I.E.S.

en Lenguas Vivas Juan Ramn Fernndez

AO 2017
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http://www.ausdaily.net.au/the-history-of-mens-shoes-styles/

The History of Mens Shoes Styles

January 12, 2017

You dont need to look much further than todays social media platforms to see men are
now just as eager as women to put in 100% when it comes to looking their best. Selfies
taken from practised angles show off every sexy pose, whilst every of lifes YOLO
moments are captured from trendy gastro-food-porn, to latest fashion purchases like
a hot new pair of heels. Once an arena reserved for the fairer sex, the world of beauty
and fashion has now broadened to include a growing male focus. Skin care ranges
designed for the modern man mean many of us now have to fight for time in the
bathroom! Side-by-side we cleanse, tone and moisturise with our male counterparts
and sometimes even fight over the hairdryer- not to mention the heat protecting
morroccan hair oil

And when it comes to wardrobe space, many of our sisters have had to relegate
substantial portions of their prized threads to make way for the Mrs multitude of chinos,
blazers and yep shoes! I guess we could look at these growing social trends within a
capitalist framework. But that would be boring. Instead its way more fun to look at the
history of male fashion trends and see that throughout the ages, mens fashion has
seen the birth of some quirky, outrageous as well as iconic styles that have stood the
test of time.

An overview of this entire subject would be beyond the scope of this humble article.
Rather, this article will focus on the shoe. And because we really want to narrow it
down- we will explore the world of mens shoes. 1

Back in the day (were talking waaay back like, in the medieval period), new shoes
were the prielege of a small group of societys elite. Obviously other members of
society wore shoes, but these poor folk we forced to make do with practical offerings,
usually made from cheap materials that would require ongoing repair. Meanwhile, the
wealthier classes and their aristocratic mates lavished their fortunes on the latest
trends, often including the unique and artistic and sometimes just outright bizarre!

1 NOTE: for a detailed exploration of the history of womens shoes, we recommend watching the entire
catalogue of Sex and the City. Trust me.

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So whilst the poorer classes were getting around in scrappy sandals, the rich guys
were strutting their stuff wearing shoes made of leather, silk and other luxurious
materials sourced from exotic locations around the globe. For most of the sixteenth
century footwear was simply flat however prior to this period, we saw the emergence of
an extreme style called the pike or poulaine. This style of shoe was characterized by
a rather pointed toe which could be as long as 10cms in length. We still see examples
of this out-there style in contemporary mens shoes, most commonly in formalwear.

Things got a little fancier around the beginning of the seventeenth century, when along
came arched soles and heeled shoes for men. With James I was in charge (1603-
1625), trends in mens shoe styles celebrated the unashamedly flamboyant; masculine
court fashion was soon embracing stockings and men were even able to choose from a
range of shoe decorations including silk roses and bows. Both beautiful statements of
style and a symbol of ones wealth, these extravagant shoes did however experience a
down-time as war raged in Britain
and Europe. During this time
mens popular fashion reflected a
heavy military influence, and
military-inspired boots became the
benchmark for mens footwear
fashion. Various interpretations of
the boot were now hitting the
streets in a big way, including
popular knee high boots made
from quality leather. From a
humble riding boot to military-
tough footwear, the boot was
transformed into a fashion icon that perfectly married practicality with elegance.

At around this time the French court styles were also starting to set the tone for the rest
of the world, and it was their penchant for the buckle that saw the iconic boot takes
another pivotal turn in the fashion history books. These must-have additions to the boot
would be bought separately, and a smorgasbord of precious stones and metals were
available to consumerswealth and social standing always dictating quality, of course.

There was another important social milestone taking place during this period: mass
production and the development of new manufacturing technologies. Factory produced
shoes were now made available to common folk, many of whom enjoyed an increase in

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their earnings thanks to new employment opportunities in the booming manufacturing

industry.

