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CREATING YOUR OWN GREAT WINE; CRAFTING BALANCED WINES IN THE GLASS & THE VINEVARD TREATING FLAWS WITH COPPER LATE SPRING TIPS FOR YOUR & HOME WINERY PETITMANSENG < i? } n yi ineMaker ANYTIME Our digital edition of WineMaker can be read on a computer, Apple devices like iPads and iPhones, Android tablets and phones, and more! Each digital edition contains all the great content of our print edition plus the ability to search terms, add bookmarks, link directly id oth: ANYWHERE eee aeeel festree. Choose from two digital subscription options: Digital Only 6 digital issues for $25 {All countries - same rate.) Digital and Print 6 digital issues + 6 print issues for $31.99 (U.S. rate only. Canada rate is $34.99 Other countries are $51.99.) 5 For more information check out: winemakermag.com/di contents feature 26 _AYEARIN THE LIFE OF A WINE: PART IV Inthe fourth installment of our year-long series about how homemade wine is made using home-grown grapes in Upstate New York, it's time to check on fn ished fermentations and prune the grapevines. by Dominick Profact 32 CREATING BALANCE IN YOUR WINE There are many components in wine that all need to work together to create balance Find out haw to juggle acidity, alcoho, residual sugar, tannins, Color, favor components, and more by Bob Peak 2 APRIL-MAY 2017 WINEMAKER 38 BALANCE IN THE VINEYARD Balance in a vineyard is defined as a vine tat has {enough leaves to ripen a small to moderate crop load To achieve that goal, 2 good vineyard manager needs te pay close attention to whats happening among the vines this time of year. by Wes Hagen 44 MOVING WINE AND USING PUMPS Wine is frequently transferred or racked” into another vessel to leave the byproducts ofthe process (know as Lees) being. If you make larger batches of wine at home, using 3 pump can make this process easier by Jeff Shoemaker PreSeason Equipment Sale ORDER EARLY & a hes blr baba sai us ea su fos a 14 16 19 50 53 64 W 56 57 58 63 ‘reader writes in to talk about making “offoeat"red wines, and anather asks for more information about growing grapes CELLAR DWELLERS. Wine gets better with age... atleast itcan if itis propery stored, Learn the “dos" and" dont’ of wine storage. Plus an introduction te Tempranilo,the primary grape in Spain’ Roja wine TIPS FROM THE PROS Lite a Ute bit of sweetness in your white wines? We sought out three pros who make of-dry whites fr tps on how to doit well on «a home winemaking seale WINE WIZARD The Wine Wis breaks down the difference between sodium benton Ite and calcium bentonite forthe purpose of fining and looks at the best imes to use refractometers vs. hydrometers. Plus, how to S5moath out the rough edges of a Malbec. VARIETAL FOCUS Petit Manseng got aclaim in southwestern France but its also becoming more popular inthe New Wer, being made into offdry, aromatic white wines TECHNIQUES Sure, some wines are supposed to be carbonated, but most aren. To avoid unwanted bubbles in your table wines, you need to degas your wine. Learn how,and when, to doit so you never pour an ur expected bottle af izzy wine again, ADVANCED WINEMAKING Volatie sulfur compounds cntribute aratten egg smelt in win. ‘And the worst partis they originate from many sources and are ‘often difficult to predict Learn techniques to avoid, and fix, the fault before its too late. DRY FINISH Spring is here, and that means 3 new winemaking season is upan lus! A couple of experienced winemakers share the joys that come with making wine from South America and South Africa, as they recall their cecent experience making Pinotage wine rom South ‘ica ast spring, here to find it © Reader Service Wine Marketplace Supplier Directory Backyard Vine Diectory (Cru Select wines are a treasure for wine enthusiasts looking to. try new grane Varieties and wine stylas from arauind the world. Made from only the finest juice from the world’s best vineyards, our wines exemplify sophistication you can taste in every glass. to the alluring deep WineMaker Coleen ever Comoto What is your ia wine DIGITAL EDITOR Dawson Raspuzz TECHNICAL EOITOR ei ae e patio during springtime? Daniel Pambiancht ART ASSISTANT agai Smita ‘CONTRIBUTING WRITERS. Chik Brenneman Alon Crowe Wes Hagen, Danie Parianeh ob Peak, Gene Spzin ‘CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS haces A Parker, Les egenzan EDITORIAL REVIEW BOARD Steve Bader Bice eer an Wine Supply Doug Breet Peachy Canyon Winery Frank Brel Barrel Ceiars Chik Brenneman UCDavis Jn Buechsentein Sauvignon Republic Mark Chandler Candler & Company Wine Cenettaney Kevin Donat Cutured Solutions Pat Henderson Kenic Vineyards ene Spazian American Wine Society vi Stevens Osvon Internationa dane Wate Vermont Homebrew Supply EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE SUBSCRIPTIONS ONLY Winentaker 6 APRIL-MAY 