Home Sign Up!

Browse Community Submit

All Art Craft Food Games Green Home Kids Life Music Offbeat Outdoors Pets Photo Ride Science Tech

How to make a Cargo Kilt

by uglymike on June 14, 2009

Table of Contents

How to make a Cargo Kilt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: How to make a Cargo Kilt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Step 1: Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 2: Step 2: Calculating the amount of material and getting supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 3: Step 3: Making the pleated portion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 4: Step 4: Making the waist band . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 5: Step 5: Attaching the fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 6: Step 6: Making the belt loops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 7: Step 7: Making the pockets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 8: Step 8: Attaching the pockets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 9: Step 9: Enjoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 10: Making wider pleates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Intro: How to make a Cargo Kilt

Step 1: Step 1: Measurements

First you will need to make a couple measurements to calculate the amount of fabric you need. Make sure you write these down as you will also need them when we start
pleating the kilt. Make sure you are using a fabric tailors tape, not a metal carpenters tape.
The only 2 measurements you will need are waist and knee length.

First is your waist measurement (measurement A in the picture). Don't use your pants size, kilts are worn much higher on the waist so measure around at your
bellybutton, with the tape measure as parallel to the floor as possible. (This number will be divided by three and used extensively throughout this instrustable so if you
want to round your numbers up to make the math easy go ahead. The difference can be covered by the front and under aprons.)
(Note: If your hip measurement is larger than your waist measurement then use your hip measurement. The belt will bring in the waist, or if you know how, go ahead and
taper in the waist while pleating.)

Next is to measure your knee length (Measurement B in the picture). Kilts should go down to your kneecaps, ending right about the middle of your kneecaps. The best
way to measure this is to kneel on the floor and measure from your waist line, at your bellybutton, down to the floor.

Record these measurements

Waist:
1/3rd Waist:
Length:

For example: my measurements are

Waist: 45 Inches
1/3rd Waist: 15 inches
Length: 24 inches

Now a few definitions:

Front Apron: The non pleated front of the kilt that shows when you wear the kilt.
Pleated Length: The heavily pleated length that comprises the back of the kilt.
Under Apron: The non pleated portion that wraps underneath the front apron when you wear the kilt.
Waist Band: The very top, unpleated portion that runs the length of the kilt.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 2: Step 2: Calculating the amount of material and getting supplies
A non-traditional American style kilt, like we are making here, has a front apron (the non pleated front part) of about 1/3rd the total waist line. (Aprons on traditional
Scottish kilts are about 1/2 the length of the waist.)

To calculate the amount of fabric for the pleated part of the kilt take your waist measurement and divide by 3, then multiply by 8 and add an inch. This will be the length of
the kilt fabric, the amount going around the waist. The width of the pleated part will be the knee Length minus 2 inches.

Pleated Portion length (this length will include what is needed for the front and under apron , do not add the front and under lengths to this ): Waist
measurement divided by 3 times 8, plus 1 inch seam allowance
Pleated Portion width: Knee Length minus 2 inches
Waist Band length: Waist measurement divided by 3 times 4 plus 1 inch seam allowance (wait until you finish the pleated portion to cut this piece, I will explain why in
step 4)
Waist band width: 7 inches

The length of the fabric will need to buy is equal the the length of the pleated part of the kilt plus an inch for seam allowance (go ahead and get it a little longer for good
measure). Make sure the width of the fabric is at least 9 inches wider than your measured length. This will leave you enough fabric left over for the waist band and
pockets.

For example my waist measurement is 45 inches. The length of fabric I need will be at least 121 inches (45/3*8+1=121) or 3.3 yards. I rounded up and got 4 yards. The
width of the fabric I got was 60 inches, I should have enough fabric to make 2 kilts.

You will need to have:

Sewing Machine (Not Pictured)
Iron (Not Pictured)
Scissors
Tailors Tape Measure
Pins
Fabric pencil or Chalk

You will need to buy

Fabric
Matching Thread
Interfacing (Enough to line the waist band)
22 Snap fasteners (plus the hardware to mount them)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 3: Step 3: Making the pleated portion
I'll be using 2 inch pleats in this instructable. This is deep enough for the pleats to hold well, and still looks good.

