$35 USD

ROBERTS
3 4 5 T O P C H E E S E M A K E R S F R O M 4 3 S TA T E S !

“Innovative but rooted in tradition, American artisan cheese production is making great strides for- The Atlas of
AMERICAN
ward. Its quality and diversity are masterfully recorded in The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese.”
—Jacques Pépin, chef, cookbook author, and host of numerous PBS-TV cooking series

“The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese proves that there is a rich, thriving world of flavor, quality, and

ARTISAN
tradition abroad in the land. This enormous undertaking by cheese aficionado Jeffrey Roberts makes
us feel proud of what can come from American soil, passion, and culture. Bravo to Jeffrey and all the
American artisan cheesemakers!” —Deborah Madison, author of Local Flavors:

AMERICAN ARTISAN CHEESE

Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers Markets

“Chock-full of charming cheesemaker stories and explanations of the cheeses they make, The Atlas of
American Artisan Cheese provides us with an indispensable road map to American cheeses and helps
us navigate the ever-growing collection made from California to Maine.” —Laura Werlin, author of
The New American Cheese
CHEESE
“Jeff Roberts has been a driving force in the movement to develop world-class artisan cheeses here in Jeffrey P. Roberts

The Atlas of
the United States. In his new book, he shows us—farm by farm and cheese by cheese—why we have
cause to celebrate. Roberts proves this movement has finally come of age.” —Rob Kaufelt, proprietor of
Murray’s Cheese and author of The Murray’s Cheese Handbook
F O R E W O R D S B Y

CARLO PETRI NI
he first reference of its kind, this fully illustrated atlas of contemporary artisan cheeses Slow Food International

T and cheesemakers will be the source of many a fabulous food adventure. Organized by
region and state, The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese highlights 345 of the best cheese-
makers in the United States today, most of them tiny, family-owned creameries. Each profile
ALLI SON HOOPER
American Cheese Society
describes a cheesemaker; its history; its cheeses, whether from cow, sheep, or goat’s milk; avail-
ability; location; details on cheese-making processes; and suggestions for the best wine and beer
pairings. The Atlas captures America’s genius for local artisan cheese: a capacity for adaptation,
experimentation, and innovation, while following Old World artisanship and traditional methods.

Jeff Roberts helped establish the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese at the University
of Vermont. He is a national director with Slow Food USA and co-chaired “Artisan
Cheeses of America” at Cheese 2001 and 2003 in Bra, Italy. He lives in Montpelier,
Vermont. Carlo Petrini is the founder and president of the International Slow Food
Movement. Allison Hooper is president of the American Cheese Society.
CHELSEA GREEN

