100

WAYS TO SEE AUSTR A LI A

E X P LO R I N G
BY F O OT, F L I G H T
AND FOUR WHEELS
TOWNS
ON THE
UPSWING

City sojourns

T H E PA R T Y C O M E S TO O R A N G E | N O R T H B R I D G E G E T S C O O L
S T R A N G E S P A D AY S | I N S I D E O P E R A A U S T R A L I A S W A R D R O B E
 breathe
the worlds
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> Spend two full days exploring Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour
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 CONTENTS Issue 074 April May 2017

1 00 WAYS TO SEE AUST RAL I A

066 O N F OOT
Where your two feet can take you.
072 UNDER CITY LIGHTS
Exploring our urban hubs.
078 ON WH E E L AN D W I N G
On road, off-road and from the air.
084 L IK E A N A -L I S T E R
The chicest stays on the circuit.
090 L I K E A N AT U R AL I S T
Australias weird and wonderful wildlife.
096 L I K E A G A S T RON OM E
Your gourmands guide to travel.
102 L I K E A N H I STOR I AN
Places that shaped Australia.
106 L I K E A C U LT U R E C ON N OI S S EUR
Up your intake of arts and culture.
110 L I K E A N A DV E N T U R E R
Throw caution to the wind.
114 L I K E A L OC A L
The next must-visit towns.

P H O T O G R A P H Y: J O H N L A U R I E
 Y
HAPP
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46

35

86
CONTEN ISSUE 074 APRIL / MAY 2017

S H O RTCU TS
020 W I S H YO U WE R E H E R E 054 O R A NGE FEV ER
The Super Pit, WA Joining the party for trufe season
022 T R AV E L B U Z Z 058 H IP H O O D
The lowdown on the latest in travel Mist district Northbridge, Perth
026 WINE & DINE S UBS CR IBE TO WIN:
Delicious news from the culinary world CULT U RE
Subscribe to Australian Traveller
030 PI L L OW TA L K 128 INNER BEAUT Y for your chance to win a luxury
Hot hotel openings across the country PLAYA by Lucy Folk getaway to Halcyon House, valued
033 131

TA R A S I U K ( H O R S E ) ; R E B E C C A X U ( O P E R A A U S T R A L I A )
MINI-BREAK WA LKA BO UT

P H O T O G R A P H Y: M I C H A E L W E E ( M O O N TA B AY ) ; P E T E R
at $3500. Turn to page 62.
Do digital devices affect our memory? Louise Olsens adventures
035 STYLE SEEKER 132 W H AT IT S R EA LLY LIKE C ONGRATULATIONS TO O UR
Plush and lush items to covet to dress Opera Australia SUBSC RIP TION P RIZE W I NNE R
036 O N T H E ME N U 134 P R IZES FROM ISSUE #72
Joe Scanlan from Burleigh Heads, Queensland,
How to be a better camp cook Win a stay at Yondah Beach House, SA
has won an escape to Pumphouse Point,Tasmania,
038 REWIND 135 O NE FINE DAY valued at $6500.
Sydneys lost bohemian laneway Exploring the lush, relaxing town of
042 T R AV E L T R E N D Maleny in the Sunshine Coast Hinterland
Weird and wonderful spa treatments 136 W H AT S O N

100
Plan your excursions around these
W EEKEND S cultural happenings
046 REVIEWS 138 LET S GO WAYS TO SEE AUSTR A LI A

Freds, Sydney, NSW to the country! ON THE COVER

Wildower, Perth, WA Location: E X P LO R I N G
BY F O OT F L I G H T
AND FOUR WHEELS

Great Ocean Road TOWNS

ON THE

Elements of Byron, Byron Bay, NSW

UPSWING

City sojourns

Photographer:
Peppers Kings Square Hotel, Perth, WA John Laurie
+T H E PA R T Y C O M E S TO O R A N G E | N O R T H B R I D G E G E T S C O O L
S T R A N G E S P A D AY S | I N S I D E O P E R A A U S T R A L I A S W A R D R O B E
4 OCTOBER 2017 | 10 NIGHTS 15 OCTOBER 2017 | 12 NIGHTS 12 NOVEMBER 2017 | 12 NIGHTS
BARCELONA TO VENICE ATHENS (PIRAEUS) TO ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) TO LISBON
Seven Seas Explorer Seven Seas Voyager Seven Seas Explorer
m

ROME
(CIVITAVECCHIA)
OFINO

SORRENTO/CAPRI LORENCE/PISA/
(CIVITAVECCHIA)
MONTE CARLO S (PIRAEUS)
P
(MA
VENICE
MESSINA PATMOS BARCEL
PROVENCE KOPER
(MARSEILLE) (SICILY) LISBON
DUBROVNIK RHODES
BARCELONA VAL LIMASSOL SEVILLE

SORRENTO/
(CDIZ) CARTAGENA
HERAKLION JERUSALEM MLAGA
CAPRI (CRETE) (HAIFA)
 Editors letter

CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT: See
Perths transformation into
an indigenous arts centre
onp109; Go canyoning in
Karijini on p110; Stay
intrue A-lister style at
Jackalope on p84; Walk to
the most easterly point in the
country, in Byron, on p71.

DESPITE EXPLORING EVERY dusty border town, coastal fringe

and hidden city crevice, we simply dont have enough pages in this
magazine to ever exhaust all the wonderful people, places and experiences
this country has to offer. Thats why our special 100 issue is an attempt
to capture a wider snapshot of Australian travel. Of course, 100 doesnt
even come close to covering it all, but its a start.
This year, in planning our 100 issue, we wanted to go deeper. To touch
on not just the places you should see, but how you can best see them.
We were looking to unearth new discoveries, revisit the classics in a fresh
way, and present an alternative to how you might normally plan a trip.
Running in no particular order, our list is here for you to cherry-pick

P H O T O G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y ( B Y R O N B AY ) ; J O N AT H A N C A M
the experiences that speak to you. What kind of traveller are you? Are

( K A R I J I N I ) . A R T W O R K : S H A N E P I C K E T T, S I X S E A S O N S : A S U I T E
O F P R I N T S 2 0 0 5 2 0 0 6 ( D E TA I L ) , S TAT E A R T C O L L E C T I O N , A R T
you the naturalist with your binoculars swinging from your neck,
scrambling to sight a rare tree kangaroo? Perhaps you prefer to see
Australia like an adventurer, seeking out obscure destinations? Maybe
youre the type who sees a holiday as a well-earned reward and the vehicle
for some good old pampering? Whatever style of escape blows your hair
back, weve done our best to sort your next trip, or next 10... or perhaps
even next 100? So, turn to page 65 as we present to you 100 unique ways
to see your Australia.

G A L L E RY O F W E S T E R N A U S T R A L I A
And while youre out there seeing it, dont forget to report back.
We love to hear about your adventures on Instagram and Facebook, or even
drop us a line the old fashioned way by email. Speaking of recording
your holiday digitally, turn to page 33 for a fascinating read on how new
technologies have impacted the way you form holiday memories.
We also have tips for being a better camp cook (page 36), and road test
some of the countrys more unusual spa treatments (page 42) red wine
bath, anyone? Plus we check out Perths gently gentrifying Northbridge
(page 58) and review some of the latest, lauded dining rooms.
So, get planning and as always, happy travels.

NEW DIGITAL EDITION

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NOW. Special
LAR A PICONE, EDITOR introductory
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 Were a passionate bunch of travellers here at AT; always on the hunt
for the next adventure. Heres where were heading this year.

IM HOPING TO GET I will be going to

TO KAKADU FOR
A CAMPING TRIP.
ITS ON MY OUTBACK
HIT LIST.
I want to do Kakadu
as it should be done:
camping in the wilderness
from a kitted-out 4WD.
IM DUE FOR A
REVISIT TO
MELBOURNE. IVE
GOT A LOT OF
DISCOVERING TO DO!
I will be road tripping
from Sydney to Belli Park
to visit family, with pit
stops at Port Macquarie
and Byron Bay.
General manager sales, marketing & distribution KATE SHILLING
Account managers ALISON LANGLEY, MARCUS HURLEY
Sales & marketing coordinator GEORGIA BRAITHWAITE NT. Its the one state/
I AM OFF TO
MERIMBULA.
EXPANSIVE COAST,
FRESH SEAFOOD, SUN,
AND CAMPING WITH
MY BEST FRIENDS.
ALISON
Gold Coast for a long
weekend to take in all
the theme parks and get
reacquainted with my
inner child.
Editor LEIGH-ANN POW | editor@internationaltravellermag.com
EDITORIAL Adelaide this year, which
I am ashamed to admit
Editorial director LEIGH-ANN POW I have never been to!
Editor LARA PICONE | editor@australiantraveller.com
Acting deputy editor DANIEL DOWN IN MIDWINTER, ILL
BE HEADING TO
Sub editor IMOGEN EVESON HOBART FOR DARK
MOFO FESTIVAL.
ART
Acting art director ANITA JOKOVICH I am dying to travel to
Designer REBECC A XU the Whitsundays to see
the expanse of intense
blue against white sand.
ONLINE
Digital editor STEVE MADGWICK
Digital marketing manager LEIGH COUNSELL
Content uploader LUKE VINCENT THIS IS MY YEAR TO
RE-EMBRACE THE
AUSTRALIAN SKI
SALES & MARKETING
FIELDS. MT HOTHAM
For all advertising enquiries, phone 02 9698 7072 IS TOP OF MY LIST.
Sales manager ELLIOTT B ARSBY
Marketing manager TOBI CORNWELL
Ive got to get to the
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AUSTRALIAN TRAVELLER MEDIA been to yet.
Managing director QUENTIN LONG
Director NIGEL HERBERT
Office & subscriptions manager JOANNA DROULIAS
Full stack developer RAMAN KUMAR
Finance director KEN DAVISON I AM HEADING
TO THE CENTRAL
Finance manager MAUREEN ABRAHAM COAST WITH THREE
MATES I TRAVELLED
CONTACT WITH AS AN
18 YEAR-OLD
02 9698 7072 | australiantraveller.com IN 1991.
INTERNATIONAL TRAVELLER
Senior account manager MICHELLE HOGAN
Account manager JOSHUA KEANE

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written authority. Every endeavour is made to ensure information contained in this magazine is correct at time of going
to print. Unsolicited material, including contributions to the Readers Section, may be used by AT, but no responsibility
is accepted for lost manuscripts, artwork or images. Australian Traveller is published bimonthly by Australian Traveller
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Fraser Island,
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 SHORTCUTS
news . pillow talk . style seeker . on the menu . rewind

BRU N Y I S L AND
S O JO U RN
Stay in the award-winning
Shearers Quarters during
a six-day tour of Brunys
best culinary offerings.
Turn to page 26 for more.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: T R E V O R M E I N
W I S H Y O U
THE SUPER PIT GOLD MINE
PLUNGING DEEP into the earth like an
open wound, the Fimiston Open Pit (known
colloquially as the Super Pit) is one of the
biggest open pit gold mines in Australia.
Spanning 1.5 kilometres in width and 3.5
kilometres in length, it is astonishing in its
enormity. The discovery of gold here in 1893
led to the area being dubbed the Golden Mile,
however, since its inception in 1989 the Super
Pit has grown to consume the earlier mines.
W E R E H E R E
K A LGOO R LI E , WA
Its now a popular tourist spot where curious
travellers can stop by for a tour or observe the
mine in operation from the specially created
Super Pit Lookout. Photographer Elise Hassey
captured this otherworldly scene at dusk. Large
vehicles look like toy Tonka trucks as they climb
from the shadowy depths and up the terraced
ridges bathed in surreal purple tones. The alien
scene almost looks like its on Mars, lending the
mine a strange, beguiling beauty.
 SHORTCUTS | Wish you were here
P H O T O G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 21
 SHORTCUTS | Trravel buzz

T R AV E L A SHADE BETTER

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inrose gold, $420, layered textured RING in rose gold,
$300,and oval stud EARRINGS, $170. nataliemariejewellery.com
13. The Daily Edited iPhone 7 navy CASE, $49.95.
thedailyedited.com 14. Lee Mathews Verity Frill DRESS,
$599.leemathews.com.au

P A C K A B A G P H O T O G R A P H Y: G U Y B A I L E Y. S T Y L I N G : R E B E C C A X U
5

ELK IN THE CITY 8

12
Weve long loved Melbourne fashion label Elk , so couldnt
be happier that it has opened its rst agship retail store in
the CBD. The boutique on Little Collins Street was created 14
11
with interior designer Fiona Lynch and is a soothing, minimal 13 9
space. Well certainly be stopping by. elkaccessories.com.au
10
22 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
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Q&A
THE GROUNDS OF ALEX ANDRIA S
RAMZEY CHOKER
Hes the founder of the Sydney eatery that was Instagrams seventh most
geo-tagged place in Australia last year, and we wanted to know more.
How does it feel to have one
of the most Instagrammed
locations in Australia?
I was so humbled to discover that The
Grounds of Alexandria ranked so highly.
Social media is the new TV, so to be
acknowledged in this manner is amazing.
The Grounds is all about creating beauty,
inspiration, joy and forging a connection
in peoples lives. What better way to convey
this than with a photo? Im truly elated.
what inspired The Grounds?
The Grounds was born out of a desire to
infuse everything we do with beauty. At The
Grounds we are committed to arousing all
ve senses. My father was and still is my
greatest inspiration. He exposed me to this
notion of beauty, instilling profound values
like the importance of family, learning, being
a good person and how to become a man
of value. My father taught me what it truly
means to possess a beautiful life and I honour
him each day by continuing his legacy.
youve owned 10 businesses before
now, but people may not know
that The Grounds came from
nothing, after youd lost
everything in the GFC. When
you think back, what gave you
the courage to start again?
I believe courage is a choice. I choose to
view the world and my place in it from
We believe that the people who stole Kevin
unfortunately didnt know much about pigs,
so kept feeding him. Thankfully, our fantastic
team nursed Kevin back to health.
why do you think the Grounds
hit the right mark from day one?
After my father passed away and the bank
repossessed everything, there was a period of
great silence and stillness. While this was one
of the most soul destroying periods in my life,
it enabled me to truly listen. Upon reection,
its as though I tapped into something that
people didnt recognise they needed or were
longing for, until it came into being.
There can be incredibly long wait
times at The Grounds, is this the
downside of popularity?
When confronted with a challenge, such as
long wait times, we immediately look for
solutions. We have been able to resolve the
issue via the beautiful garden that provides a
welcome reprieve for guests who might have
to wait. The markets are a fun, interactive
inclusion created primarily to entertain.
Whats next for Ramzey Choker?
It is my mission to constantly push
boundaries. One thing that Im adamant
about is that I refuse to replicate any concept
already in existence. A new Grounds will
open in Sydneys Lower North Shore in the
2017/2018 nancial year. While it will adhere
to the company ethos that is synonymous with

P H O T O G R A P H Y: K A I L E I S H M A N ( T H E S C H O O L O F L I F E )
a place of learning. A challenge is merely The Grounds, it will be distinctive. Im also
an opportunity to learn and this is what thrilled to announce our new CBD concept
I N WH I TE L E YS WOR DS propels me to engage and positively at The Galeries, a lifestyle and cultural
One of the countrys most iconic artists, Brett benet from this greater comprehension. destination scheduled to open very soon.
Whiteleys highly absorbing and dazzling
works provide a visual overlay of the ideas and
Its the big question everyone The Grounds of the City transports people
identity of Australia wants answered: how did Kevin on a journey into a specic time and place;
in the 70s and 80s. Bacon recover from the infamous this new venture will be transformed into
Whiteley was as prolic pig-napping from his home at The the 1920s. thegrounds.com.au
as he was tormented Grounds in 2013?
and a risk-taker in At the time, Kevin Bacon was only six months
art and life. Hear old, approximately 23 kilograms and had always
the voice behind the been on a strict diet. When Kevin was rescued
art in Whiteley, a
and returned home to The Grounds, we were
documentary featuring
his own voice and never- abbergasted when we saw him. Our healthy,
before-seen interviews svelte piggy was grossly overweight. He gained
and notebooks. The lm about 20 kilograms in two weeks, was breathing
hits cinemas 11 May. heavily and even experienced difficulty walking.

24 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
For the

of your life...
wine & dine
From a BRUNY ISLAND culinary
sojourn to JAPANESE knife skills in
Melbourne, our pick of APPETISING FIVE MINUTES WITH
SOMER SIVRIOGLU
HAPPENINGS across the country. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE TURKISH CUISINE
TO SOMEONE WHOS NEVER TRIED IT? Regional,
seasonal, varietal and abundant are four words Id
use to describe the characteristics of Turkish cuisine.
TURKISH FOOD SEEMS TO SUIT THE
AUSTRALIAN CLIMATE, DO YOU THINK THERES
MANY SIMILARITIES IN THE DINING BETWEEN
THE TWO COUNTRIES? Turkey has seven regions
with a variety of produce and climate differences.
Both the Mediterranean and Aegean regions have
similar climates and produce and the charcoal-style
[cooking] is very similar to our love of barbecue here.
WHAT ANATOLIAN DISH WOULD YOU
RECOMMEND EVERYONE TRIES ONCE? For me
kaymak, a thick, clotted buffalo cream, is one
ingredient I have not been able to produce or import
here successfully, yet. We are working on it with
a local buffalo farm but thats a work in progress.
If you are ever in Turkey, ask for it either with
desserts or simply with local honey, it is divine.
YOU HAVE TWO RESTAURANTS IN SYDNEY,
EFENDY AND ANASON MEZEBAR, CAN YOU
Bruny-bound TELL US WHAT A MEZEBAR IS? Mezebars, or as
we call them in Turkish, meyhanes, are casual eateries
Teaming up with acclaimed architect John Wardle and his wife Susan, Epicurious Travel has
that focus on food designed to accompany your
begun offering a six-day Bruny Island Sojourn on the Tasmanian food haven. Not only will you choice of drink. It is in the same style as Spanish
be able to sample the best culinary offerings from the islands producers on this walking tour, but tapas, Japanese izakaya or, the closest cousin, Greek
youll also stay in the award-winning Shearers Quarters. Expect incredible dining and wine taverna food. As the food is generally designed
experiences, including a private beach barbecue. Dates run from 19-24 April, with more tours around raki, a very strong anise-avoured alcoholic
happening later in the year. epicurioustravel.com.au drink, it is protein driven. The idea is to cover the
stomach lining to absorb the high alcohol content.
WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE AUSTRALIAN CITY
FOR DINING? Running the risk of selling out my

R E A D E M A N D E AT home town, Sydney, and being a clich, I still have

to say Melbourne. Theyve done my style of food,
1. No one can deny Melbournes cafe culture is among the best in

the world. Having run one of the citys most-loved cafes, South of
Johnston, Stuart McKenzie has compiled some of his favourite recipes
in his new book All Day Cafe ($39.99; Murdoch Books). In it youll
nd easy-to-recreate recipes, from French toast to terrine.
2. Naughty x Nice ($45; Equilibrium) celebrates the foodication of
Sydneys Kings Cross. With stories and recipes from some of the areas DESCRIBE YOUR ULTIMATE AUSTRALIAN FOOD
best restaurants, including ACME, The Butler and Bar Bros.
3. Acclaimed Brae chef
Dan Hunter releases a book
about his rst restaurant,
Brae ($75; Phaidon), in
May. Not just recipes, it
chronicles Hunters culinary
journey and locavore
philosophy alongside
beautiful photography of
the landscape and farm.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: T R E V O R M E I N ( S H E A R E R ' S Q U A R T E R S )
not only Turkish but Middle Eastern, Greek and
Spanish, for so long and so successfully thanks to
pioneering chefs such as Greg Malouf and Frank
Camorra. And the rise of Turkish chefs like Ismail
Tosun of Babajan, Kemal Barut of Lezzet and
Coskun Uysal of Tulum is encouraging.
EXPERIENCE I love having Australian shellsh;
from freshly shucked oysters to mud crabs and
marrons on the beach, preferably cooked over coals
and served with a crisp riesling. We are blessed with
some of the worlds best produce and, combined
with our multicultural approach, its no wonder we
have an amazing variety of restaurants some better
than those in their country of inspiration.
WHATS NEXT FOR YOU? We want to bring the
more casual, regional and street-style foods of
Turkey to Australia, and have projects in the pipeline.

26 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
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national parks or just kick back and relax.
Book your Noosa escape now.
Call 1 3000 NOOSA or see visitnoosa.com.au

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AT LOV E S
Here at the magazine we love a good
salad. But what we love even more is a
salad that gives back (and were not
talking heartburn). Two Good founders
Rob Caslick and Cathal Flaherty had a
simple idea to do good: theyd sell great
salads to busy city workers in
Melbourne and Sydney who want to
eat well, and donate the same salad to
people in need. But the good-doing
doesnt stop there. Rob and Cathal
employ disenfranchised women to make
the salads that have been designed by
big-name chefs such as Mitch Orr and
Ben Shewry. If you dont live in the
city, you can simply donate, or purchase
Two Good muesli and ginger and lemon
drop tea. twogood.com.au
ONE FOR THE ROAD
The cocktails that put the most
considered Australian craft spirits
to good use, with recipes from the
best bartenders in the country.
28 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHORTCUTS | Wine & dine
High spirits
TRY VERMOUTH-INSPIRED COCKTAILS AND RUMS FROM
AROUND THE WORLD AT HYATT REGENCY SYDNEY'S
NEW SKY B AR, WITH A DRINKS LIST BY MIXOLOGIST
SUPREME GRANT COLLINS. SYDNEY.REGENCY.HYATT.COM
Coastal Greek
TAVERNA IS A NEW GREEK-INSPIRED RESTAURANT
SMACK-B ANG ACROSS FROM THE BEACH IN THE FAR
NORTH NEW SOUTH WALES TOWN OF KINGSCLIFF; THE
SECOND VENTURE FROM THE PEOPLE BEHIND OSTERIA,
IN NEARBY C ASUARINA. THIS C ASUAL EATERY FEATURES
SEAFOOD ALONGSIDE GREEK-STYLE CLASSICS OF
ROAST LAMB AND KOFTA, AND A
LESS CONVENTIONAL VEGAN
MOUSSAKA. COCKTAILS
ARE JOINED BY A
THOROUGH WINE LIST,
WHICH WE C AN SEE
OURSELVES WORKING
THROUGH LEISURELY.
TAVERN A.NET.AU
You wouldnt normally associate vodka with the
hot climate of Australia, but nevertheless we found
this lovingly crafted drop in Tasmania, a state that
seems hell-bent on becoming the craft spirit capital
of the world. We dropped into Kentucky Rain, attached
to smokehouse The Tickled Rib (currently on the move
to a new and improved location in North Hobart), to
sample Hellre Vodka from Hellre Bluff Distillery.
Hellre is a potato farm and it uses its excess potatoes
to produce this vodka, says manager Lewis Rands.
It operates with a paddock to bottle ethos to produce
a vodka in the traditional way, while reducing waste.
The cocktail is the combination of sweetness from the
elderower and tartness from the blackberry and lemon
without taking away from the vodkas unique taste.
THE RECIPE
THE ROSE TRAIN
45ml Hellre Potato Vodka
30ml St Germain Elderower Liqueur
30ml blackberry puree (made from
50g of frozen blackberries, blended)
15ml lemon juice
Shake all ingredients with ice and then
strain into a tall glass lled with fresh
ice. Garnish with a mint sprig.
HOT OPENINGS
Etta
A new neighbourhood bistro
hasarrived on Lygon Street in
Melbournes Brunswick East. Head
chef Hayden McMillan (formerly
THE ROVING MA RROW ) says the
fare at the relaxed local will reect
the way he likes to dine himself,
a menu more weighted towards
vegetables than proteins. But
meat-lovers fear not, its not a strictly
vegetarian menu. ettadining.com.au
Detour
Brisbanes Woolloongabba is much
spoiled with the opening of the
long-awaited DETOUR . The
restaurant itself seemed to take a
detour in getting up and running
( C O C K TA I L ) . C O C K TA I L P R O D U C T S : 1 8 0 6 G O L D C O C K TA I L K I T, $ 14 9 . 9 5 A N D E L E G A N T C O L L I N S
P H O T O G R A P H Y: N I K K I T O ( T W O G O O D ) ; G U Y B A I L E Y ( C O C K TA I L ) . S T Y L I N G : A N I TA J O KO V I C H
after a few heritage rules delayed
renovations. But the wait, it seems,
was worth it as chef Damon Amos
rattles the pans to create a menu
for both omnivores and herbivores.
detourrestaurant.com.au
Kisum
Melbourne is turning Japanese with
the opening of KISU M (pictured
above) in May. The three-level
restaurant on Flinders Lane comes
with incredible knife skills between
Chef Moon, a sushi craftsman
certied in serving fugu (yes, thats
the poisonous blowsh), and Sean
GL A S S $34. 8 0 FOR S IX FROM B ARGEE K .COM . AU
Presland; our premier Japanese
cuisine master. kisume.com.au
Mjlnir
Meaning Thors hammer, M J L N I R
is the Speakeasy Groups (E AU D E
VIE and ROOSEVELT ) newest
venture in Sydneys Redfern. Its
a viking-style carvery and whisky
bar with some 600 versions of the
amber liquor on offer, occupying
a former tobacco factory on
Cleveland Street. Well be hoping
to catch a glimpse of Chris
Hemsworth and his Mjlnir.
 Warm up this winter in Brisbane

MUST DO @larissadening #brisbaneanyday

CHEERS TO ISLAND TIME
SUNSHINE Visitors y from around
the world in search of
With year-round sun and
islands as idyllic as those
a subtropical climate,
on our coastline. Feed
Brisbanes rooftop bars independent galleries
wild dolphins, whale-
are never off limits. Dress
watch and snorkel or
up nice and taste the
kayak around old ship
view from Eleven.
wrecks.
FOLLOW THE HUNGRY FOR AUSTRALIAS WORLD-CLASS CLOSE ESCAPE
ART TRAIL FUN TOP BAR BALLET Twenty minutes from
the CBD, stop for lunch
Within a 1km radius Eat Street is a feast Leather chestereld For the rst time in 15
at paddock-to-plate
there are 14 small, in every sense the couches, rich mahogany, years the Royal Ballet
cafe Wild Canary before
sights, smells, tastes top staff and a library returns to Australia
treating yourself to a spa
to discover between and sounds. The street of whiskey won with two original works
treatment at the lush
Fortitude Valley and food market has just The Gresham top bar that are both exclusive
One Wybellena.
New Farm. reopened and its more awards from Gourmet to Brisbane.
epic than before. Traveller and the
Australian Bar Awards.

