Mallorca DWS Book

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Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE Page
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by Daimon Beail Cover Cover
Version 2.0 - July 2008
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Mallorca
Deep Water Soloing
11 extra crags not covered in Deep Water
Porto Cristo Novo

Porto Colom
Cala Sa Nau
Cala Mitjana
Cala Serena
Santanyi
Es Pontas
Cala Llombards
Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE Port de Soller
by Daimon Beail Sa Calobra
Version 2.0 - July 2008 Palma
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. By Daimon Beail
Published by ROCKFAX Ltd ROCKFAX Ltd 2008
Palma Porto Pi MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE

PEA 1 min
by Daimon Beail
Edited by Alex Armitage and Alan James
Version 2.0 - July 2008
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.

Published by ROCKFAX Ltd ROCKFAX Ltd 2008
7
All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical
or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.
6
4 5 Foot Note
3 The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right of access or
the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this MiniGUIDE are recorded for
historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. Climbers
who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are
proficient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment.
The authors and publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused
to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guide-
2 book as an assurance for their own safety.
1
Acknowledgment
The challenges in writing this book were enormous and time consuming. I began this journey alone and
with no prior knowledge of DWS in Mallorca. All I had was Mike Robertson's article on Diablo and an
Porto Pi
Approach - This area is also used for swimming and cliff
5 Cuquets ............... c 6b S0
obsessive hunger to know more. Along the way things changed regarding my solo mission and in doing
this guide I have met some fantastic people who have offered information and encouragement. I have
12m. Quite possibly the first recorded deep water solo on the
jumping by many people so it is quite easy to access all the island, which would make it the first deep water solo route in also been lucky enough to have had the support of my family and friends. Thanks for keeping me going.
lines from either the left or right side of the crag via an easy the world! Start as for Jaume, which avoids the hard lip climb- A big thank you to:
down-climb. ing below, to move into the upper part of Meca. Alan James; Mike Robertson (for the 2002 Diablo article which started my journey and your help and
Exiting - Either on the left or right of the crag, but as always, FA. Miquel Riera 1978
if the sea becomes rough a rope is recommended.
support throughout making this guide); Miquel Riera (the Godfather of Mallorcan rock climbing; this
6 Jaume. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
edition would not have been possible without your help. Josh Lowell (thank you for the photo and
1 Pepelink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1 11m. On the right of the cove. Beware of brittle rock.
contacts); James Cole (or is it Captain Cole, thanks for all those trips); Peter Brown (for helping us
set sail); Andrew Chapman (for your big lenses, 'focus'); Peter Church (photo technical assistance);
10m. The left arch on some good holds until you reach the top.
Watch the ledge at the start. 7 Sa Primera ............. c 6a S0
Bernard Exley (the bionic man); Alistair MacDonald (what's with the spud gun); Dieter Werther (thanks
for joining us!!); Adam Lincoln (the president); Martin Putz (Zioggg); Heidi Spets (for all your love and
11m. A slight alternative to Jaume, which takes a more direct
2 Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 line out of the cove. support); Ged Desforges (thank you for the photos and info on Porto Cristo Novo and Cala Sa Nau);
11m. Either swim, use a dinghy, or attempt to climb around to Iban Garayar (see you out there soon!); Neil Gresham (with help on Novo); Ben Heason (thanks for
the start of this one. Climb the pillar, move right onto the face your help and pictures); Matt Heason (its a small, small world); Mike Lloyd (thanks for the info); Stuart
and then attack the roof at the top.
Metcalf (technical genius); Thomas Starke (for showing me truth justice and TS way); Ethan Pringle,
3 Mucho Mi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8b+ S0
(for introducing me to the big up crew, good luck on Es Pontas); Chris Sharma (a true local and thanks
for your help); Anna Starke (at Max Mag); Adrian G. Riber (at Mindtomotion.se); Juergen Waskowiak
12m. Porto Pi's big number cruncher. Starting on the right side
of the cove, traverse the lip and launch out onto the face to (for the west coast info); Ouita Broadfoot (for the illustrator work done on Cova de Ses Puntes); Ramon
cross the line of Pilar and into a small corner. Power over the Way Down Marin (information sorcery) and Alex Armitage (for the super final text edit!).
roof to finish.
3
4 Meca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S0
Big respect to all those on board at dwsworld.com and to everyone who has e-mailed me with
inquires, ideas, tips, info and abuse.
12m. Make an early exit from Mucho Mi and finish on Pilar.
I'd also like to take this opportunity to pay my respects to Damian Cook who was killed whilst soloing in
challenging conditions in Mallorca. Damian was a true pioneer in the evolution of deep water soloing.
He has contributed an array of ideas, first ascents and very much helped pave the way for deep water
soloing. May he rest in peace.
47 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx REF yyyyyyyy
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Palma
Porto Pi is a small venue near the shipyards in Palma and is a convenient location for
some activity on the last day whilst waiting for your flight back. There are only a few
Mallorca
routes but this is enough to keep you entertained, with grades stretching from 6a to 8b+.
Porto Pi plays a historical role in the development of Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca.
It was here, back in 1978, that Miquel Riera first began exploring the possibility of
bouldering above the water. The crag is not too high, 12m or so, and is popular with city
workers wanting some after-work soloing action.
Deep Water Soloing Approach

It is difficult to navigate through the city of Palma and the maps provided here are only a
rough guide. Travelling west on the PM-1 (Avenida de Gabriel Roca) you will eventually
come to an area called Porto Pi. Look out for a big shipyard on your left with two large
boathouses, and on the right, a shopping mall with a 'Porto Pi' sign on it. In front is a large
junction. Turn right and follow the road around to your left (this is a large roundabout with
the PM-1 running right through it) and take the third exit on your right. Follow this road
(named Carretera al Dic de I'Oest) for around 400m until you see a metal tank on the left
and a parking area on the right. Park here and it's a 30-second walk to the crag below.
Conditions
The rock is unfortunately quite brittle and loose near the top, so take care in places. Also,
watch out for the occasional accumulation of rubbish in the sea, which normally happens
around mid-to-late afternoon.
Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Porto Cristo (Tower of Falcons) . 6 Son
Vida Vileta
PM-27
Porto Cristo Novo. . . . . . . . . . . 8 Son

Muntaner
PM-30
Porto Colom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Golf

PM-20
PALMA PM-20
Son
Cala Sa Nau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Castell
PM-1 C-715
Ferriol
Cala Mitjana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Genova

de
Bellver
Es
PM-19
Cala Serena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 PM-1 M

ol
in
Santanyi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Porto Pi ar rt
gu t
i
st
o
A an
rp
Ai
S
Cala Llombards . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Port de Soller . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Porto Pi
Map not to scale
Sa Calobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 C-719
PM-1
PM-1
Ship Yard
This page: Adam Lincoln on The Camp
Jogger 6c+ Dominion Wall (Porto Colom)
Cover: Heidi Spets heading towards the crux
of Superwoman 7a+. Porto Pi
Map not to scale Cuquets 6b. Photo by Heidi Spets
Back Cover: Axel Big catching some big air.
Photos: Daimon Beail
Registered to Leonardo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 46
Sa Calobra Torrent de Pareis - The Arena MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Introduction
Mallorca sits off the eastern coast of Spain
Daimon Beail Pulling His Way
PTA
and is home to some of the World's best
Out of the Water 7b
8 min deep water soloing. These famous cliffs are
covered with big golden pockets and some
J of the toughest solos in the World, including
Chris Sharma's route up the underside of
the Es Pontas arch. But there is also plenty
of more-moderate soloing available across
J a wealth of fine crags all in a fantastic
holiday atmosphere.
This edition of the

7
Mallorcan deep water
soloing MiniGUIDE (previ-
6 ously known as Mallorcan
Psicobloc) contains crags
that didn't get covered
in the Rockfax publica-
tion Deep Water. For the
full picture on deep water
soloing on Mallorca you will need to a copy
of Deep Water. This award-winning book
(Banff 2007 - Best Guidebook) contains the
crags of Porto Cristo, Cala Barques and
Cala Maral, as well as many other superb
Gear
venues from all around the World. It is avail-
What to take? In September and October:
able from the Rockfax web site -
not a lot. The water is so warm that a wet
The Arena www.rockfax.com
Approach - The Arena is the first area you reach just before suit is not needed. If you are prepared
entering the tunnels. The crag is overlooked by a viewing to wear a shorty then this may help with
area, which means your climbing will attract a lot of atten- If you find anything that you think is missing
buoyancy in the water. Two pairs of boots
tion. You can set up camp on a rocky platform just over the or incorrect in this MiniGuide, or wish to
left side of the railing, and descend to the climbs from here. and a chalk bag are all you really need,
inform us about new routes and crags,
Exit - In calm seas exiting is extremely easy as there is an along with plenty of chalk and those
underwater ledge at the bottom of the natural descent line email mail@dwsworld.com.
into the sea. In slightly rougher conditions a rope would be
sandwich bags to line the inside of your
useful. Also climb with care at the bottom, as it is normally chalk bag for when it gets wet.
quite slippery and wet. When to Go A dinghy is essential for some routes,
The most popular time for climbers to visit as they require a boat start. These can
tends to be late September, early October
6 The Fulcher . . . . . . . . 2pc 6b+ S0
be picked up from tourist hot spots very
when the sea is still warm and the average cheaply. One or two places could do with
18m. A fantastic line that finishes with a long jump back down.
Traverse the handrail along and down past the arete of Wax air temperature is in the low 20s. Late a rope ladder to get out of the water, so if
until you reach a crouching position under a crack-line. Follow October is often the wettest time of the
this all the way until you reach a recess and a finish to the
you have one, take it along. A 30m rope is
route. Jump off from here.
year but its still possible to go and dodge needed and a few slings for setting up water
FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05 the showers. November is also a possibility exits. Ropes are also useful for accessing
but it is likely to be cold and make for a
7 Wax . . . . . . . . . . 3ftc 7a+ S0 less pleasant holiday. April to June is also
the bottom of lines safely. A harness is
only needed if you intend to abseil in to the
12m. A stunning find. Still awaiting a direct finish past the large
pockets. Traverse the handrail until you reach the arete. Climb possible for the more dedicated among starts.
the right-hand side of it making some sequence moves to a jug. us but a wet suit might be needed. Local
Continue to wind your way up the face to the pockets out left.
Jump from here or try the direct finish into the recess.
climbers see July and August as a prime
Daimon Beail making the first
FA. J.Cole 17.06.05 ascent of The Fulcher 6b+ time to go soloing, but for many this will be
far too hot.
45 Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 Registered to Leonardo REF y yyyyyyy Registered to Leonardo REF y yyyyyyy Mallorca DWS Version 2.0 - July 2008 2
Introduction MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Sa Calobra Torrent de Pareis - The Mouth
Safety Flights
OIUA
Mallorca as a deep water soloing venue There are many flights to Palma, Mallorca BOAT
does have its downside. The sea can be from all sorts of destinations across Europe. 15 min
very rough and you are advised to keep www.flybmi.com, www.britishairways.com,

