churchkhela
see hostel
young
for tr
av
ellers
Georgian Maybe Time
Take off your watch once you get the Geor-
gian entry stamp in your passport! Time is
definitely not of the highest value here. There
are so many unpredictable situations (such as
traffic jams, out of service buses, unexpect-
ed visits from an old friend, or water outages)
that can ruin your precisely calculated plan.
So, dont be angry with your friend, guide, or
driver if they are not exactly on time. Have
a book with you and relax.
Be a good guest
In Georgia we say A guest in the house is
a God in the house. For many Georgians, the
entire country is their house and you should
feel welcome. There is a good chance that
you will find yourself at a traditional feast (su-
pra) and your new Georgian friends will give
long toasts in your name with full glasses of
wine. Even though we often dont have much,
we will share it with you without asking any-
thing back. Dont offer your host money, as
it might be offensive. Instead, you can leave
a small gift from your homeland, like post-
cards with a kind note or a little souvenir.
Get an icon
Most of the Georgians are Orthodox Chris-
tians. Even though you might meet young
people who no longer follow religious tra-
ditions, you will still find many people pray-
ing and lighting candles in Tbilisi churches.
Most people also have a set of icons in their
homes. Georgian patron saints, St.George
and St.Nino, protect every driver on the road.
Get a nice holy souvenir and buy a small icon
for yourself!
Behave in a church
Following the church dress code helps to
show your respect to our religious tradi-
tions. Men should wear long trousers inside
a church, and women should have a longer
skirt and scarf to cover their head and arms.
BEGINNERS
Gamarjoba! Hello!
Erti ludi! One beer!
(Didi) Madloba Thank you! (very much)
Gaumarjos! Cheers! everywhere so you will probably catch this
Naxvamdis! Good bye!
Ara/Diax No/Yes
Pronunciation!
x and kh like j in San Jose
j like j in jeans
ch like ch in cheers
gh like french r
g like g in golf
ade by l
m pot. Try the best in Racha.
oc
als
Dont worry if it doesnt match your fashion
style. In most of the churches you can find
a scarf to borrow.
Start smoking!
Dont be a minority, start smoking today!
There are plenty of reasons to start smoking
in Georgia. The cigarettes are cheap, smoking
is allowed practically everywhere, and smok-
ers here are really social we wont hesitate
to ask you for a cigarette on the street or in
the bar. If you still manage to resist this bad
habit, check the places marked
Dont trust zebras
For many Georgian drivers, a zebra is just an
exotic animal, so dont expect that cars will
stop for the one painted on the road. Many
people take the risk of running across the
street because it is too far to the nearest un-
derground pass. If you are daring, try to cross
the road with a larger group of people the
drivers may consider slowing down. Beware,
you are at your own risk! (For American
visitors, a zebra is the European term for
crosswalk).
Art of birzha
If you really want to feel like a local, you
should master birzha the art of doing noth-
ing and everything at the same time. You will
need semitchki (sunflower seeds), a bunch of
friends, an opinion on everything, and a spot
to sit down. Then you just enjoy staring at
people. You should gossip, relax, and let your
mind unwind. Evidence of a popular birzha
place is a pile of seed shells on the ground.
Bargain!
Taxi drivers, as well as sellers at bazaars and at
flea markets all speak the universal language
of bargaining! If you are good at it, you can
lower the prices and enjoy a good bargain
battle. If something costs 7lari, you can prob-
ably get it for 5 if you are a good haggler.
ADVANCED
Bazari araa
No problem. Universal solution to every
situation. Our hospitality will follow you
phrase often.
over the river and the fish are dancing with you. Several
Sami lari
Three lari. Magical formula you must use by
haggling with taxi drivers. Riding in the cen-
tral area shouldnt cost you more.
Vaime
Italians have mama mia! Georgians have
vaime. Use it to express disappointment,
joy, fear, excitement - just change the in-
tonation.
underground classes
1 Mines in the middle of the capital? Yes! In Tbili-
si you have an opportunity to go 36meters under the
ground, lurk in another layer of the city and learn a thing
or two about digging tunnels and working in them. All
you have to do is to ask one of the lecturers to arrange
a tour. This is the only Technical university in the whole
world where students can practice mining within the
area of their university. (68Merab Kostava, 6th build-
ing of the Technical university, informational bureau:
+995 558 102 202).
dance with the fish
2 If your spirit animal is of the party variety,
Mtkvarze is the place to go. You are literally dancing
famous Georgian resident DJs play here, as well as var-
ious special guests and the VJs of Mtkvari present cool
and sexy visuals to complete the sensory experience.
The entrance fee and beverage prices are quite reason-
able. If you get tired and want to take a break, the ve-
randa is a great place to chill out. Fri Sat 23:0011:00.
(2Agladze)
love is in the air
3 Take a walk in Mushtaidi Garden and feel the love
in the air! The garden was built in the nineteenth cen-
tury by a Persian immigrant to honor his deceased wife.
The park, which is named after her, can host couples,
families and children. If you want to see the worlds first
locomotive for children, this is the only place you can!
eclectic interior
4 Want to visit a theatre, but the only Georgian
words you know are khachapuri and gaumarjos? Kakha
Bakuradzes Movement Theatre is the place for you!