Discover more at visitbrisbane.com.au

 SHORTCUTS | Pillow talk

THE FRONT DESK

Niecha Joseph, director of chaos

at QT MELBOURNE shares
her secrets on the best things to
see and do around town while
staying at the boutique hotel
(qthotelsandresorts.com).

THE C AKE SHO P If youre

Glamp it up
Mount Zero Olives, on the cusp of
Grampians National Park, has teamed
up with pop-up camping specialist
on the run, The Cake Shop at
QT Melbourne serves mouth-
watering treats and Five
Senses coffee. Out and about?
Try Dukes Coffee Roasters
onnearby Flinders Lane.

pillow talk Under Sky to create a magical space

under canvas in the olive grove. Each
ve-metre canvas bell tent will be
FEDERATION SQ UA R E QT
Melbourne is near Federation
Square, Melbournes cultural
precinct (NGV, ACMI and
The latest places to SPEND tted out with a queen mattress
and bed base, quality bedding, linen The Arts Centre Melbourne).
Were also a 10-minute cab
A NIGHT, from under the STARS and towels, wooden furnishings,
away from Everfresh Studio in
woven rugs and natural toiletries.
to surrounded by ART. Book a place quick before the camp Collingwood where youll nd
disappears on 7 May. undersky.com.au an urban grafti gallery behind
an unmarked factory door
TIME TO SHOP Try Shag on
A RT I S T S R E T R E AT Chapel Street for vintage nds,
We love this concept: gorgeous properties scattered across or Emporium Melbourne in
Melbourne that you can book through Airbnb, combining the CBD. Youre destined to
ne artwork from the citys galleries with beautiful objects do some damage here, with
and design pieces to create perfect properties for a weekend the largest Australian designer
break . The twist is that pretty much all you can see is precinct in the country.
purchasable online; art lovers will feel like a kid in a candy FOOD A ND D R I N K 1806 is
store. Check in to Microluxes properties in St Kilda and rmly steeped in Melbourne
Fitzroy with a third due to open in the city. micro-luxe.com cocktail culture, and is a bar for
all ages. Late-night haunt Hot
Sauce Laneway Bar has the
best baos in town, and serves

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C H A R L I E K I N RO S S ( U N D E R S K Y )
Japanese/Korean fusion with
a backdrop of 90s throwback
hip-hop and RnB. Heartbreaker
is a place to let your hair
DOWN ON THE FARM down, two blocks from QT
Stay in the heart of the Mudgee Melbourne listen out for the
wine region at the newly renovated rock n roll and look for the
farmhouse at Blue Wren Wines. cherry red neon sign. Rooftop
The boutique homestead has a at QT has the best view of
pared-back yet luxurious ambience Melbournes skyline.
with touches of country charm. The ON TOUR Explore the citys
ve bedrooms have king size beds, underground art scene with
and theres a pool and private gardens. QT Melbournes Laneway Art
Youll also get a tasting at the winerys Tour Package in partnership
cellar door. bluewrenwines.com.au with Blender Studios.

30 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M

Stay another day
Never assume the Sydney CBD is always just business; a surprisingly
wide array of pleasures await just one more day away.
ITS FRIDAY in Sydney. Business is all wrapped
up. Time to check out of your hotel and head
home, right? But theres something about
the tone of the city thats changing as the
afternoon sun lengthens over the harbour

is quickening. Want to know what you can
get up to if you hang around, and see what
the weekend brings?
GOOD MORNING!
During the week, caffeine-loving workers can
turn a CBD cafe to mayhem, but the weekend

Italian produce, Fratelli Fresh, is serving not
only a great cup of Lavazza every weekend

lazy paces from the Swissotel Sydney, but can
change your order to a morning Bloody Mary
or Mimosa if you prefer. Breakfast dishes such
as ricotta and blueberry pancakes or baked
eggs in sugo are too good to rush.
Another weekend staple in Sydney comes
in fragrant form, as yum cha is served Hong
Kong-style as breakfast from 9am at Zilver,
further down in Chinatown. Alternatively,
Graze right out the front of the Museum of
Contemporary Art, enjoying that unbeatable
vista across the harbour from Circular Quay
is also open for brunch on the weekends.
Forget those all-too-quick weekday scrambles;
this is how you start a real Sydney day.
SHOP UNTIL YOU NAP
Come the weekend, Sydneys newly
refurbished Pitt Street Mall is further
transformed from a sea of suits to more
leisurely pursuits. From the intricate stained
glass and tiles of the Victorian-style Strand
 HIGH TEA AND HIGH TIMES

 Yawn. Stretch. Have a cup of tea or a glass

 of Laurent-Perrier Champagne. Enjoy as many
on Elizabeth Street to the newer imports on
AT PROMOTION | Swissotel
F r o m t o p l e f t : Brunch with a view
at the Museum of Contemporary Art; An
executive suite at Swissotel Sydney; Shop in
style at the beautiful Strand Arcade.
and chocolate-dipped treats as your heart
desires at Swissotels buffet high tea. Its
reason enough to stay on a little longer, since
it only runs on Saturday and Sunday. Plus, a
Champers in the afternoon lends itself to a
session admiring your new purchases back in
your room, picking out something fabulous to
wear, and getting ready for the evening.
SMALL (AND NOT-SO-SMALL) BARS
Small bars are still a relatively recent
addition to the Sydney scene: young, fresh
and having a ball in the citys CBD. Check out
sewing-obsessed Stitch, cosy Grandmas Bar
or Uncle Mings, complete with Chinese teapot
the scene (H&M, Sephora, Forever 21), there is cocktails. Meanwhile Mojo Record Bar is
room to browse. Try, savour and perhaps give literally out the back of a record store, so
your credit card a little workout in the CBD. youd better believe the musics good. On
Its not far to carry those bags to your room Saturday nights, though, go big the Ibiza
at the Swissotel, and theres no reason why club Pacha takes over the Ivy on George Street
a small siesta isnt in order, either. with circus performers hanging from the
ceilings, burlesque ladies waving their

joint with beats and a beaming crowd. Thank
goodness you have a late check-out tomorrow.
rainbow-hued macarons, cream-laden scones To book, visit swissotel.com/hotels/sydney
 SHORTCUTS | Travel trends

making memories
DIGITAL DEVICES
allow us to CAPTURE our
movements like never before,
but how does this IMPACT
our TRAVEL MEMORIES?
KATE SYMONS nds out.

IF A TREE FALLS WHILE you are on holiday, but you dont post
any proof, did it really happen?
Its the philosophical question of our time, although there are
plenty who arent pondering it. Theyre too busy choosing a lter,
adjusting the saturation and curating the wittiest hashtags.
Yet, for every hashtag-heavy holidaymaker, theres a travel
romantic dismissing the practice as an unnecessary distraction,
pointless or even narcissistic. Different though they may be,
both types of traveller share a common objective: to capture
unforgettable memories. Through our recollections, the joy of
travel can linger long after we return. Furthermore, the nostalgia
of past experiences can help concoct future adventures.
But whos going about it the right way? Neuroscientist Dr
Despina Ganella, who specialises in emotional memory, suggests
the cynics may be right; that technology could be hindering
our memory retention. Our work in neuroscience tells us that
attention is critical to the formation of memories, says Dr
Ganella, a postdoctoral research fellow at The Florey Institute
of Neuroscience and Mental Health in Melbourne. If your full
attention is on [the experience] youre more likely to form a proper
memory, whereas if your attention is divided, there might only be
the potential for a fuzzy memory to form.
Dr Ganella points to a 2013 study, conducted by psychological
scientist Dr Linda A Henkel, which shows people had worse
memories of objects if they took photos of them. For the study,
participants were led on an art tour, some with cameras, some
without. Those with cameras were instructed to use them at
every turn, snapping photos of each artwork, while the remaining
participants were asked to simply observe you know, like ol times.
Those who took photos remembered fewer objects, details
about the objects and details about where the objects were located.
Henkel described this as a photo-taking impairment effect.
Further discrediting snap-happy travel, Dr Ganella offers
another insight. The camera has also been suggested to act as
a forgetting cue, she says. Research has shown that sometimes
when you know youre going to have access to material later, its like
sending a message to your brain that you can forget it.
Of course, there is much more to the digitisation of travel than
camera phones and photo-sharing apps. Status updates are the new
telegrams, emails have replaced postcards and journals have been
trumped by a world-wide-web worth of travel blogs. The intangible
nature of many modern-day replacements means youre likely
creating more eeting memories than enduring ones. Plus, the
physical act of writing has been proven to facilitate recall far
better than its keyboard counterpart.
Although she personally subscribes to the popular live in the
moment mantra, Dr Ganella admits she doesnt always lead by
example. She says the travel journal she updated so meticulously
on holiday as a 22-year-old still triggers vivid memories, whereas
countless photos taken on digital journeys rarely get a second look.
Dr Ganella recalls a simpler time when a roll of lm meant
employing diligence to make the most of those 24 opportunities.
By way of slide nights and albums, those photos would not only stir
memories, but also help keep them intact over time. Memories
occur when one neuron is talking to another, she explains. At
the start its an electrical connection, but that connection is
strengthened by being accessed repeatedly and it forms a strong
memory that is stored more long-term. [Nowadays] people spend
less time looking at photos because the sheer volume is a deterrent.
Are you making memories or just collecting them? Dr Ganella
fears that for many travellers, its the latter. You want to be
living your experiences, she says. Technology has its place and
is amazing [but] its the whole mindfulness thing being present,
[experiencing] the sounds, the smells, the tastes.
There is one consideration that perhaps matters most: what
works for you? Memories may hold rm, fade or evolve over time,
but if theyre still being enjoyed, theyre serving a meaningful
purpose. And thats what makes our holidays #unforgettable.

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 33
l iz a rd isl a n d. co m . a u 1800 837 193
 SHORTCUTS | Style seeker
1 2
16

15
6
4

5
14

plush and luxe

8
SWITCH SEASONS in style with TACTILE
textures and AUTUMNAL tones.
1. Bring soothing hues to your walls with the Salty Fields PRINT by Olive
et Oriel, $39.95. cranmorehome.com.au 2. Dip a toe or two in Bubblegum
and Forest NAIL POLISH, $20 each. kesterblack.com 3. OK, so theyre a
bit out of the realm of reality, but we can dream of these Oscar De La
Renta Swarovski crystal EARRINGS, $682. net-a-porter.com 4. Mix a drink
in this WHISKY SET Mad Men-style, $120. au.amara.com 5. This Zac Posen
HANDBAG is an autumnal must-have, $775. zacposen.com 6. Add some
feminine hues with this glam statement SOFA, $799. arrohome.com
7. This glass-top SIDE TABLE is one reason we cant get enough of Kmart
right now, $29. kmart.com.au 8. Learn how to keep our leafy friends alive
with LIVING WITH PLANTS by Sophie Lee, $29.99. hardiegrant.com 9. Pour
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from this golden JUG to feel richer than you are, $235. au.amara.com
10. Light up indoors with these Tom Dixon CANDLE HOLDERS, from $245.
au.amara.com 11. The Aloft OTTOMAN will give your feet a luxe spot to
rest, $649. arrohome.com 12. Bring a little bit of 80s glam to your bedside
with the Maxima LAMP, $239. rawluxe.com.au 13. Choose the Tropicale
Slinky DRESS when youre ready to slip into something more comfortable,
$495. zimmermannwear.com 14. Cosy up to a Mongolian sheepskin
CUSHION, $119. rawluxe.com.au 15. These cotton PLACEMATS are ideal for
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12 rose is this EAU DE PARFUM Portraits The Coveted Duchess Rose by
Penhaligons, $369. libertineparfumerie.com.au

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 35
 SHORTCUTS
| On the menu

I L L U S T R AT I O N : M I K E R O S S I
 C A M P FI R E C U I S I N E
Seasoned camp cook RACHEL BARTHOLOMEUSZ
shares her TIPS on making LIGHT WORK of good meals
in the GREAT OUTDOORS.
I HAVE NEVER UNDERSTOOD why camping is
synonymous with bad food. Growing up, my favourite
mealwas the one my family always ate on the rst night
ofour annual camping trip. A few days before we set off,
Mum would prepare the smore. Not smore, the North
American marshmallow dessert, but the Sri Lankan slow-
cooked beef variety, which is equally at home arounda
campre. A local take on the European beef pot roast,
thispickled and curried hunk of meat is perfect for taking
onlong trips. The marinade acts as a preservative, and the
dish improves with a few days rest.
After setting up our tent we would warm the smore, the
smell of spices wafting over the other campers. The
ubiquitous campground kids on BMX bikes would turn up
their noses at its pungency while our mouths watered in
anticipation of the fall-apart meat, of mopping up that
gravy with fresh bread bought from a small town bakery.
Needless to say, no one eats trail mix for dinner on my
watch. Holidays usually revolve around eating good food,
and camping doesnt have to be an exception.
I like to approach a camping meal like a MasterChef
mystery box challenge, but instead of a ticking clock and
George Calombaris breathing down your neck, theres a
quickly setting sun. Necessity forces creativity; new avours
come together simply because theyre swimming in the
bottom of your esky. And the break from a kitchen full of
gadgets is a reminder of just how little you need to cook a
great dinner. Here are my tips for being a better camp cook.
BRING THE BASICS You dont need a whole lot of equipment,
but if youre camping with a car then an esky, a portable gas
cooker, a saucepan, a frying pan, a sharp knife, a wooden
spoon, a chopping board and a can opener are a good place
to start. A steamer basket that doubles as a strainer is really
useful, and a stovetop coffee pot is a wonderful luxury.
Ziplock bags are also incredibly handy for bringing small
amounts of ingredients, and storing leftovers.
THE PAN TRY Olive oil, salt and pepper, fresh garlic and
ginger, dried chilli akes, soy sauce, balsamic vinegar and
a small selection of dried spices are my essentials. Beyond
that, consider what you like to cook and pack ingredients
that can be used in multiple ways, across cuisines, and are
hardy carrots, for instance. Space is usually at a premium,
so think smart buy a fresh chilli, rather than carrying a
bottle of chilli sauce. Wraps can be eaten for lunch, used
as tortillas, to substitute naan and mop up curry sauce, or
used as pita for Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes.
L O O K TO OT HER C U L T U RES Every culture has its own
camping foods, so if youre stuck for inspiration, look
beyond your own backyard. Korean campers take over
public barbecues to grill meats they then dip in sauces and
wrap in lettuce leaves with kimchi. Middle Eastern families
will often arrive with a container lled with marinated
meat to cook over coals and eat with salad and atbreads.
Taiwanese friends take sticky rice parcels wrapped in lotus
leaves on hikes, and we have Americans to thank for cooler
corn cobs of corn cooked in an esky by pouring boiling
water over the top, and closing the lid for half an hour.
P L A N A HEA D ( I F YO U C A N B E B OT HERED) Sauces, stews or
curries made ahead of time and frozen in ziplock bags can
double as ice bricks, and make excellent reheats. If that all
sounds too soccer mum for your liking, a simple curry
paste or a pesto, a spice mix or a pickle made at home can
have multiple uses and will make light work of impressive
camping meals.
PA C K A S A L A M I A salami and a large wedge of hard cheese
such as parmesan are indispensable. Both keep well, and
can be eaten as a snack, sliced on sandwiches, or added
to pastas, sauces or any dish that needs a savoury boost.
The salami can also be fried and rendered for its fat.
K EEP I T S I M P L E With limited burners at your disposal,
one-pot dishes will often form the bulk of your camping
repertoire a pot of spicy mussels, for instance, is no
harder to make indoors or out. Pasta is another camping
classic, but getting it al dente can be hard on a camping
stove. Opt for short pastas such as penne that are easier
to cook in a smaller saucepan of water.
GET I NS P I RED B Y L O C A L P RO DU C E The secret to good,
simple food, whether camping or otherwise, is to use good
produce. Find the regional speciality, and eat it. If youre
driving through a wine region, youre obliged to drink good
wine from a tin mug and eat cheese for dinner. Buy roadside
fruit for breakfast, or learn how to shuck fresh oysters.
A T I NNI E A DAY Cooking with a drink in hand is a crucial
element of camping, and a tinnie will prove your best
friend: add a splash of beer whenever youd normally use
wine in a dish, such as deglazing a pan for a stir-fry, or in a
pasta sauce. And theres no reason you should feel limited
to a tinnie: bring the makings of a negroni cocktail or a
bottle of whisky if you really want to up the ante.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 37

BYGONE
BOHEMIAN
IMAGINE A NARROW laneway in the
heart of a city crammed full of all things
cosmopolitan and countercultural: from
artists studios, shoe box theatres and record
stores to Italian coffee houses and shops
selling Parisian fashions or Scandinavian-
inspired furniture. A meeting point for
like-minded people interested in art and
culture and life beyond their horizons.
A slice of Montmartre? Of Melbourne,
perhaps?More surprising would be to
imagineit tucked in the middle of Sydneys
CBD: cutting a straight line between the
now-modern thoroughfares of Castlereagh
and Pitt Streets, and parallel to Martin Place.
But for almost a century until the 1970s,
Rowe Street thrived here: a meeting ground
for Sydneys bohemians, and the odd famous
visitor with the iconic Hotel Australia at
one end and the Theatre Royal nearby.
38 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHORTCUTS | Rewind
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Looking down Rowe
Street in 1929; Hotel Australia, viewed here from
Castlereagh Street in 1918, stood at one end of the
laneway; Life on Rowe Street circa 1950, including
French milliner Henriette Lamottes store at number 27.
The strips heyday was experienced
in the 50s and 60s when, following the
Second World War, an inux of European
immigrants opened shops, galleries and
cafes and brought in their wake new cultural
experiences. A new perspective on how to
dress, furnish your home or what to read,
says Dr Nicola Teffer.
Nicola is the curator of Demolished Sydney,
an exhibition at the Museum of Sydney
that explores the histories of buildings past.
Rowe Street is one of 13 sites featured and
Nicola remembers rst nding out about
it while curating an exhibition on Sydneys
coffee drinking history: I discovered that,
for a few years in the late 1940s, Rowe Street
wasthe home of the Lincoln Inn, a basement
coffee lounge where art students, musicians
and bohemians gathered to chain smoke
and drink dreadful coffee, she says. It was
known as the Stinkin Lincoln, and must
have been quite an extraordinary place in
conservative post-war Sydney. Rowe Street
was, says Nicola, a place where Sydneysiders
could have a kind of European experience
inan otherwise very British city.
It was demolished, along with Hotel
Australia and the Theatre Royal, in the
early70s to make way for the MLC Centre
and plaza: A beautiful and purely modernist
A pocket of
COSMOPOLITAN
BOHEMIA once
ourished in a Sydney
laneway. IMOGEN
EVESON takes a stroll
down ROWE STREET.
skyscraper and pedestrian precinct that set
Sydney on its way to becoming the global
P H OTO G R A P H Y: CO U RT E S Y O F T H E S TAT E L I B R A RY O F N S W (195 0); CO U RT E S Y
O F T H E C I T Y O F S Y D N E Y A RC H I V E S (19 29); CO U RT E S Y O F T H E S TAT E L I B R A RY
skyscraper city it is today, says Nicola.
Rowe Street was one of Sydneys many
charming precincts sacriced for a modern
future. A short stretch of Rowe Street still
exists today; but its larger-than-life past
lives on anecdotally and in the Powerhouse
Museums dedicated archive: a collection
of artefacts and oral histories.
Many colourful tales persist: like that
of artist Carl Plate, who ran the Notanda
Gallery in Rowe Street for almost 40
years. He was considered to be highly
unconventional because, not only did he
V I C TO R I A (AU S T R A L I A H OT E L)
weargreen shirts, he had a beard! says
Nicola. He seemed to have been excused
these shocking sartorial transgressions
because he was an artist. It gave me a very
clear idea of just how conservative Australia
was at the time, and how much it needed
places like Rowe Street to shake it up.
Demolished Sydney runs at the Museum of Sydney
until 17 April; sydneylivingmuseums.com.au
 AT PROMOTION | ATAS

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Enter an d you coul d win an

8-DAY V IETNA M A ND
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A BOUT A PT
APT is Australias premier touring company and has been Australian family-owned for 90 years.
We are pleased to be able to share our familys passion for this part of the world with you.
Our expertise will ensure that your holiday experience is second to none.
A B O U T ATA S
Travel agencies that bear the ATAS symbol are nationally accredited. For peace of mind
always look for the ATAS symbol to ensure your travel is booked with a reputable,
professional and qualied travel business.

H OW T O E N T E R
Mail the attached sur vey form or Go online to
internationaltraveller.com/travel-agency-of-the-year-2017

Terms and conditions: for your entry to be eligible, your voted travel agent must be
an ATAS-accredited travel agent. Find more information at atas.com.au
Prize terms and conditions are online at internationaltraveller.com/terms-and-conditions

40 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 PEOPL ES CHOICE
| T R AV E L A G E N C Y O F T H E Y E A R |
nomination entry form
TO ENTER, S IMPLY COMPLETE THE SURVEY A ND MA IL IT TO:
P EO P LES CHOICE TRAVEL AGENCY OF THE YEA R
R E P LY PA I D 85483, S U ITE 101, 15 BELVO IR S TR EET, SURRY HILLS, NSW 2010 (NO STA MP REQUIRED IF POSTED IN AUST R A L I A )

Name your favourite travel agency (store name and location) ...............................................................................................................................................

..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
To win the APT holiday worth $7590 you need to answer this question

On a scale of 1 to 5 (where 1 is no inuence and 5 is strongly inuenced), how much did the following affect your choice of destination when
you were planning a holiday of ve days or more?

An article in print ...................................................................................................................................................................... 1 2 3 4 5

An online article ......................................................................................................................................................................... 1 2 3 4 5

My travel agent ........................................................................................................................................................................... 1 2 3 4 5

A TV show .................................................................................................................................................................................. 1 2 3 4 5

Official destination/tour or hotel website ............................................................................................................................. 1 2 3 4 5

A movie ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 1 2 3 4 5

Found a great deal online .......................................................................................................................................................... 1 2 3 4 5

Something I saw on social media ............................................................................................................................................. 1 2 3 4 5

Recommended by a friend ........................................................................................................................................................ 1 2 3 4 5

It was always on my bucket list ................................................................................................................................................ 1 2 3 4 5

TripAdvisor ................................................................................................................................................................................ 1 2 3 4 5

Travel brochure .......................................................................................................................................................................... 1 2 3 4 5

A video online ............................................................................................................................................................................. 1 2 3 4 5

A book I read .............................................................................................................................................................................. 1 2 3 4 5

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YOUR DETAILS ( S O WE C AN NOTIF Y YO U IF YOU W IN)

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animal magic
AUSTRALIAN SPAS are trotting the line between
WEIRD and WONDERFUL with treatments
incorporating horses, space-age pods and baths good
enough to drink, nds CELESTE MITCHELL.

