The sections of this folder will tell you how to
Exterior Paint
Problems
The Real Culprit: MOISTURE
The failure of paint is blamed far more often on
the paint itself than is justified.
Long experience of homeowners and paint
researchers shows that moisture, in certain
places and in trying to pass through a certain
path, is the real destroyer of the vast majority
of painted surfaces.
The primary ally of moisture is a poor job of
surface preparation, and repainting without
correcting the moisture problem.
Theres plenty of moisture in your home in the
summertime just as in winter, but winter poses
special threats to painted exteriors. This is
because your home is closed up most of the
time and the natural channels of air flowing in
and out are blocked off. When the moisture in
the air decreases (as it usually does in winter
in most of the country), any excess moisture in
your home tends to seek an area of less
concentrated moisture outdoors. The
water vapor from your morning shower, from
washing clothes, or even from just breathing
seeks a natural path. This usually turns out to
be through your walls and ceilings, sheathing,
siding, door and window casings, and upward
into your attic and through the roof.
The same effect is achieved by temperature
difference. This can happen any time of year
during cold periods. You normally seal up your
house, heat it to about 70 degrees and
establish a humidity of 20 to 30% by activities
such as washing, breathing and cooking. The
moisture in this air, little as it may be, will
condense on a colder surface (28 to 36F.). If
the temperature outside of the house is below
20 or 25F. the moisture will condense on the
inside of the siding or sheathing.
This moisture lingers on the inside of the wall
structure for a while. But when the sun
appears, it draws the moisture out. The
dampness has to pass through a paint coating
and it will, any way it can. When it does, the
eventual result is paint damage and a very real
need to repaint. Repainting, however, without
tracing out any one or more of the probable
sources of paint failures (see Probable
Causes of Paint Failure following), is not the
answer. Your paint problem will occur again.
repair damaged painted areas. But try to
eliminate the likely problem sources before
starting to repaint. It will repay you in less
future maintenance and more time to enjoy
your home.
PROBABLE CAUSES OF PAINT
FAILURE
Humidifiers
Bathrooms, laundry areas, and kitchens
with no external venting contribute to
excess moisture;
frequent washing and frequent boiling of
foods
(e.g. a baby in the house) puts a lot of
moisture into the air
Seepage or leakage from roof, eaves, or
plumbing
Ice dams in gutters causing back up under
shingles and into overhang and soffit
Natural deterioration of protected areas
where action of weather does not wash
salt deposits off the paint
Water running behind siding through
poorly
caulked seams, especially gaps around
windows and doors
Blocked up storm sewers causing water to
stand in downspouts, then leaking against
and under the wood
Inadequate or no priming of wood or metal
house parts
Lake of careful surface preparation when
existing paint was applied
Mildew or other forms of external pollution
POSITIVE STEPS YOU CAN TAKE
Install circular vent tubes through siding,
or use one of the wedge-type devices for
use under lap siding
Install roof- or wall-mounted ventilator
ducts and fans, in kitchen and bath
When painting interior walls, use a vapor
barrier paint as an undercoat. top coat
with the desired wall paint. Oil-base gloss
or semi-gloss enamels are also ideal as
vapor barrier paints
Check for roof leaks, defective flashing
and holes in gutters and downspouts by
running a hose on your roof and listening
for water movement in downspouting; after
a heavy rain, check for water standing in
gutters, spouts, or flashing
 Locate openings in caulking, especially in
vertical joints
Check free-flowing quality of storm
sewers; water may be backing up in your
downspouts and finding leaks you cant
see from the ground
Plan to repaint only after youve corrected
any of the above
MILDEW
SITUATION: Dark spots, easily mistaken for
dirt, appear on clapboards, stained exterior
wood, trim pieces, and most often on
overhangs and other areas shielded from
direct sunlight. This condition is especially
prevalent on homes in the south where
a large part of the year is humid and warm.
Not limited to growth on wood, mildew can
occur in any place that is partially or fully
protected from sun, such as on home exteriors
where trees and tall shrubs have grown close
to the walls.
REPAIR: Immediately before repainting, scrub
the discolored area carefully with a homemade
solution of one tablespoon of dry powdered
laundry detergent and one quart of
hypochlorite-type household bleach to three
quarts of warm water. After scrubbing, rinse
thoroughly with water. Wear protective
goggles and rubber gloves to avoid eye and
skin irritation. Do this immediately before
repainting. Use a quality Devoe, Fuller
OBrien, or Glidden primer and exterior finish
of your choice according to label directions,
after correcting any other paint damage that
may have occurred. If the mildew is
widespread, prepare the entire home for a two-
part latex paint job. Latex paint systems (a
primer designed for latex, plus a latex finish
coat) are more effective than oil paints in
preventing regrowth of mildew spores. With oil
paint, which dries slower than latex, more
favorable conditions for mildew growth are
offered since it allows longer
wet film time for the mildew to become
established, and oil paint gives more food
value. Oil paint, if used, should be applied in
one full primer coat followed by one or more
finish coats. Painting over mildew is a
mistake since the organism will continue
to grow on and into the first paint surface
even if the new paint is resistant to mildew.