well clear in these conditions. It's amazing www.easyjet.com, www.thomsonfly.com,
how hard it can be to exit the water in even www.airtours.co.uk, www.airberlin.com
a mild swell. There is only a very small
tidal range but please be aware of possible
currents while out swimming under crags.
It goes without saying that you need to be
physically fit for deep water soloing and
being a strong swimmer is an essential part
of the sport. Always climb in teams of two or
more - never, ever solo alone!
It is also worth mentioning the jellyfish - the
large ones (Mild Rhizostoma pulmo) are
easy to spot and normally stay away from 1
the crags or drift away quickly on the tide.
The smaller gray jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca)
travel around in shoals, drifting on the Exit Point
currents. I personally have seen hundreds 2
at a crag and have been stung a few times
but found it not to be too bad. Watch the The Mouth 5
direction of their travel if they are out and Accommodation Approach - Sa Pose is reached by either swimming from the
There are lots of fantastic villas, apartments beach and pulling up onto the steps using a rope, or walking
about and head to another crag if possible.
You don't see jellyfish all the time and its and hotels on offer but no camping. Wild
around to the no entry sign on the tunnel path and crossing
a weak railing. Water Logged is a swim from the beach as
5 The Mallorcan . . . . . . 3sc 7a S0
12m. From the water with a ring or a swim, climb the only tufa
quite possible for you to spend a week or camping is allowed but restrictions are in are The Little Professor and Mad Professor. Tufa Land is at line that is accessible from the sea and follow this via a lovely
place making it quite difficult to do safely. the end of The Little Professor traverse and is a lovely wall jug to where the tufa fattens. Navigate around the right side of
two in Mallorca and not see any. covered in (obviously) Tufas. Accessing The Mallorcan needs
Out of season the villas are a very reason- this and head up onto the slab to the right-hand exit.
to be done from a boat. FA. Ged Desforges Sep.07
Getting around able price and highly recommended.
A hire car is the best choice for maximum See www.dwsworld.com and 1 Sa Pose. . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 6b+ S0 Ged Desforges's team of climbers have also accomplished high
points on the adjacent tufas to the left.
www.rockfax.com for more details. 9m. A powerful traverse. Follow the faint crack, which leaves
flexibility. Lots of accommodation compa- the massive flake, on positive holds to big side-pulls and power
nies deal directly with their own car compa- upwards to a ledge. Work your way down the ledge to the start and
nies making things easier when booking. Shops do it again for the spectators who didnt spot you the first time.
FA. Daimon Beail 30.09.03
If you choose to book separately there are There are supermarkets in most of the TU
FA
2 Water Logged. . . . . . . . . pc 6a S0
LA
ND
many to be found on the web. It is best to towns and a large hypermarket in Palma 5
book before you go. that will cater for all your needs. Opening 9m. Pull out of the water and follow the big flake up and right. At
times in Mallorca are normally between the top of the flake, climb up to the sloping ledge, and jump off!
FA. Julian Chapman 30.09.03 Torrent-De-Pareis
Access 10:00 to 13:30 hrs. and 16:00 to around
Most of Mallorca is private land but so far 20:00 hrs. Shops will normally be closed on 3 The Little Professor .... 1c 5+ S0
3
national holidays and Sundays. 60m+. Nothing little about it. Normally done from right to left.
access to the DWS venues has not been Pull yourself out of the water, or off your boat, and traverse at SW
any height, making it whatever grade you like - 5+ is average. IM
an issue. As always, take great care when et
c
approaching any of the cliffs, dont disturb New routes There are also some boulder problems along the way. It is pos-
4
sible to get to Tufa Land if you dont have a boat.
the vegetation, fences and walls, and leave New route and new area information can be FA. Daimon Beail S.Smith J.Chapman 30.09.03
emailed to mail@dwsworld.com 7 61
politely if asked to do so.
4 The Mad Professor . . . . . 2c 6c+ S0 TUNNEL
15m. From the start of Little Professor, head right on fantastic TU
NN
rock to a tricky handrail and a slap for a large bucket. Continue EL
as far as you can and bale out just before the shallow water. Map not to scale
Sa Calobra MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Climbing Information
Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy, which means your climbing activity Rockfax Symbols
KEY
can become the centre of attention every now and then. The climbing is found at the
mouth of the 'Torrent-De-Pareis' which in the winter months, after heavy rain, can be a
1 a good route Mountain peak
fast-flowing river. Normally though the river is dry and the mouth of the Gorge is just a dry 2 a very good route Minor road
LH Lighthouse
pebble beach that slopes sharply into the sea. 3 a brilliant route Highway Town or village
The climbing is currently limited but there may be many more possibilities out there. Main Road
A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If t technical climbing involving complex Dirt track
Built up area
or tricky moves PMV401-2 Road number

you decide to visit 'Tufa Land' take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts River or stream
youre going to have a long swim back. The climbs never exceed 12m. p powerful moves requiring big arms River in built up area Mountainous
area
s sustained climbing, either long and Way to destination
Approach pumpy or with lots of hard moves Path Buildings
Sa Calobra is on the north side of the island. Make your way to 'Soller' and take the
C710 towards 'Pollenca'. This road winds its way up into the mountains, passing through
f fingery climbing - sharp holds! Boulders Anchorage
many tunnels and via the odd military outpost. After this longer-than-expected drive you r a long reach is helpful / essential Vegetation
House or Hotel
P Project
eventually get to a major turn on the left which rollercoasters its way down to 'Cala Tuent' g rounded holds may be found Parking J Jump off point
and 'Sa Calobra'. This point can also be approached from the other direction, direct from o a dyno is required
'Pollenca' or from 'Inca'. Following signs to Sa Calobra leads to a pay-and-display car park
on your right near the bottom of the valley. From here, walk down to the sea front and turn
h heart fluttery climbing
Other guides
right. Follow the path along the front until you eventually come to a series of small well-lit l loose rock The most essential other
tunnels. Try to squeeze your way through them, to emerge at the other side. book you will need is the
Grades Rockfax book Deep Water
Conditions All grades are presented in a dual format. - this covers the three big
The biggest problem on this side of the island is rain. Because 'Sa Calobra' is on the edge The main sport grade gives the overall diffi- crags of Porto Cristo, Cala
of the mountain range it tends to get hit with downpours from time to time. This is obvi- culty of the route and the S-grade gives you Barques and Cala Maral.
ously less of a problem in June but in mid-October you will find an umbrella quite useful. an idea of how safe it is.
The cove faces north west and, because of the steepness of the surrounding cliffs and Colour Code Psicobloc Mallorca is
mountains, the sun normally hits the area from about midday to early afternoon. Miquel Riera's best of guide
1 4+ and under Good for beginners to 'Psicobloc' on the island.
Harder routes for those with It contains a variety of
Map not to scale
2 5 to 6a+ some experience coastal sport climbs and a
Torrent-De-Pareis For the experienced and small section on bouldering
3 6b to 7a dedicated climber on the south east coast.
Crag
The hard stuff, for expert The book is in both Spanish
POLLENCA
Sa
C alobr a 4 7a+ and up dws climbers only
Sa
Calobra
and English -
C710
PM220
www.edicionesdesnivel.com
1102m
S0 - Safe and relatively non-committing.
Port
de Usually with a low crux move and any falls Easy Block by Jurgen
Soller 1348m
C710
DE AN
A PM213 lead to a clean projection into the water. Waskowiak, Oliver Fischer
A T
RR UN
SE AM
Sa Pobla S1 - A caution rating. Longer and the route and Bernd Gorten is a small
C710
SOLLER TR Selva may also have a high crux.
1090m
C713
guide to the low-grade deep
S2 - Similar to S1 but may also have
EL
PM210
water soloing that can be
TUNN
C711
Alaro PM211
C713
INCA
protruding ledges above or below the water. found on the south west
PM344
PM27 PM324 The water may be shallow in places and coast of the island. This
bailing out will require a bit of precision to area is ideal for beginners
get into the water safely. and small groups as most
S3 - The connoisseurs DWS. Heady to on- of the venues are easy to
sight. Often shallow, high cruxes, exposed access and not very high.
and often genuinely dangerous. Take care! www.psicobloc.com
The Climbing Areas MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Port de Soller Cova de Ses Puntes
PTA
Sa Calobra
Port
MALLORCA 10 min
Cova de Ses Puntes Pollena d'Pollena
Alcdia Port d'Alcdia

Port de Soller Conditions - Cova de Ses
710
Puntes faces west, which
La Puebla gives it the afternoon and
Way Down Way Down
Soller 712
Cala evening sun. It does not
Inca Ratjada
Muro
Art dry out quickly.
Valldemossa
Alaro Santa Margalida
Bunyola
710 Santa Mara PM27
715
Petra
713 Porto Cristo
Vilafranca Manacor
PM111
715
Airport
Andratx Porto
Cristo
PM1 Porto Cristo Novo
Palma 717
Felantix
Santa Cala Barques
Ponca Campos del Porto
Puerto Colom
Porto Pi Porto Colom
Santanyi Cala Marcal
Cala Sa Nau
Orange crags are
covered in Deep Water Cala Mitjana 2 3 4
7
5 6
Cala Serena 1
Cala Santanyi
Cala Llombards &
Small Ledge
Es Pontas
New Areas Cova de Ses Puntes