42 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M

JACK AND I ARE getting fairly intimate.
My chest is pressed against his muscular
shoulder; I try to synchronise the rise and
fall of our breath. I open my eyes and take
in every part of his neck, his hair, running
my hand down his back. But he knows Im
not really into it, with a quick jerk he moves
away. Out of reach. What were you thinking
about just then? Jacks trainer Megan breaks
into my consciousness.
Its not that were being watched thats off-
putting. Ive been trying to learn to meditate
for the past year, being told the mind is like
a puppy you need to train. Apparently mine
is a very naughty puppy. The analogy likens
your thoughts to the puppys penchant to
wander, or chew its lead (or bark like mad),
but its up to you to rein it back in. To calm
it like Cesar Millan calms a dachshund.
Never has the metaphor been so apt
for me as right now, as Im standing in an
arena at Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat with
Here are some more out- there t re at m e nt s wit h
a d i ffe re n c e to detox your body a nd bra in.
VINOTHERAPY
Clinging to research that affirms red
wine is connected to good health? Why
not marinate in it? At Lost World Spa at
OReillys Rainforest Retreat in the Gold
Coast Hinterland, a three-hour vinotherapy
treatment awaits. You may feel like a side
of beef as you soak in the warm tub with a
bottle of shiraz poured in, but after a full-
body exfoliation and red grape and clay body
wrap to infuse those antioxidants, you can
expect to feel like a younger, tighter version
of you. oreillys.com.au
I L L U S T R AT I O N : M I K E R O S S I
SHORTCUTS | Spa treatments
a handsome horse named Jack. This is
meditation on an entirely different level.
Theres nowhere to hide from this wise soul
whose bare instincts can hold a mirror up to
my headspace, and whose every whinny or
foot stomp is telling.
Admittedly, I nd it hard to shake off the
image of what I must look like crouching
down in front of Jack, trying to relax enough
for him to bring his nose down to touch my
head. Ive tried alternative therapies before,
but this really takes the apple.
Megan developed the Equine Assisted
Meditation sessions two-and-a-half years
ago after noticing the sense of calmness that
overcame her when she spent time with the
horses at the Gold Coast Hinterland retreat.
Theyre very wary if we have our walls
up, or if our communication isnt clear they
wont do things, she says. So they show us
how to connect and develop a rapport so
we can then play together. I think what all
A SHOWER OF SOUND
In the Byron Hinterland, chakra cleansing,
crystal healing and monk-inspired spa
therapies are as easy to come by as almond
milk on menus. At Gaia Retreat & Spa, you
can join a group Sound Meditation (or book
a one-on-one) to harmonise your bodily
frequencies. Sound weird? It feels a little out
there, too, when youre led through a guided
meditation then immersed in a shower of
utes, Tibetan bowls, and didgeridoo tones.
This hypnotic experience is designed to
release anxiety, charge the brain and give
you razor-sharp clarity. gaiaretreat.com.au
of us truly desire in life is to feel connected
to something or someone, and then to have
a really healthy way of communicating and
expressing ourselves. Equine meditation
is about getting guests to slow down and
understand what the monkey up here can
do [pointing at her head] it can either be
friend or foe. But in that moment, when this
gets busy, I notice the horses just walk off.
After my initial trepidation wears off
and I realise my entire goal for this hour is
pretty simple to be present and relax Jack
seems more at ease. He likes you, Megan
comments. He doesnt usually like anyone
touching his face.
By the end, using only my breath and the
slightest inclination that I might take a step
forward, Jack and I are prancing around the
ring together. Then, with a deliberate exhale,
I stop him in his tracks. Just like that.
Forget about the puppy; Ive just trained
my mind to be a stallion. gwinganna.com
SENSORY DEPRIVATION
On the Sunshine Coast, The Float Space
has three space-age pods loaded with 500
kilograms of Epsom salts in 25 centimetres
of water, designed to erase the stresses of the
outside world, so the bodys parasympathetic
response can kick in. One hour in the pod is
said to be equivalent to four-to-eight hours
of deep sleep. theoatspace.com.au
CHAMPAGNE SCRUB
Perhaps not so much weird as
mouth-watering, the Signature
Vino Spa Ritual at Spicers
Vineyards Estate in the Hunter
Valley kicks off with a pink
Champagne scrub followed
with a cocoa butter body wrap,
choc mousse and cacao nib face
scrub, and a facial infusion that
contains 1000 milligrams of
freeze-dried shiraz. Youll be
dewier than morning frost on
the vines. spicersretreats.com


W E LC O M E TO F L I N D E R S L A N E ,
THE HEART OF MELBOURNE

@adelphi_hotel @omnom_dessertbar
facebook.com/adelphi.hotel.melbourne
facebook.com/omnomkitchendessertbar
WEEKENDS
freds . wildower . elements of byron . orange . northbridge

W I L D F L OWER
An entre of beetroot cooked
in jarrah ash, goats curd
and raspberry juice is one
example of this Perth ne
diners inventive way with
indigenous bush foods.
Turn to page 48 for more.
 WEEKENDS | Reviews

fr esh DEAR RESTAURATEURS, HUMOUR ME a little. From

now on, lets assume that we diners all know your menu is
supposed to be produce-driven with ingredients sourced
locally and that the chef is inspired by the seasons. I do love
how your ultra-sincere waitstaff are so enamoured by Chef

faith
that their starry-eyed explanations of the menu verge on
the evangelical. But, please, dont have them utter the words
designed to share followed by a prescription of exactly how
many dishes should be taken in one sitting, lest I launch my
Clair De Lune oyster shells at their linen-aproned chests.
I know this makes me sound like the Grinch who siphoned
the marrow of joy from the very bones of Sunday lunch, but so
Fatigued by restaurant BUZZ TERMS, often are the words sustainably sourced and produce-driven
LARA PICONE visits Sydneys hotly uttered that Ive lost all conviction in their validity. Dont get
me wrong, I want to believe. But my faith has been shaken by
anticipated new restaurant, Freds, to see if too many limp leeks and accid sh llets tarted up as specials.
Danielle Alvarezs PRODUCE-DRIVEN, For a while Id been harbouring this bleak view like an
unpopular political opinion; only feeling emboldened to
SEASONAL menu can reset the dial. express it around like minds. It pouted in bad temper behind
me as I sat down to lunch at Merivales Freds in Sydneys
Paddington. But something remarkable happened in chef

All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way so we experience exactly what you would.

46 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 DETAILS
The Jawoyn People invite you to their land to
F RED S
experience, explore and appreciate the ancient
380 Oxford Street,
wonders of Nitmiluk National Park, Katherine NT.
Paddington, NSW;
merivale.com.au/freds
Verdict: Solid, unfussy dining in a
kitchen you wish was your own.
Score:
We rated: Produce that is
what it says its going to
be. Promises delivered.
CLOCKWISE FROM Faithrestored.
LEFT: Freds, in Wed change: There wasnt a
Paddington, was two years lot of atmosphere in the front
inthe making; Its dining
room taps into your French bar where we had a drink
provincial styling goals; before being seated. With
Take a seat at the front the large Charlie Parkers
bar,or head downstairs to bar luring evening drinkers
speakeasy Charlie Parkers;
Dishes on the daily-changing downstairs, it seems this
menu are cooked over re. front area lacks purpose. Adventure
Helicopter Tours . Gorge Cruises
Danielle Alvarezs Pinterest-worthy open kitchen. Faith was
restored one morsel at a time.
Cultural Safaris . Canoe Hire
You cant hide in a kitchen like that. Diners eat in the midst Cutta Cutta Caves
of the action. Some even perch at work benches as if theyre
hanging out in a mates kitchen for Tuesday night book club. Accommodation
From my seat facing the open hearth and wood-re oven,
I watch plump zucchini being sliced in meditative strokes.
Cicada Lodge . Chalets
I see leaves plucked from stems and lamb racks licked by Nitmiluk NT Campground
ames. In this room doing its best (and succeeding) to tap into Permanent Tents
your French provincial styling goals, you can have your faith
restored in paddock to plate. By mains, I was born again.
Reinsertion into the seasonal produce dream began with
wood-oven squid ink with curry leaf, celery and nger lime.
Lightly slicked with the glossy black ink, the squid was the right
measure of resistant and soft, a gentle hint of smokiness serving
to amplify, not disguise. Having remarkably made a decision
unassisted by our waiter to share mains, I wasnt disappointed
by their generous size or wholesome simplicity. The crispy
chicken with white bean pure didnt mess with convention,
the avours blending as they should, the pure lusciously
creamy and the chicken skin as sinful as youd expect. Same
goes for the grilled Moorlands lamb; a piece of quality meat
that makes you wish the dining manners of Henry VIII were
acceptable in polite society. The blood plum tart tasted like a
windowsill-cooled treat from a fairy tale.
If youre into food that borders on the scientic, Freds
may fail to impress. But having spent four years at Berkeley,
Californias most lauded restaurant, Chez Panisse, Alvarez
wears her chef whites with condence, which translates to For Bookings Contact
unfussy compositions on the plate. If youve had enough of phone: 1300 146 743
gritting your teeth through descriptions of seasonal, local
menus, come to Alvarezs kitchen for a restoration of faith. reservations@nitmiluktours.com.au
www.nitmiluktours.com.au
Jawoyn - Sharing Our Country
 WEEKENDS | Reviews

local
Perched on the PERTH
HOTEL declared the
n ative
second best in the world,
can WILDFLOWER meet
expectations? FLEUR
BAINGER nds out.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA LIKES TO do
things differently from the other two-thirds of the
country. It looks to Asia, rather than the eastern
seaboard, often talks of secession and refuses to join
in with daylight savings. It has a proud, deant edge.
Wildower, a ne diner encapsulated in a glass cube
atop the lauded COMO the Treasury hotel, is as
individual as its homeland. But where WA can be
brash and brazen, Wildower is elegant and rened.
Take the food. Diced emu blackened by onion
ash. Rare marron elevated with river-foraged
greens. Plump Albany mussels on bubbled ice plant.
You simply dont see such things elsewhere.
The menu is based on the indigenous Noongar
calendars six seasons and the ingredients, clearly,
have a distinctly western trademark. Executive
chef Jed Gerrard, who grew up in country WA
but honed his talent at restaurants including two
Michelin-starred SaQuaNa in France and Black
All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way so we experience exactly what you would.
by Ezard in Sydney, has set out to create a avour CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
thatis typically WA; and hes nailing it. LEFT: Finely crafted canaps;
Wildower is set in a glass cube at
So much so that the surrounds blur into the
COMO the Treasury; Jed Gerrard
background. Seal pup-grey velvet chairs on white uses ingredients native to WA.
marble oors meet a moody wallpaper scene of
rain-swollen clouds and rod-straight karri trees,
illuminated by silvery sunlight. Opposite, oor-to- DETAILS
ceiling windows reveal Perths placid Swan River
stretching to its southern banks. Its captivating.
Wildower has a reserved, special-occasion-feel W ILDFLOW ER
that suits small, well-heeled tables. Theres a 15- 1 Cathedral Avenue, Perth,
page wine list and innovative cocktails blending WA; wildowerperth.com.au
things like eucalyptus essence and Geraldton wax. Verdict: The way in which
The food follows suit. Naked marron tail nudges WAsindigenous bush foods
both a pool of sea parsley oil, and a salad of sea are presented in such a
fern, barilla and crunchy samphire topped with tart considered, contemporary
nger lime. Dehydrated saltbush and chive dust manner cant help but impress.
bring a savoury edge to the creamy, brown butter Score:
emulsion, which Id like to slather on toast for the We rated: A place that
rest of my life. Thats just one entre. On another embraces a dening West
plate, white onion wheels contain deeply smoky Australian style; in its
emu cooked on WA jarrah coals. nativeingredient selection,
Intricacy continues in the mains. Quandong itsinventive avour
halves match pillowy, dry-aged duck with textbook combinations and its
crispy skin. Red endive balances the bush peachs awlesspresentation.
sweetness. Then, red emperor basted in seaweed Wed change: Its a shame the
butter is freshened by the pop of dune succulents list-style menu descriptions
and fermented cucumber, and adorned with a squid givelittle insight into the
ink net. A custard nale is soaked in bitter pollen experience that awaits.
syrup made from honey harvested on the rooftop. Notes: All this artistry doesnt
It goes without saying that everything is come cheap: mains hover
phenomenal. Which is perhaps the next story WA around $48, entres $33,
will be telling, as it continues to run its own race. sides $14 and desserts $24.
Cocktails are $20$28. But
you get what you pay for.

48 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 TM

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 WEEKENDS | Reviews

IN
YOUR
ELEMENTLUSH and SERENE, I AM DOING SQUAT JUMPS on the beach sand between
my toes, salty sweat on my brow when I am surprised by the
with a show-stealing most unlikely of visitors.
The scenario is already pretty unlikely. I rarely take exercise
pool to rival the beach, on holiday with me, and I have never been a morning person,
ELEMENTS OF but theres something about staying just metres from Byron
Bays Belongil Beach that lures me to sweat with the sunrise.
BYRON adds a little My guest is of the equine variety; an absolute beauty, she
more barefoot luxury takes my mind off my burning quadriceps. It is a magic
moment, the kind that staff at Elements of Byron strives to
to the bay. KATE create. The beast trots past, the rider is an instructor, in fact;
beach horse riding is just one of the activities on offer.
SYMONS explores. Six years in the making, Elements of Byron is a $100 CLOCKWISE FROM
million beachfront resort located just north of the Byron Bay TOP LEFT: Elements
township. The retreat opened in February 2016 and has been has a stylish design, eco
values and luxury appeal;
lauded for its design, eco values and luxury appeal. The award- Sleep in serene surrounds;
winning design is immediately apparent in the main pavilion: In one of 103 private
relaxed and open, the outdoors are invited in, while blown villas; Lounge at the
glasswork and a striking huge copper sculpture hang overhead. resorts lagoon pool and
next-door Belongil Beach;
With the vegetation in its infancy, the short trip from the And explore Byrons other
pavilion to our room is underwhelming and a friend comments beaches, such as Wategos.
that it feels like school camp. It should be noted that the site
has been replenished with more than 65,000 native trees and

All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way so we experience exactly what you would.

50 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 DETAILS

ELEMENTS O F BYRO N
144 Bayshore Drive,
Byron Bay, NSW;
elementsofbyron.com.au
Verdict: Great for a little
barefoot luxury.
Score:
We rated: That pool. We could
hang out there all day and
we did.
Wed change: The absence of
a shuttle service to town. Its
not a huge trip, but just one
morning and one late
afternoon option would
be a handy addition.
Notes: We paid $410 per
night for a Botanica Villa.

plants an impressive effort. Still, I look forward to returning

when the greenery is lush, just like the rest of the resort.
Speaking of lush, Elements boasts 103 private villas dotted
P H O T O G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y ( A L L E X C E P T V I L L A I N T E R I O R )

across 22 hectares and ours is a serene space that begs to be

lounged in. Crisp white bed linens, blond wood and textural
touches in shades of green help complement the natural
environment; an effort that is mimicked throughout the resort.
The jewel in Elements crown, though, is the lagoon
pool. Surrounded by bures, settees and hanging lounges, it
accommodates all pool-going types and led me to reject the
beachside lounges altogether.
Indeed, Elements makes it hard to nd an excuse to set foot
outside its connes. But while Graze restaurant is good I
enjoyed the continental breakfast included with the room rate,
and the Byron ceviche of snapper and prawn is exceptional
one dinner visit was enough; the Byron hinterland has plenty
of essential places to dine. As for Osprey Spa, Ill call more
than a week in advance next time to avoid disappointment.
Elements of Byron wasnt on my radar, but my go-to haunt
was booked out. And while I was reluctant to nd an alternative,
thankfully it proved to be a more than worthy challenger.

tals
Campervan. 4WD. Car Ren

IT MUST BE TOUGH keeping pace with
the rule-breaking whippersnappers of the hotel
world. Theyre shaking things up with funky
hangout spaces, desk-free welcomes, designer-
partnered uniforms and baristas on standby.
If youre into that kind of thing (and I am) then
a conventional hotel experience, while altogether
satisfactory, becomes a little lacklustre.
Perths new Peppers Kings Square Hotel the
brands entry into Western Australia teeters
between the two. It has some chic touches: blue
neon lighting ripples on the 17-storey-high
frontage by night (its Australias tallest
prefabricated, modular hotel); the welcome desk
is an extension of the espresso-machine-equipped
bar; polished concrete columns spear the lobby,
with rose gold mesh shades and matching chairs
lining the cafe-restaurant. But the hotel sticks
with tradition via a 10am check-out and rooms
in unadventurous grey tones. Staff, while
friendly, are as perfunctory as their uniforms.
I park in front theres a handy ve-minute bay
for valet parking and see luggage carts outside,
but no one comes to assist me. At check-in, Im
asked for photo ID to conrm I match the name
on the booking, which feels a bit airport.
I grab a free newspaper and enter the elevators
down a corridor thats as bland as the entrance
is interesting. Ive booked an Executive Room
because they score better views: mine is on the
13th oor a superstitious number many hotels
skip. Handmade chocolates, free bottled water,
pod coffee and giant windows that look out to
the metropolis greet me.
I hit Stage Bar & Kitchen for a decent
dinner of international share plates, but wish
All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way so we experience exactly what you would.
52 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
WEEKENDS | Reviews
CON V ENTIONA L
WISDOM
FLEUR BAINGER checks
in to the rst PEPPERS
property in WA to nd a
hotel STRIVING to break
WITH TRADITION.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Brass
touches and polished concrete in the cafe-restaurant;
Artful styling; The spacious Executive Room.
DETAILS
Id walked a few streets to sharper venues. The PEPPERS KINGS SQUA R E H OT E L
hotels biggest asset location might be the 621 Wellington Street, Perth, WA;
restaurants curse. If I had tickets to see Bruce peppers.com.au/kings-square
Springsteen at the new Perth Arena, this is Verdict: Prime city spot for those
where Id stay. Ditto, if I was working at the wanting quiet while still being
new Kings Square development across the road, central. Its a fairly as-youd-expect
shopping at luxury fashion strip, Kings Street, or hotel offering, with shiny new
roaming the shopping malls an easy 600-metre nishes and some arty ourishes.
stroll away. It gives the hotel broad suitability. Score:
Back in my room, the downsides are minor: We rated: The launch pad location
no robes, the hairdryer is hidden in the wardrobe to the citys hip northern side.
instead of the schmick bathroom, and Im Wed change: The ground oor
charged $10 for my baby cot, without warning. elevator access feels like the
I read that the free wi- is the fastest to be back of house operations, which
installed in a Perth hotel, and settle in for an is jarring after the snazzy
iView session. My king-size bed is plumped with bar-reception.
shiny new velvet cushions and pudgy stretch Notes: An Executive Room with
pillows. The linen is silky, and I wish Id slipped city views booked as a Peppers
under the covers sooner. Indeed, it turns out exclusive cost $179 plus credit
that it doesnt really matter how conventional card charges. Valet parking costs
a hotel is when the bed is this good. an extra $38; breakfast is an
additional $20 if pre-booked,
or $29 if ordered on the day.
 My Other Address
#AdinaHotels

Stay Longer and Save up to 20%*

adinahotels.com

*Terms and conditions apply.

 WEEKENDS | Orange

FUN, FINE WINE and, of course, excellent food;

a visit to ORANGE in time for TRUFFLE SEASON
is a chance to join a big BACCHANALIAN PARTY.

WORDS LARA PICONE

orange fever

P H O T O G R A P H Y: L A R A P I C O N E ( A L L E X C E P T P H I L I P S H AW C E L L A R D O O R
O N O P P O S I T E PAG E )

54 AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM
 CLOCKWISE BAILEY IS A LADY SLAYER. Tonight is no exception;
FROM LEFT: women in their fur stoles and red pouts cant help but paw
Bailey sniffs out the
truffles at Borrodell
at him. He indulges them a little, a turn of the head in their
Estate; The black tie direction, perhaps a little smile as he poses insouciantly
and gumboot crowd for their cameras. A jaunty red bow-tie adds a touch of the
begins the hunt; The debonair to his custom black coat and he feels good. He is the
prize truffle weighed
in at 500 grams; The
star of the evening, after all. Even the mark of lupus on his nose
Philip Shaw cellar doesnt detract from his condence, and indeed, his admirers
door. OPPOSITE: dont seem to notice in the slightest. They keep glancing at him
Stop by the Philip expectantly over the top of their sparkling wine glasses, but
Shaw cellar door to
sample some of
Bailey knows he has work to do before he can relax.
Oranges best drops. Its time to begin. This is what he has trained for and as the
winter sun makes its last stand against the march of night,
Bailey leads his devotees under the canopy of the oak trees.
The spoon is plunged His dedicated colleague, Teneka Priestly, explains his work to
back into the the crowd so he can get down to business undisturbed. Some
might scoff at his lack of pedigree, a bitsa, you might say, but
undergrowth, gently Baileys mix of Labrador and Staffy has given him the gumption
to succeed in an industry where lesser dogs and swine have failed.
digging and scooping Success! Bailey has located the prize and within seconds
until a bulbous brown Teneka is on her knees digging into the fecund soil with a dessert
spoon. She scoops up some dirt, takes a sniff, her head cocked to
nugget is exhumed. A one side as she assesses the aromas. The spoon is plunged back
choir of impressed cheers into the undergrowth, gently digging and scooping until a
bulbous brown nugget is exhumed. A choir of impressed cheers
rises from the trufferie. rises from the trufferie on Borrodell Estate in Orange.
Its truffle season and the estates annual Black Tie and
Gumboot Truffle Hunt and Dinner is underway with great
success thanks to Bailey and his trainer. Country New South
Wales may not be the spot where one would typically expect
to nd black Prigord truffles, but by the hunts conclusion a
bounty of pungent, brutish fungi nestles in a napkin-lined bowl,
the largest nugget weighing in at a huge 500 grams.
Borry Gartrell and Gaye Stuart-Nairne know a thing or two
about diversication. Beginning as an orchard, the Borrodell
property has grown to include an award-winning, much-lauded
vineyard, an incredible restaurant and accommodation, and
following a trip to Tasmania in the late nineties, the trufferie.
The intent of the trip was to source the beginnings of a saffron
crop, but instead 100 inoculated oak trees made the return
journey. These were swiftly joined by 500 more and, six years
later, with no one knowing if the enterprise would bear fungus,
the rst truffle was extracted from Oranges unique terroir.
The trufferie is now one of the oldest on mainland Australia.
Head chef of Borrodells restaurant Sisters Rock, Alan
Meaney, must have been briefed to spare no truffle in creating
the evenings menu. Matched beautifully with Borrodell Estate
wines, guests are treated to a truffle-laced dinner. By dessert, 1
 DETAILS

Playing there
B LACK TIE AND G UM BO OT
TRUFFLE HUNT A N D D I N N E R
Fossick beneath the foliage
for trufes and enjoy dinner
served in the Borrodell Estate
wine cellar. This year, the event
will be held on 1 July. Be quick,
tickets are as prized as the
trufes. borrodell.com.au

Staying there
B ELLE LA RUE
Orange has many adorable
cottages, such as Belle La Rue,
located central to town.
bellelarue.com.au

Eating there
B YNG STREET L O C A L STO R E
From another Sydney import,
this local cafe serves excellent
coffee and delicious fare.
byngstreet.com.au

RACINE
Set in the foothills of Mount
Canobolas, Racine is much
lauded for chef Shaun Arantzs
deft touch with local produce.
racinerestaurant.com.au

P H O T O G R A P H Y: A D AV E N P O R T ( F E R M E N T T H E O R A N G E W I N E C E N T R E
Tasting there

A N D S TO R E ); ( L A R A P I CO N E (A L L R E M A I N I N G E XC E P T B L AC K T I E A N D
FERMENT THE
ORA NGEW INE CE N T R E
A NDW INE STO R E
Stop by this wine bar and store
to sample stunning examples of
Orange wines and many others.
Owner Simon is always up for
chatting through his selection.
orangewinecentre.com.au

DE SA LIS W INES
Pop in to sample Charlies
incredible minimalist wines
made with wild strains of
yeast. desaliswines.com.au
G U M BOOT DI N N E R)

PHILIP SHAW W I N E S
Producing stunning wines in an
incredible setting, be sure to
time your wine tasting with
lunch. philipshaw.com.au
 WEEKENDS | Orange

CLOCKWISE gumboots have been abandoned under the tables in favour

FROM LEFT: of danceoor-suitable footwear. The party soon escalates in
Barrels full of ferocity and the atmosphere in the wine cellar descends into
De Salis wines;
The vines at Lofty an all-out hoedown. Dance moves become positively
Vineyard (behind); ecclesiastical in a sort of pinot-fuelled truffle worship.
Stop by Ferment in Orange doesnt mind a party and it has plenty of produce
town to sample some and wine to furnish them. Along with an enviable share of
of the regions cool
climate wines. restaurants, devotion to the grape is evident in the regions
OPPOSITE (top 80-odd vineyards and almost 40 cellar doors. Its a town where
to bottom): Vintage everyone seems to know a great deal about wine, whether born
theatre props decorate and bred here or imports from elsewhere.
the De Salis cellar
door; On the pour at While vineyards have been planted in these frosty climes
popular orange since the 1800s, it wasnt until 1997 that Orange was officially
vineyard Ross Hill; recognised by the international Geographical Indications
The truffle diners hit Committee as a cool climate wine-growing region. Since then
the danceoor.
Orange has blossomed into a food and wine destination to rival
any other in Australia and events such as the truffle hunt and
Orange F.O.O.D (Food of Orange District) Week serve to
grandstand the areas many charms.
You dont come to the party just to sit in the corner and
many Orange immigrants are here to join the revelry. From
restaurateurs and producers, to cellar hands and winemakers,
the same story of breathless infatuation, at rst with the wines
and then with the town, is repeated with thigh-slapping
fervour. Indeed, Orange seems plugged into an energy thats
more akin to a hip city suburb than a rural town.
Maybe its the volcanic sediment in the earth or the
unusually sunshiny winter days, but whatever alchemy it is,
Orange recruits a certain type of person. The type with focus,
an open outlook and an allegiance to the fraternity of oenology.
Charlie and Loretta Svenson are just such people.
If Charlie approached his previous vocation of researching
renewable fuel sources with the same devotion as he does
making his minimalist wine, his choice to set up De Salis is no
doubt as great a loss to the scientic community as it is a gain
to wine lovers. Winemakers are oft described as a bunch of mad
scientists, but the Svensons are far from mad. Charlie makes his
wild wines from strains of yeast endemic to the vineyard, but
while his approach may be scientic to a point, its not a lack
of faculty but joy that nds its way into the bottle.
Lofty Vineyard, both in name and geography, is home to
De Salis Wines, Tank the red cattle dog and Charlies artistry.
A tasting with Loretta and Charlie leads into an impromptu
Maybe its the tour of the winery, and a slide show on Charlies iPhone of Tank
volcanic sediment in enjoying a snow day. Like so many Orangites, the pair resettled
after decamping from a life on Sydneys Northern Beaches.
the earth or the This isnt work, beams Charlie siphoning a still-raw pinot
from a barrel. Its fun to play around with this stuff; its fun
unusually sunshiny to see what you can create.
winter days, but Its the same sentiment that leads Gaye and Borry to invite
the community to pull on gumboots, follow a bow-tied dog
whatever alchemy it is, around the estate, and enjoy the fruits of their labour. Orange
Orange recruits a in this sense is one big open house with a larder and cellar at
your disposal. Whether youre a part of the movement or just
certain type of person. passing through, Orange is a party that everyone is invited to.

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 57
 H I P
H O O D

NORT H BR I D GE
Perths MISFIT DISTRICT, NORTHBRIDGE, has matured into a
hipsters PARADISE that BUZZES well into the night. Having long
loved its many facets, FLEUR BAINGER revisits.

