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KITCHEN
KNIVES
Essential Techniques and Recipes
Hiromitsu Nozaki
with Kate Klippensteen
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Yasuo Konishi
J A P A N E S H KITCHEN KNIVES
JAPANES
KODANSHA INTERNATIONAL
Fok\-o New York London
KITCHEN KNIVES
Essential Techniques and Recipes
Hiromitsu Nozaki
vvith Katc K l i p p e n s t r c n
PHOTOGRAIMIS HY Yasuo Konishi
C O N T N T
Foreword 0
Gcrring
& Started 14
Cutting Posture / Kmle Anatoiny / K m f c Conit
THE USUBA
KatSHramuki Rotary Peeling 26
Distributed in the United States by Kodansha America LLC,
and n the United Kingdom and continental Europe by Daikon and Smokcd Salmn Rolls 29
Kodansha Europe Ltd.
///fi/.'f Butterflying 82
A Knfe for Evcry Function 122
Cirillcd Scmi-dricd RainhowTrout 84
Maintenancc and More 134
Goniai Oroshi rive-piece rlleting 86 Sharpening / Daily Maintonaiu-c / Purcli.ising / Materials /
h'ish Anatomy / Movcmcnt of che Blado
Deep-fried Hirame Nuggets 92
Glossary 151
Prrpariiii 'rah V4 Aiicrwortl 154
C"ral> and Arugul.i witli Shcll-flavorcd Vincgar Index 156
F O R E W O R D
A kitchen knife is a simple tool to cul food, which maki-s it easicr lo lift
vvith chopsticks or a foi'kand casicr to cat. Yet iheiv is another important
reason ro use a knife on ingrediente, and that is to miprovc flavo].
l a k o ,1 romaro, for example, and the act o slicing. A knife with a dull
edge will noi immedately pierce tlic skin. It can saw through thc toniato,
wlucli m essencf is actually crushing thc flesh. And whilc thc slicc might
look fine at a glancc, closcr inspccrion will rcveal an ill-dcfincd cdgc and
a dull surface. A knife with a sharp Hado, howcvcr. cuts through thc fiber
m a singlo clean stroke. 1 he cut cdgc will be sharp and the surface o thc
tmalo will be as smootri and shiny as a inirror. It's clcar to thc e ve which
slicc looks t.isticr.
And you will be surprscd by how mucn better hioj (asics if it's cut
with .1 sharp Japanese kitchen knife, called a bocho. A tomato cu! with a dull
knife loses juice and uiuatni elenicnts, and cvcn when caten ininiediatelv,
the te.xtiirc is Imip. A slicc of lomato ctn \villi a sharp k n i f e , lunvcver, will
overwhelm \'ou with its natural juiciness and umanii.
Thc same goes tor sashimi. A knifc sltccs through the lish's fiber, so
jusr as m slicing tomaioesapplying mnimum pressiiirc on rhe flesh is
imperativo. Pushing or sawmg thc blade though the elastic flesh o the n\
sliould be avoided, which is why a long, tiln, singlc-ground blade, such as
tht-^yu/jii//'i( knifethat necdle.ss lo say. is always kept sharpis ideal.
A yanagiba is pulled through thc sashimi; rhe blade is drawn through
thc fillcts in an arang motion, froni the hecl to thc t i p . Whilc a doublc-
ground knife. anglcd on both sides, parts the (lesh cvcnly on both sides likc
a wcdgc. a smgle-ground knife apphcs pressure only tin one sidc. Smcc only
mnimum pressure has [icen applicd to rhe ish fiber, the sashimi sliccs havc
a wondcrrullv sharp cdgc and glossy s
There are scvcral factors that give traditionally forged Japanese knives their
extreme sharpness. I her stngle-ground constrticnon is one reason, but the
techniques used in lorgmg are also vital. These knivcs are or cur from a
steel slieer, but are madc from cliunks o multen srccl, hammered iii.iny
times until thcy takc shape. Tlie repeated heating and hammering, along
with annealing, quenchng, and coolng, makc thc steel har, yet elastic,
and MVC ii ihe strength to hold an cdijc. I t the tempera ture of rhe hcartli
isn'r riglit, or if the knife is not heated enough or is overheated, or if any
otlier variable is incorrcct, the fimshed tool wi lack that hardness and
elasticity, and will be prono to cracking and chipping. Forging requires a
precise technique tba can only be accomplishcd by a skilled and dedicated
A Japanese knife may be foryed in
arrisan. one of two ways. Honyaki, tradilionally
forged knives, are made entirely of
flie knivt-s I use are madc m S.ik.n, .1 c u y near Osaka that is a rra-
high-carbon steel using a process simi-
ditional centcr tor handmade knives and other cuttmg rools. Many knire lar to the one used to forge Japaneso
,', : T
companies elscwherc havc mechanzed ccrtain parts of rhe knife-making
Knives forged using the awase
process. Tn Sakai, however, ibe seprate tasks involved in makng a knife, method are made of two malcriis,
high-carbon steel and soft ron. The
including Ini-gng, sharpenmg and attaching the wood handles, are divided
first forms a hard culting edge and the
amnn ariis,ins. hacb divisin has an od anisan, or u f e w young persons iron a strong spine and tang resistan!
to chipping and cracking. The repeated
Craining n> becotne cxpcrt in that i.isk. .mJ all the divisions work together heating and pounding process (above)
over tlu' so\-eral days it takcs to m,ike ,1 k n i l e . helps to drive out impurtties from the
metal while merging the two materials.
II yon are lucky enough to own an expertly fotged knife from S;ikai or During the process, Ihe temperatura of
one o the other arrisan towns, picase don't store it away. A kitchen knito the hearth reaches 1400C (2550F)
After basic shaping by further
is a function.il tool, not an art objcct. Don't hoard tt, but use it, .ind du pounding, the knife s coated with clay
to stabilize the temperature and facil-
your bcst or to let it rust. 1 he best way to dsplay sud i k n i f e is through
tate annealing (nght). which hardens
cvcrvd.iv use in your kirdien. ihe steel.
Afteranother round of heating, the
awase blade s quenched in water
(left) to further harden the metal. It is
then reheated as part of a tempering
process that gives the steel resilience
and keeps t frorn becoming too bnttle.
The forged blade s then passed to the
edge crafter for further shaping and
precise sharpening.
A knife-crafter's workshop n
Sakai (right) s dimly Nt on purpose:
the craftsman needs to clearly see
the color of the steel as it s heated in
order to gauge the temperatura cor-
rectly.
1 he knifc is truly che fbundation of Japanese cuisine, and the act of cuttmg
is fundamental. An oft-used rnaxim m [apese cookng, "kalsi-sbu-ho-ju"
(oftcn shortened ro kappo), hterally means "Cur first, then simmcr," stress-
ing rhc bchef rhar "to cut" is actually "to cook." From ancicnr rimes, Japa-
nese cuisinc has had a srrong focus on currmg techniques, which extends
beyond cuttmg raw fbods such as sashrmi and salad grcens to mala1 rhem
look atrractivc on rhe pate. Evcn food tems rhat mighr be smmeredand
therefore might or be prominently visible latermusr be cut artisticaUy
at the preparacin Maye. Potatoes, carrots, onions and other vegetables all
must be shaped wirh precisin and bcauty. Therc is a sirong aestheric tra-
diton m Jap.m that links the appcarancc of food to good flavor.
Yet the act of cuttmg is, m facr. vcry simple. If you own a very sharp
knife, you are basically sharmg the same conditions that exist m a profes-
sional krchen. What makcs rhc gap in the level of technique between the
professionaJ and the home cook is a dcep knowledge, mastered through
long practicc, of knife fundamentis, the attributes of food, and the sci-
cnce of cookng.
'. I
After forging, the still dull blado
s given to another master to cr-
ate the ridge line and cutting edge.
This consists of about thirty steps of
sharpening, polishing, and correct-
ing distortions in the blade (left). The
process transforms dull blades, such
as the ones next to the wood block n
the photo at right, into cutting tools. In
Sakai, the finished blade is then sent to
another master, who attaches the han-
dle (made of ebony or honoki or other
woods that nave been ordered by the
retailer) and water buffalo-horn col-
1,-ir Nilui.il plant oils rn then nihuod
on the blade to prevent rusting (right)
before the knife is packed for delivery.
13
GETTING
STARTED
CUTTING POSTURE*
For borh bcginners and professionals, basic posture and positioning are
crucial. Maintaning the correct stance allows the knfc to be wicldcd with
mnima] forc and efforr; U also allows a clcar vicw of thc board and sur-
round ings,
To assume thc propcr stancc, face thc cutting board and stand firmly, legs
about shoulder-width apart. A distance of about two fists snould seprate
thc body and the curting board. Next, slidc thc right foot a half-stcp back
and inrn ii out about 45 degrees. This frccs thc right arm and knite hand,
allowing them to move straight up and down wichout any interference.
Kccp the uppcr right arm againsr the ribcage, closing rhc armpir. As
thc right foot is back and turncd outward, flus position naturally forms
a kmd of bulwark. In ths postion the right arm extcnds straight to thc
cutting board. Wirh rhc Icft shoulder and hip bent shghtly forward, thc
*AII the directons n this book are
Icf't sidc of the body curves round to meet thc right hand. and thc Icft arm for use wth right-handed knives,
Left-handed knives can be specially
should lorm ,i half arele. With the eyes focused on thc knfc, the cucked
ordered by left-handed readers, who
Ictt ndex and middlc fngcrs should rcst agamst thc back of the knifc. To should simply reverse the diroctions.
14
cut vegetables katsuramwki style frotary peclmg, pagc 26), lifr both the knife
and thc hand holding thc vegetable to work af chest Icvcl.
Filleting fish with the deba knife may requre thc body to shift as the
knife moves, dependmg on the size of the fish. But the basic posturc is
important; that s, standng at an angle to the cutting
board with thc knife tn thc back hand.
lo use thc yanaeiba knife, which has a longcr
blade, t may be necessary to stand a httlc turthcr
from the cutting board. In any case, making thc
Icft side mto a solid bulwark is vcry important when
usmg the yanagiba; this will makc it casy to cut sashim
as clcanly and prcci.scly as possiblc.
KN I FE AN A T O M Y
To use this book emcently, familiarity wirh rhe terms used for rhe v.in-
ous parts of rhe knife is essential. Enghsh words have been used as mnch
as possible, but some of rhe rermsshinogi, for example-havc no Eng-
asto equivalenr, so rhe (apese word has bccn uscd. In reading rhrough
rhc mstructions for how ro cxccutc vanous rechniques, it may be helpful
to rcfcr ro rhis pagc frcqucntly. I,ikcwi.se, when learning how to fillet fish
in the deba section, ir may be useful ro refer to the dagram showing the
aiutoiny of a fish on page 150.
The illustranons here show rhc meta] conrcnr and distribution of both
rhc smgle-forgcd bonyaki and stccl-jackercd awase knivcs. The traditionally-
forgcd honyaki knifc is madc entirely of hqgane high-carbon steel, whrle the
awasc uses hagane carbn stecl for the cutrmg edge and jigam sofr iron for
rhe spine and uppcr blade body.
SECTION VIliVV
[Back side]
Blade length (Hawatari)
Knives that have a notched neck
(machi) are measured not from
the chin, but from the notch. This
reduces the actual blade length by
obout half an inch (1.5 cm).
Heei (Hamato]
Spine (Mine or Mue)
Neck (Emoto)
17
KNIFE CONTROL
'(:j oaoqd)
jo auids 3i[4 Sufdduj Xq p,H|Si[duioj^K
THE USUBA
22
T he usuba knfe may look humblc, bur groar skill is rcquired ro execure
rhc clegant, deraded cuttmg techniques for which it was designed.
Apprentice chcfs, for examplc, spend years practicing wirh this knifc ro
peel a daikon radish into a connuous transparem sheet in order ro perfect
rhcir katsuramuki rorary peeling tcchmquc.
T he usaba is designed for cutrmg vegetables, and its principal teatures
are specifically tailorcd ro this purpose, Like thc deba and yaiiagiba, thc usaba
bhide is single-ground; that is, sharpened only on one sidc. Comparcd ro
other knives, however, che blade of rhe usuba is very rhm and broad; thc
word "usuba" rranslates, in fact, to "thin currmg cdge." This allows for
23
tmg through latge vegetables hke cabbage without the slices scattering apart
as tney are shrcdded, and it also makes it possible to pccl vegetables m long,
wide srnps. Most mportantly, the cutting edgc of the usuba is completely
straight, so ir ends up flush agamst rhc suracc of the board when slcing.
Unlike slcing with a Western knife, where the point is uscd as a
pivotand rhc edge gocs froni diagonal to horizontal through the course
of the cutthe usuba blade is kept parallel to the board throughout the
ctit. With the usuba, slicng is accomplished with a motion called utsu n
[apese: movmg the knife slightly toward the far side of the board while
cutting straight down. The werght o the blade accomplishes most of the
cut, while the shght movement to the far sidc of the board does the resr.
Professionals prefer to use a slightly hcavicr usuba for greater efficiency.