Lets fast-forward a bit to the nineteenth century because its here we see the birth of
some of THE most iconic styles of mens shoes. At this time the hottest looks focused
on variations of the ankle boot; the Brogue and also the Balmoral were the most
popular, the Balmoral available to consumers in a range of popular styles including the
Oxford and Derby.

During the mid-nineteenth century, manufacturing industries employed increasingly

mechanised production methods. Mass production meant many more people could
now access affordable footwear. Consequently however, this triggered the rapid decline
of hand-crafted mens shoes and retailers soon replaced shoemakers.

We now take an even bigger leap in time, arriving safely in the post WWII period, a
time of booming industry and post-modern reverie. During this phase we see an ever-
expanding variety of shoe styles and most importantly, an array of good quality shoes
available at price points to suit every echelon of society. With mass production once
again flourishing, countries like China were emerging as dominant trade leaders whilst
on the other side of the globe the trend-setting Italians were still famous for their quality
often hand-made footwear. Interestingly, it was the post-war youth revolution that once
again injected an experimental flavour into the world of mens fashion; brands like
Docotor Marten were emerging as were designs like winklepickers, brothel creepers
and iconic Chelasea boots.

Following the flower-power movement of the 60s, footwear got a little sporty and the
sexy 70s saw the emergence of trainers and sneakers, footwear for all tastes and
ages. This omnipresent style is once again enjoying a resurgence on the runways, with
hot new kicks no longer reserved to the sporty crowd. Often associated with hip-hop
culture, iconic sneakers are now considered must haves and take the wearer from the
tennis court to a semi-formal afternoon at your local gastro-pub. And the world of the
sneaker-freak is no longer confined to the male market; the androgynous appeal of this
style of footwear means women and men can enjoy an array of unisex options.

However not all styles enjoy such wide mass appeal, as gendered notions of fashion
are still pervasive in post-modern times. No better example of this can be found in the
classic heel/pump style shoe; gender politics may have come a long way baby, but we

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are yet to see the heel/pump infiltrate the male market. Similarly, styles like the Oxford
and Derby are still considered predominantly male styles of footwear.

To this point this article has focused on (OK skimmed over!) some of the major
movements in mens footwear over time. We will now take a slight detour and instead
focus on the more technical side of shoe design, including but not limited to, definitions
of the anatomy of the shoe.

The upper This refers to the main part of the shoe. The upper is the leather or
canvas that is seen above the sole when a shoe is worn. The upper can further be
broken down into many key points (the vamp, the heel, the eyelets, etc.), but as a
whole it is everything which actually covers the foot when wearing the shoe.

The insole As the name eloquently suggests, the insole refers to the lining of the
inside of the show. It is the part of the shoe which the foot comes into contact with
when worn.

The outsole Yep, you guessed it, the outsole refers to the bottom of the show. Made
from plastic, rubber of leather, this material is what comes in contact with the ground
while walking.

The welt Usually a feature of more expensive quality footwear, the welt refers to the
think piece of leather which attached the upper to the outsole of the show.

The last When constructing a shoe, you firstly need a last! The last here refers to a
three-dimensional model of the foot and it is on this that the entire show is moulded
and constructed.

Taking another detour, this article will now explore some of the key styles of mens
shoes. Some of terms you may remember from earlier in this article, others may be
new but ALL will help you better understand the world of mens footwear.

Brogue: This term refers to and describes the baseline for formal mens shoes.
Historically, brogues were recognised by their decorative perforations on the upper,
particularly the tip of the show. Made from multiple pieces of leather, the decorative
features of brogues make them the quintessential choice for formal footwear.