This independent theatre puts on plays that are a syn-
thesis of drama, pantomime, ballet and circus art. If you
prefer music to theatre, dont miss the free jazz concerts
every Thursday. Mon Sun 15:001:00. (182Agmash-
enebeli)
bazaar bizarre
5 Sami Lari, everybody! Sami is three in Georgian
even camped out in the park for more than half a year.
and you will hear that everywhere on the Vagzlis Ba-
zaar. You can find everything you need here and all at
a bargain! It is a great place to buy brand clothes from
the stores below ground or vegetables at half the price
youd pay in shops in the city. But beware: its easy
to get lost and buy a bunch of stuff you dont need. Mon
Sun 10:0018:00. (Station Square)
cool yourself down
A lake in the suburbs of the city is so big that we
call it the Tbilisi Sea. It is the perfect place to escape
the citys heat and swim in crystal blue waters. When
TV Tower
it gets colder, just walk lake-side or take a short hike to
the massive Chronicle of Georgia Monument (on the
hill off the northern shore). To avoid the official beach
(which is often crowded and has dirtier waters), take the
metro from Station sq. to Tsotne Dadiani str. , take bus
#111 and get off once you see the sea.
occupy vake
7 Vake Park is one of the biggest parks in Tbilisi.
Thanks to the cascade fountain (which sadly doesnt
work anymore) and statues, the Vake Park has a bit of
a Soviet era charm about it. But we love to come here
and relax. Since there are not many parks in Tbilisi, we
fought against developers to protect this park from be-
ing swallowed up by a fancy hotel. The bravest of us
11:0023:00. (33Chavchavadze)
The survival of this park is a testament to a time in Geor-
gia when a previously lethargic civil society reawoke.
taste the future
8 Welcome to Innova Cafe, the place where the
menu is projected directly onto your table! But thats
not all, you are also just one click away from playing
games or calling a cab. This place is an exciting example
of what coffee shops of the future might look like and
is one of a kind in Tbilisi. Come here and travel through
time to catch a glimpse of the future! Mon Sun
11:0023:45. (13Archil Mishveladze)
Bike Sculpture
shoe heaven
9 Carrie Bradshaw herself would be in love with this
place. Mach & Mach has items by two Georgian design-
ers and the small shop is full of fashionable pieces. The
style is modern with lustrous and shimmering materials,
black chunky shoes and an interior not to be missed.
Mon Sun 13:0021:00. (47a Paliashvili)
10 best pizza in tbilisi
Sometimes you just need a pizza, especial-
ly if youve overdosed on traditional Georgian food.
Pomodorissimo Caf is definitely the place to satisfy
your need at prices around 9,521GEL. Come on Fri-
day or Saturday and enjoy your meal to the sound of
live music in this large two-story restaurant. Mon Sun
visited, which is perfect as the place
khachapuri supreme
11
Just as America has McDonalds, Georgia has
Samikitno-Machakhela a popular restaurant chain
with several locations in Tbilisi. They have English men-
us complete with photos, so theres no excuse for not
trying all the well-known traditional Georgian food at
reasonable prices. We especially recommend their
khachapuri ajaruli! Open 24/7 (Meidan Square, 16Kote
Marjanishvili, 5Dimitri Arakishvili)
than average, but you will have a front row seat to
Central Station
St. George
Statue
Freedom
Sq.
traditional wedding clothes
12 Has your Georgian friend invited you to a wed-
ding? Samoseli Pirveli has all of the traditional garments
you might need to look like a real Georgian. Although
quality has its price, it is cool just to come and see where
we buy or rent our traditional clothes for special occa-
sions. Mon Sun 11:0020:00. (22Chavchavadze)
planet of the little prince
13
Nika Future life rescuer.
Even though The Round Garden
tip
is effectively a roundabout for cars,
loc
you feel really isolated here. In the
center, there is a fountain depicting
the Little Prince and the planets he
itself is a planet full of birzha
14 the fashion spot
Can you imagine the combination of a design-
er clothes boutique, great coffee shop and a beautiful
garden? Thats O Moda Moda! Its a gathering place
for fashion professionals and enthusiasts. Whether
you come to have a quick peek into the world of
fashion or stay awhile and chill in the relaxed environ-
ment, you wont regret it. The prices are a bit higher
drink selfie
spot
shop drinking
fountain SUPRA
eat info If you want to eat like a Georgian, you should you want to have your own supra, just find
experience a supra, a traditional Georgian a nice restaurant ( ), order lots of food, and
go out railway dinner with a large gathering of family and share. Every supra should have a tamada
station friends, based on the sharing of both food a person who proposes the toast before
chill hospital and stories. Supra is an important part of every drink. Being a Tamada is a complicat-
our social life and can be held several times ed art to master and the best idea is to find
a week to celebrate anything from a wedding a local who will teach you the ropes.
to a random encounter with old friends. If
WHAT TO ORDER
Badrijani are types of wine. And since they can provide
Cold dish composed of slices eggplants with you with energy for a whole day, Georgian
walnuts and pomegranate seeds. Looks great warriors always carried some with them!
and tastes even better.
Dedas puri
Lobio Even our folk tales are based on bread. Dedas
Kidney beans with coriander, onion, garlic, puri, a boat-shaped bread from our mothers,
and lots of different spices served in a clay is baked in special bottomless ovens made of
clay and dug deep in the ground.
Khachapuri Pkhali
Basically a cheese-filled dough. After some (Vegetables + walnuts) x spices + pomegran-
time spent eating khachapuri you will prob- ate seeds = Most delicious pure ever. Be
ably need to loosen your belt. It comes in sure to taste the spinach one.
many forms and shapes, with Imeruli being
the most common. For a really big supra, or- Ojakhuri
der a titanic adjaruli in one of the Machakhela Basically, fried potatoes with any roasted
restaurants. meat (usually pork). A delicious and juicy dish
for any meat lover.