You will need to cut the pleated portion of the kilt from your fabric using the calculated numbers from step 2.

Once this is cut, fold over both ends 1/2 inch and sew a hem. Then fold the bottom over 1/2 inch and sew a hem here also. I want to note here that some fabric has a
"good" or "Front" side and a "bad", "wrong" or "Back" side. When you hem the ends and bottom, fold over onto the bad side.

Once the edges are sewn, measure in 1/3 your waist measurement on each end and mark with your chalk. This will be the Front Apron and Under Apron.

Once you've marked your fabric you can begin pleating. I'm sure you have a very long legnth of fabric so do this on a very long table. place a large towel under the fabric
because you will need to iron the pleats every so often.

With the hemmed bottom length of the fabric towards you and the unhemmed edge facing away you will start your first pleat on the right end of the fabric with the pleat
going to the right. Measure 4 inches from your apron mark to the left and pull the fabric to the edge of the front apron. Make sure this fold is as straight as possible.

Next measure 6 inches from the fold and pull to within 2 inches of the fold. The fold on top should line up with back of the previous fold underneath.

Make sure as your pleating you measure the top and bottom of each fold to maintain 2 inch pleats. You will want to press the pleats with an iron after every 2 or 3 folds.

Once pressed, pin each pleat at the top, bottom and middle. Continue pleating until you reach the under apron mark on the other end of the fabric.

Once the entire length of fabric is pleated and pinned, bring it over to the sewing machine. Sew down each pleat at the edge of the fold from the top of the fabric down 5
inches. Sewing down the tops of the pleats will allow them to hold their shape much better.
(Note: You should take out the top pins as you sew down the tops of the pleats, but leave in the other pins while you are working on the kilt. It will make the kilt easier to
work with. I'll usually remove them once I'm ready to attach the pockets)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 4: Step 4: Making the waist band
To make the waist band you will need a length of fabric 1 in longer than the top of the pleated portion and 7 inches wide. Remeasure the top portion rather than using the
calculation as the length may not be exact after hemming and pleating.

Hem all 4 sides of the fabric over 1/2 inch.

Cut a piece on interfacing equal to the inside portion of the waistband and attach per the interfacing's instructions.

Sew 1 edge of the waistband to the back of the pleated portion, 1/2 inch from the top, lining up the ends.

Fold over, covering the front 1/2 inch from the top of the pleated portion, press and sew the edge and along the sides.

Step 5: Step 5: Attaching the fasteners

Now you can do what you all have been waiting for, try on the kilt.

Hold the kilt around your waist where you would naturally be wearing it. Wrap the left side over the right side until it is snug. Mark with a washable fabric pen where the
waistband stops on the right (you may want someone to help with this).

Now place the kilt on a table face down with the waist band towards you. Fold the under apron (on your right) to the center of the kilt. Then fold the apron over the under
apron matching up to the mark you had just made while wearing it.

Now you can mark where the snap fasteners will go. The will be about 1 inch from either end. This is a wide waistband so use 2 snaps at each end, on the top and
bottom of the waistband. You will have 2 at the edge of the apron and 2 more through the apron to the edge of the under apron. Punching the hole through both layers at
the same time is best to ensure they match up. Attach per the instructions that came with the snaps.

Now we'll attach some snaps to the face of the apron. This is for both decoration and to hold the apron down while wearing the kilt. There are several possibilities you can
do in regards to the pattern. I usually run 2 rows of 3 tapering to the center. You can experiment by placing the snap tops in various patterns until you get something you
like. Make sure the apron and under apron are centered before punching you holes through both layers of fabric (pin the apron and under apron together to prevent it
from moving). Again, punch the holes through both layers at the same time to ensure they match up.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 6: Step 6: Making the belt loops
You will need a 1 inch wide strip about 30 or so inches long, depending on the number of belt loops you want. I use 7 belt loops as you will see below. The belt loops will
end up about 1/2 inch wide.

You will need to fold the edged to the center of the strip. Pin the folded strip about every 3 inches.

Once it is fully folded and pinned you need to press it with an iron. Go a couple inches and then pull out the pin and continue to the next, removing pins as you go.

Once the entire strip is pressed take it over to the sewing machine and sew down each flap.