Usuba knives may be forgcd using eithcr the honyaki or awase mcthods,
and are shapcd m onc of two mam styles. The bigashigatci, devcloped m the
Kanro arca (around Tokyo), resembles a cleaver with its rectangular pro-
filc and squared-o corners. The katnagata usuba, which was developed in
the Kansai rea o Western Japan, has a rounded profilethe front of the
blade is not square, lke the higashigara, but curves gently down toward the
tip. Because it has a more opon pointed tip, the kamagata is bcrter suited
to detailcd tasks like kazan-giri decorative cutting. Both stv'les of usuba
havc a completely straight cutting cdgc. Whcther using a higashigata or
kamagata usuba, professional chcfs gencrally sclect blades between 8 and
10 inches (2124 cm) long. For non-professionals, a shorter blade (78
inchcs / 1821 cm long) is easier to handle.
The usuba's development s directly related to the important role
playcd by vegetables m Japanesc cuismc. Along with rice and rish, wild and
cultivated vegetables, as wcll as sea vegetables, forrn a significant part of
the traditional diet. Sbojin ryori, Japan's distinctive Zen vegetaran cuisinc,
carne mto being with the nse of Buddhism m rhc Muromachi Period. To
this day, vegetables are still a principal component of home-cooked meis
m fapan, which accounts for the cmcrgence and continued prevalence of
usuba kmvcs as tools used exclusively for dealing with thcm.
27
Making papcr-thm sheets
. :-.
Daikon and
Smoked Salmn Rolls
Two 4 n. (10 cm) lengths daikon radish, cut katSfsmua-Stf\Q into a Vi e in.
(2 mm) tnick sheet.
1 piece dried kombu kelp, about 2 in. (5 cm) square
2 stripsof smoked salmn, V? n. (1.5 cm) square and 4 in. (10cm)long
Marinada
1 cup (240 mi) water or dashi stock (recipe p. 34)
% cup (160 mi) rice vinegar
'/3 cup (80 mi) mirin
V? tsp. salt
Sauce
3 egg volks
1 tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tbsp. sugar
Pinch salt
'/; tsp. light soy sauce
31
Ken-cut zucchini
Ken-cut radish
Radishes can be cut into ken needle-
Strips in the same manner as daikon
radish and zucchini. The radish is first
peeledfcatsuramucj-style;the sheets
are then cut into fine strips. In the
first step, the narrow strip of red skin
gradually turns into a beautiful red-
edged ribbon as it is peeled away.
This ribbon can be a beautiful garnish
on its own, but the ken-cut strips also
make a gorgeous accent on a pate.
If the ribbon is placed n ice water
before it is cut into strips, the needles
will be crispen
32
Kcn-cut long onon
The mild and versatile Japanese scal-
lion called naganeg is often cut into
ken-strips. The long white sectton of
the onion has layers much like a leek
or green onion. Naganegi is eaten
raw, but because t can be tough and
fibrous it is often ken-cut, either along
or across the grain. Western leeks can
also be ken-cut in the same way.
Cut a 3-inch (8 crn) length from
the white part of the naganegi. Score
almost halfway through and remove
the greenish center core {this can be
reserved and sliced thinly to sprinkle
on top of food). Seprate and stack
the white layers, and thinly slice thern
along the grain to make thin strips.
These needle-thin white strips,
called shiraga-negi, are used as top-
pings on simmered dishes, as a gar-
nish for sashimi, and as a topping for
hot ramen noodles.
Ken-cut ginger
This technique is used by Japa-
nese chefs to cut shoga ginger into
extremely thin strips. Ken-cut ginger,
also called nan-shoga ("hari" means
"needle"), can be bundled together
for use as a garnish (see "Simmered
Eggplant and Chicken Breast" on
p. 43). Remove the skin frorn a knob
of ginger, then use the katsuramuki
technique to peel the ginger into a
thin sheet. The sheet can then be
cut along the grain ken-style to form
needle strips.
33
D A S H
I I hand-forgcd knives are .1 pillar o Japanese cuisine, ni an ice-cuhe tray, thcn place the frozen cubes in
dashi, thc Japancsc chef s ubiquitous cooking stock, is a scaled freczcr bag to be uscd as nccded. (Ice-cube
anothcr. Thcrc aro many vanations on dashi, from a trays n thc U.S. generally liold about }/K cup (30 mi}
simple umami-rich broth made only with kotnbu kclp of fluid per cube, luir it's best to conlirm the volumo
to elaborare vorstons contaimng severa! ingredients, bcfore using the froten daslii in a recipe.)
The most common dashi, howcvcr. is made with
8 in. (20 cm| length dried kombu kelp
kombu and kaisiw^ushi, fmely shaved flakes o dried
3cups('/i o. /10 q) katsuobushi bonito flakes, loosely packed
and smoked bonito. 3 cups (720 mi) water
A number of quick and easy dashi options are
ava la ble, mdudng instant powdcrcd dashi and Lightly wipe the surface of the kombu clean with a
ready-made dashi-packstcabag-typc sachis that damp lint-free cloth. Place the kombu n a mdium
saucepan, add water and allow to soak for at least
are placed m hor water and simmered with other 30 minutes. Place the saucepan over mediurn-low
ingredienrs. 1 hese can be round at many Asan gro- heat. When the liquid comes to a bare simmer
ccry stores. It is best, however, to make dashi from (small bubbles form on the sides and bottom of
the pan) and the kombu begins to rise to the top,
scratch, using high-quality dned kombu and katsuo-
turn off the heat and add the katsuobushi. Let
bushi shavings. (In fact, dashi purists insist on shav- steep uncovered for 1 or 2 minutes until the flakes
mt; theil own from [he dned block of fisli.) have sunk to the bottom of the pan. Strain through
This recipe m.ikcs about 2 cups (480 mi) oi dashi. a sieve lined with cheesecloth. The kornbu and kat-
suobushi can be discarded or used again to make
Dashi keeps ror a day or two if rcfrigeratcd; for lon- a less refined dashi. Use irnmediately, refrigrate,
ger penods, a good tnck is to freeze leftovcr dashi or freeze.
Needle-cut Vegetable
o Salad with Sesamc Dressing
o
Needle-cut vegetables, in addition to bcng a lovcly gar-
nish tor sasliimi, are Ourcat as a salad on their own. I'hs
sesamc dressing gocs wcll wirh such a salad.
34
<-K
.
Cabbage chiffonadc
half the cabbage is left. Cut away the thick core at the
12 oz. (320 g) thinlv sced beef |fur shabu-shabu]
base of each leaf, and stack the leaves up with the grain
1 mdium head cabbage
n the same direction. Chiffonade as described above,
cutting the leaves against the grain to make soft shreds,
Dressing
Crisp n ce water and drain well.
1 cup (240 m\}dashi stock (p. 34)
FUI a mdium pot with water and bring to 150-160"F
2 tbsp. and 1 tsp. rice vinegar
(65-70C) over mdium heat. Add the beef slices n a
2 tbsp. and 1 tsp. soy sauce
small batch. Stir gently with cooking chopsticks to pre-
1 tbsp. (3 g) katsuohtishi bonito flakes
vent the beef slices from sticking together. When the
surface of the slices turns from red to a slightly whitish
Combine all dressing ngredents in a stnall pan and pink (as shown n picture), rnmediately plunge them n
bring to a sirnmer. Remove from heat and pass through a ce water to stop cooking and drain.
fine-mesh sieve. Cool to room temperature and set aside. Roll the beef slices tightly and serve with the cab-
Take off cabbage leaves one at a time until about bage and dressing.
36
Sasagaki whittlini
Tbis shavtng tecbnique is used on long, fibrous vegetables
such as oro burdock roof, carrots. or cvcn asparagus. The
technique is slightly similar to sharpcmng a pencil or whit-
[ling a stick. More trian one Icngth can be shaved at a time if
thc piceos are placed side-by-side on the cutting board and
rollcd back and forth together wirb thc free hand whlc shav-
ing the tips.
Burdock root, shown m rhesc photos, is oiten cut
sasagaki-stylc for kimpira, a classic vegetable side
disb. Carrots and other long, thin vegetables
can be cut sasagaki-style as well; aspar-
agus is usett to make a kimpra
vanation in the recipe at thc
cnd o thc scction.
Cutting burdock root
sasagaki-styie
1. Use a brush to scrub the burdock
root under cold running water. Rinse
off any dirt. There is no need to peel
the root. Cut off both ends; if t s
long, cut t in half.
2. Make several shallow cuts down
the length of the root, so that shav-
ngs will come off easily.
3,4. Position the burdock horizon-
tally, holding it with the free hand.
Turn the cutting edge of the knife
away, and use the tip to begin shav-
ing the root while rotating t with the
left hand, a little like sharpening a
pencil. The cutting motion should be
very short and quick.
For thinner shavings, a very sharp
knife is needed. The angle of the
blade should be nearly horizontal,
and the cutting edge should just
graze the burdock root. Handle the
knife lightly. For thicker shavings, use
a little more pressure and a slightly
steeper blade angle.
5. Place the shavings n a bowl of
cold water before cooking to remove
harshness and to keep them frorn
discoloring.
39
Cutting asparagus
sasagaki-style
'10
V
Chasen~giri Tea-whisk Cut
The bamboo whisk uscd to whip powdert'd green tea and hot water tnto
froch during rhe tea ceremony is called a basen. Since cggplanr cut in this
stylc rcsembles a tea whisk, the cut became known as ebasen-giri. Used almost
exclusively on nasu Japancsc cggplant, chasen-giri serves two purposes- Not
only does it gve the cggplant an attractive appearance, but it also serves to
help the cggplant soak up the stock in which it is simmercd,
Herc the skin of the eggplant is scored at approximately 74 inch (6 mm)
mtervals. 1 he skin may also be scorcd at closer intervals, which crales a
beautiul effcct when cooked.
42
Simmered Eggplant and Chicken Breast
until cooked, about 3 minutes. Shock in ice water, drain
4 nasu (Japanese eggplant), cut chasen-giri-s\y\e
and lghtly squeeze out excess water. Set aside.
8 oz, (210 g) chicken breast, skin-on
Blanch the chicken pieces n boiling water for 15 sec-
1 in. (3 cm) knob of ginger. peeled
onds and shock in ice water. Drain, blot dry and set aside.
Vi bunch fresh spinach
Combine the dashi stock, soy sauce, sake and sugar
2 cups (480 mi) dashi stock [recipe p. 34)
n a mdium saucepan and bring to a sirnrner. Adjust the
2 2 /3tbsp. soy sauce
heat to mdium, add the chicken pieces and cook for 5
2 2 /3tbsp. sake
minutes. Add the eggplant. Cook, turning the chicken
2 tbsp. sugar
and eggplant occasionally, until they absorb the dashi
Vegetable oil )or deep-frying
mixture well. Place the spinach n a bundle at the side
of the pan and leave for about a minute to absorb the
Cut the chicken breast into bite-size pieces. Peel the dashi mixture. Remove, lightly squeeze out the liquid,
ginger and needle-cut across the grain (see p.33). and cut into 1-inch (3 cm) lengths.
Blanch the spinach n salted boiling water and shock in Place the eggplant on a serving pate, pinching the
ce water. Lightly squeeze out the water from the spin- tops gently to enhance their tea-whisk shape. Arrange
ach and set aside. the chicken pieces, spinach and ginger strips, and
Heat the oil to 340F (170Q. Deep-fry the eggplant spoon the dashi mixture over.
.i ;
Jahara-giri Serpent s Belly Cut
The jalara (serpent's bt-lly) cut is uscd almost exclusively for Japan's
long, slender kyuri cucumbcrs. This cutting rnethod makes the cucurnber
malleable hkc an accordion, and tenderzes che flesh witlioui afectmg tne
cucumbcr's cnspncss and succulence. Some people Iike to parnally skm the
cucumber (as seen m ilie lower photo above) to add visual and textura!
intcrest. Besdes beng attractivc, cucumbcrs cut m this way hold flavurn.il
dressings and marinados wcll. The recipe at the end o the seccin uses
,1 vnegar-based marinade to make a classic sunomotio, Jabara-cut cucumber
also makes a lovely garnish to complemcnt grilled dishes.
In executing this technique, ir's important never to cut more than half-
way mto the cucumber. A good way to control the blade is to hold it at an
angle wifh the tp downwaiv). l'lie np of the knifebut nevcr the hccl
stays n contact with fhe cutting board as the bladc moves down the lenglh
of the cucumber.
44
Cutting a cucumber
O
jabara-giri-sty\e
1. The skin at the end of the cucumber
where the stalk was attached usually
has a bitter taste. It's best to remove
both the stem end of the cucumber
and the skin that surrounds it.
2, 3, 4. Cut off the stern end of the
cucumber. Position the cucumber
so the cut end is under the free hand
at the base of the thumb. Place the
knife tip under the cucumber wrth the
blade towards you and cut into the
skin. Flatten the angle of the knife
slightly. With the free hand, gently
roll the cucumber backward. Without
changing position, move the knife
along with it, keeping steady pres-
sure against the cucumber to cut
away the skin. Remove the skin all the
way around the cucumber, making a
slightly beveled edge.