Khinkali
These dumplings are usually filled with meat, Wine
but you can find versions with cheese or There is evidence that Georgia might have
mushrooms, too. Eating khinkali has its own been the first country to produce wine. We
special rules: grab it by the upper part (a sort still follow traditional methods of making
of nub of dough), bite a small hole in it, and wine in big clay jars called kvevri, and are
suck out the juice inside. Then you can pro- very proud of our wine. Wine shop owners
ceed to eat the rest except the upper part, will be happy to tell you more about this
which we dont eat. Watch out and dont spill passion, and maybe even let you taste some
any juice on your plate, since it is considered (numbers).
shameful.
Chacha and cognac
Soko sulguni If you want to take some chacha (grape liq-
Yes, we really love cheese. We sometimes uor) or cognac back home, visit (near Carre-
even fill mushrooms with it. four).
Churchkhela
Who needs snickers when you can have wal-
nuts on a rope dipped in grape juice? There
are as many colours of churchkhela as there
Justice House
khinkali
Sameba
Church
chacha
wine
khachapuri
Orkhevi
dedas puri lobio
soko sulguni
Tamada
Bridge of Peace
Statue
Narikala Church
Purchase a metromani card (2GEL re- station at 8:45 and 18:05. You can easily get
fundable, but keep your receipt) at the met- there by taxi for 1425GEL.
Mother of Georgia
65 Abano ro stations and top up it there. With this card
you pay 0.50GEL per metro or bus ride and From these places you can take a marshrut-
it is valid for the next 90min. Just dont ka or shared car to different locations out of
forget to use this card when re-entering the city. Both of them usually wait until they
Georgian fashion and great food and drinks to help or switching lines it will not charge you are full so do not expect any schedule.
you relax. Mon Sun 11:001:00. (64Vasil Barnov) again. Another option is to use a marshrut-
ka (minibus) for 0.80GEL. Didube metro station
work that clay
15 This small atelier is a must for fans of modern ce- Kutaisi, Batumi, Borjomi, Mtskheta, Gori,
ramics. Workshop is a shop-cum-studio run by a couple ka Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), Akhaltsikhe or
ut
of Georgians who not only sell their products here but Kobuleti.
r
marsh
also provide pottery courses. You might see something
youd like to buy if only it were in a different colour No
Station sq. metro station
problem! Here they will happily create bespoke pieces
Kutaisi, Kobuleti, Batumi, Rustavi, Mestia
for you. Mon Sun 11:0020:00. (22/26Janashia)
al a hideaway Avlabari metro station
16
Its not easy to find a place like this in the mid- Yerevan
dle of chaotic Tbilisi, but once you discover the oasis of
peace and silence that is Caf book corner, youll find
Find the bus routes on
transit.ttc.com.ge Ortachala Central Automobile Station
it almost impossible to leave. A popular meeting place
of contemporary Georgian writers, its the ideal spot to Yerevan, Telavi, Sighnaghi
share with a friend. Soak in the pleasant atmosphere and for marshrutkas on
together, or just grab a couple of books and relax tm.ge/routes/site.php. Politeknikuri (Technical University)
Mo Sun 11:003:00. (13bTarkhnishvili) metro station
Bus #37 goes to the airport between 7:00 Rustavi
getting local with the locals
17 Mostly concealed from view, Mapshalia truly is
and 23:00. Train for 0.50GEL goes from the
a hidden gem of local Georgian food at great prices. Tbilisi central railway station at 7:55 and Samgori station
Here youll meet plenty of Georgians drinking chacha 17:20 and from the airport to the railway Sighnaghi
and enjoying supras together! Mon Sun 09:00
22:00. (137Aghmashenebeli)

5th Century
The King Who Founded Tbilisi
According to legend, King Vakhtang Gorga-
sali founded Tbilisi. While hunting, the kings
trusty falcon caught a pheasant, but unfor-
tunately both birds fell into a hot spring.
Luckily, no one was too upset because they
were cooked and ready for dinner. The king
thought the hot springs in the area were
cool and decided to build the city there.
711th Century Tbilisi Emirate
For a period of 400 years Tbilisi was under
Arab rule. The city managed to thrive from
trading with the Middle East and flourished
culturally. Tbilisi was mainly populated by
Muslims and influenced by the culture they
brought to the table.
11121235 The Golden Period
The Georgian King David the Builder (Davit
Agmashenebeli) was a man with a plan and
managed to work his way into the hearts of
the Muslim people by showing them toler-
ance and winning their loyalty. He devel-
oped the city as an economic power known
for its production of weapons, jewellery,
leather and silk. Tbilisi became a multi-eth-
nic metropolis in the center of a trade route
linking Europe and Asia. Davids legacy con-
tinued up to Queen Tamar (11841207), his
great-granddaughter.
12361795 When Hell Broke Loose
In this period Tbilisi had more rulers than
Liz Taylor had husbands. First the Mongols
raided the city, then Timurids, Turkmen,
Persians, and Ottoman Turks. From the 16th
century, Tbilisi was mainly under Iranian
control. At the end of the 19th century Irans
power faded, so King Erekle II, used this to
his advantage by making Tbilisi the cap-
ital of eastern Georgia. The Iranians didnt
appreciate this and burned the city to the
ground. Thats why its hard to find buildings
that predate 1795 in Tbilisi. The cherry on
the cake was that the Russian empire, who
had made an agreement to protect the city
with King Erekle II, backed down on their
promise and took over the land in 1800.
Being aware of little things will make
your life in Tbilisi easier
In case of emergency call 112.
Our currency is called Lari (GEL) and the
small ones are Tetri.
The free city wi-fi Tbilisi Loves You unfor-
tunately doesnt love you most of the time.