PERTHS NORTHBRIDGE IS A PLACE that divides people.
Locals who have never been to the inner-city hub are put off by its
reputation asaseedy zone that attracts societys fringe-dwellers. began. The feverish 1890s gold rush fuelled the construction of grand
Those who do frequent its street art-splashed laneways, bars and
boutiques are puzzled by the bogeyman hype, revelling in the creative
spirit that mainstream neglect often gives rise to.
Much like Sydneys Kings Cross and Brisbanes Fortitude Valley,
Northbridges rough edges have been softened. Its sex shops, strip
clubs, beer barns and kebab takeaways still exist, but a low-grade
gentrication has seen small bars with a cool-but-communal feel
sneak into buildings with long backstories. Home-grown designers
sell their wares in rehabilitated shop spaces and restaurants inhabit
former Chinese laundries, hairdressers and knock shops.
But if you turned back the clock 188 years, youd nd nothing but
freshwater swampland here. Traditionally used by aboriginal Noongar
people for food and ceremony, the saturated earth was leveraged by
early Chinese arrivals for market gardens in the mid-19th century.
The interconnected lake system even dictated the early suburbs grid,
with streets angled to accommodate the waterways. In the 1860s,
convict labour was used to drain them and permanent settlement
hotels, WAs rst shopping arcade, elite private schools and enviable
residences housing the wealthy, including the states Attorney-General.
Greek and Macedonian immigration before the First World War
fuelled Northbridges multicultural avour just as the upper class was
moving out to Perths river-gazing western suburbs. Gambling dens,
clubs, cafes and restaurants joined their grocery stores as the Italian
wave hit the inner city after the Second World War, setting in motion
the areas reputation for entertainment. All the while, Asian butchers,
grocers, herbalists, bakeries and restaurants were popping up along
William and Roe Streets, creating the Chinatown that still exists today.
The suburb will enter a new phase in mid-2017 with the opening of a
$73.5-million precinct, Yagan Square, linking Northbridge to the CBD.
A steel shade canopy will symbolise the old lake system and the poles
of a huge digital tower will signify Noongar language groups. And in
the meantime, heres what else you should check out when you go.

58 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 WEEKENDS | Hip hood

Chicho Gelato
Y PEA R FORAGED FROM FREMANTLE.
TED MILK AND CORNFLA KE COOKIE.
ON MYRTLE A ND ROAST MAC A DAMIA .
YEP, THE FLAVOURS AT THIS ARTISA N
TERIA A RE AS CRA ZY-TOW N AS THEY
TA STY. A SIDE FROM B EING INSANELY
REATIVE W ITH THEIR FROM-SCRATCH
DIENT MA SH-UPS, THE CUTE COUPLE
IND CHICHO HOLD MONTHLY CHEF
COLLAB ORATIONS TO ENSURE THEIR
ELATO GOES FURTHER OFF THE GRID.
HANDS DOW N THE B EST ICY TREAT
N PERTH (A ND YES, GET THE MELTED
OCOLATE CONE). C HIC HOGEL ATO.C OM

F L O R A & FAUNA
What do you get when a former orist opens a
pocket-sized vegan cafe? The sort of edible
ower-topped dishes that will send your Instagram
feed into meltdown. Try the French Canadian toast
with real maple syrup, easily justied when you spy Sneaky Tonys
the mountain of berries and herbs its served with. STEP ONE: FIND T H E UN M A R K E D
Everythings made to order, pumped out of an open B LACK DOOR H I D D E N A RO UN D
THE B ACK OF SI ST E R E AT E RY,
kitchen measuring less than 10 square metres, with PLEASED TO M E E T YO U. ST E P
eclectic upcycled seating dotting an easy-to-miss TWO: KNOCK . ST E P T H R E E :
laneway. facebook.com/orafaunaperth GIVE THE NIG H T S PA SSWO R D
THROUGH THE PE E PH O L E SL OT
(TIP: ITS POSTED TO FACE BO O K ,
Young Love Mess Hall NECESSA RY O N W E E K E N D S
ONLY). THE CH A L L E N G E O F
N AT U R E , A RT A N D F O O D C O LLIDE AS DO Z ENS
GETTING IN TO T H I S SPE A K E A SY
OF L E A F Y P LA N T S C AS C ADE F RO M A S KYLIGHT
RUM B AR ONLY A D D S TO THE
I N N O RT H B R I D GE S NEWES T RES TAU RANT. AN
FUN. FACEBOOK.COM/SNEAKY TO NY S
I M P R E S S I O N I S T I C E MERALD WALL, LIKE A HUGE
MONET, COMPLETES THE S ENS E O F S ANC TUARY.
TH E M E N U H A S A GLO B AL S P EC TRU M: TANGY
G I N GE R A N D N O R I S ALT- AMP ED JAPANES E
SU C C OTA S H I S A N U NEX P EC TED HIGHLIGHT.
YOU N G L OV E M E S S H AL L. COM
P H O T O G R A P H Y: J U L I E S M Y T H ( F L O R A & F A U N A ) ;
F L E U R B A I N G E R ( YO U N G L O V E M E S S H A L L )

THE S TANDARD
A laneway entrance, rooftop views and
a bar in a sea container: The Standard
ticks a lot of boxes. The kitchens
mod-Oz fare is best eaten atop said sea
container while gazing at skyscrapers
and topping up tumblers with jugs of
lime sherbet-pimped punch.
thestandardperth.com.au
 WEEKENDS | Hip hood

Alex Hotel
B ETTER LOC ATED HOTELS A RE HA R D TO FI N D,
PARTICULARLY ONES THAT HAVE A N H O N O UR
SYSTEM WINE BAR, DESIGNER INTERIORS AN D
MIDDAY CHECK-OUT. IN ITS UN-HOT E L ST Y L E ,
ALEX IS ALL ABOUT COMMUNAL SPACES (LIKE
THE FUNKY ROOFTOP) SO ROOMS ARE CO M PACT.
EXPLORE NEA RB Y PERTH CULTURA L CE N T R E BY
DAY, AND SLINK INTO A LEXS SEXY RESTAURANT,
SHADOW, BY NIGHT. ALEXHOTEL.C OM.AU

William Topp
TOTALLY WORTH THE STROLL,
GIFT SHOP W ILLIAM TOPP IS AT
THE NORTHERN END OF W ILLIA M
STREET, A ND IS B RIMMING W ITH
THOUGHTFULLY SOURCED
TREASURES. THINK HA NDCRAFTED
CERA MICS, THIRD DRAW ER DOW N
TEA TOW ELS STRETCHED ONTO
FRAMES, RETRO B OA RD GA MES,
SOFT WOOD KIDS TOYS AND ELK
JEW ELLERY. W IL L IAM TOPP.C OM

P H O T O G R A P H Y: A N S O N S M A R T ( A L E X H O T E L )

PE RISCOPE NO RTH B RI D G E
William Street blends wonderful vintage fashion P I AZ Z A
with edgy designer boutiques, but if you could only Free tness classes, big-screen outdoor
visit one, make it Periscope. Having relocated from icks for nix, complimentary beanbags on
luxe brand strip King Street, it brings elegant the grass and glowing pouf seating. If thats
tailoring, expert draping and classic silhouettes not enough to get you excited, theres also a
to Northbridges shabby-chic uniform. brewpub on one side of the green,
More individual than trendy, it houses its own label Northbridge Brewing Co., and the entire
among local, Australian and international designers. zone enjoys free wi-. #winning.
periscopeclothing.com.au visitperthcity.com

60 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M

The mountains come alive
in autumn
Crisper temperatures and vibrant colours make autumn
ideal for planning a Blue Mountains getaway full of
art exhibitions, foodie trails and more.
TAKE IN WORLD-CLASS SCULPTURES
Savour the Blue Mountains array of galleries
and markets over a day of gallery hopping, or
visit the annual, world-renowned Sculpture
at Scenic World exhibition, which runs from
7 April to 7 May this year, exhibiting more
than 30 unique sculptures in natural Jurassic
rainforest along the 2.4-kilometre Scenic
Walkway. Enjoy unlimited rides on the Scenic
Railway, Skyway and Cableway as you visit, or
take a guided tour led by talented local artists.
WORK UP AN APPETITE ON
WALKING TRAILS
Start at superbly located Scenic World, where
there is free all-day parking, then take the
Skyway across the valley and enjoy the
leisurely Prince Henry Cliff Walk around to
the top of the picturesque Katoomba Falls.
Meander along the spectacular escarpment
down to the Three Sisters, then descend the
  and nearby Blackheath bursts with quaint
Pass cuts through the rainforest to the base
of Katoomba Falls, then climb the Furber
Steps, or take the Scenic Railway to the top.

unless you prefer to linger along the way.
DELIGHT YOUR SENSES
Sky-high dining awaits at EATS270: have
lunch perched 270 metres above the Jamison
Valley. On the lighter side, the Terrace Caf
offers specialty teas and bakery treats, along
with one of the best vantage points of the
Three Sisters, Mount Solitary and the vast
Jamison Valley. International, award-winning
restaurants abound in Katoomba and Leura,

cafes and restaurants catering to all budgets;
 the renowned Scenic World is a must.
from Logan Brae Orchard.
minutes away, making it the natural hub
COSY UP BY THE FIRE
The crisp days and cooler nights of the
Mountains set the stage for a romantic
getaway, especially with luxurious stays
at iconic resorts such as Lilianfels and
the Hydro Majestic situated on the doorstep
AT PROMOTION | Scenic World
F r o m t o p l e f t : Michael McIntyres
award-winning work; Lilianfels Darley
Restaurant; The Hydro Majestic hotel;
The famous Scenic Railway.
of a range of breathtaking sights. Exclusive
accommodation packages at top resorts
and hotels are available during Sculpture
at Scenic World 2017, with packages
starting from $249 for two people including
an Ultimate Sculpture Pass, breakfast, high
tea, parking, use of leisure facilities, free

GET IN THE SCENE
If youre looking to venture down a cliff
on the worlds steepest passenger train,

Skyway, journey by cableway to the valley
canopy along a 2.4-kilometre boardwalk,
Katoomba, Leura and Blackheath are just
for your mountains adventure.
For more information go to www.scenicworld.
com.au or visitbluemountains.com.au.
For more information on Sculpture at Scenic
World, visit sculptureatscenicworld.com.au
SUBSCRIBE NOW
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AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 63
G R E AT B A R R I E R R E E F

www.qualia.com.au
 The 100 | Ways to see Australia

100
WAY S T O S E E
AU S T R A L I A
P H OTO G R A P H Y: G U Y B A I L E Y. P RO D U C T: PA S S P O RT S I Z E M I D O R I T R AV E L E R S
N OT E B O O K , 69.95 , AVA I L A B L E F RO M N OT E M A K E R .C OM . AU

There are far more than 100 REASONS why our country
is so unforgettable, from STUNNINGLY DIVERSE landscapes
and unique fauna, to salt-of-the-earth people and fascinating
history. This year, for our ANNUAL SPECIA L, we uncover not simply
the places you MUST VISIT, but WAYS TO SEE them that will
take you deeper into the soul of Australia. Your next journey awaits...

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 65
 can take you (oh, and we borrowed SOME HOOVES, too).
ON FOOT
From COASTAL WALKS and nature hikes to TREE CLIMBS and cave

explorations, we went HIGH AND LOW to see where your TWO FEET
WO R D S : L A R A P I CO N E ; F R E YA H E R R I N G ( B U S H F O O D I N
T H E C I T Y ). P H OTO G R A P H Y: M I C H A E L W E E ( F I G U R E E I G H T
P O O L S ); E L I S E H A S S E Y ( W I L D F LOW E R S )
 The 100 | On foot

1 WALK ANCI EN T
C L I F F T O P S JUS T
45 MIN U T ES
FR OM T HE CI T Y

TA NIC
GAR DEN, SYDNEY, NSW
FOOD
ITY

Try black apples straight from the tree and

wash your hands with foaming wattle leaves
on an Aboriginal Heritage Tour of Sydneys
Royal Botanic Garden. Education
co-ordinator for aboriginal programs, Jody
Orcher, has made sure the tours are in-depth
and honour indigenous heritage. rbgsyd.nsw.
gov.au/what-s-on/aboriginal-heritage-tours

V isit an o c t o p u s s
ga rd e n be ne a t h
th e se a
ROYA L N AT I O N A L
PA RK , N SW
ITS HARD TO IMAGINE CITY LIFE
AND ALL ITS STRESSORS ARE JUST

3
45 MINUTES NORTH WHEN YOURE
STANDING ATOP THE WHITE
CLIFFSOF NEW SOUTH WALES
ROYAL NATIONAL PARK. THERE ARE
GREEN ISLAND,
INCREDIBLE EASTER EGGS ALONG
GREAT BARRIER
REEF, QLD
THE COAST TRACK WAY TO FIND, We felt we had to include this
SUCH AS THE FIGURE EIGHT POOLS activity this year, because it is such a
(GREAT FOR PHOTOS, NOT SO memorable adventure for the whole
GREAT FOR SWIMMING DUE TO family. With no diving experience
required, you can actually walk on
DANGEROUS FREAK WAVES), LITTLE
the sea oor, foot-to-sand and
MARLEY BEACH AND WATTAMOLLAS face-to-face with sea life off Green
LAGOON AND BEACH. Island. An underwater helmet is all
NATIONALPARKS.NSW.GOV.AU/VISIT-A- that keeps you from planting a kiss
PARK/PARKS/ROYAL-NATIONAL-PARK on passing sh. seawalker.com.au

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 67
4
F OU R WAYS T O G E T H I G H A N D G O
LOW: S EE THE COU NT RY FR OM
T HE TR EES A ND F ROM T H E C AV ES
GET HIGH
VA L L EY O F T H E G I A N TS T R E E T O P
WALK ,WALP OLE WILDERNESS, WA
EXPLORE TOWERING RED TINGLE TREES
FROM 40 METRES ABOVE GROUND.
ADRENALINE UPGRADE: DRIVE TWO-AND-A-
HALF-HOURS TO PEMBERTON (PICTURED RIGHT)
AND SCRAMBLE YOUR WAY 61 METRES
UP THE PEGS OF THE GLOUCESTER TREE, OR
THE 51-METRE DIAMOND TREE, FOR A HEART-
POUNDING VIEW. VALLEYOFTHEGIANTS.COM.AU;
PEMBERTONVISITOR.COM.AU
TAHUNE AIRWALK , HUON VALLEY, TAS
AT THE HIGHEST POINT ON THIS WALK YOULL BE
SUSPENDED 50 METRES ABOVE THE HUON RIVER.
ADRENALINE UPGRADE: IF THATS NOT ENOUGH
TO RAISE YOUR HEART-RATE, TAKE THE CABLE
HANG-GLIDER ACROSS THE RUSHING RIVER.
TAHUNEAIRWALK.COM.AU

Go low
MOL E C R E E K C AV E S ,
MAY B E R RY, TAS
Tasmania has some of the deepest caves
in Australia, so if you enjoy a sojourn
in the underworld, Tassie is a good bet.
Marvel at crystals, reective pools and
glow worms. Adrenaline upgrade: Kubla
Khan is one of the more spectacular
caves at Mole Creek (pictured left), but
youll need a permit; only 72 people are
granted access each year. molecreek .info
T UNNE L CRE E K N AT I O N AL
PAR K , WA
One-time hideout for indigenous legend
Jandamarra, who was eventually killed
here in 1897 after a siege, Tunnel Creek
(right) is part of the ancient Devonian
Reef. The walk is 750 metres of pitch-
black excitement, and you have a good
chance of meeting a freshwater croc.
Adrenaline upgrade: A croc encounter
is enough adrenaline, we feel. parks.dpaw.
wa.gov.au/park /tunnel-creek
 The 100 | On foot

5
BECAUSE
SOMETIMES FOUR
FEET ARE BETTER
THAN TWO
BO GON G
HORSE B ACK
A DV E N TU R ES , H IG H
COUN TRY, V IC
Take a load off and swing into the saddle
forthese trails with a difference:
Lovely horses, incredible scenery and
restorative mountain air, we loved this
Bogong trail ride when we experienced
itlast year, and still think its one of the
best in the country. Take a ve-day ride
toreally feel like a pioneer, or if youre
stillgetting familiar with our equine
friends, you can enjoy a day tour our
favourite is the half-day with a long table
P H OTO G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y ( W I L D F LOW E R S ); L A R A

lunch. bogonghorse.com.au
P I CO N E ( T U N N E L C R E E K ); P E T E R TA R A S I U K ( H O R S E )

THE FLINDERS RANGES, SA

And if horses are just a bit tame for you,
why not clamber onto a humped and hairy
hoofed steed instead? Camels played a
huge part in opening up the country, and
the Beltana Station Camel Experience in
the Flinders Ranges is a wonderful way to
explore the unforgettable terrain. Or take
a photography-themed trek with Camel
Trek Australia. beltanastation.com.au;
cameltreksaustralia.com.au

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 69
6 FOLLOW A N A NCIEN T SONG LI NE
IN THE NORTHER N TER R ITORY
NITMILUK NATIONAL PARK, NT
Walk 62 kilometres over six days following the ancient Jawoyn song line
through Nitmiluk National Park. The wild, uncurbed beauty of the
Jatbula Trail will stay with you for the remainder of your days. Swim in
crystal pools, fall asleep to the sound of teeming birdlife and have an
all-round life-altering experience. You can trek guided or unguided.
Co n n ect wi th the
custo di an s o f the l an d
NARLIJIA CULTURAL
TOURS, BROOME, WA
7
treklarapinta.com.au Born and bred in Broome, with the blood
ofboth the Yawuru people of the west
Kimberley and the towns historic pearlers
running through his veins, Bart Pigram is
uniquely qualied to lead tours of the area.
Taking keen visitors and locals alike on a
walkabout through the town or the mangroves,
a tour with Bart is to immerse yourself in one
of the countrys most fascinating multicultural
and indigenous histories.
WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE A YAWURU
MAN TODAY?
For me, it has to be the acceptance of
responsibility as an indigenous man. Its
denitely a challenge to balance our cultural
responsibilities with the demands of
mainstream employment and community
commitments. We have responsibilities to
care for the land, our people and our culture
and language, which can be done while
educating and sharing with curious visitors
U N D E RSTA ND W H AT THE CIT Y and open-minded locals. Its our
I T F E E L S L IK E TO responsibility to initiate and make this
S TAN D O N T H E CAN STILL cultural exchange accessible.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: J E N P I N K E RTO N ( N I T M I LU K N AT I O N A L PA R K ); TA S M A N I A PA R K S A N D
E D G E O F T H E WOR L D HOW DOES YOUR MANGROVE TOUR
T HR E E C A PE S T R ACK , TA S
SURPRISE TELL THE STORY OF BROOME?
The Mangrove Tour is presented in Roebuck
Wild, remote and raw, Tasmanias Three
YOU Bay and along the foreshore of Broomes rst

8
Capes Track walk opened last year and
boat passage cut through the mangroves by

has since become one of the must-do M E LB O U R N E , V I C
hiking experiences in the country. Taking WALK TO ART IS A WALKING
in Port Arthur, Cape Hauy and Cape
TOUR WITH A DIFFERENCE.
Pillar over four days, its you, a pack,
EXPERIENCED VISUAL ARTS
and a lot of time to be alone with your
PROFESSIONAL BERNADETTE
own thoughts. threecapestrack .com.au
ALIBRANDO WILL WALK YOU
THROUGH MELBOURNE,
VISITING LOCAL ARTISTS,
DESIGNERS, MILLINERS AND
TEXTILE ARTISTS ON THE WAY,
WHILE AND
LEARNI CITYS
DIVER RE.
WA
W I L D L I F E S E RV I C E ( T H R E E C A P E S T R AC K ); E L I S E H A S S E Y ( BY RO N B AY )
the early settlers. Here, I can weave in the
pearling history as this was also the highway
for hundreds of pearling vessels either
unloading pearl shell at Streeters Jetty or
beached at lay-up time. The older stories that
t this location are the Bugarrigarra Ngan-ga,
or whats generally called Dreamtime stories,
that I have had the privilege of learning from
the older people of our community.
WHATS ONE FACT ABOUT BROOME
WE WOULDNT KNOW?
There are probably a few, but I have found
several references to what is likely the rst
waterhole that was used by Broomes rst
settlers, and was called Jirrgin-ngan by the
Djugun/Yawuru people. Now built over, it
was on the corner of Napier and Dampier
Terraces, near Roebuck Bay Hotel, and was a
vital part of Broomes history. Its a shame that
its not commonly known. toursbroome.com.au
 The 100 | On foot

10
Fr o m the m ost east erly
p o i nt in t h e c ou nt r y

CAPE BYRON WALKING

TRACK, BYRON BAY, NSW
Be it sunset, sunrise or moonrise,
the Cape Byron Lighthouse walk
is a truly spectacular way to
stretch your legs. Dont bail out
once you get to the lighthouse;
the pay-off comes when you
keep walking to the most
easterly point in the country.
nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-
to-do/walking-tracks/cape-byron-
walking-track

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 71
 UNDER
CIT Y LIGHTS
Cities: busy, EXCITING, chaotic, inspiring; too much to do and NOT ENOUGH time.
And thats why WE LOVE EM. To help you navigate YOUR WAY through
2017, weve picked some WONDERFUL WAYS to enjoy the big smoke.

A CELLAR DO O R IN
THE URB AN S PRAWL

11
U R B A N W I N ERY
SYDN EY, NSW
Urban wineries are a cultural mainstay
in Europe and New York, but the Urban
Winery Sydney is one of the rst of its kind
in Australia. A large-scale working winery
in the citys inner-west, the venture is the
brainchild of Alex Retief (pictured left),
who wanted to offer city slickers a taste of
the vine without a schlep to the country. Try
a tasting or one of the popular winemaker
and chef dinners. urbanwinerysydney.com.au

72 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 The 100 | Under city lights

fashion insider
MELBOURNE , VIC

12
Melbourne fashion designers Georgie and
Alex Cleary of cult label Alpha60 (pictured
above and below) share tips for the best
retailtherapy and food in their city:
Search out World Food Books
[worldfoodbooks.com] on level three of
theNicholas Building in the city but dont
be confused by the name; there are no
cookbooks here. Instead youll nd a great
range of contemporary art journals and
limited edition artist books. Then pop
around the corner to Pieces of Eight
A TA S TE O F THE TRO PIC S
[pictured above right; piecesofeight.com.au], DA RW I N , N T
which specialises in super cool and Some of the best food to be devoured in Darwin is at its
interesting jewellery. If you like jewellery myriad markets, where cross-cultural inuences, fresh
and craft, youll love Craft Victoria [craft. avours and stupendous sunsets and sunrises abound. At
org.au]. Part gallery, part shop, it has an the Rapid Creek Markets, Darwins oldest, youll nd Thai,
amazing array of artisan products including Vietnamese, Indonesian, Sri Lankan and Filipino shoppers
work by local potters and woodworkers. jostling for produce, while at the Nightcliff Markets you can
WO R D S : G E O RG I N A S A F E . P H OTO G R A P H Y: H E AT H E R L I G H TO N ( P I E C E S O F E I G H T );

Visit us in our new Flinders Lane store, linger a little longer over live music, good food and coffee.
Alpha60 at Chapter House [alpha60.com.au]. Pick up some crafts or owers at the Parap Markets or listen
For food, Embla [embla.com.au] is a to buskers and other live entertainers at the Palmerston
wine bar in the CBD by the renowned chefs Markets. The Mindil Beach Sunset Markets (pictured below)
from The Town Mouse. Dont be put off are a bit of a tourist trap, but once youve experienced that
by the laminex tables and bright lighting sunset youll understand its for a good reason.
inthe no-frills Chinese diner Shandong darwin.nt.gov.au/explore/markets
Mama [facebook .com/shandongmama] as
thedumplings are authentic and delicious.
Meyers Place [meyersplace.com.au] is one of
the original laneway bars, over 20 years old
and still one of the coolest bars in town.
M I C H A E L W E E ( DA RW I N F O O D)

13
 GET TO KNOW THE
CAPITAL FROM A
KIDSEYE VIEW
14
C A NBER R A , ACT
THE FAMILY THAT STARGAZES TOGETHER,
STAYS TOGETHER, SO TAKE A NIGHT
TOUROF THE FAMOUS MOUNT STROMLO
OBSERVATORY (RSAA.ANU.EDU.AU). TO
COOL OFF DURING THE DAY, VISIT THE
HISTORIC ART DECO MANUKA SWIMMING
POOL (MANUKAPOOL.COM.AU), BEFORE
FILLING YOUNG MINDS AT THE LIKES OF
QUESTACON THE NATIONAL SCIENCE
AND TECHNOLOGY CENTRE (PICTURED
LEFT; QUESTACON.EDU.AU), THE NATIONAL
ARBORETUM PARKS AND GARDENS
(NATIONALARBORETUM.ACT.GOV.AU) OR THE
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AUSTRALIA (NMA.
GOV.AU); ALL OF WHICH MAKE THE CAPITAL
A PARADISE FOR KIDS MEANING A HAPPY
HOLIDAY DESTINATION FOR PARENTS, TOO.