ISBN 978-1-933392-34-9
CHELSEA GREEN PUBLISHING 53500
White River Junction, Vermont
802-295-6300
www.chelseagreen.com
Cover design by Peter Holm
Cover photo by Julie Cahn, Courtesy of Coach Farm, Inc.
Author photo by Lizzari Photographic 9 781933 392349
01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 1:56 PM Page 15
APPLETON CREAMERY
f you live in Maine or are vacationing
I there during the summer, a trip to a
Midcoast farmers’ market will intro-
duce you to Caitlin Hunter. Sometimes accom-
panied by husband Brad and daughter Fiona,
she will soon have you appreciating her vari-
eties of goat cheese. The creamery, located on
a small family farm in Appleton, near Camden,
makes handcrafted, award-winning cheese
using traditional methods. In 1979, after
developing an interest in dairy goats, Caitlin
became one of Maine’s pioneer cheesemakers,
and for fifteen years made cheese for home
consumption. She points out that Maine’s
working landscape of scrubby pasture and
woodland is ideal for goats because they prefer
to browse on a wide variety of plants rather
than grazing exclusively on grass. Licensed in
1994, today she makes between 6,000 and
7,000 pounds of various chèvre, most of which
is sold at local farmers’ markets and a few
retail outlets. In 2004, she inaugurated a line
of cheese made from a neighbor’s sheep’s milk.
continued next page
NEW ENGLAND • Maine
Established: 1994
Owners: Caitlin and Brad
Hunter
Cheesemaker: Caitlin Hunter
Address: 780 Gurney Town
Road, Appleton, ME 04862
Telephone: Unlisted
Email: info@appletoncreamery.com
Web site: www.appletoncreamery.com
Visitors: By appointment
Types: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and
some raw American Alpine goat’s milk; some
cow’s and sheep’s milk
Varieties of cheese:
Goat
• Chèvre. Fresh pasteurized cheese in
various-sized containers
• Marinated chèvre. Fresh pasteurized;
marinated in olive oil, roasted garlic, and
herbs; ACS
• Chèvre buttons in oil. Fresh pasteurized
medallions in olive oil, rosemary, juniper
berries, and hot peppers; ACS
• Sennebec. Fresh pasteurized chèvre with
herbes de Provence
• Feta. Traditional, dense and salty; both
goat’s and sheep’s milk
• Crofter’s Cheese. Aged two months;
washed curd, semi-soft, creamy; 5 pound
wheels; ACS
• Caprino di Vino. Aged two months; semi-
firm, marinated in Maine blueberry wine;
5 pound wheel
Sheep
• Scarborough Faire. Pasteurized fresh, with
fresh herbs
• BreBrie. Pasteurized Brie-style; bloomy-
rind, creamy; 6 ounce round
• Georges Highland. Aged three to four
months; semi-firm, buttery, nutty; 5 pound
tomme
Cow
• Knox Gold. Aged six months; dense, but-
tery; 25 pound wheel
• Camdenbert. Pasteurized; bloomy-rind;
3 pound wheel
• St. Bridget. Aged six to eight weeks;
pasteurized; 2 pound square
• Granite Kiss. Fresh, pasteurized; bloomy-
rind, ash-coated; 6 ounce round
Awards: Numerous awards from the American
Cheese Society
Where to find: Numerous Maine farmers’
markets and mail order; distribution to
Maine retailers
01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 1:56 PM Page 16

APPLETON CREAMERY continued

One cold September Saturday, wandering through the Common

Ground Fair in Union, Maine, we discovered Caitlin Hunter and
Appleton Creamery. Specifically, we found chèvre buttons in oil, a
revelation in taste for us and a cheese we look for whenever visiting
Maine. These half-dollar-sized rounds are packed in good olive oil,
rosemary, and hot pepper, all of which complement the rich,
creamy cheese and challenge you to eat just one. They are terrific
as an appetizer, an accompaniment to a green salad, or on a dessert
plate. Or, better still, it’s a perfect cheese to eat while relaxing on
summer’s day with any of the following beverages. Serve with:
Sparkling semi-dry cider• Sparkling dry Riesling • Pilsner or India
Pale Ale

16 Maine • NEW ENGLAND

02 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:14 PM Page 253

BUTLER FARMS

n 1990, Janet and Bill Butler acquired

I their first dairy sheep to help supply

milk to Hollow Road Farm, the pre-
cursor to Old Chatham Sheepherding
Established: 1995
Owners and cheese-
makers: Janet and Bill
Butler
Company in New York (see page 137). Janet Address: W13184 Sjuggerud Road, Whitehall,
worked at the creamery and gained valuable WI 54773
experience that contributed to their success Telephone: 715-983-2285
when they moved to western Wisconsin in Email: butr@triwest.net
1993. The 280-acre Butler Farm, located Web site: None
approximately halfway between Madison and Visitors: By appointment
St. Paul, Minnesota, was one of the first Types: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and
raw Dorset, Lacaune, and Tunis sheep’s milk
licensed sheep dairies in the country. In 1995, and some cow’s milk
Janet and Bill began yogurt production, and Varieties of cheese:
two years later introduced a small group of • Brebis. Fresh; soft spread; 6 ounce con-
handmade cheeses. tainer
• Brebis button. Fresh; soft, herb-flavored;
At one time they milked many more animals, 4 ounce button
made more cheese, and sold products • Feta. Fresh; lightly salted; 4–6 ounce
throughout the region. Several years ago, they squares
decided to move to a seasonal operation and • Ricotta. Fresh; whey-based curd; 6 ounce
container
limit sales to the Dane County farmers’ market, • Aged tomme. Aged two weeks; soft ripened
where they sell direct to customers. Janet con- bloomy-rind; 5–6 ounce ovals, rounds, or
tinues to refine her cheese and, after recent squares
• Aged cheese. Aged two months; raw
experiments, added a soft ripened cow-sheep sheep’s milk; 2 pound wheel
cheese that sells out at the market. • Camembert. Aged two weeks; mixed cow’s
and sheep’s milk, soft ripened bloomy-rind;
5–6 ounce ovals, rounds, or squares
Where to find: Dane County farmers’ market
in Madison

