Frida Flower Blanket Full Us Pattern

1
Welcome to the start of the Stylecraft Fridas Flowers Blanket Crochet Along designed by Jane Crowfoot
using one of our most popular Summer yarns Classique Cotton DK. Alternative shades in Special DK
and Life DK are also available and details of these can be found on our shade list which is available from
our website: http://www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk/Crochet.htm
Over the next 15 weeks we will be bringing you a new block every fortnight. The dates for your diary
are: 5 April, 19 April, 3 May, 17 May, 31 May, 14 June, 28 June and 12 July.
The patterns will focus on one motif every fortnight and you will need to complete an average
of 4 motifs per set.
We will set out at the beginning of each block which colours and equipment you will need. We will
always repeat abbreviations at the beginning of each pattern.
For general hints and tips please see our Crochet Along Introduction pdf which can be found here:
http://www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk/Crochet.htm
Block 1 White Cosmos

Frida Kahlo loved her home and garden. The Blue House where she was born and that she later
shared with Diego Rivera is now preserved as Fridas beloved gardens where she spent a lot of time and
surrounded herself with native Mexican plants and flowers.
The first motif is pretty straightforward with a small cosmos flower sitting at the centre of a pretty plain
double crochet motif. We have cosmos in our garden in the summer, but they are a native flower of
Mexico and are bound to have grown in Fridas garden at the Blue House.
Use this motif as the template for all your others and try your best to make sure the width measurement
is as close to 20cm (8in) as possible. You will need to make sure you check your stitch count at the end
of each round and keep an eye on the consistency of your double crochet stitches. If you find your piece
is coming up too big or too small take a minute to read the notes about how you work a double stitch
as well as the notes on tension.
The next Block is available 19 April.
EQUIPMENT NOTES:
Size E/4 and G/6 (3.5mm & 4mm) hook Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn
Sewing needle You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete
rounds and fasten off the yarn, rather than joining mid stitch.
MEASUREMENT When fastening off a yarn at the end of a round, the slip stitch
Pre blocked 7in (19.5cm) wide at widest point that you have made to join can look like a stitch when you are
working the following round. Make sure you count correctly
ABBREVIATIONS and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
ch(s) chain(s) ss slip stitch subsequent rounds.
cm centimeter(s) st(s) stitch(es)
dc double crochet tch turning chain Dealing with yarn ends
in inch(es) WS wrong side I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
RS right side the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
sc single crochet Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are
sp(s) space(s) less likely to loose stitches or make errors with your tension.
WARNING-COPYRIGHT This publication is protected by the law of copyright. It is at your disposal free of charge. Please do not make any changes to the pattern. The reselling
of Stylecraft free patterns in any form is prohibited. For information regarding sharing of Stylecraft free patterns please see http://www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk/copyright.htm
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Block 1 White Cosmos (make 4)
Yarns used:
3097 3665 3567

Leaf Ivory Plum
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
Although every effort has been made to ensure that instructions are correct, Stylecraft cannot accept any liabilities.
In the unlikely event that there are errors in the patterns we will work as quickly as possible to issue an addenda.
Stylecraft cannot accept responsibility for the result of using any other yarn.
3
METHOD 3
Using Leaf & size G/6 (4mm) hook, ch5, join with a ss to form
a ring
Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into

ring, ss to join, (12sts)
Round 4: ss into next ch sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 4dc into ch sp

at base of ch-3, ch1, * 5dc into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from * to
end, ss to 3rd ch of ch-3 made at beginning of round to join,
(30sts & 6 ch sps)
Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * ch2,
skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting last
sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6sts & 6ch sps)
Round 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc

into next st (the 1st true dc made on the previous round), 1dc
into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, * 2dc into
next st, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch;
repeat from * to end, ss to join (42sts & 6ch sps)
Round 2: Using Ivory join yarn into any ch sp by working ch1 1 2
(does not count as a st), [1sc, 3dc, 1sc] into same ch sp, * [1sc,
3dc, 1sc] into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten
off (6 petals made)

Round 3: (RS facing) Using Plum & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook & repeat from * to end, ss to join (54sts & 6ch sps)
working from behind the flower you have just made, join yarn
into any skipped sc made on Foundation Round by working
ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, ch3, *
1sc into next skipped st, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss to join,
(6sts & 6ch sps)
1 2
4
Round 7: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc Round 10: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch1 (does not count
into next st (the 1st true dc made on the previous round), 1dc as a st), 1sc into each next 15sts, [3sc into next st, 1sc into each
into each next 6sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, * 2dc into next 17sts] 5 times, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 2sts, ss to
next st, 1dc into each next 7sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch; join, fasten off (120sts)
Sew in yarn ends

Round 8: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc Place stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3sc) if required
into each next 8sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, * 2dc into next Pre Blocked Measurement: 7in (19.5cm) at widest point
st, 1dc into each next 9sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch; repeat
from * to end, ss to join (78sts & 6ch sps)
Half White Cosmos

Round 9: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc Using Leaf & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form
into next st (the 1st true dc made on the previous round), 1dc a ring
into each next 10sts, 2dc into next st, * 3dc into next ch sp,
2dc into next st (this is the ch that leads into the next dc & sits Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into ring,
above itit might be difficult to see as part of it may be covered ss to join, (12sts)
by the 3dc you have just made into the ch sp), 1dc into each
next 11sts, 2dc into next st; repeat from * to last ch sp, 3dc into Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * ch2,
ch sp, ss to join (108sts) skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting last
1 2 sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6sts & 6ch sps)
Round 2: Using Ivory join yarn into any ch sp by working ch1

off (6 petals made)
Round 3: (RS facing) Using Plum & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook &
working from behind the flower you have just made, join yarn into
any skipped sc made on Foundation Round by working ch1 (does
not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, ch3, * 1sc into next
skipped st, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss to join, (6sts & 6ch sps)
These 3 rows are the same as for the main piece please refer
to the pictures on page 3.
From this point you are going to work in rows rather than in
rounds, this means you need to turn at the end of each row.
Check that you have the correct side facing you at all times.
(WS) means wrong side facing
(RS) means right side facing
5
Row 1: (RS facing) ss into next ch sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 5dc Row 5: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of
into same ch sp, ch1, 5dc into next ch sp, ch1, 6dc into next ch ch-3, 1dc into each next 10sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc
sp, turn (17sts & 2 ch sps) into next st, 1dc into each next 9sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip
1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 10sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of
tch made at beginning of last row, turn (41sts & 2ch sps)
Row 2: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of

ch-3, 1dc into each next 4sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc
into next st, (because you are WS facing this st looks like it is Row 6: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of
beyond the post of the last dc of group made on the previous ch-3, 1dc into each next 12sts, 2dc into next st, 3dc into next ch
row), 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc sp, 2dc into next st (as beforethis st is beyond the post of the
into next st, 1dc into each next 4sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch made dc), 1dc into each next 11sts, 2dc into next st, 3dc into next ch
at beginning of last row, turn (23sts & 2ch sps) sp, 2dc into next st as before, 1dc into each next 12 sts, 2dc into
3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (53sts)
Row 3: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-
3, 1dc into each next 6sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into Row 7: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch1 (does not count as a
next st, 1dc into each next 5sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, st), 3sc into st at base of ch-1, 1sc into each next 16sts, 3sc into
2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 6sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch next st, 1sc into each next 17sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each
made at beginning of last row, turn (29sts & 2ch sps) next 16sts, 3sc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row,
fasten off (61sts)
Sew in yarn ends