Although there has been plenty of devel-
The west coast also has a lot of potential.
Approach - Follow the road along the sea front to a 'no
entry' sign. Turn sharp right up the hill and continue through
1 Supermanolo . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
opment, there are more areas still to be 14m. Starting from the left side of the cave mouth and climb
Three new areas have already been devel- hairpin bends past the Nautilus Bar (parking for the sport
discovered and many of the crags in this the lip of the cave until you reach easier ground above.
crag). Where the road curves right, turn left onto a small
oped by some local climbers on the south
guide still have room for further develop-
ment. west coast and offer some easier lines,
road leading off onto a dirt track. This winds for about 1km
through olive trees and shrubs to a small open area - park 2 Republica Sinestra . . . . . . . . c 7c S0
here. Walk along a gully/path towards the sea cliff and tower. 14m. Traverse right into the cave for 2m before launching up
which are perfect for first-timers. Go right around this and continue to the cliff edge where you the steep wall and out over the lip. Often wet.
The east coast still holds a lot of potential Further north, the more dedicated and
3 Cristo . . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 7a S0
will locate the cave. To access the lines simply down climb
and there are many smaller venues dotted braver soloers should seek out some of either the left or right side of the cave. Install an exit rope.
Metxicans to Tramontana all start from a small ledge which 14m. From the right side of the cave, traverse leftwards into the
around. Most of these larger areas are those highball deep water solos which are means no tricky traversing. centre and onto the slightly bulging wall. From the left side of
known - like the cliffs between Cala Marcal still awaiting a first ascent. The amazing this, which is difficult to attain, climb left toward the roof and
Formentor peninsula hasn't any recorded then cross it to gain the upper wall.
and Cala Sa Nau - but have not seen much
4 PSM . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 6c S0
Cova de Ses Puntes
development yet. ascents to date! Accessing the cliffs on
Formentor is hard and they are rather 12m. Climb the centre of the cave, which is a little crimpier
Tower
exposed to the elements. If you visit and than the rest.
Sport Crags
5 Metxicans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
develop something new and want to share
it with the rest of the world, then document Dirt Track
14m. Just right of centre is a small incut hole. Climb left over
it as well as you can with crag photos and this and slightly to the right of PSM.
some good descriptions. Path to Sport Crags
Cala Marcal to 6 Tanassa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

Cala Sa Nau Please e-mail mail@dwsworld.com if you've 14m. Just to the right of Metxicans is an easier but ever so
These cliffs contain slightly steeper wall. The large holds keep this line in check.
many caves and found new lines and check out
vertical walls which
offer some excellent
www.dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com to 7 Tramontana . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S1
see what's new. 14m. The right-hand side of the cave. Watch the ledge at the
potential for further OD
M
Map not to scale
start.
development.
LH
Port de Soller MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Cristo - Tower of Falcons
The main crag at Porto Cristo is covered in the Rockfax book Deep Water. Since that was
OIWA 15 min
BOAT
2
3
published in 2007, there have been a few new additions to the Tower of Falcons Area
(page 268 of Deep Water).
The Tower of Falcons is situated on the opposite edge of Porto Cristo town to Cova del
Diablo. The landmark to locate the area is the large cliff-top tower. The stunning cave
below the Tower may one day host some absolute DWS masterpieces.
Landing C715
Platform
1
C715 MANACOR Sa Coma
Cala Moreia
PM402
1 Aqua Phobia ....... 3fc 6c S0 7 Dim Dim . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 5 S0

Cala Morlanda
35m. An excellent right-to-left traverse. Climb under the shelf, 9m. There is a wall right of the face, climb the part that bulges
then up and left, using a big thread. slightly over the water and veers left at the top. Cova Del Diablo
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 C714
2 The Little Blue . . . . . . 1fc 6b+ S0 8 The Ease of Passage . . . . . . . c 3 S3

Porto Cristo
9m. Start as for Aqua Phobia but continue up the arete on jugs. 10m. The easy way up, or down. PMV401-4 Tower of Falcons
It gets 6b+ for the start, the rest is probably only 5+. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 Porto Cristo Novo
3 It Tastes Like The Sea . . . fc 7b S2 9 Deep Sea Climbing. . . . . . . . c 5+ S1

7m. Up the stuck-on flake is the nicest.
9m. The blank arete right of Little Blue. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
FA. S.Smith 28.09.03
Approach
0 It Could Go On . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
4 A Passage to the New . . . . . . c 6a+ S1 8m. Climb diagonally left, on big holds, starting at the base of Drive southwards out of Porto Cristo, up the hill from the small bridge, and make a left
14m. Follow the ramp to the roof and climb up and right. the Big Easy Flake. Carry on until you reach the massive hole. turn down a straight road to a circular car park at the end. Here you cannot miss the
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
amazing stone Tower of Falcons, with its rather disturbing, eroded, inner staircase. You'll
5 Pots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 q Big Easy Flake . . . . . . . . . . . c 4 S2 need your shoulders for an ascent!
16m. Follow the crackline under the ramp to the roof and finish 7m. Climb it.
as for A Passage to the New. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
FA. S.Smith 28.09.03 Conditions
w Little Princess . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0 There are no tidal issues but pay
6 Squid ............ 1fc 6b S0 80m+. The mighty traverse from the landing platform takes you close attention to the sea state. PM402 Porto Cristo
8m. Traverse right, low down from the left side of the face until to the far end of the crag. Finish up Big Easy Flake. The harder
you reach a flake. Climb this and finish as for A Passage...
Avoid hot sun on Morning Glory.
bits can normally be bypassed higher up.
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03 FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
OIWA 15 min
BOAT
Cova del Diablo

Area
See Deep Water Rockfax
10
PMV401-4
4
Tower of Falcons
7
8 11
5 6 9
Porto Cristo Tower of Falcons MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Port de Soller
Port de Sollers DWS crag is a quiet little gem. It is bigger than it looks from the beach
Tower of Falcons AOE 1 min
although theres nothing much higher than 10m, except on the far right-hand where the
cliff rises to around 15m. This crag is best visited if you happen to be in the area; dont
go out of your way especially if youre enjoying the delights of the East Coast. The entire
crag is undercut and in most places the sea is deep - safe for splashdowns. There may
be some new route possibilities on the right side of this crag. On the other side of the bay
there is a fantastic cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately, this is military-owned and
it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it.
9
J Rope Way Down Slightly further northeast up the coast is Cova De Ses Puntes. This offers some harder
J routes that top out a bit higher at around 14m but are not always in good condition. When
6 8 5 conditions are right though, you're in for a treat with some fantastic lines waiting to be
7
ticked. See page 42 for approach.
Water Exit Water Exit
Approach
From Palma take the C711 towards Soller through the toll tunnel. When you reach a
Tower of Falcons roundabout near Soller keep going and follow signs to 'Port de Soller'. Follow this road to
Shrek, is located about 200m south of the tower at the
PMV401-4 P or to C r is to the port. Parking is best found around the back streets. From the left-hand side of the bay,
bottom of an easy way down. You can use Shrek to traverse make your way along the waters edge until it gets rocky. Continue along a disused pipe
along to the starts of Feist Queen and Public Enema No.1.
The start to Morning Glory is slightly north east along the (covered in concrete) down as far as the rocky beach. There is a large dusty rock pillar,
cliff where it is possible to make your way down to a large which prevents you from continuing any further without getting wet. Launch your dinghy
ledge. La Hostia and Toni are best reached via a rope- from here and paddle across, or alternatively dry-bag it to the crag.
5
assisted descent to the right of Forat. Sa Valenta is a dry-bag
to a ledge in the cave. Aqua Phobia and The Little Blue start from the landing platform. Be careful getting onto
Exits - For Shrek, Feist Queen and Public Enema use a pre- Big Cave the start as there are one or two ledges sticking out and the odd greasy hold. Descend by
placed rope. Morning Glory is a swim back to the ledge. clambering over the top and back to the landing platform or jump off into the sea.
Routes near La Hostia requires a swim into the cave to exit. Tower of Falcons
Sa Valenta is just a swim back to the ledge under the route! 4
A Passage To The New to Big Easy Flake are reached by either traversing Little Princess
1 3
Always install a rope for exiting the water where you can. 2 from the platform or walking slightly above the crag through all those nasty bushes.
Map not to scale
Alternatively, you could just use a dinghy, as it is quite easy to get onto land.
1 Shrek ......... 2stc 6a S0
2sftc
140m. A long and relatively easy left-to-right traverse of the
wall. It ends just to the left of the bulging face. From here it's 5 Morning Glory 7a+ S1 Conditions
best to solo (not a DWS) up the spiky wall at about 3+. 160m. From the large platform, traverse left toward the large The main crag at Port de Soller faces east so it generally gets the morning and early-
FA. Gav Symonds Oct. 2002 cave. The hard bit comes near the end as you make a rising afternoon sun. It also dries very quickly.
traverse up to a small cave at one-third height. Jump from here.
2 Shrek Extension . . 1stc 6c+ S0 FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2001
15m. Traverse another 15m beyond Shrek to pump the grade

up to 6c+.
6 Sa Valenta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S3 Port de Soller Sa
FA. Ken Palmer Oct. 2001 12m. Climb the block to the inner cave. Watch the underwater Calobra
ledge and don't fall! It may be possible to jump off at the end Cova de C710 Cova de Ses Puntes
3 Feist Queen . . . . . 2shc 6c S3 (don't hold me to that) better still just reverse it. Ses Puntes
7 La Hostia. . . . . . . 3sfc 8a+ S2 OD

1
18m. Not the kind of line most soloers would be happy with
doing with only 2m of water to break your fall. But if you are up Port M
for it then continue traversing past the end of Shrek and climb 23m. This fantastic line climbs the steep wall at the back of the 1348m
LH
de LH
the bulging wall to the right of the spiky face. The crux is near cave (right-hand side) to a large horn-shaped tufa in the roof.
Port PM213
Soller
C710 A
the top! Continue to the lip and eventually the top. de DE N
FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2002 FA. Chris Sharma 2006 Soller RA NTA Landing Platform
R U
SE AM Port de Soller
4 Public Enema No.1 . . . 1tc 6b S2 8 Toni .................. c 7c S1 C710
SOLLER T R
1090m Selva
18m. Climb the line to the right of Feist Queen. Escape right up 18m. Climb the right-hand side of the cave mouth to the roof.
a groove to an easier finish than the previous line. Continue up and slightly rightwards to the top.
L
PM210
E
FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006