When the old paint is destroyed, both it and
the new paint will fall off the wall.
NAILHEAD STAINING
SITUATION: Non-coated steel nails in exterior
home construction are vulnerable to rusting
and staining the outer finish as the moisture
source from inside collects and moves outward
under the action of the sun. The same thing
often happens in older homes when the
excess dampness breaks down the galvanized
coating on siding nails.
REPAIR: Locate and correct the moisture
problem as suggested under The Real Culprit:
MOISTURE in this folder. If any nail
movement has caused nailheads to show at or
above the surface, replace those nails which
can be removed (without damaging the board
or pulling the head off the nail) with new zinc
or aluminum ones. Likewise, if you replace
any siding, use good rust-protected nails.
Sand or wire brush the rust stain off the old
paint
and scour rust off any remaining exposed
nailheads, going down to bright metal.
Counter-sink nailheads to 1/8" below the
surface and spot prime all nail holes. Allow
primer to dry and fill holes with good quality
caulk. Smooth the surface with putty knife
and topcoat with desired finish coat, after
repairing any other surface problems.

WOOD PIGMENT STAINS
SITUATION: Common building lumber such as
cedar and redwood siding or planks contain
natural pigmentation that can be dissolved by
moisture. When moisture passes through
these woods it dissolves the pigment and
carries it to the surface. The result is breaking
of the paint film and a stain running out on the
paint finish, where it dries brown.
REPAIR: Determine any abnormal moisture
source beneath the siding or in the house.
Locate and correct it before undertaking any
surface repairs. Remove the stain by washing
with diluted chlorine laundry bleach. Wear
protective goggles and rubber gloves to avoid
eye and skin irritation. Repair any breaks in
the old paint carefully and sand smooth as
dictated in the sections on Blistering, Flaking,
Peeling and Checking. Siding vents or
louvers installed in the wall will allow the siding
or sheathing to continue drying from behind, if
internal dampness still exists.
PAINT PEELING AND
DISINTEGRATION UNDER
WEATHER-PROTECTED AREAS
SITUATION: Painted areas on the underside
of roof overhangs, soffits, and porch ceilings
have peeled and generally broken down. The
cause is mainly the natural accumulation of
salt substances on the previous house paint
finish that was not washed off by action of the
weather or before repainting. Mildew also
grows readily under these circumstances,
especially since direct sunlight is never on
the area. Dew that may condense on the top of
the new paint soaks through to the salt. The
salt dissolves, loosening the new paint.
REPAIR: Wash as described under Mildew,
and remove all loose and disintegrated paint. If
necessary, sand thoroughly and wash the
sanded area with a strong detergent solution.
Removing the entire finish down to bare wood
may be advisable, depending on severity.
Locate and correct any moisture problem
sources before repainting. For moisture
problems, install siding vents or louvers as
practical in the overhangs. If the porch ceiling
is covered by a shed-type roof, louvers in the
siding in gable area are effective. Before any
future painting, wash these areas with water
and allow to dry before painting. Apply the
oil, alkyd or latex primer recommended for use
with the finish coat you have selected. Follow
all label directions and allow adequate drying
times. PREVENTIVE TIP: Once the paint is
restored to good condition and cured, wash
overhangs and other weather-protected areas
with mild detergent and water once a year or
when they become dirty.
BLISTERING (Top), FLAKING
(Middle), PEELING (Bottom)
SITUATION: Paint film has blistered, broken,
flaked or peeled away from wood, especially
around window casings, where moisture has
been entrapped beneath paint. This can be a
localized or general condition in frame houses.
It can be severe in brick or masonry homes
that have small wood-sided areas. It occurs
most frequently on the south and west
sides as a result of early spring sunshine
melting the ice that may have accumulated on
the sheathing from moisture diffusing through
the wall, from inside, during the winter.
REPAIR: First, determine the most probable
causes of problem moisture that come from
within. Refer to the text in this folder, The
Real Culprit: MOISTURE, Install siding vents
and proceed with surface preparation.
Repair by scraping off the paint already
loosened. Then sand the bare wood and
sound areas, blending them together. make
certain to sand the surface down to bare wood
for several inches around where the blister or
peeling occurred. Dust and clean the area
carefully. Prime the surface and caulk any
open seams or joints and replace any brittle
caulking. Then top coat according to paint
label directions, allowing adequate primer
drying time.
PREVENTIVE TIP: Each spring before
removing storm windows, wash and rinse
down the painted exterior with garden hose.
Check gutters for clogs and leaks, and repair
loose or missing caulking.
CHECKING
SITUATION: Networks of small hairline cracks,
either parallel to one another or in the shape of
bird footprints, are discovered on the painted
surface. Cracks may also form the shape of
small squares. They often extend down to bare
wood and in any case, usually flake off as the
paint ages and weathers. This condition is
common on plywood veneers and is usually
caused by expansion and contraction as the
paint and wood get older.