Place stitch marker into corner sts if required
Pre Blocked Measurement: 7in (19.5cm) at widest point
Row 4: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of

ch-3, 1dc into each next 8sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc
into next st, 1dc into each next 7sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip
1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 8sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of
tch made at beginning of last row, turn (35sts & 2ch sps)
Joining your pieces

You will join them together using single crochet and a size G/6
(4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch instead,
but will need to use a larger hook (size 7 / 4.5mm).
When joining, corner sts on the motifs need to be used more
than once.
You can use Plum to join Block One, if you are running out of
Black.
US Terms
Dahlia Bud
Fridas Flowers Blanket Block 2
1
Block 2 Dahlia Bud

Dahlias are a native flower to Mexico and they often featured in Fridas work and in traditional Mexican
embroidery designs. The Dahlia flowers birthplace was the mountainous region of Mexico and
Guatemala and the Dahlia Pinnata is the national flower of Mexico so you can see why they feature in
the work of Frida and her husband Diego Rivera.
Dahlias are mostly large pom pom like flowers and so I felt the popcorn stitches would help capture
the idea of a robust layered flower in this motif. Like Block One, this is quite a straightforward motif, but
if you are using Special DK or Life DK instead of the cotton Classique yarn you may find you have to
block the piece to achieve a true hexagon shape.
The popcorn stitch will be used again later on at the centre of another motif.
The next block will be available 3 May.
Block 2 Dahlia Bud (make 4) NOTES:

Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn
Yarns used: You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete
When fastening off a yarn at the end of a round, the slip stitch
that you have made to join can look like a stitch when you are
3662 3665 3669 and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
Sunflower Ivory Nocturne subsequent rounds.
EQUIPMENT Dealing with yarn ends

Size E/4 & G/6 (3.5mm & 4mm) hook I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
Sewing needle the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are
MEASUREMENT less likely to loose stitches or make errors with your tension.
Pre blocked 8in (20cm) wide at widest point
Pattern Note
ABBREVIATIONS MP: Make Popcorn
ch(s) chain(s) RS right side Make 5dc, remove hook from last loop.
cm centimeter(s) sc single crochet Making sure that the stitch does not unravel, insert hook into
dc double crochet sp(s) space(s) top of 1st double crochet of 5dc group from the front.
dc2tog work double crochet ss slip stitch Place the yarn loop from the top of the 5th double crochet
sts together (1 st decreased) st(s) stitch(es) back onto the hook so that there are 2 sts on the hook.
hdc half double crochet tch turning chain Wrap yarn round hook and draw through to form a popcorn.
in inch(es) WS wrong side
2
Block 2 Dahlia Bud (make 4)
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
3
METHOD into next st (this st is the ch that leads into the top of the next
Using Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to hdcit looks like it sits before the post of the hdc), 1dc into
form a ring each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch; repeat from * to
end, ss to join (42sts & 6ch sps)
ring, ss to join, fasten off (12sts)
Round 1: Using Ivory, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +

ch2 (counts as 1st dc of popcorn), MP into same st, ch3, skip
next st, * MP into next st, ch3, skip next st; repeat from * to
end, ss to join, fasten off (6 popcorns made)
1 2

1 2
3 4
Round 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st (the 1st true dc
5 6
made on the previous round), * 1dc into each next 5sts, dc2tog
over next 2sts, ch3, 1sc into next ch sp, ch3, dc2tog over next
2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting dc2tog over 2sts on final
pattern repeat, skip 3ch, ss to top of next dc to join (42sts & 12
ch sps with 1sc in between)
1 2
Round 2: Using Nocturne & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook join yarn
into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 + ch1 (counts as 1hdc), 4hdc
into same ch sp, ch1, * 5hdc into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from
* to end, ss to 2nd ch of ch-2 made at beginning of round to
join, (30sts & 6 ch sps) 3 4
1 2
Round 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st, * 1dc into
Round 3: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc each next 3sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch
into next st, (the 1st true hdc made on the previous round), sp] twice, 3ch, dc2tog over next 2sts; repeat from * to end,
1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, * 2dc omitting dc2tog over 2sts on final pattern repeat, skip 3ch
4
made at beginning of round, ss to top of next dc to join (30sts Joining your pieces as you work
& 18 ch sps) If you want to join your motifs as you make them, do not fasten
1 2 off at the end of the last round
Using size G/6 (4mm) hook, ss into each next 2sts so that your
hook is in the central sc of 3sc group
Round 7: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st, * 1dc into next
st, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3,
dc2tog over next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting dc2tog
over 2sts on final pattern repeat, skip 3ch made at beginning
of round, ss to top of next dc to join (18sts & 24 ch sps) Using the layout diagram as your reference, ch1, holding the
correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc
of 3sc group made at corner of block & the corresponding st on
the other block so that your hook is through 2 sts, 1sc into the
sts, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces
all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the
final sc into the central sts, at corner, fasten off
1 2
Round 8: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch1 (does not count as a
st), skip st at base of ch-1, * 5hdc into next st (this is the central
dc of group made at tip of petal shape), skip next st, [3sc into
next ch sp] twice, 1sc into next sc, [3sc into next ch sp] twice,
skip next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join (108sts)
Repeat for all 4 motifs
Half Dahlia Bud

Using Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch 5, join with a ss to
form a ring
Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into ring,
ss to join, fasten off (12sts)
Round 9: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 1sc into next st, * 3sc into Round 1: Using Ivory, join yarn into any st by working ch1 + ch2
next st, 1sc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting (counts as 1st dc of popcorn), MP into same st, ch3, skip next
1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts) st, * MP into next st, ch3, skip next st; repeat from * to end, ss to
join, fasten off (6 popcorns made)
From this point you are going to work in rows rather than in
rounds, this means you need to turn at the end of each row.
Check that you have the correct side facing you at all times.
(WS) means wrong side facing
(RS) means right side facing
Sew in yarn ends

Place stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3sc) if required
Pre Blocked Measurement: 8in (20cm) at widest point
5
Row 1: (RS facing) Using Nocturne & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook Row 5: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3,
join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 + ch1 (counts as 1hdc), 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch
2hdc into same ch sp, ch1, [5hdc into next ch sp, ch1] twice, sp] twice, ch3, * dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts,
3hdc into next ch sp, turn (16sts & 3 ch sps) dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp,] twice, ch3;
repeat from *, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into next st, 1dc into 3rd
ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (16sts & 9ch sps)
Row 2: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3,

1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, [2dc into next
st, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch] twice, Row 6: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3,
2dc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1dc into 2nd ch of 2tch made at dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, *
beginning of last row, turn (22sts & 3ch sps) dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts,
[ch3, 1sc into next ch sp,] 3 times, ch3; repeat from * , dc2tog
over next 2sts, 1dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last
row, turn (10sts & 12ch sps)
Row 3: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3,