Oxford: This is a classic variation of the traditional brogue and is characterised by a

closed lace style. Worn both casually and formally, the Oxford is a simply designed

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shoe that has withstood the test of time. Decorations and adaptations to the toe cap
can alter the shoes wearability, taking it from an informal setting to an after-5
engagement with some simple design twists.
Derby The Derby is another popular adaptation of the popular Brogue style. The key
defining difference between the Oxford and the Derby is evidenced in the lace
structure; the Derby has an open laced structure which creates tabs on the eyelets.
Although still a simply constructed shoe, the Derby offers the wearer more creative
options the eyelet tabs allow manufactures to add more decoration and adornments.

Blucher: Much like the Derby, the Blucher show typically features an open laced
construction. The Derby and Blucher are often interchangeable terms however the
major difference between the two styles relates to the way in which materials are
added to the vamp. On the Derby we see the quarters overlap the vamp to the form the
eyelets, whilst on the Blucher, the stays are made from smaller materials, creating a
more demure appearance.

Loafer: This style of shoe exists in a category often associated with relaxation and
comfort. Similar to a moccasin construction rather than a brogue, these slip on shoes
are typically made from leather or soft suede. Loafers compliment a multitude of styles,
from smart casual to formal.

Monk strap: Much like iconic loafer, the monk strap (sometimes referred to as just
monk) does not feature laces. Rather, the monk uses either a double or single buckle
strap across the top of the upper to fasten. Measures of formality position the monk
strap somewhere between the Oxford and Derby but what sets this show apart is its
striking rarity compared to the two afore mentioned brogue styles.

Whole cut: Once again the name says it all! Of all the various mens shoes, this style is
clearly the most formal. Constructed using a single piece of leather, the Whole Cut is
without distinctive vamps or quarters and derives its elegance from its sheer simplicity
of style. Perfect for a ball, wedding or any other uber-formal occasion, these shoes also
feature a closed lace design like its Oxford cousin.

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http://www.ausdaily.net.au/fear-returns-to-thailand/

Fear returns to Thailand

August 13, 2016

International embassies are caution visitors to Thailand become vigilant

The Thai prime minister, Prayut Chan-o-cha, features called for calm and
purchased security is increased across urban areas and areas well-
liked by tourists.

Four people have been confirmed dead. Thirty-five individuals have been
injured, including 10 foreign tourists. A summary of the tourists brands
was introduced, they range in age from 16 to 48 and can include two
Dutch women and a Dutch man.

Police have actually detained some suspects and blamed local

sabotage. They usually have specifically denied the involvement of
terrorist insurgents from the south for the country, which experts state
have been involved in long-running battles utilizing the Thai state.
There has been no claims of responsibility.

There have-been several explosions in nine situations in about five

separate areas across Thailand in past times 24 hours (Hua Hin,
Phuket, Phang Nga, Surat Thani, Trang).

The assaults be seemingly at least partly concentrating on places where

tourism is very important.

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Security services tend to be increasing presence at transport hubs.

Phuket international airport, plus some railways stations and roadways
have-been closed in affected provinces.

If tourists in Thailand are hurt or die, there are numerous reasons for such tragedies.
The most damaging wasover twelve years ago, the causes of nature the tsunami. In
other situations, tourists have ,met their demise because of cars. When you look at the
chaotic traffic into each area through the night. Occasionally a careless captain crashes
with his loaded speedboat on a rock. The potential risks alleged tropical haven are
numerous. But hardly ever there were bomb attacks, which given to horror one of the
tourists in Thailand.

That changed this past year when in an extremely mysterious attack in heart of
Bangkok at a spiritual shrine twenty individuals died, including many Asian tourists.
Now the fear of the bombs flared again in the middle of the summertime period, after
explosions at different places about four people killed and dozens injured, including
three German.

For ruling Thai generals just who could

vote on a questionable draft
constitution that politically extremely
vulnerable people several days ago, the
physical violence show could come at a
worse time. The military thought just
strengthened by a majoritarian Yes
in referendum, which cemented their
power eventually constitutionally.
But now it really works once more weak and instead helpless after she was not able to
prevent the assaults regarding royal city of Hua Hin and its tourist centers like Phuket
and Surat Thani.