REPAIR: Use a broad-bladed putty knife and
determine if the paint is generally loosened
enough to be removed entirely. If this is
practical, use scraper, sandpaper, paint
remover or power sanding equipment.
Make sure the area is finally sanded smooth.
If only partially removed to bare wood, blend
the bare and sound areas together with fine
sandpaper and fill deep cracks and joints, as
necessary, with good-grade caulking
compound. Spot prime or apply a full coat of a
quality Devoe, Fuller OBrien or Glidden primer
to the area once it is thoroughly clean and
dust-free. Allow primer to dry according to
label directions and proceed with the finish
coat.
PREVENTIVE TIP: On newly-installed
plywood, sand the wood smooth and clean it of
all contaminating substances, such as grease
pencil marks, dirt, dust, mud, etc. Make sure
the wood is internally dry when installed and
before painting. Use the recommended primer
for the finish chosen. Two full coats of primer
are recommended for plywood. Even with this
the surface may check on aging. Plywood is
prone to this. NOTE: Large areas of new
hardboard, pressed wood and similar
substrates should be primed with a Devoe,
Fuller OBrien or Glidden alkyd primer. Do not
use a latex primer on these surfaces.
MASONRY FLAKING AND
CHALKING
SITUATION: Paint on concrete, concrete and
cinder block, stucco, brick and mortar may
flake off and leave a chalky or powdery
residue on the surface. In relatively new
masonry, this is probably caused by
inadequate surface preparation or using a
paint that is not specially formulated for use on
masonry (not alkali resistant). In older
masonry, the problem is usually inadequate
surface preparation, since alkali problems
dont last much longer than a year after
the masonry is set and exposed to weather.
REPAIR: First, determine whether the flaking
and chalking is caused by an abnormal
moisture source inside of your house. Locate
and correct any problem areas before
proceeding with surface preparation. (See
The Real Culprit: MOISTURE.) If the
previously painted surface is slightly chalky or
excessively dirty, all that is required before
painting is a stiff brushing or hosing down to
remove surface dirt and loose particles. Paint
that is extensively chalking but adhering well
(not flaking or peeling) requires a coat of
masonry surface conditioner before applying
finish coats of paint. Follow directions
carefully. Paint that has deteriorated to the
point where it is extensively loose and peeling
may require complete removal of the old film.
In any case, make sure that ALL LOOSE
PAINT IS COMPLETELY REMOVED. Use a
wire brush or a stiff bristle brush. Rinse with
garden hose and allow to dry. Bare spots
should receive a coat of masonry filler to
upgrade the smoothness of the surface. Follow
label directions carefully.
CRACKING AND
ALLIGATORING
SITUATION: The problem is usually caused by
improper primer and finish coat combination:
too thick a coat over a soft or incompletely
dried primer. It is also caused by multiple coats
that are too thick, resulting in the underlying
coats not drying fully. Cracks may extend
down to the wood itself
REPAIR: Moisture may not have been
involved in this problem. If any moisture
symptoms are also visible as shown in this
folder, correct the cause before repairing and
repainting. Removal of the entire checked or
alligatored surface may be necessary. Sand
down the surface so that it is smooth and will
take a uniform coat and blend satisfactorily
with the surrounding sound areas. Make sure
all paint that is not adhering properly is
removed and the area sanded, cleaned and
dusted. Spot prime the bare wood areas or
apply a general primer coat suited for use with
the chosen finish. Top coat only after allowing
full drying time mentioned on the paint label.
CHIPPED OR PEELED FINISH
ON DOWNSPOUTS OR GUTTERS
SITUATION: Metalwork on house shows paint
peeling or chipped off, in most cases showing
bare metal underneath. This indicates
improper or no primer used over galvanized
metal when last painting was done, and no
adhesion. Leaks in gutters may be destroying
the paint bond at the point where the water
exits.
REPAIR: Remove all paint that is not adhering
properly the entire finish, if necessary.
Scrape, chip, or sand down to bare metal
except where adhesion is good. Wire brushing
or using wire brush wheel on rotary sander or
drill speeds this job greatly. Feather sand the
sound portions into the bare metal areas to
minimize uneven appearance when paint is
applied. (Before painting, wipe all metal areas
with a solvent soaked cloth.) Use a good
quality galvanized primer over bare metal
areas. If necessary, recoat or use a first coat
of asphalt paint inside gutters to stop leaking.
If a general priming is used over extensive
bare metal areas, use two finish coats
especially if latex paint is used for the final
coat.
HELPFUL TIPS
Basic tools youll want handy: broad and
narrow bladed putty knives, hammer, wire
brush, hand or mechanical sanding tools
(various grits), dusting brush, 11-ounce
caulking gun with caulk, nailset, screwdriver,
paint scrapers. Following materials are good to
have on hand for possible repairs you discover
the need for at the last minute: asphalt paint
for gutter insides, spikes and ferrules to tighten
gutter fit against board, galvanized or
aluminum siding nails, roofing cement to
secure shingle edges.
Please be safe, read the product
label and Material Safety Data Sheet
prior to the application of any paint.