1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, [2dc into
next st, 1dc into each next 5sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch]
twice, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 1dc into 3rd ch of Row 7: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch2 (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc
tch made at beginning of last row, turn (28sts & 3ch sps) into st at base of ch-2, * [3sc into next ch sp] twice, 1sc into
1 2 next sc, [3sc into next ch sp] twice, skip next st, 5hdc into next
st (this is the central dc of group made at tip of petal shape);
repeat from * , [3sc into next ch sp] twice, 1sc into next sc, [3sc
into next ch sp] twice, skip next st, 3hdc into 3rd ch of tch made
at beginning of last row, fasten off, do not turn (55sts)
Row 4: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of

ch-3, 1dc into each next 2sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, ch3, 1sc
into next ch sp, ch3, [dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next
5sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, ch3, 1sc into next ch sp, ch3] twice,
dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 2sts, 1dc into 3rd ch of
tch made at beginning of last row, turn (22sts & 6 ch sps)
6
Row 8: (RS facing) Using size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into
2nd ch of ch-2 made at beginning of last row by working ch1
(does not count as a st), 2sc into same st, * 1sc into each next
17sts, 3sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting 1sc (of 3sc
group) on final pattern repeat, fasten off (61sts)
1 2
Sew in yarn ends

Place stitch marker into corner sts if required
Joining your pieces

Using Nocturne & size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout
diagram as your reference, & holding the correct block in front,
with RS facing inwards, join yarn into pair of corresponding
corner sts on both blocks by working ch1, work 1sc into all
corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along
to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the
central sts, at corner, fasten off
US Terms
Bird of Paradise
1
Block 3 Bird of Paradise

When I design a project made up of lots of different motifs and pieces I tend to design from the middle
out. In the case of Fridas Flower Blanket I designed Ring of Roses (which has now become Block 6)
first, followed by the central motif so that I had an idea of the formation of the focal point of the blanket
and could then design the pieces to slot in around them. I suppose in effect I worked in the reverse way
to you, starting with the more complicated pieces first, then designing the simpler motifs.
In 1943 Frida Kahlo painted a picture called Self Portrait with monkeys, bird of paradise flower. It is a
painting that I really love, partly because the monkeys look like they are protecting Frida and are a little
worried about her, but also because of the beautiful Strelitzia flower (bird of paradise) and leaves that
Frida has painted in behind her.
This block is a little harder to make than the blocks you have already made. You need to make 4 so it
is my suggestion that you work in stages, completing the 4 pieces in unison to each of your chosen
stages, even if this means doing just a round at a time on each one.
Block 3 Bird of Paradise (make 4) Yarns used: NOTES:

You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete
3567 3672 3662 that you have made to join can look like a stitch when you are
Plum Poppy Sunflower working the following round. Make sure you count correctly
and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
subsequent rounds.
Dealing with yarn ends

3097 3665 3093 I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
Leaf Ivory Black the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
less likely to loose stitches or make errors with your tension.
Joining your pieces

3095 3656 3669 You will join them together using single crochet and a size
Greek Blue Toffee Nocturne
G/6 (4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch
instead, but will need to use a larger hook (size 7 / 4.5mm).
EQUIPMENT When joining, corner sts on the motifs need to be used more
Size G/6 (4mm) hook used throughout than once.
Sewing needle
Pattern Note
MEASUREMENT MP: Make Popcorn
Pre blocked 7in (19.5cm) wide at widest point Make 5dc, remove hook from last loop.
Making sure that the stitch does not unravel, insert hook into
ABBREVIATIONS top of 1st double crochet of 5dc group from the front.
ch(s) chain(s) RS right side Place the yarn loop from the top of the 5th double crochet
cm centimeter(s) sc single crochet back onto the hook so that there are 2 sts on the hook.
dc double crochet sp(s) space(s) Wrap yarn round hook and draw through to form a popcorn.
dc2tog work 2 double crochet ss slip stitch
sts together (1 st decreased) st(s) stitch(es)
dc3tog work 3 double crochet tch turning chain
sts together (2 sts decreased) WS wrong side
hdc half double crochet
2
Block 3 Bird of Paradise (make 4)
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
3
METHOD Round 4: Using Greek Blue, join yarn into any ch-3 sp by
Using Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to working ch1 + ch2, (counts as 1dc), 6dc into same ch sp, ch3, *
form a ring skip ch-5 sp, 7dc into next ch-3 sp, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss
to join, fasten off (42sts & 6ch sps)
Round 1: Using Plum, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +

Round 5: Using Nocturne join yarn into 2nd ch of any ch-3

group made on previous round by working ch1, (does not
count as a st), 1sc into same ch, * ch1, skip 1ch, 1sc into each
next 2sts, [ch1, 1sc into next st] 4 times, 1sc into next st, ch1,
skip 1ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * to end, omitting last
1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working

ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, ch1, * 5sc
into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off
(30sts & 6ch sps)
Measurement: 4in (12cm) across centerwidest point of

petal to petal
Round 6: Using Toffee join yarn into any sc made in ch

between petals on previous round by working ch1 (does not
Round 3: Using Leaf join yarn into any ch-1 sp by working ch1 count as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch2, skip 1ch & 2sc, 1sc into
+ ch2, dc2tog into same ch sp (counts as dc3tog), ch3, dc3tog next ch sp, [ch1, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch2, skip 2sc &
into same ch sp, ch5, * [dc3tog, ch3, dc3tog] into next ch sp, 1ch, 1sc into next sc; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on
ch5; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
4
Round 7: Using Black and working at the reverse side of Round 10: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal
the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn through back of group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count
central sc of group made on flower on Round 5 (Nocturne) by as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, * 4sc into next ch sp, 2sc into next
working ch1 (counts as 1sc), * ch5, working to the front of the 3 ch sp, working in front of ch-3 sp made on previous round,
previous rounds dc3tog into ch-5 sp made on Round 3 (Leaf), dc3tog into ch-2 sp made on Round 8 (Sunflower), 2sc into
ch5, 1sc into back of central sc of next group made on Round same ch sp, 4sc into next ch sp, 5sc into next ch sp; repeat from
5 (Nocturne); repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final * to end, omitting 5sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not
pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off fasten off (108sts)
1 2 1 2
3
st, 1dc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 2dc
on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)
Round 8: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp made on round

6 (Toffee) to the left of any dc3tog made on previous round by
working ch1 (does not counts as a st), 2sc into same ch sp, *
[ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2, skip dc3tog, 2sc into next Sew in yarn ends
ch sp; repeat from * 4 times, [ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, Place stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3dc) if required
ch2, ss to join, fasten off
1 2 Pre Blocked Measurement: 7in (19.5cm) at widest point
Round 9: Using Ivory join yarn into first ch-1 sp of 4 x ch-1 sps
(between 2 sets of 2sc) made on previous round by working ch1 Joining your pieces
+ ch2, dc2tog into same ch sp (counts as dc3tog), * [ch3, dc3tog You can join one side of this motif as you make it, if you want to
into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, skip 2sc & 2ch & 2sc, dc3tog do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round
into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting dc3tog on final
pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off Using size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your
1 2 reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with RS facing
inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at corner of block
& the corresponding st on the other block so that your hook is
through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into all corresponding
pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at
next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner,
fasten off
5
To join the other side of the motif