TUNN
FA. Grant FArquhar Oct. 2001

INCA
9 Forat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7c+ S1 Alaro PM211
C711 C713
17m. From the cave where Morning Glory finishes, tackle the PM27
bulging wall above to a ledge. The upper section needs care.
FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006
PM210
Map not to scale
Cala Llombards South MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Cristo Novo
The spectacular cave of Porto Cristo Novo C715
S on S ervera
OPEA
PM332
was first discovered by Ken Palmer and C715
15 min
Adam Wainwright in 2002 and is Mallorca's M A N A C OR
PM402
equivalent to the Grandegrotta in Kalymnos
with its giant stalactites hanging from the PMV401-2
P or to C r is to
3 roof of the cave. This obvious appeal soon PMV401-4
P or to C r is to N ovo
S on
1 2 attracted a team exploring the cave's possi- C714 M ac ia
C ala Crag
bilities. Unfortunately the only line to have R om antic a
been done though was Neil Gresham's S on Pr ohe ns
mega He Who Dares Rodders. Shortly after, F E LA NIT X C alas de M allor c a

Rope Way Down the cave was also visited by Klem Loscot PMV401-2 C ala M ur ada
and his team but ascents weren't recorded. C714
In September 2007 Ged Desforges, Cas Es PM401
C ar r itx o
Ladha and Nick Ward visited the area and C as PMV401-2
LH
P or to C olom Map not to scale

put up six new lines in and around the cave C onc os
and documented them.
The main reason that this crag has not seen Porto Cristo
much development is because you need a
Av
Porto Colom
d
eV
boat to get to the routes. Also, the top of the
asc
Water Exit
od
crag is overgrown so most top-outs normally PMV401-4
aG
am
see people taking a long plunge. Another
a
unfortunate issue is that tourist boats drive
into the cave in the summer months, which P or to C r is to N ovo
Llombards South makes climbing on the stalactites poten-

Approach - Head south along the cliff edge and past some tially dangerous. Outside school and public
large boulders which block your path. From here you can holidays - October onwards - this is less of
see Llombards South and the path that runs around the cliff
edge to the cave. A rope is needed to descend to the base of a problem.
the crag. Use a rope to gain the left side of the cave.
Exit - Install a rope on the exit point before you set off. Crags
Approach C ala R om antic a
Map not to scale
From Porto Cristo, follow signs to Porto
1 Sa tangent . . . . . . . . . . . tc 6b+ S1 Colom (PMV 401-4 / MA-4014) and follow
14m. The easiest of the three lines on this wall. Trickier near
the top. this road for about a mile to a small rounda-
bout. Take the second exit and follow this
2 Locat Matador . . . pthc 7c S1 road all the way to the coast where the road
15m. Follow the line of Sa tangent to the lip of the cave and
move out right to a block at the base of a flake. Climb this and bends around to the right. Keep following it
the shallow groove above with care. around until you are heading back inland on
the road 'Paseo de la Infanta Carlota'. Park
3 Esplendor Geometrico 2pc 8a+ S1 and locate signs to the beach, which lies
22m. Esplendor Geometrico is the big daddy of this wall. From
where Locat Matador launches up the block, continue to the below on your left. P or to C r is to N ovo
arete and navigate your way on the steep underside of the face. From the beach, head out along the left-
Pull round slightly left near the top to make those final moves
to victory.
hand side of the bay along the small cliff
until you reach a small area where it is
Once again this is a venue that holds potential for future possible to enter the water. Use your boat Over-Grown Area
development. The long wall to the right (photo right) although
friable and dusty in places, could well hold a long and sustained
to paddle around to the left until you reach
traverse to put many forearms to the test. the cave.
Also the wall beyond Llombards South looks to hold some
potential lines. Always check the depth and all safety aspects Cave Right Wall
when exploring these new possibilities. Map not to scale
Porto Cristo Novo The Main Cave MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Llombards North
PEA 8 min
BOAT
IPEA 10 min
BOAT
4
5
Way Down
1
2
3
Llombards North 4 Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy. . . fc 8a+ S0

Approach - Head to the small pinnacle which sticks out to 11m. A harder and more direct finish to Balam.
sea, to the left of the steps. The cave is visible from here.
2 3 Down climb the right side of the crag to reach Balams and
Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy - no rope required. A boat is advised
5 Balam ........ 3pfc 7c S0
11m. From the ledge at half height, launch onto the roof and
to reach the left-hand side although down climbing is still
1 possible. Sa Rossaguera and Aresta. Follam Balam is much
power your way up and right on good holds to the upper wall.
Water Exit More technical face climbing awaits before you reach the top. A
trickier so a dinghy is probably in order.
favourite line for that photo opportunity in that no-hands rest.
Exit - A natural exit is possible on the left-hand side of the
The Main Cave
There are only three lines at present in the cave which all
2 He Who Dares Rodders 2pc 7b S1 cave (looking in). It is probably more convenient and safer to
install a rope to exit on the right-hand side of the cave. 6 Lama ................. c 7b S1
19m. Start on the right-hand side of the cave. Traverse left There is definitely more potential here for new lines espe- 9m. A short face climb on the right-hand side of the cave.
require a dingy to access. The Exit point is to the right of the around the arete and into the cave where you will eventu-
cave and is easy to attain in calm conditions. cially near the stone staircase.
ally gain some huge black stalactites, just to the left of the
arete. Pull around on undercuts to finish direct on the crimpy
1 Up the Anty . . . . . . . . 2pc 6c+ S1 headwall, which may well see you in the drink. 1 Sa Rossaguera . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
FA. Neil Gresham July 2002 14m. From just above sea level, climb easily to the top.
25m. Start at the left-hand side of the main cave and climb
3 Geordie Racer . . . . . . . . 1c 7a S1
diagonally right over some steep terrain to the featured upper
wall. Don't pump out! 2 Aresta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007 17m. Climb the right side of the arete to just above the lip of 15m. Right above the mouth of the cave.
the cave. Swing left for a couple of meters and finish to the Easy Way Down
right of He Who Dares Rodders.
FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
3 Follam Balam. . . . 2pfc 8a S0 6
22m. When the conditions are right, this is the one to bag!
A boat is helpful to get the start. Navigate your way over the
Nic Ward climbing Up the Anty 6c+. roof and join Balam. There is a lovely no-hands rest near the
Photo by Ged Desforges lip of the cave so take full advantage of that. The upper wall is
quite thin and technical.
The cave of Llombards South

Photo by Daimon Beail
Cala Llombards MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Cristo Novo Sector Esperenza
Cala Llombards is for climbers seeking solitude away from the crowds. There are two
crags; Llombards North, which is the main attraction; and Llombards South, which is a
short walk south and gets few visits. The cliff face is cut into two - the lower wall is a sea OEA 8 min
BOAT
cliff and very soloable, mostly above clean water with no rocks.
Approach
From Santanyi follow signs for 'Es
PMV401-2
Llombards' and follow the PM610 to a
roundabout. Take the second exit on the Alqueria Blanca
right sign posted 'Cala Llombards'. Follow C714 C717

this road for about 1km to a bend to the left. C717 C717 Cala 3
Continue for about another 2km until you d'Or
4
reach a built-up area. Take the first major Porto 1
left turn signed 'Platja' as well as 'Cala Es SANTANYI Petro 2
Llombards
Llombards'. Follow this for a short way and PM610 610-2
take the first right and continue down here
Cala
to where the road curves around to the Cala Figuerai
Santanyi
left and winds its way through the housing
estate. Where the road splits in two, take CalaLlombards
the road on the right down to a dead end Crags
where you can park and walk down some
stairs to the cliff edge. Alternatively you
Sector Esperenza
A handful of shorter lines, which are easier than those in
2 My name is Jackie . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
10m. Start from Baby Loader and make tricky moves into the
can continue on the left road at the cave. There are a number of ways to access the area but left groove to join Retro Cruiser.
most people tend to traverse in from the right side of the FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
the split to a junction, turn right Es cave along Retro Cruiser. Upon topping out you can either
c
Santanyi
and right again which will take Llombards jump off or reverse to the right of Esperenza as there is no
3 Baby Loader. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+ S0
walk-off due to the vegetation. Exit at the cave.
you down a semi-tarmaced road 610-2 Approach - Routes 2, 3, 4 are approached by a long traverse 9m. From the ledge, move left and down, to swing left into the
PM610 Son
to another parking area, which Moger from a water exit point way right (dingy required). Route 1 right of the two grooves. Climb up this, and move right to the
large pocket, and finish direct.
is down by the cliff edge. Upon Cala is approached from the water exit at the right-hand end of
FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
Santanyi main cave.
reaching the sea you can either
Cala
4 Esperenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 5 S0
1 Retro Cruiser . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
head left for a short way to reach Figuerai
9m. The easy crack.
the cave of Llombards North, or 14m. From the left side of the wall, traverse the slab to the FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
head right along the sea cliff for CalaLlombards bulge. Use the pocket to climb over the bulge and gain the big
about 10 minutes to Llombards flake. Finish direct from here.
Crag FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007
South.
Crag
Conditions
As with all cave venues, you
are always going to get some The Main Cave Sector Esperenza
greasy rock from time to time.
On the plus side these crags are
exposed to the wind so this may
well prevent large build up of
moisture in the caves. The top- Llombards North
outs to some of the lines are a Staircase
little bit friable in places but this

is slowly changing as more and
more people attempt the lines. Llombards South
Map not to scale
Porto Colom MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Santanyi Es Pontas
Hidden away underneath the Porto Colom
lighthouse is an exciting venue, which is PMV401-2
C alas Es Pontas - the King Line
de The first ascent of Es Pontas was captured
more suited to the roof-hungry boulderer. F E LA NIT X M allor c a
PM401 Sa by Big Up Productions and appears in
The classics of the area are The Princess of P lana
V e lla the film 'King Lines'. This photo comes
Transilvania 7a+ and I Live in a Cave 6b. S ant S alvador
E s D om ingos courtesy of Josh Lowell at Big Up.
Dominion Wall www.bigUpProductions.com
The lines on the lower section are short 8a+ line
PONTAX
which suits most soloers but the longer routes PM401 P OR T O

