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T H E
Court and Country Cook:||
G I V I N G
New and Plain D i R e c r 1 o N s
How to Order all manner of

ENTERTAINMENTS,
And the bet fort of the
Mot exquifitea-la-mode RAGoo's.
- Together with
| |N E W I NS T R U CT I O N S
F O R

CO N F ECT IO N ERS:
- ~, S H E W I N G -

How to Preferve all forts of F k u 1 r s, as well


dry as liquid: Alfo,
How to make divers S u o AR-w o R ks, and other
fine Pieces of Curiofity; | -

How to fet out a D s n R r, or Banquet of


S w E Er-M E A r s to the betadvantage; And,
How to Prepare feveral forts of L1 ou o R s, that
are proper for every Seafon of the Year.
A W O R K more epecially neceary for Stewards,
Clerks of the Kitchen, Confetioners, Butlers, and -

other Officers, and alo of great ue in private Families. \

Faithfully tranlated out of French into Englih by J. K.


London : Printed by LV onley, for A. and 3. Churchill, at
the Black Swan in Pater-ngster-row, and M. Gillyflower
- in Westminster-hall, 17o2.

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3

PREFACE
To THE

R E A D E R.
Ltho' the Shortnes of Mans Life is imputed
by fome Perons, to his departure from the
imple and frugal Manner of Living of our
- firt Parents, and to the vat Quantities of
exquiite Ragoo's and Sauces, that are continually co--
veted; it is certain, That this Prastice cannot be
jutly cenur'd, at leat, without calling in Quetion
the Condut of Divine Providence, that has ordain'd ,
fo great a Variety of Things for the ue of Man; as ,
long as he keeps within due Bounds, and does notneg-
lest the particular Duties of his Calling: Not but that
there is good reaon to condemn the Luxury of fome .
Princes of Antiquity, who not contenting themelves
to furnih their Tables, at vat Expences, with every
Thing, that was mot rare and cotly, in the other
Parts of the World, but alo extended their Magnifi
cence, to the ordering of Pearls, of an inetimable
Value, to be ferv'd up in Drink; whilt they were
as hard-hearted towards others, as they were indul-
to themelves, and ignorant in Matters of Re- ,
igion. - - , ,

Ia2 a How
- - - - -r

' --

The Preface to FR7 ==

- However, ince it is to be prefum'd, That Men are ::


now far removd from thoe exqrbitant Diorders, as .
having their Undertandings enlightend by Divine :
Revelation, and the Intructions given in this Book 3 :
would it not be deemd, s it were a kind of Homag :
done to that liberal Hand, from which fo many Lar- :
gees have beea receivd, to know-how to make ue f :
them, after the mot perfet, manner ? And admit |
it were fo, that thfe Raoo's (may tend to the cor- .
rupting of the Body ; may it not alo be affirm'd,
with as much Truth, That they ferve to upportit,
and to remedy Naufeoufnes and Satiety, oon octa
fiond by the Weaknes of its-Nature, or the Mufti
plicity of Buines? Nay this Inconveniency often hap
pens even in the ufe of the mot delicious Meats, if
not prevented
pested Novelty by the Seaonings
of the grateful Variety, and unex
and Sauces. f %

* , , ;
Indeed, all Men are not endu'd with this dicerning ,
Faculty; which nevertheles, is a Ray of their Rea
fon and Intellet. If credit may be given to the Rela-
tions of Travellers, there are fome whole Nations,
which are fo far from undertanding, in the leat, how
to raife an Appetite, by a due Preration of Mestes,
proper for their Nourihment, that they are altoge
ther ignorant of the Excellency and Nature of the
mot part of them; ften preferring the mot mean
and ill-dres'd Meats, or eating them, after the most
diftateful manner: So that upon the Whole, Neat
nes may only be faid to Preide in Europe, where the ,
bet Ways of Seafoning and Dreffing all forts of Pro-
viions, which that Continent affords, are well {nown;,
, and where Justice is done, at the fame time, to the
wonderful Produtions, causd by the happy Situation
of other Climates. It mut alo be acknowledg'd,
That the Englih and French are more epecially weli
- - - ver sd
" -- - - - -*- FT Preface to the Reader.
-r- i

versd in the Art of Cookery, asit willmore fully ap


per, upen the perfal of the following Treatife. F .
The Authr of this ingenious Work, aumes the
Titl pf, The Royal, or Court-Cook; and not without
good reaon, in regard that the feveral - Entertain-*
ments particularly decribd by him, for the different
Seaons of the Year, were all lately ferv'd up, at the
Court of Frange, or in the Palaces of Princes, and in
the Houes gf Perons of great Quality. In fhewing"
how to prepare the repetive Mees, of which ali -- -

thofe. Enertainments confifted, he explains the true


Methods oberv'd by the King's Officers, who wer
employd upon thoe Occaions; o that it may bejut
ly affirm'd, That this Book contains all the mot ex
qifite -la-mode Ragoo's that are now in Ufe. -

*
: : :: to teo: , ; :: : : : : : : : :: * -

Therefore the Reader will here meet with many ;


forts of different Mees, not fo much as mention'd in
any other Treaties of ookery formerly printed, and
others of a better Relih, prepard with a great deal
more Art, as well as explain'd after a more clear and
intelligible manner: Upon this account, nothing has
been omitted, that might render the Meats more fuc
culent and rich, and yet it mut be confes'd, That no:
Particular, is fpecified, but what may be eaily put in
Pratice. If any Perons hould happen to be in fuch :
Places, or Circumtances, as will not admit of the like
expenive Entertainments; nevertheles thefe Dire
tions may be often follow'd to very good purpoe, by
endeavouring at leaft, to come as near to them, as is
poible: So that this Book will be alo ferviceable,
even in Country-Houes, where there is only a mall
uantity of Proviions. Beides, that upon fome par-
ticular Occaions, it will be expedient to make Enter
tainments, that furpas the ordinary rate of Expences;
and then, as a Cook may be furnih'd with all forts
- - Il CCC1
-

* A *
The Preface to the Reader. --

neeeary Proviions; fo it is no les requiite, that he


know how to make ufe of them to the bet Advantage.
In this Book is alo containda very great number
of common Mees, as of Chickens, Pigeons, and even
of Butchers-meat, which may give a great deal of fa
tisfa&ion, for indifferent Ordinaries; more epecially,
in the Country: And in hort, it may be averrd,
That nothinghas been omitted, which may contribute
either to the Honourable Entertainment of a Peron
of Quality, or to the Affitance of the Officers em
ployd in preparing it : Since without deviating from
the bet Ways, that are now in Ufe, a particular De
fcription has been always given, of every Thing, that
may ferve for allkinds of Tables, except thoe of the
meaner fort of Country-People, on which it would be
needles to init; becaue the Management of them
may be eaily perform'd, when that of the others R
above-mention'd, is ufficiently undertood.
After having thus given an Account of the Deign
of this Book, and of the Ulefulnes and Certainty of
the Intrutions contain'd in it ; our Court and Coun
//
try Cook does not fear the Cenure of malevolent Car-
pers, unles it were for divulging the Secrets of his
Art, to oblige the Publick; which is a very pardon
able Offence, conidering, That the Advantage of the
Common-wealth ought to be preferrd before that of
private Perons. It may happen, That in managing
the Buines feveral Ways, it may alo be brought to
good Effect, and therefore every Man is left to his li
berty, to follow his own Method, which may tend to
the fame purpoe; provided, that care be taken, to
order the repective Mees, with all poible Neatnes;
to feafon them well, and to dres them according to
Art. - | - * *

*** . , It
- - - j',

-==T

-T Preface to the Reader.


It was deign'd to add here, what relates to thoe
Officers, whoe Bufines it is to look after the Deferts,
that is to fay, the Fruits, Sweet-meats, Comfits, Li
ors, &c. But foramuch as the preent Volume has
eady attain'd to a ufficient Bulk, we have content- .
ed our felves only to touch upon fome Articles, by
the Way; viz. fuch as are proper for Intermees, and
others that ferve for the garnihing of particular
Dihes; referring the ret, to be treated of at large, in
another Volume hereto annexd, which is of no lefs
Importance, and equally deerves a favourable Recep
tion. It is alo to be hopd, That the Court and Coun
try-Cook, will be as acceptable here, in an Englih
Dres, as in that of his native Country; where three
feveral Editions of his Work have been printed and
fold, in a fhort pace of Time : To that purpoe, care
has been takento make a faithful and ignificant Tran
flation of it, and for the greater benefit of the Reader,
to annex a Table, explaining all the difficult Terms of
Art, and French Words us'd throughout the whole
Work. v * -

T
------- ----

*
T
* - -

i is , ** , , , s

A T A B L e of the Entertainments and


Intructions containd in this Book.
(\ N ntertainment for the Month of January; the
A Table being furnih'd for twelve Perfons, according
to the Model of one made by the order of the Duke
of Chartres for Mademoielle his Siffer, Feb. 15.
\
1691. - . ' ' ' Page 1
An Entertainment for the Months of February and March,
conformablyto a Supper prepar'd for the Duke of Orleans,
by Mon. L'anglois, March 28. 16gb. 3
An Entertainment for the fame Month of March; being the
Duke of Orleans's Dinner, on Eater-day, March 26.
I 69o. - ' ' ' ,
His Supper the fame Evening, : # -

A List of what may ferve during the Months of January,


February and March,befdes theafore-mentioned Dihes, 7
The Potages, ibid,
Side-Dihes, ibid.
Roai-Meats, - 8
An Entertainment for the Month of April, given by the Mar
que dArci to the DukeofChartres, Apr. 1 o. 169o. 9
Another Dinner for the fame Time and the fame Perons,
April 18. 169o. Io
Another Dinner for the AMonth of April, prepar'd at the
Marquef dArci's, for the Duke of Chartres and Ma
demoifelle, 1i
A great Entertainment for the Month of May, in the fame
Tear,made at Seaux by the Marque de Seignelay,for the
Dauphin, the Duke and Dutchef of Orleans, the Duke
of Chartres, Mademoielle his Sister and other Princes
! and Ladies of the Court, I2 *

Another Entertainment for the fame Month of May, celebra


ted May 18. 169o. - I 4.
An Entertainment for the Month of June, according to a
- 1 Model
ZTTE of the Entertainments, &c.
Model of the ordinary Coures ferv'd up at the French
Kings Table, I6
Another Entertainment for the fame Month; made at Court
for Monf. de Livri Principal Steward to his Majesty,
the Table being furnih'd for twelve Perfons, 17
Another Entertainment prepard June 2o. 169o, for the
Cardinal d' Etres and the Ambaffidours, at the Table
of the Grand Chamberlain and Surveyor to the French
King, - 18
A Lif of what may be ferv'd up, befides the before-men
mentiond Dihes, during the AMonths of April, May,
and June, I9
Potages, ibid.
Side-Dihes, 2O

Roast-AMeats, ibid.
A great Entertainment for the Months of July and Au
gut, according to the Model of that, which the Mar
que de Louvois cau'd to be provided in the Castle at
Meudon, for the Dauphin, the Duke and Dutchef of
Orleans, the Duke of Chartres, and the whole Reti
nue of the French Court, on the Festival of St. Lewes,
Aug. 25. I 69o. 2. I

Several other Entertainments made during the fame Seafon


for diffrent Tables, - 23 & equ.
A Lit of what may be ferv'd up, befides the above-men
tiond Meffes during the Months of July, Augut, and
September, 2

Potages, jbid.
Side-Dihes, - ibid.
Roa-Meats, 27
An Entertainment that may be made in the Months ofOto
ber, November, and December, according to the A40
del of a Supper provided in the Duke of Chartress Pa
lace, Decemb. i. 169o, '. , 27
Another Entertainment, or Fea prepar'd at the Duke of
Aumonts Palace, the Table being furnih'd for forty tiro
Perfens, Decemb, 27, 169. 28
. [ b ] A
A Table of the Entertainments, &c.
A Li# of what may be ferv'd up, befides the above-men
tion'd Dihes, during the Months of Otober, Novem
ber and December, 3L
Potages, - - ibid.
Side-Dihes, ibid.
Roast-Meats, 32
A General Table of the Intermeffes, ibid.
Entertainments on Fih-days, throughout the whole rear, 34
Potages on Fih-days, for the Months of January, Februa
ry and March, 35
Potages on Fih-days, for the Months of April, May and
June, 36
Potages on Fih-days, for the Months of Otober, Novem
ber and December, 37
Side-Dihes of Fih, for the whole Tear, ibid.
for the Jecond Coure, 4O
A LiH of the Fih-Sallets, | 4I
Divers Entertainments for Fih-days, according to the Mo
del of the Ordinary Coures ferv'd up at the Duke of Char
tress Table, 41 & iequ. .
Entertainments with Roots, conformably to the Duke of Orfe
anss Dinner on Good-Friday, A. D. I 69o. 47 & fequ.
A List of the Sallets, for the Collation on the fame Day, so
Instrutions in form of a Diiionary, heming how to dref
every particular Me, and how to ferve them up to Table,
for the Side-Dihes, Intermeffes and Roast-Meats, or
otherwife, after the bei manner, 5 I & equ.
See the General Table of the AMeffes.
|
A T A B L e explaining all the Terms of Art and
French Words us'd in thu Treatife of Cookery.
A. made of Quails, Capons, fat Pul
Ndouille, a fort of Chitterling lets, and more epecially of Pi
made eieher of Hoggs or geons roafted.
- Calves-guts; the formerbe Bifet, a fort of Stock-dove, or
ing stuff'd with Pork, and the o Wood-pigeon. *

ther with Caives-chaldrons, Ud Blanc-manger, a kind of Jelly


der, &c. made of Calves feet and other In
Andouillet, minc'd Veal, with gredients,with pounded Alinonds.
Bacon and other Ingredients rol Bouconf, Veal ftakes roll'd up
led int9 a Pelt, Andouillets for Fih with thin Slices of fat Bacon and
days , are alo made of Eels and Gammon,
Carps-fleth chope imall or pound- Bouillans, little Pies made of
ed in a Mortar, the Breafts of roated Capons or
, B. Pullets, minc'd mall with Calves
Arbe-Robert,a particular Way udder, Bacon, Herbs, &c.
#f dresting Hoggs-ears. , Bourgeoie, as Veal dres'd la
Bards, thn broad Slies of Ba Burgeoie, i.e., after the Country
con, with which Capons, Pullets, fahin : See the fecond Article of
Pigeons and other forts of Fowl Vcal in the Body of the Book, un
are fometimes cover'd , before der the Letter V.
they are rafied, bakd, or other Bouton, a Tih of large Bards,
wife drefs'd. or thin Slice of Bacon cover'd
Beatilles, certain Tid-bits; uch with a Farce and Ragoo, and
as Cocks - combs, Livers, Ghiz bakd between two Fires. -

zards and other Appurtenances of Braies, or Meat dres'd l'z


Fowis, of the fame nature as Bra fe, that is to ay, either broil'd
Gooie-gibblets; which are ufual upon the live Coals, or bak'd in
ly put into Pies, Potages, rc. a Por, Pan, or Campain-oven,
There are alfo Beatilles of Fih, between two Fires, viz. one un
as Roes, Livers, rc. dernezth, and the orher, on the
Beccafigo, or Fig eater, a little top of the Lid. This lat Way of
Bird like a Wheat-car, being a dreing Meat is mach in vogue,
kind of 0, tolan. and extremely heightens its re
Beef a la mde,ee the last Article lih. -

of Beef in the body of the Book. - Brochette, as Chickens fried and


Biberot, minc'd Meats made of ftewd la Brachette; for which
the Breafts of Partridges and fat particular Way, ee the fifth Ar
Pull :ts. ticle of Chickens.
Bi: k., a rich k ud of Potage, Bruff l.s, Cr Buffoler, Stakes of
* [ b 2] Veal ,
A Table explaining the Terms of Art, &c. -
Veal or other Meat, laid in a Stew Compote, Fruit, or Meat tew
pan between thin Slices of Bacon, ed : For a Compote of Pigeons, ee
with thc uual eaoning Ingre the fourth Articles of Pigeons.
dients, and bak'd between two Court-bouillon, a particular way
Fire; pouring a Ragoo or Cullis of boiling Fih, in Wine, Verjuice
upon them before they are erv'd and Vinegar,with allforts of Spice.
up to Table. For Carp dres'd in a Demi-court
Butter mav be us'd in Sauces, bouillon. See the fixth Article of
after three feveral manners; that Carp.
is to ay, 1. Natural, or only Crepines, a fort of Farce wrapt
melted without any alteration ; up in a Veal-caul, call'd Crepine
2. Burnt, or fried brown till it in French. For Capons - livers
turns as it were to an Oil; 3. Re dres'd la Crepine, or in a Veal
fined, or clarified, by boiling, and caul, fee the firt Article of Li
taking cff the Scum. vers.
C. -

Croquets, a certain Compound


T.Apitolade, a particular way made of a delicious Farce, ome
of drefing Capons, Par of the bignefs of an Egg, and
tridges and other forts of Fowl. others of a Walnut; the former
Caffrole , a Stew-pan; alo a may ferve for a Side-dih,and the
Loaf tuff'd with a Hah of roaft others only for Garnihing.
sed Pullets, Chickens, or other Croutade, a peculiar manner of
Roat-meat, and dres'd in a Stew dreifing a Loin of Mutton.
pan of the fame bignes as the Cullis, aftrained Liquor, made
Loaf: Alo a kind of Soop or Po ofany fort of Meat or other things
tage of Rice, grc. with a Ragoo. pounded in a Mortar and past'd
Cervelat, or Cervelas, a large thro the Hair-fieve. Thee Cul
kind of Sauage, well eaon'd and lifes are uually pour'd upon Mef
caten cold in flices. fes, either of Fleh or Eih, and
Ciboulet, a young Chibbol, a fort into Pies, a little before they are
of little Onion. | brought to Table.
Eitrull, a kind of Cucumber of Cutlets, are made of the hort
a Citron colour. Ribs of a Neck of Mutton or Veal, ,
Civet, a particular Way ofdref. and take their Name from the
fing Chickens, Hares, and other French Word Cotelette, fignifying
forts of Venion ; firt frying them a mall Rib.
brown in Lard, and afterwards Cuvet, a kind of oval Dih,
ftewing them in Broth. See the D.
feveral Articles of Civet in the Ame Simonne, a particular
Body of the Book, under the Let Way of farcing Cabbage
per C- . -
let ise la Dame Simonne ; for .
civette, or la Civette, another which fee the Article of Lettice.
magner of dresting Chickens; for Dibe, a certain peculiar man
which ee the feventh Article of ner of dreing a Leg of Veal, as
ghi : " " *
aiio of everal forts of Fih and s
Fowi; *
A Table explaining the Terms of Art, &c.
Fowl; to find out which,recoure Filets, any fort of Butchers
may be had to the General Table meat, Fowl, or Fih cut into lices :
of the Meffes.
and dres'd in a Ragoo.
Dauphine, as Veal-weet:breads Filets mignons, large lices of
farced la Dauphine, as it were Beef, Veal, or Mutton, pread over
for the Dauphin s Table. This with a rich Farce, well roll'd up,
Dih is explaindin the first Article and cover'd both underneath and
of Veal fweet-breads. on the top, with Bards or thin
Demi-court-bouillon, fee Court flices of Bacon ; in order to be
bouillon. -

bak'd in a Stew-pan, between two


Douillet, as a Pig dres'd after a Fires 3 and erv'd up with a good
particular Way,call'd au Pere Dou Cullis or Ragoo.
illet: See the fourth Article of Fricandoes, a fort of Scotch Col
Piggs. For Pigeons fo order'd, fee lops, made of thin flices of Veal
the lat Article of Pigeons under well larded and farced, whieh are
the Letter P. - -

afterwards to be dres'd in a Stew


E.
pan, cloe coverd, over a gentle
Pigramme, as a Knuckle of Fire.
Veal l' Epigramme, a par G.
ticular manner of dreffing it.
Effence de fambon, ee Gammon G as a fucking Pig
ferv'd - up in Galantine; /*

effence. -
which remarkable manner of dref
-

Estoufade, a particular Way of fing is explain'd at large in the


ftewing Meat or other Things in third Article of Piggs. .
an earthen Pan: Eor a Legof Veal Gallimawffy,a kind of Hah; fee
fo drefs'd, fee the lat Article of a Shoulder of Mutton fo drefs'd in
Leggs, in the Body of this Work, the Article of Gallimanffy, under
under the te"; L. -
the Letter G. -

Gammon-effence, is made of thin


Arces, are uually made of fe flices of Gammon dres'd in a
veral forts of Mearand Herbs
Stew-pan with a Ragoo and after
chopt mall and well eaon'd with wardsstrain'd thro'the Hair-fieve;
Spice; in order to tuff any Joint to be put into all forts of Mees,
of Meat, Fowl, or Fih: Of thee in which Gammon isus'd: See the
Farces there is very great variety, firt Article of Gammon. *- .

and fome are diftinguihd by par Gate a particular way


ticular Names, as Godivoes, Miro of drefinofg Soles,
them. V
tons, Poupetons, Salpicons, &c. - Gibelote, as Chickens dres'd
Feuillantins and Fleurons, cer la Gibelote; for which tee the tenth
tain finall Tarts or Puffs of fine Pa Article of Chickens.
ftry work, proper for Garnihing, Godard, or la Gdard, a par
fill'd with Sweet-meats; they ferve ticular Way of dreffing a hort Rib
for the garnihing of other Pies of of Beef, decribed in the firt Ar
a larger fize, and are uually fet ticle of Beef.
among the Intermeies, Godivoe, a kind of delicious
Farce
A Table explaining the Terms of Art, &c.
Farce made of Veal and feveral tage made of a Leg of Mutton
other forts of Meats; or elfe of roafted and put into a great Pot
Carps, Pikes and other Fih, for or Kettle with a good piece of
Days of Abtinence Beef, a Fillet of Veal, a fat Ca
Grenade, a Dih of larded Veal pon, all forts of Roots and fome
collops bak'd in a round Stew-pan Herbs. Another fort of Julian is
between two Fires, with fik Pi alo prepar'd for Fih-days.
geons and a Ragoo in the middle, V 1" li, thick Gravy of Beef or
and cover'd on the top and un Cale
derneath with thin lices of Ba L,
COfl Ardson, a finall flip of Bacon
Grenadin is made of a good Go proper for Larding,
divne, or Farce laid upon thin fli M.
ces of Bacon in a Baking-pan,with A M Arinde, icked Meat, ei
a hollow Place, to receive a Fowl ther of Fleh or Fih.
cut into halves and drefi'd in a Matelotte, as Cucumbers drefs'd
Ragoo. Grenadins may be made la Matelotte, or after the Sea
of fat Pullets, Chickens, Pigeons, man's Way; for which fee the
Partridges and all other forts of fecond Article of Cucumbers,
Fowl. Mauviette, a kind of Mavis or
Grillade, Meatbroiled upon the Thruh. \

Grid-iron. Mazarine, or la Mazarine, a


. H. particular Way of dreing feveral
H a particular Way of forts of Fowl; more epecially
drefing Mutton-curlets and Pigeons and Chickens ; for the
feveral forts of Fowl and Fih in a larter, ee the third Article of
Ragoo,with Turneps; pecified in Chickens.
the General Table of the Mees. Menehout, or la Sainte Mene
Alo a kind of French Beans. hout, a peculiar Manner of ba
Hatlets, a Dih of Veal-weet king Meat cover'd with Bards or
breads, Capons-livers and young thin flices of Bacon; either in an
Bacon, cut into finall pieces and Oven, or between two Fires : For
fried, with a little Flower, in or a Loin of Murton fo dresd, fee
der to be pitted on mall Skewers, the fifth Article of Mutton ; for
breaded,and broil'd or fried. Piggs pertitoes, the lat Article of
Huguenote, or la Huguenote, a Piggs; for fat Pullets, the third
particular Way of dresting. Eggs Article of Pullets ; and for Pige
with Gravy : See the tenth Ar ons, the feventh Article of Pi
ticle of Eggs. geons.
AMenus-droits, or Mine-droit, a
Acobine, a kind of Potage, with certain Dih proper for Interme
Chece. fes, made f different Things; a
* Interineffer, Coures fet on the mong others of an Ox palare, or
Table between other Dihes. of Staggs fleh, cut into thin lices,
falian, a very coniderable Po. and fried. See the Article of ll
Me-

.
A Table explaining the Terms of Art, &c.
mug-droits, under the Letter M. exquifite taste, about the bignes
Meringues, a fort of Confetion of a Lark.
made of the Whites of Eggs Out-works, Coures of Dihes
Whipt, fine Sugar and grated fet on the out fide of the Table.
Lemmon-peel, of the bignes ofa P.
Walnut. They are proper for the Ains, i. e. Loaves, divers Mef.
garnihing of feveral Dihes. - fes proper for Side-dihes o
Miroton, a kind of Farce made call'd as being made of Bread
of Veal, Bacon, &c. orele of Fih, stuff'd with feveral forts of Farces
ard dres'd feveral Ways ; for and Ragoo's: See the repestive
which ee the repetive Articles Articles in the Body of the Book.
in the Body of the Book under the A la Parifienne, a particular
Letter M. Way of making Pies, after the
Miroir, as Eggs dres'd au Mi Mode of the City of Paris.
roir, that is to ay, broken into Parmefan, Cheeebrought from
a Plate full of Gravy, over a Cha the City of Parma in Italy.
fing-dih,and afterwards ic'd with Petits-choux, i. e. mall Cole
the red-hot Fire-hovel. worts ; a fort of Paste for garnih
Mode, as Beef la Mode, a par ing, made of fat Cheee, Flower,
ticular Way of dreffing it. See Eggs, Salt, rc. bak'd in a Pie-pan
the lat Article of Beef: and iced over with fine Sugar:
Morille, the fmallet and mot See the Article of Cabbage and
delicious kind of red Muhrooms. Coleworts.
Moufferon, a fort of white Muh Petits-patez, little Pies.
TOOms Poleacre, or la Poleacre, apar
AV. ticular Way of drefing Chickens
Antilles, Lentils a fort of and other forts of Fowl.
Pule. * Poor-man's Sauce, or Carriers
O Sauce, a Sauce made of Shalot cut
Il, a very rich Potage after very mall, with Salt, white Pep
the Spanih Way, made of per, Vinegar and Oil of Olives.
Buttock-beef, part of a Fillet of Potage de Sant, i. e. Health-po
Veal, a piece of a Leg of Mutton, tage, a rich Potage made of the
and another of raw Gammon; as Broth of Buttock - beef, with a
alfo Ducks, Partridges, Pigeons, Knuckle of Veal and Mutton,boil'd
Chickens, Quails, Sauages and a again in a Pot with Capons, fat
Cervelas; al tried brown and af Pullets or otherforts of Fowl,pro
terwards boil'd with all forts of per for that purpoe. Potage de
Roots and Herbs. Other kinds of Sant for Ffh day is likewie pre
Oils are alo prepar'd for Fih-days, pard, with chopt Lettice, Pur
with Peas oop', feveral forts of flain, Sorrel, Bects, and other fa
Fih, Roots and Pule. vcui y Herbs first ftew'd in an ear
Omelet, a kind of Pancakemade then ; or with Butter, and after
of Eggs. - wards oi, d in Water.
Ortolan, a delicate Fowl of an Pot paurri, a Hotch-potch, or
- Dih
*
/

A Table explaining the Terms of Art, &c.


Dih of feveral forts of Meat, as ther Ingredients, and bak'd in a
Ducks, young Turkeys, Leverets, Pie-pan. They maybe made of a
Crc. firt larded and fried inLard to round or quare Figure, and ferve
give them a colour, and after either for Out-works, or to gar
wards tew'd in Broth with whire nih other Dihes.
Wine, Pepper, Salt, a Bunch of Ramolade, a particular Sauce,
Herbs, rc. , , " made of Parley, Chibbol, Ancho
Poupeton, a particular Mesmade vies and Capers, all chopt mall
in a Stew-pan, as it were a Pie, and well temper'din a Dih, with
with thin lices of Bacon laid un a little Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Oil,
derneath ; Pigeons, Quails, or o and Vinegar.
ther forts of Fowl dres'd in a A la Reyne (r la Royale, cer
Ragoo in the middle, and a pe tain peculiar Ways of drefing
culiar Farce call'd Godivoe on the Mear, more epecially Beef, as it
top; in order to be bak'd be were for the King and Queen's
tween two gentle Fires. For Days Table. There are alo feveral Po
of Abtinence, the Poupeton mut tages fo call'd; for which fee the
be prepar'd with a good Fih repective Articlcs.
Godivoe and Sole-Filets, or others Riffles, a fort of minced Pie
in a Ragoo, as alo a fine Arti made of Capons-breafts, Calves
choke-bottom in the middle. See udder, Marrow, Bacon, fine Herbs,
the Articles of Godivoe and Pou rc. and fried in Lard to give it a
peton. fine colour. Riffles may be alo
Poulets Mignons, a Dih of roaft prepard, for Days of Abtinence,
ed Chickens larded and barded. with a delicious Fih-farce, or e
See the eighteeuth Article of ven with white Muhrooms and
Chickens. Spinage. *

Poupiets, are made of omewhat Robert fauce, a Sauce made of


long and thin lices of Bacou, co Onions, Muftard, Butter, Pepper,
ver'd with Veal ftakes of the fame Salt and Vinegar.
bignes, as alo with a good Farce ; Rocambole, a kind of mall Gar
in order to be roll'd up, and roat lick of the bignes of a Shalot.
ed on a little Iron-Spit, wrapt up Roulades, Veal-ftakes, thin lices
in Paper. -
of Bacon and other lices of a
Profitrolles, certain finall round Calves or a Sheeps Tongue, all
Loaves farced and fet in the mid cover'd with a particular Farce,
dle offeveral forts of Potages: See roll'd up together, and boil'd in
the Article of Potages. a Pot. * \

Prunes de Brignoles, Prunelloes. S. -

R Aingaraz, as Rabbets drefs'd


Agoo, a high eaon'd Dih, la Saingaraz, that is to ay,
after the French Way. larded, roated and put into a Ra-
Ramequins, mall flices ot Bread goo of Gammon. Fat Pullets, Pi
trum cover'd with a Farce made geons and Chickens may affo be
ef pounded Cheefe, Eggs and o dres'd in the fame manner. See
", the Article of Rabbets. $4- .
A Table explaining the Terms of Art, &c.
Salmigund, a kind of Hotch Chickens, after they have been
potch ; or Ragoo of feveral forts breaded and boii dupon the Grid
of cold Meats cut into pieces and iron.
ftewed on a Chafing - dih, with Terrine, a very confiderable
Wine, Verjuice, Vinegar, &c. Mes made of a Breaft ot Mutton
Salpicon, a kind of Ragoo or cut into pieces, with Quails, Pi-
Farce made of Gammon, Capons geons and Chickens, all ftew'd in
livers, fat Pullets, Muhrooms, an earthen Pan calld Terrine in
Truffles, &c. proper for large French, cover d with flices of Ba
roated Joints of Beef, Veal, or con on the bottom, and fet be
Mutton, more epecially Leggs ; tween two gentle Fires.
making a Hole in them, taking Tourte, a Pie bak'd in a Pan, of
away the Meat, and ubtituting which there are feveral forts: See
this Ragoo in its room. See the the Article of Tourte, under the
Article of Salpicon, in the Body of Letter T, in the Body of the
the Book, under the Letter S. Book. -

Sauce, ee White Sauce. Truffles, a kind of Muhroom,


Soufce, a certain compound or Puff, cover d with a blackfh,
Soue or Jelly made of Hoggs Skin, without either Stalk or Root,
Ears and Feet, boil'd ln Water, which grows within the Ground,
and afterwards being cut into epecially after great Rains.
fmall pieces, flew'd in Vinegar
V. \
and Sugar. 1 !

Spatula, a Spattle or Slice to stir Ermicelli, i. e. little Worms ;


Liquors or any fort of Butter. a fort of Italian Dih, made
Sur-tout, as Pigeons drefd in of very finall thin flips of Paste,
Sur tout ; that is to ay, farced, feaon'd with white Pepper, Salt
tiedup, and every one cover'd on and Milan Chcee,well grated and
the Breaft with a larded Veal-col put into Potage or Soop, with .
lop, in order to be roafted, wrapt fome other Ingredients.
up in Paper, and ferv'd up in a
- W.
Ragoo or Cullis. Partridges,Wood
cocks and other forts of Fowl may
alo be dres'd in this manner. See
VV Hite Sauce, a Sauce made
's of blanched Almonds and
the eighth Article of Pigeons. the Breat of a Capon, pound
T. ed together; adding Cinnamon,
Artre, or la Tartre, a par Cloves, Ginger, Roe-water and
ticular Wav of dreding N: zr:- *
/

A General T A B L E of the Meffes, the particular


manner of preparing which, is decribed at large
in this Work.
A. B.

|
A L M o N D s, Pates made
of them after feveral man
ners, pag. 5 1 & 52. Al
A S E 5, ftew'd, 75.
BASIL, Pigeons with weet
Bafil, H 86. ;
mond-milk, 52. Potage of Al BEANS, green Beans in Cream,
mond-milk, 52, 53. Almond 169. in an Omelet, ibid. French
Tourtes, or Pan-pies, 53. Almond Beans, how to preerve and drefs
cream, 93, 94. Green Almonds, them, 6o.
how boil'd and preferv'd , 54. Beccafigo's roafted, 237.
A Crip Almonds, 53. BEEF, a fhort Ribb of Beef,
ANCHOVIES, 54, 55. Sauce 61, 62. A great Side-dih of a
made of them, 195, 244. Buttock of Beef, 62. Beef a la
Andouilles, or Hoggs - chitter Royale, 63. Other Side-dihes of
lings , 55. Veal-Andouilles , 56. Joints of Beef, 62, 63. , Beef
Peas-potage made with them, 55, ftakes rolled, 63. Beef-ftake Pie,
56, 198. 65. Beef Filets, with Cucumbers
- *
Andouillets of Veal, 56. Of Fih, and otherwie, 64. Beef with
57. -
Gravy, 65. Beef a la mode, ibid.
APRIcocks, how to preerve with Pepper and Vinegar, ibid.
them green, 54. Briket-beef, ibid. -

ARTIcHoKES , with white Biberot, of Partridges, 29, 173-,


Sauce, 57. with natural Butter, Bifets roated, 236.
ibid. fried, ibid. fried in Pafte,Bisk of Pigeons, 67. of Quails,
68.Fih,
58. with Cream, ibid. 59, 169. of of Capon
ibid. and others, ibid.
r

dres'd a la Saingaraz, 17,58.234.


with Gammon-fauce, ib. a l'Etou BISKETs, of Savoy, 66. other
fide,or flew'd, 15, 58. iced,ib.53. forts of Bikets, ibid. 67.
in an Omelet with Cream, 169. in Blanc-manger, for Intermestes,
Potage, 218. in Pies, 25 I. how 68. of Harts-horn, 69. of divers
to preferve them, 58. Colours, ibid. Potage with Blanc
As PARAGUS , with natural manger, 2 Io. -

Butter, o. in Cream, 13, 59, HOAR, a wild Boar's Head for


I 69. in Gravy, 59. in a Saller, an Internes, 136. A wild Boar
go, 59. with green Peas, ibid. roated, 238. A young wild Boar
in an Omelet, 169. in Potage, 21 5. roafted, ibid.
in a Pan-pie, 261. The Way of Bacons, 69. -

preferying hem, 63 Bouillans of Capons-breafts, 7o.


Bouton, 7o.
~
Braifes,
A

A General Table of phe Meffes, &c.


Braies, 71. Veal or Beef-takes made of them, 228. Tofts with
dres'd a la Braife, 64. Neats Capons-livers, 255. A Pan-pie
tongues, 164. Boucons, 7o. Bru made of them, 257.
hlet, 74. Quails, 23 1. Galantine, CARBONNADo D Mutton, 163.
191. Leggs of Mutton, 145. Fi Cardoons, for Intermeffes, 77.
lett Mignons, 123. Capons-livers, With Parmefan,28. Potages made
150. Poupetons, 225, 226. Miro with them, 2o 5, 214, 217.
tunt, I 55, 156. Partridges, 174. CARPs, dres'd with Mouff
Pigeons, 187. Chickens, 86. rons,78. In a Daube, ibid. Farced,
BREAST of Mutton dres'd e 79. Larded with Eels fleh, ibid.
vetal Ways, 155, 162, 163. Par In Filets with Cucumbers, ibid.
boild and afterwards friad, 26. In a Court-bouillon, 8o. In a De
BREAST of Veal, 72, 211, 273. mi-court-bouillon, 79. Boild upon
In a Ragoo, 27. the Grid-iron, 8o. Potages made
BRTH, far, 71. Broth for of them, ibid. Pies, 182. Hahes,
white Potages, ibid. For brown 135. Carp-fauce and Cullis, 176.
Potages and Side-dihes, 72. For CASSEROLES, for a Side-dih,
Break-fast, ibid. Jelly-broth, ibid. 8o. With Parmefan, 81. With
Fih broth, 73, 74. Broth with Rice, ibid. Fih in a Cafferole, 9o,
Herbs and Roots, 74. I I 45 I 95, 244
Brufoles, 74. \ Cervelas, 57, 2o1.
BURTs, or BRET-FISH, 75. CHEESE-CAKES, 82.
. Burrock of Beef for a great CHIBBoLs , or young Chib
Side dih, 62. bols in a Pie, 181. In Potage,
C. - 218. With Eggs, 12o. Chickens
A B B A G E s, or Coleworts, and other Fowls dres'd with
Potages made with them, Chibbols, 85.
76, 196, 199, 2 16, 218. - A far CHICKENS, with Gammon,
ced Cabbage,76. Farced Cabbage 82. Farced with Oifters, 83.
for Fih-days, ibid. 122. How to Dres'd a la Mazarine, ibid, A la
make Petits-choux, i. e. Small Cole Sainte Menehout , ibid. With a
worts, 76. Cray-fih-cullis, ibid. A la Bro
CALVES-EARs farced, 1 i 1. chette, 84. Farced, with a Muh
Calves-chaldron fried, 2o. room-cullis, ibid. A la Civette,
CAPONs, a Bik of them, 68. 85. With Garlick, ibid. In a Fri
Capon in a Daube, Io7. In a Pie, cafly, ibid. A la Gibelote, 86.
179. Roasted, 5, 237. A Capon After other manners, ibid. 87.
cullis, Io I. -
Bakd between two Fires, 86.
CAPONs-BREASTS, fee Tour Boned, ibid. In Filers, 87. With
ter, Riffoles and Bouillans. Wood-cock Sauce, ib. With Gra
CAPoNs-LIVERs, dres'd in vy,ib.With Pike-fauce,ib.Chickens
a Veal-caul, 4, 149. With Muh calld Poulets Migaons,ib. A la Sain
rooms, ibid. With Gravy, I 5o. garaz,234 Dres'd with Truffles.87.
With Gammon, ibid. Bak'd be Their Skins stuff 'd with a Fih
tween two Fires, ibid. Puddings farce, i 3 1. A la Polucre, 18.
[c 2] CHIT:
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
CHITTER LINGs, fee Andou Fricaies with Cream, 83. The
iller. Filets of a fat Pullet with Cream,
CHocoLATE, with Cream,97. 124.
n a Ragoo, Io. 1 Crepiner, 98. A Farce a la
- CITRuLLs, Potage made with Crepine, or in a Veal-caul , ibid.
them, 217. 242. Capons-livers dres'd in the
Civet, of Chickens, 88. Of a fame manner, 4, 149.
Hure and other Venifon. 30. Croquets, two forts of them, 4,
Civette, Clickens dres'd a la 98. Croquets for Fih-days, 122.
Civette. 85. CRUPPER, of Veal, 273. of
Cocksco MB 5, farced in a Ra Murton, 1 62.
goo, 89. How to preerve them, CRusTs farced, 2o 5, 2c6,
9^ 222.
CoD FISH, o, CUCUMBERS, Beef. Filets,with
CoLEwoRTs , ee CABBA Cucumbers, 64. Salt-fih Filets,
, GE's. 24 5. I eg of Mutton and Cucum
CAT. Lops fee Fricandoes. bers, 145. Farced Cucumbers,
Co LL Y FLow FRs, 91 99 , 1oo. A la Matelotte, Ioo.
Compte of Pigeons, 6, 187. In Porages, 2o 5, 2 15. In a Saller,
Congers, in a Marinade, 37, 5o, Ioo. How to preferve Cucum
* 53: , , , . Shads drefi'd in a bers, 1eo.
ourt-bullon -

C u L L I s, white, 72. 137,


Court bouillon, 243. Pikes, 195. I 39, 182, 202, 212, 2 14. Green,
Carps,8o. Smelt 244. Sea ducks, 137, 21 5. Of Lambs-livers, 137.
IC 9. Turbor, 269. Of Partridges, 1o2, 173. Of
C RAY F 15 H, in a Ranoo, o r. Lentils, 1o3, 2oo. A la Revne,
Vith white Sauce, 92. In a Hah, 2 I. Of Beef, 1o1, 2o6, 2o.
ibid. In a Pan-pie, 262. In a Sal Of Gammon, 1o1. Capon, ibia".
ler, 41, 92. Chickens or other Partridges , 1o2. Duck , ibid.
forts of Fowl dr fd with Cray Large Pigeons, ibid. Of Pullets
fih Cu lis, 83. Porage made of breasts, ibid. A white Cullis for
them, 92. And a Cullis, 83 92. Fih-days, 1o3. Another fort for
CR E A M, us'd in Sauces and Fih-porages, ibid. A Cullis made
Ragoo's, 4, 5e, 24. Pistachoe of Roots, ibid. Muhrooms, 84,
cream for Intermeis, 93. Cream 1 o 4, 16 1. Carp, 14, 176. Cray
after the Italian Way, 94. Al fih, 92. A brown Cullis, 16 1.
mond cream, 93. Pastry-cream, A Cullis of Peae, 1.c4, 193. Of
94, Burnt Cream, 95, Burnt the Yolks of Eggs, Io4, 2o3. Of
Cream, with Orange, ibid. Crack Veal, 237. Truffles, I oA.
ling Cream, ibid. Virgin-cream, C U T L E T s , farced with
5. Fried Cream, ib d Choco Cream, io4 Larded, 1o 5. In
late-cream, 97. Sweet Cream, Haricot, ibid. Breaded and broil
ibid. Winte and light Cream, ed upon the Grid iron, ibid. Ma
id. ' Cinnanaon cream, ibid. A rinated, isid,
Farce with Cream, 104, 143, 229.
D,
r
-----

A General Table of the Meffes, &c.

1D. EGGS; with Orange-juice,115.


D A B or S A N D L I N G
Farced, ibid. I 16. with Trip,
I 16. After the German way, ibid.
marinated, 1o5. In a Court After the Burgundian Mod, 1 17.
bouillon, 106. In a Sallet, 4 I, 106. Fried in Hoggs-ears, ibid. With
With white Sauce, Io6. In Fi Erced, ibid. After the Swi Fa
lets, with Anchovie fauce, ibid. fhion, ibid. A la Huguente, 6,
In a Pie, ibid. 182. I 17. After the Portuguee Man2
Daubes, of Eel, 1 12. Carp, 78. ner, 1 18. Pistachoes, ibid. with
Legg of Veal, 16. Green Geefe Orange-flower-water, ibid. In
and other forts of Fowl, 17. Fileff, ibid. After the Italian
Oifters, 167. Sea-ducks, 1o9. Way, I 19; With Roe-water,
DEER, feveral Ways of dref ibid. With Sorrel - juice , ibid.
fing ir, 1o7. Roasted, 238. With Verjuice,ibid. With Cream,
DUCKS, with Oifters, 18. In I 16, I 19. In a Saller, 12o. with
a Ragoo, ibid. In Filett, ibid. young Chibbols, ibid. Drestd af
With Turneps, ibid. A Duck ter feveral other Manners, ibid.
cullis, 1o2. Ducks in Potages, fee 262. Counterfeit, or Artificial
Potage. In Pies, 179, 186. Roaft Eggs, I 20, 12 I.
ed, 236. ESSENCE, of Garlick, 1 1. Of
SEA-Ducks, in a Daube, 1o9. Gammon, 129, 267. Of Onions,
With Cucumbers, ibid. In a Court 269, 27o.
bouillon, ibid. In a Ragoo, with Estolfade, or flewd Meat, 58,
Chocolate, ibid. In Haricot, I Io. I46. -

In a Pot-pourri, or Hotch-potch,
ibid. Roafted, ibid. In a Pie, ibid. N F
Sea-duck - potage, 1 1 1. Young Arces, 122. A Farce for Fri
wild Ducks in Potage, 16. candoes, Croquets, Filets mig
E. no s, &c. 4, 63 With fine Herbs,
269. With Oifters, 83. With
A R s, Hoggs-ears with Ro: Cream, Io 4, 144, 229. Wratit
bert-Sauce, 1 I 1. In Soufce, up in a Veal-caul, 242. A Fih
246, 247. Calves ears, farced, farce, 122.
I I I.
Fawn, how to dres it, 17.
EE Ls,farced, I 12. Dres'd with Roated, 238. Leg of a Fawn
white Sauce, ibid. With brown larded and breaded, 16.
Sauce, ibid. Fried, ibid. I 13. Fennel, Pigeons drefi'd with
Broil'd on the Grid-iron, 1 13. In Fernel, 187.
a Daube, ibid. In Potage, ibid. In Filets-Mignons, 12;. Beef-Fi
a standing pie, ibid. I 14. In a lets and others, with Cucumbers,
Tourte, or Pan pie, I 14. 64. Fih Filets, 245. Filets of
EEL. PowTs, in a Ragoo, I 14. Beef and Mutton, with Trufflss,
In a cafferole-potage, ibid. In a 64, 65, 124. Filets of Pike, 193,
I 15. In other fort of Potage, 194. Carp, 79. Smelts, 41. Whi
ibid. -

tings, ibid. In Sallet, ibid. Fih


Filets
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
Filets in a Standing-pie, 182. In 63, 169. In Omelets, 169. Gam
Pan-pies,264. Perch-Filets dres'd mon in a Tourte or Pan-pie, 258.
feveral ways, 176. Soles in Filett, Gammon in flices, 3, 13o. A
2 19, 24e, 246. Chickens, 87. Fi Gammon-cullis, 1o1, 13o. Fih
Rets of a fat Pullet with Cream, gammon, 13o. Gammon-fauce,
i 24. Of a fat Pullet marinated I 29, 23o.
and fried, 21 1. Of a large Pul G A R L I C K, Chickens with
fet, with Ramolade-Sauce, 23o. Garlick, 85. A Leg of Mutton
Filets,with white Sauce, I 24, 176. fo dres'd, 24. Garlick-effence,81.
With Oifters, 124, With Gam Gatoe of Soles, 46, 246.
mon, ibid. Of Eggs, 1 18. With GEESE, roafted, 236. Green
Cucumbers, 124. Geee in a Daube, Io7. Farced, 2 12.
F E ET, Lambs-feet farced and Rcated, 226. In a cold Pie, 186.
fried, 122. Hoggs-feet la Sainte Godivoe, of a Poupeton, 131. In
Menehout, 192.Hoggs-feet in Soufce, a Pie, 18o.
246. Sheeps-feet or Trotters far A Godivoe for Fih-days, 17o:
ced, 266. GoosE-GIBBLETs, 26, 13 1.
Fricandoes, farced, 75 , 124. In a Pan-pie, 132.
Larded, ibid. Of Sturgeon, 248. G R A v Y, of Beef, 68, 122.
F R I c A s s 1 E s, of Pigeons, Of Veal, 132. Of Mutton, ibid.
187. Of Chickens, 85. With Of Partridges and Capons, ibid,
white Sauce, ibid. With Cream, Fih, ibid. 133.
ibid. Of Chickens, with Pike, 16. Grenade, 133.
Of Tenches, 25 1. Of Tortoi Grenadin, I 34.
fes, 254. With broiled Garniture, Grillade, 1 34.
28. -

Grnel, 135.
FRITTERs, made with Wa
H. .
ter, 125. Apple - fritters, 127.
Milk-fritters, 126. Blanc manger- H A R E in Civet, 89. In a
fritters, 126. Several other forts Pie, 185.
of Fritters, 127. A Haricot, 136. Of Pikes, 194.
F R o G G s, Potages made of Ducks, 18. Cutlets, Io 5. Stur
them, 223. geon, 249. Sea ducks, I Io.
F R u I r s, Pates, or Marme Haricots, or French Beans, how
fades made of them, 127. Fruits to drefs and preerve them, 6o.
in Jelly, 128. Hafhes, 135. Of Partridges,
|
ibid. Carps, ibid. Cray-fih, 92.
G.
Tenches, 25 1. Gammon, 63, 169.
Alantine, for an Intermes, Of Carps and other forts of Meats,
I28, 19 I. 1 35. Of Quavivers, 232.
Gallinawffy, 128. Hatlets, 136.
GAMMON, Effence, I 29. A H E A D s, 133. Of Fih, 137. |
Gammon-Pain, 17o. Gammon Of Pikes, 193. Of Salmon, 14o.
pies, 129, 13o. Gammon in a Of a wild Boar, 136. Lambs-heads,
Ragoo, i 3o. Gammon ina Hah, I 37 O ..' * }
- HIND,
W

A General Table of the Meffes, &c.


HIN D, how dres'd, 138. In LEGGS of Murton, farced, I 43
Civet, 89. Roated, 238. And in A Leg of Mutton farced with
a Pasty, 175. Cream, ibid. Farced in its Skin,
-

HouGHs, of a Stag and a wild I44. A la Royale, ibid. Larded


Boar, 199. and bak'd in a Por between two
Fires, 145. With Succory and
I. Cucumbers, ibid. . With Robert
I CE S for feveral forts of Things,
250.
fauce, 146. Roasted and bread
ed, 5. In a Pie, 185. With Gar
JE L L Y, for the Blanc-manger, lick, 24.
68, 69. Jellies for Intermeies, A LEGG of Veal in a Daube,
138. Of divers Colours, 139. Io6. Farced, 146. A l'Estoufade,
0f Harts-horn, 69. Of Fruits, or ftewed, ibid.
I28. LEMMON - PEEL, how to pre
felly-broth, 72. ferve it dry, 147. In Tarts,
ntermeffes, Dihes proper for 25 I /*

them, 32. LENTILS, a Cullis of them,


JOINTs of Beef, 61, 62, r Io3, IO4, 2oo. Potage, 2co, 2o1
|equ In an Oil, 2oI. Ina Ragoo, with
juice of Muhrooms, 16 1. . fine Herbs, ibid,
fulian, a fort of Potage, 14, 21, LETTICE, farced la Dame Si
45, I4O. monne, 147.
*
LEVERETS, larded, 148. After
R.
the Swi Way, ibid. In Potage
ID, for Side-dihes and Po after the Italian Mode, ibid. In a
tages, 141. Roasted, 237. Pie, 185. Leverets and Hares roat
KNUCKLE of Veal, in Potage, ed, 237. -

26, 2O4 f
Liquor, of Veal, 73. Chickens,
ibid. Capon, ibid. Strong Liquor
L. of Herbs, 19 1.
A M B, a Quarter of Lamb LOAF, fee Pain.
roafted, 2, 141, 237. For a LOBSTERS, 15 1.
Side-dih, 162. Potage of Lambs LoIN of Veal, half larded, 18.
heads, 137. Otherforts of Lamb Larded with Hatlets and garnihd
potages, i 37, 138. A Side-dih with Marianade, 29. In a Ra
of Lambs-heads, 138. . . Lambs goo, 272. In a Court - bouillon,
feet farced, 122. Lamb in a Ra ibid. -

800, 14 I. LoIN of Murton, dres'd la


LA M P R E Y s, a Side-dih of Sainte Menehoutand otherwie,163,
them, 141, 142. Lampreys in I 64. \
Potage, 142. In a Pie, 184. AM.
LARKS, in a Ragoo, 142 In
a Standing-pie, ibid. In a Pan A C K A R E L, 151. . . .
pie, ibid. In Porage, 7. Roated, Marinade, 15 1. Of Chic
237. kens, 152, Of Pigeons, ibid. Of
Par
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
Partridges, ibid. Of the Filets of A Neck and Breaft of Mutton,
a fat Pullet, 2 1 1. Of Veal, 152. 155. A large Joint of Mutton
Of Cutlets, 15. Of Fih, 153. roafted, 162. A Quarter of Mut
Of Ofters, 168. ton farced, ibid. Carbonnado d
MARMELADES, ; 27, 128. In Mutton, 163. A Loin of Mutton
Pan-pies, 174 a la Sainte Menbout and other
Mauviettes, farced, with Mu wife, 164, 165.
ftard, 28, 153. In Potage, I 53. See LEGGS of Mutton. )
Roated, 237. -

Menus-droits, of an Ox-palate, N.
153. Of Venifon, ibid. With Mu EATs - ToNGuEs, bakd
tard, 247. between two Fires, 154.
Meringues for garnihing, 153, Dried, 165. Side dihes of theni,
154. Piftachoe meringues, I 54. ibid. 166. A Neck of Mutton,
MILK, Almond-milk, 52. Po I 55
tage of Almond-milk, ibid. 53.
Mirotons of feveral forts, 154, 0.

r fequ. A Miroton for Fih-days, I L, a fort of Potage for


156, 1 57. Fleh-days, 166, 2 12. An
Mbrilles, in a Ragoo, 157. With Oil for Fih-days, 167. Ring
| Cream, ibid. 16o, 169. Fried, dove Potage in form of an Oil,
I 57. Farced, 13. In Potage, 2 13. 2O I - -

In a Tourte or Pan-pie, 262. In OISTERs, 167. Fih dres'd


an Omelet, 169. with Oifters, 193. Water-fowl,
Mouffrons, dres'd in a Ragoo, with Oifters, 18. Oifters in a
I 58. In Potage, 213. In an O Daube, 167. Farced, ibid. 168.
mlet, 169. How to prerve them, Marinated and fried, 168. In Po
16 I. tage, 196, 2 I 3, 224. In a Pn
Muhrooms, 159. Common Muh pie, 265. A Farce with Oifters,
rooms fried, 16o. In a Ragoo, 82.
ibid. With Cream, ibid. 169. 'otives, rr Pullets, and o
i Breaded and bakd, 16o. Farced, ther forts of Fowl with Olives,
ibid. In Potages, ibid. 16 I. In a I 68.
Pan-pie, 262. How to extrat Omelets, with Cream, of feve
their Juice, 161. And to preerve ral forts, 169. A fugard Omelet,
them, ibid. 162. 163. , A Gammon-Omelet, 169.
MULLETs, broil'd, fried and Farced Omelets, I 7o.
dres'd in a Ragoo, 158. In Stand Onion effence, 269, 27o. Onions
ing-pies and Pan-pies, ibid. with weet Bail, 35.
MUSCLES, in a Ragoo, 158. Ortolans roasted, 237. In a Tour
In Porage, i 59. In a Pan-pic, te or Pan pie, 256.
265
MUTTON,Cutlets, Io4. A Fil
let of Mutton, with Truffies, 124, P,
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
PIES, or tanding Pies hot for
P.
- -
Side-diihes, 177, 178, & equ.
Ains, of Gammon, 17o. Par Cold for Intermeies, 185, 186.
tridge-Pains, 171. A Veal After the German Way, i 79. Of
Pain,ib. A Spanih Pain,172.A Sole Larks, 142, 178. , After the En ~
Pain, 246. A farced Pain, for a glih Manner, 18 1, 182. Eel-pies,
Side-dih, 172. A farced Pain, or H 13, 1 14. Plate pies, 18o. A
Loafin Porage,22,23,2o6,2 I 1. Pie made of Eel- powts, 1 i 5.
PALATE of an Ox in Menus Dabs, i o 6, 182. Wood- cocks,
droits, I 53. - , 177, 186, 276. Pike, 194. Quails,
PAN-PIES, fee Tourter. 178. Ducks, 179, 186. Carps,
PARTRIDGES, with . Spanih 182, 183. Boned Capon, I 79.
Sauce, 172. In a Biberot, 173.: Young Chibbols, 18 1. Turkey
In a Daube, Io7. In a Hah, 135. powts, 178, 185. Leg of Mut
In Pies, 177, 186. In Marinade, ton, I 85. -

152. In Filets,with Gammon, 173. P H E A S A N T 8, 177, 186,


With Olives, 168. Bak'd between Thruhes, 178. Godivoe,18o. Fih
two Fires, 174. In a Grenadin, Godivne, 182. Gammon, 129, 13.
134. In Sur toat, 174, 189. With Rabbets, 185, 233. Hares and Le
Wood-cock-fauce, 173. With verets, 18 1, 182, 185, 186. Lam--
Pike-fauce, ibid. In Potages la prays, 184. Sea ducks, 1 1o. Mul
Reyne and others, 199, 2oo, 2os, lets, 182. Green Geee, 186. Par
202. . Partridges and young Par tridges, 177, 186. Pigeons, 178.
tridges roafted, 236. - Fat Pullets, 186. Chickens, 178,
-

PASTES, of Almonds, 51. Of 179. Fillet of Veal, i 8o, 18 5.,


Fruits, 127, 128 Syringed Pate, Roaches, 183. A Blood-pie, 18o,
52, 175. Pate forcrackling Cruft, 18 r. Wild Boar, 175. Teals,
I743 I 75 186. Soles, 18?, 184. Tunny,
-

PASTIES, 175. 184. Beef-ftakes,65, 185. Trout,


.
PEAS, green, in Cream, 59, 183. Turbot, ibid.
169. In a Miroton, 155. In Po PIGEONS, in a Bik, 67, 68.
tage, 198. In a Poupeton, 225. In a Poupeton, I 31, 225. In ftand
Petits-patez, or little Pies, af ing Pies, 178. With weet Bail,
ter the Spanih Way, 184. Made 9, 12, 15, 19, 22, 24, 29, 186
of Fih, ibid. -
With Fennel, 17, 21, 23, 24, )
PERCHEs, with Mouffrons and 187. Bak'd between two Fires,
Cream, 175. In Filets, with Cu ibid. In Com pote and in a Fri
cumbers, 176. With green Sauce, caffy, 187. With Gammen, ibid.
ibid. In Filets, with whiteSauce, With Truffles, i 88. A la Sainte
ibid. In Potages, 222. - Menehout, ibid. in Sur-tout, 188,
PH E A S A N T s, with Carp 189. In a Court bouillon, 188.
fauce, 176. In a hot Pie, 177, Dres'd au pere Davijet. I go. With
n Potage, 208. Pheafants and Gravy, ibid. In a Marinade, i 52.
Pheaant-powts roafted, 236. Ia n a Grenadin, 134. In a Cullis,
acold Pie, 186. o2, Roasted,236. Stuff d with a
! } } , Fih
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
Fih-farce, I 31, 265. In Potages, Chibbols, with Milk, 2 18. Offar
2o I , 2o5, 29. ced Chickens, 2o4, 25. Chic
PIG, a Sucking-pig farced, 19o. kens, with green Peas foop, 198,
Dres'd after the German Way, ib. 25. Chickens, with Afparagus,
191. In Galantine, 191. Roafted, 1o, 2 15. Chickens, with Lettice,
237. Au Pere Douillet, 192. 11, 12, 215. Chickens, with Oni
PIGs-PETTIToEs, la Sain ons, 2o4, Chickens, with Tur
te Menehout, 192. neps, 199. Chickens, with Cucum
PIKEs,with Oifters, 193. Dres'd bers, 23. Chickens, with Suc
four feveral Ways, ib. 194. With cory, 2 i 1. Citrulls, with Milk,
Sauceafter the German Mode, 193. 217. Crabb-fifh farced,225: Cray
In Filets,marinated and fried,193, fih, 92. Of Crusts farced with
194. In Filets with white Sauce, Partridge-breafts,25,2o6. Crusts
194. In Filets, with Cucumbers, farced with Lentils, 2o6. Crufts,
ibid. In tanding Pies, 194. In farced with Gammon, ibid. Crufts --

Haricot, with Turneps, ibid. In ftuff'd with Perches, and other


a Court-bouillon, 195. Farced,ibid. forts of Fih, 222. Of Cucum
In Cafferole, ibid. With Anchove bers, 25, 215. Of Ducks, with
fauce, bid. Roasted Pike, 196. Peas, 1e8, 1o9, 198. Ducks, with
For an Intermes, on Fleh-days, a Lentil-cullis, Io8, 2oo. Ducks,
ibid. In Potages, ibid. In a Tourte, with Turneps, Io8, 199. . Young
or Pan - pie, 264. A Sauce, or wild Ducks, 16. Sea-ducks, 1 11.
thickening Liquor for Pikes, 87. Of Eels, 1 13. Eel-powts, I 14,
PIKES-LIVERS, 264. I 15. Of Fennel, 2 16. Of Froggs,
PILCHARDs, marinated, 153. 223. Of Goats-bread, 2 r4. Of
PISTAcHoEs, in Cream, 93. green Geefe, 12, 14, 198, 2 12
In a Tourte or Pan-pie, 263. Gooe-gibblets, 26, 131. Of Hops,
PLAICE in a Cafferole, 197. 214. Of the Houghs of a Stagor
Fried Plaice, ibid. wild Boar, 199. Potage after the
PLovER, roasted, 236. Italian Way, 148, 212. Of Kid,
Ala Polacre,Chickensfodres'd, r41. Of Lambs-heads, 137, 138,
f8, 198. Of Larks, 7, 31, 2o1, 208
PorAGE, f Almond-milk, 52, Lentils, 2oo, 2o 1. Farced Let
53. Of Andhuilles, with Peas, 55, tice, 21 3. Leverers, 148. Macka
56, 198. Andouillets, 37. Arti rel, 151. Marbled Potage, 2 i 5.
chokes, 218. Afparagus, 21 5. Of Manviettes, 153. Melons, 2 17.
Of a Breaft of Veal, 21 1. Of Milk-potage, 135. With Yolks
Cabbage, 75, 196, 199, 2oo, 216, of Eggs, 155. Potage of Morilles
217, 218. Of a boned Capon, and Moufferons, with Cream, 2 13.
with Oifters, 2 13. Capon, with Mufcadine-grapes, 217. Mucles,
a Cullis of Lambs-livers, 5. Ca 159. Muhroonis, 16o, 161. Wih
pon, with Cucumbers, 25. Ca Oifters, 196. Of Onions, 2o4,
pon, with Rice, 207. Capon, 2o 5, 2 14. Parmifan, 81, 299,
with Roots, 2oo. Of Cardoons, 21c. Of Partridges, with a Cullis
25, 214, 217. Carps, 8o. Young a l Reyne and otherwie, 2or,
*
2O2 v
:

A General Table 7 the Meffes, &c.


22. Partridges,with brown Broth, farced Tenches, 224, 225. Of
21o, 211. Partridges, with Len Tortoies, both for Fleh and .
tils, 2oo. Partridges, with Cab Fih-days, 22 t, 222. With Truf
bage, 199. Of green Peas, 198, fes, 28. Of Turbet, 219. Of
216. Of Perches, 222. Of Phea young Turkeys with Succory, 12,
fant-powts, with Truffles, 208. Of 2 I I. Young Turkeys, with Peas,
Pigeons, with a white Cullis, 2 5, 198. Young Turkeys, with Cu
zo9. Pigeons with brown Cullis, cumbers , 2o 5. With Turneps,
29. Pigeons, with Radihes,ibid. 196, 199, Of Vermicelli, 2o7. Of
Pigeons, with Cabbage, 199, 2oo. Vine-buds, 2 16. White Potage,
Pigeons with Onions or Cardoons, 2o1, 2o2, 2 12. . Potage without
2o5- Pigeons, with Lentils, 2oo. Butter, 2 13; Without Water,203.
Of Pike, 195, 196, 197. Of a fat For other forts of Potages, fee
Pullet with Roots, 2oo. Pullets, Bisks, Cafferoles, fulians and Oils."
with Succory, 2 i 1. Pullets, with Pot-pourri, 225. |

Rice, 27. Pullers with a brown Poupetons, 121, 225, 226. For
Cullis, 2 I 1, 2 12. Of Purflain, Fih-days, 226.
214. Of Profirrolle,2o6,27. Pro Poupiets roafted and breaded,
fitrolle for Fih-days, 223, 224. Of 226. Larded, ibid.
Quails, 23 1, 232. Quails, with a PU D D I N G s, white Hoggs- -
Blanc-manger, 21o, Quails, with puddings,227. Black,ibid. & 228.
fweet Bafil, 286, 23. Quails far OfCapons-livers, 228. Of Calves
ced with Capons: breafts, 202, livers, ibid. }

2o3: Quails, with Truffles, 208. PULLETs, a fat Pullet, with


Quails in a Birk, 68. Quails in Olives, 168. After the Englih
form of an Oil, 2o1. Quails, la Way, 228, 229. Bak'd between
Reyne, ibid. & 22. Quails, with two Fires, 15, 86, 23o. Farced
Roots, 2oo. Of Quavivers, 222. with Cream, 229. With Gam
With Radihes, 29, 2 14. A la mon - auce, 23o. In a Ragoo,
Reyne, 2o1, 22. With Rice, 81. with Truffles, 188, 23o. A la sain
A la Royale, , 224. Of young garax, 23o, 234. A la Sainte
Ring- doves, with Turneps and Menehout, 22. After everal other
Roots, 2oo. Ring doves in form Manners,23o. Accompanied with
of an Oil, 2o I. Potage, with a delicious Farce, ibid. In Filets,
Roots, for all forts of Fowl, 2oo. with Cucumbers, 64. With a
OfSalmon,219. Potages de Saint, Cray-fih-cullis, 23.
2o4, 2 1 3. Of Skirrets, 2 14. Of
farced Soles, 2 19. Soles for Fleh Q:
days, 22o, 221. Of Spinage, 2 16. -UIA I I. S, in a Bisk, 68.
Of young Sprouts, 214. Of Stur - Quail-potages, of everal
geon, 2 18. With Succory, 2 i 1.
forts, 186, 2oo, 2o1, ao2, 23,
Of Teals and other forts of Fowl, ao8, 21o, 231, 232, Bak'd or
with Muhrooms, 208. Teals, flew'd between two Fires, 23 I.
with Turneps, 199. Of young In a hot Pie, 178. In a Poupe
Teals, with weet Bafil, 23. Of ton, 13 I, 225. In a Ragoo, 231
fd n wirh
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
with fweet Bail, as Pigeons, 186. ROBERT-Sauce, 111, 146, 246,
1 arge Quails and young Quails 4 52-
roafted, 236. |
for - BUCK , order'd feveral
Q u A R T E R, of Lamb, 141, Wass, 239. In a Pasty, 175
162. Of Murton, 9, 162. Of Veal, Roasted, 238.
I 1, 272. ROOTS , Entertainments with
QUAvIvERs or Sea - dragons Roots, 47.
dres d in a Ragno, 232. In Fi Roulades of Veal, 239, 24o.
lets, with Cucumbers, ibid. With
S.
white Sauce and Capers, ibid. In
a Hah, ibid. Aingaraz, Mear dres'd in that
manner, 17, 18, 21, 27, 234. .
R.
Sainte Menehout, Piggs-pettitos
Abbets, in a hot Pie, 233. fo order d, 192. A Loin of Mur
Rabbets and young Rab ton, 163. Pigeons, Chickens and
bers in a cold tanding Pie, 186. other forts of Fowl, a la Sainte
The fame in a Cafferole, 23 g. Menehout, 83, 188, 229.
Young Rabbets, with white and SALLETs of Fih, 41. With
brown Sauce, ibid. Old and young Roots and Herbs, 5o, -

Rabbets in a Teurte or Pan - pie SALMN, freh for Fih-days


and otherwife, ibid. Young Rab 24o. In a Cafferole, ibid. With
bers, with Gammon - fauce, ibid. fweet Sauce, and otherwie, 241.
A la Sairgaraz, 15, 18, 234. Rab In a Ragoo, 24o
bets, roated, 237. Salpicon, 241.
- Ramequins, 234. SANDLING, ee DAB.
SAUCE, after the Spanih Way,
Ramolade-Sauce, 41, 163, 188,
23o. 28, 172, 173. White Sauce, 85,
-

RESTAURATIVE Broth,or Po i 12, i 94. Brown Sauce, 84, I 12.


tage without Water, 203. Wood cock-fauce,87. Pike-fauce,
RIB (Short) of Beef, dres'd ibid. Sauce after the German
a la G5d. d. 61. After the Englih Mode, 193. Anchove-fauce, 195,
way, i tu. with Cucumbers, 244, Carp - fauce, 176. Gam
ibid. Farced, 62. The Filets of mon-fauce, 129,23o. Robert fauce,
a hort R' in its own Gravy, 25. I I I, 146, 246, 453. Sauces for
RING DOVE S and young Ring cold Meats broil'd upon the Grid
doves i afieu, 235. iron, 163, 188. Sweet-auce, 27,
Riffles, of Capons - breafts, 247. Ramolade fauce, 41, 163,
23 , 235. -
188, 23o. Sauces proper for the
RoACHES, marinated, 235. Roast meat',238. Green Sauce,44.
Dres d in a Ragoo, and after di SAUSAGES, of Pork, 241, 242.
vers Manners, ibid. Of Veal,242. Royal Sauages,ibid.
ROAST-MEAT, for every Sea ScoT CH - CoL Lops, ee Fri
fon, 8, 2o, 27, 32. How to pre candoes. -

pare and ferve it up to Table, SEA-DRAGONS, fee QUAVI


235, 3 feq, - e ' ,
' SEA
M
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
SEA - FISH, for Fleh - days, Menehout, 248. In Fricandoes, or .
267, 268. Collops, ibid. In Haricot, with
SEASONING Ingredients, 62. Turneps, 249. In a Court-bouillon,
SHAD, roasted, or broil'd upon ibid.
, the Grid-iron, 243. In a Court SUCCORY, a Leg of Mutton,
bouillon, Ibid. with Succory, 145. In Potage,
SHEEPS - trotters, farced and 2I I
with white Sauce, 266. SUR-Tour, Pigeons and oth
SHOULDER of Mutton, dresd forts of Fowl in Sur tout, I 88,
feveral Ways, 128, 146. In a Ra 189.
goo, 7. In Potage, 199. - SWEET-souR,Sauce,247. Pie,
SIMNELS, iced, 243, 244. or Tart, 25o.
SMELTS, in a Court - bouillon,
244. Fried, with Anchove-fauce, T. -

ibid. Stew'd, ibid. In Potage, F- PIECE of Cod, in a


ibid. s- .

Smelt-Filets in a Sallet, 41.


-
Cafferole and otherwie, 9o.
A Salmon farced, 24o.
SNIPES,ina Ragoo,244, Roast TA R T S , a broil'd Peach
ed, 236. - - -
tart, 25o. Of Cherries and o
-

SoLs after the Spanih Mode, ther Fruits, 249. A Sweet-four .


244,245. Fried, 245. In Filets, Tart, 250. Apple-tarts and o
with Cucumbers, ibid. Frced fe thers, ibid. & 251. A Cream
veral Ways, 2 I 9, 22o, 245, 246. tart, 94, 25 I. Plum-tarts, 174,
Sole-Filets, with a Lentil-cullis, 25O.
246. With a Caper-cullis, ibid. . T E A L S, roasted, 236. In a
With Truffles, ibid. With Robert Pie: 186. In Porage, 28.
Sauce, ibid. With Cray-fih, 83. T E N C H E s, in a Fricaffy,
Soles, with weet Bafil, 246. In 25 I. In a Hah, ibd. In Caf- -
a Marinade, 153. Sole - Gatoes, ferole, ibid. Farced, 224. In a
246. Ragooe and otherwie, 25 i. Fri
SORREL, in Cream, as Apa cd, in refined Butter, ibid.
ragus, 59, 169. Terrine, a Side - dih fo call'd
Soufce, for Intermeffes,246,247. 155, 25 I, 252. - -
SPINAGE, . with Cream, 59, T H R LI S H E S, in a hot Pie,
169. In an Omelet, 169. In Po 178. In a Ragoo, 252. In Po
tage, 2 16. In a Pan-pie, 26 1. tages, ibid. Roasted, 237.
STAKES, of Beefor Veal rolled
up, 63, 64. / -
T O N G u E s, Neats tongues
bakd between two Fires, 164.
-

STAGG, everal Ways of dref. Dried, 165. In a Ragoo, ibili.


fing it, 247, 248. In Civet, 89. After fome other Manners, ibid.
In a Ragoo, 248. In Pasties, 175 & 166., Hoggs - tongues dried,
In Potage, 199. Roated,238. Cut 253: Sheeps-tongues dried, 234.
into Menus-droits, 153. - Broil'd, 16. Dres'd feveral o
STocK-FISH, fee CoD. FISH. ther Ways, ibid. Calves-tongnes
STuRgEoN, drest'dala Sainte farced in a Ragoo, 252 , 252.
Other
A General Table of the Meffes, &c.
Other Ways of dresting them, T R ou T s, broiled, ibid
2 : 2 Dres'd for Fih-days, 267.
'forroises, ina Fricaffy and T R U F F L E S, in a Court-bou
otherwife, 254. illon, 268. Broil'd upon the Coals,
T O s T s , covered with a ibid. With Mutton - gravy and
Vood - cock- farce, 235. With otherwie, ibid. In an Omelet,
Capons-livers, ibid. With Veal with Cream ; 169. Filets and
kidneys, ibid. Ragoo's with Truffler, 64, 65,
Turtes or Panpies, of Almonds, I 88. \

53, 54, 94. Artichokes of eve T U N N I E s, in Filets, 268.


ral forts, 261. Afparagus, ibid. In a Sallet, 41, 268. In a Ma
Of Beatils, 259. Fih - Beatils, rinade, 153. Broil'd upon rhe
265. Beers, 25 o. . Butter, 259, Grid-iron and otherwie , 268.
26o. Capons-breafts, 257. Ca In a Pie, 184. In a Poupeton,
pons - livers, ibid. Carps- roes 226, 268.
and Tongues, 264. T U R B o T, in a Court-bouillon,
Chickers,
88. Coloured Pan-pies, 263. Of 269. For Fleh-days, ibid.
Crackling Cruft, 175. Cray-fih, T u R KE Y s, in a Daube, 17.
263 , 264. Eels. I 14. Eggs, Roafted, 236. -

262. Gammon, 258. Gooe-gib TuRKEY - Powrs, or young


blets, 132. Lard, 26o. Larks, Turkeys, farced with fine Herbs,
142. Lemmon-peel, 263. Mar 16, 269, 27o. Dres'd with Oni
melade, i 74. Marrow, 26o. on - etience, 27o. With Gam
Mauviettes, 256. Melons, 25o. mon-fauce, as Chickens, 82. In
Morilles and Mouffrons, 262. Mul a Salmigund, as Wood-cocks, 275.
lets, I 58. Mufcies, 265. Muh In Filets, with Cucumbers, 27o.
ooms, 262. Order'd everal other Ways, ibid.
| Neats-tongues, 258. Ofters, In a ftanding Pie, 178, 186.
265. Orange, 263. Ortolans, Roated, 236. In Potages, 198,
256. Of Perches, 265. Pige 2O5, 2 I I. -

geons, 189, 19O, 256. Pigeons T U R N E P s, in Potage, 196,


ftuff'd with a Fih - farce, 265. 199. ln Haricot, I Io, 194 ,
Pike, 264. Pike - livers, ibid. 249.
Piftachoes, 263. Pomegranates, T U R T L E - D o v E S, roat
ibid. Quails, 256. Rabbets, 233. ed, 236.
Salmon, 264, Sheeps - tongues,
258. Smelts, 264. So'es, ibid. U.
Sorrel-juice, 262. A Tourte af D D E R of a Calf, with
ter the Spanih Way, 256. Of fweet Sauce, 27.
Spinage, 261. A fugar'd Tourte V E A L, dres'd after the Ita
or Pan pie, 26o. Of farced Ten lian Way, 271. A la Bourgeoie,
ches, 265. Tortoies, ibid. Truf. 29, 271, 272. Scallop'd Veal,
fies, 262. Veal-weet-breads, 258, I 25. . Veal - cutlets, 104, 1 o 5.
259. Veal kidneys, 259. Veal-stakes roll'd up, 64. A Loin
TROTTERS, 266. of Veal, 18, 272. A Quarter of
- Veal,
N

A General Table of the Meffes, F.


Veal, ibid. A Crupper of Veal,
273. A Breaft of Veal in a Ra - W.
goo, ibid. Marinated Veal, 152. VV Ater-fwl roasted, 236.
Farced with Oifters, Io8.
A Filler of Veal in a Ragoo, 27.
With Oifters, 32, WHITE, as White Thickening
V E A L - c A U L s , 98. A Liquors and Ragoo's: See Fricaj
Farce wrapt up in a Veal-caul, f), Cullis, Sauce, &c.
ibid. & 242. Capons-livers drefs'd WHITINGS, in Cafferole, 27;.
in the fame manner, 149. Farced, ibid. Whiting-Fileti in
VEAL-swEET-BREADs, far Sallet, 41, 275.
ced a la Dauphine, 17, 22, 274. W O O D - C o C K s, dres'd
Orderd after feveral other man in Sur - rout, 189. With Wine,
ners, ibid. 275;. In a Salinigund, 27s, 276.
Vermicelli in Potage, 27. With Olives, 168. In Pies, I 7,
186, 276. Woodcock-auce, 87.
Vinaigrette, or Vinegar and Pep Wood - cocks roated, 236. In
per-fauce for Beef, 65. Sur tut, as Pigeons, 189, 276.
,
i

T H E
'.

!
* *
... -- -

PREFACE
READER
Ince this Work is not the firt that has been fet
forth on the fame Subje&, there is no neceity
\ of jutifying the Deign of it againt the Cavils
of malevolent and cenorious Carpers, who are
no les ready to debar Mankind of the Ufe of thee
forts of Dainties, than of that of Ragoo's and high
feaon'd Meats, a jut Vindication of which is in
fcribd in the Preface to the Court and Country-Cook,
equally oppoing their erroneous Opinion, That thee
Dainties tend only to the impairing of the Health and
the hortening of Humane Life: And indeed, nothing
is more natural than fuch an Apology, in this Cafe;
nt to make mention of Fruits, againt the ue of
which, without doubt, no Objection can be made, as
being the mot innocent Prodctions of Nature. As
for the ret of thee Varieties, when us'd with dua
moderation (which is always to be preupposd) do
they not afford almot innumerable Delights and Ad
vantages; to deny which to the Exigencies of Man
kind would be a fignal Piece of Injutice, more epeci
ally in regard that they are of fo great energy in the
comforting as well of healthful Perons, as of thoe
that are fick, or indiposd? ,
- - | La al This
|
The Preface to R
Ts is a Truth fo well known, that the Ulfe of
Sweet-meats, is allow'd even in the mot retired Fa
milies, and beides the peculiar Trade of Confetion
ers, there are many Perons of Quality, and accom
plih'd Ladies, who fometimes divert themfelves with
making feveral forts of Comfits. Therefore perhaps
it may be objeted, That there is no need of any nevr
Intrutions in a Matter that is fo obvious , but if o
ther Arts are dail improv'd, is there not ground to
believe, that this may alo be brought to farther Per
fetion? Which wili be more plainly made manifet
by means of this Treatife, wherein are containd
feveral Methods of Preerving Fruits and other par
ticular Circumtances, that are altogether new, and
quite different from the common Pratice, as alo from ,
what has been before written on this Subjet by any
Authors: Fr it may be fufpeted, That in laying
down fuch imperfet Rules and Diretions, (not tor
mention the unprofitable Repetitions usd by them,
on purpoe to augment the Bulk of their Volumes) -
they had no other Deign but to abue the Publick 3.
being fully reolv'd before hand, not to dicover the
Secrets of their Art. -

Indeed, it is certain, That fuch a Dicovery (as it


ought to be expeted here) cannot be really made by
any Perfon, without doing himelf a coniderable In
jury ; in regard, that by reaon of the eafines of
making all forts of wet and dry Sweet-meats, ac
cording to the Intrutions that are given, the meanet
Houe-keepers, or Chamber-maids might afterwards,
fet up for Confectioners and Butlers, and perform the
greatet Part of the Fun&tions of thoe Officers: Hence
it comes to pas, that fo great a Number of Noble Fa
milies uually dipenfe with fuchOfficers; and how ma
ny other Artits of the firt Rank would be likewife
difregarded, if the Oeconomy of that Northern Prince
were in requet, who having once caus'd his Deert
- - - tO
TZ: Preface to the Reader.
to be dres'd, orders it to be carefully lock'd up in
his Preence, in the Appartment, where he takes his
Royal Repat, every time that it is ferv'd up to his
/
Table, which is as long as it lats, and always keeps
the Key in his Pocket?
Foramuch as the Officers of the Mouthare employd
to fomewhat better purpofe, in thee Parts, it is here
deign'd to do them a Pleaure , by cauing them to
be intructed in every Thing that is mot modern,
generally receiv'd, and mot curious, relating to the
principal Part of their Employment, that is to fay,
the Art of Preerving Sweet-meats, treating of it as
methodically, and with as much Perpicuity, as is
poible. It is acknowledg'd, That if any Perons be
defirous to attain to Perfetion in this Art, and to
comprehend all its abtrufe Myteries, with greater
Facility, 'tis requiite, that they work for fome time,
under thoe that are Maters of it; fo that by the
means of frequent Practice, theyll foon undertand,
at a cat of the Eye, feveral Preparations, which
cannot otherwife be well explaind: Among thee,
the particular Way of making Sugar-plums, is more
epecially remarkable, as abolutely depending upon
an habitual Exercife, and this Reflection affords Mat
ter of Confolation, to Mater-Confetioners and other
Officers, who have laid out Money and fpent a con
fiderable time in acquiring their Skill, and who may
perhaps take it ill, that the Grounds of their Art are . '
fo freely communicated to Perons, that may make
ufe of it to their Prejudice,
However, if the Advantage, in this Particular re
dounds to the Publick, they themelves may alo re- -
ceive fome Benefit, from the aitance of thee In
trutions, which may ferve, as it were a Manual, for
the refrehing of their Memories; fo that it will be an
eaiy matter for them to take notice in every Seafon,
what is mot proper to be Preferv'd and brought to
La a 2 ] Table,
M
TF The Preface to the Reader. ' * *-

Table, according to the Entertainments which ar


requiite feveral Occaions, and the particular ,
Cutoms of Nble-mens Houes, in which they are
entertaind., If their Methods are not altogether con
formable, in certain Articles, to that which is here A

expres'd, nevertheles let them not rejet it, till they


have made a Tryl; and if after fuch an Experiment,
they till have an Inclination to follow their accutom
ed Pratice, they may be at liberty to continue it :
Altho' it may be averrd, That nothing is here de
liverd, but what has been confirmd by Experience,
with repet te the feveral Ways of Preerving the
richet and mot delicious forts of Sweet-meats and
Comfits. -

The whole Work is concluded with different Mo


dels for Deferts, or entire Banquets of Sweet-meats,
and a fhort Treatife of Liquors; the ordering of
which, belongs likewife to certain peculiar Officers:
But no notice is here taken of fome other Circum- :
ftances relating to their dometick Concerns; fuch as
the ditribution of Bread aud Wine, the care that
ought to be taken of the Plate in their Cutody, the
particular manner of laying the Cloth, furnihing the
Table, & s. Becaue the management of Affairs of
the like nature is never committed to Novices, or :
Perfons who are fo ignorant, as to tand in need of
any other Intrutions in thee Matters, than what
their own Dicretion, or their Mater Orders may
1eadily ugget to them. : :

- , -- -

The
The C o N T E N r s of the New Instru-
&tions for Confectioners.
- * , , , ,

HP. I, 2 the diferent Ways of Boiling Sugar;


, fthe Choice ofit; and of the Azam. of Clarify
ing it, * - Page 1|
Chap. 2. Of the Utenfils and Instruments neceary for
a Confectioner, and of their C/e, v 6.
Chap. 3. Of the Confectioners Em loyment throughoue
the whole Tear, according to the s of Flowers and
Fruits, , .. . . . . . Io
Chp. 4. Of green Apricock, 16
Chap. 5. Of ripe Apricocks H9
Chap. 6. Of green Almonds, 21||
Chap. 7. Several other Ways ofpreerving Almond, /23
Chap. 8. Ofpreerv'd Cherri, a well dry as liquid, 27
Chap. 9. Of Strawberries and ka erries, 3 E|
Chap. 1o. Of Gooeberries and Currans, 32
Chap. I 1. Of Walnuts, - - - * 36
Chap. 12. Of Plums, - 37
9hap. 13. Qf Pears preerv'd dry and liquid, 4O .
Chap. 14. Of Peaches and Figgs, * 42
Chap. 15. Of Apples, 4-55
Chap. 16. Qf Beli-grapes aud Mustadine-grapes, 47
Chap. 17. Of Quinces,and Marmelade made ofthem, 49
9hap. 18. Of Oranges and their Flowers, 52
Chap. 19. Of Lemmons, 56
Shap. 2o. Of Cedres, 'Limes andyellow Citrons, r
Shap. 21. OfCompotes for the whole ncar, 63
Chap. 22. Of the Conferves of Flowers and Fruits, 74.
Chap. 23. Of AMarmelades, | 76
Chap. 24. Of the Pastes of Fruit, 8I
Chap. 25. Of the feilies ofFruits, 87
Chap. 26. OfBiskets, 9o
Chap. 27. Of March: ane', - 97
Th Contents of the New Instrufions, &c.
Chap. 28. Of Meringues and Macaroons, , 1o2
Chap. 29. Of Pastils, I O4.
Chap. 3o. Of the Caramel Sugar-work and candyd
Comfits, : - - , , - , , I o6
Chap. 31. Qf Moes, and Sultanes, Ie9
Chap. 32. Of certain natural and artificial Flowers, 1 1o
Chap: 33. Qf Pies made of Crackling Crust and Puff
A : e - . .. .. . . * * * * * - I I
P 'ap 34. Of Chefnuts and Mulberries, with fome
ticular Obervations upon everal other forts of Fruits, i 17
Chap. 35. Of the Accidents that may happen to Sweet
meats, and of proper Means for the remedying of them, i 22
Chap. 36. The Way of Ordering and etting out a Defert
or other Regalio of the like nature to the best advantage,
with fome Models of uch Entertainments, I 25
-
~ * ,
-

- , ,, , ''
- * * * - A A c. -

, : : - . ... . -
r ' - - * * * -

4 * w } - *

' , } ;
( . . |

* , i i- :

t
, ' . - -

}
* * , / ,
* * . . ' - -
t

: * * - The
1 * * * - *

* * *
- *
* ~

, ! :

s* -

*
-=t

: /

- tions for Liquors. i


Hap. 1. Of the iced Waters of Furr, rige n' |-

Chap. 2. Of the iced Waters of Fruits, 4


Chap. 3. Of Liquors that are proper for the Win
ter-Seafon, , - B
Chap. 4. Of Hippocras and fome other Liquers, 1e
Chap. 5. Several forts of Retafiaz. I3
Chap. 6. Of the Syrups of Flowers, I5
Chap. 7. Of the Syrups of Frnits, &c, I3

* )

i f.

A TA B L x

*3
A r a s t * explaining certain Terms of Art and
French Wordius'din thee Instruitions for Con
feitioners.
B. . - festioners, to give their Jellie,
Igarrade, a kind of great O Paste, Sugar-works, rc. a blew
Tinture. .
range. -
-

istotin, a fort of Confe


&tion made of fine Flower, the
whites of Eggs, Powder-ugar, Azarines, a fort of sthalf
Marmelade, &c. * * * * * -
Tarts fill'd with Sweet
II] CatS,
Blanquet, a fort of Pear.
Mirabolans, certain Plums,
C. which are cold in the firt De
Aramel, the fixth and laft gree and dry in the econd ; er
Degree of Boiling Sugar : ving to trengthen, purge and
Alfo, a curious Sugar - work o bind at the fame time.
call'd. - *
N.
Cedre, a kind of Citron, or
Lemmon. Ompareil, a kind of mall
Certoe, a fort of French Pear. Sugar-plum
Compote, stewed Fruit, moree | O.
fpecialiy Apples,Pears,Flums,s. -Rangeade, a cooling Liquo?
D. made of the Juice of Oran
Auphine, as a Compote a la ges and Lemmons, with Water
~
I Dauphine, a particular Way and Sugar.
of stewing Apples ; as it were, P.
for the Dauphin's Table.
Defert, a Banquet of Sweet D)Armefan,a fort of Cheee made
B1CAUS at Parma, a City of Italy.
Pastille, a kind of odoriferous
F. Sugar-paste, of which there are
Euillantins, certain mall Tarts feverai forts fpecified under that
of the brezdth of the Palin Article, in the Body of the Book.
of a Mans Hand, fill'd with Sweet Petit - choux, a kind of Pate,
IlCatSe proper for garnihing and other
ues made of Cheefe, Flower,Eggs,
I. Salt, rc. bak'd in a Pie-pan and
Ndigo, a Stone brought out of ic'd over with fine Sugar. R
Turkey, commonly us'd by Dy
R.
ers to die blew ; as alo by Cou
T

A Table explaining Terms of Art, &c.


manner, as Almand ugar plum :
R.
| See the lat Article of Almonds,
Atafiaz, a delicious Liquor Pag 26. . . -

made of Cherries, or Apri


cocks and other Fruits with their T.
Kernels bruied, infus'd in Bran Ambour, a kind of fine Sieve
dy; adding , Sugar, Cinnamon, call'd a Drum, proper for
white Pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves, the fifting of Sugar, c.
Mace, Ginger and ome other In Turning, a particular way of
gredients. -
paring Oranges and Lemmons:
Rouffelet, a kind of Ruffet-pear. This Term of Art fignifies to pare
A la Royale, a particular Way off the uperficial Rind, or Peel,
of preerving Cherries as it were, on the out-fide very thin and nar
after the Royal Manner, row, with a little Knife, proper
for that purpoe; turning it round
S.
about the Lemmon or Orange, o
Iamoie, as Amandes a la Sia as the Peel may be extended to a
moife, a particular Way of very great length, without Break
preerving Almonds ; explain'd 1ng- -

under the firt Article of that


Fruit, Chap. 7. Z.
Sultane, a kind of Sugar-work, Effs, certain Chips of o
made of Eggs, Powder-ugar and range, or Lemmon-peel,
fine Flower. cut long-wife, from top to bot
Sur-tout, as Piftachoes in Sur tom, as thin, as it can poibly be
tout; that is to ay, cover'd with done : . See the fecond Article of
Sugar and order'd after the fame Lemmons, *
,

A General T A B L E of the Sweet-meats, Comfits,


Sugar-works, Fruits and other Matters containd
in this Treatife of the Confectionary Art.
A. Birkets made of Alminde, 9o 91:
ccidents that may happen to Of Chocolate, 92. Of Lemmons
A Sweet - meats, 122, 123, and Oranges, 92, 93. Savoy, qr
124 French Bikets, 93, 94: Lisbon
Almonds, how preerv'd green, bikets, 94. Light iced Bifkets,
2I, 22. A la Siamoie, 23, 24. 95. Common Bifkets, ibid. For
Blown, 24. Iced, ibid. Crip Al Lent, 96. Crackling-bikets, ibid.
monds, 24, 25, 26. Gray, 24. Boiling of Sugar, 1, 2. & Sequ.
Red, 25. white, ibid. Ofa Gold Smooth, 2, Pearled, ibid. Blown,
colour, 26. Alinonds in Compotes, 3. Feather'd, ibid. Crack'd, ibid.
64. Almond-paste, 82. Caramel, ibid. & 4. -

Amber-plums, preerved, 38. Broomfiwers, preervd, 1 12.


Anis preferv'd and iced, i 13. A C. -

Apples, green preferv'd , 45.


7ohn-apples and Pippirs in quar- - Andy'd Comfits, 16, ro7.
zers, 46. Apples in Compotes, 7o. Caramel-bniling of Sugar,
71. Pate of Apples, 84. Mar 3, 4, A Sugar-workfo call'd, Io8.
melade, 79. Jelly, 89. . Cedres, green in Sticks or in
Apricocks, green preferv'd, 16. Quarters, 61. Ripe Cedres pre
17. Pard, 18. Ripe Apricocks, fery'd, ibid. & 62.
Pard, 19, 2o. Apricocks pre Certoe-pears preerv'd, 4r.
ferv'd in half Sugar, 2o. In Ears, Cherries, in Ears, 27. Preerv'd
ibid. Hn Compotes , 63, 64, 66. in half Loaf fugar, ibid. In half
Marmelades of Apricocks, 77, 78. Powder fugar, 28. Liquid, ibid.
Pastes, 82, 83. Pastils, ros. Dry, with Strawberries, 29. In
Aubicons, or Feaver-figgs pre Bunches, ibid. Booted a la Royale,
ferv'd, 45. ibid. - After the manner of Tours,
ib. & 3o. Cherry-cakes, 3o. Cher
B. ries in Compotes, 65. In a Caramel
Arberry-conerve, 76., Sugar-work, 18, 1o9. Iced, 3 r.
Barley - fugar, how pre Conferves of Cherries, 74, 75.
par'd,, 722. * Marmelades , 77 , 78. Jellies,
Bell-grapes, preferv'd liquid, 88. Pates, 82.
47. Dry, ibid. & 48. Pard, 12o. Chenuts, preerv'd, 118. In
Jelly ef Bell grapes, 48. Compotes, Compotes, 73. - -

72. Paste, 85, 87, 12o. -


Chips, # zests. \
Bergamot pears preerv'd, 41; Cinnamon, candy'd, 106, ro7.
Bifatins, 96, 97. ' In Pastils, io4.
i is - -* s -- * **
-
Ci
",
'"

a 77 Talk ofthe Sweet-meats, Comfits, F.


Citrons, how preerv'd, and
D.
dry'd, 62. In ests, or Chips, -

Eferts, how orderd and fet


Clove-pastils, 16. Out, I2 5
Comfits,made and kept through
out the whole Year, Io, I 1, I2, E.
r equ. - - - - . Mployment, of Confetioners
ompores, for the whole Year, - throughout the Year, 1o,
63, 64, equ. Of green Apri 1 I2 I2, G fequ. *

cocks, 63, 64 Of ripe Apricocks, *


F.
66. Gf green Almonds, 64; Gf
green Goofberries, 65. Of Cher of Oranges, 55. Of
ries, ibid. Of Plums, 7. OfSum | 1. Lemmons, 6o,
F
mer-pears, 68. Of other forts of - Fennel, candy'd, Io7. Several
Pears, ibid. Of Pears stew'd in a Ways oficing it, II 3. . .
Bell, 69. Of roasted Pears, ibid. Feuillantins, what, 1 17.
of Apples, 7o. Of Apples a la Figgs, preferv'ddry, 44. Green
Dauphine, ibid. Of farce :
Figgs, 45, 119, 12o. Genoa-figgs,
71. Of Peaches, ibid. Of Bell or Feaver-figgs, 45.
grapes, 72. Of Quinces, ibid. & Flowers of Oranges preerv'd,
73. Of Chenuts, 73. Of Oranges 52. Marmelade of them, 8o, 81
and Lemmons, ibid. Of Raber Conerves, 74. Pates, 86. Patils,
ries, 66. Of Strawberries, ibid. 1o3. Orange-flower-buds, 53. Tu-
Of Currans, ibid. beroa-flowers preerv'd, I 11. Vio
conerves of Flowersand Fruits, let-flowers and others, ibid. I 12
74,75, r fequ. Of Orange flow Spanih Broom flowers, 1 12.
ers, 74. Of Cherries, ibid. Of Fruits, in feafon every Month,
Currans, 75. Of Raberries, ibid. Io, II, 12, & equ. *

Of Smallage, ibid. White Con


ferve, 76. Of Violets, bid., Of G.
Roes, ibid. Of Jestamin, ibid. Ars oost-berries, what fort to be
Of Pomegranates, ibid. Of Bar chofen, 32. Green Gooe
berries, ibid. * - berriesliquid, 33. Jelly ofGooe
Crackling-cruff, 114, I 15. berries, ibid. Compotes, 65. .. "
Cream, or Rock - cream how . . . Grapes offeveral forts, 47. Bell-
made, 1 16. Boild Cream, 1 17. grapes preerv'd liquid, ibid. & ,^

Crip Almonds, ee Almonds. , 12o. ry, 47, 48. Pard, r2o. '
Currans, iced, 31, What fert fit of them, 48. Compotes, 72e }
for preerving, 32. Liquid, 34. ates, 86, 87, 12o, 121. Muca
In unches, ibid. Jelly of Cur dine-grapes liquid, 48. Dry, 49
fans, 34, 35. Compotes, 66. Mar Pate made of them, 87. -

/
melades,78. Conerves,75, Pastes, I
*

83 d
-

:
ties, of Fruits, 87. of green
* ::r.-
- / Gooeberries, 33. Ofred Cur
- - -;* [bb 2] raai,
* I -
t
A GeneralTable of the Sweet-meats, Comfts, &c.
rans, 34, 35. Quaking Jelly of of Plums, 79. of Pears, ibid.
Currans, 35. Curran-jelly with a Of Apples, ibid. Of Sevil-Oran
Tinure of Raberries, ibid. Af ges, ibid. & 8o. Of Lemmons;
ter the Manner of the City of 8o. Of Orange-flowers, ibid. &
Tours, ibid. Jelly of Bell-grapes, 8I. -* -

48. Of Cherries, 88. Of Rafber Mazarines, a fort of Tarts, 1 17.


ries, 39. Of Apples, &c. ibid. Of Meringues, a kind of Sugar
Quinces,9o. Other forts of Jellies, work, 1o2. In Pairs, ibid. Dry,
ibid. -
103. Pitachoe-meringues, ibid. ,
fellamine-conferve, 76. Models for Deferts, 126, 128,
Inconveniences, happening to 1 2 O.
Comfits, 122, 123, 124. ,
a Sugar-work of divers
Instruments, us'd in the Confe Colours, 1o9. 1
&ionary Art, 6, 7, 8, 9, 1o. Mulberries, preerv'd dry and
Ile-verte-plums, preerv'd, 37. liquid, 117, 118, 1 19.
Mufcadine-grapes, preerv'd li
L.
quid, 48. Dry, 49. Paste of them,
" Emmons, offeveralforts, 36, 8 |- -

:Le 57, r equ. Green Indian 'nstrirrr, preerv'd, 4 r.


Lemmons preferv'd, 56. White
Lemmons in Sticks, 127. In zests N. . 2 ( r.
or Chips, 58. In Slips, ibid. &
59. In Faggots, 6o. Entire, ibid.
N Eitarine, preerv'd; 44.
*. -

Compotes of Lemmons, 73, 74. - O. - |

Marmelades, 8o. Pates, 85.


Limes and Pomecitrons pre
O Orange plums,
. preerv'd,
37, 38.
41.
ferv'd, 61, 62. oranges preerv'd 52,53, requ.
Sevil-Oranges in Quarters and n
* M.
Sticks, 53; 54. Preferv'd whole, .
Acaroons, Io3, Io4. 54. China-Oranges Entire or in
March-paness.common, Quarters, ibid. 121, & 122. Port
7, 98. Other forts, 98, 99. Oranges, 54. Sour Oranges, ibid.
Royal March-pane, 99. Made of & 55. Oranges in Faggots, 53
Orange-flowers, Ioo. Of Lem In Zests or Chips, ibid. In Slips,
mon, ibid. Of Rafberries and o 56. Compotes of Oranges, 73, 74
ther Fruits,ibid. Iced, 1o1. Suff'd,
Marmelades, 79, 8o. Pates, 83.
ibid. & 1o2. Conerves of Orange ftowers, 74.
Marmelades, 76, 77. Oberva Marmelades,
Patils, Io5. 8o,
* 18, 1. Pastes, 86. - v * -

tions upon them, 81. Marrnelade


of Quinces according to the City
of Orleans, 51. Other forts, ibid. P, - - -

& 52. Marmelade of green Apri


cocks, 77. Of Cherries, ibid. &
P
Astes for Crackling crust, 1 14.
Puff paste, 1 17. Pastes of
78. Of Currans, ibid. Of Raf Fruits, 81, 82, & equ. Of green
berries, ibid. Of Aprieock, ibid. Apricocks,82. Of green Almonds,
- ibid.
A GeneralTable of the Sweet-meats, Comfits, &c.
ibid. of Cherries, ibid. Of Cur 42. Compotes, 72,73. Pastes, 85.
rans, 83. Of Rafberries, ibid. Of Jellies, 9o.
ripe Apricocks, ibid. Of Plum,
84 of Apples and Pears, ibid. R.
of roasted pples and Pears, ibid.Asberries, iced, 31. Pre
of Peaches, ibid. Of Quinces, 85. ferv'd dry, ibid. Liquid,
of Oranges, ibid. Of Orange 32. Other Ways ofordering them, -
flowers, 86. Of Lemmons, 85. Of ibid. What fort fit for pree
violets, 86. Of Bell-grapes, 86, ibid. Compotes ofthem, 66. rving
Con
,
87. of Mufcadine:grapes, 87. ferve 75. Marmelades,78. Pastes,
Pastils of feveralforts, 104. Of 83. s,Jellie s, 89.
Cinnamon, ibid. White, Ios. Of Roes, in cone 76.
-

rve,
orange-flowers, ibid. Of Apri
cocks, ibd. Of Violets, &c. ibid. S. - )
& Io. Of Cloves, 16, ** * * *
Lips, of Oranges, 56. Of Lem
Peaches, green preerv'd, 42, mons, rc. 58, 59, 6o.
43. Ripe, 43, 44. In half Sugar Smallage conferve, 75.
and in Ears,44. Compotes of them,
7t. Pastes, 84. Sugar, feveral Ways of boiling
- , -
it, 1, 2, 3, 4. The choice of it,
Pears, preerv'd dry and liquid, 4, How to clarifie it, 5, 6. Bar
40. Blanquets, 4. Large Muca ley-fugar, 122. Sugar-candy, how
dines, ibid. Orange-pears, ibid.
Certoes, &c. ibid. Musked Berga prepar'd, io7, 108,
mits, ibid. In quarters and other I IO. Sultanes, a fort of Sugar-work,
.
wife, ib. & 42. Compotes of them, Strawberries, their Nature and
68, 69. Marmelades, 79. Pastes, Virtue, 31, Iced, ibid. How or
84. derd, ibid. Compotes of them,
Perdrigon, a fort of Plum, 37. 66.
Pies, of Crack ling - crust, i 14, Spani Broom h flowers, preerv'd,
115. Of Puff paste, I 17, I I 2 -

Pistachoes in Sur-tout, 26.


Plums, of everal forts, 37. O T. .
range-plums, ibid. & 38. Amber Arts of everal forts, I 17.
plums, 38, 39; Red Plums, 39. Tuberoa flowers preferv'd,
Preferv'din half Sugar and other I i I- - -

wife, ibid. Pastes of them, 84.


Puffpaste, how made, 1 17. pr. -
Pyramids, of Cherries, rc. 1o9. Iolets , Conerves of them,
A Model of Fruit pyramids, 126, 76. Pates, 86. Patils,
128, 13o. . . . ro5, 196. Violet flowers, &c. Pre
Pomegranate-conferve, 76, ferv'd, 11 t, 1 12. -

Utenfils, neceary for Confe-


TUinces, the Nature of them, &tion ers, 6, 7, 8, 9, 1o. -

*
*
- 49. Preerv'd liquid, 5e,
121, Marmelades of Quinces, 5f, f/,
v -

K
- * *

TTTTTTFF, F , &c.
*
* -
A *- w. - - 2.

VV4: how made, 116. "7 Ests, orchips of Lemmons;


- Walnuts, the choice of 38. Of Seviloranges, 55.
them, 36. How preerv'd white, of yellw Citrons, &c. 3.
ibid. & 37. . . , , . '
white onerve, 76. White Pa- . ' -- --
, . '
stils, 105. . . . .. . ; |- **: : . , -

A Ta L E of the Water, : : Jaia, an


other Matters containdin the Instraffions for Li
quors. , , - 4 * - -

//Nie-feed-water, 9. - - Xiratiion of the Juices f


* f Apricock-water, 5. Rata: L. Fruits, 2o.
fax, 15. syrup, 19. .. . . . * **

B. . . . . . ' Lowers, icedwaters made of


Ell-grape-yrup, 2o. 'em, I, 2, 3, 4.
B , Brandy, the Quantity re-
quiite for Batafiaz, 13, 14, 15-
Fruits in feveral iced Waters,
4, 5, 6, 7,
Burgundy-wine, 12. - - -

Burnt Wine and Brandy, ibid. . H. *.

C.
L-Impera,
1 i 1, 12. of all forts,
White, Io,
11. Pale,
Herry-water, 4. Ratafiaz, ibid. Red, ibid. & 12. Made
13, 14, Syrup, 18. morepeedily,12. without wine,
Chocolate-water, 8. ibid. . . .
Cinnamon-water, 8, 9. Estence,
I 2 * . . . . . |- - |
. '
Clove-gillistiwers, fit for Syrup, Iced Waters of Flowers, I, 2,
17. ". 3. of Fruits, 4, 5, 6, 7 How
Clove water, Io. , : to ice all forts of Liquors, 4. .
coriander feed-water, 9. * . festamin-water, 3. . . s
Curran water, 5. Syrup, 19. - Honquil-water, 2. -

Huices of Fruits, zo. ,


D - fortD. f. Wine,. .12; Tuniper-water, 1o.
|

- k.
* - * , -
---------- - - - - - - - ,

A Table of the Waters, Syrups, juices, &c.


Red Hippocras, 11.
R.
Roade, 8.
K Ernel-water, 1o. Roes, proper for Syrup, 16,
17.
L. -
Roe-water, 3. N

Emmon-water, 6.
S.
Limonnade, 6, 7. " .
Liquors, for the Summer, 4, 5, Trawberry-water, 4, 5, 6. In
equ. For the Winter-eaon, D Ratafiaz, 14.
8, 9, Io, - Sugar turn'd to Syrup, 2o.
Syrups of Flowers, 15, 16. Ky
AM. -
fequ. . Of Clove-gilliflowers, 17.
Ulberries, for Syrup, 18, Its Virtue, ibid. Of Roes, ibid.
Mulberryjuice, 14. How long kept, ibid. Of Violets,
Mufcadel-Ratafiaz. I 5, 16, 17. Of Fruits, 18. & equ.
Mukroe-water, 3. Of Apricocks, 19. Of Bell-grapes,
Crc. 2o. Of Cherries, 18. Of Cur
rans, &c. 19. Of Mulberries, 18.
Rangeades: 6. Its efficacy, ibid., Of Quinces,
Orange : flower - water, 2. 19. Of Sugar, 2o.
Infus'd in Ratafaz, 14. T.
Orange-water, 6.
Orleans wine, 14. T Uberofa-flower-water, 3.
P. - V.
l Hippocras, 11.
Ale
Peach-water, 5. *
*
V" lets fit to make Syrup,
0

e.V 16. When gatherd, ibid.


: : * Violet-water, 1, 2.
42: . Virginal-water, 7.

Over". 19. R ! -
-
- VV Hite Hippocras, 11. Rata
|W.

Asberry-water, 5. .. fiaz, 14. Water, 7.


Ratafiaz, of all forts, 13, Wine of Burgundy, 12. Burnt,
14. r fequ. Of Apricocks, 15. ibid. OfOrleans, 14. Pale, 11,
Of Cherries, 13. With a Tinture 15. Red, ibid. White, ibid.
of Raberries, 14, Mucadel, 15,
White, 14. -
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T H E

Court and Country Cook:


D I R E C T I N G

How to Order all manner of E N T E R


T A IN M E N T s and the bet fort of the |
mot exquifite a-la-mode R A Goos.
/

The Entertainment which may be made in the Month of


January.
Uppoe a Table were to be furnihed for twelve Perons,
N one large Dih in the middle, four leffer Dihes, and four
Out-works may ferve for each Coure: For Example,
The First Courfe.
Potages and Side-dihes.
Two Potages, one middling Dih of a Bisk of Pigeons, and
the other of Capon with Roots.
Two other middling Dihes for Side-dihes; viz. one a Par
tridge-pye hot. . ' -

The other of a large fat Pullet and Truffles garnih'd with


Fricandoe's.
N

The great Dih in the middle.


This hall confift of two Pieces of roat Beef, garnih'd with
Cutlets of marinated Veal fried, with good Sauce.
- - **
-
* B - * For

|
2 The Court and Country Cook.
For the Out-works.
A Poupeton of Pigeons,
A Dih of Quails broil'd upon the Coals.
One of farced Pullets, with Cullies or strained Liquor of
Muhrooms.
One of Partridges, with Spanih Sauce.
The Second Courfe.
The Roast-meat.
This hall confit of two middling Dihes, viz.
One of a young Turkey garnih'd with Partridges, Chickens,
Wood-cocks and Mauviettes.
And the other of a Quarter of Lamb garnih'd after the fame
1Ilan IlCf,

For the Intermeffes.


A Cream-tart for the great Dih in the middle, garnihed
with Puffs, Feuillantins, Fleurons, and Milk-bignets or Fritters.
The two other maller Dihes, one of them of Pain au Jam
bon, garnih'd with mall Toats of Bread and Lemmon.
And the other of Gammon of Bacon and other Salt-meats.

- The Out-works.
One of thee hall confit of a Blanc-manger.
Another of the Livers of Capons.
The third of Aparagus in a Sallet.
And the fourth of Truffles in a Court-bouillon.

The Third Courfe. -

This is to confit of Fruits and Confits, of which we hall


fay nothing in this place; that being the particular Bufines of
another Officer and not of the Cook.
Such an Entertainment as this above-mentioned was made
I 5, 1691, by the Duke of Chartres for Mademoielle his
11tCT.

Intead of what was ferved up for Roat-meat, two Dihes


may be prepared ; viz. one confiting of two fat and large
young Hens, four Barn-door Pullets, and fix wild Pigeons:
The other of Water-fowl for Partridges, four Wood-cocks,
and a douzen of Snipes, The
The Court and Country Cook. 3
The Particulars hereafter pecified may ferve intead of the
rest for the Side-dihes and Intermees, as well as forthe follow
ing Entertainments: See Page 7.
According to this firt Entertainment you may eaily regulate
the Ordering and Dipoition of the ret, which you would have
made greater; by increafing the Number or Largenes of the
Dihs in proportion to the Number of the Guets and Tables.

An Entertainment for the Months of February and March.


The First Courfe. "
Side-dihes. -

Or the firt Coure, An hot Pye of young Rabbets and Par


tridges, in which may be put, during the time of ferving, 4
fome good Cullife of Partridge or other Ragoo's.
A Poupeton farced with twenty or thirty young Pigeons, ac
cording to the number of Guets entertained; with all forts of
Garnitures.
A Dih of Brufolles, broiled upon the Coals, with a Cullie
pour'd upon it. -

A Disti of farced Sweet breads of Veal, broiled upon the


Coals, with a Ragoo.
A Marinade of fryed Chickens.
A large fat Pullet roasted after the Englih Way, with a Ragoo
put thereupon in ferving it up.
A Dih of Filets cut in lices, with Gammon.
A Dih of Croquets.
One of Filets of a young fat Hen with Cucumbers.
One of farced Fricandoc's in a Ragoo.
The Second Courfe.
The Roast-meat.
Let there be three great Dihes of all forts of wild Fowl that
are in eaon, and four Sallets in the Corners; proportionably to
the Coures thatare ferved up, and the Guets that fit at Table.
For the Intermeffes.
Twelve Dihes; viz. One of Gammon, garnih'd with dryd
Tongues, and Bolonia-faufages. B 2. A
4 - The Court and Country Cook.
A Cream-pye garnih'd with little Tarts.
A Blanc-manger of Gellies of divers Colours.
A Dih of Aparagus in Cream.
One of Morilles in Cream.
One of Sweet-breads of Veal and Cocks-combs farced in a
Ragoo.
- of marinated Sweet-breads of Veal fryed. -

One of Capons-livers la Crpine,broil'dupon the Grid-iron.


One of the Kidneys of Capons.
One Pain au Jambon.
A Dih of Truffles in a Court-bouillon.
A Ragoo of the Sweet-breads of Veal, white Muhrooms and
Morilles. * |

Monieur Langlois caus'd uch a Supper as this to be made,


March 28, 16o, for the Duke of Orleans: There was for the
Duke himelf Potage de Sant prepared of afat Pullet with Eggs
in her, and of a Capon.
For this Entertainment they roasted fat and large Hens, Chic
kens and Partridges, that were ued only in making of the
farced Meats; particularly a Farce of Croquets: For this pur
poe, they took the Breafts and Legs of thee Fowls, and left
fome Filets for the Side-dihes. This fort of farc'd Meat
was made with parboil'd Bacon, Calves-udder boil'd, Sweet
breads of Veal parboil'd, Truffles and minc'd Muhroomis, fome
Marrow,Crums of Bread teeped in Milk, all forts of fine Herbs,
a little Cream-cheee, and fome Milk-cream: The whole be
ing well minced and eaoned, four or five Yolks of Eggs were
put therero, and the Whites of one or two : And this Farce
was made ue of for the Fricandoe's, Croquets, and Filets Mi
gnons. The are made round, of the bignes of an Egg;
they are to be breaded at the fame time, and left in a Dih,
to be fryed with Lard and ferved up hot.
The Carcaffes of Fowls may ferve to make different forts of
Cullies for the diverifying of the Ragoo's; Strainings may alo
be made of Bread, Partridge, young Hens, Pullets, Effence de
3ambon, Beef and Veal-gravy. The Ragoo's of Side-dihes
and Intermees are dres'd apart into different Stew-pans with
a Faggot of weet Herbs always put thereto.
Thoe that have Cream putto them, ought to be tos'd up with
good Butter, and a little Flower mut be put to each Ragoo ;
which being ready, the Cream is to be poured on them, and
- - - - 1R:

W
The Court and Country Cook. 5
in ferving up the fame they are thickned with ome Yolks of
Eggs.
u may hereafter oberve the Method of managing the ret
we have taken notice of, as well for Side-dihes as Intermees,
when we have run through the other Months of the Year, and
feen what is proper, to be ferved up every Seaon, as we have
already begun to do. -

An Entertaiment for the fame Month of March.


The First coure.
Potages.
A Potage
be
of Capons, with Cullies of Lambs-livers, may
ued.
One of Lambs-heads in green Peae-potage, garnih'd with
their Feet.
And a large fat Pullet in a Bk.
Great Side-dihes,
A great Piece of Beef.
A Breaftof Veal farced in a Ragoo.
A Fricaffy of Chickens, garnih'd witha Marinade of Chickens.
The fmal Side-dihes,
One of Catlets of Mutton broiled upon a Grid-iron,
And the otheroffmall Bouillans madeofthe Breasts of Capons.
The Second Courfe,
. For the Roast,
A Dih of a roated Capon, breaded and garnih'd with three
Pigeons and three Chickens, ----

A Leg of Mutton, breaded and garnih'd with the fame.


b A Loin of Veal garnih'd with a Marinade of Veal round =
Out.
A Dih of two roated Ducks with Sauce.
One of two Rabbets. -

And for the maller Dihes, fome large and fat Pullers breaded.
- B3 The
/

6 The Court and Country Cook.


-

The Intermeffes.
Shall be of a Ragoo of Artichokes. . .
A Dih of Truffle, and Capons-livers in a Ragoo.
A Cream-tart and a Blanc-manger.
A Dih of breaded Muhrooms baked.
One of new-laid Eggs, la Huguenotte.
One of Pain au jambon.
Apple-fritters. |-|

And two Plates of Salt-meat.


This was the Duke of Orleans's Dinner, March 26, 169o,
being Eater-day.