Using Black or Plum size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout
US Terms
Rosa
1
Block 4 Rosa
One of Fridas very first paintings is entitled Still Life Roses and she painted it in 1925.
Frida often wore roses in her hair or tucked one behind her ear, so I wanted to have a few rose
themes coming through the design of the blanket. This piece is a combination of a small flower
(which uses the popcorn stitches used in Block 2 again) and the construction of the
Bird of Paradise blocks that you made last time.
I really love some of the colour combinations in this piece. I like the toffee shade alongside
the bright Greek Blue and love the way the shades sit on the dark background. Colour combinations
are always such a surprise to me (even though it means I rip work back ALL the time).
I love seeing how different shades react with each other. Bright blue and green shades
along with the pinks and reds of traditional flower patterns on black backgrounds are a very
common design theme in Mexican textiles and there are numerous images of Frida wearing
dresses which included traditional embroidery.
Block 4 Rosa (make 4) Yarns used: NOTES:

3567 3672 3674 that you have made to join can look like a stitch when you are
Plum Poppy Shrimp working the following round. Make sure you count correctly
and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
subsequent rounds.

3662 3669 3665 I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
Sunflower Nocturne Ivory the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
Joining your pieces

3093 3095 3656 You will join them together using single crochet and a size
Black Greek Blue Toffee
EQUIPMENT
Size G/6 (4mm) hook used throughout
than once.
Sewing needle
Pattern Note
MEASUREMENT
MP: Make Popcorn
Pre blocked 7in (19.5cm) wide at widest point
Make 5dc, remove hook from last loop.
ABBREVIATIONS
top of 1st double crochet of 5dc group from the front.
ch(s) chain(s) sc single crochet
Place the yarn loop from the top of the 5th double crochet
cm centimeter(s) sp(s) space(s)
back onto the hook so that there are 2 sts on the hook.
dc double crochet ss slip stitch
Wrap yarn round hook and draw through to form a popcorn.
dc3tog work 3 double crochet st(s) stitch(es)
sts together (2 sts decreased) tch turning chain
hdc half double crochet WS wrong side
RS right side
2
Block 4 Rosa (make 4)
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
3
METHOD Round 4: Using Shrimp join yarn into base of any 1sc made
Using Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to between any 2 petals on previous round by working ch1
form a ring (counts as 1 spike sc) this st covers up the post of the scbe
careful not to over pull this stitch as it could come loose, *
Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into skip next hdc, 2sc into next st, [1sc into next st, 2sc into next
ring, ss to join, fasten off (12sts) st] twice, spike sc into base of next sc made between next 2
petals made on previous round; repeat from * to end, omitting
Round 1: Using Plum, join yarn into any st by working ch1 + last spike sc on final pattern repeat, ss to center of spike st at
ch2 (counts as 1st dc of popcorn), MP into same st, ch3, skip beginning of round join, fasten off (54sts)
next st, * MP into next st, ch3, skip next st; repeat from * to 1 2
Measurement: 3in (8.5cm) across centerwidest point of

petal to petal
Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working
ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, 5sc into each Round 5: Using Greek Blue and working at the reverse side of
ch sp to end, ss to join, (30sts) the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn around the reverse
side of the spiked sc made on Round 4 (Shrimp) by working
ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch6, 1sc into
reverse side of next spiked sc as before; repeat from * to end,
omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, (6 ch sps
made)
1 2
Round 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st) skip st at base of ch-1, *

1hdc into next st, 2dc into each next 2sts, 1hdc into next st, 1sc
into next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (42sts)
Round 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 6dc into same st, ch1, 1sc into
next ch sp, ch1, * 7dc into next sc, ch1, 1sc into next ch sp, ch1;
repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off
4
Round 7: Using Nocturne join yarn into top of 1st dc of any Round 10: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp made on round
7dc group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not 8 (Toffee) to the left of any dc3tog made on previous round by
count as a st), 1sc into same st, * 1sc into next st, [ch1, 1sc into working ch1 (does not count as a st), 2sc into same ch sp, * [ch1,
next st] 4 times, 1sc into next st, ch3, 1sc into top of next dc; 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2, skip dc3tog, 2sc into next ch
repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss sp; repeat from * 4 times, [ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2,
to join, fasten off ss to join, fasten off
Measurement: 4in (10.5cm) across center widest point of Round 11: Using Ivory join yarn into first ch-1 sp of 4 x ch-1 sps
petal to petal (between 2 sets of 2sc) made on previous round by working ch1
+ ch2, dc2tog into same ch sp (counts as dc3tog), * [ch3, dc3tog
Round 8: Using Toffee join yarn into any ch-3 sp made on into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, skip 2sc & 2ch & 2sc, dc3tog
previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting dc3tog on final
same ch sp, * ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc into next ch sp, [ch1, 1sc into pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
next ch sp] 3 times, ch2, 1sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to
end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
Round 12: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal

group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count
Round 9: Using Black and working at the reverse side of the as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, * 4sc into next ch sp, 2sc into next
flower (but with RS facing) join yarn through back of central ch sp, working in front of ch-3 sp made on previous round,
sc of group made on flower on Round 7 (Nocturne) by working dc3tog into ch-2 sp made on Round 10 (Sunflower), 2sc into
ch1 (counts as 1sc), * ch5, working to the front of the 2 previous same ch sp, 4sc into next ch sp, 5sc into next ch sp; repeat from
rounds dc3tog into top of sc made between petals on Round 6 * to end, omitting 5sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not
(Greek Blue) ch5, 1sc into back of central sc of next group made fasten off (108sts)
on Round 7 (Nocturne); repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc 1 2
on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
1 2
5
st, 1dc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 2dc
on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)
Sew in yarn ends

Place stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3dc) if required
Joining your pieces

You can join one side of this motif as you make it, if you want to
do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round
Using size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your
reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with RS facing
inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at corner of block
& the corresponding st on the other block so that your hook is
through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into all corresponding
fasten off
To join the other side of the motif

Using Black & size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram
as your reference, & holding the correct block in front, with RS
facing inwards, join yarn into pair of corresponding corner sts
on both blocks by working ch1, work 1sc into all corresponding
fasten off
US Terms
Heart Rose
1
Block 5 Heart Rose

In 1939 Frida Kahlo painted a canvas that she named The Two Fridas. Frida painted it after her divorce
from Diego and it shows one version of herself wearing an exposed heart, the other version of herself
with a strong heart. The painting represents suffering versus strength and resilience.
When I first started working on the design for this blanket, and was therefore looking at traditional
Mexican fabrics and iconography, I came across designs which featured the heart shape. The sacred
heart motif is one of the most common motifs in religious Mexican folk art and, within the Catholic
religion, it represents the physical heart of Jesus as a symbol of his divine love for humanity.
Trying to incorporate a heart shape into the design presented me with a problem in that the shape of it
would mean the blanket design would have a definite top and lower edge in order for the heart shape
to sit in the right position. I played with heart shapes a lot, but in the end I decided it simply didnt
fit within the design. However, I realised that the shape would work perfectly as a flower petal and set
about designing this piece Heart Rose.
This is one of my favourite pieces within the design and once again it starts with those fabulous popcorn
stitches made at the centre of Block 2.
The next block will be available 14 June.
Block 5 Heart Rose (make 4) NOTES:

Yarns used: Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn
3662 3567 3674 3672 3566 working the following round. Make sure you count correctly
Sunflower Plum Shrimp Poppy Teal and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
subsequent rounds.