UPPER MIDWEST • Wisconsin 253

02 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:13 PM Page 220
LOCUST GROVE FARM
hat do you get when you blend
W attention to detail, a passion for
sheep and herding dogs, ministry,
visionary ideals, and a commitment to quality?
You discover the unique cheeses of Sheri
Palko and Tim Clark at Locust Grove Farm.
For many years, Tim, a Baptist minister, raised
sheep, while Sheri, a software engineer, bred
and competed with herding dogs. Their friend-
ship and collaboration brought the best of
these worlds together with an interest in
making cheese using traditional methods. The
partners emphasize how careful stewardship of
animals and land is the foundation upon which
to create outstanding cheese. Tim spent time in
Scotland with Allen Brown, who makes a
sheep’s milk cheese called Cairnsmore. Using
Mr. Brown’s recipe, Sheri and Tim make
Galloway Farmhouse Cheese, named in his
honor. Every step is done by hand, especially
working the curd, packing the hoops, and the
careful aging process. Using European models,
they constructed an aging room to maintain
constant humidity and temperature and
encourage native microflora development,
which in turn creates another distinctive flavor
component.
220
Established: 2006
Owners and cheesemakers:
Sheri Palko and Tim Clark
Address: 500 Mountain Breeze
Lane, Knoxville, TN 37934
Telephone: 865-388-4123
Email: sheri@locustgrovefarm.net;
tim@locustgrovefarm.net
Web site: www.locustgrovefarm.net
Visitors: By appointment
Types: Farmstead, seasonal raw East Friesian
sheep’s milk and some pasteurized Jersey
cow’s milk
Varieties of cheese:
• Galloway’s Farmhouse Cheese. Aged three
to five months; natural rind, semi-hard,
moist, buttery; 4–5 pound wheels
• Galloway’s Farmhouse Mélange. Aged three
to five months; blended cow’s and sheep’s
milk, natural rind, semi-firm, complex
flavor; 4–5 pound wheels
• Appalachian Spring. Aged two to four
months; washed curd, natural rind, semi-
firm, smooth, nutty; 1.3 pound wheel
• Appalachian Spring Mélange. Aged two to
four months; washed curd, natural rind,
semi-firm, smooth, buttery, nutty;
1.3 pound wheel
Where to find: On-premises retail, mail order,
farmers’ markets, and local distribution
Tennessee • THE SOUTH
02 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:26 PM Page 406
MONTEILLET FROMAGERIE
oan and Pierre-Louis Monteillet make
J cheese on a 27-acre farm situated on
the Touchet River in the Walla Walla
Valley of southeastern Washington. In
1978, Joan, who grew up in the state’s Palouse
region, met Frenchman Pierre-Louis in
Mexico; they shared an interest in farming,
and for a year traveled the world to learn about
agriculture. They returned to Washington, got
married, and took over the operation of a
2,000-acre wheat ranch, owned by Joan’s
father. Subsequent travels to France helped
shape their vision for farming, and by 1996
they were ready to move on. Further research,
opportunities to make cheese in France, and a
desire to farm sustainably led to their farm in
Dayton.
In 2002, after a year of construction and
final permitting, they opened for business with
goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses. Initially, they
sold products at local farmers’ markets and to
a growing number of excellent Walla Walla
Valley restaurants. Demand for their cheese
grew dramatically as people noticed their dis-
tinctive qualities. In addition to some regional
distribution, they currently attend the Portland
and Seattle farmers’ markets.
In the past twenty years, wheat growing has
declined in the region, and at least fifty
wineries have opened to take advantage of the
favorable climate and soils. Joan and Pierre-
Louis see these shifts as important changes to
conventional agriculture and as opportunities
Established: 2002
Owners and cheesemakers: Joan and Pierre-
Louis Monteillet
Address: 109 Ward Road, Dayton, WA 99328
Telephone: 509-382-1917
Email: None
Web site: www.montecheese.com
Visitors: Yes; Saturday–Sunday, 1–5 pm
Types: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and
raw French Alpine goat’s milk and cross-
breed Friesian-Lacaune sheep’s milk
Varieties of cheese (partial list):
Goat
• Chèvre. Fresh; soft, mild, plain or herbs;
6 ounce container
• Larzac. Aged two weeks; soft ripened, ash
layer, smooth, nutty; 6–8 ounce cylinders or
10–12 ounce pyramids
• Cardabelle. Aged two weeks; soft ripened
bloomy-rind, rich, tangy; 4 ounce disk
Sheep
• Mejean. Aged two weeks; soft ripened
bloomy-rind, soft, unctuous; 7 ounce round
• Cardabelle. Aged two weeks; sheep’s milk
version
Blended pasteurized or raw milk
• Causse Noir. Aged two to four months;
natural rind, creamy, dense, full-flavored;
2–4 pound wheel
Where to find: Mail order, and Beaverton,
Portland, and Seattle farmers’ markets
to connect good cheese and wine together in
the same place. They envision this blending of
eastern Washington terroir and French inspira-
tion will result in exciting unique cheeses that
express new cultural tastes and flavors.
01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 11/6/07 8:49 AM Page 178