It usually works only in metro stations and
on Liberty Square. Better to rely on wi-fi
places from our list.
You dont need to leave tips, they are al-
ready included in the bill as 1015% fee. But
we still leave some coins starting from a few
Tetri to a few Lari.
USE-IT is tourist info for young people: made by locals, no-nonsense and up-to-date. Want
to stay posted about the new maps coming? Please like www.facebook.com/USE-IT
This is the first edition of USE-IT Tbilisi map proudly published
by Youth Association DRONI in October 2015. Thanks to the
European Commission Erasmus+ Programme and all our part-
ners for essential support.
Publisher Youth Association DRONI, Shartava 41, 0160, Tbilisi
18011992 Russian Roulette
Earlier, Tbilisi was mostly influenced by Mid-
dle Eastern culture. This all changed when
the Russians swept in. Tbilisis connection
to the west strengthened with new roads
and railroads, and the architecture acquired
a new more European look. In 1917, Tbilisi
once again became the capital of The In-
dependent Democratic Republic of Georgia.
Nothing lasts forever, though, and with the
birth of the USSR in 1921, Tbilisi once again
fell under Russian control. As the commu-
nist bloc started to diminish, protests in Tbi-
lisi became more frequent and climaxed in
1989 with the April 9 tragedy where several
people were injured and killed during a pro-
test in the city.
Modern Day Tbilisi
After the messy dissolution of the Soviet
Union in 1991 came an even more trou-
blesome period in the 90s that started with
a brief civil war after which mafia and cor-
ruption flourished. The president at that
time, Edvard Shevardnadze, ruled the
country using questionable methods. (Have
you seen the movie The Godfather? Then
you probably get the idea). Things turned
for the better after the Rose Revolution in
2003 where 100,000 people protested after
a shady governmental election, thereby
ending the Shevardnadze era. Since then,
Tbilisi has had a quiet period (not counting
2008, when Russia came for a quick visit
again), and things are looking up in the hot,
chaotic capital of Georgia.
June 2015 Hippo in the Downtown
At the beginning of summer Tbilisi dominat-
ed the pages of the international newspaper,
after the quick one-night flood destroyed
an area around a usually small river Mziuri.
Unfortunately, one of the most affected
places was Tbilisi Zoo. Some of the animals
managed to save themselves by escaping
and they hit the streets of the city. The most
popular runner was the hippo named Begi,
that also became a symbol of peoples soli-
darity and readiness to volunteer in cleaning
the remains of a natural disaster.
Shops open at ten, food markets around
nine. A lot of grocery stores are open 24/7.
Museums and galleries are usually closed
on Mondays.
For charging transport cards, buying train
tickets, and charging your phone balance
for Georgian SIM cards use a machines
called a paybox, which closely resembles
a free-standing ATM and are on almost
every corner. Be careful they dont give
change.
Free USE-IT app
Youth Associ ation
DRONI
middle east in the downtown
18 Arte Garden is a nice and quiet park on Aghmash-
enebeli street, a nice place if you want to chill, drink
free water from the fountain, and listen to the gentle
cacophony of neighbourhood televisions. Aghmashen-
ebeli street itself is very beautiful, built in the eighteenth
and nineteenth centuries. The place is full of Turkish,
Arab and Georgian restaurants and cafes. Its a nice spot in the middle of the hidden yard.
to explore Middle Eastern culture whilst staying in Tbilisi.
pray at phallus
19 The Open Air Ethnographic Museum shows the
differing ways of life throughout Georgias many re-
gions 200 years ago. The guides here will not bore you,
simply reciting knowledge at you as if from a text book.
They are gonna show you every interesting detail and
curiosity. As such, you definitely wont miss the giant
stone penis which served as an idol for those who could
not fall pregnant. There are also concerts of folk music
and dance performances during weekends. Thu Sun
10:0018:00. (1Turtle Lake Road)
hidden chill out zone
20 Just when you least expect it, tucked away behind
an open air gym and kids park, there is a great chill-out
area. Everything is allowed in Vitamin Cube. Youll find
swings, beanbags, shisha and much more. During the
course of the evening, the atmosphere changes from
chill to party. The prices are above Georgian average
with beer costing 8. Mon Sun 16:00 ?. (Turtle Lake)
21 lake out of turtles
Sadly, there is no public transport to Turtle Lake
(and no turtles either) so you must either take a taxi from
the Vake Park (4GEL) or walk. After a lake-side break
to prepare your muscles, go for a walk around the lake
(counterclockwise) and follow the small path which
leads you to the hill above. We guarantee the stunning
views here are well worth the exercise. However, If you
seriously just want to chill, rent a paddle boat: 5GEL for
30minutes.
living legend
22 Ucha Hiking freak. During the
summer, Canudos Ethnic Bar is full every
night, but theres always lots of space tip
local
for newcomers. Chill in the courtyards
empty fountain or warm up inside next
TV Tower
to the fireplace on a cool winters eve.
Popular among both locals and expats.
Mon Sun 16:003:00. (Javakhishvili,
under the bridge)
silent emotion
23 Even if you dont know a word of Georgian, you
can still see a play in the Pantomime theatre and under-
stand everything. This was the first ever pantomime the-
atre founded in the whole of the USSR. The over-exag-
gerated gestures of the artists speak louder than words
and, in the mirrors, you can test if you have the talent
to be a pantomime performer yourself. (37Rustaveli
Avenue)
24 khinkali paradise
This restaurant is one of the most popular khinkali
destinations in Tbilisi! From the outside, House of Kh-
inkali doesnt look like much, but inside youll find three
underground stories. So, if youre visiting Tbilisi in a large
group, this place is highly recommended. Open 24/7
(37Rustaveli)
let s party
25
Cafe-Gallery is one of the few gay-friendly estab-
lishments in the city. It has 2floors and the DJ knows his
stuff. The place is quite secure and entrance is strict-
ly controlled, but once you get in its a party all night
long. Mon Sun 21:00 until the last guest leaves.
