pattern

by karen lepage
maids day off
coat
Project photo on page 37; instructions
on page 79

This lovely coat is a colorful, modern

update of the coat Anna wore to visit
Bates in prison during Season 3. The
delicate features and feminine details
will fit in equally at the most elegant
restaurant or the local pub. This
fully lined coat is fitted and features
princess seams for a flattering shape,
and is long enough to keep you cozy
even if the maid forgets to stoke the
fires at night. Put it on and perhaps
youll find Annas courage that she
summoned when she worked to avenge
her husbands good name and free him
from prison.

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page 1 of 71
 Anna Coat
54 main

cutting layout 2-4

6-12
3 3/4 yd
3 7/8 yd
14-16 4 yds
18 4 1/8 yd
54"
main
2-18

Anna Coat
54 main slevedges

2-4 3 3/4 yds Center Front (A)

cut here for lining

6-12 3 7/8 yds Sleeve (H)
14-16 4 yds Center Front (A)
18 4 1/8 yds

Pocket (I) slevedges Front Facing (E)

Sleeve (H)
Side Back (C)

cut here for lining

Front Facing (E)
Under Collar (F)
LL
AR
(F
)

Pocket (I) Side Front (B) Side Front (B)

Center Back (D)

Back Facing (J) fold slevedges

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 Anna Coat
44 lining

16-18 4 yds
cutting layout

44" / 58"
lining
2-18
slevedges

Anna Coat
44 lining Front Lining Side Front (B)

16-18 4 yds

Side Front (B)

slevedges

cut here for lining

Sleeve (H)

Side Back (C)

Sleeve (H) 04/06/

cut here for lining

Front Lining
Center Back (D)
Anna C
fold 44 lin
slevedges
2-8
slevedges
04
Side Back (C) Front Lining Sleeve (H)
An
44
Side Front (B)
10
Anna Coat
Center Back (D) 44 lining
fold
2-8 3 1/4 yds
slevedges

Anna Coat Side Front (B) Sleeve (H)

44 lining

10-14 3 5/8 yds

Front Lining
slevedges

Side Front (B)

Side Back (C)
Sleeve (H)

Front Lining

Center Back (D)

fold fold

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 16 25
18 22

cutting layout
slevedges

Anna Coat
Side Back (C) 58 lining
Sleeve (H)
2-4 2 yds

04/06/

Anna
Side Front (B)
58 lin
Center back (D)

6-8
12
fold

selvedges

Side Back (C) 04/06/14

Sleeve (H)
Anna Coat
58 lining
Side Front (B)
2-4 2 yds
Anna Coat
58 lining

14 2 1/2 yds
Center Back (D)
16 2 5/8 yds
18 2 2/3 yds
fold
selvedges

Side Back (C)

Sleeve (H)

Side Front (B)

Anna Coat
58 lining

6-8 2 1/4 yds

Center Back (D) 12 2 1/2 yds

fold

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 cutting layout
20" / 58"
interfacing
XS, S, M, L, XL2-18 04/

An
20
Anna Coat
20 interfacing
2-1
2-14 2 yds 16-
16-18 2 1/8 yds

slevedges

Front Facing (E) Under Collar (F)

04/06
Back Facing (J)
fold Anna
58 i

All si

slevedges

Front Facing (E)

)F
(R

Anna Coat
Under Collar (F)
58 interfacing

All sizes 1 5/8 yds

Back Facing (J)

fold

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 RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
cut 2 XXxx

XL

L
pattern

M
XS
S
M

S
L

XS
XL

Getting Started Basic techniques and terms

youll need to know for the pattern you have
XL

downloaded.
L

Assembling Full-Size Pattern Printout Pattern Symbols + Markings

XL
1 |
S

L
When prepar-
cut on fold

M
ing to print the pdf, Button + buttonhole
XS

S
make sure that you are placement marks Solid lines indi-

XS
printing it at 100% and cate buttonholes. A large open circle is
that there is no scaling. the button symbol and shows placement.
Check the settings for
page scaling (should be Test Square XS
S Cutting lines Multisize
None) and check the
2" 2" M
patterns have different cutting
preview to make sure L
XL cut on fold lines for each size.
that you will be printing
at full size. Make sure
that the box labeled Place on fold bracket This is
Auto-Rotate and a grainline marking with arrows pointing
XS
Center is unchecked to the edge of the pattern. Place on the
S
M (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS
fold of the fabric so that SKIRT
your finished
L RIGHT FRONT
XL another pdf reader, check for similar settings). piece will be twice the size of the pattern
|
2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, piece,cut 2 XXxx
without adding a seam.

XL
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square

L
should be 2" 2". Grainline The double-ended arrow

M
|
3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted should be parallel to the lengthwise
margin around each page.
grain or fold unless specifically marked
|
4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
ASYMMETRICAL
1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up FOLDS
the rows andSKIRT
XL

is numbered match the

diagonal.
dotted lines together so they overlap.
RIGHT FRONT Tape the pages together.
L

Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
cut 2 XXxx XS
Notches Notches are triangle-
S

is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol- S
M
XS

low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. L shaped symbols used for accurately
XL
matching seams. Pieces to be joined will
Layout, Marking + Cutting Guidelines have corresponding notches.
1 |
Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace cut on fold
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto Darts Dashed lines and dots mark
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
darts. The dashed lines show where the
|
2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting stitching will be, and the dot shows the
cut two
on of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
fold XL
position of the dart point (signaling the
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this

L
point, at the end of the dart, where your

M
S

technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the

stitching should end).