C714
which top out are quite committing and gener- C OL OM
C as C onc os PMV401-2
ally don't see that many ascents. Retreat is 7b line
S 'H or ta Lighthouse Area
usually by jump or reversing I Live in a Cave. C ala M ar c al
A lque r ia
To the right side of the crag is a large B lanc a C ala S a N au
platform where you can stow your gear and 7b line
hang out. It is also one of the few soloing C717
C ala S e r e na
C ala F e r r e r a
C717 C ala
venues were you can easily spectate without d'Or
Map not to scale
having to actually climb.
Also in the area is the Dominion Wall which has a huge potential but only limited develop-
ment at present.
Conditions
PWA 5 min
BOAT
The Lighthouse Area is situated in a sheltered cove. The main part of the crag gets the
sun in the middle of the day. With all cave-style routes some of the holds can get soapy
but there is little seepage. Take plenty of chalk with you because it can get quite humid at
times and grease you right off those holds. 1 Easy way up
or down
Approach Es Pontas
The Es Pontas arch is home to one of the hardest routes in 2
Follow the PM-401 takes you all the way the world. With no bolts to hang on, the line of Es Pontas 1
Dominion Wall
to Porto Colom. At the main roundabout requires time, patience and super human abilities to conquer.
Approach - Gaining the arch is tricky and requires either a
turn left and follow the road round the short swim from the mainland to the right side of the arch Water Exits 2 & 3
bay and up towards the lighthouse. Take (indicated as Water Exit 1 on the topo) or use an inflatable Water Exit 1 To Route 1
the last exit on the left just before the boat to the same location. Be extremely careful if you are
lighthouse and follow this for a short
trying to get there in rough seas.
Exit - Take a rope and an inflatable back-up device to help 2 Stop Look and Listen ...... c 5+ S1
way round the sharp corner until you you exit from the water. Water Exits 2 and 3 on the topo are 20m. A very easy anti-clockwise tour of the left pillar of Es
see a white house with a driveway on PM401 slightly easier and safer exit points. Pontas.
the right. On the left side of the entrance
is the name 'Aldea Ibicenca N12' and 1 Es Pontas . . . 3sfgc 9a+ S2
Two other lines have been reported but the authenticity of
them has yet to be confirmed. The first is an 8a+ variant to
23m. Start at the base of the pillar on a small ledge about 2m Es Pontas that starts at the right-hand side of the arch, and
on the right is a 'No Entry' sign for cars. above the water. Tackle a V10 boulder problem over a small crosses over, to top out on the seaward side. The second route
Park somewhere on the left side of the Porto roof and onto the overhanging face to reach some slightly bet- is a 7b that climbs the left side of the arch, and pulls through
road. Walk through the entrance (being ter holds. Continue for about 15 more moves using a series of onto the headwall where things start to go horizontal. A 7a as
Colom
pinches, pockets and the odd tufa before moving right into the well as a 6b can be found on the vertical seaward side of the
discreet as this is an access road to barrel of the gun. At this point it's make or break as you take arch (left side looking in), as well as a few other fun outings.
property) and head straight across to find on a huge dynamic lunge from two undercuts to a large and
some concrete steps leading down to impossibly hard to stick pocket. (Continuing up and then head- There is an isolated traverse on the other side of the cove to
LH ing leftwards for another 6m via a series of finger pockets, and the west.
the sea. At the bottom of the steps, turn topping out on the seaward side of the arch gives you PONTAX
right and head for about 200m along the
3 Treasure Island . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
8c S1. This was done in November 2005 and was Chris
L
TE
Sharma's original finish to the line). From the pocket, continue

rocky path (which requires a little bit of Cala Marcal Lighthouse Area
HO
up and right to cross the belly of the whale via a small juggy 90m. Swim across the cove and traverse to the next bay.
easy traversing in one or two spots) until rail where you may quickly chalk up. Head out to reach the Something to do if you want to see the area. Keep wandering
you arrive at the crag (see map on next lip of the arch on the landward side and follow a series of fat and you will eventually come to Cala Llombards.
slopes until you reach the central point of the arch. With will- FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004
page). power and anything else you can conjure, power on to the top.
FA. Chris Sharma Sept. 26 2006. A truly amazing achievement!
Santanyi Cala Santanyi MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Colom Lighthouse Area
OPUA 5 min
BOAT
PUA 15 min
1 Platform
19
Exit Point 18
17
J J
6 J
J
1 Super Sonic . . . . . 2fpc 7a S0 1
2 5
11m. Traverse left from the platform into the cave. Climb out 3 13 14 15
across the lip of the cave on good holds until almost half way. 8
Climb diagonally up from here. 4 7 11
10 12
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003
9
2 Bird Watching ........... c 6b S0 16
15m. From the platform, climb the flake and then traverse the
break-line to the other platform.
FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003 Close-up on next page
Super
Sonic
3 Naked Germans . . . . . . . . . . c 4+ S0 Area
6m. This is also a good descent route.
Lighthouse Area
4 Wave Machine .......... c 5+ S0 Approach - All the lines are reached via the traverse Drop
Zone 6b+. The only exception is Future Barny to Omprakash
1 Future Barny ............ c 7a S1
6m. Traversing right into the cove leads to a slightly steeper The Cove 16m. Climb the overhanging arete to easier climbing above.
wall. Climb up just right of the arete and past the left side of for which you need to use a dry-bag to get your gear to the
the lip.
other side and climb out onto a large ledge.
S'atic to Cris Rabbit can be reached from I live in a Cave 2 Wenga Xavi . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S1
6b+ and traversing left along the ledge, or one of the lines 16m. Traverse in past the overhanging arete and climb the wall
c directly below them. to its right. Pull over the overlap to an easier wall above.
5 Vino Master ............ 6a S0 Sport Crag
1c
Exit - Most people exit to the right of the crag onto the large
6m. Climb up to and over the right side of the lip. Careful as it's
a bit loose at the top.
platform. A rope is not needed but is handy when rough. 3 No Me Puedo Quejar . . . . 7a+ S1
17m. The finish marked on the topo continues over a small
FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003 C ala S antanyi roof. Alternatively move right to join the roof section of
6 Mr. Smith .............. c 6a S1 Omparakash. Both finishes are thoroughly enjoyable.
18m. It gets a bit shallow towards the back of the cave, which
is where you should really finish this one.
Staircase
4 Omprakash .......... 1c 7b S1
FA. Steve Smith Oct. 2003
17m. Difficult climbing up a blank corner to an increasingly
Map not to scale steep wall above. Manoeuvre across the roof on good holds to
the top.
5 Ren Culo Superchulo . 1fc 7b S0

Cala Santanyi 12m. The last boulder line to be found on this lower wall. After
Approach - The Super Sonic Area is reached by traversing in along Drop Zone, move across the roof on small
swimming or boating across to the platform (as crimps and up the blank wall. This sees most people in the
marked on the topo). Alternatively you can walk drink.
there from the beach. Routes on the left side
of The Cove require you to swim across to the
slightly submerged platform. Then traverse right 3
LH 6 Lu.Ci-Ana ........... 1c 7b S1
4 5 6 20m. The link-up between Ren Culo Superchulo and the top
from here. Mr. Smith is gained by climbing down half of Omprakash. Also quite popular as an alternative mid-
the right side of the cove. climb exit from the routes to its right.
Lighthouse Area
Map not to scale
Porto Colom Lighthouse Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Santanyi
The small bay of Cala Santanyi is best left to those seeking a bit of fun when the weather
PUA
gets too hot for sport climbing on the cliffs of Tijuana. The soloing here is limited, however
15 min the routes are great fun, especially Super Sonic. The rock can be brittle in places and
the bay itself has been known to be hit by freak waves - all this adds to the excitement of
the place. Take care in the Cove Area since the water is shallow in places and a boat is
useful for reaching the Super Sonic Area.
When news began to emerge that Chris Sharma was working something big in Mallorca
9
7 back in 2005 it was no surprise that the project was on the arch of Es Pontas. This
8
5 impressive arch, is isolated from the mainland, and situated slightly further down the coast
and is easily reached via a short drive from the beach at Cala Santanyi. It is easy to get
to in calm seas but much more difficult when the conditions are rough. Chriss efforts are
now legendary and have left us with one of the Worlds hardest routes - Es Pontas.
Approach
Cala Santanyi - From Santanyi, follow signs for Cala Santanyi out of the village. Take the
second turning signed to Cala Santanyi, off this road (ignore the first turning). Then take
Drop Zone the first left turn followed by a right turn (signed HR Palmaria). Continue along this road,
past a roundabout with a tree and park by the barrier which is across the private road that
leads to a tower. Leave nothing valuable in the car. From here walk towards the tower and
turn right at the end. Follow the path and descend to the platform below. When you reach
the sea, turn right and walk along the mini cliff until you get to The Cove.
Es Pontas - Follow signs all the way to Cala Santanyi. When you reach the bottom of
the steep hill you will find signs to Es Pontas. Follow the road back up the bay, past a car
park, and turn left to head up a steep hill. Once at the top of the hill, turn left to take the
coastal road and keep a sharp eye out for the Es Pontas signs. If you are lucky you will
find yourself eventually reaching a dead end. Park here but do not block the entrance to
the wooded area or park on the yellow lines.
Enter the wood and turn right. Follow the
track until you reach a wall and a path which
veers off left towards the cliff. This leads
down to the Es Pontas arch.
7 The Rabbit is Dead . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 610-2
12m. The left-hand variation to Mataconejos which crosses the

roof and heads out over to the arete on the upper wall.
8 Mataconejos ............ c 7a S0
C ala
S antanyi
12m. Climb the roof to gain the upper wall and the crack line
which curves around to the left. Pull around the side of the roof PMV401-2
and finish as for The Rabbit is Dead. A lque r ia B lanc a
9 Princess of Transilvania3pc 7a S0 C714 C717 E s P ontas

12m. An absolute classic! Climb the stalactite rib on the roof
using good pockets to the lip. Pull up on big holds to the
C717 C717 C ala
Map not to scale
Crags
d'Or
stalactite formation and a rest. Move up and right to gain the
upper face and layback your way up the crack to the ledge. P or to
Es S A NT A NY I P e tr o Tijuana Sport Crag
Walk off right or jump into the sea.
L lom bar ds
PM610 610-2
Cala
C ala Santanti
C ala F igue r ai
S antanyi
Andrew Chapman making an early exit from