(48Rustaveli)
26 working place
Prosperos Books & Calibans Coffeehouse merg-
es a calm bookstore and caf with really good WiFi. Got
some unfinished work in your backpack? No worries,
youve just found the perfect place to finish it. In love
with books? Well, ditto. The large selection of Georgian
history books and travel guides in English will satiate
your curiosity. Mon Sun 9:3020:00. (34Rustaveli)
beer and songs
27 Walking along Rustaveli Avenue and wondering
how to get cozy and crazy at the same time? Then
you should definitely visit Riffer: a tiny, though al-
ways crowded, underground bar. Riffer bar organizes
karaoke events 2 or 3times a week (usually Tuesday,
Thursday and Saturday) and its free to join. Mon Sun
18:003:00. (28Rustaveli)
grandpa s favorite hangout
28 It took a long time for the Laghidze Khachapu-
ri Place to reopen, but now you can finally enjoy their
cheesy khachapuri and bean-stuffed lobiani again!
Tbilisi natives have long been listening to their grand-
parents talk about this place, old Ma and Pa seemingly
often missed classes as a result of getting stuck there
much longer than intended. The lemonade, made using
Mr Laghidzes secret recipe (1GEL), is a must. Ask the
bartender to mix different flavors for you. Mon Sun
10:0023:00. (24Rustaveli)
jazz paradise
29 Lika International Law Student. The
headline says it all. Zazanova is one of the
rare places in Tbilisi where a jazz enthusiast
local
can relax and enjoy an evening of live
tip
classic jazz, good food and a service
second to none. If you are searching for
a relaxing night out in town, dont think
twice about visiting Zazanova. Mon
Sun 12:002:30. (2Revaz Laghidze)
pallet heaven
30 Ever fancied having your ass kicked at back-
gammon while drinking a 3GEL beer? DIVE Bar is the
place to go! The bars interior is almost entirely made
of pallets, and youll meet a mix of travellers, expats and
ocals competing in the highly popular sport of beer
pong. Sun Thu 18:001:00, Fri Sat 18:003:00.
(12Revaz Laghidze)
little hidden paradise
31 Lela Freedom seeker. Hide
from the rush of the city by entering the
Bike Sculpture
yellow metal door into this secret oasis!
Sofia Melnikovas Fantastic Douqan
local tip
offers shade under a canopy of leafy
vines, or amongst the trees and bushes
The caf/restaurant serves refreshing
homemade lemonades and delicious
cuisine, with Georgian, oriental and
European dishes. While you are enjoying
your peaceful moment, a local cat
might come and keep you company.
To get there, go through Tabukashvili
Street and up into Stamba street (which
is a dead end), and its just behind the
striped Rustaveli Theatre. Mon Sun
12:002:00. (22Tabukashvili)
young georgian design
32 Alternative art really exists in the city. 17kvadrati
is full of crafts and extraordinary souvenirs from young
designers. The owner makes artistic book covers and
offers some of his space to Georgian artists so they can
exhibit their work. From unusual packs of matches and
handmade jewellery to notebooks and leather goods -
youll find something special to take home. Mon Sun
12:0023:00. (8Gia Chanturia)
framed picture of stalin
33 Are you desperately searching for Stalins painting
or Lenins bust? Do you urgently need a gasmask? Dry
Bridge Bazaar is the place to go. Here you can really
find these strange curiosities and buy unique souvenirs
such as antique vases and Georgian jewellery. Dont
forget to practice your bargaining skills! Mon Sun
10:0018:00.
hipster paradise
34
The Tbilisi Flea Market is a great place to meet
the hip youngsters of Tbilisi selling homemade T-shirts,
bags and much more. The flea market is in a park, so its
also a great spot to hangout if you want to chill. Every
other summer Sunday 12:0018:00.
the language that rocks
35
Places where you can just sit on the grass are
scarce in Tbilisi, but Deda Ena Park is one of them and
its the ideal place for a picnic. There is a skatepark too,
so you can watch youngsters doing their tricks or show
off your own skills. The statue of Deda Ena (Mother
Tongue) in the middle of the park commemorates the
victory of Georgian language, which was almost re-
placed by Russian during the Soviet era. Mass protests
in 1978 resulted in the Georgian people preserving their
beautiful language.
36 dali s dream
Mtatsminda amusement park is a very popular
place for local families to have some fun. There are two
ways to get here buses 90 and 124 from Lermontovi
Street or the funicular from Vilnius square. For this, you
have to buy a card for 2GEL and each ride costs an-
other 2GEL. (you can use one card for many people!)
The attractions such as carrousels, water slides and
a roller-coaster probably wont thrill you, but some of
them look really surreal (especially the at the entrance).
At sunset, the views over the city from the platform be-
low the ferris wheel are unforgettable. Entrance is free.
Mon Sun 9:0023:00.
pirosmani s code
37 In early 1900s, while he was alive, famous Geor-
gian painter Niko Pirosmani never thought that his paint-
ings would ever be exhibited in the National Gallery of
Georgia, nor that they would be greatly admired by its
many visitors. For 5GEL you can take a good look at his
paintings and get trapped within the safety of his de-
tailed lions and soldiers proudly standing guard around
the gallery walls. You can also see paintings from other
famous Georgian painters and try to decode the mean-
ing of the abstract artworks. Tue Sun 10:0018:00.