A HER ITAGE WA LK IN
TH E OT HER W EST END
FR E M A N T LE , WA 15
P H OTO G R A P H Y: N I C WA L K E R ( L I S A H AV I L A H AT C A R R I AG E WO R K S )
AN OLD PORT TOWN AND PART
OFTHE GREATER PERTH REGION,
THEATMOSPHERE AND HISTORY
OFFREMANTLE IS INTOXICATING.
THE STREETS OF ITS WEST END ARE
LINEDWITH IMPECCABLY PRESERVED
VICTORIAN-ERA BUILDINGS, AND
VISITORS CAN EXPLORE ANTIQUE
SHOPS, BOOK STORES, HERITAGE
PUBS AND NEW CAFES. TAKE A DIP
ATBATHERS BEACH OR PORT BEACH
BEFORE VISITING THEFREMANTLE ART
CENTRE FOR APERFORMANCE OR
EXHIBITION. FREMANTLEWESTERN
AUSTRALIA.COM.AU
 The 100
You wont mind if th is track
work interrupts your journey
CARRIAGEWORKS, SYDNEY, NSW
YOUVE SEEN A PERFORMANCE AT THE
OPERA HOUSE AND A PLAY AT THE SYDNEY
THEATRE COMPANY, SO NEXT TIME YOURE
IN SYDNEY VENTURE A LITTLE FURTHER
AFIELD TO THE CITY'S INNER-WEST AND
DISCOVER ONE OF THE BEST CULTURAL
VENUES IN AUSTRALIA CARRIAGEWORKS
IN EVELEIGH. WE ASKED ITS DIRECTOR LISA
HAVILAH (PICTURED BELOW) FOR HER TIPS
ON WHAT TO DO IN THIS DYNAMIC URBAN
GROWTH AREA. CARRIAGEWORKS.COM.AU
| Under city lights
16
WHAT MAKES CARRIAGEWORKS A UNIQUE VENUE?
The Carriageworks building was built in 1892 and was the
place where all the trains were built for New South Wales.
It provides an incredible context to present contemporary
art forms in because it is large in scale and very exible.
We present a diverse program across contemporary visual
arts, dance, music, food and all the creative industries.
WHAT ARE YOUR TOP PICKS FOR THE
CARRIAGEWORKS 2017 PROGRAM?
The National is a major exhibition that brings together
some of Australias most talented visual artists in
partnership with the Museum of Contemporary Art
Australia and the Art Gallery of NSW until 25 June.
In August we will present the new opera The Rape of
Lucretia by Sydney Chamber Opera, then from 710
September we are looking forward to the return of
Sydney Contemporary, an art fair that features over
100galleries from around the world.
WHAT ARE THE BEST THINGS TO DO IF YOURE
NOT SEEING A SHOW?
We have visual arts exhibitions, a great bar and every
Saturday from 8am1pm we have the Carriageworks
Farmers Market, which brings together over 80 New
South Wales producers and chefs.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT
ANDDRINK IN THE AREA?
I love Ester (ester-restaurant.com.au) and Automata
(automata.com.au) in Chippendale, and Redfern
Continental for food. If youre after a drink try
TheBearded Tit (thebeardedtit.com) and Arcadia
Liquors(arcadialiquors.com), also in Redfern.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE CULTURAL
DESTINATIONS AROUND THE AREA?
To get a true taste of Redfern culture, Redfern Oval
always delivers. You can catch the Rabbitohs training
andthere is always activity. The Commercial
(thecommercialgallery.com) is a great gallery showing
incredible Australian artists and MOP (mop.org.au) in
Chippendale is the best place to see the next new talent.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 75
 The 100 | Under city lights

Fi n d moments of
Japanese calm in the
metropolit an ma dne ss

MELBOURNE, VIC
Melbourne might be our food, wine and coffee
capital, but it also has some of the best Japanese
bathhouses in Australia. Weary travellers can

17
soak and steam at The Japanese Bath House
(japanesebathhouse.com) in Collingwood, which
has been open since 1999 and underwent a
slick refurbishment in 2015. Men and women
have their own bathing areas and everything
is provided, including towels, soap, robes and
shampoo. For a more upmarket unrobing, try
Onsen Ma (onsenma.com.au) at Meyers Place in
the city. It offers exquisitely serene designer baths
as well as Japanese massage packages, as does the
Japanese health space Sensu Spa (sensuspa.com.au).

DESIGN DREAMS IN
OUR IS LA ND STATE
HOBA RT, TA S
HOBART HAS SOME OF THE BEST SEAFOOD AND WINE
IN THE COUNTRY, BUT DID YOU KNOW IT ALSO HAS

18
SOME OF THE NATIONS BEST DESIGN STORES? LOOK
A LITTLE FURTHER THAN THE ARCHITECTURAL MARVEL
THAT IS MONA AND DISCOVER DESIGN TREASURE
TROVES SUCH AS LUC. FOR HOMEWARES AND
INTERIORS (PICTURED RIGHT; LUCDESIGNSTORE.COM),
FIND COLLECTIVE FOR CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY
(FINDCOLLECTIVE.COM.AU) AND HANDMARK GALLERY
FOR TASMANIAN ART AND CRAFT (HANDMARK.COM.AU).

76 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
19
SO M E COR IANDER
W I TH YO UR
M ORN ING
CO FFEE?
B RISB AN E , QL D
Ethnic breakfasts are one of the biggest food

20
trends of 2017, and Brisbane dishes up three of the
best. Try West End Coffee House for Thai food
with your morning latte (westendcoffeehouse.com.
au). Cook Em Clare hails from Isaan in Thailand
and has a breakfast menu including Chinese leek
dumplings and khao tom gai, an aromatic Thai rice
soup with chicken and ginger. PawPaw (pictured
above; pawpawcafe.com.au) serves a south-east
Asian menu including a Bali bowl and an Asian
omelette, while Caf -mai (pictured above right;
cafeomai.com.au) specialises in Vietnamese breakfast
dishes such as claypot-baked eggs with Vietnamese
lemongrass pork sausage and tamarind sauce.

St ep in t o t h e
p rivat eworl d of
an art ob sessive
THE DAVID ROCHE
FOUNDATION, ADELAIDE, SA
IF YOU LOVE QUIRKY HOUSE MUSEUMS
OF THE SUPER-WEALTHY, SUCH AS
THE FRICK COLLECTION MUSEUM IN
NEW YORK, YOULL ADORE THE DAVID
ROCHE FOUNDATION COLLECTION
IN ADELAIDE. ROCHE WAS AN AVID
COLLECTOR OF DECORATIVE ARTS, AND
HIS COLLECTION SPANS TWO CENTURIES
OF EUROPEAN DESIGN FROM FRENCH
ROCOCO TO THE FABERG OF RUSSIA.
HOUSED IN HIS ORIGINAL RESIDENCE,
FERMOY HOUSE, AND A NEW ADJOINING
BUILDING, IT OFFERS A FASCINATING
INSIGHT INTO ROCHES LIFE AND
PASSIONS. ROCHEFOUNDATION.COM.AU
 ON W HEEL
AND W ING
Weve ROUNDED UP the best ways to traverse the COUNTRY ON
ROAD, off-road and from the air: from the EXHILARATING
to the EPICUREAN and sometimes both at once.

Wheel around
21
the wildflowers
VA R IOUS
LOC ATIONS , WA
Western Australia surely has one of the
most spectacular wildower seasons in
the country. Youll be compelled to snap
away as the dusty red landscape turns
into a veritable patchwork quilt of
colour. If youre not keen to self-drive,
throw your lot in with Luxury Outback
Tours seven-day wildower itinerary,
where you also have the chance to travel
to some of the states most engaging
sites, such as Wave Rock, Cape Le
Grand and Esperance.
luxuryoutbacktours.com.au
 The 100 | On wheel and wing

Love to drive, hate to navigate? Yep, we

candowithout those arguments that make
youdream of ejecting your spouse onto
F OR T H O S E W HO JUS T theside of the road. Happily, there are some
incredible 4WD tag-along tours that alleviate
L I K E T O TAG A LO N G the stress and leave you with the scenery.
FRASERS ON RAINBOW BEACH, QLD
I N T H E S A N D. You dont even need your own 4WD for
thisthree-day tour, which takes you along
Frasers stunning sands, into the rainforest
andthrough creeks. Included is all food
andcamping equipment, so you just
needtobring yourself, your licence and
asenseofadventure. frasersonrainbow.com
Oh, and if youre a little apprehensive
aboutputting wheel-to-sand, we recommend
aGirlsGot Grit preparatory course.
australianoffroadacademy.com.au/girls-got-grit
DIRK HARTOG ISLAND, WA
An island (pictured) with a history that
spansguano mining, pearling and sheep
grazing,this beauty is now used more
sustainably for tourism. Discover rock pools,
blow-holes, a salt lake called Rose Lake, and
long stretches of beach with impossibly clear
waters.The islands isolation will make you feel
like thelastpeople on Earth. The Return to
1616 tag-along tour incorporates restoration of
thevegetation and habitat and includes 4WD,
accommodation andmeals. dirkhartogisland.com
( W I L D F LOW E R S ); W I L L WA R D L E ( D I R K H A RTO G I S L A N D)
WO R D S : L A R A P I CO N E . P H OTO G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y

22
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 79
23 It s Au st ral ias ( b et t er) a n swer t o Bi g
Sur. An d, we k n ow you l ov e it
GREAT OCEAN ROAD, VIC
Sometimes the journey is just as much about the ride as the sights. And when it comes to
theGreat Ocean Road, you, our readers, vote for it each year in our Peoples Choice Awards, so
we assume youve perhaps done the drive more than once. Next time, why not leave the driving
to someone else and spend a day cruising around in absolute coastal style in a 1974 VW Kombi
Transporter Microbus? Take Hike & Seeks Great Otway National Park tour and return via the
Great Ocean Road in style. Surf s up, dudes. hikeandseek.com.au

24RI D E THE
RAI NFOR ES T
AND S LEEP

P H OTO G R A P H Y: J O H N L AU R I E (G R E AT O C E A N ROA D)
I NAP OD
BLUE DERBY PODS
RIDE,TAS
A brand-new experience has just
launched in Tasmanias Derby that will
have mountain bikers eagerly donning
their helmets. The existing trails are
already a hot spot for adventurers on
two wheels, but the new Blue Derby
Pods Ride will add an extra level to
the experience with a three-day
itinerary that includes ne Tassie food
and wine, and accommodation in
unique architecturally designed pods.
bluederbypodsride.com.au
 The 100 | On wheel and wing

A R R I VI NG BOND - ST Y LE
BY S E A PL A NE I S A DR E A M
WE A L L SHA R E

OU TBACK F LOATP LANE

ADVENTURES, NT
Its not just the seaplane that we love about Outback Floatplane
Adventures Ultimate Tour, no, you get to travel in all the
vehicles, including a helicopter, airboat (that other Bond-looking
contraption with a giant fan that propels you from villains, or
crocs) and luxury cruise vessel. Its a birds-and-sh-eye view of
tropical Northern Territorys breathtaking scenery and wildlife,
and is a guaranteed boast-worthy trip. outbackoatplanes.com.au
25
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 81
 WHEN MONEY
AINT NOTHING
BUT A THING
27
If only there was a tour that ticked
off Australias greatest beauties, full
of wine and good food, where I could
travel in supreme comfort in a private
aircraft, laments the gourmand high
yer. If this sounds like you, bemoan
your sorry existence no more, for

26
there is just such a tour. Dipping in
and out of the sky to feast on the fare
and fair landscapes of the Mornington
Peninsula, Barossa Valley, Tamar Valley
and Freycinet Peninsula (to name a
few), this seven-day High Flyers

R OLLING Gourmet Trail from Ultimate Winery

Experiences will only set you back

I N THE a cool $10K or thereabouts.

ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au
S TR EETS
A DE LAIDE , S A
Adelaides vibrant food truck scene has
ourished since 2012, with a diverse array

28
on city streets for mid-week lunches
and large public events on weekends,
including the frequent Fork On The THERE REALLY IS NO BETTER
Road food truck cluster events. Variety WAY TO SEE IT ALL: FOUR
is the magic ingredient, says Mohamed
Bensaid, of Moorish Bites. We introduce BUCKET LIST ROAD TRIPS
a whole world of different ethnic foods 1. THE BIG LAP: Its still the big dream:
that you just cant nd in restaurants. take three months off work, kit out a
Heres our pick from across the board. motorhome and circumnavigate this land.
forkontheroad.com.au 2. THE KIMBERLEY DREAM: A 4WD
MOORISH BITES, MELOUI: A luscious
journey along the mighty Gibb River Road.
Moroccan pancake lled with spinach
andfeta cheese, or with eggplant, 3. THE EXPLORERS WAY: Cut the country
chicken, lamb or marinated sh. in half, from Adelaide to Darwin (pictured).
LA CHIVA, CHIVITA DE CHORIZO: 4. THE NULLARBOR: Its the horizontal
Feisty Colombian chorizo patties packed line in the sand and the classic drive.
in soft bread rolls with lettuce, coriander,
smoked salsa sauce and mayonnaise.
BODRIS TASTE OF HUNGARY,
KURTOSH KALACH: This towering
Hungarian chimney cake is made from
scratch in the van, with ribbon-like
dough wound around a cylinder, covered
with sugar and baked to form a crisp,
caramelised crust.
 The 100 | On wheel and wing

29
G o t he big
di st an ces with
t h e lit tl e guys
REX, QLD
Outback Queensland can teach you a
thing or two about signicant distances.
While many opt to drive from Brisbane
to Birdsville and around to Bedourie
and Boulia, there is another way to see
the north-east piece of our nations
puzzle. Rex is nothing if not regional,
and will get you to Winton and back if
dinosaur bones are your thing, or to
Birdsville for the bash, and to legendary
Longreach. So if breaking an axle on a
dirt road isnt your idea of seeing the
country, consider the alternative way to
get to these amazing outposts. rex.com.au

Because mixing booze and TOUR DE

WO R D S : DAV I D S LY (A D E L A I D E F O O D T RU C K S ). P H OTO G R A P H Y: J O N AT H A N C A M

bikes can surely never RIESLING RAIL

( T H E E X P LO R E R S WAY ); TO N Y L E W I S ( F O O D T RU C K ); S E A N F E N N E S E Y ( R E X );

TRAIL , CLARE
VALLEY, SA
be a b ad idea WHAT TO DO WITH A
DEFUNCT RAILWAY TRACK
IN WINE COUNTRY? WELL, IF
YOURE IN THE CLARE VALLEY,
YOU THROW DOWN SOME
GRAVEL, BUY SOME ELECTRIC

30
BIKES AND TURN IT INTO A
WINE TRAIL THAT PASSES
INCREDIBLE WINERIES SUCH AS
SKILLOGALEE AND SEVENHILL
(PICTURED). TOURDEVINES.COM.AU
WHILE YOURE IN THE MOOD:
L E I G H G R I F F I T H S (S E V E N H I L L)

TAKE A GOURMET CYCLE

THROUGH MUDGEE WITH
TOUR DE MUDGEE CELLAR
DOORS OR LEAVE THE LYCRA
AT HOME FOR THE TOUR DE
GOURMET ESCAPE IN MILAWA.

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 83
 The 100 | Like an A-lister

Like an
A-lister

31
When it comes to ACCOMMODATION, we like a SEASIDE COTTAGE or
WO R D S : N I K K I WA L L M A N

a cute cabin IN THE BUSH as much as the next traveller. But sometimes the
occasion calls for something a LITTLE MORE LUXE. Whether a ROMANTIC BREAK,
a complete retreat, or a holiday for the whole family, heres how to do it in superlative style.
THE NEW COOL KID
ON THE BLOCK
and three reasons to visit
JACKALOPE,
MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VIC T h e qu ie t
1. Its bang on trend: Transformational travel is
oneof the it luxury travel trends in 2017, says a ch ie v e r
Tracy Atherton, Jackalopes general manager. EMPIRE RETREAT
Jackalope isa place to escape reality, both physically AND SPA , MARGARET
and mentally, but also a place to immerse oneself RIVER , WA
in the fabric of the property... From sitting on THIS ADULTS-ONLY, LUXE
HIDEAWAY COMPRISES 10 ROOMS
a privateterrace, sipping a museum-release AND SUITES NESTLED IN THE
chardonnay as thedipping sun dances across SURROUNDING JARRAH AND
endless rows of vines; to participating in customised KARRI FORESTS, YET WITHIN
wine immersion programs, everything is curated to EASYDISTANCE OF MARGARET
connect guests tothe hotel at an experiential and RIVERS RICHES. THE EMPIRES HIGH
RETURN RATE MAY ALSO HAVE
emotional level.
SOMETHING TO DO WITH ITS SPA
2. Location: Over 50 cellar doors and restaurants dot THAT BOASTS STONE BATHS, A
the rolling hills around Jackalopes own vineyard. Add STEAM ROOM A
dramatic surf and sheltered bay beaches, natural hot SHOWER SUITES.
springs, golf courses and national parks for the perfect NATURE RETRE
mix of coastal and country reverie, says Tracy. SEEKING SOLITU
EMPIRERETREAT.C
3. Bells and whistles: We have a package where you
nominate your favourite drink and well not only
have it waiting for you on arrival, but serve it on the
house all stay, says Tracy. She suggests combining
this with the signature 85-square-metre suite
boasting an expansive terrace overlooking the vines,
indoor/outdoor replace, cocktail bar, personal wine
cellar and a deep-soak,stone Japanese tub for an
unforgettable experience. jackalopehotels.com

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM
33 PERTH IS OUR HOTTEST
HOTEL CITYRIGHT
NOW THANKS TO THESE
SPARKLING NEW HOTELS
VAR I O U S LO C AT IO NS ,
PERT H, WA
PERTH IS NOW FLUSH WITH
WORLD-CLASS HOTELS: BESIDES
THEOPULENT CROWN TOWERS
PERTH(CROWNPERTH.COM.AU/HOTELS/
CROWN-TOWERS), THERES ALSO
COMOTHE TREASURY (PICTURED LEFT;
COMOHOTELS.COM/THETREASURY),
RECENTLY NAMED THESECOND-BEST
HOTEL IN THE WORLD BYCOND NAST
TRAVELER, ANDTHEBOUTIQUE ALEX
HOTEL (ALEXHOTEL.COM.AU). ADD
UPCOMING DEVELOPMENTS SUCH AS
THE RITZ-CARLTON, DOUBLETREE BY
HILTON, AND WESTIN PERTH, AND THIS
IS ONEBOOM THATS FAR FROM OVER.

34
P H OTO G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y (C L A R K I S L A N D A N D W I L D F LOW E R S )
B O O K A N I GH T
AT T H E S E B EF ORE
T H E Y D I S A P P EAR!
FL A SH C A M P, VA R IOUS
LO C AT IONS
In a veritable whack-the-mole game of
pop-up glamping options, Flash Camp
comes to Bluesfest Byron Bay over Easter
(with further Byron pop-up dates to be
conrmed). Plans are also afoot for a
Kakadu pop-up (July-September), and a
stint on Sydney Harbours Clark Island in
September. Here, guests can luxuriate in
tents featuring bamboo furniture and luxe
toiletries, while enjoying spectacular views,
and gourmet fare from Three Blue Ducks.
Keep up to date online. ashcamp.com.au
 The 100 | Like an A-lister

The one that ll send your Insta-likes skyrocketing

HALCYON HOUSE, CABARITA BEACH, NSW
35
SO INSTAGRAMMABLE IT ALMOST HURTS TO PUT YOUR
PHONE DOWN, THIS STYLE JUGGERNAUT JUST KEEPS
COLLECTING ACCOLADES AND GUESTS THANKS TO
ITS INIMITABLE BLEND OF ECLECTIC COASTAL COOL
WITH A NOD TO SLIM AARONS-STYLE POOLSIDE
NOSTALGIA. HALCYONHOUSE.COM.AU

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 87
 The 100
36
A PLACE TO CHECK-IN WHEN
YOU WANT TO CHECK OUT
FROM PEOPLE
The home- away-from-home
Hol y G ra il f o r fa m ilies
T H E TA L L E B U DG E R A R E S I D E N C E ,
G O L D COA S T, Q L D
Kids and hotel rooms rarely mix. How about this incredible
Australiana-inspired homestead in the Tallebudgera Valley,
Queensland (pictured; kidandcoe.com/destinations/gold-coast/
the-tallebudgera-residence) instead? Close to Gold Coast beaches
and attractions, plus neighbouring golf courses, the former dairy
farm has been beautifully converted into a family paradise, with
friendly local wildlife and a hammock-strewn verandah.
ALSO
Kid & Coe also runs a gorgeous Manly, NSW residence
(kidandcoe.com/destinations/northern-beaches/the-manly-residence)
complete with handy surfboards to hang ten at the beach. In the
ACT, Canberras East Hotel (easthotel.com.au) thinks outside the
box with bespoke Kids Studios, kitted out with enough child-sized
bells and whistles to keep everyone happy.
37
| Like an A-lister
COPPERSTONE KI, KANGAROO ISLAND, SA
Copperstone KI is an architectural gem where much care has gone
into creating a luxurious bolt-hole away from the mainland masses, set
high on a hillside on over two hectares of land. Lovely touches include
a hot and cold outdoor shower (whos going to see you?), underoor
heating and a sunken courtyard. Emu Bay beach is a seven-minute walk
away, and is reliably quiet save for Christmas and early January. Private
catering can also be arranged. copperstoneki.com
T H E N E XT
W O LG A N VA L L EY
MOUNT MULLIGAN STATION,
38
MOUNT MULLIGAN, QLD
Set to open within the next year, Mount
Mulligan Station will be one hot launch: think
luxury outback oasis on a 28,000-hectare
property, 170 kilometres west of Cairns; set
in the shadow of a dramatic 18-kilometre
sandstone ridge under an endless sky. Twelve
rooms, suites and villas will house a maximum
of 24 guests, ensuring true escapism. Those
arriving by helicopter will enjoy magnicent
views of reef, rainforest and outback before
immersing themselves in the local history
(tours of the old mining town, cattle station and
homestead; guided bushwalks) and environment
(swimming and shing in the reservoir,
exploring in 6WD Land Rovers). Capit all
offwith a spot of stargazing and some ne
winesby the re pit. mountmulligan.com
ALS O C O M I N G S O O N
Hobarts MACq01; a storytelling hotel that
promises to immerse guests in the history and
characters of Tasmania. macq01.com.au
 39
ROM ANTIC
ROOMS
FOR T W O

40
T HE E AST ERN,
T HRE DB O
VILLAGE , NS W
Asked to describe The Eastern in
three words, owner Monique Easton
nominates, Nordic. Minimalist. Luxury.
The romantic refuge features stunning S u it e su ccess in
alpine views, washed linens, Aesop a sk y - h igh vil l a
amenities, leather lounge chairs, Maison CHAIRMANS VILLA,
Balzac candles and Italian glassware a
CROWN TOWERS PERTH, WA
nod to Eastons wedding in a village near
Tuscany, as is the bottle of Chianti left for 715 SQUARE METRES OF UNBRIDLED
guests. theeasternthredbovillage.com LUXURY. FOUR BEDROOMS. ONE BABY
GRAND. 24-HOUR BUTLER SERVICE.
HARTS LANE HAUS ,
2.5-TONNE CHANDELIER. SIX-METRE
DAY LESFO RD, V IC
In Daylesford, Harts Lane Haus is a CEILINGS. THE NUMBERS ADD UP: TO
labour of love for interior designer- $25,000, IN FACT THE STARTING PRICE
owners, Simon Carver and Stuart PER NIGHT FOR AUSTRALIAS MOST
McKenzie. Boasting a two-person spa EXPENSIVE SUITE. CROWNHOTELS.COM.AU
bath, wood-burning replace, reading
nook, local produce hamper on arrival,
gorgeous views all round and, says Stuart,
an excellent record collection, it sounds
perfectly romantic to us. hartslane.com

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 89
 The 100 | Like a naturalist

LIK E A
N AT U R A L IS T
Australia is a very SPECIAL PLACE.
We happen to live in a biodiversity
HOT SPOT, one that spans an entire
CONTINENT-SIZED island and so A s to r m
encompasses all the WEIRD and
wonderful DESIGNS NATURE has o f co l o ur
come up with to THRIVE IN

41
EVERYTHING from snow-shrouded
ALPINE FORESTS to scorching hot
red desert, tropical rainforest and
CORAL REEFS. And since its
CREATURES HAVE EVOLVED
near independent from the rest of the
PLANET, Australia is lled with
unique HOPPING, VENOMOUS,

WO R D S : DA N I E L D OW N . P H OTO G R A P H Y: L AU R I E RO S S (G O U L D I A N F I N C H E S )
strikingly patterned and
COLOUREDANIMALS. So, forget
about saving up for the Galpagos,
GRABYOUR CAMERA and
headto these WILDLIFE
DESTINATIONS.
 KAKADU, NT
Gouldian nches are one
of my passions and I really
enjoy quietly sitting near
small watering holes at the
end of the dry season,
waiting for them to arrive
for their early morning
drink , a sudden riot of
colour in the outback .
Laurie Ross,
photographer
SEE AUSTRALIAS MOST COLOURFUL
BIRD FOR YOURSELF ON A LADY
GOULDIAN FINCH TOUR WITH
LAURIE ROSS; TRACKSBIRDING.
COM.AU/FEATUREDTOUR
Is it po ssib l e
to see a tree
42
ka n ga r o o i n
th e w il d ?
DAINTREE
RAINFOREST, QLD
To see this elusive animal would normally
require the budget of a BBC wildlife lm
crew and some expert guides to spot them
high up in the canopy. But yes, surprisingly,
there is a place where you can see them in
the wild. These unusual, bear-like marsupials
ATTACK OF with a long tail like that of a lemur inhabit
THE DROP remote regions of rainforest in eastern
BEARS! Indonesia and Papua New Guinea, but
TREE KANGAROOS ARE twospecies can be found in Tropical North
HIGHLY AGILE AND HAVE Queensland. It just so happens that the
BEEN KNOWN TO DROP larger of the two species, and the rarest,
20 METRES FROM THE lives in a small stretch of rainforest that you
CANOPY TO THE GROUND.
PERHAPS THIS HAPPENED
can explore by zip wire! At Jungle Surng in
the Daintree Rainforest, theres a family of
ON TOP OF A HAPLESS Bennetts tree kangaroos that have become
EXPLORER IN THESE PARTS accustomed to people soaring through the
AND SPAWNED THE DROP rainforest canopy, a habitat theyd normally
BEAR MYTH, WHEREBY have all to themselves. So, as you stand on
MURDEROUS KOALAS TRY a platform high up in the trees, keep an eye
TO TAKE YOUR HEAD out for this brown-orange furred monkey-
OFFBYFALLING OUT like animal. See one, and youll be in an
OF ANEARBYTREE AT elite club; until they started showing up at
AN OPPORTUNE MOMENT. Jungle Surng next to nobody had seen the
Bennetts tree kangaroo, let alone taken a
picture. junglesurng.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 91
 44
Y OU L I T T L E R I PPLER
MO U NTA I N VALLEY, TAS
Platypus are exceedingly difcult to spot, you can sit on
the mosquito-infested bank of a lake for hours scanning
the surface for the tell-tale ripple of this most unusual
of animals, the duck-billed platypus, but alas, itll