5, (>. To improve texture and appear-
ance, some cooks like to peel strips
of skin down the length of the cucum-
ber, creating alternating green and
white stripes.
1!)
7, 8, 9. Place the cucumber on the
cuttng board. Try to find a place
where it won't roll. Begin making
diagonal cuts at narrow, regular inter-
vals, being careful not to cut more
than halfway through the cucumber,
A good way to control the depth of
the cut is to raise the heel of the knife
slightly and keep the tip n contact
with the cutting board as you cut.
To make the cuts more regular, curl
the ndex finger of thefree hand and
press the fingertip joint aganst the
side of the blade. Use this pressure to
guide the knife and control the spac-
ng of the cuts.
Carefully turn the cucumber end
over end and place with the uncut
side facing up. Repeat the process,
making opposing diagonal cuts half-
way through the cucumber on the
reverse side.
47
K.azari~giri
Decorative Vegetable Garvn1
Sincc Japanese chefs consider the appearance of food to be as important
as its flavor, it's not surprismg that kazari-giri, decorativo airting, has an
essential place in tlic culinary tradition. On a basic leve!, cutting always
crcatcs dccorativc shapcsfrom perfecr thin squares and hexagonal slices
to rhc bcvclcd edges or cylinder-cut vegetables, Kay.an-gin, however, also
rcfcrs lo more hinciiul lechmqm-s or cutting vegetables in the shape of
vanous flowers and other tems such as fans. Ume-giri, one of the simples:
of (hese ciirs, is demonstraifd here. Short lengths of carrot and daikon are
ciu mo si ices snaped likc ime plum blossoms, which are a symbol of carly
spnng. Any hrm vegetable, such as potato, radish, or jicama, can be carvcd
in this way.
Cutting a carrot
ume~giri stylc
4! i
9, 10. From the high point (crner
of the pentagon) make a curved
cut downward and away frorn you
to reach the bottom of the incisin.
Repeat four times, rounding off the
leading edges of five petis.
11, 12. Turn the carrot end-over-end
and round the petis frorn the other
side.
Continu to turn the carrot end-
over-end, cleaning up the surface to
define the shape of the petis better.
cut .cut
cut
50
Vegetable Canaps
A vanety of ingrediente can be used to rnake these
attractivc canaps. Those shown on the left pate, frorn
top to bottom, mcludc the following:
51
THE DEBA
52
T he deba knife was originally developed and forged in Sakai, the
port town near Osaka. Some of thc oarliest knivcs made there were
dcsgncd for cuttmg tobceo, and thcy wcrc so wcll suitcd to thc task that
the Edo feudal govcrnmem o i f i c i a l l y recogniz.cd thcir quality. 1 hcrcaftcr,
knives inade n the rea received the appellaton Sakat kiwami, and became a
sought-after brand.
Thc deba is mainly uscd for clcamng and filletmg nsh and drcssmg
poultry and other meats. The most notable fcaturc of this knfc is thc
heaviness added by the wide spinc. This lends the srabilky and extra hcft
needed to cut through tough jonts and thick bones with ease. I lie hcel of
rhc blade is uscd for choppmg and cuttmg through bones. When
extra forc is nccdcd, thc fist of thc frcc hand may be used
to push down on thc spine ncar the handle.
Certain of the cjeba's features make it ideal for filletmg. I-or example,
the width and steep angle of the kiriba blade path allow the knife to slice
smoothly through rhc flcsh without sticking, even though the blade is very
broad. Thc shapc of thc kissaki tip, which curves toward thc apcx of thc
bladc, is also miportant. The thick spine of thc deba gradually bccomcs
thmner toward the up, allowmg a great deal of (recdom n manipulatmg the
blade. Thc pointcd kissaki also adds sensitvity dunng filletmg; for example,
it is possiblc to fccl thc kissaki touching thc bones, and hear the tic-tic-
tic sound madc as the knife is drawn across thcm. Idcally, the entire
bladc should be used wlien filletmg, but thc arca from the cen-
ter to the tip is particularly important for this task.
The heavy blade requires a handle wich sume heft to match, so the
wooden handle is relatively large, crcanng a good balance. It is important
to kecp a firm and stable gnp whcn domg heavy work with the deba, so
take a few inoments to fnd the correct balance when handling the blade.
The center of gravity should be on the bottom cdgc of the blade, not
toward thc kssaki tip,
This knifc comes m scvcral diffcrcnt varictics. Thc standard deba, or
hon-deba, is an all-around heavy-duty dresstng and filleting knie. A popular
variation, tlie mioroshi deba, {literally, "filleting deba"), has a thnner blade
and a narrower tip than a standard deba. It is not meant to cut through
tough boncs. but is for cuttmg a fdlct mro pcccs.
Thc ai-deba is thinner and lighter than a hon-deba, but more substantial
than a mioroshi deba. The ai-deba is not sanable for cuiting through the
hard bones of large fish, but can be used for dressmg medium-sized fish
with softer boncs such as saba mackercl. It is also vrcll suited for filleting.
"Ai" means "both"; thc ai-dcba functions both as a cutting and filleting
km fe.
The ko-Aa or small deba is often used to fillet smaller fish such as aj
horse mackercl, and it is sometimcs callcd callcd aji-deba, or aji-kiri. Thc
aji-deba is cspccially common m arcas ncar thc sea, whcrc aj is prcpared by
butterflymg and partially dryng the flcsh. The aji-deba is also useful for
filleting sm,ill freshwater fish such as ranbow trout.
Regardless of the particular type, awase-forged deba are generally pref-
erable lo honyaki-forgcd blades. Becausc of thc heavy dcmands madc on
thc deba m choppmg and cutting through tough materials, thc flcxibiliiy
and rcsistancc to chippmg offercd by an awase-forged knife is most desir-
able. For professionals, a standard deba about 9-!/2 inches (24 cm) long is
best. For home cooks, about 8 inches {21 cm) is an ideal length.
54
I
Lateral Lne
Mizuarai
In filletmg any fish, thc first stcp is thc clcamng proccdurc or mizurarai,
vvhich literally means "washing with water." Mizuarai mcludes scaling the
fish, removing the gills, removing the interna! organs, and, i desircd, cut-
ting of the head. It is of course a given that the knie should always be
sharp, but guttmg is particularly cumbersome with a dull blade.
It is ideal to use a threc percent saltwater solution (the same salmity as sea
water) to wash thc fish aftcr gutting, as chis maintams the texture and flavor
of thc flesh. Howcvcr, tap water is also acccptablc. Prepare thc sale water
befbre begmnmg thc mzuanii proccss by mixng a galln (4 L) of cold water
with % cup (120 g) salt. Have a seprate basin ready for washing thc fish.
The fish will be washed twice, so don't use all thc saltwater thc first time.
55
It is helphil to understand thc anatomy of a fish (page 55, photo 1 1 on page
57, and P'ige 150} befte gutting. For example, both ends of the gills are firmly
attached to the body, and must be cut at each attachmcnt. It is important not to
pune tu re or cur the interna! organs when clcaning thc fsh, as bittcr fluids may
sccp out and ruin thc flavor of thc fsh. In addition, the intcrnal organs, espe-
cially the liver, .ir a delicacy; they are prepared in a vanety of ways depending
on ihc type of fsh. Cured or marinatcd organs are called cktttmi, which means
"rarefied flavor." Japancsc cooks ha te to waste cven a littlc bit of mcat, so thcy
use thc cntirc fsh, from head to tail, cutring it carcfully and accuratcly into
seprate componcnts and preparmg each part accordingly.
It is best lo carry out the mizuarai cleanini; procedure next to a sink so the
knie and cuttmg board can be kept clean during this proccss. Most profcssion-
als keep a couple of damp kitchen cloths cise by to \vipe down thc knfc and
board aftcr each stcp is cotnpleted. A brass uroko scaler is useful for hard-scaled
fsh likc sea brcam, though thc serratcd cdge of a bottle cap may be used in a
pinch. Smce hard-scaled fsh are messy to scale, it's a good idea to do it inside a
Urge plstic trash bag.
Scaling
56
3. Don't neglect reas that are easy
to miss, such as around the mouth
and fins.
4, 5. To ensure that scaling is com-
plete, run the tip or heel of the deba
over the fish to caten any stray scales.
Wash the fish n a basin of sal water or
under cold running water to rinse off
any debris. Blot thoroughly to dry.
57
Cutting the gills at the base
of the skull
12,13. Pul the gills aside slightly to
make way for the knife. Inser the
knife deep nto the head and cut
the gills at the upper attachment
(A). (Photo 13 clearly shows the base
of the skull where the gills were
attached.)
60
Cuttng the head n half
In order to clearly show the position
of the knife, this technique s shown
with the fish head already cut n half.
As noted below, exercise caution
when holding the head with the left
hand to avoid getting cut. One good
trick for getting a secure grip on the
head s grasp it with a clean terry-
cloth towel.
l
9,10. Each haf of the head s divided
rito five pieces, as shown n photo 10.
The head has hard bones and jonts
that are difficult to pentrate- Use the
heel of the knife to get through them.
Holding the knife firmly, add extra
forc by pushing on the spine of the
blade with fist of the free hand.
62
Sanma Oroshi Three-piece Filletin
PART
Sanmai orosh (cutting into three pieces) yields two fillcrs and the skeleton.
This is a basc, yct versatile, techniquc for fillcting fish.Though ir may takc
somc practico, using a single bladc to fillct the fish results m beautifilly
clean fillets with minimal wasted flesh. In the West, the knives used for
filleting are flexible, and bend around thc bonos. In filleting with a deba
knife, wlnch is rlnck and heavy, it is vital to control tlie angle of the blade
and to slice the flesh away from the bones m wide sweepmg strokes, using
the entire blade. Don't use a sawing motion or limit slicing to the tip of
the knife. The spine of a fsh is lozcngc-shaped, not fat, and the ribs are
curvcd. The flesh s cut away most efhcicntly by angling fhc cntirc knife
along these surfaces m smooth, sweeping cuts.
64
O
fib
Cutting the first fillet from
the b.ick side
5. Turn the fish 180 degrees, so the
dorsal fin s facing you and the tail is
on the rght.
66
10. Inser the tip of the knife with the
blade facing the tail to make a space
for the knife along the spine, but do
not cut the fillet away from the tail
yet. Remove the knife and turn it to
face the other way.
67
Cutting rhe sccond fillct
from rhe back side
18. For the second fillet, start from
the back side. Place the fish diago-
nally with the dorsal fin facing you
and the tail on the lower left.
69
Rcmovng thc bclly bonos
and storina
& tlic hllcts
30. Using the tip of the knife with the
blade facing up, cut the ends of the
belly bones frorn the flesh. Steady
the knife by making a V shape with
the ndex fingen and thumb of the
left hand and placing the spine of the
knife n that V. This helps push the
knife up and along the belly bones.
70
Sanmai Oroshi Three-piece Filletin
PART 2
I:or practicing your sanmai oroshi technique, It s best to start with fish that
have soft scales and bones, such as saba mackerel (shown hcre) or sawara
Spanish mackerel. There is no need to worry about scaling with an ufokohik
brass scale-removcr or rcmovmg gills and hard tins. AIso. mackerel, with
thcr long, slcndcr bodics, produce thck filiis that can be cut fairly quickly.
Sonic chcrs red that it is mmortant not to dnmage the tender flesh oi son
fish likc mackerel, and are careful or to tnrn them during flleting. This is
the technique shown here. Others follow the same sanmai oroshi process as
for tai sea bream, turning the fish over afier the first flllet is removed.
1 he followmg steps mclude a simplifed mizuarai process for scaling and
gutting the fish. This mizuarai can be done m the sink, as soft-scaled fish
are less messy to scalc and gut than hard-scaled fish likc ai sea bream.
Mizuarai
Before beginning, prepare a 3% salt
water solution by mixing a galln (4 L)
water with % cup (120 g) salt.
.'
Cutting the second fllet
from the belly sde
15. Position the fish so that the tail is
to the left, with the skin side down,
16, 17. Extending the ndex finger
along the spne of the knife for sta-
bility, use a drawing motion to slice
between the rib bones and flesh frorn
head to tail. This cut should start from
the middle par of the knife blade and
end at the tip of the knife.
Cutting
o
the second fllct
from the back side
18, 19. Switch the fish so the tail s
on your right. Using the entire blade
from heel to tip, slice the flesh away
from the rib bones. Work from the tail
to the head end, holding the ribcage
open, to make this deep cut.
/b
Vincgared Mackerel
liquid, but penetrales the flesh of the fish and makes it
2 macksrel (liis salty}. Let the fillets stand at room temperature until the
'/2 cup (100 9) granulated sugar excess liquid is absorbed (usually about 40 minutes for
'A cup (50 fl) aalt a 12-nch/30 cm mackerel fillet)- Rinse in cold water and
Aboul 2 cups (480 mi) rice vinegar blot dry thoroughly.