(11Rustaveli)
38 baby stone
The name Kashveti Church literally means giv-
ing birth to a stone. Although the modern building was
built at the beginning of the 20th century, previously
there was another church in this spot which Georgians
have a legend about. According to the tale, a holy monk
was accused of a love affair by a pregnant woman in or-
der to damage his reputation. However, the woman had
to bear a severe punishment from God and gave birth
to a stone, which was a heavenly sign of the monks
innocence. Dont worry, the legend is not the most ex-
citing thing about this church its walls were painted
in 1947 by one of the most famous Georgian painters,
Lado Gudiashvili.
timeline of georgia
39 There are many exhibitions in the National Muse-
um. On the first floor, you can find the first appearance
of statuette of Tamada (the toastmaster) and examples
of golden jewellery from the times of Jason and Medea.
If you are more into recent history, you can attend an
emotional and detailed guided tour about Georgias So-
viet occupation and its victims. Thu Sun 10:0018:00.
(3Rustaveli)
truly local air
40
Qristy Student of International Relations. If
you truly want to see a place in Tbilisi where only lo-
cals go (and maybe a few travelers who wandered in
by accident), Cafe bar Flashback is the place for you.
Conveniently located 5 min from the Freedom Square,
its the perfect place once youre bored of the Old town.
Dont wait for the waitress to approach you, just go to
the bar even if its empty, (someone will show up for
sure) and treat yourself with an ice cold beer for 3GEL.
Mon Sun 19:0001:00. (19Atoneli)
41 underground on the third floor
Pirimze is a place where beautiful people spend
calm evenings and wild nights, far away from the gaze
of others. Cheap drinks and the intimacy of a subterra-
nean locale, there is even a flower market nearby in case
you fall in love. Mon Sun 16:002:00. (18Atoneli)
summer traditional
garden restaurant
non wifi
smoking
cheap
place
cheap and homemade
42 Patara Bazari Small Bazaar is the best place
to get homemade products for low prices in the centre.
Cheese and spices are nice, but we come here for great
homemade honey, cognac (12GEL/liter) and chacha
(6GEL/liter). Tasting included, bargaining is a must! Mon
Sun: 10:0021.00. (Atoneli/Purtseladze)
no passive smoking
43 Decorated in old Tbilisi style with vintage furniture
and pastel colours, Amo Rame is a hidden jewel near
the center of the city. What really makes Amo Rame
a special place is that its a non-smoking cafe (smok-
ers still have the option of sitting in a cute garden). Its
rare to stumble upon a non-smoking cafe in Tbilisi, be-
lieve us, its far more likely that a driver will stop to let
you cross, and thats saying something. The menu is
quite European, but every weekend they serve a tasty
Khinkali and every Friday evening there is live piano music.
Mon Sun: 12:0000:00. (4P.Ingorokva)
polish refuge
44 Qristy
Student of International
Relations. Warszawa is located in the
heart of the city center. Its a regular stop
local
for foreigners and a good place to pre-
tip
game before hitting the clubs. Every drink
costs 2GEL, including the local speciality
chachacello. All the vitaminC you need!
Mon Sun 10:004:00. (19Pushkin)
45 gift for your grandmother
Aristaeus specialises in Georgian products such as
honey, jams, jellies, spices and a variety of local cheeses
produced in Georgian monasteries. The prices are a bit
higher here than in other shops as your products come
beautifully wrapped to take with you for your nearest
and dearest. Mon Sun 13:0023:00. (19Pushkin)
St. George
Statue
Freedom Sq.
first and only vegan cafe
46 The non-profit Kiwi Caf is not only a place where
you can try delicious vegan food, theres also a regis-
tered BookCrossing zone and social center with various
events entry is always free. Food and drink prices
(smoothies, homemade lemonade, wine and more) are
never over 5GEL and the menu, excluding their famous
falafel, changes slightly almost every day. Mon Sun
12:0023:00. (41Vertskhli)
47 a place from wonderland
Let Our Tears Come Only From Cutting Onions.
This optimistic slogan is written in gold at the entrance
of Gabriadze Theatre. The building has a clock tower
with a golden haired angel and lots of puppets appear-
ing at 12:00 and 19:00, making a life circle. The theatre
also has a pomegranate tree on its roof to boot! In short,
this place is straight out of wonderland. The theaters
cafe not only serves food but good music and a wel-
coming atmosphere even if your Georgian is probably
not good enough to understand an actual play. Mo
Sun from 11:00 until the last guest leaves. (13Shavteli)
get your supra on
48 Nini Party queen. Racha is nothing fancy, but
its a favorite with the locals. This is one of the cheapest
places to have a supra, so bring your friends and have
the supra time of your life. Mon Sun, 11:0022:00
(6/20 M.Lermontovi)
ragnarok
49 Ever get the sudden urge to drink like a Viking
and throw knives into ancient shields hanging on a wall?
One word: Valhalla. Mon Thur 18:001:00, Fri Sun
18:002:30. (3Iveria)
birzha and love all at once
50 Gudiashvili square is a very peaceful spot in the
heart of Old Tbilisi. Here you will find a beautiful foun-
tain of lovers hiding under an umbrella and you cant
Justice House
Tamada
Bridge of Peace
Statue
Narikala Church
Mother of Georgia
ask for much more romantic than that! Relax in the
shade for a while and enjoy silence. The hustle of the
city melts into the distance. This is also a really popular
birzha spot so dont miss the opportunity to learn back-
gammon from the real masters.
fanciest toilets in tbilisi
51 Nini Party queen. PurPur is one
of the most romantic restaurants in town,
mainly because of its stylized, colorful
interior and delicious food its a bit more
expensive, but totally worth the price. local t
Relax on one of the tiny balconies, inspect
the surroundings and feel time slowing
down. Food aside, this place is also worth
visiting because of the toilets. You will
understand. Mon Sun 11:002:00.