For Supper.
Potages. .
A Potage de Sant with a Capon.
A Biskof Capons, or of Pigeons.
And a Potage of a young Hen with Eggs in her, nothing
but good Gravy to be put into it.
The Side-distes.
S The Sweet-breads of Veal larded and roated, with good
au CC.
Two large fat Pullets roated with a Ragoo underneath.
And a Dih of tewed Pigeons.
The Roast. -

A Loin of Veal garnihed with three Pigeons and three


Chickens, one half larded and the other barded.
A Legof Mutton breaded and garnih'd after the fame manner.
A Dih of two larded Rabbets. -

And one of fix roated Pigeons.


This is the ordinary Supper of the Duke of Orleans, all the
difference is, that the Potages and Intermeffes vary according to
the Seafon of the Year. w

The Dutches's Table is uually ferved with a large Potage,


a great Dih of Roat-meat, a Dih of Intermees, and two mall
Dihes at each Service.
A
i

The Court and Country Cook. 7

A Lift of what may ferve, during the Months of January,


February and March, befides the forementioned Dihes.
Potages. /

A Potage of Larks according to the Englih Mode.


Potage of Quails with a Bouillon-brun.
A Potage of boned Capon with Cardons and Cheee.
Potage of a Sucking-pig.
Potage of a Chine of Pork with strained Peae.
Potage of Pheafants with a Pot-pourri, or Hotch-potch.
Potage of Cheee, or Jacobine.
Potage of a Leg of Veal farced.
Potage of a young fat Hen, with Milan-cabbage.
Potage of young Rabbets according to the Italian Mode.
Potage of Mauviettes with a Bouillon-brun.
Potage of a fat Gooe with Turneps.
Potage of Partridges with Muhrooms. -

Potage of Partridges, la Reine and la Royale, (as they call it.)


Potage of young Pigeons crammed. -

Potage of Turkey according to the German Mode.


Potage of farced Pullets.
Potage of Wood-pigeons with green Cole-worts.
Potage of Rice.
Potage of Teals with trained Turneps.
. Side-dihes.
Lamb in a Ragoo.
Larks in a Ragoo, according to the Englih Mode.
A hort Rib of Beef, after the Englih Manner.
Andouilles, or Chitterlings of Hoggs-guts.
Andouillets according to the Spanih Way.
Puddings.
A Sucking-pig au Blanc. -

Legs of Mutton prepared divers ways.


A Shoulder of Mutton in a Ragoo.
A Leg of Veal tewed.
A Turkey broiled and ferved up cold.
An Hah of Partridge-breafts.
A Leveret or young Hare, according to the Swis Mode.
A Partridge in a Ragoo,
B 4 - Young
8 The Court and Country Cook.
Young Pigeons according to the Italian Mode,
A Turkey in a Pot-pourri.
Pullets according to the Spanih Way.
A Pot-pourri of Green-geefe.
A Loin of Mutton according to the Swis Mode.
Sauages.
Beef with Vinegar and Pepper. .
They alo make ue of hot Pies of feveral forts, which may
be hereafter pecified, when we have done with that which be
longs to every Seaon, together, with cold Pies and Tarts,
which may ferve for Intermees; becaue they hold out almot
the whole Year.
There are alo feveral other forts of Intermeffes, of which
a general Supplement may be made; tho' there are very ma
ny in the Entertainments that are fet down for the enuing
Months.
As for Rost-meats, the following Fowls may be ued :
Larks, Wood-hens,
Wood-cocks, Rabbets,
Snipes, Leverets,
Bitterns, Fat Geee,
Mauviettes,

$
Ula "e. Plovers,
Turkies,
Fat Capons, Capons or Wood-pigeons,
Barn-door Capons, or Pullets, Young fat Hens, -

Partridges, Teals,
Wild Pigeons, Lapwings.
Pheaants,
Thee forts of Meats are alo in their Seafon for the Months
of October, November and December, and fome of the following
Months, may be added; which will be remarked hereafter in
due Place.

Enter
The Court and Country Cook. 9
~

Entertainments for the Month of April.


The First Courfe.
Potages.
TWo forts of
de Sant, Potages,
with viz.fatAHen.
a young Bisk of Pigeons, and a Potage
rotag

The Side-dihes.
A Quarter of Mutton farced.
A large fat Pullet in a Ragoo.
A Breaft of Veal farced. -

Pigeons with weet Bafilin their Bodies, together with a ma


Farce; and a large Piece of Beef in the middle.
The Second Courfe.
For the Roast.
A great Dih of Roast-meat, confiting of feveral Fowls, ac
cording to their Seafon, and two Sallets.
The Intermeffes.
A Dih of Pain au3ambon,
Boil'd Cream.
A Ragoo ofSweet-breads of Veal and Capons-livers.
A Dih of Aparagus with Sauce of Jus li, or thick Gravy.
And fo there may be feven Dihes for each Coure.
The Marques d'Arci, formerly the French King's Ambaa
dour at Turin, and fince Tutour to the Duke of Chartres, gave
fuch an Entertainment at his Houe on the 1oth Day of A
fil, 169o. -

Another

-
*
IO The Court and Country Cook.

Another Dinner for the fame time,


The First Coure.
Potages.
Two Potages, one of farced Pullets with Aparagus, and
the other Potage de Sant, with a young fat Hen garnihd
with Roots.

For the Side-dihes.


A Poupeton farced, with fix Pigeons in a Ragoo.
Pullets or Chickens with Gammon.
Calves-tongues farced and ragoo'd.
One or two young fat Hens in a Ragoo with Truffles.
A large Breat of Veal, garnihed with farced Cutlers of
Mutton.
The Second Courfe.
- The Roa.
A great Dih of Roat-meat, confifting of divers Fowls and
two Sallets.

The Intermeffes.
The Sweet-breads of Veal in a Ragoo with Muhrooms and
Truffles, befides good Cullies put into it.
Aparagus with Sauce of Jus li.
A Marrow-pye.
A Blanc-manger.
The Out-works.
A Dih of the Bottoms of Artichokes with Cream.
One of Salt-meat in Slices.

This Dinner was prepared at the Marques d'Arci's, as alo


that which follows, for the Duke de Chartres and Mademoielle
his Siter, April 18, 169o.

Another
The Court and Country Cook. I I

Another Dinner for the Month of April.


The First Courfe.
Potages.
Two Potages de Sant with two young fat Hens, garnihed
with Afparagus-tops. -

One of farc'd Pullets, garnih'd with farc'd Lettices.


A Bisk of Pigeons.
A Potage of Partridges, with Cullies la Reine.
The Side-dihes of the Table.
For the grand Side-dih, you are to have a Qaarter of Veal,
garnih'd with fried Bread and Cutlets of fried Veal, larded
with Hatlets, and a Salpicon put upon the Leg.
The others area Poupeton farc'd with fix young Pigeons.
A Miroton. - \
Sweet-breads of Veal, larded and farced in a Ragoo.
A Dih of Filets of large fat Hens with Oifters.
And a Rabbet-pye.
The Second Courfe.
For the Roast.
Two great Dihes of Roat-meat, and two little ones confit
ing of feveral Fowls, with two Sallets.
The Intermeffes.
A Dih of Gammon, garnih'd with Sauages and dryed
Tongues. -

A Tart of Almond-pate farced with Marmelade of Apri- -

cocks.
A Blanc-manger.
A Dih of Afparagus, with ordinary Sauce.
One of Morilles in Cream.
pr of Moufferons, or white Muhrooms in a Ragoo with the
T01. -

One of Capons-livers in a Ragoo.


The
*

12 The Court and . 5 Cook.

The great Entertainment for the Month of May.


The First Courfe.
Potages.
FQ Bks of Pigeons. -

Four Potages of farced Pullets, garnihed with farced Let


tices.
Three Potages of Geee with green Peae, garnih'd with
Afparagus-tops.
Three young Turkies with whiteSuccory.
Two Oils ferved up in Cuvets.
The Side-dihes of the Table.
Four great Side-dihes and twelve middling ones.
Two of two Rumps of Veal, deriviere, garnih'd with Cutlets
and larded with Hatlets; the Veal being half larded, and a
Salpicon pour'd upon the Leg.
Two Dihes of Roast-meat, one of Beef, the other of Murron,
garnih'd with fried Bread, and Marinade of Mutton-cutlets.
For the twelve leffer Dihes.
Two Pies of young Rabbets.
Two Pigeon-pies.
Two hot Pies of young Turkies.
Two Pieces of powder'd Beef, with a Hah of Gammori
thereupon. - * * ** * * -- - - - - - - .

Two farced Poupetons,


Two Mirotons.
The Out-works.
Thirty two Dihes in number, viz.
Two of Pigeons with weet Bafil.
, Two of Pullers with Gammon.
^ Two of roated Partridges with Spanih Sauce.
Two of Filets Mignons, with a Ragoo apart.
Two Filets of Beef with Cucumbers. -
Two Fricaffies of Chickens with Cream. *

Two of young Rabbets roated,cutinto two Parts,with Gam


mon-fauce.
Two of Mutton-filets in a Ragoo with Morilles,
Twa
The Court and Country Cook. 13
Two of farced Pullets in a Ragoo.
Two of farced Pullets broiled on the Coals with a Ragoo.
Two of farc'd Fricandoe's.
Two of Sweet-breads of Veal and farced Gammon.
Two of farced Lettices, la Dame Simonne.
Two of Sweet-breads of Veal larded on the Spit, and when
roated a good Ragoo put upon 'em.
Two # Fricandoe's without being farced.
Two of Pains au Veau.

The Second Courfe.


For the Roast.
Sixteen Dihes of Roat-meat, and as many Potages, confit
ing of all forts of Poultry, wild Fowl, young Boars, fucking
Pigs, &c.
Ten mall Sallets.
: /

| The Intermeffes,
Two great Gammon-pies. -

Two others of young fat Hens and Murton,


Ten leffer Dihes, viz.
Two of Blanc-manger.
Two of Salt-meats.
Two of Calves-ears farc'd.
Two of Galantine.
Two of Aparagus.
The Out-works.
Twenty two Out-works, which, with the ten Sallers, make
up the fame Number as in the firt Coure, viz.
Two of Mine-droit.
Two of Pigs-pertitoes, la Sainte Menehout.
Two of Hatlets broiled upon a Grid-iron and breaded.
Two of the Bottoms of Artichokes with Gammon-fauce.
Two of Pain au Gambon,
Two of farced Morilles and Moufferons in a Ragoo.
Two ofCocks combsfarced and ofCapons-liversina Ragoo.
Two Pies of the Breats of Capons. . --
Two of finall Peae in Cream.
Two of Riffoles, made of the Breasts of Capons.
Two of boil'd Cream,
W For
I4 . The Court and Country Cook. |
For a like Entertainment, Proviion mut be made the Even
ing before, and at Night three or four great Kettles are to be
hang'd over the Fire with tore of Meat therein, Faggots of
fine Herbs and whole Onions: You mut at the fame time boil
a great many Pullets and fat Hens, and roat ome Partridges;
which, with parboil'd Bacon and Fat, hall ferve for the farced
Meats that are to be made for the next Day's Entertainment;
and the Bouillons will ferve to make Beef and Veal-gravy,
Soops, Cullies, and Effence de Gambon.
As for the Potages, the Gravies and trained Liquors are to be
made apart,as alo for the Side-dihes and Intermees: You mut
moreover have good tore of Chibbols and chopped Parfly, and
feveral Bunches of fine Herbs to be put into the Ragoo's:
Great quantities of Cullies of Partridges, Pigeons and Pullers
are likewife to be made, all by themelves.
The Marques de Seignelaymade uch a fort of Entertainment
at Seaux for the Dauphin, the Duke and Dutchefs of Orleans, the
Duke of Chartres and Mademoielle his Siter, and the whole
Retinue of the Court, May 14, 169o. ]
The Kitchen-tackling ued there, confifted in fixty mall
Hand-Stew-pans, twenty round ones, as well great as mall,
twenty Kettles or Pots of all forts, thirty Spits; and, to prepare
this Entertainment, thirty fix Officers were employd ; as well,
Mater-Cooks as Affitants, &c.

Another Entertainment for the fame Month of May.


The First Courfe.
Potages.
TH Bisks of Pigeons. -

Three Potages of green Geee with Peae or Aparagus.


Three of farced Pullets with green Peae-foop.
Three Julians with young fat Hens.
The Julians, were garnih'd with Cucumbers; the Geefe,with
(lices of young treaked Bacon; the Peae-potage, with frced
Lettices and Aparagus-tops; and the Bisk, with Lemmon.
- - Side
The Court and Country Cook. I5

The Side-dihes of the Table.


Two Pigeon-pies. /
Two Side-dihes of Beef fomewhat corned.
Two of Filets of Beef with Cucumbers.
Two of the Fricaffies of Chickens with Cream.
Two of young fat Pullets broiled upon the Coals.
Two Mirotons.

The Out-works.
Two of Pies according to the Spanih Mode.
Two of Cutlets of Veal broiled upon the Grid-iron.
Two of young Rabbets, la Saingaraz.
Two of Pigeons with weet Bafil.
Two Grenadins of a large fat Pullet.
The Second Courfe.
For Roast-meat.
Two Dihes of young wild Boars.
Eight leffer Dihes, viz.
Two with four young Turkiesineach Dih.
Two of Chickens, garnih'd with young Pigeons.
Two of young Rabbets,
Two of Pheaants.
And eight mall Sallets.
The Intermeffes.
Two great Dihes of Gammon-pye.
Two dried Neats-tongues and Sauages.
Twelve leffer Dihes, viz.
Two of common Peae with Cream.
Two of Artichokes l'Estoufade.
Two of Muhrooms and Capons-livers.
Two of Pain au Jambon.
Two of Aparagus in Cream.
Two of the Sweet-breads of Veal and Cocks-combs,

The Out-works.
Eight in number, viz.
Two of Blanc-manger,
Two of Fritters.
Two
16 The Court and Country Cook.
Two of Calves-feet, la Sainte Menehout.
Two Pies of the Breats of Capons.
This Entertainment was made, May 18, 169o.

An Entertainment for the Month of June.


The First Courfe.
Potages.
A Potage of young wild Ducks or Chickens with Peae, gar
Cucumbers.
nihed with
A Bisk of Pigeons. - *

A Potage of p.
with a Duck.
A Potage of Cole-worts with a Partridge.
A Potage de Sant with a Capon.
A Potage of a Cafferole with Parmefan.
A Potage of young Stock-doves.
And another of Quails with Roots.
- The Side-dihes of the Table.
The Leg of a Fawn with the Rump to it, half larded and
half breaded, garnihed with mall Pies, and Sauce of Peppe.
and Vinegar.
A Piece of Beef omewhat corned and broil'd upon the Coals.
And for the great Side-dih, a Piece of roat Beef, garnihd
with a Marinade and Cutlets of fried Veal. -

Having taken off the Potages, thefollowing Dihes were ferv'd


up: -

The Out-works.
Sheeps-trotters farced, after the fame manner as the Croquets.
A Filet of a young fat Hen with Oifters.
Sheeps-rongues broiled, with a Ramolade for Sauce.
A Fricaffy of Chickens with a Pike.
A Turkey-powt farced with fine Herbs,
* The Second Courfe.
The Roast-meat
Conits of a great Dih of all forts of wild Fowl, with four
Sallets, The
The Court and Country Cook. 17

- " The Intermeffes.


An Almond-pye.
A Dih of Artichokes, la Saingaraz, garnih'd with fryed
Artichokes.
A Ragoo ofCapons-livers Muhrooms and Gammon.
Peaein Cream, garnih'd with Cheee-Ramequins.
The Out-works.
Four in number, viz.
One of Fritters made with Water. .
One of Riffoles.
One of Muhrooms in Cream.
One of Eggs with the Juice of Orangs.
Thee are the ordinary Coures ferv'd up at the French
King's Table; and here follows the Model of an ntertain
ment made at Court for Monfieur de Livri, Principal Steward
to his Majety, A. D. I 6o. -

Another Entertainment for the Month of June.


A Table furnihed for Twelve Perons.
The First coure.
Great Potage, and fix Side-dihes. The Potage is an Oil
* ferv'd up in a Cuvet of Silver gilt, or another in a large
Dih. , *: : : : : ,

For the Side-dihes.


-

A Leveret-pye, hot.
A Side-dih of Pigeons, with Fennel.
A Filet of a young fat Hen, with Cucumbers.
A Side-dih of Veal-weet-breads, la Dauphine.
One of Loins of Mutton, la Sainte Menehout.
One of farced Fricandoe's. * * - -

The Dihes garnih'd with fryd Bread, Croquets, Marinades


and Pain aux Perdrix. * -

C The
18 - The Court and Country Cook.
The Second Courfe.
The Roast. -

Four Dihes of all forts of Fowl roasted, according to the


Seaon; and a Piece of Roat-beef between others, garnihd
with Hatlets and two Sallets. -

The Intermeffes.
Stewed Artichokes, garnih'd with fried Artichokes; for the
great Dih.
An Almond-pye, garnih'd with Apple-fritters.
Peae in Cream, garnih'd with Cheee-Ramequins.
A Dih of Gammon.
And one of Riffoles.

Another Entertainment for the Month of June.


The First Courfe.
Potages.
Our in number, viz.
A Bisk of Pigeons. -

A Potage de Sant, with a large fat Pullet.


A Potage of farc'd Chickens, with green Peae-oop,
A Potage of Quails, after the manner of an Oil.
Side-dihes.
A great Side-dih, of a Loin of Veal, half larded and a Sal
picon thereupon; garnih'd with Cutlets of Marinated Veal.
Two middling Side-dihes, viz. -

One of a Rabbet-pye, and the other of farc'd Cabbage or


Cole-worts, garnih'd with farc'd Fricandoe's.
Twofmall Side-dihes, viz.
One a white Fricaffy of Chickens, garnih'd with Marinade,
And the other of young Rabbets la Saingaraz.
The Out-works.
A Dih of a young fat Pullet farced, in Cream.
One of Chickens la Polacre, with a Ramolade.
one
T. GT and Country G. 19
One of Pain de Perdrix.
And one of a Loin of Mutton a la Sainte Menehout.
After having taken off the four Potages, four other Out
works were fet on the Table, viz. -

One of Pain de Veau.


One of Pigeons with weet Bafil in their Bodies.
One of Hatlets.
And a Grenade. - -

There were alo two other Out-works, confiting of Stur


geons prepared, as for Fleh-days, two different ways, viz.
One after the manner of larded Fricandoe's.
And the other, la Sante Menehout in thick Slices.
The Second Courfe.
The Roat-meats and Intermees are of the Nature of the
Preceding.
Such a fort of Entertainment was made June 2o, 169o, in
the Preence of the Cardinal d' Estres and the Ambaadours, at
the Table of the Grand Chamberlain and Purveyorto the French
King. -

for the Potages ferved up in the Second Service, recoure


may be had to thoe that have been already fet down for the
three firt Months of the Year. Let us now oberve what
may be added, as well to the Side-dihes, as with repet to
the Roat-meats.

A List ofwhat may be ferved up, befides the ainmemima


Dihes, during the Months of April, May and June.
PQ:age of Lamb, with Roman Lettice.
Potage of Quails, with a natural Blanc-manger.
Potage of boned Capon, with Muhrooms.
Potage of Kids, with white Broth.
Potage of white Cabbage farced.
Potage of mall Citrulls, farc'd after the Spanih Mode.
Potage of Artichoke-bottoms, Cucumbers and Lettice.
Potage of young Turkies, with farced Morilles and white
Cabbage. -

Potage of young Rabbets, with mall Turneps.


C 2 Po-.
2O . - The Court and Country Cook.
Potage of green Geee, with Aparagus.
Potage of farced Bread with farced Lettice.
Potage of with brown Broth.
Potage of a farced Breat of Veal,
Potage of Chickens with farced Cucumbers.
Potage of Chickens in a Ragoo.
Potage of a Poupeton in form ofa Triangle.
Potage of Calves-feet and Chaldrons.
Potage of Lambs-heads.
Potage of Calves-heads deux Faces,
Potage after the Italian Mode.
- Side-dihes.
Andouilles of Veal.
A Quarter of Mutton roated.
Calve's-livers. v

A Calve's Chaldron fried. -

A Leg of Veallarded mall, in a Daube.


Collops of Veal broiled, with Parley-auce.
Young Rabbets, with white and brown Sauee,
A Loin of Veal in a Ragoo.
Green Geee in a Ragoo.
Young Geefe, in a Daube.
Calves-feet larded, with white Sauce.
Young Pigeons marinated, in a Fricaffy.
A Breat of Veal marinated.
Boned Chickens.
Stewd Chiekens.
Chickensin a Fricaffy, with Cream.
Young Turkies after the Swis Mode, fried with Cu
cumbers.
Little Chickens with Cherry-auce.
A Poupeton farced with young Pigeons.
A Cow's Udder, with weet Sauce.
For the Roast.
This is the Seaon for Lambs, Kids, fucking Piggs, youn
Turkies a Year old, Pheaants, jong k
s, green Geee, young wild Boars, Partridges, young Pigeons,
Chickens, and young Ring-doves, or Wood-pigeons. -

A
The Court and Country Cook. 2I

Agreat Entertainment forthe Months of July and Augut,

The First coure.


Potages.
Tw Bisks of Pigeons.
Two Julian-potages with large fat Pullets.
Two of Quails with weet Bafil.
Two of Peae with a Duck.
Two Potages of farced Cucumbers with a Capon.
Two of Qils, /

Two of Cafferoles.
Two of Roots, with young Ring-doves.
Two of Turneps, with farced Chickens.
Two of Leaks, with Geee.
Two of Succory, with young Turkies.
The Side-dihes.
Two Pigeon-pies.
Two Rabbet-pies.
Two Legs of Mutton, la Royale. -

Two Side-dihes of Partridge fried on the Coals.


Two of young fat Hens, la Saingaraz.
Two of large Pullets, farced in Cream.
Two Mirotons. -

Two Pains de Veau.


Two Terrines.
Two Side-dihes of Ducks, with Oiters.
great Side-dihes of Roat-beef, garnih'd with Mutton
CutletS, -

And two other of Veal de Riviere, garnist'd with Cutlets of


fried Veal and a Hah upon the Leg.
The Qut-works,
Two Dihes of Croquets.
Two of Sauciffes Franches.
Two of Sauciffon Royal.
Two of Veal after the Italian Mode.
Two of Pigeons with Fennel. -

Two of farced Chickens broil'd on the Coals.


| C 3 Two
22 The Court and Country Cook.
Two of Pigeons with weet Bail.
Two of Chickens la Tartre.
Twoof young Pullets la Sainte Menehout.
Two of Bouillans.
Two of Marinades of Chickens.
Two Coures of Pigeons, with white Sauce.
And two of Pain de Perdrix. -

The Second Coure.


Twenty two Dihes of Roat-meat, confiting of all forts of
large Pieces of Beef, Mutton and Veal, and of all forts of Poul
try, wild Fowl, young Boars, fucking Piggs, Pheaants, &c.
with Sallets, ------,
/(
The Intermeffes.
Twenty four in number, viz.
Two Dihes of Gammon-pies.
Two of Pheaants.
Two of Salt-meats, Tongues and Sauages. -

Two Pies of Capons-breats, garnih'd with little Tarts.


Two Pies made of crackling Cruft filled with Marmelade of
Apricocks.
Two Blanc-mangers garnih'd with feveral Gellies.
Two Dihes of Veal-weet-breads la Dauphine, garnih'd
with fried Sweet-breads of the fame.
Two of Blanc-manger-fritters, garnih'd with Water-fritters.
Two of Pigs-pertitoes, la Sainte-Menehout.
Two of Menus-droits.
Two of Hatlets.
And two of Galantine.
The Out-works.
Two Dihes of Pain au Gambon.
Two of Muhrooms in Cream.
Two of Cocks-combs and Morilles.
Two of Artichoke-bottoms.
Two Omelets, and a Gammon-hah thereupon.
Two Omelets with Sugar.
Two of Apple-fritters,
Two of burnt Cream. *

Two of Riffoles.
Two
The Court and Country Cook. 23
Two of -

And two of Truffles in a Court-bouillon.


An Entertainment of the like Nature was made by the Mar
ques de Louvois, Aug 25, 169o, in his Castle at Meudon, for
the Dauphin, the Duke and Dutches of Orleans, the Duke of
Chartres and his Siter, and the whole Retinue of the Court.
There were three Tables furnihed with the fame Proviions;
o that almot three Dihes of every Mes were reiterated.

Another Entertainment that may be made during the fame


Seafon, and in the following Months.
TH great Services of Pieces of Beef garnih'd with Mari
made, either in a Cuvet or in a large Dih, -

Twelve other Dihes, viz.


Three of fat Pullets and young Turkies.
Three of Carbonado'd Mutton.
Three of Pies after the Spanih Mode.
Two of farced Lettice.
And one of Pigeons with Fennel.
The Out-works.
Four in number, viz. -

Two of Veal-weet-breads with white Sauce.


And two Filets with Cucumbers, -

On another Day.
For the twelve Dihes, *

Three of fat Chickens and young fat Pullets.


Three of Sauages and Partridges.
Three of Chicken-fricaies, -

S.
" three of Pies of Pheaants, Partridges and young Rab
*

The Out-works.
Three Dihes of white Puddings, Sauages and Andouilles ;
and three others of Carbinadoes. - - * * *

Q4 Fr
24 . The Court and Country Cook.
For Talles of le Strength.
A great Dih of a Piece of Beef.
Two leffer of Pieces of Beef likewife, but diverfified, after
fome of the manners elewhere decribed.
A Pigeon-pye.
And a Fricaffy of Chickens.
For the Out-works.
A Filet, with Cucumbers.
A Dih of Carbonadoe's.
A Filet with white Sauce. -

A Dih of young Turkies, in a Salmigund or Hotch-porch.


At another time.
For the Grand Dih, a Piece of Beef.
Two leffer Dihes, viz.
One of Filets with Cucumbers, garnih'd with Carbonadoe's;
and the other of fat Pullets entire, with Truffles. - ** *

For the Out-works.


Four Dihes of Saufages, Puddings and Andouillets.
A Fillet of Mutton, with Truffles. * ,

And a Fricaffy of Chickens with Pies.


For Suppers.
Three
Hatlets. great Dihes of Veal, garnih'd with Marinade and
- :

Twelve other Dihes, viz.


Three of Pullets and young Turkies.
Two of Pigeons, with Fennel.
One of a Leg of Mutton, with Garlick.
Two of young Turkies, with Gammon.
One of Pigeons, with weet Bail.
And three Hahes of Partridges,
The Out-works. *

Four in number, viz, v -

Two of Filets with Cucumbers, and rwo Marinades of


Chickens. " - - - - -
The Court and Country Cook. 25

For another Table of le Strength. -

A Quarter of Veal garnih'd with Marinade for the great


Dih. ' -

Two other leffer Dihes, viz.


One of a young fat Hen with Gammon, and the other of
a Leg of Mutton. -

The Out-works.
A Dih of young Turkies, in a Salmigund, or Hotch-potch,
One of Sweet-breads en rond.
One of a Hah of Partridges,
And a Filet with white Sauce,
Another Table.
Three Quarters of Veal garnih'd with Marinade, for the
great Side-dihes.
Twelve other Dihes, viz.
Three offat Pullets, and young Turkies.
Three of Filets of a hort Rib of Beef in the Gravy.
Three of young Turkies, with Gammon-fauce.
And three of Salpicons.
The Out-works.
Two Dihes offried Sweet-breads of Veal, and two of large
fat Pullets, with white Sauce.
Another Table,
Two Side-dihes, viz. -

One of Calves-tongues, and the other of young Hens, with


Gammon.
The Out-works.
A Dih of Filets, with Cucumbers.
One of a Fricaffy of Chickens.
Another of a Filet in the Gravy.
And of one Marinade of Chickens. .

The Order of all thee firt Coures is uually oberv'd, during


theame Seaon, in the Court of France, for the King's Tablc,
and thoe of the Princes and the Comptroller of his Majesty's
Houhold. * . - .
A U
26 , The Court and Country Cook.

A List of what may be ferved up befides the alvementioma


Meffes during the Months of July, Augut and Sep
tember.

Potages.
Otage of farced Quails.
of Capons with Muhrooms.
of Capon with Prunes de Brignoles.
of Turkey-powts, with Cucumbers.
of a Shoulder of Mutton with Turneps.
of young Pheaants with Truffles.
of Wood-hens with white Succory.
of a Leg of Veal farced and larded.
of Collops of Veal larded and broil'd.
of Thruhes, with brown Broth.
of a Knuckle of Veal l'Epigramme.
of Melons with little Chickens.
of green Geee with Turneps.
of the Gibblets of young Geee.
of Partridges, in a Capitolade.
*
of young Partridges, with trained Broth.
- of farced Chickens, with green Peae-foop.
of large Pullets, with Cabbage.
of a boned Turkey.
of Ring-doves, with Muhrooms.
of Veal-weet-breads.
And Potage de Sant, with a Knuckle of Veal and Capon.
, Side-dihes.
Beef la mode. -

A fucking Pig after the German Way.


A Civet of a Hare.
A Leg of Mutton after the Swis Mode.
A Shoulder of Mutton, with Muhrooms,
Thruhes in a Ragoo. -

A Breat of Mutton parboil'd, and afterwards fried.


Freh Neats-tongues larded.
Calves-tongues, with weet Sauce.
Young Rabbetsin a Cafferole,
A Loin of Veal hahed.
Green Geee quartered, * : A
TT C. Country Cook. 27

A Fricaffy of young Pigeons. *

Young Pigeons with and Vinegar.


A Breat of Veal ragoo'd.
A Turkey ina Pot-pourri, or fort of Hotch-potch.
A boned Turkey.
A Filler of Veal in a Ragoo.
A Loin of Mutton fried.
A Calve's Head fried.
A Calve's Udder, with weet Sauce.
Roast-meats. -

Beccafigo's, young Quails, young Capons or fat Pullets, fuc


ing and # Thruhes, Leverets,
wild Bores, Mauviettes, young Houe-pigeons and Pul
etsof one Year.
Thee forts of Meats are alo proper for the enfuing Months;
aslikewife many of thoe that have been fet down for the Firt
and Second Seaon, may be ued at another time; if they are
to be procured: Therefore we ought only to have regard to
Convenience in this matter, and if that will allow it, to ad
here in every thing to the articulars of which the above-pe
cified Entertainments are compos'd, rather than to thoe con
tained in the Lifts; which are more common Ragoo's, and les
conformable to the new Mode. -

=-n

An Entertainment that may be made in the Months of


Ostober, November and December.
The First Courfe. \

Potages and Side-dihes. -

A Great Dih, fourmiddling ones and four Out-works, viz.


A Bkof Pigeons. -

A Potageof Ducks, with a Cullife of Nantilles.


Three Side-dihes, viz.
One of a young fat Hen, la Saingaraz, garnih'd with
Marinade.
One of a Rabbet-pye. And
nq
- a

28 The Court and Country Cook.


And a hort Rib of Beef, with the Filet, garnih'd with Fri
candoe's.

The four final Dihes, or Out-works are, t|

One of Partridges, with Sauce, after the Spanih Way.


One of Filets and Roated.
A Fricaffy garnih'd with a Carbonadoe. . , !
And a Dih of farced Mauviettes with Mutard.

The Second Courfe.


The Roast-meats and Intermeffes.
Two middling Dihes of feveral forts of Poultry and Wild
Fowl, according to the Seafon.
A great Pye of crackling Cruft garnih'd with little Tarts :
, and Fritters.
A Dih of Blanc-manger.
And a Gammon-pye.
The four Out-works are,
A Dih of Cardoons, with Parmefan.
One of Truffles in a Court-bouillon.
One of Veal-weet-breads and farced Cocks-combs,
One of Hatlets and four Sallets.

A Supper was ferved up in this manner at the Duke of


Chartres's Palace, December the 1t, 169o.

Another great Entertainment for the Month of Decem


ber. - . .

* The First Courfe.


- Potages.
Tw Bisks of Pigeons.
* Two Cafferoles, with Parmefan.
Two Potages
Two of Ducks,of with Chickens, with green
farcedTurneps. r
Peae-foop.
. . . -

Two
The Court and C775 TE 29

Two of large fat Pullets, with Succory.


Two offarced Quails, with Truffles.
Two of Cercelots, or young Teals with weet Bafil.
And two of Partridges, with Gullies la Reyne.
The Side-dihes.
Three great Dihes, viz.
A large Loin of Veal, garnih'd with Marinade and larded
with Hatlets.
A Piece of Beef, with the Filet garnih'd with Cutlets.
A Piece of Roat-beefand another of Mutton, garnih'd with
farced Cutlets.
Ten middling Dihes, viz. .
Two of Slices of Beef roll'd and farc'd.
Two of farced Water-fowl, with Oifters.
Two of Pheaants minc'd in a Pye.
Two offat Pullers, with Truffles.
And two of young Hens, with Cray-fih Cullies.
The Out-works.
Two Dihes of Grenadins, with large fat Pullets.
Two of Veal, la Bourgeoife.
Two of Partridges, after the Spanih Mode.
Two of Pheaants, with Carp-auce.
Two of Marinated Chickens.
Two of roated Wood-cocks, with Wine.
Two of Quails broil'd on the Coals. ,
Two Biberots of Partridges.
Two Mirotons of Veal, with Aparagus.
Two Dihes of Filets of young fat Hens, with white Sauce.
Two of Filets of Beef, with Cucumbers. -

Two of Pigeons with weet Bafil. -

Two of Partridges, with Olives.


Two of Sauciffon Royal, , ,
The sama Coure.
- For the Roast-meat. -

Sixteen Dihes of all forts of Wild Fowl and other Poultry,


particularly Ortolans; Pheaants, &c. with young wild Boars,
and twelve finall Sallets, r h
The
a

3o The Court and Country Cook.


The Intermeffes.
The three great Dihesare to confift of three Gammon-pies.
The middling Dihes are ten in number, viz.
Two of Blanc-manger.
Two Pies made of Capons-breats.
Two of Cakes farc'd with Marmalade.
Two Pies of crackling Cruft, garnih'd with Marmalade.
And two Omelets, with Gammon.
The Out-works.
Two Dihes of Apple-fritters.
Two of Blanc-manger-fritters.
Two of Riffoles.
Two of Muhrooms in Cream.
Two of Pain au Jambon.
Two of burnt Cream.
Two of Truffles in a Court-bouillon. *

Two of Artichoke-bottoms.
Two of fried Artichokes. *

Two of iced Artichokes.


Two of Aparagus in a Sallee -

Two of Menus-droits. *

And two of Galantine. *

A Feat of the like Nature was prepared at the Duke of


Aumont's Palace, December 27, 169o. Table wasfix'd with
Hore-hooes; and forafmuch as there were forty two cover:
or Services, it was requiite to reiterate three Dihes of feveral
Particulars; as well for the Side-dihes, as for thoe of the
Roat-meats and Intermees.
If thee Models are not fufficient for a due Variery of Enter
tainments on different Days; or if they do not fuit with the
Convenience of Perons and Places; a more proper Choice
maybe made out of the following List. - :
The Court and Country Cook. 3;
*

A Lis# of what may be ferved up, befides the abovemention


ed Dihes, during the Months of Otober, November
and December. -

Potages of Larks, with Hypocras.


| of Andouilles, with Peae.
- of Lambs-heads.
of Ducks, with Cole-worts or Sprouts.
of Quails with Muhrooms.
- of farced Muhrooms.
of Capons, with Colly-flowers. i

of Capons, withCardoonsin white Broth,


of boned Capon, with Oifters,
of a farced Leg of Mutton, with Turneps.
of a farced Leg of Veal with white Sauce.
of a Leg of a Stag, or of a wild Boar.
of a fat Goofe, with trained Peae
of Partridges, with Milan-cabbage.
s- of farced Partridges.
of large Pullets farced and boned. e 1

of young Barn-door Chickens in a Bkwith Truffles.


of Poupetons.
of Teals, with Muhrooms.
of Teals, with Hypocras.
of Vermecelli, after the Italian Mode,
And Potage de Sant.
Side-dihes.
Puddings of Calves-livers.
A Capitolade of Partridges and Capon.
A Duck in a Ragoo.
A farced Duck, with weet Sauce.
A fat Capon in a Daube.
A Daube of Veal, minc'd and larded.
Calves-livers in a Marinade.
Calves-livers larded and roated.
Hoggs-liversina Ragoo.
A Gallimafry of a Shoulder of Mutton,
A Haricot of a Breat of Mutton,
ANeat's Tongue larded, -

*
, Sheeps
32 The Court and Country Cook.
Sheeps-tongues broil'd,
A Marinade of Partridges.
A Partridge in a Daube.
A Piece of Beef well larded.
Sheeps-trotters, with white Sauce:
A Loin of Mutton la Croutade.
A Fillet of Veal, with Oifters.
A Calve's Head in Mine-droit.

For the Roast-meats, fee Page 15. becaue the fame Pro
vifions may alo ferve in this Seafon; as it has been already -
hinted. The Appurtenances of the Intermeffes are much more
general, as being in ue throughout the greatet part of the
whole Year: Therefore it may not be improper here to makea
Colletion of the different Mees, prepared for that purpoe
in the above-pecified Entertainments for every Seaon; adding
fome others that may be ubtituted in their room, when Oc
cafion ferves, and accordingly as particular Exigencies may
require.
-

Ageneral Table of the Intermeffes.


Lmond-milk,
Apple-fritters.
Artichokes, with white Sauce,
Artichokes fried.
Artichokes iced.
Artichokes, la Saingaraz.
Artichokes, with natural Butter. , , , '
Artichokes, l'Estoufade. , .
Artichoke-bottoms put in Pate and fried. - -

Artichoke-bottoms, with Gammon-fauce,


Aparagus in Mutton-gravy. ; f.
Aparagus with natural Butter. -
Aparagus in Cream. -

Aparagus in a Sallet. - |

Beans in Cream with Bacon.

Beatils in a Ragoo.
Bignets, fee Fritters.
Blanc-mangers of feveral forts.
Calves
The Court and Country Cook. 33

Calves-kidneys, and others roated.


Calves-ears farced.
Cardoons, with Parmean.
Cheee-cakes.
Cocks-combsfarced, and Capons-livers in a Ragoo.
Cocks-kidneysin a Ragoo.
Colly-flowers, with natural Butter and Mutton-gravy.
Creams of feveral forts.
Cucumbers.
Echaudes or Simnels Iced.
Eggs and Omelets after feveral manners.
Fritters of Blanc-manger.
Fritters of Apples.
Fritters made with Water.
Galantines. -

Gammon of Bacon in Slices andin aHah.


Gruels. .
Gammon-pies.
Heads of wild Boars.
Hatlets.
Hogs-ears la Barbe-Robert.
Hogs-ears fried in Pate.
Hogs-tongues.
Jellies of feveral forts.
Kidneys of Cocks in a Ragoo,
Kidneys of Calves roated.
Livers of Capons a la Crepine:
Livers of Capons roated.
Livers of Capons with Muhrooms.
Livers of Capons after othermanners,
Livers of Rabbets in an Omelet.
Menus-droits.
fra or white Muhrooms and Morilles, farc'd and
Tld. -

Muhrooms in Cream.
Muhrooms fried.
Muhrooms in a Ragoo.
Muhrooms in a Cafferole,
6. Neats-tongues dryed.
Omelets.
Pain au Hambh,
D Peae,
34 The Court and Country Cook.
Peae, with Bacon and Cream.
Pigs-pettitoes, la Sainte Menehout, and broil'd upon the
Grid-iron.
Pyes of Pheaants, young fat Hens and feveral other forts,
ferved up cold. . '

Poupelins.
Rabbets-livers in an Omelet.
Riffoles of Capons-breats.
Salt-meats.
Simnels iced.
Tarts of everal forts.
Trouts and other Fihes, on Fih-days.
Truffles in a Court-bouillon.
Truffles broil'd on the Coals.
Truffles in Mutton-gravy. -

Veal-weet-breads farc'd, la Dauphine.


Veal-weet-breads and Cocks-combs farc'd.
Venion-paties. /

Water-Bignets or Fritters.
Not to tire the Reader with too many Tables or Lifts of the
like Nature, relating to Paties, Pies and Tarts as well hot as
cold, as alo to the different forts proper for ome Things ex
preed in the the preceding Table; he is referr'd to the general
Index or Table of the Meffes at the end of this Volume, where
they are fet down at large ; or elfe to every Letter in the Al
phabetical Intructions that treat of every Thing in particular;
after having pecify'd what relates to the Fih-days.

Entertainments on Fih-days throughout the whole rear.


IT were needles perhaps here to give a particular Account :
- of the Services; becaue it is an eafie thing to take meaures
thereupon, from the Entertainments on Fleh-days that have
been already decribd. However, that nothing may feem to
be wanting, we hall repreent fome Models; after having ob
ferv'd what may be ued, as well for the Potages and Side
dihes as for the Intermees; the fried Fih that are in Seaon,
fupplying the place of Roat-meats, Let us then begin with
the Potages. -

The
The Court and Country Cook. 35

The First Courfe.


Potages on Fih-days, for the Months of January, Febru
ary and March. -

Potages of Pike, with Turneps.


of farced Pike.
of Cardoons. /

of Milan-cabbage. - -

of Cray-fih.
of Sturgeon. :
- of Smelts, with brown Broth.
of Oiters.
of Julians.
of the oft Roes of Fih. .
of Lobters with Peae.
- of Sea-ducks.
- of Onions with weet Bafil and otherwife,
- of Parmefan.
of Profitrolle.
of freh Salmon. N
- of farced Soles. - -

of Soles in Filets with white Sauce, with weet Bail,


with Lentils, and with Cucumbers.
of Soles, with Onions, in white Sauce.
of Turbot.
of farced Tench.
of Tortoie.

To thee may be added Potages with Roots and Pule, here


after mentioned; more epecially the oil for Fih-days, and
alo certain Fih-potages thatare fet downfor theenuing Months.

D 2 Potages
(

36 The Court and T ; Cook. ----

* on Fih-days for the Months of April, May and


UI1C.

Potages of Afparagus.
- of Muhrooms.
of white Cabbage, with Milk.
offarced Cucumbers.
of Rasberries.
of Froggs.
of Gudgeons.
of Lampreys.
- of farced Lettice.
of fried Mackerel
- of Morilles. --;:
of young green Peae.
And Potage de Sant with Herbs, which is common for the
following Months.

Poteges on Fih-days for the Months of July, Augut and


September.
Potages of Eels, r /

of Eel-powts, with brown Broth,


of farced Pike. -

of farced Carps.
of white i e
of Citrulls, with Milk.
- of Frogs, with brown Broth.
of Milk, with Pitachos.
of Melons.
of Mucles.
of Mufcadine-grapes.
of Perches with white Broth.
of Fih in a Bisk,
of Green Peae.
- of Salmon with Muhrooms. /
The Court and Country Cook. 37

Potages on Fih-days, for the Months of October, No


vember and December.
Poeges of Fih-Andouillets.
of Sandlings.
of Pike, with Cabbage.
of Cardoons.
of farced Muhrooms.
of Smelts with white Broth.
of a pickled Joll of Salmon.
of Marbled-Milk. *

of Eggs, with Parmean.


of Perches with brown Broth,
of young Pigeons.
There are alo for all thee Seafons, Potages of Rice, of
: Vermicelli, of Almond-milk and others.

**
|
Side-dihes of Fih for the whole Tear.
mar in a Ragoo.
Bafes.
Bouillans of Fih.
Breams in a Ragoo and roated.
Burts.
Carps in a Ragoo and la Daube. * - . ::
Carps in Filets ftewed, with Sauffe-Robert,
Carps farced in a Ragoo.
in a Demi-court-bouillon, -
Cafferoles of Fih.
Cervelats of Fih, \
Cod-fih freh and otherwife.
Congers cut into Pieces and fried, with Anchovies,
Congers Marinated.
Cray-fih in a Ragoo, with white Sauce.
, Dabs,
Daubes of Eels, *

Eels roated,
D 3 Eels
38 The Court and Country Cook.
Eels broiled on the Grid-iron, with Sauffe-Robert.
Eels, with white Sauce.
Eels fried.
Eels, with brown Sauce.
Filets of Carps, Soles, Perches, &c.
Flais in a Cafferole and fried.
Flounders and Crabs,
Fricasties of Pikes, Quavivers and Soles.
Frogs fried.
Gold-fih in a Fricaffy, in Pies, &c.
Gudgeons rolled in Pate and stewed.
Hahes of Carps, Cray-fih, Perches and Pikes.
Haricots of Fih. *

Herrings, freh and otherwife. S

Kneelings. '.

Lampreys. -

Lobters in a Ragoo, Hah, &c. s.

Mackerel. . .
Melwells. - :)

Mirotons of Fih.
Mullets fried, with Anchove-auce and broil'd upon the Grid
11'On.

Oiters broiled, ragoo'd, fried or farced.


Pains of Fih.
Perches, with Anchove-fauce.
Perches farced. : :

Perches, with white or green Sauce, or with Cucumbers,


St. Peter's Fih, with Truffles, with whiteSauce, with Artichokes, a
with Cucumbers, or with green Sauce. :
Petits Patez or little Pies with whiteSauce. - ---

Plaice in a Ragoo.
Pies of Fih, ferved up hot.
Pike with Pigeons-breafts. *

Pike farced.
Pike in a Cafferole. -

Pike in a Fricaffy. |
Pike farced, with Anchove-fauce. -

Pike fried in Pate. -

Pike cut in Pieces and put into a Ragoo.


Poupetons of Fih. - i

Pilchards.
Quavivers, or Sea-dragons in Filets, with Cucumbers, Ca
pers, or Moufferons, Qua
The Court and Country Cook. 39
Quavivers, with Anchove-cullies.
Quaviversboned and tewed . * -

aviversina Fricasty of Chickenswith white Sauce.


Quavivers fried in a Ragoo. *

Raiesor Thorn-backsfried, with Sauffe-Robert.


Rochesin a Cafferole.
Roches broiledupon the Grid-iron and breaded.
Roches farced or in a Pie. . *

Sandlings or Dabs and Eel-powts in a Ragoo, in Cafferoles,


Orin Filets. 4

Sandlings with Cream, or Anchovies.


Salmon in a Ragoo, with Muhrooms.
Sardins.
Sauages of Fih.
Sea-ducks in a Pot-pourri.
Shads.
Shrimps fried.
Smelts with Anchovies and in a Cafferole,
Soles broiled upon the Grid-iron, with Anchovies.
Soles marinated, farced, in a Ragoo, with white Sauce, or .
with fine Herbs.
Soles in Filets, with Lentils, with fweer Bail, Cucumbers,
Sauffe-Robert, or Truffles, after the Spanih Mode, with Cray-fih
and with Capers, or Anchovie-cullies.
Soles la Sainte Menehout.
Solesin a Fricaffy of Chickens, or with burnt Butter.
Soles in Pigeons.
Soles with Laurel or Bay-leaves,
Stock-fih of feveral forts. - - .

Tenches farced, in a Ragoo, in a Fricaffy, or in a Cafferole.


Tortoies in a Ragoo, or in a Marinade.
, Trouts in a Ragoo,
Tunnies marinated, broiled, put into a Pie or baked in a Pot.
Tunnies cut into Slices, with poor Man's Sauce.
Turbot with Oil, or with Anchovie fauce.
Turbot in a Ragoo.
Whitings in a Cafferole,
To thee forts of Fih may be added Dihes of Spinage, far
ed Cabbage, Peae, and other Herbs or Pulfe, according to
the Seafon.
- D 4 The
4O The Court and Country Cook. |
The Second Courfe.
The abovementioned Fihes may be ferved up in a Court
bouillon, and fried, or broiled upon the Grid-iron, or Roated:
Among others, thee that follow, viz.
Shads roated, and in a Court-bouillon.
Sandlings, in a Court-bouillon.
Pike after the fame manner; or elfe larded with Eels and
roafted. -

Carps in a court-louillon, broiled on the Grid-iron, or -


fried.
Sturgeon dres'd after the fame manner,
Smelts fried.
Mackerel broiled.
Plaice fried.
Salmon, in a Court-bouillon.
Soles in a Court-bouillon.
Soles fried and broiled.
Tenches after the fame manner.
Turbot in a Court-bouillon.
Quavivers broiled upon the Grid-ron, with Anchovie-fauce.
There are alo feveral Pies and Patry-works of Fih, which
are to be fet down elewhere; and to thefe may be added di
vers Particulars belonging to the Interneffes on Fleh-days, fuch
as Muhrooms, Artichokes, Aparagus, Morilles, Cucumbers, &c.
Moreover out of Lent, the ue of Eggs is coniderable, with
which a very great number of Dihes may be varied; and even
during that Seafon, a good Choice may be made out of thoe
that belong to the Entertainments with Roots, which hall be
hereafter decribed. - -

We hall only here ubjoyn the Fih-fallets that likewife con


ftitute a part of this Service.
The Court and Country Cook. 4I

A List of the Fih-fallets.


SAllers of Sole-filets.
of freh Turbot.
of freh Sandlings.
of freh Oifters.
of Filets of Smelts.
of Salmon-trout.
of Ray or Thorn-back.
of Whiting-filets. -

of Quaviver-filets,
- of freh Tunnies.
of Anchovies and Pilchards.
of freh Salmon.
of Cray-fih.
of Lobters and others.

A particular Account of the Root-allets is to be hereafter


inferted, and as for thoe of Herbs during the Summer, no
thing is more eafie than the manner of making them ; for then
there is fo great an Abundance of all forts of Garden-fruits, that
they may be readily changed every Day, and feveral different
forts may be ued at the fame time.
For feveral Filets of Fih 'ris requiite to prepare a certain
Sauce call'd Ramolade, which is made of chopped Parley,Chib
bols, Anchovies and Capers; the whole mixture being put into
a Dih, with a little Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Oil and Vinegar
well temperd together. After having dres'd the Filets in a
roper Dih, they are to be prinkled with this Ramolade, and
emmon-juice is uually added to fome of the Dihes; which
are to be ferved up cold.
If any Perons are defirous to have Models of Entertainments
on Fih-days, they may here take a View of a very remarkable
Ordinary as it is prepard in the Duke of Chartres's Palace.
Whenever it hall be requiite to furnih greater Tables, due
meaures may be taken for the management of them, from the
Entertainments that have been pecify'd for Fleh-days; and
if more lender Proviions are only required, 'twill be les diffi
cult to retrench the number of the Dihes, than to find means
to match them and fet them in good Order.
- - - - - - Mo
42 The Court and Country Cook.

Models of Entertainments on Fih-days.


For a confiderable Ordinary or Dinner.
Potages.
Tw middling Potages and four leer.
The two middlingones confitof Cray-fih and farced Soles.
The four leffer are thefe, viz.
The firt Potage de Sant, the fecond with Cabbage, the
third with Peae, and the fourth with Onions.
The great Dih in the middle.
An Eel-pie.
Two Side-dibes, viz.
One of whole Perches, with white Sauce.
And the other of four Pikes.

The Out-works,
A Dih of Fricaffied Oifters.
One of Spinage.
One of Soles in Filets with Cucumbers.
One of Filets of Perches, with white Sauce.
One of Quaviver-Filets, with Capers.
One a mall Fricaffy of Pike.
the last of Eels broiled upon the Grid-iron, with Sauffe
Robert.
\ The Roast.
Two middling Dihes, each confiting of two Pikes and eight
Soles.
The great Dih of a Carp and fix Pickerils round about it.
The ret of this Service conists of Particular Intermees and
Filets in a Sallet.

For the Supper.


- Potages.
Two middling Potages ; viz. one of Tortoies and the other
of farced Pike. -"

Two leffer; one of Sole-Filets with weet Bafil and the o


ther of Soles, with Lentils, The
The Court and Country Cook. 43

The Side-dihes of the Table.


For the great Dih in the middle, farced Mullets.
Four Side-dihes, viz. -

A Pike-pye.
A Dih of Gold-fih.
One of tewed Carps.
One of Baes.

Eight Out-works, viz.


A Hah of Carps.
One of Perches.
Tortoies.
Soles farced.
Sole-Filets, with Sauffe-Robert.
Others with Truffles, and others with Cray-fih,
For the Roast.
,CII).Two middling Dihes of Sturgeon and Roches round about
Two leffer, each of five Soles.
Several Intermeffes for the ret of the Service.

The Second Table.


A great Dih in the middle, of Soles, with Anchovies.
Four Side-dihes, viz. , -

A Pie.
A Fricaffy of Pike.
Two Dihes of Gold-fih.
And two of Roat, , ,

An Ordinary for another Day.


Potages.
Two middling Potages and four leffer.
The two middling, are one of Perches with white Sauce,
and the other of Lobters. -

The four leffer are a Potage de Sant, one of Onions with


fweet Bafil, one of Profitrolles and one of oft Roes,
- - ' . - The
44 The Court and Country Cook.
The Side-dihes,
A great Dih of Roches.
Two middling ones, viz. the first of farced Perches and the
other of whole Carps.
Eight Out-works, viz.
A Poupeton of Tunnies,
Filets of Perches, with green Sauce.
Farced Oiters.
A Haricot.
Filets of Soles, with Truffles.
Bouillans. ' ,-

Soles broiled on the Grid-iron, with Anchovies.


And a Pie with white Sauce.

For the Roast.


Two middling Dihes; each offix Pikes and four Soles. . .
i llt.
* others leer, of two Sandlings and four Soles round a
The ret of the Service confits of divers Intermeffes and
Filets in a Sallet.

For the Supper.


Two middling Potages, viz. one of an Oil and the other
of Mucles. *

Two leffer; one of Sea-ducks with Lentils, and the other of


Soles with Cucumbers.

- Side-dihes, -

A great Dih of Thorn-back. N

f Four others, viz. one of Roches, one of Quavivers in a


Fricaffy of Chickens, one a Pie, and one of Grenois.
The Out-works.
Soles la Sainte Menehout.
Filets of Perches, with white Sauce.
Filets of Dabs, with Anchovies.
A Hah.
Tenches. -

A farced Cabbage.
Quavivers, with Moufferons.
A Cafferole. - Far
| The Court and Country Cook. 45
For the Roast.
: Two middling Dihes; each of even Soles.
Two leffer, one of a Carp and the other of a Pike.

An Ordinary for another Day.


- Potages.
Tw middling Potages; one of farced Grenots and the other
of Pike, with Oifters.
Four leffer ones, viz. the firt of Spinage, the econd of Len
tils, the third of farced Soles upon the Edges, and the fourth of
Onions, with a Loafin the middle.
The Side-dihes.
; . A Pike-pye, for the great Dih.
Two others; the firt of broiled Tunnies and the econd of
Sandlings.
The Out-works.
A Miroton. -

Sole-Pains.
Filets of Carps, with Cucumbers.
Filets of Soles, with Cullies of Capers.
Quavivers broil'd upon the Grid-iron.
Roches farced.

For the Roast.


Two middling Dihes; each of twelve Soles and two lester;
each of two Sandlings,

The Supper.
Potages.
Two middling Potages, viz. one a Julian, and the other of
Sole filets. - -

Two leer; one with Parmean, and the other of farced


Crab-fih.
The
/
|

46 The Court and Country Cook.


The Side-dihes.
The great Dih of Whitings in a Cafferole.
Four middling Side-difbes, viz.
One of Mackerel.
One of freh Cod-fih.
One of a Poupeton of Tortoies.
And one of Roches breaded and broil'd upon the Grid-iron,
Eight Out-works, viz.
A farced Loaf. -

A Gatoe of Soles.
Quavivers, with Cucumbers and Moufferons.
Soles after the Spanih Way.
Lobters in a Hafh. -

St. Peter's Fih, with white Sauce.


The Roast.
large Dih of a Turbot and a Dab, garnih'd with Ro
CileS.
Two middling Dihes, viz. one of Shads and the other of
freh Salmon.

Thee Models are more than ufficient for the regulating of


a confiderable Ordinary. As for others that are les umptu- :
ous it were requifite only to provide as many Out-works, as
there are Potages ; to the end that the former may be erved
up, when the others are taken away. In like manner the ret
of the Mees may be proportioned for the fecond Coure,
every one accordingly as the Expences will admit of. Let us
now take an Account of the Proviions of Roots.

Entera
The Court and Country Cook. 47

Entertainments with Roots.


The First Courfe.
- - Potages.
Sin number, four middle ones and two leffer, viz.
A Potage of young Onions, with a Loaf in the middle.
One of Lentils with Oil, garnih'd with fried Bread.
One of Aparagus, with green Peae-foop.
And a Potage without Butter.
The two leffer Potages are, one of Almond-milk, garnihd
with crip Almonds and the other of Morilles.
. An Oil or Potage of Roots may alo be ferved up and Sallets
with Oil.

The Side-dihes.
A Dih of Lentils in a Ragoo, with fine Herbs.
Oneof Peae-foop, with fine Herbs.
One of French Beans.
One of Roots in a Ragoo.
One of Potatoes. -

One of other different forts of Herbs.


And four Dihes of Oifters.

The Second Coure.


For the Roast.
Take feveral forts of Roots, as Parnips, Carrets, Turneps,
Potatoes, Goats-bread, Parley-roots, &c. Let them be weli
crap'd and calded: As foon as they are ready, take a Stew
pan, with a ufficient quantity of good Butter and Onions fhred
mall. When the Butter turns omewhat reddih, throw in a
handful of fine Flower, as alo the Roots; which are to be
fried and well feafoned. Afterwards the whole Mes is to be
chopped upon a Table to make a Farce, mixt with a little Par
ley and Chibbol, all forts of fine Herbs, fome Pieces of Truffles
and Muhrooms, a Slice of Butter, a few Crums of Bread and
Milk-cream. Thus this Farce is to be made delicious, not
100 fat and eaoned according to Art. wi h
1t
48 The Court and Country Cook.
With the fame Farce, all forts of Fih may be repreented
upon Plates, at Pleaure, viz. Soles upon one, a Turbot upon
another, Flounders a third ; upon others, Roches, Qua
vivers, Mackerel, Sc. . A little Butter mut be put into every
Plate under the Farce that is thus formed in the Shape of Fih. :
Afterwards they are to be neatly breaded on the top and baked
in an Oven. As for the Soles in particular, they may be made
upon a Leaf of Patience or Monks-rhubarb, which very much
reembles their Shape, and fried with a great deal of eae.
Carrets may likewife be taken, and more epecially red Beets
which being well crap'd and boil'd according to Dicretion,
each Root a-part, are to be cur into large Slices; fome in th
Shape of Soles, others like Quavivers, and fo of the rest:
Then they are to be left in a Pickle, for a little while, till,
with fine Flower, Salt and white Wine a proper Batter be made,
like that of Apple-fritters, to cover the Roots, before they ar
fried with freh Butter and Oil; every thing a-part. Thus
they are to be fried as other Marinades; as well as Goats-bread
and other Roots, of which one or two Dihes may be prepared
for the Roat. *

To diverifie them, 'tis requifite to haye eparate Ragoo's


of feveral forts; viz. fome of minced Muhrooms, others of
Truffles, others of Aparagus-tops and others of Morilles: As
alo a good Sauffe-Robert a-part and white Sauce, without any
Anchovies therein ; which may ferve chiefly for the Dihes that
repreent the hape of Fih and are made of a Farce. They are
to be garnih'd with a little fried Bread, fried Parley, pickled
Roots fried in Pate, rtichoke-bottoms fried in Pate, and
fome Pieces of Cucumbers.

For the Intermeffes.


A Dih of Aparagus in Cream,
A Tart of Almond-milk and Cream.
A Dih of burnt Cream.
One of Morilles in Cream.
One of Aparagus in a Sallet.
One of Jelly of Harts-horn.
' A Blanc-manger.
Muhrooms breaded and baked,
Cabbage in a Sallet.
Spinage in Cream.
French
The Court and C75 Cook. 49

French Beans in the Cod preerv'd dry ; ome ferved up in


a Saller and others in Cream.
Pickled Artichokes, with white Sauce.
Dried Truffles, with Oil. . '

Apple-fritters. - *,

This last Entertainment was prepared as a Dinner for the


Duke of Orleans, on Good-friday, Anno Dom. 169o. -

To that purpoe, a fufficient quantity of Roots was provided


the Day before, and three or four Tables were fill'd with them.
They were pick'd, crap'd and calded according to the uual
manner, as well for the Ragoo's and Side-dihes, as for the
Roat; o that in the Morning, every thing was ready for the
* Farces.
A confiderable quantity of Peas was likewife boil'd in the
Evening, which,
and to foak ferv'dand
the Herbs to make a great
Roots for deal of Onion-broth
the Oil. W

Altho' there needs no great variety of Meffes on uch Days,


yet it will not be improper here to hew, how the preceding
Particulars may be diverified or augmented; becaue they may
ferve upon other occaions during the whole Seaon of Lent,
- / For the Potages.
They may be made
Young Sprouts. with, - - N

Ciboulets with Milk. -

Moufferons and common Muhrooms,


Green Peas. |

Truffles.
Turneps. -

And Artichoke-bottoms,

- For the Side-dihes and Intermeffes.


Befides the ordinary Creams,Fritters,Blanc-mangers and Roots
dipt in Butter and fried, which have been already decrib'd,
feveral Pies and Tarts may be made of fome; particularly of
Spinage, Truffles, Morilles, Moufferons,common Muhrooms,Plums,
red Beets, &c. To thee may be added Eggs and Omelets, dif
after divers manners; and for thoe that are eaten with
utter, feveral forts of Roots may be dres'd with white or red
Sauce: Thus a very great Entertainment may be eaily pre;
B , Par'd
5o The Court and Country Cook.
par'd upon any emergent occafion, and fuch Materials as are
at hand, may be managed fo as to give fatisfation, as far as
the Abtinence of the Seafon will admit.
It remains only, that the particular Sallets be pecified ; be
caue a greater quantity of them than ordinary, is requifite on
that Day.
A Lift of the Sallets.
Artichokes, Lettice,
Aparagus, Muhrooms ftewed,
Red Beets, - Olives,
Cardoons, Oranges,
Celery, Parley of Macedonia,
Colly-flowers, Pomegranates,
Cucumbers fried, , Potatoes, , .
E/creffionaire, Purflain,
French Beans, Young Sprouts,
Goats-bread, Wild Succory,
Hops, Truffles.
Lemmons, |

Let us now proceed to the main Point of the Buines, and


to the pratical Part of this Work : Indeed the general Ideas
that have been already given may be ufficient for Stewards,
Purveyors and Caterers, who are thereby plainly intruted as
to the particular Proviions to be bought, and in the Method
of Ordering the Entertainments committed to their Charge.
But ome farther Diretions are neceary for thoe that are
Students in the Art of Cookery : Tis requiite to explain to
them the Manner of Preparing every Mes, to the end that
they may go on uccesfully in their Buines without any dif
ficulty; and this is what we undertake to do in the enfuing
Treatife; without concealing any thing that is mot -la-mode,
or mot in ufe at the Court of France, and in the Houes of
Perons of the greatet Quality: Such are the Entertainments
- that we have already produced for Models,

- I N
57

INSTRUCTIONS
I N

Form of a D I C T 1 o N A RY,
D I R E C T I N G

How to Dres every particular Mes,


and how to Serve them up to Table, for the
Side-dihes, Intermeffes and Roat-meats, or
otherwife, after the bet manner.

A.

, A L M o N D s.
Lmonds ferve for feveral Ues; particularly, to make
Pate, Potages, Almond-milk and Pies; and green
Almonds are fometimes boil'd: All thee Things are
* prepared according to the following Method.
Almond-paste.
Take Almonds that are well caldcd and wah'd in fair
Water: Pound and moiten them with a little White of an
Egg and Orange-flowers, whipt together ; , and, as you are
working them, continue to moiten them by degrees, that
they may not turn to Oil; they cannot be pounded too much : .
The Pate thus prepar'd, is to be pread upon a large Dih, and
dried with fine Sugar, as if it were ordinary Pate, till it be
comes very pliable. This Paste may ferve to make the Bot
tom or Under-cruft for Pies, and all forts of finall Patry
works to garnih them; but 'tis
- 2.
de to let it lye 3
| 11ttle
52 The Cour Country Cook.
little while, before you proceed to make ue of it according to
your Deign.
The fame may alo be done after another manner, thus:
When the Almonds are ufficiently pounded and moiten'd as
before, take a Copper-Pan, uch as Confectioners ue, and put
into it a greater quantity of Sugar than of Pate ; which Sugar
is to be clarified with the White of an Egg, and boil'd till it
becomes feathered: Then put in your Pate, and with a Spa
tula work all well together. Set your Pan over the Furnace,
and keep continually tirring it as much as is poible, until the :
Pate be looen'd from the Pan. , Afterwards it mut be pread
upon a Dih, with fine Sugar underneath, and rolled up in large
Rolls, that it may lye by for fome time, before it be us'd.
may be workt feveral ways, that is to ay, fqueez'd thro'
a Syringe; and formd into divers Figures. As for the Shreds :
or Remnants that are left, when dried, you need only put
them into the Mortar, and pound them with a little Whire of
an Egg, in order to foften them, and this will ferve to make
fmall Petits Choux or other fine Ornaments for the garnihing
of the Dihes.
Almond-milk.
Almond-milk is us'd for the Intermeffes, and made thus:
Take Almonds, and having calded them in order to Blanch
ing, pound them in a Mortar, as before : Then take a little
Milk, and be careful to strain all thro a Sieve; which being
done, take four Yolks of Eggs with the Whites, beaten toge
ther, and pour ome Milk upon them, by degrees; adding alo
a little Salt and Nutmeg. In order to boil it, fer a Kettle or
Pot with Water upon the Furnace, and when it boils, put a
Dih upon the Kettle, with a lice of very good Butter. Af
terwards pour your Almond-milk into this Dih, and let it be .
continually tirr'd , till it becomes a Cream, which mut be
ferved up to Table hot without any Sugar. *

Potage of Almond-milk.
Take a Pound or two of Almonds, according to the fize of
your Dih; and ler them be calded, and pounded all at once;
moitening them with a little Water: When they are well pound
cd, fet a Stew-pan on the Fire, with fome luke-warm W
- a Il
The Court and G Cook. 53

and a very little Salt : Pour this Water into the Mortar, and
ftrain all through a Sieve two or three feveral times. Then put
this Milk into a clean Pot, with a lump of Sugar and a little
piece of Cinnamon, and boil all together by degrees. To
dres the Potage, eut the crummy part of a Loaf into Slices, and
and put them in good order upon a Dih: When thee Slices
are toafted at the Fire, lay Potage of the fame Milk a
foaking, and when 'tis ready to be ferv'd up, moiten your
Sippets with it, as much as is requiite.
Some boil about two Quarts of Water in a Pot, and pur
into it the Crum of two mall Loaves, which they mingle toge
ther with the Almonds in a Mortar, and afterwards let it foak
in a Pot, for the pace of three or four Hours, with Sugar and
Cinnamon, as before: Then they train and dres it in the fame
Irlannef. - > - |

This Potage may be garnih'd with March-pane or crip Al


monds; the latter of which may be made after this manner, if
you'll take the pains to do it. Take Almonds that are well
fcalded and drain'd: Then Sugar them, and put them all ar
once into a Frying-pan that you have ready at hand, with good
hot Oil: They mut be continually tirred and turned, till
they become of a Gold-colour: Then take them out peedily,
and make four or five Heaps of them; becaue they are apt to
fticktogether, - .*

An Almond-Tourte or Pan-pie. .. v

Take about two good Handfuls of weet Almonds, and, as


you are pounding them, fprinkle them with Orange-flower Wa
ter: Add thereto fome candy'd Lemmon-peel, fome Peel of
green Lemmon and Sugar, and pound them all well together,
with a very little fine Flower : Let the Whites of two Eggs b. -

beaten up and pour'd therein, with three Yolks, and when the
, whole Farce is well mixt, let it be put into a little Dih. In the
mean while,a fort of Pate is to be made with Flower,Butter,the
Yolk of an Egg and a little Salt; but great care muft be taken
that this Pate be duly prepared.Thena piece for the Under-cruft
is to be rolled out and put into the Pie-pan, with a little Bor
der round about it, made with the point of a Knife. When
'tis time to have the Pie bak'd, the prepared Farce is to be pur.
into it, fo as to fill up the whole Bottom-crut. Afterwards
it mut be iced with a little fine Sugar, and fet into a Cainpain
E 3 Oven ;
54 The Court and Country Cook.
Oven; taking care of the Fire on the top, and continually fup
plying that underneath.
How to dref green Almonds.
When you have green Almonds, fet a large Copper-Pan or
Skillet upon the Fire, filled with Water and Ahes: Scum off
the that rife on the top, and when this Liquor has boil'd
a great while, and you perceive by the Tate, that 'tis become
fweer and flippery, as it were a perfet Lye, throw in your Al
monds and them have three or four Walms : Then take
them out and put them into other freh Water: Thus they are
to be wah'd in four or five Waters,and afterwards a Pan is to be i
fet on the Fire,with Water almot ready to boil.Put the Almonds
into that Water,and to prevent their wimming on the top,thrut
down into the Pan a Dih ofalmot the fame breadth,yet o as to
be conveniently let into it ; by which means the Almonds will
be hinder'd from becoming black. A good Fire mut be con
tinually kept underneath, and in cafe the Water inclines to boil,
fome other cold Water is to be pour'd in by degrees to give it a
check. Thus your Almonds are to be dres'd with a moderate
Heat; and to know whether they are ufficiently calded, take
a Pin and prick an Almond quite thro: If it tick to the Pin,
'tis a fign they are not yet well calded; but if it be loofe, it
denotes that they are. Then, having taken them out, put them
again into fair Water, and afterwards into good Syrup of clari
fied Sugar. In order to ferve them up liquid, 'tis requiite that
one half of your Sugar be in a Jelly; and to keep them dry, as
foon as your Almonds are calded in the aforefaid manner, take
, them out and let them be well drain'd: Boil your Sugar till it
be greatly feathered, and fee that it be not thick, but of a fine
to the end that the Almonds which are put therein, may
appear very green. The fame thing may be done with green
Apricocks to preerve them liquid and dry.
A N c H o v 1 E s.
. Anchovie-cullies are frequently made, and put into feveral
Ragoo's, as well for Fleh as Fih-days, o that it were need
les here to give a particular account of them; fince that is uf
ficiently done in the repetive places where they are to be us'd.
We hall only oberve at preent, that the Bones of the Ancho
-- - *: < ' vies,
The Court and Country Cook. 55
vis which have been already made ue of, may be fried, af
ter having put them into a Pate made of Flower and white
Wine, with a little Pepper and Salt: So that you may either
garnih another Dih with that Paste, or ferve it up to Table
for an Out-work, with Orange and fried Parley.
A N D o U 1 L L E s. . .

Andouilles or Chitterlings, are ued for Side-dihes more than


for Intermees ; thoe of Hogs-guts are made after the follow
ing manner.

Andouilles de Cochon, or Hogs-chitterlings.


Take the great Gut of a Hog, and cut off the thick end of it,
to be steep'd in Water for a Day or two : When that is done,
let it be well wah'd and parboil'd in other Water, with a little
Salt and fome Slices of Onions and Lemmons. Slit this Gu
and put a little white Wine upon it, to take away the ill Sa
vour. When it is parboil'd, put it into freh Water, and ha
ving brought it to the Dreffer, cut it according to the length
you have your Andouilles or Chitterlings to be of. Take
ome part of the Hogs Belly, pare off the Fat and cut that
Meat into thick Slices of the fame bignes with your Chitter,
lings: Thus you may make them, with half of one and half
of the other ; eafoning them as much as is needful. After
wards take the Skirts from the infide of which the mall Gut
Ought to be cut off, let them be well cleanfed and fcrap'd like
wife for ome time, to take away the ill tate. Then cut them
of the fame length with your Chitterlings, and having tied up
the ends of every one, put them neatly into the Skirts fo as they
may be coverd and bound up therein. . When your Chitter
lings are made, put them into a Kettle of Water with Slices of
Onion, an Onion tuck with Cloves, two Bay-leaves and a
little Leaf-fat out of the Hog's Belly : Ict them be gently
boil'd and well cumm'd, pouring in, after the Scum is taken off,
a Glas or two of white Wine : Let them cool in the fame Li
quor, and afterwards take them out, but be careful to avoid
breaking them. They are uually broil'd upon a Grid-iron with
Paper under them and ferved up to Table all at once.
A Potage of Andouilles may likewife be ferv'd up with strain
d Peae and good Broth, and to thatend, each is to be made
E 4 apart 5
56 - The Court and Country Cook.
apart; that of the Chitterlings with a Faggot of Herbs and a
Piece of green Lemmon : But you are to put into the Peae
foop, ome fine Herbs chopt mall and tos'd up in a Pan with
Lard. The Chitterlings are cut into round Slices, to be laid
upon your foaked Crufts, with white Pepper, Murton-gravy
and Lemmon-juice, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table, and
are garnih'd with fried Bread and Slices of Lemmon.
Andouilles de Veau, or Calves-chitterlings. -

After having well wah'd and prepar'd the larger Calves


guts, cut them according to the length you would have your
Chitterlings to be of, and tye up one of the ends: Then take a
fufficient quantity of Bacon, Calves-udder, and Calves-chal
dron, all parboil'd, and cut them into mall pieces in form of a
Die: Put them into a Stew-pan and eaon them with Spice
beaten mall, and a Bay-leaf. There mut be alo fome Pep
per and Salt, with a few minc'd Shalots, and you may add
about a Gallon of good Milk-cream. Set the whole Mixture
over the Furnace, and afterwards draw back the Pan; into
which you are to put four or five Yolks of Eggs, and a few
Cruns of Bread: Thus all being well thicken'd, proceed to
make your Chitterlings hot, with a Funnel, and tye up their
ends. Afterwards let them be parboil'd in Water and drefs'd
in the fame manner as the Hogs-chitterlings: They are like
wife to be boil'd and left to their Liquor; then let them
be broil'd upon a Grid-iron,with Paper,and ferved up to Table.
Thee forts of Chitterlings may be made in Summer, wheri
Pork is out of Seafon; as alo in thoe Countries, where no
Hogs are kill'd throughout the whole Year, as it happens at
Paris. - - -

A N D o u 1 L L E r s.
Veal-Andeuillets are made of minc'd Veal, Bacon, fine Herbs
and the Yolks of Eggs, with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and beaten
Cinnamon, fo as to give them a fine colour; and in erving
them up, ome beaten Yolks of are to be added, with
Verjuice and Lemmon-juice. Thee Andouillets are to be roast-
ed on a Spit between Slices of Bacon, and bated with their
Dripping, with the Yolks of Eggs and Crums of Bread, fome
times one and fometimes another, to produce a fine Cruft upon
them :
T. Court and Country Cook. - 57

them: When they are ready to be ferv'd up, add ome Mut
ton-gravy, or of another fort, with the Juice ofa Lemmon and
fried Parley to garnih them.
Andouillets are likewife made of Fih, with the Fleh of Eels
and Carps min'd or pounded in a Mortar, and eaon'd accord
ing to the uual manner: With 9f this Fleh,a Cervelas isto
bemade in a Linnen-cloth, andboil'd with white wine, Bu
and a Faggor of fine Herbs; and Andouillets are made with e
idt, which are likewife to be boil'd in Butter, with Broth and
handful offine Herbs. Then tos up ome Muhrooms in a Pan,
with Carp-roes and a little fine Flower, and after having caus'd
them to boil a littlewhile, with fome Fih-broth and green Le
mon; pur them to your Andouillets. Thus they may be ferd
up for Side-dihes, or ele in Potage; drefing them on your
|aked Cruts, garnih'd with Cervelas in Slices and with #
Slices and Juice of Lemmon.
A R T I C H o k E s.
There are feveral Ways of dreing Artichokes to be erv'd
up for Intermees, and amongt others thee are the chief, viz.
Artichokes with white Sauce.
Let fome mall Artichokes be boil'd in Water, with a little
When they are ufficiently boil'd, put the Botoms
a Pan, with Parley feaon'd with Salt and white Pepper, and
a Sauce for them, with the Yolks of Eggs, and a little
inegar and fome Broth. -

Artichokes drefd with natural Butter.


When your Artichokes are boil'd, as before, take off the
Chokes, and make Sauce for them, with natural Butter, Vine
gar, Salt and Nutmeg.
Fried Artichokes,
Take away the Chokes, cut them into Slices and let them
three of four Walms: ie em te fteep'd in Vinegar,
With Pepper, Salt and Chibbols. Then, having flowerd them
min Lard or refined Butter, and erve them up to Tabi
With fried Parley. - - - Arti
58 The Court and Country Cook. *

Artichoke-bottoms fried in Paste.


The Artichokes being boil'd and freed from their Chokes,
make a Pate, with Flower, Water, Pepper and Salt, and
ut them into it in order to be well fried: Let them alo be
erv'd up, with fried Parley and a little Roe-Vinegar. |

other Ways of Dreffing them.


Artichokes in Cream are likewie prepar'd after the fame
manner as Aparagus; others la Saingaraz and with Gam-
mon-fauce, on Fleh-days ; for which fee Gammon-effence un
der the Letter G. and young Rabbets la Saingaraz under R.
And lastly, others l'Estoufade orftewd and iced. Artichokes are
of very great Ue throughout the whole Year, for almot all
forts of Ragoo's Porages and Side-dihes; fo that 'ris requifite
to provide good tore of them, oberving the following Di
retions.

The manner of preerving Artichokes.


Take fo much Water, according to the quantity of your
Artichokes, as will be fufficient to cover them, and let them
boil, with Salt proportionably; then take them off from the
Fire, and ler them lye_by, to the end that the Dros of the,
Salt may fink to the Bottom. Afterwards pour the Liquor,
into the Por, wherein you would have your Artichokes put ;
which ought to be well turn'd and only fcalded, to take off
the Chokes and Scum. . They are to be wah'd in two or three
Waters, and afterwards put into a prepared Brine or Pickle ; )
pouring Oil or good Butter thereon, to hinder the Air from :
penetrating them; you may, alo if you pleae, add a little Vi
negar. They mut be carefully cover'd with Paper and a
Board over it, that the leat Air may not be let in. Thus they
may be kept for a whole Year, but before they are us'd, the
Salt mut be taken away, by foaking them in freh Water.
Artichokes may alo be preerv'd dry ; and to that purpoe,
when they are Scalded, and the Chokes raken off as before,
you are to pread them upon Grates or Hurdles of wattled
Oziers, in order to drain them; then are to be dryd in
the Sun, or in an Oven moderately heated; till they become
- - - * p * 3S
A
The Court and Country Cook. 59

as dry as Wood. Before they are us'd, they are to be fteept in


Luke-warm Water during two Days; by which means they II
return to the fame Condition as when they were freh, and
will relih much better than when prepared the other man
ner. They are to be calded in Water, with a little Verjuice
Salt and new Butter, on Fih-days, and with good Beef-fat on
Fleh-days. - - -

A s P A R A G U s.

Afparagus is eaten feveral Ways, and Potages are made


ofit, with different forts of Fowl, or with green Peae-foop ;
of which divers Examples have been already produced. 'Tis
alo uually ferv'd up in Intermees, Out-works and other
Dihes; fometimes in a Sallet, fometimes in white or thick Gra
and fometimes in Cream.

"-
r - -
Aparagus in Cream.
Let your Aaragus be cut into mall Pieces, and calded a
little in boiling Water: Then let them be tos'd up in a Stew
n with freh Butter, or with Lard, if you have no very good
utter; taking care that the whole Mes be not too fat : Then
put into it fome Milk and Cream, and feafon it well : adding
alo a Faggot of fine Herbs. Before this Dih is ferv'd up to
Table, it would be requifite to beat up one or two Yolks of
Eggs, with Milk-cream, in order to thicken your Aparagus.
The fame thing may be done in drefing Artichoke-bottoms
and green Peae, but for the latter fome Sugar is to be ued,
with a little chopt Parley, and then they may be order'd in
the fame manner. * -

Aparagus may alo be ferv'd up among green Peae, with


a green Cullis of Peae-cods or omewhat elfe:_Then put a
Crut of Bread in the middle, and garnih your Dih round a
bout, with Pain de Jambon. . - - - -

Affaragus in Gravy.
Dres your Aparagus cur into Pieces, with Lard, Parley,
Chervil chopt finall and a Ciboulet : Seaon them with Salt and
Nutmeg, and let them foak in a Pot over a gentle Fire : Then
take away the Fat, pur therein fome Mutton-gravy and Lem
non-juice, and ferve it up, with hort Sauc, A
6o The Court and Country Cook. .

Afaragus with natural Butter.


Boil your Aparagus in Water, with a little Salt; prepare
a Sauce with Butter, Salt, Vinegarand Nutmeg or white Pep
per, continually tirring it; and pour it upon the Aparagus,
when they are dres'd. There is nothing in this Article, that is
not fufficiently known, as well as what relates to Aparagus in
a Sallet. For the Potages, you may oberve by means of the
General Table, thoe that are hereafter mentioned and under
the Article of Tourtes or Pan-pies, the manner of making one
of Aparagus. - -

V.

To preerve Aparagus.
Cut off the hard Stalks, and give them one feething with
Salt and Butter: Throw them again into freh Water, and let
them be drain'd. - When they are cold, put them into a Veel,
in which they may lie at their full length, with fome Salt,
whole Cloves, green Lemmon, and as much Water as Vine
gar: Cover them with melted Butter, as 'tis fually done to
Artichokes ; putting a Linnen-cloth between, and keep them
in a temperate Place. . In order to make ue of them, them
be teept and boil'd as the others,
B. *-

French B E A N s or Kidney-beans.
The best Manner of Preferving and Dreffing them.
FR : Beans may be preferved two feveral Ways, viz.:
either pickled with Vinegar, Water and Salt, as Cucum
bers; or elfe dried, after they have been well pickt and calded,
They are uually dry'd in the Sun, and fet in a Place that is
not moit. To recover them, they are only to be teep'd in
luke-warm Water for the pace of two Days, and they'll re
fume almot the fame Verdure that they had when first ga
ther'd: Then let them be calded and dres'd after the uual"
manner. As for thoe that are Marinated or Pickled; when
they are ufficiently eaon'd in a Pot, with fome Cloves and a
little Pepper, they mut be well cover'd, let they de
- - po
The Court and Country Cook. 5.
fpoil'd, and fome melted Butter may be put upon them: As
often as you have Occafion to ue them, let them be foak'd in
Water, as the others; to the end that all their Saltnes may be
taken away, and then they may ferve either for Sallers or for
Intermeffes, after they have been calded and put into Cream.
B a E F.

Foramuch as Beef is a Thing no lefs common than necea


ry in Entertainments, 'ris requifite to devie feveral Ways of
dreing it to the bet Advantage, in order to make it delicious
and graceful even on the mot umptuous Tables.
A hort Rib of Beef, la Godard.
Let the firt hort Rib of Beef, be Spitted and one half of it
larded, with thick Slips of Bacon: When it is half roated,takeit
offrom the Spit, and put it into a Pot, after ithas been well ea
fond, with good Gravy, a few Truffles, Morilles, common Muh
r00ms and Artichokes, only to give it a Relih: In the means
while prepare another Ragoo of Truffles, Muhrooms, Morilles,
Artichoke-bottoms, Veal-weet-breads, and Cocks-combs, all
well thicken'd, which you are to put upon the hort Rib;
ang it with a Marinade of Chickens or marinated Cut
CIS, V

A hort Rib of Beef drefd after the Englih Way.


Take a large hort Rib of Beef, and let it lie two Days in
t: Afterwards Spit it, and when 'tis well roated, bread
it and put a good Ragoo both on the top and underneath.
Let this Dih be garnih'd with Hatlets, Marinades or roated
Poupiets, -

A hort Rib of Beef with Cucumbers.


Another middling Side-dih may confift of a hort Rib of Beef,
with a good Ragoo of Cucumbers, a few Shalots and fine
Herbschopt mall; fo as to give all a good Relih. It must be
ktout with marinated Veal culets, fried Bread, or fome other
Cnvenient Garniture.
f - A

---*
62 The Court and Country TE

A hort Rib of Beeffreed.


It may be farced with a Salpicon, of which fee the manner
under the letter S. Or ele, when the hort Rib is almot roast,
ed, take fome of the Fleh out of the middle, to be minced mal
with Bacon, Beef-fewet,fine Herbs, Spice and good Garnitures:
Then farce your hort Rib between the Skin and the Bone
and fow it up again neatly, left the Meat hould fall into the
Dripping-pan, whilt you are making an end of roafting it.
This Dih is to be garnih'd with Fricandoe's or Scorch Collops,
in form of larded Cutlets, with fried Bread, and when ferv'd,
up eating
of to Table, the Skins
the Meat withare to be taken off, to have the Liberty
a Spoon. J ----

A great Side-dih of a Buttock of Beef


Takea Buttock of Beef, as large or mallas you hallthink fit;
lard it with Gammon and other Bacon, that is well eaon'd
with Pepper, Salt, Coriander-feed, Cinnamon, Cloves and gra
ted Nutmeg; as alo Parley, Onions and mall Shalots, all
well mixt together. Stuffas much of thefe s you can into the
Bacon, and lard your Meat both on the top and underneath.
Seaon it again with all your Ingredients, and put it into a
Stew-pan to be marinated a little while, with Onions, Parley,
Shalots, Garlick, weet Bafil, Thyme, Verjuice, Slices of Lem
mon and a little Broth. It mut be left therein two Hours,
, and boil'd in the Evening for the next Day: It mut be put in
a Napkin, with thin Slices of Bacon, and the Napkin is to be
wrapt up cloe, o that no Fat may enter. In the mean while,
you are to chooe a Pot that is fit for it, and a Silver-Plate.
is to be laid on the Bottom, to keep the Napkin or Meat from
being burnt. For the feafoning of it, you may put therein a
bout two Pounds of Leaf-fat taken out of a Hogs Belly, or of
freh Beef-ewet, according to the bignefs of the Piece of
Beef; adding ome Verjuice, white Wine, Ginger, Cinnamon,
long Pepper, Slices of Lemmon, Nutmeg, Onion, Parley Bay
leaves, as much Salt as is requiite, weet Bafil and Coriander
whole, Fennel and Anis. Having put all into the Pot, cover
it, and let your Piece of Beefbe stew'd very gently: When 'tis
fufficiently boil'd, let it cool in its own Fat; then mak a great
Godivoe, which is to be put into the Dih, in which the P Q
\
---r-in

The Court and Country Cook. , 63


of Beef is to be dres'd ; cover it with the fame Godivoe, and
fet it into the Oven for an Hour. In order to bring it to Ta
ble, a well eaoned Beef-cullis is to be prepar'd; then make a
round Hole on the top of the Godivoe, to pour in your Cullis,
fo as to penetrate into part, and of a Lemmon
thereupon. This fort of Beef may be ferv'd up cold in thin
Slices instead of Beef la Royale.
A Side-dih of a Piece of Beef.
Take the hinder part of a Buttock, larded with thick Slips of
Bacon, and having put it into a Pot or Kettle with two Pounds
ofLard, ome good Slices of Bacon and the neceary eaoning
Ingredients, let it boil very gently, about two Hours: Take
care that it be corned, and that no Air comes to it, when tis
boiling. At leaft, you may put a little Brandy thereto, and
garnih it with Marinade.

Another Side-dih of a Piece of Beef.


Leta Buttock of Beef, moderately corned, be put into a
Pot, with all forts of fine Spices and Onions. Having fill'd
the Pot with Water, let it boil and be well cummd: Then
ome good Meat-gravy is to be put therein to enrich it. When
tis boil'd and ready to be dres'd in its Dih, you mut take
| away a little of the Fat from the top, and put upon it a Gam
mon-hah, garnih'd with a Marinade of larded Veal fried, and
farcd Cucumbers, according to the Method hereafter decribd;
or ele with Artichoke-bottoms cut into two pieces, and Vea
Sweet-breads, all fried and teept in the fame manner as the
Cucumbers.

A Side-dih of Beef-stakes rolled.


Having cut ome good Slices or Stakes of Beef, beat them
fat on the Dreffer, with a Cleaving-knife: For example, Take
three or four large Slices, according to the fize of your Dih,
and make a farced Meat of Capons-fleh, a piece of a Leg of
Weal,Bacon,tried Sewet, boil'd ammon, Parley and Chibbols,
with fome Veal Sweet breads, Truffles and Muhrooms,all minc'd
and well feafon'd with Spice and fine Herbs. To thee are al
to be added three or Yolks of Eggs with a little Milk
Creann,
64 The Court and Country Cook.
cream, and when your Farce is well minc'd, lay it upon the
Beef takes, which are to be neatly roll'd up, till they become ve
firm and compat, and of a convenient thicknes. Thus they
are to be tew'd over the Fire for a coniderable time; then take
them out of the Pot, drain off the Fat, cut them into two
pieces, and dres them in a Dih, on the fame fide that they
were cut, which is uppermot. When they are fet in order
fome Ragoo or Cullis may be put upon them, and nothing:
ele. \, - !

This Farce may ferve for feveral forts of Fowl, when in


great Entertainments thre are many to be farced. It may alo:
be ued for collop'd Veal, farced Fricandoes and other Things.
Side-dihes and Out-works of the like nature, are uually made
with Veal-takes dres'd after the fame manner.

A Side-dih of a Piece of Beef, with Cucumbers.


Take a Piece ofgood tender Beef and roat it,barded or cover'd
with thin Slices of Bacon,and wrapt up in Paper; but let it not
be over-done: Then cut it into Filets or mall thin Slices, and
put them into a Dih. In the mean while, fome Cucumbers
are likewie to be cut into Slices, according to the quantity of
the Filets ; but they mut be marinated : Squeeze them, and
put them into a Stew-pan with fome Lard to be well ftew'd over
The Furnace. Afterwards drain off all the Lard, throw in a little
Flower and tos them up again a little while: Laftly, Soak
them with good Gravy, proportionably to the quantity of your
Filets. When they are ready, fome good thickening Liquor
mut be put in, to make the Ingredients incorporate well toge
ther; a Spoonful of Gammon-effence, would be excellent for.
that purpoe: Add to thee, a little Verjuice or Vinegar, and
let not your Filets boil any longer left they hould grow hard.
They are to be erv'd up hot to Table, and garnih'd with fried
Bread, Marinades, or Riffoles. - -

All other forts of Filets, with Cucumbers, may be made in


the fame manner. -
|
-

Another Side-dih of Beef-Filets.


Another Side-dih may be prepar'd with Beef-Filets larded, :
and marinated with Vinegar, Salt, . Pepper, Cloves, Thyme :
and Onions, which are to be rcated by a gentle Fire: When
, - they
*1 =--- -

The C777 Country Cook. 65

they are ready, put them into good Gravy with Truffles, and
garnih them with marinated Chickens or Pigeons, or with Fri
candoes,

other coursts of Beef.


Some mall pieces of Beef may be ferv'd up for Out-works,
which are to be a little corn'd and garnih'd with Parly; but
if it be a middling Side-dih, it may be garnih'd with what
you hall think fit. They are alo put into Gravy, when minc'd
very mall,
Parfly. with a Shalot, or a Clove of Garlick, and chopt
I

A ce of Brisket-beef may be put into a Pot, and when par


boil'd,larded with thick Slips of Bacon eaon'd with Salt,Pepper,
beaten Cloves and Nutmeg ; and the boiling of them may be
finih'd in an Earthen Pan, with thin Slices of Bacon at the
Bottom, Pepper, Salt, a Bunch of Herbs, a little White-wine,
green Lemmon, Bay-leaves and Broth. When 'tis boil'd, put
thereto a Ragoo of Muhrooms, Oiters, Capers and toned
Olives, all well thicken'd; as alo Lemmon-juice, when ready
to be ferv'd up to Table, and let it be garnih'd with Slices of
the fame. -

For the Sauce with Vinegar and Pepper; take a Beef-take, let
it be well beaten, larded with thick Slips of Bacon, and boil'din
Water,with a Glas of White-wine; eaoningithigh with Pep
per, Salt, Cloves, Bay-leaves and a Faggot of Herbs. Let the
Broth be well foaked, and when cold, the Stake being in the
fame Pot, it may be ferv'd up with Lemmon-lices and a little
Winegar. -

Beef-takes may alo be put into a Pie; to which purpoe fee


that of a Fillet of Veal, under the Letter P, and oberve the
fame Method; except that the Beef-take Pie requires longer
time in baking, But you mut by no means forget to make a
Hole therein, when put into the Oven, and to top it up, when
taken out. *

Beef la Mode,ought to be well beaten,larded with thick Slips of


Bacon, and,if you pleae, tew'd in a Pan, before it be boil'd,with
Pepper, Salt,Bay-leaves, green Lemmon, half a douzen of Muh
rooms, a Glas of White-wine and two Glaes of Water:. It
may likewife be stew'd in its own Gravy, cloe coverd over a
entle Fire. When 'tis boil'd, fry fome Flower in a Pan, with
rd, which may be put therero wi;Lemmon-juice. Th
E
66 The Court and Country Cook.
The Palate of an Ox is frequently ued in Mine-droit, or
Menus-droits, for which fee the Letter M.
B 1 s K E r s.

The Manner of Making Savoy-biskets.


There are feveral forts of Biskets very common, but for thoe
that are call'd Savoy-biskets ; take three or four new-laid Eggs,
more-or les according to the quantity of Biskets you intend
to make: Then having provided a pair of Scales, put the Eggs
into one, and fome baked Flower into the other: Lift them ti
to render the Weight equal on both fides; for example, if four
Eggs were put in, you are to take out one, and leave th three
others: Weigh out as much fine Sugar pounded to Powder, as
the weight of the Eggs amounts to, and take away the four
Whites, to make as trong a Snow of them as ,
can be.
Having minc'd fome green Lemmon-peel, reduce it as it were
to Powder, and mix it with the Flower that was weighd a :
little before : Beat them up a little, fome Sugar thereto,
after having beaten them again, add ome Yolks of Eggs,
and whip all together for fome time. Afterwardslet the Biskets
be made upon Paper, either in a round or long Form, at plea-
fure, and they may be neatly iced with Sugar beaten to Pow- .
der. They are to be bak'd in an Oven, taking care that it be
not too hot, and as foon as they are done, cut them off from
the Paper, with a thin Knife. They are us'd for Fruit or to
garnih certain Pies. -

Another fort of Biskets. -


Take three or four Eggs, according to the quantity of Biskets
you are defirous to make, and beat them up a little while;~to
which add as much raped Sugar as you can take up between
your Fingers at four or five times, with ome Lemmon-peel,
and mix all together, with four or five Spoonfuls of baked
Flower. This Compound is to be laid upon Paper that has
been trew'd thick with Sugar, and fome Sugar being likewife
trew'd on the top, fer into the Oven, to be dried. When it is
drawn out, cut the Biskets, all at once, with the Paper under-
neath, according to the bignes and hape, you would have
them to be of, and with a Pen-knife cut of the Paper gently,
or
The Court and Country Cook. 67
for fear of breaking any of them; which may be eaily done,
becaue they ought to be very dry. Thee Biskets ferve, as the
former, either for Fruit, or to garnih Pies. -

There are feveral other forts of Biskets, but befides that they
fcarce differ in any thing, except the Name; it is the peculiar
Province of the Confetioner: Therefore the inquiitive Rea
ders are referr'd to the Instrutions that have been already pu
blih'd for the fe of thoe Perons.
B 1 s K s.

Thee forts of Potages are made with Quails, Capons and


large fat Pullets, and mot commonly Pigeons; o that we hall
firt hew the manner of preparing the lat.

T make a Bisk of Pigeons.


Take Pigeons newly kill'd ; cald, pick and parboil them, and
let them be tewd, in clear Broth, with feveral Bards or thin
Slices of Bacon, an Onion ftuck with Cloves, - and two Slices
of Lemmon, all well cummd. Set them on the Fire, only one
Hour before they are us'd, according to their bignes, and when
they are drefs'd, lay them afide for a while. In order to make
a proper Ragoo for them, 'tis requifite to take fome Veal-Sweet
breads cut into two parts, Muhrooms cut into mall pieces,
Truffles in Slices, Artichoke-bottoms cut into four quarters, and
one whole, to be put into the middle of the Potage. You mut
carefully fry this Ragoo, with a little Lard, fine Flower, and
an Onion ftuck with Cloves, and need not tay till it grows
brown. When 'tis thus drefs'd, put a little good Broth therein
and tew it, with a Slice of Lemmon. In the mean while, caue
to be boiled a-part in a little Pot,ome Cocks-combs well cald
ed and pickt, with thin Slices of Bacon, Veal-fewet, fome clear
Broth, a Slice of Lemmon and an Onion tuck with three
Cloves ; but care mut be more epecially taken,that the whole
Mixture be well parboil'd : To which purpoe, train a little
Bread-crum, with only two Spoonfuls of good Broth thro a
Sieve. Your Pigeons, Cocks combs and Ragoo being ready,
make Sippets, with Cruts of Bread toafted at the Fire, and
lay the Potage a foaking with good Broth : Then dres the Pi
geons therein, and the Arrichoke-bottom in the middle ; the
Ragoo being put between the Pigeons, and the Cocks-combs
, F 2 upon
68 The Court and Country Cook.
upon their Stomacks: When the Fat is throughly taken away,
pour in the rest of the Ragoo.. At the fame time you are to
provide a piece of Beef or Veal half roasted, which is to be
n a Stew-pan or on a Dih, and to be fqueez'd hard, to get
the Gravy: It ought to be fet at a distance from the Fire, to
the end that it may become white; and when the Potage is
dres'd, fprinkle it with this Gravy, that it may be well marbled.
It mut be garnih'd with Lemmon, one half of which may
be fqueez'd thereupon, and ferv'd up hot to Table.

Bisks of Quails and others.


Trus your Quails neatly in the fame manner as Chickens,
and dres them with burnt Butter till they acquire a fine Colour:
Then put them into a little Por, with fome good Broth, Slices
of Bacon, a Bunch of Herbs, Cloves, and other Things proper
to feafon them ; as alo a piece of a bearen Beef-take, another
of lean Bacon and fome green Lemmon, and let all boil over
a gentle Fire. This Bisk mut be garnih'd as the other, with
Sweet-breads of Veal, Arrichoke-bottoms, Muhrooms, Truffles,
Fricandoes and Cocks-combs, with the finest of which you may
make a Ring or Border round about the Dih ; marbling the
Potage with a Veal-cullis and Lemmon-juice, as it is a ferving
up to Table. /* ;

The Bisks of Capons and fat Pullets are made after the fame
manner as the preceeding, as well as thoe of young Barn-door
Chickens.
As for Bisks of Fih; chop fome Muhrooms very mall, and -

lay them upon the Crufts of Bread that are to be foaked with
good Fih-broth. The Ragoo may be made with Carp-roes,
Pike-livers, the Tails and Claws of Cray-fih, and Juice of
Lemmon, garnih'd with the fame.
B L A N c - M A N G e R s.
Blanc-mangers are us'd in Intermeffes, or formiddling Dihes
or Out-works, and may be made thus: Take Calves-feet, and
a Hen that is not very fat, let them be well boil'd without Salt
and traind; taking care that it be not too strong nor too thin.
If you have too great a quantity of Jelly, take out fome of it,
putting fome Sugar, Cinnamon and Lemmon-peel to the reft,
and let all boil a little while over the Fire, in a Stew-pan; af
- ter
The Court and Country Cook. 69
ter having taken off the Fat. In the mean while, ome weet
Almonds are to be provided, and if you pleae, even or eight
bitter ones among them, according to the quantity of your
Blanc-manger: areto be well pounded,and well moiten'd
with Milk, that they may not turn to Oil. Then train the
Blanc-manger, that is not too hot, twice or thrice with the
Almonds; wah the Sieves well, and train them again once
more, to the end that the Liquor may become very white. Af
ter having pour'd it into a Dih, ice it neatly, and pas over it
two Sheets of white Paper, to take off the Fat. t a little
Orange-flower-water be put thereto, and when 'tis well con
geal'd, ferve it up cold to Table, garnihing it with Lem
IIMOI1.

To make Blanc-mangers of divers Colours, fee what is here


after declard under the Article of Gellies.
- A Blanc-manger of Harts-horn.
Take about a Pound of rafped Harts-horn, proportionably
to the quantity you deign to make, and let it boil confi
derable time;, o that, dipping your Finger therein, you per
ceive that the Liquor is become as it were clammy; which is a
fign that 'tis ufficiently boil'd. Strain this Jelly thro a very
fine Sieve, and pound the Almonds; moitening them with Milk
and a little Cream. Then you mut train the fame Jelly with .
thee Almonds, three or four times, to render it very white,
and put thereto a little Orange-flower-water. -

If the Entertainment be made on Fih-days in Lent; for the


Evening-coure, the Blanc-manger mut only be train'd with
pounded Almonds; fqueezing a little Lemmon-juice therein,
and no Milk is to be put intit. When 'tis ready it may be
ferv'd up in Ice, ' . . . . . ** , , , ,

B o A R 's H E A D, fee H E A D ,
B o u c o N s. ' , .

To make Boucons, take a Fillet of Veal cut into mall Stakes


or Slices, that are omewhat long and thin, and beat them on
a Table or Dreffer: Then having prepar'd fome mall Slices of
fat Bacon, with as many of raw Gammon, dipoe them in
Ranks a-cros your Veal-lices, that is to ay, firt one Slie of
- F 3 Bacon,
7o The Court and Country Cook.
Bacon, and then another of Gammon. Strew them with a little
Parley and Chibbols, and eaon them with Spice and fine Herbs.
The Veal-takes being thus cover'd with thee Slices, are to be
neatly roll'd up, as if they were Filets Mignons and broil'd upon
the oals. When they re drefs'd, let the Fat be drain'd off,
and ferve them up hot, with a good Cullis, and a Ragoo of
Muhrooms. *
-

B o U I L L A N s

Are made thus: Take the Breasts afroasted Pullets or Ca-


with a little Marrow, about the thicknes of an Egg, |
ome Calves-udder parboil'd, as much Bacon and a few fine
Herbs, and put the whole Mixture well minc'd and eaon'd
upon a Plate: Make fome fine Paste and roll out two pieces,
as thin as Paper: Wet one of them lightly with a little Water,
and lay your farced Meat upon it in mall heaps, at a conve
nient ditance one from another: Cover them with the other
piece of rolled Pate, and with the tips of your Fingers, cloe
up every Parcel between the two Pastes; then with an Intru
ment proper for that purpoe, cut them off one by one, and fet
the uppermot underneath ; drefing them neatly, as if they
were fo many little Pies. Thus they are to be bak'd, and may
be ued for Out-works, or to garnih Side-dihes; but they mut
be ferv'd up hot to Table. - -

B o u r o N. -

A Side-dih of a fmall Bouton.


Prepare a good well-eaon'd Godivoe, as for the Poupeton, ac
eording to the Method hereafter, decribed under the Lettr G.
Let it ferve as it were for a Lay upon broad thin Slices of Ba
con, that are capable of wrapping up your whole Bouton, and
add thereto a good Ragoo of Muhrooms, Veal-Sweet-breads,
Artichoke-bottoms, Cocks-combs, Moufferons, Truffles and Apa-
ragus-tops dres'd with white Sauce. Then cover it again with
another Lay of Godivoe and Bacon-lices, and let it be bak'd
between two Fires, or dres'd otherwie. When 'tis ready to
be ferv'd up to Table, after the Fat is taken off, put ome Lem
mon-juice therein, garnih it with little farced Rolls, Fricandoes
and Marinades intermixt,
** -- The
The Court and Country Cook. 71
The fame thing may be done on Fih-days, making the Godi
voe of the Fleh of Carps, Eels, Tenches and other forts of
Fih, well minc'd and eaon'd.
B R A 1 s E s.
We hall not here enlarge upon every Thing that may be
bak'd or stew'd la Braife, that is to ay, between two Fires, viz.
one on the top and the other underneath, which is a manner of
Dreifing that extremely heightens the Relih of Meat, and is very
much in vogue. Some Examples of it have been already produc'd
in the Article of Beef, and many others will be found hereafter,
which hall be likewife explain'd- in the repetive Places to
which the Things themelves belong, and if this be not always
done, you need only conult the Articles that come near them,
and have recoure for that purpoe, to the Table of the princi
pal Matters at the end of this Volume.

B R o 1 1 1 N G upon a Grid-iron, fee G R 1 l 1 A d s.


B R o T H s.

Altho' this Article might be referr'd to that of Potages, as


properly belonging thereto; nevertheles we have judg'd it ne
ceffary to take notice of it in this place, to the end that the
Reader may be freed from any Doubt that might arie con
cerning the different forts of Broths which he has already ob
ferv'd or may meer with hereafter; or from the Prins he might
otherwie take in earching for fome Lighr in the matter elfe
where: Therefore we have here fet down what is most remark
able, with repect to the Broths that are requiite, as well for
the Potages, as for the Side-dihes. c. A
, **
-* * *
-

Fat Broth,

Boil fome part of a Buttock and Leg of Beef, with other


Meats, and take out the Gravy and Broth ; training it thro' a
Linnen-cloth : Let the fame pieces be put a fecond time into the
Pot,and having caus'd them to be well boil'd,takeout the Broth
again ; keeping both thee forts hot a-part. The firt will be
of good ue to be put to Capons, young Turkeys, Chickens,
Quails, Veal and other farced * that are to be ferv'd up
- 4 in
/
72 The Court and Country Cook.
in white Potage. Capon or Veal-broth ought to be taken to
foak young Pigeons for Bisks, and with the Broth of the Bisks,
a Cullis may be made, for the Potages la Reine and la Roy
aie. Lastly, The Broth of farced Meats will ferve to make a
Cullis for the fame forts of Mear, viz. young Turkeys and Pul
lets, Knuckles and Breafts of Veal, and other Joynts of Meat
that ought to be farc'd and parboil'd. . . .
The econd fort of Broth taken out of the great Pot, is to
be put into the brown Potages, particularly, thofe of Ducks,
Teals, Rabbets, Ring-doves, Larks, Pheaants, Thruhes, Cab
bage, Turneps and others; and the brown Ingredients which
ferve to thicken ehem, are to be mixt with the fame Broth,
without confounding that of one of thee forts, with the others.
This Broth is alo proper for the Side-dihes, and ome of it
may be ued in boiling the Pickings of Muhrooms; of which
the Pulp is to be taken out, to ferve for that Cullis, for all the
Potages, Side-dihes and Intermees.
N. B. The other forts of Culifes are hereafter destrib'd under
the Letter C, and the Gravies under G. -

Morning-broth for Breakfast.


Tis uually made with a piece of Buttock-beef, the craggy
end of a Neck of Mutton, a Neck of Veal and two Pullets.
Take the Breats of the Pullets when they are boil'd, pound
them in a Mortar with a piece of Bread-crum, teept in fome
Broth; and all being well eaon'd, strain it thro' the Sieve, to
be laid upon the Crufts foak'd in the fame Broth that is then
made. .
The particular Broths for Potages de Sant and others are to
be found in their proper Places, under the Letter P; only in
favour of fick Perons, it may not be improper to ubjoyn what
may tend to their Advantage. -

jely-brnih for conumptive Perons.


... Put a Joynt of Mutton into an Earthen Pot, with a Capon,
a Filler of Veal and three Quarts of Water; which is to be
boil'd over a gentle Fire, till one half be conumd. Then fqueez
all together and strain the Liquor thro a Linnen-cloth.
, The Restaurative Broth is ranked among the Potages, under
the Title of Potage without Water. N B
The Court and Country Cook. 73

N.B. The following Liquors tho' not falling under the Qrder of
the Alphabet ought to be inferted in this place, viz.
Veal-liquor.
Having cut a Fillet of Veal into very thin Slices, let them boil
in an Earthen Pot full of Water over a gentle Fire, for the pace
of an Hour ; and then strain this Liquor thro a Linnen-cloth,
without fqueezing the Meat.
Chicken or Pullet-liquor.
Put two or three Chickens or young Pullets into a Pot, with
Water,and when they have boil'd two Hours over a gentle Fire,
strain the Liquor thro a Linnen-cloth; to which may be added
Buglos, Borage, Succory and other cooling Herbs, according to
the Circumstances of the Patients and the Precriptions of the
Phyicians. *

capon-liquor.
Let a Capon be fer over a gentle Fire, in an Earthen Pot,
with three Guarts of Water : When the Capon is boil'd, and
one Pint of the Water wated, take it out without queezing. .
Fih-broth.
This Broth is the chief Ingredient of allforts of Fih-potages
that can be prepar'd with the feveral Ditinctions that are
made for every one. To that purpoe, cleane Tenches, Eels,
Pikes and Carpsfrom their Slime, and cut off their Gills: Then
put all into a great Kettle or Pot, with Water, Butter, Salt, a
Faggot of fine Herbs and an Onion stuck with Cloves. When
they have boil'd an Hour and half, train the Broth thro a Lin
nen-cloth, and pour fome of it eparately into three Pots: In
one of them put the Pickings of Muhrooms, which afterwards
are to be pas'd thro' the Sieve, with a Cullis, fried Flower
and a piece of green Lemmon: This thickening Liquor may
ferve for the brown Potages, as alo for the Side-dihes and In
termees. In the econd, may be put pounded Almonds, with
the Yolks of hard Eggs, if the time will permit ; and this
is proper for white Potages, particularly thoe of " .
- melts,
74 . The Court and Country Cook. -

. Smelts, Perches, Soles and other Fih dres'd in white Broth and
for ome Ragoo's of the like Nature. Latly, in the third Pot,
the Fih of all the Potages as well White as Brown, both for
the Side-dihes and Intermeffes may be boil'd together, and ome
Jelly may alo be made of them.
Another fort of Fih-broth may likewife be prepared thus;
Take a great Kettle or Pot, of a fize proportionable to the quan
tity of Potage that is to be made. Hang it over the Fire, and
put Water therein, with Parly-roots, Parneps, whole Onions,
a handful of Parily and Sorrel, all forts of fine Herbs and good
Butter, all well feafon'd. Add to thee, the Bones and Car
caffes of Fihes, whoe Fleh has been taken to make Farces,
and even the Entrails of thoe that have been farc'd, after ha
ving been well cleaned, and, if you pleae, fome Cray-fih-tails
pounded, with four or five Spoonfuls of Onion-juice. The :
whole Mes being well eaon'd and fufficiently boil'd, strain it
thro' a Sieve, put it again into the Pot, and keep it hot, to
lay the Soops a foaking, to prepare the Fih for the Potage, and
for other Ufes. -

Broth on Fih-days, for the Potage with Herbs.


Let all forts of good Herbs be into a Pot, with two or
hree Crufts of Bread, feafon'd with Salt, Butter and a Bunch
*
of fine Herbs: When they have boil'd an Hour and half, train
the Broth thro' a Linnen-cloth, or a Sieve. This will ferve for :
the Potage de Sant without Herbs, and for many others; par
ticularly for thoe of Lettice, Aparagus, Succory, Artichokes,
Cardoons, &c. *

A fort of Broth may likewie be made on Days of Abtinence,


with Roots without Fih, and with clear Peas-foop; training
the whole Mes, asbefore.
B R U s o L E s.
Take ome Stakes, or Meat cut into Slices, beaten a little :
while with the back of a Knife, and put them into a Stew-pan, :
with feveral thin Slices of Bacon laid in order underneath : *
*,

Strew them with Parly, chopt Chibbols and Spices; continu :


ing to make a Lay of the like fort of Seafoning, and another
of Stakes, till at last you cover them well with broad Slices of
Bacon, and fet them between two Fires, on the top and under
- neath ;
The Court and Country Cook. 75
neath ; after having caus'd the Pan to be cloe cover'd. When
they are ready, a Cullis may be prepar'd with the Carcaffes of
Partridges: Then, having taken off all the Fat, put thee Stakes
into a Dih and pour the Cullis upon them : They are com
monly call'd Brufoles or Burfoles in French, and are ued for Side
dihes. -

They may alo be farc'd with a good Godivoe, minc'd and


well pounded in a Mortar, with fine Herbs, Yolks of Eggs,
Cream and the uual feaoning Ingredients ; putting this farc'd
Meat upon very large Fricandoes or Scotch Collops, that are to
be wrapt up in broad Slices of Bacon and bak'd in a Pie-pan.
As foon as they are ready, pour a Ragoo upon them, made of
Truffles, Moufferons and V to thicken them.
See under the Letter F. the Manner of Dreffing farc'd Fri
candoes, which have fome relation to thee Brufoles.
B u R r s or Bret-fih.
In drefing Burts, you may endeavour to imitate the Method
hereafter explain'd for Soles ; for as to the Way of ordering
them with natural Butter, or of making a Ragoo, by fryin
them in burnt Butter, after having cut off their Heads; 'tis
very common, that none can be ignorant of it.
Neither hall we infit on the Manner of tewing Baes, or ,
other Appurtenances belonging to them; becaue 'tis only re
quiite to take Meaures in thoe Caes, from other Things of
the like Nature. -

C.
C A B B A G E s and C o L E w o R T s.
AMong the Porages you may oberve the Manner of thoe
that are dres'd with Cabbages or Coleworts, for different
forts of Fowl, viz. Pigeons, Partridges, Wood-hens, Stock
doves, Pullets, Capons, Chicken, Ducks, &c. They may alo
be prepar'd with farc'd Cabbage, according to the following
Diretions ; or ele they may be ferv'd up for Side-dihes,
garnihing them with farc'd Fricandoes. - -

* - The
-w

76 TTTTTTT T T A

The Manner of Dreffing a farc'd Cabbage for a Side-dist.


Take a good Cole-cabbage ; cut off the Stalk, with a little :
of the Body, and let it be well calded. Then take it out of
the Water, pread it on the Dreffer, o as the Leaves may lye:
together, and lay fome farced Meat them, made of the
Fleh of Fowls, a piece of a Leg of Veal, fome parboil'd Ba
con, Fat of boil'd Gammon, Truffles and Muhrooms chopt.Par
fly, Chibbol and a Clove of Garlick; the whole Mixture being -
feaon'd with fine Herbs and Spice, with fome Bread-crum,
two whole Eggs, and two or three Yolks, all well minc'd.
Your Cabbage being tuff'd with this Farce, let it be closd, .
neatly tied up and put into a Pot or Stew-pan. At the fame
time, take part of a Leg of Veal or of Beef cut into Stakes and
well beaten ; put them in order in a Pan, as it were to make
Gravy : When they are colour'd, throw in as much Flower as
you can rake up between your Fingers, and let them be brought |
to a colour all together: Afterwards foak them with good .
Broth and eaon them with fine Herbs and Slices of Onion: .
When they are half boil'd, let the Cabbage, Stakes and Gravy
be intermixt and all feathed up together, but be careful not to
put too much Salt therein. All being thus made ready, dres |
them in a Dih without Broth, put a Ragoo upon them, as it
may stand with your convenience, either la Saingaraz or fome
other fort, and ferve them up hot to Table.
A Cabbage may likewie be farced on Days of Abstinence,
with fome Fleh of Fih and other Things to garnih it, asif it !
were a Carp, Pike, or other Fih prepared to be farc'd.

How to make
Small certain Ornaments call'd Petits-chux, i. e.
Coleworts. * . m -

Take fome Cheee that is very fat, uch as the best fort of
Cream-cheee,as much as you hall think fit: Letitbe put into a
Stew-pan, with two handfuls of Flower, proportionably to the
quantity of Cheee, adding thereto fome green Lemmon-peel
minc'd, and ome candy'd Lemmon-peel likewie cut very mall:
Then, taking a Spatula in your Hand, ftir all together with a
little Salt: When ris well mixt, put four or five Eggs therein,
and make a fort of Pate or Batter like that of Fritters. After
wards take fome mall Pie-pans, butter them on the infide, and
* put
TTTTTTTT TF 77
put a little of this Farce into every one of them: But before
they are fet into the Oven, they mut be wah'd over with the
Yolk of an Eggbeaten up. As foon as they are bak'd, they may
be ic'd over with fine Sugar, or a proper white Ice may be
made for them, which is elewhere decribed.
C A P o N s.