Cut the strip into shorter pieces, 1 inch longer than the width of your waistband. They should be about 4 inches

To attach the belt loops you will fold the ends over about 1/2 inch and sew to the top and bottom of the waist band. You are going through quite a few layers of fabric, so
be sure you are using a strong needle and take it slow, moving your machine by hand if needed.

You can use what ever spacing you like for the belt loops, I use one on each end of the apron, one on each hip, one at the m\iddle of the back and one for each space
between the loop at the back and between each hip fpr 7 total loops.

If you want you can wear the kilt as is now, but it is a cargo kilt so we'll move on to the pockets.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 7: Step 7: Making the pockets
We will be making the pockets separate from the kilt and then attaching them. This is both easy and allows the pleats in the kilt to move. We will have two side "Cargo"
pockets and a back pocket. The measurements are approximate, don't sweat it if you're a little off. Also, feel free to make the pockets bigger or smaller if you wish.

First the back pocket. Cut a piece of fabric 7 inches wide by 15 inches long.

Hem both short edges 1/2 inch.

Fold 1 short edge over 5 inches, making sure the hemmed edge is facing out. Then fold the other edge over about 1 1/2 inches, again facing the hemmed side out. (there
should be about a 1 inch gap between these flaps)

Sew the long edges together about 1/2 inch from the edge.

Once the pocket is sewn together turn it inside out, or rather rightside out since you should have sewn it together inside out.

Press with an iron.

Run another seam alone the long edge about 1/4 inch in from the edge. This will hold the flap in the gap down and keep your pocket flat.

Now fold the short end over the long, with the gap coming down over the front of the pocket and attach the snaps.

Now the cargo pockets.

First cut a piece of fabric 9 inches by 28 inches.

Hem the short edges 1/2 inch.

Fold 1 short edge over 9 1/2 inches, making sure the hemmed edge is facing out. Then fold the other edge over 2 inch, again facing the hemmed side out. (there should
be about a 2 inch gap between these flaps)

Sew the long edges together about 1/2 inch from the edge.

Once the pockets are sewn together turn them inside out, or rather rightside out since you sewed them together inside out.

Press with an iron.

Run another seam alone the long edge about 1/4 inch in from the edge. This will hold the flap in the gap down and keep your pocket flat.

Now fold the short end over the long, the fold of the crease should be right in the center of the 2 inch gap. Then attach the snaps on the flap. (pictured are 3 snaps along
the top. They will be to attach the pocket to the kilt and explained in the next step)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 8: Step 8: Attaching the pockets
To attach the pockets we will sew the back pocket to the kilt and use snaps to attach the cargo pockets, making them removable.

To attach the back pocket first put on the kilt and have someone help place the back pocket in a "natural" position. Have them pin it into place, butting the top of the
pocket to the bottom of the waist band.

Once pinned, open the flap and sew through the back of the flap (in between the flaps) onto the kilt.

To attach the cargo pockets first get someone to help to place them in position and pin them. They should be positioned on your sides at the hip, about 3 or 4 inches
down from the bottom of the waist band.

Once pinned, position 3 snaps across the top. The snaps will go all the way through the pocket, from the front to the back, as seen the the picture. The back part of the
snap will go through the kilt allowing you to snap the pocket to the kilt, and remove the pocket if you want.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 9: Step 9: Enjoy
Now that you have your Cargo Kilt wear it and enjoy. Share your own pics in the comments.

Clean it per the fabric's directions, and use starch when ironing to help keep your pleats crisp.

Feel free to modify as you see fit. You can use buttons instead of snaps, or velcro to fasten the waistband. I think next I'll try attaching the cargo pockets with grommets
and carabiners.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
Step 10: Making wider pleates
Since I originally posted this I received an PM asking about making a kilt with larger pleats. It's a great question and one I think others would like to know. When using
wider pleats you may end up with either too much or to little fabric and there could be a gap between your apron and the start of the pleats. To keep the kilt symmetrical
you'll need to do the following.

Figure out your front apron length, under apron length, pleated length and total cut length as if you were using 2 inch pleats (see step 2 in the instructable).