Place on a fat mesh sieve and sprinkle generously
with salt (this step absorbs additional liquid while add-
* Saba mackerel or sawara Spanish mackerel rnay
ing saltiness). Let stand for one nour. Rinse n cold water
be most commonly available, but a; horse mackerel
and blot dry.
works well too. Curing and marinating times should be
Place the fillets n a non-reactive container, pour the
adjusted depending on the size and fat content of the
rice vinegar to cover a little over halfway, and cover with
fish {.e-, longer for larger or fattier fish).
a kitchen towel to keep the vinegar from evaporating.
Place the fillets skin-side down on a fat mesh sieve, Leave until the surface of the fillets turns slightly white,
such as the takezaru bamboo sieve shown here, and usually about 20 minutes.
dust liberally with sugar. Sugar absorbs the excess liquid Remove from the vinegar and gently pat dry with
from the fish, removing strong odors without imparting paper towels. Do not rinse. To prepare as sashimi, see
flavor (salt, which has smaller molecules, also removes p. li.
76
Daimyo Oroshi Straight Filletin
Daimyo oroshi is ,1 fastcr tcchnique rhan santnai oroshi. Rathcr th;m tafcing
rho fonr stcps required for sanmai oroshicutting from the belly and
from thc back on each sidr-dannyo oroshi rcmoves rlic flesh 111 ;i single
cut I rom head lo tail on oacli sidc. Of coursc, tlus method Icavcs more flesh
on thc bonc. Dinfiyo, che tendal lords o od Japan, wcrc considercd cxtrav-
agant, so rhis cur, whch is more wastefiJ than sanmai oroshi, is namcd
aftcr them.
I ),iimvo oroshi is uscd ni prepanng small or slender
tish such as iwashi sardines (shown hete), aj horse
mackcrol, small mackcrcl. santrta Pacific
saury, or I'H [apese whiting.
1, 2. The same simplified mizuarai
process outlined for mackerel on p.
73 can be used to clean smaller fish.
Use the tip of the deba to gently
scrape off the scales, rnoving from the
tail to the head. Rinse under cold run-
ning water to remove any stray scales.
3. Take off the head with a single
diagonal cut running just behind the
pectoral fin.
4, 5. For small fish like sardines, there
is no need to leave the belly intact; it
is mostly skin with little meat under-
neath. To remove the innards, cut on
the diagonal to take a wedge from
the underside of the fish (photo 4).
Remove any remaining bits with the
tip of the knife or the little fingen
Use a fingernail to rernove the
blood line that runs along the under-
side of the spine. Rinse the fish in salt
water and blot dry inside and out.
79
6. Position the fish so that the head
end s on the right, belly facing you.
2 slices cheddar or ather sharp cheese fer the fillets skin-side down onto an oven sheet lined
1 cgg yolk, lightly beaten with aluminurn foil. Place a slce of cheddar cheese on
top of each fillet and broil until the cheese rnelts shghtly.
Other fish recommendations: squid, kisu Japanese whiting, sayn Remove the fillets from the broilerstill on the oven
Japancse halfbeak sheetand baste with beaten egg yolk. Return to the
broiler until the egg-yolk glaze is dry. Repeat the basting
and broling process twice more. (This allows the protein
Lightly sprinkle the fillets with sea salt and leave for 10 n the egg yolk to coaglate and makes a bright yellow
minutes. Rinse in cold water and blot dry. Preheat a grill glaze on the fillets and cheese.) Serve mmediately.
or grill pan. Place the fillets skin-side down and grll for
Hiraki Butterflyiri
There are innumerable ways of prcparmg fish m Japan. One of thc most
popular is to make kimonosemi-dricd flsh, cured witb salt. that are broilcd
or gnlled over hot coals. Hiraki, or bulterflymg, is the way Kimono are pre-
pared before cunng. This method keeps rhe fish m a single piece while
openng the mximum possiblc surface rea for dryng.
Tsubonuki is a method for rcmovmg rhe gills and innards rhrough thc gil
covcr wirh a pair of disposablc chopsticks.This rcchniquc is uscc for small
or mdium fish such as mjimasu rambow trout (shown hcrc), hoklte Atka
mackerel, mebaru rockfish and ayu swcctfish. Ir is particularly uscful when
the head is to be kept on durng cooking.
Il is important to note that the tstibonuki ^uttmg tcchniqiie can only
be used on very fresh fish. If the fish s too od, the interna] organs soften
and break very casily, and cannot be pulled out with chopsticks.
82
Gutting va the gil cover
(Tsubonukt)
1. Scale the fish from tail to head as
in the shortened mizuarai process on
p. 73.
Buttcrflyng
6. Position the fish diagonally with
the tail to the upper right, the dorsal
spine facing you, and the head to the
lower left.
7, 8. Make a single cut along the
centerline of the fish just to the upper
side of the dorsal fin. Use the entire
length of the blade to slice open the
fish along the back from tail to head.
Be extremely careful not to cut too far
ond slice into the belly of the fish.
9. Reposition the fish so t s belly-
down, with the head facing you. Raise
the handle of the knife so t is nearly
vertical and place the tip against the
back of the head. Use just enough
downward pressure to cut through
the top of the head, stopping when
the blade reaches the tongue.
:
10. The fish can now be opened com-
pletely so that t lies fat.
fillets
90
2K, 29. Turn the fish so that the head
is toward you and the tail is facing
away, positioning it so it will be easy
to cut the second fillet starting at the
tail end. Insert the tip of the knife
at the crner closest to the spine.
As before, slice the flesh away from
the bones along the spine toward
the head end, using gradually larger
sweepng cuts. Gently lifting the flesh
to expose the next place to be cut,
use the entire length of the knife and
very little pressure.
92
claws
Preparing Crab
In Japan, as in many othcr countries, crustaccans such as crab, shrimp, and
lobsrcr are considcrcd dclicacics. The Japanesc prepare crab m a varcty of
ways, boiling if in itabetnono (hot pot), quick-simmenng in sbabu-shabu, or
gning it n the sbell with sake dnzzled over thc top. Skilled Japanese chefs
use the deba, not scissors, ro den and delcately seprate whole crabs that
can weigh more than two pounds.
This scction features the zuwai-gaui, or snow crab, which is m scason
dunng the winter months. The first step is to prepare plenty ot boiling
saltcd water (1 hcaping tcaspoon of salt per 2 quarts/2 L water) to cook
the crab. I.ower thc crab into the cooking w,m-t slicll-.side down, [o pre-
vcnt the inn;irds from leaking out dunng coolting. If the body of the crab
(without the legs) is around eight inches (20 cm) wide, bol for 10 to 15
minutes. 11 it is much smallcr, five minutes will do. Cool the crab com-
plctely before begmning to takc t apart,
<H
Retnovingo claws and legs
o
<Jb
Separating the body from
body
tlie shell
97
Opcning thc claws
and the shells from the legs. Discard the papery cas-
1 bniled vuhnlc crab, aboul 11bs. (900 g)
ngs from the body of the crab. Combine the shells,
3'/2 tbsp. water
water, vinegar, soy sauce and granulated sugar in a non-
1 tbsp. rice vinegar
reactive saucepan. Bring to a slmmer, then mmediately
1 tbsp. soy sauce (preferably lght type|
remove from the heat. Let the liquid cool to room tern-
'/? tbsp granulated sugar
perature, then strain.
1 buncb arugula, wasbed and trimmed
If using the carapace shell as a serving dish, rinse and
blot dry. Place the arugula, crabmeat, eggs and innards
Cut the crab into peces and remove the meat, eggs n the shell. Arrange the vinegar dressing in a small cup
and nnards from body and legs. Reserve the carapace on the side.
THE YANAGIBA
100
T he yanagiba is a long, slcndcr knife used mainly co slice sashimi.
Because of the length of thc blade, vcry ltele prcssurc is nccdcd
when drawing it smoorhly from heel to tip through thc fish. Profcssional
chcfs use blades nearly 14 inches (36 cm) in lengthnearly as long as a
small swordbut thcy are skillcd at using thc cntire length, and also have
ampie room to work. l'or thc homc chcf, a blade about 12 inches {30 cm)
long is more than adequate.
Japanese chefs have a huge range of cutting techmques at their disposal
to enhancc the flavor, texture and appearance of che food they are prepar-
ing. This is espccially clear wirh sashmi, whcrc thc typc of fish bemg shced
may determine which cutting techmquc should be uscd. (This is explamcd
in further detail in the sashimi section on page 106.) In some cases, more
than one curting style is applied to a particular fish to highhght differenr
tcxturcs; toro fatty tuna bclly, for cxamplc, may be cut into thick slices to
emphasixe its satisfymg nchness, and thm slices fhat bring out its cxqmsitc
meltinno texture. Served aloncrside
o
each other, tlie difieren! cuts contrast thc
outstanding qualities for which toro is pnzed,
The yanagiba is never pushed, but is rather drawn or pulled (in Japiine.se,
thc phrase for cutting sashimi is "stuirimi wo hiku"biku being the verb "to
pul"). In thcory, the longcr the knife, the less stress is put on the flesh.
Many vanations on the yanagiba have been developed to cut specihc
kinds of seafood nto sashimi. For cxample, thcjugubiki is used to sliccjwn
blowflsli. It functions in much thc same way as thc yanagiba, but thc blade
and ihickness of the spine are much thmner to facilitate slcing the clastic
Yanagba, 11.7 inches (300 mm).
Honyaki, shirogsmi steel, mirror- flesh of this fish nlo paper-thin slices.
finish. KokuTan cbony handle wh
a silverband. (Hiyoshmaru] Another sashim knife called tlie iakohiki is used mainly in the Kanto arca
101
of castern Japan. This square-tipped knife has A straight sbinogi line and
cuttmg edgc. According to legend, in thc Edo era, chcfs who had to slicc
sashimi in ront of nobles were reprimanded for pointng thc sharp tip of
thc sword-hke yanagiba at thcir bettcrs, so thc chcrs began having knives
made without a pointcd tip. Rcgardless of thc truth to this story, the
straght cuttmg edge and squared-off tip of the takohiki are wcll-suitcd
for cntting lood tnto even squares. Still, this knifc is rarcly uscd outside of
K a n t o today; most chcfs use a yanagiba to slicc saslumi as rhc tip comes rn
handy for precisin work.
Thc yanagiba is uscd for skinnmg as well as slicing. In Japanese cuisinc,
whcn fish are grilled, simmered, or sauted the skin is gcncrally left on and
c a l e n , f - o r sashimi, however, the skin is removed in most cases, which gives
the fish a fmer texturc. Jn somc fish, likc sea brcam, a beautiful red paltern
is revcalcd on thc flesh whcn the skin is removed. Fish in the yellowiail
family are similar: in the winter, when they are at ther peak, a paper-thin
layer of white fat, like a dusting of snow, remams after thc skin is removed.
Natural giiis likc thcsc can be a bcautiful acccnt in a sishimi arrangcmcnt.
a
I nv
Skiinnin
Tbc skin may be removed from filiis scartmg either from the left or the
Hght cnd. If starting from the left, the bladc should face to the rtght as the
skin is pulled off, and vice versa. Regardless of dircction, the skin should
be removed from tail to head end.
The fillct s placed skin-side down, with che head cur end m the direc-
cin to be skinned. The irst stcp is to cut a "gnp"a small piccc of flesh
to hold securely as the skin is pulled aw;ty. THc kmfe should cut bctwcen
skin and flesh m a sliding motion as the skin streCches in the opposte
direccin. Don'c worry about cutting though the skin by mistake; simply
start over from that pomt.
^B^
103
Removing the skn from left
to riglit
104
Removing the skin from
nght to left
9. Place the fillet skin-side down, with
the tail end on the right. Angle the
blade slightly to the right, then use
the tip of the knife to make a small
cut approximately '/> nch (1 cm) from
the tail. Stop just above the skin. Do
ira not cut all the way through the fillet.
ior>
I M I
Sashimi is simply thinly sliced raw seafood served
with diffcrcnt frcsh vegetable garmshcs and accents,
ground wasabi, and a small dish of soy sauce for dip-
pmg. The delicate mtcrplay of flavors and rexturcs
and thc sbele diffrences in the taste of a given type
of fish from season to season have elevated sashiim
to an lite position among gourmets. Yct it is also
hugely popular among rhc masscs in Japan; cooks
iTgularly buy fresh fish in the supermarker ro slice
and serve as sashirni at home. Indeed, there are few
better ways to appreciate a really fresh fish than to
cat it as sashimi.
A rangc of cutting technques and variations
may be used lo bring out the best flavor, t ex ture and
appearance. The two most basic techniques are called
scgtzuituri {also called sogigiri) and himzukitri. Sogizukun
is uscd to slicc fish fairly thin, improving the texture;
most typcs of fish are sliccd sogizukun-style for
sushi. I : isb with toughcr tlcsh such as^i^ii blowfish
are shccd extrcmcly tlnn using a sogizukuri vanation
called usuzukuri. Since this technique reqmres the
flesh to be cnl i n t o u n i o r n paper-thm slces, it is
not easy, bnt a sharp k n i l e helps a great deal. Lastly,
relatively fatty or soft-fleshed ish such as tuna and
ai sea bream are oftcn cut hirazukuri-stvle, ni which
106
the flesh is cut into thick slices to deliver a substan-
tial, satisfying mouthful.
