Processes and Final Inspection

of Garment

Name : Faiz Fajar Dini (14030024)

Tenia Aprilita (14030027)
Grup : 3G2

POLITEKNIK STTT
BANDUNG
2016
Processes and Final Inspection of Garment

The garment industry is one of the oldest and largest export industries. In many
countries, included Indonesia, the garment industry is the largest employer in manufacturing.
According to Textiles, clothing, leather and footwear sector (International Labour
Organisation) about 60 million to 75 million people are employed in the textile, clothing and
footwear sector worldwide (2014). To compare: in 2000 only 20 million people were employed
in the garment industry, that was a significant increase.
Garment industry can be defined as an industry that manufactured apparel and clothing
accessories. The meant of the apparel is all kinds of garments from textile materials for men,
women, kids and babies. The raw material is woven or knitted fabric and products which
include are shirts, blouses, skirts, sweatshirts (t-shirts, polo shirts, sport swear), underwear
footwear and etc.
In garment industry, there are so many kinds of process to make a garment, such as making
pattern, marker, cutting, spreading, sewing and etc. Which all of that processes was related to
each other. Before we can produce a garment, we should know about garment making. Garment
making is thus a technical accomplishment that requires knowledge of fabrics, principles of
clothing construction and skills involved in it. This depends on the ability to select the correct
fabric, colour, design and accessories to suit an individual occasion. There are some processes
in garment industry for making garment, they are:
Processes in Garment Industry
1. Pattern Making
Pattern is all of pieces from an apparel on paper or carton based on size specification, forms,
special marks, and hemming allowance of stitch type.
Pattern making models commonly used in garment industry:
a. Pattern made in full size
b. Pattern made in spesific scale size.
c. Pattern made only part of real pattern size.
Methods of pattern making:
a. Manual
Manual method is making pattern in manual (by hand) based on pattern from paper or
carton. This methods need more time and high carefullness also depend on operators
skill.
 b. Computerized
Computerized method is making pattern in a digital with adopt manual pattern making
and use softwares like CAD (Computer Aided Design), CAM (Computer Assisted
Manufacturing), and CIM (Computer Integrated Manufacturing).
2. Marker Making
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments. It is made just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the
wastages. The width of the marker is equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be
greater than the width of the fabric, or fabric width is greater than or equal to marker width.
The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it would minimize
wastages. Next, in this era marker can be done with two methods generally.There are
manually method and computerized method. First, manually method. In manually methods,
the man performs it by himself using hands. It is a conventional system that requires more
times.
There are two type size of marker with manually method:
a. Full Size Marker

The full size marker is made for production purpose.

 b. Miniature Type Marker

The miniature type marker is sometime made and its purpose are to plan or schedule and
learn or study i.e. for planning and learning purpose.
Second, computerized method, this is the best method as it gives higher marker efficiency.
In this method, the pattern size, pattern pieces, grade rule, screening are fed to the
computer and set in the memory which produces maker automatically. In this method there
are two type of system, there are digitizing system and scanning system and consist two
technique, there are automatic marker making and interactive marker making.
Furthermore, for the first in computerized method we will explain the meaning of those
type of system.
1. Digitizing system
In this system, the working patterns are placed on to the digitizing board/table, then
clicking according to the pattern dimensions.
2. Scanning system
Scanner is one kind of machine like photo copier. The working patterns are placed on
to the glass of the scanner and then marker is made for a selected size.
3. Spreading
Spreading is process arranging pieces of fabric on cutting table with specific width and
length for cutting process.
There are 3 types of fabric course in spreading:
a. Facing One Way (Nap-one-way)
 b. Face to Face (Nap-one-way)

c. Face to Face (Nap-up-and-down)

Fabric course above depend on type, weave or knit, design, and surface contour of
fabric. Unsuitable between arranging with fabric condition can happen colour gradation
(shading), design and surface contour of fabric rolled back.
4. Cutting
Cutting is process of cutting pieces of fabric to be specific cutting panel as components of
apparel same with pattern.
Systems of cutting used in cutting process:
a. Hand Scissor

Maximum fabrics in once cutting are four layers and cutting accuration depend on
experience and skill of operator.
b. Vertical Knife

The height of knife about 4-12 inch with knife movement when cutting 1-2 inch. If
movement of knife increase, speed of cutting process also increase so operator can easily
push the cutter.
 c. Rounded Knife

The form of cutter is round with diameter about 3 10 inch. Commonly, rounded knife
only used to cut straight patterns and not incorrect to cut angular or warped patterns.
Layers of fabric limited on layers 1 2 inch.
d. Band Knife

Work system of this knife almost same with motorcycle pully. In this system, layers of
fabcric moved based pattern line or marker when cutting process. The size of band knife
smaller than vertical knife.
5. Sewing
Sewing is the process connecting the fabric with another fabric use thread and needle. The
techniques of sewing are sewing by hand and sewing by machine.
a. Manual/mechanical sewing machine

The machine powered by foot and hand.