Front apron and under apron length's are 1/3 your waist measurement.
Pleated length is 6/3 (or twice) your waist measurement
Total cut length is waist measurement / 3 * 8 + 1

To modify it for longer pleats decide your desired pleat length

Take your desired pleat length and multiply it times 3
Divide that by your pleated length. Use only the whole number, drop the remainder. This will be your total number of pleats.
Take your total number of pleats and multiply it times your desired pleat width times 3 and subtract from your calculated pleated length
Divide that number (which is in inches) by 3
Take that final number, add it to your front apron length, under apron length and subtract it from your total cut length.

Obviously you'll need to do these calculations before you cut your fabric.

Example: I have a 45 inch waist and I want 4 inch pleats

Normally (for 2 inch pleats) I'd have a 15 inch front and under apron, my pleated length would be 90 inches and my total cut length would be 121 inches as figured in step
2.
My calculations would be
4 in pleats * 3 = 12
12 / 90 = 7 (dropping the remainder)
7 * 4 * 3 - 90 = 6
6/3=2
New front and under aprons length is 17 inches
Total cut length is now 119 inches

I've tried this out on paper a couple times with different waist measurements and it seems to be correct. I have to recommend rounding your waist measurement up to a
number divisible by 3 though, it makes the calculations much easier and when you test fit the kilt in step 5 you'll take in the difference and not even notice.

To check your math use these 2 formulas

Pleat width times # of pleats plus front apron length = your waist measurement
Pleat width times # of pleats times 3 plus front apron length plus under apron length plus 1 = total cut length

I know this is a little complicated but I hope it helps.

Feel free to message me if you have any more questions and post a pic of your completed kilt in the comments section.

Good Luck

Related Instructables

How to Tie a
how to make a Kilt Hose Pagari (Indian
Kilt with scottish great (Photos) by Turban) by
Duct Tape Kilt/ Sash by kilt by High Rise to Joannie
Low Rise Men's mihikashaunik
Dress by mrmucox danielg123
DuctTapeDude Briefs by
Undieman

Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 81 comments

wedjlok says: Mar 8, 2011. 4:57 PM REPLY

Thanks for the great tutorial! I finished mine with bottom weight fabric easily and added Line 24 snaps for the enclosures. I also just sewed the pockets in
place permanently.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
 uglymike says: Mar 9, 2011. 1:57 AM REPLY
Looks Awesome! Thanks for posting the pic. Sewing the pockets on is really nice. I've done that with a couple of mine. Removable pockets are nice
when you need to wash and iron it, but other than that they can sometimes get in the way.

Mike

Rosilin says: Feb 18, 2011. 9:22 PM REPLY

Thank you! My Husband has wanted one of these for SO long, and now my 2 sons want one each! You have them Very happy!

Sorry the pics are dark, we took these at 3 am before he went back out on the road trucking. It did his partner in, he already doesn't know what to say when
John is knitting a "boobie" headrest, now hes wearing a "Skirt" too!
And Yes its alittle "long" that will be fixed.

uglymike says: Feb 19, 2011. 1:50 AM REPLY

Looks Great! Thanks for the comments and big props for posting the pictures.

Mike

rhaubejoi says: Jun 27, 2010. 6:54 AM REPLY

AWESOME! You guys who are manly/secure enough to wear a kilt are real men! and I see from the pictures you guys are rockin them too! love it!

uglymike says: Jul 22, 2010. 2:21 PM REPLY

I second that!!! I'd like to thank everyone who's posted pictures. Mike

jack penny says: Jul 19, 2010. 9:47 AM REPLY

WEAR SOME UNDERWEAR, NO-ONE WANTS TO SEE YOUR JUNK IF YOU FALL OVER!!!!!

uglymike says: Jul 22, 2010. 2:19 PM REPLY

Maybe it's just no one wants to see your junk if you fall over ; ) Mike

circlecityguy says: Jul 19, 2010. 5:30 PM REPLY

Any advice on how to attach the snaps? I've done nothing but butcher them and the fabric each time if tried to attach.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
 uglymike says: Jul 22, 2010. 2:18 PM REPLY
I'm assuming you got the same kind of cheap post and anvil set up I got when I got my snaps. The 2 main things is be sure you setting them on a hard
surface, like a patio or garage floor, don't try it on a tabletop or counter. Also be sure to hit the post squarely. They do make a pliers type tool for setting
the snaps and it'll work well for most of the snaps on the kilt, but it doesn't work well for the snaps far from the edge of the fabric If your interested in other
options keep in mind the purpose of the snaps is simply to keep the front apron from flying open in the wind. Traditionally kilts used straps and buckles
along the edge of the apron to keep it closed. I've used buttons and buttonholes in place of the snaps for a Tuxedo style kilt, and a big industrial zipper
along the edge of the apron for a punk kilt. I've even seen others use velcro under the apron to keep it closed. I just used snaps for the look on this kilt,
so feel free to use your imagination. Mike.