It were needles here to make a Colletion of the different


forts of Capon-potages; becaue they are particularly expres'd
in the General Table of the Mees. The Reader is alo re
ferr'd for the other Meffes, that are made with Capons-breafts,
fuchas Tourtes or Pan-pies, Riffoles and Bouillans to the repetive
Letters of the Alphabet to which thoe Articles properly belong.
And for roasted Capons, it may be oberv'd with what Sauce
they ought to be dres'd, under the Letter R ; where every
Thing is fet down that relates to The Roast. Recoure may alo
be had, for thoe that are dres'd in a Daube to the Letter D;
where Examples are to be found for other forts of Fowl, which
may be follow'd, without any difficulty, and fo of the ret.
C A P o N s - L 1 v B R s, ee L 1 v B R s.
C A R D o o N s.

Pick your Cardoons very well, and leave nothing on them but
what is good: Then, having cut them into pieces, ler them be
wah'd and calded in Water, with a little Salt, Slices of Lem
mon, Beef-fewet and Bards, or thin broad Slices of Bacon. On
Fil-days, fome Butter is uually put to them thicken'd with a
linleFlower. When they are fcalded, let ome good Gravy of
a fine colour be prepared in a Stew-pan; drain the Cardons
andput them into that Gravy, with a Bunch offine Herbs, fome
minced Beef-marrow and a little raped Parmefan, and let them
bestew'd in this manner, after they have been well eaon'd.
kore they are fet on the Table, a little Vinegar or Verjuice
mut be pour'd upon them, and care mut be taken, that they
d not turn black. They ought alo to be well clear'd from
ile Fat, and fo ferv'd up hor for Intermees, after having given
thema colour with the red-hot Fire-hovel.
, Cardoons are alo broil'din Broth and Gravy, with a thicken
"gLiquor of a reddih colour: They are to be fet in order in
2.
78 s The Court and Country Cook.
a Dih or Plate, with a Crt of Bread underneath to make |

the Dome or Coroner. Strew them with raped Cheee and a


little grated Cinnamony and bring them to a good colour.
C A R P s.

A Side-dih of a Carp. |

Leave the Carp with its Scales on, and make a Ragoo of
Moufferons, or elfe of common Muhrooms, Fih-roes and Ar
tichoke-bottoms: Then fry fome Crufts of Bread, to be put
into the Sauce as it is tewing,with Onions and Capers. When
'tis ready to be fet on the Table and your Carp is taken up,
without being broke, put the Ragoo upon it, and garnih it
with fried Bread and Lemmon-juice.

Carp in a Daube.
. Take a couple of Soles with a Pike; unbone them, and with
their Fleh make farced Meat, chopping it mall with a little
Chibbol, beaten Spice, Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg. Then thicken
this Farce with Yolks of Eggs, if the time will allow it, and
you may try to do it with an Andeuillet ready dres'd. Take
one of the finet Carps you can get, tuff it with this Farce,
feafon it with fine Herbs, and boil it with white Wine in an
oval Stew-pan, over a gentle Fire. In the meanwhile, prepare
a great Ragoo of Moufferons, Morilles, common Muhrooms,
Truffles, Arrichoke-bottoms and Cray-fih-tails trained. Keep
your Ragoo a-part for a coniderable time, and then pour it
upon the Carp; which is to be dres'd upon an oval Dih, when
ready to be fet on the Table. It mut be garnih'd with Cray-
-
fith
dih.
and Slices of Lemmon, and may
Q
ferve for a great Side-
*
* Another Side-dih of Carps.
They are to be tuff'd with a well-eaon'd Farce foak'd in
Cream, and then bak'd in an Qven: Garnih your Dih with
Bread and Parly fried, or with Marinades. .
*
The Court and Country Cook. 79

A Carp larded with Eel in a Ragoo.


When the Carpis cal'd, lard it with thick Pieces of Eel and
fry itin a Pan with burnt Butter. Then put it into a Dih, with
the fame Butter, a little fried Flower and Muhrooms ; eaon- -
ing it with Pepper, Salt, Nurmeg, Cloves, a Bay-leaf, a piece
of green Lemmon, and a Glafs of white Wine. As foon as it
is dres'd, put thereto fome freh Oiters and Capers, and let
them oak together for a little while. This Dih may be gar
nih'd with Slices of Lemmon;

Farced Carps.
Let the Carps be fcal'd, and the Skin eparated from the
Fleh ; leaving the Head and Tail : Make a Farce with the
fame Fleh and that of an Eel, eaon'd with fine Herbs, Pep
per, Cloves, Nutmeg, Thyme, Muhrooms and Butter. Farce
your Skins likewife and fow or tie them together: Then bake
them in an Oven or otherwife,with burnt Butter,white Wine and
Broth; pouring upon it fome Butter well mixt with fried Flower
and Parfly cut very mall. Let them be garnih'd with Carp
roes, Muhrooms, Capers and Slices of Lemmon.
Carp-Filets.
They may be mixt with Cucumbers and Moufferons, and 'tis
only requifite to follow the Diretions fet down for the Pike, un
der the Letter P, or thoe for the Soles under S. The fame
thing ought to be oberv'd with repet to the other forts of
Fih, which we hall refer to their proper Places, to avoid need
- les Repetitions. *

A Carp in a Demi-court-bouillon.
Cut a Carp into four quarters, leaving the Scales on, boil it
with white Wine, or ome other fort of Wine, a little Verjuice
and Vinegar, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves, Chibbols, Bay
leaves, burnt Butter and Orange-peel: Let the Broth be boil'd
to a very mall quantity ; add ome Capers as it is a dreffing,
and Lemmon-lices to garnih it,
Carps
8o The Court and Country Cook.
Carps in a Court-bouillon.
Cut off the Gills and Entrails of your Carps and put them into
a Court-bouillon au bleu, which is hereafter the Pike -
under the Letter P: Then boil them in white Wine, with Ver-
juice, Vinegar, Onions, Bay-leaves, Cloves and Pepper, and -
ferve it up to Table on a Napkin, with green Parly and Slices
of Lemmon, among the Intermees.
Carps broil'd upon the Grid-iron.
Let your Carps be cal'd, and broil'd upon the Grid-iron,
with Butter and Salt; whilt a Sauce is making for them, with
burnt Butter, Capers, Anchovies, green Lemmon or Orange, .
and Vinegar, with Pepper, Salt and Mutard. They
may alo be dres'd with white Sauce. -

Potages of farced Carps and otherwife.


'Tis ufficient to have recoure to the preceding Article of
a farced Carp , or to what is elewhere pecified concerning
the Potage of a farced Pike. The latter may be garnih'd with
Artichoke-bottoms, fried Oiters, Capers, Muhrooms in a :
Ragoo and in Slices, and Lemmon-juice.
Potage of Profitrolles is made with Carp-fleh minc'd , after
manner that hall be declard among the Potages for Fih
ayS. ---- - ||

For Carp-hahes, ee the firt Article of the Letter H, and look


for Carp-pies, among thoe of Fih under P. --

C A s s E R o L E s.

Cafferoles, take their Name from the Stew-pan in which they


are dres'd, call'd Cafferole by the French, and are generally u-
fed for Side-dihes and Potages : For the former, take a large
Loaf wah'd over with Eggs, which mut not be chipt on the
upper fide ; bore a Hole therein underneath, and take away
the Crum or Pith. Afterwards prepare a good Hah of roated
Chickens, fat Pullets, or fome other fort of Roat-meat, and .
put this Meat well minc'd into a Stew-pan, with good Gravy,
as if it were to make a Hah, When it is dres'd, put
- -
for O
The Court and C75 7 . F;
of it with a Spoon into the Loaf, that was toafted at the Fire ;
on the crummy fide : After thus pour'd in a little of
this Hah, add fome mall Crufts of Bread, and proceed to fill
up the Loafalternately, with the Hah and mall Pieces of Cruft.
take a Stew-pan that is no bigger than your Loaf; put
a Sheet of Paper into it, or rather, ome Bards or thin Slices of
Bacon,and afterwards the Loaf on that fide where it was farc'd;
covering the bottom of it, with the fame Loaf. Let it lye
foaking in this manner, with good Gravy ; but it mut not be
too much presd, nor too long steept, o that it may be kept
altogether entire, and well coverd. A little before 'tis ferv'd
upto Table, turnir out dextrouly into a Dih, take away the
Bacon-Bards, drain off the Fat; and cover your Loaf with a
good Ragoo of Veal-weet-breads, Artichoke-bottoms and Truf
jies; mall tops of Aparagus being alo pread round about the
Dih, according to the Seafon. -

A Cafferole with Cheefe.


The only diference is, that a little raped Parmean mut be
put into the farced Loaf, and when the fame Loaf is dres'd
in its Dih, it mut alo be trew'd with Parmefan. Tis uually
brought to fomewhat of a colour in the Oven, and the Ragoo
put round about it. This is call'd a Cafferole with Parmean.
A Cafferole with Rice,

Boil your Rice in a Pot, and make a Ragoo with Morilles,


common Muhrooms, Tui, Veal-weet-breads, Cocks-combs
and Artichoke-bottoms. If you pleae, the Combs and Morilles
may be farc'd and dres'd a-part, and afterwards pur into the
Ragoo. Then make an Effence, with two or three Cloves of
Garlick, weet Bafil, Cloves and Wine ; let all boil together,
ftrain the Liquor thro' a Sieve and pour it into the Ragoo. If
you have a large fat Pullet, or any other tame or wild Fowl,
to be ferv'd up with your Soop, lay it in a convenient Dih,
put the Ragoo to it, and coverit neatly with Rice; leaving a
little Fat on the top, to render it fmooth and caue it to come
to a colour in the Oven ; it mut be ferv'd up hot to Table.
If there be no Fowl at hand, but only a good Loin of Mutton
boil'd, put it in like manner into a Dih, when it is well drefs'd,
and cover it very thick with Rice: Then bread it, or rathes
- G pread
4
=mm imma
/

82 The Court and Country Cook.


fpread on the top of it, fome Far, with Bacon and a few Chip
pings of Bread, to give it a colour.
See under the Letter S a Tail-piece of Salmon ina Cafferole,
and oberve the fame Method in ordering other forts of Fih,
that are to be dreed after the like manner.

C H E E s E - c A K E s.

To make Cheee-cakes, take fome white Cheee that is very


fat, and pound it well in a Mortar with a Lump of Butter as :
big as an Egg, and a little Pepper. When tis well pounded, put
in a handful of Flower, a little Milk and two Eggs, and take
care that this Mixture be not toothin. In the mean while, a fine
Pate is to be made, and mall pieces of it to be roll'd out, ac
cording to the bignes you would have the Cheee-cakes to be
of Put ome of this Farce upon the pieces of Pate rolled out
for the Under-cruft ; raie the fides with three Corners, as it
were in form of a Priet's Cap, and pinch thoe Corners well
with your Fingers, to the end that they may notfall or give wa
as they are baking : Then wah them over with an Egg we
beaten, and fet them into the Oven. They may be ued in gar-
nihing everal Dihes. *,

C H 1 c k E N s.
We are now come to an Article that affords ufficient Materi-
als for the making of a great number of different Side-dihes;
let us then begin with the chief of them.
Chickens with Gammon.
Take Chickens, draw and trus them, but let them not be
fcalded : Cut fome Slices of Bacon for every Chicken, beat them
a little, and feaon them with chopt Parfly andChibbols: Looen
the Skin over the Breat of your Chickens, to let in that Slice
of Gammon, between the Skin and the Fleh, but more epeci
ally take care, that the latter be kept entire. Sindge thena at
the Fire, cover them with a good Bard, or thin Slice of Bacon,
and let them be well roated. When they are done enough,
take off the Bard, pour fome good Gammon-Sauce upon them,
1 ,
and ferve them up hot to
*

. . . - Chickens
The Court and Country Cook. 83

Chickens farced with Oisters.


Take young Chickens, dres them as it were for roafting,and
make a mall Farce to tuff them with, between the Skin and
the Fleh : . To that purpoe get fohne Oifters, a little Veal
fweet-bread, Muhrooms, Truffles, Parly and Chibbols chopp'd,
all well feaon'd and dextrouly tos'd up in a Stew-pan, with a
little Flower and trained Broth. The Chickens mt be farc'd
in the Body, well ried up at both ends, and roated with a Bard
on their Breafts. When they are ready, dres them in a Dih,
pour a mall Cullis of Muhrooms upon them, and ferve them
up hot to Table.
Chickens la Mazarine.

Cut your Chickens, as if it were to make a whire Fricaffy,


and fet them a broiling upon the Coals ; as the broil'd or fried
Pigeons mentioned under the Letter P, with all forts of fine
Herbs: All being well dres'd, let them be neatly breaded and
afterwards broil'd upon a Grid-iron. They may ferve either
for eparate Dihes, or to garnih others, and are fet hot upon
the Table for a Side-dih ; but they are not commonly fry'd, as
Pigeons may be order'd. . Many call thee Chickens, Pigeons
and other Fowls that are dres'd in thismanner,Pieces la Sainte
Menehout. Tis requiite that the Bread, with which Chickens
are breaded, be fine and white, to the end that it may take a
good colour when they are broil'd. -

A Side-dih of Chickens, with a Cullis of Cray-fih.


Take good fat Chickens, ler them be well trus'd and roated:
: If you are defirous to have them broil'd upon the Coals, they
z mut be larded with thick Slips of Bacon and Gammon, accord
y ingly as it hall be judg'd convenient. When they are dres'd
either way, 'ris requiite to have a good Ragoo, made of all
:; forts of Garniture, and well eaon'd, viz. Veal-weet-breads,
4 Truffles, Aparagus-tops and Artichoke-bottoms, according to
the Seafon. As foon as your Ragoo is made ready, the Chickens
are to be put into it, which ought to have their Breats fome
what beaten, to the end that they may imbibe the quinteffence
f the Sauce. Then take ome ci and let all their I
2. C
84 The Court and Country Cook.
be well pounded, but neither their Thighs northeir Tails; be
caue otherwie the Cullis would not be very red. Having pound
ed thee in a Mortar, with a fmall Cruft of Bread, foak them
with fome Gravy, or only the Legs, to the end that the Liquor
may become more reddih. To thicken the Ragoo, prepare a
Bread-cullis, and when all is drefs'd, pour that of the Cray-fih
into it: You may alo add fome Cray-fih-tails, and, if you
pleae, an Anchovie. Take away the Fat from the whole Mes,
and ferve it up to Table.
Chickens la Brochette.

Take Chickens, and cut them in the fame manner as for a


white Fricaffy : Let fome Lard be put into a Stew-pan, with a
little Flower and afterwards the Chickens: When they are well
feaon'd, foak them with good Gravy, and make an end of
ftewing them : Then prepare fome Muhrooms and Truffles, as
alo a Glafs of good Champagne-wine, a few Capers and minc'd
Arichovies. If the Sauce be not fufficiently thicken'd, puta little
good Cullis into it. The Chickens being thus well orderd and
clear'd from the Fat, dres them neatly in a Dih, and pour the
Sauce upon them. Let them be garnih'd with Cutlets, or any
rhing ele, at pleaure, and ferv'd up hot to Table.
Farced Chickens, with a Cullis of Muhrooms.
Take Chickens and trus them well, but do not parboil them.
To makethe Farce, take fome raw Bacon, Marrow, Veal-weet
breads, Truffles, Parly, Chibbols, all forts of fine Herbs, Ca
pons-livers and Muhrooms, all chopt mall, pounded together
and well eaon'd. The fame Farce may ferve for Partridge-pies
and all forts of tuff'd Fowls, that are to be broil'd or roated :
Let the Saucebe thicken'd with twoYolks of Eggs. Roat your
farc'd Chickens, well tied up and cover'd with Paper, and at
lat prepare your Muhroom-cullis, to which ought to be ad
ded a little Gammon, with fome Capers, Truffles and Ancho
vies. Let the Chickens be dres'd in a Dih, with the Cullis
pour'd upon them, and garnih'd with white Bread.
Chickens are likewife farced on their Breats, after having ta
ken out the Fleh, which is to be ued for that purpoe; but .
before they are ferv'd up, they mut be breaded, bak'd and
brought to a fine Colour, |
* kickens
The Court and Country Cook. 85

Chickens la Civette.
Take fat Chickens and trus them well,in ordertoberoated ;
parboil them, and cut of their Legs: Then ler them be steepe
in good Lard, about three or four Hours, with fome Slices of
Chibbol, and eaon'd with all forts of beaten Spice and a little
Salt: Afterwards they mut be roated and bated with the fame
Lard. When they are dreed, put to them a good Ragoo, or
a Muhrooms-cullis, or a Pepper and Vinegar-auce, and let all
beerv'd up hot. The famething may be done for feveral forts
of Fowl and even for fat Pullets la Sainte Menehout.
Chickens drefs'd with Garik.
Lard your Chickens with Bacon in Rows, and roat them,
after having firt tuff'd them with mall pieces of Garlick.
Then make a good Pepper and Vinegar-auce, or a Muhrooma
cullis, or a Ragoo of Truffles, putting a Clove of Garlick into
it, and before the Dih is ferv'd up, fqueez the Juice of two
Oranges into the fame Sauce.

Chickens in a Fricaffy.
Fricaies of Chickens are made with white and red Sauce,
For the latter, let the Limbs of the Chickens be flea'd, and
fry'd with Lard. Then tew them in a little Butter, Broth
or Water, and a Glas of white Wine, eaon'd with Pepper,
Salt, Nutmeg, Chervil chopt very mall and whole Ciboulets.
Make a thickning Liquor, with fome of the fame in which the
Chickens were with a little Flower; putting into it
fome Veal-weet-breads, Muhrooms, Artichoke-bottoms and
other Ingredients. Let them be garnih'd with Fricandoes and
roated Poupiets, or Slices of Lemmon, and ferved up with
Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice.
The Fricaffy of Pullets or Chickens with white Sauceisdrefs'd
with a good Thickening of three or four Yolks of Eggs, and
Werjuice or Lemmon-juice. It may be garnih'd with marinated
Chickens and fried Bread and Parly in th Intervals.
As for the Fricaffy of Chickens with Cream; when they are
dres'd as before, a little of the Fat is to be taken away, and
Cream put to them, as they are erving up to Table,
G 3 A
86 T. Com an Country Cook.

A Side-dih of Chickens la Gibelote.


Take Chickens and cut them as if they were to be fricaffied:
Then put them into a Stew-pan, and eaon them, in the
fame manner as stewd Carps. Let Muhrooms and other Gar
nitures be put to them, with a piece of Lemmon and ome Gra
vy in erving them up to Table. -

Another Side-dih.
Another Side-dih may be made of Chickens larded and roat- -
ed : When they are ready, put them into a Dih ; cut their
Joints and Legs, and pour upon them, a Ragoo of Moufferons,
common Muhrooms, Artichoke-bottoms, Veal-weet-breads,
Capons-livers and Capers.
Chickens drefd la Braife or between two Fires.
Cut your Chickens thro' the Back to the Rump, and feafon
them with Pepper, Salt, Chibbols, Parly chopt very mall and
Coriander. Then let them be laid between thin Slices of Ba
con, with their Breats downwards, and heated, before they
are fet between two Fires; one above and the other under
neath. You may alo add a little Gammon, a piece of Lem
mon and a Faggot of fine Herbs: Chop the raw ammon very
fmall, strew it over your Chickens, and when they are ready,
put their own Gravy them, as alo fome Lemmon-juie
at the very instant of erving them up. Thee Chickens may
alo be farced, before they are drefs'd. -
|
A Side-dih of boned Chickens.
Let the Chickens be farc'd with a good Godivoe, and dres'd
with red Sauce; whilt you are a preparing for them a Ragoo
of Veal-weet-breads, Truffles, Muhrooms and Artichokes cut :
into mall pieces : Let all be well eaon'd and fet out with
Marinades or ome other proper Garniture, and Gravy put to
them, as they are erving up to Table. *

Chicken
s- The Court and Country Cook. F7

Chicken-Filets, for Out-works.


They may be dres'd with white or red Sauce, and a Liquor
to thicken them is to be made of Bread-crum fried in Lard
with fine Herbs, Broth and Lemmon-juice. Let all be train'd
thro' the Hair-fieve, with a little Gravy.
Chickens with Wood-cock Sauce.
They are to be dres'd with reddih-brown Sauce and a little
Liquor to thicken them, or a Cullis of Wood-cocks: Then
add an Anchovie chopt very mall, with a Rocambole, or Clove
of mall Garlick, fome Lemmon-juice and a little Wine. They
are alo us'd for Out-works and Side-dihes, as well as the
following Meffes.
Chickens in Gravy,
They are to be trva sp without being either breaded or
larded, only with a little fine Salt trew'd upon them; and may
be garnih'd with mall Crusts of Bread.. - -

chiciens with Pie-fauce.


Let them be dres'd with brown Sauce, asin a Fricay, anda
chopt Anchovie to them, with a Shalot, a few Capers,
a little Vinegar, black Pepper, and Lemmon-juice, as they ar
ferving up to Table. -

***

Chickens, calld Poulets-mignons, : *.

After having farc'd your Chickens, lard them neatly, and


cover them with a Bard or thin Slice of Bacon, and a Sheet of
Paper. Then roast them on a Spit, and ferve them up, with
good Sauce, , e - "

Chickens drefd after other manners,


Fat Chickens are likewie dres'd with Truffles; others la
Tartre, and others la Polacre, with a Ramolade-fauce. Befides
thee, ther are Marinades of che ; for which fee the Let
4 TET
88 The Court and Country Cook.
ter M, and Chickens in Civet under C, as alo Pies and Potages of
Chickens, which are explain'd elewhere under P, and Chicken
pies, with which we hall conclude this Article.
a chicien-Tourte or Pan-fie.
Take Chickens and cut them as it were for a whire Fri
caffy : Dres them with all forts of good Garnitures, and make
your Pie in the fame manner as that of Pigeons, under the Let
ter P. Let a good Cullis be pour'd in, before it be ferv'd up,
(and let it be well clear'd from the Fat. -

... When young Chickens are in eaon, let them is pickt and
trus'd, as it were for boiling, but they must not be fo much as
parboil'd. Take away the Breat on the fide of the Throat, as
alo all the Bones, if you pleae; but be careful nevertheles to
keep the Skin entire: Take the Fleh with fome pieces of Veal
and chop them together, with a little Bacon, Marrow, Truffles,
Muhrooms, Chibbols and Parfly; the whole Mixture being
well eaon'd and bound with two Yolks of Eggs: Let this
Farce be put into the Skin of the Chickens, that they may ap
las it were quite whole, and let them be calded a little in
Afterwards let them be laid in Pate, with all forts of
proper Garnitures. This Paste, may be made very fine, with
fweet Butter, Flower, Salt and two or three Yolks of Eggs. :
Some call this fort of Pie a Tourte la Paristenne: As for the :
Cullis, it may be prepar'd according to your convenience. When :
the Pie is ready, take away the Fat carefully, and let it be ferv'd :
up hot, garnih'd with its own Crust. .. .

C H 1 T r e R 1 1 N G s, fee Andouilles.
C 1 v e r s.

Side-dihes of Chickens in Civet.


Let your Chickens bebroilda little upon the Coals,and cutinto
Quarters: Then dres them with red Sauce, and put them into
a little Pot with ome Broth, or if that be wanting, with boiling
Water. Pour in as they are boiling, a red thickning Liquor,
a little Wine and a Clove of Garlick, or a Rocambole; alo
fome Lemmon-juice, when they are ferv'd up, and let thembe
garnih'd with Marinade and fried Parly. A
r
The Court and Country Cook. 89

A Hare-Civet.

Take away the Legs and Shoulders entire, and cut the ret
into pieces: Lard them with thick Slips of Bacon, fry them with
Lard, and afterwards boil them with Broth and white Wine, a
i Bunch of fine Herbs, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Bay-leaves and
green Lemmon: Then fry the Liver, and, having pounded it,
rain it thro a Sieve, with fried Flower and a little of rheam
Broth ; putting into ir ome Lemmon-juice and Slices of the
fame.

A Civet of a Hind, Stag or Roe-buck.


Let the Hind or Stag be cur into pieces of the bignes of a
Hare's Shoulder, lard them with thick of Bacon, fry them
as it is expres'd in the preceding Article ; and let them alo
boil after the fame manner. The Sauce is to be thicken'd
with fried Flower and a little Vinegar. -

C o c r s - c o m 8 s.
Beides the great ue of Cocks-combs in the most exquiite
Ragoo's and Bisks, particular Coures are made of them for the
Intermees; more epecially farced Cocks-combs, either alone,
or with Veal-weet-breads, Capons-livers, Morilles and common
Muhrooms. - |

Farced Cocks-combs.
Take fome of the bet and largest Cocks-combs, let them be
arboil'd and afterwards open'd at the thick end, with the Point
of a Knife: Then, having made a Farce with the Breat of a
Pullet or Capon, Beef-marrow, pounded Lard, Pepper, Salt,
Nutmeg and the Yolk of an Egg; fry your Cocks-combs, and
stew them in a Dih, with a little thick Broth and four or five
Muhrooms cut int Slices. To thee add the Yolk of an Egg
raw, and when the Dih is ready to be ferv'd up, fome good -/

Gravy and Lemmon-juice. .

To
9o The Court and Country Cook.

To preferve farced Cocks-combs.


Let them be well cleaned, put into a Por with Lard, and
kept upon the Fire a little while, without boiling: About half
an Hour after, throw in a little fine Salt, an Onion stuck with
Cloves, a Lemmon cut into Slices, fome Pepper and a Glafs of
Vinegar: When the Lard begins to coagulate, take them out,
our in ome melted Butter, and cover them with a Linnen: :
cloth, as it is uually done to other Things that are to be pre
ferved.
C o D - F 1 s H.

It were needles to take any notice of the ordinary ways of


drefing Cod-fih, either freh or alted, as being
known, o that we hall here infist only on what may contribute
to enrich them, and to heighten their Relih; uch are the follow
ing Diretions. -

Freh Cod in a Ragoo.


Scale your Cod, and boil it in Water, with Vinegar, green
Lemmon, a Bay-leaf or two, and Salt: Prepare a Sauce
for it, with burnt Butter, fried Flower, Oisters and Capers;
adding thereto when ferv'd up, ome Lemmon-juice and black
Pepper.
A Cods-tail in a Cafferole.

Take a good Cod's Tail, and having cal'd it,looen the Skin,
fo as it may fall off from the Fleh. Take away the Filets,
fill up the void pace with a good Fih-farce, or with fine Herbs,
Butter and Chippings of Bread. Afterwards put the Skin upon
the Tail again, and having neatly breaded it, fer it into the
Oven, to give it a fine colour. Latly, make a Ragoo for it
with proper Garnitures, and ferve it up to Table.
If you would have it fry'd, it mut be calded in hot Water,
without boiling, to the end that it may remain altogether en
tire, and when 'tis drain'd, it mut be flowerd and fryd in
refined Butter. Let it be ferv'd up with Orange-juice and
white Pepper. It may be garnih'd with fome Pieces taken
off from the Cod's Back put into Pate and fry ; unles
TCil=
The Court and Country Cook. 91

Ordinary be fo mean, as not to afford a eparate Dih of


them. -

C o L L Y - F L o w E R s.

Colly-flowers are uually eaten with Butter, or Mutton gravy.


For the firt Way, when they are well pickt, let them boil in
Water, over a quick Fire, with Salt, Butter and Cloves: Then
let them be well drain'd and put into a Dih, with Butter to
keep them hot. When they are dres'd, make a thick Sauce for
them, with Butter, Vinegar, Salt, Nutmeg, white Pepper and
Slices of Lemmon. -

For the other Way; when your Colly-flowers are boil'd as


before ; tofs them up in a Pan, with Lard, Parfly, Chervil,
- Thyme a whole Chibbol and Salt, and let them foak together. .
: When you would ferve them up, put fome Mutton-gravy into
them, with a little Vinegar and white Pepper. Both thee forts
of Dihes properly belong only to the Intermeffes.
Colly-flowers are alo eaten in a Sallet, and all that has been
faid on this Subjet is fo common, that it ought not be inited
upon ; were it not that our Defign leads us as well to intrut
: the meaner fort of People in what may be ueful, as to hew
- what is uually pratis'd in Noble-mens Kirchens.

C o U R T - B o U I L L o N.
Foramuch as the Court-bouillon is common to many forts of
Fih, the Reader is referr'd to the Articles of Pike and Carp,di
reting what ought to be oberv'd in that way of Dreffing ; to
i the end that unprofitable Repetitions of the fame thing in feve
: ral places may be avoided, as much as is poible.
C R A Y - F 1 s H.

Cray-fih may be dres'd after feveral manners, that is to ay,


they may be put into Ragoos, Hahes, Pies and Sallets ; and
Potages may be made of them, as well for Fleh-days as for
thoe of Abtinence.
. For a Ragoo ; boil your Cray-fih in Wine, Vinegar and
Salt: Then take the Tails; Claws and infide of the Body and
tos them up in a Pan, with burnt Butter, fine Herbs chopt
mall, a piece of green Lemmon, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg
- - -
: lttle
92 The Court and Country Cook.
little fryd Flower; adding ome Muhroom-juice and Lemmon,
when they are ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
A Hah of Cray-fih is to be garnih'd with their Leggs mari
nated and fried, after having taken away the Fleh, and a Ring
or Border may be made with them round about the Dih.
For a Cray-fih Tourte or Pan-pie, ee the Letter T, and Page
41, for a Sallet of the fame Fih; for which, you may make the
Ramolade-fauce there pecified, after having boil'd them in Wine,
with Vinegar, ; Salt, Cloves, Bay-leaves and Chibbols :
They are to be ferv'd up entire with green Parly.
Cray-fih may alo be erv'd up in a Pan, with white Sauce,
in the fame manner as many other Things.

Cray-fih-Potage.
The Broth for this Potage,is that of Fih,which has been alrea
dy decribd. Having boil'd your Cray-fih according to the uuai
Method; take them out,and put all the Tails a-partinto a Stew
pan, with Truffles, Muhrooms, Artichoke-bottoms and Apa
ragus-tops, fuch as are then in feaon: Dres this Ragoo with
freh Butter and a little fine Flower, and lay it a foaking, with
good Fih-broth, or fome other : Afterwards put your Roes
into it, with a Faggot of fine Herbs, all well eaon'd, and let it
boil over a gentle Fire.
To make the Cullis ; all the Thighs and Legs of the Cray-
fih mut be pounded, and train'd thro' a Sieve, with a little
Broth and a mall Cruft of Bread : If you would have the Cul
lis redder, take only the Legs of your Cray-fih, and when all
things are duely prepard, fet them a-part. Some other Cray
fih are likewife to be provided ; leaving their Tails and only
taking the Shells and mall Legs to thicken your Then
take the Fleh of a good Carp, and make a well eaon'd Hah
ofit, which may ferve for the fame Potage. Let it foak with
ood Broth, and if you have a Loaf farc'd with the fame Carp-
f and fome mall Garnitures, they may be opportunely
put into the Potage ; garnihing it with the Cray-fih, dipoing
of your Ragoo round about the Loaf, and foaking it all at once
with the Cullis.
To garnih a Porage of the like nature ; the Shells of the
Cray-fih, may be tuff'd with a good Fih-farce, that is fome
what thick, and flowerd a little. When the Dih is ready to
be fet on the Table, they may be fryd in freh Butter, and erve
to
The Court and Country Cook. 93
-to garnih your Potage, as well as the above-mention'd Mees;
more epecially the
Thus all forts of Cray-fih-potages for Fleh-days, that are
found in this Book, may be eaily prepard, by following what is
even now expres'd in this Article, for what relates to the Cul
lis, without making ue of Gravy or Broth.
i
| C R E A M s.

There are feveral forts of Creams; particularly of Almonds


and Pitachoes, burnt Cream, crackling Cream, fried Cream,
Cream after the Italian Mode and ome others; of which in
their Order. -

Pistachoe-cream.
TakePitachoes well calded,and pound themina Mortar,with
fome candy'd Lemmon-peel, and a little green Lemmon-peel:
When they are well pounded, take as much Flower as you can
get upbetween your Fingers at once or twice, with three or four
Yolks of Eggs: Mix them together in a Stew-pan of the fize
of your Dih, and put ome Sugar therein proportionably, af
terwards pouring in fome Milk by degrees, to the quantity of
omewhat more than a Pint: Then take your pounded Pista
choes, and having temper'd them with the ret, strain all thro'
a Sieve twice or thrice : Let it boil in the fame manner as other
ons of Cream, and when it is ready, pour it into a Dih, to
be kept cold for Intermees. If you would have it ferv'd up
hot, you may, when 'tis cool'd, make a white Ice upon it, and
kritinto the Oven to be dried.

Almond-cream.
. Almon'd-cream is made after the famemanner as the former;
but whenit is to be prepard for Fih-days ; on the Evening be
fore the Collation, after having pounded the Almonds, train
tiem with Water thro' the Sieve, to make Almond-milk; to
Which purpoe, a confiderable quntity of Almonds is requifite.
oon as the Almond-milk is duely prepard, make your
Creams, either of Pitachoes, Chocolate or others, with nothing
little Flower, fome Sugar and Orange-flower-water,with
" Eggs or Milk; only a little Salt and great deal of Sugar.
When
94 The Court and Country Cook.
When the whole Mixture is well boil'd, let it be ferv'd up to
Table, and if you deign to make Pies of it, they are to be
made with crackling Cruft, hereafter decrib'd, and garnih'd
with Savoy-bisket, Meringues, or other Things of the like Na.
LUITC.

Cream after the Italian Mode.


Take about a Pint of Milk, according to the bignes of your
Dih, and boil it with fome Sugar, a mall Stick of Cinnamon,
to give it a good Relih, and a little Salt: Then taking a large
Silver-dih, with a Sieve, put four or five Yolks of new-laid
Eggs into it, and train the Milk and Eggs all at once, three or
four times. Afterwards the Dih is to be fet into a Campain :
or portable Oven, that is very traight, with Fire on the top
and underneath, till the Cream be well coagulated and ready
to be ferv'd up hot. If ome Milk-cream be put into all thee
forts of Creams, it will render them much more delicious,

Pastry-cream.
If you would have a fufficient quantity for everal Coures,
it would be requiite to beat up the Whites and Yolks of a
douzen Eggs, and having put to them, halfa Pound of Flower,
rather more than les, let all be well mixt together; to thee
another douzen of Eggs mut be added and temper'd with the .
ret. At the fame time, take about five Pints of Milk and put
it into a Pan of a proportionable bignes, to be boil'd: When it
begins to boil, turn the whole Mixture into it, and let it be
continually tirr'd : Then having added a little Salt, about half
a Pound of Butter, and a little white Pepper, let it be well ,
boil'd, but take care that it do not stick to the bottom. Your -
Cream being thus thicken'd and duely prepar'd, pour it into a- .
nother Pan and let it cool therein. When you have a mind to
make Pies or Tarts of it, take as much as is requiite, accord-
ing to the bignes you would have them to be of, and put it in:
to another Pan : Let it be well mixt with the Spatula, and add .
thereto fome Sugar, with Lemmon-peel cut mall, both green
and candy'd, a little Orange-flower-water, fome Yolks of Eggs,
and on Fleh-days, fome Beef-marrow or fried Beef-ewet.
The whole Mixture being well train'd and cleard, make your
Pies of Puff-pate, with a little Border round about, and pour .
- . - Hi
The Court and Country Cook. 95
in your Cream. . When thoe Pies or Tarts are almot baka,
they must be iced, and ferv'd up for Intermees. On Fih-days,
melted Butter is generally us'd intead of Beef-marrow.
Burnt Cream.

Take four or five Yolks of Eggs, according to the bignes of


your Dih or Plate ; and beat them well in a Stew-pan, with as
much Flower as you can take up between ! Fingers ; pour
ingin Milk by degrees to the quantity of about a Quart: Then
putinto it a mall Stick of Cinnamon, with fome green Lem
mon-peel cut mall and likewife fome candy'd. ange-peel
may alo be minc'd as that of Lemmon, and then 'tis call'd
Burnt Cream with Orange. To render it more delicious, pound
ed Pistachoes or Almonds may be added, with a little Orange
fower-water. Then fet your Cream upon the Furnace, and
stirit continually, taking care that it do not tick to the bottom.
When it is well boil'd, fet a Dih or Plate upon a Furnace,
and having pour'd the Cream into it, let it boil again, till you
perceive it to stick to the fide of the Dih: Then it being fet
afide, and well fugar'd on the top, befides the Sugar that is
put into it; take the Fire-hove heated red-hot, and at the
fametime, burn the Cream with it, to give it a fine Gold-co
lour, To garnih it make ue of Feuillantins fmall Fleurons or
Meringues, or other cut Patry-works of crackling Crut. Ice
ream if you pleae, or elfe let it be erv'd up otherwie,
ut always among the Intermees.

Crackling Cream.
Take a Dih with four or five Yolks of Eggs, according to
the quantity of Cream you would have prepared : Beat up
thee Yolks with a Spoon, and as you are working them, pour
in ome Milk by degrees, till the Dih be almot full : Then
ome raped Sugar mut be put into it with Lemmon-peel, and
the Dih being fet upon a , the Liquor is to be conti
nually stirr'd about with a Spoon, till the Cream begins to be
made. Afterwards having caus'd the Heat of the Furnace fome
what to abate, till keep ftirring the Cream without intermif
fion, and turn it upon the fides of the Dih, fo as very little or
none may remain in the bottom, and that a Border may be
formd round about ; Care mut be taken that it be not burnt
- to,
96 The Court and Country Cook,
to, but only continue sticking to the Dih, When it is ready,
you may give it a fine colour, with the red-hot Fire-hovel, and
with the Point of a Knife, looen the whole Border, that it may
remain entire : Let it be put again into the fame Dih, and
fomewhat more dried in an Oven, fo as very little be left in
the Dih, and that it crackle in the Mouth. This fort of Cream
is often ferv'd up to the Duke of Chartres Table.

- Virgin-cream.
Having taken five Whites of Eggs, let them be well whipt
and put into a Pan, with Sugar, Milk and Orange-flower-wa
ter: Then fet a Plate upon the Furnace, with a little Cinna
mon, and pour in your Cream that is well beaten, and which,
when made, may be brought to a colour by paffing the red
hot Fire-hovel over it.

Fried Cream.

Take about a of Milk, and let it boil upon the Fire,


putting into it four beaten Yolks of Eggs with a little Flower :
Stir all together over the Furnace, till the Cream be made, ad.
ding a little Salt, a mall Lump of Butter and fome minc'd :
Lemmon-peel:, When your Cream is ufficiently boil'd, pour .
it into a flowerd Dih, o as it may pread it felf, and that, when
cool'd, it may become as it were a fried Omelet or Pan-cake:
Cut it into pieces, of what thicknes you hall think fit, and fry
them with good Lard ; taking care that they do not fquirt in
the When they are colour'd, take them out, trew
them with fine Sugar, and prinkle them with Orange-flower *,
.

water: Dres them in a Dih, and having ic'd them (if you
leae) with the red-hot Fire-hovel, let them be ferv'd up :
ot. Otherwie, when this fort of Cream is pread in a Diffi
upon the Dreffer, you may put ome Butter into a Frying-pan,
and fry it in the fame manner as an Omelet. As foon as it is
colour'd on one fide, turnit upon the Dih, and let it flip thence
gently into the Frying-pan to give it the like colour on both
fides. Then it may be fugard, ic'd and ferv'd up hot among
the Intermees. -

To render all forts of Creams more delicious, instead of or


dinary Flower, that of Rice may be us'd, which is much better :
for that purpoe, and good Creams may be made even altho' no
Eggs
The C7 and C75 E 97

Eggs were put therein, viz. with Milk, if they are to be eaten
with Butter, and with Almond-milk, if eaten only with Oil.
A Quart of Milk mut always be reduc'd to a Pint, in the boil-
ing, to the end that the Flower may not be tated.
Chocolate-cream.

Take a Quart of Milk with a quarter of a Pound of Sugar,


and boil them together for a quarter of an Hour: Then purone
beaten Yolk of an Egg into the Cream, and let it have three or
four Walms: Take it off from the Fire, and mix it with fome
Chocolate, till the Cream has affumd its colour. Afterwards
you may give it three or four Walms more upon the Fire, and,
having train'd it thro' a Sieve, dres it at pleaure.
Sweet Cream,

Take three Quarts of Milk newly milk'd from the Cow, and
let it boil; but when it ries, take it off from the Fire, and let
it lye by a little while. Then take off all the Cream that ap
pears on the top, to be put into a Plare; fet the Pan or Skillet
again upon the Fire ; and continue to do the fame thing, till
your Plate be full offuch Cream. Afterwards put fome cented
Waters into it, and forget not to fugar it well, before it is ferv'd
up to Tabe.
irhie and light cream.
Take three Gallons of Milk, with half a quarter of a Pound
of Sugar, and let it boil half a quarter of an Hour: Then take
it off from the Fire, and put in two Whites of Eggs well whipt,
ftirring all together without intermiion. Set your Milk or
Cream upon the Fire again, and let it have four or five Walms,
continually whipping it. Afterwards you may dres it as you ,
pleae; prinkling it, as foon as it is cold, with Orange-flower
water, and trewing it with fine Sugar. . It may alo be brought
to a colour, with the red-hor Fire-hovel.
Cinnamon-cream is made after the fame manner, as that of
Chocolate. - . -

As for the Sauces with Cream, fee the Articles of Artichokes,


Aparagus,Muhrooms,&c. as alo the Omelets, with Cream offe
veral forts, and other Mees mentioned in the General
-
T : R E
98 The Court and Country Cook.
C R E P 1 N a s.

Take ome part of a Filler of Veal, with a piece of Bacon,


and let them be parboil'd together in a Por : When they are
cold, mince them with Leaf-fat out of a Belly, Chibbols,
two or three Rocamboles and other eafoning Ingredients.
Then beat them all in a Mortar, with a little Cream or Milk,
and ome Yolks of Eggs, and put this Farce into Veal-cauls af
ter the manner of white Puddings. They are uually bak'd in
a Tourtiere or Pie-pan, in an Oven moderately heated, and
brought to a fine Colour ; to be ferv'd up for the Out-works of
Side-dihes.

C R o Q U E 'r s.
Croquets are a certain Compound made of a delicious Farce,
fome of the bignes of an Egg and others of a Walnut. The
firt fort may be us'd for Side-dihes, or at leat for Out-works,
and the others only for garnihing. To that purpoe, take the
Breats of large fat Pullets, Chickens and Partridges, and mince
this Meat with fome Bacon, Calves-udder, Veal-weet-breads,
all parboil'd, Truffles, Muhrooms, Marrow, the crummy part
of a Loaf, steept in Milk, and all forts of fine Herbs, as alo
a little Cream-cheee, and as much Milk-cream, as hall be "

judg'd : When the whole Mixture is well minc'd and


eaon'd, et four or five Yolks of Eggs be put into it, and
one or two Whites. With this Farce, the Croquets are to be
formd of a round Figure, then roll'd in a beaten Egg, breaded
at the fame time, and fet by in a Dih, in order to be fried
afterwards with weet Lard, and ferv'd up hot to Table. The
fame Farce may alo erve to tuff Fricandoes or Scotch-Collops,
and for the Filets-Mignons hereafter-mention'd.
As for the leffer Croquets, they may be made with the fame
Farce, or with any other that is omewhat delicious and thick,
and are uually dipt into a certain Pate or Batter, like thar of
Apple-fritters, before they are fried: They may alo be Flow |
er'd or breaded, to garnih all forts of Dihes, in which there are
any Services of wild Fowl, and ought always to be ferv'd u
hot to Table. N S

CU
The Court and Country Cook. 99

C U C U M B E R s.

Cucumbers are uually farced to tuff great Joints of Beef,


as it has been already oberv'd, and are alo dres'd after feve
ral other manners, particularly la Matelotte, and in a Sallet :
Potages are often garnih'd with them ; Filets of Cucumbers
are ometimes prepard, and they are one of the principal Ingre
dients of the Salpicon. We have elewhere explain'd what re
lates to the Cucumber-Filets, and the Salpicon fhall be decribd
in its proper Place. Therefore it will be ufficient here to give
fome account of the farced Cucumbers and of thoe la Mate
lotte ; in regard that all the ret may be very eaily prepar'd;
uch as Potages, Sallets and Legs of Mutton with Cucum- :
bers.

s Farced Cucumbers.

Take Cucumbers, fuch as are not too thick, let them be clear
par'd from their Seeds and kept whole. In the mean while, a
Farce is to be prepar'd of all forts of Fowl, and if you pleae, a
of Veal, all well minc'd, with fome parboil'd Bacon, a
ittle tried Fat, fomeboil'd Gammon chopt, Muhrooms, Truffies
and all frts of fine Herbs; the whole Mixture being well
minc'd and eaon'd. Then your Cucumbers, being fcalded a
little while, are to be stuff'd with this Farce, and boil'd in good
Gravy or fat Broth, but not too much. Having taken them
out, let them be cut into two pieces and fet by to cool, whilt
a fort of Paste or Batter is preparing, as it were for Apple-frit
te : This Paste is to be e o Flower mis wf white
Wine or Beer, a little melted Lard and fome Salt. Afterwards
certain mall Skewers are to be neatly cut out,of the bignes of a
writing Pen, and the pieces of Cucumbers are to be pierc'd thro'
with them,o as all the ends may be on one fide that they may be
conveniently thrut into a piece of Beef. The Cucumbers are to
be dipt in the faid Pate, and brought to a fine Colour with
melted Lard, and the piece of Beef being-dres'd with a Gam
mon-hah, and the Marinades put upon it, is to be tuff'd with
thee farced Cucumbers. If there be any Farce left, you may
roll it up, with your Fingers dipt in Flower, and make round
pieces of the thicknes of an Egg, which are to be boil'd at the
fame time with the Cucumbers; but very gently, that the
* H 2 Farce
N

I o The Court and Country Cook.


Farce may hold together : They mut alo be fried in the fame
Irlann CT. ,

Cucumbers drefi'd la Matelotte, or after the Sea-fahion.


They are to be farced as the former, and boid in good Gra
vy: Take care that the Fat be well taken away, and that too
much Sauce be not put to them: Then thicken them with fome
good Cullis and pour in a little Vinegar, before they are ferv'd
up hot to Table : They ought to be all of a fine red Colour.
S Farced Cucumbers are alo put into a Ragoo and white
BallCC.

To preferve Cucumbers.
Take the bet fort of Cucumbers, that are not too ripe, and
fet them in good Order in a Pail, earthen Pan, or fome other
Vefel, in which is put an equal quantity of Water and Vine
ar, with fome Salt; fo as they may be thoroughly steept :
hey mut be well cover'd, and not touch'd for the pace of a
whole Month. Thus when Cucumbers are outof Seafon, thee
may be us'd, after they have been well par'd and foak'd. If you
would garnih Potages with them, they mut be fealded; alo
when they are us'd for Filets,as well on Days of Abtinence as on
Fleh-days, they mut be cut after the uual manner, and dres'd,
as if they were freh. Indeed they will be of greatue through
out the whole Winter, and during the time of Lent. To thoe
that are to be eaten in a Sallet, # Pepper is uually added,
with fome Handfuls of Salt, and they may be tuck with Cloves
at leaft one for every Cucumber. They are commonly caird
Girkins or pickled Cucumbers ; and to this purpoe, the leffer
fort is to be chofen, uch as grow in the latter Seaon. They
are generally pickled with the Stalks or Leaves of Purlane, and
more epecially with Samphire, which ferves intead of weet
Herbs that fort of Sallet. -

C u 1 I -
\

The Court and Country Cook. toi


C u l l i s + s.
A Cullis for different Potages on Fleh-days.
This fort of Cullis may ferve for feveral mall Potages on
Fleh-days, particularly, of Profitrolles, Partridges, Quails,Larks,
Wood-cocks and Teals; all which may be garnih'd with Fri
candoes and Veal-weet-breads. To make this Cullis, take a
of Buttock-beef, and having caus'd ir to be roated very
rown, let all the brownet part of it be pounded hot in a Mor
tar, with Crufts of Bread, the Carcaffes of Partridges and of o
ther Fowls that are at hand. The whole Mas being well pound
ed and foak'd with good Gravy, put it into a Stew-pan with
Gravy and trong Broth, and eaon it with Pepper,Salt, Cloves,
Thyme, weet Bafil and a piece of green Lemmon. Let it
have four or five Walms, train it thro' the Hair-fieve, and
make ue of it to be pour'd upon your Potages with Juice of
Lemmon. -

A Gammon-cullis,
Take one half Veal and the other Gammon, put it into a
Stew-pan and order it, without Lard, as if it were for Veal
gravy: When it is ufficiently boil'd, add thereto fome dry
Crufts, Chibbol, Parly, weet Bafil and Cloves, with the bet
fort of Broth : Let it be well feaon'd, train'd thro' a Sieve
and kept omewhat thick. - - -

A Capon-cullis.
Take a roated Capon, and pound it in a Mortar, as much
asis poible: Then fry fome Cruts of Bread in Lard, and
when they are become very brown, put to them fomeChibbol,
Parfly, weet Bail, and a few Moufferons well chopt : Mix
thee with the ret, and make an end of drefing them over the
Furnace. Afterwards pour in as much of the bet Broth, as you
fhall judge requiite, and trainit thro' the Hair-feve.

H; . 4
1o2 -777 ; Country Cook.

A Partridge-cullis.
Take two roasted Partridges, and pound them well in a Mor
tar, with the Birds or thin Slices of Bacon with which they
were dres'd : Then taking as many green Truffles as you can
get up between your Fingers, with the like quantity of Muh
rooms, fry them in Lard with fine Herbs, Chibbol, weet Ba
fil and Marjoram: Afterwards mix your pounded Meat toge
rher in the fame Stew-pan, with two good Spoonfuls of Veal
gravy; let them foak over a gentle Fire, and train them thro'
the Sieve with Lemmon-juice. -
-

A Cullis of Ducks.
Take a roated Duck, and let it be well pounded in a Mor
tar: Then caue fome Gammon to be fried brown in a Silver
dih, and put it into a Pot, with a Handful of Lentils to be
ftew'd all together; adding two or three Cloves, a Clove of
Garlick, ome Savoury and Chibbol: When they are all
boil'd, pound them with the Duck-meat, and dres them in a
Pan with Lard, as alo afterwards with clear Broth, to the :

end that your Cullis may come to a lively fair colour : Latly,
let it be train'd thro' the Hair-fieve with Lemmon-juice, and
kept for ufe. -

A culis of large Pigeons.


Let two or three large Pigeons be roated, and pouned in
a Mortar: Then mince three Anchovies, with as many Capers
as can be taken up between your Fingers, a few Truffles and
Morilles, two or three Rocamboles, fome Parly and Chibbols
all chopt very mall; mix them with the Pigeon-meat, and fry
them in a Pan, with Lard : Let fome of the best Gravy that
you have be put thereto, strain it thro a Sieve with the Juice
of a Lemmon, and keep it as thick as you hall think fit.
A Cullis made with the Breast of a fat Pullet,
Take the Breat of a large fat Pullet, with a piece of Veal
boil'd very white and pound them in a Mortar: Then provide
a quarter of a Pound of weet Almonds, which are likewie to
be
The Court and Country Cook. IO ;
be pounded together, with the crummy part of a white Loaf
foak'd in good Broth made of the Pullet's Bones, that was
pounded before. The fame Broth may be us'd to lay the Meat
and Almonds a foaking in a Stew-pan, giving them a Walm
or two. In training it thro' the Sieve, a little Milk or Cream
may be put to it, to render it white, and care mut be taken,
that it do not turn as it is heating.

A white cui for Fih-dy.


Take as many Almonds, as you hall judge requiite, and
pound them in a Mortar: You are alo to provide fome Bread
crum foak'd in Cream or Milk, and fome Fih-Filets, dres'd as
white as is poible. Add thereto fome freh Moufferons, white
Truffles, weet Bafil and Chibbols, and take fome of the clearet
Broth you can get, to boil all for the pace of one quarter of an .
Hour. Afterwards this Cullis is to be train'd thro' the Hair-fieve
and may ferve for all forts of Mees that require white Broth.
s Other Cullifes for Fih-days.
Some Onions and Carrets are to be fried as it were for a fort
of Broth, and when they are turn'd brown,ler a Handful of Par
fy be thrown in, with a little Thyme, weet Bafil, Cloves,
of Bread, Fih-broth and a little Vinegar.
|

A Culis of Roots. -

Take Carrets,Parly-roots,Parneps and Onions cut into Slices,


tosthem up all for a little while in a Stew-pan, and pound them
in a Mortar, with a douzen and half of Almonds and a
of Bread-crum foak'd in good Peas-foop : Let the whole Mix
ture be boil'd in a Pan, and well feafon'd as the others. Then
strain it hot thro' the Sieve, and make ufe of it for all the Po
tages of white Onions, Leeks, Cardoons and Goats-bread that
fried, marinated, or put into Pate; as alo for the Potage of
kirrets. * - .

A Callis of Lentils." o

| Take fome Crusts of Bread,Carrets Parsteps,Parly-roots and


Onionscut into Slices,fried in Qil or very hot Butter. If it be for
} H 4 - Fleh
/
1c4 The Court and Country Cook.
Fleh-days, you may put thereto fome burnt Lard, and throw
in your Pule and Crums of Bread. Let all be fried brown, till
that which ticks to the bottom of the Pan becomes very red:
Then put fome Lentils therein, with Broth, and let it be well
feaon'd. When it has had four or five Walms, with a piece
of Lemmon, let it be train'd thro' a Sieve; o that it may
ferve for Lentil-potages, Crufts farced with the fame, Crufts
farced with Pike and Lentils, and feveral others; as Soles, Qua
vivers, Carps, &c. On Fleh-days 'twill alo be of good ue
for Potages of Pigeons, Ducks, Partridges, &c.
There are alo many other forts of Cullies, that are made
for different Things; as Cullies of Anchovies, Carps, Truffles,
Moufferons, Morilles, common Muhrooms, Peas, Yolks of Eggs,
and others that may be found y
means of the General Table
of the Meffes, at the end of this Volume, i -

C u r L e r s.
Farced Cutlets.

Take a Quarter of Mutton or Veal, and boil it in a Pot


with good Broth : Then take it out and cut off all the Fleh,
keeping the Bones of the Cutlets or mall Ribs. This Fleh
ferves to make a Farce, with Bacon, Calves-udder
boil'd, a little Parfly and Chibbol, Muhrooms and Truffles, all
chopt rogether, and pounded in a Mortar, with the neceary
Spices and eaoning Ingredients ; alo the Crum of a Loaf
foak'd in Milk or Gravy,and a little Milk-cream. Let the whole
Farce be thicken'd with the Yolks of Eggs, o as it may not be
too liquid. Then take Bards or broad Slices of Bacon according
to the bignes of your Cutlets ; put fome of this Farce upon
thoe Bards, with the Bones of the Cutlets, and do the fame
rhing to every Cutler which is to be made round, with a Knife
fteept in whipt Eggs, as if it were a real Cutler. After
wards they are to be wah'd over_and breaded on the Top,
and when put in good Order in a Baking-pan, they are to be
fet into the Oven, to give them a fine colour. Thee ar
call'd Farced Cutlets, with Cream, and may ferve to garnih all
forts of Side-dihes and for Out-works.
" Veal-Cutlets farced with nothing but Fennel are likewife in
ue, and fome Gravy is to be put in the bottom of the Dih, as
they are erving up----
to Table for Out-works,
, *- , - : * Ano=
The Court and Country Cook. , 1o5

Another Side-dih of Cutlets.


Take the Cutlets of Veal or Mutton, that are very tender
and well cut ; lard them with thin Slips of young Bacon, as ir
wer Fricandoes, and dres them in the fame manner; feaon
ing them, as much as is needful. If thee Cutlets ferve for a
eparate Dih, all forts of Garnitures ought to be put to them ;
but if they are to be us'd only for the garnihing of fome other
Side-dih, it would be only requifite to tew them in their own
Gravy; becaue a particular Ragoo is to be pour'd upon the
Mes in the middle of the Dih, - -

Cutlets in Haricot ahd otherwife.


Mutton-curlets may be in Haricot, with tew'd Turneps, and
a well-eaon'd Liquour to thicken them, as they are drefing:
Some Chenuts may be added, before they are prepar'd for
Out-works. As foon as they are dres'd, they may alo be
steept in Lard, breaded and broil'd upon the Grid-iron; putting
to them fome good Gravy and Lemmon-juice, when ready to
be ferved up. Otherwie they ma be marinated, fried till the
come to a fine colour and garnih'd with fried Parfly ; or elfe
a good Cullis and Gravy may be pour'd on them, with a piece
#Lemmon and Truffles; o as they may be laid a foaking to
gether for a while, and om Lemmon-juice fqueez'd in, as
they are ferving up to Table. - -

D.
- N

D A B s or S A N D L 1 N G s.

A Side-dih of a marinated Dab.


LE: your Dab be cut thro the Back, to the end that the Ma
rinade may penetrate it, and when it is ufficiently pickled
let it be well breaded with Bread-crum and eaon'd Chippings:
- let it be bak'd and garnih'd with Petits-patez or little
1CS.

- A
16 The Court and Country Cook.

A Dab or Sandling in a Sallet.


Boil this Fih in a Court-bouillon, and when it is cold, cutit
into Filets ; with which, and ome mall Sallet-herbs, you are
to dres a Plate; eaoning them, with Pepper, Salt, Vinegar
and Oil: Or elfe you may make the Ramolade-fauce, mention'd
Pag. 41. and ferve them up for Intermees.
Other manners of dreffing Dabs.
If you have no other Dih with white Sauce, leave your
Dab entire, and let it be ferv'd up hot with white Sauce and
Cream, for a Side-dih. Sometimes they are drefs'd in Fileti,
with Anchovie-fauce, and in a Court-bouillon, to be ferv'd up,
when cold, upon a Napkin for Intermees; and they may allo
be put into a Pie, as the Turbots, but they ought not to take
up fo long time in Baking. . - -

- D A U B E s.

We have already explain'd the manner of preparing a Fih


Daube, under theSecond Article of Carp, let us now few how
it ought to be order'd for Fleh. - -

A Danie faza frui.


Having taken of the Skin from the Leg, let it be parboil'd,
larded with mall Slips of Bacon, and teept in white Wine,
with Verjuice, a Faggot of fine Herbs, Pepper, Salt, a Bay: ,
leaf or two and Cloves: Then let it be roated, and -

with the fame Wine, Verjuice and a little Broth. When it is


ready, make Sauce for it, with the Dripping, a little fried Flow-
er, Capers, Slices of Lemmon, Muhroom-juice and an Ancho
vie, and let your Leg of Veal foak therein for fome time, be
it is ferv'd up to Table; which may be done for a Side-
ih. * -

A Leg of Mutton may be dres'd in a Daube after the fam


ManilET, -

Druhet
The Court and Country Cook. 167
Daubes of green Geefe and others.
: Let your Geeebelarded with middle-fizd Slipsof Bacon; ea
fon'd with Pepper,Salt,Cloves,Nurmeg,Bay-leaves Chibbols and
green Lemmon; and wrapt up in a Napkin: Then let them
be boil'd in a Pot, with Broth and white Wine, and left till
they are half cold, in their own Broth ; in order to be ferv'd
up to Table upon a Napkin, with fome Slices of Lemmon.
In like manner, you may dres Turkeys, fat Capons, Par
tridges and other forts of Fowl.
D E E R.

The Manner of Dreffing it.


: If you would have it roated, let ir be larded with thick
Slips of Bacon, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt and beaten Cloves,
and steept in Vinegar, with Bay-leaves and Salt: Then let it
beroasted by a gentle Fire and well bated : When it is ready,
ut ome Anchovies, Capers, Shalots cut mall, and green
| Lemmon into the Sauce, which may be thicken'd with fried
Flower. It may likewife be larded with mall Slips of young
Bacon, and put into a Marinade, with five or fix Cloves of
Garlick: Let it be roated, cover'd with Paper, and eaten with
Pepper and Vinegar. - - -

The Fawn of a Deer may be dres'd after the fame manner,


that the Marinade or Pickle for it, ought not to be fo
trong.
You may alo prepare for a great Dih ; the Leg of a Fawn,
with the Rump, one half larded and the other breaded, gar
nih'd, with Petits-patez or little Pies, and having Vinegar and
Pepper for Sauce; of which fee an Example, Pag. 16. Or elfe
4 being larded with thin Slips of Bacon, it may be eaten, with
weet-four Sauce made of the Dripping, Sugar, Cinnamon,
white Pepper, green Lemmon, a little Salt, fried Flower and a
minc'd Shalot: Let all be boil'd over a gentle Fire, with Cla
} retor Vinegar; let the Fawn be turn'd therein, from time to
time, to take the whole relih ; and let fome Capers be added,
isitis erving up to Table. *

D u c k s.
18 The Court and Country Cook.

- D U c k s.

Potages are fometimes made with Ducks; they are alo


roated and ferv'd up with Sauce, and dres'd after everal other
manners, of which thee that follow, are mot remarkable.
To dref, Ducks with Oiffers.
Take wild Ducks, let them be well trus'd; and make a
Ragoo, with Veal-weet-breads, Truffles and Oiters, eaon'd
with fine Herbs, chopt Parfly and Chibbols: Care mut beta
ken that this Ragoo be fomewhat thick; but 'tis no matter
whether it be red or not: When it is almot ready, the Ducks
mut be farced with it, well ty'd up, and roated a little while.
Afterwards a Muhroom-cullis, or Sauce after the Spanih Mode,
fuch as is uually made for, Partridges, may be pour'd upon
them, and they are to be ferv'd up hot, for a Side-dih, Other
forts of Water-fowl may be dres'd in the fame manner.
Other Side-dihes of Ducks.
A Ragoo may be prepar'd for them, with Veal-weet-breads,
Artichoke-bottoms, Truffles, Muhrooms, a Clove of Garlick, a .
little Vinegar and a Bunch of fine Herbs ; and they may be
garnih'd with Fricandoes, and Lemmon-juice, before they are
ferv'd up to Table.
At another time, when your Ducks are roated, cut them into
Filets, and put them into a Ragoo of Cucumbers, with Rocam
boles, Lemmon-juice and a little Vinegar; o as they may be
ferv'd up for Out-works. - |

Ducks may be alo dres'd in a Ragoo; and Turneps boil'd


with them, may ferve for their Garniture.
Potages of Ducks.
Ducks may be us'd in Potages with Peas, a Cullis of Lentils,
Cabbage, Turneps and other Roots: But foramuch as this is
common to them, with feveral other Meffes, a particular Enu-
meration of which, would lead us too far and eyen to little pur
oe out of the Way; the Reader is referr'd to the repective
'otages ofthoe diferent forts of Pul under the Letter P. where
- he
The Court and Country CT- Io9

he may find general Intrutions, as to what ought to be ob


erv'd, with repet to all forts of Wild-fowl and Poultry; for
the avoiding of tedious Repetitions: So that this one Intance
may be his fature Direction, whenever any Matters hall occur
of the like Nature.
See likewie under the Article of Pies, what relates to thoe
of Ducks, as well hot as cold.
S B A - D U c k s.

They may be put into a Daube, after the very fame manner
as green Geee or Ducks, and being well dres'd, may be ferv'd
up to Table, upon a white Napkin, garnih'd with Parfly and
Slices of Lemmon. -

A Side-dih may alo be made of them, with Cucumbers,


as well as many others, or ele they may be dres'd after the
following manners.
A Sea-duck in a Court-bouillon.
- /

After having pickt and drawn your Sea-duck, let it be lard


ed or tuff'd, with thick Slips of Eel-fleh, and boil'd four or
five Hours over a gentle Fire, in Water, with Pepper, Salt, a
Bunch of Herbs, a Bay-leaf or two, Cloves, a little white Wine
and a Lump of Butter: Then a Sauce for it, with na
tural Butter, fine Flower, white Pepper, Salt, green Lemmon
and Vinegar, and let the bottom of the Dih, in which it is
dresd, be rubb'd with a Shalot. -

A Sea-duck with Chocolate in a Ragoo.


Having pickt, cleans'd and drawn your Sea-duck, as before,
let it be wah'd, broil'd a little while upon the Coals, and after
Wards put into a Pot; feaoning it with Pepper, Salt, Bay
kaves and a Faggot of Herbs. Then a little is to be
made and added thereto; preparing at the fame time a Ragoo
with Capons-livers, Morilles, Moufferons, common Muhrooms,
Truffles and a quarter of a hundred of Chenuts. When the
Xa-duck is ready dres'd in its proper Dih, pour your Ragoo
"Ponit ; garnih it with what you pleae, and let it be ferv'd
up to Table, - -

A
I IO The Court and Country Cook.

A Sea-duck in Haricot.

Let it be dres'd as before, and let a Ragoo of Turneps b:


made, which are to be fried fomewhat brown: Then let all b:
foakd with the Sauce of your Sea-duck, which, when ready
must be cut into pieces and laid upon the Turneps. Lastly
let it be prepar'd and ferv'd up to Table at a convenient time,
garnih'd, as you hall think fit, -

Sea-ducks in a Pot-pourri or Hotch-potch.


Lard your Sea-ducks with thick Slips of Eels-fleh, and
tos them up in a Pan with burnt Butter : Then put them into
a Pot or Earthen Pan, with a little of the fame Butter, Flower
and Water, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves, Muh
rooms a Faggot of Herbs and green Lemmon : Let them boilo.
ver a gentle Fire,during four or five Hours,as it were in a Court
bouillon, and when you would have it ferv'd up, add ome
Oiters, Capers and Lemmon-juice.
A roasted Sea-duck. *

Let the Sea duck be bafted as it is roating, with Butter and


Salt,and then let a Sauce be made for it with the Liver; which
is to be minc'd very mall and put into the Dripping,with Pep
per, Salt, Nutmeg, Muhrooms and Orange-juice.
A Sea-duck Pie.

Take Sea-ducks that are well pickt and trufs'd, let thembe
beaten a little on the Breats, broil'd on the Coals and tied up at
the ends. Take the Liver, with fome minc'd Truffles, Muh
rooms, Parfly and Butter, a few Chibbols and Capers, with an
Anchovie; all being well chopt, enrich'd and eaon'd: Then
the Body of the Sea-duck is to be tuff'd with this Farce, and
a little of the fame kept, to be put underneath. In the mean
while, roll out your Pate for the Under and Upper-cruts, and
let the Pie be bakd when fill'd with the Sea-ducks. If you
would have it ferv'd up hot, a good Ragoo mut be made with
Carps-roes, Cray-fih-tails, Muhrooms and Truffles, or one of
Oiters; but if it be deign'd for a cold standing D aWC
TFC T country Cook. III

have no more to do, but to let it cool after it is bak'd, and to


fetit on the Table, as you hall find an occafion,
Potage of Sea-ducks. G

As for the Potages of Sea-ducks; 'tis requiite that they be


boil'd with good Fih-broth, and afterwards laid a foaking with
the fame. Then a good Fih-hah is to be prepard, to be pour'd
upon the Sea-ducks, as oon as they are put into the Soop,
which has been ufficiently foak'd. Let them be garnih'd with
Sole-Filets, Whitings, Cray-fih, or other forts of Fih; with
a well eaon'd Ragoo, and a good Cullis of Cray-fih or Muh
rooms. Thee are all to be ferv'd up hot, and Potages may
be made of Sea-ducks with Lentils.
*

E.

E A R s.

Calves-ears farced.
Calves-ears farced are commonly us'd for Intermees; to
which purpoe, ome entire Ears are to be well calded or par
boil'd a little: Then a good thick Farce being made, tuff the
Infides of them, and fow them up neatly round about: They
are to be boil'd, as Pigs-pertitoes, la Sainte Menehout, and
unow'd, when ready, but fo as the Farce may not fall out. , Af
terwards, roll them up in Eggs lightly whipt, bread them at the
ame time, fry them in Lard, as it were Croquets, and garnih
them with fried Parfly.

. Hogs-ears.
Hogs-ears may be dres'd with Herb-Robert Sauce, after
they are cut into Slices, and fried in a Pan with a little Butter.
You must alo fry in the fame Butter fome Chibbols cut very
mall, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Vinegar, Capers
and a little Broth, and when you would have them ferv'd up,
add ome Mutard: The fame Slices may be put into Pate,fried
and fet en the Table with white Pepper and Lemmon-juice.
L For $ Souce of Hogs-ears and Feet, fee he lat Article of the
Etter S, -- . - -

E E L S.
1 12 The Court and Country Cook." -

E L s. .

* How to farce them.


, The Bones of Eels may be farc'd in form of a white Pudding:
To that purpoe, a good Godivoe is to be made with the Fleho
the Eels, which you mut pound in a Mortar, mixing with it
fome Cream, Bread-crum, two or three Rocamboles and halfa
Clove of Garlick: When the Godivoe is well eafon'd, farce
your Bones neatly with it, bread them well with Bread-crum,
and bake them in a Pie-pan, till they come to a fine colour.
Eels with white Sauce.
When the Eels are skinn'd, cut them into pieces, and let
them be calded in boiling Water : As foon as they are dried
with a Napain, tos them up in a Pan, with natural Butter,
and tew them with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, a Bay-leaf
and a piece of Lemmon ; fome add a Glafs of white Wine to.
thee f In like manner dres fome Artichoke-bot
roms, Muhrooms and Aparagus-tops, with weet Butter and
fine Herbs, and make a white Sauce, with the Yolks of Eggs
and Verjuice ; accordingly, as the time will allow it, or when
they are ready to be fet on the Table: Let them be garnih'd
with fried Bread and Slices of Lemmon, and ferv'd up with the
Juice of the fame.
Eil, with brown Sauce.
Let them be tos'd up in a Stew-pan with burnt Butter, fine
Herbs chopt very mall, Chibbols, Salt, Cloves, Nut
meg and Capers; adding alo a little Verjuice and white Wine,
if you think fit, with fried Flower. Afterwardslet all be stewds
together in a Dih or earthen Pan, and garnih'd with Lemmon,
as they are ferving up to the Table.
Fried Eels. - {

They mut not beskinn'd, but the Bones being only taken a :
away, let them be cut into pieces, and marinated with Vinegar,
Pepper, Salt, Bay-leaves, Chibbols and Lemmon: Then they s
* af
TT CZ ana Country Cook. -- IT;
are to be flowerd and fried in refined Butter. Before they are
ferv'd up, let a Sauce be made for them with Parly,
vinegar and white Pepper.
Eels broil'd upon the Grid-iron.
After having skinn'd your Eels and cut them into pieces, let
tiem be marinated as before, and let a Sauce be prepard for
them, with burnt Butter, Flower, Capers, Pepper, Salt, Nut
meg, Cloves, Vinegar and a little Broth. When the Eels are
uficiently broil'd upon the Grid-iron, let them be tewd a little
inthat Sauce: They may alo be dres'd with Robert-Sauce and
weet Sauce.

- . Eels in a Daube, ,
Let fome of the Fleh of Ecls and Tenches be minc'd, and
eaon'd with, Pepper, Salt, Cloves and Nutmeg: Then let
Lardoons be made of the other part of the Eels-fleh ; of which
one Lay is to be put upon the Skins, and another Lay of the
minced Fleh, continuing o to do alternately. Then let all be
wrapt up in a Linnen-cloth, and boil'd in the fame manner as
Fih gammon, that is to ay, in one half Water and the other
red Wine ; feafoning them with Cloves, a Bay-leaf or two and
Pepper. When they are cool'd in their own Broth, let them be
erv'd up in Slices for Intermees, rather than Side-dihes,
: ri' , , -

fil-polage.
When your Eels are skinn'd and cut inro pieces, fry them in
a Pan with burnt Butter, fine Herbs, Flower, and the proper
eaoning Ingredients, . Afterwards put them into a Por with
Fih-broth, the manner of preparing which is explain'd under
the Letter B. As foon as the Crusts are foakd, let your Po-
tage be dres'd and ferv'd up, with Capers and Lemmon

An Eelfie and a Tourte or Pan-tie of the ime.


, An Eel-pi is generally ferv'd up hot for a Side-dih: When
the Eels are cut into pieces and their Skins pull'd off, let them .
be eaon'd after the uual manner, with Pepper, Salt, c :
1 .. . . llt
F4 TE Court and Country Cook.
Nutmeg, fine Herbs, Chibbols, Butter, Capers, Bay-leaves and
Bread-chippings. The Pie must be made with fine Pate either
of an ova or round Figure: When it is half-bak'd, a Glas of
white Wine may be pour'd into it, and fome Lemmon-juice,
when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
As for the Tourte or Pan-pie; the Eels may either be minc'd,
after they have been skinn'd and the Bones taken out, or they
may be cut into mall Slices ; feaoning them as before, with
pieces of Muhrooms, the Yolks of Eggs and Lemmon-juice
as they are erving up, in order to make a white Sauce.
E E L - P o w r s.

The Eel-powt is both a Lake and River-fih. They may be


dres'd in Ragoo and Cafferole ; or they may be put into a
Pie, and a Potage may be made of them, with brown Broth.
A Ragoo of Eel-powts.
Let the Eel-powts becleans'd from their Slime, with hot Wa
ter, and afterwards flowerd, and fried : Then being put into
a Dih, with burnt Butter, Flower and diolv'd Anchovies, let :
all be tew'd together ; eaoning them with Salt, Nutmeg, a .
Chibbol and Orange-juice or Verjuice. Let them be garnihd
with fried Parfly, and Slices of Lemmon, and ferv'd up for Side
dihes, as all other Fih-ragoo's.
Eel-powts in Cafferole.
Cleane your Eel-powts from their Slime, laying the Livers
a-part, and fry them in a Pan, with burnt Butter: Then put ,
them into an earthen Pan, with the fame Butter, a little Flower :
and white Wine ; eaoning them with Pepper, Salt, Nurmeg,
a Faggor offine Herbs, and a piece of green Lemmon. In the
mean while, prepare a eparate Ragoo, with the fame Sauce s
as that of the Eel-powts, as alo with their Livers and ome
Muhrooms, and garnih your Dih with it, adding the Juice of
Lemmon; when ready to be erv'd up to Table. -

* Eel
"
The Court and Country Cook. 1 15

- Eel-powt Potage and Pie,


For the Potage, after having wah'd the Eel-powts, let them
be fried whole in a Frying-pan, with burnt Butter and a little
Flower: Then let them be tew'd inan earthen Pan, with Pep
per, Salt, a Bunch of fine Herbs, ome Fih-broth or Peae-oop,
and a little white Wine. When they are ready, dres them
ipon your foaked Cruts, and garnih them with Muhrooms
and Capers. -

For the Pie, skin your Eel-powts, and make a fine Paste, to
ut them in, with their Livers and Roes, Muhrooms, Cray
Oifters and Artichoke-bottoms: Let them be feafon'd
with Pepper, Salt, Nurmeg, fine Herbs and Chibbols; adding
fome Lemmon-juice, when they are brought to Table.
E G G s,
There is not any one Particular throughout the whole Pra
tice of Cookery that affords greater Variety of Dihes, than
Eggs, which are us'd even on Fleh-days, and ferve altogether
for the Out-works of Intermees: the principal ways of dref.
fing them, are as follows viz.
Eggs with Orange-juice.
Let ome Eggs be whipt, according to the bignefs of the
Dih you would have prepard, at the fame time fqueezing in the
Juice of an Orange and taking care that none of the Kernels or
Seeds fallinto it.When they are all well beaten and eaon'd with
a little Salt, take a Stew-pan, and put a lice of Butter therein,
if it be a Fih-day, or a little Gravy on a Fleh-day: Pour in
your Eggs, and keep continually tirring them, as if it were
Cream ; left they tick to the bottom: As foon as they are rea
dy, turn them into a Plate or Dih, them if you think
fit, with fried Eggs, and let them b ferv'd up hor to Table.
Farced Eggs.
Take two or three Cabbagelenices, fald them, with Sor
rel, Parfly, Cherviland a Muhroom, and letall be chopt very
fmall, with fome Yolks of hard Fif; feaon'd with Salt,N
2. - Ult
-sa.
175 The Court and Country Cook.
Nutmeg: Then stew them with Butter, adding alo fome na
turalCream,when they are ufficiently tew'd; and covering the
bottom of the Dih with them. Let the Sides be garnih'd with
fine Herbs and the Whites of the Eggs tuff'd with another :
Farce, giving them a Colour with a red-hor Fire-hovel. -

Farced Eggs may alo be fried, after them into a :


clear Paste or Batter, and ferv'd up with fried Parly. .

Eggs with Tripe.


er the Whites of Eggs only be cut into long or round Slices,
and tos'd up in Butter with Parly and Chibbol chopt very mall:
Then thicken them a little, feaon them with Salt and Nutmeg;
adding alo fome Cream ; and let the Yolks befried to garnih :
your Dih. * -

Petits Oeufs or fmall Eggs.


Take a Gallon of new Milk, and heat it till almost ready to
boil, with a little Salt and pounded Sugar, a piece of Cinna- :
mona Slice of Lemmon,and ome Orange-flower-water: Break
four or five new laid Eggs, take away the Whites of fome of
them, and beat them up with your Milk or Cream fcalding
hot: Then heat a Plate upon a Chafing-dih, and when it is
very hot, pour in fome of your prepar'd Mes, after having
ftrain'd it thro' a Sieve. Letit run about, fo as the Plate maybe
coverd all ovet, and let it be brought to a Colour with the red-
hor Fire-hovel. Afterwards beat your Yolks without Whites,
and a little Flower to thicken them,with thereft of the Milk: Set
the Plate again upon the Fire to be heated, o as the Eggs may
become, as it were a Cream, and put the Yolks into it : Last-
ly, let the whole Mes be trew'd on the Top with Sugar, ad
ding the Juice of a Lemmon and ome Orange-flower-water, as
it is ferving up to Table. . ,

Eggs after the German Mode.


Break ome ggs into a dih, as it were au Miroir, and put
a little Peas-looptherein: Mix two or three Yolks with a little
Milk, and strain them thro a Sieve : Then take away the
Broth in which the Eggs were dres'd,put the Yolks upon them,
with ome craped Cheee and give them a good Colour,
* -. - **** Ff{;
zr

TIEGT TG5 CE. TT7


Eggs after the Burgundian Way.
Take a piece of red Beet, that has not an earthy or una
voury tate, and pound it well with a Slice of Lemmon, a few
Macaroons, Sugar and beaten Cinnamon: Then taking four or
five Eggs, without the Sperm, mix all together very well, and
ftrain them thro' the Hair-fieve,with a little Milk and Salt. Af
terwards they may be dres'd in the fame manner as Eggs with
Milk, and brought to a fine colour.
Eggs fried in Hogs-ears.
The Yolks mut not be us'd in this Fricaffy, which is to be
garnih'd with Muftard, if you pleae, and Lemmon-juice,when
ferv'd up to Table,

Eggs with Bread.


Let ome Bread-crum be well foak'd in Milk during two or
three Hours, and afterwards train'd thro' a Sieve, or fine Cul-
lander ; putting thereto a little Salt, Sugar, candy'd Lemmon
peel cut very mall, grated Orange-peel and Orange-flower
water. Then rub the infide of a Silver-dih with Butter fome
what heated, pour in your Eggs, keeping a Fire on the top and
underneath, that they may take a fine colour, and let them be
orderly ferv'd up to Table.
Eggs after the Swi Way.
Having drefd your Eggs as it were au Miroir, bread them
with Crum : Then let them be cover'd with a Pike-hah and
fome crap'd Cheee, and brought to a fine colour. -
Eggs with Gravy or la Huguenotte.
Let ome Mutton-gravy or any other fort be put into a hol
low Dih, and when 'tis hot; break your Eggs into ir either
au Miroir or mingled together: Seafon them with Salt, Nut-
meg and Lemmon-juice, and pas the red-hot Fire-hoyel over
them, to give them a good colour,
I 3 - Eggs
75-77 Court and Country Cook.
. Eggs after the Portuguee Way.
I et ome Sugar be diolv'd, with Orange-flower-water, the
uice of two Lmmons and a little Salt. Then fet it upon the
} with your Yolks and tirr all with a Silver-poon. When
the Eggs flip from the fides of the Dih, they are ufficiently
boil'd, and may be left to cool. Afterwards let thembe dres'd
in form of a Pyramid and garnih'd with Lemmon-peel and
Marchpane. - *

They may alo be ferv'd hot in a Dih, after they are ic'd
over with Sugar, and colour'd with the red-hot Fire-hovel.
At another time, they may be mix'd in a Mortar with fome
Gooeberry-jelly or Beer-juic boil'd in Sugar,and then fqueez'd .
thro a Syringe, or a Hair-fieve, to be ferv'd up dry in a green
or red Rock. * ,

Eggs with ristuia.


Pound your Pitachoes with a piece of candy'd Lemmon-peel;
boil a fufficient quantity of Sagar with Lemmon-juice, and
when the Syrop is half made, put the Pitachoes into it, with
the Yolks of Eggs : Let them be tirr'das before, till they leave
ticking to the Skillet, and ferv'd up with weet Water.
Egg, with Orange-flower-water.
I et Sugar and Orange-flower-water be put into a Dih or
Skillet, with fome natural Cream, candy'd Lemmon-peel gra
ted, and a little Salt. Then pour in eight or ten Yolks and ftir
them about after the manner of mingled Eggs.

Egg in Filets.
Prepare a Syrop of refin'd Sugar and white Wine, and when
it is above half done, beat your Eggs therein : Then taking
them up with a Skimmer, to the end that the Filets may be well
made, let them be dried at the Fire, and erv'd up with Musk
or ome other Perfume. -
The Court and Country Cook. 119
Eggs after the Italian AMode.
Let a Syrup be prepar'd with Sugar and a little Water :
When it is abovehalfmade, take the Yolks of Eggs in a Silver
fpoon, one after another, and hold them in this Syrop to be
poach'd. Thus you may dres as many as you hall think fit,
continually keeping your Sugar very hor, and they may be
ferv'd up to Table garnih'd and cover'd with Pitachoes, Slices
of Lemmon-peel, and boil'd in the ret of the
Syrop, with Lemmon-juice prinkled upon them.
Eggs with Roe-water.
Having temper'd your Yolks with Roe-water, Lemmon
peel, Macaroons, Salt and beaten Cinnamon ; let them boilin a
Pan over a gentle Fire, with refined Butter : When they are
ready, ice them over with Sugar and Roe-water or Orange
flower-water, and put to them ome Lemmon-juice, with Pome
granate-kernels, as they are ferving up to Table.
Eggs with Sorrel-juice.
As your Eggs are poaching in boiling Water, pound fome
Sorrel, and put thej of it into a Dih, with uter TWO Or
three raw Eggs, Salt and Nutmeg: Let this thick Sauce be
pour'd upon the Eggs, when ferved up to Table.
Eggs with Verjuice.
Beat up your Eggs with good Verjuice and eaon them with
Salt and Nutmeg: Then let them be poach'd with a little But
ter, and garnih'd with fried Bread or fried Pate. v

Eggs with Cream,


When your Eggs are poach'd whole with Butter in a Stew
pan, rake them out, and dres them upn a Plate: Then put to
them fome natural Cream, with a little Salt and Sugar, and
ferve them up ht with Pomegranate-kernels or other forts of
Garniture. -

I 4 An
I 2O The Court and n, Cook.
An Egg-fallet.
'Tis uually made with Anchovies, Capers, Fennel, Lettice,
red Beets, Purlain and Chervil; either of all thee Herbs, or
of every one of them in particular, and ought to be well ea
fond. _3
There are alo many other forts of Eggs, which it will be
fufficient here only to mention, viz., s
Eggs with young Chibbols and other fine Herbs.
------ poach'd with Robert-Sauce.
with Milk.
------

-- dres'd au Miroir. -

---- dres'd whole with green Sauce. - - -

---- in a Hah, poach'd with fine Herbs and garnih'd with


- - fmall round Pellets of fried Eggs.
----- with raped Cheefe.
-- Eggs put into a Pate and fried.
----- fried in a Pan with burnt Butter.
poach'd in Water, with thick Butter.
----- poach'd with Sugar.
------- with Anchovies.
------ with Sorrel, &c.

Counterfeit or artificial Eggs.


Artificial Eggs of everalforts may be made ue of during the
rime of Lent, and more epecially on Good-friday : To that
purpoe, take two Quarts of Milk, and let it boil in an earthen
ora Silver-pan; continually tirring it with a wooden Ladle,
till it be reduc'd to a Pint: Then pour one third part of it into .
a Dih, by jt felf, and fet it on the Fire again, with fome Rice
cream and a little Saffron : When it is thicken'd and become
fomewhat firm, you may make with it, as it were Yolks of
Eggs, which are always to be kept Luke-warm. With the
rest of the Milk fill up fome Egg-hells that you have open'd,af.
rer having wah'd and topt them, and in order to ferve them up
to Table, put your artificial Yolks into thoe Shells, as alo on
the top, a little Almond-cream, or raw . Milk-cream and
Orange-flower-water. Thee are uually ferv'd up, on a ruffled
Napkin and call'd Artificial oft Eggs. *
*

AS
F

The Court and Country Cook. 121


As for the other forts, you are to mix at firt with your Milk
fome fine Flower or Starch, and make as it were a kind of
Patry-cream, without Eggs, eaon'd with Salt: When it is
boil'd, take fome of it to make the Yolks; adding fome Saf
fron, and put thee Yolks into certain half Egg-hells wah'd and :
steept in Water or white Wine: Afterwards fillup other whole
Shells with the ret of the Cream, which being cold, thee
Whites and Yolks may be raken out of their repective Shells,
to make fuch forts of artificial Eggs, as you hall think fit.
As for example :
For frced Eggs, after having taken away the Shell, cut the
Whites into two equal parts, and hollow each of them with a
Silver-poon, in order to be tuff'd with the above-mention'd
Farce. Then let them be dres'd in the fame manner and gr
nih'd with artificial Yolks, that have been flowerd and fried
for that purpoe,
For Eggs with Tripe ; after having cut and made them hol
low, as before, tuff them with Yolks and cut them again into
Quarters; then let them be flowerd and well fried. Having
dres'd them upon a Plate, let a Sauce be prepar'd for them, with
burnt Butter, fine Herbs, Muhrooms boil'd and chopt, Pepper,
Salt, Nutmeg and Roe-vinegar : They may be garnih'd with
Bread, Parly and Muhrooms fried.
For Eggs with Milk ; take boil'd Milk, and Almond-cream,
and temper them with Marmelade of Apricocks : Let all thee
be put with Butter into a Plate over a gentle Fire and afterwards
the Compound of Eggs: Then cover them with a Tin or Cop
r-lid with Fire upon it, to give them a colour like that of a
utard, and let them be ferv'd up with Orange-flowers and Su
gar, -

Artificial Eggs au Miroir are made after this manner: Fill


the bottom of a Plate with your Cream, and let it boil with
Butter, cover'd with a Lid having Fireupon it. As foon as you
perceive it to grow firm, take away the Fire ; make ten or
twelve hollow places, with a Spoon, and fill them up with artifi
cial Yolks: Afterwards prepare a Sauce, with thick Butter,
fine Herbs chopt very mall, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and a lit
tle Vinegar, or otherwie, and when you would have the Dih
ferv'd up to Table, pour it in hot upon the Eggs. The fame
thing may be done with feveral other forts. -

F.
II 22 The Court and Country Cook.

F.
F 4 R c = s.

The number of Farces is very great ; o that it would be


difficult to give a particular account of them after a berterman
ner, than in peaking of every Thing in which they are us'd.
For example, Directions have been already given how to make
thoe of Croquets, Veal and Mutton-curlets, &c. And fo of
the ret: Therefore the Reader is referr'd to every one of thee
Articles, to oberverhenature of every Farce, and we hall here .
only explain that of Fih.
To make a good Fih-farce.
Take Pikes and other Fihes that are at Hand, and
let all be well minc'd upon the Dreffer. Let an Omelet be like
wife that is not fried too much, with Muhrooms,
Truffles, Parfly and Chibbols cut mall, and let all be put upon
the Farce, when it is well orderd and feafon'd: To thee may
be added the Crum of a Loaf foak'd in Milk, with Butter and
Yolks of Eggs, and in a Word, care mut be taken that the
-Farce be well thicken. It may ferve to farce Soles and Carps,
as alo Cabbage; to make mall Andouillets, Croquets, and eve
Thing elfe that you hall judge expedient,as it were on Fleh
ayS.

F A w N, fee Deer.
F E E r.
A Side-dih of Lambs-feet.
The Lambs-feet mut be well calded, boil'd and farc'd, af
ter having taken away the Bone in the middle: Then they
muft be dipt in a beaten Egg, well breaded and fried in the
fame manner as Croquets. This Dih is to be garnih'd with
fried Parfly.
They may alo be us'd for Out-works, or to garnih a Side
dih of a Lambs-head, with white Sauce; as if they were Pi
geons with white Sauce: Lastly, they may be of further ue
* IQ

The Court and Country Cook. 123


to garnih the Potage of Lamb-heads, and ought to be erv'd
up hot to Table.
For Hogs-feet in a Soufce, fee the Letter S.
-Pigs-feet, fee Pigs-pettitoes.
F I L E T s.

We have already explain'd what relates to the Manner of


Dreffing a Filet of Beef with Cucumbers, and we have oberv'd
in that Place , that the fame thing may be done with all
other forts of Filets: Let us now give fome Account of the Fi
lets Mignons that are ferv'd up both for Side-dihes and Out
works.

To make Filets Mignons.


. Take good Filets of Beef, Veal or Mutton, cut them into
large Slices, and beat them well upon a Table or Dreffer: Then
a Farce is to be made of the fame Ingredients as thoe of the
Pain au Veau, except that it mut be thicken'd with Yolks of
Eggs; confifting particularly, of Bacon, part of a Fillet of Veal,
a little Gammon-fat boil'd, and fome Fleh of Fowl, with Par
fly, Chibbols, Truffles and Muhrooms; as alo fome Bread
foak'd in Broth or Milk, and a little Milk-cream. Your Farce
being thus prepard, pread it upon the Filets, according to the
quantity that you would have, and roll them up very firm. Af
terwards, having provided a Srew-pan that is not too large,
let feveral thin Slices of Bacon be laid in order on the bottom
of it, with fome Slices of Veal well beaten, as alo your farced
Filets well feaon'd with all forts of fine Herbs, and fome Slices
of Chibbol and Lemmon : Cover them on the top as well as at
bottom, and fet the Pan between two Fires; but fuch as are not
too vehement, to the end that they may boil gently. When
they are ready, let them be taken out, clear'd well from the
Fat, and erv'd up hot, with a good Cullis, according to dicre
tion, and ome Lemmon-jnice: A fmall Ragoo of Truffles may
alo be added, if you think fit. If any other Side-dih of farc'd
Fowl be requird, you may make ue of the fame Farce, and
bake them likewie between two Fires with your Filets; but to
ditinguih them, when they are all ready, different Ragoo's or
Cullies ought to be made for them: Then they are to
rand
i 24 The Court and Country Cook.
drain'd
Table. from the Fat; and every Thing a-part ferv'd
|- - * a
up to
-

Filets of a fat Pullet, with Cream.


Take the Filets of large fat Pullets roasted, and cut them into
pieces: Then put into a Stew-pan a little Lard and Parly, and,
having tos'd it up with a little Flower, add Artichoke-bottoms
cut into quarters, Muhrooms and Slices of Truffles, a Faggot
of fine Herbs, and a little clear Broth, all well feaon'd. . Wen
they are ufficiently tew'd, put your Filets to them, and a little
before they are erv'd up, pour in a little Milk-cream; taking
care to keep them hot. To thicken them, let one or two Eggs
be beaten with Cream, and having brought it to a due con
fitence, let all be fer on the Table at once,as well for Side-dihes
as Intermees. -

The Filets of a fat Pullet are likewie dres'd with white


Sauce, Oiters and Cucumbers ; the Filets of Mutton with
Truffles; others in Slices,with Gammon; and o of everal others
that my be found by means of the General Table.
As for the Filets of Fih that may be erv'd up in a Sallet du
ring the time of Lent, fee Page 41. - :

\ F R I c A N D o B s.

Ficandoes or Scorch Collops ferve not only to garnih very


fumptuous Side-dihes; but alo to make particular Dihes: :
When they are us'd for garnihing, 'tis requifite only to lard
them; but when farced for a eparate Dih, they are to be pre
par'd in this manner: ~/
:
|

To make farc'd Fricandoes or Scotch Collops.


Cut a Leg of Veal into omewhat thin Collops, and having
arded them fet them in order upon a Table or Dreffer, with
the Bacon underneath: Then put on the middle of every one, a
little of fome good Farce, and troak the Sides of it with your
Fingers dipt in a beaten Egg, to the end that the Fricandoe or ;
Collop when put thereupon, may stick to it and be as it were
incorporated with it ; but care mut be taken that the Bacon :
appear on all fides. . Having put thee Fricandoes in due order :
into a Stew-pan,let them be well cover'd and fet over a Firethat
1S
Li

The Court and ET 5 CE 125

is not too quick ; neither mut there be any n the top. They
are to be brought to a colour on both Sides, then taken out
and drain'd a little from the Far, to the end that they may be
render'd fomewhat brown,with a little Flower: Afterwards you
must foak them in good Gravy that is not black, and put
them again into the Stew-pan to be thoroughly dres'd. If they
are deign'd only for Garniture, they may be left in this man
ner; but if you would have a particular Dih made of them,
it would be requifite to add fome Truffles, Muhrooms and Veal
fweet-breads, with a good Bread-cullis, and to take care that
all be well clear'd from the Fat. When they are ready, prinkle
them with a little Verjuice; dres them in a Dih, pouring your
Ragoo on the top, and let them be ferv'd up hot. Some call
this fort of Fricandoes, by the Denomination of Scollop'd Veal.
The manner of preparing Fricandoes to make a Grenade, will
beexplain'd hereafter under the Letter G.
F R I T T E R s.

Fritters are made feveral Ways, that is to ay, with A ples,


Blanc-mangers, Milk, or Water; and all thee forts are us'd for
Intermees. -

Intermeffes of Water-fitters.
Let om Water and a little Salt be put into a Stew-pan, with
green and candy'd Lemmon-peel minc'd very mall : Let it
boil over, a Furnace, and having put therein two good Hand
fuls of Flower, with a little Butter, ftir it about, as much as
is poible, till it be looend from the Pan: Then, drawing it
afide, put in the Yolks of two Eggs and mix them well toge
ther ; continuing to put n two Eggs ar once ucceively, to
the number of ten or twelve, till your Pate or Barter become
very rich. Afterwards, having flower'd the Dreffer-board, dip
your Fingers likewife into Flower, and draw out your Paste
into pieces : When they have lain by a little while, they are to
be roll'd out, and cut into mall round pieces, o as not to tick.
one to another, and when ready, they may be fried in good
Lard: Having taken them out of the Frying-pan, trew fome
Sugar upon them, fprinkling alo a little Orange-flower-water,
let them be peedily ferv'd up for Out-works. They may
likewife be us'd for the garnihing of Cream-tarts.
- - - - - - - inter
I 26 TH C a 75 CE -

Intermeffes of Blanc-manger-fitters.
Take Rice, wah it in five or fix Waters and dry it well at -
the Fire: Then pound it in a Mortar, and fift this Flower thro' .
a Sieve to render it very fine. It would be requifite to ue a :
good half ounce of it, according to the bignes of your Dihes.
Having put this Flower into a Stew-pan,dilute it well with Milk,
afterwards pour in a Quart of Milk, and fet all over the Fur
nace ; but care mut be taken to tir it continually. You muft
alo put thereto the Breat of a roated fat Pullet minc'd mall
and make your Pate as if it were for Pastry-cream ; neither
would it be improper to add a little Sugar, fome candy'd Lem
mn-peel and green Lemmon-peel grated, as it is boiling. In |
the mean while, the Dreffer-board is to be flowerd, and the
Pate being laid upon it, mut be roll'd out with a Rolling-pin: .
Then having cut it into mall pieces like thoe of the Water-frit- .
ters, flower your Hand, make them up neatly, and fry them -
in good Lard, as before. As foon as they are ready to be ferv'd ,}
3 to Table, trew them with Sugar, and prinkle them with
range-flower-water. If they are to ferve fora particular Dih,
let them be garnih'd with Water-fritters or others.
AMilk-fitters.
They are made after the fame manner as the Water-fritters, :
but a les quantity of Flower muft be us'd, to the end that the
Paste may be fomewhat finer; and if it be not fufficiently fine,
fome more Yolks of Eggs may be put into theStew-pan. Then
let the Batter beturn'd into a Plate and well pread over the bot
tom of it. Afterwards having provided fome melted Lard in a .
Frying-pan and a Spoon, you may make the Fritters with the end
of it, which is to be dipt from time to time, in the Lard, to keep
the Batter from ticking to it. The Frying-pan mut be gently
mov'd without intermiion, and the Fritters, when well colour'd ,
mut be taken out, in order to be fugar'd hor, and prinkled
with Orange-flower-water. Afterwards being fugard again a
little, they may be ic'd over, if you pleae, with the red-hot
Fire-hovel, and ferv'd up hot to Table. -

{)ther
The Court and Coantry Cook. 127

Other forts of Fritters.


Fritters may alo be made with Apples, Apricocks.preferv'd
dry, Plums, Cherries in Ears, mooth Pitachoes, Gooe
berries preerv'd, Pomegranate-kernels and Parmefan ; fome of
them requiring a thin Paste or Batter, and others thicker. But
foramuch as this is rather the Buines of a Confetioner than
a Cook, we hall take no farther notice of thee Matvers in this
Place. 1

F R U 1 r.

How to make Pastes of feveral forts of Fruit.


As for white Gooeberries, they mut not be too ripe, but for
other forts of Fruit, 'tis no great matter. Take thee Fruits,
every one of them a-part, let them be well pickt, and put into
a Copper-pan, with a little Water; but if you would have a
Jelly made of them, the Liquor of every particular Fruit muft
be drawn off eparately: When they are calded in that little
Water, pour all into a Sieve, in order to be well drain'd, and
this Liquor will ferve to make your Jelly. As foon as the feve
ral forts of Fruit are ufficiently drain'd in this manner, take a
Spatula and fqueez every one of them feparately thro a Sieve
into different Silver-dihes ; fo as it may become, as it were a
kind of Marmelade : Set one of thee Dihes upon the Furnace,
and dry up this Pate neatly with the Spatula till no moiturebe
| left. The fame thing may be done with every fort of Paste,
and they may be left to coolin their proper Dihes. In the mean
while, you are to provide a large Copper-pan and put into it fe
ven or eight Pounds of Sugar, according to the quantity of your
Paste: Pour in fome Water, with the White of an Egg whipt,
: and let it be fcumm'd as foon as it boils; for after three or four
Walms, a thick Scum will arife, which mut be carefully taken
| of to the end that your Syrop may become very clear. Then
let it boil till it be greatly featherd, and having fet the Dihes
of Marmelade in order, } fome of this Syrop into them, ac
cording to the of your Pates ; fo as every Thing may
be well temperd a-part. Afterwards you are to take fome Slates
with feveral little made in the Shape of a Hart,
| Square, Flower-de-luce, or the like, and of ome other rs :et|
- - -
TE T Cour ama Commy Goog.
Set thee Mouldsin order upon the Slates, and by means of a
Spoon, fill them up with your Pate or Marmelade ; taking
care not to confound them one with another: Laftly, let thee
Slates be put into a Stove, with a little Fire underneath, and hut |
up cloe, to the end that the Paste may be wellic'd over. When
they are fo order'd, and become firm, the Moulds may be ta
kn away, and they will ferve for a confiderable time, provi
ded that fufficient care be taken of them in the Stove.
For the Jelly of thee Fruits, take the Liquor that is drain'd,
from them, that of every fort a-part, and let it boil with Su
gar well clarify'd and boil'd till it become pearled. As it is boil
ing, take off the Scum from time to time, with Paper, and when
your Jelly is made, fill up feveral Pots with it, which are to
to be fet by to cool. When the Jelly is cold, cover them with
Paper, and tye up the Pots all at once, writing on the top of
every one, the Name of the Jelly contain'd therein, according :
to the variety of Fruits, from which the feveral Liquors were
extrated. * :
:
*

G.
* G A L A N T 1 N .
THe Nature of an Intermes of Galantine fhall be hereafter
explain'd in the Article of Sucking-Pigs, under the Letter P.
and there alo hall be hew'd the Manner of Garnihing it and
Serving it up to Table: We hall only intimate here, that it :
may alo be garnih'd with its Skin well breaded and brought *
to fine colour, by means of the red-hot Fire-hovel; for the
ret, the Reader is referr'd to the Place even now mentioned.
G A L L 1 M A w P R Y. |

Tis no new thing nor very difficult to dres a Shoulder of :


Mutton, or ome other Joynt in a Gallimawfry : However in s
regard that it may ferve to diverifie the Mees in thoe Ordi- i
naries, where there is greater tore of Butchers-meat than Fowl; ;
it may not be improper here to hew the manner of preparingit, s
which is as follows, viz. . . . -

Let the Skin of a Shoulder of Mutton be flipt off, yet fo as it


may continue ticking to the Knuckle ; mince the Fleh mall, .
andput it into a Frying-pan, with Lar, fine Herbs, whole
* - **s bols,
The Court and Country Cook. 1 29 *

bols, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Muhrooms,green Lemmon and fome


Broth, to be fried or tew'd all together: Then dres it under the
Skin, which may be breaded and colour'd ; adding ome Lem
mon-juice and good Gravy, when the Dih is ready to be ferv'd
up to Table. - ~

G A M M o N.

Take mall Slices of raw Gammon ; let them be well beaten


and tos'd up in a Stew-pan, with a little Lard: Then fet them
over a Chafing-dih, and by the means of a Spoon, bring them
to a brown colour, with a little Flower. . As foon as they are
colour'd put to them good Gravy, a Bunch of Chibbols and fine
Herbs, a few Cloves, a Clove of Garlick, ome Slices of Lem
mon, a Handful of chopt Muhrooms, Truffles likewife minc'd,
fc me Crufts of Bread and a little Vinegar : When they are ali
uficiently boil'd, train them thro a Sieve and put this Liquor
or Gravy into a convenient Place, without fuffering it to boil
any longer. It will be of ue for the drefing of all forts of
Dihes in which Gammon is us'd. -

A Gammon-pie.
Having provided a good Gammon, take off the Skinor Sward
with the bad Fat, and cut off the Hock and the Bone in the
middle. Then covering it with Bards or thin Slices of Bacon
and Beef-takes, alfo Spice, fine Herbs, pieces of Onion and a
Bay-leaf, fet it between two Fires in a Pot, with the Lid cloe
ftopt, o that no team may evaporate: Stew it thus during
twelve or Sixteen Hours ; taking care that the Fire be mot too
quick, and let it cool in the fame Pot: In the mean while, pre
pare a thick Pate, with a little Butter, an Egg, Flower and
Water, and taking the Dih in which you would have it ferv'd
up, make a large Border round about it with the fame Pate :
This Border ought to be thick, having a Foot to bear fome
Weight, becaue there is no Bottom-cruft, and may be wrought
on the out-fide with little Flower-de-luces and other fine Patry
works : Set it into the Oven, and when it is bak'd, take out
your Gammon, pouring off all the Fat that lies round about,
and put it intoa Dih, with its own Gravy. You may alo make
ue of the fame Stakes or Slices of Beef, to fill up the Intervals,
V
and fome Fat, and compleat the s them, asifit weredone1IA
i 3o The Court and Country Cook.
in the Pie. Tis alo requifite to add a little chopt Parfly, to strew
it with Bread-chippings, and to give it a colour with the red
ht Fire-hovel, in order to be ferv'd up cold to Table.

Another Intermest of Gammon-pie.


Take away the Skin with the bad Fat of your Gammon, cut
off the thin End or Hock, as before: Then, having prepard a
thick brown Paste, with Rye-flower and Water, make your
Pie of a round Figure and a coniderable heighth ; putting on
the bottom a ufficient quantity of Bacon minc'd and pounded :
Then having well fix'd the Gammontherein,put ome Bay-leaves, .
four or five Slices of Lemmon and feveral other Bards or thin
Slices of Bacon on the top: Afterwards cover it with a Lid, and
when the Pie is quite finih'd, wah it over with the Yolk f an
Egg: Let it stand in the Oven during fix Hours and fet it by
cof, before it is brought to Table. :

Gammon in a Ragoo, with Hypocras.


Take raw Slices of Gammon, and fry them in a Pan; making
a Sauce with Sugar, Cinnamon, a pounded Macaroon, red Wine
and a little white beaten. Then put your Slices into this
Sauce, and prinkle them with Orange-juice, when ready to be
ferv'd up to Table. -

Gammon is dres'd otherwie among the Salt-meats, with Sau


fages and dried Tongues. .
For a Gammon-Omelet recoure may be had hereafter to the
Letter O, and for Pigeons with Gammon, to the Letter P. in
like manner as Chickens with Gammon and the Gammon-cul
lis are already fet down under C.

Fih-gammon. .
Take the Fleh of Tenches, Eels and freh Salmon, and the
Roes of Carps, which are to be minc'd and pounded in a Mor
tar, with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Butter. Mix all thee forts
of Fleh well together, and make of them as it were a kind of
Gammon, upon the Skins of Carps: Then wrap up the whole
Farce in a new Linnen-cloth, which is to be ow'd up very
cloe, and let it boil in one half Water and the other Wine; ea
fon'd with Cloves, a Bay-leaf and Pepper. Let it cool ih its
OWn
" The Court and Country Cook. 134
own Broth, and ferve it up with Bay-leaves, fine Herbs chopt
1. very mall, and Slices of Lemmon. It may alo be cut into Sii
ces, as the real Gammon. - - -

A Leg or houlder of Mutton may be imitated after the fame


manner, as alo Chickens and Pigeons or elfe with a fort of Fih
farce before decrib'd in the firt Article of the Letter F. *

* G o D i v o E s.
- * * * * - v . ' "

We have already taken notice of everal forts of Godivo's for


different Meffes ; o that ir may be ufficient here only to hew
the manner of making the Godivoe of a Poupeton, which may
ferve for many other Things of the like nature. ' ' .
. To make the Godivoe ofa Poupeton.
Take part of a Leg of Veal; with fome parboil'd Bacon and
other Fat, all well minc'd : Then adding to thee, ome chopt
Truffles and Muhrooms, Chibbols, Parfly, the Crum of a Loaf
foak'd in good Gravy, four whole Eggs and two Yolks; make
the Poupeton, as it were a Pie, in the Stew-pan with Bards or
ses of Bacon underneath. You mut alo have at Hand,
ome Pigeons well drefs'd, with all forts of fine Herbs and good
Garnitures, and fome very mall Slices of Gammon; allwell
feaon'd : Let your Pigeons be put into the Poupeton; and mak
an end of covering them with the Farce. To keepit from break
ing, you may beat up an Egg, and lay it on neatly with your
... Hand: Then let the Bards or Bacon-lices, that are round a- *
bout be turn'd upon it, and let it be bak'd between two gentle
Fires, viz. on the top and underneath. This is commonly call'd
a Poupeton farc'd with young Pigeons, and ferves for a Side-dih.
Quails may alo be farced with it, or other Fowls of the fame
flaTUTC. * ,, , - - -

G o s E - G 1 B B L E T s. * /

There has been occaion to make mention of a Potage of


Gooe-gibblets Pag, 26. in order to prepare which, let your Gib
blets boilin good Brothfeaon'd with a Bunch of fine Herbs and
Salt: Then cut them intopieces and frythemin Lard,with Parfly,
Chervil and a little white Pepper: Latly, having tew'd all
with Yolks of Eggs, a little ej a the Juice of a Lem
* - 2. IIIOIA

*
132 The Court and Country Cook.
mon, dres your Potage upon the foaked Crufts. The fame
thing may be alo done with the Beatils or Tid-bits of other forts
of Fowl. -

A Gibblet-pie.
Gibblet-Tourtes or Pan-pies may be likewife made in this :
manner : Let your Gibblets be cut into pieces , fcalded and :
well cleans'd : Then make your Pie with a fine Pate, both for
the Under and feaoning it with Pepper, Salt,
Cloves, fine Herbs, Chibbol and Nutmeg, and adding ome
pounded Lard, Artichoke-bottoms Morilles, and common Muh-
rooms : Let it be bak'd about two Hours, and ferv'd up with
a little white Sauce.

G R A v Y.

Veal-gravy.
Cut a Filler of Veal into three parts, put it into an earthen
Pot, and top it up fo cloe with its Lid and fome Pate, that no
Air may come to it : Let it stand over a gentle Fire about two
Hours, and your Gravy will be made; to be us'd for thoe Me.
fes, into which, according to our Directions, ome of it is requi- :
fite to be put, to render them more ucculent and to heighten
their Relih,
The fame thing may be done,in preparing the Gravy of Mut
ton or Beef; or ele recoure may be had to what has been laid
down in the firt Article of Cullies. *

Partridge and Capon-gravy. ;:


*


Let both be roated, and when they are ready, let them be
fqueez'd eparately to get their Gravy. The fame thing may
be put in pratice for Veal-gravy and others. -
*a

Fih-gravy.
Take Tenches and Carps, cleane the former from their Mud,
cut them quite thro' the Back, and cale the Carps: Having
taken away the Gills from both, put them into a Silver-dih,with
a little Butter: Let them be brought to a brown colour, like a
* - plece
The Court and Country Cook. 13 3
of Beef, and when they are dres'd, put to them a little
'; lower, which is alo to be made brown with the ret, and af
terwards fome Broth, according to the quantity of Gravy that
you would have made : Strain all thro a Linnen-cloath and let
it be very well queez'd. Latly, feaon this Liquor or Gravy,
with a Bunch of Herbs, Salt and a green Lemmon tuck with
Cloves, to be us'd, as well for Potages, a for Side-dihes and
Intermeffe of Fih. - -

G R E N A D E.
To make a Grenade, 'tis requiite to have a fufficient quanti
ty of Fricandoe's, or Scotch-Collops larded with mall Slips of
Bacon, and a round Stew-pan, is not of too large a fize.
Then put ome thin Slices of Bacon on the bottom, and fet your
Fricandoe's in Order, with the Bacon on the outide ; o as they
may meetin a Point in the middle,and touch one another. To
keep this Order from being confunded in the dreing of the
Meats, they mut be bound together, with the White of a beaten
Egg; into which you may dip your Fingers, to moiten them
on the Sides, which ought to be thinner than the ret. Into the
hollow place made by this means, and alo round about, you
are to put a little of of Mirotons, or of forpe other Go
divoe ; reerving the middle for fix Pigeons dres'd in a Ragoo,
with Veai-fweebread, Truffles, Muhrooms and mall Slices of
Gammon, all well eaon'd: The Ragoo is likewie to be pour'd
into it, as if it were a Poupeton. Then cover the ret of the
Farce on the top, ordering it with your Fingers dipt in a beaten
Egg, and join the Fricandoe's quite oppoite thereto : Some
Bards or thin Slices of Bacon are likewife to be laid on the top,
and the whole Mes is to be bak'd la Braife or between two
Fires, to give it a fine colour. In order to ferve it up hot, it mut -
beturn'd upfide down, and when the Fat is all taken away, the
Point of the Fricandoe's or Collops mut be open'd like that of
a Grenade or Pomegranae; from whence this fort of Mes takes.
its Name. - - - -
134 The Court and Country Cook.
-- , . - II - - - - - - ~
- A G R B N A D I , N, , ' , ,, '

offu pula, chietin, Figo, Partridge andal frt; -

, . .. of Fowl, .i.
, ! y .. ", . . . . .
Let a well-eaon'd Gdtvee be prepard, after the fath inan: |
ner as before for the Poupeton; remembring to thicken it with
Yolks of Eggs and Bread-crum foak'd in good Gravy, or n a
little Milk-cream: Then take a Baking-pan, according to the
bignes of your Dih, and put into it forne Bards or very thin
Slices of Bacon : Let your Godivoe be laid upon thee Bards,
and with your in a beaten Egg, make a Hole pro *
|
to the fize of your Dilh or Plate ; raifing up the
fides to the heighth of three Inches, and fo as they may be
fomewhar firm. Take your fat Pullets or other Fowls as they
are raw, cut them into pieces, and let them be well beaten:
Then fry them in a Pan, with Lard, Parfly, Chibbol and a
little Fiwer, and afterwards put to tiem a little Gravy; ea
foning then well, and adding Trufes cut into Slices, M -
footns a Veal-weet-breads. When they are almot ready,
fo that little Sauce is left, fer the Fowls in order in your Gre:
nadin, and let it be neatly breaded on the top, to give it a
good colour in the Oven. As foon as it is drawn, drain it well ::
rom the Fat, cut off the Bards round about, and turn it into
your Dih or Plare: A Muhroom-cullis may al be pour'd
il "- -
it, in order to ferve it up hot to the Table for a Side
, , , , , , - - , -, , .- |
|
ir: : A G R 1 L L A D E, or * .

, Dih f Meat broil'd upon the Grid-iron.


When any Turkeys, or other forts of Fowl are left cold, a
Side-dih may be made of them in this manner: Take their
Wings, Legs and Rumps, and broil them upon the Grid-iron,
with Pepper and Salt, Then fry fome Flower in Lard, with
Oisters, Anchovies, Capers, Nutmeg, a Bay-leaf an piece
of green Lemmon, alo a little Vinegar and Broth, and let
them all be well foak'd together. -

N, *

G R U
The Court and Country Cook. I 35

G R U E L.
An Interme of Gruel or Milk-potage.
Ler fome fine Qat-meal be put into a little Pot, full of Milk,
with a Stick of Cinnamon, a piece of green Lemmon- 3.
little Salt, Coriander-feed and a few Cloves: Let it boil till it
becomes a fine Cream; then train it thro' the Hair-fieve, and
having pour'd it into a Cuvet, Bafon, or Dih, put a little Sugar
therein: Afterwardsbring it to a Furnace,the Fire of which is not
too quick; becaue it ought norto boil any longer: Stirit about
gently, from time to time, and when the Sugar is melted, fet ir
upon the hot Embers ; covering it cloe, till a kind of thick
Cream over-pread the top: Then take it off, and let it be ferv'd
up hot in the fame Dih. - -

v
- - - H.
H A s H E s.

A Hah of Partridges.
To make a Hah of Partridges, the fame Method is to be
oberv'd, as in preparing an ordinary Murton-hah; only
you may add fome Gammon, and it with good Gravy;
arnihing your Dih with nai Cruts of fried Bread, and
prinkling it with Lemmon-juice, when ready to be ferv'd up
to Table, ... - *

-
|*
A cathah.
-
.. . * * ** *

- --> -

For a Carp-hah, a few Capers are to be put into it, with


Muhrooms, Truffles and other proper Garnitures, after all has
been well minc'd and feaon'd. f: *
There are alo fome_other forts of Hahes, which my be
found by means of the General Table, in the feveral Places to
which they properly belong, and where they are treated of in
particular. ., -

- |- - - - i
K 4. " - - *
HAR -
-- -
136. - The Court and Country Cook.

|
H A R I c o r s.

The manner of dreffing an Haricot of Mutton, has been al


ready explain'd in the lat Article of Cutlets under the Letter C ;
and for Fih-Haricots, they may be prepar'd as a Pike in Hari
cot, under P. -

H A r l = r s.
-
-

- A Dih of Hatlets is proper for the Intermees, and may be


thus made, viz. Let fome Veal-weet-breads be parboil'd and
cur into mall Pieces, with Capons-livers and young streaked
Bacon likewife parboil'd : Then let all be well feaon'd and
fryd with a little Parfly, Chibbol and fine Flower. When
they are almot ready, o that only a little thick Sauce is left,
you are to make mall Hatlets, and pit the pieces of Livers,
Sweet-breads and Bacon upon them, according to the bignes
you would have them to be of Afterwards, havin dipt them
in the Sauce and well breaded them, they may be # d upon
a Grid-iron or fried. * -, ,

Hatlets are alo often us'd for the garnihing of Dihes of


Roat-meat.