Princess of Transilvania 7a. Photo: Daimon Beail
C ala Crags Es Pontas Arch
L lom bar ds Route 3
Map not to scale
Cala Serena Prest Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Porto Colom Lighthouse Area
OPEA 5 min
J
J J
J
PUA 15 min
19
17
16
18
15
20 12
21
22
Prest Area 11
A nice selection of routes on good rock. A rope is
useful for descending to the base of the cliff and
10
also make sure a rope is set up for a water exit.
Probably the best location for the exit is under the 9
way down, but check other locations as well. Drop Zone
t Es Xirimollo . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 p Prest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
14m. 8m.
y Xapapote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8a+ S0 a Gasolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

13m. 9m.
u Superguapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8a S0 s Europa ................ c 6b S0

12m. 9m.
i Malle ................. c 7b+ S0 d Sense Casc . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 0 Tequila-men ............ c 7b+ S0 t Topspin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 7a S0

11m. 12m. Big roof climbing to the upper wall. 14m. The right-hand version of Titan. Again this line finishes
12m.
rather high and a down-climb is recommended if jumping off.
o Diedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0 f Trobador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0 q Baby Nate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0
10m. 12m.
12m. A shot corner to overcome with some tricky roof climbing y Drop Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0
thrown into the equation. 35m+. This is the only way to access the lines on the lower wall
but makes a fun outing in its own right. This line is normally
w I live in a Cave . . . . . .2pc 6b+ S0 finished just past the start of Rene Culo Superchulo where there
is a small shelf to rest. It is possible to continue to the other
12m. A popular line. A short roof leads to a small deep cave -
side but this is rarely done. Watch out for the polish at the start.
squirm in for a rest. Unfortunately there is also a big rest possi-
ble on a ledge on the right, but this is off route. From the cave,
continue up and right to a small roof and a sharp jug out right. u c
S'atic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7b+ S2
Heave your way over onto the upper wall and to the ledge. 12m. The first of three lines taking you over the final roof and
to the top of the crag. Many people do this as a continuation to
The rest of the routes are shown on the topo on page 12. The Rabbit is Dead.
e Mi LLamo Chris . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 i Niagara Will Fall ......... c 7b S2

18m. The only route on this part of the wall which tops out. 12m. A hero's medal awaits anyone trying this one! A possible
Way Down Climb the left side of the bulging face. Take care near the top. continuation to Princess of Transilvania.
r c
Titan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6c+ S0 o Cris Rabbit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S2
12m. Traverse onto the face and cross the white streak diago- 12m. Some serious highball action and watch that ledge at the start.
22 23 24
nally then power your way up onto the small ledge. It's quite far
to jump from this height so a reverse a bit first.
Porto Colom Dominion Wall MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Mi Primera Flinada Area
Dominion Wall
Slightly further north of the lighthouse is the
hidden Dominion Wall. It is a great playground
and should be visited by any pioneer who
PEF 15 min OPEA 5 min
wishes to seek out further possibilities in the

area. With over 300+ metres of crag to explore
there is surely a classic or two here waiting to
be discovered. Take a rope and abseiling gear
as well as a dingy to explore the Dominion's
potential.
Approach - Drive through Porto Colom as if
approaching the lighthouse. As the road turns
head right up the left side of the bay (looking
out) to a dirt track heading north east. Follow
this to a rocky bay by the sea and a path along
the cliff edge. Park here and head through a
gate to the top to the hill. Continue until you can
see an easy way down the cliff to a platform.
Scramble down about 4m to a sloping ledge
leading down towards the sea. Continue down 3
and round to the right (looking out) to an easy
way down towards the sea. Traverse right
(looking in) back around the corner (now at a
lower level) towards the wall and the start of the
routes. All lines are reached by traversing along
Techno Mancore which is fairly easy at the
start. The only problem is the section beyond
Dominion Wall where you have to complete the
traverse.
Conditions - The wall is made up of sandstone 5
and limestone. It has not seen much traffic so 4 12
11
the top-out is still a bit loose in places.
Exit - Not too many problems here as a short 10
swim round the corner leads to a ledge and an 7 8 9 14
easy exit. Ropes are always advised for rough 13
conditions.
2
Exploration - For those seeking the future
realm, grab a dingy and head right (looking out
to sea) to explore this giant landscape. There is
one obvious area which is a large cave on the
left side of the wall (photo below). Remember 1
to check the water's depth if attempting any of
these lines.
1 Techno Mancore! . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 4 The Camp Jogger . . . . 2pc 6c+ S0 8 Terra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1 Mi Primera Flinada Area
20m. The main way to access all the lines on this wall. Watch 16m. Probably the best line here. Traverse along Techno Mancore 14m. The routes from Espases to Mi Primera Flinada are definitely
out for those tricky bits near the end. to the bulging overhanging feature. Pumpy climbing on good worth seeking out. They feel a bit high at the top but are still
FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06 holds takes you up to a mini-roof section and on to victory.
FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06
9 Guantanamo ............ c 7b S1 less than 15m. Banyada to Submarina need to have calm
conditions as it can get very wet at the start.
2 2D 3D . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1c 6b+ S0
14m.
17m. The first route to be put up on this wall. Make a diagonal 5 Dominion Wall . . . . . . . . 1c 6b S1 0 Mi Primera Flinada . . . . . .3c 6b S1 w Acuatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0
crossing past a large horn which you can sit on for a rest. The 18m. This line is very odd and quite adventurous. From the 8m.
14m. An awesome route. Traverse to where the lower cave
rest is highball climbing on large jugs. platform, climb the left side of the face using a crack and vari-
begins and head up some super slopers and side-pulls to
FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06 ous hidden jugs. When you reach the break, traverse right until
you reach an exit point up a shallow corner.
reach the bulging upper wall. Power on to the top using some e Abugraib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0
3 IMAX. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0 FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06
humongous and ever-so-slightly sharp jugs. 9m.
17m. Follow 2D 3D to the upper wall and make an airy traverse
out over the lip of this bulging feature and onto the nose. The q Banyada ............... c 7b S0 r Submarina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0
rest is easy. 8m. 9m.
Cala Serena Tort Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Sa Nau
Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove, sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of
OEA
which is home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right (looking out) starts
4 min quite small and offers one or two mid-grade lines. The crag increases in height further
right eventually leading to a large cave. This is where the hard routes are with their big fall
potential. The amazing Hupolup Kempf crosses the roof of the cave at the lofty grade of
8b. Further right, around the headland, is a small cove with a mini-cave at the back. This
is a good starter spot known as the 'Virgin Area'. The climbing is limited but it can keep
you entertained for a few hours with mostly short, mid-grade lines.
Way Down Approach

From Felanitx, navigate your way around the one-way streets to find the PM-401
signposted to Porto Colom. Follow this to meet the road from Porto Cristo. Turn right,
keeping on the PM-401 to Porto Colom. When you eventually come to the junction, turn
left and then quickly make a right onto the PMV401-2 to Santanyi. Follow this to the little
village of SHorta. Turn left, following signs to Cala Ferrera, and after a short distance is
a sign pointing to Cala Sa Nau on the left. Follow this road to its end and park. From the
narrow parking area, walk along the right-hand side of the bay until you reach some steps
cut into the rock. From here you can cut across right to reach the Virgin Area or continue
5 straight on to the Hupolup Kempf Cave.
1 2 3 4 6 7
Calas
PMV401-2 de
FELANITX Mallorca
PM401 Sa
Water Exit Plana
Vella
Es Domingos
Sant Salvador
Tort Area
The routes here all start off with wonderful holds, only to PM401
C714 PORTO
deliver you at a blank upper section that may well see you in
the drink. Cas Concos PMV401-2 COLOM
Approach - Either follow the way down the line drawn on the S'Horta Cala Marcal
topo, or traverse in from the Sosec area.
Alqueria
Exit - Normally back at the Sosec area, or a rope can be Blanca Cala Sa Nau
installed as marked on the topo.
Crag
1 Romani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
Cala Serena
C717 Cala Ferrera
C717 Cala
d'Or
8m. Cala Egos
2 Dimiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
8m.
3 Tort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
4 BBC .................. c 6b S0 Cala Sa Nau

8m.
5 Cantabrica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 Bounty Sector

8m.
6 Sa Multa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
Hupolup Cave
8m.
7 Espases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 Dieter Werther on the three-star

line of Mi Primera Flinada 6b
Virgin Area Ged Desforges on Attack of the Killer
Spindly Fish 7a+. Photo: Steve Burdett.
14m. Map not to scale
Cala Sa Nau Virgin Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Sosec Area
OPUA 10 min
OEA 4 min
Bolt
8
4 7
Way Down
2 5
3
Virgin Area
Approach - Virgins Are Only Human is gained by a simple 8 Little Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 5+ S2
down-climb and a little walk along a ledge until you start 15m. Start as for Frogger and make your way along the cliff
climbing. Attack Of The Spindly Killer Fish to Little Fish are until you reach the sandy arete, which you finish up. Half way
traditionally approached from the water or by reversing Frogger. through the traverse is a little cave. The climbing here is above
Exit - Under the start of Virgins Are Only Human. a small ledge, so take care!
FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004
Conditions - Big holds but a little greasy when humid.
6
There is also a line inside the cave (on the right-hand side),
1 Virgins Are Only Human . 1c 6a+ S0 which goes at 7a. Unfortunately this line is often damp, and has Broker 1 2 3 4
12m. Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then not been included on the topo. 5 7
traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof.
FA. Bernard Exley Oct. 2004
Maria Becerril getting to grips with
2 Attack of the Spindly Killer Fish Frogger 4+. Photo: Daimon Beail
Water Exit
2sc 7a+ S0
Water Exit
...................
2c
8m. Climb the arete on the right-hand side of the cave to a
break below the bulge. Move up and right to make some hard Sosec Area 4 Sosec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+ S0
moves over the bulge. Tis is probably the most popular section of the crag. All the 8m. Easy climbing to the grove on the left side of the block.
FA. Nic Ward June 2006 routes are a good height and each one comes in two parts
- a pocketed lower wall and a thin and technical upper wall.
5 Mano Negra ......... 2c 6c S0
3 Gen Lock ........... 2c 6a S0 Approach - Climb down the rope from a bolt at the top of the
crag to the platform below (good place to stow some of your
8m. Long moves to the lip and some powerful climbing above
8m. Starting from the water ledge, make your way up to the on sharp holds.
gear). Continue down a gully on the rope to the start of The
roof and find those hidden buckets, then power to the top.
Tortilla Traverse which leads to all the routes in this sector.
Exit - It is vital to install an exit rope before you start as it is 6 The Tortilla Traverse . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0
4 I Tell Thee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 4+ S0 impossible to exit the water without it. 80m+. Start at the bottom of the way down and traverse to
Vinga Bou in the Sa Fundacio Area. Climb up this or, alterna-
10m. Start as for Gen Lock and then make a rising traverse
right to the exit.
1 Mapau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a+ S0
tively, you swim back to the start. An average grade of 7a+ has
been given but it's so long that you deserve a 7b tick for sure.
9m. Pocketed first half followed by an awesome crimp feast on FA. Many explorers and one recogniser on 29.09.06
c
the top wall.
5 Coldron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 S0
7 Bag Puss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
8m. Start slightly right of I Tell Thee and make a direct ascent
of the wall to the same exit.
2 Vip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2c 6b+ S0 14m. Straightforward climbing up a pocketed and crimpy wall.
9m. A little more taxing and committing than Mapau. The angle eases the higher you get.
FA. James Cole Oct. 2004
FA. James Cole Sept. 06
6 Frogger . . . . . . . . 2stc 4+ S1 3 Rasputin . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a S0