'I Iierc are also various ways to tcndcrize and
tmprovc the texture of chewy seafood like squi'd, or
fish with a tough exterior like mackerel. Some of
tnem nave poetic ames: matsukasa-giri, for example,
means "pme-cone cut," smce the scored surface of
the flesh resemblcs a pinc conc; kanoko-giri, spotted-
fawn cut, tecalis the markmgs of a baby deer. In the
case of mackerel, even when the skm is removed, a
silvery, shghtly hard surface remains. Yaezukuri, or
"doubled cut," is used to score this surface, makmg
the ftsh eastcr to chcw.
The arrangement of sashimi on the pate is based
on the ancient Chnese concept ot Yin-Yang, which
expresses the mterdependence of opposmg forces in
the natural worki The round
o
cdge
c>
of the kmfe is
consdered yang; the oppositc sidc is yin. Fish shced
kirazukuri style on the yang side are prcsented on a
SLjiare or rectangular ym-style piale, while hsh shced
with the sogigiri or usuzukuri technique on the yin side
are placed on a circular yang-stylc pate. The shccs
are always arranged in odd-numbercd groupmgs.
Whcn prcscnting sashimi, the slices and garnish
can be arranged to echo the natural scenery of a tra-
ditional mountain-nver paintmg. Choose whcrc you
want the "fronr" of the pate to be. regardlcss of its
shape, and tnake a mountan of tan-cut daikon rad-
ish on the far sde. Then lay a shiso leaf, if you have
one, aganst the side of the "mountan," and place
the sashimi slices, overlappmg and standmg up as
much as possible, to flow away from the mountan
and around the pate. Eclible garnishcs such as wasabi
leaves, warabi fern, purplc shiso flowers, or shiso buds
can be addcd to the arrangement as shown in the
photographs. A mound of ground wasab is always
placed on the right-hand side of the pate so that
it can be easily reached with chopsticks held m the
nglu hand.
108
. -,
rr
^
WM./J
Sogizukuri Sliciii
This fairly thin cut is good for slighrly tough or fibrous fish, as ir makcs
che flcsh softcr and easicr to chcw. Thc thickricss of rhc sogizttkuri (also
called sogigiri) sashinii slices is adjustcd dcpcndmg on rhc kind of fish.
With sogizukuri rhc anglc of rhc km fe can be adjustcd to maximizc rhc arca
of cach piccc, incrcasmg yicld.
This technique makes ir clc.ir why Japanese say hiku, "to pul," instead
of "to fiit" whcn slicing sashimi. 1 he bl.idc ncver pushes or <.~uts, but is
rather drawn smoothly back wirhout any addt-d pressurc.
I 10
1. Position the fillet with the skinned
side down and the narrower end to
the left.
1 11
Hirazukuri Slicin
This relatively thick cut is commonly used for softer, less fibrous fsh.
Usually, the lillet is positioned with the head end on the righl and the
tail to the left, so that the thinnest part of the fillet faces the front of the
board. It's best to place the fllct at the front edge of the curting board.
Thc frcc spacc is necdcd to accommodatc the length of the bladc as it is
drawn through thc fllet from hccl to tip. If thc fllct s in rhc ccntcr of rhc
board, thc knifc handlc will gct in thc way. It's important ro use rhc cnUrc
length of thc bladc for this technique.
112
Hirazukuri
1. Lay the fillet at the front edge of
the cutting board, skin-side up, tail
end to the left.
2. Extend the ndex finger along the
knife spine to control the pressure,
direction and stability of the cut.
Wrap the thumb and other fingers
around the handle. Place the heel of
the knife at a slight angle just in front
of the edge of the fillet. The thickness
of the cut s determined by the place-
ment of the blade (here, the fillet is
sliced into 1/i inch/ cm thick pieces).
3. 4. Drop the tip to about 45 to
touch the fillet, then draw the knife
toward you lightly, keeping the blade
in constant contact with the fish and
keeping the pressure consistent. As
you pul the knife, imagine that you
are describing a short are with the
tip. The blade should remain com-
pletely perpendicular to the board.
The pivot point of the cut moves from
the heel to the tip of the blade as t
slices through the fillet; it is always at
the point where the knife blade and
the fillet meet. The drawing motion
should be completed n a single rapid
motion, cutting the fibers of the flesh
cleanly. This will give the sashimi a
glossy appearance.
5. When the cut is completed, draw
the knife nearly to the tip and give it
another brief tug to make sure that
the piece s cut through completely.
6. Without taking the knife away from
the cut piece, move the slice off to
the nght side of the cutting board,
keeping the blade in contact with the
board. If the slices are cut very thin,
or the fish s flaky, leave the pieces
undisturbed and continu cutting.
113
Usuzukuri Slicin
This technique is used for fish with frm, elastic flesh, such as fugit blowfish
or freshwatcr fish, and for chlllcd hsh. The rcchniquc is basically the same
as soffzukuri (pagc I 1U), but the flesh is cut paper-thin,The blade should be
visible through the flesh while slicing.
Matching food to tableware is un important element o) [apese cni-
sine. Since the thin slices of usuzukuri are transculent, a pate wtth a beauti-
ful color or partern lets gucsts enjoy the combined effect. It's also wise to
prepare the sashim mmcdiatcly bcfore scrving, so the delicatc sliccs don't
drv out.
114
Use the basic sogizukuri technique
(p.110} for usuzukuri slicing, but make
the slices much thinnerno more
than Vi inch (1 mm) wide. The blade
should be visible through the flesh as
you cut. The fish in these photos is a
hrame fluke.
1. Holding the end of the slice
between thumb and ndex finger,
immediately transfer t to the pate.
Place one end near the rim of the
pate and use the tip of the knife to
lightly guide and position the other
end toward the center of the pate.
The pate shown, which s 8 inches
(20 cm) n diameter (excluding rim)
accommodated eleven usuzukuri
slices. For larger amounts of fish, use
a platter, arranging the slices like
overlapping petis.
115
Yaezukuri Doubled Cut
Yaezukuri is a hirazukuri technique used on fsh that have a shgbtly tough
skm or surfacc, such as sawara Spanish mackcrcl, ai sea bream, or kasuo
bonito. (Yac rcfcrs to somcthing doublcd or multilayered; for example, yae-
zakura are double-petaled cherry blossoms.) Yaezukuri is most commonly
used on vmegared mackerel (page 76), as shown here. Because each prece
of fsh is scored across the top in botb directions, the tough par is casicr
to cnew.
110
Removing pin bones and skin
1,2. Prepare filiis ofvinegared
mackerel {see p. 76). Place one fillet
skin-side down and slice out the belly
bones as shown on p. 70.
3. Most fish fillets will have a few
tough pin bones around the head
end. They are embedded deeply into
the flesh. Press the flesh slightly with
the fingers to find the buned bones,
and rernove them with flat-tipped
twcczcrs
4. Remove the other pin bones. The
bones lie in the flesh at an angle from
tail to head. To remove, pul them out
at the same angle (toward the tail) so
as not to tear the flesh.
5. Turn the fish skin-side up. Grasp
the thin skin at the head end and peel
it back across the body from head to
the tail. Pul it off evenly and slowly,
keeping the hand cise to the fillet so
that the skin is less likely to tear.
Scoring
o
117
Matsukasa-giri Pine-cone Cut
Kanoko-giri Spotted-fawn Cut
Naruto~giri Spiral Cut
118
Matsukasa-giri
1. Place a rectangular strip of
cleaned squid diagonally on the
cuttng board.
i I!)
Kanoko-giri
1. Place a rectangular strip of cleaned
squid diagonally on the cutting
board.
2. I l.iHiri'i Hit- blade straighl up j t u J
down (perpendicular to the surface),
draw the knife toward you to score on
the bias. Start at the right edge and
rnove toward the left.
i/n
Naruto-giri
1, 2. Trim the cleaned squid into a
rough square. Turn 90" so that the
trimmed edge is at the top with the
skinned sde up so that the flesh will
be cut along the grain.
3. Gently draw the knife across the
surface from top to bottom to score
the flesh at Va-inch (3 rmm) ntervals.
Move from right to left, taking care
not to cut more than halfway through
the flesh. Try to rnake the depth of the
cuts even by keeping the contact of
the blade against the flesh consistent.
4. Turn the squid over. Arrange the
shf'so leaves on top, cutting them f
necessary to fit the squid.
5. Roll the shiso and squid together,
making sure that the score marks run
lengthwise on the outside of the roll.
6. Positon the roll seam-down and
slice into rounds of any thickness
desired.
21
A Knife for Every Function
T he depth and variety of (apese cuismc is reflected
in the specialty knivcs its masters use. Each of
thcsc knives was dcvclopcd for rhc sol purposc of pre-
5. Stistikiri
The curved, double-ground edge of this knife is ideal for cutting
rolled or pressed sushi. The tip is inserted first, and then pressure is
put on the liccl whilc curcing to utili/e the curve of the bladc.
paring a spccific Japancsc specialty: sushi, gnllcd eel, hamo 9.6 nches (240 mm), honyak, Yasuki shirogam steel, black water
buffalo-horn collar, honok wood handle
pike congcr and soba buckwheat noodles, to ame a few.
Shown here is the rangc of knives available from
6. fuguhiki
Kiya, a famous knife retailcr in Japan. For definitions o The Mude of rhis knife is sleek, thin, and lighr, designed for slic-
the terms uscd in the descriptions, refcr ro the glossary ing/gn, or blowfish. f ; ugn lias rather tougli elastic whitc flesli that
must be sliccd papcr-thin to be cnjoycd as sashimi.
on pagc 17 and the "Japanese Knife Materials" section
10.5 inches (270 mm), awase, Yasuki shirogami steel, black water
on page 147. buffalo-horn collar, honok wood handle (Izutsuk brand)
7. Kurouchi RyoJeba
This is a very practica!, basic knife: only the cutting edge and the
back sido are sharpcncd and polishcd. The blade is double-gnnmd
to handle heavier tasks such as cutimg tnrougn the rhick boncs of
1. Morosbi Deba
large hsh or chicken.
Mioroshj mcans "fi!letmg."Tns sleek deba, wiih it.s slcndcr spine
From left: 7.6 inches (195 mm), 7.0 inches (180 mm) and 6.4 inches
and profilc, is optimal for fillcting. The shghrly narrow gnp makcs
(165 mm).
it easy to turn the knife while cutting.
Awase, Yasuki aogami steel, black water buffalo-horn collar, honok
From left: 10.5 inches (270 mm), 9.6 inches (240 mm) and 8.4 wood handle (Izutsuki brand)
nches (210 mm).
Awase, Yasuki sbirogami steel, black water buffalo-horn collar,
honoki wood handle (Izutsuk brand) 8. Deba knife
Since fish are a majnr par of Ja pariese cuisme, deba come in many
2. Yamgiba (bobu) lengrhs. I he smallest one i.s designed IDI h l l f l m g Mn.iII ,ii horM'
Filis Kansai-style sasliimi knife has a curved edge. Yanagi refers to a mackerel, but can be uscd to fillct any small or thin fish.
willow leaf, bul this knife is also called shobtt, or "ins Icaf." Far left: 8.4 nches (210 mm), awase, Yasuki shirogami steel, black
From left: 12-9 inches (330 mm), 11.7 nches (300 mm), 10.5 nches water buffalo-horn collar, honok wood handle
(270 mm), 9.6 inches (240 mm) and 8.4 inches (210 mm). Next two, from left: 6.4 inches (165 mm) and 4.8 inches (120 mm).
Awase, Yasuk shirogami steel, black water buffalo-horn collar, Awase, Yasuki shirogami steel, black water buffalo-horn collar and
honoki wood handle (Izutsuki brand) honoki wood handle (Izutsuki brand)
3. altohilti
9. Metubi, Pshapc and straight shapc
Likc the yanagiba, this knifc es for slicmg sashimi. Taha mcans
Thcs es a stiletto-Iike blade used to pierce an eel's head near the eye
'octopus," and the takohiki is so called because its straight tip is
to hold it in place for hllelmg. An unagi clief will use the spine or
vcry handy or cutting curlcd octopus legs. Thcsc days, Iiowever,
butt of the eel knifc to hit the top of the stilctto likc an awl. Madc
the yanagiba is more popular.
o st.imless steel.
At left: 12.9 nches (330 mm), honyaki, Yasuki shirogami steel,
black water buffalo-horn collar, honok wood handle (Izutsuki brand).
Next three, from left: 10.5 nches (270 mm), 9.6 inches (240 mm) 10. Unagfsaii, from left: Kyoto-style, Nagoya-stylc and Osaka-stylc
and 8.4 inches (210 mm). Unag mcans "eel" and salti means "to tear," which refers in this case
Awase, Yasuki shirogami steel, black water buffalo-horn collar, lo hllctmg, I hese three Kansai-siyle eel knives are designed ior fil-
honoki wood handle (Izutsuki brand) leting from the belly. (Compare tn the Kanfo-style ccl knives shown
ni photo 12.) Madc ofYasuki .shirogami steel.