2017. WINEMAKER, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ‘S ADVERTISING DRECTOR Kiev Rates ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR ‘RECIPE EDITOR Dive Green EVENTS MANAGER Jannel Kelson BOOKKEEPER Fait alert dale Dneer NEWSSTAND DIRECTOR Crt Kort wanentakor (55% 1087-562) spa ince nimonly tor 15, per yea y Esters! commonest S515 Hain Sree Manche Crter 5235 Te: (@onsen seen, axe 002) 3621317 Ema adress wmvineremagcon Paredes prog aera ances ees Pos Sten: Send ates cares ‘aid CA 2046 Catone servic for ‘R518 Zona, Ch 80086 Foe 70) S486, Faregn sna Gradon rer {tert mer cots ne aba sue ‘Acortrtct WineRtaher re Copiaht brahiies Pie in te Unsted States of Kes ee oe op ADVERTISING CONTACT: Kev Rane tin@vnemslarmapcor) Eoironiau contact bey Pat ynsnematernsgcom What's happening at WINEMAKERMAG.COM Fining: Techniques Simply put, fining is the addition of one substance to remove another. Inthis issue ‘on page 16 the Wine Wizard gets into bentonite fin- Jing, but there are many fining agents that winemakers may use. Learn about the options available to home winemakers and the best time to use Upgrade Your Winery The WineMaker guide to.excellent equipment land great gadgets that can help you make ‘more wine, make better wine or simply save some time, Whether youre driven by quality or efficiency ~ or the sheer high-tech {oy of using the latest winemaking toy ~ this article wil helo you decide what to buy. htpy/winemakermag, com/story7i2 The Sweet Rewards of Dessert Wines Classic dessert wines are won- erful, complex, ‘and delicious beverages. With so many high-quality wine kits available on the market, you can make terrific des- sert wine at home and, with alittle tweaking, give the finished product a Unique touch. http//winemakermag, com/story682 iotal Focus Pinotage is the most recognized ~ though ‘not the most widely ‘grown ~ South Afti= can red wine grape. ‘As spring winemaking season approaches, lear about making your wn Pino- tage at home justin time for your ‘nearby wine supplier to receive ship Pinotage: Vs Crete tC $54.95 The perfect gift for your favorite home brewer! MADE IN USA om or ask your home brew suppl . + Simple to use, great results, 2CHs-CHy-OH + 260) White there are many intermediate steps and side paths in the biochem- istry of alcoholic fermentation, this shows the basic reaction. One six- carbon sugar molecule, like fructose oF glucose, ends as two ethanol molecules and two carbon dioxide ‘molecules. Since the sugar has a ‘molecular weight of 180 g/mol and carbon dioxide is 44, the yield of 2x 44.= 88 g/mol is equivalent to 49% of the original sugar becoming carbon dioxide. That is a very large amount of gas. Imagine a 20 °Brix must (20% sugar by weight) fermented to dryness. From one kilogram (2.2 (bs) of that ‘must, which would occupy less than 1 liter (1.1 qt) in volume, there would be 1 x 0.2 x 0.49 = 0.098 kg (98 g or 0.22 tb) of gas. Using the ideal gas ap- proximation, molar volume is 22.4 L (0.79 cu ft) at standard temperature and pressure. Our 98 g of gas is (98/44) 23 moles, so that times 22-4 shows ‘a production of 50 L (1.77 eu ft) of gas from every kilogram of must A second source of carbon dioxide in wine is malotactic fermentation Bacteria convert malic acid into la acid, releasing CO} along the way. AC- cording to Emile Peynaud in Knowing and Making Wine, each gram (0.035 02) of malic acid will produce 0.67 g (0.024 07) of lactic acid and 0.33 9 (0.012 oz) of carbon dioxide. Imagine wine with 25 g/L (0.25 4/100 ml, of malic acid. Ina complete matolactic fermentation all 25 g would convert, yletaing (25 x 0.35) = 0.82 9 of C02, occupying 0.42 L at standard tempera- ture and pressure, Nowhere near as much as primary fermentation, but stil about 40% of the volume of the wine it started in. One fina, smaller source of carbon dioxide is from compressed gas deliberately added to provide a “blan- ket" on the wine or purging containers to retard oxidation. The vast majority of fermentation carbon dioxide escapes into the atmo- sphere. As soon as the fermentations are complete, what remains is a water and ethanol solution (wine) saturated in carbon dioxide. The amount of car boon dioxide in that saturated solution is controlled by temperature, pH, al cohol content, and pressure inside the tank, carboy, or barrel. Zoeckiein etal provide the following example in Wine Analysis and Production: “In wine of 11% alcohol (at atmospheric pres- sure), increasing the temperature from °C to 20 °C (52 °F to 68 °F) brings about a solubility decrease from 2.9 to 1.4 g/L 2,900 to 1,400 mg/).” Even at levels approaching 3,000 mg/L, this is a tiny fraction ofthe gas produced in primary fermentation, We can compare saturation levels to sensory levels to get the ‘why’ of degassing, Peynaud cites the optimal range for residual carbon dioxide in wine as from 