9m. Large pockets take you to the thin upper wall which has
11m. Start from the same ledge as Coldron, traverse right-
many golden crimps everywhere.
wards to the arete and then climb to the top. Watch out for the
little ledge below.
FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004
7 C++ .................. c 4+ S0
9m. Start as for Frogger, and then climb the faint arete.
FA. Peter Brown Oct. 2004
Cala Serena Dreta and Meteoro Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Sa Nau Hupolup Cave
OEA 4 min OPUA 14 min
4
1 2 5 6
3
7
Way Down 2 8
1 Hupolup Kempf. . . 3fsc 8b S2 Hupolup Kempf Cave

Hard and intimidating lines for the more daring deep water
19m. Showing the way of things to come, Klem Loskot's test-
piece goes up the right-hand side of the cave to the roof which soloers. Luckily, things ease off moving rightwards.
is then crossed using crimpy holds. Prepare yourself for some Descend - Either Way Down 1 which is a 4 scramble and
serious air time. traverse off left (facing the rock) into the back side of the
FA. Klem Loskot 2003 cave. Or use Way Down 2 which is an easy 5.
Exit - Tricky in rough waters and should be avoided. In
2 The Weather Man - Left-hand Start calmer seas it is easy to clamber out directly under the
3fsc 8a+ S2
mouth of the large cave.
................
17 18 19
18m. A left-hand start to the next route.
FA. Chris Sharma 2003 7 Scalfament ............. c 6a S1
11 16 18m. Follow the left-hand dark streak to the top.
10
12 13 14
15 3 The Weather Man 3fsc 8a+ S2
8 Scalfament 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a+ S1
18m. Similar ground as Hupolup Kempf but at a slightly easier
grade. Nevertheless it requires an immense amount of mind 18m. Follow the right-hand dark streak to the top.
control when making those final moves to the jug.
Water Exit FA. Chris Sharma 2003 Bounty Sector
The Bounty Sector has an easy descent scramble (Way
4 Vadage . . . . . . . . 1stc 7c S1 Down 3) to reach Under a Dark Sky and a short down climb
q Alcaeda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 y Soller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 16m. Make a more direct ascent to the bulge and continue over slightly further along the crag is needed to access Bounty.
Exiting both lines is either done by a rope or a tricky climb
9m. 9m. making some harder moves to reach easier ground.
out of the cave.
w Ali Muma Ye ............ c 6c S0 u Es Baluart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0 5 Cheers Chartle . . . . . . 1pc 6c+ S0 The next two routes are at the north east end of the crag.
9m. 9m. 9m. The bulging wall on chalked up pockets is a popular one.
6 Wesatrocity . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a+ S0 9 Bounty. . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 6c

e Meteoro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 i Calvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0
S0
14m. A good left-to-right traverse. Climb down into the scoop and
9m. 9m. 8m. The first line you come to just left of Way Down 2. traverse the finger-rail to join the last part of Under a Dark Sky.
r Nomas ................ c 6a S0 o c
Broker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6a+ S0 0 Under a Dark Sky . . . . . . 2c 6b S0
9m. 9m. The last line on the large rail which belongs to the Sosec 11m. Climb up and left to a series of flutings and a break under
area. From the large bucket power up on spaced holds to a thin Cala Sa Nau the roof. Move slightly left and over the lip on good holds.
t Aromes de Margrony. . . . . . . c 6a S0 upper wall.
OPUA
9m. Climb the right-hand side of the tufa.
Way Down 3
14 min
Way Down 2
Bounty Sector
9
Way Down 1
10 Way Down 3
Hupolup Sector
Map not to scale
Cala Mitjana MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Dreta and Meteoro Area
Down the coast from Cala Sa Nau is Cala Mitjana - a fantastic cliff of good height offering
a small range of steep mid-grade lines. There are two recorded lines in the 7s to chal-
lenge the more daring soloer. Cala Mitjana is only a 15-minute walk from the main cliff at OEA 4 min
Cala Sa Nau and is easily recognisable from the ship-like mast which is situated on top
of the cliff. Several strong teams of climbers have visited the crag but unfortunately no
official record was made on these visits except for magazine articles and documentary film
footage. It is highly possible that there are a number of other lines on this crag, but until
these are declared, here is a selection for you to enjoy.
Approach
It is possible to drive to the bay of Cala Mitjana but it is quite difficult to access the crag.
Instead most people visit Mitjana on the same day they climb at Cala Sa Nau, since it is
only a short walk over the hill. From the Virgin Area at Cala Sa Nau (see page 17) head
up the hill with the sea on your left. At the top is the ship's mast - head for that.
Mega 1 2 3 4 5
Virgin Area
6
at
7 8 9 10
Cala Sa Nau
Wall
1
The Dreta and Meteoro Areas
A fine selection of routes. If you are planning to spend a lot
5 Pop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
9m.
of time here install a rope to use for descending to the base
6
Cala Mitjana Map not to scale
as well as a rope to exit the sea. In this area it is easy to top
out by traversing right to the point above Noman where there 6 Dreta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
is only a small amount of vegetation to battle through. 9m.
7 Coloms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
Exit - The main water exit should be installed under the
Calas
Sosec Area. It is also possible to install and exit under Soller.
PMV401-2 de 9m.
FELANITX Mallorca
PM401 Sa
Plana
Vella
1 Setze Jutges ............ c 6b S0 8 Toques ................ c 6b S0
Es Domingos 9m. 9m.
Sant Salvador
2 Mengen Fetge ........... c 6b S0 9 Saixeta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0

PM401 9m. 9m.
C714 PORTO
Cas Concos PMV401-2 COLOM 3 Dolby ................. c 6b S0 0 Down ................. c 6b S0
S'Horta Cala Marcal 9m. 9m.
Alqueria
Blanca
Cala Sa Nau
4 Tot Petit ............... c 7b S0
Crag 9m.
Cala Mitjana
C717 C717 Cala Cala Ferrera

d'Or Cala Egos
An Island classic, Illuminations 6b+.
Cala Serena Tokio Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Mitjana
OPEA 4 min OPEA 25 min
Easy Way Down
2 3
Water Exit
2
Cala Mitjana Around into the bay to the right is a small cliff. In the middle is
Approach - There is an easy grade 4 down-climb 10m to the a small cave and above this is a line of pockets, leading up an
right (looking in) of Illuminations. Then traverse for 10m to otherwise blank face.
1 the start of Illuminations. For Animal Magnetism abseil in to
the giant thread in the wall. Midnight Mast and Mitjana Party
are easily accessed by making a short down-climb (grade 3) 6 Rich Bitch . . . . . . . . . . . 2c 7a S1
as marked on the topo and traversing right to a ledge. 7m. Start just to the right of the hole at the back of the cave on
3 4 the ledge. Leap to the first pocket, and heave yourself up the
5 8 Exit - To the left of the crag (as marked on the topo) which
6 7 requires a sharp but fairly easy climb. wall. Make a tricky move onto a small ledge and finish with a
Aspergilo Area To reach Rich Bitch down climb to the right of the route few thin moves near the top.
FA. Ged Desforges June 2006
(looking in) and then make a short traverse. There are many
exit points dotted around here.
Water Exit 1 Midnight Mast . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0

8m. Trickier than it looks. Needs some laybacking near the top. Way Down
FA. 2002
2 Mitjana Party. . . . . . . . . sc 7a+ S1

16m. Traverse rightwards to the bulge and up to the roof. Make
some tricky moves over the lip and power on to the top.
Tokio Area 5 La Xina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0 FA. 2002
The cave to the right of the Aspergilo Area also tends to have 9m. 5
a rope in place to exit the water. The line Tokio is a golden 3 Animal Magnetism . . . . . sc (8b+)
gem to try with the tricky bit at the top to get your heart
pumping. Top-outs are the same as for the Aspergilo area.
6 c
Tokio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6b+ S0 10m. Not yet climbed - a suggested grade of 8b+ has been
9m. From the right-hand side of the cave climb the overhanging rumoured. Abseil down the cliff to a large thread and hook
wall on big holds to reach the vertical wall. A few thin moves your leg into it. Make some dynamic moves out left followed by 4
1 Es Pate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 and the odd mega pinch lead to a sloppy finish on the head of
a tufa. It is quite easy to just wander over onto Galactics at the
some shallow pockets to tackle the blank wall above.
17m.
end which reduces the grade to 6b. 4 Illuminations . . . . . . . 3fc 6b+ S0 3
2 Es bol.leti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0 7 Galactics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
9m. Probably the best line at Mitjana. Traverse left into a giant
side-pull which takes you straight into the crux. Gain the break
13m.
9m. Start just outside the cave and climb similar territory to via some shallow pockets and continue up. Move left slightly
3 Es Papa ............... c 7b S0 Tokio with an easier finish. into a recess to a rest before continuing to the top.
FA. 2002
10m.
8 Mega ................. c 6b S0 5 3fc
4 Medalles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0 9m. New Forms . . . . . . . . 6b+ S0
12m. Climb Illuminations to the break and traverse left for
9m. about 4m until you see a pocketed line rising above you. Use
these to ride to the top. Another great line.
FA. 2002
Cala Serena MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Aspergilo Area
Cala Serena is now the biggest venue on the Island, with almost 100 routes in total, most
OPEA
of which consist of golden juggy walls low down, and thinner, technical sections near the
finish. It was developed, mostly by local Mallorcans, in 2003. 4 min
The cliffs rise to about 18m in places, but almost all the lines finish way below this mark
with a maximum fall of around 15m if you are unlucky. Topping out is generally a breeze
with most of the shorter lines finishing on some sort of a ledge. The rest of the climbing
to the top of the cliff is on easier-angled slabs (about grade 2 or 3). There are some more
vegetated top-outs but these can be avoided by heading down a rope to try other lines or
traversing to another section of the cliff.
Serena is not all good news. The left side of cliff (looking in) is sharp and grey. Most
people generally avoid this area, which is from Mallorca es Fonki to the start of the Adosat
Area. Another downside is that towards the late afternoon, hundreds of jellyfish have been
seen streaming by. This is not a constant feature, but something to watch out for.
Safety - Water Exits