H E A D s.
An Intermest of a Boar's Head.
Let a Boar's Head be well findg'd at a clear Fire, and rubb'd
with a piece of Brick to take off all the Hair ; let it alo be .
fcrap'd with a Knife and well cleans'd: After having boned
it, cutting out the two Jaw-bones and the Snout; flit it under
nearh, o as it may tick to its Skin on the top, and take away
the Brain and Tongue : Then take up fome i with the Point
of your Knife, and caue it to penetrate thro all the Parts of
the Fleh: Afterwardslet the whole Head be fet together again,
and well tied up, wrapping it in a Napkin. In the mean while,
a great Kettle, almot full of Water, is to be hang'd over the
Fire, and the Head put into it, with all forts of fine Herbs, .
fome Leaf-fat out of a Hog's Belly, two Bay-leaves, Corian-
der and Anis-eed, Cloves and Nutmeg beaten, and fome Salt,
if it has not been ufficiently corned before; adding alo fome
Onion and Roemary. When it is half boil'd, pour in a os;
The Court and Country Cook. 137

ofgood Wine, and let it continue boiling for the pace of twelve
Hours; the Tongue may alo be boil'd in the fame Liquor. If
time will permit, the Head may be falted before it is dres'd,
: and left for a while in its Brine. When it is ready, let it cooi
in its own Liquor; then having taken it out, let it be neatly
3 putinto a Dih and erved up to Table cold; either whole or in
Slices. *

Fih-heads.
The Head of a Pike may be dres'd in a Court-bouillon, as ir
appears in the Second Article of Pike under the Letter P, and
may alo be ferv'd up in Potage, as well as others ; more epe
; cially that of Salmon, for which fee3ol.
Lambs-heads in Potage, or for a Side-dih.
Take the Heads, Feet and Livers of Lambs, with young
Bacon, and having well calded them, let them boil all together
in fome Broth in a great Pot: As foon as they are boil'd and
well eaon'd, lay your Potage a foaking with good Broth and
Gravy, and fet the Lambs-heads in Order in the middle: Then
having breaded the Brains, fry them, 'till they become as it
were Croquets, and put them again into their Place-; garnihing
our Potage, with the Livers, Feet and Bacon : To thefe is to
e added a White Cullis, made with a piece of Bread-crum
steept in good Broth, a Douzen and half of weet Almonds,
and three Yolks of hard Eggs, all pounded in a Mortar, train'd
thro a Sieve, well foak'd and eaon'd ; with the Juice of a
Lemmon, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
A green Cullis may alo be prepar'd with Chibbol-tops, Spi
nage and Crufts of Bread, which are likewife to be foak'd in a
Stew-pan, with good Broth, well eaon'd with Cloves, Thyme
and Gravy: Pound your Chibbol-tops and Spinage in a Mortar;
and having train'd the ret thro' a Sieve, put them into the Po- .
tage ; trewing it with Afparagus-tops, and prinkling it with
the Juice of a Lemmon.
- Intead of thisCullis, a good fort of green Peae-foop may be
pour'd upon the Potage of Lambs-heads; otherwie to diveri
fie them, a Cullis may be made of the Livers, to be garnihd
with the Feet and young Bacon. At another time, they may
be cover'd with green Peae, and a Cullis of the fame, accor
ding
138 The Court and Country Cook.
'ding to the Seaon. . And at another time, the Lambs-heads
may be carefully calded in Water that is not too hot; then all
the Bones must be cur out with the Tongue, taking care that
the Skin remain quite entire : Thee Heads are to be tuff'd ,
with fome good Farce, and neatly tied up, in order to be dres'd:
Then they are to be put into the Porage,and garnih'd as before;
or ele with Lambs-lungs marinated and fried in Pate.
A mall Side-dih of Lambs-heads may be prepar'd with a
good Ragoo pour'd upon it ; as alo a kind of Lamb-potage,
with Roman Lettice farced ; garnihing the aid Potage with
the Stalks of the Lettice fried in a Pan with Lard and Flower, :
and afterwards laid a foaking in a Pot with good Broth, which
must be thicken'd beforeitis dres'd, with Yolks of Eggs train'd
thro the Hair-fieve.

H I N D.

To know the manner ofdrefing a Hind, 'tis only requiite to


have recoure to the Article of a Stag; as being of the fame Na
ture, except that the former is ofrer and more inipid. There-
fore it ought to be teept in a Marinade of the fame, after ir
has been larded, with mall Slips of Bacon: It mut be well
basted as it is roating ; and when it is ready, Capers and fried
Flower are to be put into the Dripping, with a little green Lem
mon; it mut alo be foak'd in its Sauce.
When your Hind is larded, marinated and roasted, cover'd
with Paper ; a weet Sauce may likewie be prepared for ir,
with Vinegar, Pepper, Sugar, Cinnamon and a whole Shalot.
For a Hind-Civet, fee the Letter C. -

I. -

/ J E L L I E s.
TH. manner of making a Jelly of Fruits has been already ex
pres'd under the Letter F, and in the Article of Blanc
manger may be found the Jelly which is requifire for that pur
poe, as alo that of Harts-horn, for Fih-days; fo that we hall
only here produce a fort of for fick Perons; which
nevertheles will be of a much better Relih to thoe that are in
Health, when ferv'd up among the Intermefes as the ret. . .
+ '; To
The Court and Country Cook. I 39

To make an excelent fely.


Take Calves-feet, according to the quantity of Jelly that you
would have made, with a good Cock, and having well wahd
all, pur them into a Kettle or Por, filling it with a proportion
aile quantity of Water. Let them boil together, and be more
epecially careful to look after the cumming of the Pot. When .
thee Mears are almot reduc'd to Rags, 'tis a fign that the Jel
ly is ufficiently boid, but care mut be taken that it be not
too trong Then having provided a good Stew-pan, train
the Jelly thro a Sieve, that isto ay, nothing but the pure Broth;
clear it well from the Fat, with two or three Feathers; and
put ome Sugar into it proportionably; with a Stick of Cinna
mon, two or three Cloves and the Peel of two or three Lem
mons, the Juice of which mut be kept. Let your Jelly boil
thus a little while, and in the mean time, make fome Snow with
i four or fix Whites of Eggs: Squeez the Juice of your Lemmons
intoit, and pour all into the Jelly; together,a little
| while over the Furnace : Then leaving them till the Liquor ri
: es, and is ready to run over the Pan; pour it out into the
Straining-bag, and strain it two or three times, till you perceive
it to be clear. Whilt the Jelly is boiling with the Mears, ome
: think fit to pour in a little white Wine. In order to ferve this
Jelly up to Table, it mut be put into a very cold Place, to the
end that it may be well coagulated in the Dihes. . . .
: ;: , ' ' " - ...
: How to colour fellies. . . .
Thee Colours being well 'orderd, may produce very agree
able Effects in a Blanc-manger; or any other Mes of the like
nature. For Example, the Jelly may be left in its natural Co
lour, or made white with Almonds pounded and train'd after
the uual manner : For yellow, fome Yolks of Eggs may be
putinto it; for Grey, a little Cochineel; for Red, fome Juice
of red Beet or Turnfole of Portugal ; for Purple, ome_purple
Turnfole, or Powder of Violets; and for Green, ome Juice of
: Beet-leaves, which is to be boil'd in a Dih to take away its
Crudity. - -

* - 1

J o L L.
14o The Court and Country Cook.

J o L L. . " |
A joll of Salmon. *

Let your Joll be cal'd, larded with Slips of Eels-fleh and -


feaon'd with Pepper: Then fry it with burnt Butter and af
terwards tew it in an Earthen Pan, with clear Peae-foop, fine .
Herbs and green Lemmon: Add to thee, ome Capers, Muh- :
rooms and isters, fry'd with burnt Butter and a little Flower;
and dres all artificially in the Potage, with Lemmon-juice, as
they are ferving up to Table.
J U L I A N.
F
The Julian is a very confiderable Potage, and may be made :
in this manner: Having roafted a Leg of Mutton, let the Fat :
and Skin be taken away, and let it be put into a Kettle or Pot, :
of a fufficient bignes to hold fome Broth for the Potage. Then
add a good piece of Beef; another of a Fillet of Veal; a fat a
Capon; Carrets, Turneps and Parneps, two of each; Parly.
roots, Celery and an Onion tuck with Cloves; and let all boil ,
together a long while, to the end that your Broth may be uffi
ciently enrich'd. In the mean time, another Pot mut be pro
vided, and therein three or four Bundles of Aparagus, as much
Sorrel as may be cut with a Knife at two trokes and fome :
Chervil. Let them be well boil'd with fome Broth taken out :
of the great Pot, and when the Crusts are oakd, ler the Apa;
and Sorrel be laid in order upon them, but nothing round :
aDOUIL. 4.

3ulian-Potages are alo made of a Breaft of Veal, Capons, z


fat Pullets, Pigeons and other forts of Meat: When they are .
well and_fcalded, let them be put into a Pot with ,
good Broth and a Bunch of fine Herbs; afterwards adding the
above-mentioned Roots and Pulfe; which may alo ferve to gar:
nih the Potage, with Heaps of Aparagus choptinto pieces, and
nothing ele, but what is green, uch as green Peae, &c.
The Court and Country Cook. I4I

K.
K 1 D s.

Kids may be dres'd after the fame manner as Lamb, either


in Potage, or for Side-dihes; o that it is only requifire to per
ufe what is hereafter fet down in that Article; and for roated
Kids, to turn to the Letter R.

L.
L A M B. -

IT were needles to take notice, That Quarters, or whole Sides


of Lamb, often ferve for the great Roat, when it is in fea
fon; and more epecially,for the meaner fort of Ordinaries. And
in regard, that there is nothing either difficult or unknown rela
ting to this Article, we hall here only hew the manner of ma
king a Ragoo of Lamb; at the fame time, referring the Rea
der, for Lambs-heads, to the third Article of Heads, and, for
Lambs-feet, to the Letter F. -

Lamb in a Ragoo.
A Ragoo of Lamb may be thus: Cut it into four
uarters, and, after having larded it with middle-fizd Slips of
con, and given it omewhat of a colour, ler it be boil'd in
an Earthen Pot or Stew-pan, with Broth, Pepper, Salt, Cloves,
Muhrooms, and a Faggot of fine Herbs. When it is ready, let
a Sauce be made for it, of Oiters fried with a little Flower,
two Anchovies; and Lemmon-juice, when ready to be ferv'd up
to Table, and let it be garnih'd with fried Muhrooms,
L A M P R = r s. .
Lampreys may be dres'd two feveral ways, viz. Take ome
of their Blood and let it be kept a-part: Then cleane them from
their Slime with hot Water and cut them into pieces; which
are to be tew'd in an Earthen Pot, with burnt Butter, white
Wine, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, a Bunch of Herbs and a Bay
leaf. Afterwards let their Blood be put to them, with a
1'le
4--------

I 42 The Court and Country Cook.


fried Flower and Capers, and let them be garnih'd with Slices of
Lemmon. *

To dres them with fweet Sauce; when they are clear'd


from their Slime, let them be ftew'd in red Wine, with burnt :
Butter, Cinnamon, Sugar, Pepper, Salt and a piece of green -
Lemmon; adding ome Lemmon-juice, when they are fet upon :
the Table. - -

If it be requir'd to make a Potage of Lampreys, cut them


into pieces, aftr having taken away their Slime, and fry them
in burnt Butter, with Salt, Flower, fine Herbs chopt mall,
Muhrooms, trained ;and a piece of green Lem
mon. Then let them be dres'd upon the foak'd 8 and
fprinkled with Lemmon-juice, as they are ferving up to Table.
For Pies of Lampreys, ee the Letter P. -
- |
L A R K s.

Larks may be put into a Ragoo for Side-dihes, as alo into a


ftanding Pie,to be ferv'd up hot,and into a Tourte or Pan-pie; for
the two latter,it would be requiite only to oberve the Diretions :
given for the drefing of other forts of Fowl of the like nature,
and among others, for young Pigeons ; except that Larks are :
not farced as larger Birds. Only their Ghizzards are uually a
taken out, and fetin order on the bottom of the Pie, which is alo :
to be fill'd with Muhrooms, Capons-livers, Truffles, pounded
Lard and other eaoning Ingredients. When the Pie is ready :
to be ferv'd up, fome good Gravy of Veal or Mutton mut be
ureferv'd
into it, with the Juice of a Lemmon; and ome Capers mut
for the Pan-pie.
:
:

As for the Ragoo; after having drawn your Larks, fry them .
in Lard with a little Flower, and afterwards tew them in an :
Earthen Pan, in Broth, with white Wine, Dates cut into pieces,
candy'd Lemmon-peel, Pistachoes, Cinnamon, Pepper, Salt and
Prunelloes ; adding Lemmon-juice when ready to be brought
to Table. They may be garnih'd with the fame Things, and
ferv'd up with hort Sauce.
It will not be worth the while to oberve, that fat Larks are
fometimes roated; it being a very common Dih,
For Potages of Larks, ee the Letter P.

L E G s.
The Court and Coantry Cook. I 43

L a G s.

Altho' there is mothing more common than a Leg of Mutton


or Veal, yet they may be dres'd after feveral manners, o as
to give good fatisfation, and even to grace the mot umptu
ous Tables. -

Legs of Mutton.
A Side-dih of a farced Leg of Mutton.
As foon as your Leg of Mutton is dres'd, take away all the
Meat, o as nothing may remain but the Bones ticking toge
ther: Then clear this Meat from the Fat, and mince it with
boil'd Bacon, a little Sewer, or Marrow, ome fine Herbs,
Chibbol, Parfly, a little piece of Calves-udder, the Crum of
Loaf foak'd in good Broth, two whole Eggs and two feparate
Yolks. Thus, all being well minc'd and feaon'd, let the Bone
belaid in the Dih, that is to be ferv'd up, fo as the mallend
ofthe Leg may appear; one half of this Godivoe being put round
abour. Afterwards, having made a hollow place of the hape
of the Leg, and aving dipt your Fingers in a beaten Egg, that
nothing may tick to them, fill up that place with a Ragoo
of all forts of Garnitures, well boil'd, train'd and eaon'd; as
alo, the rest of the vacancy with the Farce, which may up
ply the place of a real Leg. Then having breaded the whole
: Mes, it into the Oven, to give it a colour, and afterwards,
when drawn, take away the Fat, that lyes round about the
Dih. Lastly, pour in a mall quantity of a well-eaon'd Cul
lis, thro' a little hole on the top, and cover it again, to be ferv'd
up hot to Table.

Another way of dreing a Leg of Mutton.


Another middling Side-dih may be made of a large farced
Leg of Mutton with Cream. Having boned it, take the Fleh,
with a piece of Veal, another of Bacon, ome Leaf-fat out of
a Hog's Belly and Beef-fewer, and let all be well minc'd to
gether; adding a little Chibbol and Parly chopt, with two or
three Rocamboles, a little weer Bafil and Thyme, all well ea
fon'd, with Pepper, Salt, Spice and a few coinar CI1
I44 The Court and Country Cook. -

Then mingle and beat the whole Masin a Mortar, with Cream,
Yolks of Eggs and Bread-crum; tuff the Bone with this Farce
in the Shape of a Leg; wah it over with the White of an Egg,
covering the top with Bread-crum; and give it its due Forum, if
you pleae, with the Back of a Knife. . Let it be bak'd in a Sil
ver-dih or in a Baking-pan, with Bards or thin Slices of Bacon
laid underneath; but your Farce mut be made very trong, left
it hould break, or fall in the Oven. The Dih may be garnihd
with Petits-patez or little Pies, farced Veal-cutlers, marinated
Chickens, or any other proper Garniture ; taking care, that all.
be well dres'd and brought to a fine colour. |

A middling Side-dih may alo be made of a Leg of Mutton


farc'd in its Skin,and dres'd in a Ragoo with Artichoke-bottoms,
Veal-weet-breads, Truffles, Muhrooms, Capons-livers and A
paragus tops, all well eaon'd. . It ought to be garnih'd with
little Rolls of Fennel and farced Poupiets, and prinkled with
Lemmon-juice, when ferv'd up to Table. :

A Leg of Mutton drefi'd la Royale.


Having taken away the Fat from a good Leg of Mutton,
with the Fleh round about the mall End, let it be beaten and
larded with thick Slips of Bacon; a piece of Buttock-beef or
of Veal may alo be larded with it at the fame time. Let all be
well eaon'd, let the Leg and the other Meat be flowerd, and
let them be brought to a colour with fome melted Lard: Then
being put into a Pot with all forts of fine Herbs, an Onion ftuck
with Cloves, fome good Broth, or Water; let them be cloe co
verd, and boil'd for a coniderable time. In the mean while,
a proper Ragoo is to be made, with Muhrooms, Truffles, Arti.
choke-bottoms,Aparagus-tops, Veal-weet-breads; all well pre
par'd, and enrich'd with a good Cullis. Afterwards having ta- ,
ken your Leg out of the Pot, dres it in a Dih, and cut your
pieces of Beefor Veal, very neatly into Slices, to make a Bor
der round about ; o as the Bacon may appear on the Slices.
Laftly, the Ragoo mut be pour'd upon it calding-hot; but if
you would have the Leg take its whole relih, when it is almost
ready, let it be tew'd a little while in the faid Ragoo, and ferv'd
up in the fame manner. It may alo be garnih'd wirh larded
Fricandoe's or Scotch-Collops and Marinade. -

/ Ang
TTCourt and Country Cook. I 45

- Another Side-dih of a Leg of Mutton.


- Take a Leg of Mutton, and having cut off the Fat, as be
fore, let it be wll larded and eaon'd ; it may alo be larded
with raw Gammon. Then provide a Pot with fome Bards or thin
Slices of Bacon, and Stakes of Beef or Veal and fet them in order
therein, as it were for baking or tewing between two Fires:
Ler the Leg be put into this Pot, and let a Fire be kindled both
underneath and on the top; fo as to bring it to a fine colour.
Afterwards take out the Bards and the other Meat, and drain
them a little from the Fat, but let the Leg of Mutton be till
left for fometime; whilt you put as much Flower as may be
taken up between your Fingers, round about the Pot, and caue
it to take a colour with the Leg: As foon as it is colour'd, put
the Meat in again, that was taken out, with good Gravy and
a little Water, keep, the Pot cloe cover'd, and make an end
of boiling all together. As for the Sauce, it ought to be fame
, what thick; otherwie a Cullis mut be pour'd into it, made of
the Meat which about the Leg , pounded , and
ftrain'd with good Gravy. To thee may be added all forts of
Garniture, particularly, Aparagus, Morilles, and common Muh- :
rooms, and let ali boito , as alo fome Truffles, Cocks- a
combs and Veal-weet-breads, if they may be conveniently pro- * ''
cur'd. :::When every thing is ready, dres the Leg after the
uual manner, letithe Ragoo be well cleard from the Fat, and
t a little Verjuice into it.: The Dih may be garnih'd with
arced Cutlets of Mutton or Veal, as is before pecified.

A zsef nam instarih surso and cannieri.


Let a Leg of Murton be roasted, taking care that it be not
one too much, whilst a Ragoo is preparing with Succory, that
is calded a little and cut into pieces. Take fome Lard, make it
fomewhat brown, with Flower and gocd Gravy, and let all be
well feafon'd ; adding a Faggot of fine Herbs and a few drops of
Vinegar : Then let your Succory be beil'd, fo as not to turn
black, but that it may have a fomewhat strng Savour, and let
it be put under the Leg. The fame Thing may be done with
Cucumbers, but they mut be marinated, cut into mall Slices,
and afterwards dres'd in the fame manner. If you would not
have the Leg ferv'd up whole, it may be cut into thin Slices, and .
. . put
146 The Court and Country Cook.
put into the fame Ragoo ; taking care that they do not boil to
ether, and that the Sauce be not either too thick or too thin.
all be well clear'd from the Fat and brought hot to Ta
le.
A roasted Leg of Mutton may alo be ferv'd up with Robert
Sauce, Capers and Anchovies, either for Out-works, or even for
a Side-dih, when fer out with proper Garnitures, and a Shoul
der of Mutton may be dres'd after all the manners that hve
been before-decrib'd for a Leg.

Legs of Weal.
Having already mewn howa Leg of Veal may be dres'd in a
Daube, under the Letter D; we hall here explain fome other
Preperations that may be made with that Joint of Meat, viz.
A farced Leg of Veal,
The Farce must be made of the fame Fleh, with Sewet, Ba
con, fine Herbs, Chibbols, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Yolks ofraw.
Eggs and Muhrooms, and when 'tis ow'd up, ler it boil. in
d Broth. Thus a Side-dih may be made of it, or ir may
e ferv'd up in Porage; adding a Cullis of poach'd Yolks of
Eggs and Almonds, train'd thro' a Sieve, with the fame Broth.
When the Dih is ready to be ferv'd up, let ome Lemmon-juice
and good Gravy be put therein ; garnihing it with Muhrooms
farced and ragoo'd, or any Thing ele that you have at Hand ;
as Cutlets, Veal-weet-breads, &c. - -

A Leg of Veal lEtoufade, or stew'd in a Pan.


Let your Leg of Veal be larded with thick Slips of Bacon,
and fried a while in a Frying-pan: Then tew it in an earthen
Pan, with Muhrooms, a Spoonful of Broth and a Glas of
white Wine; eaoning it with Pepper, Salt, a Faggor of fine
Herbs, Cloves and Nurmeg. When it is ready, let fome Flower
be fryd to thicken the Sauce, and garnih it with fryd Bread,
y a DiCs
*** and Lemmon-juice, as it is ferving up to
-

1 sM
***
The Court and Country Cook. 147

L = M u o N s.
To preerve Lemmon-peel dry.
Take Lemmons, andlet them bewellturn'd with clean Hands,
to the end that your Fruit may be always kept white: Then
cut them into quarters taking away all the inner Rind, and or
der them fo as their Pulp may be very thin: Let them be teept
in fair Water, and afterwards calded in hot Water; but care
muft be taken, that they be not done either too much or too lit
tle: Throw them again into freh Water, and having prepar'd
fme Syrop with clarified Sugar, let them bil a little therein :
Eer rhemlye by a while, and then letrhem be laid upon a Grate
or Hurdle, to dry up their moiture. In the mean time, haying
boil'd up your Sugar, till it become a littl feather'd, put the
Lemmon-peels into it with a Table-fork, but be careful that
the Liquor be not toothick. When they are ufciently boil'd,
take them out, leave them again on the Grate to be dried,and
let thein be well ied. Ther are feveral other Ways of prefer
vitig Lemmon-peels, which we hall pas by at preent; as be
ing the Bufines of Confetioner, rather than of a Cook.
'L E N r 1 1 s.
A Cullis of Lentls has been already decrib'd under the Let
ter C, and for Lentil-potage, it may readily be found among
the other Potages under P. -
A
i

' ,. . , E 'r r I C E.

To farce Lettice la Dame Simonne.


Let headedor Cabbage-lettice, be only heated a little infcald
ing Water, and well drain'd: Then taking the Fleh of roast
Caporis and Chiekens, mince it with fome pieces of boil'd
Gammon, Muhrooms and fine Herbs: Let all be well eaon'd,
and put into a Stew-pan, with two HandfulsofBread-crum, and
four or five Eggs, actording to the nature of the Farce. . The
Lettice, when tuff'd with it in the middle, mut be well tied or
fow'd up, and boil'd in good Broth: In the mean while, a good
White Sauce being duely prepar'd, feveral Yolks of Eggs,
- 2. 1o
----

148 The Court and Country Cook.


fo as it may not turn, take your Lettice and after having tho
roughly drain'd and untied them, put them into this Sauce, to
be kept hot. They are uually ferv'd up for Out-works and
fometimes among the Side-dihes.
The Soops of farced Fowls are alo garnih'd with the fame
fort of Lettice; and the Lettice, on Fih-days, are commonly
ftuff'd with a good Fih-farce, or with Herbs and Eggs.
L E v E R E r s.

Leverets or young Hares larded. :

Let one Shoulder with one Leg of your Leverets be larded,


and the others left in their natural condition. Then havin
roasted them, let them be ferv'd up, with Sweet Sauce, or elfe
with Vinegar and Pepper, and garnih'd with Marinade.
A Leveret drefi'd after the Swis Mode. *

Having cut a Leveret into quarters, and larded them with


thick Slips of Bacon, let them boil in ome Broth, feaon'd with
Pepper, Salt, Cloves and a little Wine. Then fry the Liver
and the Blood with fome Flower, and mingle all together; ad
ding a little Vinegar, toned Olives, Capers and Lemmon-lices
for their Garniture.
*

Leveret-potage, after the Italian manner.


Let the Leveret be cut into quarters; larded with thick
Slips of Bacon, and fried in Lard: Then let them be ftew'd in
good Broth, fuch as is decrib'd in the Article of Broth, with
Lemmon-peel, Cinnamon,Salt and a little white
Wine : Latly, let the whole Mes be dres'd upon the foaked .
Cruts, and ferv'd up to Table, with Lemmon-juice, garnihd
with Pomegranate-licesor Kernels.
Pi For Leveret-pies, fee the Letter P. among the other forts of
1CS.

L I Q. U o R s, fee Broth.

L 1
The Court and Country Cook. 149

L 1 v E R s.

An Interme of Capons-livers dref'din a Val-caul.


: Take the larget and leanet Capons-livers and having minc'd
them, with fome parboil'd Bacon, a little Sewer and Marrow,
Truffles, Muhrooms, and Veal-weet-breads; alo a little Parly,
Chibbol and boil'd Gammon, let the whole Farce be bound
with the Yolk of an Egg. Then cut a Veal-caul into pieces, ac
cording to the thicknes of your Livers, fo as they may be con
veniently roll'd up in them ; and let fome of the Farce be put
upon the Caul, then a Liver upon that, and afterwards the Farce
again thereupon, and take care that all, be well wrapt up in
the Caul. Thee Livers fo dres'd are to be laid upon a Sheet
of Paper in order to be broil'd upon the Grid-iron, with a little
Lard ; or ele in a Baking-pn and fet into an Oven. When
they are ready, let them be taken out, thoroughly drain'd from
the Fat, and dres'd in a Dih, with a little hot Broth pour'd up
on them: Afterwards eaon them with Pepper and Salt, and
TO J1 a DIC.
era
in the Juice of an Orange, ferve them up hot

An Interme of Capons-livers and Muhrooms. r

After having well cleans'd your Livers from the Gall, take a
Baking-pan, lay fome Bards or thin Slices of Bacon on the Bot
tom of it, and the Livers upon them : Let them be feafon'd and
cover'd with other Bards on the top, and then fet into the Oven;
taking care that they be not too much dry'd. Let ome Muh
rooms well pickt andwah'd bepurinto a Dih;with a little Bacon
and Verjuice,having before caus'd their moiture to be dry'd up,
by fetting them on the Fire, and let fome Slices of Gammon be
fried a-part, with a little Lard and Flower, and a Bunch of fine
Herbs: Afterwards pour in ome good Veal-gravy, that is not
Salt, and tew it with the Muhrooms and Livers well drain'd,
in the fame Sauce. Latly let it be incorporared with fom
good thickening Liquor, if there be occaion, and when the Fat
istaken away, add a little Vinegar, and let it be erv'd up hot to
Table. , The Dih may be garnifh'd with what you pleaie, pro
videditbe fomething that is proper for Intermestes.
v

- L 3 - Cap ms
*-*=--~--------z.

15o The Court and Country Cook.


Capons-livers drefd otherwife for Intermeffes.
Having provided fome good Capons-livers with a Baking-pan;
for every Liver prepare a thin Slice of Bacon, and fet them in
order feparately in the Pan, laying the Livers upon them, when
well feaon'd : Let them alo be cover'd with another Slice of
Bacon, and dextrouly breaded, to the end that they may be well
bak'd and brought to a fine colour : When they are drawn
out of the Oven, let them be ufficiently drain'd, and neatl
laid in a Dih : Latly fome good Gravy may be added
the Juice of an Orange, and fo let it be immediately brought
hot to Table. -

Capons-livers with Gammon.


Let fome Gammon be cut very mall, and fry'd brown,with
your Livers, alo a young Chibboland a little Parly well chopt :
When they are eaon'd as much as requiite, let them boil over
a gentle Fire, with a piece of Lemmon, and ferve them up
with good Gravy for Out-works and Intermees.
Capons-livers drefd between two Fires.
Having trew'd your Livers with Pepper and fine Salt, cover
them with a thin Slice of Bacon and a piece of Paper, which
mut bewer a little on the top,tokeep them from burning: Then
tye up the Livers and putting them between two Fires, let them
be ftew'd by degrees, and ferv'd up to Table, with Gravy.
Another Interme of Capons-livers.
When the Livers are well clear'd from the Gall, and calded
*
a little, put them into fair Warer afterwards with the fame Wa #
!
ter into a Dih, and let them be well eaon'd. Then chopping a
few Muhrooms, Truffles, Parly and Chibbol, let all boil toge
ther. As for the Livers, they are to be wrapt up in thin Slices of
Bacon, as before, and fet into an Oven, till they come to a fine
colour ; but if it be not ufficiently done, it may be brought to
erfection, with the red-hot Fire-howel. When it is ready to be
erv'd up, drain the Fat well off, fet the Livers in order in a
Dih, and pour a little Gravy upon them, with the Juice of one
or two Oranges. - L O A V E s,
=== =======astas
The Court and Country Cook. I 5*

L o A v E s, fee P A 1 N s.
L o B s r E R s.

It were needles to infift on the manner of making a Lobter


hah,as being common with thatofother Hahes of the likenature:
In order to dres them in a Sallet, it would be requiite only to
oberve what has been laid down Pag. 41, concerning the other
Fih-fallets ; adding to the Sauce of this fort, the infide of the
Lobter's Body. They are alo prepar'd in a Ragoo, and in Po
tages, taking away the Shells, after they are boil'd ; neither is
there any difficulty in this Matter, provided the Diretions bei
follow'd, that are given elewhere in feveral Places, for the or
dering of other forts of Fih, -

M.
M A c K A R E L. W -

WH" the Mackarel are gutted, lit orcut them a littlealong


the Back, and caue them to take Salt, with Oil, Pepper,
fine Salt and Fennel. They may be alo wrapt up in the fame
green Fennel, in order to be roated ; whilt a Sauce is prepa
ring for them, with burnt Butter, fine Herbs chopt finall, Nut
meg, Salt, Fennel, calded Gooeberries in their Seafon, apers
and a little Vinegar. Then they are to be ferv'd up to Table,
and garnih'd with Slices of Lemmon.
They may alo be dres'd in Potage, when they have been
well fry'd before in refined Butter, and afterwards laid a foak
ing in a Stew-pan, with good Fih-broth or Herbs: Let thern
be garnih'd with a Ragoo of Muhrooms, Capers, Gravy and
Slices of Lemmon.
(

M A R 1 N A B E s.
Several Things are put into a Marinade or Pickle, eitherfor
the garnihing of other Mees, or to make a particular Dih.
Fricasties of Chickens are uually garnih'd with other marina
ted Chickens; a Marinade of Veal ferves to garnih farced
Breats of Weal, or roated Loins f Veal, and o of the rest ;
1- 4 aS

- v .
152 The Court and Country Cook.
as Pigeons, Partridges and others, with which eparate Services
may be prepard for Side-dihes. Let us here give ome Account
of what is mot obervable under this Article. -

A Marinade of Chickens.
Let your Chickens be cut into quarters, and marinated, with
Lemmon-juiceand Verjuice, or with Vinegar,Pepper,Salt,Cloves,
Chibbols and a Bay-leaf or two. Leave them in this Marinade
for the pace of three Hours, and having made a fort of clear
Pate or Batter, with Flower, white Wine and the Yolks of
Eggs, dip your Chickens into it : Then fry them in Lard, and
let them be ferv'd up in form of a Pyramid, with fryd Parfly
and Sliees of Lemmon, if you deign to make a particular Dih
of them.

A Marinade of Pigeons.
Pigeons ought to be marinated in Lemmon-juice, and Ver
juice, as before, with the other Ingredients; after having flit
them on the Back, or cut them into quarters, to the end that
the Marinade may penetrate into the Fleh. Thus they are to
be left three or four Hours in Pickle and afterwards dipt into
Paste,or flower'd when all over Wet; in order tobe gently fried.
They may be ferv'd up with fried Parlyftrew'd upon them, and
round about the Dih, adding a little Roe-vinegar and white
Pepper. -

- -

A Marinade of Partridges. -

Let the Partridges be cut into two pieces and steept in a


Marinade, as the preceding Particulars: They mut alo be
fryd after the fame manner, and ferv'd up to Table with Gar
lick-vinegar and white Pepper.

A Marinade of Veal.
This fort of Marinade is likewie prepard in order to garnih
other Dihes, cutting the Veal into Slices, as it were for Frican
does or Scotch Collops, and fo of the other Things that are to
be marinated. For marinated Mutton-cutlets, ee the last Article
of Cutlets under the Letter C.
A
The Court and Country Cook. I 53

A Marinade of Fih.
Some forts of Fih are uually put into a Marinade and Tor
1 oies among others. . As foon as they are drefs'd, let them be
fteept in Vinegar, with Pepper, Salt and Chibbols: Then let
them be flowerd, fry'd in refined Butter, and erv'd up with
fryd Parly, white Pepper and Orange-juice.
Another fort of Marinade for Fih, may be made, after they
have been fried, in this manner : Let fome Slices of Lemmon
or Orange be put into the Frying-pan with Bay-leaves, refined
Butter, Chibbols, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Vinegar, and let
this Sauce be pour'd upon the Fih ; fuch as Soles, Congers,
Pilchards,Tunnies cut into round Slices, &c. Other forts of Fih
Marinades may alo be found in the Article of Porages, which are
fet down in the General Table of the Meffes.

M A U v 1 E r r E s.

Befides that for roated Mauviettes, recoure may be had to


the Article of Roast-meats ; under the Letter R; a Side-dih
may be prepard of farced Mauviettes with Mustard, as ap
pears from the Example Pag, 28, and a Potage of Mauviettes,
with brown Broth. . '
- - ..

M E N U s - D R o 1 r s or M 1 N E - D R o 1 r.

Dihes, or Out-works of Menus-droits are made for Interme.


fes, of different Things, and among others, of an Ox-palate, cut
into thin Slices: After having fryd them in Lard with Parly,
fmall Chervil, Thyme, a whole Chibbol, Pepper, Salt, Broth
and white Wine ; they are to be laid a foaking in a Pot or Dih,
and the Sauce is to be thicken'd with Bread-chippings : adding
Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice, when ferv'd up to Table.
The Menus-droits of a Stag and others are dres'd after the
fame manner.

M = R 1 N c u = s.
Meringues properlybelong onlyto the Confectioner's Art; but
foramuch as Cooks fometimes have occaion to ufe them, for
the garnihing of feveral Things; it may not be improper her
to hew the manner of making them, - To.
I 54 The Court and Country Cook.
To that purpoe, take three or four new-laid Eggs, accord
ing to the quantity of Meringue: r uird to be ; referve
the Whites, and whip them till they form a rocky Snow. Then
you are to put to them a little green Lemmon grated, with
three or four poonfuls of fine Sugar pas'd thro' the Sieve, and
let all be whipt together ; a little prepar'd Amber may alo be
added: Afterwards take ome white Paper, and with a Spoon
make your Meringues of a round or oval Figure, accordingly
as you hall think fit, about the thicknes of a Walnut ; leaving
fome Ditance between every one of them: In the mean while,
let fome powder'd Sugar be put into the end of a Napkin, and
Rrew the Meringues with it. On the fame Table, where they
are dres'd, may be laid the cover of a Campain-oven, that has
not been put into the Fire, but only has had ome Fire upon it,
and the Meringues may be cover'd with it, to give them a kind
of Ah-colour; but no Fire mut be put underneath : When
they are bak'd and wellic'd, let them be taken off from the Pa
. You may alo put in a little Fruit, as a Rasberry, Straw
or Cherry, according to the Seaon, and joyn other Me
ringues to them, to make Twins.
Pistachoe-Meringues.
Take a handful or two of Pistachoes, and let them be well
Icalded: After having whipt the Whites of Eggs, as for the pre
ceding Meringues, and having beaten all together, with fine
Sugar; put in the Pitachoes, the Water being well drain'd
from them, and with a little Spoon, make the Meringues of
what thicknes you pleae; icing them in the fame manner. If
you are not defirous to have them ic'd, their natural colour will
be as white as Paper. Thee Meringues may ferve to garnih all
forts of Pan-pies for Intermees, and chiefly thoe of March
pane.

M 1 L K - P o r A G E, fee G R U E L,
M I R o r o N s.
A Miroim is uually ferv'd up for a Side-dih, and may be
made feveral ways; among others thus: Take a good Fillet of
Veal, and cut it into feveral very thin Slices, which are to be
bearen on the Dreffer with a Cleaver: Another Fillet of
- - * - Millit

v
The Court and Country Cook. I 55
must alo be provided, which is to be minc'd with parboil'd
Bagn, fome Sewet, a little Marrow, Muhrooms, Truffles and
Hae Herbs, all well eaon'd : To thee add two or three Yolks
f Eggs, and, as foon as the Farce is made, take a round Stew
pan, that is not too large: Lay fome Bards or thin Slices of
Bacon in good order on the bottom, then the Veal-takes that
were beaten, and ar last the Farce, which mut be cover'd on
the top, with the ret of the Slices, and all mut be well topt
up. Afterwards let the Bacon-Bards be turn'd, and, having well
cover'd the whole Mes, let it be bak'd or stew'd la Braife,
that is to ay, between two gentle Fires, one on the top and the
other underneath: When it is ready, let it be well clear'd from .
the Fat, and laid upide-down in a Dih; adding, if you pleae,
a little Cullis, before it is ferv'd up hot to Table,

Mirotons drefd after another manner.


Some Cooks prepare a well thicken'd Godivoe of the fame
nature as that for a Poupeton, and afterwards make a Border
9f it, round about the Dih, made of the Whites of Eggs, as
it were for Milk-porage : Then they wah ir over with beaten
Eggs; and, having neatly breaded it, bring it to a colour in
the Oven ; taking away all the Far when it is dres'd. In the
mean while, an Earthen Pan mut be fill'd with a Breat of Mut
ton, cut into pieces, the craggy end of a Neck of Mutton,
young streaked Bacon, Pigeons and Quails, as occaion may
ferve. All thee being well bak'd or tew'd in the Pan, as it
were la Braife, between two Fires ; prepare fome strained
green Peae, or Aparagus-tops, according to the Seafon; take
your Meats aut of the Pan ; let the Liquor be well drain'd
from them ; and put them into a Dih, with the Peae on the
z top: To thee may be added fome Letrice, fcalded and boil'd
in the fame Sauce, and then let all be ferv'd up hot to Table.
Intead of the Earthen Pan, when the Border is only left, all
forts of good Rago's are to be pour'd in the middle. A Mut
ton-hah may alo be put to them, with Mutton-gravy and Lem
mon-juice, when ready to be fet on the Table.
To make another Miroton.

. Take Truffles, Muhrooms and beil'd Gammon, and ler all


be well minc'd together: Then let them be put into a Stew
pan, 4
; 56 The Court and Country Cook.
pan, with two or three Anchovies, according to the bignes o
your Miroton; leta handful of Capers be well chopt and throwr
into the fame Miroton : As foon as you perceive it to be almost
ready, put your Hah into a Stew-pan, with a little Parly,Chib
bol and Lard, all well dres'd; foak it with ome Gravy; pour
in a little Cullis; and let it boil; taking care that it be not tot
thick. Afterwards, having provided fome tender and lear
Beef, cut it into mall Slices, omewhat larger than if it were
for a Filet, with Cucumbers, and put them into the Ragoo: Sti
it very little, and let it not boil too much. Before it is ferv'd
up, let ome Lemmon-juice be queez'd in, and let the Dih be
artificially dres'd.
To make a Mroton for Fih-days.
Take four or fix Whitings, according to the bignes of your
Dih, and let them be crap'd and well wah'd ; they must alo
be flit all along before, but care mut be taken that their Back
be not poil'd. Take away the Bones, cut off the Heads, and
fpread them upon a Table or Dreffer. Then, having made a
ood Fih-farce, according to the above-pecified Diretions, put
ome of it upon every Whiting; and roll them up, as it were,
Filets-mignons. Afterwards, taking a Stew-pan, or a round
Earthen Pan, without a Handle, make an Omelet or Pancake.
with a little Flower, which being entire, may cover the whole
bottom of the Pan, and let your farced Fih be laid upon it;
a little Butter being first put under the faid Pancake. When
the Fih is thus fet in order with fome Truffles and Muhrooms
well eaon'd, another Pancake mut be made, to be laid on the
fo as it may in like manner take up the whole compas
of the Pan. Let the Stew-pan be well coverd, to the end that
the Fih may be tew'd by degrees, between two gentle Fires,
on the top and underneath ; and take care that nothing tick to
the bottom. The whole Mes being thus made ready, let the
Burrer be drain'd off, and the Miroton turn'd upide-down into .
a Plate or Dih: Then, cutting a mall round piece out of the
middle, as if it were a Poupeton, pour in a mall Muhroom
cullis, and cover it again with the fame piece. Latly, when :
the Fat is thoroughly taken away, rub the fide of the Dih with ,
a Shalot, and ferve it up hot to Table.
A Farce may alo be prepard in the fame manner as for the
Poupeton hereafter , and a Ring or Border maymad
W
TTT T775 Cook. 157
lade with it round about the Dih; which is to be bak'd in
in Oven and fill'd with a good Ragoo of Moufferons, Morilles,
ammon Muhrooms, Truffles and Anchovies, all well chopt
gether, as alo all forts ffin and Capers; making a
ray of Ragoo and another of Filets, till the whole Space be
lld up. Then let it be fer a foaking over a gentle Fire, and
'rv'd up, with the Ragoo-auce and Lemmon-juice.
M o R 1 L L E s.

Foramuch as it will be requifite in the following Article


if Muhrooms, to hew how they may be preerv'd, and in
egard that the Diretions there laid down, may alo ferve for
Morilles and Moufferons, as differing from them only in pecie;
t may be ufficient here only to take notice of the particular
that may be made of them for Out-works or Inter
:Tlfl{ES,

Morilles in a Ragoo.
Meriles may be fryd brown with Butter or Lard, after they
have been cut long-ways and well wah'd. Then it will be
requiite to put to them fome Salt, Parfly and Chervil chopt
very mall, Chibbol, Nutmeg and a littl Broth, and to lay them
a oaking in a little Pot or Stew-pan: Let them be ferv'd up
to Table with hort Sauce and Lemmon-juice.
They may be alo put into Cream and otherwie dres'd, as
well as common Muhrooms.

Fried Morilles.
Let your Morilles be cut long-ways, as before, and boil'd in
a little good Broth, over a gentle Fire. When the Broth is -
fomewhat wated, let them be flowerd and fryd in Lard. In
the mean time, having prepar'd a Sauce, with the ret of the
Broth, eaon'd with Salt and Nutmeg, pour it under your
Marilles, with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice. -

. Farced Morilles are alo ued in Potage, and Tourtes or Pan


pies may be made of them, which hall be hereafter pecify'd
among thoe of common Muhrooms.

M o u s
158 The Court and Country Cook.
M o U s s E R o N s.

s Moufferons in a Ragoo.
After having well cleans'd your Maffirm, letthem bewafd
a little, and hak'd in a Linnen-eleath: Then stew them in a
Dih or Stew-pan, with Butter or Lard, a Bunch of Herbs,
Salt and Nutmeg, and thicken the Sauce with Yolks of Eggs
and Flower or Bread-chippings: When it is ready to be ferv'd
up, fqueez in ome Lemmon-juice and garnih it with Slices of
the fame. ,--

M U L L E r s.
/
/ -

Let your Mullers be broid upon a Grid-iron, after they are


fcal'd, cut and rubb'd with Butter; whilt a Sauce is prepring :
for them with burnt Butter, fryd Capers, Lemmon- :
flices, a Faggot of Herbs, Pepper, Salt, utmeg and Verjuice, .
or Orange-juice.
They may be alo fried in refined Burrer, and theri put into
a Dih, with Anchovies, Capers, Orange-juice, Nutmeg, and i
a little of the fame Butter in which they were dresd; having :
before rubb'd the Dih, with a Shalor, or a Clove of Garlick :
Lastly, Mullets may be put into a Tourte or Pan-pi, and
more epecially into a tanding Pie, as well as many other forts :
of Fih:

M U s c L E s.

Mucles are generally put into a Ragoo, either with white ;


or brown Sauce, and a very confiderable Ptage may be made
of them: The Ragoo with white Sauce is prepar'd in this man- ,
ner, viz. -

er the Mucles be taken out of their Shells, and fried in


narural Burter, with Thyme and other fine Herbs chopt very
fmall: Afterwards feafon them with Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg,
and when their Liquoris conum'd, put in Yolks of Eggs with
Verjuice or Lemmon-juice; garnihingthe Dih, with the Shells
and fry'd Bread.
The Ragoo with brown Sauce is made after the fame man-
ner ; except that no Eggsare to be put into it, but only a little
, fryd Flower, - - Mucle
/
The Court and Country Cook. I 59

Austientar.
Take good Mucles ; let them be well cleans'd and wah'din
four or five Waters: Then put them into a Pot with Water,
which may ferve for the Broth, if there be not other good Fih
broth at Hand : Add to your Mucles, a little Parly, weet
Butter, and an Onion tuck with Cloves, and cald them till the
Shells open, which fignifies, that they are ufficiently done; but
let the Liquor or Broth be pour'd into another Pot a-part :
Take the Mucles out of their Shells and only leave a few to
garnih your Potage ; whilt the Fleh of the others is put into
a little Pot or Stew-pan. Afterwards you must throw in ome
Muhrooms cut into pieces, Truffles in Slices, and Carp-roes,
with a whole Artichoke-bottom, if you have no mind to farce
a Loaf with a Carp-hah; that is to ay, the Artichoke bottom
must be referved entire to be laid in the middle of the Potage,
and three orfour other Artichke-bottomsare to be cutinto Quar
ters: Having tos'dupthis whole Ragoo ina Stew-pan,with
Butter and a little Flower, let it be foak'd in the Mucle-broth,
and boil'd a little while: Leta Faggot of fine Herbs be added,
with a Slice or two of Lemmon; all being tewd by degreesand
well eaon'd. Then lay your Potage and Cruts of Bread a foak
ing with the fame Mucle-broth, which must not be too fat:
Garnih your Dih with the Mucles that were laid by in their
Shells, and if you have a farced Loaf, leave fome alo to ferve
for Garniture round about it. When the Potage is thus thorough
lyfoakd, and the Ragoo pour'd thereupon, a white Cullis mut
be prepar'd with Almonds, Bread-crum, and fix or eight Yolks
ofggs, all train'd thro' the Hair-fieve, with a little of the fame
- -broth ; taking care that it do not turn, norbe too much
eaon'd with with Salt; Laftly, having prinkled your Potage,
with this white Cullis, letibe ferv'd up hot to Table.
* M u s H R o o M s.

- Muhrooms are of great ue in Ragoo's; eparate Dihes and


* Potages are alo made of them for Intermees; o that it is ab
olutely neceary to be always provided with good Store of
* them for that purpoe, and they well deerve a particular De
fcription in this Place. .
A

Fried
To The Court and Country Cook.

Fried Muhrooms.
Having tos'd up your Muhrooms in a Stew-pan, with a
little Broth, to take away their biternes, strew them with fine
Salt, a little Pepper and Flower, and fry them in Lard., They
may be ferv'd up to Table, with Beeftakes, Parly and Lern
mon-juice, for ntermees; or elfe they may be ued for the
garnihing of fome other Dih. * -

Muhrooms in a Ragoo.
Let the Muhrooms be cut into Slices, and fried in Lard or
Butter, eaoning them, with Salt, Nutmeg and a Bunch of
Herbs: The Sauce may be thicken'd with a little Flower, Yolks
of Eggs and Lemmon-juice. - * - ~,

Muhrooms dref'din Cream and otherwife.


Having cut your Muhrooms into pieces, and fryd them in
Butter over a quick Fire, let them be eaon'd with Salt, Nut
meg and a Faggot of Herbs. When they are ready, and very
little Sauce is left, pour ome natural Cream upon them, and
let them be ferv'd up to Table. * -

They may alo be put into a Baking-pan, with Lard or But


ter, Parly and Thyme chopt very mall and whole Chibbols;
after they have been feaon'd with Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg : .
Thus they may be bak'd in the Oven as it were a Pan-pie, till
they become very brown ; let them alo be well breaded ; in
order to be ferv'd up with Slices and Juice of Lemmon, and
garnih'd with Parly. -

Potage of farced Muhrooms.


Leta Farce be made with Veal, Beef-marrow and Lard; fea-
fon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and the Crum of a Loaf foak'd
in Broth or in Yolks of Eggs. Stuff your Muhrooms with this
Farce, and bake or tew them in an Earthen Pan, with Salt, a
Bunch of Herbs and ome Broth: When they are ready, let
them be dres'd upon the foaked Crufts, and garnih'd with
Chickens-livers in a Ragoo, fried Muhrooms and Lemmon
juice, as they are ferving up to Table.
- -

v They
e
The Court and Country Cook. 161
They may alo be garnih'd with Veal-weet-breads, larded
Fricandoe's, Cocks-combs and Truffles, and a Profitrolle loaf may
be fet in the middle, farced with Muhrooms, Artichoke-bot
toms, and Veal-weet-breads, all cut into pieces in form of a
Die, and dres'd in a Ragoo. . A white or brown Cullis may
be prepar'd for both, but the latter is mot proper. The Beef
FVeal, of which you would have the Cullis or Gravy to be
made, mut be pounded in a Mortar, with Cruts of Bread,
and strain'd thro' the Hair-ieve, with fome Broth, and then it
may be us'd for the Ragoo.
Other Potages are made of Muhrooms, with different forts
of Fowls, as Capons, Quails, &c. And on Days of Abti
nence, your Muhrooms may be farced to that purpoe, with
the Fleh of Fih, as for other Dihes.

To extrait the Juice of Muhrooms.


After having well cleans'd the Muhrooms, let them be put
into a Dih with a piece of Lard, or Butter, if it be a Fih-day;
and let them be brought to a brown colour over the Fire,till they
ftick to the bottom of the Dih: Then throw in a little Flower,
and let that alo be made brown with the Muhrooms: After
wards let fome good Broth be added, and let them be taken
off from the Fire ; putting that Gravy into a Pot a-part,eaon'd
with a piece of Lemmon and Salt, The Muhrooms may ferve,
either whole or chopt mall, for Potages, Side-dihes, or Inter
mees.

To Preferve Muhrooms.
Let your Muhrooms, as foon as they are well pickt and
wahd be ros'd up a little in a Stew-pan, with good Butter,
and eaon'd with all forts of Spice. Then put them into a
Pot with a little Brine and Vinegar, as alo, a great deal of But
ter on the top and let them be well cover'd : Before they are
us'd, they mut be thoroughly clear'd from the Salt, and then
they will be ferviceable upon all manner of Occafions.
, A.Powder may alo be made of them, when they are very
dry, and the fame thing may be done for the Moufferons or white
Muhrooms. To preferve the latter entire, let them be dryd in
an Oven, as Artichokes, after they have been calded in Water:
When they are dry, put them into a Place where there is no
M Moi
-- --


162 The Court and Country Cook.
Moiture, and when you would make ue of them, let them be
fteept in Luke-warm Water.
M U r r o N.

Among the feveral Meffes that may be prepar'd with Mur


ton, we already explain'd the different Manners of Dref
fing Legs for Side-dihes; and we have alo oberv'd what re
lates to Cutlets and Filets of Mutton under the Letters C and F.
In like manner, in the Second Article of Mirotons, mention is
made of an Earthen Pan fill'd with a Breaft of Mutton, the
fcraggy end of a Neck of Mutton and ome other forts of Meat;
o that it remains only here, to take notice of ome other Joynts
of Mutton that are proper for Side-dihes.

A great Side-dih of Mutton.


Take a Crupper of very tender Mutton, let the firt Skin be
dextrouly looen'd on the top to the mall end, and left hang
ing: Then having prepar'd fome thin Slices of Gammon, fea
fon'd with Parfly, Chibbol, and black Pepper, let them be
laid upon the Joint of Mutton, with fome Bards or thin Slices
of fat Bacon, and let the Skin be turn'd over them: Afterwards
let it be tied up and roated on a Spit, cover'd with Paper:
When it is ready, let it be neatly breaded, and garnih'd with
Mutton-cutlets: Latly, having pour'd an exquiite Ragoo
thereupon, let it be ferv'd up hot toTable.
The fame thing may be done with a Quarter of Mutton or
of Lamb.

Another Side-dih of a Quarter of Mutton.


Let it be farced on the Leg, with a .
or with a Ha
of the fame Meat that was taken out of it, according to the
Method before oberv'd in ordering a hort Rib of Beef in the
Article of Beef, or for a Salpicon hereafter explain'd under the
Letter S. Then let your Quarter of Mutton be breaded, and
fet into an Oven to be brought to a good colour: Let it alo be
garnih'd with fry'd Bread, marinated Cutlets and fried Parly,
and marbled with Lemmon-juice and its own Gravy.
Car2
*

The Com and Country Cook. 163

Carbonado'd Mutton.
- X

Let a Joint of Mutton cut into Carbonadoe's be fryd in a Pan


with Lard, before it is ftew'd in Broth, with Pepper, Salt, Cloves
| a Bunch of Herbs, Chenuts and Muhrooms; whilft fome
Flower is frying to thicken the Sauce: Then let the Dih be
# with Muhrooms and fried Bread, and ferv'd up, with
apers and Lemmon-juice.
/*
A Breast of Mutton. *

In order to dres a Breat of Mutton for an Out-work, let it


be stuff'd with Parfly and roated: Then let it be eaon'd with
Bread, white Pepper and Salt; adding the Juice of an Orange
and good Gravy, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
At another time, after the Breaft has been boil'd in a Pot, let
it be dipt into a clear Pate or Batter, and fryd in Lard : Then
adding ome Verjuice with the Grapes entire, and white Pepper,
it may be ferv'd up to Table.
Mutton-curlets, See the Article of Cutlets under the Let
ter U.

A Loin of Mutton la Sainte Menehout.


To dres a Loin of Mutton in this manner, fuch a Kettle or
Por muft be provided, as is convenient for that purpoe ; cover
ing the Bottom of it with good Bards or thin Slices of Bacon,
Veal-stakes,and Slices of Onion. Then let the Loin of Mutton be
laid upon them, which likewife mut becover'd with other Slices
of Veal and Bacon; all well eaon'd with fine Herbs and Spice.
Afterwards fet your Pot into an Oven, or between two Fires,
and let all be well bakd, but not over-done. When they are
drawn, or taken out, they mut be well breaded and broil'd up
on a Grid-iron ; whilft a Sauce call'd Ramolade is preparing,
with Anchovies, Capers cut mall, Parly and Chibbols chop
} a-part : Having ftew'd thee in good Gravy with a little
il, a Clove of Garlick and other eaoning pour
them upon the Loin, in order to be dres'd in a Dih, and ferv'd
up hot to Table. This Sauce may ferve for feveral forts of cold
Fowl, which are to be breaded and broil'd, and alo for many
other neceary ues. .
M 2 A
164 The Court and Country Cook.

A Loin of Mutton drefd after other manners.


A Loin of Mutton may be larded with thick Slips of Bacon,
and boil'd in a Pot a-part, with Water and a little whire Wine,
well eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Bay-leaves, Cloves, a Bunch of
Herbs, and a Slice of Lemmon. In the mean while, let fome
Capers and Anchovies be fried in Lard and a little Sauce in
which the Loin was dres'd, and let it be pour'd upon it when
ready to be ferv'd up to Table, with Lemmon-juice, or a little
Garlick-vinegar. F

Ar another time, when the Loin of Mutton is boil'd, take off


the Skin, and teep the Fleh in a fort of Batter made with
Flower, Yolks of Eggs, Pepper, Salt and Broth, in order to
be well fried in a Pan. It may be ferv'd up, with white Pep
per, Verjuice with the Grapes, and fried Parily.
Otherwife, after having raken off the Skin, let your Loin be
bated with Lard; breaded three feveral times, to produce a
fine Crut it in the Oven; and ic'd, by rubbing it with
the White of an Egg,

N.
N e A r s - r o N G U E s.

Neats-tongues bakd between two Fires.


HA ; cut off the Roots of your Neats-tongues, broi them
a little on the Coals, to the end that the Skin may more
eaily be peel'd off, and lard them with thick Slips of Ba
con and raw Gammon ; all well eaon'd. Let fome Bards,
or thin Slices of Bacon be laid in order on the bottom of a
Pot, with Beef-takes beaten, and the Tongues upon them, with
Slices of Onions, and all forts of fine # and Spices, eaon
ing them alo with Pepper and Salt:_Then having cover'd the
Tongues, with other Beef-takes and Bacon-Bards, in the fame
manner as they were underneath, fo as they may be well
wrapt up on all fides; fet the Pot between two Fires,that is tofay,
one on the top, and the other underneath. Let it continue there
in for the pace of eight or ten Hours, till the Meats are well
bak'd, or tew'd, and in the mean time, prepare a good Cullis of
Muhrooms, or fome other choice Ragoo, with all forts of Gar
- - nitures,
The Court and Country Cook. 165
nitures, viz. Muhrooms, Truffles, Veal-weet-breads, &c. When
the Tongues are taken out, ler them be drain'd, thoroughly
clear'd from the Fat, and drefs'd in a Dih ; turning the Ragoo
upon them. The Juice of a Lemmon may be fqueez'd into the
Cullis, and if you would have the Dih garnih'd, one of the
Tongues mut be cut into Slices, or ele you may garnih it with
Fricandoes or Scotch Collops. The fame thing may be done in
drefing Calves-tongues; but if it be requir'd to farce them with
out larding, you may make ue of the fame Ragoo; taking care
nevertheles, that both the Neats-tongues and be
always ferv'd up hot to Table.
Dried Neats-tongues.
Dried Neats-tongues are uually falted after the fame man
ner as dried Hogs-tongues hereafter pecify'd, except fcalding.
However they mut be teept in Water, the thick End or Root
being cut off, and falted after they have been well wip'd :
They mut be left three or four Days in the Brine or Pickle, and
when they are taken out, if you have any petty Salt-meats to
be prepard, this Pickle may ferve for that purpoe; whether it
be a wild Boar, Hog or Fawn; o that within the pace of five or
fix Days,fome of thee Salt-meats may be dres'd,and ferv'd up
for Out-works, or Side-dihes with good Peas foop. As for the
Neats-tongues, they mut be tied at the mall end or tip, and
hang'd up in the Chimney to be moak'd and well dried: They
may be kept, as long as you pleae, and dres'd in the fame
manner as riogs-tongues.

A Side-dik of Neats-tongues.
Let your Tongues be boil'd in fair Water with a little Salt,
and a Faggot of fine Herbs: Then cut the end next the Root,
peel off the Skin, and Lard them with fomewhat long Slips of
Bacon. Afterwards they mut be roated, but not too much, and
as they are ferving up, you may pour upon them a good Ragoo,
according to the eaon, or a rich Cullis, or a Ramolade-fauce:
The fame thing is to be done with Calves-tongues, as well as
for the following Dih. *

Another Side-dih of Neats-tongues.


After having order'd your Tongues, for the peeling off their
Skins, as before, and having larded them a-cros with thick Slips
M 3
166 The Court and Country Cook.
of Bacon, let them be well bak'd la Braife, or between two
Fires: As they are drefing in the Dih, flit them all along, fo as
the Bacon may appear, and make a Ragoo, or a Cullis to be
pour'd upon them. Let them bewell clear'd from the Fat and
ferv'd up hot to Table.
O.

O 1 L s.

TH Oil is a very confiderable Potage, which may be ferv'd


up as well on Days of Abtinence, as on Fleh-days.
An Oil for Fleh-days.
Take all forts of Meats, viz. Part of a Buttock of
Beef, a Fillet of Veal,
a a piece of a Leg of Mutton, Ducks,
Partridges, Pigeons, Chickens, Quails, a piece of raw Gammon,
Sauages and a Cervelas, all roated or fried brown: Let them
be put into a Por, every Thing according to the time that is re
quiite for boiling it, and let a thickening Liquor be made of
|
the brown Sauce to be mingled together. As foon as the fcum
is taken off, eaon your Meats, with Pepper, Salt, Cloves,
Nutmeg, Coriander-eed and Ginger, all well pounded, with
Thyme and weet Bafil, and wrapt up in a Linnen-cloth. After
wards add all forts of Roots and well calded, according
ly as you hall think fit, fuch as Carrets Turneps, Parnips,Cab
bage, Parly-roots, Onions, Leeks and other Herbs in Bunches,
In the mean while, you are to provide Cuvets, Silver-pots and
other Veffels proper for that purpoe, and when your Potage is
fufficiently boil'd, let fome Cruts be broken into pieces, and laid
Na foaking in the fame Broth, after it has been clear'd from the
Fat, and well eaon'd. Before it is ferv'd up, pour in a great
deal more Broth, ftill continuing to take away the Fat ; drefs
our Fowls and other Meats, and garnih them with the Roots.
if you have only one great Dih : they may be ferv'd
up without Roots; putting the Cuvets on a Silver-dih, with a -

Silver-ladle in it, with which every one of the Guests may take
out ome Soop, when the Oil is fer on the Table. -

See among the Potages, anotherfort of oil with young Ring


doves and other Fowl. - * -

* 4a
-

The Court and Country Cook: 167

An Oil for Fih-days.


Take fome good Broth, Peas-foop, or half Fih-broth ; let
all the above-mentioned Roots be put into it, and boil'd as
much as is requifite: Then dres your Oil, with a Profitrole
loaf in the middle, and garnih it with Roots.
An oil or Potage of Roots and feveral forts of Pule with Oil,
may likewife be prepar'd for Good-Friday,as it has been oberv'd
Pag. 47.
O I s r E R s.

-
To dref Oisters. A

Let your Oifters be put into a Stew-pan, with a little Water


and Verjuice, and let them have one Walm or Seething: Then
take them out, and reerve the Liquor that isin the Shells, to be
put into the Ragoo's, when ready to be erv'd up to Table.
Thus a Side-dih may be made of Chickens farced with Oi
fters, as it appears in the Second Article of Chickens, under the
Letter C. We have alo elewhere explain'd the manner ofdref
ing a Duck with Oiters under the Letter D, and that of pre
aring a Pike with other forts of Fih with Oifters hall be hewn
in its due Place under P.

Oisters in a Daube.
Open your Oifters, and eaonthem with fine Herbs, viz. Par
fly,Chibbol, Thyme and weet Bafil, putting a very little of each
into every Oifter ; asalfo,fome Pepper and a little white Wine:
Then cover them again with their Shells, lay them upon a
Grid-iron, and pas the red-hot Fire-hovel over them from time
to time : When they are ready, they may bedresd, and ferv'd
up uncover'd.
Farced Oisters,
Having open'd your Oifters, let them be calded and after
wards minca finali, with Parhy i tois, Thyme, Pepper,
Salt, Anchovies and good Butter. I er the Crum of Loaf be
foak'd in the Sauce, with Nutmeg and other Spice, and two or
M4. three

|
168 The Court and Country Cook. '
three Yolks of Eggs, and letall be pounded together. Then let
the Oiter-hells be farced, and having breaded,or wah'd them
over, ler them be put into an Oven upon a Grid-iron. They
may be brought to Table, either dry or with Lemmon-juice.
oiffers marinated andfied.
Aster the Osters have been marinated in Lemmon juice,they
may be put into Fritters, and fried till they come to a fine Co
z lour,

O L 1 v E s.
Side-dihes may be made of large fat Pullets, Wood-cocks,
Partridges, and other forts of wild Fowl with Olives; all which
are dres'd after the fame manner: So that explaining one, a
fufficient light will be given as to what relates to the others..

A Side-dih offat Pullets, with Olives.


Take large fat Pullets that are very tender; let them be well
trus'd and roated with a good Slice of Bacon upon their
Breat: In the mean while, prepare a Ragoo, with Chibbols
and Parfly chopt,and fried with a little Lard and Flower. Then
put into it two Spoonfuls of Gravy, a Glas of Champagne
Wine, minc'd Capers, an Anchovie, bruied Olives, a little Oil
of Olives and a Bunch of fine Herbs : To thicken the Sauce,
add a good Cullis, and let all be well eaon'd, and thoroughly
clear'd from the Fat: Then take the roafted Pullets, cut off
their Legs at the Joints, and tie up their Wings, Legs and
Breat : Let them alo be bruied a little, and afterwards put
into the Sauce. A little before they are ferv'd up hot toTable,
they mut be dres'd in a Dih, pouring in the Ragoo, and queez
ing upon them the Juice of an Orange.
O M E L E T s.

An Omelet with Sugar.


Having whipt as many Eggs as you hall think fit, put to
them a little Milk-cream and Salt, with fome Lemmon-peel
cur very mall : Let all be well beaten together, and make
your
The Court and Country Cook. 169
your omelet. Before it is put into the Dih it mut be fugar'd
in the Frying-pan, and turn'd as it is frying on the fide that is
colour'd ; the Plate upon which it is to be laid mut likewife be
turn'd downwards: ftrew it with Sugar and fome candyd
Lemmon-peel minc'd, and Ice it all at once with the red-ht
Fire-hovel; in order to be ferv'd up hot to Table.

Omelets of green Beans and other Things, with Cream.


Let your Beans be hell'd, flipt out of their Skins, and fried
in good Butter, with a little Parly and Chibbol: Then, having
pour'd in a little Milk-cream, let them be well eaon'd, and
foak'd over a gentle Fire. Let an Omelet be made with new
laid Eggs and Cream, and let fome Salt be put into it according
to dicretion. When it is ready, dres it on a Dih, bind the
Beans with one or two Yolks of Eggs, turn them upon the Ome
let; fo as they may tick to the fide of it, and bring it hot to
Table. *

Omelets of the like nature may be made with Moufferons, Mo


rilles, common Muhrooms, green Peae, Aparagus-tops and
Artichoke-bottoms, white and black Truffles, Spinage, Sorrel, &c.
all with Cream; but 'tis requifite that they be cut into mall
P16A very
CeS, great quantity of Omelets may be thus diguied, and
thee little Cream-auces may ferve to fill up your Plates or
Dihes, garnihing them with mall Garnitures; uch as fried
Artichokes, Bread-toftes, Puffs, Fleurons, Feuillantins, Artichoke
bottoms fried in Pate, and others of the like nature that hall
be judg'd requifite; and taking care that all be ferv'd up hot
to Table,

42 To make a Gammon-Omelet.
Having repard a Hah of good boil'd Gammon, with a
little raw Gammon ; let your Omelet be made and dres'd in a
Dih, ordering it with this Gammon-hah according to the pre
ceding Method. The fame thing may be done with boil'd
Neats-tongues.

Another
17o The Court and Country Cook.
Another farced Omelet.
Take the Breaft of a roated Chicken or other Fowl, cut it
into little pieces in the form of a Die, as alo fome boil'd Gam
mon and Muhrooms likewife in little quare pieces, with Ca
livers, Truffles, and other forts of Garniture, all well drefs'd
in a Ragoo. In the mean time, let the Omelet be made, but
before it is dres'd in the Dih, let fome Crum or Cruft of Bread
be put therein, and let your Ragoo be turn'd into the fame Fry
ing-pan. When it is ready, let it be moiften'd with a little
Gravy and ferv'd up hot to Table. Thus Omelets may be
farc'd with all forts of Ragoo's, fo that it were needles to in
fift on them any longer, particularly, with Calves-kidneys boil'd,
Veal-weet-breads, Livers of Rabbets, or Leverets, thoe of
Capons, &c. as well as on Fih-days, with a Fih-farce, Carp
roes and a good Herb-farce.

P.
P A 1 N s.
Here are feveral Side-dihes call'd Pains, i. e. Loaves, as
being made of Bread tuff'd with different forts of Farces;
fuch are the Pains of Gammon, Partridge, Veal, and the Spa
nih Pain : Let us give fome Account of thefe in their order.
To make a Gammon-Pain,
Let fome Slices of Gammon be dres'd in the ame manner as
for Gammon-effence, already decribed in the firt Article of
Gammon,under the Letter G ; except that you mut not put any
Muhrooms to them, nor train them thro' a Sieve. If your
Slices, when drefs'd, are not fufficiently thicken'd, a little Bread
cullis may be added to bring them to a due Conistence: Then,
having provided a Potage-loaf, cut it thro' the middle, fo as
both the upper and under Cruftsmay remain entire; take away
the Crum from the infide, and let the rest of the Loaf be toat
ed and brought to a colour at the Fire, or in an Oven, till it
me brown. When it is ready, joyn the two Crufts toge
ther, in a little Dih, after having foak'd them a little in the
Sauce; and put your Ragoo into it with the Sauce. It may be
- - gar
The Court TC75 Cook. 171 .
garnih'd with Capons-livers dres'd in a Veal-caul, and ferv'd
up among the Intermees, -

A Side-dist of Partridge-Pains.
Take roated Partridges, with the Fleh of a Capon or Pul
let, parboil'd Bacon, tried Sewer, Morilles and common Muh- . '
rooms cho $
alo Truffles, Artichoke-bottoms, fine Herbs, and
a Clove arliek, all well eaon'd and cut mall; and, to bind
them, add the Crum of a Loaf oak'd in good Gravy and fome
Yolks of Eggs: Then let your Pains be made upon Paper, of a
round Figure, and of the thicknes of an Egg, at a convenient
distance one from another. The Point of your Knife mut be
dipt in a beaten Egg, in order to hape them, and bread them
neatly. They may alo ferve to garnih other Side-dihes of
larger fize, and of more coniderable Meats. -

To make a Veal-Pain.

Having cut a Fillet of Veal into thin Slices, beat them with
the Back of a Knife, and take as great a quantity of them, as
will be requifite, proportionably to the bignes of your Dih.
Then let another Fillet of Veal be well minc'd, with parboil'd
Bacon, dres'd Gammon, tried Sewet, all forts of fine Herbs,
the Breat of a Capon and Partridge, a few Truffles, Moufferons
and common Muhrooms chopped, all well eaon'd with ail
forts of fine Spice, and mixt with a little Milk-cream. After
wards let fome Bards or thin Slices of Bacon be laid in order
in a round Stew-pan, as alo one half of the beaten Veal-takes,
e and then the Farce ; continuing to cover it on the top, in the
fame manner as underneath; fo as the whole Farce may be
z enclos'd on all fides : Latly, let it be well cover'd and bak'd
la Braife, between two Fires. A little piece of Garlick ma
be put into the Farce, which muft be brought hot to Table, af
has been well clear'd from the Far, and neatly dres'd in a
LJllIl.

: , This Veal-Pain may alo be ferv'd up with green Peae and


# Aparagus, when they are in eaon. -

|*

T
--

172 The Court and Country Cook.

To make a Spanih Pain.


Take the Breats of roated Partridges, mince them mall,
with a Handful of calded Pitachoes and a little beaten Corian
der-eed, and let all be well pounded in a Mortar; adding three
or four Yolks of Eggs, according to the bignes of your Dih, a
little Lemmon-peel and fome good Veal-gravy. Let the whole
Mixture be well temper'd in a Mortar, and train'd thro' the
Sieve, as if it were Cream made after the Italian Mode : Then
let the Dih be fet into the Oven, and let all be turn'd into it,
keeping a Fire on the top and underneath, till it be thoroughly .
coagulated. But it mut be fet on the Table by a neat-handed :
Servitor, let it hould be broken, as it is ferving up.
Another Side-dih of a farced Pain.
Another Side-dih may be made of a Pain or Loaf farced
with Veal-weet-breads, Artichoke-bottoms, Truffles and Gam- .
mon dres'd in a_Ragoo, with a_white thickening Liquor of
roated Veal and Lemmon-juice: Let your Loaf be well foak'd
for a quarter of an Hour in good Broth, and ferv'd up with
Mutton-gravy, a little thickening Liquor and Lemmon-juice.
You may hereafter oberve among the Potages, the manner .
of preparing Profitrolle-loaves, and feveral forts of farced Crusts,
as well for Fleh-days, as thoe of Abtinence ; of which alo
may be made as many Side-dihes, for the meaner fort of Ordi
naries.

P A N - P 1 E s, fee T o u R r B s.
P A R r R I D G E s.

Having a little before explain'd the manner of making Par


tridge-Pains, as alo Partridge-Hahes in the firt Article of
under the Letter H; we hall here produce fome other :
Side-dihes of the fame fort of Fowl. 4

Partridges, with Spanih Sauce,


After having roated fome Partridges; let one of them be
well pounded in a Mortar, and foak'd in good Gravy: The Li
Vers
The Court and Country Cook. 173
vers of the Partridges mut likewie be pounded with fome pie
ces of Truffles, and let all be well moiten'd with Gravy, aS
the Cullis may become fomewhat thick; fetting it afide for a
while in a Dih. Then pour two Glaes of Burgundy-wine into
a Stew-pan, with a Clove or two of Garlick, two or three Slices
of Onion, a few Cloves, and two Glaes of the Sauce; o that
only one may be left; but if the Dih belarge, the Quantity of
the Wine and Cullis may be augmented. When your Sauce is
ready, train it thro' a Sieve into a Stew-pan, pour the Cullis
upon it, and let all be well eaon'd : To thee add a little Gam
mon-effence, and let all boil together for fome time. Latly,
cut your Partridges into pieces, put them into the Sauce, and
let them be kept hot; fqueezing in the Juice of two or three
Oranges, before it is ferv'd up to Table.
A Partridge-Biberot.
Take the Breafts of roated Partridges, and if they are not
fufficient, fome of fat Pullets likewife roated, and let them be
minc'd upon a Dreffer that is well flower'd: Let the Carcaffes
be pounded in a Mortar, and tew'd in a Pan with good Gra
vy: Then, having train'd them thro a Sieve, put them into a
little Pot, with your Biberot or minc'd Meat: it boil ovr
a gentle Fire, taking care that it do not tick to the bottom,
and adding a Spoonful of Gammon-effence ; but it mut be fo
orderd, as not to be too thin or too fat. When it is ready, it
may be dipoed of in a Plate or two, and ferv'd up hot to
Table. Some are content to make ufe oficin thismaner ; and
others, after having dres'd the whole Mes in a Plate or Dih,
ftrew it with Bread-chippings grated very fine,and give it a co
lour with the red-hot Fire-hovel. When fo order'd it may be
eaten with a Fork, and otherwife with a Spoon,

Partridge-Filets, with Gammon.


When your Partridges are roated, let them be cut into Fi
lets, and tew'd with Gammon, an Anchovie, Capers, Chib
bol and Parly chopt very mall. Thus they are to be ferv'd
up among the Out-works, and may alo be dres'd with Wood
cock or Pike-fauce. - -

Am9
774 T C T Country Cook.

Another Way of dreffing Partridges.


Partridges may likewife bebak'd between two Fires, or roast
ed in Sur-rout, according to the Method hereafter laid down for
Pigeons; or elfe dres'd with Olives, as it has been already ob
ferv'd under the Article of Olives.
For Partridge-pies, fee the firt Article of Pies, as alfo Par
tridge-potages under that of Potages; or rather, look for them
in the General Table of the Meffes. -

P A s r B s,
*

It would be needles here to infit on the different forts of


Pates, which are uually made; that is to ay, ome thin as it
were Batter, and others of a more firm c ; the latter
to be us'd for Pies and Pan-pies, and the other for Fritters, or
to cover feveral Things in order to be fried. It may well be
preum'd, that the Reader is ufficiently instruted in this Mat
ter, and ome particular kinds of Pates have been already pro-
duc'd, as thoe of Almonds and Fruit, under thoe Articles; fo
that we hall only add one or two that are no les curious and
remarkable.

Paste for crackling Cruit.


Take Sugar beaten to Powder, with as much fine Flower,
Whites of Eggs, according to the quantity of your Pate, and .
a little Orange-flower-water. Then having caus'd the Paste to
be well made upon the Dreffer-board, o as it be not too oft,
roll out a piece for the Bottom-cruft, as thin as Paper, if it be ;
poible, and flower it continually underneath, working it in
, with your Hands: And indeed, it will be ready almost to pread
of it felf, after it has been beaten a little with the Rolling-pin.
rhen ruba Plate or Baking-pan with a little Butter, put your
iece of Pate into it, and pare it round about ; afterwards it
must be prickt with the Point of a Knife, that it may not -

in the Oven. When it is fufficiently bakd, let it bedres' OI)


a Dih or Plate, laying thereon, before it is ferv'd up, ome
Marmalade, with Apricocks, Peaches, Plums, and other forts
of preerv'd Fruit.
With
TTTTTTTTTTountry Cook. 175
with this Paste, you may roll out everal very thin pieces,
which may be neatly cut and dried in an Oven ; always re
membring to butter the Plate or Pie-pan, let they hould tick
to it. Afterwards they may be ic'd, if you hall think fit, and
laid upon the Tourtes or Pan-pies, which are to be fer out with
Savoy-Biskets, or other mall Garnitures.
Syringed Paste.
Take Almond-pate, prepared according to the Method de
fcribd in the firt Article of Almonds, pound it in a Mortar,
with a little natural Cream boil'd, and having pas'd ir thro
the Syringe, let it be fried in a Pan, fme musked Sugar
and weet Water, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table. This
Pate may be prepar'd after many other manners, at pleaure, as
has been before oberv'd in the fame place.
P A s r 1 E s,

Pasties made of Stags-fleh or other forts of Venifon.


Having caus'd your Venion to be mortified, or marinated, let
it be with thick Slips of Bacon, and eaon'd with Pep
r, Salt, Nutmeg and Cloves, all well beaten together. Then
a brown Pate be made with Rie-flower; as being more
proper to preerve Meats, and more portable, adding ome Salt
and a little Butter. After having dres'd the Pasty with pound
ed Lard, Bards or thin Slices of Bacon, Bay-leaves, and the
above-mention'd eaoning Ingredients,let it be wah'd over with
the Whites of Eggs, and bak'd for the pace of three or four
Hours. A Hole mut be made in the middle,left it hould burtor *
the Liquor hould run out; but it may be topt up when taken
our of the Oven, and the Paty fet upon a Hurdle or Pie-plate.
t may be ferv'd up to Table either entire, or cut into lices.
A Paty may be made after the fame manner, with the Fleh
of a wild Boar, or Roe-buck; but it is not neceary to bake ir
fo long, or to eaon it fo high. -

P E R c H E s.

Side-dih may be made of Perches in a Sauce of Mouffe


rons, fried in natural Butter with Cream: They may alo be
ferv'd
176 The Court and Country Cook.
ferv'd up in Filets, with Cucumbers, as well as Soles, hereafter
mentioned; curting them into pieces,after they have been cal'd,
and boil'd in Broth. Latly, Perches may be dres'd with green
Sauce, or otherwie thus: -

Perches in Filets, with white Sauce.


Let Muhrooms be tos'd up in a Pan, with natural Butter,
and afterwards boil'd in a little Cream, without any thing to
thicken them: Then let your Perch-Filets, ready cut, be put to
them, and thicken'd with three Yolks of Eggs, chopt Parly,
grated Nutmeg, and the Juice of a Lemmon : Ler all be tirr'd
together very gently, for fear of breaking the Filets, and dres'd
with Slices of Lemmon, or fome other fort of Garniture.

P B r 1 r s OE U F s, fee E G G s.
P B r 1 r s P A r E s, fee P 1 E s.
* . . - P H B A s A N r s.

Two particular Side-dihes may be made with Pheaants,


viz. one a hot Pie and the other with Carp-auce.

A Side-dih of Pheaants, with Carp-fauce.


Let your Pheaants be well trufs'd, barded with a good Slice
of Bacon, and roated, taking care that they be not dry'd. To
prepare the Sauce, let fome tender Veal-takes be laid in or
der on the bottom of a Stew-pan, as if it were to make Gravy,
with feveral Slices of Gammon and Onions, Parfly-roots and a
Faggot of fine Herbs. In the mean while, having gutted a
Carp, wah it only in one Water, without caling it, cut it in
to pieces, in the fame manner as for tewing, and put it into
the ame Pan : Then fet it over the Furnace to give ita fine Co
lour, as is uually done in making Gravy, and foak it with good
Veal-gravy anda Quart of Champagne-wine; adding a Clove of
Garlick, fome chopt Muhrooms, Truffles, and mall Crufts of
Bread. Let the whole Mes be boil'd, taking care that it be
not too much falted; train it well thro' the Hair-fieve, and or
der the Sauce fo as it may be fomewhat thick. Otherwie, fome
Partridge-cullis may be added, and put with it into a Stew-pan.
- - After
- -

The Cr T Country Cook. 177


Afterwards having tied up the Pheaants ler them be laid in
this Sauce, and hor, till it be requifite to ferve them up to
Table : Then dres them in a Dih, and pour the Sauce upon
them. They may be garnih'd with Partridge-Pains, which have
been already decribd in the fecond Article of Pains.

A Side-dih of a hot Pheaant-pie.


Take the Fleh of a Pheaant, with that of a large fat Puller
and a tender piece of a Leg of Veal, and let all be well minc'd
together, with Parfly, Chibbol, Moufferons, common Muhrooms,
Veal-weet-breads, boil'd Gammon and raw Bacon: Then ha
ving eaon'd them with fine Herbs, Spice, Pepper and Salt,
make a good Godivoe of them, as alo, a fomewhat trong Pate,
and let your Pie be rais'd either with double, or ingle Crufts,
accordingly as you hall think fit. . As foon as it is bak'd, take
Fat, pour in a Muhroom-cullis, and ferve it up hot
t0 1 able. -

P 1 c K L E s, fee M A R I N A D s s,
4a

P I E s.

Pies are brought to Table, either hot or cold; that is to ay,


the former for Side-dihes, and the other for Intermees.

A hot Pie of Partridges, Wood-cocks, &c.


Take two Partridges and as many Wood-cocks, and let them
be well drawn, referving the Livers: Let them alo be nearly
trus'd, and beaten on the Breat, with a Rolling-pin: Then ha
vinglarded them with thick Slips of Bacon and Gammon, eaon
them with Pepper and Salt, and flit them thro' the Back. . In
the mean time, let a Farce be made of a tender piece of Veal, as
thick as an Egg, with raw Bacon, a little Marrow, Parfly and
fine Herbs, a few Truffles and Muhrooms chopped, and a little
Weal-fewet: When the whole Farce is thus duely prepar'd, let
it bebound with the Yolk of an Egg, and let the four Fowlsbe
ftuft with it on the Back. It will alo be to mince
and pound ome Bacon,with the two Partridge-livers,and to fea
on all with beaten Spice. Afterwards having made ome Pate,
yith an Egg, freh Butter, Flower nd a little Salt, roll out
- TWO
z 78 The Court and Country Cook.
two pieces of it ; lay one of them on butter'd Paper, and let
fome Lard pounded in a Mortar be neatly pread upon it. Let
your Partridges and Wood-cocks be eaon'd, and fet in order
round about, after all their Bones have been broken ; addin
fome Truffles and Muhrooms, with a Bay-leaf, and covering
with Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon : After having laid on your
other piece of Pate for the Lid, cloe up the Sides round about,
wahover the whole Pie, and fet it into the Oven; taking care
of the Fire. When it is bak'd, let the Paper be taken away
from underneath ; preparing at the fame time a good Cullis of
Partridges, Veal-weet-breads, Muhrooms and Truffles: Then
curting off the Lid of the Pie, remove all the Bacon-Bards, clear
it well from the Fat, and fqueez in the Juice of a Lemmon.
Let the whole Cullis be likewie pour'd into the Pie very hot,
and having cover'd it again with the Lid, let it be immediately
ferv'd up to Table for a Side-dih.
Hot Pies of Chickens, Pigeons, Larks, Quails, Thruhes and
others of the like nature, are uually made after the fame man
ner, and we have already hewn in the preceding Article, how to
prepare a hot Pheaant-pie, which is a kind of Godivoe.
* A Pie of large Pigeons, or young Turkeys.
Having provided large Pigeons, let them be drawn, trufs'd
and beatenon the Breaft, to Break the Bones: Then let them be
larded with thick Slips of Bacon, and well eaon'd. Take th
Livers, with raw Bacon, Parfly, Chibbol, fine Herbs, all well
chopt and eaon'd; as alo, fome Truffles, Muhrooms and Mar
row, and pound all together in the Mortar : Stuff the Bodies
of your Pigeons, or young Turkeys with this Farce, and reerve
a little of it to be put underneath. In the mean while, the Pie
being made of good Pate, fome of the Farce mut be put on
the Bottom, and afterwards the Pigeons in due order, and well
eaon'd; adding alo a Bay-leaf: Then all mut be cover'd
with thin Slices of Bacon, and with a Lid on the top. When
the Pie is bak'd, let it be clear'd from the Fat, and at the fame
time, let a good Ragoo be pour'd into it, ready prepar'd with
Veal-weet-breads, Muhrooms, Cocks-combs, &c. accordingly
as occaion may ferve, or the Seafon will admit. But let
fet on the Table hot among the Side-dihes.
A
The Court and Country Cook. 179

A Chicken-pie, with Cream.


As foon as the Pie is made, let your Chickens be put into ir
in Quarters, eafon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cinnamon,
melted or pounded Lard and fine Herbs; and let it be cover'd
with a Lid of the fame Pate. When it is bak'd, pour in fome
Cream, and let it tand a little while longer in the Oven : Lat
ly, add fome Muhroom-juice, and ferve it up hot to Table.
A Pie of a boned Capon.
The Capon is to be tuff'd with a Farce made of its own
Fleh, part of a Fillet of Veal, Beef-marrow, or Sewet and Ba
con; eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nurmeg, Cloves, Veal-weet- -
: breads, Truffles, Muhrooms and fine Herbs: Then it must be
cover'd with Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon, and put into a Pie
made of fine Pate, which is to be wah'd over, and bak'd about
two Hours. Some Lemmon-juice muft alo be fqueez'd upon
it, when ready to be brought to Table. -

A Duck-pie.
After having beaten the Breafts of the Ducks, let them be
larded with middle-fizd Slips of Bacon, and dres'd as the
above-mentioned forts of Fowl; covering them with Muh
rooms, Capons-livers, Truffles, and the neceary feafoning In
gredients. When the Pie has been bak'd during two Hours,
let fome Juice of Shalots or of Garlick, with that of Orange be
put therein, as it is ferving up to Table. \ ,

A Pie after the German Mode.


Take Lamb cut into Quarters, which is to be larded with
middle-fizd Slips of Bacon, and put into a Pie made of indif
ferent fine Pate ; eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves,
a Bay-leaf or two, pounded Lard, fine Herbs and Chibbol:
Let it be cover'd with a Lid of the fame Paste, and bak'd three
Hours. Latly, let ome Oiters befried in Lard, with Flower,
Capers, ftoned Olives, Muhrooms, Mutton-gravy and Lem
*, and let all be turn'd into the Pie with the Oiter
1CIUOT.
q | N 2
-

- A
A
18o The Court and Country Cook.

A Godivoe-Pie.

et a good Godivoe be prepard, with a Fillet of Veal, fome


Marrow or Beef-ewet, and a little Lard ; eaon'd with Pep
per, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, fine Herbs and Chibbols; and let
your Pie be made of fine Pate, of the height of three or four
nches, and of a round or oval Figure, accordingly as you hall
think fit; garnihing it with Morilles, common Muhrooms, Veal
fweet-breads, Artichoke-bottoms and Andouillets, round about
the opening in the middle, and pouring in a white Sauce, when
ready to be brought to Table.
The Plate-pies, of a round Figure, are made in the fame
manner, when they are entirely coverd, and a little Coronet is
uually fer on the middle. They are to be wah'd over, and
fcarce require an Hour for Baking. -

A Pie made of a Fillet of Veal.


The Fillet is to be cut into pieces larded with thick Slips
of Bacon: Afterwards, being dres'd in a good Godivoe, it mut
be fill'd with Aparagus-tops, Muhrooms, Veal-weet-breads
and Artichoke-bottoms: When it is ready to be ferv'd up, it
would be requiite to pour into it a little thickening Liquor,
with fome Lemmon-juice, and to garnih it with its own Cruft, i
as well as the other forts of Pies.

A Blood-pie for a side-diff.


On thoe Days that young Turkeys, fat Pullets and other
forts of Fowl are kill'd, fome of their Blood may be preerv'd,,
to the quantity only of a large Glas full. It mut be put into
an Earthen Pan, with fome Filets of a Hare and of Veal: Let
rhee Filets be larded with Gammon and thick Slips of Bacon,
and teept in the Blood; eaoning them a little. To make the
Godivoe, you are to provide fome Fleh of Chickens and Par
tridges, a good piece of a Leg of Veal, fome Bacon, Marrow
and a little Sewer; with Parfly, Chibbol, a Clove of Garlick
and Truffles, all well eaon'd, enrich'd and chopt mall : Let
the Blood be put into this Farce and temper'd with it. In the
mean time, let two forts of Pate be prepard, viz. one ordina
ry, of a greater quantity, and the other les, confiting of
* - - UlU*
The Court and Country Cook. 181

Butter, Flower and Salt, all well workt, without any Water.
Thus two large pieces are to be roll'd out of the common Pate,
and two leffer ones of the finer fort : Let the great piece for
the Bottom-cruft be put Paper, and the leffer on the
top of it: Take one half of your Godivoe, and pread it neatly
upon thoe two pieces of Pate ; then fer your Filets in order,

| and the ret of the Farce upon them; covering all with Bards or
thin Slices of Bacon, and afterwards with a finall piece of the
fine Pate; wetting the greater round about: At lat, the other
large piece being put on the top, to compleat the Lid or up
r Crut; the whole Pie is to be wah'd over with an Egg,
and bak'd in the Evening, for the pace of eight or ten Hours :
For it mut be left all Night till the fame Hour next Morning,
: taking care that the Oven be not over-heated. It mut be ferv'd
up hot to Table, after having pour'd a Partridge-cullis into it,
and both the Meat and Cruft ought to be eaten with a Fork.

A Chibbol-pie.
For the Farce, or Godivoe, 'tis requifireto provide a piece of
Beef, or of very tender Veal, with Beef-fewet, raw and tried,
Parfly and a great deal of young Chibbol: Let it be chopt to
ether, fufficiently enrich'd, and well feaon'd with all frts of
eaten Spice; adding a little Beef-marrow, Bread-crum teept ..
in Gravy, fome pieces of Truffles and Muhrooms cut finall:
Then let two pieces of good Paste be roll'd out, viz. one for
the Lid very thin, and the other for the Bottom-cruft omewhat
thicker; let the Pie be rais'd upon Paper, three or four Inches
high ; and let the Farce be put into it, all well feaon'd and
a of in good order: Laftly, let it be cover'd with Bacon
Bards and Slices of Lemmon, and when the Lid is laid on over
: -

all, letit be fet into the Oven. As foon as it is drawn, a good


white Cullis, or one of Partridges, may be pour'd into it, in
|
;:
order to be fet hot on the Table.

A Pie after the Englih Way,


-

Take the Fleh of a Hare, and of a tender Leg of Veal, ac


cording to the fize of your Pie: Let all be chopt upon the Dref
| fer, with good raw Bacon, Marrow, a little Veal-fewet, can
dy'd Lemmon-peel, Sugar, beaten Cinnamon, and Coriander
feed; all well orderd and *** all forts of weer sr :
| - IN 3 ang
182 The Court and Coantry Cook.
and bound with four or five Yolks of Eggs. In the mean
while, a Pate being duly prepard, raie it of a convenient
height, put your Farce into it, with fome Slices of Lemmon
and Bacon-Bards, and cover it with a Lid. When the Pie is
bak'd, let a Sauce be made for it, of two good Glaes of Vine
gar, with a little Sugar, ome Cloves and a Stick of Cinnamon:
Let all boil together, till the Sauce be almot ready, and if
the Pie be large, a proportionable quantity will be requiite:
Afterwards, the Pie being open'd, clear it thoroughly from the
Fat, and pour in the Sauce, . It may, if you pleae,- be adorn
ed with fine cur Pastry-works, and ought to be erv'd up hot
for a Side-dih.

A Fih-pie.
For a Fih-pie to be ferv'd up on Days of Abstinence, let a
Godivoe be made in the fame manner as the Fih-farce decribd .
in the Article of Farce ; except the Yolks of Eggs and the Ome
let, which may be omitted: For the ret, the and
Truffles mut be chopt, as before, and this Gadivae may ferve as
it were intead of a Godivoe-pie on Fleh-days. After having
made the Pate and rais'd the Pie, one half of this Godivoe is to
be put into it, as alo at the fame time, all forts of Garniture for
Fih-days ; fuch as Truffles, Muhrooms, Andouillets, Artichoke
bottoms, and raw Fih-Filets cut into mall pieces: Then ha
ving put the ret of the Godivoe well eaon'd on the top, ler
your Pie be coverd and bakd: Latly, you may prepare for it
a white Sauce or Cullis of Muhrooms, or fome other fort of
Ragoo; but more epecially take care, that it be ferv'd up hot
to Table.
The General Table at the end of this Volume, hews ome
other particular Fih-pies, that are occaionally decrib'd upon
account of the fame Fihes: Thoe that remain are as follows,
vix.

A Carp-pie.
The Carp must be cal'd and larded with Eels-fleh, eaon'd
with good Butter, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, a Bay-leaf
and Oiters: Then the Pie being made of fine Paste, according
to the length of the Carp, must be coverd, and fet into an Oven
moderately heated; o as half a Glas of white Wine may be
pour'd in, when it is half bak'd. The
----

T. Go a Country Cook. - 183


The Carp may alo be farc'd, according to the Method ex
lain'd in the fifth Article of Carps, with Roes of the fame, Oi
ers, Muhrooms and Artichoke-bottoms ; in order to be ferv'd
up, with Lemmon-juice: Or ele it may be cut into Filets, of
the fame nature as thoe for the above-mentioned Pies, as well
as the following forts of Fih and others.
A Turbot-pie.
A Turbot may be bak'd in a round or oval Dih, or in 4 .
ftanding Pie, after the uual manner: When it is well cal'd
and wah'd, let the Tail be cut off, with the end of the Head
and the Gills: Seaon your Pie with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Nut
meg, young Chibbols, fine Herbs, Morilles, or common Muh
rooms and fweet Butter, and cover it with a Lid. As foon as
it is half bak'd, pour in a Glas of white Wine, and ferve it up
with Lemmon-juice or Verjuice with the entire Grapes.
A Roach-pie, - v
A Roach-pie may be made, as that of a Tunny, and fet out
with the fame fort of Garniture; only adding fome Cray-fih
claws, if you have any at hand: When it is half bak'd, let the
Livers be firt fried in a Pan with burnt Butter, then pounded
in a Mortar, and train'd thro' the Hair-fieve, with half a Glas
of white Wine: Let all be put into the Pie, with fome Lem
mon-juice, when ready to be brought to Table, -

, i

A Trout-pie. - -

The Trout being well cal'd and cut, may be larded with
Eels-fleh, and afterwards put into a Pie, made in the uual
manner 3 eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, a Bay
leaf, Butter and fine Herbs, and enrich'd with Muhrooms, Ar
tichoke-bottoms, Capers, Oiters and Fih-roes; fqueezing in
fome Lemmon juice before it is ferv'd up to Table.
- A Sole-pie, - - - -

When your Soles are cal'd and wah'd, let them be put int
a Pie made of Pate, and eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nuttrieg,
fine Herbs chopt very mall,Chibbols, Truffle, Morilles or Mouf:
- N 4 Jerons,
184 The Court and Country Cook.
ferons, common Muhrooms, freh Oifters, and a great deal of
Butter: As foon asit is bakd, letit be erv'd up with Lemmon
juice. - , ; -

. A Tunny-pie. ** -

Let the Tunny be cut into round Slices, and dres'd, as it is


uually done, with Oifters, Artichoke-bottoms, and other fea
foning Ingredients; as alo, one or two Slices of green Lemmon:
Let it be bak'd in an Oven moderately heated, and putin fme
Lemmon-juice, or a little Vinegar, asit is erving up to Table.
i - ** , -

:
A Lamprey-pie after the Englih manner. -
,, Let your Lampreys be well cleans'd from their Slime, refer
ving their Blood, and afterwards put into a Pie of fine Paste, ea
fon'd with Pepper, Salt, beaten Cinnamon, Sugar, cndyd
Lemmon-peel, Dates and Currans: When it is half bak'd in an
Oven moderately heated, pour in the Blood, and half a Glas of
white Wine; adding alo fome Lemmon-juice, before you ferve
it up to Table.-- - ' -, -, ' : -, -
- * * , , ) -
- - - --

Petits Patez, or little Pies of Fih. . .


. Take the Fleh of Carps, Eels and Tenches; let all be half
ftew'd in a Pan with Muhrooms, and afterwards chopt mall,
with Parfly, Chibbol, Thyme, Pepper, Salt, Cloves and Nut
meg: Then F in as great a quantity of Butter as of Meat, and
ler your Pies be made of Puff-paste.
; : : ' Petits Patez after the Spanih way.
With thisArticle we hall conclude what relates to hot Pies for
Side-dihes, as well on Fleh-days, as thoe of Abtinence. To
make this fort of Pies, take only a Slice of Bacon, a little piece
of Veal and the Breat of a Chicken: Let all be parboil'd in a
Pot, minc'd very mall, and eaon'd with beaten Spice: They
must alo be pounded in a Mortar, adding a little Garlick and
Rocambole; whilt your Petits Patez, or little Pies are made
with fine fia i ferve for garnihing other Dihes, or
nstead of an Out-work. :, . . . '
- - - . . . . . d ::: - *** * *

- i est
The Court and Country Top 35
Cold pie: for Intermees.
Having already given Diretions for making a Gammon-pie
in the third Article of Gammon, let us now take a View of ome
other forts of Pies that are likewife ferv'd up among the Inter
mees, viz. -

-
Pies of Beef stakes and other forts of Butchers-meat.
Take fome Buttock-beef cut out into Stakes ; let them be
well beaten, larded with thick Slips of Bacon and eaon'd as
before: Let them alo be dres'd and bak'd in the fame man
ner. -

According to the bignes, you would have your Pie to be of,


a Leg of Mutton may likewife be added ; or elfe a particular
Pie may be made of it : To that purpoe, having taken away
the Skin and Fat from the Leg, let it be boned, well beaten and
larded with middle-fizd Slips of Bacon ; eaoning it at the
fametime, with fine Herbs, Parfly, Chibbol and Spice. In the
mean while, lera piece of ordinary Paste for a strong Under
crust, be roll'd out and laid upon thick Paper well butter'd;
andlet the Joynt of Mutton be dres'd upon the fame Paste,with
thin Slices of Bacon, Bay-leaves and the neceary eaoning In
gredients: Then cover your Pie with a Lid, having hap'd
it neatly, let it be bak'd as the former, about three Hours. .
When it is drawn out of the Oven, let a Clove of Garlick, or a
Shalot bruied be put in thro' the Breathing-hole, and let it lye
by, in order to be ferv'd up cold to Table. . .
To make a Pie of a Fillet of Veal, it must be larded in like
manner, after it has been marinated for a while, with well ea
fond Vinegar ; and for the rest, you need only oberve the Di
rections even now laid down for the Mutton-pie. . . .
A Hare or Leveret-pie.
If you would have your Hares and Leverets entire, with the
Bones, let them be larded with middle-fizd'Slips of Bacon, and
(eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves and a Bay-leaf: -
Neither mut you be paring of your pounded Lard or Bacon
Bard, in making the Pie, either of coure or fine Paste. When
it is bak'd, let it be fet a-fide in a dry place and stopt up afif
186 The Court and Country Cook.
If the Hares or Leverets are to be boned, endeavours mut be
us'd to keep the Fleh, as entire, as is poible, and they muftbe
larded with thick Slips of Baon : Then having eaon'd them,
they may be put into a Pie and bak'd as the others. . . .
A Pulti-pie and others.

Having neatly trus'd your large fat Pullets, and broken


their Bnes, ler them be larded with thick Slips of Bacon; alo
eaon'd with fine Herbs, Parly, Chibbol and Spice : Then let
them be laid in order in a Pie made of ordinary Paste, with
freh Butter, Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon, a Bay-leaf or two,
and other eaoning Ingredients : Laftly, let the Pies when well
orderd, be bak'd during two or three Hours according to tha
Heat of the Oven. -

P 1 G E o N s.
Pies of young Turkeys, Ducks, Partridges, Pheants, Wood
cocks, large Rabbets, young Rabbets, green Geee, Teals and
others are uually made after the fame manner. .
Pigeons afford a great Variety of Ragoo's and fome of them
have been already produced ; particularly, a Biskof Pigeons, in
the firt Article Bisks; a Godivoe farced with young Pigeons,in
that of Godivoe; and ie of large Pigeons, a little before, in the
fecond Article of Pies: There till remain many other forts, fo
that it would be expedient here, to give fome account of them
in their Order. - - - - -

To dref Pigeons, with fiveet Basti.


Let your Pigeons be well calded, and flit a little on the Back,
to let in a mall Farce, made of raw Bacon well minc'd, with
Parly, weet Bafil and Chibbol, all well eaon'd. Then ha
ving tew'd them in a Pot, with ome Broth, an Onion ftuck
with Cloves, a little Verjuice and Salt, let them be roll'd in bea
ten Eggs, and at the fame time wrpt up in Bread-crum, to the
end that they may be well breaded. Every one of the Pigeons
being thus orderd a-part, they mut be fried in hot Lard, till
they come to a fine colour, and afterwards fried again all at
once with Parly; which is to garnih them when they are rea
dy to be ferv'd up among the Side-dihes. . . . . . .
- A
The Court and Country Cook. 187

A Side-dih of Pigeons, with Fennel.


Having provided Pigeons of the best fort, let them be well
trus'd and only findg'dat the Fire:. Then taking the Livers,with
ome Lard, Chibbol, Parly, and a little Fennel ; let all
be chopt and well eaon'd, in orderto stuff the Bodies of the Pi
geons. Afterwards let them be roated, and let a good Ragoo
be turn'd upon them, when ready to be brought to Table.
A Side-dih of Pigeon, bara between two Fires.
Take large Pigeons, that are well trufs'd; and, if you pleae,
prepare a omewhat thick Farce to tuff their Bodies. Then let
them be bakd, or tew'd between two Fires, as many other
Things are uually dres'd : Afterwards they must be laid in
order in a Dih ; and well clear'd from the Far ; pouring upon
them at the fame time, a Ragoo of Truffles, and Veal-weet
i breads.

Pigeons stewed in Compote.


The Pigeons mut first be larded with thick Slips of Bacon,
: and fried for fome time in melted Lard: Then they are to be
stew'd in Broth, with a Glafs of white Wine, Pepper, Salt,
: Nutmeg, green Lemmon,Cloves,Muhrooms and Truffles; whilt
a white or brown Cullis is preparing, as it were for a Fricaff
of Pigeons cur into pieces: The Dih may be garnih'd wit
little Rolls cutinto halves, or any thingele at pleaure, and fome
Lemmon-juice must befqueez'din, as iris ferving up to Table. .

A Side-dih of Pigeons, with Gammon.


This Dih is uually prepar'd after the fame manner, as that
of Chickens, with Gammon, already pecified in the firt Ar
ticle of Chickens, under the Letter C. If the Pigeons are ve
ry large, they mut be larded with thick Slips of Bacon and
others of Gammon, and bak'd between two Fires: Then let
: them be put into a Gammon-ragoo, prepared for that purpoe,
and let all be well clear'd from the Fat; prinkling them with a
little Verjuice, or Vinegar: Take care that they be not too high
kalon'd with Salt and let them be brought hot to Table.
Ano
188 The Court and Country Cook.

Another Side-dih of Pigeons, with Truffles.


Another Side-dih may be made of larded or farced Pigeons,
in a Ragoo, with Truffles and Radihes, or dres'd in a well ea
fon'd Ragoo of a fine colour, with Artichoke-bottoms and A
fparagus tops. They may be garnih'd with Veal-weet-breads
in white Sauce, and fried Parfiy; addjng ome Lemmon-juice,
before they are ferv'd up to Table.
Aside-dih of Pigeons broil'dor fried, la Sainte Menehout.
Take large Pigeons, that are well trus'd ; let them be cut
into two parts and broil'd upon the Coals: Then ler them be
neatly breaded, taking care that they be not poil'd. If you
would have them fried; before they are breaded, they mut be
roll'd in beaten Eggs, to the end that the Bread may more eafily
ftick to them. When they are dres'd either way, they may
ferve for garnihing; but if a eparate Dih be made of rhem, a
Ramolade-fauce mut be put underneath, read rs red, with
Anchovies, Parly, chopt Capers, a little Chibbol, V and
Gravy, and then all may be fet hot on the Table. -

All other forts of Fowl, may be dres'd in the fame manner:


Pigeons may alo be larded, if you hall think fit, with thick
Slips of Bacon and Gammon, to heigthen their Savour, and
fome call Fowls fo dres'd Pieces la Sainte Menehout. -

Moreover Pigeons, after they have been well eaon'd, may


bestew'd in a Court-bouillon, that is duly order'd and made very
Savoury: Then they must be well breaded, fo as no part ofthe
Meat may be any longer feen, and brought to a colour, with
the red-hot Fire-hovel. T
*
*
Pigeons in Sur-tout, roasted, and bardietween two Fires.
Having caus'd large Pigeons to be well orderd and trus'd ;
let a Farce be made of raw Bacon, boil'd Gammon and Veal
fweet-breads, with Truffles and Muhrooms, chopt with the Li
vers, alo Parfly, Chibbol and a Clove of Garlick; all cur
fmall, well eaon'd, and bound with one or two Yolks of Eggs.
Let the Pigeons be tuff'd with this Farce between the Skin and
the Fleh, as alo in the Body, and afterwards well tied up;
viding ar the fame time a large Fricandoe, or Scotch Collop lard
ed,
la The Court and Country Cook. 189
; ; for Pigeon, which is to be laid upon the Breaft.
Then all the Pigeons being neatly tied and pitted, are to be co
ver'd with Paper, and roasted in this manner; whilt a good
Ragoo is preparing for them. Before they are erv'dup, twill
be requifite to dres them in a Dih, taking away the Collops, and
pouring on them the Ragoo or Cullis, of whatoever Nature ir
: provided it be well boil'd and eaon'd. . Latly, let the
Collops be laid again upon the Breafts of all the Pigeons, and
let them be brought hot to Table.
The fame thing may be done for Pigeons in Sur-tout bak'd be
* tween twe Fires: All the difference between them, and other
- forts of Fowl dres'd in this manner, is, That no Bacon-Bards,
nor Meat are to be put upon the Collops, to the end that they
may take a fine colour. As foon as the Pigeons are ready, let
the Fat be taken away, and a Ragoo prepar'd with Truffle, ac
cordingly, as occaion may require.
Other Side-dihes of the like nature, may be made of Par
tridges, Wood-cocks and other forts of Fowl, and to diverifie
them, a Ragoo may be dres'd with Oisters, or la Saingaraz,
ora Partridge-cullis, according to the Expences allotted to be
laid out: But all mut be well clear'd from the Fat, and erv'd
up hot to Table. -

A Pigeon-Tourte, or Pan-pie.
, After having provided good tame Pigeons, let them be well
calded and trus'd : Then taking melted Lard, Marrow, Veal
weet-breads cut into halves, Artichoke-bottoms in quarters,
and a whole one to be fet in the middle, with Capons-livers,
Cocks-combs well pickt, Muhrooms cut into mall quare pie
ces, and Truffles in Slices ; let all be well tew'd in a Pan, with
a little Flower, and well eaon'd. In the mean while, let your
Pate be made (according to the bignes of the Pie-pan) of an
Egg, Butter, Salt and Water; as alo, a piece of Puff-paste :
Leta good piece of the former be roll'd out for the Bottom
Crust, which is to be put into a Pie-pan of a fize proportionable
to that of your Dih: Then having pour'd in fome melted Lard,
that is moderately hot, let the Pigeons be well moiten'd and
laid in order, with the Artichoke-bottom in the middle, the Sli
ces of Truffles, Muhrooms and Veal-weet-breads in the Inter
yals. Afterwards ler the ret of the Sauce be infus'd, and ta
king another piece of Pate, that was roll'd out of a round Fi
gure,
*
795 The Court and Country Cook.
ure, let it be clapp'd with your Hand, preading it upon the
3 end, that the may be
ir, and that the Lid may be neatly pread on the top: But too
reat a quantity of Puff-pate mut not be made, that the other
# may be thicker. Having thus cover'd your Pie with this
Lid, make a neat Border or Side-cruft round about, and when
'tis ready to be ferv'd up, remove the Bacon-Bards, drain off
the Fat, and pour in a Cullis of Pigeons-carcaes, or fome other
white thickening Sauce.

other ways of dreffing Pigeons.


Pigeons may be otherwie dres'd au Pere Douillet ; and to
that purpoe ; after they have been well order'd, let them be
ftew'd in a little_Pot, well feaoned and enrich'd, with Salt,
Cloves, Thyme, Onion, and a little white Wine. They may
be garnih'd with Parfly and Lemmon-lices; ing in fome
of the Juice, when ready to be brought to Table.
At another time, your Pigeons, after they have been roated,
barded and brought toafine colour,maybe erv'dupin Veal-gra
vy, withoutany other Garniture,orwith whiteSauce; or laftly,
in a Marinade, asit appears from the fecond Article of Marinades.
P 1 G s.

ASide-dih of a young fucking Pig.


After a young fucking Pig has been well calded and drawn;
let the Liver be minc'd a-part, with parboil'd Bacon, Truffles,
Muhrooms, an Anchovie, a Clove of Garlick, a few fin
Herbs and a little Sage. The whole Farce being thus dres'd
in a Stew-pan and well eaon'd, tuff the Body of your Pig
with the fame, tye it up nearly, and let it be roated; basting
it with good Oil of Olives. It must be ferv'd up hot to Table,
and may be garnih'd with fried Bread.
To cald a fucking Pig well, it mut be rubb'd with Rofin,
and put into Water moderately heated.

A fucking Pig drefd after the German Fahion.


The Pig must be firt cut into quarters, and fried in a Pan
with Lard : Then let it be stew'd in Broth, with a little white
Wine,
*
The Court and Country CE. 797
Wine, a Faggot of Herbs, Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg. After
wards having tos'd ? in a Stew-pan with Lard, fome Oiters
and Flower, a piece of Lemmon, Capers and ftoned Olives, let
them be added to the ret, with Slices and Juice of Lemmon, as
they are ferving up to Table.
For a fucking Pig roated, fee the Letter R.
An Intermest of a fucking Pig in Galantine.
After having caus'd your Pig to be well calded and drawn,
cut off the Head and the four Legs: Then ler the Skin be flipt
of beginning at the Belly ; but care mut be taken that it
not cut, epecially on the Back: Let this Skin be neatly pread
upon the Dreffer, whilt a Farce is preparing, with the Fleh of
the Pig, a piece of very tender Veal, a little raw Gammon, and
Bacon; alo, a little Parfly, chopt Chibbol, and all forts of fine
Herbs, except Roemary and Sage. In the mean while, a
Strong Liquor is to be made, with a Quart of Water, two Bay
leaves, ome Thyme, weet Bafil, Savoury, three Cloves of
Garlick, and two or three Shalots; this Liquor when half boil'd
away, will ferve to moisten your Farce. Let fome Pitachoes
and Almonds be alo calded, according to dicretion, and let
fix Eggs be harden'd to get their Yolks : Afterwards let fome
of your Bacon and Gammon be cut into thick Slices, taking
only the lean part of the Gammon: When they are all well
eaon'd, let a Slice of Gammon, another of Baeon ; as alo, a
Lay of Almonds, another of Piftachoes, and a third of hard
Yolks be fet in order. Befides, mut pur into the Farce,
fomeTruffles and Muhrooms cut mall,with a little Milk-cream,
and foak them in your trong Liquor; adding afterwards the
Yolk of one Egg. The Bacon and other Things being thus
orderd, this Farce is to be pread over them, beginning at one
of the ends of the Skin, and then roll'd up; drawing the two
Swardson both Sides cloe together, fo'as the Farce may not
fallout: When it is well roll'd up of a convenient length, ler it
betied, orfow'd up on all Sids, and put into a Napkin; which
mut be bound at both end Ends and in the middle, to keep it
very firm and compat. Atlast, it must be bak'd in a Stew-pan
}
between two Fires, viz, one upon the Lid and the other under
neath, for the pace of ten or twelve Hours, with fome Slices of
# Bacon
Let
and Beefstakes, both on the Bottom and Top of the Pan:
your farged Pig cool in the fame Pan, and as ioon as it is
* taken

192 The Court and Country Cook.


taken out of the Napkin, let it be untied, and cut into Slices,
which are to belaid in a Dih,upon a clean Napkin, and o erv'd
up cold, with Slices of Lemmon and Flowers.
A Pig dregd au Pere Douillet.
When the Pig is well calded in Water, and orderd as before,
it must be larded with middle-fizd Slips of Bacon, and eaon'd
high, with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, Bay-leaves, young
Chibbols and green Lemmon: Then let it be wrapt up in a
Linnen-cloth, and boil'd in a Por, with Broth and a little white
Wine. Afterwards it may be fet by, till it be half cool'd, and fo
ferv'd up for a Side-dih.
Pigs-pettitoes la Sainte Menehout.
Take Pettitoes that are well dres'd, cut them into halves,
and let every Pettitoe be tied up together: Then having provi
ded a Pot, put into it a Lay of Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon ;
another of # and fine Herbs, and a third of Pettitoes
and Bards; and o on, till all your Pertitoespre dipoed of; as
alo, afterwards a Glas of Spirit of Wine, and a Quart of white
Wine, with Anis, Coriander, a Bay-leaf or two, and a little
Let all be cover'd with Bacon-Bards, and let the
Edges of the Pot be lin'd with trong Paper; fo as the Lid may
be exatly fitted, and kept cloe topt. Then let the Pot be fet
between two Fires, which mut not be too quick, that the Pet
titoes may be leifurely tewd, during ten or twelve Hours, more
or les. When they are taken out and cool'd, they are to be
neatly breaded, and broil'd upon the Grid-iron, in order to be
ferv'd up hot among the Intermeffes. They may be dres'd with
les charge, only with Water and white Wine mingled together;
feaoning them well, and in fome Leaf-fat out of a
Hog's Belly; as it may alo be done, in the other Way of dref
f";The Denomination
, of la Sainte Menehout is likewie attri
-

buted to Pigeons, Chickens, or other forts of Fowl, dres'd in


that manner,which fome call la Mazarine, and which has been
explain'd in the third Article of Chickens, under the
CLICT U',

P 1 K E s.
N

The Court and Country Cook. I 93


\
A

P I K E s. -

Pike with oisters.


Let the Pike be cut into pieces and put into a Stew-pan, with .
white Wine, Parfly, Chibbol, Muhrooms, chopt Truffles, Pepper,
Salt and good Butter. In the mean while, let your Oifters be
fcalded a little in Water, with a few Drops Verjuice, and
thrown in among the ret, with their Liquor, when the Pike is
ready to be ferv'd up to Table: Afterwards ler all be dres'd in
a Dih, and garnih'd with what you hall think fit.
The fame thing may be done for other forts of Fih that are
dres'd with Oiters. - *

A Side-dih of a large Pike.