(1Abo Tbileli)
52 piece of weimar expressionism
With a minimalistic, artsy atmosphere inspired
by the German school of architecture, Bauhaus Caf
is a great spot for afternoon relaxation and, better yet,
evening mingling. You can catch local DJs playing
here from time to time, and since Bauhaus is so small,
these events feel just like an old school block party.
Mon Sun 16:002:00. (5Abo Tbileli)
the chacha experience
53 Mukuzani sells Georgian wines, lots of them. Nat-
urally, since its a wine shop. But what makes this place
special is the selection of homemade wine and chacha.
There are a few tables and a bar where you can taste
their products before buying. We especially recom-
mend the homemade chacha with mint, but you can
choose from many different types. Gaumarjos! Mon
Sun 11:002:00. (15/27Kote Abkhazi)
see hostel
drink selfie
spot
shop drinking CLASSIC ON A PLATE (2,53h)
fountain
A When exploring the old town with sou- an unusual tower clock, an old cinema, a the-
eat info venirs, wine shops, restaurants and pubs atre and lots of cafes. Finish your walk on the
you will see Sioni church which used to be Tbi- street of contrasts - Baratashvili where you will
go out railway lisis major cathedral. Its also home to St.Ni- find old buildings with traditionally decorated
station nos cross, which is made from grapevine twig wooden balconies and square glass buildings
chill hospital entwined with her own hair. St.Nino preached facing each other.
and spread Christianity in Georgia in the 4th
century. On your way, youll meet the Monu- URBAN TOUR (1,5 h)
ment of Tamada.
There is a story saying that Arabs built
A
Crossing the river, visit Metekhi Church a canal here, which in their language is
B
which was built by King Vakhtang Gorga- sululakh and because of this, the area got its
sali and has been damaged and rebuilt so many, name. Todays Sololaki looks exactly as it did in
many times since. This view over the Mtkvari the end of the 19th century. Walk through tiny
river is one you will find on many Georgian streets surrounded by amazing architecture
postcards and the big statue of King Vakhtang and wonderful wooden balconies over your
Gorgasali is always ready for a high-five. Walk- head. Dont be afraid to get lost there each
ing uphill you can stop to see Darejan Palace street will amaze you, and each gate hides
with an amazing panorama of Tbilisi. a unique stairwell or yard.
In the Armenian neighborhood, you will Walking uphill you will reach a path go-
C B
find Tbilisi Holy Trinity Cathedral com- ing along it, and on your left you will have
monly known as Sameba the main Georgian a wide view of the city. If you still have the en-
Orthodox Christian cathedral. It dominates the ergy to climb a few more stairs, take the ones
Sameba
city skyline with its massive 86.1meters and going up to the right to see the monument of
Church
not surprisingly its the largest religious build- Mother of Georgia. Otherwise start your way
ing, not only in Georgia but in the region of down.
South Caucasus.
C Going downhill, you will see the Armeni-
an-style Holy Mother of God Church of
D Walk downhill, next to Presidence Pal- Bethlehem. It consists of two buildings: up-
ace to Rike Park, which hosts numerous
carousels and roller-coasters. You can take per and lower and now works as a Georgian
Orthodox church. King Vakhtang Gorgasali,
Orkhevi
a break here or go by cable car to Narikala Hill
and back. founder of the city, was buried here. Next to
it there is a lovely place with good view of the
Go through the Bridge of Peace. It was city where you can make a stop and chill a bit.
E
designed to resemble a marine animal,
however locals call it Always Ultra as it pretty D In the end of this walk you will probably
much looks like a sanitary napkin. be tired, so the best idea is to finish with
dinner and wine in a traditional Georgian res-
On the other side of the river, you will
F taurant.
find a narrow street, where you can find
stalin s wine cellar reason for tbilisi
58 At Old Cellar the wine tasting is free and, more
64 This is the area where King Vakhtang Gorgasa-
importantly, the owner is a funny guy who will not only lis falcon was boiled in the sulfur waters, and thus, he
share his knowledge of wine, but also tell you the histo- founded Tbilisi. Nowadays, this area has been turned
ry of the wine shop. This shop doesnt have the private into an Abanotubani (district of baths in Georgian). Walk
collection of Stalins wine, but is one of the many places around and see the beautiful mosaics of the Queen
Stalin hid during 1917. Mon Sun 9:003:00. (51Kote of Baths Orbeliani and the domes of the Royal Bath
Aphkhazi) House. There are a total of five abanos, and if you take
the Russian poet Pushkins advice, you will visit one and
i mom
59 Giorgi Manager of likes. Say hello
enjoy the best sulphur bath of your life.
green all the way
to Deda (which means mother in Georgian).