Before venturing onto any of the routes make sure you have a rope in place to get out of
the water since escaping is a big problem here. Also having an inflatable around is a good
idea. Some of the lines require you to dry-bag it to an area, where there may be fixed
ropes but you may have to install the ropes yourself by traversing across to that area or
abseiling in. Water exits are marked on topos where it is possible to install a rope.
Sa Fundacio Cave
Approach
1 2
Cala Serena is very close to Cala Mitjana. So just follow the same direction as you would Vinga Bou 3 4
for Cala Sa Nau (see page 16) to get to the village of SHorta. Then follow signs for 'Cala
Ferrera' and continue on the main road (past the turning for Cala Sa Nau) to a rounda-
bout. Take the second exit, and follow this to the end (where the road curves around to
Water Exit
the left and ends) - park here.
Walk down a driveway, which leads to an abandoned swimming pool overlooking the cliff
edge. This area is the remains of a closed holiday park, which is slowly being bought up
by private owners. It is very easy to just walk right across their land without realising it. But
generally where the grass is greener, that is private land.
Good behaviour is essential here especially around the entrance to the cliff top. The future Aspergilo Area 1 Llet negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
of Serena depends on it! This is a great area to get stuck into if the lines out of the 13m.
caves are dry. There are usually ropes dangling in the water
from the cave where Manca and Les Ajudes start and most
people dry-bag it to this point. The tops have become over-
2 Aspergilo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S1
PMV401-2
Calas 13m.
de grown, so either battle your way through the plant life to the
FELANITX
3 Manca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
Mallorca wall, and onto the top path, or head back down a rope, which
PM401 Sa
Plana you fixed earlier from the top.
Vella Fe
n
13m.
Es Domingos ce
c 7a S0
Sant Salvador
C ala F e r r e r a 4 Les Ajudes .............
13m.
PM401
C714 PORTO
Cas Concos PMV401-2 COLOM Cala Serena
C ala
S'Horta Cala Marcal S e r e na
Area
Alqueria
Blanca Cala Sa Nau
Crag
Cala Serena
C717 C717 Cala Cala Ferrera
d'Or Cala Egos
Map not to scale
Cala Serena Sa Fundacio Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area
PE&A 4 min OEA 8 min
Way Down
Way Down
Way Down
4 7
2
6
8
3 9
5 15
2 1
10 11 12 13 14
3 16 17 18 19 20
Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area 0 El Mas Fardon . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

This area is generally avoided by most people due to the 8m.
short routes and sharp and brittle nature of the rock.
Approach - Most routes are generally easy to get to by down
climbing, either of the 'way down' lines drawn on the topo.
q Tacon Cubano ........... c 6b S0
7m.
A rope is needed to exit the water so make sure one is in
Sa Fundacio Area
This cave is often damp and many of the routes seldom dry
Heidi Spets, pulling hard on
one of Serena's many 6cs.
place before attempting any of the lines here.
w Pasate el microfono . . . . . . . c 6b S0
out near the base. You may want to use a rope to gain the 7m.
starts and install one for exiting the water. 1 Chanelance . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m. e Bombas ............... c 6b S0
7m.
1 Diedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 2 Vacaciones en el mar . . . . . . c 6c S0
12m. 8m. r Sifon y jena ............ c 6b S0
8m.
2 Sa Fundacio ............ c 7a S0 3 Mallorca es Fonki ........ c 6c S0
18m. 8m. t Don Simon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
3 Bou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 4 Escupe La Flema ......... c 6c S0
18m. Rumour has it that this one climbs the roof of the cave, 8m. y La Manicura. . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
left to right on big holds!! 5m.
5 Batalla de Cazalla ........ c 6b S0
4 Vinga Bou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 8m. u La Corna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
18m. 5m.
6 Estilo Pancho Villa . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
9m. i Cap Torero Sense Banyas ... c 6b S0
5m.
7 La Escuela ............. c 6c S0
9m. o Guais Estails . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
5m.
8 Zafarrancho . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
8m. p Nora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
5m.
9 Golpe Bajo ............. c 6b S0
8m.
Cala Serena Adosat Area MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Cala Serena Adosat Area
OEA 6 min
C ala
S e r e na
Fen
ce
Adosat Area
7
Sa Fundacio Aspergilo to Way Down
Mallorca Es Fonki Area Sosec Area
to Bombas Area
Tort to Prest 3
12
Area 4 5 9 10 11
8
6
Map not to scale Water Exit
Adosat Area
4 Vuitmil ................ c 6b S1 Approach (Routes 8 to 12) - Walking south along the cliff-
8m. top path you come to a set of stairs set away from the cliff
Things begin to improve and the rock slowly turns to the edge (photo right). These lead down to the entrance of the
golden pocketed walls people are used to in Mallorca.
Approach (Routes 1 to 7 - next page) - Most routes are Way Down 5 Efecto Especial Verbal. . . . . . c 6b S0 cave which has bars across it. Squeeze through and carefully
follow the carved stone and concrete stairs to the bottom.
generally easy to get to by down climbing, either of the 'way 8m.
There is no need for a torch but go carefully and watch out
down' lines drawn on the topo. A rope is needed to exit the
water so make sure one is in place before attempting any of 6 Toreros Muertos ......... c 6b S0 for one or two obstacles on the way and the glare of the sun
shining in.
the lines here. 10m.
Exit - The right-hand side (looking in) of the cave entrance.
7 Albornoz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
1 Anselm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
11m.
10m. 8 Mocs i Po . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1 Way Down

2 Especula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
17m.
10m.
9 Moc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S2
3 Adosat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
10m.
10m. Path 0 Efecto Especial Verbal. . . . . . c 6b S0

6m. 12
c 6b S0
13
q Toreros Muertos
OEA
.........
6 min
6m.
w Mini Me. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
6m.
Way Down
Way Down
2
1
Nora
Serena's cliffs are a perfect height for deep water soloing and jumping off if things get too hot. Photo: Andrew Chapman

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Bookle

Porto Cristo Novo

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE

ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.

Deep Water Soloing Approach

Porto Cristo Novo. . . . . . . . . . . 8 Son

Porto Colom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Golf

Cala Mitjana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Genova

Cala Serena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 PM-1 M

This edition of the

very rough and you are advised to keep www.flybmi.com, www.britishairways.com,

or tricky moves PMV401-2 Road number

Alcdia Port d'Alcdia

New Areas Cova de Ses Puntes

Cala Marcal to 6 Tanassa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

1 Aqua Phobia ....... 3fc 6c S0 7 Dim Dim . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 5 S0

2 The Little Blue . . . . . . 1fc 6b+ S0 8 The Ease of Passage . . . . . . . c 3 S3

3 It Tastes Like The Sea . . . fc 7b S2 9 Deep Sea Climbing. . . . . . . . c 5+ S1

Cova del Diablo

15m. Traverse another 15m beyond Shrek to pump the grade

7 La Hostia. . . . . . . 3sfc 8a+ S2 OD

FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006

FA. Grant FArquhar Oct. 2001

been done though was Neil Gresham's S on Pr ohe ns

mega He Who Dares Rodders. Shortly after, F E LA NIT X C alas de M allor c a

P or to C olom Map not to scale

and documented them.

much development is because you need a

Llombards South makes climbing on the stalactites poten-

Llombards North 4 Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy. . . fc 8a+ S0

The cave of Llombards South

right sign posted 'Cala Llombards'. Follow C714 C717

little bit friable in places but this

which suits most soloers but the longer routes PM401 P OR T O

Sharma's original finish to the line). From the pocket, continue

6 Mr. Smith .............. c 6a S1 Omparakash. Both finishes are thoroughly enjoyable.

5 Ren Culo Superchulo . 1fc 7b S0

12m. The left-hand variation to Mataconejos which crosses the

9 Princess of Transilvania3pc 7a S0 C714 C717 E s P ontas

Andrew Chapman making an early exit from

y Xapapote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8a+ S0 a Gasolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

u Superguapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8a S0 s Europa ................ c 6b S0

i Malle ................. c 7b+ S0 d Sense Casc . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 0 Tequila-men ............ c 7b+ S0 t Topspin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 7a S0

e Mi LLamo Chris . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 i Niagara Will Fall ......... c 7b S2

wishes to seek out further possibilities in the

Way Down Approach

4 BBC .................. c 6b S0 Cala Sa Nau

5 Cantabrica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 Bounty Sector

7 Espases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 Dieter Werther on the three-star

6 Frogger . . . . . . . . 2stc 4+ S1 3 Rasputin . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a S0

OEA 4 min OPUA 14 min

1 Hupolup Kempf. . . 3fsc 8b S2 Hupolup Kempf Cave

6 Wesatrocity . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a+ S0 9 Bounty. . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 6c

Map not to scale

2 Mengen Fetge ........... c 6b S0 9 Saixeta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0

C717 C717 Cala Cala Ferrera

An Island classic, Illuminations 6b+.

OPEA 4 min OPEA 25 min

Easy Way Down

Water Exit 1 Midnight Mast . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0

2 Mitjana Party. . . . . . . . . sc 7a+ S1

Safety - Water Exits

PE&A 4 min OEA 8 min

Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area 0 El Mas Fardon . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0