After having cut your Pike into four Quarters, let the Head
be dres'd in a Court-bouillon ; one of the middle-pieces with
white Sauce; the other in a Hah, or in a Ragoo, and the
Tail-piece fried with Caper-auce. The Hah is to be garnih'd
with mall Crufts of fried Bread, and all dres'd in a large Dih.
To thee may be added a finall Ragoo of Pike-livers, Roes and
Capers; garnihing the Dih with Flowers, or green Herbs.
A Pike with Sauce, afir the German Way.
When the Pike is well cleans'd and gutted, let it be cut into
two parts and boil'd in Water, but not outright: Having taken
it out, let it be cal'd till it become very white, and put into a
Stew-pan, with white Wine, chopr Capers, Anchovies, Thyme,
fine Herbs and Muhrooms cut mall, as alo Truffles, and Mo
riles: Then let all boil together gently, left the Fih hould
break, and throw in a Lump of good Butter, to thicken the
Sauce, with a little Parmean. When it is ready, you may
dres your Dih, and garnih it with what you pleae. \

Pike-Filets fried and otherwist.


As foon as your Pike is gutted and cal'd, cut it into pieces,
and make Filets of it, which are to be marinated for fome time:
Then let them be fried, after having dipt them into a thin Pate
1 O Cr
I 94 The Court and Country Cook.
or Batter, or otherwife, and let them be ferv'd up to Table,
garnih'd with Parfly and Slices of Lemmon.
Pike-Filets may alo be put into white Sauce, which is a
kind of thickening Liquor proper for that fort of Fih, made of
a little Bread-crum pounded and ftrain'd thro' the Sieve, after
having boil'd two or three Walms in a Stew-pan, with a little.
Broth, or Fih-cullis, Let your Filets be foak'd in this Sauce,
that is well feafon'd, and if you pleae, ome Truffles may be
added, with Moufferons and common Muhrooms, as alo fome
Lemmon-juice, as they are erving up to Table.
Lastly, they may be dres'd with Cucumbers, as many other
Things, and fprinkled likewie with Lemmon-juice.
A Pike-pie.
The Pike may be cut into Filet or finali pieces of the length
of your Finger, which are to be fcalded, well, eaon'd, and
tofd up in a Stew-pan with weet Butter, Muhrooms, Truffles,
Aparagus-tops and Carp-roes, alo a piece of Lemmon thrown
in as they are Stewing. Then a mall Godivoe is to be made
of the Fleh of Carps or Eels, eaon'd according to the uual
manner, and bound with Bread-crum foak'd in Broth. The E
bottom of your Pie mut be fill'd with this Farce, and a thick
ening Liquor with Lemmon-juice mut be pour'd in, before it
is brought to Table. -

A Pie may likewie be made of a boned Pike, and farced in


the mannner hereafter expres'd in the eighth Article. The
Pate for this Pie out to be fine, and it mut be hap'd according
to the fize of your Pike. Both thee forts of Pies mut be bak'd
in an Oven moderately heated, and ferv'd up hot for Side-dih
CS. |

A Pike in Haricot with Turneps.


Let the Pikebe cut into mall pieces about the length of half
your Finger, and then calded : When they are drain'd, let them
befried brown, and one half of the Turneps likewife fried brown.
Afterwards they mut be tew'd together, over a gentle Fire ;
adding a good thickening Liquor and Lemmon-juice, when they
are ferv'd up to Table.
Pike
----

TD Gar na GT, GE 195

Pilein a Court-bouillon orau Bleu.


The Pike being cut into quarters, and put into a Dih, let
Vinegar and Salt be pour'd upon it boiling hot. Then having
caus'd white Wine, Verjuice, Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg,
a Bay-leaf, or two, Onions and green Lemmon, or Orange, to
boil together, over a quick Fire ; let your Pike be putin, and
afterwards ferv'd up dry among the Intermees, -

Farced Pike.

Let the Pikes be cal'd, and let the Bones be taken out at
the Back, yet fo as the Heads and Tails may be left ticking ;
whilst a Farce is preparing with fome of the fame Fleh and that
of Eels, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves, Chibbol,
Butter, Muhrooms and fine Herbs. Let the Skins be tuff'd
with this Farce and fow'd up, in order to be ftew'd in a Dih,
with burnt Butter, fried Flower, white Wine, Verjuice, a little
Broth and a piece of green Lemmon. Then a Rageo of Oi
sters, Carp-roes and Muhrooms is to be added ; garnihing the
Dih, with fried Bread, Lemmon-lices and Capers. ar- >

pii: in Casterole. -

Scale your Pikes, Lard them with Eel-fleh, and let them be
ftew'd with burnt Butter, white Wine, Verjuice, Pepper, Salt,
Nutmeg, Cloves, a Bunch of Herbs, Bay-leaves and green
Lemmon. In the mean while, let a Ragoo be made for them,
with Muhrooms, Oisters, Capers, fried Flower and fome of
the fame Sauce in which they were tew'd. They may be gar
nih'd with Lemmon-lices, Carp-roes and fried Muhrooms. ,
Pikes fried with Anchovie-fauce.
Let the Pikes be cut open in the Belly, and marinated in Vi
negar, with Pepper, Salt, Chibbols and Bay-leaves ; let them
alo be flowerd before they are fried. For the Sauce, let An
chovies be diolv'd in burnt Butter, and having train'd them
thro' the Sieve, add ome Juice of Orange, Capers and white.
Pepper. The Dih is to be garnih'd with fried Parly and Slices
of Lemmon, before it isbrought to Table,
O 2 Roasted
* - --
195 *v The Court and Country Cook.

Roasted Pike.
The Pike mut be cal'd, cut lightly and larded with middle
fizd Slips of Eels-fleh, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg,
Chibbols and fine Herbs: It mut be Spitted at its whole length,
and basted with Butter, white Wine, Vinegar and green Lem
mon. Then having diolvd Anchovies in the Sauce, strain
them thro' the Hair-fieve, with a little fried Flower, and add
fome Oisters mortified in the Sauce, with Capers and white
Pepper. The Dih may be garnih'd with fried Muhrooms,
Carp-roes and Lemmon-lices.
Pike on Fleh-days, for an Interme.
After having cal'd your Pike, and drawn out the Gurs at the
upper part of the Belly,it mut be calded in luke-warm Water,
and larded with thin Slips of Bacon: Then it mut be roated on
a Spit, and bafted as before; the fame fort of Sauce being alo
prepared for it. The Dih is to be garnih'd with larded Veal
fweet-breads, farced Muhrooms and Lemmon-flices, *

It may alo be dres'd according to the Diretions laid dow


in the firt Article of Trouts under the Letter T.

Pike-potage.
This fort of Potage may be made with Oiters, Turneps, or
Cabbage; cutting the Pike into feveral pieces,whichare to be firt
fried in a Pan with Butter, and afterwards tew'd in an earthen
Pot, with fome Fih-broth, orftrained Peae-foop, eaon'd with
Pepper, Salt, and a Bunch of Herbs : Then having added Oi
fters, the Potage is to be laid a foaking with the Broth, in which
the Fih was ; the Pike mut be dres'd in the fame Po
tage, as alo the Oifters ; and the whole Mes mut be garnihd
with Bread and Muhrooms fried, fqueezing in ome Lemmon
juice, as it is ferving up to Table.
When Turneps are us'd, they mut be fried with burnt But
ter, and Flower and then tew'd with Pepper and Salt. After
wards they are to be laid in good order upon the foaked Cruts,
with the Pike. -

The fame thing may be done with the Cabbage, after it has
been calded and chopt mall, and as for the Pike, it may be
larded with Eels-fleh, A

y
The Court and Country Cook. 197

A Potage may alo be made of farced Pike, and to that pur


poe, it would only be requifire, to look a little backwards up
on the Intrutions contain'd in the preceding Article of farced
Pike Pag. 195. and for the Potage of Pike-Filets and Cruftsfar
ced with Pike, ee the following Articles of Potages.
P L A I c E. .

After having roasted and flah'd your Plaice on the Back, in


form of a Cros, cutting off the Noe and Tail, they are to be
put into a Stew-pan, with white Wine, Fih-roes, Morilles,
common Muhrooms, Truffles, Parly, Chibbol, Thyme, and a
Slice of good Butter, all well thicken'd; but care mut be ta
ken to ftir them gently leaft they hould break. When they are
ready, let them be neatly dres'd and made very white; pour
ing fome good Sauce upon them, and garnihing them with any
thing that is at Hand.
As for thoe that are fried, they must be first strew'd with
Salt and Flower, and when dres'd, they may be ferv'd up, with
Salt and Orange-juice. --

{
*
.*

| P. o 'r A G E s,
Altho' mention has been already made of feveral Potages, as
well for Fleh-days,as thoe of Abtinence; particularly, the Bisk,
Cafferole, Oil and Julian, as alfo Potage ?Lambs-heads, Pike,
Cray-fih, Sea-ducks, Mucles and fome others, according to the
repetive Mees that were treated of : Nevertheles this Sub
jet is very copious, and capable of furnihing matter for a large
Article. A general Account has likewife been given of the #:
culiar Broths, that ought to contitute the Body of all thoe Po
tages, and of all others, as alo of the Cullies that are uually
made: Let us now proceed to a more particular Enumeration of
them; beginning with the Potages ?Pulfe, that may be pro
per for feveral forts of Fowls, to avoid the unprofitable Repe
tition of the fame Thing, for every one of them. -

) O 3 P o r A
198 The Court and Country Cook.
P o r A G E s F o R F L E s H - D A Y s.

Potage with Peae. ..


Take green Peae, and having hell'd them, let the Peae be
fet by a-part, which will ferve to make_green Peae-foop. To
that purpoe, taking the Cods with the Peae, let them be cald
ed a little, with the green top of a Chibbol and a little Parly,
and drain'd from their Liquor: The they mut be pounded -

with a little Bread-crum foak'd in good Broth, and well train'd


thro' a Sieve; fo as your Soop may be fomewhat thick. After
wards your Peae mut be put into a Stew-pan, with a little
Lard; having beforefried in it, a little chop Parily and Savou :
ry: Let all be stew'd together, and moisten'd with good Broth;
adding a Faggot of fine Herbs : When the whole Mesis put
into a Por, and almot ready, the Soop may be pour'd in, and
fome Cabbage-lettice, cut into mall Slices, may alo be tew'd
before the green Peae are put in, all being well eaon'd. , Ler .
your Potage be laid a with good clear Broth, and ha
ving pour'd in a little Peae-foop, let your Fowls be laid in or
der upon the Potage. They may be garnih'd either with farced,
or unfarced Lettice, or with Cucumbers, or elfe with lean Ba
con, accordingly as you hall think fit. Latly, let your Potage
be foak'd with the Soop and green Peae, and let all be ferv'd
up at once.
Many Potages of the like nature are uually made with green
Peae in their Seaon, particularly for Lambs-heads, Ducks,
green Geefe, farced Chickens, young Turkeys and others, which
ought to be boil'd eparately in a Pot, with good Broth. They
are to be garnih'd with Aparagus-tops, farced Lettice, or Cu
cumbers. When green Peae are out of Seaon, the Soop may
be made with old ones; and this fort is more epecially proper
for Ducks, Andouilles, &c.
"Tis an eafie Matter to take Meaures in reference to this Ar
ticle, for Peae-potage on Fih-days; for then the Peae are to
be ftew'd with natural Butter, and the Cruts laid afoaking, with
good Herb-broth, according to the Diretions laid down in the
aft Article of Broths, under the Letter B.
. For the Fowls that are farced, the Method is explain'd in
the repective Articles, where mention is made of thoe Fowls;
and for the ret, fee what is oberv'd in the following Potages.
Potage,
The Court and C75 Cook. I99

Potage, with Turneps.


After having well crap'd your Turneps, cut them into round
pieces, or long-ways, and fry them with Lard and a little
Flower: You may make ue of the fame Lard, in which your
Fowls were fried brown, whether they were Ducks, Teals, green
Geefe, or others; at leat if you would not have them roated a
little on the Spit. So that either Way, all may be put into a
Pot together, with good Broth, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, and a
Faggot of Herbs; adding a brown thickening Liquor,as they are
ftewing: Thus, having laid your Potage a foaking with the
fame Broth, let the Fowls and Turneps be nearly dres'd, and
garnih'd, fometimes with fried_Bread, and fometimes with
Sauages, Andouillets, or young Bacon boil'd together: After
wards let fome Lemmon-juice and good Gravy be put to them,
before they are ferv'd up to Table. Some caue the Turneps to
be boil'd eparately.
Large Geee, green Geee, Ducks and other Fowls of the
like nature, that are uually dres'd with Turneps, ought to
be larded with thick Slips of Bacon, before they are fried; and
the lighter Fowls may be farced, more epecially Chickens.
The Houghs of a Srag, and of a wild Boar, may alo be
ferv'd up in the fame fort of Potage.
A Potage with Turneps may likewie be prepar'd for a Shoul
der of Mutton; which being well mortified, you are to lard
with thick of Bacon, and caue it to be half roafted; as
well as for a farced Leg of Mutton, which mut be fried as the
above-mentioned Fowls.
| Cabbage-potage.
Take large Pigeons, Partridges and other forts of Fowl well
trus'd ; lard them with three or four Rows of Bacon, and let
them be roated only till they come to a colour : In the mean
time, having provided Cabbages that are well headed, let them
be cut into quarters and calded: Then they mut be drain'd
and put into a Pot, as alo the Fowls, with young Bacon par
boil'd, a little weet Bafil, an Onion tuck with Cloves, and one
or two Cloves of Garlick: They mut alo be eaon'd, pouring
in fome good Gravy and Broth, and afterwards all boil'd toge
ther, When they are half boil'd, a brown thickening Liquor
~ - - O 4 mut
2OO The Court and Country Cook.
mut be prepar'd with Lard and Flower, as if it were to make
a good Robert-Sauce. As foon as the Flower has taken colour,
moiten your thickening Ingredients with good Gravy, or with
the fame Cabbage-broth, and when it is ready, turn all upon the
Cabbage. Let your Potage be laid a foaking with good Gra
vy and the Cabbage-broth, when you perceive them to be fa
voury, and that they are well boil'd. Afterwards let the Fowls
be laid ih order upon the Potage ; let a fine Border be made
round about the Dih, or in the Intervals, with youug treaked
Bacon cut into Slices, let all be foak'd with good Broth, and
ferv'd up hot to Table. - -

As for Milan Cabbages and others, after having calded them,


they may be chopt mall and fried, before they are put inro a
Pot, in the above-mentioned manner; except fome of the In-
fides, which are to be preerv'd for garnihing. See alo what
has been already deliver'd upon this Subjetin the firt Article :
of Cabbage, under the Letter C.

Root-potages.
After having made good Broth, pour it into a Pot, and put
in at the fame time a fat Capon, with Parly-roots, Parnips,
and mall Chibbols,entire. . Then, all being boil'd together, let.
your Potage belaid a foaking,with the Capon on the top; gar
nihing it with Parnips and young Chibbols, and foaking it with
good Veal-gravy, before it is ferv'd up to Table.
Potages may alo be made of Quails, young Ring-doves, fat
Pullers and others, with Roots, after the fame manner.

Y
Potages, with Lentils.
Having provided Partridges, Pigeons, Ducks, or other Fowls ;
let them be larded with feveral Rows of Bacon and pitted:
When they are half roated, let them be put into a Pot and
boil'd with good Broth, a Faggot of fine Herbs, and other fea
foning Ingredients. Then taking fome Lentils ready boil'd,
pound them with Onions, Carrets and Parfly-roors, and train
them thro the Hair-fieve, in order to make the Cullis. In the
inean while, having caus'd other Lentils to be tew'd in a Pan,
with a little Parfly, Chibbol and Savoury chopt mall, pour in
fome of the Broth, in which your Fowls were boil'd, as alo
the Cullis, and let all be put into a Pot, till you have laid them
- - 3

----
The Court and Country Cook. 2O T

a foaking and dres'd your Potage. "Twill be requifite to pro


vide fome young treaked Bacon, Cervelas, or Sauages for the
Garniture; and, if the Expences are not grudged, a Border
may b made round about the Dih, with Cocks-combs and
Veal-weet-breads in a Ragoo ; all well dres'd and clear'd
from the Fat. The Potage may alo be enrich'd with a Beef
cullis, Partridge-carcaffes, Cruts of Bread, and a piece of green
Lemmon, all pounded in a Mortar, train'd thro' a Sieve, and
well feafond. See the Lentil-cullis, in the lat Article of Culli
Jes, under the Letter C.
Another fort of Lentil-potage is fometimes made, and gar
nih'd with a farced Loaf in the middle, as well on Fleh-days,
as thoe of Abstinence: For the latter, it may be ferv'd up with
Oil, and more epecially for the Entertainments with Roots, or
on other Days of Lent, when a particular Plate, or Dih may be
made of them, dres'd in a Ragoo, with fine Herbs.
Potage of young Ring-doves, in form of an Oil.
After having neatly trus'd your Ring-doves, let them be
fcalded in Water, and put into a Pot with good Gravy; throw
ing in at the fame time, a Bunch of Leeks cut into pieces, ano
ther of Celery, a third of Turneps, a fourth of other forts of
Roots, a few Chibbols, and a Faggot of fine Herbs. All being
well boil'd, you mut lay your Potage a foaking with the fame
Broth; fetting the Ring-doves in orderin it, and garnihing the
whole Dih with your Roots: Let them alo be foak'd with
good favoury Gravy, and ferv'd up hot to Table. The Gar
nitures ought only to take up the fides of the Dih, fo as the
Soop may be left free: And the fame thing may be done for
Quails, and all other forts of Fowl.
At another time, young Ring-doves may be dres'd in Potage,
with Cabbage, Muhrooms, or otherwife at pleaure.

Potage la Reyne, with Partridges, Quails, or other forts


of Fowl,
Let freh Partridges, after they have been calded and well
trufs'd, be boil'd in good Broth, with a good Faggot of fine
Herbs, fome thin lices of Bacon and pieces of Lemmon; whilst
a Cullis is making of the Breat of a roated fat Pullet, or Ca
pon; minc'd and pounded in a Mortar, with the Crum f: ?
Oa
2O2 The Court and Country Cook.
Loaf foak'd in Broth, and train'd thro' the Hair-fieve. Let
this Cullis be put into a little Pot, well cover'd ; and let your
Potage, that ought to be made of Bread-crufts, be laid a foak
ing with strained Broth, Afterwards fet your Fowls in the
fame Potage, prinkle all with good_Gravy, and before they
are ferved up, fqueez the Juice of a Lemmon into the Cullis:
A farced Loaf mut alo be put in the middle of the Potage,
with the Fowls round about; the Cullis mut be pour'd upon
them; and a Border is to be made about the Dih, with farced
Cocks-combs, Sweet-breads of Veal larded and roafted, other
Slices of Veal-weet-breads in a Ragoo, and Artichoke-bottoms:
Lastly, the Breasts of the Partridges, or other Fowls, mut be
cover'd with Slices of black Truffles, and all dipos'd of in good
order. As for the farced Loaf, it mut be stuff'd with a good
Hah of a roafted Fowl, pieces of Truffles and Muhrooms, and
fmall Aparagus-tops, according to the Seaon.
A leer quantity of Potage, may be made of a fingle Pari
tridge, without a farced Loaf, oberving all the rest of the Cir
cumtances, as much as Convenience, or the allotted Expences
will admit of. "

A Potage of farced Partridges, may be alo prepard ; which


ought to be garnih'd with larded Fricandoes dres'd in a Ra
oo, alo Veal-weet-breads, Muhrooms, Artichoke-bottoms,
ocks-combs, and Truffles; adding the Juice of a Lemmon,
when brought to Table. -

Another white Potage la Reyne.


This fort of Potage does not require any Fowl ; only the
Breat of a Capon, and a piece of a Neck of Veal, fome Al
monds, two or three Yolks of hard Eggs, and the Crum of a
Loaf steept in good Broth. All thee Ingredients are to be
pounded in a Morrar, and afterwards laid a foaking in a Sauce
pan, with good Gravy and Broth, till they have acquird an
exquiite Relih : Then they mut be strain'd thro a Sieve, and
fpread over the Potage, when it is ufficiently foakd; which
may alo be marbled with well eaon'd Gravy.
Potages of farced Quails and young Partridges.
Having caus'd your Quails to be farced, with Capons-breafts,
Beef-marrow, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and the Yolks of raw
Eggs,
The Court and Country Cook. - 23
Eggs, let them be tew'd in good Broth, with a Bunch of
4.
Herbs, as in the preceding Porage. For the Cullis, train thro'
the Sieve, two Bottoms of boil'd Artichokes, and fix Yolks of
Eggs, with the fame Quail-broth, and ler them, be gently
stew'd over the hor Embers. Then dres your Quails upon the
foaked Crufts, and garnih them with mall Artichoke-bottoms;
pouringin the Cullis,with Muhroom-juice and Mutton-gravy,as
they are ferving up to Table. A Ragoo of Turkeys may alo
be made, for that purpoe, or ele the Quails may be tuff'd with
Sweet Bail. -

As for large Partridges and young Partridges, that are farced,


after they have been boil'd in good Broth, a white Cullis may
be prepard for them, with Almonds and green Lemmon. They
may be garnih'd with Cocks-combs and Muhrooms, adding
fome Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice, when ready to be
brought to Table.

Potage, without Water.


Take a good piece f Beef, another of Mutton, part of a
Fillet ofv a Capon, four Pigeons and two Partridges;
all the Fowls being well trus'd, and the Butchers-meat fuffi
ciently bearen. Then pur them into a Pot that is well tinn'd
over, with Slices of Onions, Parnips and Parfly-roots, and
feaon them with all forts of fine Herbs and a little Salt. In
the mean while, having provided fome Pate and trong Paper,
let the Edges of your Pot be topt up cloe; fo as all the Steam
may be keptin, and that the leaft Air may not either be ler
in or out. Afterwards let this Pot be fet into another of a
larger fize, the void pace being fill'd with hot Water and stuff'd
with Hay, to the end that the leffer Pot may remain teady in
its proper place, without moving on either fide : Thus the Wa
ter in the greater Pot mut be kept continually boiling, and cloe
ftopt up, for the pace of five or fix Hours. When that time is
expird, it mut be uncoverd, fo as all the Gravy of the Meat
may be pour'd off, and well clear'd from the Fat : Let the
Fowls that were tew'd, be minc'd, in order to farce a Loaf,
with good Garnitures; then let the Soop, as well as the Loaf,
be foak'd with the fame Gravy ; and let a Ragoo be made of
all forts of Garnitures, fried in Lard, to be pour'd thereupon.
Laftly, let the whole Mes be neatly dres'd, and garnih'd with
farced Cocks-combs, Veal-weet-breads, or omething ele of
she like nature, in order to be erv'd up to Table. Po
2O4 The Court and Country Cook.

Potage de Sant.
After having caus'd fome good Broth of Buttock-beef, a
Knuckle of Veal and Mutton, to be put into a Pot, with Ca
ns, fat Pullets, or other Fowls proper for the Potage de Santi,
and having made the fame Broth very favoury ; let the Crusts
be foak'd with it, whilft ome fine Herbs are boiling in another
Pot, uch as Sorrel, Purlain, Chervil, &c. all cut very mall.
Thee Herbs may ferve to garnih your Porage and Fowls; or
they may be train'd, fo as nothing be put into the Dih, but
the Broth and good Gravy, when ferved up to Table.
Another fort of Potage de Sant, is made quite clear, of a
Chicken or Pullet, and a piece of a Fillet of Veal, without any
Garniture ; only it may be brought to a colour, by paffing the
red-hot Fire-hovel over it.

Potage of farced Chickens.


The Chickens must be farced with a good Godivoe, between
the Skin and the Fleh; the Breasts may be alo taken away.
When they are well order'd and calded, they mut be put into
a Pot, with good Broth, and may be garnih'd with Vea-weet
breads and Cocks-combs, as a Bisk, or with Pulfe; a Cullis
and ome Gravy being added, before they are fet on the Table.
See hereafter, different forts of farced Chickens.

Potage of Barn-door-chickens.
After they have been farced with a delicious Godivoe, foak'd
in Cream, let them be well boil'd in a Por, and garnih'd with
fried Pate or Pulfe ; queezing in ome Lemmon-juice, before
they are brought to Table.
Potage of farced Chickens, with Onions.
Let a white Cullis be made of Capons-breafts, or of Veal,
and three or four Yolks of hard Eggs, all well pounded in a
Mortar, with fome Bread-crum foak'd in good Broth : After
this Mixture has been eaon'd, let it have five or fix Seethings in
a Stew-pan. Then, havingstrain'd it thro' the Hair-fieve,fqueez
in the Juice of a Lemmon, and prinkle all your Potage with it,
when ready to be ferv'd up to Table. The
The Court and Country Cook. 25
The Potage of Pigeons with a white Cullis, garnih'd with
white Onions, or Cardoons, is uually prepard after the fame :
InannCT, - -

Potage of farced Chiekens, garnih'd with Chefnuts.


Let your Chickens be boil'd in the ordinary Pot, and the
Chefnuts in a little Pot a-part (after their fecond Skin has been
peel'd off) with favoury Broth; but fo as they be not broken.
With thee a Border is to be made round about the Dih and the
- Chickens, which are to be prinkled with a good Cullis, as
they Iye a foaking, and with Lemmon-juice, as they are ferving
up to Table.

Another Potage of farced Chickens.


A Potage of Chickens is alo fometimes made, with a green
Cullis, Aparagus, and a Border of young treaked Bacon.
A Patage of Chickens and other forts of Fowl, with Cucum
bers.

Let your Chickens, Pullets, or Capons, be boil'd, in well-ea


fon'd Broth, according to the uual manner. As for the Cu
e cumbers; after having taken out the Seeds and calded them in
Water, let them be tuff'd with a good Farce, and tew'd in
Broth , with Salt and a Bunch of Herbs: In the mean while,
let fome Yolks of poach'd Eggs be train'd thro' the Hair-fieve,
with Beef-juice and good Broth, and let them be boil'd and
foak'd a-part. Then dres your Potage with the Crufts, the
Chickens in the middle, the farced Cucumbers for Garnitures,
and the Cullis pour'd upon all, with Lemmon-juice. The ame
thing ought to be oberv'd in drefing Turkey-powts, and other
Fowls of the like nature. *

Other Potages may be prepar'd with Cucumbers, without


farcing, only
fore.
# them in Lard, and drefing them, as be

Potage, with Crusts farced with Partridge-breasts.


As foon as the Partridges are roafted, take their Breats and
cu; them into mall pieces, in form of a Die, and * :
- choke
2o6 _ The Court and TETook.
choke-bottoms in like manner: Let thee be tew'd together,
and made very favoury, in order to farce your Cruts; and let |
|

a Cullis be made of a piece of Beef roated brown, which you


mut pound in a Mortar, with the Partridge-carcaffes, and let :
all boil in a Sauce-pan; eaoning them as much asis requifite.
Afterwards they are to be train'd thro' the Sieve, with good
Gravy and a piece of Lemmon, and the Crufts are to be foak'd
with them. astly, let a mall Mutton-hah be made, which is
to be trew'd on the top, whilt a Border of Crufts is fer round :
about the Dih. -

Another Potage is omerimes made of Crufts farced with Len


tils, with a Cullis of the fame; as for Pigeons, and other forts
of Fowl, before-mention'd in the fifth Article, and 'tis an eafie :
thing to order others, conformably to the Model of the former,
according to the Variety of Meats that are to be dres'd ; or
ele the Loaf may be tuff'd with a good Ragoo. -
Another Potage, with Crusts farced with Gammon.
The Cruftsare to be farced with Gammon, Veal-weet-breads,
Capons-breafts, Moufferons and Artichoke-bottoms, all cur into
little quare pieces, and tew'd in a Ragoo with a Veal-cullis:
Let thee Cruts be enclos'd in others, and neatly ried up, that
they may not be broken, as they are foaking. When they are
ready, let them be drefs'din the Potage, and garnih'd in a Dih,
fprinkling them with the Juice of a Lemmon.
Potage of Profitrolle. ^

Having provided a little round Loaf, of the fame fortas thoe


for Soop, with Crufts ; let it be farc'd, and foak'd with Veal
gravy and good Broth : . Let it alo be dres'd upon the other
, foaked Crufts, with a little of a Partridge or Capon-hah. Then
having prepar'd a Cullis, with the Meats of which the Gravy
vas made, and having train'd it, let it be pour'd upon the
|
Ptage. When you would have it ferv'd up, a fine Artichoke
bottom may be laid upon the Loaf, with fome Muhrooms on
the infide, and it may be garnih'd with Fricandoe's, or Veal
fweet-breads. - l

A
The Court and Country Cook. 27

A Potage of Profitrolle, garnihd with Poupiets.


Let the Poupiets, the manner of ordering which you'll find in
its proper place, be put into a Dih or Sauce-pan; and ler a Cul
lis be made of a piece of roated Veal, pounded in a Mortar,
well eaon'd and strain'd thro' the Hair-fieve, for the foaking
of your Poupiets. Then a Ragoo is to be made of Veal-weet
breads, Cocks-combs, Truffles, Morilles, Maustrons, common
Muhrooms and Artichoke-bottoms, all dres'd with white Sauce,
and well eaon'd ; with which the Potage is to be garnih'd,
the Profitrolle-loaf being laid in the middle, and the Juice of a
Lemmon queez'd in, as it is erving up to Table.
Another Potage of Profitrolle.
This Potage is to be fet out with fix mall Loaves and one
great one in the middle, that is to fay, three farced with Gam
mon; three others with Capons; and the large one, with a Hah
of Gammon and Capon; as alo, Veal-weet-breads, Truffles,
Moufferons, common Muhrooms, and Artichoke-bottoms cut
into pieces in form of a die. The whole Mes is to be gar
ind with iarded Fricandoe, or Scotch Collops fried brown,
a Border of Cocks-combs, and a Ragoo of Moufferons, or com
mon Muhrooms, with Artichoke-bottoms and Aparagus-tops,
all dres'd with white Sauce ; fqueezing in the Juice of a Lem
mn, when ready to be brought to Table.
See afterwards the Potages of Profitrolles for Fih-days.

Potage of a Capon, or of a Fat Pullet, with Rice.


Let the Rice be boil'd in good Broth, and then ferve to gar
nih your Capon or fat Pullet; upon the foaked Crufts. Af
terwards you mut trew ome raped Parmefan and grated
Cinnamon on the top, and give it a colour, with the red-hot
Fire-hovel. The Side of the Dih may be garnih'd with Bread-
crusts made very brown with Lard, in order to be ferv'd up
with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice. -

The Potage of Vermicelli is made after the fame mannee.

Potage
28 The Court and Country Cook.

Potage of Teals and other Fowls, with Muhrooms.


Lard your Teals with middle-fizd Slips of Bacon, and after
having fried them in Lard, let them be stew'd in good Broth,ac
cording to the uual manner, with Salt, and a Bunch of Herbs:
In the mean time, let fome Muhrooms and Flower be tos'd up
in the fame Lard, and put to the Teals, when they are half
ftewd. Laftly, let them be neatly dres'd, and ferv'd up in Sli
ces, with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice.
The Muhroom-potages have been already explain'd in the
fourth Article of Muhrooms. -

Potage, with Truffles. | -

The Truffles must be boil'din good Brothand Gravy in a little


Pot, with a Faggot of Herbs and a thickening Liquor, that is
well enrich'd. When the Potage is ufficiently foakd, and the
Truffles dres'd, they must be laid in order therein, adding fome
Lemmon-juice, when the Dih is ferv'd up to Table: A Profi
trolle-loaf may alo be fet in the middle.
For the Potages of young Pheaants, Quails and other forts of
Fowl, which you would have dres'd with Truffles, let them be
pnt into a Potin the uual manner, and well eaon'd. But your
Truffles mut be cut into little pieces and not into Slices, and af
-ter having fried them in a little Lard, they mut be ftewed, as
before. make the Potage brown, let a good Cullis of Beef
or Mutton be pour'd in, and fome Lemmon-juice, before the
Dih is brought to Table. -

Potage, with Truffles and Moufferons.


Let a Cullis of Veal or Capons-breafts be well feaon'd, and
let a Loaf farced with every thing that you hall think fit, be fet
in the middle of the Potage. Thendres your Truffles and Mouf:
ferons in a good Ragoo, and garnih the Potage with them ;
| a DIC.
s
in the Juice of a Lemmon, when ready to be feton the
-

Po
v

The Court and Country Cook. , 2o9

Potages of farced Pigeons, with a brown Cullis.


Let Onions be fried brown to make the Border; whilt a
Cullis is preparing with a piece of Beef roated very brown,
and pounded in the Mortar with Crufts of Bread: Then let ali
be ftew'd in a Sauce-pan and well feafon'd, and afterwards
ftrain'd thro' a Hair-fieve, with the Juice of a Lemmon,to foak
the Potage, when ready to be ferv'd up. It ought alo to be
enrich'd with Muhrooms, Artichoke-bottoms, and other forts of
Garnitures. - - -

Potage of Pigeons, with Radihes.


Having larded your Pigeons, with thick Slips of Bacon, and
having fried them till they come to a fine brown colour, letthem
be gently ftew'd in good Broth, with a Bunch of Herbs : Let
a thickening Liquor be alo prepar'd with fine Herbs and pour'd
upon them. When the Crufts are foak'd in good Broth, garnih
your Potage with the Radihes that are very white and neatly
dres'd; one part of them being cut into little quare pieces, and
the other remaining entire.
A Potage of fafced Pigeons, likewife fried brown, may be
made after the fame manner; fo as a thickening Liquor may be
added as they are tewing, and the Dih garnih'd in the
manner, with Radihes.

Potage of Pigeons, with a white Culis.


. This Potage may be garnih'd with Poupiets, and the Limbs
of Barn-door-chickens marinated and fried. A white Cullis is
to be pour'd upon the Pigeons, and a Loaf fet in the middle; or
ele a Border may be made of Aparagus, with a Profitrolle-loaf,
|Table. 8 fome Lemmon-juice upon it, v hen ferved up to
- * -

See the white Potage of Pigeons with Onions, before decribed


in the fourteenth Article. - , -

Parmefan-potage. -

This Potage may be garnih'd with little Profitrolle-loaves,


very neatly chipt, which are to be foak'd in melted Lard,
-* atter
-

2 IO The Court and Coantry Cook.


afterwards strew'd with raped Parmefan, to be brought to a
colour in the Oven. When the Potage is laid a foaking in a
Dih, a Lay mut be made of Parmefan, another of fome good
Meat-hah, and a third of Cinnamon: This is to be done twice,
and all may be colour'd by means of the red-hot Fire-hovel.
Then let your be garnih'd on the Sides, with Crusts of
Bread made very brown, the Middle with your Laves, and
the Intervals with Veal-weet-breads, larded Fricandoes, Truffles
and Cocks-combs; queezing in the Juice of a Lemmon, when
ferv'd up to Table.
For another Parmefan-potage, let the Fleh of a Chicken be
minc'd very mall, which mut be trew'd upon the Crufts, and
afterwards fome raped Parmefan on the top. A Loaf may be
laid in the middle, and the whole Mes may be fet out with Ar
tichoke-bottoms, and other uual Garnitures ; or elfe it may be
left without garnihing, only giving it a fine colour with the red
hot Fire-hovel.
For a Cafferole, with Parmean, fee the econd Article of
Cafferole, under the Letter C.

Potage of Quails, with a Blanc-manger.


Having tew'd your Quails in good Broth, with Salt and a
Bunch of Herbs, pound fome Almonds, which are to be train'd
thro a Sieve into the fame Broth, and let them boil, with a
little Cinnamon and Sugar: Then cover the Bottom of your
Dih of Potage, with Macaroons, Biskets and March-panes, and
when the Quails are dres'd, pour the white Broth upon them;
arnihing all with Slices of Lemmon, as alo with the Juice and
ernels of Pomegranate, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
The other Potages of Quails hall be hereafter explain'd,
either in particular in the Article of Quails, under the Letter Q.
or elewhere, with repet to other Fowls.

Potage of Partridges, with brown Broth.


Lard your Partridges with middle-fizd Slips of Bacon, fry
them in Lard with a little Flower, and afterwards put all into
a Pot, with good Broth, a Faggot of Herbs, and as much Salt
as is needful. In the mean while, the Cullis is to be made of a
piece of roafted Beef tew'd in the fame Partridge-broth, and
kept hot: Then let ome boil'd'Artichoke-bottoms be cut into
- pieces
The Court and Country Cook. 2II

pieces and thrown into the Cullis, with Slices of Lemmon and
r;
Cocks-combs ftew'd, and put into a Ragoo. When the Potage
is ufficiently foakd, dres your Partridges and Garnitures, pour
the Cullis upon them, with fome Slices and Juice of Lemmon,
as they are ferving up to Table. * -

A Potage may alo be made with Cray-fih, oberving the


Diretions given for the making of that fort of Potage on Fih
days, in the fecond Article of Cray-fih. It may be garnih'd
with Veal-weet-breads, Capons-livers, Fricandoes, Partridge
Pains, and other Things that are at hand.
See above, the Partridge-potages that are made with Cab
bage, Lentils, and other forts of Pulfe. . . . . --

rotage of a Breast of Veal and Capon, with a Loafin the


AMiddle. . - -

The Loaf must be farc'd with the Breasts of Capons and


C Partridges and ome Mutton minc'd together, as alo Artichoke
bottoms and Veal-weet-breads cut into little quare pieces,
Truffles, Cocks-combs and Muhrooms in a Ragoo, and a Veal
cullis. This Loaf ought to be open on the Top, fo as the Ra
goo may be een, and marbled with Veal-gravy and Lemmon
juice. After having dres'd the Potage, it mut be garnihd
round about the Veal-weet-breads and Cocks-combs, all tew'd
with Sauce, addingfome Lemmon-juice when ferv'd up
to Table. ,- , - -

Potage of young Turkey, with succoy.


Take young Turkeys, large fat Pullets, Chickens and other
Fowls, and boil them in a Pot after the uual manner, with
Broth, Salt and a Bunch of Herbs: Let your Succory be cald
ed in Water, and boil'd with the ret: Then let the Potage be
dres'd and laid a foaking, garnihing it with Succory, and fer
ving it up, with natural Broth, Mutton-gravy and Muhrooms.
Potage offat Pullets.
Let a large fat Pullet be cut into pieces, and marinated in
Lemmon-juice or Verjuise, with the other feaoning Ingre
dients: Then let a Pate be made with Verjuice to fry them in,
| ",
till they come to a fine colour, order to garnih the Potage
2. round
2I 2 The Court and Country Cook.
round about another fat Pullet, that has been well boil'd in good
Broth. In the mean while, prepare a Cullis with the Bones of
the marinated Pullet, Crufts of Bread and good Broth, and
fprinkle your Potage with it, as it lies a foaking, as alo with
the Juice of a Lemmon, before it is brought to Table.
Potage after the Italian Mode.
This Potage is a kind of Oil dres'd in a large Dih, after
having made a Partition in it, in form of a Cros, with Pate
baked in the Oven. In one of the Squares, a Bk is to be put;
in the econd a Potage, of young Chickens; in the third, a Po
tage la Reyne, with a Profitrolle-loaf; and in the fourth, a Po
tage of farced Partridges; all in their peculiar Broths, and with
different Garnitures, as rich as they poibly can be.

Fotage of farced green Geee.


Let a Farce be made with the Livers and Hearts of Geee,
fine Herbs, and an Omeler of four Eggs, which are to be
unded together in a Mortar, and well eaon'd, in order to
ff your Geee between the Skin and the Fleh. Then boil
them in good Broth, and prepare fome green Peae-foop to be
z pour'd upon the Potage. For want of new Peae, old ones may
taken, to make the green Cullis; and the whole Mes may
be garnih'd with farced Lettice.
. . White Potage. -
|
The Potage la Reyne, decribed in the feventh Article, may
be fo call'd, as well as thee that follow.
Having caus'd the Breafts of Chickens or Capons to be minc'd
very mall, trew them upon your oaked Potage; marbling it
with very brown Veal-gravy, and queezing in fome Lemmon
juice, when ferv'd up to Table.
Otherwie pound the Fleh of a Pullet or ome Capons-breafts
in a Mortar, with a piece of very white Bread-crum, train all
thro the Hair-fieve, and when the Crufts are foakd, pour this
Cullis upon them, without any Garniture. -

Pe
*: - ----
-,

The Court and Country Cook. . 213

Potage of boned Capons, with Oisters.


After having taken out the Bones of your Capons, reerving
the Skins entire, tuff the Skins with the fame Fleh, Beef-ew
et or Marrow, pounded Lard, fine Herbs, Pepper, Salt, Nut
meg and Yolks of Eggs, and let them boil in good Broth : Af
terwards fry Oifters, Muhrooms and Flower in a Pan, and put
all to the apons, when they are almt ready: Let them be
dres'd and orderly ferv'd up, with Lemmon-juice and Muh
TOOmS. - -

For the other Porages that are made of Fih on Fleh-days,ee


here after that of Soles. ---*

P o r A G E s F o R F 1 s H - D A Y .
Potage de Sant.
Let Purflain, Lettice, Sorrel, Beets and other good Herbs, be
cut and tewd a little with Butter in an earthen Pot, to take
away their Crudity: Then put fome boiling Water to them,
with Salt, a Bunch of fine Herbs, and a Loaf, or Cruft which
is to be fet in the middle of the Potage. The Herbs may be
ftrain'd, if you hall think fit; or they may be erv'd up to
Tble and garnih'd, with young Lettice, Muhroom-juice, and a
Spoonful of Peae-foop. -

The Potage without Butter, and the Julian, come fo near to


i that it would be needles to give a particular Decription
Oi II16.Iml, I -

Potage of Moufferons and Morilles, with Cream.


The Moufferons and Morilles must be tew'd, or fried in good
Butter with fine Herbs, after the fame manner s in Oil, for
other forts of Potages. When the Crufts are ufficiently foakd,
the Cream mut be pur with the Moufferons into the Stew-pan in
which they are dres'd, with a Faggot of Herbs, and all mut
be well thicken'd: At the fame time, the Potage is to be dres'd,
with a Profitrolle-loaf in the middle, and Lemmon-juice, before
it is ferved up. The fide of the Dih may be fet out with Mouf:
ferons fried in Fritters, or fome other corivenient Garnitures.
P 3 Pg
2I4 The Court and Country Cook.

Potage of Onions, with a white Cullis.


This Potage may be dres'd, if you pleae, with a Loaf in
the middle; whilst a Cullis is preparing, with white Almonds,
Parly-roots and Bread-crum oak d in Peae-foop, all train'd
thro a Hair-five. The fame Cullis is proper not only for the
Onions; but alo for Cardoons, Goars-bread, Skirrets, &c.
Another Potage may be made of Onions, cut into quare
pieces, and fried brown; to be with other Onions cut
into round pieces, and fried as Fritters, or ele whole: As alo
a Ptage Onions, with weet Bafil.

Potage, with Hops.


' The Hops are to be well calded, tied up in Bunches, and
frew'd in good Peae-loop, or in fome other fort of Broth pro :
r for Fih-days: Then the Potage may be garnih'd, with a
oaf in the middle. -

Potage of Purflain.
The Purlain, if it be mall, must be laid at its wholelength
into a little Por, and boil'd in Broth, or Peae-foop, with an
Onion ftuck with Cloves, a Carret, a few Parnips, and a thick
ening Liquor: When it is ready, and the Cruts are well foak
ed, the Potage may be garnih'd in the uual manner.
Potage, with young Sprouts.
Let ome Sprouts be well pickt and thrown into fair Water:
Then after they have been calded, let them be put into a Pot,
pouringina fmall Cullis,asfor the Purlain; and letthem be gar
nih'd with other Sprouts.
Potage of Radihes.
After they have been well crap'd, leave a mall Bunch of the
Greens at the end : Then let them be fcalded and boil'd in .
good Broth, with fome thickening Liquor. This Potage must
e dres'd after the ame manner as that of Purlain. *=?

Fes
v -

The Court and Country Cook. 21 5

Potage, with Cucumbers.


:
Let your Cucumbers be calded,andstew'd in good Peae-foop,
with an Oniontuck with Cloves, and fome Roots of Herbs chopt
mall : Then a thickening Liquor mut be made, as for other
Potages, on Fleh-days, and the Dih fet out with Cucumbers
and 8 They may alo be farced with Herbs, or Fih, and
garnih'd with Aparagus-tops, acording to the Seaon.
Afaragus-potage.
For want of Peae, pounded Aparagus may be strain'd thro'
the Hair-fieve, with Herb-broth, to make the green Cullis;
whilt other Aparagus are fried in Butter, with fine Herbs, and
afterwards laid a foaking, eaon'd with Salt and Nutmeg. The
Potage mut be cover'd, with the Cullis pour'd into it, and you
may add fome natural Cream, or Yolks of Eggs, if the time
will allow it.

Potage, of farced Lettice.


: Oberve the preceding Diretions for farced Lettice, laid
down in that Article, under the Letter L; except, that they ought
now to be stuff'd with a good Fih-farce, uch as is before de
feribed in the Article of Farces; and, if the Entertainment be
for Days of greater Abtinence, or if Fih be wanting,
et them be tuff'd with a good Farce of fine Herbs, eaon'd
with Pepper,Salt,Nutmeg f Yolks of Eggs,or Cream. For the
rest, they mut be boil'd in trained Peae-oop, or Herb-broth,
and dres'd upon the Crufts,ak'd, with the fame Broth; adding
a white Cullis and Muhroom-juice, when ready to be ferv'd
up. The whole Mes may be fet out with fried Bread, or fome
other convenient Garniture,

Marbled Potage.
This is a Potage of Almond-milk, to which are added, Yolks
of Eggs, Sugar, Cinnamon and a little Salt. It mut be dres'd
upon Bread, or Biskers, and marbled with the Juice, or Jelly
9 Currans, Beet-juice boil'd with Sugar and range-flowers.
The Dih is to be garnih'd with Pomegranate-kernels and mall
Sugar-plums, P 4 . P0
216 The Court and Country Cook.

Potage, with Fennel.


Let Fennel be chopt very mall, and put into a little Pot;
oberving, for the ret, the fame Diretions as for the following
Potage.
Potage, with Spinage.
Take only the Heart or foundet part of the Spinage, which
mut be chopt mall and tew'd in a little Pot with Peae-foop, a
Carret, an Onion ftuck with Cloves, and the other eaoning
Ingredients. As the Crufts are foaking, crape in fome Parme
fan, and dres your Potage; garnihing it with ticks of Cinna
mon, round about, and one in the middle; or elfe with Onions,
or fried Bread.
Potage of Vine-buds.
Cut off the larget Leaves of your Buds, and take care that
none of the Wood be left : Then having fcalded 'em in boil
ing Water and tied them up in Bunches, let them be tew'd
in a little Pot, with a Carret, a Parnip, Parly-roots, an Oni
on tuck with Cloves, a few Turneps cut into quarters, and
a Clove of Garlick. Add to thee as they are drefing, a little
thickening Liquor, and garnih your Potage, with other Buds
and a Loaf in the middle.

Green Peafe-potage.
See the Peae-potage for Fleh-days, and oberve the fame
Method ; except, that your Peae mut now be dres'd with
weet Butter, and ferv'd up in good Broth. For fimple Peae
foop, the Dih may be fet out with Cucumbers, Artichoke-bot
toms, Aparagus-tops, and other things of the like nature.
, Cabbage-potage.
See likewife the Cabbage-potage for Fleh-days, in the third
Article, where the manner of preparing it is fully explaind;
retrenching the Lard, and making ue only of Butter and Broth
that is proper for Fih-days, or trained Peae-oop. This Po
tage
<-.
*** A.
The Court and Country Cook. 217
tagemut be garnih'd with the infide of ome Cabbage, Arti
choke-bottoms and fried Bread.

Potage of Citrulls, with Milk.


Cut your Citrullsinto very mall quare pieces; and fry them
in natural Butter, with Salt, Parfly, Chervil and fine Herbs.
Then let them be put into an Earthen Pot, with boiling Milk,
and dres them upon the foak'd Crufts. Garnih the Dih with
with fried Bread, and trew it with white Pepper, as it is fer
ving up to Table.
|

Melon-potage.
Let the Melons be cut as the Citruls, and fried likewie with
Butter : Then let them be tewed, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt
and a Bunh of Herbs, and train'd thro' the Hair-fieve, with
the fame Broth ; with which the Crufts are alo to be foakd.
Afterwards having dres'd the Potage, ferve it up, garnihd
with fried Melons and Pomegranate-kernels, -

Potage, with Mufcadine-grapes.


Let good Almond-milk be prepard, according to the Me
thod laid down in the fecond Article of Almonds, under the
Letter A. and when you have a mind to dres your Soop, let
fome Mufcadine-grapes be put into it, after they have been
ftoned. Intead of Crufts, or other pieces of Bread, let the Po
tage be dres'd with Macaroons, or Biskets, and garnih'd with
Mufcadine-grapes, preerv'd with Sugar; marbling it with the
Juice of a and that of Currans, when ferv'd up to
Table,

Potage of Artichoke-cardoons.
The Cardoons mut be cut very hort, calded and boil'd in
Water, with Butter, Salt, and a Cruft of Bread : Then they
are to be put into melted Butter ; whilt the Potage is foaking
with good Herb-broth : Let the Cruft of a mall Loaf belaid
entire in the middle ; let the Cardoons be dres'd in form of a
Dome or Coronet, upon the Bread; and let fome craped Par
mean be added, You may alo prepare a white Cullis, "s":
EHE

A
218 The Court and Country Cook.
the whole Mes again with crap'd Cheee, and garnihing it
with Capers and Lemmon-lices.
Potage of white Cabbage and young Chibbols, with Milk.
After the Cabbage hasbeen calded in Water, let it be chopt
and fried in natural Butter : Then let it be put into hot Milk,
feaon'd with Pepper, Salt and a Faggot of fine Herbs, and
dres'd upon Slices of Bread.
f fame thing is to be done with young Chibbols cut very
iIlall. -

Potage of Artichoke-bottoms.
Cut your Bottoms into halves, and fry them in burnt Butter,
with Flower, or in natural Butter; reerving one entire, for the
middle of the Potage : Then purthem into an earthep Pot, with
clear Peae-foop, Salt and fine Herbs, and when they are ready,
dres them upon the foaked Crufts; in order to be ferv'd up,
with Capers and Muhroom-juice.
Thee Potages are more than fufficient, as to what relates to
Herbs and Pulfe ; either for Good Friday, or for the other
Fih-days throughout the whole Year: Let us now proceed to
the Fih-potages, of which we have not as yet given a particu
lar Account. -

F 1 s H - p o r A G = s. *

Sturgeon-potage. -

When the Sturgeon is well cleans'd, let it be stew'd for a


while in Water, with Butter, Salt and a Bunch of fine Herbs:
As foon asit is half done, take away this Liquor or Broth, and
put the Fih again into a Stew-pan, or_earthen Pan, with white
Wine, Pepper, Salt, beaten Cloves, Verjuice, Onions, and a
Bay-leaf or two, with which you mut make an end of boiling
it : In the mean while, fry fome Muhrooms and Flowerin But.
ter, whichare to be put into the first Broth for your Potage, with
a Spoonful of Peae-foop. Then let the Crusts of Bread be
foakd with it, in a round or Oval Dih, and the Sturgeon drefsd
therein, after having_been well drain'd. : You may garnih
the whole Mes, with Oiters, Muhrooms and Capers; adding
fome Juice and Slices of Lemmon, when ready to be ferv'd up
to Table. - Tur:
The Court and Country Cook. 2I9

Turbot-potage.
Let the Turbot be cal'd, wrapt up in a Linnen-cloth and
boil'd in one half white Wine and the other Water, with Ver
juice, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves and Bay-leaves: Then
let the Crufts be foak'd in good Fih-broth, and when the Tur
bot is drain'd, let it be dres'd and garnih'd, with Muhrooms,
upon the Body of the Fih; but the fides of the Dih mut be fer
out, with farced Muhrooms, Roes, Oiters, Capers and Slices
of Lemmon, with Juice of the fame.

Potage of freh Salmon.


The Salmon mut be cal'd, cut into pieces, and parboil'd as
the Sturgeon, to get the Broth : Afterwards it mut be eaon'd
with Salt, fine Herbs chopt mall, and trained Peae-foop ; and
whilt the Crufts are foaking, your Salmon when well cafon'd,
M, must be boil'd outright over a gentle Fire. When 'tis requifite
to ferve it up, let it be dres'd, and garnih'd with farced Muh
rooms, Carp-roes, tew'd Muhrooms, Capers, the Juice and Sli
ces of Lemmon and Muhroom-juice.

Sole-potage for Fih-days.


To prepare a Potage of Soles, having provided fome of the
bet fort, that are very freh, let them be crap'd and well wah'd :
If they are mall, take two of them to be farced, but if large,
only one, to be fet in the middle of your Potage, The Sole
that you would have farced, mut be neatly taken by the Head,
| and queez'd on the top, to get out the Bone entire. Then ta
king a little of this Fleh and of that of a Carp, to make a Farce
of it, with Chibbol, Parly and Bread-crum, fet it together a
gain in the fame manner as when it was whole. It mut be
farc'd all at once, and other Soles mut be fried, in order to
get the Filets for the garnihing of the Potage. In the mean
while, a good Ragoo ought to be made, in the fame manner
as for the Cray-fih-potage, and alo a Cullis of the like nature.
Afterwardslet the Potage belaida foaking with good Fih-broth,
whilst the farced Soleis frying, which mut be laid in the Po.
| tage, when it is ufficiently foakd, and ready to be ferv'd up.
Lastly, let the Filets of the other fried Soles be suam
arP
22O The Court and Country Cook.
Carp-roes and Artichoke-bottoms ; let the Ragoo be pour'd
round about, and let the Sole remain uncoverd, fo as it may ap
ar of a fine colour, when the whole Mes is brought hot to
able.
If it be not the time of Lent, an Omelet may be made to be
mingled with the Farce, and instead of frying the Soles, they
may alo be put into a Baking-pan rubb'd with Butter: They
mut be breaded to give them a colour, and bak'd in an Oven
moderately heated. -

A Potage may likewife be made only of Sole-Filets, with a


Loaf in the middle, garnih'd with Onions fried brown ; alo a
Potage of Sole-Filets, with weet Bafil.
Potage of Soles on Fleh-days.
The Broth and Gravy are the fame as for other Potages that
are proper for Fleh-days. For the rest, having provided Soles,
take the raw Filets of ome of them, and stuff them neatly with
, larded Veal-weet-breads, which may ferve for the Garniture
of your Potage: For the farced Solein the middle of the Potage;
let it be fcrap'd, and a Hole made in the Head, to get out the
Bone, fo as the Skin may remain altogether entire : Take ome
of the Fleh of the fame Sole, with a little parboil'd Bacon, a
few pieces of Veal-weet-breads, Truffles and Muhrooms, all
well minc'd, and to make the Farce more delicious, 'twould be
requifite to put into it fome Bread-crum foak'd in a little Milk ;
binding it with gwo Yolks of Eggs,and adding a little chopt Par
fly and Chibbol. Then the Sole mut betuff'd with this Farce,
and when ready to be ferv'd up, it mut be flowerd and fried
in Lard, till it come to a fine colour. With the rest of the Farce,
fome mall Andouillets are to be made and fried, flowering and
breading them, after they have been dipt in beaten Eggs, to
the end that the Bread may tick to them. As for the Filets ;
when they are larded with the Veal-weet-breads, they muftbe
flowerd a little, and fried in the fame Lard. The Potage be
ing well foak'd, let it be garnih'd with thee Filets, as alo with
Veal-weet-breads and Andouillets ; let the Sole be fet in the
middle of the Potage, with a Ragoo of Lamb-weet-breads and
Truffles, according to the Seaon ; let all be well garnih'd ; let
the be foak'd in good Gravy ; and let the whole
Mes be ferv'd up hot to Table.
At another time, the Sole in the middle may be larded, and
-
TQ
The Court, and Country Cook. 777
to that purpoe, after it has been crap'd, wah'd and well wip'd,
the red-hot Fire-hovel mut be lightly pas'd over the Back to
the end that the Larding-pin may have a freer Paffage: Then
it may be fried as the other Sole; it may alo be put into a Ba
king-pan with Bacon underneath, and be brought to a colour
upon the Spir, or in the Oven.
For Side-dihes, they may be made of Soles, with the above
mention'd Ragoo; garnihing them with Filets, Andouillets and
other Things, all brought hot to Table. -

Potage of Tortoies on Fih-days.


Having ct off the Heads and Legs of your Tortoies, the
Day before, teep them in Water, to take away the Blood, and
then let them be well boil'd in a little Pot of a proportionable
fize, in Water, with a little Salt and Parfly, freh Butter, a
Chibbol tuckwith Cloves, and a few fine Herbs. If you would
have the Broth of a more exquiite relih, add the Bones of
Carps or other Fih, the Fleh of which was taken to make
Farces. Then take out the Tortoies, and train the Broth,
which will ferve both for the Potage and for the Ragoo: The
Shell on the top of the Tortoies mut be taken away, as alo the
Skin, referving the Fleh, which mut not be too much boil'd :
But you must be fure to clear it from the Gall, and keep the Shell
to make a thin Paste or Batter for the frying of it, as if it were
marinated Meat in Pate ; this will ferve to be put in the mid
dle of the Potage. Having likewife taken ome of the Fleh of
the Tortoie, tew it in a Sauce-pan with a little Butter, Chibbol
and Parfly, and moiten the Ragoo with the fame Broth. Af
terwards turn in the Roes, Truffles, Muhrooms and other Gar
nitures, if you have any, with a little Cullis of Cray-fih, or
fome other fort of Fih, and let your Crusts be well foakd: Let
fome fried Fih-Filets be alo ready at hand, as being very pro
per to garnih the Potage : Moreover, it will be requifire to
provide a mall white Cullis of Pikes-fleh, to prinkle the Po
tage, that it may be marbled with the Ragoo; and alo, fome
Cray-fih Cullis. At lat, you may dres your Potage with the
Ragoo pour'd on the top, the Filets round about marbled with
both the Cullies, and the Shell that was fried, in the middle.

Po
222 The Court and Country CT

Potage of Tortoies, on Fleh-days.


For this Potage, the Tortoies must be order'd as before, to
get their Fleh, which is to be fried in Lard with fine Herbs;
hilst a Cullis is preparing, with a piece of Veal roasted ver
brown, which is to be pounded in a Mortar, with the Breast of
a Capn or Puller, five or fix Almonds, and a piece of Bread
crum oak'd in good Broth : Letall be boil'd in a Srew-panwell
feaon'd, and afterwards strain'd thro the Hair-fieve, with a
iece of green Lemmon. This Cullis will ferve to enrich the
otage as it lies a foaking: Then you may garnih the fides of
the ih, with Veal-weet-breads cut into pieces, Artichoke
bottoms, and larded Poupiets fried brown a-part; and the Middle
with the Shells fried till they come to a fine colour; fqueezing
in fome Lemmon-juice, when erv'd up to Table.
A Potage, with Crusts farced with Quavivers and Perches,
with a white Cullis. -

Let your Quavivers, or Perches beboil'd in Water with Salt,


and having taken away the Skin, let the Fleh be minc'd very . .
fmall: Then let a Cullis be made with fome of the fame Fleh,
and a douzen of Almonds; pounding thern with three or four
Yolks of Eggs, if the time will permir. Laftly, let the Hah
be dres'd with good Butter and fine Herbs, and make ue of
it to strew upon the foaked Crufts; adding fome Lemmon
juice, before it is brought toTable. ' , T orig.
! bns
rotage, with Crusts freed with sola.
The Hah must be made as before, after having fied the
Soles, with Lentils dres'd in the Cullis; or ele a green Cullis
may be prepar'd with Aparagus-tops. |

Potage, with Crusts farced with Pike.


. This Potage mut be order'd as the former, with a gren
8 S.
and Aparagus-tops, in their Seaon, or ele with a white
- -

Perch:
J
la

The Court and Country Cook. 223

* - Perch-potage, with a white culi.


After having well wah'd the Perches, let them be boil'd in
Water, with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, an Onion and Thyme, and
afterwards neatly pickt : But one of them mut be taken to
make a Cullis, with a few pounded Almonds and ome Yolks
of Eggs, to the Seaon: Let all be pounded together
in a Mortar, well feaon'd and train'd thro' the Hair-fieve.
Then ome Carp-hah mut be .upon the Crufts, with the
Cullis, and the whole Mes mut be garnih'd with fried Bread.
Frog-potage.
Let the Legs of your Frogs be cut off, and the Thigh-bones
broken, after the Fleh has been taken away; reerving the
thicket to be fried : Thee being marinated with Verjuice,
Pepper and Salt, and diptinto a thin Paste or Batter, must b
fried till they come to a fine colour, to make a Border round
about the Potage. The ret are to be dres'd in a Ragoo, with
Roes, Muhrooms and other Garnitures, all dres'd with a white
Sauc, Laftly, the Potage mut be garnih'd, after it has been
well foak'd, pouring a Cullis upon it, and queezing in the
Juice of a Lemmon.

Potage, with a Profitrolle-loaf. -

Having prepard a Carp-hah dres'd in Broth, with Butter,


fine Herbs and a piece of green Lemmon, let it be ftew'd and
feaon'd till it has acquird a good relih. Then cut ome Pike,
or Quavivers into Collops, which are to be marinated in Ver
juice, with Pepper, Salt and Onion; and, when flowerd, mut
be fried till they come to a fine colour; thee will ferve to gar
nih the Potage. Afterwards turn your Hah upon the foaked
Bread, fet the Profitrolle-loaf in the middle, and queez in ome
Lemmon-juice, as the Dih is ferving up to Table.

Tortoie-potage, with a Profitrolle-loaf.


This Potage may be garnih'd with Cray-fih, and fried Shells
in the Intervals. _Let a brown Cullis be made, as for Cray
fih, and let the Tortoies be cut into Fricandoes or Collops, as
- lt
224 The Court and Country Cook.
it were Chickens ; with a white Cullis, and a piece of green
Lemmon. As the Crufts are foaking, let fome Fih-hah be laid
upon them, and Roes fried brown, with fine Herbs. Afterwards
your Tortoies may be dres'd, with a Loaf in the middle, and
emmon-juice.

Potage la Royale.
Take Eels-fleh, with the like quantity of Muhrooms, which
are to be fried in natural Butter, chopt all together, and put
into a Pot, with good Fih-broth, feafoned with Salt and a s
Faggot of Herbs. In the mean time, the Crufts being foaked
with the fame Fih-broth, cover them with your minc'd Meat,
and garnih them with Carp-roes, Pike-livers, and farced Muh
rooms; adding fome Slices and Juice of Lemmon,with the Juice
of Muhrooms and Capers, when ferved up to Table.

Oister-potage.
It would be requifite to fry the Oifters in burnt Butter, and
to referve their Liquor, as it has been elewhere oberv'd: At
the fame time, you muft alo fry with your Oifters, fome Muh
rooms cut into pieces, and a little Flower, and afterwards let
all boil in trained Peae-foop, with Salt and a piece of green
Lemmon: Then the Bread being foak'd in good Fih-broth, and
the Oisters and Muhrooms dres'd, they may be garnih'd with
Capers and Lemmon-lices, and o ferv'd up, after having
pour'd the Oifter-liquor into the Potage, with the Juices of
Muhrooms and Lemmons.

Potage of farced Tenches, with brown Broth.


The Tenches mut be firt cleans'd from their Slime in hot
Water, and their Skins entirely taken away, as the fame thing
may be done with Soles: Then prepare a Farce with the Fleh,
alo Muhrooms,fine Herbs,Yolks of Eggs,Salt and Nutmeg, and
having tuff'd them with it, as if they were whole; let them
boilin trained Peae-foop, or in ome other Broth, with Butter.
In the mean while, let Muhrooms be fried in Butter, with
Flower,and tew din other Broth, or Liquor, eaon'd with Salt,
Cloves, and a Bunch of Herbs. This Broth will ferve to foak
the Cruts, upon which the Tenches are to be dres'd; garnih
-, --

The Court ana Country Cook. 225

ing the Dih with Muhrooms, Capers, Carp-roes; as alo with


Lemmon-juice and Slices of the fame, as it is ferving up to
Table. A

Farced Crabs, and other Fih of the like nature, may alo be
dres'd in the fame fort of Potage.

A P o r - P o u R R 1, or Hotch-potch.
This Way of drefing is proper for feveral forts of Meat, par
ticularly, Ducks, young Turkeys, Leverets, &c. They mut
first be larded with thick Slips of Bacon, and fried in Lard to
give them a colour: Afterwards, they are to be boil'd or tew'd
in Broth, with white Wine, a Faggot of Herbs, Pepper and
Salt : When they are half done, let fome Muhrooms be fried
in the fame Lard, with a little Flower, and let all be mingled
together, with Gravy, or an Artichoke cullis, Andouillets, Veal
fweet-breads, Oifters (if you hall think fit) and Cucumbers
marinated, according to the Seafon. This Hotch-potch, when
neatly dres'd with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice, mut be
ferv'd up hot to Table for a Side-dih. -

P o U P E T o N s.

In giving Directions for making the Godivoe of a Pcupeton in


the Article of Godivoe, under the Letter G, we have alo ex
plain'd, what is mot remarkable, with repet to all the ret;
articularly, for a Poupeton farced with young Pigeons and other
# of Fowl: So that it only remains here to hew the manner
of diverifying them, when green Peae are in eaon.

A Poupeton, with green Peae.


The Poupeton being made after the uual manner, let two or
three Handfuls of trained Peae be thrown into it, before it is
cover'd with its Farce, and let all be enclos'd with the Godivoe.
Then it mut be bakd, la Braife, that is to ay, between two
Fires, one on the top and the other underneath, and afterwards
put into a Dih. , Some Spoonfuls of Peafe may alo be added,
before it is brought hot to Table,

Q. 4
226 The Court and Country Cook.

A Poupeton for Fih-days.


Take the Fleh of Carps and Pike, and let a well fefon'd
Godivoe be made of it, with Bread-crum or Flower; all bein
well chopt together : To thee you may add an Egg or two, if
it be not in Lent; haping your Poupeton, as the and
laying ome Sole-Filets, or others in the middle, which are to
bedres'd with weet Butter and all forts of good Garnitures.
A fine Artichoke-bottom mut likewie be fet in the middle, af
ter the Ragoo and Fih-Filets, and the Poupeton is to be quite
fill'd up with the Ragoo-auce. Afterwards, let all be cover'd
with your Godivoe or Farce, and bak'd or tew'd between two . .
gentle Fires. When it is ready, it mut be turn'd into a Dih
upide downwards, and ferv'd up with Lemmon-juice.
P o U P I E 'r s.

To make Poupiets it will be requifite to provide fome Bards,


or thin Slices of Bacon that are fomewhat long, but not too
broad, according to the thicknes you would have the Poupiets
to be of, with as many Veal-takes; which, when well beaten,
mut be laid upon every Bard. . In the mean while, having pre
a good Farce eaon'd with a Clove of Garlick and other
ngredients, let as much of it as you hall think fit, be put u
the Stakes or Slices, and then let them be cloe roll'd up. Af
terwards they mut be pierc'd with a mall Iron-Spit, and roast
ed wrapt up in Paper. When they are almot ready, the Paper
is to be taken away, in order to bread them, and give them a
fine colour. Thee Poupiets may ferve either for a particular
Dih, or for Out-works, or only to garnih other Mees. They
are alo fometimes dres'd in a Ragoo, as Fricandoes, with a
iece of Lemmon, as they are tewing, and fome Juice of the
ame, as they are ferving up to Table.
Larded Poupiets. -

Larded Poupiets are likewie repard upon occafion, and fri


ed brown, with pieces of Morilles, and good Gravy,
or a little Cullis to enrich them ; fqueezing in ome Lemmon
juice, when ready to be brought to Table. -

- P u D
The Court and Country Cook. 227
P U D D I N G s.

There are two forts of Hogs-puddings, viz. white and black,


| and both are uually ferv'd up among the Side-dihes: The
former is mot delicious, and may be made thus.
To male white Puddings.
Having roated a young Turkey, and alo a Capon (if a
:
great quantity of Pudding be required) take the Breafts of thoe
Fowls, and let them be well mincd: Then cut fome Leaf-fat
taken out of a Hog's Belly, very mall, and put all into a Stew
pan, with a litle chopt Onjon, that was fried in it before, and
a few fine Herbs of all forts, except Parfly: Seaon thee Ingre
dients with the ordinary Spices, and pour in as much Milk, as
you hall judge needfull : Let them alo boil together, for a
while, and then having drawn back the Stew-pan, add two or
three Whites of Eggs whipt, taking care that the Farce be not
', too liquid, Afterwards, the Puddings may be made with the
Guts, and as they are filling, they mut be prickt a
ittle, to let out the Wind: They mut alo be calded in a little
Water and Milk, with fome Slices of Onion, and when taken
out, left to cool upon a clean Napkin. In order to ferve them
up, they mut be broil'd upon Paper, over a gentle Fire, left
they hould break; putting to them a little Lard or other Fat ;
and, when ready, they mut be brought hot to Table.
* To make black Puddings.
Let fome Hogs blood that is not coagulated be put into a
W
Stew-pan, with a little Milk, and a Spoouful of fat Broth, to
render it more delicious, and let fome Leaf-fat out of the Hog's
Belly be cut into mall pieces, and mingled with chopr Parly,
Chibbol, and all forts of fine Herbs, which are to be fried
n fome of the fame Fat: Then let them all be turn'd into the
fame Sauce-Pan, andeaon'd with beaten Spices. In the mean
time, a Potr Kettle is to be hang'd over the Fire, with boil
ing Water, and the Stew-pan containing the Blood mut be fer
in it, to be kept hot ; tirring it nevertheles, continually, to
hinderit from ticking to the bottom. As foon as you percieve
alltohave acquird a good Relih, Puddings may be " ;
|- , 2. G9
228 The Court and Country Cook.
of what thicknes, or length, you hall think fit, and fcalded in
Water; but as they are calding, let them be prickt with a Pin:
If nothing comes out but Fat, 'tis a Sign that they are ufficient
ly parboild; fo that they may be neatly taken out, and when
cold, they mut be broil'd upon a Grid-iron, as occaion re
quires, in order to be ferv'd up hot, as before.
Other forts of Puddings.
Puddings may be alo made of the Livers of Capons and
Calves: For the former, let a quarter of a Pound of Hogs
leaf-fat be chopt mall, with a Pound of the Livers, and as
much of the Fleh of Capons, and let all be well eaon'd with
fine Herbs, Chibbols, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, beaten Cloves,
Cinnamon, fix Yolks of raw Eggs, and two of Cream.
Then fill up the Guts of a Hog, Sheep, or Lamb, and boil your
Puddings in Milk, with Salt, green Lemmon and Bay-leaves:
They mut be broil'd in the fame manner as the former, and
ferv'd up with Orange-juice. For the other fort of Pudding,
ou are to mince a Calves-liver, and pound it in a Mortar, with
ogs-fat,to the quantity of one third part; which mut likewie
be cut into mall quare pieces: Let this Mixture be eaon'd, as
before, and tuff'd into Hogs or Calves-guts. Thee Puddings
mut be calded in white Wine, with Salt and a few Bay-leaves,
over a gentle Fire, and left to cool in their own Liquor, to be
broil'd and order'd as the others.

P U L L E T s.

we have already producd a Side dih of fat Pullets dresd


with Olives, which may alo be made in like manner, with
other forts of Fowls, and hall here ubjoyn ome other particu
lar Dihes of Pullets, no les remarkable and delicious.

Large fat Pullets drefd after the Englih Way.


A Farce is to be firt prepar'd, with Bacon, Calves-udder,
Veal-weet-breads, and a little Marrow; as alo, Truffles, Muh
rooms, Artichoke-bottoms, Capers, and a little Garlick; all
fcalded,minc'd and well eaon'd. The Pullets,being tuff'd in the
Body with this Farce, and well tied up, with a good Slice of Ba
con on their Breats, mut be roated, wrapt up in Paper:
- they
The Court and Country Cook. 229

they may be dres'd with a little Sauce, made of Truffles, Muh


rooms, Anchovies, a few Capers and Veal-gravy; all chopt
fmall, tew'd and well foak'd. A little Cullis mut alo be ad
ded, and the Juice of an Orange fqueez'd in, when the Dih is
ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
Fat Pullets farced upon the Bones, with Cream.
After having roated large fat Pullets, let the Fleh of their
Breafts be well minc'd, with boil'd Bacon, a piece of dres'd
Gammon, a few Muhrooms, Truffles, Chibbols, Parfly, and
the Crum of a Loaf teept in Cream, after it has been foak'd a
little at the Fire; to all thee, when chopt very mall,ome Yolks
of Eggs are alo to be added. Afterwards, having tuff'd your
Pullets upon the Bones with this Farce, fet them in order in a
Dih or Baking-pan,and bread them neatly on the top: Then let
fome whipt Whites of Eggs be put to them, and let them be

| brought to a colour in the Oven. If you have fome of this


Farce to pare, and if any Legs or Wings of Pullets, or Chickens
are at hand, they may be tuff'd with it, and thee will ferve to
garnih your Dih. A fmall Ragoo (if you pleae) may alo be
made for the Pullets, of Muhrooms, and Capons-livers dres'd
in Cream, to be put underneath. -

Fat Pallets drefd la Sainte Menehout.


Let your Pullets be trus'd for boiling, and flit in the hinder
art: Then pread them upon the Table,or Dreffer; breaktheir
, and take away thoe of the Legs: Then they mut be
ftew'd in a Sauce-pan, with a great deal of good Lard, a little
Parly, Chibbol, and other feafoning Ingredients. Afterwards,
leaving them in the fame Pan, let them be cover'd with fome
Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon, and fet between two Fires, vix.
one on the Lid, and the other underneath; taking care that they
be not too quick. Some Slices of Onions mut alo be put to
them; and, as foon as they are ready, they may be neatly bread
ed, put into an Oven for a while, to give them a colour, and
ferv'd hot, with a Ramolade-Sauce underneath ; if you hall
think fit. - - - *

Q-3 An0=
23o The Court and Country Cook.

Another Side-dih of fat Pullets in Filets. -


Having caus'd large fat Pullets to be roafted, let the Filets
and all the Fleh be neatly taken away: Then let thoe Filets be
clear'd from the Fat, and laid in the bottom of a Dih ; whilt
the following Sauce is preparing for them: Let ome Parfly be :
chopt, with a little Chibbol, Capers and Garlick; and let all,
when well eaon'd, be pur into a Stew-pan, with a little Oil
and Vinegar: They mut be well temper'd together, fqueezing
in the Juice of a Lemmon; but the Sauce not be fet upon
the Fire. . When it is ready, it may be pour'd into the Dih,
contains the Puller-Filets, which are to be ferv'd up cold to
Table. * - -

Afat Pullet accompanied with a delicious Farre.


Take a large fat Pullet or Capon, or ome other Fowl of the
like nature,as a Pheaant or Wood-sock: Slit italong the Back,
and cut out all the Bones that you can come at in the infide.
Then let a Farce be made of delicious Meats, viz. the Fleh
of young Pigeons, mall Chickens, Snipes, Mauviettes, &c. and
a little well eaon'd Ragoo incorporated with it. The Pullets
when stuff'd with this Farce,mut be neatly fow'd up again, and
leaurely stew'd between two gentle Fires, in a Pot that is well
ftopt, with thin Slices of Bacon, Beef-stakes, a piece of green
Lemmon, a Bunch of Herbs, and all forts of Spice, When it
is ready, it mut be dres'd upon the Back, and put into a Ra
oo of Muhrooms, Veal-weet-breads, Truffles and Artichoke
ttoms, all well eaon'd. The Dih may be fet out, with
marinated Pigeons, or ome other convenient Garnitures.
zarze fat Pullets drefd with Gammon-fauce, or otherwife.
When your Pullets are roated, let a Gammon-fauce be made
for them, with Capers and a thickening Liquor; adding ome
Lemmon-juice, before they are fet on the Table. At another
time, they may be dres'd in a Ragoo with Truffles, or la Sain
garaz, or with a Cray-fih Cullis, or ele they may be bakd, or |
ftew'd between two Fires, as many other Things. '
The Court and Coantry Cook. 23 1

Q.
- Q u A 1 L s.
/

Uails may be bak'd la Braife, that is to ay, between two


Fires, and dres'd in a Ragoo. Otherwife they may be
ferv'd up in a hot Pie, fuch as that of Partridges, decrib'd in
the firt Article of Pies under the Letter P. They may alo be
order'd feveral Ways in a Potage, and a Bisk of Quails has been
elewhere explain'd in the Article of Bisks: Let us now produce
fome other Methods of dreffing this fort of Fowls.

A Side-dih of Quails drefd la Braife and in a Ragoo.


For Quails bak'd or tew'd la Braife, or between two Fires,
'tis requiite only to follow the Directions pecified in the third
Article of Pigeons, and to prepare a Ragoo for them, of Lambs
fweet-breads dres'd in white Sauce, with Muhrooms, Truffles
and Cocks-combs. The Quails being put into this Ragoo, a
little before they are ferv'd up, the Yolk of an Egg, or two,
and fome Milk-cream, may be temper'd with it.
The other fort of Ragoo is made, by flitring the Quails into
halves, without eparating them, and frying them in Lard, ea
fon'd with a Faggot of Herbs, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, three or
four Muhrooms and a little Flower; adding fome Mutton-gra
vyand Lemmon-juice, at the Intant of ferving them uptoTable,

Quail-potages,
If you would have your Quails stuff'd, a Farce may be mae
for that purpoe, with Capons-breats and Beef-marrow; fea
; fon'd with a little Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and the Yolks of
raw Eggs. Let them boil in an Earthen Pot or otherwie, with
a Bunch of Herbs and good Broth, fuch as is decribd in the
firt Article of Broth : Then strain two boil'd Artichoke-bot
roms thro' the Hair-fieve, with fix Yolks of Eggs and fome of
the Quail-broth, and let all be tew'd upon the hot Embers.
When the Cruts are uficiently oakd, dres your Quails, and
pour the Cullis upon them; they may alo be farc'd with Truf
fes. The Dih mut be garnih'd with Artichoke-bottoms, Mut
ton-gravy and Muhroom-juice.
Q.4 Ano
232 The Court and Country Cook,
Another fort of Quail-potage is made with a brown Cullis,
without farcing, only tewing them in a proper Broth with a
piece of Veal, and preparing the Cullis, with a piece of a Beef
Filet pounded with Bread-chippings. This Potage is to be gar
nih'd with Muhrooms and Truffles, and ome Lemmon-juice
mut be fqueez'd in, when brought to Table. -

A Potage of Quails may likewie be ferv'd up with Roots


and la Reine,asit appears from the feventh and eighth Articles
of Potages and elewhere: Alo a Quail-potage in form of an
Oil, another fort with weet Bafil, as that of Pigeons; others
with Muhrooms and otherwie : So that due meaures may be
taken, upon occafion, from the like Species, which may be eaily
found by means of the General Table. -

Q U A v 1 v B R s.
Quavivers may be fried, and put into a Ragoo made of Me
rilles, Moufferons, commcn Muhrooms and Artichoke-bottoms,
and garnih'd with what you hall think fit. They may alo be
broil'd upon the Grid-iron, and dres'd with a Sauce of Capers
and Anchovies. . . . . .

As for in Filets, with Cucumbers and Moufferons,


let them be boil'd in a Court-bouillon, and cut as the Perches and
Soles that are fo dres'd, according to the Instrutions given in
the third Article of Soles. See alo that of Perches, for Quaviver
Filets, with white Sauce, which are prepar'd after the fame
manner, and may be otherwife ferv'd up, with Capers.
Quavivers are likewie putinto a Fricaffy of Chickens, or a
Hah may be made of them, with chopt Anchovies and whole
Capers, all well feaon'd, garnih'd with Crufts of fried Bread,
Table.
de with Lemmon-juice, as they are ferving up to
- - - -

R.
R A B B E r s.
RA bers may be put into a tanding Pie, in order to be ferv'd
up cold among the Intermees, as it has been already in
timated in the last Article of Pies; or a hot Pie may be made
of them for a Side-dih, in this manner. - - . . .

-
** *
-
*- - 4
The Court and Country Cook. 23 3
A Rabbet-pie to be ferved up hat.
* Let the Rabbets belarded, and put into a Pie made of beaten
Pate, eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves, pounded
Lard, a Bay-leaf or two, and a Shalot. After having wahd
the Pie over, let it be bak'd for the pace of two Hours, and let
fome Orange or Lemmon-juice be fqueez'd in, when brought
to Table. - - , 'r
,

Rabbets and young Rabbets in Caferole.


Cut your Rabbets into quarters, lard them with thick Slips
of Bacon ; and, after they have been fried, tew them in an
earthen Pan with Broth, a Glas' of white Wine, a Bunch
of Herbs, Pepper, Salt, fried Flower and Orange.

Rabbets drefd with white and brown Sauce.


After having cut the Rabbets into qnarters, flit their Heads,
and fried them in Lard, as before; let them be stew'd in an
earthen Pot, with Broth, white Wine, Pepper, Salt, Nutme
and green Lemmon. Let a little fried Flower be put to thoe
that are to be dres'd with brown Sauce; and for the others, let
white Sauce be made, with the Yolks of Eggs, as upon other
occafions, . . . ' - -

Rabbets in a Tourte, or Pan-pie, and otherwie.


Large fat Rabbets and young Rabbets may likewife be put
into a Tourte, or Pan-pie; cutting them into pieces, which are to
be fried in Lard, with a little Flower, fine Herbs, young Chib
bols, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and a little Broth. When they
are cold, let your Pie be made of them, with fine Pate ; ad
ding ome Morilles, Truffles and pounded Lard, and covering
all with a Lid of the fame Pate: Let it be bak'd an Hour and
half; and, when it is half done, pour in the Sauce in which
the Rabbets were dres'd, as alo, fome Orange-juice, as it is
erving up to Table. - - - - -
At another time, when the Rabbets are roasted, they may
be cut into halves, and dres'd with a good Gammon-fauce.
?bung
234 The Court and Country Cook.

Toung Rabbets drefd la Saingaraz.


The Rabbets being neatly larded and roated, fome beaten
Slices of Gammon are to be fried in Lard, with little Flower,
a Faggot of fine Herbs, and fome good Gravy that is not Salt:
A few Drops of Vinegar are alo to be added, and the Sauce
may be thicken'd with a little Bread-cullis. Then let the Rab
bets be cut into quarters, and dres'd in a Dih or Plate ; pour
ing the Sauce upon them, with Slices of Gammon, in order to
be erv'd up hot, after they have been well clear'd from the Far.
Large fat Pullets may be likewie dres'd, la Saingaraz; as
alo, Chickens and Pigeons, except that they mut not be cut
into quarters.
R A M a o u 1 N s.
To make Cheee-Ramequins; a Farce is to be prepar'd of the
fame fort as that before decrib'd for Cheee-cakes, only adding
a little pounded Parly; and, if you pleae, fome Yet to render
them lighter. Then let ome Bread-crum be cut into mall
fquare pieces, with the point of a Knife; and leta little of this
Farcebe put upon every one of thoe Slices: But it would be
requiite to dip your Knife into a whipr Egg, to hinder the
Farce from sticking to it; o as the Ramequins may be made
of a round or quare Figure : They are to be bak'd in a Pie
pan, with a little Butter underneath ; and care must be taken,
that they be not too much colour'd. Thee Ramequins will ferve
to garnih Peae in Cream, or anything ele that you hall think
fir, and may even be fet among the Out-works of Intermees.
A piece of refined Cheee may alo be taken, with a Lump
of Butter, as much Flower as you can get up between your
Fingers at twice, three Yolks of Eggs, a little Pepper and Lem
mon-juice. When the whole Mixture or Farce is well pound
ed together, let it be pread upon a Plate, and bak'd under the
Lid of a Pie-pan, with Fire on the top; taking care that ir do
not burn.
R y s s o L E s.
Riffoles are proper for the Intermees, and, to render them
more delicious, ought to be made with Capons-breasts. As for
-- - - --- the
--

TT Court and Country Cook. 235

the ret, they may be eaon'd and order'd almot after the
fame manner as the Bouillans, pecified under the Letter B;
but they must be well fried and brought to a fine colour.
They may alo be made on Days of Abtinence, of a deli
cious Fih-farce, and even of Moufferons and Spinage, for the
Entertainments with Roots. As for the Moufferons, they must
be dres'd before, with Butter, fine Herbs, Spice, the Juice of
a Lemmon, and a little fried Flower: And the Spinage being
boil'd, mut be chopt mall, and eaon'd with Salt, Sugar,
Cinnamon and Lemmon-peel pounded or raped. Thee Rif
foles mut be bak'd in an 8
and ferv'd up with Sugar and
fweet Water. -

R o A C H R s.

A Side-dih of marinated Roaches.


The Roaches, being firt marinated in Oil, with Wine, Lem
mon-juice, and the uual eaoning Ingredients, let them be
well breaded, and gently bak'd in an Oven, till they come to
a fine colour : Afterwards mut be neatly dres'd in a Dih,
and garnih'd with fried Bread and Parfly. .

Roaches drefd in a Ragoo, and feveral othen Ways.


Another Ragoo may be made of Roaches, briling them
upon the Grid-iron, after they have been fak'd in Butter ;
whilt the Livers are fried with a little Butter 3 in order to be
pounded, and strain'd thro' the Hair-fieve. Let this Cullis be
pour'd upon the Roaches, when eaon'd with white Pepper,
Salt, and Orange or Lemmon-juice; rubbing the Dih or Plate,
before it is dres'd, with a Shalot or Clove of Garlick.
Roaches may alo be farced, as well as many other forts of
Fih ; otherwie they may be dres'd in Cafferole, or put into a
Pie; for which lat, ee the fifteenth Article of Pies. 4

R o A 3 r - M R A r s.
Altho' there eems to be little or no difficulty, as to whar re.
lates to the Roat-meats; nevertheles it would be expedient to
give fome account of them; that is to fay,not to hew the Degree
f Heat, or theTime that is requiite for the roasting of every
parti:
|
236 The Court and Country Cook. |
particular Joint of Meat, or Fowl; becaue thoe Circumstances
may be ufficiently dicern'd by the Eye, and may be regulated :
according to the Thicknes, or Nature of the Meats: But only }
to explain the Manner of Dresting, or Preparing them before '
they are pitted, and the Sauces which are mot proper for
them. For example :
Large Quails and young Quails mut be drawn and eaten
barded, with Pepper; or they may be larded, and ferv'd up
with Orange.
Pheaants and Pheaant-powts ought to be well_pickt and :
drawn : They are uually larded with thin Slips of Bacon, and
eaten with Verjuice, Pepper and Salt, or with Orange.
Large fat Partridges and young Partridges are ferv'd up in
the fame manner, as well as Wood-hens.
Wood-cocks and Snipes mut not be drawn, but only larded
with very mall Slips of Bacon : As they are roating, a Sauce
is to be prepar'd for them, with Orange, white Pepper, Salt,
and a young Chibbol. - -

Plovers are dres'd and eaten, after the fame manner.


Turkeys and Turkey-powts mut be bafted, as they are
roating, with a little Vinegar, Salt, Chibbols, and white Pep
Per.
Ring-doves, or Wood-pigeons, and young Fowls of that fort,
may be ferv'd up with Verjuice and the entire Grapes, or
Orange, or ele in Roe-vinegar, with white Pepper and Salt.
Turtle-doves are uually orderd in the fame manner: The
mut be drawn and larded with thin Slips of Bacon, as the for
mer ; as well as Bifets, which are a kind of Stock-doves, or
Wood-pigeons.
Ducks, Teals, and other forts of Water-fowl, ought to be
drawn and pitted without larding. When they are half-roast
ed, they may be basted with Lard; and eaten all over bloody,
with white Pepper, Salt and Orange-juice, or a natural Pepper
and Vinegar-auce. As for Barn-door Ducks, they may be
larded with fome Rows of Bacon, and roated fomewhat lon
ger than the others.
Geee, both wild and tame, mut be drawn, but not larded;
if they are fat: They are to be bafted with Lard, and eaten
with Pepper and Vinegar, or with Salt and Orange.
Let green Geee be drawn and barded; whilt a Farce is
preparing for them, with the Livers, Bacon, chopt Herbs, young
Chibbols, Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg; to which may be added,
- Mut
The Court and Country Cook. 237
- Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice, when ready to be ferv'd up
to Table : Or elfe they may be eaten with Verjuice and the
entire Grapes, or with Vinegar, Pepper and Salt.
Thruhes mut be bated, and tewd with Bread and Salt, in
order to be eaten, with Verjuice, Pepper, and a little Orange
juice ; after having rubb'd the Dih, with a Shalot.
Larks are ferv'd up in the fame manner, except that a little
Sage may be put into the Sauce.
Fat Capons ought to be drawn and barded; putting into the
- Body, an Onion tuck with Cloves, with Salt and white Pep

per: When they are ready, take off the Bards, or Slices of Ba
con, bread them, and let them be eaten with Creffes calded in
Vinegar, with Salt; or ele with Orange and Salt, or with Oi
fters tew'd in the Dripping. As for the other apons, they
may be larded with mall Slips of Bacen, and ferv'd up after
: the fame manner as the others, as well as large fat Pullets.
Ortolans mut be drawn, and roated on a mall Spit, and ba-
fted with a little Lard: Then they may be cover'd or trew'd
with Bread and Salt, and eaten with Salt and Orange.
Mauviettes ought not to be drawn, but larded with thin Slips
of Bacon ; leaving the Feet. Then having made a Sauce of
the Dripping, with Verjuice and Grapes, white Pepper and Salt,
let them be eaten with Salt and Orange. -

Beccafigo's require only to be well pickt, after having cut


off their Heads and Feet: Then they are to be roafted on a
little Spit, and trew'd with grated Bread and Salt ; in order to
be eaten with Orange, or with Verjuice with the Grapes entire
and white Pepper.
Hares and Leveretsought to be imbru'd with their own Blocd,
and larded with thin Slips of Bacon : They are uually eaten
with Pepper and Vinegar, or with weet Sauce made of Sugar,
Cinnamon, Pepper, Wine and Vinegar.
Large Rabbets and young ones are eaten with Water, white
Pepper and Salt, or with Orange.
amb and Kid mut be parboil'd in Water, or broil'd a little
upon the Coals, and larded with thin Slips of Bacon. Then
they may be eaten, with green Sauce, or with Orange, white
Pepper and Salt, or with Roe-vinegar. ' .

A fucking Pig ought to be well calded in Water, taking out


the Entrails, and putring into the Belly fome Pepper, Salt, hib- '
bols and a Lump of ponded Lard: When it is almot roated,
letit befindg'd and bated with Water and Salt. It may be ea
Itu with white Pepper, Salt and Orange. A
25F T. G. and Country C
A young Wild Boar may be larded with thin Slips of Bacon,
without cutting off the Head or Feet, and when well roasted,
may be eaten with Pepper and Vinegar, or with Orange, Salt
and Pepper.
An old Wild Boar mut be dres'd after the fame manner, and
ferv'd up with Pepper and Vinegar, or Robert-Sauce. .

A Roe-buck must likewie be larded with mall Slips of Ba


con, and as it is roasting, a Sauce must be prepar'd for it, with
Onions fried in Lard, and afterwards train'd thro' the Hair
fieve, with Vinegar, a little Broth, white Pepper and Salt; or
it may be dres'd with weet Sauce.
A Joint of a Srag or Hind ought to be larded with thin Slips
of Bacon, and eaten with Pepper and Vinegar.
Fallow Deer and Fawns mut be larded in the fame manner,
as they are roafting, bafted with a Liquor made of Vinegar,
green Lemmon, a Bunch of Herbs, Pepper and Salt. They are
alo eaten with Pepper and Vinegar.
Other Sauces proper for the Roast-meats.
Sauce made of Duck-gravy.
* Wood-cock Sauce.
Sauce of Gravy of a Leg of Mutton, with a Shalot,
Sauce of Veal-gravy, with Orange.
Sauce of Veal-gravy, with a Shalot.
Sauce of chopt Truffles and fine Herbs.
Sauce of raw Gammon and Oifters.
Sauce of Onion and Veal-gravy.
Sauce of a Partridge-cullis and Capers.
Sauce of Anchovies and Shalots. _, )

Sauce of Oil and Mutard, after the Spanih Way.


Sauce of young Chibbols, fried brown.
Sauce of Verjuice with the entire Grapesand Veal-gravy.
Sauce of freh Moufferons chopt. -

Poor Man's Sauce, with Garlick.


Poor Man's Sauce, with Oil. -

Sauce of Gravy of a hort Rib of Beef, with Garlick.


Sauce of Fennel and green Gooeberries.
Sauce of green Oiters and minc'd Gammon.
Ring-dove Sauce, with Pomegranate.
Sauce with Capons-livers. Y

Sauce of green Corn.


Sauce of new Verjuice, with a Shalot, { Ma
TFT T Ta Country Cook. 239

Many other forts of Sauces may be found in their proper pla


; the means of the General Table of the Melfes, at the
|
:
ces,
end of this Volume.

R o B - B u c k s.

To dref a Roe-buck.
When it islarded with thin Slips of Bacon androasted, it may
be eaten with natural weet Sauce; or with Sweet-four Sauce;
or with a natural Pepper and Vinegar-auce: Or ele theSpleen
of the Roe-buck may be fried in Lard, with an Onion; after
wards pounded in a Mortar, and train'd thro' the Hair-fieve
with Mutton-gravy, the Juice ofa Lemmon and Muhrooms,and
white Pepper. -

Other Ways of dreing a Roe-buck.


Let the Fleh of your Roe-buck belarded with thick Slips of
Bacon, and fried for fome time in Lard. Then Stew it in a
Sauce-pan, with Beef-broth or Water, eaon'd, with Pepper,
Salt, Bay-leaves, Nutmeg, and a Faggot of Herbs ; adding alo
a Glas of white Wine, and a piece of green Lemmon. Let the
Sauce be thicken'd with fried Flower, and erv'd up with Lem
mon-juice and Capers. -

This fort of Meat, afterit has been larded with thick Slips of
Bacon, and dres'd as before, may be left to cool in its own
Broth, and brought to Table, upon a Napkin, with Slices of
Lemmon, and Creffes boil'din Vinegar and Salt.
R o U L A D E s.

Take part of a Fillet of Veal with Beef-fewer, and mince


them very mall as it were a Godivoe, adding two Eggs with
the Whites and ome Salt: Then having prepard a piece of a
Leg of Mutton, or of Veal, or a Veal-caul, trew it with Par
fly, and put even or eight Slices of Lemmon in the Intervals :
You muft alo provide a Calve's Tongue, or a Sheep's Tongue
boil'd to be cut into mall thin Slices, with little Bards of Bacon,
Let your Godivoe be over all, with Parfly, Pepper and Salt
on the top; and let all be roll'd up together and bound, in order
to be stew'd as it were in a good Court-bouillon, with one piece,
OT
24o The Court and Country Cook.
or feveral Slices of Bacon. Let the whole Mes be ferv'd up a
mong the Out-works or for a Side-dih, after having garnih'd
it, with whatoever you hall judge requiite. - -

See alo the Article of Beef stakes roll'd up, under the LetterB.
and that of Poupiets, under P.

S.
S A L M o N.

Several Ways of dreffing Salmon.


FR : Salmon may be put into a Ragoo, made brown, as it
were Fricandoes, with Veal-weet-breads, Truffles and Muh
rooms ; adding good Broth or Beef-gravy, as it is tewing, and
fome Lemmon-juice, before it is ferv'd up to Table. The fol
lowing Diretions for the Trout may alo be oberv'd ; or ele
your Salmon, larded with middle-fizd Slips of Bacon and well
may be roated by a gentle Fire, bafting it with white
Wine and Verjuice, and putting a Faggot of fine Herbs with a
piece of green Lemmon into the Sauce. You mut alo temper
with the Dripping, fome Oiters, boiled Muhrooms, Capers,
fried Flower and the Liver of the Salmon, adding ome white
Pepper and Lemmon-juice, when the Dih is ready to be ferv'd
up, among the Intermeffes.
A Tail-piece of Salmon in Cafferole.
See the Intrutions before given for the drefing of a Cod
fih-tail in the fecond Article of Cod-fifh , under the Letter C.
and having farc'd your Tail-piece of Salmon in the fame man
ner, let it be breaded, and bak'd in an Oven, with white Wine,
Salt, Chibbol, Thyme, a Bay-leafor two, and Lemmon-peel.
When it is ready, pour a Ragoo upon it, and garnih it with
what you pleae.

Salmon in a Ragoo.
Take a Joll or any other piece of Salmon, and having cut it
into Slices, let it be bak'd in a coverd Dih fet into the Oven,
with a little Wine, Verjuice, Pepper, Salt, Cloves, a Bunch of
fine Herbs, Nutmeg, Bay-leaves, green Lemmon and a #
The Car T Country Cook. 241
Fih-broth. In the mean time, having prepar'd a good Ragoo
of Oifters, Capers, fried Flower, Muhrooms, and the Liver of ,
the Salmon, turn all upon it, and let it be ferv'd up, with Lem
mon-juice. " \ - -

Salmon drefd with fweet Sauce.


Having cut your Salmon into Slices and flowerd them, let
them be fried in refined Butter: Then, foaking them a little
while in a weet Sauce made of red Wine, Sugar, Pepper, Salt, .
Cloves, Cinnamon, and green Lemmon, let them be ferv'd up,
with fuch Garniture as you hall think fit.
For the Salmon-fallet, ee Pag. 41. and for a Salmon-pie, the
Letter P. - -

S A L P 1 c o N.

The Salpicon is a Ragoo uually made for large Joints of


Beef, Veal, or Mutton, which are to be ferv'd up roated, for
the principal Side-dihes. To that purpoe, having provided
Cucumbers, boil'd Gammon, Capons-livers, the Filets of a fat
Pullet, Truffles, Muhrooms, and Artichoke-bottoms, let all be
cut into mall quare pieces: But the Cucumbers, being taken
a-part, mut be fried in Lard, and well clear'd from the Far,
throwing in a little Flower: Afterwards, having fried them again
a little while, they mut be put to the ret of the above-mention'd
Ingredients, with good Gravy; and all mut be boil'd or tew'd
together. If you have any Gammon-effence, put in one Spoonful
of it; and,tothicken the Sauce,prepare a good Cullis,tobeprink
led at lat with a little Vinegar: In the mean while, a Hole being
made in a hort Rib of Beef, or in the Legofa Quarter of Veal,all
that Meat mut be taken away,which will ferve for other Farces,
and the Ragoo even now defcrib'd,mut be ubtitutedin its room.
A Salpicon may alo be ferv'd up eparately for a Side dih.
S A N D L 1 N G s, fee D A B s.
S A U s A G E s.

To make Sauages, let fome Pork and Leaf-fat out of the


Hog's Belly be chopt mall, well feaon'd, and mixt with a
little Parly, other fine Herbs and a Shalot. If you would have
\ - R then
272 The Court and Country Cook.
them more delicious than ordinary; it will be requifite alo to
mince the Breats of Capons, or fat Pullets, with a little raw
Gammon and Anis, in the fame manner as for white Hogs
puddings. When the whole Mixture is well orderd and ea
fon'd', adding a little Gammon-effence, it may be bound with
the Yolk of an Egg. Afterwards, having provided Sheeps-guts
thatare well cleans'd, according to the thicknes that you would
have your Sauages to be of, they may be made of a convenient
length, and broil'd upon Paper, or fried ; in order to be ferv'd
up to Table.
The fame Compound or Farce may alo be wrapt up in a
Veal-caul and dres'd as Capons-livers in a Caul; for which fee
the Article of Livers under the Letter L.
Veal-faufages are made in the fame manner, after having
minc'd part of a Fillet of Veal, with half as much Bacon, ea
fon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nurmeg and fine Herbs chopt very
fmall. They may alo be broil'd upon the Grid-iron, with thick
Paper underneath, and ferv'd up with Mustard, as the for
mer, among the Side-dihes. -

Royal Saucions, or thick Sauages.


Having provided fome Fleh of Partridges and of a fat Pul
let or Capon, a little Gammon and other Bacon, and a piece of
a Leg of Veal, all raw, with Parly and Chibbols, let them be
well chopt with Muhrooms and Truffles, and eaon'd with Pep
per, Salt, beaten Spice, and a Clove of Garlick; adding alo
two whole Eggs, three or four Yolks and a little Milk-cream,
Then roll up this Farce into thick piees, according to the quan
tity that you have of it, and to the end that it may be dres'd,
without breaking, let it be wrapt up in very thin Slices cut out
of a Fillet of Veal,and beaten flat upon the Dreffer,for that pur
poe; foas the Sauages maybe made at least as thick as a Man's
Arm, and of a convenient length. When they are thus order'd,
they must be put into an oval Stew-pan, with a great many Bards
or thin Slices of Bacon at the bottom, and topt up cloe; co
vering them with Beef-stakes, and other Bacon-Bards. After
wards, the Pan muft be fet between two Fires, taking care that
they be not too quick, and the Sauages mut bebak'd or tew'd
in this manner about eight or ten Hours. As foon as they are
ready, let them be remov'd from the Fire, and left to cool in
the fame Pan : Then they mut be carefully taken out fo as
IlOINC
The Court and Country Cook. 243
none be broken, and all the Meat round about mut be taken
away, with the Far: At lat you may cut the Sauages into
: Slices with a harp Knife, and fet them in good order in a Dih
z or Plate, to be ferv'd up cold to Table. If there be occafionto
make a Galantine at the fame time, with the Royal Saufags, it
s may be dres'd in the fame Stew-pan. -

S E A - D R A G o N s, fee QLU A v 1 v B R s.
S H A D s.

Broiled Shads.

When they are well cal'd and cut, rub them with Butter and
Salt, or elfe caue them to take Salt in a Baking-pan, with Oil:
Then they mut be broil'd upon the Grid-iron, over a gentle
Fire, and brought to a fine colour. They may be ferv'd up, with
Sorrel and Cream; adding alo fome Parfly, Chervil, Chibbol,
Pepper,Salt,Nutmeg and weet Butter. They may alo be dres'd
in a Ragoo of Muhrooms, or in a brown Sauce, with Capers.
Shads in a Court-bouillon.

After having cal'd and cut your Shads, let themboil in white
Wine, with Vinegar, Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Bay-leaves, Oni
ons and green Lemmon, and let them be ferv'd up to Table
upon a Napkin.
S 1 M N E L s.

, Iced Simnels.

|
|
},
Iced Simnels, may ferve either for Intermees, or to garnih
other Dihes, and are prepard after the following manner. Ha
ving provided Simnels made of Water, according to the fize of
, ! your Dih, cut them into halves, as it were an Orange, leaving
the Cruft on the top and underneath; and foak them in Milk,
with Sugar, proportionably to the quantity of Simnels. Then
let them be cover'd and laid under hot Embers, to be kept
warm for the pace of about four or five Hours; but they mut
not be boil'd, left they turn to Pap. Afterwards, having taken
them out, let them be well drain'd and fried in frehluar As
/ R 2 / QQIl
244 The Court and Country Cook.
foon as they are colour'd, let them be trew'd with fine Sugar
and iced over: At lat, after they have been turn'd and iced on
the other Side, they may be brought hot to Table.
S M E L 'r s.

We hall not here infist on the manner of Dreffing Smelt-po


tages, with white and brown Broth, or of Filets of the fame
Fih, in regard that it is only rquifite to oberve the Direti
ons already laid down for other forts of Fih. But it may not
be improper to give fome account of the Side-dihes that are
uually made of Smelts.
Several Ways of dreffing Smelts.
Smelts may be fried and ferv'd up in a Sauce made of dif
foly'd Anchovies, burnt Butter, Orange-juice and white Pepper.
At another time, They may be ftew'd in a Sauce-pan, with
Butter, a little white Wine, Nutmeg, fried Flower and a piece
of green Lemmon ; adding fome apers and Lemmon-juice,
when ferv'd up toTable.
Smelts may be alo boil'd in a Court-bouillon, with white
Wine, green Lemmon, Pepper, Salt and a Bay-leaf or two, and
brought to Table, upon a Napkin, with Parfly and Slices of
Lemmon, to be eaten with white Pepper and Vinegar ; or ele
they may be dres'd with the Ramolade-fauce decribed Pag. 41.
*

S N I P E s.

Snipes may be ferv'd up in a Ragoo, as well as roated; to


which purpoe, they mut be flit into halves, without taking a
way any of their Entrails: Then let them be fried in Lard,
and eaon'd with white Pepper, Salt, a Chibbol, and a little
Juice of Muhrooms and Lemmon. The Dih maybe garnih'd,
with Slices of Lemmon.

S o L E s.

Soles drefd after the Spanih Way.


Let the Soles be fried, and afterwards cut into Filets ; whilst
a Sauce is preparing for them, with good Champagne-wine, two
- - Cloves
*'
The Court and Country Cook. 245
Cloves of Garlick, Pepper, Salt, Thyme anda Bay-leaf. Then
foak them by degrees in this Sauce, and garnih them, with
what you hall judge mot requiite.

A Side-dih offried Soles.


Open the Back of your Soles, on both fides, and take away
the Bone, till the white Fleh appears. When they are fried,
let them be garnih'd with the of other Soles, and let a
white Saucebe made with an Anchovie and Capers, or Robert
Sauce; or ele a Ragoo of Muhrooms with Pike-livers, Arti
choke-bottoms chopp'd very mall and Carp-roes, queezing
infome Lemmon-juice, before the Dih is fet on the Table.
Sole-Filets with Cucumbers.

Having cut fried Soles into Filets, let them be mingled with
Cucumbers dres'd in the following manner: Let marinated
Cucumbers cut into Slices, be fried and foak'd with Gravy or
Broth ; in which they mut be afterwards tewd and well fea
fon'd, taking care that they do not tick. The Filets being
put to them, may be erv'd up a little after, and garnih'd with
what you pleae.
Soles farced with fine Herbs, and drefd otherwife.
Let your Soles cool, after they have been fried, and let a
Farce be made of fine Herbs, viz. Parly, Chibbol, Thyme,Sa
voury, and weet Bafil, all chopt together, with Pepper, Salt,
Cloves and Nutmeg: Then dres all thee with a good Lump
of Butter, and farce the Soles, taking out the Bones of every
one, at the top of th Back: Afterwards, foak them in melted
Butter, and having breaded them, let them be broil'd upon the
Grid-iron and brought to a fine colour, with the red-bot Fire
fhovel. - They may be ferv'd up, with Lemmons cut into halves.
Other Soles are farced with Bread-crum, Anchovies, Parly,
Chibbols and weet Butter, all well chopp'd, kneaded and fea
fon'd: When they are ths tuff'd, let them be teept in Oil,
breaded and dres'd as Pigs-pettitoes, la Sainte Menchout.
little brown Sauce must prepar'd for them, and ome Lem
mon-juice added, as they are ferving up to Table,
R3 . (Other
*
246 The Court and Coantry Cook.
Other Ways of farcing Soles for Potage may be feen in the
65th Article of Potages, under the Letter P. and as many Side
dihes may be made of them ; enriching them with Muhrooms,
Oiters, Cray-fih and Capers,adding Lemmon-juice, when ferv'd
up to Table. - - -

In any feafon out of Lent, three or four Eggs may be mingled


with the Farce, which is to be made of the Fleh of boned
Soles, when they are half-fried, with fine Herbs and Bread
crum oak'd in Milk. Having tuff'd the Bones of your Soles
with this Farce, bake them in an Oven, till they come to a
fine colour, and fet out the Dih with Lemmon, or ome other
proper Garniture.
Sol-Filets, with a Lentil-culis.
After the Soles have been fried and cut into Filets, they mut
be put into a Ragoo of Lentils, uch as is produc'd in the
fifth Article of Potages, and gently boil'd a little while over the
Fire. When the Filets are ready to be ferv'd up, let rhem be
dres'd in the Ragoo, or Cullis, and garnih'd with what you
pleae, for a Side-dih. -

Quavivers, Dabs and Perches may alo be dres'd in the fame


manner, but the latter must be handled more gently.
Other Ways of dreffing Soles.
Sole-Filets are likewife ferv'd up in a Cullis of Capers, others
with Truffles, and others with Robert-Sauce, with weet Bafil,
or with Cray-fih: A Pain, or farced Loaf and Gatoes, may
alo be made of Soles, or they may be dres'd in a Court-bouil
lon, or in a Marinade, as it has been oberv'd in the lat Ar
ricle of Marinades. As for thoe that are fried, they may be
eaten with Salt and Orange-juice. /*

S o U s e E s.

To make an Intermes of Soufce, let Hogs-ears and Feet be


boil'd after the uual manner, and left to cool in their own Li-
quor: Then let them be cut into very mall thin Slices, and let
all the Bones be taken away ; whilt fome of the best fort of
Vinegar is put into a Stew-pan, with Sugar, proportionably to
the quantity of Meat: Let the Vinegar and Sugar beboil'd, with
-- a
--

The Court and E Cook. 247 .

a Stick of Cinnamon, three or four Cloves, a little Pepper and


Salt, and two or rrree Slices of Lemmon : Let all be train'd
thro the Hair-fieve, and when the Meat is cut into Menur
droits, let all boil together, till the Sauce becomes thick, as if
it were for Menus-droits with Mutard. Afterwards, having
remov'd the Stew-pan from the Fire, and having provided cer
tain little quare Boxes, of what fize you hall think fit, all the
Fat being alo taken off with a Spoon, let the whole Mes be
turn'd into them, with mall Lardoons, or Slices of Bacon, of
the ame length as the Boxes, When they are fill'd, let them
not be coverd, till all be well coagulared. Afterwards, cover
them with Paper, and the Lids of the fame Boxes. This Com-
pound, or Jelly, may be f: during four or five Months, but
the newer it is the better. t is uually ferv'd up in thin Slices,
and laid in good order, on a Dih or Plate, with a clean Napkin
underneath. -

S T A G.
A Joint of Stag may be dres'd everal Ways; that is to
fay, it may be larded with thick Slips of Bacon, and eaon'd
with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and beaten Cloves: Otherwie,
having larded it with mall Slips of Bacon, let it be teept in
white Wine and Verjuice, with Salt, a Faggot of Herbs, a
piece of green Lemmon, and three or four Bay-leaves, and roast
ed at a gentle Fire ; bating it with its Marinade, or Pickle.
When it is ready, let it be dres'd in the Dripping, with fried
Flower to thicken the Sace; adding Capers, Vinegar, or Lem
mon-juice, and white Pepper, when erv'd up to Table.
Another Wy of dreing Stags-fleh,
Let the Loin or Shoulder of a Stag be larded with very thin
Slips of Bacon, and cover'd with Paper, As it is roating, let
a Sauce be prepar'd for it, with Vinegar, Pepper, Sadr, Nut-
meg, fried Flower, Slices of Lemmon and Shalots.
Another Way.
After your Joint of Stag has been well roated, it may be
eaten with a weet Sauce, made in this manner: Take a Glas
of Vinegar, with Sugar, a little Salt, three or four whole
~" -- R 4 Clove
/.
248 The Court and Country Cook.
Cloves, Cinnamon and a little Lemmon; and, when thefe In
redients are boil'd together, put in a little fried Flower, white
epper and Orange-juice.
Stag in a Ragoo.
Having larded a piece of Stags-steh with thick Slips of Ba
con, with Pepper and Salt, let it be fried in Lard:
Then let it boil for the pace of three or four Hours in an
earthen Pan, with Broth or Water, and two Glaffes of white
Wine, eaon'd with Salt, Nutmeg, a Bunch of Herbs, three
or four Bay-leaves, and a piece of green Lemmon. When it is
ready, let the Sauce be thicken'd with fried Flower, and add
Capers and Lemmon-juice as it is ferving up to Table.
are alfo made of Stags-fleh, which may be found in
the Article of Pasties, under the Letter P.

S r o c k - F i s H, fee C o D - F 1 s H.
S r u R G E o N.

A Side-dih of Sturgeon for Fleh-days.


Sturgeon for Fleh-days may be dres'd after different Man
ners; that is to ay, either in form of larded Fricandoes or
Collops; or in thick Slices, la Sainte Menehout. For the latter,
let the Slices of Sturgeon be gently ftew'd in Milk and white
Wine, well eaon'd, with a Bay-leaf and a little melted Lard:
Then let them be breaded, and broil'd upon a Grid-iron; pour
ing a Sauce underneath, in the fame manner, as for Loins of
Mutton, in order to be ferv'd up hot to Table.
For Collops of the ame Sturgeon, after they have been cut
and larded, they mut be flowerd a little, and brought to a
colour with Lard: Then they are to be boil'd in a Sauce-pan,
with good Gravy, fine Herbs, Slices of Lemmon, Truffles, Muh
rooms, Veal-weet-breads, and a well-eaon'd Cullis. After
wards, the Fat being thoroughly drain'd from them, they ma
be prinkled with a little Verjuice, and ferv'd up hot, as w
as the other fort, among the Side-dihes and Out-works.

Ano
The Court and Country Cook. 249
N

Another Way of dreffing Sturgeon.


Sturgeon may alo be dres'd in Haricot, with Turneps; to
which purpoe, it mut be boil'd in Water, with Pepper, Salt,
Thyme, Onions and Cloves. If you have any Broth ar hand,
fome of it may be pour'd in, and then your Sturgeon mut be
fried brown in Lard: Afterwards, it mut be clear'd from the
Fat, and put into a prepared Cullis, with the Turneps, and a
little Gammon cut into Slices, or chopt mall. It may be ferv'd
up, with Lemmon-juice, and fet out with Marinade, or ome
other Garniture. -

Sturgeon for Fih-days.


Let your Sturgeon be boil'd in a good Court-bouillon, and
dres'd in a well-eaon'd Ragoo of Muhrooms, &c.
A Haricot may alo be made of Sturgeon, with Turneps, as
on Fleh-days, cutting it into pieces of the length of your Fin
'ger, in order to be boil'd in Water and Salt, and afterwards
fried brown. Then the Fat being drain'd off, it mut be put
into a Cullis of the fame, and mingled with the Turneps, after
they have been calded and well eaon'd,
T.
T A R r s.

Tarts made of Cherries and other forts of Fruit.


