SUCKERING
CITRUS GROWING Know where the graft is on your tree. Remove all growth
PLANTING LOCATION
A sunny, wind free southern exposure provides a warm
planting area for citrus. Microclimates are created by re-
flected heat from houses or walkways, providing heat for
frost protection and summer growth if you live in a cooler
region of the country. Citrus is self pollinating. There is no
need for bees for pollination to occur.
PLANTING IN THE GROUND: Zone 9 to Zone 11
Plant the root ball high in the soil to allow for settling.
Stake the plant for the first season so the Citrus Tree will
grow straight, especially if subject to wind. Do not mound
the soil around the plant as this will cause the water to run
away from the plant and roots. Create a generous watering
basin around the plant. Water thoroughly but do not overwa-
ter,; frequency depends on planting location, size and cli-
mate. Water when the soil is dry 1 or 2 deep.
PLANT IN A CONTAINER: Zone 1 to Zone 8
Use a light, well draining potting mix, roots should be just
beneath the surface. Be sure there are numerous drainage
holes in your container. Follow the same planting guidelines
as you would if you were planting directly in the soil. Water
when soil in container is dry at a depth of 1 to 2. Transi-
tion containers outdoors for summer by placing the contain-
er outdoors in shade for several weeks to avoid burning the
leaf tips and reduce stress on the plant. Once acclimated to
the outdoor environment, place in a warm sunny location.
Before temperatures get below 35 at night transition citrus
indoors. Once indoors provide good light and air circulation.
Supplemental lighting , such as grow lights, maintain healthy
growth. If leaves drop this can be an indication of too little
light or too much water. Every 2 to 3 years change soil in the
containers and remove any large, circling roots.
FERTILIZING
Citrus are heavy feeders. It is best to us a balanced fertilizer
which contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in a
ratio of 18-6-6 with trace minerals such as iron, zinc and
manganese. Citrus need more nitrogen than potassium or
phosphorus. Fertilize following instructions on the label.
When moving Citrus indoors to outdoors place trees in semi
shade for several weeks so it acclimates gradually to less
lights.
below the graft as soon as it appears. Suckers reduce the
vigor of the tree. They are generally very vigorous, some
varieties are thorny and som have a different shape leaf
than the scion the top stock.
PRUNING
Citrus look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy
branches; pinching the tips allows for fuller growth. Prun-
ing can be done any time of year except during the winter.
FROST PROTECTION
The age, location, variety and condition of the tree coupled
with the duration of cold determines frost damage. Healthy,
well fertilized trees can tolerate brief dips into the upper
twenties. Limes and Lemons are more sensitive to cold
than mandarins, kumquats and oranges. Protect with Gar-
den Row Cover AF 100 or lights.
CULTURAL INFORMATION
Citrus grows fastest with night temperatures above 70 .
They tend to go dormant with night temperatures below
50 and suffer freeze damage below 28 . Citrus are heavy
feeders so feed all year with a balanced fertilizer that has
trace elements.
Yellowing leaves usually is an indication of lack of
fertilizer or overwatering.
Leaves fall off due to lack of light or overwatering.
Sudden changes in environment (light, temperature, water)
can cause leaves to drop. If this happens the citrus will
usually recover. Water and fertilize as normal; be careful to
not over water during this recovery period.