65 If the hustle and bustle of the cars is annoying you,
This enormous statue represents the
Mother of Georgia and its impossible to come to the National Botanical Garden of Tbilisi and
local t
miss since its visible from almost every- get lost in the tranquil sound of the birds. Venture deep-
ip
where. She welcomes the friends of Geor- er into the gardens and discover the waterfalls, smell the
gia with a bowl of wine, but at the same wild rosemary, hug the pine trees and get in touch with
time threatens the countrys enemies with mother nature. Because of its secluded and peaceful lo-
a sword. Reach her by a cable car from cation, this place is perfect for a romantic evening with
Europe Square for a special experience. that special someone Mon Sun 10:0017:00.
sunnis and shia all together
stairway to heaven 66
60 Tbilisi Mosque is the only one in the world where
After exactly 144stairs, you will reach this charm- Shia and Sunni pray together. Feel free to go inside for
ing cafe with a view over the old town and the river
a closer look and to debate peacefully with the Eng-
side. It has its own king, a big gray cat, and you can see
lish-speaking keeper about different religions. Entrance
paintings of it in the tiny gallery inside. In order to get
Abano is free.
a table on the extended balcony, you have to spend over
100GEL, otherwise, you can sit anywhere else and get lay down in stalin s bed
lost in the moment. Mon Sun 12:003:00. (27Be-
67 The spirit of Stalin is still in the air! And its really
tlemi) intense in Stalins Illegal Printing house Museum. This
is where he used to design his leaflets, print newspa-
bill in a shell
log out 61 pers and plan the revolution. The tour is 5GEL and the
54 This place is hype! Despite being hidden in a base-
Carpe Diem is so tiny that anyone taller than Na- guide a former KGB agent will both shock and
poleon Bonaparte needs to bend his head down when entertain you as he ushers you around the museum.
ment, in a small side street, it is crowded almost every they go to the toilet. Located right next to the church, in A Georgian or Russian speaking friend is essential and if
evening! Zoestan is owned by a French girl named Zoe, the very heart of old Tbilisi, its cosy terrace is the place you are an American, you probably shouldnt mention it.
who spent 8years in Tbilisi and therefore knows exactly where youll find refreshment (try ice tea for 6GEL) after To get there, take the metro to 300Aragveli, then follow
what the locals need. Here you have a chance to real- walking around the old city. The bill will probably sur-
Queen Ketevan Avenue and turn left into Kaspi Street,
ly focus on your friends, as the old school brick walls prise you not because of prices, but because of the way Mon Sun 10:0020:00. (7Kaspi)
prevent the mobile signal from reaching you. This place it is delivered. Mon Sun 12:001:00. (5Samghebro)
also offers laid-back atmosphere, traditional Georgian
68 tbilisi s facelift
gigs and cool drinks. Mon Sun 17:001:00/2:00. brewery and live music Form your own opinion of Tbilisis futuristic ar-
(5Vakhtang Beridze) 62 Sofio Ultimate volunteer. Resto- chitecture while walking across the Bridge of Peace,
rani Alani is a restaurant and brewery divid- which locals call Always Ultra. Pass pipe-shaped build-
ip
meet the creatives
55 The concentration of hipness is quite high in
ed into two parts. If youre not interested ings, which will later serve as an exhibition and concert
in eating and just want to taste their beer local t space (but are not yet finished and are therefore as yet
Moulin Electrique, a meeting point for local artists. They
for 2GEL, stay at street level; otherwise, unnamed); hide in the shade of the giant mushrooms
ip
serve great coffee and delicious food. Prices are rea-
go to the basement. If youre lucky, youll growing from the roof of the House of Justice; or sim-
sonable despite the location in the city center. Sit in-
see supras and national dances and no ply gaze up at the Avlabari residence, which is a fusion of
doors and play with their friendly cat or take a seat in
matter what, youre sure to hear live music. the German Bundestag and the American White house.
the courtyard which the caf shares with a synagogue!
Mon Sun, 9:0024:00 (1Gorgasali)
Mon Fri 10:301:00, Sat Sun 11:301:00. (1Tkavi be frantic, dance wild
Dead End) 69
let s get smelly
A place like Bassiani is hard to imagine if youve
all the lights of tbilisi 63 never experienced it for yourself; its an eclectic space
56 To reach Cafe Flowers you have to climb 97stairs,
Sofio Ultimate volunteer. Trying a sulphur bath
for musical events, art installations and workshops with
which are behind the fountain in Rike Park. However,
in Tbilisi is a must. Abano no.5 is the right place to get
plenty of style and attitude. The minimalist interior, open
this unique experience. The public bath is separated into
floor plan, supersonic sound and mesmerizing visuals
The view is definitely worth the effort, especially when mens and womens sections and has an authentic Sovi-
are the defining characteristics of Bassiani that make
you see the night sky over Tbilisi. Just find the right table et character (3GEL). The private rooms are fancier, with
you want to dance like theres no tomorrow. You will
in the beautiful garden and watch the dancing fountain the most expensive (100GEL) having beautiful mosaics
meet DJs hailing from popular clubs in Europe and
show from above. Their service is not the best, but the on the walls, ceilings and sauna. Ignore the strong odour
perfect view more than makes up for it! Mon Sun of rotten eggs and relax in the steeping hot water. You
beyond. Bassiani is highly recommended for any-
one who wants to dance freely and go wild. Fri Sat
12:001:00. (1D.Megreli) dont need soap, just let the sulphur do its job (which it
23:008:00. (Noe Jordania Bank)
will continue to do after youve finished bathing). To get
jumping artist
57 If youre happy and you know it, just jump! This is
skin like a little babys, pay an extra 10GEL for scrubbing
(kisa). You can also combine all this with a massage for
the statue of Sergei Parajanov, an Armenian film direc-
an additional 10GEL. Mon Sun 7:0021:00 (public),
tor from the Soviet Union who made significant con-
24/7 (private pools).
tributions to Ukrainian, Armenian and Georgian cinema.
He really was flying like a bird while he was alive, as the
statue is based on a photo taken a long time ago by Yurii Did you like our map? Do you want to know more? Give us your feedback and send us your tips!
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