EVERONA DAIRY

verona Dairy is located in the village of

E the same name in Virginia’s Piedmont,

northeast of Charlottesville. Pat Elliott,
a physician, has lived and practiced in the
Established: 1998
Owner and cheese-
maker: Pat Elliott
Address: 23246 Clarks
community for many years. In 1992, she Mountain Road,
bought a Border Collie and then purchased Rapidan, VA 22733
some sheep, so the dog would have something Telephone: 540-854-4159
to do. The sheep, in turn, opened the door to Email: Everona@vabb.com
Pat’s cheesemaking, and since 1998 she has Web site: www.everonadairy.com
produced some of the country’s best sheep Visitors: By appointment
cheese. For many years, she made cheese con- Types: Farmstead, seasonal, raw East Friesian
sheep’s milk
currently with her medical practice, which is
Varieties of cheese:
housed in a separate building on the farm. • Piedmont. Aged two to ten months; natural
Managing sheep and making cheese is a major rind, firm, nutty, buttery; 1.5 and 6 pound
commitment; coupled with a medical practice, wheels; also cracked pepper and other
flavors; ACS
it seems unimaginable! • Stony Man. Aged three to ten months;
natural rind, hard, dry, nutty, caramel;
6 pound wheel
• Pride of Bacchus. Aged two to ten months;
natural rind soaked in red wine, fruity;
6 pound wheel
Awards: 2005 American Cheese Society, First
Place
Where to find: Local farmers’ markets and
selected retailers nationwide

For four hundred years, farmers from Thomas Jefferson to contemporary growers have recognized the dis-
tinctive qualities of Virginia’s Piedmont. Today, cheesemakers are capturing the region’s terroir in their
products. Everona Dairy describes how the limestone ridge, red Piedmont soil, abundant water, and tem-
perate climate contribute to lush grasses and other plants—just the menu for great sheep’s milk.
Everona’s Piedmont is truly a hands-on effort, since the dairy uses a 20-gallon vat to make all of its
cheeses, often several times a day. They ladle curds into molds that impart a distinctive knobby pattern to
the rind. During the six-month maturation period, the rind turns a rich brown color, while the paste
develops a beautiful golden-brown hue with aromas of grass and herbs, and complex flavors of nuts and
butter. Serve with: Still hard cider • Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling wine • Pilsner or India Pale Ale