Ake preerv'd Cherries, and let a piece of well-made Paste,
A half puff'd be roll'd out very thin for an Under-cruft, to
be i f over the bottom of the Pie-pan: Then lay your
Cherries in order, and roll out fome Slips of Pate, which can
not be made too mall. With thee,fineOrnaments may be made
for your Tart, in form of a Star, a Basker, a Royal Banner,
and feveral others, at pleaure: Thus, having hap'd all with
the Point of a Knife, the Tart mut be bak'd, and afterwards
ic'd with fine Sugar, paffing the red-hot Fire-hovel over it. It
may be garnih'd with Feuillantins, or mall Fleurons of all forts
of Fruit. Tarts may alo be made of other Fruits, and even
of Cream, after the fame manner : When Apricocks, Ver
* . juice,
3.,
... *
25o
*
The Court and Country Cook.
---- -

juice, &c., are in eaon, they are natural; and at other times,
Marmelade may be us'd. . However, the Tarts may be always
render'd more delicious, by making the Cruft, with Almond
paste, or crackling Crust, fuch as is decrib'd in the firt Ar
ticle of Pates,
A Peach-tart. *

Let ripe Peaches be ston'd, well pounded in a Mortar, and


left in Heaps: In the meanwhile, having put fome Sugar, with
candy'd Lemmon-peel cut fmall, into a Dih, let a fine Pate be
- de fomewhat stiff, with a little Butter, Flower, Salt, Water,
d the Yolk of an Egg. Then roll out a round Pyour
thin, for the Bottom-crust, according to the fize
piece, Dih,
very
d make a little Border of the fame Paste, for the Side-cruft,
utwo Inches high: Afterwards, the Peaches being put into
it in good order, the Pie may be fer into the Oven, and
o a fine colour, with the red-hot Fire-hoyel, after having
frew'd it with Sugar. This is commonly call'd a broiled Tart
by the French, and ought to be ferv'd up hot to Table,
Tarts of the like nature, may be prepar'd with Apples and
other forts of Fruit; and, if you'll give your elf the trouble,
they may be made of Paste proper for crackling Cruft, neatly
cut, dried in an Oven, and afterwards iced over with the Yolk
of an Egg, fine Sugar and a little preerv'd Lemmon-peel, well
temperd together. Haying thus order'd your Paste for the Lid,
caung it to be ic'd in the Oven, tillit become very white; it
te laid upon the Tart that is dres'd in the Dih, a little
i fore it is ferv'd up, and may be garnih'd with Meringues.
A free-four Tart,
Take a Glas of Verjuice, or Lemmon-juice, with a quarter
of a Found of Sugar, and when half is boil'd away, add ome
Cream, with fix Yolks of Eggs, a little Butter, Orange-flowers,
candy'd Lemmon-peel grated, and beaten Cinnamon : Let all
be pt into a Tart made offine Paste, and bakd without a Lid,
- Other forts of Tarts,
Akind of Marmelade or Cream,may bemade of Apples,Beet,
Melons, and other forts of Fruit; boiling them in white W

;
-*.
The Court and Country Cook. 251
and afterwards pounding them with Sugar,Cinnamon, Orange
flowers and Lemmon-peel: Then they must be train'd thro'
the Hair-fieve, and put into a Tart made of very thin Cruft,
with a little Butter, in order to be ferv'd up with musked Sugar
and Orange-flowers.
Tarts may alo be made of all the different forts of artificial
Creams pecify'd under that Article.
T E N c H R s.

Tenches may be cut into pieces, and a white or brown Fri


caffy may be made of them, with Moufferons or common Muh
rooms, Truffles, Artichoke-bottoms and fine Herbs ; adding a
thickening Liquor, as for Chickens, and an Anchovie chopt ve
ry mall, as alo fme Lemmon-juice, before it is ferv'd up to
Table, fet out with Marinade,
A Hah may be alo made of Tenches, garnih'd with the
Heads marinated and fried: Or elfe they may be dres'd in
Cafferole, frying them, in burnt Butter, after they have been
cut, and stewing them in white Wine, with the fame Butter,
Verjuice, a Faggot of Herbs, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, a Bay
leafor two, and a little Flower. When they are ready, let Oi
fters be put into the Sauce, with Capers, ome Juice of Muh
rooms and Lemmon, and let all be garnih'd with fried Bread.
Moreover, Tenches may be farc'd, as Carps, or dres'd in a
Ragoo, cutting them into pieces, to be fried in refined Butter,
in which an Anchovie is to be afterwards diolv'd; adding
Orange-juice, Pepper, Salr, Nutmeg and Capers: Then the
Dih may be ferv'd up with fried Parfly and Slices of Lemmon,
As for thoe Tenches that are fet a-parr for frying, they must
be flit on the Back, and trew'd with Salt and Flower. When
they are ufficiently fried, let them be ferv'd up to Table with
Orange-juice. -

T B R R I N E.

A Terrine is a very confiderable Side-dih, and may be thus


par'd: Take fix Quails, four young Pigeons, two Chickens,
and a Breat of Mutton (ut into pieces; and let all be bak'd or
stew'd in an earthen Pan, call'd Terrine in French, between
two gentle Fires, with Bacon-Bards at the bottom to keep them
from burning, or young streaked Bacon ut into pieces: Then
- | let
252 The Court and Country Cook.
let the Fat be drain'd ost, and fom good Veal-gravy put in its
lace, with boil'd Lettice, a little green Peae-foop, and green
or Aparagus-tops: Let all be tew'd again together for
fome time, and thoroughly clear'd from the Fat, before they are
ferv'd up to Table.
N. B. Somewhat has been already deliver'd on this Subjei,
in the fecond Article of Mirotons, under the Letter M.
T H R u s H B s.

Amongst other Dihes, Thruhes may be put into a Pie, to


be ferv'd up hot, or into a Ragoo ; frying them, for the latter,
in Lard, with a little Flower, a Faggot of fine Herbs, Pepper,
Salt, Nutmeg, a little white Wine and Capers;. fqueezing in
fome Lemmon-juice, as they are erving up to Table.
For Potage made of Thruhes, let them likewife be fried in
Lard, after they have been drawn, and then boil'd with brown
Broth proper for that purpoe, as it has been already hinted, in
the firt Article of Broth, under the Letter B. The Livers be
ing alo fried in the fame Lard, must be afterwards pounded,
and ftrain'd thro' the Hair-fieve, with the fame Broth, in or
der to be put upon the Thruhes, or into the Potage ; which are
to be dres'd and garnih'd with Muhrooms. -

T o N G U E s.

Having lain'd divers Services of Neats-tongues,


under the Letter N. let us now give ome Account of the other
forts.

*4 Calves-tongues.
To prepare farced Calves-tongues,
Let a Hole be made in the Tongues at the Root, with a little
Knife; taking care that they be not cut in any part : Then
rhruft in your Finger quite thro', as if it were a Gut ; fo as a
Ragoo may be put into it, made of Veal-weer-breads, Muh
rooms, Truffles, Parfly and Chibbol; all well eaon'd, and fried
with a little Lard and Flower, that is not made brown. The
Tongues, being farced with this Ragoo, mut be ried up very
cloe at the Hole, and thrown into hot Water, to the end that
- -
the
The Court anTountry Cook. 253

the firt Skin may be peel'd off. Afterwards, they mut be


broil'd upon the Coals, or tew'd between two Fires, and when
the Far is thoroughly drain'd from them, they may be drefs'd
in a Dih, with a good Ragoo, garnih'd with Fricandoes, that
are well larded but not farc'd.

Another Way of dreffing Calves-tongues.


Tvvo other Side-dihes may be made of Calves-tongues; that
is to ay, they may be dres'd in the fame manner as the Neats
tongues, pecified in the third and fourth Articles ; or ele they
may be roated after having been half done, and ferv'd up with
fweer Sauce.

Hogs-tongues.
To dre dried Hogs-tongues.
Take what quantity yoh pleae of Hog's-tongues, and cald
them, only to get off the firt Skin ; but the Water mut not
be too hot: Then wipe them with a Cloath, and cut off a
little of the thick End or Root. To falt your Tongues, take
green Juniper-berries, and dry them in an Oven, with two
Bay-leaves, a little Coriander, Thyme, weet Bafil, and all
forts of fine Herbs, except Roemary, Sage, Parfly and Chib
bol: All thee Herbs being well dried, mut be pounded in a
Mortar, and train'd thro' a Sieve. Afterwards, having provi
ded ome pounded Salt and Salt-petre, mingle them together
with the ret, and let your Tongues be put into a Pail or Por,
laying them in ordr, one by one, as they are eparately falted;
every Row of them being eaon'd with all thee Ingredients.
They mut be pres'd cloe together; and, when they are all
falted, let a Slate be laid over them, and a great Stone on the
top, leaving them thus cloe topt for fix or even Days. Then
take them out, drain them a little; and, having cut ome Hogs
skirts, s to the length of the Tongues, let every one
be put into its Cae, made of thoe Skirts, tying up both ends.
When your Tongues are thus orderd, let them be faten'd at
the mall end or tip, to a Pole laid a-cros the Chimny, at a
convenient ditance, fo as they may not touch one another, and
that they may be well moakd, for the pace of fifteen or twen
ty Days, till they become dry. Thus they may be Prev':
254 The Court and Country Cook.
if well orderd, throughout the whole Year; but in their best
condition, they mut be eaten at the end of fix Months : To
that purpoe, they may be boil'd in Water, with a little red
Wine, a few Slices of Chibboland Cloves. When they are ready,
they may be cut into Slices or left entire, at pleaure, and ferv'd
up cold among the Intermeffes.
/ Sheeps-tongues. A

Several Ways of dreffing Sheeps-tongues.


Sheeps-tongues may be erv'd up with weet Sauce, in which,
after they have been flowerd and fried till they come to a fine
colour, they may be foakd by degrees, with Truffles and Mouf :
ferons.
Sheeps-tongues may alo be broil'd upon the Grid-iron, with
Salt and Bread-crum, in order to be tew'd in a Sauce, made of
Verjuice, Broth, Muhrooms, Pepper, Salt, fried Flower, Nut
meg and green Lemmon ; or elfe a Ramolade-Sauce may be pre
par'd for them, according to the Diretions laid down, Pag. 41.
Dried Sheeps-tongues may be order'd after the fame manner
as dried Calves-tongues above pecified.
T o R r o 1 s E s.

Tortoies may be put into a Fricaffy of Chickens; and to that


| having cut off their Heads, Feet and Tails, let them
oil in a Pot, with Pepper, Salt, Onion, Cloves, Thyme and
Bay-leaves. Afterwards, having cut them into pieces, taking
care of the Gall, tos them up in a Stew-pan, with fine Herbs,
Chibbols, Pepper, Salt, Artichoke-bottoms, Morilles, Moufferons,
common Muhrooms and Truffles. If you would have them
brown, let them be foak'd with Onion-juice, or elfe with good
Fih-broth and a little fried Flower. To dres Tortoies in a
white Fricaffy, the Sauce mut be thicken'd, with Yolks of
Eggs, adding ome Verjuice and Lemmon-juice when ferv'd
up to Table. The Dih may be garnih'd with Roes, Lem
mon-flices and Oifters, either fried or raw, according to the
nature of the Fricaffy. *

A Poupeton may alo be made of Tortoies, or ele they may


be teept for ome time, in Vinegar, Pepper, Salt and Chibbols:
Afterwards they mut be flowerd and fry'd, in order to be ferv'd
up with fry'd Parfly, Oranges and white Pepper. TosTS,
The Court and Country Cook. 255 -

T o s r s.

Tofts may be ferv'd up both on Fleh-days and thoe of Ab


ftinence, and are very frequently us'd. For Fleh-days, boil'd
Veal-kidneys ;very mall, with Chervil, Salt, Sugar, Cin
namon, and the Yolk of an Egg, may be laid upon the Tots
of Bread, and trew'd with other Bread, or elfe neatly ic'd over.
For Wood-cock Tofts, let the Fleh and Entrails of the Wood
cocks be likewie cut mall, except the Ghizzard, and feaon'd
with white Pepper, Salt and melted Lard. . All being well
mingled together, the Tofts may be made, and bak'd in a Pie
an over a gentle Fire. They ought to be erv'd up without
ugar, only with Mutton-gravy and Orange-juice, or with a
Shalot.
Tofts of the like nature may alo be made, with Capons
: livers fried in pounded Lard, three or four Muhrooms, fine
Herbs and the uual eaoning Ingredients.
For Fih-days, the Tofts are generally prepar'd with Butter,
Oil of Olives or Hypocras; which manner of drefing is o eafie
: and fo well known, that it does not deerve to be any longer
infifted upon.
T o u R T E s, or P A N - P 1 E s.
There are two forts of Tourtes or Pies made in a Tourtiere, or
: Baking-pan, as well as of tanding Pies both for Fleh-days and
- thoe of Abtinence ; that is to ay, one fort for Side-dihes and
: the other for Intermees. Some of the firt Service have been
already decrib'd, particularly Tourtes or Pan-pies of Chickens
and Pigeons in their repective Articles: And as for the Inter
meffes, we have alo producd Almond-pan-pies, Tarts of Cream,
and of Fruit- Marmelades, and even fome Fih-pan-pies; let
us now proceed to explain the mot confiderable of thoe that
TEII121f1.

* A Quail-Tourte or Pan-pie.
After having well cleans'd and trus'd your Quails, let them
be put into a Pan-pie made of beaten Pate, as the former, fea
fon'd with Pepper, Salr, Nutmeg and a Bunch of Herbs.
ThisPie mut alo be fill'd with Veal-weet-breads, Muhrooms, .
: - Truffles
256 The Court and Country Cook.
Truffles cut into pieces, pounded or melted Lard underneath |
|
the Quails and Beef-ewet: Then it may be cover'd with a
Lid, and bak'd during two Hours. Let ome Lemmon-juice be .
fqueez'din, as it is ferving up hot to Table for a Side-difh.
A Tourte or Pan-pie, after the Spanih Way for a Side-diff.
Take Quails, Pigeons, Mauviettes, or Ortolans; that is to ay,
any one of thee forts, provided they be all mall and tender
Fowls : For example, if they are Pigeons, after they have been
well trufs'd, a Farce mut be made of a little Marrow, Muh-
rooms, Truffles,a little piece of parboil'd Bacon, all well eaon'd
with Spice and fine Herbs oPall forts. Let your Pigeons be
only flit on the Back to let in this Farce, and if they are fome
what tough, they may be calded a little before they are tuff'd. 1
In the mean time,let fome Veal-weet-breads,Muhrooms,Cocks-
combs and Artichoke-bottoms cut into Quarters be well fea-
fon'd and tew'd a-part ; whilt the Pate is making, with Wa
ter, Flower, the Yolk of an Egg, a little Salt and Butter, but
it mut not be too tiff: Having fet it by a little, let it be bea-
ten with the Rolling-pin, and divided into eight pieces, accord-
ing to the bignes of your Baking-pan. Of thee eight pieces of
Pate, take four to ferve for the Bottom-crufts; roll out every
almot as thin as Paper; rub the infide of the Pie-pan with
urrer or Lard,and having put one piece of Pate therein,wahit :
over with melred Lard, to the end, that another may be laid
upon it, and o of the ret. Then the Pigeons or other mall
Fowls, may be fet in order, with the Ragoo, and cover'd with
Bards or thin Slices of Bacon. Afterwards, taking the four pie-
ces of Pate that were left for the Lid, order them in the fame
manner, as thoe for the Bottom-crufts, thar is to ay, let them
be wah'd with Lard, before laid one upon another.
The Pie being thus cover'd mut wah'd over again on the
top, and fet into the Oven, taking care that it be not of too
brown a colour: When it is bakd, dres it in a Dih or Plate,
take off the Lid and Bards, pour in a good white Cullis, or one
of Muhrooms, according to the nature of the Fowls, and let all
be erv'd up hot to Table.
The Court and Country Cook. 257

A Tourte or Pan-pie of a Capons Brea for an Interme.


Take the Breat of a Capon or Pullet, and pound it in a
Mortar with a little grated Lemmon-peel, a March-pane, three
or four Yolks of Eggs, Orange-flower-water, and a little beaten
Cinnamon ; all well thicken'd., Let this Mixture be pread
upon a piece of beaten Pate roll'd out for the Bottom-cruft, and
let the Pie be bak'd without the Lid. Then ice it over with
fine Sugar, and having caus'd the Cover of a Pie-pan to be heat
ed very hot, let it be laid upon the Pie, to give it a colour ; ad
ding a little weet Water and Lemmon-juice, when ready to
be brought to Table.

Another Pan-pie made of a Capons Breast.


Let the Breat of a raw Capon, be minc'd, with as much Mar
row or Beef-ewet: Then let your Pie be made of beaten Pate,
and the intervals tuff'd with Muhrooms, Truffles, Cocks-combs,
Veal-weet-breads, a little pounded Lard, Pepper, Salt and
Nutmeg : Let it be cover'd with a Lid of the fame Pate,wahd
over, and bak'd for the pace of an Hour and half : Latly, let
fome Pitachoes, with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice be put
into it at the intant of ferving it up, and let it be fet out with
little Tarts, or ome other fort of Garniture. ,

A Pan-pie of Capons-livers.
Let the Livers be calded in Water, and afterwards laid in Or
der in a Pie-pan upon fine Pate, with chopt Muhrooms, fine
Herbs, Chibbol and pounded Lard, feafon'd with Pepper, Salt,
Nutmeg, Cloves and a piece of green Lemmon : Then cover
ing the Pie with a Lid of the fame Pate, let it be wah'd over,
and bak'd a full Hour. In the mean while, taking one of the
Livers that were referv'd, fry it with a little Lard nd Flower ;
let it alo be pounded and train'd thro' the Hair-fieve, with
Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice, after having rubb'd the bot
tom of the Dih with a Shalot. Latly, let all be put into the Pie,
as it is ferving up hot to Table.

S Gam
258 The Court and Country Cook.

Gammon-Tourtes, or Pan-pies.
A piece of good Gammon may be cut into mall Slices, and
laid in order in the Pie-pan upon a piece of fine Pate, with
Herbsschopt mall, Pepper, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, freh Butter
and a Bay leaf: It mut be cover'd, and wah'd over as the for
mer, and only fet into the Oven for half an Hour. When it is
bak'd, let fome Mutton-gravy be put into it, with Lemmon
juice and a Shalot. -

The Gammon may be minc'd, if you hall think fit, to make


a Pie of the like nature; adding Sugar, Cinnamon, white Pep
r, candy'd Lemmon-peel and a little pounded Lard. When
it is dres'd and bak'd as before, ler Lemmon-juice and Sugar be
put into it, in order to be fet on the Table.
A Pan-pie of Sheeps-tongues.
Sheeps-tongues cut into Slices may be put into a Pie-pan,
with candy'd Lemmon-peel, Currans, Dates, Pepper, Salt, Su
gar, Cinnamon, two Macaroons, fome melted Lard,
and a piece of green Lemmon. Then let your Pie be cover'd
with wah'd over, and bak'd for an Hour; putting into
it fome Lemmon-juice, Sugar and weet Water, when ferv'd
up to Table.
A Pan-pie of a Neats-tongue.
Having cut a falted Neats-tongue into very thin Slices, as
the former, let it be laid upon a piece of Pafte in a Pie-pan, ea
fon'd with Cinnamon, Pepper, Sugar and melted Lard. Then
cover it with a Lid of the fame Pate, and when it is half bak'd,
that is to ay, about half an Hour after it was fet into the O
ven, pour in half a Glas of good Wine. Afterwards, let it be
bak'd outright, and as it is ferving up, put ome Sugar into it,
with Lemmon-juice and Pomegranate-kernels. -

A Tourte, or Pan-pie of Weal-fweet-breads.


After having calded the Sweet-breads in very hot Water, let
them be put into a fine Pate, with mall Muhrooms, Truffles,
Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, green Lemmon and pounded Lard. Then
cover
The Court and Country Cook. 259
covering the Pie with a Lid of the fame Paste; wah it over,
and fet it into the Oven for an Hour. When it is bak'd, pour
in fome Veal or Mutton-gravy, adding Pitachoes and Lemmon
juice, a little before it is brought to Table. -

A Pan-pie of Beatils.
The Beatils being well cleans'd in hot Water may be put into
a Pie-pan, with Muhrooms, Truffles, Veal-weet-breads, Arti
choke-bottoms and Beef-marrow ; all well eaon'd, with Pep
per, Salt, Nutmeg, a Faggot of Herbs, and pounded or melted
Lard : Let it be cover'd with a Lid, and wah'd over as the
others, and after it has been bak'd about two Hours in an
Oven moderately heated, let ome Mutton-gravy be pour'd into
it, with Lemmon-juice, in order to be erv'd up to Table.
A Pan-pie of Veal-kidneys.
This Tourte or Pan-pie may be made two feveral Ways: For
the firt, let your Veal-kidneys be chopt mall, with a little Lard,
feafoned with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Chibbols,fine
Herbs, Muhrooms and Veal-weet-breads. The Pie being thus
made of beaten Pate, mut be cover'd, and bak'd as before,
during a full Hour. |

For the other Way ; let your Kidneys be boil'd, minc'd,


and put in like manner between two pieces of fine Pate, with
Sugar, Cinnamon, Lemmon-peel, Dates, a little Butter,two Ma
caroons, and the other neceary eaoning Ingredients. Three
quarters of an Hour are ufficient for the baking of this fort of
Pie, into which you mut put ome Lemmon-juice, Sugar and
Orange-flower-water, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.

Tourtes, or Pan-pies made of Butter, Lard and Marrow.


For the Butter Pan-pie, take very freh Butter, to the quan
tity of eight Ounces, according to the bignes of your Pie, ler
it be refind and well clear'd from the Scum ; adding a little
chopt Marrow, if the Entertainment be prepar'd for a Fleh
day, otherwife, it mut not be us'd. The Butter, being thus
refin'd, mut be taken off from the Fire, and fet by for fomie
time. Then, breaking three new laid Eggs, take the Whites,
and make fome Snow ; into which you are to put fine Sugar,
* S 2 four
26o The Court and Country Cook.
four Yolks of Eggs, candy'd Lemmon-peel cut very mall, green
Lemmon-peel grated, and a little Orange-flower-water, all
proportionably beaten : Pour the Butter into the fame Farce,
and let all be well whipt together. In the mean while, having
provided a fine Paste, let a piece of it be roll'd out very thin,
to be laid on the Pie-pan that is butter'd a little, and let the
fides of the Pie be hap'd with the Point of a Knife. After
wards, the Farce being put into it, it mut be bak'd with a
little Fire on the top, only in the middle of the Pie-pan, lest it
fhould take too brown a colour. To know when thefe forts of
Pies are ufficiently bak'd, 'tis requifite to oberve, whether they
are ready to flip off from the Baking-pans; and before they are
ferv'd up, they mut be trew'd with fine Sugar, and ic'd over
with the red-hot Fire-hovel. They may be garnih'd with Rif:
foles, Apple-fritters, or any thing elfe of the like nature.
The Lard Pan-pie is prepar'd after the fame manner, only
making ue of tried Lard intead of Butter; but care mut be
taken, that it have not the leat ill tafte, and that the Eggs be
always newly laid: If the Pies are large, a greater quantity of
Eggs will be requiite. . . -

As for the Marrow-pie, it may likewifebe made as the former;


that is to ay, when the Marrow is refined or well melted, the
Eggs are to be beaten in the fame manner, and the Lemmon
pcels, with the other Ingredients mut be added. Others pound
the Marrow, Sugar, and Lemmon-peel all together, with a
little Flower and range-flower-water. Afterwards, they whip
the Whites of the Eggs, with three or four Yolks, and mingle
them with the ret in the Mortar. However, a fine Pate ought
to be made as for the other Pies, and 'tis no great matter how
different the Ways of making them maybe, provided they tend .
to the producing of the fame good Effet.
Afagard Pan-pie for an Interme.
Take five or fix Biskets, March-panes or Macaroons, with
Sugar, and four or five Yolks of Eggs; pound them in a Mor
tar, with a little Orange-flower-water; and let the whole Mas
be laid upon Puff pate. Thenletthe Piebe bak'd with a gentle
Fire; and Iced over, till it comes to a fine colour,
/

An

|*
-------

The Court and Country Cook. 261

An Artichole-Tourte, or Pan-pie.
When the Artichoke-bottoms are well boil'd,and bcome very
white, they may be put into a Pie, with fine Herbs, Chibbols
chopt mall, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Butter. Cover your
Pie with a Lid, and put into it a white Sauce, with a little Wi
hegar, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
Otherwife,the Artichoke-bottoms may be pounded and train'd
thro' the Hair-ieve, with melted Butter or Lard, to make as
it were a kind of Cream; adding two raw Yolks of Eggs,with
Salt and Nutmeg: Let all be put into a very fine thin Pate,and
when bak'd, ferv'd up with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice.
A pounded Macaroon may alo ut into the Artichoke
cream, with Sugar, Cinnamon, candy'd Lemmon-peel, a little
Milk-cream and Salt. This Pie may be made without a Lid,
but before it is brought to Table, it mut be ic'd over with Su
gar, and Orange-flower-water.
An Aparagus-pan-pie.
Let the tender part of the Aparagus be cut, and the Tops
referv'd for garnihing. Afterwards, they mut be calded in
Water, and dres'd in a Pie, with melted Lard, Marrow, or
Butter, fine Herbs, Chibbols, Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg. This
Pie ought to be cover'd with a Lid, and when bakd, fome
Cream may be put into it, or Mutton-gravy, and the Yolk of
an Egg. -

A Spinage-pan-pie.
Take Spinage-leaves, and cald them in Water, or ele tew,
them in an earthen Pot, with half a Glas of white Wine, to
take away their Crudity. As foon as the Wine is confum'd, let
the Spinage be drain'd, and chopt very mall, eaon'd with a
little Salt, Cinnamon, Sugar, Lemmon-peel, two Macaroons
| and weet Butter. Then let them be pur into fine Pate, and,
cover'd with Slips of cut Patry-work; adding fome Sugar and.
: Orange-flower, as it is erving up to Table.

S 2 4
262 , The Court and Country Cook.

N.
A Truffle-pan-pie.
Having cut the Truffles into Slices, and caus'd the Skin to be
well peel'd off, they may be laid in order on a piece of fine Paste
roll'd out for the Bottom-cruft : Then let a little Flower be fri
ed in Butter, with fine Herbs chopt mall, and a whole Chib
bol, and let all be put into the Pie ; eafoned with Pepper, Salt
and Nutmeg. This fort of Pies is not uually coverd, but mut
be ferv'd up with Lemmon-juice.
A Tourte or Pan-pie made of Moufferons, Morilles and
common Muhrooms.
Let your Muhrooms be cur into Slices and laid upon a piece
of fine Pafte in the bottom of a Pie-pan, with fine Herbs, hib
bols, Salt, Nutmeg, fried Flower and Butter. Then cover your
Pie with a Lid, wah it over, and when bakd, ferve it up,
with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice, after having taken
away the Chibbols : A thickening Liquor may alo be added
with burnt Butter.
The Pan-pies of Morilles and Moufferons are uually made after
the fame manner. - -

An Egg-pan-pie.

Take the Yolks of Eggs, a Lump of Sugar, a little Butter


and Orange-flower-water; make as it were a kind of Cream;
and put it into a piece of very thin fine Pate rais'd with a little
Border for the Side-cruft : Then having grated fome Lemmon
eel upon it, let it be bak'd and ic'd over, when ready to be
rought to Table.

A Pan-pie, with Sorrel juice.


After having pounded the Sorrel, to get the Juice, let it be
put into a Dih, with Sugar, Cinnamon, Macaroons, a Lump
of Butter, three Yolks of Eggs, candy'd Lemmon-peel grated
and Orange-flowers: Then let all be boil'd together, as it
were Cream, and afterwards laid upona piece of very fine Paste
in the bottom of a Baking-pan. When the Pie is bakd, it may
be erv'd up, with Sugar, -

- Paus

_
The Court and Country Cook. 263

Pan-pies of divers Colours.


Another Pan-pie may be made of a kind of green Cream ;
- mingling ome Beet-juice with Pitachoes and Almonds, as they
are training thro' the Hair-fieve: For all the other forts of
Colours, fee what has been deliver'd on that Subjet, for Jellies
and Blanc-mangers, in the econd Article of Gellies under the
Letter I.

Otherforts of Tourtes, or Pan-pies.


Many other forts of Pan-pies may alo be prepard, to be
ferv'd up, as the former, among the Intermeses, as well for
Fleh-days, as thoe of Abtinence ; particularly, Pies made of
the Pulp of Oranges cut into Slices and laid upon fine Pate,
:: -*with Sugar, a pounded Macaroon, Cinnamon and Pitachoes.
:: *The fame thing may be done with green Lemmons; only fome
candy'd Lemmon-peel grated mut beus'dintead of Pitachoes,
Both thee forts of Pies are to be ferv'd up, with Musked Su
gar. Others may likewife be made of Pomegranate-kernels,
;: candy'd Lemmon-peels, preerv'd Plums, cut Pistachoes, &c.
For Almond-pies, it would be only requiite to follow the Di
retions, as well for the most proper Pates to be ued for that
purpoe, as the ret of the Managery, which have been laid
down in the firt and fourth Articles of Almonds, under the Let
24
: ter A.
It may not be improper here to ubjoin fome other Pan-pies
made of Fih, that are generally provided for Side-dihes, on
Fih-days, viz.
A Cray-fih-Tourte, or Pan-pie.
Let the Cray-fih be tew'd in a Glas of white Wine, after
they have been well wah'd ; reerving the Claws and Tails:
: Let all the ret be pounded in a Mortar, to be strain'd thro' the
Hair-fieve, with a little Broth, and melted Butter: Then the
whole Mixture may be into a Pan-pie, with Pepper, Salt,
Nutmeg, young Chibbols and Muhrooms cut into pieces, and
when the Pie is cover'd with a Lid, it must be wah'd over, in
order to bebak'd, and ferv'd up with Lemmon-juice.
' Qtherwie, the Fleh of the 8 may be minc'd and put
# S4 Unta
264 The Court and Country Cook.
into a Pie, with Carps-roes, Pikes-livers, Morilles, common
Muhrooms, T uffles, Butter and the other eaoning Ingredients,
in order to be erv'd up with Lemmon or Orange-juice.

A Pan-pie made of Carps-roes and Tongues.


The Tongues and Roes of the Carps mut be laid in order
upon a piece of fine Pate, in the bottom of the Pan; eaon'd
with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, fine Herbs, Chibbols, Morilles, com
mon Muhrooms, Truffles and weet Butter. Then, all being
cover'd with a Lid of the fame Pate, let the Pie be bak'd with
a gentle Fire, and ferv'd up with Lemmon-juice.
Pan-pies made of Pikes-livers.
Thee are to be eaon'd as the former, except that burnt
Butter mut be us'd, and a diffolved Anchovie put into them,
with Capers and Lemmon-juice, before they are brought to
Table.

A Salmon-pan-pie.
After having tew'd the Salmon for a while in Claret, it mut
be cut into Slices or Filets, and dres'd in the Pie, with candyd
Lemmon-peel, Dares, Sugar, Cinnamon, a little Pepper, Salt
and Butter: When the Pie is half bak'd, pour in the Wine in
which the Salmon was tewd; let it alo be ic'd over, and
ferv'd up, with Lemmon-juice. . .
Otherwie, the Salmon may be chopt mall, with Muhrooms,
fine Herbs, Chibbols, Artichoke-bottoms, Pepper, Salt and Nut
meg, and ferv'd up in the fame manner.
A Tourte, or Pan-pie made of Smelts, Pike, Soles, and
other forts of Fih. -

Let your Fih be cut into Filet, with chopr Morilles, common
Muhrooms and Truffles, to be laid on the bottom of the Pie;
feaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, fine Herbs, Chibbols and
pieces of Muhrooms: Or ele the . and Heads of the Fih
may be taken away and fried, to erve for Garniture. But the
Pies mut always be fet on the Tabl, with Orange or Lemmon
juice, - -

An
The Court and Country Cook. 265

An Oister-pan-pie.
This Pie is uually made after the fame manner, only it will
be requifite to add a little Bread-chippings, with Capers and a
Slice of green Lemmon, as alo the Liquor of the Oiters, be
fore it is ferv'd up to Table.
A Mucle-pan-pie.
The Mucles, being well cleans'd and wah'd, mut be fried
in a Pan, and clear'd from their Shells, in order to be dres'd in
a Pie, with Muhrooms cut into pieces, Morilles, Pepper, Salt,
Nutmeg, Thyme and Butter. When the Pie is half bak'd, the
Mucle-liquor mut be put into it, with Bread-chippings, as
alo Lemmon-juice, at the intant of ferving it up to Table.
A Pan-pie of farced Tench.
When your Tenches are well cleans'd from their Slime, flit
them on the Back, and take away the Fleh, fo as the Head
and Tail may tick to the Skin: Then mince this Fleh with
Muhrooms, Carps-roes, fine Herbs, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and
beaten Cloves; and, having tuff'd the Bones of the Fih with
the fame Farce, dres them in a Pie, with Oifters, Muhrooms,
Carps-roes, Pikes-livers and Butter ; adding half a Glas of
white Wine, when the Pie is half-bak'd, and fome Lemmon
juice, as it is ferving up to Table.
Other Tourtes, or Pan-pies made of Fih, &c.
u rtes, or Pan-pies, are likewife made of Perches, Tortoies,
and many other Fihes ; for which due Meaures may be eaily
taken from the former, or from the particular Intrutions gi
ven in their proper places, for the drefing of thoe forts of
Fih. To thele may be added Pan-pies of Beatils, and others
of Pigeons dres'd with a good Fih-farce, prepar'd with the
Fleh of Eels, Pikes and Carps, with pounded Roes: To that
purpoe, the Rumps of thoe mut be made hollow, and
a piece of a Pike's Liver, or ome other tuff'd into it: Then
they are to be tew'd a little in melted Butter, and put into a
Pie, with artificial Cocks-combs and Weal-weet-breads, made
of

|
266 The Court and Country Cook.
of the fame Compound or Farce, and calded feparately in a
Ladle. This Pie must be eaon'd with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg,
Muhrooms, Fih-roes, Moriles and weet Butter; adding
little white Wine at lat, and Lemmon-juice when ferv'd up to
Table.
T R o r r E R s.

A Side-dih of Sheeps-trotters farced.


Let the Trotters be well calded, and afterwards stew'd in
good Broth, with a little Parly and Chibbol; taking care that
they be not over-done. . As foon as they are taken out, let the
Feet be cut off, leaving the Legs; the Bones of which mut be
taken away, and the Skins pread upon the Table or Dreffer, in
order to be stuff'd with a little of the Farce of Croquets, or fome
other, and roll'd up one by one : Then, after having laid them
in a Dih, and prinkled them with a little melted Far, they
mut be neatly breaded on the top, and brought to a Colour in
the Oven. When they are colour'd, let the Fat be drain'd from
them, and let the fide of the Dih be rubb'd with a Shalot; pour
ing a little Ragoo upon them, or a Muhroom-cullis, before
they are ferv'd up hot to Table. -

Another Way of dreffing Sheeps-trotters.


Sheeps-trotters may alo be dres'd with white Sauce, frying
them in Lard, with fine Herbs, young Chibbols, Pepper, Salt
and Nutmeg: The Sauce must be thicken'd with Yolks of Eggs
and Roe-vinegar; garnihing the Dih with the Trotter-bones
fried in Paste and Parfly.
T R o U r s.

A Side-dih of broil'd Trouts,


The Trouts may be either breaded, or left in their natural
condition; for the latter, a Ragoo may be prepard, with Mouf.
ferons, Truffles, Fih-roes, and Pikes-livers fried brown, alo an
Anchovie, fine Herbs, and a few Capers. Let the Trouts be
laid a foaking for fome time in this Sauce,and afterwards ferv'd
up, with Lemmon-juice. - For
0I
The Court and Country Cook. 267
For the others, that you would have breaded, they ought to
: teept in a good Marinade, for the pace of a full Hour, af
r having cut them into pieces, to the end that they may take
e whole relih: Then they may be broil'd over a gentle Fire,
id prinkled with Lemmon-juice, whilt the Dih is garnihd
ith Petits-patez, i. e. little Pies made of Fih, or with Mari
ide. -

An Interme of Trouts on Fleh-days.


Having provided two or three good Trouts, let them be near
i gutted at the Gills, crap'd and well wipt: Then, laying
hem on the Dreffer, let the red-hot Fire-hovel be gently pas'd
ver them, yet fo as not to touch them, and let it be re-iterated
om time to time: When they are ufficiently harden'd by this
neans, they may be larded with mall Slips of Bacon in rows.
Afterwards, ome good Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon being laid
n the bottom of an oval Stew-pan, the larded Trouts must be
et in order upon them; kindling a little Fire underneath, and
utting ome live Coals on the top of the Cover, to give the
Fih a fine colour : They must alo be tirr'd at feveral times,
et they hould tick to the bottom. When they are well co
our'd, take away all the Bacon, foak your Trouts in good
Gravy, with a little Champagne-wine, and an Onion ftuck with
Cloves, and let all be gently tew'd together, and well eaon'd
n the fame Pan. As foon as they are almot done enough, and
ittle Sauce is left, let fome Truffles, Muhrooms and all forts of
Garniture, according to the Seaon, be put into a little Gam
non-effence, in order to make a well-eaon'd and fomewhat
hick Ragoo. Then dres your Trouts in a large Dih, either
of an Oval or round Figure, and pour the Ragoo round about,
after the Fat has been thoroughly drain'd off. The Dih may
be garnih'd, if you pleae, with Artichoke-bottoms, Andouillets,
or mall Trout-collops well larded and orderd as thoe of Soles.
As for the large Sea-fih, they muftbe larded with thick Slips
of Bacon, and when welltied up, they may be boil'd ina good
Court-bouillon, proper for Fleh-days, that is well feaon'd, and
enrich'd with all forts of exquiite Ingredients ; adding a little
Champagne-wine, When the Fih are ready, let them bedres'd
in Oval Dihes, and let a Ragoo be turn'd upon them, made of
all forts of Garnitures. Some freh Oiters may alo be added,with
their Liquor, or ele a Carp-auce, or one of Gammon-effence,
- may
268 The Court and Country TE
may be prepar'd for that purpoe; taking care that all be well
cleard from the Fat, and ferv'd up hot to Table.
T R U F F L H s.

The Way of drefing Truffles most in vogue, is that of a


Court-bouillon, o as they may be ftew'd in white Wine or
Claret, and eaon'd with Pepper, Salt and Bay-leaves.
They may al be broil'd upon the Coals, flitting them in
half to put in fome white Pepper and Salt, and clofing them up
again, in order to be wrapt up in wet Paper and laid over a
Fire that is not too quick : Then they may be ferv'd up to Ta
ble, on a folded Napkin. -

Or ele, after having cleans'd your Truffles, cut them into Sli.
ces, and fry them in Lard or Butter, with Flower. Then they
must be stew'd in a little Broth, with fine Herbs, Pepper, Salt and
Nutmeg, and laid a foaking in a Dih, till there be little Sauce
left; to be ferv'd up, with Mutton-gravy and Lemmon-juice.
Otherwie, feveral Ragoo's may be made of Truffles and Ca
pons-livers, as alo Tourtes or Pan-pies; as it has been before
oberv'd : And in the Entertainments with Roots or Collations
during the time of Lent, they may be eaten dry, with Oil,but
they mut be always fet on the Table among the Intermees.
T U N N 1 E s.

Tunnies may be dres'd in Slices or Filets, with Poor Man's


Sauce, and in a Sallet, with the Ramolade decrib'd Pag. 41.
They may alo be fried in round Slices, and ferv'd up ina kind
of Fih-Marinade, fuch as is fpecified in the lat Article of Mari
nades. Or ele, they may be broil'd upon a Grid-iron, after ha
ving rubb'd and trew'd them with Pepper, Salt and Butter, to
be eaten with Orange and burnt Butter. . Otherwife, a Poupe
ton may be made of them; or they may be bak'd in a Pot-pie,
utring the Fleh chopt mall into a Pot, or earthen Pan, with
Butter and white Wine; alo a piece of green Lemmon,
Pepper, Salt, Muhrooms, or Chenuts and Capers: The Dih
may be garnih'd with Bread and Oifters fried, and Slices of
Lemmon. For the other Tunny-pies, ee the eighteenth Ar
ticle of Pies, under the Letter P.
T uR
The Court and Country Cook. 269

T U R B o T.

A Side-dih of Turbot, in a Court-bouillon.


Let a well eaon'd Court-bouillon be prepard, with Vinegar,
Verjuice, white Wine, Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Thyme, Onions,
.emmon and a Bay-leaf or two; let a little Water be alo ad
ed, and at laft ome Milk, to render it very white : Then the
Turbot mut be leaurely ftew'd in it, over a gentle Fire, and
arnih'd with Parfly, Lemmon-lices laid upon it, and Violets
n their Seafon.

A Turbot ferv'd up among the Intermeffes on Fleh-days.


Having cal'd and wah'd your Turbot, put it into a large
Dih, with Bards or thin Slices of Bacon, feafoned with melted
Lard, white Wine, Verjuice, a Faggot of Herbs, Bay-leaves,
Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, whole Cloves and green Lemmon :
Then let it be cover'd with other Bards, and bak'd in a Pot be
tween two Fires, or in an Oven : In order to ferve it up to Ta
ble, take away the Bacon-Bards, dres your Turbot in a Dih,
pouring upon it a good Ragoo of Muhrooms, made of the
Sauce, and garnih it with Slices of Lemmon.
T U R K E Y s.

Among the feveral Ways of drefing Turkeys, either roasted


or in a Ragoo, the two following are, without doubt, the mot
modern, and conequently deerve to be firt taken notice of:
One of thee, is a Side-dih of Turkeys farced with fine Herbs,
and the other a Side-dih of the fame, dres'd with Onion-effence.
Turkeys are alo tew'd in a Salmigund or Hotch-porch, and
with Gammon-fauce, as fome other Mees pecified in the Ge
neral Table.

Turkeys farced with fine Herbs.


Let the Turkeys be trus'd for roating, but not parboil'd :
The Skin on their Breat mut alo be loofen'd, to the end that
they may be conveniently tuff'd with a Farce made of raw Ba
COn,
27o The Court and Country Cook.
con, Parly, Chibbol, and mot forts of fine Herbs, all chopt mall,
s pounded a little in a Mortar and well feafon'd: The Turkeys
i thus farced between the Skin and the Fleh, as alo a little
in the Body, mut be well pitted and roated. Afterwards,
they are to be dres'd in a Dih, upon them a good Ra
goo, of all forts of Garnitures, and ferv'd up hot to Table.
The fame thing may be done with Chickens, Pigeons and other
forts of Fowl, and to diverifie them on feveral Days, they may
be bak'd or stew'd in a Pot between two Fires, after they have
been tuff'd, as before. When they are ready, let them be
well drain'd, and ferv'd up with a good Ragoo of Truffles, and
Veal-weet-breads; all well dres'd, clear'd from the Fat, and
garnih'd with mall Croquets. -

A Side-dih of Turkeys, with Onion-effence.


The "Onions mut be cut into Slices and fried in a Stew
s pan, with Lard: Then the Fat being drain'd a little from them,
they mut be tos'd up again, with as much Flower as can be
got up between your Fingers ; adding fome good Gravy,
Cloves, and the other neceary eaoning Ingredients. When
all have been tew'd together a little while, let them be strain'd
thro' the Hair-fieve, and afterwards put into the Stew-pana
third time, with a few drops of Verjuice and a little Bread
cullis. In the mean while, the Turkeys having their Wings, :
Breat and Legs well tied up, ought to be roated, and dresd
in a Dih ; pouring the Sauce upon them, before they are
ferv'd up after the uual manner.
~

Other Side-dihes of Turkeys.


Sometimes young Turkeys, one of them larded, and the other
only barded, or cover'd with thin Slices of Bacon, withoutbe-s
ing breaded, are roasted and ferv'd up in Gravy.
At another time, your Turkeys being barded and roasted,
take away their Legs, Wings and Breafts, and cut them into .
Filets, to be put intoa Ragoo of Cucumbers fried brown, with
a brown thickening Liquor, and ' '^^^ of Lemmon, as they
are drefing.
THE COTT Tountry Cook. 27 I

V.
V E A L.

IN feveral places of this Book,we have taken occafion to hew,


how Veal may bedres'd in order to make a great number of
Mees and Dihes for every Service ; particularly, Veal-stakes
for Side-dihes, Veal-cutlets, Pies made of a Fillet of Veal, &c.
not to mention, a very great number of other Dihes that are
made of Veal, or at leaft, in which Veal is us'd: So that it re
mains only to produce fome other manners of drefing this fort
of Met, for eparate Dihes.

A Side-dih of Veal, after the Italian Way.


Having provided fome Slices or Stakes of Veal that are very
tender, and curthem as it were to make Fricandoes or Scotch-col
lops; letthem bebeatena little with the Cleaving-knife. Then let
fome good Bards, or thin Slices of Bacon be laid on the bottom
of a tew-pan ; let the Veal-takes be likewife laid in good or
der upon them ; andler all be well eaon'd. The quantity of
thee Stakes mut be adjuted, according to the bignes of your
Dih or Plate; which being cover'd on the top, with other Ba
con-Bards, the Pan mut be fet la Braife, or between two Fires.
When all have been ufficiently bak'd in this manner, take out
all the Bards and the Meat a-part, and drain off the Fat; only
leaving as much as will ferve to make fome brown Sauce, with
a little Flower, in the fame Stew-pan, but not too much: After
wards, foaking it with good Gravy, Put your Veal-takes again
into the Pan, and make an end of dreffing them; with Veal
fweet-breads, Truffles cut into Slices, Muhrooms, boil'd Cocks
combs, two Slices of Lemmon, a Faggor of fine Herbs, a few
drops of Verjuice, a bit of Shalot, and a little Bread-cullis to
thicken the Sauce: But all mut be well clear'd from the Fat,
and brought hot to Table.

To dref Veal la Bourgeoife.


Let fome Veal-takes be cut fomewhat thick, and larded
with a mall wooden Larding-pin ; the Lardooss being eaon'd
a little, with Parly, Chibbols, beaten Spices, Pepper and :
- - - - - - - -- - hen
272 The Court and Country Cook.
Then let feveral mall Bards of Bacon be put int a Stew-pan, !
and let the Veal-takes be laid in order upon them. The Fire :
ought to be very gentle at firt, to the end that the Meat may
fweat, and may be brought to a Colour on both Sides, by put- .
ting in a little Flower: When it is ufficiently colour'd, let it
lye a foaking, with good clear Broth and boil gently. After-
wards, the Sauce mut be thicken'd a little, and clear'd from the
Ft, prinkling it with a little Vinegar or Verjuice; fo as the
whole Mes may be conveniently dres'd in a Dih and ferv'd up
hot to Table. -

A Loin of Veal in a Ragoo.


Lard your Loin with thick Slips of Bacon, feaon it with
Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg, and when it is almot roafted, put
it into a Stew-pan cloe cover'd, with Broth, a Glas of white
Wine, ome of the Dripping, fried Flower, a Bunch of Herbs,
Muhrooms, and a piece of green Lemmon : Latly, let all be {
ferv'd up with hort Sauce, after having taken away fome of the
Fat, and let the Dih be fet out with larded Veal-weet-breads, :
Cutlets, or other forts of Garniture.
Other Ways of dreffing a Quarier and Loin of Veal.
A Quarter of Veal may be larded with mall Slips of Bacon,
except the thick end ; which is to be well breaded and eaon'd.
It mut be garnih'd with Riffoles and Capons-breats, and ome
} a DIC,
",
mut be pour'd upon it, when ready to be fer on the s
- ~

It may alo be marinated in an oval Stew-pan, and well or-


der'd with the uual eaoning Ingredients: When it is roasted,
take the Kidney to make farced Tofts to garnih the whole
Quarter, or elfe an Omelet, and let the Dih be fet out with
Marinades, either of Cutlets or Chickens, or with farced Cutlets
and fried Parfly.
Another middling Side-dih may be made of half a Loin of
Veal, boil'd in a Court-bouillon that is well eaon'd and enrich'd;
wrapping it up in a Napkin, left it hould break. It must be
garnih'd with fried Bread, Parfly and Lemmon-lices. *,
The Court and Country Cook. 273

A great Side-dih of a Quarter, or Crupper of Veal farced


upon the Leg. . . . *

For the Ragoo that is proper for the stuffing of this Joint of
Mear, fee the Article of where it is explain'd at large;
or elfe make a well eaon'd Hah of the Fleh that is taken our
of the Leg, and cover it again neatly with the Skin. Then let.
that part, which is notlarded, be breaded with Bread-crum ;
garnihing the Dih with Cutlers either farced or unfarced; or
with Riffoles and Crufts of fried Bread, all brought to a fine co
lour: A Quarter of Veal may alo be larded with Hatlets. -
- - / *# : , ) i

Several Ways of dreffing a Breast of Veal. . . . . .


A Side dih may be made of a farced Breast of Veal, gar
nih'd with roasted Poupiets in the form of Quails, and a good
Ragoo pour'd on the top: This Joint mut be firt roasted brown,
and afterwards tew'd in a Por, i A piece of a Beef-take mut
alo be dded, as it is dreing, to enrich it, and a brown thicken
ing Liquor with Gravy, when ready to be ferv'd up to Table.
As for the Farce, it mut be made of other Veal, with Beef
fewer or Marrow, Bacon, fine Herbs, Muhrooms and Weal
fweet-breads, and feaon'd with Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg. A
Breat of Veal may alo be boil'd in an earthen Pan, or in a
Stew-pan, with Broth and a Glas of white Wine. Then ome
Muhrooms are to be fried in the ame Lard, in which the Meat
was dres'd, with a little Flower, and all mut be mingled to
ether. - - -

8 Another Side-dih may be made of a Breat of Veal in a Tour


te or Pan-pie, with a well eaon'd Godivoe, and good Garnitures,
as for other Pies; adding a proper thickening Liquor and ome
Lemmon-juice, before it is brought to Table: Lastly, another
Dih may be prepard of a farced or unfarced Breat of Veal,
roasted and put into a Ragoo, with Lemmon-juice, when ferv'd
up ; garnihing it with y Cocks-combs and
Or ele the Breast of Veal being firt par
* boil'd, may be marinated in Vinegar, with Pepper, Salt and
* Bay-leaves: Afterwardsit may beflowerd and well fried,in order
TO ferv'd up with fried Parily and the rest of the Sauce.
. . . . r2 T - V EA L
*

77T- - The Court T G CF.


/

V E A L - s w E, e r - B R E A D s.
Befides the Place that Veal-weet-breads have in all the bet
forts of Ragoo's,as it plainly appears in very many Particulars;
feveral eparate Dihes may be made of them, or Out-works,
both for Side-dihes and Intermees, of which the following, is
one of the mot confiderable. - 1- 9 , !

, tal-free-bread,farced la Dauphine.
Let ome good Veal-weet-breads be calded a little, and,
larded with boil'd Gammon : In the mean while, having pre
par'd a delicious and omewhat thick Farce, make a Hole with
the point of a Knife on the Side of your Sweet-breads; but o
as it may/not quite thro:- Then they mut be neatly
ftuff'd in that Hole and bak'd in a Por, or Pan between two
gentle Fires; whilt a good Ragoo is making for them, of Mouf.
Jerns, cmmon Muhrooms, Truffles and Artichoke-bottoms :
All being well dres'd fome Cocks-combs tuff'd with the fame
Farce mut be added and a little Chicken-cullis, to the end that
the Sauce may not turn black : Then having thoroughly clear'd
the Sweet-breads from the Fat, let them be put into the Ragoo
and stew'da little: Afterwards the whole Mes must be dreisd
in a Dih, fqueezing in the Juice of an Orange, and fet hot on
the Table. . . . , ,.-i. . . .

other Ways of dring rujna irudi.


- Otherwie the Veal-weet-breads, being larded with thin
Slips of Bacon and roated, may be order'd with a good Ragoo,
or Sauce pour'd upon them: Or ele, after having been mari
nared, cut into Slices and flowerd, they may be fried, in order
to be ferv'd up, with fried Parly and Lemmo-jice : Or last
ly, different Ragoo's may be made of them, viz. ometimes
with a white Sauce; fometimes with Morilles, and common
Muhrooms; and ometimes with Truffles; but they must be
always fetamong the Intermees. : -

VE N1 so N, fee Deer, Hinds, Roe-bucks,Stags,wild Boars,&c.


V = N 1 so N - P As F1 E s, ee PA s r 1 5 s.
W.
W

The Court and Country Cook. 27$


; : - r' : ,, i

W H I T I N G s. -
Whitings may be dres'd in Cafferole, after the fame manner
as many other forts of Fih: They may alo be fried, and ferv'd
up with Qrange-juice and white Pepper ; to which
they must be fliton the Back, and strew'd with Pepper and Salt:
They mut alo be steept in Vinegar, flowerd and dipt in a thin
Paste or Batter, before they areput into the Frying-pan. Other
wife Whitings may be farced ; as it appears in the Article of a
Miroton for Fih-days, and their Filets may not only be ferv'd up
in a Sallet, as it has been oberv'd Pag. 41. but alo in feveral
forts of Ragoo's and even in a Standing-pie, in a Tourte, or Pan
pie and in # for which feethe repetive Articles whereto
they belong, asthoe of Pikes, Soles, &c.
w O O D - C O C K S.

How to made a Side-dist of Wood-cock, with Wine, &c.


Take Wod-socks ahent theminte Qarters, s it were
Chickens for a white Fricaffy; as alo fome Truffles, cur in
to Slices, with Weal-weet-breads, Moufferons and common
Muhrooms; all which are to be fried together, and foak'd with
good Gravy : Afterwards, two Glaes of white or red Wine
may be pour'd in, and when the whole Mes is well tew'd
and eaon'd; a Wood-cock-cullis, to thicken the Sauce, or
fome other good Cullis, accordingly as it may tand with your
| Convenience. A Spoonful of Gammon-effence may alo be ad
ded, and all mut be thoroughly clear'd from the Fat. Then
lay your Wood-cocks in order in a Dih, turn the Ragoo upon
rhem, and queez in the Juice of a Lemmon, before they are
bronghthor to Table.
To make a Salmigund or Hotch-potch of Wood-cocks, with
Wine.

When the Wood-cocks are half roated, let them be cut into
pieces, and put into a Stew-pan with Wine, proportionably to
their quantity : Let fome chopt Muhrooms and Truffles be alo
T 2, thrown
276 T Com ama Country Cook.
thrown in, with a few Anchovies and Capers and let all be well
ftew'd together. Then the Sauce being thicken'd with a good
Cullis, the Wood-cocks mut be dres'd and kept hot, with
out boiling : Afterwards, having drain'd off all the Fat, and
fqueez'd in the Juice of an Orange, they may be erv'd up hot
to Table.
A Side-dihmaybe alo made of Wood-cocks in Sur-tout ; for
which fee the Article of Pigeons dres'd in that manner,
under the Letter P; and for a hot Pie of Wood-cocks and Par
tridges, recoure may be had to the first Article of Pies.
- * *

The End of the Court and Country Cook.

N E W
t . ?

--- - , -, , . , '

- - - ----
N E W

INSTRUCTIONS
F O R

ConfettiolletB ;
D I R E C T I N G

How to Preferve all forts of Fruits, as


well dry, as liquid; alo how to make divers
Sugar-works, and other fine Pieces of Curioi
ty belonging to the Confectionary Art.

C H A P. I.

Ofthedifferent Ways of Boiling Sugar; of theChoice


of it, and of the Manner of Clarifying it.
Oramuch as the Ground-work of the Confetioner's
Art, depends upon the different Ways of Boiling Su
| gar, it is requifite in the firt place, to give a particu
lar Account of them; to the end that the Reader may
more readily apprehend the meaning of feveral Terms
hereafter us'd to expres them, and that unprofitableRepetitions
may be avoided; which would inevitably happen if they were
explain'd in every distint Article, as the variety of Matter
would require. Thee Boilings then, are performd by degrees,
and bear the following Denominations; that is to ay, :
T 3 may
2 New Instructions for Confetioners.
may be boil'd till it becomes Smooth, Pearled, Blown, Feather'd,
Crack'd and Caramel: Thefe Degrees are alfo ditinguih'd with
repet to their proper Qualifications; as the leffer and the
reater Smooth, the leffer and the greater Pearled, Feathered a
f and a great deal; and fo of the ret.
* The Boiling of Sugar call'd Smooth.
As foon as your Sugar is clarified, and fer again on the Fire
in order to be boil'd, you may know when it has attain'd to its
fmooth Quality, by dipping the T
of your Fore-finger into
it; afterwards ir to your Thumb,, and opening them
a little, a fmll Thread or String ticks to both, which imme
diately breaks and remains in a Drop upon the Finger: When
this String is almot imperceptible, the Sugar is only boil'd till
it becomes a little fmooth, and when it extends it elf farther
before it breaks, 'tis a fign that the Sugar is very mooth. To
avoid calding your felf, in making this Experiment; as it may
happen, if your Finger were diretly dipt into the Sugar, you
need only take out the Skimmer, which ought always to be
kept in the Copper-pan to tir the Sugar from time to time, and
ro caue it to boil equally: Then holding it a little while on
the top, after having haken it, touching the Pan, with the Han
dle ?the Skimmer, receive the Sugar that ftill runs from it,
and only pas the tip of your Finger upon the edge of the faid
Skimmer, which is ufficient to know, whether the Sugar is be
come mooth, or not, by oberving the former Diretions.
'--' ' , - The Pearled Boiling.
After having boil'd your Sugar, a little longer, re-iteratethe
fame Experiment, and if in your Fingers, as before,
the String continues ticking to both, the Sugar is Pearled. The
greater Pearled Boiling is when the String continuesin like man
ner, altho' the Fingers were stretch'd our farther, by entirely
freading the Hand This for of Boiling may alio teknon
by a kind of round Pearls (that arie on the top of the Li
qur. , , , . " " - - - ----
- * w * . . . . -

- Ti.
New Instructions for Confectioners. 3
|

{ The Blown Biling. ri

|
z when your Sugar has boird a few more Walms, hold the
Skimmer in your Hand, and having hakenir a little, as before,
beating the fide of the Pan, blow thro' the Holes ofit, from one
fide to the other; and if certain Sparks as it were, or mall
Bubbles fly out, the Sugar is come to the degree of Boiling,
call'd Blown.
-,
-
... e -
- f - ' - -

-

- - -
3
-
-- - -
-
--
-

: s i - - ' - *1 v. v *** ** * * -- - -

r
The Feathered Boiling.
- -, -
, '. -

When after fome other Seethings, you blow thro' the Skim
mer, or hake the Spatula with a Back-troke, till thicker and
larger Bubbles rie up on high, then the Sugar is become Fea-
thered: And when after frequent Tryals, you perceive thee
Bubbles to be thicker, and in greater quantity, fo that feveral
of them tick together, and form as it were a flying Flake;
then the Sugar is greatly Feathered. , - - - -
-
- . :) -. '...'
The Crackd Boiling. it

To know when the Sugar has attain'd to this degree, a Por


or Pan, must be provided, with cold Water: Then dip the tip
of your Finger into that Water, and having dextrouly run it
into the boiling Sugar, dipit again immediately into the Water,
at leat if you would avoid calding your felf: Thus keeping
your Finger in the Water, rub off the Sugar, with the other
two; and if it breaks afterwards, making a kind of crackling
Noie, it is come to the point of Boiling; call'd Crack'd.
The Caramel Boiling.: a " ! s'i not
, ' --92. ::: u: 1:'ri,
If in the condition, to which the Sugar is reduc'din tie for.
mer Boiling, it be put between the Teeth, it would stick to
them as it were Glue or Pitch ; but when it is boil'd to cara
mel, it breaks and cracks, without sticking in the least. There
fore care must be taken to oberve every Moment, when it has
attain'd to this.lat degree of Boiling ; pttin the preceding Di
retions into Practice, to know, when it is rack'd, and after
wards biting the Sugar fo order'd with your Teeth, to try whe
ther it will tick to them: As foon as you perceive, that it does
T 4 InOt
4 - NF Instrva; fr CFim.
not tick, but on the contrary, cracks and breaks clever, take it
off immediately from the Fire; otherwie it would burn, and
be no longer good for any manner of ue, becaue it will always
raste burnt: Whreas with repet to the other well-condition'd
Boilings, if after having preerv'd any Sweet-meats, ome Sugar
be till left, that is Crack'd, for example, or greatly Feather
ed, and that is of no further ue in that condition, it would be
only requiite to as much Water to it, as is needful to boil
it over again, and then it may be brought to whatoever degree
you hall think fit, and even intermix'd with any other fort of
ugar,or Syrup. - -

This lat Caramel-boiling is proper for Barley-ugar, and for


certain mall Sugar-works call'd by that Name, which hall be
hereafter explain'd: The Pearled Boiling is generally us'd for
all forts of Confits, that are to be kept for a confiderable time :
Some caue their Sugar to be boil'd to a higher degree, but it is
foon undone and reduc'd to the Pearled Quality, by the Moi
fture and Coldnes of the Fruits, that are thrown into it. The
Ue of the other Ways of Boiling hall be hewn in treating of
the
fite. feveral forts of |-Sweet-meats, for which they are requi
*v

It is alo neceary to undertand, That ometimes Fruit may


be preerv'd with thin Sugar, that is to ay, when two Ladles
full of clarified Sugar are put to one of Water, four to two, fix
to three, and fo on proportionably to the quantity of the Fruit,
thar ought to be well foak din it : To that purpoe, the Sugar
and Water must be heated together omewhat more than luke
warm,
i. 2... ,
wbe poured upon them.
, ) ", * - -- - .
- -

-------- * The choice of Sugar.


For the bet manner of Preerving Fruits, a Confetioner
ought to make choice of the finet and whitet Loaf-ugar, that
can be procur'd ; fuch as is hard and ringing, nevertheles light
and weet, without the leat harpnes. If there be occafion to
ue Powder-fugar, the whitet and cleanest mut likewie be
'hofen: Howeverboth theefrts ought to be clarified; fo thar
shere will be much les Work to do rhan otherwie, if the Loaf.
fugar * Powderstir were not well-conditioned, . .

-* * - is i "" ^ ^ ^ 1 2 & -1 TIL... : ' ' , ' ' . , --: - *

n: :* * * :* * *, *
-: ; * a. d. i nog '*' : ' :
* * **

2s , : : : :ru: : : : : : ::: : " ::: . How


, , 7c:: . - 4. i -
NE sm for ConfnE 5 -

How to clarife Sugar.


The Confectioner's Work begins with the clrifying of Su
gars to which purpoe ; an earthen Pan mut be provided
with Water, into which an Egg is to be broken with the Shell,
or more, according to the quantity of Sugar: Then let all be
whipt together with Birchen Rods or a Whisk, and pour'd up
on the Sugar that is to be melted : Afterwards, having fet it
over the Fire, tirrit continually and take off the Scum careful
ly when it boils: As often as the Sugar rifes, a little cold Wa
ter mut be pour'din, to hinder it from running over and to raife
the Scum ; adding alo the Froth of the White of an Egg,
whipt a-part. When after having well feumm'd the Liquor,
- there is only left a mall whitih Froth, and not black and foul,
as before ; and when you perceive the Sugar to be altogether
clear upon the Skimmer, in laying it upon the Surface, it mut
be remov'd from the Fire, and being pas'd thro' the Straining
bag it will be perfetly clarified. y

When a confiderable quantity of Sugar is clarified at once,


and conequently a great deal of Scum ries, which is always
accompanied with a little Sugar; this Scum being temper'd
with Water, may be boil'd in the fame Pan, into which it was
put, and afterwards all train'd thro' the Bag.
Private Perons, who in preerving Fruits, ue only four or
five. Pounds of Sugar at once, to avoid this trouble, and yet not
lofe any Sugar, may clarifie it in the following manner. . Let
the Sugar be melted with Water, and fet over the Fire, with the
White of a whipt Egg. As foon as it boils and wells up ready
to run over, a little cold Water mut be pour'd in to give it a
Check: But when it rifesa fecond time, let it be remov'd from
the Fire, and fet by about a quarter of an Hour, during which
fpace, it willfink, and a black Scum will only fetttle on the top,
vvhich is to begently taken off with the Skimmer: Afterwards,
ftrain it thro' the Bag and it will be ufficiently clarified. In
deed Sugar fo orderdis notfo clear nor fo white as the former,
nevertheles it will ferve to make all forts of good Comfits.
The Water that is proper for the boiling of Sugar, ought to
be raken out of a Spring or River, and very clear; altho' for
rnany other Things Well-water may alo be us'd: The leer
of Water is put to the Sugar, which isto be melted and
d, fo mueh the les time is requifite for the performing
- - C
/

6 New Instrations for Confectioners.


the neceary Boilings; whereas the contrary happens, when
there is a great f of Water, becaue ir mut all evaporate
As to this particular, no cruple ought to be made, concerning .
a Maxim deliver'd in fome Books, viz. That in cauing Sugar .
to be boil'd a-part without the Fruit, its bet Spirits exhale with -
the Water, and it becomes only capable of Preerving the uppet :
Part of the Fruits, asbeing made greafie and thick by the Boil. .
ing; whereas (in their Opinion) the Fruits are more eailype :
netrated, when both are boil'd together in the Beginning: For ,
this Affertion is contrary, not only to the general Practice of :
Confetioners, but alo to Experience and Truth; fince the
Fruits always appear to have as much Sugar in the Infide, as :
on the Surface, provided they be well orderd, which maybe .
done by working and boiling them, feveral Days, in the man- ,
ner hereafter decribd. For altho' generally peaking, the Pre
ferving of Fruit may be finih'd in one Day; yet it is expedient :
that divers be taken up in on the Work, if you would a
have them kept for any confiderable time, and orderd as they
ought to be. . . - - - " . ::
The common People only judge the Sugar to be ufficiently
boil'd, when the Drops thar are put upon a Plate grow thick, ,
as it were a Jelly and ceae to run, any longer: Indeed this :
Way of boiling is proper for certain Jellies of Fruit, and for
Compotes; but no great Progres would be made in the Art of
Preerving, if nothing ele were known : So that it is abo ,
lutely neceary to understand all the different Degrees of bol
ing above-pecified, and the distinction is only made by thoe .
Tryals, at leaft without a long Pratice; and even the most
skilful Confetioners know nothing otherwife, after the Fea. .
thered Boiling. , - R.

|-
, ,
- * * C H A P. II. - y

Of the Utenfils and neceary for Cor


- fectioner, and of their Ue.
-
- :
TH. understanding of this Article ought alo to be prefir
pos'd, without which what is hereafter laid down, canno:
be well apprehended; as neither is it poible to put
- 10f'S
*
New Instractions for Confectioners. 7
retions into Pratice, if the greater part of thee Utenfils be
wanting. Therefore it is requiite to provide Pans, with their
Skimmers, and Spatula's, one or two Furnaces, Sieves, Grates,
a Stove, a Campain-oven, a Citern, feveral Mortars, a Mar
ble-tone, and a Syringe; not to mention the Trunks, Boxes,
Pots, Glaffes, and fome other little Knacks, that are very
C0mmOn.
The Pans ought to be of feveral Sizes, fome flat and others
hollow, for different Ues. The flat Pans are for thoe Fruits
that ought to be foak'd in their Syrup, without laying them in
heaps one upon another ; and the hollow ones, are us'd when .
any Thing is to be preferv'd dry, by boiling and working the
Sugar; as for Oranges, Lemmons and Conferves. All thee
Pans are uually made of red Copper, as alo the Skimmers and
Spatula's, and there are a few Houes of Perons of Quality,
where they are wanting; otherwife uch Pans may be us'd as
are athand, and the ordinary hollow ones may ferve well enough,
for all forts of Operations.
Upon this occafion, it may not be improper to undeceive
thoe, who upon the Affeveration of fome Writers, might be
induc'd to believe, That the caues an ill Taste in pre
ferved Fruts, when they are fet by in a Pan, from the Fire; for
as yet ir could never be perceiv'd, althoit is very cutomary to
leave them therein indifferently during feveral Days: Indeed
care ought to be taken to keep them clean, and notto follow the
Example of fome Slovenly Work-men who when they inter
mix fome old Syrups, let in the green Ruft that ticks on the
fides of the Pan, with a great deal of other Filth ; which does
not hinder them from proceeding in their Work, and dif
pofing of all Promicuouly with a great deal of Afurance.
It is expedient, that all the Pans be stampt according
to the Standard, or have the mark of their Weight engrav'd up
on them, in order to know the quantity of Sugar that has
been boil'd in them, when they are put into one Scale, and the
Fruits, which are to be preerv'd into the other, with the Tare
of what the Pan weighs; to regulate and proportion the Weight
of both, conformably to the Diretions hereafter given.
The management of a Furnace is ufficiently known, only
thoe of Confetioners ought to be omewhat than the
common ones, to the end that the Fire preading itelf in a
greater extent round about the Pan, the Sugar and Fruits
which are to be preerv'd may boil more on all fides.
Upon
8 AVen Instructions for Confeioners.
Upon any emergent Occafion, almot all the Operations may :
be performd over the ordinary Kitchen-furnaces, if they may
befreely us'd without any difturbanee. 2
The Sieves are alo a fort of Intruments the ue of whichis
not unknown: They ferve to make an end of drying the Pastes :
of Fruits, when they are turn'd ; to train Jellies and Syrups;
to drain Fruits, that have been laid in Water, and for feveral :
other good purpoes. A finer Sieve call'd a Drum must likewie :
be provided, to fift powder'd Sugar, that is us'd in divers :
WorkS.
To thee must be added a kind of Cullander to drain the
Fruits, either after they have been calded in Water, or when :
they are taken our of the Sugar. This Intrument, for want
of which an ordinary Cullander may be us'd, is a Piece of
Copper or Tin omewhat hollow, bor'd thro with many Holes, i
and flexible, fo as the Fruits may be eaily flipt into it at plea- :
fure. When Fruits taken out of the Sugar are to be draind; :
ir is requiite to fet this Cullander over a Pan to receive the Su- :
gar that drops from it. - |
The fame thing may be done with the Grates, which are :
made of feveral Circles of Wires fet very cloe together inform ;
of Cros-bars; upon which thoe Comfits are chiefly laid, ti :
are to be preferv'd dry, whilt the Sugar is preparing to ice {
rhem over. - :
The Stove is a little Cloet, well stopt upon all fides, where :
there are feveral Stories, or Rows of Shelves, one above ano- :
ther, made of the fame fort of Wires, to hold the Sweet-meats :
that are to be dried, and which are uually laid upon Slates,
pieces of Tin, fmooth Boards, or Sieves; having first causdi
the Syrup out of which they were taken, to be drain'd of
Then a Pan, or large Chafing-dih, with Fire, is to be feton :
the bottom, and omerimes two, if there are many Things to be
dried, or if the Buines requires dipatch. - Thus the Stowe A
mut be hut up cloe, and in the Evening, or the next Mom- :
ing, the Sweet-meats contain'd in it, either Pastes or Fruis :
muft be turn'd, to caue them to dry equally: The latter are |
to be trew'd with Sugar, except fome forts, as green Apri: :
cocks and green Almonds; but the Pastes mut not be turn ;
again, till they become firm, fome of which are alo strew: ,
with Sugar on one fide: Then they may be gently remov'da
from the Slates, with a Knife and laid upon others, or upon :
Sieves, asit has been already hinted: Afterwards they mustbes
- pur
New Instructions for Confeioners._ 9
put again into the Stove, changing the Stories, if it be judg'd
expedient, and renewing the Fire : So that the Art of Prefer
ving cannot be put into Practice, without one of thee Stoves,
or fome other Machine of the like nature; for in drying Sweet
meats at the Fire, they would not receive the heat equally on
all fides, and the Fruits would be hrivell'd up: It would alo
be too tedious to dry them in the Sun; becaue they would
give, and grow oft during the coolnefs of the Night, and at
other times, when depriv'd of the Raies of that great Lumi
nary. - -

The Campain-oven is a portable Oven made of red Copper


three or four Inches high, of a convenient length, and a{
little upon Feet, o that a Fire may be kindled underneath, as
occafion requires: The Cover or Lid of it ought to have I, ed
ges, to hold Fire likewife, when it is neceary to put fome on
the top, or on both fides: This Cover mut be taken off from
time to time, to fee whether that which is contain'd in the Oven
be ufficiently bak'd or brought to a good Colour. For want of
fuchan Instrument, the Kitchen-oven of Maons-work, orfome
other may be us'd, accordingly as a convenient opportunity may
be found; or ele a Silver-dih and certain large Baking-pans
that are orderd almot in the fame manner. . . . . . . s
The iftern is another kind of portable Instrument, in formi
of a Box, into which Blanc-mangers, Jellies, Creams, and more
epecially Liquors are put, in order to be iced. The Contru
ction and Ue of it hall be hereafter explain'd, in treating of
thoe repetive Articles. . -
Befides the Stone-mortar, in which Sugar, Almonds and other
neceary Ingredients are pounded, another little one of Brasor
ome other Metal mut be alo provided for the beating of Cin
namon, Cocheneal, Cloves, Amber and other Things that ought
tobe reduc'd to a finer Powder. - - -

The Marble-stone, which is much of the fame nature as that


us'd by Painters for the grinding of their Colours, ferves only
to prepare the Barley-fugar, that is rubb'd with Oil of Olives.
he little Trunks, Boxes, Pots and Glaffes, are different Vef
elsproper to hold dry or wet Sweet-meats, and fuch may be
us'd as are at hand. . * * *

A Confetioner ought alo to be furnih'd with a Straining


bag, to clarifie his Sugar, and to strain other Liquors; a Rol
ling-pin to roll out pieces of Pate for crackling Cruts and
March-panes; divers Tin-moulds to hape them, and to dres
:: the
IO - New Instructions for Confectioners.
the Pates of Fruits; a Syringe made on purpoe for other forts
of March-pane and Biskets ; certain wooden Stamps, to make
an Impreion upon the Pastils; and feveral other little Knacks,
by the means which he may fet off his Work to the best ad
vantage.
- , ," "

C H A P. III.
Of the Confeifioner's Employment throughout the
whole Tear, according to the Seafons of the Flow
ers and Fruits. :

it ' , ' ') 112. 1: ' ? . : ' } ', ! - :

Fter the Intructions contain'd in the fore-going Chapter, it i


* is expedieni, before we proceed to the main Body of the
Work, to expoe to publick View every Thing that may be
preerv'd, as well Fruits and Flowers as other forts of Works;
to the end that the Confetioners and other Officers may have :
a general Idea of what they are to perform, and ar the fame
time, of what may be ferviceable in every particular Seaon. :
January and February.
- - - -
*.

During thee two Months Sevil-Oranges, thoe of the Port,


and others, are uually preerv'd: Whole, in Quarters, or in
Sticks: Pates, Conerves and Marmelades, are alfo made of
them ; and their Peels are candy'd either in Kests, or in Fag
OUS, . . , ::

3 Lemmons, Cedres, and yellow Citrons, are preerv'd after the


fanne manner; and if the Provifions that were made of other :
forts of preerved Fruits are now conum'd, that Defe may
be reciprocally by thee; the pleaant Variery of which
will be very grateful, and give a great deal of fatisfation.
-

March and April.


- - 2 - ' . -- ; ~ . :

Thee are the two first Months of the Year that afford Mat- ;
ter for new Comfits, that is to ay, Violers, which are the first s
Flowers of a fragrant mell that the Earth brings forth, after :
- - - 1t |

--
*

New Instrutions for Confettioners.' 11


it has been deliver'd from the Tyranny of the harp Winter.
With thee Flowers, Conerves and Pates are made, as alo
Syrup of Violets, the ros Subtance of which may be kept in
Marmelade, to make dry Pastes, at other times : For want of
thee, when it is requiite to prepare any Thing, that has the
taste and mell of a Violet, Indio and Powder of Orrice are
generally us'd; particularly for Pastils and Moes, which are
Sugar-works that may be made in any Seaon. - - - - -

* . .
*

: :
* *

: ::
May.
-, :: : : v
, :
* -
- - -,Y
\ .

In this Month green Gooe-berries firt appear, of which


compotes and Jellies are made : They are alo preferv'd liquid
for the ret of the Year, either for Tarts, or to be ferv'd up
again in compore, upon certin Occaions. . 1. - .. . . ..
Green Apricocks come about the fame time; affordingMat
ter likewife for Compotes, Pates and Marmelades: But they
are chiefly prefery'd dry, and kept for a confiderable time.
Green Almonds, which belong to the fame Seafon, may be
order'd after as many different manners, viz. for Compotes,
Pastes and Marmelades, as well as preferv'd dry or liquid, in
order to be us'd upon any emergent Occaion. . . . . ..
| Straw-berries begin likewife to appear, which may be ferv'd,
up, not only in their natural Condition, but alo in Compotes,
to diverifie the former Banquets. ". , :
- - , ori : , ' , -, , ,
B e ^ iis 1, June. " !
; , ; , ; , ,' , : - - *

This Month afords good store of Rasberries, Cherries and


Currans: Compotes, Conerves and Pastes are frequently made
of the firt of thee Fruits; and 'tis how a proper time to begin.
to Preferve them dry and liquid. ::: :, s: - *

Cherries, as foon as any ones can be procur'd, are like


wile put into Compotes, half Sugar and Conerves: They may
beiced overwith Powder-ugar, and as thisFruitcomesto a fuller
growth, or: when better forts of them may be gatherd, they
are preerv'd in Ears, in Bunches and after other manners:
Cakes or Pates are then prepar'd with Cherries, as alo Mar
melade, and at lat they are preerv'd liquid, in order to be
kept for a confiderable time: A Jelly may be alo made of them, -
and the Juice extracted from thoe thar are boil'd for Pastes,
and of others out of which the Stones were taken, to be pre
- - , ferv'd,
12 New Instruions for C F 77.
ferv'd, my be us'd to very good purpoe, in that Jelly, and for
the Liquor call'd Ratafiaz, as well as the Syrup of thoe that
are dried. , -

As for Currans; Pastes, Conerves and Compotes, are firt made


of them, befides thoe that are iced; others are preerv'd in
Bunches and liquid ; and afterwards Marmelade is made of
them, with Jellies of everal forts. Moreover, Syrups and Li-
quors are prepar'd with all thee forts of Fruit.
This is aloa proper time for the Preerving ofOrange-flowers :
dry, and for the making of Conerves, Pates and Marmelade
of them; which may be erviceable during the rest of the Year;
becaue now there is the greatet plenty of thee Flowers.
Conerves and Syrup of Roes are likewife made; o that
this is one of the Months, in which the most Pains is to be ta
ken, and that affords the greatet Variety of Fruits and Flow
ers ar once.: : -- ar i od. : , .. ..
& - - - : - . , ,
er ; c' ' , : , i July. . . . . . . .
- ' , :.: ...: ,:: - , e : n; , ,, , , v
The Fruits of the former Month till take up the greater
part of this, and the Preerving of them is continu'd, after
the above-mentioned Ways. This is the chief time for wet and
dry Cherries, as alo for th Jellies and Marmelades of Currans :
and Rasberries, ; : : : :
In the beginning of the Month, white Walnuts are preerv'd,
either liquid or dry, to be kept during the whole Year, and a
little afterwards ripe Apricocks, of which Compotes and Pastes
are firt made: Others are par'd in order to be preerv'd with
half Sugar, or in Ears, and Marmelade is made of them, which
is us'd in many Things, out of the Seaon, particularly, for dry-
ing the Paste ; for Apricock-patils; or the Royal March-pane.
Ar the fame time, the Syrup and Ratafiaz of Apricocks are s
uually prepar'd. : c' ::::
Pearsnow begin toprovideEmployment for theConfectioner,
and to afford an agreeable Variety : So that Compotes may be
made of them, and Mufcadine-pears may be iced, to the num
ber of fix or feven in Cluters, as they are ; whilft the Blan
quets are preerv'd, and fome few other forts dried.
There are alo Plums and Grapes in the end of the Month,
and altho' the latter are fine enough then to appear in their na
rural Colour ; yet they are fometimes iced with powder'd Su :
gar. The ame thing is done with Plums; befides that Pates
-* - aTE
< *
AVen, Instructions for Confectioners. 13
are already made of them, and they may be put into Compotes,
or into half-Sugar, to be dried.
August.
Much more Pains may be taken in this Month, in ordering
thee latter Fruits, becaue they are ucceively renew'd, by
other kinds that are more proper for Preerving. Thus Orange
plums and Amber-plums, thoe of Ile-verd and others are pre
erv'd dry to be kept : Pates and Marmelades are made of
them, and they are till iced, and put into Compotes.
The ame thing is done with the Pears in their Seafon, more
epecially the Rouffelet, or Rufferin, and ome others, that are of
an exquiite tafte. -

There are alo certain Plums, proper for drying, in order to


make Prunes, as occaion ferves.
Figs are preerv'd and dried in the fame Month, and they
may be iced with Powder-ugar, as well as Grapes: Syrup of
Mulberries is likewie prepar'd, and ome think fit to preferve
them : Apples are put into Compotes, and preerv'd after ome
* other manners.
About the end of the Month, Girkins or mall Cucumbers,
Samphire, Purlain and other Herbs are pickled with Vinegar
and Salt, for the Winter-fallets.

September.
Plums continue till, for a confiderable time, and Apples and
Pears much longer: So that new Compotes, Pates and Marme
lades may be made of them, and the bet ought to be chofen for
* that purpoe; fuch as the Bon-chretien, the Bergamot, and the
Summer-Certoe, among the Pears: This lat is alo preerv'd
drv.
'Facha, which continue for a long while, likewife furnih
Matter for Pates, Compotes and Marmelade, and they may be
order'd fo as to make dry Sweet-meats.
Moreover, Bell-grapes are then preerv'd liquid, and Pastes,
Jellies and Compotes are made of them. Mufcadine-grapes are
order'd in the fame manner, and ferve to make a very delicious
fort of Ratafiaz. -

Barberries, which are generally ripe at the fame time, are


proper for Conerves,
- V Osto
-

14 New Instructions for Confectioners.


O&tober.

In this Month and the following, you have other forts of


Apples and Pears, for all the above-mentioned Ufes, and alo
for Jellies, if you hall think fit to prepare them.
But this is the chief time, for making the Pates, Jellies and
Marmelade of Quinces, as alo Comfits with Must or weet
Wine and others, which nevertheles only fall under the ma
nagement of the Country People. . .
The Officers and Butlers are otherwie employd in this Sea
fon, that is to ay, in gathering the Fruits, that ought to be in
their Cutody, which requires a more than ordinary Skill and
Precaution.

November and December.


Foramuch as the Fruits of the Earth now ceae, recoure
mut be had to the Proviions that have been made during the
preceding Months; aswell with repet to dry and wet Sweet
meats, as to Jellies and Marmelades, which may be dried, in
order to make Pates that are A greater quantity of
roated Apples and Pears are likewife prepar'd, from time to
time, with ome Compotes of Chenuts, which may alo be iced
and dried.
Lastly, The affistance of Oranges and Lemmons, which are
brought over at this time, is confiderable, more epecially China
Oranges ; but the others are not preerv'd till the following
Months,

- During the whole rear.


Beides all thee forts of Sweet-meats,that depend on the Sea
fon of every particular kind of Fruit, there are divers Sugar
works and others, that may be prepar'd throughout all the
Year : Such are feveral forts of Almonds, Biskets, March
panes, Meringues, and Patils ; as alo, the Caramel, Sultans,
Moes, candy'd Comfits, and fome others, which with the raw
Fruits, ferve at all times, for the better filling up of a Defert,
more epecially in Winter, and upon other Occaions, when
- preerved Fruits are wanting. r - - - -

/- Befides
New Instructions for Confectioners. - I5
Beides thee Employments, the Confetioners and other Of.
ficers, ought to be diligent in keeping their Sweet-meats in good
order ; and to that purpoe, it is requiite from time to time,
to inpect thoe that are liquid, to fee whether they are not
grown four or muty, and to remedy fuch Accidents ; as alo to
change the Papers of thoe that are in the Boxes; and to take
care that they be not laid up in any Place that is too moit; ob
ferving_many other Precautions which their own Dicretion,
may ufficiently fuggest to them. - /

Thoe Officers that are entrusted with the management of


the raw Fruits, ought in like manner to apply themelves to
that purpoe ; and thus there is no time, but what may be ta
ken up, in fome of thee Employments; if to them be added,
what is requiite for the preparing of the Sallers, drefing of De
ferts, and performing the other Duties incumbent on fuch Offi
cers, epecially in Noble-mens Houes. . .
In the Confetioner's Apartment, instead of fome part of the
r
latter Funtions, they may employd to very good purpoe, in
the making of Sugar-plums ; but it would be needles to hew
the manner of carrying on that Work ; becaue it depends up
on an habitual Pratice, that is not exercied in an Office, nor
in the Houfesofprivate Perons, where this Book may give uffi
cient Dretions formanaging all the other Concerns: Therefore,
the Utenfils proper for that Bufines, are not explain'd among
the others in the So that all this Taekle is
left to thoe who are Confetioners by Trade; and if any Per
fons are defirous to be of that Number, the Apprenticehip thar
, ought to be ferv'd, well fupply the defet of our Silence as to
thee Matters. "
Let us now proceed to hew the best Method of managing all
the rest, and begin with the Fruits, that are to be preerv'd dry
or liquid, almost according to the natural Order of their Sea
fons: Afterwards, the fame Order hall be oberv'd in treating
of the Compotes, Marmelades and Pates, which we have
thought fit to decribe all together under their repetive Arti
cles. Lastly, a particular Account hall be given of the Sugar
works and others, that may be made in any Seafon of the Year;
comprehending in general, every Thing that relates to the Art
of preerving of Sweet-meats with Sugar; and even dicover
ing the choicet Secrets of the Confetioner's Trade: Asit appears
from the Contents of the Chapters, and the general Table of
the principal Matters. , -
V 2. C H a r.
16 New Instruions for Confeioners.

C H A P. IV.

Of green Apricocks.
TH. first Fruits that preent themelves to be preerv'd, after
green Gooe berries, which do not properly belong to this
Place, are green Apricocks : To that purpoe, they are uually
taken, before their Stones begin to grow. hard, and they are
preerv'd with their Skin; as alo others pared, which appear
much more fine and clear. Both thee Ways may be perform'd
according to the following Method.
How to prepare and boil green Apricocks.
Thoe Apricocks that are deign'd to be preerv'd with their
Skin, ought firt to be well clear'd from the foft Hair, or Down
with which they are cover'd, and this may be done by the
means of a good Lye, in which they are to to be calded after
the fame manner as green Almonds. To that purpoe, let ome
Water with new Ahes be pour'd into a large and fet over
the Fire, cumming off all the Coals that rife on the top: When
this Lye has boil'd for fome time, and you perceive by the Tafte,
that it is become weet and oily, remove it from the Fire, and
having fer it by for a while, take all the clear Liquor: Then
fet it over the Fire again, and as oon as it begins to boil, put
three or four Apricocks into it, oberving whether they be well
cleans'd, by that means: If the Experiment ucceeds, the ret
may be thrown in, but care mut be taken to keep them from
boiling, by tirring them about continually with the Handle of
the Skimmer. The Apricocks being thus ufficiently calded,
mut be taken out, tos'd a little in a Cloth, and wah'd in fair
Water: Afterwards, you mut run them thro' the middle with a
Knitting-needle, and throw them asthey are o orderd, into other
freh Water: To caue them to recover their green Colour, the
Wateristo be changdagain, and they must be boil'd over a quick
Fire; taking out fome of them from time to time, and pricking
them with a Pin: If they tick to the Pin, 'tis a fign that they
are not done enough; but as foon as they flip off from it, they
mut be taken away and carefully cool'd, by steeping them in
cold Water. -

Ano
Mew Instructions for Confectioners. 17

Anaher Way of preparing green Apricocks.


Having provided green Apricocks, before their Stones are
grown hard, let two Handfuls of Salt, more or les, according
to the quantity of your Apricocks, be pounded in a Mortar to
a very fine Powder: Then let the Apricocks be put into a Nap
kin, with the Salt, and let all be well tirr'd about, from one
end to the other ; prinkling them with a little Vinegar. As
foon as you perceive, that they are clear'd from the Mos or
Down, rub them a little with your Hands to get off the Salt;
wah them in fair Water, and cald them immediately. As foon
as they are calded (which may be known, by pricking them
with a Pin, or when they eaily receive an impreion from the
Finger) let them be thrown into freh Water. In the mean
take as much clarified Sugar, as will be requifite, and
fet it in a Pan over the Fire: When the Sugar begins to boil,
put in your Apricocks, after having drain'd them from the
Water, and tew them overagentle Fire, till they begin to grow
green: When they are well impregnated with the Sugar, let
them be laid on a Grate, to be dryed, and afterwards fet in
order upon Slates; trewing them lightly with powder'd Sugar,
put into a Napkin: Then being dried for fometime in the Stove,
they must be taken off from the Slates, and put into Sieves to
be more thoroughly dried : Atlat, they are to be laid up dry in
Boxes, and kept for Ue. This fort of Fruit is very good,
when Preferv'd. |

To preferve green Apricocks.


Thee Apricocks must be first order'd with thin Sugar, that
is to ay, for every two Ladlesful of clarified Sugar, one of
Water is to be allow'd, and all made luke-warm together.
Having put your Apricocks well drain'd, into an earthen Pan,
pour this upon them, and let them be foak'd in it till the
next Day: Then ferting all over the Fire, in a Copper-pan,
caue them to Simper, tirring them about gently from time to
time. Afterwards, they mut be turn'd again into the earthen,
Pan, or even left in the Co : and may be fo order'd at
any other time. The next day, let the Apricocks be drain'd on
a Cullander, and give the Syrup feven or eight Boilings ; ad
ding a little more Sugar; then throw in your Fruit, and let all
V 3 fimper
18 New Instruions for Confectioners.
fimper together. The fame thing is to be re-iterated for four or
five Days; giving your Syrup fifteen, fixteen, or twenty feveral
Boilings; and always augmenting it with a little Sugar, by rea
fon of its diminution, and to the end that the Fruit may be e
qually foak'd therein: Afterwards, the Apricocks mut be put
into the Syrup, and made to fimper at every time. To bring
them to perfetion, boil your Syrup tillit becomes pearled, ad
ding alo fome other Sugar likewie Pearled, and having turn'd
in the Fruit, let all have a coverd Boiling: Then remove the
Pan from the Fire, and take off the Scum : As foon as the A
pricocks are cool'd, let them be drain'din a Cullander and laid
upon Slatesor Boards, in order to be dried in the Stove. The
next Morning, they may be turn'd, if it be requifite, and in
the Evening, hut up in Boxes, or little Trunks, with Paper
between every Row.
If you would have green Apricocks preerv'd liquid, put
them into a Pot, with their Syrup, when the whole Work is fi
nih'd; and they may bedried at any time, as occafion requires.
To that purpoe, you need only heat Water over the Fire, and
fet your Pot of Apricocks into it, as it were in Balneo Marie,
to the end that, by the heat of the Water, which is to boil, the
Syrup may become liquid again, as if it were newly made, and
by that means, the Apricocks may be taken out to be dried in
the Stove, as before, after they have been drain'd. But this is
uually done at once, becaue they are apt to grow greafy, and
on the contrary, they keep very well dry. *

Green Apricocks peeled.


Thee Apricocks after they have been neatly peeld, must,be
likewie pierc'd thro' the middle and thrown into fair Water:
They ought alotoboilinother Water, but when they rife on the
top, ; mut bethrust down, and left to cool in their own Li
quor. Afterwards, being fet on the Fire again, to recover their
green Colour, they mut be boil'd till they lip off from the
# and put into Sugar in the fame manner as the former, as
well to be kept dry as liquid.
For the compotes, Pastes and Marmelades of green Apricocks,
See thoe Articles, which are hereafter decrib'd together, for
every kind of Fruit. -

C H A P.
)
-

AVen Instructions for Confectioners. 19

C H A P. V.

|
!# AL
Of zipe Apricocks.
there is a confiderable pace of Time, between the
Seaons in which green and ripe Apricocks are preerv'd;
nevertheles, wehall here continue the decription of them to fol
low the Order of the Matter ; having already accounted for
what relates to the Lit of the Fruits according to their Seaons.
in the third Chapter ; to which the Reader is referr'd.

Pared Apricocks.
After having neatly pard and ston'd the Apricocks, flirting
them on one Side, they are to be calded in Water, almot boil
ing hot : As the Apricocks rife on the top, take them up with
the Skimmer, and put them into fair Waterto cool; if they are
fomewhat oft : If they are otherwife, lip them into the Pan,
again, continuing fo to do, till the end ; except, when the Wa
ter being ready to boil, cats them altogether on the top; then
let them all be taken out and cool'd. Afterwards, you are to
pick out thoe that are foftet, thoe that are indifferent oft,
and thoe that are leaft o: The firt fort must be immediately
put into Sugar, that has had three or four Boilings; the Second
into Sugar, as it comes from the Straining-bag ; and for the
hardet, the Sugar mut be boil'd again for a while, fetting it
over the Fire, and adding a little Water. When the Apricocks
are all equally entire and oft,they must be put into clarified Sugar,
and boil'd, till no Scum or Froth aries any longer, which mut
be always carefully taken off. The thus left in
the Sugar, till the next Day, are to be drain'd ; whilt the Sy
rup is boil'd till it has attain'd to its mooth Quality, augment
ing it with Sugar: Then turn the Apricocks into the Pan, and
having given them a Boiling, ler them be fet by. On the Day
following, let them be drain'd, and let the Syrup be boil'd tillit
becomes Pearled: Afterwards, let them be fliptinto the Pan a
gain, adding ome Sugar likewie Pearled, and having given
them a coverd Boiling, let them be fet into the Stove, till the
next Morning; when they are to be taken our, and put into
Pots, in order to be dried, or to be eaten in the fame condition,
at pleaure. V 4 To
2o New Instructions for Confectioners.
To dry your Apricocks at all times, fet a Copper-pan, with
Water over the Fire, and the Pot or earthen Pan containing
the Fruit, in the middle of the fame Pan, which ought, upon
that account, to be of a proportionable fize : Let the Water
boil about half an Hour ; by which means, the Apricocks will
be heated, and you'll have the liberty to take them our, to be
drain'd. Then they may be dres'd upon the Slates or Boards,
in order to be fet into the Stove, after they have been trew'd
with Sugar. -

N. B. Forget not, in peeling or turning your Apricocks at


firt, to put them into fair Water. -

Apricocks preferv'd in Half-Sugar.


Let four Pounds of Sugar be made Feathered; let four Pounds
of Apricocks be put into it ; and let all be boil'd a little, to
caue them to cat their Juice: Then, having fet them by to
cool, bring them to the Fire again, and let them boil, till no
Scum appear any longer: Having remov'd the Pan, let them
be left in the Syrup, till the next Day; when they may be
drain'd in a Cullander; whilt the Syrup is boil'd, till it become
Pearled; at which intant it mut be pour'd into an earthen
Pan, and the Apricocks mut be flipt into it : Afterwards, they
must be cummd and fet into the Stove, to be thoroughly
foakd: On the Day following, they are to be drain'd and
dres'd upon the Slates, in order to be dried in the Stove, trew'd
with Sugar. Otherwife, they may be kept liquid, till another
time, and afterwards dried as the former.

, Apricocks in Ears.
Apricocks that have been order'd according to either of thee
Ways, may be dres'd in Ears;, and to that purpoe, it is only
scquiite, to turn one of the Halves, without loofening it alto
the from the other; or to joyn the two Halves together, fo as
they may mutually touch one another at both ends, one on one
fide and the other on the other. -

'Tis oblervable, That ripe Apricocks are apt to grow grea


fie, as well as the green ones; fo that they cannot be kept long
iidud ; becau, e there is no to prevent this Inconveniency:
Thei, they requi, e a *
great deal more pains in drying, and are
lesarcebietoa ePalare. Therefore in regard that they
... . . . . .,: . *. -
-------- h

New Instructions for Confe#ioners. 21


best dry, it is most expedient to order them fo at firt; or ele
the Confetioner or Officer will be oblig'd to alter their Pro
perty, making ue of them for March-panes, or other forts of
Works.
For the Compotes, Marmelades and Pates of Apricocks, fee
the particular Chapters, to which thee Articles belong, as well
as for thoe of all the other forts of Fruits, which hall not be
mention'd any longer for the future; in regard, that recoure
may be had to the Table or Index of the principal Marrers,
, fhewing the Page where thoe Matters are handled ar
arge.

C H A P. VI. *

Of Green Almonds.
GR Almonds follow the green Apricocks, as well with
repet to the Seaon, as to the manner of Preerving:
However, we hall here explain the feveral Ways of ordering
them, at large; becaue there are certain particular Circum
stances to be oberved, that were not mention'd in the preceding
Articles.

How to cleanfe, and boil green Almonds.


Let Water, with new Ahes be fet over the Fire in a Pan,
ind let the Coals that rife on the top be fcummd off; when,
after having boil'd for fome time, you perceive it to be weet
ind lippery, as a good Lye ought to be, remove the Pan, and
et it by for a while, in order to ger the clear Liquor. Then
ring it to the Fire again, and when the Lye begins to boil,
hrow in three or four Almonds; oberving, whether the Flocks
ir Husks that cover them, be well clear'd: If not, it is a fign,
hat the Lye is not good, and ome other mut be made, or that
nuft be recruited with new Ahes; otherwie the Almonds
would only open and flit, and not be cleans'd. On the contra
y, if the Husks flip off well, the ret of the Almonds may be
urn'd into this Lye, but you mut hinder their boiling, by con
nually ftirring them abour, with the Handle of the Skimmer.
|- As
-

22 New Instructions for Confeioners. -


As foon as it appears, that the Husks are eaily rubb'd of, take -
them out, and hake them a little in a Cloth, holding it at boh ''
ends: Afterwards, one of the ends of the Cloth being opend,
let your Almonds fall into a Pan full of fair Water. Thus ha.
ving caus'd them to be well wah'd, pierce them thro' the mid- :
dle, with a Knitting-needle, or ome other Intrument of the
like nature; and as they are done, throw them into other freh
Water.
This Way of preparing and cleanfing Almonds, is more cer.
rain, than to give them fome Boilings in the Lye, before they
are taken out, or to put them into it with the Ahes ; for it is
to be feared, let that hould caue them to open, if care be not .
taken to prevent fuch Accidents. The fame Inconveniency of
ten happens, if according to any Method that is oberv'd, all
the Fruit hould be imprudently thrown into this Lye, without
making the above-mentioned Tryal, at the hazard of two or
three Almonds, to know, whether it be not too hot, or whe-
ther it be in its due Condition.
To bring the Almonds again to their green Colour, it is re-
quiite, that the fair chang'd, and that they beboild
in it, over a quick Fire: They may alo be calded or stew'd
by degrees, without boiling ; to which purpoe, having put the
Almonds into a Pan with Water, a Dih of almot the fame
breadth is to be thrut down into it, which may hinder them
from rifing on the top, and conequently from turning black, and
when the Liquor is ready to boil, om cold Water mut be
pour'd in by degrees. In following either of thee Ways, it *
may be known, that the Almonds are uficiently prepard, when
they flip off from the Pin; at which instant, they ought to be s
from the Fire, and fet by to cool.
To put Almonds into Sugar.
As to this it is only requifite, to oberve the Dire-
ctions already given for Apricocks. Thus for every two Ladles
ful of clarified Sugar, take one of Water, till you have a uffi
cient quantity for the foaking of your Almonds, or omewhat
more ; becaue it will afterwards ferve to augment the *n

in other Boilings or for fome other Ufes. Let the Sugar and *

Water be heated as hot, as you can well endure to hold your


Finger in it, and pour it upon the Almonds in an earthen Pan,
leaving them thus till the next Day; when all mut be putinto
a Copper-pan fet over the Fire, and heated, till almot * to .
New Instractions for Confectioners. 23
boil: Then they are to be turn'd again into the earthen Pans, or
eft in the Copper-pan, and the next_Day, the Almonds mut
be drain'd in a & ; giving the Syrup even or eight Boil
ings, and augmenting its quantity, with a little Sugar: Some
ime after, throw in your Fruit, and let all fimper together. The
amething is to be dne for four or five Days ucceiiively, cau
fing the Syrup to have fome other Boilings; which mut be still
encreas'd with Sugar, every time, to the end, that the Fruit
may always be equally foak'd. When you would have the Work
finih'd, let the Syrup be boil'd, till it has attain'd to its Pearled
Quality; adding, if it be requifire, ome other Sugar Pearled
inlike manner: So as the Fruit may be convenient } flipt into
the Pan, and have a cover'd Boiling. Afterwards, having re
mov'd it from the Fire, take off the Scum, on the top; and, as
foon as the Almonds are cool'd, lay them a draining in a Cul
lander; in order to be dres'd upon Slates or Boards, and dried
in the Stove. Thee Almonds are not uually trew'd with Su
gar, no more than green Apricocks, becaue they appear finer
intheir natural Colour, and are very eaily dried. However,
the Day following, they must be turn'd on the other fide, if it
be needful, and put into Boxes, when you perceive them to be
very firm and dry. - -

Green Almonds may alo be preerved liquid, as well as Apri


cocks, either to be eaten in that manner, or to be dried, as oc
cafion requires, and to that purpoe recoure may be had to the
Directionsbefore laid down, Pag. 17 and 18. forgreen Apricocks.

C H A P. VII.
Several other Ways of Preferving Almonds.
Efides new raw Almonds that are erv'd up to Table, when
' ripe, there are feveral Ways of Drying them, which may
be very ferviceable at thoe times, when there is no great va
fiety of Fruits or Sweet-meats.

- Almonds orderd la Siamoie.


Having dried and brought Almonds to a reddih Colour in the
Byen, ler them be thrown into Sugar, boil'd till it becomes
Pearled;
24 New Instructions for Confectioners.
Pearled ; stirring them about well in the Pan, without eting
|
it over the Fire: Then they mut be laid in order upon a Grate
and put into the Stove, if you would have them ferv'd up
ter that manner. Otherwife, being raken out of the Pan, they
may be roll'd one by one, in powder'd Sugar or Sedan Nom.
parel and continually stirr'd about, to the end that they maybe .
cover'd, on all fides, with the Sugar or with the Nomparel
Afterwards they must be taken out, and fet into the Stove upon :
Papers. *:|
*
;
Blown Almonds. :

After having calded and blanch'd your Almonds, let them


be stirr'd about in the White of an Egg: Then let them be put :
into powder'd Sugar, and well roll'd in it. Having thus icd i
them over once, if you perceive that they are not done enough, ,
dip them again into the White of an Egg, and afterwards into
powder'd Sugar: Atlast, they may be laid upon a Sheet of Pa
per, and bak din an Oven, with a gentle Fire. :
.
Iced Almonds. :

Take blanched Almonds, and put them into an Ice that is


ready prepared, with the White of an Egg, powder'd Sugar, i
Orange or Lemmon-flowers and Sevil-orange: Let thembe :
well roll'd in this Compound, o as to be neatly iced, and af- i
terwards dres'd on a Sheet of Paper, in order to be bak'd in .
the Campain-oven,
on the top. with a gentle Fire, as well underneath, as "
- - g-

Several forts of crip Almonds.


Crip Almonds of a gray Colour.
Let a Pound of Loaf or Powder-ugar be melted, with a
little Water, and ler a Pound of Almonds be boil'd in it, til
they crackle: Then remove the Pan from the Fire, and stir al
about inceantly with the Spatula. If any Sugar be left, it
mut be heated again over the Fire, to the end that it may en
tirely tick to the Almonds ; continuing to tir them, witho ,
intermiion, till the Work be finih'd. Thus the Almonds will i
ecome criit, and of a gray Colour, i
- 7- - - R:
AVenw Instruitions for Confioner. 25

Red crip Almonds.


To give your Almonds a red Colour; caue three quarters of
a Pound of Sugar to be diffolv'd with a little Water, throw in
the Almonds, and boil them as before, till they crackle ; ra
ting careto tir them from time to time, that they may not tick to
the Pan. Then remove them from the Fire, and keep stirring
them continually, till they have taken up all the Sugar, without
ferting them any longer over the Fire. Afterwards, havin
fifted them, the Sugar that runs thro' the Sieve, mut be pur
again into the fame Pan, with another quarter of a Pound of
Sugar, and a little Water, to diolve the whole Mas. The
Sugar being boil'd till it become crack'd, add as much pre
pared Cocheneal, as will be requiite to give it a fine Colur,
and let it boil again over the Fire, to caue it to return to its
track'd Quality; by reaon that the Cocheneal brings it down
from that degree of boiling. At that very intant tofs in your
Almonds, and at the fame time take them off from the Fire ;
tirring them, without intermiion, as at firt, till they become
If you are minded to make a greater quantity of this fort of
rip Almonds at once; it will only be requiite to augment that
f the Sugar proportionably, that is to ay, allowing a Pound
f one, for every Pound of the other.
As for the prepared Cocheneal; it is only the Liquor in which
hat Grain has been boil'd, with Allum and Cream of Tartar.
It is generally us'd for every thing that is to be brought to a fine
ed Colour, particularly Blanc-mangers, Creams, Jellies, Mar
nelades, Pates, &c. - -

White crip Almonds.


Crip Almonds are alo made white; to which purpoe, after
laving fcalded and blanch'd them, they mut be thrown into
jugar boil'd till it become crack'd : Then let all have a Walm
ir two together, and for the ret, let the Almonds be orderd in
he fame manner as before; that is to ay, tirr'd and turn'd
ontinually, to the end that the Sugar may tick cloe to them,
"#"
it you nave at hand a
a Pearling-pot
Pearli proper for
for SSugar-plums,
l
rany other Vestel of the like nature, fose boil'd that
1s
26 New Instruions for Confectioners.
is Pearled, may alo be pour'd into it, and dropt by degres
upon the Almonds; cauing the Pot to be held by a Servant, til
they are thoroughly foak'd and cover'd over with it.
Crip Almonds of a Gold-colour.
There is another Way of Preparing crip Almonds uually :
pratis'd by Cooks, which may be performd thus: When the
Almondsare blanch'd, drain'd and roll'din powder'd Sugar,le
them be thrown into a Frying-pan, in which Oil has beh
heated: After having fried them in this manner, stirring them
about, till they have acquir'd a fine Gold-colour, they must be:
fpeedily taken out with the Skimmer, in order to be dres'd in
different Heaps. Some call thee Fried Languedoc-almonds, and
they are us'd for the Garnihing of Potages of Almond-milk, or
other Mees of the like nature.

Pistachoes in Sur-tout.
Take what quantity you pleae of Pitachoes, clear them,
from their Shells, and caue them to be made crip, which may
be done thus: When the Sugar is boil'd till it become Feather-
ed, throw in your Pitachoes, and when they have continud a :
little while on the Fire, take them off, tirring them well with the
Spatula, till they are all coverd, but they mut not be fet again
over the Fire. Afterwards, having beat up the White of an
Egg with a Spoon, add a little Orange-flower-water, and
dip the Piftachoes into it: Then let them be taken out, and
f in Powder-ugar, that is very dry. At lat, being laid in
order upon white Paper, they mut be gently bak'd in a Cam-:
pain-oven, with a little Fire underneath, and more on the top:
As oonasthey are ufficiently bak'd, and brought to a good Co
WC,
: they may be taken out of the Oven, and dried in the *a

C H A P.
New Instrutions for Confectioners. 27

C H A p. VIII.
Of Preferv'd Cherries, as well dry as liquid.
Herries are the firt red Fruits that preent themelves to bs
preerv'd, at leaft thoe that appear early. Thee forward
nesare uually put into Sugar with their Stones ; becaue they
lave as yet attain'd to little maturity, and ferve only as a No
relty: But it will be no difficult matter to take meaures in or
lering all forts of Cherries, according to the following Diret
0IIS,

Cherries in Ears.

Take fair Cherries, that are stoned, put them into BlownSu
gar, and give them fifteen cover'd Boilings: Then having fer
them by, till the next let them be drain'd in a Cullander,
and let your Syrup boil tillit be Pearled: Afterwards, throw in
your Fruit, and let them have feven or eight coverd Boilings;
taking care that they be well feumm'd, even after the Pan is re
mov'd from the Fire. When the Cherries are cool'd, take them
out of their Syrup, to be dried in the Stove upon Slates, and
trew'd with Sugar. They are call'd Cherries in Ears, by rea
on of the manner of drefing them; which isto open and pread
hem, joyning two together, fo as their Skins may remain on
he out-fide and the Pulp on the infide: Then another Cherry
the fame nature is to beadded on eachfide, the Pulpof which
islaid upon the Skin of the others.

Cherries preerv'd in half Loaf fugar.


After having ftoned your Cherries, give them five or fix Boii
ngs in Pearled Sugar, and then take off the Pan from the Fire.
On the next Day, they are to be drain'd, whilt the Syrup is
boil'd Smooth, and put into it: Then they ought to have twen
y Boilings, as alo to be well Scumm'd and to lye in the Stove,
during the whole Night. Afterwards, they mut be drain'd in
a Cullander, and dres'd upon the Slates, to be dried in the fame
Stove. One Pound and half of Sugar is ufficient at firt for
fix Pounds of Fruit. - - -- h
Cher
28 New Instruions for C77F

Cherries in half Powder-fgar.


Having provided four Pounds of toned Cherries, with one
Pound of Powder fugar, let all boil together over the Fire; ta
king care to tirr the Fruit continually, till they have imbib'd
the Sugar; which may be known, by touching them, when
they are very oft and tender. Then being fet by till
the next Day, they may be drain'd; whilt the Syrup is boil'd,
fmooth : Let the be thrown into it, and give them fif:
teen or twenty Boilings, always taking care, that they be well
fcumm'd: Afterwards, they must be remov'd from the Fire,
and laid in earthen Pans, to continue in the Stove all Night:
On the next Day, they are to be drain'd, dres'd upon Sieves,
and fet into the Stove again, after they have been trew'd with
fine Sugar.
!

Cherries preferv'd liquid.


Let Sugar be boil'd till it be Blown, and let the Cherries be
flipt into it, having cut off part of the Stalks. They ought to
have ten or twelve coverd Boilings, before they are fet by till
the next Day: Then they mut be drain'd, and put into the
Sugar again, when boil'd, till it become Pearled, augmenting
it with fome other Sugar likewife Pearled: At lat, you may addi
fome Syrup of Currans of the fame Quality, to give them a
finer Colour, and put them into Pots, to be kept for Ue.
:

Another Way. :

The Cherries may be orderd as the former, or as thoe that:


are preerv'd dry, except that a greater quantity of Sugar is to
be added, and in finihing the Work, they mut have fome co
ver'd Boilings, after having brought the Sugar to the greater,
Pearled Quality. When they are cool'd, they may be put into
Pots, and if you would have them tintur'd with Straw-berries,
fome of that Fruit mut be put amongt your Cherries, as they ,
are preerving. -

chiniu ::
Mew Instrufions for C Foner. 29

Cherries preferv'd dry, with Straw-berries.


You are to provide Cherries preerv'd dry, out of which the
Stones have been already taken ; fubtituting in their room, as
many Straw-berries likewie dry: Then let all be dried
in the Stove, after they have been trew'd with Sugar, as well in
the drefing, as the turning of them.
Cherries in Bunches.

Take fair Cherries, that are of an equal bignes, and tye


them up, with Thread, into little Bunches: Then put them into
Blown Sugar of the fame Weight, and give them about twenty
Boilings. Afterwards, let them be taken off from the Fire, and
fcumm'd, and as foon as they are cool'd, put them into the
Stove as they lye in their Pan, till the next Day; when they
may be conveniently dried upon Slates.
Cherries booted, la Royale.
Let Kentih Cherries, with hort Stalks, or others of the like
nature, be thrown into Sugar, boil'd till it become Pearled. Some
only caue it to fimper, tirring the Fruit from time to time, and
the next Day, having caus'd the Syrup to be Pearled, put the
Cherries therein, adding other Sugar likewife Pearled. Before
they are fet into the Stove, other # preerv'd in Ears are
alo provided, which mut be laid upon them cros-wife, to the
number, of three, four, or fix, and afterwards fet into the Stove.
Thee are commonly called Booted Cherries. The Cherries that
re left with the Stalks, may alo be order'd altogether after
the fame manner, as the others preerved in Ears, and the fame
Method may be follow'd for the ret.
Cherries preerv'd liquid, after the manner of the City of
Tours.

Having provided five Pounds of Cherries, with three Pounds


|
of Feathered Sugar, throw your Fruit intoit, give them fifteen
|
Boilings, and afterwards add two other Pounds of Sugar like
|
|
wife Feathered. The whole Work ought to be finih'd at once,
| without removing the Pan from the cauing the Fruit to
3o New Instructions for Confectioners.
be boil'd in the Syrup, till it has attain'd to its Pearled Quality.
Cherries are preerv'd after this manner, to very good purpoe,
as alo Straw-berries. If you would impregnate the latter, with
the Syrup of the Cherries, it mut not boil with the Fruit; nei
ther the one, nor the other; but this Syrup mut be pour'd upon
them, when they are quite done, and taken away from the Fire.
Currans may alo be orderd after the fame manner.

To make a Cake, or Paste of Cherries.


After having ton'd your Cherries, ler them boil in a Pan, till
you perceive, that they have cat their Juice: Then fet them in
order in a Sieve, and let them be well drain'd: Afterwards, you
mut pound them in a Mortar, and fet them on the Fire again,
to be thoroughly dried. In the mean time, having boil'd the Su
gar, till it be Crack'd, pour it upon this dried | al
lowing a Pound of Sugar for every Pound of Pate: Let all be
well temper'd together fo as they may fimper a little over the
Fire ; and let them be continually tirr'd. A little while after,
they may be dres'd upon the Slates, with a Spoon, and fet into
the Stove. If you are of opinion, that the Pate has not as yet
acquird a good Colour, a few Currans may be intermixt with
it, as it is drying ; having firt caus'd thoe Currans to cat their
Juice, and then train'd them thro' a Sieve.

Other Ways of Preferving and Ordering Cherries. ,


For Compotes, Conerves and Marmelades of Cherries, re
coure may be had to thoe Articles, relating to all forts of Fruits,
which are hereafter explain'd.
. As for Cherry-water, we hall only here oberve, That
all the Juice of Cherries extrated, either in making Cakes,
Marmelades, Conerves, or other Sweet-meats, may ferve for
the preparing of Ratafiaz, o that nothing will be loft, or thrown
away as ufeles.
The Syrup of Cherries, that have been preerv'd dry, may :
alo fupply the place of Sugar; at leaft, if you have no mind to
keep it, for the diverifying of March-panes or other Comfits of
the like Nature; or to make ue of it, in the preerving of other
forts of Fruit. It may likewie be us'd to very good purpoe,
in the Jelly of Cherries ; as to which Particular, it
will only be requiite to oberve the Directions iera laid
- -
Own,
Mew Instructions for Confectioners. ;1
down, for the different Jellies of Fruits, particularly for the qua
king Jelly of Currans. -

As for Cherries that are ferv'd up to Table in their natural


Condition, there is a particular Way of embellihing them, here
fter explain'd in the 3oth Chapter, under the Article of Cara
mel. -

C H A P. IX.,
Of Strawberries and Rasberries.
STrawber and Rasberries are very ferviceable in Entertain
ments, and, when full ripe, afford Delight to three Senes,
viz. thoe of Seeing, Smelling and Tafting: They have a vi
nous Tafte, and ferve to corroborate the Heart, Stomack and
Brain, after the fame manner as vinous Liquors. Thee good
Qualities caue them to be fo much eteem'd in their natural
Condition, that they are feldom preerv'd, more epecially Straw
berries : They are uually eaten, foak'd in Water or Wine,
and trew'd with Sugar: However they may be iced, as Cher
| asries,wellCurrans and Rasberries; and thee lat may be preerv'd
dry as liquid. |

Rauberries preferv'd dry.


Having provided Rasberries that are not too ripe, let them be
pick'd and put into Sugar that has attain'd to its Blown Quali
ty; giving them a cover'd Boiling: Afterwards, being taken
off from the Fire, they mut be cumm'd, and flipt into an
earthen Pan, to continue in the Stove during twenty four Hours.
As great a quantity of Sugar is requiite as of Fruit, for exam
ple, about four Pounds of each. When they are cool'd, drain
them from their Syrup, and dres them as other Sweet-meats, in
order to be trew'd with Sugar, and dried in the Stove after the
uual manner.

| X2 - Raf:
32 New Instruitions for Confectioners.
Rauberries preferv'd liquid.
Take four Pounds of good Rasberries, and put them, when
pick'd, into three Pounds of Pearled Sugar. Then give them a
fmall Boiling lightly coverd, and ftir them from time to time:
Afterwards, let them be cool'd, drain'd and dry'd as Cherries,
bu no to fo great a degree,becaue they have not fo much Moi-
fture: The quantity of Pearled Sugar ought alo to be augmen- :
ted, to the end that it may be fufficient for the foaking of the
Fruit: But if the Rasberries are omewhat greenih or tart,
they mut not be pur at first into Sugar o boil'd, becaue they
would grow hard ; o that it is expedient to make a due choice
of them. Rasberries with thick Grains are not o fit for prefer
ving, as being full of Juice, which foon turns to Marmelade:
Thoe that have mall Grains, are mot proper for that purpoe,
in regard that their Subtance is more firm and compat: Raf
berries that grow in moit Places, are not fo good as thoe :
brought forth in a dry Soil; neither is fo much Sugar requifite
for the ordering of the larter fort; by reaon that Fruits grow
ing in marhy Grounds always diolve in Sugar.
other Ways of uing Strawberries and Rasberries.
For compotes of thee forts of Fruit, fee the Directions here
after given under that Article: Marmelades, Jellies and Pastes
are likewie made ofthem, which fhall be explain'd among thoe
of other Fruits. .