43
inevitably just be the play of the wind on the water
ora surfacing trout. Set on a 61-hectare private nature
reserve is Mountain Valley Wilderness Holidays, where
you can stay in cosy cabins with open log res to
explore the surrounding forest of old growth white
gums in the shade of Black Bluff Mountain. At dusk take
a guided platypus tour of some of the creeks that ow
through the property, giving you a great chance of
seeing this bizarre creature. With poisonous barbs
onits webbed feet, a furry coat like an otter coupled
with that dening duck-like bill, it was famously thought
to be a hoax when a specimen was sent back to the
TH E S E C R E T British Museum by Captain John Hunter in the late
KOA LA FOREST 18th century. It naturally excites the idea of some
M IK K IR A STAT ION , deceptive preparation by articial means, English
zoologist George Shaw wrote in 1799. Its just one of
P ORT LI NCOL N , S A two types of monotreme on the planet, a mammal
WHAT? A truly remarkable spot, koalas thatlays eggs; the other including the four species of
were introduced to the beautiful forest of echidna. While youre at Mountain Valley keep an eye
manna gums on Mikkira Station back in the out for Tasmanian devils, too, which like to visit the
1960s and have never looked back. cabin verandahs at night. mountainvalley.com.au
WHERE? Mikkira Station is situated 30
kilometres south-west of Port Lincoln along
the Fishery Bay Road on the Eyre Peninsula.
HOW? Pull up to the quaint, old
farmhouse, pay a $15 fee and wander a
paththrough the gum trees to the original
settlers Mikkira farmstead, coming face
toface with koalas sitting in the trees
alongthe way. Camp overnight to really
unwind alongside the koalas.
WHY? The koalas are used to curious faces
here so you can get within a respectful
distance of them. With paths winding in
and out of the gum trees and the historic
homestead to wander, its the perfect way
to spend an afternoon with the family. The
koalas will look you straight in the eye as
they doze in the low-lying bows of the trees.
WHAT ELSE? Dont miss the giant
yakkason the property. Take a short,
winding walk to the colossal, alien-like
plants, like something from The Day of
theTriffids. mikkirakoalas.com

92 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 The 100 | Like a naturalist

WHO KNEW THAT THE BEST PLACE TO

SWIM WITH MANTAS WAS JUST
OFFTHE COAST OF A CAPITAL CITY?
MAJES TIC M AN TAS
NO RTH S TR AD B RO K E
IS LAND, Q LD
People pay thousands of dollars to
travel to spots where they can encounter
mantarays; magnicent, graceful beasts
with wingspans of up to seven metres, up
there with whale sharks in terms of diving
kudos. But who knew that you could
swim with mantas just an hour from one
of our capital cities? North Stradbroke
Island, just off the coast of Brisbane,
is home to the Manta Lodge & Scuba
Centre. Its crew will take you to Manta

45
Bommie, a coral outcrop 10 minutes
away by boat, where you can expect to
dive or snorkel with multiple manta rays
on any given day. mantalodge.com.au

FANTASTIC BEASTS
SOU THER N R IGH T
W H A LE N U R SERY,
WA R R N A M BO OL , V IC
Humpbacks tend to steal all the
limelight up and down the east coast
when it comes to whale watching, but
head to Logans Beach from June to
September in the pretty Victorian
coastal town of Warrnambool, and
youll nd a southern right whale
nursery. They come here from the
waters of the Antarctic every year to
give birth, and you can observe their
hulking, 80 to 90-tonne, barnacled
bodies frolicking just a hundred metres
off the beach from a dedicated viewing
platform. If youre really lucky you may
see a rare blue whale, too, the largest
animal to have ever existed on the
planet. To get even closer to the
whalestry Southern Coast Charters.
southerncoastcharters.com.au
RESCUE MISSION
SAVE THE BILBY FUND, CHARLEVILLE , QLD
WE ASKED KEVIN BRADLEY, SAVE THE BILBY
FUNDDIRECTOR AND CEO, FOR SOME VITAL
STATSON OUR FURRY DESERT FRIENDS.
WHAT IS A BILBY?
The greater bilby is the last surviving species
of arid bandicoot we have left here in Australia.
They are superbly adapted to the dry, hot
areas of our outback. Sadly, this iconic little
marsupial has suffered a massive decline. Here
in Queensland their numbers are critically low
and they have disappeared from 99 per cent
of the area they once occupied.
WHAT CAUSED THEIR DECLINE?
Effectively, we humans did! When Europeans
rst came to Australia they brought with
them animals like the red fox, cats, pigs and
goats to name just a few. These animals have
now established themselves in our landscape
and are wreaking havoc on our beautiful and
unique native animals. The bilbys decline has
predominantly been through predation by the
millions of feral cats and foxes and through
competing with billions of introduced rabbits
for resources, including food and burrows.
The bilby and its ancestors have been around
for about 25 million years and weve all but
wiped them out in 200 years. Its an absolute
tragedy that we have to address.
WHERE DO THE BILBIES LIVE NOW?
Bilbies were once found across 70 per cent
of Australia but are now just hanging on in our
deserts in parts of north-western Australia
and far western Queensland. Thats some of
our harshest country, where the cats and foxes
nd it hard to survive.
HOW IS THE BILBY ADAPTED TO LIVE
INTHESE ARID CONDITIONS?
Bilbies are true masters of survival in the
outback. They stay underground during
the day in their burrows that keep relatively
cool as outside temperatures soar into the
mid-40s and higher. Maybe thats where the
townspeople of Coober Pedy got the idea of
living underground.
They dont need to drink water to survive
and their oversized ears act like a car radiator
to help them shed heat. Theyve also got one
of the shortest pregnancies of any mammal on
the planet less than a fortnight so they can
reproduce over a short period and up to four
times a year. They are independent and can
breed at the age of six to eight months.
WHAT WORK ARE YOU DOING TO
COMBAT THE ANIMALS DECLINE?
Out at Currawinya National Park we have
a predator exclusion fence where well be
reintroducing bilbies again soon. This forms
part of an extremely important insurance
population to mitigate the risk of extinction in
the wild until feral cats and foxes can be better
controlled. These animals are managed to
ensure we maximise gene ow and will be used
as a source of bilbies to eventually release back
into the wild. This will support remnant wild
populations and re-establish new ones where
they once occurred, such as Currawinya in far
south-western Queensland.
We run the Charleville Bilby Experience as
well as many formal and informal presentations
to a wide audience. These increase awareness
and educate the public about bilbies and whats
happening to our environment.
The bilbies we look after are also part of
a national bilby breeding program and we
work in partnership with the state, Australian
governments and a range of other key
stakeholders. We are all part of a National
Bilby Recovery Team and have committed to a
unied approach to bilby conservation where
Save the Bilby Fund currently co-ordinates
therecovery effort.
WHAT CAN WE EXPECT AT THE
CHARLEVILLE BILBY EXPERIENCE?
WILL WE BE ABLE TO MEET THESE
NOCTURNAL ANIMALS?
People will see and learn lots about these
fascinating creatures and what is being done to
save them. We have a nocturnal house so you
can see them moving about in daylight hours.
You can even get up-close and personal and
meet them in the keepers arms. Thats a unique
47
part of the experience and something people will
never forget. Its a newly renovated facility in the
historic Charleville Railway Station so its really
easy to nd. The Westlander long distance train
even takes you straight to the door.
IN WHAT WAYS CAN THE PUBLIC HELP
THE BILBY?
A most effective way to help is by direct
donation to Save the Bilby Fund. That way
your money goes straight to bilby conservation.
You can also help the fund by buying bilbies
not bunnies at Easter, purchasing merchandise
from our online store or, of course, visiting the
Charleville Bilby Experience.
You can join in the celebrations for National
Bilby Day on 10 September when Charleville
goes bilby crazy for the weekend, helping us
fundraise with the Bilby Festival and Fur Ball.
Its a great way to support Charleville and our
work out there with bilbies.
You could become a citizen scientist and
be part of our Bilby Tracks program out at
Currawinya and assist researchers with habitat
surveys and other activities needed to prepare
for bilby re-introductions inside the Bilby
Fence.But really its all about spreading the
word about bilbies and their plight. Its up to
all of us to do our bit before we lose another of
our very special animals ... Extinction is forever.
savethebilbyfund.com
 The 100
QUEENS OF THE DESERT
ARKABA,SA
48
Its not often you see a lot of colour on our marsupials: take the old
wombat for example and the, er, grey kangaroo. The yellow-footed
rock-wallaby, however, is a nonconformist. This amboyant character
can be found in the outback, aunting a striking coat of yellow-orange
legs and arms, a yellowish tail with orange bars culminating in a dark top,
while a white stomach contrasts with a fawn-grey back, a black border
separating the two and marking the face topped with orange ears.
Their range is limited to small pockets in South Australia, New South
Wales and Queensland, but the best place to spot one i
Here youll share a 60,000-acre nature reserve with just
staying in the rustic charm of a classic homestead. Head
have your camera ready to snap these striking animals. a
March o the turtles
JU RA B I T U RT L E CENT R E,
NE AR E X M OUT H , WA
In Australia were lucky to be able to witness the wonderful sight
of turtles nesting on tropical beaches and hatchlings making their
way back to the ocean in their hundreds. Without the right kind of
supervision, observing nesting and hatching events can be disruptive
to the turtles, which can abandon a nesting site altogether. But there
is a right way to do it. From November to March you can observe
huge loggerheads, green and hawksbill turtles nesting near the Jurabi
Turtle Centre on a stretch of the Ningaloo Reef. Its right next to a
popular rookery and you can participate in an educational viewing
session, where youll watch a turtle nesting in a manner thats safe
for the reptiles and contributes to their conservation. Book through
the Exmouth Visitor Centre on 08 9949 1176. ningalooturtles.org.au
| Like a naturalist
50
. SY DNEY S MAGIC
9
s
d DR AGON
SYDNEY, NSW
The Great Barrier Reef isnt the be all and
endallwhen it comes to diving in Australia.
Thereare some incredible dive spots that
perhaps slip under the radar of most travellers,
overshadowed by that Natural Wonder of the
World in Queensland. Manly Dive Centre
willtakeyou into the temperate waters just
offSydney for a day of diving that should be
onyour bucket list. divesydney.com.au
FIRST STOP: Dive site The Apartments, off
Collaroy on the Northern Beaches. Here you
will see shoals of yellowtail scad and unusual rock
formations some of which you can swim through.
And through the masses of sh youll eventually
seeendangered grey nurse sharks emerge. Listed
as critically endangered on the east coast,their
fearsome faces hide a gentle nature. Growing up
to3.6 metres in length, keep a respectful distance
and swim alongside these graceful predators.
SECOND STOP: Old Mans Hat dive site,
justoff North Head. Here youll nd a rocky
reefofcolourful sponge gardens, walls and
overhangs. Take a look at the colourful sea
slugs,wobbegong and Port Jackson sharks,
bluegroper and schools of pomfret, but
keep anespecially keen eye out forthe well
camouagedweedy sea dragon.
This beautiful animal can be seen gliding
overthe bottom disguised as a piece of oating
weed. Find one, inspect it closer and youll see
thatit looks like an elongated sea horse, with a
longsnout, and leafy appendages that give it its
name. Its beautifully patterned with iridescent
blues and yellow spots, so make sure you have
anunderwater camera for Sydneys shy dragon.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 95
LIK E A
G ASTRONOME
Visit a GIN DISTILLERY inspired by Tasmanias WILD RIVERS
and TRUFFLE-HUNT with dogs called Simba and Nala. But not until youve
sampled Adelaides THRIVING BAR SCENE and swung by KITCHEN BY MIKES
new airport outpost: wining and dining in Australia this year is as DYNAMIC AS EVER.

WO R D S : F R E YA H E R R I N G . P H OTO G R A P H Y: N I K K I TO ( LO N G C H I M )
CHECK O UT A DELA IDE S
THRIVING SMA LL B A R SCE NE
A DEL A IDE , S A
Adelaide used to be the place where cool bars went to die. But no longer,
because some of Australias best bars are now in the South Australian
capital you just have to know where to nd them. We love cute-as-a-button
bar Maybe Mae (15 Peel Street, Adelaide) for gorgeous cocktails and a Mad
Men-in-Copenhagen interior. Pink Moon Saloon (pictured; pinkmoonsaloon.
com.au) is a lesson in renement, with its steeply angled roof and walls
squeezed into a laneways width, like Tokyos Shinjuku Golden Gai redened
for southern climes. Stop in for a Rhubarb Iced Tea cocktail and consider
yourself the embodiment of chic. Maybe a wine is what youre after, though?
No problem head to Mother Vine (mothervine.com.au) for a huge variety
of wines by the glass that are as lovingly selected as they are delicious.
 52
The 100 | Like a gastronome

Try Long Ch im ch ef David

Th omp sons top five dishes

LONG CHIM; PERTH,

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE
Sydney-born David Thompson was the rst chef
to be awarded a Michelin star for Thai cuisine at
his London restaurant Nahm, and over the past
year-and-a-half he has opened three restaurants
inhis home country: Long Chim in Perth, Sydney
and Melbourne. Here, he shares his favourite
dishes to enjoy on the menu now, and to look
forward to in the future. longchimperth.com

GRILLED PORK
Simple and smoky and fragrant, marinated in soy
and garlic and grilled over charcoal and coconut.
GUAY JAP: ROLLED NOODLE SOUP WITH
FIVE-SPICE AND BRAISED PORK
A rich and comforting dish.
SEN GATI: COCONUT RICE NOODLES
WITHPRAWN, PORK AND YELLOW BEANS
The coconut noodles are nutty, sweet and
riddledwith prawns, pork and bean sprouts.
PLAA DTAT DTIAW: SUN-DRIED
TREVALLYWITH GREEN MANGO
The semi-dried sh with sh sauce is
deep friedand covered with green mango,
chillies, mintand lime.
RINS THAI TEA ICE-CREAM
The tea ice-cream is made with Thai tea and
condensed milk nothing more needs to be
saidabout it, other than that its a compulsory
dishwith which to nish the meal.

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 97
 53 GO FOR DINNER
AT A WORLD-CLASS
RESTAURANT, FOR A
FRACTION OF THE PRICE
MOMOFU K U SEIBO , SYDN EY, NSW
The best dish on the $185 dego at Sydneys Momofuku Seibo
is also available at the bar for $8. Its called busted roti. Its
based on the Trinidadian dish buss-up shut (busted-up shirt):
a heaving mess of butter-drenched, crisp and soft, blistered and
melting, stretchy paratha. Order this and a glass of skin contact

54
wine and enjoy a world-class dinner for under $30.

DRINK MOR E G I N
SOUTHERN WILD DISTILLERY,
DEVONPORT, TAS
What are you drinking if youre not drinking
gin? Its the hottest spirit of the moment and
there are some excellent choices out there,
many of which are coming out of Australian
distilleries. Southern Wild Distillery in
Tasmania has released a range of three gins
inspired by local rivers Dasher and Fisher.
Theyre called Mountain, Meadow and Ocean
and each tell a story about the spectacular
landscape surrounding the distillery. You can
buy it online, but we recommend visiting the
distillery in person to get the full experience.

55
(And a hot tip for cooler months try mixing
your gin with Sin-k-nah (tonicsyrup.com), a
delicious and complex botanical tonic syrup,
but warm it up rst. Its the Antipodes very
own hot toddy.) southernwilddistillery.com
E AT A MA Z I NG
P L A NE FOOD
KI T CHEN BY MI KE , S Y D N E Y
A I R PO RT, NSW
KITCHEN BY MIKE HAS OPENED ITS
P H OTO G R A P H Y: J A S O N LO U C A S (G I N )

DOORS AT SYDNEY AIRPORT, WITHIN

THE T1 INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL.
YOU CAN CHECK OUT MIKE
MCENEARNEYS HEALTHY-EATING,
CANTEEN-STYLE FARE BY DINING
IN,OR PICKING UP ONE OF HIS
CUSTOMISABLE FLY BY MIKE
TRAY-PACKS TO EAT ON THE PLANE.
KITCHENBYMIKE.COM.AU
 The 100 | Like a gastronome

G O T O M E L B OU R N E S
H OT T ES T N EW B A R
LO NG SO NG ,
M E LBOU RNE , VIC
Longsong is opening above Longrain
in Melbourne this winter. Hospitality
royalty John and Lisa van Haandel
are behind the project, and theyve
brought along David Moyle (pictured)

56
of Hobarts celebrated Franklin
restaurant to run the food. With a
Thai-style grill and Australian-focused
drinks list most of which willbe
served out of kegs or barrels this
is set to be the place to be asthe
temperatures plummet. longrain.com

57 GO VEGO F O R
THE NIGHT
YELLOW, SYDN EY, NSW
Yellow in Sydneys Potts Point has long been
lauded for its vegetarian options. But last
year, head chef and co-owner Brent Savage
relaunched the restaurants dinner menu as
100per cent vegetarian. Try dynamic dishes
from its tasting menu like curd, charred leek
and black garlic (pictured above) and youll
see that vegetables can be just as delicious as
any meat dish. yellowsydney.com.au

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 99
 58
V I SI T A N AT U R A L
W I N E RY
H A R K H A M W I NERY,
HU N TER VA LLEY, NSW
Find out what natural wine is
all about at Harkham Winery in
the Hunter Valley. Spend the day
sampling the wines at the cellar door
(dont miss the seriously interesting
shiraz and zesty semillon) then (if
its a weekend) pop into the pop-up
restaurant next door for a laid-back
dinner of Latino-style street food as
the sun sets, before heading off to
bed at the on-site accommodation.
harkhamwine.com.au

59
G ET ALL YOU R
FAVOU RITE T REATS AT
ON E GIAN T B A KE - S A LE
FLOUR MARKET SYDNEY, NSW, AND
MELBOURNE, VIC
YOU KNOW ALL THOSE ARTISAN SWEET
TREATS THAT PEPPER YOUR INSTAGRAM
FEED AND FIRE UP YOUR APPETITE? LIKE
ANDY BOWDYS CRAZY CAKE CREATIONS,
SHORTSTOPS DOUGHNUTS AND
BUTTERBINGS GLUTEN-FREE COOKIE
SANDWICHES? WELL AT FLOUR MARKET
THEYRE ALL IN ONE PLACE. THE FESTIVALS
TAKE PLACE THROUGHOUT THE YEAR IN
SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE. CHECK OUT
THEIR FACEBOOK PAGE TO KEEP UP TO
DATE. FLOURMARKET.COM.AU
 The 100 | Like a gastronome

G o truffle hunting

60
THE TRUFFLE FARM,
CANBERRA, ACT
It turns out that trufes grow extraordinarily
well in Canberra. The Trufe Farm opened
in 2016 and its so much more than a rustic
homestead. Go on a trufe hunt with trufe
dogs Nala, Samson, Willow, Simba, Bear
and Max and return to the farm for a deluxe
trufe tasting. Or go even more luxe after
your hunt by heading to the warmth of the
trufe shed for a six-course degustation
prepared by ex-Emirates Wolgan Valley
Resort & Spa executive chef Damian
Brabender. thetrufefarm.com.au
P H OTO G R A P H Y: L E A N T I M M S ( T H E T RU F F L E FA R M )

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 101
 The 100 | Like an historian

like an
historian
History can be traced through all things in THIS COUNTRY:
in red earth and rocks and PICK MARKS in sandstone; in railway
lines and REGAL BUILDINGS. We take a tour of some key sites
that have dened the SHAPE AND SPIRIT of modern Australia.

61
WO R D S : I M O G E N E V E S O N . P H OTO G R A P H Y: J A M E S H O R A N (S U S A N N A H P L AC E ); H A R RY P H I L I P S CO U RT E S Y
O F T H E B LU E M O U N TA I N S C I T Y L I B R A RY ( B LU E M O U N TA I N S ); A N N E T T E O B R I E N ( N O R F O L K I S L A N D)
UNDER THE SH AD E
O F A CO O LA B AH
62
TREE W ITH B AN J O
Hea d t o T he R oc k s PATERSO N
W I N T ON , QLD
t o st ep b a c k in t i m e The Channel Country area around
Winton is Waltzing Matilda land; red
SUSANNAH PL ACE MUSEUM , SYDNE Y, N S W earth, shrubs and the odd coolabah
The Rocks is Sydneys oldest neighbourhood, rst constructed by tree. Banjo Paterson penned the
convicts in the late 18th century. Here youll nd Susannah Place, an famous bush ballad here and rst
under-the-radar spot operated by Sydney Living Museums that offers the performed it at the North Gregory
proverbial step back in time. It charts the history from the 1840s to Hotel in Winton in 1895. The towns
the 1970s of this traditionally working-class area through four houses Waltzing Matilda Centre dedicated
built by Irish immigrants in 1844 that to a song that has helped dene the
have survived slum clearances and Australian spirit is being rebuilt
redevelopments, with well-preserved aftera re. Due to open in 2018, the
details and recreations of everyday life centre will also touch on wider Winton
through the years. Entry is by guided history, including as the birthplace
tour. sydneylivingmuseums.com.au ofQantas. matildacentre.com.au
 63 64
In sea rch of h eav en a n d
h el l in t h e Pa cific
NORFOLK ISLAND, TERRITORY
STONE RUINS OF THE ONCE HARSHEST PENAL
SETTLEMENT IN THE COLONY (DUBBED HELL
IN THE PACIFIC) CUT A STARK CONTRAST
AGAINST THE BENIGN BLUE SKIES AND
TAKE THE HISTORIC HIGH SPARKLING SEA VIEWS OF SUB-TROPICAL
ROADOVER THE MOUNTAINS NORFOLK ISLAND. NORFOLKISLAND.COM.AU
THE BELLS LINE OF ROAD, NSW
The alternative route over the Blue Mountains from Sydney,
anda scenic drive before brown road signs existed, the Bells Line
of Road twists and turns past apple orchards, sheer sandstone
cliffs and through national park. Following part of the route of
a traditional aboriginal pathway, it was rst established as a road
in 1823 by Archibald Bell. Today, you can soak in history, apple
cider and mountain air with a leisurely drive and a few pit stops:
1. Set in a cottage built in 1825, Lochiel House is a cafe and
restaurant with tenure: in 1851, the Sydney Morning Herald
commended the establishment for its lodging, food and stabling.
Today its chefs create modern Australian cuisine and the setting
is picture-perfect. lochielhouse.com.au
2. The long-established hamlet of Bilpin, Land of the Mountain
Apple, makes good fruit: its reputation built on its fertile soil,
elevation and mild climate. Visit Bilpin Ciders cellar door to
sample its range; from original to cloudy, Pink Lady or pear; or
stop off at any of the fruit-picking orchards nearby. bilpincider.com
3. A typical day in 1929 would see up to 100 cars drive the
unsealed Bells Line of Road from Sydney to visit The Jungle; a
280-hectare conservation park that offered rainforest walking
tracks and tearooms. Today, The Jungle is part of the Blue M A K E A P O I GNA N T
Mountains Botanic Garden, and the journey there is smoother. PI LGRI M AGE RI CH W ITH
Visitors can dine at Sean Morans one-hat Tomah Gardens P E R S O NA L S T O R I ES
Restaurant (with views over Wollemi National Park), and hire NAT I O NA L A N Z AC C E N T R E ,
Jungle Lodge for overnight stays. bluemountainsbotanicgarden.com.au
A L BA N Y, WA
Albanys National Anzac Centre is an essential experience

65
for anyone looking to learn more about the ANZAC story.
Opened in 2014 to commemorate the ANZAC centenary,
the impressive centre is set within the Princess Royal Fortress
and overlooks the same harbour that saw over 41,000 men
and women depart for the First World War. From its wealth
of source material, made up of interactive technology and
historical artefacts, the centre shapes the experience into
an extremely personal one: visitors are assigned one of
32 photographs on arrival, and follow the poignant story
of a real life soldier or nurse throughout the exhibition.
nationalanzaccentre.com.au

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 103
 The 100 | Like an historian

TAKE THE SNAIL MAIL TRAIL

O LD T ELEGR APH STAT I O N
R ESERVE, ALI CE SPR I NGS, NT
The gateway to the Red Centre, ancient and
contemporary aboriginal culture, Alice Springs
symbolises many facets of Australian life, and
not least its settler history.The township
which was originally named Stuart began
life in 1871 as a telegraph station on the

66 Adelaide to Darwin railway line, an integral

part of the engineering feat that was to
connect Australia with the rest of the world.
(Before the installation of the Australian
Overland Telegraph Line, news would take
ve months to reach Australia from England).
Once there were 11 telegraph stations on
the route and today the Old Telegraph Station
Reserve in Alice Springs is one of a few that

67
remain, now preserved as a museum to tell
this story. alicespringstelegraphstation.com.au

68

P H OTO G R A P H Y: CO U RT E S Y O F T H E S TAT E L I B R A RY O F V I C TO R I A ( E U R E K A S TO C K A D E ,
F OL L OW I N T H E H OOF
P R I N TS OF C A M EL S
T HE GH A N , S A T O N T

H I S TO R I C N E D K E L LY I M AG E RY ); P E T E R TA R A S I U K ( B A L L A R AT T H E AT R E )
The Ghan one of the worlds greatest train
journeys is named for the Afghan cameleers
(amisnomer because they werent all from
Afghanistan) whose efforts from the 1860s to
theearly 1900s were crucial in opening up the
Australian interior. They paved the way for the
Overland Telegraph Line from Adelaide to Darwin;
and for this train route (which extends to Darwin,
but originally stopped at Alice Springs). So, sit
back and journey into the past at 85 kilometres
anhour. greatsouthernrail.com.au/trains/the-ghan

SOMBRE, SERENE AND ESSENTIAL

PORT ARTHUR HISTORIC SITE, TAS
A THOUGHT-PROVOKING DESTINATION TUCKED
WITHIN THE IDYLLIC TASMAN PENINSULA, PORT
ARTHUR REMAINS ONE OF TASMANIAS BIG DRAWS
FOR OBVIOUS REASONS. PORTARTHUR.ORG.AU

104 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
What they didnt teach you at school
H I G H CO U N T RY, V I C
69
Victorias north-east is Kelly Country, and visitors to the towns of this region can follow in the
footsteps of Australias most famous bushranger: from Beveridge, Neds rst home town, to
Glenrowan, the site of his last stand, and to Beechworth, where he was tried and imprisoned.
We asked Matt Shore Ned Kelly enthusiast, researcher and founder/co-curator of the Ned Kelly
Vault at Beechworth to tell us some little-known facts. nedkellyadventuretours.com
1. Ned Kelly was the subject of the worlds rst full-length feature lm, The Story of The Kelly Gang,
which was lmed near Melbourne in 1905. Only a few fragments (about nine minutes) of the lm
survive and its held by the National Film and Sound Archive in Canberra.The lm was a huge hit
with audiences in Australia, New Zealand and England.The lm was released at a time when
many people involved in the Kelly story (including Neds mother) were still alive.
2. Ned Kelly had an American stepfather named George King. He married Neds widowed mother
Ellen in February 1874. George was only six years older than Ned. He was heavily involved in
Neds horse-stealing escapades and disappeared around early 1878 as police attention over stock
thefts was becoming a little too close for comfort. George fathered three children to Ellen. His
son became a policeman in Western Australia and later an international horse-riding champion.
George Kings disappearance remains one of the great unsolved mysteries of the Ned Kelly story.
3. Ned Kelly worked at several sawmills between 1874 and 1877. One mill was supplying timber
sleepers for the north-east railway project. Ned was eventually promoted to overseer. He is also said
to have built a house from locally quarried pink granite near Glenrowan.The house survives and a
completion date of 1876 probably carved by Ned can still be seen at the back of the house.
4. Godfrey Castieu was the 13-year-old son of the Melbourne gaol governor.While Ned was at the
gaol awaiting execution, Mr Castieu brought his son into the gaol to meet the famous outlaw. Ned is
supposed to have patted Godfrey on the head through the gaol bars and declared,Son, I hope you
grow up to be as ne a man as your father. Godfrey later became a star of early Australian cinema.
In an extraordinary twist, he played the role of Ned Kelly in three lms.
5. Neds nephew, Frederick Foster, was a soldier in the First World War.When his mother died in
1898, he was brought back to Greta with his two sisters. He was raised by Neds mother (Freds
grandmother) and Neds surviving brother, Jim Kelly. Fred was killed at the battle of Lagnicourt on

70
15 April 1917. His name can be seen on the war memorial at Oxley, not far from Glenrowan.