I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
3097 3658 3665 3093 the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
Leaf Mauve Ivory Black Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are
EQUIPMENT
Joining your pieces
Size G/6 (4mm) hook used throughout
You will join them together using single crochet and a size
Sewing needle
MEASUREMENT
Pre blocked 7in (19.5cm) wide at widest point
than once.
ABBREVIATIONS
Pattern Note
ch(s) chain(s) sc single crochet
MP: Make Popcorn
cm centimeter(s) sp(s) space(s)
Make 5dc, remove hook from last loop.
dc double crochet ss slip stitch
dc3tog work 3 double crochet st(s) stitch(es)
top of 1st double crochet of 5dc group from the front.
sts together (2 sts decreased) tch turning chain
Place the yarn loop from the top of the 5th dc back onto the
hdc half double crochet tr treble
hook so that there are 2 sts on the hook.
in inch(es) WS wrong side
Wrap yarn round hook and draw through to form a popcorn.
RS right side
2
Block 5 Heart Rose (make 4)
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
3
METHOD sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (84sts)

Using Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to 1 2
form a ring

Round 1: Using Plum, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +

3 4
Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working Measurement: 4-4in (10-10.5cm) across centerwidest point
ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same ch sp, 6dc into each of petal to petal
ch sp to end, ss to join, fasten off (36sts)
Round 5: Using Teal and working at the reverse side of the flower
(but with RS facing) join yarn around the reverse side of the
spiked sc made on Round 4 (Poppy) by working ch1 (does not
count as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch4, 1tr into sc at base of ch-4,
ch4, ss into same sc, ch7, 1sc into reverse side of next spiked sc
as before; repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern
repeat, ss to join, fasten off (base for 6 leaves complete)
1 2
Round 3: Using Shrimp join yarn into top of 2nd dc of any 6dc
group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch1 (counts
as 1hdc), * 2dc into each next 3sts, 1hdc into next st, ch1, skip
next st, 1hdc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting 1hdc
on final pattern repeat, ss to 2nd ch of ch-2 at beginning of
round to join, fasten off (48sts)
3 4
Round 4: Using Poppy join yarn into st sp between any 2 5
groups of 6dc made on Round 2 (also worked using Poppy) by

working ch1 (counts as 1 spike sc - be careful not to over pull
this stitch as it could come loose), * skip ch made on previous
round (this is now covered by the spike sc) & skip st at top of
next hdc, 1sc & 1hdc into next st, 3dc into next st, 1hdc into next
st, ss into next st, 1hdc into next st, 3dc into next st, 1hdc & 1sc
into next st, spike sc into st sp made between next 2 groups of
6dc made on Round 2; repeat from * to end, omitting last spike
4
Round 6: Using Leaf join yarn into 4th ch of any ch-7 made Round 9: Using Ivory join yarn into any sc made on previous
on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), round by working ch1 (does not counts as a st), 1sc into same
1sc into same ch, * ch1, 1dc into next ch sp (between ch-4 & st, * ch3, skip next 2hdc (note that for hdc, the top of the stitch
tr), ch1, [1dc, ch1 into same ch sp] 3 times, 1dc into same ch lies to the right of the post and can look like a chain stitch),
sp, ch3, ss into st at base of ch-3 to make picot, [1dc, ch1 into [dc3tog into next st, ch3] 3 times, skip 1hdc & 3ch, 1sc into next
next ch sp] 5 times, skip 3ch of ch-7 made on previous round, ch; repeat from * omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to
1sc into next ch; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final join, fasten off
pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves complete) 1 2
1 2
Round 10: Using Black join yarn into ch sp before any central
Round 7: Using Sunflower join yarn into top of any sc made dc3tog group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2
between leaves on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as a 1dc), * 5dc into next ch sp, [4dc into next ch sp]
(counts as 1dc), 4dc into same st, * ch7 behind leaf, 5dc into twice, 5dc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 1dc on
next sc; repeat from * to end, omitting last 5dc on final pattern final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)
repeat, ss to join, fasten off (30dc & 6 x ch-7 sps) 1 2
1 2
Round 8: Using Mauve join yarn into 4th ch of any ch-7

made on previous round by working ch1 (does not counts as
a st), 1sc into same ch, * ch3, skip next dc, 1hdc into next st,
2hdc into each next 2sts, 1hdc into next st, ch3, skip 3ch of
ch-7 made on previous round, 1sc into next ch; repeat from *
omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (36
hdc & 12 x ch-3 sps)
Round 11: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 3sc into next st, * 1sc
into each next 8sts, 1hdc into center of picot made at top of leaf
made on Round 6, skip next st made on previous round, 1sc into
each next 8sts, 3sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting
3sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)
1 2
Note: The last round may cause your crochet to form a slight
cup shapethis should settle down on the next round, but it
is worth keeping your eye on it. If your crochet does not settle
down by the end of Round 9, try making your chain stitches a
little looser on Round 8 & 9.
Sew in yarn ends

5
Joining your pieces

You can join one side of this motif as you make it, if you want to
do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round
Using size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as
your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with
RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at
corner of block & the corresponding st on the other block so
that your hook is through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into
all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along
To join the other sides of the motif

Using Black & size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout
central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams if
required, fasten off
US Terms
Ring of Roses
1
Block 6 Ring of Roses

This block is the first motif I designed for this project and was the first piece that I presented to
Stylecraft as an illustration of my design. Thankfully they liked the idea, so I then used this motif as the
template for all the others.
There is a very famous photographic image of Frida Kahlo with roses in her hair, sat against a dark green
flowery background and it is this image that I used as the inspiration for this motif.
I really like the 3D aspect of crochet and really like designing projects that have an aspect of relief motifs
and textural stitches. I designed 3D flowers in the Lily Pond CAL design from last year and wanted to
do this again. Working a framework behind the flower can be a little tricky, but I took a few images to
help you along the way. The French knots are sewn onto this design to give it an extra bit of detail and
you will find step-by-step images of how to make the sewn stitches within the pattern.
The next block will be available 28 June.
Block 6 Ring of Roses (make 6)