4. Mamoltiri
Hamo, a type of conger eel, has long, tough bonestoo many, in 1 1 . Kaimukl
fact. to reinove. Whcn rhc bones are fmely chopped witli this knife, Kiya makes a few very popular knives for opcning shcllish (La
which is especially long and heavy, hamo can be cnjoycd in various refers to shellfish in general; muki here means "to shuck"). The
ways, from sashimi to tempura, without removing the bones. knifc on the left with the spoon-like head is cspecially or scallops,
11.7 inches (300 mm), awase, Yasuki shrogami steel, black water whose nearly fat shells are opened as if scraping the insidc with
buffalo-horn collar, honoki wood handle (Izutsuki brand) the head of the knife. Made of steel.
Illlllll lili lilil
12. Unagisak, Kdo (Tokyo)-stylc with a broad rangc of technique; thc tip is designed for carving,
Tlns Kanto-style cel knifc is designed tor filleting froni thc back. bi-vfling -li.irp t-djit-.s .ind nilic: di-tailfd r.^ks.TIu- ^urvc II t l u - i-m
I lio bononi o I lie haiidlo is Iwvlri and .shori lo alluw .1 lirni. shp- gives [he knife grcatcr vcrsatility.
frec gnp wlien filleting slimy-skmned ccls. 1 lio largcr kmfe is cxclu- 8.4 inches (210 mm) and 7.6 nches (195 mm), awase, Swedish
sivcly for un.igi; thc sm.illcr oncs are tiscd ro fillet sea eel and loah. steel, black water butfalo-horn collar and honoki wood handle (with
At left: 9. nches (240 mm), honyaki, Yasuki shirogami steel, black "Shigefusa" insignia)
water buffalo-horn collar, honoki wood handle.
Next four, from left: 8.4 inches (210 rnm), 7.0 mches(180 rnm),
6.4 inches (165 mm}, inches (150 mm), awase, Yasuki shirogami 15. Ckukabocbo
steel. All made of black water buffalo-horn collar and honoki wood This ( lmese cleaver is 4l im-lu-s (1 10 mm) widc aml weiglis nuxv
handle. than 2 potmds (9(K) g). Chnese cleavcrs come in many sh.ipcs.
dcpcnding on che regin of China a che i is from. I Im cleaver has
,i double-ground cdge, makmg u possibl' t u rliop food. L- ni u m o
I.J. Usub.i, higashigala (Kanto-style) sirips. or slice it papcr-thin all wiili the sanie toul.
1 Ins K.iiuo-Myle iiMiha is niK ,i.s popular nowadavs as ils Kansai- 8.8 inches (220 mm), No. 2 (thicker type), Yasuki shirogami steel,
stylc countorpart, wlich is curved at the end. The pointed chin stainless-steel bolster and bubinga wood handle
is Lised to i-ui ilivots (:i.s
'
wlion ivniovini!B lili- i-yos
/
of a innato, tor
('x.iniplf} and llie cenicr scction o lili- bladc is used for kalsuratmiiu
16. S0ba~s>iri bocho
I o.U \I l : r i , ' . , - ' l u . .11. , i m u ' . I - i \ l i n o , ind iJi'COf.itivi i'ut.s.
The soba-gin is used ro cnt soba, or Luickwhear. noodles. It lias a
From left: 8.4 inches (210 mm), 7.6 inches (190 rnm), 7.0 inches
long, straight o i t t i n g edge designed to cnt stacki-d sheeis o I H H K !
(180 mm), 6.4 inches (165 mm) and 6 inches (150 mm).
Awase, Yasuki shirogami steel, black water buffalo-horn collar, dougli uno thm, evcn stnps tu thc blink of an eye. A woodcn han-
honoki wood handle (Izutsuki brand] dle can be otdered tti cover che black par ni tlie liandlf; sonie chff.s
simply wr.ip :I 111 .1 towel to get a slrong gnp. Soba-making is vcry
popular ainong homo chcfs in (apan, and Kiya receives numerous
14. Usiiba, kamagata (Kansai-style) orden for custom-made soba kmves.
I IHS Kansai-siylc nsnba is widi'ly pccfcrrcd tor ciitting vcgcCablc.s 11.7 inches (300 rnm), kurouchi awase, Yasuki shirogarn steel
175
Knives on Lo catin
Tuna Knives
Filleting tuna, whch is a daily task at the Tokyo ish market, takes a great OPPOSITE: The filleting process for this
large bluefin takes three men and five
dea! of skill and efort. A team of at least three workers is needed, along
knives (ncluding the maguro bocho
wth an arsenal of tools. In additon to a saw, there is thc maguro bocho, or shown here). Though an experienced
team can fillet a tuna n minutes, the
tuna knifc. a forrnidably long sword-shapcd bladc madc for fillcting [hese Job requires tremendous strength and
fish rhat may weigh 440 pounds (200 kg) or more. The bladc, aronnd 5 agility; any clumsy mistakes result
n lost flesh and profit. 'This kind of
fcei in length (150 cm), is used lo quarter thc cntire body cleanly, with workyou could do it your whole ufe
two men handling the tool and a third steadymg the tuna. Then theres the and still not be perfect," says Takayuki
Shinoda, one o Tokyo's top three tuna
4-inch (100 cm) long bancbo, or half-tool knife, uscd to makc the first cut wholesalers.
down to thc spinc, and latcr to halvc each quarter. There are thrcc smallcr
BELOW; The auction hall at Tokyo's fish
knives as well rhat are used to complete thc task, whch professionals can market, the world's largest. Middle-
men walk the rows of tuna, checking
carry mit in ten minutes.
each fish and deciding which to bid
The maguro bocho are not necessanly of thc same quality as Japancsc on. An expert eye can assess the flavor
and lexture of the tuna by examining
kitchcn knives. If the knives were madc with a high carbn conrcnr, thcy
the flesh at the belly cut and the point
would chip and crack whcn working with thc largc fsh. The hcavy work where the lail is severed
126
A uve eel s pinned to the board with
Unagi
o knivcs the meuchi and killod with a straight
Regional diffcrcnces in rhc prcparation of ccl are reflectad in thc types cut behind the head, then expertly fil-
leted n less than a minute.
of knives used in each rea: Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, and Kyushu all
havc thcir own types of unagi-bocho. Unagi s generally fHeted butrerfly-style,
bar chcfs in thc arca around Tokyo flllct them Irom the back, while those
in the Kyoto-Osaka arca, and ncarly evcrywherc clsc in Japan, fillct them
from the belly. Preparation varios between thc rcgions as wcll: In thc Tokyo
arca cel fllets are ste,mied bel ore grilling, bi.it around Kyoto and Osaka
they are gnlled straight away.
Ecls are kcpr ahvc until thc last minute befte hlleting, whcn they are
put in a bucket of ice water to slow thcm down. Whcn thc eel s put on
thc cutting board, a stilctto-hkc meuchi s uscd to picrcc its hcad and pin it
down to thc board. A dccsivc, straight cut with the hccl of thc knifc kills
the eel instantly; the chei then zips the heavy, angular unagi-bocho down
the length of thc cel's body, filleting it butterfly-stylc. A professional unag
chcf can fillct thrcc ccls in two minutes.
Islodaiwa s one of Tokyo's most famous unagi restaurants. They The tools of the trade: the meuchi and the unagt-bocho. The
take particular care to select the best wild-caught eels and fol- Kanto-style knife shown here is designed for splitting eels from
low an exacting preparation process that includes grilling over the back. The wide, straight tip of the blade is double-ground to
charcoal, steaming, and grilling again while basting with a sweet keep the knife from hitting the eel's central nerve. The point where
Tare sauce. Nodaiwa's chefs fillet as many as five hundred eels in thc angled tip meets the main edge is used to remove the gills.
a single day.
171!
r
The soba-gn bocho is an impressive Matsuya-Kanda's famous hand-cut soba noodles. Without the
block of steel between 10 and 14 Va soba-giri bocho, cutting noodles so uniformly thin would be an
inches (24 and 36 cm) n length, 4 impossible task. Unfortunately, soba shops that make their noodles
inches (10 cm) n heght and weigh- entirely by hand are increasingly rare.
ng more than 2 pounds (about a
kilogram). To faciltate cutting through
the soft dough in a single downward
irokc: ii <n lo i - de ngned with ih;.
handle near the cenler.
Soba knife
Buckwheat, or soba, has bccn cultivated in Japan for inore than a thousand
ycars. Noodles madc from buckwhcat bccamc popular somc thrcc hundrcd
years ago, when laborers crowded the booming city of Edo. They loved the
rcfreshing, slightly sweet flavor and energy-boosting properties of these
noodlesnot to mcntion the speed with which thcy could be caten. Soba
is Japan's original fast food, and soba shops still outnumbcr hamburgcr
chain outlets.
At Matsuya-Kanda, one such soba shop in Tokyo, the noodlc dough
is made from buckwhcat flour, with somc whcat flour addcd for clasticity
(eggs are used as a binder). A cyprcss-wood pole is nscd to roll and strctch
the dough into a papcr-thm sheet that is folded mto an eight-layer stack
OPPOSITE: Takayuki Kodaka, head chef at
Matsuya-Kanda, cutting soba noodles. for cutting. The heavy soba-giri bocho cssentially shaves away /-inch (3 mm)
A wooden guide, or komarta, held n strips from the stack to crate a bundle of long, perfect noodles. Matsuya's
the left hand, helps keep the width of
the cuts uniform. The knife handle is simple zaru soba, cookcd noodles served on a lacquered tray accompamed
covered with sharkskn, which helps
by a cup of dipping sauce, is the perfect way to savor the dclicate swectncss
Kodaka to maintam a steady gnp when
wielding this heavy knife. of frcsh soba noodles.
131
Chef Nozaki uses the long, straght-tpped Hamo knife
hamokin conger knife to cut the countless
bones n the filleted conger. huno, or daggcrtooth pike conger, is only in season from June to the end
ot August. A classic men ircm in summer. ir is otten enjoyed as sashimi or
(empura, or m shabu-sbabu.
This long, thick-skinned fish, which belongs ro the col fanuly, has innu-
merable hard bones thar mus be cut and softcned heforc cooking so that
rhc fish can be caten with case. This proccss, called hamo no bonekir (literally
"conger-bone cutting"), curs and seprales the bones. The fish is first fil-
k-ted butterfly-style with a deba knife. and the skin Icft on. The chcf thcn
uses the long, t h m bamokirt (conger knife) to makc a senes of vertical cuts
at cise nter/vals, working from the l e f t and going .ill the way down ihe il-
let. Whcn the process is flnished. the fllet may be ciu into 1-inch (2.4 cm)
picccs and blanched to sofrcn the skin before bcmg scrvcd as sashimi.
i i
S H A R P E N I N G
The Stonc
A carbon-steel [apese kmfe should tu-ver be sharpened with anything
other tnan a water stone, smce usmg a sharpening steel or an oilstone
would ruin thc cutting cdge. Proessionals use thrcc different grades of
water stone to sharpen tlier knives: thc arate (coarsc stone), thc kaki (fine
stonc) and thc sbiogtto (hntshmg or cxtra-finc sronc). I;or thc
home cook, the nakato sinne vvtll sulfure.
Althuugh natural waUT M ores aiv sull lound in [apan, espe-
cially in Kyoto and Kumamoto prcfecturcs. ther increasing rar-
ity has madc thcm cxpcnsive-as much as a thousand dollars
tor a single stonc. These days, thcy are mai'nly uscd for polish-
ing traditional [apese swords; mosi people use synthetic water
stonesusually alumnuiin or silicon carbidefor ni.initainini;
cooking knives. Thcse are incxpensivc and more rcadily a\'ailablc
than natural water stones, in addition to Lieing casier to use.
Both natural and synthetic water stones come in a ran^e
or gram siy.es, from as coarse as 80 to as fine as 8,000 grit.
To determine thc gnt of a water alone, t h e abrasive grains are
p.isscd through a sieve. The numbcr of holes n thc sieve wiihin
a onc-inch (2.5 cm) squ.irc corrcsponds to thc number of the
grit. Therefore, a #800 (800 grit) <ir<io coarsc stone consists of
grains that passcd through an 800-hole-per-inch sieve. Since
a greater number of liles per inch means that ti u- holes are
The beautjfully-graned slone on the
smallcr, highcr numbers indcate a finer grit. loft is a natural water stone used by
Synthetic stones are catcgorizcd ]ust like thc natural stones. Thc eoarsc an anisan in Sakai who specializes
n sharpening knives. On the right is
arato rangcs from 80 to 220 grit, and is mostly uscd on ncwly purchased a synthetic stone, Synthetic water
knives that liave or yet been sharpened. Thc fine nakato rangcs from 400 stones are the best choice for everyday
use in sharpening kitchen knives.
to 1500 gnt. and is considered thc basic stonc for sharpening, with a widcr
range of uses than the other two.The cxtra-fmc shiageto generally lias a grain
of more t h a n 3000 ^ril, ,md sharpens knives vcrv finely. It does the subtle
work of fimslimg unevcn Mirface arcas, and ni.ikes the edge razot-sharp.