G ol d f ever a n d Eu re ka mo me n t s
THE MUSEUM OF AUSTRALIAN
DEMOCRACY AT EUREKA, BALLARAT, VIC
WANDER THE STREETS OF BALLARAT TO SEE EVIDENCE
OF VICTORIAS GAME-CHANGING GOLD RUSH IN THE
MID-19TH CENTURY. BUT BEHIND FANCY FAADES LIE
COMPLEX HISTORIES; A VISIT TO THE MUSEUM OF
AUSTRALIAN DEMOCRACY AT EUREKA (MADE.ORG), ON
THE SITE OF THE 1854 EUREKA STOCKADE, TELLS HOW A
BAND OF DISENFRANCHISED MINERS SET IN MOTION THE
DEMOCRATIC FREEDOMS WE TAKE FOR GRANTED TODAY.
 AT BRISBANES

OF MODERN ART.
ARTIST GERHARD

GERHARD RICHTER,
ICO N I C A RT

QUEENSLAND ART
E X P ERI ENC E

QAGOMA.QLD.GOV.AU
AUSTRALIAN SHOW,
LEGENDARY GERMAN
Q AGOMA, BRISB ANE , QL D
71
RICHTERS FIRST MAJOR

GALLERY AND GALLERY

OPENS ON 14 OCTOBER
LIK E

taking note of now heres WHERE TO START.

read on. From blockbuster shows to TINY ARTIST TOWNS and a painter worth
CON NOISSEUR
If youve resolved TO INCREASE your intake of ARTS AND CULTURE this year,
A C U LT U R E

WO R D S : F R E YA H E R R I N G . P H OTO G R A P H Y: P E T E R N OVACCO (G OV E R N M E N T H O U S E ).
A RT WO R K : G E R H A R D R I C H T E R , A B S T R AC T PA I N T I N G ( 726), TAT E CO L L E C T I O N ; C L A R A
A D O L P H S , O N E M O R N I N G , 2015 , 78 X 6 8 C M ; L I N DY L E E , F L A M E F R OM T H E D R AG O N S P E A R L : F L U I D
A S I C E , S U L L I VA N+S T RU M P F ; TO N Y C L A R K , T WO S EC T I O N S F R OM C L A R K S MY R I O R A M A W I T H I N A
FE I G N E D F R A M E , S U L L I VA N+S T RU M P F
 The 100 | Like a culture connoisseur

73
E X P L O R E BUILDINGS YOU
NE V E R KNEW WERE TH ERE
OPEN HOUSE MELBOUR NE ,
VIC, AND SYDNEY OPEN, NSW
Check out Open House Melbourne in July
(openhousemelbourne.org) and Sydney Open
inNovember (sydneylivingmuseums.com.au/
sydneyopen) to get behind the scenes of some of
the cities most inspiring and intriguing buildings,
many of which are often closed to the public.
Shameless snoops have previously had the
chance to visit The Great Synagogue in Sydney
and Government House (pictured) in Melbourne. DI SCOVE R A
NE W A RT IST
T O WAT C H
AT JUST 31 YEARS OLD, 2016
ARCHIBALD PRIZE FINALIST
CLARA ADOLPHS IS ONE OF
THE MOST EXCITING ARTISTS
OF THE DECADE. PAINTING
IN THICK IMPASTO WITH A

72
PALETTE KNIFE, ADOLPHS
DEPICTS SCENES FROM OLD
PHOTOGRAPHS, CREATING
EVOCATIVE AND MESMERIC
PAINTINGS WITH COMPLEX
NARRATIVES. HER NEXT SHOW
WILL BE AT THE M ART

4
POP-UP IN SYDN G
NOVEMBER. MICK M

ITS TIME TO GET

CONTEMPORARY
S Y DN E Y, NS W
GREEN SQUARE IN SYDNEY IS ON
TRACKTO BECOME A SHINY NEW
CULTURAL AND COMMUNITY HUB,
ANDTHE ARTS ARE FOLLOWING SUIT.
CHECK OUT THE FRESHLY RELOCATED
MAY SPACE (FORMERLY BRENDA MAY
GALLERY; MAYSPACE.COM.AU) AS WELL AS
CONTEMPORARY GALLERY STALWARTS
SULLIVAN+STRUMPF (WORKS PICTURED
RIGHT AND ABOVE; SULLIVANSTRUMPF.
COM) AND THE DARREN KNIGHT
GALLERY(DARRENKNIGHTGALLERY.COM).

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 107
 76
ABSOR B
OU R G R EAT
THE AT RIC AL
TAL E NT
75 MEET ARTISTS A ND
DES IGNERS IN THE
YARRA VALLEY
YA R R A VA LLEY
The executive director of Melbourne Theatre
Company, Virginia Lovett, knows a thing or
OPEN ST U DIOS , V IC
two about theatre. Great theatre is never in Yarra Valley Open Studios returns
short supply in Australia: there is a multitude after a two-year hiatus. Visit the
of incredible theatre-makers on and offstage, Healesville area in September,
bringing audiences the best international and the Yarra Glen in October and
local stories, she tells us. The Australian
theatre ecology is so rich and exciting, and
the Warburton area in November
the talent of our artists and quality of our to see artists and designers at
productions is recognised around the world. work in their studios, chat to
Here she gives us her three top picks of the them and take something
year. mtc.com.au home. yarravalleyarts.org.au

7
NOISES OFF
325 June
Queensland Performing Arts Centre, Playhouse
8 July 12 August
Arts Centre Melbourne, Playhouse

If youre in need of a good laugh, Noises Off

Wa t c h t h e a t r i c a l
is the answer. Starring Simon Burke, its a
rollicking farce and contemporary classic that
history repeat itself
audiences have loved for decades.

THE FATHER
19 August 21 October
Sydney Theatre Company, Wharf 1 Theatre
2 November 16 December
Arts Centre Melbourne, Fairfax Studio

John Bell is one of Australias most pre-eminent

actors; dont miss the chance to see him in the lead
role of an astonishing new play. The Father is
deeply moving and transports audiences into the
puzzling labyrinth of an old mans once familiar
world. Its unlike anything Ive seen in a long time.

VIVID WHITE
18 November 23 December
Southbank Theatre (Melbourne), The Sumner

Vivid White (pictured above) is the latest

creation from the wild, satirical mind of Eddie
Perfect. Its a hilarious and ruthless swipe
at middle-class aspirations and the living
nightmare that is the Australian housing market.
 78 See the Red Centre up in lights
PARRT JIMA A FESTIVAL IN
LIGHT, ALICE SPRINGS, NT
Australias biggest ever light show installation returns for
its second year, running from 22 September to 1 October
2017. Last years event was a national sensation the
MacDonnell Ranges were lit up in a sea of dancing light,
and ancient aboriginal stories were told through light
andsound. parrtjimaaustralia.com.au
K A R A RO S E N LU N D (A RT I S T LU K E S C I B E R R A S H I L L E N D H O M E ). A RT WO R K S : D E N I S E S M I T H ,
Julie Andrews, who starred in the
P H OTO G R A P H Y: J E F F B U S BY (MY FA I R L A DY ); J A M E S H O R A N F O R AG B E V E N T S ( PA R RT J I M A);
TAW N Y F R O G M O U T H S; S H A N E P I C K E T T, S I X S E A SO N S : A S U I T E O F P R I N T S 20 05 20 06 (D E TA I L ),
original1956 show on Broadway, has
directed My Fair Lady to exactly replicate
it, including using those Cecil Beaton
costumes. Its showing in Brisbane
andMelbourne for the rst time: at
BrisbanesLyric Theatre until 23 April and
Melbournes Regent Theatre from 12
S TAT E A RT CO L L E C T I O N , A RT G A L L E RY O F W E S T E R N AU S T R A L I A
May until 25 June. It returns to Sydney
after its success last year, showing at the
Capitol Theatre from 24 August until 23
September. Like Julie, its practically perfect
in every way. myfairladymusical.com.au
The 100 | Like a culture connoisseur
79
U NCOVER PE RTH S
TRANS FO RMATI ON
INTO AN IND I G E N OU S
ART CENTRE
A RT GA LLERY OF W EST ER N
AUST R A LI A , PERT H , WA
Head to the Perth Cultural Centre to
see how the Art Gallery of Western
Australia is shifting its focus to better reect
Australian indigenous arts in 2017. From
29 July, experience its new permanent
indigenous gallery. Or see Plain Speak
until 13 August, a new annual exhibition
dedicated to the stories of aboriginal and
Torres Strait Islander peoples. This years
exhibition includes both contemporary and
traditional mediums. artgallery.wa.gov.au
80
WALK IN THE
F OOTS TEPS O F ARTIS TS
HILL EN D , NSW
Visit one of Australias most celebrated
artists towns, Hill End, in the Bathurst
region of New South Wales. The town,
surrounded by spectacular landscapes, has
been a home and source of inspiration to
some of Australias most highly regarded
artists, including Margaret Olley, Jeffrey
Smart, John Olsen and Russell Drysdale.
Hill End was a key town in the Australian
gold rush of the 1870s, and history abounds
in its buildings and museums. Visit from
2123 April for The End festival of arts,
culture and heritage. nationalparks.nsw.gov.
au/things-to-do/events/the-end-festival
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 109
81
Canyoning capers
K A R I J I N I N AT I O N A L PA R K , WA
Digital editor Steve Madgwick tackled the beautiful canyons
of Karijini last year. Here he describes why its a must for
outback adventurers.
WHATS SO SPECIAL ABOUT THESE CANYONS?
Karijini is renowned for its older-than-animals geology
andcolours that feel like they have no place in one of
theharshest environments on Earth. But what the vibrant
image on this page doesnt convey is the ancient, intangible
energy almost personality that each of the gorges
radiates. Its like theyre trying to communicate with you.
IS IT TOUGH NEGOTIATING THE GORGES?
Many of the gorges, like Dales and Joffre, can be accessed
by a (fairly energetic) walk down from their respective car
parks. To go deeper (with canyoning operator West OZ
Active) you will have to clamber, climb, abseil and swim
(with a life jacket and inner-tube). Youll need to be of
reasonable tness (or better), with no lingering injuries
ormorbid fears of heights or tight spaces.
HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU SPEND IN THE WATER?
Canyoning by its nature follows the natural water course so
youll be in and out of streams, pools and creeks all day, albeit
in a thick wetsuit and boots. You even get to abseil straight
down a waterfall and slide (a few metres) off another.
IS THERE A CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE TO THIS AREA?
Karijini has an intense cultural signicance to the Banyjima,
Yinhawangka and Kurrama peoples. The gorges acted
asancient meeting places and sheltered sacred sites so
youreencouraged to show respect; keep the noise down,
dont go where you shouldnt and dont remove anything.
WHAT NATURAL HISTORY DO YOU ENCOUNTER?
The rock here is some of the oldest exposed
anywhereinthe world. Too old for animal fossils, but
notfor stromatolites, the oldest known fossils going,
comprised of former towers of symbiotic microbes.
Tackle Karijinis canyons yourself, see westozactive.com.au

Follow GREAT EXPLORERS to remote places,

ADRENALIN-seek in the outback, MARVEL at the WILDERNESS
of Tasmania and the TROPICAL OUTPOSTS of the north, climb the
countrys ALPINE HEIGHTS and dive its beautiful DEPTHS.

LIKE AN
ADVENTURER
 The 100 | Like an adventurer

Mounta i n m a d ne s s
JINDABYNE, NSW
IF YOURE READING THIS AND FANCY YOURSELF THE INTREPID,
ADVENTUROUS SORT,THEN THERE SHOULDNT BE ANY
TERRAIN ON THE PLANET THAT PRESENTS AN OBSTACLE TO

82
YOU GOING THERE. INCLUDING ICE WALLS THE AUSTRALIAN
SCHOOL OF MOUNTAINEERING RUNS VARIOUS ALPINE SKILLS
WEEKENDS IN KOSCIUSZKO NATIONAL PARK. NOT ONLY WILL
THIS TAKE YOU IN AND AMONG THE WINTER WONDERLAND
THAT IS THE SNOW-CLAD AUSTRALIAN ALPS, BUT YOU
WILL LEAVE FEELING CONFIDENT TRAVERSING BEAUTIFUL

83
Ho m e o f the b liz z a rd
HIGH-ALTITUDE MOUNTAINOUS TERRAIN AT HOME AND
ABROAD.THE INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING COURSE
IS A FIVE-DAY ADVENTURE OUT OF JINDABYNE, STAYING IN
NEARBY KOSCIUSZKO NATIONAL PARK AT AN ON-SNOW
BASE CAMP. CLIMBINGADVENTURES.COM.AU
A N TA RC T I C A , T E R R ITO RY
An expedition to the white desert, Antarctica, is
one of the ultimate adventures. Its difcult to
reachthe portion of Antarctica that Australia lays
claim to, but where theres a will theres a way.
WO R D S : DA N I E L D OW N . P H OTO G R A P H Y: J O N AT H A N C A M ( K A R I J I N I A N D CO O B E R P E DY )

Heritage Expeditions retraces the route of explorer

and scientist Sir Douglas Mawson, who along with
Scott, Amundsen and Shackleton was a pioneer of
Antarctic discovery. On a 26-day cruise aboard a
former polar research ship, youll make your way
past colonies of penguins to the outpost of Cape
Denison on Commonwealth Bay, the base for Mawsons ill-fated
expedition of 19111914. Visit the hut where he sheltered howling
winds for a year awaiting rescue. heritage-expeditions.com

OUTBACK ODYSSEY
C OOBER PEDY, SA

A journey through our famously eccentric outback towns,
meeting dusty characters along the way, is made possible
by joining a postie on his rather unusual run from the
subterranean opal mining town of Coober Pedy to William
Creek along the Oodnadatta Track. Youll hit the unsealed
red roads in something that looks a little bit like a tank, as
the postie makes his stops at remote cattle stations, including
Anna Creek Station, the largest in the world; Israel would t
inside. Youll cross the Dingo Fence, lunch at the legendary
Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta and drink at the William
Creek Hotel, a quintessential outback pub. mailruntour.com.au
84
A T RAGI C B EAU T Y
SS YO N G A L A , Q L D
WHAT? The passenger ship, the SS Yongala, sank in 1911 en
route from Melbourne to Cairns killing all 122 aboard. Found
in 1958 intact and covered in coral, the wreck is now regarded
as one of the best dive sites in Australia, if not the world.
WHERE? The wreck is located 12 nautical miles from Alva Beach,
south of Townsville, in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

85
HOW? Yongala Dive (yongaladive.com.au) has one- or two-day
options (two and four dives respectively) with accommodation
in a renovated Queenslander at Alva Beach. Youll need to
have an Open Water-level certication.
WHY? The hulking form of this 107-metre vessel looms out of
the depths with its colourful outcrops of coral. Youll see huge
shoals of trevally and barracuda, rays, turtles and bull sharks.

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 111
 86 The 100 | Like an adventurer

A WO NDERFUL W ILDERNESS
SOU T H-W EST TA SM A N I A
Taking you deep into the heart of the World Heritage-listed Tasmanian
wilderness, guides Louis Balcombe and Cody McCracken lead a series
of excursions based out of Pedder Wilderness Lodge in the Southwest
National Park, a region where the last Tasmanian tiger was captured
in 1933. From the comfort of the lodge, youll walk through the
gnarled eucalyptus valleys of Mount Field National Park; enjoy
viewsof the spine-like Western Arthur Range; the towering forests
ofthe Florentine Valley; and spend a day kayaking onLake Pedder,
exploring its pink quartzite beaches and inlets. Its a chance to see
Tasmania at its best, in one of the last great wilderness areas on the
planet. wildpedder.com.au

Go deep into the S A I L AWAY

heart of the World T HE KI MBER LE Y, WA
The Kimberley is a little like the Land of Oz; a
Heritage-listed wonderful, far-off place that is notoriously difcult to
wilderness, a region getto, owing to the fact that youll need to spend a
where the last small fortune to travel there. But there is another way,
ifyoure prepared to forgo some luxury extras in
Tasmanian tiger was

87
favour of a few tinnies and a swag. Ahoy Buccaneers
captured in 1933. runs eminently affordable cruises up and through the
spectacular Kimberley coastline, taking in must-see
sights like Kings Cascades, Horizontal Falls and the
mysterious aboriginal rock art of Vansittart Bay. You can
always book a cabin aboard the MV Oceanic, but if

P H OTO G R A P H Y: B RO O K J A M E S ( T H E K I M B E R L E Y ); S A R A H M AC K I E ( J I M J I M FA L L S );
youre like us, a swag up on deck under the stars is
hardto beat. ahoybuccaneers.com.au

E L I S E H A S S E Y ( E A RT H D E TA I L S H OT )

112 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
Co m p l e t e t he ho p
88
CO CO S K E E L I N G I S L A N D S ,
T E R R ITO RY
Sitting even further out west in the Indian Ocean than
Christmas Island is one of Australias most remote, and most
beautiful territories.The Cocos Keelings are a collection of
27 islets where two adjacent coral atolls break the surface.Theyre
a little-known, untouched paradise of swaying palms and white
sand beaches, coral reefs below sapphire blue waters, and its all
ripe for exploration, the lush centres of the islands criss-crossed
with trails and interwoven with the unique culture of the
Cocos Malay people.Try to make it to all 27 islands; you can
do so by hiring a motorised canoe, but during the doldrums from
November to May you can kayak or even stand-up paddle board
between the islands. Some of the smaller stretches can be made
by snorkelling across or wading at low tide to nd your own
private islet for a spot of lunch; indeed, the Cocos Keelings lay
claim to the worlds only atoll walk, whereby low tides at certain
times of year enable you to walk the entire stretch of the main
horseshoe-shaped lagoon. cocoskeelingislands.com.au

89 OFF-BEAT OUTPOST
GROOTE EYLANDT, NT
Theres a strange, far-ung outpost in the north, one that until recently kept itself to itself.
Groote Eylandt, Dutch for Large Island, was named by Abel Tasman in 1644, and is home
to the Anindilyakwa people. The opening of Groote Eylandt Lodge means you can now
stay here, with 60 bungalows facing the ocean and Seagrass restaurant serving fresh-caught
sh with 300 square kilometres of pristine water surrounding the lodge, its fast becoming
Australias top shing destination. Head there to feel like an explorer yourself, discovering the
ancient cave paintings, unique culture and wild beauty of Groote. grooteeylandtlodge.com.au

W ILD WATERS
KATHERINE REGION, NT
WILD SWIMMING CAN BE A LIFE-
AFFIRMING EXPERIENCE AND THE TOP
END HAS SOME OF THE COUNTRYS
BEST NATURAL POOLS. TAKE A DIP AT
BEAUTIFUL JIM JIM FALLS (PICTURED) FOR
INSTANCE. SEARCH WILD SWIMMING
AT AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM FOR MORE. 90
 Like a local:
TOW NS ON
THE CUSP Find Port Fairy pass? Broome boring? Is Seal Rocks so last year? Then you,
TREND HUNTER, will want to take note. From the next Mudgee to tiny
towns BIG ON ART and your new FAVOURITE FOODIE destination, we have these
places pegged as the NEXT HOT TICKET (so get there before EVERYO s).

BO NDIS SL EEP Y S OU T H CO AS T COU S I N

BERMAGUI, NSW
Swaddled by national park and with its iconic Blue Pool (just quietly, we think it could bump Icebergs
from its popularity podium if it was closer to Bondi), our soft spot for Bermagui is growing larger
by the day.The pretty seaside town on the Sapphire Coast is experiencing a swell of new cafes
and restaurants to complement its already undeniably beautiful natural assets, like Camel Rock and
Wallaga Lake. Head to Long Time No Sea (longtimenosea.com), which opened in December, for
brunch with an unbeatable view over Cuttagee Beach or book ahead for an intimate ne-dining
experience on Thursday, Friday or Saturday evenings.Bermagui has just evolved so much since
I moved here seven years ago but its still so simple and it keeps you in touch with whats
1
important in life, says Timenah Hunt of Gulaga Organics. visitbermagui.com.au

WO R D S : C E L E S T E M I TC H E L L

114 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 The 100 | Like a local

NO LONGER
UNDER LOCK
AND KEY
BEECHWORTH, VIC
It could be one of the prettiest towns
with an infamous criminal record. And
now the Beechworth Gaol which once
held Ned Kelly has been promised a
more glamorous life ahead after a
consortium of locals and investors
banded together to buy it last year.
While its set to become a centre of
excellence for young entrepreneurship
and a hub for the cycling groups that
whorl through Beechworth, new cafes, a
co-working space and accommodation
are all on the cards. For now, guided tours
of the gaol will take you back to the Kelly
Gang days. explorebeechworth.com.au
93
SEAFOOD, SHIPWRECKS & SORBET
M OON TA B AY, S A
The Yorke Peninsula is a nger of land with Innes National Park at its tip, and
looks a bit like Italys boot. Seafood is bountiful, surfers head for rugged beaches
like Pondalowie and Browns, and shipwrecks lie submerged offshore. Walking
is one of the best ways to explore this coastal frontier. Walk the Yorke is a
500-kilometre collection of trails stretching from Port Wakeeld to Moonta Bay,
a once-booming copper mining town that now lures families with its waterfront
Splash Park and homemade Italian gelato. People will drive from Adelaide for
the day just to have a gelato. The sorbets are very popular, too. We have our own
orchard, so we can we use our fruit, says Janette Martino from the Coffee Barn
&Gelateria in Moonta. moontaprogress.org.au

P H OTO G R A P H Y: M I C H A E L W E E ( M O O N TA B AY ); E L I S E H A S S E Y ( W I L D F LOW E R S ); C H R I S T I N E
S H A R P CO U RT E S Y O F S C E N I C R I M E AT LO C A L W E E K (S C E N I C R I M D I S H A N D C H I C K E N S )
 94
The 100 | Like a local

SILO-SIZED STREET
A RT I N V I C TO R I A S
T I N Y TOW N S
PATCHEWOLLOCK TO RUPANYUP, VIC
When Brisbane street artist Guido van Helten transformed
the towering decommissioned silos in the small country town
of Brim, none of the locals could have predicted what an effect
it would have. Curious travellers came ocking, a car park was
formed in front of the silos and the news reached international
shores. Now, the Wimmera-Mallee region is well on its way to
becoming Australias largest outdoor gallery with a new art trail
stretching 200 kilometres and linking some of Victorias smallest
towns. With artworks on silos in Patchewollock and Sheep Hills
since the Brim makeover, Rupanyup, Lascelles and Roseberry
are next, leading to the culmination of the official Silo Art Trail
in July aka a damn good reason for a road trip. siloarttrail.com

Y OUR N E W
FAVOUR I TE FO O DI E
DESTI NATI O N
THE SCENIC RIM, QLD
95
Technically a cluster of towns, this produce-rich
region one hours drive from Brisbane or the
Gold Coast also dishes up six national parks,
so eating and exertion come in equal measure.
Three things to buy:
1. A bottle of Reserve Selection Lona Sparkling from
OReillys Canungra Valley Vineyards. oreillys.com.au
2. Olives from Rathlogan Grove in Rathdowney.
rathlogangrove.com.au
3. Naughty Little Kids goats milk gelato in Peaks
Crossing, near Boonah. naughtylittlekids.com.au

Emerging out of Margaret Rivers shadow

MANJIMUP, WA
Twenty years ago the rst truffles were planted at The Truffle
& Wine Co. (truffleandwine.com.au) in Manjimup, just over 300
kilometres from Perth. Today, the region offers a bounty of
produce,truffle hunts and the annual Truffle Kerfuffle festival. We
asked Alex Wilson, senior sales and marketing manager for The
Truffle & Wine Co. what to do when were in town. manjimupwa.com
MUST-EAT .. . Truffle cheesecake from The Truffle & Wine Co.
STAY AT... Fontys Pool a massive man-made lake with

96
surrounding cabin, caravan and camping accommodation. All the
locals have a soft spot for Fontys.
WHILE YOURE HERE... Go canoeing at Big Brook Dam
or follow the bike trails in the Pemberton area, just down the road.