Yarns used:
3567 3672 3674 3662 3566 3097 3665 3093

Plum Poppy Shrimp Sunflower Teal Leaf Ivory Black
EQUIPMENT NOTES:
Size G/6 (4mm) hook used throughout Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn
Stitch markers You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete
Sewing needle rounds and fasten off the yarn, rather than joining mid stitch.
Large eye needle for bullion stitches When fastening off a yarn at the end of a round, the slip stitch
MEASUREMENT working the following round. Make sure you count correctly
Pre blocked 8in (20cm) wide at widest point and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
subsequent rounds.
ABBREVIATIONS
ch(s) chain(s) sp(s) space(s) Dealing with yarn ends
cm centimeter(s) ss slip stitch I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
dc double crochet st(s) stitch(es) the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
dc3tog work 3 double crochet tch turning chain Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are
sts together (2 sts decreased) tr treble less likely to lose stitches or make errors with your tension.
in inch(es) Joining your pieces
RS right side You will join them together using single crochet and a size
sc single crochet G/6 (4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch
than once.
2
Block 6 Ring of Roses (make 6)
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
3
METHOD Round 4: Using Poppy join yarn into top of 2nd sc of any 2sc
Using Plum & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a
a ring st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * 1hdc into next st, 2dc into next
st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, 1hdc into next st,
Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into 1sc into each next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc
ring, ss to join, fasten off (12sts) on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (60sts)
Round 1: Using Poppy, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +

ch2 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same st, 2dc into each st to end,
Place markers into sts on Round 2 in line with the space

between each petal as in the imagecounting 5sts between
each marker
1 2
Round 2: Using Shrimp join yarn into any st by working ch1
(does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * 2sc into
next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, last st, 2sc into
next st. ss to join, fasten off (36sts)
Round 5: Using Shrimp join yarn into top of hdc made before
any 2sc made on previous round by working ch1 (does not
count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * working at the front
of the flower, 1dc around the post of the next marked st made
on Round 2, skip 2sc, 1sc into top of next hdc, 2sc into each
Round 3: Using Plum join yarn into top of 1st sc of any 2sc next 6sts, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end; omitting last sc
group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (90sts)
count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * 1hdc into next st,
[2dc into next st] twice, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into each next
2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 1sc on final pattern repeat,
Measurement: 4in (12cm) across centerpetal to petal
4
Bullion Stitches Round 7: Using Leaf join yarn into ch made at tip of any leaf
Sew the decorative bullion sts in place at this point as follows: made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as
Using Sunflower and a large eye sewing needle, sew 12 bullion a st), 3sc into st at base of ch-1, * 1sc into each next 6sts, 1sc
stitches in place using the st sps between the single crochet into next ch, ch3, 1sc into next ch, skip 3ch & 1sc, working into
sts made on Round 2 as your guide for placement. remaining side of ch, 1tr into each next 2ch, 1dc into each next
2ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1sc into next ch, 3sc into next ch made
To make a bullion st, wrap the yarn around the needle 4 times at tip of leaf; repeat from * to end, omitting last 3sc on final
before inserting the needle into the st sp, bring the needle out pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves complete)
to the front of the work through the next st sp, gently pulling 1 2
the needle through the wrapped yarn loops to form the bullion.
1 2
3 4
3 4
Round 6: Using Teal and working at the reverse side of the

flower (but with RS facing) join yarn around the post between
2sc made between any 2 petals on Round 4 (Poppy) and
skipped on Round 5, by working ch1 (counts as 1sc), * ch7,
working along ch just made work as follows: skip 1ch, 1sc
into next ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1tr into
each next 2ch, ch5, working at the reverse side of the flower
as before, 1sc around post between next 2 skipped scs; repeat
from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to
join, fasten off (6 leaves half complete)
1 2
3 4
5
Round 8: Using Sunflower join yarn into any ch-3 sp made on Round 10: Using Black join yarn into ch sp before any central
previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 4dc into dc3tog group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2
same ch sp, * ch7 behind leaf, 5dc into next ch-3 sp; repeat from (counts as 1dc), * 5dc into next ch sp, [4dc into next ch sp] twice,
* to end, omitting last 5dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, 5dc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 1dc on final
fasten off (30dc & 6 x ch-7 sps) pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)
1 2 1 2
3 3
Note: The last round may cause your crochet to form a slight Round 11: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 3sc into next st, * 1sc
cup shapethis should settle down on the next round, but it into each next 8sts, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group at top of leaf
is worth keeping your eye on it. If your crochet does not settle made on Round 7, skip next st made on previous round, 1sc into
down by the end of Round 10, try making your chain stitches a each next 8sts, 3sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting
little looser on Round 8 & 9. 3sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)
Round 9: Using Ivory join yarn into 4th ch of any ch-7 made on
previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into
same ch, * ch3, skip next dc, [dc3tog into next st, ch3] 3 times,
skip 1dc & 3ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * omitting last sc
on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
1 2
Sew in yarn ends

6
Joining your pieces

You can join the sides of this motif as you make it, if you want
to do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round
your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with
RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at
central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams as

central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams if
US Terms
Fridas Bouquet
1
Block 7 Fridas Bouquet

Frida married Diego Rivera in 1929 when she was 22, much to the disappointment of Fridas parents
who referred to the couple as the elephant and the dove. The couple divorced 10 years later, only to
remarry in 1940. Despite the tempestuous and volatile nature of their relationship it is clear that they
were inseparable and Diego was devastated by her death in 1954.
I based the design of this piece on one of Fridas many self-portraits Diego on My Mind which she
painted in 1943. In the painting Frida shows herself in a white traditional Tehuana dress with an image
of Diego on her forehead. What looks like bougainvillea flowers and white daisies are arranged in her
hair. The painting portrays Fridas constant thought stream involving Diego and her profound sentiment
and passion for him.
This motif sits at the centre of the blanket and at the centre point of both ends of the blanket. This
was the second motif that I designed for the blanket and it took me a while to get it right getting
the complexity of the design of the motif to come out the same size as the other motifs was a bit of a
challenge, but I got there in the end!
The edging instructions will be available 12 July.
Block 7 Fridas Bouquet (make 5)

Yarns used:
3097 3674 3566 3567 3672 3662 3095 3665 3093

Leaf Shrimp Teal Plum Poppy Sunflower Greek Blue Ivory Black
(for embroidery)
EQUIPMENT NOTES:
Size G/6 (4mm) hook used throughout Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn
Sewing needle You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete
MEASUREMENT When fastening off a yarn at the end of a round, the slip stitch
Pre blocked 7in (19.5cm) wide at widest point that you have made to join can look like a stitch when you are
ABBREVIATIONS and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
ch(s) chain(s) sp(s) space(s) subsequent rounds.
cm centimeter(s) ss slip stitch
dc double crochet st(s) stitch(es) Dealing with yarn ends
dc2tog work 2 double crochet tch turning chain I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
sts together (1 st decreased) tr treble the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
dc3tog work 3 double crochet tr3tog work 3 treble sts Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are
sts together (2 sts decreased) together (2 sts decreased) less likely to lose stitches or make errors with your tension.
in inch(es) Joining your pieces
RS right side You will join them together using single crochet and a size
sc single crochet G/6 (4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch
than once.
2
Block 7 Fridas Bouquet (make 5)
2 1 1 2
5 3 5
4 2 2 4
1 6 1
7 6 6 7
8 3 7 3 8
7 6 6 7
1 6 1
4 2 2 4
5 3 5
2 1 1 2
8
3
METHOD Round 4: Ch1 (does not count as a st), * 2sc into next ch sp,
Using Leaf & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form ch6, working along ch just made work as follows: skip 1ch, 1sc
a ring into next ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1hdc
into next ch, 1sc into ch sp at base of ch; repeat from * to end,
Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves half complete)
ring, ss to join, (12sts) 1 2
Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * ch2,
skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting last
sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6sts & 6 ch-2
sps)
Round 2: Using Ivory join yarn into any ch sp by working ch1