300 to 600 mg/L. He goes on to explain that higher levels may seem ‘00 “piquant” and lower levels seem insipid. High levels of carbon dioxide enhance the sharpness of acidity and tan- nins, making red wines too harsh. On the other hand, higher levels in fresh, young white or rosé wines may provide a pleasant “lit.” Zoecklein notes, “Carbon dioxide is percepti ble in water at 200 mg/L, and in wine at about 500 mg/L. At levels greater than 700 mg/L, COp may be tactically perceiv- able and greater than 1,000 mg/L, CO> bubble formation is frequently noted.” We are looking, then for final carbon i: oxide levels in our wines above 300 mg/l. but below about 700 mg/L to avoid a “spritzy" impression or exaggeration of acids and tannins. While home winemakers primarily rely on sensory evalu- ation to choose degassing, commercial wineries face specific quantitative limits. Sparkling wines face higher tax rates than do still wines and the legal difference is quantitative carbon dioxide concentration. In the US, “stil” wine must go to market with no more than 3.92 gf. (3,920 mg/L) while the OIV in the European Union sets a limit of 1.0 gf. (1,000 mg/L). To measure CO>, wine laboratories have a choice of methods. Enzymatic analysis is direct and efficient, but requires a spectrophatometer and specific reagents that {fe out of reach of most home winemakers. The Titrimetric Great Selection AT THE CLICK OF A MOUSE! Helping Winemakers Since 1966 NOW ON THE WEB! LACE ORDERS OW OUR WER SITE LEARN WHILE YOU SHOP HY VISIT OUR WINE MAKING LIBRARY Rilorarien ropes and more Or Cal Yo Rerwneet ‘A FREE CATALOG! SER AIMEE EMAL MEWOLETEN OO BAT-7404 Fier preteal and ues nfomaton E.C.Kraus Home Wine & Beer Making Supplies Box 7850-WK ~ 735 S. Northern Blvd. Independence MO 65054 Determination described in Zoecklein could probably be set up and run by a technically-minded home winemaker, but itis elaborate and complex. By far the simplest method is. the Carbodoseur. A measured volume of wine at a specified temperature is placed in a special cylinder and sealed. After vigorous shaking, the released carbon dioxide is allowed to ‘expel some of the wine (I have used this device, and yes, it ‘was messy). The volume remaining is compared to a chart to estimate the CO, concentration. A Carbodoseur is available from Scott Laboratories or Enartis Vinquiry for about $250. To answer the "how" question of degassing, one ap- proach is to execute conventional winemaking procedures ‘over an extended time. Wine in oak barrels will lose carbon dioxide faster than in tank or carboy. Racking or filtering of wine will drive out some CO>, potentially leaving an accept- ably low level without further intervention. If you do not, have the time for that or it does not yield satisfactory re sults, three methods of direct degassing are stirring, vacuum. application, and purging with inert gas. Stirring is a simple technique, but it must be done vig- orously to have the best effect. In Techniques in Home Wine- ‘making, Daniel Pambianchi recommends stirring vigorously ‘two or three times a day until there is no perceptible gas. kit wine producers often specify vigorous stirring proce- dures. Using a long-handled spoon will require stirring for at least two minutes. Using a wine stirrer in a portable il, ‘can shorten that time. These stirrers are plastic or stainless PREMIER CUVEE - PREMIER BLANC. PREMIER COT “PREMIER CLASSIQUE - PREMIER ROU rcerias Soe WINEMAKERMAG.COM APRIL-MAY 2017 SL DES BLANCS, @ tecuniaves steel rods with hooks or wings at the end. The rod chucks into a battery-powered drill, the working end is inserted into a carboy or demijohn, and you run the dril. Do this for only a couple of seconds the first time; too much stirring too soon may cause the wine to foam out. Stirrers range from The Whip or Clean Bottle Express plastic degassers at about $12-$15 to the stainless steel Mix-Stir at about $40. The next technique is to apply vacuum. As noted, satu: ration depends on pressure. f you tower the pressure above the wine, gas will come out. Pambianchi notes that using this technique with a carboy requires Leaving sufficient headspace to allow for vigorous shaking of the carboy as you work. Attach an electric vacuum pump and tubing to 8 cap oF plug on the carboy, turn on the pump, and shake ‘the carboy. Continue for several minutes until no further bubbles are detected, Electric vacuum pumps may be found online from $50 to $250. Some vacuum bottle fillers can be used for vacuum degassing as well. The Gas Getter or All in, (One Wine Pump are two products available to home wine- makers for vacuum degassing. Finally, you may purge with a gas like nitrogen or argon. (See my “Techniques” column from October-November 2013, for more discussion of inert gases in home winemaking.) 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