctor blade or blade not

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 cleaned properly. Usually
a long streak until the
operator notices the
problem.

Color applied unevenly

Mottled Major or Minor
during printing

Holes along selvage

Pin Holes Major
caused by pins holding
fabric while it processes
through tenter frame.
Major if pinholes extend
into body of fabric far
enough to be visible in the
finished product.

Results from uneven

Sanforize Pucker Major or Minor
wetting out on sanforize;
usually caused by
defective spray heads.
Fabric will appear wavy or
puckering when spread on
cutting table. Difficult to
detect during inspection on
inspection machine with
fabric under roller tension.

The result of fabric being

Scrimp Major
folded or creased when
passing through printing
machine. There will be
areas not printed.

Usually caused by
Selvage Torn Major
excessive tension while
processing through tenter

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 frames.

Usually caused by wet

Water Spots Major
fabric being allowed to
remain too long before
drying; color migrates
leaving blotchy spots.

References

https://www.scribd.com/doc/27320751/Fabric-Defects

http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4664

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