C H A P. X.

Of Goofeberries and Currans.


-

GO and Currans are uually preerv'd at the fame


time with Cherries and Strawberries, and green Gooe- ,
berries are the firt of all the Sweet-meats made in the Spring,
Among the different kinds of Currans, the common, which ri
pens foonet, is the mot proper for Preerving, as having more
Subtance, and being mot agreeable, as well to healthy
ons,
AVenw Instructions for Conf77. 33
fons, as to thoe that are fick, by reaon of their grateful Tart
nes. The larger Dutch Currans are likewife preferrable on that
account to the ordinary ones, which are very weet, and better
eaten raw, than when preerv'd, as being too full of Juice.
Thee Currans are generally ferv'd up to Table in iced Bunches,
and if defign'd for Preerving, ought to be taken early, before
they are grown ripe. The fame thing is done in ordering the
white Dutch Currans, which are likewie preerv'd in fingle
Stalks, in Bunches, or in Jelly, as well as the common white
Currans.
*

Green Gooeberries preferv'd liquid.


The Gooeberries mut be flit on one fide with a Pen-knife,
and all the mall Grains that are on the Infide mut be taken
our : Then they are to be put into very clear Water, and fet
over the Fire, which is to be kept moderate. As foon as they
rie on the top of the Water, they are to be remov'd, and fer
by in the fame Liquor: When they are cool'd, let them be put
into other freh Water, over a gentle Fire, till they recover their
green Colour, and become very oft. Afterwards, having cool'd
them again in fair Water, let them be welldrain'd, and put into
Sugar, pas'd thro' the Straining-bag: At the fame rime, give
them fourteen or fifteen Boilings, to the end that they may tho
roughly imbibe the Sugar, and leave them till the next Day:
Then, being drain'd, fer them he fliptinto the Syrup boil'd till
it become Pearled, and let them have four or five coverd Boil
ings. At lat, they may be put into Pots, and us'd as occaion
fhall require. - )

felly of green Gooeberries,


Your Gooeberries being prepard as before, boil an equal
Quantity of Sugar, till it be Throw in the Fruit, and
let all boil rogether; taking off the Scum, till they return to
the Pearled Condition. Then removing them from the Fire,
train them thro a Sieve into a Copper-pan, and at the fame
time, put the Jelly fo receiv'd into Pots in the fane manner, as
ther Jellies of that fort of Fruit. |- -

X, 3 --- -- , Red
34 New Instructions for Confectioners. -
Redcarrani. prostrva Limia. -

'The Currans being pick'd, ought to be putinto Pearled Su


gar, and to have a light cover'd Boiling ; Then they must be
f i, and brought to perfetion the next Day; to which
urpoe they are to bestraind thro a Sieve, whilt the Syrup is
to a Degree between Smooth and Pearled. Afterwards,
let the Fruit be fliptin, and let as much other Pearled Sugar be
added as is ufficient for the well foaking of them.They ought al
fo to have feveral cover'd Boilings,between Smooth and Pearled,
taking off the Scum, even after they have been remov'd from
the Fire, and ftirring them, from time to time, till they are cool'd
a little, lest they hould turn to a Jelly, a Latly, they must be
putinto Pots and cover'd for ome Days. . .. . .
- - : : ) V., , , -- . . "T : -
::
currani preerv'd in Bunches. . ::
|-

Take four Pounds of Currans tied ipin Bunches, and boil


your Sugar till it becomes Feathered: Then fet them in Order
in the Sugar, and let them have feveral coverd Boilings: They
must be peedily cumm'd,and not uffer'd toboillong; that is t
ay, only two or three feethings: Afterwards, let them be cum
med again, and fet into the Stove in the Copper-pan. On the
next Day, they may be cool'd and drain'd, dreifing them in Bun
ches of a convenient thicknes, in order to be well trew'd and
dried in the Stove. . .. . .
' .
--: - -

1 - - , - -- ' ,
jely of curran.
Take fix Pounds of Currans, and caue the like quantity of ;
Sugar to be brought to its Crack'd Quality: Throw in your
Currans, and let the Syrup boil to a Degree between Smooth
ind Pearled, and till the Scum ceaes to rife any longer : Then
let them belaid in a fine Sieve, withoutprefing them too much,
and only left in it, to bethoroughlydrain'd. Afterwards, having
e -. - & - -- - * -

iven the Jelly, a Boiling, let it be cumm'd, and put into feveral
f When it is pourd into the Pots, another thin Scum will
arife which mut be taken off, to render the Liquor clear, and
two or three Day after, it may be cover'd with Paper cut round,
to be kept for Ue.
A Jelly of the like nature may b made of Pomegranates,
- aS
r
| * *- New Instructions for Confectioners. 35
as alo of Barberries, or elle another fort of Curran-jelly, af
ter the following manner.

Quaking Jelly of Currans.


Having provided fix Pounds and a half of Currans, let as
much Juice be fqueez'd out of them, as is poible, and let the
Sugar be orderd, as before: Then train your Curran-juice
thro a fine Sieve, and pour it into the Sugar: Letall be lightly
boil'd together to a Degree between Smooth and Pearled, and
afterwards let the Jelly be conveniently dipoed of in Pots.
Jelly of Currans tinftur'd with Rafberries.
If you are defirous, that the Curran-jelly have a Tinture
of Rasberries, a Handful or two of Rasberries may be added,
according to the quantity of your Jelly : And to make it chief
ly of Rasberries, it will be requiite only to take four Pounds
of Rasberries, two of Currans and five of Sugar, and to order
all, after the fame manner, as for the former Jelly of Currans.

Jelly ofCurrans, according to the Way of the City of Tours.


Having provided three Pounds of Currans, with two Pounds
and a half of Sugar, boil'd till it be crack'd, throw in your Fruit,
and give them feven or eight Boilings, till they return to the
Pearled Quality ; cauing the Scum to be carefully taken off:
Then let them be train'd thro' a Sieve, and pour'd into Pots,
at the fame time. . -

In ordering thee forts of Jellies, whooever deigns to play


the good Husband, may take the Fruit or gros Subtance, re
maining on the Sieve, and boil it over again, with a little Wa
ter: Afterwards,it mut be trongly fqueez'd thro' the Hair-fieve,
and by that means a great deal more good Jelly will be extrat
ed : But this is only requiite to be done, when a great quantity
of the gros Subtance is left; otherwie it would not quit cot,
by reaon that the Profit will not countervail the Trouble.
For the Compotes, Conferves, Marmelades and Pates of Cur
rans, recoure may be had to thoe Articles hereafter decribed
in particular. * r

X4 C H A F.
36 AVenw Instructions,for Confectioners.
*.

C H A p. XI.
OfWalnuts.
IN the Interval, or rather during the Seafon of red Fruits,
and the first that ucceed them, Walnuts are uually pre
ferv'd, when they are come to their full Growth, nevertheles
before the Wood is formd ; which happens in the beginning Qf
Guly, and a little after the Fetival of St. John Baptit. -

White Walnuts.

The Walnuts mut be neatly pard, till the White appears,


and thrown into fair Water : Afterwards, they mut be boil'd
for fome time in the fame Water, whilt fome other Water is
fet over another Furnace, into which the Walnuts are to be put,
as oon as it begins to boil. It may be perceiv'd, whether they
be done enough, by pricking them with a Pin, after the fame
manner, as green Almonds and green Apricocks ; o that when
they flip off from it, they ought to be romov'd from the Fire.
To render them White, it is requiite at first, to throw in
Handful of bearen Allum, and to give them one Boiling more:
Then they muft be immediately cool'd, by turning them into
freh Water, in order to be put into thin Sugar, that is to fay,
allowing one Ladle-full of Water, for every two of Sugar. *

Some rime after, having drain'd your Walnuts, lip them into
earthen Pans, and having caus'd the Sugar and Water to be heat
ed together, pour it upon them. . On the next Day, ler the Sy
rup be clear'd from the Pans, without removing the Walnuts ;
becaue they mut not be fet over the Fire, at all : Let this Sy
rup have five or fix Boilings, augmenting it a little with Sugar,
and let it be pour'd upon the Walnuts: On the next Day, it
ought to have fifteen Boilings ; on the third Day, it mut be
boil'd, till it become fomewhat Smooth ; as alo on the follow
ing Days ucceively, till it be very Smooth, between Smooth
and Pearled, and ar lat entirely Pearled; encreafing the quanti
ry of Sugar, at every time, to the end that the Walnuts may
be always equally foak'd in the Syrup. To bring the whole
Work to let them continue in the Stove during the
Night, and afterwardslet them be putinto Pots. By this means
the
**
Mew Instru#ions for Confefioners, 37
the Walnuts will become very white, provided, that good fine
Sugar be us'd in the Operation, and they may be dried in the
Stove, at pleaure, as other forts of Fruir. For Walnuts pre
erv'd liquid, if ome Syrup of Apricocks be added they'll keep
much better. - -

|
If you have a mind to stuff them with Lemmon-peel after
the manner of Roan-walnuts, it may be done, before they are
- put into the Stove, to be dried : To that purpoe, the neceary
Opening may be made with the point of a Knife, either quite
through, or on the top of the Walnut, and then the Lemmon
| peel, iuing forth from thence, will as if it were the
realStalk. Some Amber may alo be added, which will giveir
a Perfume very grateful both to the Tate and Smell. -

C H A P. XII.

Of Plums.
AM the different kinds of Plums, the mot proper for
Preferving, are the Perdrigons, or Orange-plums, Amber
plums, thoe of Ile-verte and ome others, that have not only an
exquiite and very weet Tate, but alo a Pulp that is of a more
| firm and durable Subtance.
To Preferve white Orange-plums.
Thee forts of Plums mut have three or four Pricks with a :
Pin, near the Stalk, and fome others in feveral other Places, to
| the end that they may not afterwards be apt to tear, and that
| the Sugar may more eafily penetrate their Body. As they are
done, they mut be thrown into Water, whilft fome other Wa
teris boil'd, into which they are to be flipt. When they begin to
| rife, they may be romov'd from the Fire, and fet by to cool:
Then let them be fet again over a gentle Fire, to be brought to
their former green Colour, and let them be coverd; taking
care that they do not boil, left they hould turn to Marmelade.
As foon as you perceive them to be very green, and fomewhat
oft, let them be cool'd in freh Water and drain'd, in order to
be put into thin Sugar; allowing, as it has been alreadyhinted,
e. . . - - - tWO


F New Instruions for Confectioners.
two Ladles full of Sugar, forone of Water, till the Fruit, being
laid in earthen Pans, is well foak'd, without rifing on the top
On the next Day, they are to be flipt into a Copper pan, f.
fimper over the Fire, tirring them gently from time to time, t.
hinder them from boiling; and, on the third Day, they may b.
drain'd on a Cullander or Sieve: Then flip them into the Sy.
rup, that has had even or eight Boilings, caue them to fimpe
for a while, and et all by, till the next Day; when the Syrup
is to have fifteen or fixteen Boilings, augmented with Sugar, o
Syrup of Apricocks, which is berter for that purpoe, as pre
venting them from candying; o that the Plums may be always
equally oak d. On the Day following, let the Syrup be boid
Smooth, and on the next, between Smooth and Pearled, and
having flipt in the Fruit; let it fimper every time, before it is
taken off from the Fire. Latly, Having boil'd your Syrup till
it be Pearled, and flipt in the Plums, give them feven or eight
cover'd Boilings, taking off the Scum, and dres them, when
you hall think fit, in-order to be dried in the Stove.
The Orange-plums mut be chofen, before they are altoge
ther ripe, as well as the mot part of other forts of Fruits. The
other kinds of Plums, that are of kin to thee, are uually pre
ferv'd after the fame manner, and, among others, thoe of Ile
verte and the Mucle-plums. - -

Amber-plums.
*A

Let your Amber-plums be prickt with a Pin, in feveral Pla


ces, and boil'd in the fame Water into which they were thrown:
As oon as they rife on the Surface of the Water, remove them
from the Fire to be peedily cool'd in freh Water: Then let
them be drain'd, and foak'd in clarified Sugar, which is to be
heated, and pour'd upon the Fruit lying in the earthen Pans:
On the next Day, drain them again, and let the Syrup be boil'd
a little Smooth: On the fecond Day, the Syrup mut be likewie
boil'd till it become very Smooth, and on the third, till it be
Pearled; when the Plums are to have feven or eight Boilings.
As often as they are thus fet, over the Fire, they mut be aug
mented with Sugar, which has attain'd to the fame Degree of
Boiling, to the end that the Fruit may be always equally foakd,
in the earthen or Copper-pans, in which they are left, after they
have imper'd for ome time. When you have a mind to finih
the Work,
.
let them lye-in the Stove during the whole Ng:0
-
AVen Instructions for Confectioners. 39
fo as they may be conveniently drain d and dres'd the next
Morning, in order to be dried in the fame Stove, after the uual
II la IlInCr. * -

v
-- Red Plums,

Having provided thee forts of Plums, fuch as red Orange


plums, Bell-plums, Imperial, or Apricock-plums, or others of
the like nature, let them be lit as it were Apricocks, and toned.
If you have four Pounds of Fruit, take the fame quantity of Su
gar, pas'd thro' the Straining-bag ; put all together into a Cop
per-pan over the Fire, and keep continually tirring them, left
the Skins of the Plums hould break, if they hould happen to
boil: After having caus'd them to fimper, for a while, fet them
by to cool: Then drain them on a Cullander or Sieve, whilft
the Syrup is boil'd Smooth; flip your Fruit into the ame Syrup;
and give them feven or eight cover'd Boilings; carefully taking
off the Scum, as well as when the Pan is remov'd from the Fire.
Afterwards the Plums, being into earthen Pans, mut conti
nue in the Stove all Night; fo that the next Morning they may
| be drain'd as foon as they are cold, and dres'd, to be dried in
the Stove upon Slates, or Sieves. . . . . . .. - : i - i

Plums preferv'd with half Sugar and otherwie.


Take four Pounds of Fruit, with the like quantity of Pearled
Sugar; give them one little Boiling, and fet them by till they
have cat their Juice. Then let them be fet again upon the Fire,
and boil'd to the Pearled Quality: Afterwards, they mut lie in
earthen Pans, till the next Day; when they may be drain'd, and
dres'd as the others, for drying in the Stove: All forts of good
Plums may be preferv'd after the fame manner; and they may
alo be pard, after having calded them in Water: For the ref,
the above-pecified Directions may be oberv'd in every Parti
cular; only they mut be strew'd with Sugar, before they are
dried in the Stove. . . . ..
Moreover, there are Compotes, Pastes and Marmelades of
* which are explain'd among the others, under thoe Ar
ticles, : , , - - , , , , , - ,
- .'
; H, , !. . .
- - - - --
, ,: - - -1 - * -

|| - .
,
::--
'. , , , fi :-:- (n-
. . . ... . . '
: , :; '
' ~

. .. C H -A P.

|
4o New Instruions for Confectioners.

C H A P. XIII.

Of Pears preferv'd dry and liquid.


THere is a much greater variety of kinds of this Fruit; yet
very few of them are commonly preerv'd, viz. the great.
Mucadine, the Mufcadil, or leffer Mufcadine, the Blanquet,
the Certoe, the Orange-pear, and more epecially the Rouffelet
or Ruffetin. The mot part of the others, are either too oft,
or too hard for that purpoe; and if they are not eaten raw,
Pastes, Marmelades and Compotes are only made of them; all
which are hereafter decrib'd under their repective Articles.
Rouffelets, or Rufain. |
Let thee Pears be prickt round about the top, with a Bod
kin, and fet over the Fire ; taking care that the Water do not"
boil, and pouring in freh, from time to rime, when it is ready.
to bubble up: As foon as the Pears are become omewhat fost,
let them be cool'd, pard, and put into other fair Water: After- :
wards, being drain'd, they mut be fliptinto Sugar, newly pas'd :
through the Straining-bg, and ought to have between forty i
and fifty Boilings: On the next Day, they are to be drain'd :
again, whilst the Syrup is boil'd Smooth, in the which you are
to flip the Fruit, and to give them one or two Boilings: On
the third Day, let the Syrup be boil'd to a Degree between
Smooth and Pearled; and, on the fourth, till it be thoroughly
Pearled, for the finihing of the whole Work; fo as the Pears
may have ten or twelve cover'd Boilings. When they are
cool'd, they may be put into Pots, and kept to be dried, asoc- i
cafion half require, which may be done in the fame manner :
that has been befor explain'd fr Apricocks. To that purpoe,
fome Water being boil'd in a Pan, the Pot mut be fer into it,
and by the means of this kind of Balneum Marie, or vaporous
Bath, the Syrup will be melted, o that the Fruits may be rea
dily taken out and drain'd, in order to be dried in the Stove,
upon Slates or Boards, after they have been trew'd with Sugar
They are alo dried at first, and keep very well when fo orderd;
but care mut be taken to turn and change them often, and at
lastroloek them up in Boxes, with Paper between every Row.
Blan- |
|- New Instruitions for Confeioners. 4I

Blanquets.
Foramuch as this fort of Fruit is fooner ripe than the Rue
tin, and very much eteem'd; ome of them are early preerv'd
for a Rarity, and immediately dried. To that purpoe, they are
uually prepar'd in the fame manner; that is to ay, they are
kalded after having been prick'd on the top; taking care that they
do not boil: As foon as the Pears are made very oft, only by
means of a gentle heat, they mut be cool'd and pard, throwing
them, as they are done, into freh Water: Afterwards, they are to
be put into Sugar newly clarified, and finih'd in the fame manner
asthe Rufferins. Both thee forts mut be trew'd with fine Su
| ar, in an Handkerchief, when they are fet into the Stove, or
turn'd; in which Particular, 'twill only be expedient to follow
the Instrutions already given, for other forts of Fruits, as Apri
c0cks, Plums, &c.

Large Mufcadines, Orange-pears, Certoes, and others.


| . All thee kinds of Pears and others, that are deign'd to be
| preerv'd entire, may be calded and boil'd in Water and Su
gar, as the Ruffetin; o that it would only be an unprofitable
Repetition, to infift any longer on them.
The musked Bergamot.
This fort of Pear is likewie excellent, when preerv'd, being
amall dry Pear, very much musked. "Tis alo call'd the Dove
pear, the Sicilian Pear, or the little Autumn-mucadine. To or
* der it to the bet advantage, fee what has been already laid
| down for the former, more epecially for the Ruffetin, and take
3 Meaures, altogether according to that Method, which is as ge
neral as certain, for all thee kinds of Summer-pears.
3 J e

Pears preerv'd in Quarters and otherwife.


Befides the above-mentioned Pears, which may be preerv'd
whole and dry; there are others larger, that can only be
o orderd in Quarters, as to be kept liquid : To that end,
: ome Confetioners lit them into Halves, before they are cald
din Water; but it is more expedient to leave thementire, and
not to pare them till afterwards, becaue otherwie they v:
s
42 AVen. Instruions for Confectioners. |

be apt to grow black, being alo more liable to be fill'd with :


Water, and to turn to Marmelade. For the ret, it is only re-:
uifire to follow the preceding Directions, relating to the other :
of Pears. ". - , - , :
If you are defirous to preerve Pears of a fomewhat large fize,
altogether entire, it would be expedient to coop out their Core,
with fome of the Pulp in the middle, as it were that of an :
Orange : They are brought to perfetion, by cauing them to
be boil'd in Sugar, at feveral times, and may alo be dried. :
To thee Ways of preerving Pears, may be added the Mar- :
melades, Pates and more epecially the Compotes of them, that :
are kept even till the Seafon of new Fruit, and which hall be
hereafter decrib'd under thoe Articles. |

|
'

C H A P. XIV.

Of Peaches and Figs.


THe two forts of Fruit are fo highly eteem'd in their natu- :
ral Condition, that they are very feldom preferv'd: As for :
the latter, this Care is left to the Genoefes, and to the Inhabitants |
of Provence,in France, in which Countries,they are more common,
and even of a more exquifite and fweet Tate, by reaon of the
| heat of thoe Climates; fo that mot People content themelves :
generally to make ue of uch as are brought from thence. How- :
ever, we hall not forbear here to ubjoyn, what is mot ob
fervable in the ordering of both, when they are deign'd to be
preferv'd.
Green Peaches.

When Peaches are yet green and mall, they may be pre
ferv'd as green Apricocks before pecified in the fourth Chap
ter ; preparing them after the ame manner, to get off the
Flocks or Down, and to bring them again to a green Colour, i
before they are put into Sugar. But if they are larger, and
the Stone is already form'd, they mut be pard and flir, to take
it away. Then they are to be calded in Water, till they be
come very oft. As foon as they are cool'd and drain'd, let
- , -- them
New Instraions for Confectioners. 43
them be made green again in other Water, fet over a gentle
Fire, and put into thin Sugar; allowing for every two Ladles
full of clarified Sugar, one of Water; which being heated, the
Peaches mut be flipt in, and have fome Boilings; carefully ta
king off the Scum. On the Day following, the Syrup being
boil'd fomewhat Smooth, and the Fruit being turn'd into it,caue
all to fimper together for a while, and leave them till the third
Day; when the Syrup is to be boil'd very Smooth, augmenting
is quantity with Sugar, whilt you flip in the Peaches, and
give them a Boiling. aftly, the whole Work may be finih'd,
is foon as you perceive, that they have thoroughly imbib'd the
|Sugar; to which purpoe, let tl e Syrup be boil'd, till it become
Pearled ; encreafing it with Sugar of the fame Quality, and
having flipt in the Fruit, let them have a cover'd Boiling. After
wards, removing the Pan from the Fire, clear all from the
Scum, and in regard, that the Peaches have a fomewhat cold
and waterih Pulp, let them lye, during that Night in the Stove,
todry up all their moiture: On the next Day, you may dres
them on Slates, glazed Tiles, or any thing elfe of the like na
ture, to be dried in the Stove, trew'd with Sugar. Or elfe,
they may be dipoed of in Pots or Glaffes, to be dried any
| emergent Occaion,according to the Intrutions given, Pag. 17.
Peaches that are preerv'd, before the Stone or Kernel is form'd,
must be put into Sugar, no otherwife than green Apricocks, or
green Almonds, and the fame Precautions are to be us'd, for
which fee Pag. 16. Compotes, Marmelades and Pates may be
alo made of them, as well as of the following forts, as it hall
be oberv'd in its proper Place.
Ripe Peaches.
Altho' mention is made of ripe Peaches, yet when they are to
be preerv'd, it is not expedient to tay, till they are abolutely.
o; but they mut be taken, when they are half turn'd, by rea
fon of their oft and clammy Pulp. They ought to be neatly
pard, as alo flit, to get out the Stones, and calded in Water:
As they rife on the top of it, they mut be taken out with the
Skimmer, and turn'd into other Water to cool. Then, being
drain'd, they are to be put into Sugar, as it runs from the Strain
ing bag,andboil'd tilltheScumceaes torie,which must be care
fully taken off from time to time. Having left them in this con
i dition, till the next Day, let them be drain'd, whilt the Syrup
,, 1S
44 Mew Instruions for C5.F. -

is boil'd Smooth, augmenting it with Sugar. Afterwards flip in


our Fruits, give them a Boiling, and take them off from the
} On the third Day, being drain'd again, as before, and
the Syrup boil'd till Pearled ; let the Peaches be likewife flipt
into it, adding fome Pearled Sugar. After they have had a co
verd Boiling, let them continue in the Stove all Night, in or
der to be dres'd upon the Slates, or Boards, and dried ; trevv
ing them with Sugar, on every fide, as often as they are turn'd ;
unles you would have them kept liquid for fome time. *

Peaches may alo be preerv'd in half Sugar, as Apricocks,


fpecified Pag. 2o. and drefs'd either way, in Ears, as that fort of:
Fruit; by turning one of the Halves, as they tick together; or
by laying two, one upon another, fo as they may be mutually ;
conjoynd; when they are mall.
Netarins. -

Netarins may be preerv'd, after the fame manner as Peaches,


following the Method already expres'd for the putting them into
Sugar, and white Netarins are more epecially proper, for this
Sort of Sweet-meats.

Dried Figs. |

Let the Figs be prickd near the Stalk, with the point of a :
Knife, before they are calded, which may be done by throw- 3
ing them into boiling Water, over the Fire, and a little while :
after, fetting them by to cool. Some defer the pricking of them :
to that time, and bring them again to the Fire, without fuffer- :
ing the Water to boil; fo as when they are become foft, and
rife on the top, they may be remov'd, and fet a-part to cool.
Afterwards, their green Colour mut be recoverd, by calding
them once more in Water, over the Fire : Then being taken !
out, and drain'd, they may be preerv'd with half Sugar, or at
mot, clarified, as it runs from the Straining-bag ; accordingly,
as the Figs are either green, or omewhat ripe ; which ought to
fimper in this Sugar, and to lye by during the whole Night:
On the next Morning, the Syrup mut be boil'd Smooth; on
the third Day, between Smooth and Pearled, and at lat, quite
Pearled, adding every time, as much Sugar as is needful: At ;
thoe feveral times, the Fruit mut alo be flipt into the Syrup
that has attain'd to uch different Degrees of Boiling, and ought
TO
' New Trm, for Confectioners. 45
to fimper for a while. Whenever you have a mind to dipatch
the Work, ler the Figs have fome cover'd Boilings, in order to
be thoroughly cumm'd, and laid up in Pots, or Glaes; unles
you would have them dried all at once : To that purpoe, the
Fruits mut be dres'd upon Slates, after they have been well
drain'd, and fet into the ftrewing them with fine Sugar,
put into a Kandkerchief, for that purpoe.
Tis requiite to chooe uch Figs, as are only half ripe, or
even fomewhat green, provided they be of a ufficient thick
nes. The Genoa-Fig, call'd Aubicon by the French, or the Fea
ver-fig, is the best for this Ufe; and in regard that thee Figs
are of a dark Violet-colour, if they were already turn'd, when
deign'd to be preerv'd, they mut not be brought to a green
Colour, nor any other forts of the like nature.

C H A P. XV.

/ Of Apples.
TH Fruit is of no great Ue in the Bnfines of Preerving,
and not very delicious, when fo order'd; at leaft with re
fpet to the drying of them in Specie: For as for Pastes, Marme
lades, and more epecially Compotes of Apples, great quantities
of them are uually made, even till the new Fruits appear. How
ever, fome may be preerv'd, after the two following Ways,
when other forts of Fruit are wanting.

Green Apples.
Any kind of Apples may be chofen that are weer and very
fmall; which are to be pard, leaving the Stalks, and flit
little, to the end, that the Sugar may be more thoroughly im
bibd. Having thrown them into Water, to be cleans'd and
fcalded, they mut be cool'd and afterwards brought again to a
green olor, in the fame, or other freh Water: As foon as
they are become very oft, let them be cool'd again, drain'd,
and put into Sugar newly clarified, giving them fome Boilings:
Qn the next Day, the Syrup must be boil'd Smooth, at another
time, between Smooth and Pearled, and ar lat very much
Pearled;
46 New Instructions for Confectioners.
Pearled; lipping in the Fruit, that all may imper together,
and be fet by, till the next Morning: At this lat time, the A
les ought to have a cover'd Boiling, before they ar remov'd
the Fire, to be cool'd and drain'd; if it be requir'd to dry
them : But they are mot proper for liquid Sweet-meats; fo
that they may be immediately dipoed of in Pots, or Glaffes,
and kept to be us'd as occaion may ferve.
|
John-apples and Pippins preferv'd in Quarters.
The former retain a verydelightful red Colour, and the others
may pas for Apricocks, if fome Syrup of Apricocks be pour'd
upon them, as they are finihing. . Both thee forts of Apples, af
ter they have been par'd, are to be cut into two Parts, fo as the
Cores may be taken out of each Half; or elfe, the paring and
cutting of them may be deferrd, till they have been calded in
Water, to render them foft. Afterwards, being cool'd and
drain'd, they mut be put into Sugar, newly pais'd thro' the
Straining-bag, in order, to have thirty Boilings. On the next
Day, they are to be train'd again, and the Syrup boil'd, till it
has attain'd to its Smooth Quality: Then flip in the Fruits, and
let them have one or two Boilings: On the third Day, let the
Syrup be boil'd to a Degree, between Smooth and Pearled; and,
on the fourth, till it be quite Pearled; caufing the Apples to
have ten, or twelve cover'd Boilings. As foon as they are cool'd,
they may be dried, as all other forts of Fruit, fetting them by
to drain, for a while, drefing them upon the Slates, and trew
ing them with fine Sugar, put into a Handkerchief: Other
wife, they may be kept liquid, and when, at another time,
you are minded to dry them, boil fome Sugar, till it be Pearl
ed, and give them a few Boilings therein: By this means they'll
become more fair, in drying, as well as all other forts of Fruit,
o order'd; becaue it always happens, that their Moiture, cau
fes the Sugar to give, a little, in proces of time, which hin
ders them from being eaily dried.

C H A P.
Mew Instructions for Confectioners. 7.
C H A P. XVI.
Of Bell-grapes and Mufcadine grapes.
ALtho thee two kinds of Grapes are very different, yet they
are no les eteem'd, amidt the great variety of Sweer
meats. The Bell-grape, well known at Paris by Name of
Verjus, is ditinguih'd into three forts, viz. the White, the Red,
and the Black. For want of thee, the Pergoleife, or Italian
Grapes may be us'd, which are fomewhat long and clear. The
bet Mufcadine-grapes for Preerving, are the long, or Paffe
mufqu, and the white Mucadine of Frontignan. - ~

Bell-grapes preferv'd liquid.


Having caus'd fome Water to fimper over the Fire, throw in
yqur Grapes, and fet them by, as oon as it rifes, in order to be
cool'd, and afterwards brought again to a green Colour in the "
fame, or other freh Water: Whilst the Fruit is draining, boil
the Sugar, till it be Pearled, and flip in the Grapes, till all be
gin to fimper: At that intant, let them be remov'd and left in
the Pan, till the next Day; when they are to be fet over the
Fire again, and gently tirrd, till ready to boil: On the third
Day, having drain'd them, on a Cullander, and caus'd the Sy-
rup to be fomewhat Pearled, let the Grapes be flipt into it, and
let all fimper together a little while. On the fourth Day, the
Fruit mut be drain'd again in the fame manner, whilt the Sy
rup is brought to its Pearled Quality; then, the Grapes being
turn'd into it, ought to have feven or eight Boilings. At lat,
being taken off from the Fire, to cool, they may be put into
Glaffes, or Pots, and us'd as occafion requires. . .
It would be expedient, to make choice of thee Grapes, be-
fore they begin to grow ripe, and only to take the fairet, which
are to be ftoned, and flit on one fide. . ,

Bell-grapes preferved dry.


They ought to be prepard, and put into Sugar, after the
fame manner, as the liquid Grapes, only the Sugar may be
made fomewhat more Pearled, for the lat time of Boiling, be
Y 2 - fore
48 New Instructions for Confectioners.
fore the Work is brought to perfetion; to the end, that they
may more eaily be dried, after having caus'd them to be cool'd
and drain'd, as the Cherries in Ears, decribed Pag. 27. They
may alo be dres'd in like manner, except that the Grapes
mut be clos'd again, and their Stalks left entire. But you muft
not forger, either Way, to trew them lightly with Sugar, as
they are fet in the Stove and turn'd.
Bell-grapesare mot commonly preerv'd liquid, either entire,
or after the Stones have been taken out. . They are alo pre
ferv'd pared, and it is only to oberve, what has been
before deliverd, with repet to thoe that are otherwife or
der'd. - -

The Pates and Compotes of Bell-grapes, are hereafter peci


fied, under thoe Articles.
Jelly of Bell-grapes.
When the Grapes are prepar'd as before, let them be thrown
into Pearled Sugar, and boil'd till it returns to the fame Quali
ty: Then let all be pour'd into a Sieve, and let the Liquor
that paes thro', without fqueezing, or at leat after a v
little prefing, be conveniently dipoed of in Pots or Glaes. |
To this purpoe, it is requiite, to produce as many Pounds of
Sugar, as of Fruit. *

Some make a Jelly of Bell-grapes, by fqueezing them, after


they have been calded in Water, without opening them, and
afterwards adding a Decoction of Apples: But the former Way
is much better, and the Jelly fo order'd will keep longer.
Mustadine grape preferv'd liquid. -

You are to cheofe fuch Mufcadine-grapes, as are only half


ripe, or even fomewhat greenih and tart, and to pare them, if
you hall think fit; picking out the Stones, after they have been
flit on one fide; or elfe they may be left entire: They may alo
be calded in Water, over the Fire; but they may be very well
preerv'd, without this particular Circumstance : To that end,
let the Sugar be boil'd Smooth, and, having thrown in the
Fruit, let all fimper a little while, leaving them in the fame
condition, till the next Day. If you perceive, that they have
fufficiently imbib'd the Sugar, compleat the Work, by cauing
the Syrup to be Pearled, and lip in the Grapes, in tO
- - IlaVG

--
- New Instructions for Confectioners. | 49
have ome cover'd Boilings; taking off the Scum from time to
time. Then they mut be neatly put into Glaes, or Pots, and
cover'd as foon as they are cool'd. Otherwie, the Mufcadines
may have three Boilings, before they are brought to Perfection,
the econd of which,is to be between Smooth and Pearled, but in
the lat, the Sugar mut be always Pearled. If it be melted at
firt with of other Mufcadine-grapes fqueez'd for that
ala UC,
,
the Perfume will be more fragrant and grateful to the

Mufcadine-grapes preerv'd d.y.


Let the Sugar be boil'd till it become Feathered, and let the
Grapes be thrown into it, after having remov'd the Pan. Then
fet it over the Fire again, and give the Fruir a cover'd Boiling ;
taking off the Scum; as in the preceding Article. Afterwards,
the Syrup being only brought again to its Pearled Quality, it
mut be taken away, and fet by to cool; fo as the Grapes may
conveniently drain'd and dres'd, in order to be dried in the
tOVe. -

Mufcadine-grapes fo orderd, may be taken more ripe, than


for liquid Sweet-meats, and thoe that are thoroughly ripe, ma
be iced : Compotes and Pates may be alo made of them, whi
hall be hereafter explain'd under their repetive rticles.

C H A P. XVII. -

Of Quinces and Marmelade made of them. ' .


O when preerv'd, are one of the dometick Sweer
meats mot in vogue, as well upon account of their grate
ful Tate, as by reaon of their Uefulnes for certain Indipo
itions of the Body: So that the Way of Preerving them in
Quarters, Marmelade or Jelly, is generally well known; never
theles, we hall here give a particular Decription of them, t
the end, that it may be done after the bet and furet man
HET, -

Y3 Quinces
5 New Instruitions for Confectioners.
- Quinces prierved liquid.
. Having chofen the ripet, yellowet and foundest Quinces,
let them ieprick'd, and fcaldedin Water, over the Fire: They
mut alo be par'd and cut into Quarters, taking out the Cores:
Some order them thus, before they are calded; but it is more
expedient, not to do it till afterwards, as well as with repet
t the other forts of Fruit; becaue otherwife, being too much
|
fill'd with Water, they would become oft and pungy, and more
apt to turn to Marmelade. However, care must be taken to
ut the Quinces into fair Water, as they are par'd, whilst a
f made of the Parings, Cores, and ome Parts of o
ther Quinces. This Liquor beingstrain'd, will ferve for the tew
ing of thoe that are defign'dro be , till they become
very fot; otherwifethey may be calded after the uual manner.
Then they mut be remov'd from the Fire, in order to be cool'd
and drain'd: In the mean while, fome clarified Sugar is to be
heated fomewhat more than luke-warm, and pour'd upon the
Quinces in an earthen orCopper-pan: On the fame Day, or the
next, the Syrup being only made Smooth, the Fruit mut be
fliptinto it, andvery gentlybil'd, carefully taking off the Scum.
It is uppoed, that they maybe brought to a redder Colour, b;
coveringthem, but this may be done by the means of prepa
Cochineel, oreven of Wine, which will make themredenough,
if it be requifite. After the Quinces have had thirty or forty
Boilings, as the Syrup may return at leatroitsSmooth Quali
ty, they mut be taken off, and fet by till the next Day: Then,
having boil'd the Syrup between Smooth and Pearled, flip in
the Fruit, and give them fome Boilings, before they are remov'd
from the Fire. To finih the Work, the Syrup being Pearled,
and the Quinces turn'd into it, ler them have a cover'd Boiling,
and let the Syrup be brought again to its Pearled Quality: At
last, when it begins to fink, al mut be taken out, and put into
Pots or Glaffes, to be kept for Ue.
The Quinces may alo be dres'd eparately in Boxes, and
cool'd in that manner; whilt the Syrup is fet again over the
Fire, till it become Pearled, in ordertobe pour dupon the Fruit,
fo as they may be cover'd with a fine Jelly: Then the prepar'd
Cochineel may be added, or ele, during the lat of the former
Boilings, when they are ported, without any other Manage
iment, ' - ** . -

!; : : ,, , Marme
New Instruitions for Confectioners. 51

AMarmelade of Quinces, according to the Mode of the City


of Orleans.
Take the bet fort of Quinces, and cut them into Pieces,
which are to be par'd and cleard from the Cores and Kernels:
At the fame time, having provided two Pounds of Sugar, boil'd
till it is become Crack'd, throw in about fix Pounds of Fruit
and let all boil together, to a Pap. Afterwards, they mut be
turn'd into a new Cloth, to be well train'd, and the Li
which paes thro', will ferve for the Marmelade: To that pur
poe, letthistrained Liquor, be pour'd inro other Pearled Sugar,
to the quantity of four Pounds, and as foon as the whole Mes
returns to the fame Degree of Boiling, let ir be carefully Scum
med. Then you may remove it from the Fire, taking off the
Scum again, if there be occafion, and pour it into Boxes, Potsor
Glaes, which mut be left in the Air, for fome Days, before
they are cover'd. ; ;

Other forts of Marmelade of Quinces.


Having cut the Quinces into Quarters, without Paring them,
or taking away the Kernels, let them boil in Water, till they
diolve, and turn to Marmelade: fhen let all be train'd thro'
Linnen-cloath, or elfe thro' the Straining-bag, without fqueez
ing, and let the Liquorbe et by; whilt as much Sugar is boil'd,
till it become Crackd; into which it mut be pour'd, with a
little white Wine, or Claret, according to the Colour, that you
would have given to the Marmelade. Some SticksofCinnarnon
beaten a little, may alo be added, with Nutmeg, Cloves and
Mace: Let all boil together gently, and rake care to clear off
the Scum; tirring them from time to time, with the Spatula,
or with a Spoon. As foon as the Marmelade returns to its
Pearled Quality, or is boil'd to the confitence of a fine Jelly,
which falls in great Drops, when taken up with the Spoon; take
it off from the Fire, and pour it into a Sieve fet over a Pan,
or ele train it thro a Linnen-cloath, in order to be put into
Pots or Glaffes, as before: The Marmelade may alo be pour'd
into leaden Moulds, and when it is cool'd, they may be putinto
hot Water, as it were in Balneo Marie, or a vaporous Bath, fo
as the Pieces of Marmelde may be eaily looen'd and let fall
ne upon another in the Boxes.
y Y 4 - If
52 New Instructions for Confectioners.
If you have a mind to givea finer Tinture to the red Mar
melade, it may be done by the means of prepar'd Cocheneal,
that is to ay, fuch as has been boil'd in Water, with Allum and
Cream of Tarter; and then all may be train'd, to be us'd, as
occafion requires. |

Marmelade is alo made, into which may be put a leffer


quantity of Sugar than of Fruit, or oftheir Decoction; and this
is all the difference, between thee two Ways of preparing it.

C H A P. XVIII.

Of Oranges and their Flowers.


WE are now come to the Winter-fruits, and thee are nor . ;
of the leat conequence ; on the contrary, they hold
one of the principal Ranks, among thoe that are proper for
fweet-Meats. But it will be requifite at firt, to give fome Ac
count of the Orange-flowers, whichare chiefly preerved during
theSummer, and then to procede infhewing the manner of pre
ferving the Qrangesthemelves, according totheir feveral kinds,
viz. thoe of China, Sevil, the Portand others; which are either
fweer or four, or ele both weet and four together. |

Topreerve Orange-flowers.
The Orange-flowers mut be thrown into Waterand Salt, and
left in that Pickle during five Days: Then they are to be cald
ed in two Waters, over the Fire, with a little Lemmon-juice,
as the Orange-flower-buds hereafter decribed; in order to b
putinto Sugar, newly pas'd thro' the Straining-bag, and alrea
ed heated: On the next Day, let the Sugar be boil'd, a little
Smooth, and pour'd upon the Flowers; forthey ought not to be
fer on the Fire, any longer. On the third Day, boil your Su.
gar quite Smooth, and upon the Flowers: After
wards, having et all by to cool, let the Flowers be drain'd,
and dried with Powder-ugar; laying them in order,upon Sieves.
On the Day following,, they must be turn'd on the other fide,
and trew'd likewife with Sugar put into a Handkerchief.

Orange

|
New Instructions for Confeioners. 53 :

* Orange-flower-Buds.
Let them be thrown into Water and Salt, as before, and
continue therein, during eight Days: I hen letthem be drain'd,
and prick'd in two places, with a Pin; that is to fay, on the
| Bottom, and thro' the Middle, to the end that they may more
| eafily imbibe the Sugar: In the mean while, ome Spring-water
| is to be fet over the Fire, and when it boils, the Flowers are to
be put into it, with a little Lemmon-juice. When they are half
done, fome Water mut be fet over another Furnace, and the
Buds laid a draining, which are to be thrown intoit, as oon as
it begins to boil: Afterwards, they mut be drain'd again, and
order'd with Sugar, as the former Orange-flowers; that is to
fay, they mut be firt put into clarified Sugar, and then cald
ed,three feveral times, withoutfetting them over the Fire; only
pouring off the Sugar, from the earthen Pans, that contain the
| Buds; giving it the proper Boilings, above expres'd, and at
| last turning it upon the fame Buds. Then it being fet by to cool,
| they may be drain'd and dried with Powder-fugar.
- As for the Conerves, Marmelades, Pates and Patils made
of Orange-flowers, recoure may be had to thoe different Ar
ticles hereafter pecified, in their Order.

Sevil-Oranges preferv'd in Quarters, or in Sticks.


The Oranges are firt to be Turn'd or ele Zested, after the
fame manner, as Lemmons which hall be explain'd Pag. 57.
except that the Surface of the Orange-peel, mut only be par'd
| offvery lightly. The Oranges being thus prepard, maybe cut
either into Quarters, or into Sticks, accordingly, as you hall
| think fit; but the Skin on the infide and the Juice must be taken
| away. In themean while, fome Water is to be fet over the Fire,
and the Oranges are to be thrown in, as foon as it begins to
| boil: It may be perceiv'd, that they are done enough, by their
ipping off from the Pin, and then they may be cool'd, putting
'them into freh Water; as alo afterwards, into clarified Sugar:
At the fame time, they ought to have feven, or eight cover'd
Boilings,and to be fet by to cool. However, they mut be boil'd
| over the Fire again, till the Syrup becomes almot Smooth, and
drain'd the next Day, to be put into Pots, whilft your Syrup
is made Pearled; which being pour'd upon the Oranges, they
- may
54 New Instructions for Confectioners.
may be kept thus, till you hall judge it expedient to dry
oberving the Diretions hereafter laid down for Lemmons, Pag.
57 & 58. -

Sevil-Oranges prefervedentire.
As the Oranges are Turn'd or Zested they mut be thrown
into fair Water, and afterwards calded over the Fire, till they
become very foft, and flip off from the Pin: Then they muftbe
cool'd, and coop'd with a little Spoon, made for that purpoe,
at a little Hole bord in the middle, where the Stalk grew,
They are uually put into Sugar, and dried after the fameman
ner, as the Quinces and Sticks of Oranges, even now decri
bed.

China-oranges preerved whole, or in Quarters. -

China-Oranges are preerv'd whole, as the former; except,


that Part of them may be left without fcooping, as being very
delicious when done altogether entire, by reaon of their weet
nes: So that it is ufficient only to make a Hole on the top, as
well to take away the inner Skin, as to the end that the Sugar
may penerrate into the infide. . -

s for thoe that arepreerv'd in Quarters,every Orangemust ,


be cut into three Parts, and the fame Intrutions mut be fol
low'd, that were given a little before, for Sevil-Cranges.
Oranges of the Port.
This kind of Oranges, that are of a weet-four Tate, may .
likewie be preerv'd in Quarters, or in Sticks ; in performing
which Work, there is nothing elfe to be oberv'd, but what
has been already expres'd for the other forts of Oranges. -

Sour Oranges.
*
Thee are likewie preerv'd both in Quarters and in Sticks,
but it is obervable, That after havingfcalded them, they ou hi
to be teept for one or two Days in certain Pails or other Vehels
fill'd with Water, which is to be chang'd from time to time, to
the end that their Bitternes may be taken away, as it may be
perceiv'd by the green Tinture, which they give the Water.
;- . - For
"
Mew Instruitions for Confectioners. 55
For the ret, it is expedient only to oberve, what has been
already deliverd, with repet to the other forts of Oranges.
Theelat are chofen either from among the Bigarrades, or the
Sevil-Ornges, which are of that Nature.
Faggot: of Oranges.
The Orange-peels, that are turn'd or par'dvery thin are often
preerv'd, more epecially thoe offweer Oranges, drawing them
out, to as great a length, asis and thee are commonly
call'd Faggots. To that purpoe, they are to be calded in Wa
|ter, over the Fire, till they become very oft, and put into Su
gir newly clarified; giving them twenry Boilings: Then they
ire to be remov'd, and fet by ; but the next Day the Syrup
mut be made Smooth stid the Orange-parings fliptinto it, that
they may have two or three Boilings. On the third Day, let
iembedrain'd, whilt the Sugar is brought to its Pearled Qua
lty, and let them have a cover'd Boiling, in order to be taken
of, and ditributed into Pots, unles you are minded to dry s
.."

dem at the fame time. This may be done, by cauing other


|Sugar to be mde white, rubbing it on one fide of the Pan with
the Skimmer, and boiling it till it be Feather'd. Then the Fag
pts are to be flipt into it and dres'd in Rocks. Otherwife,
aving caus'd the Sugar to be Blown, throw in your Orange
'arings, give them a cover'd Boiling, and et them by, in or
der to be laid upon a Grate, or Hurdle, and dried in the Stove;
which may be donein a fhort time, but the other Way is more
ferrable.
Thus both yellow and white Faggots are made after the fame
manner: The former are thoe Parings which are made of the
itt Peel of the Orange, and the others are taken offafterwards,
byturning them a fecond time.
| *
s*
- Zets
si : *
of Sevil-Oranges.
...They are order'd altogether after the fame manner, as thoe
f Lemmons, for which Diretions hall be given hereafter: So
dat recoure may be had to them, and it would be needles to
inicipate the Matter in this Place, -

-, *:.

Orange-

:
56 New Instructions for Confectioners.
Orange-flips.
Small Slips may likewife be made ofthe fame Oranges, an
to that end, the fame Method may be follow'd, which hall b
anon explain'd for Lemmon-flips, of which a greater quantity :
uually preerv'd.
Certain Slips of four Oranges are generally put into a kind :
Sugar-plums, call'd Orangeaz, which are very grateful to th
Taite, whenorder'd with goodSugar. Thefame fort of Suga:
plums, are alo made with Lemmon-lips.

C H A P. XIX.

Of Lemmons.
Emmons may be preerv'd after differentmanners; and arec
feveral forts. Certain greenones are fometimes broughtove
entire, which pas for Indian Lemmons: Theripe ones that com
to our Hands, are frequently preferv'd whole, in Sticks, Slips
ests, and otherwife; not to make mention ofthe Pats, Marme
lade and Conerves that are made of this Fruit. Let us begin
with the firt fort, altho' we have no longer an opportunity v
preerve fuch in thee Parts. -

To preferve green Indian Lemmons.


Thee mall Lemmons are to be lightly flit on one fide, to the
end, that the infide may be as much oak'd in the Sugar, as the
other Parts: Then let them be thrown into Water over the Fire
but prevented from boiling, by pouring in freh Water from time
to time to caue it to fink. As foon asthe Lemmons rife onthetop
let them be taken off, and fet by to cool: Afterwards their greer
Colour must be recoverd, by fetting them over the Fire again.
in the fame or other Water, which ought to boil by degrees, till
the Lemmons become very foft, and flip off from the Pin. Then,
being taken out and cool'd again, nothing will remain to be
done, only to put them into Sugar, after the fame manner, as
the following forts of Lemmons. . -

, ,

"
- New Instruitions for Confeifioners. 57
White Lemmons preferv'd in Sticks.
Thee Lemmons must b Zested or ele Turn'd, according as
four Intention is, either to preerve them in Kests or Chips, or
p make Faggots. To Turn, in this Sene, is a Term of Art,
ignifying to pare off the uperficial Rind or Peel, on the out
ide, very thin ad narrow, with a little Knife; turning it round
about the Lemmon or Orange, o as it may be extended to the
kngth of feveral Fathoms: To Zeit, is to cut the Peel, from top
obottom, into mall Slips, as thin, as it can poibly be done.
The Lemmons thus order'd, are to be firt cut into Quarters,
ind then into Sticks; dividing thoe Quarters into two or three
'arts, according to their Thicknes. Afterwards, they mut be
rown into Water boiling over the Fire, and calded with their
juice and innermost Skin, which keeps them whiter, and could
tot be gotoff from the Pulp, without difficulty, unles they were
thus heated over the Fire: Care mut alo be taken to throw
iem into fair Water, as they are Turn'd, or Zefted; other
vile they would foon grow black.
When you perceive, That the Lemmon-pulp is become very
fi, let it be cool'd, and afterwards put intoSugar, newly pas'd
iro' the Straining-bag: Then give it feven or eight Boilings,
ind pour all into Pans. On the next Day, let the Sy
up be pour'd off, without taking away the Fruit, and let it
lave twenty or thirty Boilings, having augmented it with a
litle Sugar. Some time after, the Lemmons are to be put into
i, and fo on the following Days ucceively, as the Syrup is
boild, first a little Smooth, then altogether Smooth, at ano
er time, between Smooth and Pearled, and at lat thoroughly
learled ; always adding ome other Sugar, as often as
sfet over the Fire.
| As foon as the last Boiling is perform'd, for bringing th
fruit to perfection, they may be drain'd and dipoed of in
los or other Veffels, if they are defign'd for keeping. The
Lemmons may alo be dried at the fame time, or any other,
pleaure; and for that purpoe, it is only requiite to cool
iem, which may be done more peedily, upon any urgent Oc
tafion, by fetting the bottom of the Pan into cold Water. In
the mean while, let ome Sugar be made Feathered ; and, ha
ing drain'd the Fruit, flip them into it, in order to have a
werd Boiling. Then take all off from the Fire, and as foon
| - 31S
58 New Instruions for Confectioners.
as the Boiling entirely ceafes, begin to work and make you.
Sugar white, in a Corner, by rubbing it with the Back of
Spoon, or Skimmer, against the Side of the Pan. Afterward:
the Lemmons mut be boil'd in this clarified Sugar, and fet :
draining, upon Grates: Thus they'll become dry in a few Hourt
and at any other time, when you would have them dried, yo:
need only put the fame thing into pratice.

Lemmons preferv'd in Zets, or Chips.


As the Lemmons are Zefting, in the above-mention'd man.
ner, let the zests be thrown into fair Water on one fide, ant:
the Quarters, on the other, to prevent them from turning Black;
Afterwards, let the Water be heated, and the zests put into it.
to be calded, till they become very fot: Then, having turn'e
them into freh Water, they mut be cool'd, and order'd with:
thin Sugar; putting one Ladle full of Water into a Pan for
every two of clarified Sugar; thus all mut be heated over the
Fire, as long as you can well endure to hold your Finger ir
Liquor. In the mean while, the Lemmon-chips being,
drain'd, and fliptinto an earthen Pan, the Sugar is to be pour'd,
upon them, and they ought to be foak'd in it, omewhat longer
than ordinary. They may be left in this condition, till the next:
Day, when they are to be drain'd in a Cullander, whilt the
Syrup is boil'd, till it become a little Smooth : Some time after:
this Syrup must be pour'd again upon the zests; as alo, on the
third Day, aftr having brought it to its Pearled Quality, and
augmented it with a little Sugar. On the fourth Day, the Lem
mon chips are to be drain'd again, and dried in the Sieve, upon:
Hurdles, or upon the Grate, with a Pan underneath, to re
ceive the Syrup that ditills from thence. They ought alo to
be turn'd from time to time, till they become very dry, and at:
lt hut up in Boxes, to be kept for Ufe. .

Lemmons preferv'd in fmall Slips.


Having Zeted your Lemmons, cut your Pulp into Slips,
which are to be flit again in their to render them very
thin, and by that means certain mall Slips will be made, ofthe
length of Lardoons, or Slices of Bacon, that are proper for Lar
ding. - Thee Lemmon-flips, are to be calded, at first, in Wa
ter over the Fire, till they become very oft. Then let fome
. clari
New Instractions for Confeifioners. 59
darified Sugar, newly pas'd thro' the Straining-bag, be like
wife fet over the Fire, and, when it is ready to boil, throw in
your Slips, in order to have twenty Boilings: They may alo
le put into the Sugar all at once, without taying till it is hot.
0n the next Day, having boil'd the Sugar Smooth, and lipt
them into ir, let them have feven, or eight Boilings. On the
tird Day, or the Evening before, if they were made ready in
the Morning, you may bring your Sugar to its Pearled Quality,
and give the Lemmon-lips a cover'd Boiling. Afterwards, they
are to be put into Pots or other Veffels, according to the quan
ity, and dried, as occaion ferves; which is to be done after
the following manner: -

Let your Lemmon-lips be well drain'd from their Syrup,


and put into Feather'd Sugar; giving them a cover'd Boiling,
and tirring them from time to time. After this cover'd Boil
ing, remove the Pan from the Fire, and, as foon as you can
endure to touch the Handles, begin to work the Sugar, and
make it white, in a Corner, as before; by rubbing and beatin
it by degrees, with the back of the Ladle or Skimmer, a
the fide of the Pan: Then, taking up the Slips, with two Forks,
let them be turn'd and foak'd in this Sugar, till they are weli
ic'dover. Laftly, they mut be laid a draining upon Hurdles,and
dres'd in Rocks; by which means they will be peedily dried,
and brought to perfetion. However, if the Buines does not
require Dipatch, or if you have no mind to ice them in this
manner; fome Sugar may be boil'd till it has attain'd to its
Blown Quality, and the Lemmon-flips may be put into it :
Then, having given them a cover'd Boiling, let them be taken
Out, and dres'd a little while after, upon a Grate, or Hurdle,
| to be fet into the Stove: But care mut be taken to turn them
on all fides, fo as they may be thoroughly dried, and ar lat
laid up in Boxes, to be us'd as occafion hall require.
| . If the Lemmon-flips fhould happen to puff, or turn four in
the Veffels, in which they are kept, they mut be fet over the
Fire, with a little Water to caue them to giv, and then boil'd
till a thick and black Scum ries on the top, which mut beta
ken off. When they have recover'd their formerDegree of Boil
ing, which is Pearled, their fournes will be entirely taken
away, and they may be dipoed of at pleaure. To that pur
fome caue the Syrup to be firt fet over the Fire, which
ing cumm'd, they turn in the Slips, to give them a Boiling;
but this Matter is altogether indifferent. The Management of
others
/
6o AVen Instruions for C7F7F
others is yet more inconfiderable, who, for fear of too much di
minihing the quantity of their Sugar, defer the cumming of it
till it ettles when taken off from the Fire, and till the groet
Substance of the Scum is only left: For by that means, they run
the hazard of being put to the trouble, to renew the ame Work,
within a very hort time, and the fame thing may be affirm'd,
with repect to other forts of Sweet-meats, that are to be clear'd
from their fournes. - -

Faggots of Lemmon. *i

t- i

As to this Particular, it is only requiite to follow the Intru


ctions given for the Ordering of Orange-faggots, Pag. 55. fo
that the Reader is referr'd to that Article ; becaue few Lem
mons are preerv'd after this manner, and a much greater quan-:
tity of Oranges, more epecially the weet ones.
}
Lemmons preferv'd entire. s!

. Having Zeted, or elfe Turn'd your Lemmons, according:


to the Method explain'd in the econd Article; throw them, a
as they are done, into fair Water, with fome Juice of other
Lemmons, to prevent them from turning Black. Let them :
alo be calded over the Fire, in Water, with Lemmon-juice ,
likewife, till they become oft and tender, and flip off from thes
Pin. Then, being cool'd in cold Water, they mut be fcoop'd :
with a little Spon, made for that purpoe, at a little Hole bord ,
on the top. As foon as they are well coop'd and cleans'd, they :
are to be put into Sugar, pas'd thro' the Straining-bag, and the ;
whole Work is to be finih'd after the fame manner, as Lem
mons in Sticks. They may alo be prepar'd for Drying thus:
Ler the Sugar be brought to its Feathered Quality, and made
white in a Corner, according to the Diretions elewhere laid
down. Then, having fliprin the Lemmons,ler them be drain'd
upon Hurdles, with the Hole underneath, after they have been
taken out, with a Spoon and Fork.
For Marmelade,
hereafter pecified. and Pates of Lemmon, fee thoe Articles : *a

- -
, ' /
-
|

C H A P.
*
New Instructions for mf7 r. | 61

- - C H A P. XX. -

Of Cedres, Limes, and yellow Citrons.


TH three forts of Fruit have o neara relation, one to ano
| ther, that there is no difference in the preerving of them,
and very little, with repet to the common Lemmons: How
ever, we hall hre ubjoin the particular Ways of ordering them
to the bet advantage.

Green Cedres preferv'd in Sticks or Quarters.


. In thee Parts, only ripe Cedres are us'd, fuch as are brought
over from beyond Sea; but in the Countries, where they grow,
as in Provence, and on the Coats of Genoa and Nice, great quan
tities of them are preerv'd Green, after having taken out the
Juice, to make the Liquor call'd Cedraz... To that purpoe, they
| are uually cut into Quarters, to be reduc'd afterwards to Sticks;
of any fize that hall be thought fit: They may alo be cut
according to their Thicknes, and thro' the middle, by reaon
of the extreme largenes of this Fruit ; by which means there
will be two forts, viz. one entirely Green, and the other White.
They are generally preerv'd liquid, and tranported in that con
dition ; o that there is no more to be done, but to dry them,
as Occafion ferves, which may be performd in this manner:
At firt they mut be drain'd from their former Syrup, and pur.
into Feathered Sugar, in order to have a cover'd Boiling: As
foon as they are fomewhat cool'd, and you can endure to touch
the Handles of the Pan, the Sugar may be work'd and made.
} white, by beating and rubbing it by degrees againt the fide of
the Pan : Afterwards, your Cedres mut be laid in the fame Su
gar and turn'd: The they are to be taken out, and drain'd
upon a Cullander, or Hurdle, fo as their Pulp may lie down
wards; by which means they will be finely ic'd over,and dried
in a fhort time, without the help of a Stove.
To preferve ripe Cedres and Lims or Pomecitrons.
' .. - : - * : -- , 4 - '

...They are uually cut, altogether as the green Cedres, or ac


gording to the following Method egten. ; to which Articl.
. re
62 New Instructions for Confefioners.
recoure may alo be had, for the Way of ordering and putting
them into Sugar; becaue it is abolutely the fame,without any
difference. The fame thing may likewife be done, with re
pect to Limes, or great Lemmons, of which a kind of Syrup :
is alo made, as well as Limonade. :
Citrons.

Yellow Citrons are preerv'd either in Sticks, or in Slices,


and fometimes without taking away the inner Skin and Juice:
As for thoe that are orderd after this lat manner, it is only
requiite to cut them into round Slices, of a convenient thick
nes, and afterwards to divide thoe Slices into two parts. But
the other Way is mot uual, and to that purpoe, after the Ci
trons have been Turn'd, or Zefted, they are to be cut thro' the |
middle,and each halfis to be divided into four Quarters: How
ever, nothing but the Pulp ought to be taken, of which leffer
Slices or Sticks are made, which may be cut again, according
to their thicknes, and preerv'd conformably to the following
Diretions.

To preferve the Pulp of yellow Citrons.


Having cut the Citrons, as before, let them be thrown into
boiling Water, and to facilitate the calding of them, add an
Handful of bearen Allum. As foon as you perceive the Fruit
to be foft, let them be cool'd, and put into Sugar newly clari :
fied: Afterwards let all have feven or eight Boilings, in order
to be fet by in earthen Pans till the next Day; when the Syrup
being taken out, and boil'd fomewhat fmooth, mut be au
gmented with other Sugar, and pour'd upon the Citrons. On
the third Day, let the Syrup be made very Smooth, and like
wife pour'd upon the Fruit. To make them ready for the Re
pofitory, they are to be drain'd, and fer in order in Pots, or
other Vefels; whilt the Syrup is brought to its Pearled Qua
lity, to be pour'd upon them. When you would have your Ci
trons dried, you need only oberve, what has been before laid
down, for the ordering of Cedres.

Zefts
New Instructions for Confectioners. 63

zests of citroni, &c. v

The zost: or Chips of yellow Citrons, cede: and Limes, #

are pree v altogether after the fame manner, as thoe of or


dinary Lemmons; for which fee Pag. 57.
---- - - * - - - - A-

C H A p. XXI.
of Compotes for the whole rear.
WE have hitherto treated only of Fruits, as they are pre
! ferv'd in their natural Condition; either dry, or liquid;
but now it is requiite to give fome Account of the other forts
of Sweet-meats that may be made of them ; oberving likewie
the Order and Seafon of every one of them, as before ; of thee,
the mot common are the Compotes: Neither isit difficult to pre
pare them duly, when the Method of Preerving all kinds of
Fruit is well known; becaue, before they are entirely brought.
to perfetion, they come to the Degree, which is ufficient for.
Compotes. owever, we hall not forbear here to expres the
bet Manner of Ordering them, to the end, that the Reader.
may have greater Advantage in this Particular; and fo much
the rather, in regard, that, thee forts of Sweer-meats being de
fign'd to be immediately eaten, or at leaft, in a hort pace of
time ; it is not neceary, to take fo many Precautions, nor to:
oberve fo many nice Circumtances, as in the Managing of
Fruits, that are to be thoroughly preerv'd. - -

Compotes of green Apricocks.


Having par'd your Apricocks, or put them into a Lie, fuch.
as is d Pag. 16. let them be cool'd and pierc'd thro' the
middle; throwing them into other freh Water: They muft
alo be brought again to their green Colour, the Wa-.:
ter once more, in which they are to be boil'd, till they flip off
from the Pin. As foon as they are cood and drain'd, they mut
be put into thin Sugar, allowing one Ladle full of Water for
every two of Sugar, and cauing b : to be made Lakewan;
2,
64 New Instruttions for Confectioners. -
by which means they'll foon throw ont all their Moiture, and
imbibe the Sugar. They may be left in this condition till Night,
or the next Morning, according to the time, when they were
put in, or as there may be occafion for the Compote: Then bring
all to the Fire, and give them thirty or forty Boilings, till the
Apricocks are become oft, and have thoroughly imbib'd the
Sugar. Afterwards, they mut be fet by to cool; but if you
have only two or three Compotes of Fruit, and too much Syrup
is till left, you may give it ome Boilings a-part, and then pour
it upon the Apricocks, dres'd in China-dihes or Bowls provided
for that purpoe.
But it is expedient to prepare a much greater quantity, at
once, to ferve from time to time, during the Seafon: Beides,
that what is left, may always be brought to perfetion, by cau
fing the other Boilings to attain to higher Degrees, which are
neceary for the keeping of the Apricocks, as well liquid, as
dry.

Another Compote of green Apricocks.


If you have a mind to make a Compote of green Apricocks,
out of Seaon, it may be eaily done, provided, there be fome
liquid ones at hand : For you need only take uch a quantity of
Fruit as is requifite, with part of the Syrup; fetting the latter
over the Fire in a Copper-pan, with a little Water to caue it
to give. Then let it have fome Boilings, and pour it upon your
Apricocks, in order to be ferv'd up, either hot, or cold, accor
dingly as it hall be judg'd expedient. -

Altho' dried Apricocks were only left in the Repofitory, ne


vertheles a very good Compote may be made of them; by pur
ting theminto a Pan, with fome Syrup of other green Apricocks,
or other Syrup of the like Nature, and cauing them to give,
as before. Then after a few Boilings, you have no more to do,
but to dres your Compote and ferve it up to Table.
Compotes ofgreen Almonds.
|
Having put Almonds into a Lie prepared according to the
Directions in Pag. 16.let them bebrought again to their Colour,
and boil'd. Then they are to be put into Sugar, oberving
what has been even now deliver'd with repe to compotes of
green Apricocks, made ready atall times: So that the like may
- - be
New Instructions for Confectioners. 65
be prepared, with green Almonds, either in Seafon, or other
when preerv'd wet, or dry.
w Compotes of green Gooeberries.

Slit your Gooeberries on the fide, and pick out the mall
Grains that are enclos'd therein: Then let them be calded in
Water, over the Fire, and taken off, as foon as they rife on
the top of the Water; ferting them by, to cool: Afterwards,
they mut be brought again to their Colour, and heated in other
freh Water, till they become very oft and tender: At that in
ftant, they may be remov'd from the Fire, in order to be cool'd,
drain'd, and put into Sugar newly clarified; but they mut on
| ly be foak'd in it, and the fame thing is to be oberv'd, with
repet to other forts of Fruit. Some time after, give them
fourteen or fifteen Boilings, and if you percieve, that they have
imbib'd the Sugar, you may referve them, for the
making of Compotes, at any time, till the Seafon is pas'd : So
that the ret of the Work may be finih'd, by giving them the
Boiling, that is peculiar to this fort of Fruit, and pecified in its
proper Place, Pag. 33.
When thee Boilings are perform'd, only for Compotes, if
too much Syrup be left, it mut be boil'd feveral other times,
after having taken out the Goofeberries, upon which it is to
be pour'd, at lat. At another time, if you are defirous to make
a compote of green Gooeberries, out of hand, take thoe that
liebyliquid, and caue them to give, with a little Water: Then
let them have a Boiling, with the Gooeberries, and dres them,
upon your China-dihes.
*

Compotes of Cherriss.
Having provided Cherries, and cut off part of their Stalks,
take a quarter, or halfa Pound of Sugar, which will be uffici
ent, if you defign only to make one or two Compotes: Let it be
melted, with a very little Water; becaue the Cherries willyield
a great deal of Juice, and letall boil together; carefully taking
# the Scum, till the Cherries become oft, and have thoroughly
imbib'd the Sugar. If too much Syrup be left, give it ome o
ther Boilings, and afterwards pour it upon your Fruit.
Upon any emergent Occafion, even out of the Seafon, a
Compote may be made of dried Cherries, or others; following
Z 3 the
66 New Instructions for Confectioners.
the Instrutions that have been given for the preceding Fruits.
Compotes of Raberries.
Having caus'd fome Sugar to be brought to its Pearled Qua
lity, let your Rasberries be thrown into it: Then give them
coverd Boiling, and the Bufines will be effected.
Compotes of Strawberries.
Thee Compotes are uually made after the fame manner, but
if the Strawberries are fomewhat over-ripe, the Sugar mut be
boil'd to a little higher Degree. * , -

Compotes of Currans.
Take Sugar newly pas'd tho' the Straining-bag, and boil it
till it is Blown: Then throw in your Currans, give them a
Boiling, and remove them from the Fire. Ifyou percieve, that
they have thoroughly imbib'd the Sugar, they may be drefs'd
upon China-dihes, and ferv'd up to Table: Otherwife, ler
them be brought to the Fire again, and have another Boiling.
Compotes ofripe Apricocks,
When ripe Apricocks firt begin to be in Seaon, they may
be us'd without paring; but afterwards they mut be Turnd
and Ston'd, in order to be calded over the Fire, as thoe that
are defign'd for Preferving : As foon as they rife on the top, and
become oft, they mut be taken off, and fet by to cool: Then
ler them be put into Sugar, as it runs from the Straining
bag, and boil'd till the Scum ceaes to rife any longer;
which is a fign, that the Apricocks have cast all their Juice,
and fufficiently imbib'd the Sugar. But if they do not appear to
be boil'd enough, you may give them a few more Boilings, as
alo the Syrup, in cafe, too great a quantity of it be left, fo as
it may be conveniently pour'd upon the Fruit. . .

Another Way of making Compotes ofripe Apricocks.


Compotes of Apricocks arelikewie made without calding ;
fo as to render them more delicious, and that they may retain a
. . . 1 * ", - - * - - - - greater
New Instructions for Confectioners. 67
greaterrelih ofthe Fruit: Having par'dand ton'd them,you need
only put them allatonce into clarified Sugar; or if thatbe want
ing, into Sugar melted with Water, that is to ay, a Quarter of
a Found, or fomewhat more, for every Compote. Thus they are
rn boil, till they become very oft; to which purpoe, a uffici
ent quantity of Water mut be put to them, altho' they alo
yield ome Juice. When the Scum ceaes to rife, and the Apri
cocks have imbib'd the Sugar, take them off from the Fire, and
obferve, whether it be not expedient to boil your Syrup, a lit
tle longer, that it may be ufficiently conum'd, and only fo much
left, asis requiite for the foaking of your Fruit.
Compotes of Plums.
Let your Amber-plums, Orange-plums, or others, be prick'd
with a Pin, and throwninto Water: Then cald them over the
Fire, in the fame, or other Water, and take them off, as foon
as they rife on the top, cauing them to be peedily cool'd: Then
ler them be brought again to their Colour, and made oft, ac
cording to their kind, and conformably to the Method explain'd
in the Article of Plums. Afterwards, they are to be put into
thin Sugar well heated; allowing one Ladle full of Water, to
two of Sugar. They are to be left in this condition till the next
Day, or only till the Evening, if Occafion require it; and then
they mut be put again into a Copper-pan, in order to have as
i many Boilings, as hall be judg'd expedient, till the Sugar be
thoroughly imbib'd. At that intant, it may be perceiv'd, that
the Scum does not rife any longer, and that the Plums are be-
come oft and tender. A great quantity may be thus prepar'd
at once, and kept for a confiderable time.
Another fort of Compote of Plums.
Compotes may alo be made of Plums, without fcalding; ei
ther leaving the Stones, or taking them away. Having put
them into thin Sngar, let all fimper together, and after they
have been fer by for ome time, let thembe brought to the Fire
again, to boil, till noScum isleft, and till they havethoroughly
imbib'd the Sugar: Or ele, thoe Directions may be follow'd,
that are pecified in the lat Article of Apricock-ompotes,
Z 4 Com
M

68 New Instructions for Confectioners. -

Compotes of Summer-pears.
Thee forts of Pears are to be calded over the Fire, till they
become omewhat foft, and prick'd on the top, with a Bodkini.
even to the Core: Afterwards being cool'd, they mut be par'd;
and thrown into freh Water, in order to be put into clarified
Sugar; adding alittle Water, to boil it. If the Pears are large,
they may be cut into Halves or Quarters; fo as they may fim
per in the Sugar, and cast their Juice. Then let them boil, till
the Scum ceaes to rife, and your Compote will be made. If tod
great a quantity of Syrup be left, let it be conumd a little by
boiling, and pour'd upon the Fruit. Compotes may be made af
ter thefame manner, of Blanquets, Ruffetins, Mufcadines, and
other forts of Pears. . . " *

The clarifying of the Sugar may alo be dipens'd with, only


throwing a Lump of Sugar of a convenient Thicknes, into th
Water, in which they are to be boil'd; and taking care that
the whole be well Scumm'd: A good quarterofa Pound of Su
gar may be ufficient for a Compore of the like Nature. }

Compotes of otherforts of Pears.


Winter-Pears may alo be put into Compotes, in the fame
manner, particularly the Bon-chretiens, thoe of St. Francis and
others. They mut be firt prick'd to the Core, with a Bodkin,
and calded in Water: Then they are to be cool'd, par'd and
divided into Quarters, throwing them again into freh Water :
Afterwards, they mut be put into one half Sugar and the other
Water, and boil'd, till they have thrown out all their Scum;
which isto be carefully taken ff, with the Skimmer. Let the
Pan be remov'd from time to time, and fet afide, as foon as the
Pears have thoroughly imbib'd the Sugar, and are become oft;
therwie they would turn to Marmelade: Then let the Pears
be dres'd upon China-dihes, and having given the Syrup, fome,
other Boilings, if it be requifite, pour it upon your Fruit, and *
fqueez in the Juice of a Lemmon, or Orange: The fame thing
may alo be done in the preceding Compotes. -

*
:

Com
NEPT firmions for Confioners. 59
*.

Compotes of Pears made in a Bell.


There are certain Pears,as the Certoe,the Pound-pear and ome
others, of which another fort of Compote may be made, by cau
fing them to be stew'd in a Bell, thus: Having par'd and cut
your Pears into Quarters, put them into an earthen Veffel, or
one of Copper, made for tat purpoe; in form of a Bell, with
i Water, Sugar, Cinnamon and Cloves: A quarter of a Pound of
Sugar, or omewhat more, will be ufficient for a Pound of
Fruit, and only fo much Water, as may ferve to foak them:
Let them be ftew'd over a gentle Fire, and when they are half
done, let half a Glas of red Wine be added : But the Pot niust
| be kpt cloe topt, and the Fruit stirr'd from time to time, left
they hould stick to the Bottom. Afterwards, the Compare is to
be drefs'd, and the Syrup pour'd upon it, if there be no more
than is needful; otherwie it mut be conumd by degrees, be
caue too great a quantity of it ought not to be left,
Compotes of roasted Pears.
compotes may likewifebe made of roasted Pears: When they
are ufficiently done, and par'd as neatly as is poible, ler thern
be flit and the Cores taken out: Then they are to be put into a
Pan, with Sugar and a little Water, which is to be boil'd and
and confum'd, till the Pears become very red, and till very
little Syrup be left; but they ought to be often tirr'd, to hin
der them from burning, and ticking to the Bottom. Afterwards,
having dres'd them for your Compote, you may fqueez in the
Juice of an Orange, or Lemmon, which will wonderfully
heighten their Relih. ,

ears may be alo put into a Silver-dih or Plate, and bak'd in


an Oven, or otherwife, with Powder-ugar, after they have
been firt fcalded in Water, in order to be pard; or ele they
may be pard, without fcalding: Then let them be dres'd,
ftrew'd again with Sugar; and brought to a Colour, with the
red-hot Fire-hovel; adding the Juice of an Orange, when rea
dy to be ferv'd up to Table. . . - - |

See hereafter the Compotes of Peaches, among which mention


is made, of another manner of diverifying thee Compotes, ag
ordingly as occafion may require. . -

Com
****
7o New Instructions for Confectioners.
Compotes of Apples.
Pare your Apples, cut them into Halves, or Quarters, take :
out the Cores, and, as they are done, throw them into fair Wa-
ter: Then put a good Quarter of a Pound of Sugar, if it be :
only for one Compote, or a greater quantity, proportionably for
feveral Compotes, into a Quart of Water, or more, and let all :
boil with the Apples. As oon as they are become very oft, and :
have thoroughly imbib'd the Sugar, take them out,and lay them :
in order upon your China-dihes; whilst the ret of the Syrup is
boil'd and conum'd, till it turn to a Jelly, which happens, when .
it falls from the Spoon, in thick drops, and does not run in :
Threads. Then pour it upon your Fruit, and, if you pleae, "
fqueez in the Juice of an Orange, or Lemmon.
Other Ways of preparing Compotes of Apples. :

Ler a Decotion be made of the Parings and Cores, with ome :


other Apples, which being strain'd will ferve for the Boiling of
your Compote, in the fame manner as before. Or elfe, when ,
the Apples are tew'd, anda great quantity of Syrup is till left,
ler the ame Parings and Cores be boil'd in it, and let the Sy-,
rup be pas'd thro a Sieve, before it be pour'd upon the Fruit.
Compotes of roasted Apples may alo be made, oberving the
Diretions alreadylaid down for Pears: But you mut remem- ,
ber, to caue your Fruit to be tew'd over a good Fire, and to
turn them, from time to time, with the Ladlet |

A Compote of Apples la Dauphine.


Having cut your Apples into eight Quarters, every one of
which is to be made round, in form of little Balls, as it were
Plums; let them boil in a Decotion, of all the Parings, and
fome other Apples, with the neceary quantity of Sugar, as for
other Compotes. At lat, a little Cochineal is to be added, so
give them a red Colour, and the Syrup mut not be fo much
wafted; unles you would have the Compotes ic'd over, to di
verfifie them. -

Com
New Instructions for Confectioners. 71

Compotes of farced Apples.


Take about a quarter ofa Pound of the dried Pulp of Oran
ges and Lemmons, and pounditin a Morter: Then let ome Ap
ples be chopt mall, and mingled with Marmelade of Apri
cocks, or ome other fort that is at Hand : Afterwards, having
bor'd the Apples thro' from top to bottom, without paring them,
let the Hole, which ought to be wide enough to receive your
Thumb, be fill'd with the faid Marmelade, ler all be gently
4 bakd, upon a Silver-plate, in the Oven; or ele Fire may be
i put round about the faid Plate, and when the Apples are done
enough, they may be foak'd in a little Syrup, as the others.
Compotes of Peaches.
When the Peaches are full ripe, they can only be roafted ;
becaue this fort of Fruit is too oft. Therefore they muft be
neatly par'd ton'd and laid in Quarters, upon a Silver-dih, or
| Plate, with Sugar, and, if you think fit, with candy'd Lem
| mon-peel chopt mall: Then, being bak'd in an Oven, let them
| be dres'd, if they are to be ferv'd up with any Thing elfe, and
| let the red-hot Fire-hovel be pas'd over them, to give them
a fine Colour, after they have been trew'd with Sugar.
| This Compote, and others of the like nature, maybe put into
aTourte, or Pan-pie, and to that end, a Border ofPate, and even
the whole Furniture that is uually provided for other Pan-pies,
mut belaid in the Dih, in which the Peaches are to be roated,
and the Fruit mut be fer in order therein, In the mean while,
another Piece of Pate for Crackling Crut, being roll'd out,
may be cutinto flips,and eparately bak'd in an Oven; in order
| to be ic'd over with the White of an Egg, and Powder-ugar,
| well temper'd together. This ic'd Cruft mut alo be dried in
| the Oven, till it become very white, and laid upon the Pie, a
... |
little
4
before it is ferv'd up to Table.
Other Compotes of Peaches.
compete. may be made of Peaches that are les ripe, accordin
to the Intrutions before f for thoe of Apricocks, Pag. 62.
and others may likewife be prepar'd, upon occafion, of green.
Feaches, in their Seaon, or fuch as have been already preerv'd;
v . . ' - * in
*
72 New Instruions for Confectioners.
in the ordering of which, it is only requiite to oberve the Me
thod laid down for Compotes of green Apricocks.

Compotes of Bell-grapes.
The Bell-grapes mut be firt calded in Water, and brought
again to their as thoe that are defign'd for preerving
liquid, or otherwie: To that purpoe, let your Water fimper
over the Fire, throw the Fruit into it, and, as foon as they be
gin to rife, fet all by to cool: Then caue them to become green
again, in the fame, or other Water, and when they are very
foft, let them be laid a draining; whilft ome Sugar is boil'd
Smooth, or only fimpers a little. Afterwards, having remov'd
the Pan afide, till the Evening, or the next Day, accordingly as
you have time, and, having fet it again over the Fire, give the
Fruit ten, or twelve Boilings, and your Compote will be brought
to perfetion. |

Thus, if you think fit, a ufficient quantity for feveral Servi


ces, may be prepard, and kept for a confiderable time. If you
have a mind to make a Compote of Bell-grapes, out of the Sea
fon, you need only take fome of thoe that have been already
preerv'd liquid, and caue the Syrup to give a little: Then let
it have a Boiling, lip in the Grapes, and dres all upon your
China-dihes. - -

Compotes of Quinces. }:
Let the Quinces be cut into Quarters, rtionably to their
T abolutely loofening ;:
fo as they may stick together, as if the Fruit were till entire:
Or elfe, they may be only pierc'd to the Core, with a Bodkin,
and calded in Water, till they become oft: At that intant, let
them be remov'd from the Fire, to be cool'd and pard, taking
away the Kernels, and throwing them as they are done, into
other freh Water: Then, putting them, as the Pears, into one i
half Sugar, and the other Water, let all fimper together, and
fer them by for a while, accordingly as the time will permit.
Afterwards, being fet over the Fire again, they mut be boil'd,
and cumm'd, till they have thoroughly imbib'd the Sugar, in :
order to be dres'd for your Compote, with the Syrup, when only ;
fo mach is left, as will be requifite for the foaking of them. :
Lastly, let the Juice of an Orange, or Lemmon be fqueez'd up
on all, and let them be erv'd up hot to Table. 0- :
New Instruitions for Confeioners. 7;
Other Ways of making Compotes of Quinces.
The Quinces may be wrapp'd up in wet Paper, and roasted
by degrees under hot Embers: Then they are to be cut into
Quarters, taking away the Cores, par'd, and put into a Cop
per-pan, with Sugar and a little Water; cauing them thorough
ly to imbibe it. When the Syrup is ufficiently confum'd, they
may be dres'd, and ferv'd up hot ; in the fame manner, as the
former.
Or elfe, when your Quinces are roated, pare them, and cut
that part which is mot done, into Slices: Then putting them
into a Dih, or Plate, with Powder-ugar, and a little weet
Water, let them be coverd, and laid upon the hot Embers; by
which means they'll be well foakd, by degrees, and a Syrup
will be made of an exquiite Tate.

! Compotes of Chefnuts.
Having roasted and peel'd your Chenuts, let them bebeaten
| flat, and put into a Dih ; pouring upon them fome Syrup of
| Fruits, or a Decotion of Apples, boil'd with Sugar, till it be
| come Smooth: Then cover the Chenurs, and lay them a foak
ing, over a gentle Fire; adding other Syrup, from time to time,
as the former is confum'd. . They ought to be ferv'd up hot,
to Table; and to that end, the China-ware mut be fet in order
upon a Dih, fo as the Fruit may be turn'd upon them. Then
moiften all, with Syrup, if it be requiite, and fqueez upon them
the Juice of a Lemmon, or Orange.
Compotes of Lemmons, or Oranges.
||
Let your Oranges, or Lemmons be Turn'd, or elfe Zefted;
and calded in Water, over the Fire: Then, having fet them by,
to cool, cut them into Slices, or Sticks, or into round Slices,
cros-wife, and take out the Kernels; throwing the Fruits, as
they are done, into fair Water. Afterwards, having made a
ecotion of Apples, with Sugar, let it be reduc'd almot to a
Jelly, and let the Oranges, or Lemmons be fliptinto it: Other
wife, let them be put into Sugar, newly pas'd thro' the Strain
ing-bag, and have eight, or ten Boilings: Then they may be
fet by, for ome time, and finih'd at pleaure, by giving them
- tWen
77 W Instruions for Confeioners.
twenty other Boilings, in order to-dres the Compote, and erve
it up to Table.

C H A P. XXII.
Of the Conferves of Flowers and Fruits.
TH Article is as remarkable as the preceding, and of no lefs :
importance, in the Art of Preerving; more epecially, for
the preparing and drefing of a Deert, or Banquer of Sweet
ImCatS.

Conferves of Orange-flowers.
Take about three Pounds of Sugar, and boil it, till it be-
comes Feathered: Then, having pick'd a Handful of Orange-
flowers, let thern be chopt, and thrown into the Sugar, when :
the Boiling ceaes: Butcare muft betaken to temper and mingle
them f with the Sugar, to the end, that they may be im-
pregnated with it, on all fides. Afterwards, you are to work
the Sugar, quite round about the Pan, till a mall Ice be made
on the top, and then peedily pour off your Conerve, into Pa
per-moulds, or others: When it is cold, that is to ay, about
two Hours after, it mut be taken out of the faid Moulds, and
kept for Ue. To erve it up to Table, it may be cut after
what manner you pleae, either into Lozenges, or otherwife;
to which purpoe, it is only to mark it with the point
of a Knife, and it will eaily break. If you have a mind to
dres it in an oval, or rond Form, it may be done with a
Spoon, when the onterveis newly made, and o of the ret.

Conferve of Cherries.
Let the Cherries be ton'd, calded over the Fire, and well
dried: Then boil the Sugar till it be Blown, and throw in the
thick Subtance of the Cherries; tempering it well with the Su
gar, to the end that all may be thoroughly intermixed: After
wards work the Sugar round about the Pan, till it makes a mall
Ice on the top, and then pour your Conerveinto Moulds. This
Me
New Instrutions for Confectioners. 75
Method is to be oberv'd, when Cherries firt appear, but when
they are in their full Seaon, you mut caue them to cat their
Juice, and afterwards lay them upon a Sieve: As foon as they
-are drain'd, they mut be pounded in a Mortar, and fet over
the Fire again, to be well dried: Some time after, their thick
Subtance mut be put into Blown Sugar, as before, and order'd,
after the fame manner.
Conferve of Currans.
i Having pick'd your Currans, and put them into a Copper
n, over the Fire, to caue them to cat their Juice, let them
# be well drain'd on a Sieve: Then train them, and let that which
| runs thro' the Sieve be fet again over the Fire, to be dried. In
the mean while, let the Sugar boil, till it has attain'd to its
Crackd Quality, and throw in as much of the thick Substance
of your Fruit, as will be fufficient to give the Conerve a good
Colour and Tafte; tempering all well with the Sugar. After
4 wards, let the Sugar be work'd and made white, round about
| the Pan, as upon other Occaions, and when you perceive a thiri
| Ice, on the top, take off the Pan and dres your Conerve in the
| Moulds. |

Conferve of Raheries.
This fortofConferveis uually made astheformer,only it mut
be mixd with a few Rasberries to give it a Smell and Tinture,
as if it were made altogether of that Fruit: To that purpoe, a
i Handful of Rasberries may be added, with their Grains, but
| thee Grains are omewhat troubleome to the Teeth, and
| may poil your Conerve, when you are about to cut it.
Conferve of Smallage.
Let the greenet Leavesof Smallage, or Celery becaldedover
the Fire, and give them three or four Boilings: Then let them
e be well drain'd, pounded in a Morter, and train'd thro' the
4 Sieve; whilt fome Sugar is boil'd, till it be a little Feathered:
| As foon as the Boiling ceafes, throw in what was train'd, and
| temper it well with the Sugar, which must be work'd asbefore,
| and when an Ice appearson the top, the Conerve may be pour'd
| into the Moulds.
White
76 New EFT77for Confeioners..
/ -

White Conferve. *

For want of Orange-flowers, ome Marmelade made of them


may be usd, if you have any at Hand; Otherwie, take a lit
tle Marmelde f Lemmons, with Grange-flower-water, or
the Juice of a Lemmon, if you are minded to diverifie the
Conerves. In the mean time, the Sugar being boil'd, till it be
come Feathered, temper your Marmelade with it, and for the
ret,oberve the Intrutions given for the preceding Conferves.
. Conferve of Violets. *
W

Conerve of Violets is madein the fme manner, as that of


Orange-flowers; only the Violet-flowers mut be pounded in a :
Mortar, after they have been pick'd, and you are to put int
the Sugar, what is requifite to give your Conferve, the Colour
and Tate ofViolets. It may alfo be made, with Marmelade of
Violets, if any of the grosSubtance taken from your Syrup of .
Violets, be left; incorporating it with Pearled Sugar: For by
that means, it will keep, as iong as you hall think fit, and "
Pates may likewife be made of the farhe Subtance, mingling
with
llTC.
Marmelade of Lemmons, which eafily imbibes its Tin
*|

Other forts of Conferves. . .


Many other Conerves may be made, in taking meaures :
from the former; particularly of Barberries and Pomegranates, :
by oberving the Diretions before laid down for thoe of Cur- ;
rans; of Roes and Jeffemin, imitating the Conerves of Violets, c.
or Orange-flowers; and o of others, which may be prepard, s
according to Dicretion. }

::

C H A p. XXIII.
Of Marmelades.
- AN Account might be given of what relates to this Arid,
in treating of every kind of Fruit in particular; but for- *
much as evral forts of Marmelade may be made at once,
1I
i;
AVenw TF7; for C57Foner. 77
it was judgd more expedient, to comprie all in one Chapter,
fo as recoure may be more conveniently had thereto. Thee
Marmelades are of great Ufe, in an Office, for the making of
Pan-pies, or Tarts; or ele, by the Mixture ahd Distribution
of their Colours, the Coats of Arms of everal Families may
be repreented ; as alo,Flower-de-luces, Croffes and many other
Devices. When you would have more than one fort of them
made in one Day, and with the fame Stock of Sugar; all thee
Fruits mut b firt pick'd, calded in Water, or boil'd over
the Fire, according to their Qualities; then train'd thro' Sieves,
and dried in different Copper-pans, or Silver-dihes: In the mean
while, Sugar is to be boil'd, proportionably to the Quantity of
z Pates; which are to be put in, when it has attain'd to the de
- grees of Boiling hereafter expres'd. To that purpoe, it is expe
dient to begin with thoe Pates, or Marmelades that requirea
ftrong Sugar, and whilst they are foaking and fimpering over
another Furnace, the Sugar may be brought to that degree of
Boiling, which is neceary for the others; which afterwards are
to be order'd in the fame manner.

Marmelade of green Apricocks.


Let the Apricocks be put into a Lie, fuch as is decrib'd
Pag. I 6. and cool'd in freh Water, to take off the Skin: Then
they mut be well boil'd, till they become very oft, and being
drained, pas'd thro' a Sieve, into a Pan. Afterwards, this
Pate mut be dried over the Fire, carefully stirring and turn
ing it, on all fides, with the Spatula, o as no Moiture may be
left, and till it begins to stick to the Pan. In the mean while,
let ome Sugar be boil'd, till it become Crack'd, which is to b
temper'd with the Marmelade, after having weigh'd out as
much as is needful, that is to ay, a Pound of one, for every
Pound of the other: When this is done, it remains only, to
caue all to fimper together, fora while, and to put your Mar
melade into Pots, or Glaes, or ele to procede to the drying
of it.

Marmelade of Cherries.
The Cherries mut be firt ton'd, and fer over the Fire in a
per-pan to caue them to cat their Juice: Afterwards they
are to be drain'd, bruis'd and pas'd thro' a Sieve, and the Mar.
- - - - Aa - - nie
75 New Instructions for Confectioners.
melade mut be put again into the Pan, to be dried, over the
Fire, as before. Then let fome Sugar be boil'd, till it be great
ly Feathered ; allowing one Pound of it, for every Pound of
Fruit, or Pate : Let all be well intermix'd together, in order
to fimper for fome time, and at lat let the Marmelade be put
into Pots, or Glaes strew'd with Sugar: They ought not to
be left long upon the Fire, left they hould become too black,
and for that reaon, they mut be fet over one that is quick,
in order to be thoroughly dried. -

AMarmelade of Currans.
Having provided Currans, and trippd thern off from the |
Bunches, foak them in boiling Water, till they break: Then
removing them from the Fire, let them bedrain'd upon a Sieve,
and as foon as they are cold, pas'd thro' the ame Sieve, by
reaon of the Grains; fome time after, they mut be dried over
the Fire, according to the uual Method, whilft the Sugar is
rought to its Crack'd Quality, allowing a Pound of it for every ::
Pound of Fruit. Latly, letit all bewelltemper'd together,andha- s'
ving caus'd them to fimper a little, let them betrew'd with Sugar, 'n
in ordertobe conveniently dipos'dofin Potsor Glaffes,as before :
Marmelade of Bell-grapes is made after the fame manner.

-
Marmelade of Raherries. i

The Body of this Marmelade is uually made of very ripe


Currans, to which is added a Handful of Rasberries, to make
it appear as if it confifted altogether of the latter. For the rest, *
it is only requiite to oberve, what has been even now deli
verd, with repect to the preceding Marmelade.
/ * |
Marmelade of ripe Apricocks.
Take five Pounds of very ripe Apricocks, boil them in two
Pounds of Pearled Sugar, till they have thrown out all their :
Scum, and then remove them from the Fire. When they are s
cold, fet them again over the Fire, to be broken and dried, till
they do not run any longer. In the mean time, three Pounds &
half of Sugar, being made Crack'd, let it be incorporated ;
with the Pate; let all fimper together for a while, and let the :
Marmelade, trew'd with fine Sugar, be dipos'd of in Pots, or
Glaes, as the others: --Mar- \;

?
Mew Instructions for Confefioners. 79

Marmelade of Plums.
If they are uch Plums, as flip off from their Stones, let thoe
Stones be taken away: Otherwife, let them be calded in Wa
ter, till they become very foft ; let them alo be drain'd and
well queez'd thro' the Sieve: Then dry your Marmelade over
the Fire, and let it be incorporated, with the fame Weight of
Crackd Sugar: Latly, having causd it to fimper, for fome
time, let it be put into Pots, or Glaies, and trew'd with Su
B aMirabolan
T. ; Plums, as well red, as black, are very proper for
- . -

this fort of Sweet-meats.


Marmelade of Pears.
, Let your Pears be calded in Water over the Fire, and when
they are become very tender, let them be taken out and drain'd:
Then train all thro a Sieve, and let your Sugar boil, till it be
very much Feathered ; allowing three quarters of a Pound of
it for every Pound of Fruit: Laftly,having temper'd it with the
Pate, which ought to be well dried, and having caus'd them
to fimper for a while, pour the Marmelade into Pots or Glaffes
. ftrew'd with Sugar. .

- Marmelade of Apples.
Marmelade of Applesismade altogetheraccording tothe Me
thod even now explain'd; as well for the manner of ordering
the Fruit, as with repect to the Quantity, and the Degree of
boiling the Sugar, which is necery, for that purpoe.
Marmiad. of sevil-orange.
z Having cut your Oranges inro Quarters, withoutTurning or
Zesting them, take away the Juice and the tops, where there
is a tough Skin, which cannot eaily be foften'd: In the mean
time, ler ome Water be fet over the Fire, and when it is ready
to boil, throw in your which mut boil, till they
become very e touch Finger: Then
they are to 'd in freh Water, dfain'd, and trongly
fqueez'd thro Linnen-cloath: T; Plpihust alo be
a 2.
8o New Instructions for Confectioners.
ed in a Mortar, and pas'd thro' the Sieve ; whilt fome Su
gar is boil'd till it be Feathered, which is to be mingled with
the Marmelade in the Copper-pan, into which it was put, to
be beated again a little, to the End that the moistnes may eva
porate. The uual quantity of Sugar is requiite, as well that
it may flip off, from the bottom of the Pan, as that, what is
taken up with the Spatula may be entirely eparated from the
rest, without running. Atlat, fet your Marmelade upon the
Fire again, to fimper, and let it be pour'd hot into Pots or o
ther Vefels.

Marmelade of Lemmons.
The Lemmons being Zeted, cut into quarters, and clear'd
from their Juice, mut be thrown into Water, as they are done,
to hinder them from turning black: Then having caus'd other
Water to boil over the Fire, let them be put into it, and
when they have had four or five fqueez in the Juice
of a Lemmon, as alo that of another, fome time after. As foon
as your Lemmon-pulp is become very oft, it mut be cool'd,
draind and fqueez'd in a Linnen-cloath, before it is pounded
in the Mortar, and pas'd thro' the Sieve. Lastly, your Mar
melade mut be fet over the Fire again, a little while, as the
former, and the Sugar is to be order'd, after the fame manner.
Marmelade of Orange-flowers.
. Takeonlythe Leaves of your Orange-flowers, without the
Yellow; or Stalks, and as they are pick'd, throw them into fair
Water, into which the Juice of a Lemmon has been queezd:
Then cald them over the Fire, as it has been hewn, in the
preceding Articles, till they become very oft; adding likewie,
the Juice of another Lemmon. . Afterwards, being well Pres'd
in a Linnen-cloath, or ele with your Hands, they mut be
pounded in a Mortar, and train'd thro a Sieve, if it be requi
fite. As for the Sugar, it mut be made greatly Feathered,and
incorporated with the Marmelade, till it flips off from the bot
tom and fides of the Pan. Latly, having caus'd all to fimper,a
little, the Marmelade may be i into Pots, and kept for
ue; if you are not defirous, to have it dri
This is the bet Way of preparing the Marmelade of pure
Orange flowers; otherwie, to ave ome Charges, it may be
*- -* - : - mna
*

\,

New Instruions for Confectioners. 81


mingled, as Occafion requires, with a little Marmelade of
Lemmons, which is e white and of the fame Tafte:
Infomuch, that ome Confetioners caue it to pas for the
true Marmelade of Orange-flowers; contenting themeves on
ly to throw in a Handful of Flowers, when it is made, to give
it a little Smell, or Tinture of them.
Obervations upon the feveralforts of Marmelade.
The manner of drying all thee different forts of Marmelades
fhall be explain'd in the following Article of Pates: Thoe of
green Apricocks, and green Almonds are apt to grow greafy,
and will not keep very long ; o that it is requifite either to dry
them immediately, or in les pace of time, than three Months;
otherwife they cannot be well dried. The Marmelades of O
range-flowers and Lemmons, generally candy within a little
while, altho' they ar duely prepar'd, but that is no great dam
mage. . Whenever you would have them dried, let all the
Cany be put with a little Water into a Copper-pan, over the
Fire, and let it be brought again, to the neceary Degree of
Boiling, with other Sugar, as much as is needful for the drying
of your Pate; fo as all may be mingled with the faid Pate,
according to the Method, hereafter pecified.

C H A P. XXIV.
Of the Pastes of Fruits. --

T is only requiite to have recoure to the particular Marme


lades, of every fort of Fruit, decribed in the fore-going
Chapter, to know how to make as many Pates; in regard
that it is almotthe fame thing, and the whole Work is brought
to Perfection by drying thoe Marmelades. To that purpoe,
when the Bufines requires dipatch, the Sugar mut boil, till
it be crack'd, or at leaft, greatly Feathered; to be incorporated
with the dried Fruit. Afterwards, the Marmelade being made
: according to Art ; may be taken up with a Spoon, and dres'd
upon Slates, or in Moulds, in order to be dried in the Stove,
with a good Fire,
- t.
In the Evening,A ora 3the next
. Day, mut
they
82 New Instructions for Confectioners.
mut be turn'd on the other fide, and laid again upon the fame
Slates, orupon Sieves: As foon as thee Pastes are become very
firm and compat, they are to belock'd up in Boxes, and may be
us'd, as Occaion requires. -

At other times, when you would have any Paste dryed, ler
as much Marmelade, as you hall think fit, be put into a Cop
per-pan, and having caus'd fome Sugar to be brought to its Fea
thered Quality, pour it in; tempering it well till it flips off
from the bottom of the Pan; after the fame manner, as in the
making of Marmelade. Then let all fimper together,for a while,
andlerthe Pate be immediately dres'd upon Slates, or in Tin
moulds, made inform of a Heart, Square, Flower-de-luce, &c.
which are uually fet into the Stove, to be dried as before.
Thee are the general Diretions that may be given, for the
ordering of uch Fruit-pates as are made of Marmelades; al
lowing two Pounds of Sugar, for every Pound of Fruit. Bus
for other Pates, that are made on purpoe, an equal quantity
of each will be ufficient, and the Sugar mut be boil'd till it
has attain'd to its Crack'd Quality. .

Pastes of green Apricocks.


Let your green Apricocksbe prepar'd, and made into a Pate,
according to the Method laid down for the Marmelade ofthe fame
Pag: 77. Then your Sugar being boil'd tillit become Crack'd,
mut beincorporated with the Pate; allowing a Pound of one,
for the like quantity of the other. Afterwards, let all fimper
together, and at the fame time dres your Pate, as before;
in regard that it will not keep long, by reaon of it aptnes to
grow greay. -

The Pates of green Almonds, ifany are made, may be pre


pared after the ame manner.
Cherry-pastes.
The Cherry-cakes decribed under the Article of that Fruit,
Pag. 3o. may be now us'd to very good purpoe, but when they
are out of Seaon, fome Marmelade of Cherries is to be taken;
which, being cool'd and boil'd again in new Sugar, that is Fea
thered, as it has been already hinted, may be order'd with a
Spoon, and fer into the Stove to be dried. When this Paste is
turn'd on the other fide, it must be lightly trew'd with Sugar
Put,
AVen Instructions for C7Foner. 83
put into a Handkerchief, and it willappear finer, being dres'd
the firt fide uppermot, to be ferv'd up to Table.
Paffes of Currans.
Let your Currans be fet over the Fire, to caue them to cat
their Juice, and laid upon a Sieve, when cool'd: Let them alo
be train'd thro' the fame Sieve, and dried over the Fire, whilft
an equal quantity of Sugar, that is to ay, a Pound for every
Pound of Fruit, is brought to its Crack'd Quality, which is to
be incorporated with it, in the fame manner, as for making Mar
melade of Currans, explain'd Pag. 78. Thus the Paste may be
dres'd, after having caus'd it to# for a while, if you have
a mind to dry it at the fame time: Otherwife, let this Marme
lade be boil'd over again in other Crack'd or Feathered Sugar;
oberving, for the ret, what has been already deliver'd, upon
the like Occaion, concerning Fruit-pates, in general.
Rafberry-paste. -

The Body of this fort of Paste is uually made in the fame


manner, as for the Marmelade; that is to ay, with Currans,
and a few Handfuls of Rasberries, and the whole Work is fi
nih'd, as the former: Both thee forts are alo to be trew'd
with Sugar, as the Cherry-pate, as they are turning to be dried
on the other fide, and ought to be ferv'd up to with the
firt fide uppermot.
Pastes of ripe Apricocks.
Apricock-paste is uually made, as the Marmelade of the
fame, pecified Pag. 78. or elfe the Apricocks may only be
fcalded at first, as the rest of the Fruits, without Sugar. If
your Apricocks are not thoroughly ripe, they mut bebruis'd, as
much as is poible, and even pounded in a Mortar. After
wards, the Sugar mut be boil'd, till it become Crack'd; that is
to fay, a Pound for every Pound of Fruit, and temper'd with
the Pate that has been well dried over the Fire. Then, having
caus'd it to fimper, dres it as the others, in rder to be dried
in the Stove. This Pate is not fo grateful to the Palate, when
kept for a confiderable time; becaue it is apt to grow greafy,
as that of green Apricocks,
Aa 4 Plumn
84 New Instructions for Confettioners.
Plum-paste.
This Paste may be made of dried Marmelade of Plums;
utting to it, fome new Feathered Sugar, as it has been intima
ed, in the beginning: Or elfe having prepar'd your Fruit, that
is to fay, train'd and dried it, caue it to be incorporated with
Crack'd Sugar. Afterwards, let all fimper together, and let the
Pates bedres'd after the uual manner. - ,

Pastes of Apples and Pears.


Scald thee Fruits in Water, as the former, and when they
are become oft, let them be drain'd, pas'd thro' a Sieve, and
dried ever the Fire; tirring them with a Spatula, both on the
bottom and round about, left they hould burn. When the
Pate lips off from the bottom and fides of the Pan, remove it
from the Fire, and caue fome Sugar to be greatly Feathered,
or Crack'd ; which mut be well temper'd with it; allowing a
Pound of Fruit, for the like quanity of Sugar. , Afterwards,
fet your Pate again over the Fire, to fimper, and dresit, as th
others, with a Spoon, either upon Slates, or in Moulds, put
ting them into the Stove, at the fame time, to be dried.

Pastes of roasted Apples and Pears.


Thee forts of Pates may be made at all times, and more
epecially during the Winter-eaon: To that purpoe, your
Apples, or Pears being well roated, take that Part of them
is reddih and mot done, and train it thro' a Sieve :
Then let as many Pounds of Sugar, as of Fruit, be brought to
the crack'd degree of Boiling, and let the Work be finih'd, af:
ter the ame manner, as for all other forts of Pastes. "
Peach-paste.
When the Peaches are omewhat ripe, they may be orderd,
according to either of thoe Ways, expres'd for ripe Apricocks,
Pag. 83. And as for the Pate of green Peaches, it is only re
quifite to follow the Diretions given, for green Apricocks,
Pag. 82.
Reine
New Instrutions for Confectioners. 85

Ouince-paste.
Take the yellowet and foundest Quinces that can be pro
cur'd, pare them, and cut out the Cores, if you hall think fit,
or elfe'ler all be left; contenting your felf, only to cut the
Quinces into quarters: Then, having caus'd fome Water to
boil over the Fire, throw in your Fruit, and let them be boil'd,
till they become very oft, in order to be drain'd upon a Hurdle
or Grate, and thro' the Hair-fieve. Afterwards, the Paste ,
mut be fet over the Fire again, to be dried, and temper'd with
Crackd Sugar, to the quantity of fomewhat more than a
Pound, for every Pound of Fruit. Lastly, you mut caue your .
Pate, to fimper, for a while, and to be dres'd, as the others.
Orange-paste,
This Pate is uually made as Orange-Marmelade, according
to the Method explain'd underthat Article,Pag. 79,and 8o. orele
of the Marmeladeit felf, asit has been already declard, in treat
ing of the Fruit-pates, in general; that is to ay, it mut be
-incorporated with new Sugar, brought to irs Feathered Quali
ty, till it flips off from the bottom of the Pan: Then, having
caus'd it to fimper, dres it after the uual manner, to be dried
in the Stove. Thus Orange-pates may be prepar'd at all times,
provided there be a contant Supply of the Marmelade; which
: will keep very well for that purpoe, and for the making of
. Conferves.

- Lemmon-paste.
| . For this Article, recoure may alo be had to the Lemmon
Marmelade, decribed Pag. 8o. if you have nene ready made
in the Repoitory : But if there be any left, you need only re
new it, with Feathered Sugar, as in the preceding Article, and
having caus'd your , or Pate to fimper, a littlewhile,
dres it with a Spoon, upon the Slates, or in Moulds, fo as ir
may conveniently bedried in the Stove.

rafe
36 New Instruitions for Confeifioners.

Pastes of Orange-flowers.
Take pure Marmelade of Orange-flowers,or the otherfort pe
cified, Pag. 8o, and 81. accordingly as Occaion may ferve ; and
for the ret, follow the fame Method that is us'd in ordering the
former forts of Pate. For want of Marmelade, take Orange
flowers, which are to be prepar'd, as for the fame Marmelade
and mingle them with any other Marmelade, that you mai
judge to be most proper for that purpoe, as in the following
Article. - -

Violet-paste.
After having made Syrup of Violets, take the gros Subtance
that is left, and mingle it with the fame quantity of Pearled
Sugar : So that whenever you are minded to dry the Pate, it
will only e requifite to incorporate it, with as much Marme
lade of Lemmons, or of Apples, as is needful ; adding ome
Feathered Sugar, and caufing all to be well intermix'd: Then
let your Pate fimper for ome while, and dres it after the uual
I manner, to be dried in the Stove. -

If you have no thick Substance of Violets, the Flowers may


be us'd in their Seafon; which are to be pick'd and pounded in
a Stone-mortar, inorderto be mingled with either of the above
mention'd Marmelades, and as much Feathered Sugar, as is
requifice; till the Paste flipsoff from the bottom and fides of the
Pan: Then having caus'd all to fimper, let it be dres'd and dri
ed in the Stove as before. When thee Violet-pates are turn'd
zo be dried on the other fide, they mut be lightly trew'd with
Sugar put into a Handkerchief, and by that Means a greater
Luftre will be added to the Colour, an the first fide, being that
which is uppermot, when they are ferv'd up to Table ; as it
has been already intimated, in treating of the Pastes, of Cher
ries, Rasberries and Currans.
: Bel.grape-paste.
Having pick'd your Grapes off from the Bunches, throw them
nt hot Water, and let them boil till they break: Then let them
be drain'd upon a Sieve or Cullander, and fqueez'd hard, allat
once, to eparate the Grains and Skin. In the mean while,
- fome
New Instrastions for Confectioners. 57
fome green Apples are to be calded, and the Pates of both put
into a Copper-pan, to be brought again to their Colour, over
the Fire, and dried all together ; continually tirring and turn
ing them, till they begin to lip off from the fides of the Pan :
Then let them be incorporated with an equal quantity of Fea
thered Sugar, and dres'd upon Slates with a Spoon, to be dri
ed in the Stove, with a good Charcoal-fire : As thee Pates are
turn'd on the other fide, trew them with Sugar as the former,
and take care, that they be well harden'd. -

Another Way of making Pastes of Bell-grapes.


Take good Bell-grapes, and having caus'd them to cast their
Juice in a Copper-pan over the Fire, after the fame manner, as
Currans ; let them be drain'd upon a Sieve, and when cold,
pas'd through the straining Sieve... Then they are to be dried
over the Fire, and continually stirr'd on all Sides, with the Spa
tula; whilst your Sugar is boil'd tillit become Crack'd; allow
ing a Pound, forevery Pound of Fruit, in order to be inco
rated with the Paste; which ought to be dres'd upon Slates,
as the others, and dried in the Stove. On the next Morning,
or Evening, turn your Pastes, o as they may be dried in Sieves,
4 on the other fide, and hut them up in Boxes, with Paper, be
tween every Row. - -
|
|
i
Pastes of Mufcadine-grapes.
Pastes of Mufcadine-grapes, are uually made in the fame
z manner astheelat, or ele as thoe of Currans; o that, it were.
altogether needles to infit on them, any longer in this Place.

C H A P. XXV.
: Of the jellies of Fruits.
; Although it is a customary Pratice, only te make Jellies of
: certain peculiar Fruits; nevertheles they maybe alo pre
pard, with the most partof the others. To that purpoe, mea
e furesmaybetaken, from thoe that have been before occaionally
| de
88 New Instru#ions for Confestioners.
decrib'd, in treating of the Fruits, of which they are generally
made, viz. the Jellies of green Goosberries, white and red
Currans, Bell-grapes, &c. But for the more clear undertanding
of the whole Matter, it will be expedient, here to give a par
ticular Account of thee Jellies, beginning with that of Cher
TICS : - - |

felly of Cherries. - i

Take the best fort of Cherries, that are very ripe, and ex
tract their Juice by prefing them through a white Linnen-cloth,
or omething ele the like nature ; whilt the fame Weight of
Sugar, or omewhat les, is boil'd till it be crack'd : Then:
pour in your Cherry-juice, fterit has been train'd to render it |
more clear, and let all continue boiling; fo as the Scum may be i
carefully taken off, till the Syrup is brought again to a degree:
between Smooth and Pearled : At that very Intant, the Jelly :
will be made, which may alo be perceiv'd, when fome of it
taken up in a Spoon, or Ladle, falls in thick Drops ; or
elfe, by putting fome of the Drops upon a Plate, , from whence
they'll rie up, when cold. Afterwards, the Jelly may be pour'd :
into Pots or Glaes, taking off the thin Scum that ries on the
top , but thee Vefels ought to be left three Days, without co- i
vering; which mut be done at laft, with round pieces of Pa- ;
r. - };
The Juice extraed from Cherries, over the Fire, in order :
to make Pates and Marmelades, may likewife ferve for this :
fort of Jelly; if you have no mind to make ue of it for Rata- s
fiaz : And in regard, that this Juice would be only of a fome
what pale red Colour, it is expedient, to mingle it with a lit-
tle of that of Currans; or elfe, the Colour may be heightend i
with fome prepar'd Cochineal ; it may alo be of Ue,
in its natural Condition, when red Colours, more, or les deep, .
are
liketo be repreented, in- a- -Pan-pie,
nature. - - or any other Device, of the :
, i

Jellies of Gooeberries and curran.


The particular Way of making a Jelly of green Goole ;
berries has been already explain'd, Pag, 33. as alo feveral Me-
thods of preparing thoe of Currans, Pag. 34, 35.
: - -
-. ,|
- - *
' Ret
New Instructions for Confectioners. 89

Rafberry-jelly.
Some mention has likewife been made of the manner of or
dering this kind of Jelly, Pag. 35. under the Article of Cur-
ran-jelly, with a Tinture of Rasberries : To that purpoe, t is
requiite to provide four Pounds of Rasberrirs, with two of
Currans, and five of Sugar; which being brought to its Crack'd
Quality, the Fruits mut be thrown in, and boil'd together, till
the Scum ceaes to rife, and the Syrup has attain'd to a degree
of Boiling, between Smooth and Pearled: Then let f be
into a Sieve fet over a Copper-pan, and a very fine Jel
y, will pas through, even without queezing the Fruit, if you
fhall think fit: At lat, having given it another Boiling, take
of the Scum, and dipoe of it in Pots, or other Vefels, after
the uual manner.

Jelly of Apples and other forts of Fruit.


Cut your Apples into pieces, and fet them over the Fire, in
a Copper-pan, with Water, to make a trong Decotion; cau
fing them to boil, till they turn, as it were to Marmelade. Then
having strain'd the Liquor through a Linnen-cloth, or a fine
Sieve; for every Quart of this liquor, takethree quarters of a
| Pound of crackd Sugar, in which all mut be lightly boil'd to
a degree between Smooth and Pearled; carefully taking off the
Scum. If it be requir'd to give the Jelly a red Colour, it mut
becover'd, as it is boiling; at the fame time, adding fome red
Wine, or prepared Cochineal: But if you would have the Jelly
- left white, as that of Pippins; nothing is to be put therein, nei
| ther ought it to be cover'd at all. - - -

| A Jelly may alo be made of Pears, and other forts of Fruit,


accordingly as it hall be judg'd expedient, by ufing the fame
| Method. / - -

Jily f Belgrari.
* Several Ways of preparing this Jelly, have been already ex
Plaind at large, Pag. 48. - - -

| K,

Ruinte:
9o , New Instructions for Confeioners.
Quince-jely.
, Quince-jelly is uually order'd after the fame manner, as in
the making of Marmelade of Quinces ; for which, recoure
may be had to the 49, and following Pages: or elfe, obferve
what has been even now deliverd, with repet to of
Apples; it being only requiite, toboil the Quinces a little long
er, toget a good Decoction of them.

-
-
other forts of Jellies.
. . . . - -

--
-
-

Another kind of Jelly, or rather thick Confection, is fome


times made in the Country, only with the Juice of Fruits, with
ut Sugar ; #
and Scumming it till it comes to the Confi
ftence of a Jelly: But in regard thar this Way is not extraordi
nary, nor conformable to the Rules f Art, it does not deferve a
ny farther Confideration. -

- ,

.