178 Virginia • MID-ATLANTIC

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 11/20/07 7:46 AM Page 166
OTTERBEIN ACRES
he Fisher family—John, Lena, and
T their six children—are Old Order
Amish farmers in Newburg, a small
town west of Carlisle. Otterbein Acres is a 96-
acre sheep and cow farm and dairy. Their son,
Paul, lives a mile away, and they buy all their
milk from his nine Jersey cows. Since they use
no electricity, John designed a mechanical
carousel to milk approximately forty ewes; all
their sheep milk and Paul’s Jersey milk goes
into the vat to make cheese. Daughter Katie is
the principal cheesemaker, supported by Lena
and John. They rely on hand labor—stirring,
cutting curd, and packing hoops—to make
each cheese; the wheels then mature on
wooded planks in an underground cellar.
The conveniences so common to the rest of
America are not part of Old Order Amish his-
tory and contemporary life. The Amish and
Mennonite rejection of technology may repre-
sent the closest expression of what “tradi-
tional” means in American cheese history.
Without reliance on machinery or the latest
technology, they make cheese within a well-
established framework of handwork, attention
to land and animals, craftsmanship, and intu-
ition. And yet, avoidance of the modern does
not mean a rejection of knowledge. For
example, the Fishers attended cheesemaking
classes taught by Kathy Biss, a well-respected
English consultant and teacher. They now
make traditional English-style Cheddar,
wrapped in muslin, coated with lard, and aged
166
Established: 2005
Owner: Lena and John Fisher
Cheesemaker: Katie Fisher
Address: 10071 Otterbein Church Road,
Newburg, PA 17240
Telephone: 717-423-6689
Email: None
Web site: None
Visitors: Yes; Monday–Friday, 7 am–8 pm;
Saturday, 7 am–5 pm; closed Sunday
Types: Farmstead, seasonal raw East Friesian,
Dorset, and Romanov crossbreed sheep’s
milk and some Jersey cow’s milk
Varieties of cheese:
Sheep
• Ewe’s Dream. Aged two to four months;
semi-firm; 2 pound wheel
• Ricotta. Fresh; whey-based curds
Cow
• Cheddar. Aged four months; bandage- and
lard-wrapped, firm, complex flavor; 2 pound
wheel
• Gouda. Aged four months; washed curd;
waxed 3 pound wheel
Cow and sheep
• Manchego. Aged five months; waxed;
2 pound wheel
Where to find: On-premises retail and local
stores
to a delightful maturity. Their Manchego, made
with sheep’s and cow’s milks, reflects an
understanding and appreciation for how great
milk leads to distinctive cheese.
Pennsylvania • MID-ATLANTIC
01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:03 PM Page 81
PEAKED MOUNTAIN FARM
lthough Ann and Bob Works are from
A Minnesota, for generations his family
farmed along the Connecticut River
in Vermont and New Hampshire. For years
they lived outside New York City; Bob’s com-
pany managed the renovations of Grand
Central Station. Arriving in Vermont in 1998
and wanting to create a “totally unique food
experience,” they bought the former Old
Morgan Horse Farm and transformed it into a
modern sheep dairy and cheesemaking facility.
After apprenticing with Cindy and David
Major, they started production of Vermont
Shepherd cheese. A few years ago, in addition
to the cheese made for Vermont Shepherd, they
added their own varieties and diversified the
farm’s products. Today, their annual produc-
tion is approximately 6,000 pounds, and farm
visitors may enjoy cheese, bread from a small
artisan bakery, lamb and pork meat and
sausage, maple syrup, and blueberry scones.
They use the cheese whey to fertilize the
bushes and to feed the pigs!
continued next page
NEW ENGLAND • Vermont
Established: 1999
Owners and cheesemakers:
Ann and Bob Works
Address: 1541 Peaked
Mountain Road, Townshend,
VT 05353
Telephone: 802-365-4502
Email: pkmtfarm@sover.net
Web site: www.vtcheese.com
Visitors: By appointment
Types: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and
raw East Friesian sheep and some cow’s and
goat’s milks
Varieties of cheese:
• Bo-Peep. Pasteurized, fresh; Camembert-
style; bloomy-rind; creamy; 6 ounce round
• Vermont Dandy. Aged four to twelve
months; natural rind; semi-hard, buttery;
6–8 pound wheel
• Woodpeckerino. Aged eight months; nat-
ural rind; hard, Italian pecorino-style;
6–8 pound wheel
• Feta. Aged twelve months; marinated in
olive oil with rosemary, garlic, bay leaf,
black peppercorns, sun-dried tomatoes,
and juniper berries
• Vermont Maiden. Aged six to nine months;
50 percent sheep’s milk/50 percent goat’s
milk; natural rind; 2–5 pound round
• Ewe–Jersey. Aged three to nine months;
50 percent sheep’s milk/50 percent cow’s
milk; natural rind; 7–9 pound wheel
Where to find: On-premises retail, Brattleboro
farmers’ market and Co-op, and selected
retailers in Boston, New York, and San Diego
81
01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:03 PM Page 82