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http://www.canberratimes.com.au/federal-politics/political-news/all-australian-universities-commit-to-releasing-sexual-
assault-data-20170405-gve63t.html

All Australian universities commit to releasing sexual assault

data

Eryk Bagshaw

Every one of Australia's universities has committed to simultaneously releasing data on

sexual assaults on their campuses after concerns were raised about a landmark survey
of 39,000 students that would not reveal how many assaults had occurred at each
institution.

Universities Australia secured the commitment from all 39 universities to release

individual data on Wednesday in what has been described as "an incredibly important
step" by the peak body's chairman and Vice-Chancellor of the Western Sydney
University, Barney Glover.

"It is something that has never happened in the world on this sort of scale and it is
equally important that when the national report is released that universities release
their institutional data at exactly the same time," said Professor Glover.

"We all recognise the importance of this issue, there have been all-too-frequent
concerns expressed and it was time that we came together with this high on our
agenda, and we resolved to address it."

On Tuesday, Fairfax Media revealed Universities Australia and the Human Rights
Commission had been been accused of "unconscionable research" and "betraying" the
students who participated in the survey because they would not release data on
individual universities.

In February, universities were accused of "actively covering up sexual assaults" after a

submission to the commission alleged there had been just six expulsions in the past
five years despite more than 500 official complaints. Examples included students
referring to an oval as a "rape oval", calling cask wine "slut juice" and residential
quarters "slut alley".

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University leaders have long privately acknowledged that the most effective way to
initiate change was to release data on a university-by-university basis to encourage
those with the worst results to improve. On Tuesday, the Human Rights Commission,
which led the research on the survey, said it would urge university leaders to publicly
release the data on their institutions, in addition to the national data that would be
released by the commission.

Universities Australia Chief Executive Belinda Robinson said the work was led by vice-
chancellors, so it should come as no surprise that universities confirmed the release of
their institutional figures.

Professor Barney Glover, the Chair of Universities Australia. Photo: Sally Tsoutas

"University vice-chancellors commissioned the survey out of an absolute determination

to address and prevent sexual assault and harassment, as part of the ground-
breaking Respect. Now. Always.initiative," Ms Robinson said.

Nina Funnell, who led a campaign for universities to release the data simultaneously,
said she welcomed the latest development.

Nina Funnell claimed the research was "grossly unethical". Photo: Supplied

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"Students have a right to this information, and potential future students have a right to
access to information for their own safety," said the former winner of the Human Rights
Commission's community award and a former member of the NSW Premier's Council
to Prevent Violence Against Women.

"This would never have happened where it not for the pressure that has been applied
through the activities of advocates and survivors."

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4383178/Tourist-held-security-thought-amplifier-BOMB.html

British tourist is held in an Egyptian cell for three

days after security forces mistook his homemade
iPod amplifier for a BOMB as he tried to board
flight home
Robert Lapham was trying to fly home to UK from Egypt when he was
arrested
They mistook his homemade iPod speaker made out of a tin for a bomb
He was held for three days and says he feared 'being handed over to Isis'
Carry-on laptops and tablets are now banned on flights from Egypt to
Britain
Country is among six in the Middle East part of the ban introduced last
month

By KEILIGH BAKER FOR MAILONLINE

PUBLISHED: 15:46 BST, 5 April 2017 | UPDATED: 17:04 BST, 5 April 2017

A British tourist trying to fly home was detained for three days by Egyptian security forces
because they thought his homemade mint tin iPod amplifier was a bomb.

Robert Lapham had 'visions of being handed to ISIS' by Egyptian security forces after
they mistook a headphone amplifier stuffed inside the Altoids tin for a bomb.

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The father-of-three, 54, says he feared he would be shot while being detained for 75
hours after the small tin sparked a security alert.