C H a r. xxvi.
Of Biskets.
B : are generally made in all seaons, andconstitute par: -

of the Entertainment throughoutthewhole Year. The bet


fort of them, are thee that follow, viz.
Almond liitti.
Having a Pound of weet Almonds, with quarier a
of a Poun of bitter ones, let them be blanch'd and pounded in :
a Mortar; tempering all from time to time, with the White of
an Egg, to hinder them from turning to Oil: When they are
well pounded, o that no Clods, or Lumps are left; tak out :
the Pate, and putit into oneScale of a Ballance, with the ame
Weight of Powder-ugar into the other, as alo fome Whites of
Eggs: Then knead and mingleall welltogetherina Copper-pan,
with the Spatula, or with your Hand, ifitbe neceary, as when 4
greaterquantity of it is to bemade; proportionablyaugmenting
- - the
|
New Instructions for Confectioners., 91
the Ingredients : Afterwards, take up ome of your Paste in a
a Spoon, with which you are to crape the Sides of the Pan,
drawing it towards your Body, with the Edge downwards, fo
as only to get an entire Spoonful; which will be ufficient to
make three or four of thee Biskets of the bredth of a Shilling,
or Copper Half-penny : To that end, take part of this Pate,
with the tip of your Finger, and having turn'd it upon the edges
of the Spoon, to make it of a round Figure; as it is pread
along your Finger, let it fall upon a fheer of Paper, provided
for that purpoe, ordering the ret of the Pate, after the fame
IIIaI1IlT. - -

To manage the Buines with greater Neatnes, ome of this


Pate may be taken up, with the blade of a Table-knife, and
without touching it with the Fingers, the Biskets may be drefs'd
with another Knife; taking as much Pate, as is requifite for
every one, from the firt, on which it was pread : When the
fheer of Paper is fill'd with them, at the ditance of about a Fin
ger's breadth, one from another, fet them into a Campain-ove
with Fire only at the top, at firt, and asoonas the Biskets be
gin to rie, and are ufficiently brought to a Colour, let ome
Fire be likewife put underneath, to make an end of Baking
them. Afterwards, anotherheer of Paper,
in the mean time, may be laid in the Oven, and fo on, till the
whole Mas of Pate is us'd. Thee Biskets may ferve for the
to dres Pyramids upon China-dihes, and
#garnihing of Dihes,
other Ufes. - -

Another Way of making Almond-hiikets.


Take about a quarter of a Pound of bitter Almonds with the
like quantity of weer ones, and having calded them in boiling
Water, let thembe blanch'd, without throwing them into frefi
Water: Then let them be pounded in a Mortar, without on
dropofany Liquor; fothattismo great matter,whether they turn;
to Oilor not: In the mean while, havingbearen up fourr five
Whites of Eggs at most with a Spoon, in an earthen Pan, put iti
ir your Almond-paste, and temperit well with a Spoon. After
wards, adding a Pound and two Ounces of ant
mingling all well together with the Spatula, let the Paste be
dres'd upon white Paper, with two Knives; preading it upon
one, and haping the Biskers with the other, thicknes of
the tip of your Finger. Ar last, they are to be fet into the O-'
- ven,

92 NETT Fruo for Confectioners.
ven, with a gentle Fire, in the beginning, but when they rife, :
it mut be made fomewhat quicker. As foon as they are bakd,
and have acquird a good Colour, they may be taken out of
the Oven, but mut not be cut off from the Paper till they are
cold, in order to be kept dry in the Stove.
Chocolate-biskets.

Scrape fome Chocolate upon the white of an Egg, but not too
much; becaue it is only requiiteto give it the Tate aud Co
lour of the Chocolate. Then take Powder-ugar, and mingle
it well with the ret of the Ingredients, till they become a pli
able Pate: Afterwards dres your Biskets, upon heets of Pa
r, in any Figure, that you hall think fit, and fet them into
the Oven, to be bak'd with a gentle Fire, as well on the top,
as underneath.

Orange and Lemmon-biskets.


Thee forts of Biskets are made after the fame manner, only
intead of Chocolate, fome grated Orange or Lemmon-peel is
to be us'd, with a little Marmelade, if thereis any at hand. O
ther Biskets of the like Nature may alo be prepar'd with O
range-flowers, and thoe of Jeamine, pounding them well,
before they are intermix'd with the other Ingredients.
Another Way of making Orange-biskets.
Let ome old Orange-pate, with fome dried Pulp of Orari
es and Lemmons, be well pounded in a Mortar, and let the
Whitesoffour Eggsbe whipt, asit were, for the making of Savoy
biskets: Then flip in the four Yolks, which are alo to be well
whipt and add three good Handfuls of Powder-ugar; .
ftirring the whole Mas with a Spoon : Afterwards throwing in
a Handful of Flower, ftir all again, with the Marmelade, al
ready poundedin a Mortar, to the quantity of about a Pound;
and et all be well beaten with the Spoon. In the mean time,
certain Moulds being made of white Paper, an Inch thick, the
Confetion is to be laid on them, and fet into the Oven, with
out Icing; but a quick Fire ought to be made, both on the top,
and underneath. As foon as the Biskets are bak'd, they muft
beturn'd upfide down, and the Paper is to be gently taken a
-- way
*a
New Instruitions for Confioners, 9; .
way from the bottom, fo as they may be conveniently cut into
fquare Pieces, as tuffd March pane, and fet by to cool. Some
time after, they may be ic'd on one fide, with Orange-flower
water, and on the other, if it be thought fit, with another Co
lour, and at lat the Ice mut be bak'd, with the Lid of the
Campain-oven.
Savoy, or French Biskets.
s Take three or four New-laid Eggs, or more, according to
the quantity of Biskets that you would have made, and having
provided a pair of Scales, put your Eggs into one of them, as
alfo, fome bak'd Flower into the other; fo as there may be an
equal Weight of both. Thus for Example, If four Eggs were
put in, one is to be taken out, and the three others left. In the
mean while, ome Powder-ugar is to be provided of the fame
Weight as the Eggs, the Whites of which are to be taken, to
make the tronget Snow that poibly can be, by whipping them
well with a Whisk: To this is to be added, at firt, fome can
i dy'd Lemmon peel, grated, or beaten as it were to Powder,
| and then the Flower that was weighd before. All being thus
mingled together, let the Sugar be put in, and after having beat
en the whole Mas again a little while, add the Yolks of the
: Eggs; fo as the Pastemay be well temper'd. The Biskets may .
be made upon Paper, with a Spoon, of a round, or oval Fi
gure, and neatly ic'd with Powder-ugar, after having wahd
them over with the Whites of Eggs. Afterwards, you are to
blow off the Sugar that lies upon the Paper, and caue the Bis
kets to be bak'd in an Oven, that is not over-heated; giving
them an agreeable Colour, on the top. When they are done
enough, they mut be cut off from the Paper, with a very thin
Knife, and may ferve to fet off Fruit, or for the garnihing of
Pies, or Tarts. - -

Some do not allow fo many Whites of Eggs, and of fix that


have been weigh'd, only take two, to make the rocky Snow ;
but this is an indifferent Matter. The Lemmon-peel may like
wife be dipened with ; as alo, the baking of the Flower, and
yer the Biskets will prove good: However, for fix Eggs, it is
requifite to ue Sugar, to the weight of four,

Bb - . Ano
94 New Instructions for Confn.
Another Way of making French Biskets.
Let the Whites and Yolks of eight Eggs be fet by eparately,
and let the former be well whipt, till they rife up to a Snow :
Then let the Yolks of nine Eggs be flipt in, and let all be
whipt again ; adding a Pound of Powder-ugar, and beating
them well with the Spatula : Let three quarters of a Pound of
Flower be alo weigh'd out, and put to the Mas, continuing
to bear it with the Spatula ; a little grated Lemmon-peel ma
likewife be added, if you pleae, to heighten the Relih. In the
mean while, certain Tin-moulds being provided, are to be
wah'd over, a little, on the infide, with freh Butter melted,
or ele the Moulds may be made with Cards, which mut not
be butter'd: But the Paper on which the Biskets are laid, must
be rubb'd with the ame Paste, to the end that the Mouldsmay
ftick to it. If you have a mind to make mall Biskets of this
fort, they may be dres'd with a Spoon, upon white Paper, of
the bignes of a Half-crown Piece, and ic'd with Powder-u
f ar, which is to be trew'd upon them, and blown off a little,
muchof it, hould be left on the top. Afterwards, the
are to be fet into a Baker's Oven, moderately heated, and to
that end, a tryal may be made with a fingle Bisket: But care
ought to be taken, that they do not languih in the Oven, and
as foon as they are drawn, the Moulds mut be taken away;
or the heer of Paper, if the Biskets are mall, which may #:
done, by flipping a Knife underneath; for ifthey were cold

they could not be any longer cut off, without breaking the Ice.
Lisbon-biskets.
Take three or four Eggs, according to the quantity of Bis
kets deign'd to be made, and beat the Whites a little with the
Yolks; adding as much Powder-ugar, as can well be taken
up between your Fingers, at four or five times, with Lemmon
peel, and four or five Spoonfuls of bak'd Flower. When this
Confetion is well temper'd together,, let it be turn'd upon
a heet of Paper trew'd with Sugar, and after having likewife
ftrew'd the Pate on the top, with the fame Sugar, let it be
bak'd in an Oven, moderately heated. As foon as the Biskets
are taken out, they must be cut all at once, with the Paper un
derneath, according to the Size and Figure, that you * :
aVe
New Instructions for Confectioners. 95
have them to be of and then the Paper may be gently cur off,
with a Pen-knife, for fear of breaking any part # them, which
is foon done, becaue they ought to be very dry.
Light Icd-biskets.
Having provided three quarters of a Pound of bitter Almonds,
with one quarter of a Pound of weet Ones, ler them be cald
ed, blanch'd and pounded in a Mortar, as mch as is poible;
two Whites of Eggs, at feveral times. Then let all be
infenibly mingled, with four Pounds of Powder-fugar, and well
beat together, till the Paste becomes very pliable. Afterwards,
this Pate mut be fqueez'd through a Syringe, one Roll after
another, and the Biskers are to be made of it, cutting that
which paes through, and is received upon a heet of Paper,
according to any length that you hall think fit; either into
large, or mall Pieces. Thee Papers of Biskets are to be laid
upon a Board, and the Oven-lid with Fire on the top, to give
them a Colour, on that fide: As foon as you perceive them to
be done enough, and that they are confiderably puffd up, take
away the Fire, and having gently flip'd them off from the Pa
per, caue them to be ic'd on that fide, which lay undermot.
This Ice is uually made, with the White of an Egg and Sugar,
well temperd and beaten together, tillit turns almot to a kind
of Pap: Then it may be pread upon the Biskets with a Knife, \
and dried with a gentle Fire, till it is thoroughly coagulated.
Thee forts of Biskets may alo be cover'd with an Ice, made
of weet Water, or ome other Water and Sugar beaten and
temperd together, as the former.
common Bilkets.
Break fix or eight Eggs, and having flipt the Whites and
Yolks into an earthen Pan, or Bafon; beat them well for fome ,
time, with the Spatula : Then adding a Pound of Powder-u
gar, with as much Flower, let all be well mingled together,
and dres your Pate in Paper-cafes, or Tin-moulds, in any
Form or Figure, that you hall judge mot expedient. After
wards, let the Biskets be Ic'd, trewing them with fine Sugar,
put into an Handkerchief, and er into an Qven moderately
eated, till they rife, and come to a good Colour: When they
are ufficiently take de with the point of a Knife
- 2, 3.Il
96 New Instruitions for Confeifioners.
and make an end of drying them in the Stove, or fome other
Place, convenient for that purpoe,
Biskets for Lent.
This fort of Bisket is made with Gum-dragant, teept in the
fame manner as hall be hereafter explain'd for Patils, Pag. I oA.
Having caus'd the Gum-water to be well tirr'd about, add
fome Powder-ugar, continuing to whip all together, as it is
ftrewing in, till the Liquor becomes as thick as Pap. If you
are minded to mix Marmelade, with this Pate, as in making
the Bifcotins; by that means it will be render'd fo much the
richer, and have a greater Confitence, whereas, otherwie it
is only a Compound of Sugar and Wind. They may alo be
made, as the light Biskets above pecified ; only retrenching
the Whites of Eggs, in the place of which the Gum is to be
fubtituted, and a fomewhat les quantity of Almonds is to be
us'd in preparing the Pate. Thefe Biskets may be dres'd how
you pleae, and bak'd as the former.

craciling-bideti. |
The fame fort of Paste is to be us'd, as for the Savoy-biskets,
being brought to a due Confitence, with four Eggs, and aug |
mented with three or four Handfuls of Powder-ugar : Then
having caus'd all to be well temper'd with a Spoon, let them
be dres'd, as the Biskets of bitter Almonds, and bak'd in the
Campain-oven; with more Fire of the top, than underneath.
When they are taken out, the heet of Paper mut be turn'd up
fide down, and laid under a wet Napkin, to the end that the
Biskets may be clear'd from it ; for if the Paper be not wet, it
cannot poibly be done, by any other means. Afterwards, the
Biskets are likewife to be laid upfide down upon other white
Paper, and fet into the Stove; but they mut not bedres'd on
the Dihes, before they are ready to be ferv'd up to Table ;
becaue they are too apt to give, and contrat Moitnes.
Bifcotins.
Take three Whites of Eggs, four Spoonfuls of Powder-ugar,
and one of any kind of Marmelade particularly, of Oranges,
Lemmons, Apricocks, &c. The rest of the Confetion is
New Instructions for Confectioners. 97
be made of fine Flower, which you are to knead all together,
till the Pate becomes very pliable, and then make your Bifco
tins of different Figures, viz. ome round, others long, others
in form of Love-knotsy Ciphers, and other pretty Devices :
They ought to be bak'd with a gentle Fire, and taken out of the
Oven, as foon as you perceive them to have acquird a fome
what brown ruffet Colour : To clear them from the Paper,
wer the heet on the back-fide with Water, and the Bufineswill
be eafily effeted, but it mut be done immediately after they
are drawn.

Another fort of Bicotin.


Having caus'd half a Pound of Sugar to boil in a little Cop
per-pan, or Skillet, till it become Feathered, remove it from
the Fire, and throw in three quarters of a Pound of Flower,
except one Handful, which is to be reerv'd, to work it upon
the Table: Then tir all about with the Spatula, and when the
Pate is well temperd, take it out of the Pan, in order to be
laid upon a very clean Table, or Dreffer-board, trew'd before
with a little Sugar: The Paste mut alo be trew'd, both on
the top, and underneath, with prepared Musk and Powder
fugar, and continually work'd, whilt it is hot: At the fame
tirne, it mut be roll'd out, and cutinto Pieces, to make certain
little Balls, of the thicknes of a Man's Thumb; which mut be
fpeedily done, in regard that when the Pate is cold, it will no
longer take effet. Thee Balls are to be bak'd in an Oven,
without Paper, but afterwards fome mut be put underneath,
when they are ready to be fet into the Stove. Y

C H A p. XXVII.

Of March-panes.
MA pane: confit of a fort of Pate made of Almonds and
Sugar, and are in Ufe, as well as Biskets, during the
whole Coure of the Year: Only they may be diverified in the
feveral Seaons, with different Marmelades, according to the
variety of Fruits ; as it will more plainly appear, from the fol
lowing Intrutions. Bb 3 Com

|
98 New Instructions for Confectioners.

Common March-panes.
The Almonds are to be firt fcalded in hor Water, and tos'd
into other cold Water, as they are : Then being wip'd,
and drain'd, they mut be pounded in a Marble-Mortar, and
moiten'd from time to time, with the White of an Egg, to hin
der them from turning to Oil. In the mean while, let half as
much clarified Sugar, as Pate, boil, till it become Feather
ed, and let the Almonds be thrown in by Handfuls, or ele the
Sugar may be pour'd upon them, in another Vestel : After
wards, let all be well incorporated together, with the Spatula ;
carefully stirring the Paste to the bottom, and round about, left
it hould tick to the Pan, even tho' it were remov'd from the
Fire. You may know when this Pate is done enough, by
paffing the Back of your Hand overit, till nothingsticksthere
to; at which instant, it mut be laid upon Powder-ugar, and
fet by to cool: To work it, you are to roll out feveral Pieces,
of a convenient. Thicknes, out of which your March-panes
mut be cut, with certain Moulds; gently flipping them off,
with the tip of your Finger, upon Sheets of Paper; in order to
be bak'd in the Oven, fo as the Fire may heat them at firt, on
ly on one fide: Afterwards, the other fide is to be Ic'd over,
and bak'd in like manner: Thus the March-panes are uually
made of a round, long, or oval Figure ; or jagged, in
the Shape of a Heart, e. The Pate may alo be roll'd ut,
or fqueez'd thro a Syringe; o that the will have
as many particular Namcs, altho' they differ only in Shape, and
in the manner of Icing them ; as it may hereafter, be more
clearly oberv'd.
Another fort of Paste for March-panes.
Aster having blanch'd, cool'd and drain'd your Almonds, as
before, let them be pounded in a Mortar, and moiten'd with
the White of an Egg, and a little Orange-flower-water beat
en together. As foon as they are thoroughly pounded, fothat
there does not remain the leaft Clod, or Lump, an equalquan
tity of Sugar mut be brought to its feather'd Quality :
throwing in your Almonds, temper all together, with the Spa
tula, and fet the Pate over again, to be dried; conti
i tring tilfitbecomesplabi anipsofiromthego
- - TOM
*

New Instructions for Confeiioners._99


tom of the Pan: Afterwards, it mut be laid in a Baon, with
Powder-ugar underneath, and made up into a thick Roll, to
be fet by, for a little while, as the former; in order to be
hap'd and drefs'd, in the fame manner.
This lat fort of Pate is more crackling and more grateful to
the Palate than the former, and in that repet, it may be plain
ly diftinguih'd from the common March-panes.
Another fort of March-pane.
The Almonds are to be pounded, as before, and moisten'd
with the White of an Egg and Orange-flower-water, or fome
otherfort: The only difference is, that thisPate muitbe drawn
out, and dried in a Bafon, with Powder-ugar, till it becomes
very pliable, as it were ordinary Pafte; o that after it has been
fet by, for fome while, feveral Rolls may be made, of any
thicknes, which hall be judg'd expedient; out of which the
March-panes are to be cut, and hap'd, accordingto Dicretion.
Royal March-pane.
The Paste of thisMarch-pane is the ame with that of the pre
ceeding, a Piece of which is to be roll'd out upon the Table, or
Dreffer, a Finger's breadth thick, and divided into as many
Parts, as are requiite to make feveral Wreaths, or Rings round
about your Finger,cloing the two ends,fo as they may flip out,or
be feparated again: Thee Rings are to be dipt into the White
of an Egg, with which a Spoonful of Marmelade of Apricocks
has been intermix'd, and afterwards roll'd in Powder-ugar :
But you mut not forgetto blow upon them, as they are taking
out, o that too much may not be left, and to lay them
On aper, in order to be bak'd in the Campain-oven, with Fire
underneath, and on the top, becaue at that Instant, they are
ic'd on both fides: Then a fort of Puff will rife in the middle,
as it were in form of a Coronet, producing a very agreeable
Effect; to render which more certain, as the March-panes ar
drefing, you upon the void pace of thee Rings, a lit
tle round Pellet of the fome Pate, or a mall grain of Fruit,
- ,
"", Rasberry, Pistachoe, or any Thing of the
4 e -

- Bb 4 * Orange
/

1oo New Instructions for Confeioners.

Orange-flower March-pane.
The Almonds being pounded and moiten'd with the White
ofan Egg, are to be well temper'd with Feathered Sugar, ad
ding a Spoonful of Orange flower-marmelade ; or you may
conient your elf only to mingle it with the Ice, with which
they are cover'd, to be diverified : For the ret, the fame
Method is to be oberv'd, as in preparing the common March
panes. Thus for Instance, Half a Pound of Sugar may be uf
ficient for a Pound of Almond-pate, and the Pate mut always
be fet by, for ome time, before it is us'd. For want of the
Marmelade of Orange-flowers, prinkle your Almonds as they
are blanch'd, with a little Water of the fame Flowers, and
ound in a Mortar, ome Orange-pulp that is preerv'd Liquid;
in order to be mix'd with the Almonds, or to contitute the Bo
dy of your Ice : But the Pate ought to be dried at the Fire,
by rea of the Orange-flower-water.

Lemmon March-pane.
Intead of what has been even now deliver'd in the lat Ar
ticle, thee March-panes are to be diverified with Lemmon
marmelade, or with the Pulp of preerved Lemmons pounded
in a Mortar: or elfe a little grated Lemmon-peel may only be
intermix'd, either with the pounded Almonds, before they are
put into the Sugar, or with the Ice. But this Peel ought to be
grated very fine, and well beaten with the White of the Egg
and the Sugar. -

March-panes, with a Tiniture of Raberries, or other forts


of Fruits. - -

During the Seaon of Fruits, more epecially the red, your


may be diverified, feveral other Ways; by tem
ing ome of them, with the Juice of Rasberries, and others
with thoe of Currans, Strawberries, Cherries, &c. But cb
ferve by the way, That if thoe Juices are us'd, for the foaking
of your Almonds, when they are pounded with the White of
an Egg, the Paste ought to be well dried at the Fire, or ele it
muft be done with Powder-fugar, as in the third Article. . '
- - Iced
- - -

N
New Instruitions for Confeiioners. Ior

Iced March-panes.
When any forts of March-pane, that is to ay, the round,
long, oval, or curled, are ufficiently bak'd and colour'd, on
one fide, they are to be gently cut off from the Paper, with a
Knife, and ic'd on the other fide, that lay undermot ; accord
ing to either of the following Methods.
Having provided a ufficient quantity of weet Water, either
of Orange-flowers, or fome other fort; orele the above-men
tion'd Juices and Marmelades, according to the Quality, which
you are minded to confer on your March-panes; intermixthem
by degrees with fine Powder-ugar, and temper all well toge
ther, till they come to the conitence of Pap: Then taking up
fome of this Ice, with a Knife, pread it neatly upon the March
panes, and fet them again in order, upon Paper, with the O
ven-lid, and a little Fire on the top, to caue the Ice to coagu
late. Afterwards,they may be lock'd up in Boxes, and kept for
Ufe.
The other fort of Ice is made only with the White of an Egg
and Powder-ugar, or mingled with fome kind of Marmelade;
compleating and uing ir, as the former. At another time, both
thee forts of Ice may be prepar'd ar once, to diverifie part of
| the March-panes; when different Figuresare made of the fame
Pate, to the end that they may be more eaily ditinguihed
one from another. *

Stuff'd March-pane.
Having made the fame fort of Pate as that of Royal March
pane, work it well upon a Table, or Dreffer, with Powder-
fugar, and roll our a Piece, as thin asis poible, trewing fome
Sugar underneath,to hinder the Pate from ticking to the Board:
Then having divided it into two Parts, and cut it a little round
about, fpread any fort of Marmelade at pleaure, upon one of
them, of the thicknes of a Half-crown, and cover it with the
other : Afterwards, you are to cut the Pate into great,orfmall
Pieces, according, to Dicretion, and lay them in order upon
White Paper, to be bak'd on one fide, with the Oven-lid : As
foon as they have taken Colour, fet them by to cool, and ice
them over on the other fide, with the White of an Egg, beaten
up with Powder-ugar; orele with Orange-flower-water, tem
per'd
zo2 New Instrations for Confestioners.
perd in like manner with the fame Sugar : Some time after,
. they are to be laid Paper again, and the baking of them
finih'd upon the Table, with the Oven-lid, as before. Cer
tain little Pies, er Tarts may alo be made with the fame
Paste ; to which purpoe, taking a Piece as thick as a Walnut,
shape it with your Thumb and Fore-finger, the tip of which
thay just enter into it, and work it very thin : Thee little Pies
are to belaid upon Paper, and gently bak'd in the Oven, with
a little Fire, in the beginning, on the top, and underneath, till
they come to a Colour; and then fill'd with a preerv'd Cher
ry, Rasberry, , or Grape, or any kind of Marinelade : They
may alo be ic'd, if you pleae, and the Ice is to be bak'd wit
the Oven-lid ; but they must only be fill'd, as Occaion re
quires.

C H A P. XXVIII.
N of Meringaes and Macaroons.
Ti lis mall Sugar-work is of great Ue, and very eafily pre
pard : It is alo very convenient in an Office, in regard
that it may be made in a trice, after the following Manner.
|
Meringues in Pairs.
Take three or four new-laid according to the quanti
of Meringues, that you would have made, and fet a-part
the Whites, to be whipt, till they make a rocky Snow. . Then
let a little grated Lemmon-peel be put into it, and three or
four Spoonfuls of Powder-ugar : A little Amber may alo be
added, and the whole Mais mut be whipttogether, till it be
come very Liquid. Afterwards, you may make your Merin
gue, upon a Sheet of white Paper, with a Spoon, of a round or
val Figure, and of the thicknes of a Walmut ; leaving fome
ditance between every one of them : At the fame time, {
are to be strew'd with fine Sugar put into a Handkerchief,
cover'd with the Oven-lid, with Fire on the top; withour re
moving them from the Table: they'll immediate
ly rife and take Colour, leaving a void pace in the m WIllC
*
:
New Instruitions for Confestioners. 1o3
which may be fill'd up, with a grain of preerv'd Fruit, accor
ding to the Seaon, fuch as a Rasberry, Cherry, Strawberry,
Sc. At lat, every one of them is to be cover'd with another
Meringue, enclofing the whole Substance, and thee are call'd
Twin-Meringues.

Dry Meringues.
Having caus'd the Whites of four new-laid Eggsto be whipt,
as before, till they rie up to a Snow, let four Spoonfuls of ve
ry dry Powder-ugar, be put into it, and well temper'd with a
Spoon : Then let all be fet over a gentle Fire, to be dried a
little at two feveral times, and add ome Pitachoes, that are
pounded and dried a little in the Stove. . Afterwards, they are
to be dres'd as the others, and bak'd in the Oven fomewhat
leifurely, with a little Fire underneath, and more on the top :
When they are ufficiently done, and very dry, let them beta
ken out, and cut off with a Knife: Laftly, as foon as they are
fomewhat cold, let them be laid upon Paper, and fet into the
Stove to be kept dry.

Pistachoe-Meringues.
Take a Handful, or two of Pistachoes, and blanch them in
fcalding Water: Afterwards, having whipt the Whites of Eggs,
as for the other forts of Meringues, and having beat them toge
ther with the Powder-ugar, put in the Pitachoes, well drain'd
from the Water, and make the Meringues, with a Spoon, of
what thicknes you hall think fit, icing them over in the fame
manner: If you have no mind to ice them, their natural Co
lour will be as white as Paper; but a Pitachoe must be al- ,
low'd for every one of the Meringues which will ferve for the
garnihing of Pies made of Crackling Cruft, and alo to Dres
Pyramids upon the China-dihes, for the Deert.
AMacaroons.

Macaroons are a particular Confetion of weet Almonds,


ugar, and the White of an Egg, and to make them it is
requifite to provide a Pound of Almonds; which are to be
fcalded, blanch'd, and thrown into fair Water : Afterwards,
they mut be drain'd, wip'd and pounded in a Mortar; moi
To4 New Instruitions for Confestioners.
ftening them at the fame time, with a little Orange-flower-wa
rer, or the Whiteofan Egg, left they hould turn to Oil. Then
taking the fame quantity of Powder-ugar, with three or four
other Whites of Eggs, beat all well together, and dres your
Macaroons upon Paper, with a Spoon, in order to be bak'd
with a gentle Fire: When they are halfdone, they may be ic'd
over at Pleaure, as the March-panes; or they may be bak'd
outright, without Icing, as the Savoy-biskets, or thoe of bitter
Almonds, which they very much reemble in their Nature and
Quality. -

C H A P. XXIX.
Of Pastils.
|
PAstik are alo a kind of Sugar-pate, of which there are e
veral forts, uually dres'd upon China-dihes, to fer off a
Deert, or Banquet of Sweet-meats.

Cinnamon-pastils.
:
Let ome Gum-dragant be diolv'd in Water, pour'd into a
Pot, or earthen Pan; that is to ay, one Ounce of it will be fuf
ficient for four Pounds of Sugar. At the end of two or three
Days, when the Gum is well teept and stirr'd about with a
Spoon, it must be strain'd thro a clean Linnen-cloth, to eparate
all the Dros from it. Then this Gum-water being put into a
Mortar, with one or two Whites of Eggs, all mut be well
incorporated with fomeCinnamon beatenvery mall, and pasd
thro a fine Sieve. , Afterwards, ome Powder-ugar must like
wife be fifted thro a fine Sieve, and mingled with the rest, by
little and little; continuing to temper all together, till the Paste
become very pliable: At that Instant, the Patils may be made
of a round, or long Figure, or of any Shape whatoever; and
if you have any Seals, or Ciphers at Hand, an Impreion may
be made with them, upon the Patils ; which afterwards are
to be dried in the Stove.

FJYhite
New Instructions for Confectioners. 15
White Pastils.
The Gum is to be first steept in a little Water, with the Juice
of three or four Lemmons, and the Xests, or Chips that were
made of them. At the end of two or three Days, when you
perceive the Gum to be well diffoly'd, strain it thro' a clean
Linnen-cloth, as before, and pour it into the Mortar, with dou
ble refind Powder-ugar, fifted thro' the Drum or fine Sieve:
After having thrown in the firt Handful of Sugar, let the whole
Mas be well work'd and beaten, and add another Handful;
continuing to beat and temper your Compound on all fides, as
it is augmenting with Sugar, till you have a very white and
pliable # ; with which the Patils are to be made, according
to the former Method, and dried in the Stove.

- Orange-flower Pastils.
Thee forts of Patils are uually prepar'd after the fame man
ner ; only fome Leaves of Orange-flowers, and Water of the
fame, are to be intermix'd with the Lemmon-juice, in which the
Gum is teept.

Apricock-pastils.
Intead of Gum-dragant take Gum-Arabick, which is dif
folv'd a great deal fooner, and having caus'd it to be teept and
ftrain'd thro' a Linnen-cloth, pourit into a Mortar, with Syrup
of Apricocks: Then let all be well temper'd together, andaug
: mented with Sugar, at feveral times, till the Pate becomes pli
1 able, in order to make round Patils, which are dried in the
Stove, to be made white, if you hall think fit, in the wide Pan,
after the fame manner as Sugar-plums. .
Violet-pastils, and other forts.
The fame fort of Gum-Arabick is to be ued for thee Patils;
becaue they are uually made white in the Sugar-plum Pan, as
well as the following Clove-patils. To give them the Colour
and Smell of Violets; fome Indigo and Orrice is to be steept
in Water, and mingled with the Gum, when it is diolv'd and
pour'd into the Mortar: Afterwards, you are to add Er; fine
'. OW
16 New Instructions for Confeifioners.
Powder-ugar, work and temperthe whole Mas,
till it turns to a pliable Paste : Then round Patils mav be made
of it; or if defign'd for fine Sugar-plums, they may be hap'd
in form of Hearts, Diamonds, Clubbsand Spades by the means
ef a Tin-mould, in which thee Figures are expres'd, and at
lat thee Patils are to be made white, after they have been
thoroughly dried in the Stove.
- Clove-pastils. :

Having caus'd your Cloves to be well pounded and fifted


thro' the Drum, or fine Siev, mingle them in the Mortar,
with the steept Gum-Arabick; adding as much Sugar as is re
quifitetomake a pliable Paste: Thenroll out a lipofthis Pate,
s to be cut into little Pieces, in the hape of Cloves, which are to
be made white in the Sugar-plum Pan: Otherwife, gray Patils
maybe madeof them, as thoe of Cinnamon.

C H A p. XXX. -

Of the Caramel Sagar-work, and Candy'd Confits.


"Hefe two forts of Sugar-works are very curious, and may
be made upon feveral Occaions for the embellihing of a
Deert, according to the following Instructions.
Candyd Cinnamon.
Cut your Cinnamon in form of final larding flips of Bacon,
as alo of the fame bignefs, and put them into thin Sugar, over
the Fire, fo as they may boil only in a little Syrup: Then re
moving the Pan, let them imbibe the Sugar, during five or fix
Hours, and let them lye a draining upon a Hurdle, or Grate
in the Srove. As foon as they are half dry, they mut be gent
ly taken off, and laidupon a Sieve in the fame Stove, to make
an end of drying them. Afterwards, they are to be fet in or
der in Tin-moulds, upon little Grates made for that purpoe,
and let into the Moulds; fo as three Rows may be plac'd one
above another, eparated with thoe little Grates; but a p : B
New Instrations for Confeifioners. 107
of Lead, or omewhat ele of the like nature must be laid on
the uppermost Grate, to keepall cloe stopt: In the meanwhile,
having caus'd a fufficient quantity of Sugar to boil till it is
Blown, pour it into your Mould, fo as fome of it may lie upon
the lat Grate, and pas thro' feveral parts of the Mould ; which
is to be fet into the Stove the next Evening, with a good co
ver'd Fire, and to continuetherein all Night: In the Morning,
oberve, whether the Cinnamon be well coagulated, and make
a little Hole, at one Corner of the Mould, fo as the Sugar may
be drain'd thro it: Then fet the Mould again into the Stove,
| upfide down, with a Plate underneath, when it is uffici
| ently drain'd, take out your Cinnamon-sticks, which mut be
ently looen'd, by little and little, and laid upon a Sieve, to
throughly dried in the Stove.
candyd Fennel.

Take Fennel run up to Seed, as foon as it comes from the


Flower, and having caus'dit to be well dried on a Board, cut
it into halves, or quarters, according to the thicknes of the
Stalk : Then lerit be calded and put into thin Sugar, ordering
it, for the rest of the Work, in the fame manner as the Cinna
mon. The fame thing may be done in the candying of pickt
Cherries, and old Pate, of Quinces, either
red or white, and of roated Pears, as alo Orange or Lem
mon-chips, Bell-grapes, Bifcotins, and Patils: But it is requi
fite, that all be well dried before, in the Stove, to ferve as a
proper Garniture for all forts of Fruit.
Sugar-candy.
The preceding Methods are only an Imitation of that of pre
paring Sugar-candy, the Virtue of which is o well known, in
the Curing of Defluxions and other Indipoitions of the Breast:
For it is made in like manner, by cauing Sugar to boil to the
Degree, call'd, Blown, and puting it into an earthen Pot, where
in cerrain mall Sticks are laid in order; round about which,
the Sugar coagulates, when fet into the Stove, with a Fire, as
before. SomeConfectioners, afterhaving taken away the first
Crust, fet the rest again into the Stove, till another is form'd,
and fo proceed, tillthe whole Work is finih'd ; more epecially ,
if the Sugar be boil'd over again, to caue it to return to its
- - - Blown

*--
18 New Instruions for Confefioners.
Blown Quality : Others, having laid thee little Sticksin Order,
fide-wife, cros-wife,orupright, pour in the Sugar, and leave all
for the pace of fifteen Days, in the Stove, or ome other warm
Place : Afterwards, having pour'd in hot Water, at feveral
times, they leave them again, for a whole Day, and breaking
the Pot, the next Morning, find the Sugar-candy round about
the Sticks; of which there are two forts, viz. White and Red:
The former being the bet, is uually prepar'd with Sugar
brought from the Canaries, and the other, with that of St.
Thomass Iland.

To make the Caramel Sugar-work.


One of the chief Ues of the Sugar-work, call'd, Caramel, is
to make a kind of Cap or Net, to cover a Service of Cheee
curds: To that purpoe, the Sugar mut be brought to the Ca
ramel, or laft Degree of Boiling, whilt a Plate, or China-dih
is provided of a convenient fize; upon which, everal forts of
fmall preerv'd Fruits areto be fet in order, at a certain distance,
one from another ; fuch as Cherries, Rasberries, Apricocks,
reen Almonds, Orange and Lemmon-lips, or other Things
of the like Nature ; artificially intermixing their different Co
lours, to render all more pleaant to the Sight, by the means
of that agreeable Variety. The Fruits being thus difpoed of,
on the bottom and fides of the China-dih, a Pearling-pot is to
be us'd, or ele a Tin-mould in Form of a Funnel ; but the
Hole of it ought to be very mall; otherwie, a kind of Pin, or
Stopple mut be put into ir, which may be lipt up and down,
to caue the Sugar to run thicker, or finer, accordingly as it
fhall be judgd mot expedient: Then pour the Caramel-ugar
into this Mould, and your Fruits ; turning it about,
from one to another, till you have fill'd up the whole Compas
of the China-dih, or Plate. As the Sugarthickens, and is dried
in an intant, ticking to the Fruits, as it falls, a kind of cui
ous Filigreen, or Net-work will be form'd, very proper, for the
. covering and adorning of the China-dihes, which will pleaant
ly deceive the fight of the Guets that have a mind to take up
fome of the Fruit, with a Fork: Beides that the broken Sugar
falling amongthe Cheee-curds and Sweet-meats, will caue the
whole Mes to be eaten together, with a great deal of fatisfa
ction.
Thus -
|
New Instructions for Confeioners. 1o9
Thus Pyramids of raw Fruit, particularly, of Cherries, Straw
berries, Plums, &c. may be diverified, and when they are
drefs'd, ome caramel-ugar is to be pour'd upon them, in like
manner ; beginning at the bottom, and continuing to turnir
about to the uppermot Point: By which means the Fruit will
be entirely hid, o as ome part of their Colour may only be
dicern'd, making a very fine hew, under this Sugar-work.

C H A P. XXXI.

Of Moffes and Sultanes.


Mouffelines or Moffes were in great repute, fome Years ago,
and may till, be us'd to very good purpoe, as well as
another fort of Sugar-work, call'd, Sultanes. They are alo con
venient to fill up a large Deert ; for want of Fruits preerved
dry, or other kinds of Sweet-meats.

Mos of feveral Colours.


To make white Mos, let ome Gum-dragant besteept infair
Water, with Lemmon-juice, and afterwards ftrain'd thro a
Linnen-cloth: Then take as little of it as you pleae, to work
up a white Pate, with double refin'd Sugar pouder'd and pas'd
thr a Sieve; tempering and beating all well together, in a
Mortar, till the Pate become pliable.
For red Mos, let fome of the ame fort of Gum be put into
the Mortar, with prepar'd Cochineal, to give it a red Colour.
Afterwards, add Sugar, as before, cauing all to be well min
le.
,
and work'd together, till your Paste be made noles plia
At another time, let the Gum be intermix'd with Indigo
and Orris, if you are minded to have it of a Blew, or Violet
colour : Then being put into a Mortar, with fine Powder-u
gar, all mut be thoroughly temper'd together, to make a Pate
of the fame nature as the others.
A Pate may likewife-be made with Gum-booge or
with Saffron, and a green Pate, with the Juice of Beat-leaves,
which mut be calded a little over the Fire to take away their
Crudity, Cc
To New Instruitions for Confectioners.
If you have a mind to make marbled Mos of all thee Pates,
take piece of every one of them, and lay them one after a
nother, upon a Sieve ; that as they are fqueez'd thro' with a
Spoon, certain little Rocks are form'd, which will be marbled,
and of thoe different Colours.
If it be requifite, to make ome of every fort of Pate a-part,
and of the fameColour, they mut be feparately train'd, in like
manner, and thee different Rocks are o be dres'd in form of
Pyramids upon China-dihes, for the Deert. They are dried
in a very hort pace of time, without putting them into the
Stove, or ufing any other means for that purpoe.
- Sultanes.

Take the whites and Yolks of four Eggs, with an equal


weight of Powder-ugar, and as much fine Flower, as will
counterpoie the Weight of tw Eggs: Let all be well tem
erd together, and if you would have a grain of Musk added,
it mut be pounded with a little other Sugar, and mingled with
the rest : Afterwards, the Sultanes are to be dres'd with a
Spoon upon Papers, and strew'd on the top, with fine Sugar :
But a convenient ditance must be left between every one of
them; becaue they areapt t fpread very wide, and then they
may beet into the Oven, with Fire on the top and underneath:
As foon as they are ufficiently bak'd, and well colour'd, they
e to be clear'd from the Papers; werting them gently on the
back-fide, and bringing them to the Fire, by which means they
may be eaily ff. Lastly, the Sultanes are to be roll'd up
form of Wafers, fo as the Ice may remain on the out-fide,
and drefgd upright upon, China:dihes or Plate; or ele they
may ferve for the garnihing of ome Pie, or other fort of Ser-
V1CC. |

C H A p. XXXII.
of certain natural and artificial Flowers.
BF Orange-flowers, the particular Way of preerving
which, has been ~already explain'd, Pag. 52. Some other
-- ~ forts "
New Instructions for Confectioners. 11 1
forts may alo be prepard, for Curiofity; which will pro
duce a very agreeable Effet : Indeed, thoe Confectioners,
who follow their Trade, have no regard to thee little Knacks,
becaue they are unwilling to betow their time and pains about
them; but they may be made in an Office, where the Officers
ometimes have more leiure, and may lay hold of an opportu
nity to hew their utmot Skill. * ** i

Tuberoa-flowers.
Take Flowers that are not blown, and lay them a foaking
in Water and Salt, as the Orange-flowers, to take away a cer
tainBitternes that is natural to them: At the end of two Days,
they are to be calded in Water, over the Fire, with the Juice
of a Lemmon, then drain'd and thrown into clarified Sugar
made luke-warm. To that purpoe, a flat Copper-pan ought
to be provided, or an earrhen Pan of the like Form, to keep
them from being fqueez'd. On the next Day, let the Sugar
boil, till it become omewhat Smooth, and it upon your
Flowers: On the third Day, having caus'd the Sugar to be
thoroughly brought toits fmooth Quality,orbetween mooth and
Pearled, turn it in like manner upon the Flowers, and fet them
by to cool: Then let them bedrain'd upon Hurdles, or Grates,
and dried upon Sieves, trew'd with Sugar, in order to be fet
into the Stove. |

Another Way of preferving Tuber fa-flowers.


After having order'd the Flowers, as before, or even without
ufing that Method, let them be put into the Copper, or earthen
Pan; whilft fome Sugar is boil'd till it become very much Pearl
ed, or Blown : Afterwards, let this Sugar be pour'd upon the
Flowers, fo as they may be ufficiently foak'd therein, and let
A all be left in the Stove, till the next Day: Then they are to be
drain'd upon Hurdles, or Sieves, and thoroughly dried.
Orange-flowers may alo be prepar'd, after the fame man
ner, altho' that which has been elfewere decrib'd, is more cer
tain, when they are to be kept for a confiderable time.
- Violet-flowers and other forts.
Take the finest double Violet-buds, with part of their Stalks,
- Cc 2 and
12 New Instructions for Confectioners.
and put them into a flat earthen, or Copper-pan, as before :
er having caus'd ome boil'd Sugar obe Blown, Pour itu
e Flowers, o as they may be well foak'd in it, and finih
e hole work, according to the Method, laid down in the
lat Article.
Tie Flowers of Spanih Broom, may alo be preerv'd after
the fame manner, and many other forts, at Pleaure. Some of
them may likewife be ic'doyer, with Powder-ugar, after they
have been dipt into the White of an Fef
and Orange-flower
Water, in order to be dried at the Fire. In drying thee Flow
ers, they may be dresd in Bunches upon mall Twigs dipoed
of to that purpoe, and they maybe put to the fame Ufe, as the
Artificial Flowers hereafter { ecified; or elfe they may ferve
angle, for the garnihing of ome other Dih.
counterfeit, or Artificial Flowers. J

It is requifire at first to make Pastes of divers Colours, ac


cording to the Instrutions already given in the Article of Mof
fes; that is to ay, with Gum-dragant thoroughly teept, ans.
mingled with Powder-ugar, which is to be well temperd anc.
an in the Mortar, till the Paste become pliable: For th"
Red, ome prepared Cochineel may be added; for the Blew
Indigo and Orris, for the Yellow Gum-booge ; and for tht
Green, Beet-juice, which ought to be firt ftew'd over the Fire
a. an or Silver-dih. The Pates being thus order'dan
roll'd out into very thin Pieces, may be hap'd in the Form?
feveral forts of Flowers, as Tulips, Wind-flowers, Roes, &
by the means of certain Tin-moulds; or ele they may be cu
out, with the pointofa Knife, according to Paper-models: Thet
the
nelisFlowers must be finih'dor all
turn'd upide-down, at once, and
otherwie: dried
As for the upon
lester Egg
fort
articularly the Wind-flowers, they may be stuck upon Thim
les, or omething elfe, of the like nature, that may facilitat
the forming of their Shape. In the mean while, different fort
of Leaves are to be cut out of the green Pate, to which y
may likewie give feveral Figures, to be intermix'd amon
your Flowers, the Stalks of which are to be made with mal
lips of Lemmon-peel., For the Wind-flower, a Rasberry pre.
fe d dry, is to be usd, after it has been dipt into Indigo an
orris; becaue the top or Bud of thoe Flowers, repreented b.
This Fruit, is generally of that Colour. ForTulips, ome fmal.
point
New Instructions for Confectioners. 113
points of Lemmon-flips may be put in the middle; for Roes,
a little Bud of Lemmon or Orange-chips; and fo for the other
kinds of Flowers: In all thee Particulars, their natural Figure
and Colour may be very well imitated, with a little Precauti
on, and by that Means you may have the Satisfation, of plea
fantly impofing upon the Credulity of ome Perons, when they
fee fuch variety of Flowers in the midt of Winter. The tops
of the Pyramids of dryed Fruit, may be garnih'd with thee
artificial Flowers, or ele a eparate Nofegay may be made of
them for the middle of your Defert, or they may be laid in or
derin a Basket, or kind of Cup, prepar'd with fine Patry-work
of crackling Cruft, neatly cut and dried for that purpoe : If
they are tied up in a Bunch, a Foot or Stock may be made of
March-pane, roll'd out and wreathed, after the fame manner,
as Nofegays are uually bound with Wire, or Thread; and the
Branches of this Stock are to upport on the top, a kind of
winding Wreath, neatly hap'd or cut, into which your Leaves
and Flowers are to be put ; artificially intermixing them, ac
cording to their various Colours: So that for the bringing of the
whole Bufines to perfetion, 'twill be requifite to betow ome
time, with a particular Application of Mind.
All thee forts of Works may alo be made with the Pate that
is proper for Bicotins, and which has been already decrib'd,
Pag. 96 and 97. A
- Of Fennel.
i

Foramuch as Fennel, or Anis may have a place among the


above-pecified Confetions, it will not be improper, here to fub
joyn the manner of ordering them to the bet Advantage ; be
fides the Ufe, that may be made of the Stalks alone, for the
dresting of Flowers that are preerved dry ; more epecially
thole of Spanih Jeffamin.
. . Fennel may be ferv'd up to Table iced, after it has been
foak'd in Orange-flower Water and the White of an Egg, and
then roll'd in Powder-ugar ; cufing it to be dried in the Sun,
or at the Fire, upon Paper. . If it be judg'd expedient to give it
divers Colours, an Ice may be made with Poznegranate-juice,
or Cocheneal, and the White of an Egg beaten together, for
the red Colour; or with Indigo and Orrice-powder, for Blew,
and fo of the reft.
As for the Anis, it is to be teept in like manner, and dried
- . , , * Cc 3 iri
114 New Instructions for Confectioners.
n the Stove, upon Sieves or Grates: It may alo be cover'd,
asthick as you pleae, with that Ice, by foaking it feveraltimes
in the fame.
Moreover, when any Oranges, or Lemmons are preerv'd
dry, the Fennel may be thrown into the Sugar, as foon as it is
made white on the fides of the Pan; or ele it may be candy'd,
according to the Method elewhere explain'd under the Article
of Candy'd Confe&tions.

C H A P. XXXIII.
of Pies made of Crackling-cruit and Puff paste.
TH Article having fo near a Relation to the Art of prefer
ving Sweet-meats, ought nor to be omitted here; and in
deed, "it is not ufficient to know how to make thee forts of
Pate, but 'tis alo requifite to be well vers'd in the Method of
ordering and difpofing them for a Defert, and upon all other
Occaions. Now it cannot be denied, that Pan-pies hold a
coniderable rank among thee Particulars ; more epecially
thoe made of Crackling-cruft, which are at preent, very of
ren prepard, even for the mot curious Palates, and ferv'd up,
to the mot umptuous Tables, both at Court and elewhere.

Paste for Crackling-cruff,


Having provided about two Handfuls of Almonds, which are
fufficient for one Pan-pye, let them be calded, blanch'd, and
thrown into freh Water: Then they are to be wip'd, and
unded in a Mortar, moitening them from time to time, with
a little White of an Egg and Orange-flower Water, beaten to
gether, to prevent them from turning to Oil. "Tis very mare
rial, that they be well pounded, and they may alo be fqueez'd
through a Sieve, to take away all the or Lumps. The
Almond-pate being thus prepard, mut be pread on a Baon,
or Dih, and dried with Powder-ugar, as an ordinary fort of
Paste, till it become very pliable. Afterwards, having fer it
by for fome time, you are to roll out a Piece for the under-cruft,
to be dried in the Oven upon the Pie-pan; whilt other mall
- y - * Pa

F
NavTFraions for Confectioners. 115
Pastry-works are making, with what was pard off, fuch as
Petits Choux, Ciphers, Knots and other Devices, that may
ferve for the garnihing of your Pie.

Cracrling-crufi made after another manner.


After the Almonds have been thoroughly pounded and moi
ften'd, as before, let as much Sugar as Paste, at leaft, be put
into a Copper-pan, and boil'd till it become Feathered: Then
throwing in your Almonds, let all be well temperd and
mingled together with the Spatula, and having fet usein over
the Fire again, keep continually stirring, the whole Mas,
till your Pate flips of from the bottom and fides of the Pan.
Afterwards, it mut be laid in a Dih, trew'd with Powder
fugar on the top, and fet by, for a while, as the former, in or
der to make a Pye of it, after the fame manner.
In preparing the Pate conformably to either of thee Methods,
the Pie will certainly become crackling and delicious to the high
et Degree: But if you are minded to avoid the trouble, and
perhaps the charge of Almonds,very goodPies may alo be made
according to the following Intrutions.
Another Way.
Take one, or two Whites of Eggs, with three or four Spoon
fuls of fine Sugar, and as much Flower, if you would only
make one Pan-pye : The Sugar being firt temper'd with the
Whites of the Eggs, and then the Flower, knead all together,
till your Paste become pliable, and roll out a very thin Piece ;
ftrewingit with fine Sugar: Afterwards, having put it into the
Pie-pan, let the Sides be neatly pinch'd, at certain Intervals,
and prickt with the point of a Knife, to hinder shem from puff
ing : In the mean while, the remaining part of the Pate is to be
roll'd out into Slips of the thicknefs of a Lace, to compleat the
infide of the Pie; which may be made in form of a Sun, Star,
Malta-cros, Flower-de-luce, Coat of Arms, or the like. At
, laft, it mut be gently bak'd in the Oven, and when ready to
be brought to Table, the void Spaces are to be fill'd up, with
feveral forts of Marmelades, or Jellies, according to the Co
ldurs, that hall be judgd mot expedient : The fame thing
ought alo to be oberv'd, with repet to Pies made of the
preceding Pates. To thelatter, Cmay be added a little Orange
c 4 flower
116 New Instrufions for Confectioners.
flower Water, or fome other weet Water, and if it be requi
fite to prepare a greater quantity of either fort of Pate, ano
ther Piece, of an equal thinnes, may be roll'd out for the Lid;
which mut be cut round, and dried in the Oven, upon a Pie
pan, or Plate, in order to cover the Pie, after it has been ic'd
over, if you have no mind to leave it in its natural Colour.
Wafers.
Let as much Flower, as you pleae, be mingled, with new
Cream in the Evening; taking care that it do not four : On the
next Day, when they are well temper'd and clear'd from the
Lumps, add a fomewhat greater quantity of Powder-ugar than
that of the Flower, and intermix all with a Spoon: Then pour
in more Cream, with a little Orange-flower Water, till the
whole Mes becomes almot as thin as Milk, and tirr all well
together. In the mean while, the Wafer-iron is to be heated,
and rubb'd on both fides, from time to time, with freh Butter,
putinto one corner of a Napkin: your prepared Cream,
or Batter be turn'd upon the Iron, but it mut not exceed a
Spoonful and half for every Wafer; which will be render'd to
much the more delicious, if the Iron be pres'd a little. After
wards, the Wafer-iron is to be laid upon the Furnace, o that
when the Wafer is bak'd on one fide, it may be turn'd on the
other: To know whether the Wafer be done enough, let your
Iron be gently open'd a little aud oberve whether it be come
to a good Colour: At that very intant, take off your Wafer
from the Iron, with a Knife; rolling it a little round the fame:
Lastly, let the Wafers be fpread hot upon a Wooden Roller,
made for that purpoe, to give them their due Shape, and fet
them into the Stove, as they are finih'd, to the end that they
may be kept very dry.

Rock-cream.
Let a Quart of weet Cream, more or les, according to the
uantity that you would have made, be put into an earthen
an, with Powder-ugar, according to Dicretion, and as much
Culverized Gum-dragant: as you can take up between two
Fingers: Then having caus'd all to be well whipt together,
ir will rife, as high as you hall think fit, and contiuue two
Days in the fame Condition: A little Orange-flower Water may
alo be added as the Cream is Whipping, Boil'd
New Instructions for Confectioners. 117
Boil'd Cream.

Having boil'd a Quart of Milk, with what quantity of Su


gar you pleae, when it beginsto rife, flip in fix Yolks of Eggs
well beaten, and a little freh Butter: Then keep continually
ftirring all together, till your Cream is brought to a due Confi
ftence, and dres it in China-dihes, or Cups.
\,

Puff-paste.
Let fome Paste be made after the uual manner, with Flower,
Water, Salt, and if you pleae, the yolk of an Egg: As foonas
it is well kneaded, and made very pliable ; roll it out upon the
Dreffer-board, of a convenient length and thicknes: Then co
ver it with as much good Butter, and having turn'd one of the
ends upon the other, fo as all the Butter may be enclos'd on the
infide, rollit again, continuing to do the fame thing five or fix
times. Two Pounds and half of good freh Butter, ought to be
allow'd for every three Pounds of Flower. -

This fort of Paste is proper forother Pan-pies that are brought


to Table without a Deert, in which it is not cutomary to ferve
up any thing that is prepar'd with Butter. However, Feuil
lantins and Mazarines, which are certain mall Tarts of the
breadth of the Palm of a Man's Hand,may be made of it,being
uually fill'd with Sweet-meats, to garnih fome other Pie of a lar
ger fize, fet among the Intermees; but if thee little Tarts are
for the Defert, they may be made of Crackling-cruft,
as before. *

C H A P. XXXIV.
0f Chefnuts and Mulherries; with fome particular
Obervations upon feveral other forts of Fruit.
IT remains only to give fome Account of Chenuts and Mul
berries, in regard that no notice has been taken of them a
mong the other forts of Fruit, and we hall afterwards add cer
tain New and particular Remarks upon the Way of pe :
- - OIING
I 18 New Instructions for Confectioners.
fome of them; fo that it is prefum'd, That nothing will then be
wanting that relates to the whole Art and Mytery of Confe
&tioners.

To preferve cifu.
Having chofen the bet fort of large Chenuts, let them be
fcalded in Water, and neatly peel'd with a little Knife, proper
for that paring off the two Skins, and taking care that
they do not break: Afterwards, fomeclarifiedSugar made luke
warm being pour'd upon them, in a Copper-pan, they are to be
left for a while, in order to have ten, or twelve Boilings the
fame Day: But it is not requiite, to foak them entirely in the
Sugar,or to give them a cover'd Boiling, becaue by that mens
they would be all broken into pieces. On the next Day, boil
our Sugr till it be greatly Feathered, and almot ready to be
lown, and flip in the Chenuts: This trong Boiling of the Su
gar, caues them abolurely to cast their and then it re
turns to its Pearled Quality, which is the uual Degree for Sweet
meats: The Chenutsought not to be fet over the Fire any lon
er, left they hould grow Black; but to dry them, they are to
f drain'd from their Syrup, and turn'd into Feathered Sugar :
Then having caus'd the Boiling to be cover'd, take them off from
the Fire, and fer them by for fome time: As foon as they are
cool'd a little, let the Sugar be made white by rubbing it with
the Ladle, or Skimmer againt one of the Sides of the Pan, and
pur your Chenuts into it, with a Spoon and Fork, as dextrouly
as is poible, for fear of breaking them. Afterwards, being
Hurdles, or Grates, in the fame manner as Lem
mons, they will be foon dried, and finely Ic'd over.
If you have any other Sweet-meats to be dried at the fame
time, fuch as Oranges,, or Lemmons, it is expedient to begin
with them; more , the latter, which ought to be ver
White; becaue the Chenuts extremely blacken the Sugar ; o
rhat it is no longer fit for any other Ufe, but only to frve for
Compotes.
Of Mulherries, as well dry as liquid.
For the former, take uch Mulberries as are not too ripe, but
rather omewhat greenih and tart: In the mean while, having
eaus'd fugar to be Blown, throw in your Mulberries, and give
them
New Instruitions for Confeifioners. 119
them a cover'd Boiling: Then remove the Pan from the Fire,
take off the Scum, and leave all in the Stovetill the next Day:
And it ought to be oberv'd, that as much Sugar is requiite as
Fruit, and that it may be alo melted with the Juice of Mul
berries to clarifieit. As foon as they are taken out of the Stove,
and cool'd, let them be drain'd from their Syrup, and dres'di
upon Slates, in order to be dry'd in the Stove, trew'd with Su
gar, as the other forts of Fruit; lastly they mut be turn'd again
upon Sieves, and when thoroughly dry, lock'd up in Boxesto
be ued as occaion requires. -

For liquid Mulberries, let the Sugar be boil'd till it be a lit


tle Pearled, allowing three of it, for four Pounds of
Fruit, and ler them have a lightcoverd Boiling in the fame Su
gar ; gently tirring the Pan by means of the Handles : Then
take it off from the Fire, and having fer it by, till the next Day,
drain off the Syrup, in order to be brought to itsPearled Quali
ty : Afterwards flip in your Fruit, adding a little more Pearled
Sugar, if it be needful, and dipoe of them in Pots, as foon as
they are ufficiently cool'd. |- -

Mulberries may alo be preerv'd wet after the following


manner: Take five Pounds of Fruit, with three Pounds of Su
gar boil'd till it become Feathered; into which you are to flip
them, giving them at the fametime, twelve, or fifteen Boilings:
Then they are to be augmented, all atonce, with two, or three
other Pounds of Sugar, likewie Feathered, and brought to Per
fetion, without removing them from the Fire, only cauing the
Syrop to return to its Pearled Quality.

| Additional Obervations upon green Figs.


Beides the Intrutionselewhere given, Pag. 44, for the pre
ferving of green Figgs, it may be oberv'd here, That before
they are calded, the cutting of them is fometimes dipened
with, only pricking them along their whole length, from one
end to the other: Then fet them over the Fire in a Copper
pan, with Water, and give them ten, or, twelve Boilings :
Afterwards, being cool'd in the fame Liquor, and turn'd into
freh Water; they are to be brought to the Fire again, with
a Glafs of Verjuice, and boil'd, till they become very green
and oft: At that intant removing them from the Fire, let
them becool'd, drain'd and put into earthen Pans: In the mean
| while, ome clarified Sugar, that is to ay two Ladles fullofforit
- * , e -
*

12o ' New Instruions for Confectioners.


for one of Water, is to be heated, and upon the Figgs,
fo as they may be well foak'd therein. the next Day, drain
off the Syrup, give it two, or three Boilings, and turn it upon
your Fruit : Some timeafter, the whole Work may be finihed,
almot in the fame manner as is expres'd Pag. 45 by caufing
the Syrup to be boiled one Day, a little fmooth, at another time
very Smooth, then to a degree between Smooth and Pearled,
and at last, entirely Pearled : And the Figgs mut be fet over
the Fire, from one Day to another, alternately, only to fimper,
and at the other times, it will be ufficient only to pour the Su
gar upon them: However the lat time, your Fruit ought to
have feven, or eight cover'd Boilings, and then being fet by for
a little while in their Syrup, they may be either immediately
dried, or laid up in Pots, till a more convenient Opportunity,
fhall offer itelf for that purpoe.

Additional Remarks upon Bell grapes.


It has been already oberv'd Pag. 48 That pared Bell-grapes
are uually preerv'd after the fame manner, as thoe that are
left in their natural Condition : But it ought to be undertood
only with repet to the Sugar; becaue they are not tobe cald
ed, in water as the latter, nor foak'd to bring them again to
their Colour, as being riper; otherwife the Skin would not be
fo eafily pard off . If it be perceiv'd, that the Pearled Boiling
is not trong enough, the firt time that fuch juicy Fruits are put
into Sugar, it may be boil'd till it become greatly Feathered,
- allowing the fame quantity of it, asof the Grapes; which ought
to have four, or five Boilings, at once, before the Pan is re
movd from the Fire: For the ret, the whole Work may be
finih'd,altogether according to the Diretions before laid down,
for unpared Bell-grapes ; unles, instead of leaving them to
fimper a little, every time that they are fet over the Fire, af
ter having brought the Sugar, to the neceary Degree of Boil
ing ; you have a mind to give them feveral Boilings together,
as at the firt. -

For Pates made of Bell-grapes, as they are calding over


the Fire, in their own Liquor, according to the Intrutionsgi
ven in the fecond Article of Bell-grape-pastes, Pag.86. remem
ber to take off the Scum as foon as it boils, and when your Pate
lies a drying at the Fire, after having queez'd ir through the
Sieve, add, if you pleae, a little Powder-ugar: Neither mut
*- - - - you
New Instrations for Confeifioners. 121
you forger, to caue the fame Pasteto fimper for a while, when
incorporated with the Blown Sugar, before it is dres'd upon the
Slates ; it being more epecially requiiteto oberve this particu
lar Circumtance, in the preparing of all forts of Pastes.

Additional Obervations upon Quinces.


Foramuch as the Method of preerving Quinces explain'd
Pag. 5o, may feem fomewhat tedions, we hall now try another
that is eaier, and of greater dipatch, being alo at leaft, of e
qual efficacy and certainty.
Having caus'd your Quinces to be cut into pieces, clear'd
| from the Cores and par'd, let all boil together in a ufficient
quantity of Water; and when they are become very oft,
remove the Pan from the Fire: Then taking up the Pieces that
are to be preerv'd, with the Skimmer, put them into freh Wa
ter, to cool ; fer the ret over the Fire again, and give them
twenty other Boilings: Afterwards, this Decoction beingstraind
thro' the Straining-bag, or thro a doubled Napkin, take two
Ladles full ofit, with one of clarified Sugar, proportionably to
the quantity of your Fruit, and turn all into a Copper-pan, with
the Quinces; in order to boilover a gentle Fire : Let ome Su
gar be alo added ; accordingly as the firt Syrup conumes a
way, without pouring in any more Decotion, and let the
whole Mes be well boiled, till the Syrup becomes Pearled :
Then let it be cool'd, and dres your Quincesin Boxes, Pots, or
Glaffes; pouring the Syrup upon them, which will be very fine,
and of a lively red Colour, if the Pan were cover'din the Boiling.
Additional Remarks upon Oranges.
When mention was made of China-oranges, Pag.54 it ought
only to be understood of the large and weet ones, as it may be
| eaily dicern'd. . Thelester Sort of China-oranges are not t be
clear'd from their Juice, but being lightly Zested, or pard, to
take away the Yellow, they must only be prick'd, with a Knife
making a little flit on the top, and thrown into fair water:
Then they are to be calded and boil'd in freh water, till they
flip offfrom the Pan, adding a Handful of pounded Allum, in
order to have twenty other Boilings; which Method may ali se
oberv'd in the Preparing, of other forts of Oranges. After
wards, they must he cool'd, and put into clarified ugar, new
- --> ,
~
ly
122 New Instruions for Confectioners.
ly pas'd thro' the training-bag, with a very little Water ; be
caue a great deal of Juice will be extrated from them: For
that very reaon, it is requiite to boil them at the fame time,
till the Sugar be fomewhat fmooth; which nevertheles will b
altogether undone, the next Day : Then let it be brought again
to its fmooth Quality, augmenting it with other Sugar, and ha
ving the Oranges give them fifteen, or twenty Boilings.
. On the Day following, let them be drain'd again, whilt the Sy
rupis made Pearled; in which they are to have ten, or twelve
coverd Boilings : A little while after, they are to be cool'd and
drain'd, and of in Pots or Glaffes, and the Syrup be
ing boil'd till it become greatly Pearled, must be pour'd upon
them in the uual manner : But you mut not forgetto augment
it with as much Sugar asis needful,to the end that theFruit may
be ufficiently foak'd therein. . The particular way of drying
thee Oranges, is the fame with that which is proper for other
Fruits of the like nature, and it has already been decrib'd at
large, more epecially, in the Article of Lemmons.

Barley-Sugar.
Having caus'd Barley to be well boil'd in Water, strain it
thro' the Hair-fieve, and let this Decotion be put into clarified
Sugar, brought to the Caramel, or lat Degree of Boiling: Then
remove the Pan from the Fire, till the Boiling fettles, and pour
your Barley-fugar upon a Marble-tone rubb'd with Oil of O
lives, taking care to hinder it from running down. If the Mar
ble be wanting, a Silver-dih, or one of ome other fort of Me
tal, may be us'd, for the fame purpoe: So that as the Sugar
cools, and begins to grow hard, it mut be cut into pieces, and
roll'd out of what length you pleae, in order to be kept for Ue.

C H A P. XXXV.
Ofthe Accidents that may happea to Sweet-meats, and
of proper Means for the remedying of them.
IT may be perhapsbe affirm'd, That all forts of Sweet-meats,
well made according to Art, are not apt to decay, or to be
fpoil'd,
New Instruitions for Confeifioners. 123
fpoird, and that this Defect proceeds from the Unskilfulnes of
: thoe Perons who are employd in the preparing of them ; ne
i verthelesit may fo happen fometimes, the ut
mot Precautions that have been taken to prevent fuch Inconve
niences. So that altho' we have laid down the mot certain Me
thods for the due Preerving of every Particular; yet it is expe
dient to hew the bad Accidents that may befal them, and the
manner of applying proper Remedies:
* The mot uual Inconvenience is, that wet Sweet-meats are
- fubje to four, and puff, which proceeds from the moistnes
of the Fruit, which not having fufficiently cat their natural
- Juice, or the Liquor they imbib'd, as they were Scalding and
: Cooling, caue the Sugarto give, in proces of time; fo that the

- Sweet-meats grow mouldy, and throw out a kind of Scum.


: This ill Accident is foon perceived in frequently viiting the
- Store-houe, or Repofitory, and it ought to be immediately re
medied, whilt an Opportunity offers itelf; otherwife, by ne
gletinga Matter, which at firt might be eaily reduc'd to good
order, you'll run the hazard of rendering it deperate, and of
utterly poiling your Sweet-meats. To prevent this Diaster, it
is requiite to put them into a Copper-pan, over the Fire; cau
ing the Sugar, or Syrup to give a little, with a cup full of Wa
ter: Then let all boil together, taking of the Scum, that rifes on
the top, and having brought them again to the Pearled Boiling,
remove the Pan, and put your Fruit into Pots, or Glaes as at
the firt; by which means they'll be thoroughly free'd from their
fournes, and in a condition to keep to the end, provided they be
not laid up in too moit a Place. Otherwife, the Syrup alone may
be fet over the Fire, at firt, with a little Water, and after ha
ving fcumm'dit, as before, the Fruit may be fliptin ; which are
to boil till the Syrup has attain'd to the Pearled Degree, and then
they are to bedipoed of in the uual manner. Thus the four
nes may be taken ; from all forts of Fruits preerv'd liquid,
particularly Walnuts, Plums, Orange and Lemmon-flips Sc.
The Inconvenience incident to preerv'd Fruits, is, thatthey
fometimes candy: but this is not properly a Defet, as beingon
ly occafion'd by giving the too trong a Boiling; o that
there are grounds to fear, leat fuch an Accident hould do your
Sweet-meats any Injury; on the contrary, you are affur'd, that
they will keep very well, and that the Sugar was good. To re
ir this flight Damage, you need only put all that part which
is candiediato a Pan, witha little Water, and when it is brought
IO
124 New Instruions for Confectioners.
again to the Pearled Quality, mingle it with the ret; or ele
letall have a few Boilings together. When the weet-meats are
only candy'd on the Surface, uch as Jellies, this Candy may be
raken off, by paffing hor Water over them, which will eafily
dipere the Candy and render the Sweet-meats as fine, as they
were in the Beginning. Thee Jellies of Gooeberries, Currans,
or other forts of Fruit, being ftale, may alo be renew'd, by fet
ting them over the Fire, in a Copper-pan, with a little Water,
to dilute and caue them to give : So that as foon as they re
turn to their former Degree of Boiling, which is Pearled, or be
tween Smooth and Pearled, they are to be pour'd,into a Sieve fer
over an earthen Pan, and afterwards put again into the Pots or
Glaffes.
There are certain Fruits which are apt to grow greafy, more
epecially green and ripe Apricocks, and in that Condition, they
cannot be well dried. The proper Remedy is, to boil them in
new Pearled Sugar, after they have been drain'd from their for
mer Syrup. If the fame Cot were betow'd upon all other forts
of Fruits, they might be much more eaily dried, and would be
come finer, than when the Confetioner, or Officer contents him
felf according to the uual Method, only to drain them from the
Sugar with which they were preerv'd, and afterwards to dres
them upon Slates, or little Boards, in order to be dried in the
Stove trew'd with Sugar.
Dry Sweet-meats that are kept for a confiderable time, ought
to be laid up in a Place free from all manner of Moiture, that
is to ay near the Stove, or elfein ome Cloet, into which a lit
tle Fire ought contantly to be put,from timeto time, during the
: and in regard, that Fruits preerv'd dry, are apt
to loe their Ice, when kept for too long a time; it is expedient :
to dry them Occa fion requires; by which means they will alo
be ecur'd from another Accident, that is to fay, from being
fhrivell'd and wrinkled ; altho both may be remedied, by cau
fing thoe Fruits to be boil'd again over the Fire, in the like Sy |
rup, or other new Sugar, in order to be dried again, after they
:
have been boil'din it to the Pearl'd Degree, and fer by to cool. |
C H A P.
New Instruitions for Confectioners. 125
C H A P. XXXVI.

The Way of Ordering and Setting-out a Defert, or


other Regalio of the like nature, to the best ad
vantage, with fome Models of fuch Entertain
772f/2ff.

Frer having treated of every Thing that may give Sarisa


tion to the nicet Palates, the preparing of which is the
peculiar Province of Confetioners, Butlers an other Officers;
it is expedient to conclude the whle Work, with the Method
of ferving up all thoe repetive Mees, in due Order, either
for a Defert, or fome other Entertainment of the like ature.
To that purpoe, it ought to be oberv'd, That a Banquer
of Fruits, as well Raw, as Preferved, with its Appurtenances,
may be dres'd either upon a Level or in a Basket: This lat
Way is only us'd in preparing Entertainments for certain Fra
ternities, or particular Societies; where as many little Baskets
are ferv'd up at firt to Table, as there are Guets: Thefe
Baskets are uually adorn'd with finall Ribbands, and Taffety
covers, according to the allotted Expences, and fill'd up with
all forts of Sweet-meats, Biskets, March-panes, Orange and
Lemmon-faggots, dried Fruits, &c. fo as the mot delicious
Comfits may lye on the top: At lat, after all have been fer in
ood Order, and contributed much to the Decoration of the
everal Coures; every individual Perfon huts up and takes a
way his Basker, to treat his Family and Friends at home ; con
tenting himelf only to eat the liquid Sweet-meats, fuch as
Compotes and Marmelades, or elfe the raw Fruits, which were
provided, to ferve for the Out-works.
A Banquet of Sweet-meats is faid to be dres'd upon a Le
vel, when dipoed of upon China-dihes, and Machines made
of Wood, or Ofier-twigs, having a great Board in the middle,
in form of a Square, or Hexagon, that is to ay, with fix Panes
in length, or of any other Figure: This Board is encompas'd
with divers other Works of different Shapes, viz. That of a
Club at Cards, round, oval, or otherwife, and feveral Chi
na-dihes are fet upon thee Boards, by the means of certain
finall wooden Leggs, or Cups; fo as the Oval may contain
D d 4 two,
.*
126 New TF7; for Confettioners.
two, and the Clubs three; whilt the Oval erye for Compos,
and the Middle-board for a large Pyramid of Fruit, with Chi:
disties round about, fix'd, as before: Or ele it may be filld
up altogether with china-dihes; tharin hemiddle g rais'd
higher than the others; upon which feveral mall Pyramids
are to be ereted, of an exat : fo that the fame
forts
fide, of Comfits,
at the andAngles.,
oppofite the fame Colours
Laftly, mayorappear
a Row Borderonofevery
raw
Fruits may be made round about the Dihes, uponevery Board
to garnih the top, and the whole Deert is to be fet out with
Flowers, Greens, and other Ornaments, according to the Sea
fon. |- - -

For the more clear Illutration of this Method, it will not


be improper here to produce ome Examples, or Models of fuch
Deerts, or Banquers of Sweet-meats, according to which, Mea
fures may eaily be taken, for the drefing of thoe of a grea
ter, or leffer Size.
The Modelofa Defert, for an Oval Table of twelve Cover
ings. *

, -- - r* - - - - - - - - - -
TVT Instru#ions for Confectioners. 127

/ The Explication.
The Board in the middle is uually made of Oster-twigs,
in form of a Basket, and may be gilt, filver'd over, or paint
ed like fine earthen Ware, with this convenience, that they
may be clean'd by Wahing. There is alo a thin Board, that
lyes almot at the Entrance, over-againt the Border, to ferve
for a Ground-plot for the Sweet-meats which are to be dres'd
upon it, the Ledge of the Ofier-basket, or Bord being indent
ed; fo that befides the Ornament, to which it contributes, it
ferves alo to keep in the Fruit, with which a Border may be
made round about the China-dihes: Seven of thee Dihes are
expres'd in the above-pecified Model, and the Order of them
may be clearly dicern'd ; but that in the middle ought to be
a little larger, and rais'd fomewhat higher than the ret. For
want of China-dihes, certain Tin-moulds of the fame hape
may be ubtituted in their room, the Quality of which is not
fo eafily dicover'd, in regard, that before any Thing is dres'd
upon them, the bottom ought always to be cover'd with
Leaves, or Paper: Thee round Moulds may alo be faten'd
upon the Leggs, and by that means the Defert will become
more folid. - - -

Thoe Petfons who have no mind to make ufe of Wicker


boards according to the Model even now decribd, may caue
fome to be made, of the fame Form, or otherwife, that confift
only of a wooden Bottom, upported by little Knobs, or other
forts of Feet, with a Ledge round about, to keep in the Fruit,
as before, and this Ledge may be gilt, or done over with Silver.
The fame Thing may be oberv'd, with repet to the other
Boards which are added to the greater, as fo many Out-works,
and upon thee wooden Bottoms the feveral Leggs are to be
fixd, for the China-dihes, in which the Sweet-meats are laid,
in order. * - : A.

As for a common Defert prepar'd for few Perons, the Con


fetioner or Officer may ontent himelf, only to make ue of
the middle Board, without the Out-works, and in difpofing
thoe Outworks otherwife, may find Means to diverfifie the
Service at another time, or for other Tables; as it appears
from the following Model.
b fis
128 New Instruffions for Confestioners.
The Model of a Defert, or Banquet of Sweat-meats, for a
round Table.

P22./23

The Explication.
This Defert contains two Oval Out-works more than the for
mer, and the round ones are abolutely retrench'd : In this cae,
the Compotes may be fet upon the Clubs, and certain mall Py
ramids of Biskets, March-panes, or other Comfits may be rais'd
upon the Sides that remain empty and naked. . If it be per
ceiv'd, that the Figure is not ufficiently round, by reaon that
the Machine in the middle is not o broad, as it is long, the
Round Out-works may be introduc'd again, or elfe two Ovals
with their Ends plac'd inwards; garnihing the whole Deert,
as ir may be oberv'd, with real China-dihes, or Tin-moulds
repreenting their Figure, upon which the Fruits and Sweet
meats are to be dres'd in mall Pyramids: Neither are there
expres'd in this Model above feven of thee Dihes for the
middle Board, altho' for the mot part, a greater number is ad
mitted, when it is reqnifite to provide a fomewhat larger De
fert.
- A
Mew Instruitions for Confectioners. 129
A quare Machine fet in the middle of uch a Table, will
render the Figure more round; placing the Oval and Club
Out-works in the fame fituation : But foramuch as in uch a
fquare Piece, the China-dihes leave a void Space, at the four
Corners, they may be fill'd up with as many China-cups, into
which other fine Fruits are to be put, or only fome of the
fame, and the fame thing may be done with the other Inter
vals; garnihing the ret with leffer forts of Fruit, the thicknes
of which does not exceed the height of the China-dihes : And
in a fimple Deert, for four Perons, thee four Corners may be
taken up with little Cups of iced Waters, or other Liquors,
according to the Seaon.
One of the two eparate Figures that appear at the Bottom
of the Model, or Scheme above delineated, denotes the Form
of the above-mention'd Wicker-baskets, either round, or oval,
and the other, the fimple wooden Machines, with Feet, which
may upply the Place of the others, as it has been already in
timated. The Clubs, and the Board in the middle are alo of
the fame Contrution, and in the little Basket is to be feen th
thin Board that lyes on the top at the Entrance, upon which
the China-dihes are uually rais'd: This Board ought to be co
ver'd with marbled, or painted Paper, and always fet out with
Leaves and Flowers, or other Ornaments, according to the
Seaon ; more epecially in the void Spaces, and Intervals,
causd by the Indentings on the top of this Wicker-machine,
And indeed, very convenient Boards are made for little Ta
bles, where the feveral Pieces of the like nature, with their
whole Contexture is form'd, are all faten'd together; o that
the Deert may be readily ferv'd up to Table, allatonce, with
out any manner of trouble, or impdiment, and without run
ning the hazard of confounding or poiling the Sweet-meats ;
provided a little Care be taken in the ordering of the Ma
chines. -

For greater Tables, other Machines of proportionable Di


menions, may be prepar'd at Pleaure, and upon any emergent
Occaion, when all thee Intruments are wanting, a Deert
may nevertheles be very neatly dipoed of upon the ordinary
Table-furniture; after having taken a particular account of
the Size and Number of the Dihes, Baons and Plates, which

| are neceary for that purpoe; fo that as many China-dihes,


or Cups may be fet in order upon them, as hall be judg'd re
quifite, to contain the Sweet-meats and Fruits, aceordingly
- Dd 3 as
13o New Instruitions for Confectioners.
as an Opportunity may ferve, or the Diverfity of Seaons may
require.
the whole Matter, it were to be wih'd, that exat Mo
dels were produc'd of all the forts of Materials, with which
Deerts might be prepared fordifferentTables: But confidering,
that thee Circumtances depend upon the Abilities and Inclina
tions of particular Perons, and the Conveniencies of Houes;
fuch Models would be of no great ue, when the Managersare
not in a condition to at conformably to thoe Meaures: A cer
tain Officer, for example, thinks fit to ferve up Switzerland
cheee, cut into Quarters, or Slices; whilt another makes ufe
of Parmean, or Cheee-curds, during the Fetival of Easter,
with a Caramel-embellihment: Another in like manner, judges
it expedient only to preent a Service of iced Cherries, whilt
others are employd in preparing a Banquet of more cotly and
delicious Sweet-meats. Therefore it is ufficient, that we have
already given fome Account of the feveral forts of Comfits and
Fruits, which are proper to be ferv'd up to Table, in every
Month throughout the whole Year : So that recoure may be
had, as Occaion ferves, to the Rules before laid down in this
Treatife; and as for thoe Perons,who are defirous to be farther
instruted in the Method of Dreffing an entire Defert, or Ban
qiet of Sweet-meats, to the bet advantage; they need only
cat an Eye upon the following Model, neatly engrav'd upon a
Copper-plate: wherein Endeavours have been us'd, to repreent
as exact and intelligible a Draught of it, as poibly could be
done within fo fmail a Compas. -
In this Figure, the middle Board is a Hexagon, confiting of
fix Angles, or Corners, and the Out-works are of the fame na
ture, as thoe expres'd in the firt Model: The Club-figures, at
the two Ends, are for iced Waters; the Round ones adjoyning,
for Compotes ; and the Oval on both Sides, ferve each to hold a
Couple of China-dithes, for two mall Pyramids. Thus the
Q jantity of thoe contain'd in the principal Machine may be
very well ditinguih'd, and uppofing, this Deert were provi
ded for the Month of Guly, you may eaily find out, of what
Materials it ought to confift, by turning back to Pag 12. of
this Treatife, in which is contain'd a Decription of all forts of
Sweet-tneats and raw Fruits, that are proper for that Seaon:
The fitne thing may be done at any other time, accordingly as
{Dccaion hall require. - - -

"

- - ~- - -------- - - ---- - - -- - - - - -
N ew .
INSTRUCTION
F o R

LIQUORS,
How to Prepare feveral Sorts of W AT E R s and
D R 1 N ks that are proper for every Seaon of
the Year.

C H A P. I.
Of the iced Waters of Flowers.
Hat nothing may feem to be wanting for the com
- pleating of this Work, it is only requifite here to
- add a few plain Diretions relating to certain Li
quors and Syrups uually prepar'd by Confetioners,
which are of two forts, viz. fome cooling to be us'd in the
Spring and Summer, and others trong for Autumn and Win
ter, more epeially proper to revive and cheer the Spirits du
ring that rigorous Seafon, ome of which are very particular
and remarkable. -

Violet-water.

Having provided two good Handfuls of Violets for every


gwo Quarts of Liquor, let them be pick'd and put into Water
- - d 4 ' ' : with

------------------ * - *~~ ~ ~ *----------------


2 Mew Instructions for Liquors.
with a quarter or half a Pound of Sugar: When all have been
well infued from Morning till Night, at leaft, for five or fix
Hours, strain the Liquor thro a Linnen-cloth, or only thro' a
Sieve, and fet it by to be iced, according to the Method for
all forts of Waters in general, hereafter explain'd in the last
Article of this Chapter. -

Another Way.
Whenever you have not leiure enough to let the Ingredients
infue, as before, the pickd Violets may be thrown into a con
venient quantity of Water, with the Sugar, and foak'd as long
as it is poible: Then pour off the Liquor out of one Pot into
another, as it were bcaten Water, till by this continual agita
tion, it has acquir'd the finell of Violets, which may be farther
improv'd with Orrice-powder : Latly, train your Liquor;
and fet it by to cool.
Orange-flower Water.
Take only the Leaves of a Handful of Orange-flowers, with
out the Yellow and Green, thoe being, ufficient to give the
Smell and Tinture: Let thee Flowers he infued in a Quart
of Water, with a quarter of a Pound of Sugar, in order to be
ftrain'd, cool'd and iced, as occaion requires. Otherwie,
if you would make a quick dipatch, beat up your Water, with
the Flowers and Sugar, by pouring them feveral times out of
one Veffel into another, and finih the Work after the fame
manner as in preparing Violet-water.
f) Jonquil-mater.

Let a good Handful of thee Flowers be well pick'd and


infus'd in Water, with Sugar, from Morning to Noon, or from
Noon till Night; and one Hour before the is ferv'd up
let it be col'd and iced, after having train'd it thro' a Sieve,
or a Linnen-cloth. The Work may alo be more peedily done,
by beating up the Water, with the Flowers and Sugar, after
'they have been teept, as long as the rime will admit: Then
. ftrain off the Liquor and pour it into the Citern to be iced.
Musk
New Instructions for Liquors. 3

Muk-rofe Water.
Take, as before, only the Leaves of your Roes, and letthem
infue in two Quarts of Water, with a quarter of a Pound of
Sugar; otherwie beat and pour them out of one Ewer into
another: Then straining all fet them by to cool, and it will
prove a very delicious Liquor.
Pink-water.

Having pick'd the Leaves, throwing away the White and


the Green, ler them be foak'd in the Morning, or during the
Afternoon, with a quarter of a Pound of Sugar, in two Quarts
of Water, in order to be train'd and iced: Otherwie pour
off the Liquor out of one Pot into another, till it has imbib'd
the Scent of the Pinks, after they have been steept therein for
a quarter of an Hour : . Laftly, train it thro' a Sieve, or a
clean Napkin, and fet it by to cool. -

Tuberoa-flower Water. N

The Leaves of thee Flowers are to be taken likewife, with


out the Yellow and the Stalks, and infus'd from the Evening
till the next Morning, or for the pace of half a Day; with a
fufficient quantity of Sugar. Otherwife, if it be requifite to
prepare it fooner, the Liquor may be beat up, as before, by
pouring it out of one Pot into another, till it be well impregna
ted with the Tuberofa-flowers: Then it mut be train'd thro a
Sieve, or a Linnen-cloth, and well iced,

5feffamin-water.
Take two Handfuls of Jeffamin-flowers, and let them infue
in one or two Quarts of Water, with a good quarterofa Pound
of Sugar: For a quicker dipatch, the Liquor may be beat up,
ftrain'd and fet by to cool.
Thus fuch Waters as thee may be eaily made after the
| fame manner, of all kinds of Flowers that have a weet and
pleaant Smell. -

AHomp

---, *--------------~--~--~ ~~~--


4 New Instructions for Liquors.

How to ice all forts of Waters and Liquors.


For that purpoe, a kind of Citern in form of a Box is to be
vided, which may be of any convenient fize, but fet out on
the infide with Tin-moulds, into which the Liquors are to be
put. Thee Moulds or other Vefels being fixdin order on this
Citern, and cover'd with their repective Lids, the remaining
void Spaces are to be fill'd up with broken Pieces of Ice, as
alo with feveral Handfuls of Salt strew'd up and down every
where and laid over the Moulds; by which means, the Li
quors will effetually congeal: A Hole ought alo to be made
in the Citern, about the middle of its height, to give paage
to the Water, into which the Ice diolves by degrees, let it
fhould over-flow the Moulds: Then care muft be taken from
rime to time, to break the Ice, that is firt made on the Sur
face, and to put Salt again quite round about the Moulds, to
caue the ret to freez: Laftly, when the Liquors are ready to
be ferv'd up to Table, the China-dihes and other Cups, are to
be fill'd with thee little Pieces of Ice.
/

c h a r. II.
Of the iced Waters of Fruits, &c.
- Cherry-mater.
HA ing made choice of Cherries that are very ripe, let them
** be clear'd from their Stones and Stalks, bruis'd, and teept
in Water; allowing a Quart for every two Handfuls of Fruit,
with a quarter of a Pound of Sugar: If they are not fet by to
infue for fome Hours, the Water mut be beat up, by pouring
it feveral times out of one Pot into another; then it may be
strain'd, and iced in the Cistern. -

Strawberry-water.
After the Strawberries have been well pick'd and bruis'd, let
the Juice be mingled with uch a quantity of Water and Sugar,
AS

------ ^ -----------------
New Instrns for Liquors. 5
s may be ufficient to make a pleaant Liquor: Then let all be
clarified and train'd, fqueezing out the gros Substance strong
ly, to give the Water a red Colour. If you have no mind to
ice this Liquor ir mut be made clear, paffing it thro' the
$Doubles. ss. or thro a Napkin folded into three or four

Rafberry-water.
This Water is made after the fame manner as the former;
the proper Tinture and Smell may alo be given to both forts,
without the Colour, by making ue of white Strawberries or
Rasberries.

Curran-mater.

Let the ripet Currans be bruis'd, fqueez'd and infus'd in


Water, with Sugar for five or fix Hours ; then strain the Li
quor thro' a Sieve, if you would have it iced : Otherwife if
it be deign'd for a cooling Drink, you need only clarifie it, by
paffing it thro' the Straining-bag.
Apricock-water.
Let very ripe Apricocks, that have been pared, ton'd, and cut
into Pieces, be put into Water that has boil'd for fome time;
adding a quarter of a Pound of Sugar to every Quart of Water :
After the Fruit has infus'd for fome time, the Work may be fi
nih'd according to the preceeding Method, by often beat
ing and pouring the Liquor out of one Vefel into another:
it may be strain'd or made clear, in order to be iced, or
cool d.,

Peach-water

Is prepard after the fame manner as that of Apricocks; but


'tis obervable, That all thee forts of Liquors, made of Fruits,
that have no great mell, may be perfumd with Amber or
Musk, at dicretion.

Orange

- ~- - - ----------- - - ----- - ~ _
-
5 New Instructions for Liquors.
Orange-water.
Squeez out the Juice of three or four Sevil:Oranges, into
two Quarts of Water, and teep the Pulp and Zests in the fame
Water, during ome Hours, with a good Piece of Sugar. This
Liquor for a quicker dipatch, may be beat up by pouring it
often out of one Pot into another; and then it may be strain'd
thro a Bag or Sieve, in order to be cool'd oriced: The Juice
of a Lemmon added, will give it a more agreeable rartnes.
Lemmon-water.

Having in like manner fqueez'd out the Juice of three or


four Lemmons into two Quarts of Water, let the Pulp and
, Zets be foak'd therein, with a quarter of a Pound of Sugar,
during fome Hours: Then train the Liquor, as before and fet
it by, to be iced or cool'd. -

Orangeade.
To make this Liquor, a greater quantity of Oranges is re
quiite than for the common Orange-water; that is to ay, fix
Oranges and two Lemmons, for every Quart of Water. The
juice of thefe is to be fqueez'd out, and the Zests left to teep
for fome titne ; or elfe the Water mut be beat up by pouring
it out of one Por into another: Then prefing the Oranges, the
Liquor may be train'd and fet by to cool.
Limonnade,

A very good fort of Limonnade may be prepard, by allow


ing three Lemmons to a Quart of Water, with a quarter of a
Pund of Sugar, and thee Ingredients may be proportionably
augmented, accord:rg to the Quantity deigned: After having
fqueez'd out the Juige of your Fruit into the Water, leave the
Pulp and Zets to infue for a confiderable time ; rhen prefs
the Lemtrioti-pulp and Peel, train the Liquor, and fet it by to
cool. Several forts of weet-melling Flowers may be added
to this Limonnade, to heighten its Scent and Flavour ;, which
may alo be done with Amber or Musk, beaten before in a
Mortar, with a little Sugar, or Sugar-candy, and afterwards
put into the Liquor. . Ano -

-- - -- - -- - - ---- -
-- - - -
*<--- - ---- -------- --------*------- -- ~~~--~
*

New Instraffions for Liquors. 7

Another fort of Limonnade.


|
Let two Quarts of Wine, one Pint of Water, with the Juice
and Zets of two Lemmons, be put into an earthen Pan, ad
ding nine or ten Ounces of Sugar, more or les, according to
your own inclination and the Quality of the Wine: After
wards having left thee Ingredients to infue about half an
Hour, pour the Liquor thro' the Straining-bag, and dipoe of
it in Bottles. -

Anaher fn.
- Having provided Cedres, Citrons, or large Lemmons, take
all that part which contains the Juice, and eparate them from
the Kernels; cutting them into Quarters, or otherwie: In
the mean while, let fome Sugar be boil'd up to its Blown Qua
lity, that is to ay, a Pound for every douzen of Citrons, or .
Lemmons, and when it has attain'd to that Degree, throw in
the Juice ; leaving all to boil together, till it return to the
Pearled Degree: Then pour the Syrup thro a Sieve fet over
an earthen Pan, and keep it in Glas-bottles for ue: This Li
quor is very delicious and cooling,, when a mall quantity of it
is mingled with Water bearen and 'd feveral times out of
one Veffel into another, that it may be well diluted.
A Limonnade may alo be made even with the Leaves of the
Citron-tree; which are very odoriferous and full of a pleaant
and cooling Juice; but it can only be put in pratice in Coun
tries, where uch Trees are more common than in thee Cli
mates. Laftly, a kind of Liquor may be prepar'd without any
Citrons or Lemmons, which nevertheles has the tate of Li
monnade; by the means of a few drops of Spirit of Salt; being
no lefs ueful and wholeome; for the Virtues of this Spirit are
very particular and well known; upon which account, it is
fometimes ued intead of Verjuice in Sauces and Ragoos.
WhiteWater, or Virginal Water.
Take as much Milk as may be ufficient to whiten the quan
tity of Water you would have F :and to give it a tin
ture or relih ; adding a quarter of a Pond of Sugar to eve
ry Quart, and queezing in the Juice of a Lemmon, which will
much
8 New Instructions for Liquors.
much promote the pleaantnes of its taste: Then pour it thro' .
a Sieve as other Liquors of the like nature, to clear it from the
dros of the Sugar; but if you do not deign to ice it, only let
it pas thro' the Straining-bag.
Chocolate-water.

This Water, as well as the former, may be us'd in the Win


ter, and at any time when the above-mentioned Flowers and
Fruits are wanting. It is prepar'd only by grating fome Cho
colate into Water, accordingly as the quantity requires, and ad
ding a good quarter of a Pound of Sugar to every Quart: Af
terwards, ing well teept and infus'd for fome time, the
Liquor must strain'd in order to be iced or cool'd.
"{#if:

Is a pleaant Liquor made of pounded Almonds, with Milk


and clarified Sugar; but it will not keep long; becaue it is
foon apt to grow fo greafie and unctuous, that it afterwards
becomes very diagreeable to the Palate, and conequently fit
only to be thrown away.

C H A P. III.

Of Liquors that are proper for the Winter-Seafon.


Som of the Liquors above-decribed, as Qrangeade, Limon
nade, Roade, Chocolate-water, Milk-water, &c. may
alo be ued in the Winter; but thoe that more properly be
long to this Quarter, which may likewie reciprocally take place
in the other Seafons, are the particular Waters of Cinnamon,
Coriander, Anis, and Juniper, feveral forts of Hippocras, Ra-
tafiaz, &c.
Cinnamon-water.
Take the bet Cinnamon well beaten, and infue it for the
fpace of three Days in a Veffel of double Glas, with Roe
water, or common Water, a Pint of White-wine, and Sugar
pro
New Instruttions for Liquors. 9
portionably tothequantity: To that fe, the Vefelmust
fet upon hot Embers, or in awarm Place, and well cover'd;
then the Liquor may be train'd and kept for ue.
Another Way of Preparing it.
Upon any urgent occafion, ome beaten Cinnamon may be
taken, that is to ay half an Ounce for every Quart of Water,
and boil'd together with Sugar, till it be half conumd: Then
ftrain your Liquor and it will be very pleaant,
. The Water may alo be boil'd alone, and when it is taken off
from the Fire, the beaten Cinnamon is to be thrown in, with a
quarter of a Pound of Sugar; as oon as the Liquor is cold, it
mut be train'd as befor.
Another more fimple Water may be made only by caufing
the Cinnamon to be steept in it at Night till the next Morning,
or from Morning to the Evening of the fame Day: Then it
mut be train'd and fet by to cool after the fame manner as the
above-mentioned Liquors.
Coriander-feed Water.
Let a Handful of Coriander-feed taken out of its Husk or
Cod, be put into a Quart of Water, with a quarter of a Pound
of Sugar; leaving all to foak, till the Water tastes trong of
the Seeds, and the Sugar is diolved: Afterwards, having beat
up the Liquor, by pouring it out of one Por into another, let it
be train'd and cool'd, or iced, accordingly as occafion ferves.
Anis-feed Water.
Take a Handful of Anis-feed well cleanfed, and infue it in
a Quart of Water, with a quarter of a Pound of Sugar: As
foon as the Water is ufficiently impregnated, train it off, and
if you think fit, add a little Brandy, to enrich it, when it is
not defign'd to be cool'd or iced. *

In the Summer, a fort of Anis-water may be made, by cau


Leaves only of that Plant, epecially the tops of them,
to be teept for a confiderable time. The fame thing may b
done with another fort of Herb call'd Burnet ; o that thee two
Liquors may well be added to the others that have been before
and appropriated to the Summer-Seaon.
Cleve
IO New Instruions for Liquors.

Clove-water. s

This Water is not made of Cloves alone, becaue its Scent


would be too trong and offenfive to the Brain; therefore fome
Cinnamon is uually intermixt, and eight or ten Cloves may be
fufficient for a Quart of Water, with a good Piece of Sugar:
After all has been infus'd for fome time over hot Embers, or in
a warm place, the Liquor may be train'd, and it will prove
very pleaant. -

Juniper-water
Is prepar'd by infuing a Handful of Juniper-berries in two
Quarts of Water, with fome Sticks of Cinnamon and Sugar:
Then the Work may be finih'd as before; unles you have a
mind to add a little Brandy, to render the Liquor mre pleaant
and efficacious. - -

Kernel-water.
Having pour'd two Quarts of good Brandy into an earthen
Pitcher, put in two Ounces of the Kernels of Cherries well
pounded, or ele an Ounce and a half of Apricock-kernels like
wife well pounded, with the Skin; as alo, almot a quarter
of a Dram of Cinnamon, two Cloves, as much Coriander-feed
as may be taken up between two Fingers, nine or ten Ounces
of Sugar, and abut two Glaes of boil'd Water, after it is be
come cold: Then the Pitcher mut be well topt and all the In
gredients left to infue for the pace of two or three Days: Af
terwards.pour your Liquor thro' the Straining-bag, till it be
clear and put it into Bottles, which mut be kept cloe topt.

C H A P. IV.
Of Hippotras and fome other Liquors. |
|

TH. Liquors are generally prepar'd for Entertainments du |

ring the Winter-eaon, among them the different forts of


Hippocras are more epecially remarkable, viz. HYbite |
W TFE for Liquors. TI

* White Hippocru.
, Take two Quarts of good White-wine, with a Pound of Su
ar, an Ounce of Cinnamon, a little Mace, two Grains of
whole black Pepper and a Lemmon cut into three quarters: Let
all infue tgether for fome time; and afterwards pas thro' a
Straining-bag, which is to be hung up in a convenient place,
with a } funderneath to receive the Liquor, and kept open
by the means of two little Sticks: The Liquor must be train'd
thus three or four times; but if you perceive upon uch Occa
fions, that it does not pas freely, pour in half a Glafs or a
whole Glas of Milk, and that will foon produce the defired
effet. v The mell of Musk or Amber may be given to this
Hippocras, by uing a Grain of either pounded with Sugar;
and wrapt up in Cotton, which may be fasten'd to the end of
the Bag through which the Liquor is trained.
Pak Himeru.
. Let half a Pound of Loaf Sugar broken into mall Lumps,
with half a Lemmon, three or four Cloves, a little Cinnamon
three or four Grains of white and Coriander-feed, and
a few Almonds cut into pieces, be infus'd for an Hour or half
n Hour in a Quart of pale Wine: Then having caus'd all to
be tirr'd about and mingled together let the Liquor pas
thro' the Straining-bag, as before.
Red Hippocrau.
Having pour'd two Quarts of good red Wine into an ear
then Pan, take half a Dram of Cinnamon; a Grain and a half,
or two Grains of white Pepper; a little long Pepper; half a
Leaf of Mace; and about a Spoonful of Coriander-eed, all
beaten eparately; 'tis alo requiite t provide a Pound or a
Pound and a quarter of Sugar only bruied in a Morrar and
fix weet Almonds likewife bruied, with half a Glas of good
randy. Let all thee Ingredients be steept in your Wine, for
the pace of an Hour, taking care that the Veel into which
they are put, be well cover'd and stopt; and let it be stirr'd a
little with a Spoon, from time to time, to caue the Sugar to,
diflve: Then strain the Liquor * g to the uual
E 2
12 New Instruitions for Liquors.
and if you pleae, give it a weet mell ; but the firt Liquor
that ditills from the Straining-bag, mut be put into it again
two or three feveral times, till it become very clear: After
wards, fet a Bottle with a Funnel underneath, and when it is
full, keep it cloe ftopr. -

Hippocru made more steedily.


Take any fort of Wine that you hall think fit, with the re
quifite quantity of Loaf-Sugar broken into pieces; adding fome
beaten Cinnamon, a few Grains of Coriander-feed, three or
four Grains of Pepper, and a piece of Lemmon, the Juice of
which is to be fqueez'd in. Otherwife intead of all thee In
gredients, only ue a little Cinnamon-effence, if you have any
at hand, and having train'd your Hippocras through the Bag
with a little Milk, it will very well anwer your expectation.
Hippocras without Wine.
Let half a Pound of fine Sugar and a little Cinnamon, with
the other Ingredients above-pecify'd, be put into one or two
Quarts of Water ; and let all infue from Morning to Noon,
or from Noon till Night; the Vefel being well covered: Then
Ist'the Liquor pas thro' the Straining-bag five or fix times, and
give it the fmeil of Musk, or Amber, at dicretion.
Befides this variety of Hippocras, everal Dihes of burnt
Wine and burnt Brandy are alo ferv'd up at Entertainments;
the particular manner of preparing which is every where fo well
known, that it needs no decription.

A delicious fort of Wine.


Put two Lemmons cut into lices, and two Pippins cut in like
manner, into a Dih, with hlf a Pound of Powder-Sugar, a
Quart of good Burgundy-Wine ; fix Cloves, a little bearen Cin;
na non and Orange flower Water; let all be well coverd and
infus'd for three or four Hurs: Then strain it thro' the Bag,
and give it a tincture of Amber or Musk, as either is mot
grceable to your Palate,

,
----
-- --
.-- . C H A P. |
/ -

.*
Mew Instructions for Liquors. 13

C H A P. v.
Several forts of Ratafiaz.
His Liquor is at preent very much in vogue, and may be
made of Cherries, Apricocks and Mufcadine-grapes, ac
cording to the following Intructions. -

Ratafiaz of Cherrics.
Let your Cherries be bruied together with their Kernels,
and put into an earthen Jarr, or into a wooden Barrel ; but a
Cask that has held Brandy, is more epecially proper for that
purpoe: To twenty Pounds of thee Cherries add three Pounds
of Rasberries likewie bruied, with five Pounds of Sugar, three
Penny-worth of Cinnamon, a Handful of white Pepper in grain,
a few Nutmegs, twenty Cloves, and ten Quarts of good Bran
dy: Leave the Veffel untopt during ten or twelve Days, then
ftop it up, and let it continue untouched for the pace of two
Months: Thus a greater quantity may be made, by mingling
the Ingredients proportionably, and the whole may be enrich'd
with fome Drops of Effences and weet Scents. When the Ra
tafiaz is fit for drinking, the Barrel mut be pierc'd above the
Lees, as the Wine-casks are ; but if it be kept in an earthen
Jarr, it must be train'd thro' the Bag, and put into other Ve
fels carefully stopt up, to be us'd as occafion ferves. -

Another Way of making cherry-Ratafiaz.


Having provided ten Pounds of Cherries, let them be bruied
and put into earthen Pitchers with two Quarts of Brandy; then
let the Vestels be well topt, and fet by for five or fix Days, at
the end of which, the Cherries mut be pres'd in a Linnen
cloth to get out all their Juice: In the mean while, let fiv
Pounds of large Curransbe boil'd with three Pounds of Sugar,
and pres'd as the Cherries; fo as both forts of Juices may be
mingled together, allowing for every Quart of that Liquor, a
Quart of Brandy, and a quarter of a Pound of Sugar. Then
add the Kernels of your bruied Cherries, with half a Pound of
Coriander-eed, a littlei Mace,
- * * ** * . ,i .*
Cloves, Cinnamon and long Pep:
, * * -

Es 2 rei,
14 New Instructions for Liquors. .*

per, all pounded together, and fill your Pitchers or other Vef
fels with the Liquor; leaving it to infue for the pace of fix
Weeks: Afterwards it must be pas'd thro' the Straining-bag,
and put again, with the Kernels of Apricock-tones or Cherry
ftones, into the Pitchers, which are to be kept cloe topt, and
the Ratafiaz may be drawn off clear, upon all occafions.
To give the Ratafiaz a tincture of Rasberries, or Straw
berries, ome of it may be prepar'd eparately, with Brandy,
ugar and Cinnamon; or ele the Juice of thee Fruits may
be infus'd at any convenient in part of the Rata
faz: Orange-flowers may alo be preerv'd, which will give
it a very pleaant mell; and to improve its colour, the Juice of
Mulberries may be us'd mingled with Brandy, and clarified
by training it thro' the Bag, Thoe that are prepar'd with
Strawberries and Rasberries may alo be orderd after the fame
manner; and a great variety may be produc'd even out of one
fort of Ratafiaz: Mulberries likewie ferve to bring it to a good
confitence, and make a very weet Liquor, when infus'd with
the other above-mentioned Ingredients. . . . .!

White Ratafiaz, -

Take a Gallon of Wter, a Pound of Sugar, an Ounce of


Cinnamon, with Cloves, white Pepper and Ginger tied up in
a Rag; as alo fome Nutmeg and Mace, and put thee Ingre
dients into a fer over the Fire : To clarifie the Su
gar, throw in the White of an Egg, clear it well from the
Scum, and let all boil together, till at leat one third part be
conumd; if you perceive that the Liquor has not fufficiently
acquir'd the tate of the Ingredients: Then take it off from
the Fire, adding a Quart of Brandy, and let it pas thro' the
Straining-bag, or only thro a fine Sieve ; you_may alo gives
it a fragrant mell, with the Juice of white Strawberries ?
Rasberries, provided eparately in a Pot, as upon other occa
fions, or ele it may be done with Orange-flowers. If for want
of the red forts of Ratafiaz, above-decribed, you are minded
to give this the fame tincture, it may be coloured by the
means of Mulberry-juice; or ele with thick Orleans-Wine, or
fome other of the like nature; or latly, with prepared Co
cheneal. -
Moreover it is expedient for the making of the like white
Ratafiaz, to keep in a Por, the Kernels Cherries and CQC
- - v . -
Apri
t. -- A
New Instractions for Liquors. I5
cocks steept in Brandy, which will erve to enrich it by putting
in a little at dicretion. * *

Apricock-Ratastaz
May be prepar'd two feveral Ways, viz. by cauing the
Apricocks cur into pieces to infue in Brandy for a Day or two;
ar the end of which Term the Liquor must be strain'd thro
the Bag and impregnated with the uual Ingredients. Other
wife, the Apricocks may be boil'd in White-wine, and by that
means more eafily made clear, adding to every Quart of uch
Liquor, a Quart of Brandy, and a quarter of a Pound of Su
ar, with Cinnamon, Cloves, Mace, and the Apricock-kernels:
all have been well teept during eight or ten Days, the
Liquor must be strain'd . and Pur into Bottles or earthe
Pitchers, to be kept for u C
Mucadel-Ratafiaz. *

Having made choice of the bet : that are


very ripe, let them be well prefs'd; allowing for every Quart
of their Juice a Quart of a quarter of a Pound of
Sugar: Then this Liquor mut be pour'dinto earthen Pitchers,
with Cinnamon, Cloves, Mace, and a few Grains of Pepper,
and left to infue for the pace of two or three Days; after
wards let the Ratafiaz be clarified by paffing thro' the Strain
ing-bag, and conveniently put into Bottles; adding a Grain of
, if it be not ufficiently perfum'd.

C H A P. VI.
---- a ***

Of the Syrups of Flowers.


WE are now come to an Article, that has a nearer relation
to the Confetionary Art, than the preceding; altho
fome of the Syrups contain'd therein, are more commonly pre
pard by Apotharies, &c. , --

Syrup
- FTFTFF EEF -- "

Srn of rilas.
-

Take a Pound of pick'd Violets, and beat them in a Mor


tar, with half a Glas of Water, to moiten them a little;
whilst four Pounds of Sugar are brought to the Pearled Quali
: Then taking the Pan of from the Fire, as foon as the
iling finks, throw in your Violets and let ll be well stirr'd
together : Afterwards you are to pres them thrp a fine Lin
nen-cloth, fo as the Syrup may be receiv'd into an earthen Pan,
and put into Bordes, when cold. . . . . . .
* - gros Subtancethat remains may likewife be flippdinto
two Pounds of Pearled Sugar, after the Boilingis ettle: Then
let ll be well mingled together, and pour'd into a Pot; to be .
us'd in the making of Pates and Conferve of Violets, accord
ing to the Instrutions elewhere laid down. The best Violets
for this purpoe, are uch as are of a dark Purple-colour, not
pale, and of a very weet cent; they ought to be gather'd in
the Morning, when no Rain has fallen, and before the Sun has
irripair'd their Virtue. . - |

. . .. .
Anther Way.
syrup of violas miyalo be mide by an Instifion of the
Flowers, according to the following Method: Having causd
fifteen of hot Water to be pour'd upon fix Pounds of
the Flowers, let all foak during eight Hours in an earthen
glazed Pot, that has a straight Month, which must be cloe
ftopt, fo as the Virtue and Smell may not exhale: Then the
Liquor being heated again, and fqueez'd out, add the like
uantity of freh Flowers, which are to be left to infufe in the
manner for eight Hours, and to be trongly pres'd again:
Afterwards Sugar may be put in, as it hall be hereafter hewn
in the Article of Clove-giliflowers; or this Infuion may be kept,
according to the common pratice of Apothecaries,
Syrup of Rofer.
This Syrup may be well prepard after the two mannersbut
now explain'd for that of Violets, or elfe according t the fol
lowing particular Way. Take entire Roes, put them into a
Pot, as before, and pour in as much warm Water; then :
** RE

*
New Instruitions for Liquors. FT7
the Pot, and let all infue for eight Hours on hot Embers: AF
terwards, fet them in a Copper-Pan or in the fame Pot over
a clear Fire, till the Liquo be ready to boil, and fqueez it thro'
a new Linnen-cloth: Lastly; pour this trained Liquor, on the
fame quantity of other freh Roes; let them infue again, ad
continue to do fo for nine Days, changing the Roes every time.
This Infuion may be kept a whole Year, without being poil'd
in Glafs-Viols, provided they be well with Cotton and
double Paper, to the end that its Smell an Virtue may be pre
ferv'd. - -

theSyrup of Violets
Infufion will notmay
keepbe
fo made
well. after the fame manner;
* i; (se but

Syrup of Clove-gillifowers.
Haying provided the best fort of Clove gillistowers ofa live
ly red colour, weigh out three Pounds of thoe that are i
and Put them into an earthen Veel with a ftraight
urh, varnih'd on the infide; Then pour in nine Quar of
Spring-water boiling hot, and dip the Flowers in the Water,
with a wooden Spatula: Let the be well cover'd, and fer
over hot Embers for the pace of an Hour ; at the expiration of
which the Infufion mut have a little Boiling, in orde
ftrain'd and queez'd; it mut alo be heated again, and pour'd
hot on three Pounds of freh Flowers put into the fame effel:
This, Liquor is to be mingled with fix Pounds of good Sugar
boil'd till it become Pearled, and clarify'd with the White
Egg: Afterwards, the whle Me must be pourd into a Sieve
fer over an' earthen Pan, or ele, strain'd thro' a fine Lin
cloth. - **..
-
. This Syrupis of admirable eficacy against any Infetion of
the Air and malignant Feavers, and is a great Retorative for
Weaknes of Body; more epecially ftrengthening the Heart
and Brain, when taken alone in a Spoon, or in ordinary
*

, . * * * C H A P.
-
*

18 New Instructions for Liquors. " 4

C H A P. VII.
Of the Syrups of Fruits, &c.
THe remaining forts of Syrups are no le advantagious than
the former, and of fingular ufe in private Families.
Syrup of Mulberries.
^ After having caus'd two Pounds of good Sugar to be boild
till it has acquir'd its Blown quality, let a Pound of Mulber
ries be thrown in, and give them eight or ten Boilings: Then
all into a Sieve fet over an earthen Pan, and put the Sy
rupinto Bottles, to be kept as long as you hall think fit and
us'd as occain ferves. -

It may alo be made by prefing the Mulberries to get their


Juice, which is to be put into a Pan with a Pound of Sugar,
and the whole boil'd till it become Pearled. This Syrup is
well known to be a Soveraign Remedy for Distempers of th
Throat and other Indipoitions of the like nature.

Syrup of Cherries.
| Let two Quarts of the Juice of Cherries be first pas'd thro'
the Straining-bag, to cleane it, (which is alo requfite to be
done in all other cafes) and then put to a Pound and a half of
Sugar: Afterwards having brought the Syrup to the Pearled
Degree of Boiling, as before, let it be fet by, and put into Vials,
when cold ; to be mingled with beaten Water, in order t make
a cooling Drink, upon any emergent occafion. . . , -

Otherwife (according to the first Method for the ordering of


Syrup of Mulberries) you need nly to brie the Cherries and
throw them into Sugar that has attain'd to its Blown Quality;
fo that after ten or twelve Boilings, all may be pour'd into a
Sieve, fer over ome Veffel, to receive the Syrup.
, Moreover having caus'd the Cherries to cat their Juice by
prefing them in a Copper-Pan over the Fire, this Juice likewie
put into Blown Sugar, and left to boil till it becomes
E3F1CCI

syrup
W EFEFEFEF F5
syrup of currans and other forts of cooling Fruit.
i :,, provided Curran-juice:clarify'd by paffing it thro'
the Straining-bag, let as much Sugar be made almost Crack'd :
Then mingle both together, and you'll perceive, that the Sy
rup has attain'd to the neceary degree of Boiling. ThisSyrup
may prepar'd after the ame tas that of Mulber
ries already explain'd; as well as Syrup o Pomegranates, and
others of the like nature that are proper for cooling.
|
- - {( - *
Syrup of Apriroch.
* *** * * (* , " r -

|: : Foramuch as this Syrup is aft to grow greafie, it ought only


to be made for preent ue, according to one of the two follow
ing Methods. Let very ripe pricocks be cutinio pieces and
ry

thrown into Blown Sugar, with rhe Kernels bruied, fo as they


* *

Then pour all thro a Sieve, and let the Syrup that runs thro'
be put into proper Vefels; allowing a Pound of Sugar for eve- ,
, ry half Pound of Fruit. Theother Way is as follows; Having
par'd and flit your Apricocks in rhe middle, fet them in order
upon little Stickslaida-cros an earthen Pan, and pur Powder
Sugar on every Bedor Row; making ue of the above-men
tioned Quantity; thus they are to be left in a cool place, till
the next Day: Afterwards flip the Apricocks into a little hor
Water, and turn all out upon a Linnen-cloth to drain without
prefing the Fruit; fe that this Juice together with that which
*
the Apricocks have already let fall into the Pan, will ferve to
inake the Syrup, by cauing them to boil, with the uual Pre
cautions, to the Pearled Degree. f

Syrup of Quinces.
This syrup may be made with the Pulp of osinces grated
or cur into mall flices, and fqueez'd in a Linnen-cloth, to get
their Juice, which is to be cleard by leaving it to fettle in the
Sun, or before the Fire : In the mean while, having caus'd a
Pound of Sugar to be brought to its Blown Quality, let it be
mingled with four Ounces of this Juice ; but if the Sugar hould
by that means be too much depres'd, ir may have a few Boil- K.
ings afreh, till it returns to the Pearled Degree; and the Syrup, . . ?
*hen cold, may be put into Bottles.
F f Syrup
N

2o : New Instructions for Liquors.


Syrup of Bell-grapes, and others. -
Syrup of Bell-grapes is made with their Juice clarified after
the fame manner as that of Quinces, and four Onces of it are
likewie ufficient for a Pound of Sugar, which mut attain to
its Blown degree of Boiling, before the Juice is incorporated
with it. If the Grapes are more ripe, a Syrup may be made of
them, according to the Method before laid down for Mulberries
Syrup of Lemmons may alo be prepard conformably to
thee Instructions. , *' -
**** - -/
- \ " ,

Syrup of Sugar.
Pour Spirit of Wine upon Sugar-candy to the height of a
Finger's breadth, and fet all over the Fire, till it comes to the
Confistence of a Syrup; which may be us'd to very good pur
pofe in promoting the Cure of Distempers of the Lungs and
Coughs. : ' ' * * * - * * }

The Juices of all forts of Fruit. !

To get the Juice of Cherries, Currans, Mulberries, Rasber


berries, Strawberries, &c. you only wrap them up in a new
Linnen-cloth, and caue them to be well prefs'd: The Juice
of Oranges, Lemmons, Pomegranates, Quinces and other Fruit
of the like nature is uuali e tracted by cutting them firt into
ieces or round lices, and then fqueezing or prefing them, as
efore. Afterwards, take care to clarifie by putting
them into Bottles to fettle in the Sun for feveral Days, and
when the gros Subtance finks to the bottom, pour off the Li
quor by degrees, in order to be pas'd thro' the Straining-bag.
Then the may be us'd for Syrups, or kept in Bottles,
covering their Surface with Oil of Olives, which as occaion
ferves is to be gently taken away with Cottan. Latly, In the
Winter-eaon thee Juices are to be preerv'd in a warm Place
to prevent them from freezing, and by this means, they'll be al
ways ready at hand for preent ufe. - -

F I N I S. * Y
|
PRESERVATION SERVICE

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