PEAKED MOUNTAIN FARM continued

Ann and Bob Works like to experiment with their cheese, constantly searching for ways to capture the
farm’s terroir in their products. Their sheep eat lush grass flavored with wild mint, thyme, and other
herbs and spring flowers. Several years ago, they developed Ewe–Jersey, a mixed-milk cheese made
with equal amounts of sheep’s and cow’s milk. The cheese is complex, sweet, and nutty with notice-
able herbal tones. Serve with: Semi-dry still cider • Medium-bodied California Meritage blend • Amber
or brown ale

82 Vermont • NEW ENGLAND

02 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:13 PM Page 241
SHEPHERD’S WAY FARMS
hepherd’s Way Farms, owned by Jodi
S and Steven Read, is a place of
achievement, triumph, tragedy,
spirit, good stewardship, and great taste. In
1994, they bought forty ewes for their farm,
which is located about 50 miles south of
Minneapolis. Steven developed an interest in
sheep while attending the University of
Minnesota; the couple thought they would milk
the sheep and sell the milk. An abundance of
milk, however, caused them to look for other
options. The university’s Ray Miller had
helped to establish that institution’s sheep
cheese program, and he provided valuable
assistance in creating the recipe for Friesago (a
name that combines Friesian sheep and Asiago
cheese). The success of Friesago led to addi-
tional cheeses and an ever-expanding flock of
sheep, at one point numbering five hundred,
making Shepherd’s Way the second-largest
sheep dairy in the United States.
continued next page
UPPER MIDWEST • Minnesota
Established: 1994
Owners and cheesemakers: Jodi Ohlsen Read
and Steven Read
Address: 8626 160th Street East, Nerstrand,
MN 55053
Telephone: 507-663-9040
Email: farmfriends@earthlink.net
Web site: www.shepherdswayfarms.com
Visitors: Yes; Saturday, 9 am–12 pm or by
appointment
Types: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and
raw East Friesian sheep’s milk
Varieties of cheese:
• Friesago. Aged four to six months; semi-
hard, rich, nutty; waxed 10–12 pound
wheels; ACS
• Friesago Reserve. Aged twelve months;
washed-rind, rubbed with olive oil, firm,
full, piquant flavor; 10–11 pound wheels
• Big Woods Blue. Aged four to six months;
natural rind, creamy, deep veining, complex
flavors; ACS
• Shepherd’s Hope. Fresh; pasteurized milk,
light, plain and herb-garlic; 3–4 pound
wheels; ACS
Awards: Numerous American Cheese Society
prizes
Where to find: Minneapolis–St. Paul metro
region and limited national distribution
241
02 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:13 PM Page 242

SHEPHERD’S WAY FARMS continued

The Reads recognized that outstanding
cheese is a product of well-managed pastures,
careful attention to animals, an understanding
of cheesemaking, and artistry. They succeeded
with all these elements, setting a standard of
excellence while remaining committed to cre-
ating a product that people could easily afford.
Sadly, one cold night in January 2005, a fire
destroyed a nursery building and killed two
hundred lambs and three hundred ewes; the
fire is still under investigation as possible
arson. And although their insurance claim was
not resolved as of fall 2006, an outpouring of
support, money, time, and hard work have
helped bolster them. From local people to the
University of Minnesota’s College of Veterinary
Medicine to the American Cheese Society,
Slow Food USA chapters and cheese lovers,
help has flowed in. In late 2006, Jodi and Steve
were looking for investor support.