Chance27 says: Jul 10, 2010. 4:23 AM REPLY

Well, I didn't add pockets, but here is my second attempt at a kilt. The first one came up a little bit short, barely touching the top of my knees. The wiastband
is a bit puffy, but that is bcause of my not following directions, and is covered up by the belt.

abbabibble2 says: Jun 21, 2010. 12:48 AM REPLY

second kilt is done, this time using the x-kilt instructions and a wool mix with box pleats. Noticed that the author of those added a step on tapering the pleats
to account for body shape, and it does actually make the kilt fit better. Now i think it's on to a tartan kilt...

enemix says: Jun 16, 2010. 4:22 PM REPLY

Thanks a lot for this instructable :)
Here's my version, without snaps on the front, cargo pockets sewed to the kilt instead of snapped, and added D-rings to the belt loops.
It was really easy to follow the instructions and now I've got myself a brand new kilt :)

abbabibble2 says: Jun 9, 2010. 10:01 PM REPLY

perfect! was going to buy a Utilikilt but because of the cost it was suggested that i try to find a pattern and see if i like it first. I managed to bungle it so i didn't
have enough fabric at the end for anything beyond the back pocket. Other than that it came out GREAT. Protip: make sure the height and or width of your kilt
is SPOT ON where you want it to be BEFORE you sew your pleats down the back, or even preferably before you make the pleats. mine came out too long
and i had to do some wacky two inch hem on a zigzagged piece of fabric. turned out OK though, was just a hassle.

Wesley666 says: Jun 8, 2010. 3:12 PM REPLY

I saw this and was just like, "F@$!...Yes..." I can't believe I have never heard of this or something like this before! Awesome 'Ible! :D

uglymike says: Jun 9, 2010. 3:28 AM REPLY

This kind of kilt has been around for quite some time, Utilikilt being the most common and popular. But considering even the "cheap" knock-offs are over
$100 I decided to make my own and figured there were quite a few others out there wanting to do the same. You can also Google the X-Kilt for another
kind of kilt based on the same idea but with a different design. Thanks for the compliment. Mike

eeio says: Jun 2, 2010. 8:35 AM REPLY

great instructable. it was very difficult to keep the pleats on the fabric i had at hand so i ended up sewing all the folds. lots of sewing but it looks good. i also
made the side pockets with "rounded corners" - similar to the utilikilts - but i like the look of it.

i'm already thinking about making another one. thank you very much for sharing!

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
 uglymike says: Jun 8, 2010. 1:19 PM REPLY
Looks Great!!! Kudos for modifying it and making it your own. I've started sewing down the backside of the pleats on my own kilts. It makes a big
difference in how well the pleats hold and eases in pressing them after washing. Great Job. Mike

BiggieSOMD says: Jan 10, 2010. 12:28 PM REPLY

Just curious if anybody has an idea on a beer gut cut such as utilikilt offers, I have a gut that I am slowly getting rid of but until then I could use a beer gut
cut. Also great ible and I cant wait to start making my kilt, was tempted to spend the dough on one but rather make it myself.

uglymike says: Jan 10, 2010. 8:49 PM REPLY

I haven't seen the utilikilt with the beer gut cut so I am just speculating here but I imagine it's a combination of letting the pleats out slightly on eithr
side of the front apron (the front apron on the Utilikilt is quite a bit more narrow than the one here) and putting a slight, gentle curve across the front of the
waist band (allowing the waist band to look straighter across the waist as opposed to falling down in front).
One of the big differences between this Kilt and the Utilikilt is that the Utilikilt is fitted to your waist & hip measurements. This usually means that at
when you sew down the pleats in step 4 they are sewn at a slight angle, wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. This allows their kilt to have a
better fit and drape when worn. The beer gut cut, as they define it, is when your waist measurement (at the bellybutton) is larger than your hip
measurement, and it mostly protrudes at the belly.
Because this instructable isn't fitted to the waist / hip measurements, the beer gut cut is not as big a concern as with the Utilikilt, but I do have to
concede this kilt does not look as good as a professionally made Utilikilt (or any of the other great Kilt makers out there).
If you're looking for that great fitted look I'd recommend making friends with someone who's adept at fitting/tailoring clothing and mooching for some
help.