For the first, mechanical sewing machine used to sewing straight stitch.
But, in this machine also can sewing lock stitch use two series yarn so it can sewing
decorative and zigzag stitches.
The machines were powered with a hand crank, a system of gears, and foot pedal.
The speed of machine is low because powered by user.
 b. Electric Sewing Machine

The machine powered by electric.

Electric sewing machine allowed speed control without sacrificing power and
improved needle and bobbin control.
These machines have limited stitch selection.
c. Computerized Sewing Machine

Computerized sewing machine also powered by electric but in this machine have
microprocessor
This machine enable to make a pattern, decorative stitch or sewing border.
The machine can stop authomatically if happen colours change suitable with pattern
made in a computer.
The machine operated by touchscreen can connected to computer with connectivity
port USB 2.0
The machine can save some program pattern files use memory card slot.
The machine can setting stitch with default length and width.
6. Spot Cleaning and Laundry
In addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked with performing quality
assurance are also looking for cosmetic flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment that may
have occurred during the cutting and sewing processes. Spots are often marked with a sticker
and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment is cleaned using steam, hot water, or
chemical stain removers.
Some customers request that a garment be fully laundered after it is sewn and assembled;
therefore, garment factories often have an on-site laundry or have subcontract agreements
with off-site laundry operations. Commercial laundry facilities are equipped with at least
 three types of machines: washers, spinners, and dryers. Some facilities also have the
capability to perform special treatments, such as stone- or acid-washing.
7. Ironing
After a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the
facility for final pressing. Each ironing station consists of an iron and an ironing platform.
The irons are similar looking to residential models, but have steam supplied by an on-site
boiler. Workers control the steam with foot pedals and the steam is delivered via overhead
hoses directly to the iron. In most facilities, the ironing platforms are equipped with a
ventilation system that draws steam through the ironing table and exhausts it outside the
factory.
8. Packing
In the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and
packaged according to customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective
plastic bags, either manually or using an automated system, to ensure that the material stays
clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are placed in cardboard boxes and
shipped to client distribution centers to eventually be sold in retail stores.

Quality for textile and apparel may be defined as the level of acceptance of goods or
services. For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality
and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, designs and the final finished
garments. Inspection in garment industry is really important, inspection can be defined as the
visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of the garments
and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or
requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they meet the required
measurements.
Principle of Inspection:

Inspection

Correction of Detection of
defects defects

Feedback of
Determination
these defects
of causes of
to appropriate
defects
personnel

Methods to inspect a garment in final inspection:

a. 100% inspection
Implementation of product inspection by carrying out checks on the entire amount of the
product for inspection one by one carefully. Examination of how this is usually done by
producers / manufacturers during the production process takes place prior to the next
production process.
b. Random / Statistical Checked Inspection
The inspection of the product by taking a number of products at randomly/sampling by
means or certain statistical rules as samples considered representative of the overall
mutuproduk for examination one by one carefully. Examination of these models are
usually made by the buyer (before given permission / approval for shipment (Use AQL).
Table of Acceptances Quality Level (AQL)

Acceptable Quality Level

The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the maximum per cent defective that for the
purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average. In
inspection how much percentage of defective pieces will be accepted, depends on acceptable
quality level The AQL level varies process to process, product to product and even buyer to
buyer.
Sample size Code letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size. (Code 'G' means your
lot size range is from 151 pieces to 280 pieces.
Sample size: It means that how many pieces will be picked up for inspection from the total
offered pieces (Batch).
Ac (Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds up to that much
defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by buyer.
Re (Rejected): On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds that
much defective pieces or more than the listed number, the shipment will be rejected (or asked
to the manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final inspection) by buyer.
Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 1000 pieces for inspection. Select the
range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from table you have to select number of sample you are
going to actually inspect. According the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000
pieces. Now assume that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if
you find 5 or less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 6 or more
than 6 defective pieces in 80 samples you will reject that shipment.
Lot or Batch Size Code Sample Acceptable Quality level
size Size 2.5 4.0 6.5
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
28 A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
9 15 B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1
15 25 C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
26 50 D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2
51-90 E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3
91-150 F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4
151-280 G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6
251-500 H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8
501-1200 J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11
1201-3200 K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15
3201-10000 L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22
10001- 35000 M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22