S
XS

project instructions if you are unsure.

|
3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together pattern dots Filled circles indicate
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
that a mark needs to be made (often on
cut on the fold are placed on the fold.
the right side of the fabric) for placement
|
4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric of elements such as a pocket or a dart
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
point. Mark by punching through the pat-
a crosswise or bias grainline is present.
tern paper only, then mark on the fabric
cut on fold
|
5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
through the hole.
unless otherwise noted.
|
6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
Slash Marks A dashed line (some-
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
cut out of your fabric and interfacing. times appearing with pattern dots)
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
|
7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
instructions for making the slash will be
pins to secure the corners as needed.
included in the pattern instructions.
|
8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

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 page 7 of 71
sewdaily.com
2h
1h

1a 1b 1c 1d 1e
here
attach lining
cut here for main
cut here for lining cut here for main
cut here for lining
4g
2g

5g
3g
1g

back lining - add 1/2

seam allowance
before cutting
2a 2b 2c 2d 2e 2f
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
FRONT LINING (K)
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT CENTER BACK (C) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
CENTER FRONT (A) cut 1 main on fold MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 1 lining on fold SIDE BACK (C)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

ease
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

MAI UNND
cut 2, 4, 6,
cut
2 int

D'S ER CO cut 1 t 1 revers

2 ma ing
erfac 10, 12

DAY LLA
in (cu (cut
4f
2f

5f
3f
1f

8,

OFF R (F) erse)

t 1,

COAT
, 14
1, cu
, 16

rev
, 18

e)
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
3a 3b 3c 3d 3e 3f
coat

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
maids day off

cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
4e
2e

5e
3e
1e

SLEEVE (H)
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT

pocket
POCKET
4a 4b 4c 4d 4e

4d
2d

5d
3d
1d

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
center front

forwarding or distributing this document

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

Please respect the copyright by not

SIDE FRONT (B)
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT

ease
5a 5b 5c 5d 5e
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) BACK FACING (J)
FRONT FACING (E) cut 1 main on fold
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT cut 1 interfacing on fold 2
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 4

place on fold
4c
2c

5c
3c
6
1c

8
10
12
14
16
18
8642
18 16 14 12 10

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
POCKET (I)
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
cut here for lining
2
4
cut here for main

center back fold

6 1 rolled hem
8
10
12
14
16
18

4b
2b

5b
3b
1b

MAID'S DAY OFF COAT

cut 1 contrast on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
COLLAR TRIM (G)

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
cut here for lining
cut here for lining
cut here for main
cut here for main

4a
2a

5a
3a
1a
1a
1b

18 16 14 12 10
8 6 4 2
 1c
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
FRONT FACING (E)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

center front
1d
1e
1f
 1g

attach lining
here
1h
 cut here for lining
cut here for main
2a
 2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
2b
2c
2d
2e
 MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
CENTER FRONT (A)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
2f
2g

atta
2h
 cut here for lining
cut here for main
3a
3b
3c
3d
3e
 back lining - add 1/2
seam allowance
before cutting
MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
CENTER BACK (C)
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 lining on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
3f
3g
4a

MAID'S DAY OFF COAT

COLLAR TRIM (G)
cut 1 contrast on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
 4b

center back fold

AT
d
8
 MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
BACK FACING (J)
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 interfacing on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
place on fold
4c
4d
 MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
SLEEVE (H) 4e
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4f
 4g
cut here for lining

cut here for main

5a
 5b

MAID'S DAY OFF COAT

POCKET (I)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
5c
5d
5e
5f
5g
1a
1b
cut here for lining
cut here for main
1c
1d
1e
2a

MAID'S DAY OFF

FRONT LINING (
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,1

12 14 16 18
 2b

OFF COAT
ING (K)
, cut 1 reverse)
2,14,16,18
ease
2c
2d

MAID'S
SID
cut 2 main
cut 2 lining
2,4,6,
 2e

AID'S DAY OFF COAT

SIDE BACK (C)
main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2
 T
COA
OFF R (F) rse
)
DAY LLA rev
e
ers
e)
ID'S ER C
O 1
cut rev
MA UNND cut 1, 1, cut 1 8
(
ain (cut 16,
1
2m ing 14,
cut ac 12,
terf 10,
2f 2 in , 8,
cut 2, 4, 6
3a

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 1
3b
 3c

POCKET
3d
 pocket
3e
3f
4a
4b
 MAID'S DAY OFF COAT
SIDE FRONT (B)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
4c
4d
4e
5a
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18

1 rolled hem
 5b

0
2
4
6
8
5c
ease
5d

cut here for lining

cut here for main

 5e

ining

main