Kmfc makcrs and retailcrs, as well as profcssional chefs, generally agree
that thc fme-grit nakato is the only stone the home chet needs. In [apan,
most kmfe shopS will gladly sharpen a new km'fe after it is purchased, and
will also hone or repar chips on a damaged bladc. Online knifc rctailers
vary in the services they offer. When purchasmg a knife online, it is wise to
compare scllcrs to scc whidh oncs offcr this scrvice.
137
follows an are from rhc bottom of rhc sronc to thc top (see details on page
139). The knifc should always follow rhc shmog lino as it movcs across rhc
sharpening stone.
Whcn rhe ornte (edge sidc) is correctly sharpened, a kaer or long regular
burr is formcd [illustration 3] toward rhc ura (back side) or rhe blade. 1 he
kaeri may be visible as a white hnc down rhc cdgc because ir reflects rhe
h'ghr. Ir can also be fclt whcn rhc hladc is touched lighrly wtrh rhc cusnion
of thc Icfr rhumb. The proccss or sharpening thc knifc acrually consisrs of
repeatedly forming and removng kaeri.
Although ir looks straght to the naked eye, a sharpened edge appears
jaggcd, like a saw, if viewcd undcr magnificarion. A knife uses norches to
cut, just like a saw, but on a much fincr Icvcl; rhs is why a Japancsc knife
cuts best wlien ir is pullcd. 1'he extra-fme shiageto stone is uscd as a final
step to rnake the notches as hne as possible, since thc fincr thc notches, thc
bcttcr thc knifc wll cut. (Incidentally, the shiageto should only be used on
carbn stccl, not srainlcss stcel. On a stainless steel knife, the shiageto wll
makc such fine notches that rhcy no longcr catch thc material bcmg cut,
and the blade will be mef lectivo.)
Some professionals pul a double edge [Justration 4] on the blade.
The second cutting edge is called thc toba, and while it does not atect the
sharpncss, it docs greatly improvc thc durabihty. Some chefs prerer hav-
ing a koba on thc lower parr of thc deba blade, whcrc t can be used for
totigher chores likc chopping bonos. A koba can be casily madc by moving
the blade at a more acute angle during the finishing-slone Magc [illustra-
tion 5|. The kaeri is then removed by sharpening the back side.
[Edge shinogi
(Back sde]
blade path
stone
blade pa h koba
ILL.2 ILL. 4
shinogi shinogi
I ,;.
Sharpening the usuba knife
I 19
8, 9. When the kaeri on the first sec-
tion of the edge side of the knife has
formed, repeat the process for the
next section. Move all the way down
the knife to the heel.
I !;:
Sharpening the deba or yanagiba knife
II
DAILY MAINTENANCE
ni 6
chips
ILL. 7
sharpen up
to Ihis line
ILL. 8
-i ;
PURCHASING A
JAPANESE KNIFE
Makmg
o
a Choice
The most suicable type of knife really depends on the cook. Mosr homc
cooks in Japan have an timba (also called a nakiri-bocho) and a deba. An all-
purposc double-ground knfe called a santoku is also found in many kitch-
cns; thc gyulo, or beef slicer, which is versatle enough to cut manv things,
is anotner popular choice, Those who enjoy cookng .ind frequently hold
parties at home generally have a few more speaalized knives. For example,
thcy may have a good yanagiba if they likc shcing sashimi ouf of fish fil-
lets from che supcrmarkct. Cooks who are scrious about Japancse cuisinc
should have an nsuba and a deba ar minimnni.
For casual cooks, as well as those who do not have experience wiih ap-
ese knlves, an awase knife is a better choice than a honvakl bladc. Even if
thc carbn stccl cdgc of an awasc knife is chipped or crackcd, rhc dainagc
vvill be mnima] because the softer npper part of the knife will stay intact.
Furthermore, an awase blade s f a r easer tu sharpen.
' ! '
Those who are wcll verscd in using an awasc knfe
might be rcady to consider a honyaki hbde. Honyaki knivos
are much more cxpcnsivc since tliey are farged at an artisanal
Icvcl; thcy cannor be mass-prodiiced. Bccause ot the lorg-
mg process ihey hold an edge longcr than awasc knivcs. For
people who cook professionally with a smglc purpose such as
cuttmg sashimi all day, a honyaki knfe is the besl choice.
Both awasc and honyaki knives are made (rom standard
carbn stccl and rhcrcforc rust casily. Howevcr, single-ground
knives made of new types of rust-resistant carbn stccl can
be found. Smgle-ground knives made of stainless stecl for
case of use are also avail.ible.
Tradifional Japancsc knives are ground only on tlie nght
side, and are intendcd for nght-hanclcd use. Lcft-handed
knives are not Iiard to lind, but thcy are gencrally not as
widely available. They can be custom-ordered as well.
lonba-tsuke Service
[apese knives are often sold as shown in illustration 10, with the gray
1LL. 10
rea from A to C needmg to be removed. The rcmoval of this arca is callcd
145
bonba-tsuke, "makmg a real edge." Thc proccss of remov-
ing the rea between A and B is callcd ura-oshi, or flat-
tcnmg thc back side. Honba-tsuke service is common
in Japan, whcther thc blade comes from a knife shop or
va the Internet, but it rnay be diffcult Lo find somconc
with these sklls m a local knifc shop outsidc Japan. Some
knives are sold with honba-tsuke already completed; again,
t is best to confirm rhis with the seller before buying a
knif.
The Bladc
The malcriis used to make Japanese knives can be gfOUped into two cate-
gorics. One is carbn steel, a material used m mosi Japanese knives. Carbn
stecl s madc in thc forgc by adding carbn to steel made from iron sand.
Honyaki knives are made completely of carbn stcel, whilc awase (knsitwi)
knives are made by combining carbn steel and sofre' iron.
Fre second category o matenals includes stanless stccl. lo make stain-
less steel, chrome (more than 12%) is added to carbn steel. Because flus
prevens rnsring, stanless steel is used in both Japanese and Western knives
made for lime use.
[apese kitchen kimvs used to be forgcd from lantahagane Japan stccl,
whicb is a carbn stccl made using the ancient talara lilast hirnact- method.
However, these days the mam material is Yasuki Specialty Steel (YSS).
YSS, which has a high carbn contcnt, was invcntcd by Hitachi Metals
Ltd. using thc ideas behind tatara bl.ist-furnacc mcthods to crate stccl tliat
could be mass-prodiiced. YSS, considerad to be the top quahty stccl for
forgmg today's [apese kitchen knives, comes m severa! difercnt varietics,
dependmg on thc percentaje of the metis and other matenals. I hese are
namcd usmg colors, e.g., shirogaiui ("whitc-paper"). or aogami ("bluc-papcr").
(Originally, thc varietics of YSS wcrc differentiatcd by pasting papcr labels
of various colors on thc steel.)
JIS SK stccl
("ontams carbn, as well as impunties such as phospnorus and sulfur. JIS
SK steel is used for hand tools such as saws and axes.
147
YSS shirogami (white-paper)
With impurities reduced cvcn furthcr, this is rhc purest typc of YSS carbn
stecl, and thc closest to tamakagane Ja pan steel. It is also used as a base for
developing additional vaneties of YSS. Forging shirogami steel is exttemely
difficult. Since very few ardsans can forgc kitchen knives with this mate-
rial, shrogami knives are rarc. This type of stecl tcnds to rust casily, but
somc say that it cuts bettcr than any other steel,
Swedish steel
This is a very pur carbn steel made in Sweden. Misono, a Japanese knife-
maker, uses this high-quality steel for one of" its knife senes. If impropcrly
mantaincd, Swedish stecl rusts just as YSS carbn stecl docs, but it holds
an cdgc well and cuts food very cleanly.
148
The Handle and trie Collar
Wood from the honoki tree, a species of magnolia, is uscd to makc the
liandic for a traditional Japanese knife. A honoki wood handle provides a
firm grip to prcvent slippmg, and is smooth and comfortable m the hand.
Sonic knivcs have handles made of Itokutan ebony or keyaki Japanese zelkova
wood. Whatever the material, the wooden handle is attachcd by heating the
nakago or tang of the knif (see kme anatomy on pago 17) and nscrting ir
into a lile dnllcd into the wood by poundmg (he bottom o tbe handle.
As the nakago cools, the wood of the handle shnnks aronnd it, making
it perfectly securc wirhout gkic or bolts. The wooden handle may cventu-
ally beconie vvorn, or the tang may rust mside if the knife is improperly
maintamed. If this happens, the k n i f e should he scnt back to the store for
a replacement handle.
The water bufralo-horn collar, called the kakumaki, is attached to keep
i he wood of the handle from cracking whcn the nakago tang is heated and
dnven firmly into the handle of the knife by pounding the bottom wirh a
mallet.Though tradilionally niade o water buf falo-horn, inexpensive pls-
tic collars are sometimcs used as well.
149
FISH ANATOMY
rib bones
pin bones
pectoral fin
Ths illustration shows thc progress of thc cutting cdgo of thc kmfe toward
the spinc of thc fsh during fllcrmg. The fillctmg is or done with a single
strokc, but bv making scvcral passcs across thc bones, adjustmg the .ingle
of thc cufting cdgc to match thc angle of the bones.
150
G L O S S A R Y
AJ muscle, and cspccially the livor of chis fish coniam lethal leiro-
(apese luirse mackerel, Trarherus japetiirtis.Th\s small (8 in. / 20 doxin, which is similar to curare, it mus be dressed by cerrified
cm) fish resembles .1 mackerel, lint is accually a incmbcr of thc pro fcsii onals. The mild, elastic flcsh is sliccd paper-ihin and calen
j.ick rnmily. Then1 ir two types o aj, tlie yellowisli mshorc van- as sashim; it may also be caten gnlled, deep-fned, or simmered
ety and the darker. longer-bodied offshore type. Aj is onc of the in nabc. Fugu is onc of thc most expensivc foods ii: [apan.
most common tood fisn in [apan.
( iubo
A11 k 111 o ( i n - a i e r bnrdock rooL This long, hairy root is a Japanesc Maplc.
I his tvord rctcrs to the hvcr of the monkisli, Lopaht tisitH^rius. It has a swect, sligluly earihy flavor and a flbrous texture. Place t
Crcamy and rich, stoamed ankimo is a tradicional winter delicacy in water a f t e r cutting ro prcvcnt discoloration and to reduce the
in [apan. harshness of ts flavor. Gobo is used in many dishes, but most
popularly in lempira gobo, julienned gobo and carrot sautcd in
Ayll si-.s.inie oil and seasoned w i l h soy sauce, red chili peppcr. sugar,
Swectfish, Plecogioa altivelis. This trout-like freshwater fish avcr- and minn or sakc.
ages 6 inclies (15 ctn) m length. In certain places ayu is fishcd
using trained cormoranes. Prized for its swect flcsh, it is often Hirame
enjoyed gnllcd wiih salt rom carly summcr to rail. Fluke or summer floundec, fbralitbtbys dttttatu. Wilh iis ni i Id,
slightly swect flavor and delicaie lexlure, fluke is une of ilu- riiost
Daikon radsh popular wnite-fleshed fisn used for sushi.
This long, white, mild-fleshed vaneiy o radish is a mainstay of
[apase cookini;. Srrv.-d r.iw. it can be g round, shreddcd ken- [locho
style, or sliced inio tliin shcots kat$uramuki-sty\t, It is also oftcn Phis is thc gencnc (apese word for "kitchen knite."Thc ames
sliccd mo ihck ronnds. Iwclrd and siuiMu-ivd m m.iny dillercnt of difcrent typcs of knives gcncrally cnd n the suf'fix -hocho or
dishes. In .iddition, daikon is commonly pickled wirh rice bran, -bocho, e.g.. iicha-hocko fillcnng kmfc.
salt, or vincgar. I he part lurihest from the srem lias a sharper
flavor; d.nkon is also Mveeter m winter. Iwashi
Sardine, Sardinopf sagax. Thi.s sm.ill rish, ,1 membcr of the hcrring
Dashi tamily, has a full llavor and rich (Ic.sh. (w.ishi aiv gi-iu'rally L.-.UII>]U
A cornerstonc of [apese cuisine. dashi is stock or broih with a ai aboni 8 inches (20 cni) long, and are often servcd as sushi or
k-int-it ki'lp h.ise. I I u- moM coninion lype or' dashi is m.idc with sashimi witli a dab ot grated gmgcr and sliccd green omons on top.
kombii and kalsuobushi bonito flakes, lu i d i i f d sliniake iniisli-
rooms and dned baby sardmes, along with otlicr dncd fish, may |osei
also be itsrd. This tcrm means "superior" and can !>e used interchangcably
lingawa
I h c cngawa is the ndged seciion o ninscle along the L>oi\lei o Rabayaki
a flatfish lillet. Ii is considered the hesi par o tne f i s h ID use or Scc Unagi.
sashimi because o iis slightly crunehy lexiurt-.
k. MIS, n
Fugu The arca of wcstern Japan centcrcc around Osaka, and including
Japanesc blowfish (pnffcr flsli). Fugu rubrpes. As ihc ovaries. --km. Kyoto and Robe.