off (6 petals made) Round 5: Using Leaf, join yarn into 2nd sc of any 3sc made
into any ch sp on previous round, ch1, 1sc into st at base of
ch-1, 1sc into next st, * working into remaining side of ch, 1hdc
into next ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1sc into
next ch, 1sc into next ch at tip of leaf, ch5, 1sc into same ch,
1sc into each next 5sts, 1sc into each next 3sc; repeat from * to
end, omitting 2sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
(6 leaves complete)
1 2
Round 3: (RS facing) Using Teal & working from behind the
flower you have just made, join yarn into any skipped sc made
on Foundation Round by working ch1 (does not count as a st),
1sc into st at base of ch-1, ch3, * 1sc into next skipped st, ch3;
repeat from * to end, ss to join, (6sts & 6 ch-3 sps)
1 2
Round 6: Using Plum join yarn into central sc of any 3sc

group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts
as 1dc), 2dc into same st, ch5 behind leaf, *3dc into next
central sc of 3sc group, ch5 behind leaf; repeat from * to end,
ss to join, fasten off (18sts & 6 ch-5 sps)
4
Round 7: Using Poppy join yarn into 3rd ch of any ch-5 made Round 10: Using Ivory join yarn into top of 2nd dc of any 12dc
on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2, dc2tog
into ch at base of ch-1, * ch2, 1dc into next dc, 3dc into next st, into next 1st (counts as dc3tog), * [ch3, dc3tog over next 3sts]
1dc into next st, ch2, skip 2ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * to 3 times, ch4, skip 5ch & 1dc made on previous round, dc3tog
end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten over next 2sts by working 1 incomplete dc st into next st & 2
off into the following st; repeat from * to end, omitting dc3tog on
final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
Round 8: Using Shrimp, join yarn into any sc made into ch on

previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into Round 11: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal
st at base of ch-1, * ch2, skip 2ch, [1sc into next st, ch1] 4 times, 1sc group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not
into next st, ch2, skip 2ch, 1sc into next sc; repeat from * to end, count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, * 4sc into next ch sp, 2sc
omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off into next ch sp, working in front of ch-5 made on Round 9
1 2 tr3tog into central sc of group made on Round 8 (Shrimp), 2sc
into same ch sp, 4sc into next ch sp, 5sc into next ch sp; repeat
from * to end, omitting 5sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join,
do not fasten off (108sts)
1 2
Round 12: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * 3sc
into next st, 1sc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end,
omitting 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off
(120sts)
Measurement: 4-4in (11-11.5cm) measuring across widest

point of last round (not measuring to widest point of Round 5)
Round 9: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp at tip of any

leaf made on Round 5 by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc),
11dc into same ch sp, ch5, * 12dc into ch sp at tip of next leaf,
ch5; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (72dc & 6 ch-5
sps)
1 2 Sew in yarn ends
5
Using Greek Blue, sew 6 bullion sts at flower center using the Joining your pieces
image as a guide. You can join the sides of this motif as you make it, if you want
See Ring of Roses (pattern 6) for guidance on sewing bullion to do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round
sts.
Place stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3sc) if your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with
required RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at
central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams as

diagram as your reference, & holding the correct block
Pre Blocked Measurement: 7in (19.5cm) at widest point in front, with RS facing inwards, join yarn into pair of
corresponding corner sts on both blocks by working ch1,
work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all
the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the
final sc into the central sts, at corner, continue in this way for
further seams if required, fasten off
US Terms
Fridas Edging
1
Block 8 Edging
When I was designing this piece I wanted to try and make the making up and finishing process as quick
and easy as possible. By joining as many of your blocks together as you can as you go along means that
you dont have a massive making up job to do, but you do need to add the edging.
When I design my blankets I like the edgings to be straight rather than be dictated by the shape of the
motif I have chosen to use. I suppose I think in the same way as a patchwork designer would when
laying out the pieces of a quilt. This tends to give me a bit of a challenge in terms of design as I often
have to design small filling pieces to make sure things straighten out and I am not left with strange
shaped edgings. However, on this blanket I really liked the zigzag edge created by the hexagon shapes
at the top and the bottom, so decided not to design fill in pieces.
With all the intricacies of the motifs I decided to keep the border simple and so opted for a relatively
easy edging. I really like the fact that that it looks like rickrack braiding and think it would look as good
in any of the other left over shades.
NOTES:
Block 8 Edging Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn
Yarns used: You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete
3672 3674 3093 and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working
Poppy Shrimp Black subsequent rounds.

EQUIPMENT I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go alongdoing this makes
Size G/6 & 7 (4mm & 4.5mm) hook the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do.
Sewing needle Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are
MEASUREMENT
Pre blocked 7in (19.5cm) wide at widest point Joining your pieces
You will join them together using single crochet and a size
ABBREVIATIONS G/6 (4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch
ch(s) chain(s) sp(s) space(s) instead, but will need to use a larger hook (size 7 / 4.5mm).
cm centimeter(s) ss slip stitch When joining, corner sts on the motifs need to be used more
RS right side st(s) stitch(es) than once.
sc single crochet WS wrong side
sc3tog work 3 single crochet
sts together (2 sts decreased)
2
Block 8 Edging
3
METHOD Round 1: On the next round you will start by working along
Once all your pieces are complete and joined together you the zig zag edge, followed by the straight edge
are ready to put the edging on. I have designed a simple
edging as I didnt want to detract from all the detail within the Working along the zig zag edge: With RS facing using
blanket and also had to think about left over yarn amounts. Poppy & size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into central st of
3sc made on previous round at corner by working ch1, 1sc
Note: You will need to use a size G/6 (4mm) hook for the into same st, * [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next st] 9 times, ch1,
single crochet stitches and a size 7 (4.5mm) hook for the slip skip 2 sts, 1sc into st to left side of sc3tog made on previous
stitches. round, ch1, skip 2sts, 1sc into next st, [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into
next st] 9 times (last sc should be in central st of 3sc made on
Foundation round along the edge: With RS facing using previous round), 2sc into same st; repeat from * 4 times,
Black & size 7 (4.5mm) hook, join yarn into last st made at 1 2
top left blanket corner block by working ch1 (this is the final
st made on the last row of a Half Dahlia Block with zig zag
blanket edge to the right and does not count as a st)
Working along the straight edge: * using size 7 (4.5mm)