Mike

MattPendley says: Nov 22, 2009. 8:16 PM REPLY

Awesome instructable! I made a black kilt and I have to say that's the most comfortable thing I've ever worn. I'll definitely be making a khaki one sometime
in the near future.

mjursic says: Jun 25, 2009. 5:18 PM REPLY

I have scoured the web for this kind of pattern and here it is, well written and clearly presented, right in my inbox. So thanks, Mike! I'll be making one of these
over the summer!

mjursic says: Jun 25, 2009. 5:22 PM REPLY

By the way, is it easy to describe the math for making a slightly narrower apron? I was thinking of an apron more like 1/4 my waist length, or about 9" or
so. Sorry for the trouble. Mike J

uglymike says: Jun 25, 2009. 7:12 PM REPLY

Each 2 inch pleat requires 4 additional inches of fabric, so the easiest way to narrow the apron it to do it in 2 inch increments. Therefore for each
added pleat, the front apron is reduced by 2 inches and you'd add 4 inches to the total you need in step 2 for the pleated portion. You probably won't
get exactly 1/4 of your waist measurement, but you can get close enough for no one to notice. Hope this helps. Mike

theomne says: Oct 6, 2009. 3:48 PM REPLY

Something I found after making this kilt and making and X-kilt, I recommend making the under-apron large enough to reach all the way around to
the side of your left thigh. Another thing this helps is a large under apron pleat, that would be a extra large pleat (5 to 6 inches deep) to the left of
the Over-apron. this will help with... modesty, especially if you narrow the apron.

Woofinidaho says: Sep 8, 2009. 8:34 PM REPLY

Hi Mike I just made your Kilt as my very FIRST machine sewing project. I own two "Utilikilts". the biggest mistake I made in the construction of this Kilt was
not getting the waistband 100% lined up with the pleats so they are all "at a slight angle" and the waist to hem length is about a half inch too short,I like my
Kilts to come to the middle of my knee's. My next Kilt should be much better. Phew! for a total novice,there's a LOTTA sewing in this thing but thanks for a
great tutorial.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
 capricorn says: Aug 27, 2009. 8:10 AM REPLY
Mike? Just to show you my new kilt. I had some issues with measuring and sent you a PM on that Thanks again :)

uglymike says: Aug 28, 2009. 2:48 AM REPLY

Looks great. Thanks for posting the pic. Mike

qyv says: Jul 27, 2009. 7:00 PM REPLY

To make the waist band you will need a length of fabric 1 in longer than the top of the pleated portion - don't you mean one inch longer than the length of the
top of the kilt? wouldn't you include the apron / under apron and not just the pleated portion?

uglymike says: Jul 27, 2009. 9:46 PM REPLY

When I refer to the pleated portion I mean the entire piece of fabric made in step 3. Yes that does include the front and under apron. I'm sorry for the
confusion, but you are correct in assuming it is the entire length of the top of the kilt (after pleating) Mike

godhole says: Jul 23, 2009. 1:47 PM REPLY

When you are edgestitching the pleats, is that on the inside of the garment or the outside/right side? If the latter, would it help the garment hang and need
less ironing to edge stitch both inner and outer pleat edges? I would love to have a garment which requires less ironing. Also, thanks for an awesome
instructable!