Shepherd’s Hope cheese reflects the Reads’

tragedy in 2005. Shepherd’s Way has managed to
keep making cheese, although at lower production
levels. In a triumph of human spirit, determination,
and sheer will, they made cheese throughout 2006
and submitted a few wheels to the annual
American Cheese Society competition. Their Big
Woods Blue, a favorite of blue lovers, received a
First Place award—a tribute to great animals, loving
care and husbandry, and excellent skill in the
cheesemaking. The cheese is pure white with well-
defined blue veins, very creamy, and piquant with a
lingering warm, clean aftertaste. Find a wedge of
Big Woods Blue, the name of a local park beloved
by the Read children, and celebrate this Minnesota
farm family and the strength of Shepherd’s Way
Farm. Serve with: Still semi-sweet cider • Late-har-
vest Gewürztraminer • Double ale or Belgian-style ale

Additional Minnesota Cheesemakers

POPLAR HILL DAIRY GOAT FARM
Vincent Maefsky
12521 Mayberry Trail North
Scandia, MN 55073
651-433-2684
www.poplarhillfarm.com
Goat cheese.
PRAIRIE HOLLOW FARM
Pamela and David Benike
15211 14th Street NE
Dover, MN 55929
507-932-4352
Farmstead cow’s milk cheese.

242 Minnesota • UPPER MIDWEST

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:03 PM Page 94

VERMONT SHEPHERD

indy Major, the daughter of the owner

C of Oakhurst Dairy, grew up learning

about and consuming good dairy prod-
ucts. David was born on this farm and, after
receiving a degree from Harvard, returned to
Putney. Opened in 1990, Vermont Shepherd
began inauspiciously, making cheese the
owners describe as “sawdust.” They journeyed
to the French Pyrenees, where they learned to
make brebis, a typical Basque mountain sheep
cheese, from the families of Luxi and Arno
Oxanbarritz and Ferdinand Pujalet. And they
learned very well. Since 1993, Vermont
Shepherd has produced one of America’s best
cheeses. The Majors were the first in Vermont
to construct a natural cave, which they dug
into a sheltered hillside on the farm, to mature
their cheese.
During the mid- to late 1990s, many
prospective cheesemakers apprenticed with
the Majors as part of their Dairy Sheep
Education Center. For a period of time, these
individuals—Mary Beth and Frankie Whitten,
Willow Smart, Ann and Bob Works, Gari and
Mark Fischer, and Neil Urie—made cheese for
Vermont Shepherd. Over the last few years,
these onetime apprentices have established
new businesses and today make their own
excellent sheep cheese. They are truly a testi-
mony to Cindy and David’s vision, commitment
to quality, and distinctive taste. In 2006, Cindy
left Vermont Shepherd for other pursuits, while
David and new partner Yesenia Ielpi continue
to make this American original.
Established: 1990
Owners: David Major and
Yesenia Ielpi
Cheesemaker: David Major
Address: 875 Patch Road,
Putney, VT 05346
Telephone: 802-387-4473
Email: vtsheprd@sover.net
Web site: www.vermontshepherd.com
Visitors: No; a self-service cheese farmstand is
open daily
Types: Farmstead, seasonal raw Dorset,
Friesian, and Tunis sheep’s milk
Varieties of cheese:
• Vermont Shepherd. Aged three to six
months; natural rind, semi-firm; 8 pound
wheel; ACS & USCCC
Awards: Numerous prizes from U.S.
Championship Cheese Contest and
American Cheese Society including a 2000
American Cheese Society “Best in Show”
award
Where to find: On-premises cheese stand, mail
order, and distributed nationwide, primarily
through specialty cheese stores

94 Vermont • NEW ENGLAND

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:03 PM Page 95

Vermont Shepherd is made only from mid-April to

October, when the sheep graze on fresh grasses and
wild herbs. Every other day, an affineur turns and
brushes each 7–9 pound wheel as it ages for four to
eight months on wooden shelves in a hillside cave
built in 1996. A mature Vermont Shepherd wheel has
a beautiful golden-brown, rustic, natural rind, and the
cheese itself has a smooth, creamy texture. The flavor
is sweet, rich, and earthy with hints of clover, wild
mint, and thyme. A very mature wheel develops a
firm, hard texture, like Parmigiano-Reggiano, with
similar flavor characteristics of caramel and fruit.
Serve with: Semi-dry sparkling hard cider • Grenache
or Riesling • Dobbelbock or Lambic-style fruit beer