hook, 16ss along side edge of half motif stopping at the flower,
ch7, leaving ch at the back of the work skip flower, 16ss along
remaining edge of same motif, ** skip join, using size G/6
(4mm) hook and corner stitches again 21sc along edge of next
3
motif; repeat from * twice then work from * to **
Working along the zig zag edge: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook
3sc into next sc (this is the first st of the final row on the Half
Dahlia Block), 1sc into each next 18sts (dont worry if your
stitch count is 1 out either way at this point), * sc3tog over
next 3 sts by working 1 incomplete sc into the next st & the
seam & the next st of the next block, 1sc into each next 18sts,
3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 18sts; repeat from * 3 times,
sc3tog over next 3 sts by working 1 incomplete sc into the
next st & the seam & the next st of the next block, 1sc into each Working along the straight edge: Note: along the next edge
next 18sts, 3sc into next st treat slip stitches and chains made on previous round as you
normally would, but when working into slip stitches work into
You have completed the first edging round on half the one side of ss so that only half the stitch is used
blanketrepeat as set along remaining straight edge and zig
zag edge once more so that all 4 edges have a base round of * ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end of
sts and you finish by working 3sc into same st as ch-1 made at straight edge, making sure last sc is in central st of 3sc made
beginning of round, ss to join, fasten off. at corner on previous round, 2sc into same st
1 2
You have completed the edging round on half the blanket
repeat as set along remaining zig zag edge and straight edge
once more so that all 4 edges have a base round of sts and you
finish by working 2sc into same st as 1sc made at beginning of
round, ss to join, fasten off.
Note: When working along the zig zag edges on the next
round you need to make 1sc into the st to the left of the sc3tog
made on previous round and make 3sc into central st of 3sc
made at tip of zig zag. You may find that in some cases you
need to skip 1 or 2 sts to make the pattern workthis is to do
with the sts you used. If I have written skip next st & you need
to skip 2 that is fine and vice versa. I found I have to skip 2sts Round 2: On the next round you will start by working along
at the tip of the zig zag a couple of times the zig zag edge, followed by the straight edge. Start the
round at the opposite zig zag edge to where you have just
fastened off
4
Working along the zig zag edge: With RS facing using Working along the straight edge: * ch1, skip next st, 1sc into
Shrimp & size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into central st of 3sc next ch sp; repeat from * to end of straight edge, making sure
made on previous round at corner by working ch1, 1sc into last sc is in central st of 3sc made at corner on previous round,
same st, * [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp] 19 times, ch1, 2sc into same st
skip next st, 3sc into next st (this is the central st of 3sc group
made on previous round); repeat from * 4 times You have completed the edging round on half the blanket
Working along the straight edge: * ch1, skip next st, 1sc into once more so that all 4 edges have a base round of sts and you
next ch sp; repeat from * to end of straight edge, making sure finish by working 2sc into same st as 1sc made at beginning of
last sc is in central st of 3sc made at corner on previous round, round, ss to join, fasten off.
2sc into same st
You have completed the edging round on half the blanket

once more so that all 4 edges have a base round of sts and you
finish by working 2sc into same st as 1sc made at beginning of
round, ss to join, fasten off.
1 2
Sew in yarn ends

Block & Press
Round 3: On the next round you will start by working along

the zig zag edge, followed by the straight edge. Start the
round at the opposite zig zag edge to where you have just
fastened off
Working along the zig zag edge: With RS facing using Black
& size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into central st of 3sc made
on previous round at corner by working ch1, 1sc into same st,
* [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp] 9 times (or down to ch
sps at dip of zig zag), 1sc into each next 2 ch sps, [ch1, skip
next st, 1sc into next ch sp] 9 times, ch1, skip next st, 3sc into
next st (this is the central st of 3sc group made on previous
round); repeat from * 4 times
Hello and welcome to the Fridas Flowers Crochet along, designed by Jane Crowfoot.
This is the shade list for all the shades and quantities required to complete the project.
While the patterns are written using Classique Cotton DK, we have supplied a list
of alternative shades and quantities in Special DK and Life DK.
As you will see, there two colour options noted in the Special and Life ranges.
Special DK - There are two colour options for the alternative to plum. Please choose either plum of fuchsia purple.
Life DK - There are two colour options for the alternative to poppy. Please choose either crimson or fuchsia.
Classique Cotton Special DK Life DK

Shade 50g balls Shade 100g balls Shade 100g balls
3093 1002 2307

7 balls 3 balls 3 balls
Black Black Black
1827
3567 Fuchsia 2319
Plum Purple or Cranberry
1061 Plum
3669 1708 2346

Nocturne Petrol Blue Haze
3665 1005 2305

3 balls 1 ball 1 ball
Ivory Cream Cream
2411
3672 1246 Crimson
Poppy Lipstick or 2344
Fuchsia
3674 1132 2359

Shrimp Shrimp Melon
3662 1081 2394

Sunflower Saffron Daffodil
3097 1065 2311

Leaf Meadow Fern
3566 1062 2302

1 ball 1 ball 1 ball
Teal Teal Olive
3095 1068 2357

Greek Blue Turquoise Aqua
3658 1084 2309

Mauve Magenta Heather
3656 1029 2312

Toffee Copper Copper
Stylecraft yarns are available at all good yarn shops. For your nearest stockist telephone 01535 609798

Frida Flower Blanket Full Us Pattern

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1

Block 1 White Cosmos

Block 1 White Cosmos (make 4)

3097 3665 3567

Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into

Round 4: ss into next ch sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 4dc into ch sp

Round 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc

Round 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc

Sew in yarn ends

Half White Cosmos

Round 2: Using Ivory join yarn into any ch sp by working ch1

Row 2: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of

Sew in yarn ends

Pre Blocked Measurement: 7in (19.5cm) at widest point

Row 4: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of

Joining your pieces

Block 2 Dahlia Bud

Block 2 Dahlia Bud (make 4) NOTES:

EQUIPMENT Dealing with yarn ends

Block 2 Dahlia Bud (make 4)

Round 1: Using Ivory, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +

Round 4: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc

Repeat for all 4 motifs

Half Dahlia Bud

Sew in yarn ends

Pre Blocked Measurement: 8in (20cm) at widest point

Row 2: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3,

Row 3: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3,

Row 4: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of

Sew in yarn ends

Pre Blocked Measurement: 8in (20cm) at widest point

Joining your pieces

Block 3 Bird of Paradise

Block 3 Bird of Paradise (make 4) Yarns used: NOTES:

Dealing with yarn ends

Joining your pieces

Block 3 Bird of Paradise (make 4)

Round 1: Using Plum, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +

Round 5: Using Nocturne join yarn into 2nd ch of any ch-3

Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working

Measurement: 4in (12cm) across centerwidest point of

Round 6: Using Toffee join yarn into any sc made in ch

Round 8: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp made on round

Repeat for all 4 motifs

To join the other side of the motif

Block 4 Rosa (make 4) Yarns used: NOTES:

Dealing with yarn ends

Joining your pieces

Block 4 Rosa (make 4)

Measurement: 3in (8.5cm) across centerwidest point of

Round 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st) skip st at base of ch-1, *

Round 12: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal

Sew in yarn ends

Pre Blocked Measurement: 7in (19.5cm) at widest point

Joining your pieces

Repeat for all 4 motifs

To join the other side of the motif

Block 5 Heart Rose

Block 5 Heart Rose (make 4) NOTES:

Dealing with yarn ends

Block 5 Heart Rose (make 4)

METHOD sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (84sts)

Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into

Round 1: Using Plum, join yarn into any st by working ch1 +