uglymike says: Jul 24, 2009. 1:48 AM REPLY

I just stitched the outside of the pleats. You can edge stitch the insides also, but it probably wont help with the ironing. I do have to admit the ironing of a
kilt is a real pain in the neck. I've started taking mine in to get dry cleaned so they can press the pleats, It more than worth the couple of buck to me to not
have the headache of re-pressing this. Mike

godhole says: Jul 24, 2009. 3:10 PM REPLY

Thanks! Makes a lot of sense. I am usually a big fan of linen and other natural fibers, but might go with easy care for this one! :)

uglymike says: Jul 25, 2009. 10:29 PM REPLY

I was just recently reading through the instructions for the X-Kilt ( http://www.stanford.edu/~ahebert/X_Kilt_adobe.pdf ), another excellent sew-
your-own modern kilt, and it recommended sewing down the inside edge of the pleats (the edge that falls behind the visible from of the kilt) which
helps the pleats keep their form and makes it easier to iron. I haven't tried this yet, but I don;t see any reason why it should work. Given the
difficulty with ironing these garments, especially when using heavy, easily wrinkled material, any help should be welcomed.

Credit to TheMadTinker who's mention of the X-kilt in these comments got me to check it out. Thanks

Mike

Daisy-Winifred says: Jul 22, 2009. 3:24 AM REPLY

Just to say thank you for putting this here. I will certainly be using your clear instructions to make myself cargo kilts. Have been looking for a pattern for some
while having seen a picture of the utilikilts.I realise they are supposedly for men but as a woman who'd like to wear something practical that allows easy
movement and the air to circulate this garment just seems better than culottes:0).

uglymike says: Jul 24, 2009. 1:55 AM REPLY

Your more than welcome. Glad to see the gals getting involved with this as well. Personally I think culottes should be banned, along with skorts. Maybe
I'm just being sexist. Good luck with your project. Mike

jimandmichelle says: Jul 18, 2009. 2:10 AM REPLY

I've never worn a kilt before, but thanks to your instructable and four hours of my labor I now own my very own!

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/
 uglymike says: Jul 18, 2009. 6:38 AM REPLY
Awesome!!!!! Glad to hear your happy with your new kilt. All the hard work does pay off. Mike

crackjr says: Jul 14, 2009. 8:55 AM REPLY

dude thats awesome its just like a utilakilt but cheaper sweet

Nunhumper says: Jul 11, 2009. 3:22 PM REPLY

does you kilt have inside pockets as well as the outside pockets?

uglymike says: Jul 12, 2009. 11:59 AM REPLY

There are no inside pockets on this kilt, but it is certainly possible. On most designs the back pocket is an inside pocket, much like those found on dress
slacks. I've seen other designs that hide the side pockets under the pleats. Feel free to experiment and make it your own.

Nunhumper says: Jul 12, 2009. 1:34 PM REPLY

sweet. thanks for the great instructable.

shiner2990 says: Jun 16, 2009. 9:42 AM REPLY

Awesome!!! I have wanted one of these for a long time and for some reason never thought about making one. They are little on the costly side to purchase.
Two questions: What kind of fabric did you use? Is that chainmaille around your wrist?

uglymike says: Jun 16, 2009. 11:32 AM REPLY

The fabric I used is called "Duck Cloth". It's really just a tan , cotton denim. You see it a lot in work pants. And, yes, that is a chainmaille bracelet. If you
interested its a dragon-scale weave that's 1 continuous loop, no closures.

jtmcdole says: Jun 25, 2009. 9:16 PM REPLY

do you have an instructable for the bracelet? Awesome instructable!

uglymike says: Jul 1, 2009. 12:37 PM REPLY

I used the following instructions for my bracelet (with cool CGI pic's). To weave it on you hand take some time and dexterity. It helps to have
someone help you do it.

http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=7902

I'd do an instructable, but it's hard to beat these instructions.

Mike

shiner2990 says: Jun 30, 2009. 10:51 AM REPLY

I found you one. It's not an ible but it's pretty clear. http://home.online.no/~fjetla/dragonscale.html

seamster says: Jun 16, 2009. 4:08 PM REPLY

This is cool. (I need to find me some manly duck cloth.)

scoochmaroo says: Jun 17, 2009. 9:51 AM REPLY

We found lots in camo. You could be like a ninja craftster in the forest!

sboger says: Jun 26, 2009. 2:08 PM REPLY

Excellent source of camo duck cloth... Heavy fabric, with waterproofing, even...
http://www.vtarmynavy.com/od-canvas-duck-material-wtreatment.htm

view all 81 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Cargo-Kilt/