+4

Robert Lapham (pictured in Egypt with

wife Julie) had visions of being handed
to ISIS by Egyptian security forces after
they mistook a headphone amplifier
inside the tin for a bomb

He was returning from a week-long break with wife Julie on the first day of the electronic
device ban when he was stopped at Marsa Alam airport, 80km from the Red Sea resort.

Egypt is among six countries where on flights from the Middle East to the United States
and Britain carry-on laptops and tablets are banned. The other countries affected by the
ban, introduced last month, are Turkey, Lebanon, Jordan, Tunisia and Saudi Arabia.

Robert and Julie, 54, were stopped at around 3:30pm on March 29, and the couple were
both detained for three hours. But once they had already missed their flight, Julie was
sent back to the hotel, and Robert was taken on a 240km drive by the security services.

Robert, who lives in Sevenoaks, Kent, said: 'To start with, they weren't saying anything,
which made it a lot more scary.

+4

He was returning from a week-long break with wife

Julie on the first day of the electronic device ban
when he was stopped at Marsa Alam airport, 80km
from the Red Sea resort

'Ours was the first flight out of Marsa Alam with the new rules and they were obviously on
top of it, there was a woman from the British Embassy there checking everything was
okay.

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'They saw my amplifier, which is an Altoid tin2 which opens up containing batteries, and
were really interested in it - not in a good way. 'I showed them what it was and how it
worked, but more and more people got involved, and suddenly there were 12 officers.
'We were taken off to one side, away from everyone, and put in a different part of
terminal.

+4

Full-time lorry driver Robert was escorted to a van, where he was driven
80km to a police station with five national security guards

'It started getting round to the time of flight and I asked about it and they said 'the flight's
gone' and that was it. 'I was put in a corridor upstairs on my own, and the airport
manager came and saw me and said it was serious and they had to get the police
involved. 'I got hold of our holiday rep at Thomson and luckily the person I got hold of
said they would do whatever they could to get through to the foreign office and help.'

Full-time lorry driver Robert was then escorted to a van, where he was driven 80km to a
police station with five national security guards. He says at one point he feared for his life
when they stopped mysteriously in the middle of the desert.

Robert, dad to Jonathan, 30, Christopher, 28, and Nicholas, 25, added: 'I was terrified -
I'm not a wimpy kind of guy but they just stopped in the pitch black and turned the engine
off.

'I really thought I'd be shot, I had visions of being handed over to ISIS and becoming the
next James Foley. 'But they just had a chat and then drove back the other way - 80km to
the police station in Marsa Alam itself - without saying a word on the way.

2 Famous American brand of hard candies

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'When we got there, the guy in charge just went in, handed over some paperwork, and
then we drove 140km to El Quseir. There was a state prosecutor waiting at 3.30am, and
he convened and held a hearing. 'There was an interpreter who had come all the way
from the airport so I finally found out what was going on. Luckily, we'd had time to find the
eBay advert where I'd bought the amplifier and the prosecutor could see what it was.

+4

Robert and Julie, 54, were stopped at around 3:30pm

and were both detained for three hours

'He said it was like a bomb without explosives,

but surely anything could be with batteries in? 'In
the end, he said it was 'nothing to worry about, no
problem, everything's okay'.'

After the hearing, Robert, who suffers from arthritis, was forced to spend almost three
days in a tiny prison cell as a matter of 'procedure'.

Vice Consul Dawn Bacon visited him whilst detained, and Robert says she chased
authorities incessantly for his release. In the meantime, Julie had been waiting at the
hotel, where Robert says she had been 'just sat waiting, crying her eyes out'.

Robert says Thomson and Dawn were the reason they were finally able to make it home
on the Saturday evening - almost three days late. He said: 'Thomson bought us EasyJet
tickets for the Saturday evening, and then had to drive 140km to the police station
because they wouldn't release me without them. 'They were about 650, and they paid
for my wife's taxi to the airport - I can't thank them enough, they were great.'

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