Kanro parmg nasu: grilling, braising, frying, stcammg, and picklmg, tu
The rea o eastern Japan centered around Tokyo. ame only a few,
Katsuo Nijimasu
Skipjack tuna (bonito), Katsuwonus pelamu. Most commonlv Rainbow trout, Oiicorhyifhis mykiss. These freshwater fish are noc
smoked, dried into blocks, and fncly shavcd to makc katsuobusbi natve to Japan, but were imported in the ninetecnth century.
bonito flakes, katsuo also is wonderful caten in season (summcr 1 hcy clin ve in Japars nvcrs and are a popular catch in fly fishing.
and early autumn) as sashim. It is ofr.cn scrvcd toaii-style, bricfly
seared on thc outside, wth grated garlic, raw onion, grated gingcr. Noi-i
momiji-oroshi ground daikon and red pcppcr, or citrusy pcnzu sauce. These purplish sijuare shcets of ponndcd I a ver turn bright green
whcn roastcd. Best known as the wrapping around rolled stishi
and onigiri rice balls, nori can be scissored into thin strip.s and
Kimpira
Lised to top noodlcs or hot rice. Roastcd non quickly curts limp
Se e Cobo.
and stale, and should be kcpt in an airtight tin.
Kombu
Otoshi-buta
Kombu, a seaweed froni rhe gcnus Laminaria, rs an important part
A circular woodcn drop-lid, slightly smaller in circuinfetrna-
of Japanese cuisine. Rich in glutamic acid, ir Icnds umami to any
than the pot it is uscd with. The otoshi-buta floats on top of
dish. Kombu is usually dncd before use, but it may also be pick-
simmcn-d dishcs, cnsunng that the hcat is cvcnly distributcd and
led or caten fresh.
kccping the ingrcdcnts from boiling too hard. The otoshi-buta
should be soaked in water for a fcw minutes prior to using so
Kyuri that it does not absorb tlavors,
Japanese cucumber. Thcse thin-sknned, spiny cucumbcrs are long
and slender, with tiny seeds. If kyun are not available, sccdcd Rice vniegar
common cucumbers are a fine subsntiitc. X'inegar made with rice is mild and mellow. Scvcral kinds of rice
vinegars are available, including brown rice vincgar and scasoncd
Mentaiko rice vnegar, which is sweetened for use in sushi rice. Be careful
Mentaiko is brincd cod or pollock roo; it s often spiccd with when purchasing, as it is easy to get the wrong one. For recipes in
red peppers. Spicy mentaiko is popularly caten on spagnetU, but this book, plain rice vinegar is best.
it i.s olso delicious on hot rice. Many find its salty, spicy flavor
addctive, Sata
M.ickerel, Scotnbtr scornimts. Saba is an important food fish in Japan
becatise of its relative abundance. Though many in the West dis-
Mirin
like its strong flavor, it is a favorite in Japan, particulurlv grilled,
This swcet rice wine is an essential kitchcn ingrcdicnt. Be surc to
or mannated in vmcgar and served as sashimi. It tastes best m fall,
buy "hon-mirin," which actually concains winc madc from rice.
when its high fat conten gives it an even richer taste. It should bf
Some mrin varieties are sold with additivc sweetcners such as
caten as fresh as possible,
dextrose; these are best avoidcd.
Sawara
Naganegi Spanish mackercl, Scomberomonis niphonia. These medium-szed (30
Long onion. This vanety of scallion, sold commonly m Japan bur nch / 80 cm) fish are one of Japan's most popular food fish,
difficult ro find in the Wesr, is about two fect (60 cm) long and Sawara is often shccd for sashinu or sushi, grilled, or snnmered.
an indi (2.5 cm) thick. Naganeg has a mild onion flavor and It is ,it Jts pcak in wtntcr.
becomes wonderfully sweet when cooked. Leeks can be substi-
tutcd for naganegi m recipes where they are cooked; for a raw Shiso
subslitute, the smaller Western green onions work well. Also known as Japanese basil, or bccstcak plant, shiso is an
important herb in Japan. Not only its fragranr Icavcs, but its buds
Nasu and nny purple flowers as well, are used to enhance sasnim as
Japanese eggplaflt. Friese are far smaller and more elongaced than a garnsh. It is also a key ngredient in certain kinds of pickles.
their Western cousms. Thcy have thm skin, fine-textured flesh, Sbiso leaves have a distinctive, delicate flavor, They are delicios
and tmy secds. A summcr favonte. thcrc are mynad ways of prc- chiffbnaded and put in a salad, omelet or stir-fry.
I--'
Sunomono about two teaspoons in a small cup and add ice-COId water a Iittle
In Japaiwse cuisine, this word reten to salad-like dislies prepared at a time, using a chopstick to stir rapidly, until it becomcs a soft
with vinegar. Sunomono oftcn contain seawced, and are generally pasro. Invert thc cup over a saucer to preven! the flavor from
slightly sweet, complcmenting thc mild tartness of rice vinegar. evaporating. It fresh wasabi root is availahle. an nrWj sharkskin
They are a great appetizcr. and also work well to relivsh thc pal- Crter is the bcst tool Co use to gnnd it mto paste.
ate borwecn courscs.
Zuwai-gani
Tai Snow crab. Cbionoecetes afilio. In season diirmg the wintcr months,
Sea bream, Pagrus majar. I'his hantlsome red-striped f i s h is consid- this is a sought-after and expensive dclic.u-y in Japan.
crcd a good-Iuck symbol ni [apan, and is tliorclore served on aus-
picious occasions. It s one of the nniM popular fish in japanese
cuisinc. Tai is bcst caten n winti-r or e.irly spring.
Takezaru
A rypc of bamboo sieve used to drain noodlos and serve food.
Tokujo
This tcrm nioans "superior." and can he used mterchangcably
with josfi.
Tsuma
Tsnma is the gmenc ame for any of thc many kmds of fresh
vegeiahle garmshcs UM-,| to enhancc the prescntation of sashimi.
The most common of tlese is i/i-cut daikon. but vanous kmds
of seaweed and l e a f y vegetables are also used.
Um.inu
l ' m a i n i is now acccpted as one of the fve basic tastos (n addi-
tion to sour, swect, salty, and bitter). Foods rich in utnami
commonly fermented or ,igcd foodjcontam glutamic acid or
glutamates that lend a savory. hcarty flavor.
Unagi
Japancsc freshwatcr ecl, Anguilla japnica. Unagi is most oftcn
"i M I ! ! '.i'',',.;,'. I v u l n , u , , i ei-I; tillis ni iniagi an sieamed, then
gnlled ovcr charcoal and basted with a sweet lare saco. Thoy may
be caten as-s, or laid over steamed rice (una-Jon). Anago, the soa-
gong countcrpart of unagi, has ,1 slightly less f a t i y t e x t i t r e and
subtler tlavor.
Yuzu
This citrus fruit, nativc to East Asia, has a haunting fragrance
and soiu flesn, l i is rarcly caten out of hand; thc rmd is used as a
.u-nisli .un.1 flavoring .igent. Yu^u marmaladc s a trcat as well.
Wasabi
Fhis relativo ot horscradish grows only in clcar, cok), mouniain
strcams. Though thc fresh-ground root is incomparable for us
sweet pungency, wasabi can also be boughl in tuhes. or in pow-
dered form (thesc contain mam' other ingrediente besides wasabi.
including horscradish, tlonr, and coloring), To reconstitute, place
A F T E R W O R D
My first Japanesc kitchcn knife was a Misono "petty," a thin versin of thc
parmg knire. 1 he nrst rime I used itco slice through a tomato-was a
revelacin, so swifr and den was the accin. A fcw ycars later, in rlie mdst
of researching a book un Jupancsc cooking rools, I gor my Kands on the
chree man typcs of knives, the deba, usuba and yanagiba. But the truth is I only
owncd thc knivcs, but had vet to "earn" them. In fact, I had ltele conf-
dcnce in using my specialst knives for their mtendcd purposcs.
1 hcre are many publicatons on knife usagc in Japancsc, but they tend to
assume readers alrcady have a ccrtam Icvcl of cxpcnencc. Hiromitsu Nozaki
of Tokyo's famcd Wakctokuyama rcstaurant is not only an extraordmary
chef, he is also a born teacher. In his many wntings, lecturcs, and classes, he
uses simple language to explam nutrition, food culture, and cooking. So I
asked if he might be interested in working on a book in English to illumi-
nate the complex world of Japancsc kitchcn knives. Luckily, he agreed.
Ovcr thc course of ncarly a year, No/.aki and his comradely team of
apprcntcc chefs went out of their way to show me the whys of thcir world,
starting with posture. Once Nozaki positioncd me m thc corrcct way, the
knife truly became an extensin of my arm and cutting mgrcdicnts became
almost effortlcss. He also guidcd rny hands with his, showng me how to
fecd and rotatc thc daikon into tlie usuba for rotary peelng, for example,
or how to tap the deba bandle against a crab claw to see it break away.
Toward rhe end of our project Nozaki gave me an cntire sea bream to
take home to gut, fillet in five pieces, and slicc into sashimi. I was tcrrifcd.
But I pullcd out my scaler, yanagiba and deba, put the beast into the smk
and jumped into thc mcssy work of scalng. It was to be a rocky journey
with somc pretty sloppy work. But I was rewarded with a feast, where every
bit of thc fish was uscd. I was at Icast beginning to earn my knives.
T hopc vou cnjoy this chance to [earn cutting techmques trom the che s
pcrspcctivc, and that, hke me, you dscover just how excitng it can be to
work with a sharp bocho, fresh ingrcdicnts, and tlie rght methods.
Katc Klippcnsteen
i f,.-i
B I B L 1 O G R A P H Y
Nozaki, Hiromitsu. Meijttt Itamae; Nibon Ryon no /int. Tokyo: Kodansha, 2004
Narus 1 , Uhei. Nozaki. Hiromitsu, & Nishinomiya, Shintchi. /.ukai: Saltana no Salala tata.
Tokyo: Shibata Shoten, 1997
Kishmoto, Hirokazu, Suzuki, Nobuniro, & Akagawa, Izumi. Cyoruigaltit Jikkfn 'lext.
Kanagawa:Tokai University Press, 2006.
(The illustrations on pago 150 are bascd on those m chis book.)
Hiyoshmaru Ltd.
Fokiwa Palacc 516, 1-1-1, Shimo-ochiai, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Phonc: +81-3-3368-1598 | 1 ttp://www.Iu)ticlio.nct
Kai Corporation
3-9-5, Iwamoto-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Phone; +81-3-3866-3741 hctp://www.k.ii-grtiup.:orn/c/
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Slicing taiti 101, 102, 124 vinegar sce rice vinegar
Hirazukuri 112 tang (nakago) 17 Vinegared Cucumber wirn Chicken
Sogizakuri 110 Tca-whisk CAIC (Chasen-gir) 42 Tenderlon 47
Usuzukuri 114 Three-piece Filleting (Stinmai Oroskt) Vincgared Mackerel 76, 116
smoked salmn 29 64,72
snow crab 94 tp (kissakt) 17, 53, 141 W
soba-giri bocho (soba knife) 125, 131 tokujo 144, 153 wasabi 108, 153
sogigtri 106, 110 tubonttki 83 water sronc 136
Sogtznkuri Slicing 106, 110 suma 30, 153 whirtling (Sasagiiki) 38
sori (curve) 17 tuna 106 wooden sheath 149
soy sauce 34, 36, 40, 43, 70, 84, 92, 98 tuna knves 126
liglit soy sauce 29, 47, 62 turnips (kaim) 62
spine (mine or mue) 17 Ya&ukuri Doubled Qit 108, 1 16
SpiraJ Cut (NarutO'-gii) 118 U yanagiba (shobu) 100, 124
Spotred-tawn Cur (Kanoko-gtri) 11 x uniami 7, 153 Yasuki Specially Steel 147
squid 107, 109, 118, 119, 120, J21 ume-piri
o
48 yin-yang 108
steel-jacketed awas (seccin view) 16 Huig/1 (eel) 51, 153 yuzu 62, 153
Straight Filleting (Daimyo Orosbi) 78 unagj~i>ocbo, unagsaki (eel knife) 124,
sugar 76 125, 128
sukilki scaling 87 (./iiig; /Ciajyu^j'Barbecued Eel 51 zucchin 32
sHtninagaski parrcrn 24, 146 imita scaler 56 zuwai-patii
O
(snow crab)
V
94, 153
sitnomono 44, 153 usulxi 22, 125
susbikir (sushi knifc) 124 higashigata (Kanto-stylc) 23, 25, 125
svnrhctc water sroncs 1,16 kamagata (Kansai-stylc) 24,125
Usuzukuri Slicing 106, 114
r utsu 24
tai sea bream 55, 60, 62, 64, 70, 103,
104, 106, 107, 108, 110, 112, 153 V
rail (caudal fin) 150 Vegetable Canaps 51
takezam 31, 35, 153 venr 150
Ibis