NEW ENGLAND • Vermont 95

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 2:04 PM
VALLEY SHEPHERD CREAMERY
lthough New Jersey has only a
A handful of small-scale cheese pro-
ducers, the state can lay claim to
some of America’s most innovative artisans.
Eran and Debra Wajswol certainly fit this
description. Their vacations in Europe became
penetrating introductions to the continent’s
amazing cheese varieties and motivated them to
make sheep cheese. In 1995, they opened
Farmersville Cheeses in Hunterdon County in
the northwest part of the state. Customers soon
discovered their unique, traditionally based
sheep cheeses, and demand soared. In 2005,
they moved 5 miles north to a 120-acre farm in
Long Valley. Here they built a remarkable
underground cave by blasting 150 feet into a
hillside. Located 16–20 feet underground, the
vaulted cave measures 100 feet by 25 feet, and
has separate rooms for aging hard, blue, soft
ripened, and other cheeses! It even has a
viewing room for visitors to help educate them
about traditional practices, stewardship, and
taste.
While the Wajswols make more than a dozen
cheeses, each handmade batch is a “limited
edition.” As a seasonal dairy, they make
cheese from May until late fall and then age
the wheels, with most becoming available the
following year. And when they arrive, they sell
out quickly. Their Oldwick Shepherd, made
with sheep’s milk, is a mold-ripened firm
cheese with a pebbly-textured rind, smooth
paste, and complex aromas and flavors of
milk, caramel, nuts, and mushrooms. They
make only twelve wheels at a time, and each
batch of cheese reflects different seasonal
pasture plants, daily weather changes, and
other factors. These slight variations add to its
distinctive, high-quality presence. Serve with:
Semi-dry still cider • Zinfandel or medium-
bodied Syrah • Brown or red ale
Page 110
Established: 1995
Owners and cheese-
makers: Eran and
Debra Wajswol
Address: 50 Fairmount
Road, Long Valley, NJ 07853
Telephone: 908-876-3200
Email: info@valleyshepherd.com
Web site: www.valleyshepherd.com
Visitors: Yes; Thursday–Saturday, 10 am–5 pm;
Sunday 11 am–5 pm
Types: Farmstead, seasonal, raw East Friesian
sheep’s milk and Jersey cow’s milk cheese
Varieties of cheese (partial list):
Sheep’s milk
• Oldwick Shepherd. Aged three months;
thin, natural rind, smooth, earthy, fruity
flavors; 5 pound wheel
• Shepherd’s Basket. Aged four to five
months; natural rind with basket indenta-
tions; sharp, tangy; 5 pound wheel
• Ancient Shepherd. Aged twelve months;
crusty natural rind, crumbly texture, deep
flavor; 4 pound wheel
• Smokey Shepherd. Aged eight to fourteen
months; brown sticky rind smoked over
apple wood; 4 pound wheel
• Babaloo. Aged three months; sheep’s or
mixed milk, robust blue; 4 pound wheel
• Tartuffo Shepherd. Aged three months with
black Tuscan summer truffles; strong earthy
mushroom aroma and flavor; 5 pound wheel
Mixed sheep’s and cow’s milk
• Califon Tomme. Aged five to eight months;
natural rind, creamy, tangy; 12–30 pound
wheels
• Nettlesome. Aged five to eight months with
nettles; 12 pound wheel
• Carameaway. Aged five to eight months
with caraway; 12 pound wheel
• Fairmount. Aged nine to fifteen months;
natural rind, hard, smooth, dense, complex
flavor; 14–16 pound wheels
• Valley Thunder. Aged five to seven months;
natural rind, hard, sharp; 13 pound wheel
• Scent-sation. Aged four months, washed-
rind, soft body, strong aroma and flavor
• Crème and Quark Series. Handmade, tradi-
tional fresh cream cheeses
• Ricotta Series. Fresh, sheep’s or cow-sheep
mixed whey; 1 pound container
• Jersey Fresh Mixte. Pasteurized semi-hard
cheese made and sold within twelve hours
of milking
Where to find: On-premises retail, New York
City and New Jersey farmers’ markets, and
regional and national distribution