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 117
97
G O NOW
BE F OR E T H E
C ROWD S
P UNSA ND B AY,
CAPE Y OR K , QLD
WITH WORD THAT THE TRIP TO THE TIP COULD BE
PAVED IN BITUMEN BY AS EARLY AS 2020, GETTING
PROPERLY OFF THE GRID WILL BE HARDER THAN
Y OU V E B E E N T O
EVER. SO NOWS THE TIME TO PLAN YOUR CAPE MUDGEE , SO
YORK ADVENTURE. NEW BOUTIQUE OPERATIONS
LIKE ADVENTURE AUSTRALIA TREKS & TOURS WILL
WHATABOU T

98
TAKE YOU ON THE BACK ROADS, OR YOU CAN JUGIONG, NSW
JOINA TAG-ALONG IF YOUVE GOT YOUR OWN Sydneysiders who can sniff out a trend 300
WHEELS. AATT.COM.AU kilometres away are driving to Jugiong, on the
banksof the Murrumbidgee River, just to eat lunch
at The Sir George (sirgeorge.com.au). Opened in
December after a nine-month renovation of the
1852 pub (which had been in the same family for
165 years before the handover), the chic venue
houses a restaurant, sourdough bakery and beer
garden, with heritage-listed Cobb & Co. stables
accommodation coming at the end of this year.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: A N D R E W TA L LO N / T N Q ( P U N S A N D B AY ); R AC H A E L L E N E H A N
With a cafe and cooking school, The Long Track
Pantry (longtrackpantry.com.au), next door and the

( T H E S I R G E O RG E ); RO S I E D OW I E ( T H E V E LV E T LO U N G E ); A I M E E C L A I R E
Curators Collective (curatorscollective.com.au) just
up the road, were sensing a hint of Newrybar in
the Riverina, especially with its position just off
theHume Highway.

99 Folk festival meets foodies

( D U N S B O RO U G H N E A R YA L L I N G U P)

CYGNET, TAS
With tickets sold in record time for this years Cygnet Folk Festival
(cygnetfolkfestival.org) which has been running since 1982 buzz is
building around this hippie enclave, one hour from Hobart. Its always
been a magnet for creative types, but theres an undercurrent of
change afoot. There is a bit of foodie culture thats coming into
town, theres a wood-re bakery thats opened up just next door
and there are lots of small, vegetable growers and producers
around, says Joe Pickett, co-owner of vegetarian cafe The Velvet
Lounge. redvelvetlounge.com.au
 The 100 | Like a local

A surf and art

lov ers haven
YALLINGU P, WA
As well as luring surfers to its consistently
quality waves, Yals (as its affectionately
known) is an art-lovers paradise. Yallingup

100
Galleries (yallingupgalleries.com.au) is the
obvious rst port of call but you can
also pick up some amazing local art at
the markets, and follow the arts precinct
along Marrinup and Gunyulgup Drives.

THREE BREAKS TO SURF:

1. Smiths
2. Three Bears
3. Supertubes

AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 119
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t green travel experiences
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 CULTURE
inner beauty . walkabout . people . towns . whats on . lets go

PLAYA B Y L U C Y FOL K
This beachside boutique is a delightfully
feminine homage to the trinkets jewellery
designer Lucy Folk has collected during
her travels. Turn over for more.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: F E L I X F O R E S T
 CULTURE | Inner beauty

P R E T T Y
I N
P I N K
CANDY HUES and curvaceous, minimal
edges make jewellery designer LUCY FOLKs
new Bondi Beach store PLAYA a treasure trove
of PRETTY and elegantly curated curiosities.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Although bright and playful, designer

Tamsin Johnson kept the tones pared back to let the products shine; A wall
of chic shades; The intent was to create a resort-style space that suited Bondi.

NAME: L O C AT I O N : DESIGN FIRM:

P L AYA B Y L U C Y F O L K BONDI BE ACH TA M S I N J O H N S O N

P H O T O G R A P H Y: F E L I X F O R E S T

JEWELLERY DESIGNER Lucy Folk has
distilled the whimsical and playful designs of
her eponymous label into her second store,
which opened in Bondi Beach late last year.
For any girl whos ever fantasised about what
Barbies Malibu mansion walk-in wardrobe
might be like, this beachside store is as close as
youre likely to get. All candy pink and lled
with covetable sparkling accessories, sunglasses
and fashion, PLAYA by Lucy Folk is pure
feminine fun. The concept came from a desire
to create a space where I could showcase all
of my own designs with a strong resort theme
thats inspired by the fabulous things Ive
found when travelling, says Lucy, who chose
Bondi for its iconic status. Tamsin Johnson,
the interior designer tasked with transporting
Lucys unique and relaxed style to the coastal
suburb, says she wanted to capture the spirit
of Lucy while also making the store look like
it truly belonged in its new location. Tamsin
used a custom wall nish from France in a
faded pink render imprinted randomly with
shapes that echo Lucy Folk earring designs,
and joinery with soft edges for a calming effect.
The result is sure to catch Kens eye.
3/1113 Hall Street, Bondi Beach, NSW

128 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 Meeting the locals
has never been more
memorable

E X P LO R E B E AU T I F U L P E B B LY B E AC H AT AU S T R A L I A . C O M
 WAKE UP
 THE WILD
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Quote AUSTRAVEL when booking. Child rates also available.
 1

CULTURE | Walkabout
5
7

L OU ISE OL
The co-founder and CREATIVE DIRECTOR
of DINOSAUR DESIGNS, and daughter of artist
JOHN OLSEN, talks ADVENTURES in nature.
1. As a child, our family holidays were always... full of adventure.
Both my parents were artists, so they loved packing up the car with
paints and drawing materials and heading into the Australian landscape.
My mum loved painting wild Australian native owers and my dad, the
Australian landscape. Our travels would take us from the coastline of
Victoria up to Alice Springs. Lake Eyre (Lake Eyre The Desert Sea II,
2011, pictured below right) was a huge inspiration to my father so we
travelled there a few times to see the changing of the season, particularly
when it was full of water.
2. Now if I have time for a short break, I head straight to... 2
qualia Hamilton Island or Daintree EcoLodge & Spa. To be in
incredible nature is always the best retreat.
3. My locals tip for home town Sydney is... breakfast at Bills
followed by a walk and a swim at Bondi; I love being by the sea. If you
3
havent been to Sydney before you must go to the Opera House and
dine at Bennelong: it gives you a real sense of Sydneys amazing harbour.
4. My souvenir of choice is... something handmade from the
H O R N , $ 5 5 , D I N O S A U R D E S I G N S ; A L M A D E S I G N X TA B L E , P O A , M A R I O M A Z Z E R
( D E TA I L ), O L S E N G A L L E RY. P RO D U C T S : C L A S S I C R E S I N W I S H B O N E B A N G L E D A R K
T H E D E S E R T S E A I I 2 011, M I X E D M E D I A O N F R E N C H C O T T O N P A P E R , 16 0 X 12 0 C M

community of the area we are visiting.

P H O T O G R A P H Y: E L I S E H A S S E Y ( Q U A L I A ) . A R T W O R K : J O H N O L S E N , L A K E E Y R E

5. My last holiday read was... Alain de Bottons The News.

6. My travel wardrobe always consists of... Dinosaur Designs
jewellery, and I love bassike, Jac + Jack and Lee Mathews clothes that
are comfortable to travel in.
7. If money was no barrier, send me off to... Longitude 131 at
Uluru, to sleep under the stars in the quiet stillness of the landscape.
8. The most adventurous thing Ive ever done on holiday is...
visit Lake Eyre. The highlight of Lake Eyre is when it is full of water and
becomes teeming with life, with pelicans and many other Australian native
1&8
birds, sh and owers. It is wonderful to see so much life in the middle of
the Australian desert.
9. The best bed Ive ever slept in was... qualia Hamilton Island.
Not only the most comfortable bed, with the most amazing view of the
sea, it also feels like youre oating on water.
10. My favourite restaurant is... Seans Panaroma in Bondi. I love
the produce-driven plates that use ingredients grown in Seans garden in
the Blue Mountains. The food is always full of avour. Its unpretentious
and its views, which look out over Bondi Beach, are so magical
11. The last place I visited was... I just got back from Lond
New York because we have stores there. But for our last holida
went to COMO Maalifushi in the Maldives.
12. and the next place I am booked to go is Milan for
Design Week. Turn to page 62 for a special Dinosaur Designs offer
12
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 131
 CULTURE | People

W H A T I T S R E A L L Y L I K E

to dress Opera Australia

As Wardrobe and Wig Director at OPERA AUSTRALIA

LYN HEAL is tasked with bringing COSTUMES TO
LIFE onstage. She tells us how it all comes together,
WARDROBE MALFUNCTIONS and all.

Every day is different, but most of my time is
taken up with scheduling and costing shows. I have
to make sure there is plenty of work, or, if we have too much work,
that we get staff in. I also need to deal with designers and other
people in the company. I deal with singers a lot, organising when
theyre available for ttings and just keeping it all churning over.
We usually have about four to five productions in
the workroom at any one time. When a new production
comes in, we start working through each costume with the designer
to talk about the type of fabric and how they see the costumes
working. I need that information so I can cost out the show. Then
it just comes down to whether we can afford it or not. If not, its
back to the drawing board for a few changes to get it within budget.
We start working on a production a year in
advance. Weve just had the designs presented for a new
production, which well put on in Sydney in winter next year.
We denitely need all that time, especially to source and buy
fabrics about 80 per cent of our fabrics have to come in from
overseas these days, because theres nothing left in Australia.
The costumes are picked up and put down a bit
over that time. The rst couple of months might be buying
and collecting the materials needed. Then well start cutting and
putting the costumes together for a rst tting, but it may be put
down for a month or two while were working on other productions.
Theyre nished off just before we get to the stage.
How long a costume takes to make is a bit like how
long a piece of string is. Something contemporary could
be a couple of days. If youre talking about a period costume, youre
probably looking at anywhere between 60 and 120 hours.
All our costumes are made so they can be altered.
We allow large inside seams, so everything can be re-used. We
have costumes that have been on 10 different people, the seam
 allowance has moved in and out. Thats why things take longer.
If you were just making for a one-off performance youd probably
halve if not quarter that timeframe.
You always have serious wardrobe malfunctions.
Theres always something that will go wrong and it could be as
simple as the performer not doing up their petticoat properly, so
you see them on stage and suddenly their petticoat is on the oor.
One malfunction I had was in figaro and involved
a pair of black velvet breeches. The performer had to
sit with his legs open facing the audience and hed split the crotch
in them so you could see his white undies quite clearly. I think he
knew afterwards, but not at the time.
I have people say to me, Oh, you must love going
to costume parties. I cant think of anything worse!
I love putting them on other people, I love being a part of the
manufacturing of them but, no, I dont need to wear them myself.
We have a lot of tours come through and theyre
always in awe of the workroom. Its quite a large
workroom and we do some amazing things. I think a lot of people
see the opera or any production and the costume is such a part
of the whole thing that they dont really acknowledge it, which is
probably good. It all blends into the wonderful performance. But
I think people are surprised when they come here and see the work
and effort that goes into producing costumes.
There have been a few expensive costumes. Its very
I N T E R V I E W : L A R A P I C O N E . P H O T O G R A P H Y: R E B E C C A X U
much up to the designer. One designer decided he was going to
spend all his money on the principals and dress the chorus out of
what we class as dead stock, which is old shows that are no longer
performed. He pulled all of the costumes out of our dead stock,
threw them into a dye pot and we put them on the chorus. Then he
spent the money on his principals they looked absolutely amazing.
Wigs come under my jurisdiction. Most of the wigs for
the principals are real human hair. The chorus all have one to two
wigs each made from human hair that they re-style for different
shows, and then well ll in with other things such as synthetic wigs.
The wigs depend on the show. If were doing The
Pearlshers or Lakm, where they need long black hair, then we
obviously put them in a wig. For contemporary productions, we
tend to use peoples own hair. But a lot of performers like to have
a wig because they can just shove it on and go on stage. They dont
have to sit for hours getting their hair done. In a way, we prefer it,
too, because we have more control.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Costumes
remain at the Opera Centre until theyre
off-production; Large rooms lined with
shoes ensure performers are well-shod; Wigs
at the ready; Fabric is bought from overseas.
OPPOSITE PAGE: Costumes are
cleaned, packed and sent to a storage facility
after a show; Lyn in the workshop.
The chorus dont get a say in their costumes.
But we obviously make them very comfortable, we take into
consideration their quirks and perks. The principals have a lot
more say. They have to perform and they have to be comfortable,
so thats a conversation between the designer and performer as to
what works for them and still looks good. Sometimes the design
has to be changed a lot to accommodate the performer.
Some female principals love wearing a really
tight corset. They can push against it when theyre breathing.
We had one performer who was in The Pearlshers and the designer
had chosen a sari with a
bare midriff and she said,
I cant do that, I need
to wear a corset to sing,
so the designer had to
put the singer in a
corset, which is totally
different to what it
should be. Theres also
the opposite, where
singers cant handle
anything tight, so you
put this corset on that theyre just swimming in and its doing
absolutely nothing, but they cant bear it being tight.
a lot of male performers struggle with period
trousers. The trousers come up quite high, where theyre
breathing, and most men dont like the feeling of the trousers being
up there. Also youre ghting against todays fashion, where its all
down around the hips. It becomes a bit of a negotiation sometimes.
My job needs a lot of patience, It sometimes gets
tested quite a bit. But I love the excitement of getting a
new production and the challenges that sets out for me in as far as
getting it within the price range. Being creative, working together
and solving problems is the part I really enjoy.
Tours run at The Opera Centre in Sydneys Surry Hills every weekday.
Visit opera.org.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 133
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 3
8
CULTURE

ks hit list

6am:
Start the day bright and early on the M A L E N Y
TR AI L (maleny.qld.au/maleny-trail), and catch a
glimpse of a platypus at sunrise, if youre lucky.
8am: Breakfast with the locals
Now that youve worked up an appetite, head to
MAPLE 3 C A FE (facebook.com/maple3cafe) for
great coffee (1).You cant go past their classic BLT.
10am: Books and brew
The third Thursday of each month is market
day at the local IG A , where local producers
showcase their products.Take a stroll along
2 Maple Street and check out the boutique shops.
ROSETTA B OOKS is one of my favourites with
O N E 9
a coffee shop to boot (2). Also on Maple Street
6 is COLIN JA MES FINE FOOD S (colinjames
F I N E nefoods.com.au), renowned for the best
ice-cream in Queensland (3). Make sure you

D A Y try some of the more exotic avours, such

tachio and rosewater.The fromagerie
ust-do if youre a cheese lover (4).

Maleny
12pm: Enjoy a paddle
der to Coral Street and visit the BROUHAHA
ERYY (brouhahabrewery.com.au), our newest
1 brewery (5). Sample a small selection of
5 on tap with a beer paddle and grab lunch
youre there. I recommend the salt and
p pper mushrooms with wasabi yuzu dressing.
We nd a LOCAL to give 2pm: Treat yourself
After lunch, wander next door to M UK T I
us A TASTE of what makes OR GANI CS (muktiorganics.com) and discover
Australias premium range of eco-luxe, certied
their HOME TOWN special. organic skincare products (6).
2:30pm: Garden views
P H OTO G R A P H Y: K R I S TA E P P E L S T U N ( B RO U H A H A B R E W E RY ); E L I S E H A S S E Y

MORE THAN 10 years ago, Mark Skinner
and his wife, Joanne, were on the hunt for a
tree-change to escape the corporate world.
They found salvation in the sister towns of
Maleny and Montville and, before they knew it,
they were the proud owners of Narrow Escape
Rainforest Retreat. Today, Mark is still in love
with his friendly, rainforest encircled home.
Here, he takes us on a tour of the perfect day.
T HE N ITTY GRITTY:
(G L A S S H O U S E M O U N TA I N S )
Take a drive to the MALENY B OTA N I C
G ARDEN S (malenybotanicgardens.com.au) to
see exotic ora with the awe-inspiring Glass
House Mountains as the backdrop (7 & 8).
7 4pm: Discover Montville
No trip to the hinterland is complete without
a visit to M ONTVILL E , a 15-minute drive from
Maleny along Balmoral Ridge with breathtaking
views.Take your time wandering the village, until
dinner, when theres no shortage of options.
7pm: Dine at Altitude
A LTITUDE O N M ONTVILL E (altitudeonmontville.
com.au) has a superb menu created by local chef

W H E R E E X AC T LY ? A one-and-a-half hour drive Matt Golinski.The taro chips with coconut and
from Brisbane. turmeric yoghurt are moreish, and the goats
Roughly 3400 people live here.
P O P U L AT I O N : cheese and chard tortellini highly recommended.
WHATS IT ALL ABOUT? Set in the Sunshine Coast 8pm: Make your escape
Hinterland, its a cool retreat in the shade of the Spend the night at our place, the ve-star
Glass House Mountains. NA RROW S ESC A PE RA INFOR E ST R E T R E AT
W H Y G O ? Lush and tropical, Maleny and its nearby (narrowsescape.com.au), for some well-deserved
town Montville have a calming, relaxed vibe. tranquillity in the rainforest (9).
 CULTURE | Whats on

UNTIL 4 JUNE
TH E RIG HT TO
M AY J U N E O F F E N D I S S AC R E D
N G V, M E L B O U R N E , V I C

26 17
VIVID SYDNEY
Brook Andrew likes
to stir the pot, challenging
notions of colonialism, identity
and race with works in light,
sculpture and on canvas. See a
V A R I O U S L O C AT I O N S ,
S Y D N E Y, N S W
collection of his most notable
works here. ngv.vic.gov.au
Sydneys festival of light,
ideas and music returns
with another stellar line-up UNTIL 25 APRIL
THE SELL
that includes Goldfrapp, N L A , C ANB E RR A , ACT
AIR, Laura Marling, See how Australian advertising
Nick Murphy and an has reected shifting cultural
exclusive performance by climes over the centuries with
this collection of ads from all the
The Avalanches of their way back in the 1790s, through
seminal debut Since I Left to the Mad Men-esque 50s and
You. vividsydney.com up to the 1990s. nla.gov.au

W H ATS ON
EVENT TRAVEL is a thing now, didnt you know? That is,
building your trip around an event. Find INSPIRATION in
one of these fantastic EXHIBITIONS AND FESTIVALS.

1 9 2 8 M AY
UNTIL JUNE
O R D VA L L E Y M U S T E R

TRANSFORMATIONS:
25 KU N U N U R R A , WA
Breakfast by Fervor chef Paul
Iskov and music from the likes
of Jimmy Barnes make this
muster as good an excuse as any
ART OF THE to head to this beautiful portion
of WA. ordvalleymuster.com.au
SCOTT SISTERS
A U S T R A L I A N M U S E U M , S Y D N E Y, N S W
Discover the wonderfully intricate 5 2 1 M AY
H I G H C O U N T RY
studies of butteries and botany H A RV E S T
by 19th-century natural history N O RTH - E A S T V I C TO R I A
Explore the rich offerings
illustrators Helena and Harriet Scott. ofVictorias High Country
australianmuseum.net.au with dinners from chefs
including MoVidas Scott
Stevenson, cider tastings, salami
sessions, muscat appreciation,
brewing lessons and more.
highcountryharvest.com.au

136 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
 2830 APRIL
W I D E O P E N S PAC E
F E S T I VA L
R O S S R I V E R R E S O RT, N T
This crazy festival is our answer
to Burning Man; hundreds
descend on the desert of the
East MacDonnell Ranges for
three days of music, art and
expression. wideopenspace.net.au

6 7 M AY
GRAMPIANS GRAPE
ESCAPE
H A L L S G A P, V I C
Join festival chef Adam
Liaw on the edge of the
Grampians National Park
for a merry weekend of the
UNTIL APRIL

17
P H O T O G R A P H Y: N G V ( P O L E M I C S , B R O O K A N D R E W, C O U R T E S Y O F T O L A R N O G A L L E R I E S , M E L B O U R N E ) ; A U S T R A L I A N M U S E U M

regions nest food and wine.

grampiansgrapeescape.com.au
(S COT T S I S T E R S PA I N T I N G); U N D E R T H E S U N (S A R A O S C A R P L E A S A N T I S L A N D ( T H E PAC I F I C S O L U T I O N )); Y I DA K I (S T E P H E N

U N T I L J U LY UNDER THE SUN: REIMAGINING

MAX DUPAINS SUNBAKER
16
YIDAKI:
S TAT E L I B R A R Y O F N S W , S Y D N E Y , N S W

Max Dupains iconic photograph, Sunbaker (1937),

a striking piece of modernism that speaks of the
DIDJERIDU Australian identity, is explored by 15 artists at this
AND THE exhibition, using Dupains masterpiece to question our
SOUND OF
sense of nationhood and culture today. sl.nsw.gov.au
G O L D S M IT H , K AU R N A E L D E R . P H OTO CO U RT E S Y O F S O U T H AU S TR A L I A N M U S E U M )

AUSTRALIA
SOUTH AUSTR ALIAN
MUSEUM, ADELAIDE, SA
This ground-
breaking exhibition
of sound, story and
image explores the
yidaki (didgeridoo)
and its meaning to
the Yolngu people.
SAMUSEUM.SA.GOV.AU
1 9 2 2 M AY
C L A R E VA L L E Y
GOURMET WEEKEND
C L A R E VA L L E Y, S A
Long table lunches, barrel hall
dinners, tastings and a gourmet
market make the Clare Valley
even more special on this
weekend. clarevalley.com.au

1 8 2 1 M AY 2225 APRIL
NOOSA FOOD & TJUNGU INDIGENOUS
W I N E F E S T I VA L C U LT U R A L F E S T I V A L
NOOSA, QLD AY E R S R O C K R E S O R T ,
With a boardriders breakfast, ULURU, NT
dinners in beach tipis and a A family-friendly showcase
wine and produce village in the of the stunning variety and
woods, it seems that Noosa breadth of indigenous culture in
knows how to throw a food and the spiritual heart of the land,
wine party that taps into the with aboriginal dance and arts,
best of its ne natural assets. traditional and contemporary
noosafoodandwine.com.au music. ayersrockresort.com.au
 CULTURE | Lets go...

YE E HAW! I M A The country? What

R E A DY TO H E A D TO
CO U NTRY G A L /
is that? Some kind
G U Y AT H E A RT.
of retirement
WHERE WE TH E CO U NTRY ?
G O I N G , M AT E ? village for horses?

OH, I MISUNDERSTOOD. No, I dont think so. Wide open

Alright! Do you want WHE N YOU SAID spaces make me anxious. I like NO, THATS
to skip through CO U N T RY, I T H O U G H T
the safety of the concrete jungle
PASTURE. THE
meadows singing The YOU M E ANT ACTUAL COUNTRY IS
CO U N T RY. YO U K N OW, with its calming espresso martinis
Hills Are Alive? LOVELY. YOULL
S L I M D U S T Y, RO D E O S , and alarming CO2 levels. LIKE IT.
A TOYOTA H I L U X I N
E V E RY D R I V E WAY ?
UH, YEAH, OBVIOUSLY!
OK, HORSE
THERED BETTER BE A WHISPERER,
HEAVY FROLIC QUOTA THE PEOPLE
WE GE T YOU, COWGIRL . THE AT WAT S O N S
WHERE WERE GOING. WELL COME
N S W TOW N O F TA M WO RT H M O U N TA I N
BACK FOR YOU,
I S J U ST THE PL ACE FOR YOU TRAIL RIDES
O R M AY B E W E
TO WORK ON YOU R WHIP- IN THE
W O N T
CR ACKING SKILLS. VIC HIGH
CO U NTRY
Apart from frolic, what WILL LOOK
else would you like to do? AF TER YOU.

THE COUNTRY IS ALL ABOUT

DOING THINGS. MY SLEEVES ARE
ROLLED AND IM RARING TO GO.
L E T S J U S T S AY
F THERE WAS A
CO U NTRY LI F E I S
O R S E I N VO LV E D
THE GOOD LIFE,
How active are we talking? Do you A N D M AY B E
S O T H AT M U S T
A S O M E W H AT
MEAN A BIT OF want to enter the CWA baking comp SNOWY RIVER, ID
PAMPERING AND
or put that Akubra to good use? B E ( N E RVO U S LY )
INDULGENCE?
DELIGHTED.
THE CWA ARE
FOOD AND WINE, FAR TOO
BY INDULGENCE, THEN A STROLL COMPETITIVE
YOURE TALKING BEFORE MORE FOOD FOR ME. MY TA K E A
AND WINE. COOKING
FRUITCAKE C L A S S AT
CANT STAND UP STICKY RICE IN
Oh, not much just a little TO THAT KIND THE ADELAIDE
full-body scrub, hot-stone Bacchus would be HILLS ITS
OF SCRUTINY! JUDGEMENT
massage and pedicure proud. But if you had GOT ANYTHING FREE.

in an idyllic, to choose between an GENTLER?

Instagram-worthy tow emphasis on food or
wine, which would it be?

CALM DOWN.
V I C TO R I A S S PA PACK YOU R
C A P I TA L O F BAGS AND
DAY L E S F O R D HEAD TO THE ELASTIC-
WILL HAVE FOOD BOWL NOT LEAVING WAIST PANTS
CHOOSE?!
YOU B U FFED OF NOOSA AND WITH A W H AT AND HEAD
AND POLISHED. THE SUNSHINE TO RED HILL
SPARE US THE COA S T. BOOT-FULL OF HEINOUS
ON THE
DRESSING WINE IS A GOOD REQUEST MORNINGTON
GOWN SELFIE. IS THIS? PENINSULA.
THING, I GUESS.

138 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
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