June 2017 Full Issue PDF

2
June 2017 Table of Contents

Title Designer Page
In This Issue 3
From the Editors 4
July Sneak Peek 5
Sweet and Creepy Lollipop Tracy Moreau 6-11
Happy Harvest Sign Cindy Pointe 12-17
Buttons n Bats Sharon Cook 18-29
Skeleton Dance Elaina Appleby 30-36
Witch Crafter Sandy LeFlore 37-47
Spooky Betty Bowers 48-51
All Things Halloween Sharon Bond 52-56
Advertising 57-61
But Its So Good Margaret Riley 62
Witches Brew Judy Diephouse 63-67
Trick or Treat Hanger Martha Smalley 68-72
Who Goes There? Chris Haughey 73-78
Candy Corn Dreams and Cheryl Jones 79-83
Halloween Wishes
Wilhelmina Deb Mishima 84-89
Franken Beetle Kelly Hoernig 90-93
Halloween Tag Trio Patricia Jarrett 94-99
Sam Scarecrow Karen Wisner-Dyar 100-105
2018 Theme Calendar 106
Design Call 107
Readers Gallery 108
Copyright Notice:
Copyright 2017 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 12 times per year by Cupboard
Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this
digital magazine. The information in this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and
publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not
guaranteed. Reproduction of editorial content is strictly prohibited without written permission of the
Publisher.
2
In THIS ISSUE
3
From the Editor.
to the spooky, Halloween edition of

Pixelated Palette!
Halloween is my very favorite time of year the brisk feel of autumn brings me back to
some of the best moments of my childhood! I smile when remembering it was my dad
who took me trick or treating every year; once, there was a freak blizzard, but Dad and I
buttoned our jackets, joined hands and went in search of candy!
I recall the fragrance of sweet caramel and candied apples, the
rustling of leaves on my walks to school, nd the slight chill in
the air. Do you remember the vintage Halloween dcor that was
almost on EVERY house? The witches and pumpkins and
black cats. OH MY!
This issue, brimming with 15 fabulous designs, will transport you to the best of
Halloween imagery and is sure to bring a smile to your face! Whether it is Tracy
Moreaus Sweet and Creepy, that combines an eerie skull with gorgeous roses or Karen
Wisner-Dyars Sam Scarecrow, we know that you will enjoy reading this issue as much
as we did putting it together. While the paint is drying, be sure and join us as we look
ahead to 2018. I knowwere only half-way through 2017! However, we are already
accepting submissions for early 2018. Our 2018 Theme Calendar is on page 100. If you
are a designer, we invite you to send us a submission (or two)! Susan and I love to be the
springboard for new designers and we will help you every step of the way!
Happy Painting!
~Lindsey
4
July 2017 Sneak Peek
5
Sweet and Creepy Lollipop
By Tracy Moreau
www.tracymoreau.net
6
I Love Skulls, But I like mine with some bright flowers and happy tones with an underlying edge of
spooky and thrilling. Kinda' Creepy but pretty too!! This is a fun piece with its sparkly metallic
background, and bright colorful flowers, it makes for an elegantly creepy Sign for the front door!!
Enjoy!!
Thanks for playing in my sandbox!
Supplies
Surface:
7 x 11 arched tombstone panel #31-L345; available from www.cdwood.com
Project Supplies:
Harlequin Stencil ST016; available from www.tracymoreau.net
White and Grey Graphite
Standard Painting Supplies
Eraser
Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Aqua Sky DA333 Lamp Black DA067
Asphaltum DA180 Plantation Pine DA113
Bahama Blue DA255 Saffron Yellow DA273
Bright Copper DA337 Sour Apple DA275
Bright Salmon DA329 Splendid Gold DA337
Dioxazine Purple DA101 Sunny Day DA325
Dragon Fruit DA300 Tuscan Red DA265
Frosted Plum DA335 Warm White DA239
Hauser Light Green DA131

Brushes by FM Dynasty: Available at www.TheBrushGuys.com

Dynasty Faux Squirrel Series 1827
#2 Rigger
1/2 Angle
#4 Round
3/4 Flat Wash
Three (3), 1/2 Tracy Moreau Stencil Brush
Dynasty Micron 10/0 detail Liner
Preparation
Background: Easy Peasy! Base coat the surface with Lamp Black. Position the small Harlequin
stencil on the surface, taping it in place to hold it steady.
Lay out the following colors on the palette: Bright Copper, Splendid Gold and Bahama Blue. With 3
stencil brushes (one for each color), apply random patches of color over the stencil, one color at a time
allowing the colors to overlap in a few places and missing some areas as well.
Use the Bahama Blue sparingly; we are just looking for a hint of this color in a few places. The result
should be a sort of multi colored distressed pattern. Remove the stencil, let it dry, reposition the
stencil and repeat until roughly 60% of the surface has pattern on it. (I like it along the top of the
piece and fading out towards the bottom)
7
The Lettering: Thin Warm White, to a milk like consistency; use the #2 Rigger for this to create the
lettering. (The Rigger brush will flatten to a chisel edge and is excellent for painting lettering.)
The lettering is in a beautiful tattoo style; its edgy and elegant; with all of the fine points it can be a
bit challenging, but worth it in the end! The trick here is to keep the brushes clean and the paint thin,
like milk. Try to pull the longer elements in a single stroke; that will give the lettering fluidity and they
will appear crisp and clean even if they are NOT fully opaque. Use the Micron brush for the fine
scrolls and tiny flourishes, whenever possible, pull these is one stroke as well. Rinse your brush after
each segment. This will keep the paint consistent and the brush will be easier to control.
The Skull: The Skull is based with Warm White (Note: I usually only apply two coats, whether it is
fully opaque or not is irrelevant. The irregularities created by the Black base color showing through in
places helps create the coarse surface of the Skull.) The Skull is shaded on the left side and along the
edge of the crown, with multiple floats of Asphaltum, (I walk it out a bit to about 1/3 of the width of
the skull). Add a final float of thinned Lamp Black to deepen it at the edges. A narrower and weaker
float of Asphaltum is applied to the right side of the skull and to the details under the eyes, the brow
line and under the nose.
The Spider Web: Using the Dynasty Micron, stroke in the fine lines of the web with thinned Warm
White; add small dip dots of Warm White in a few spots. Let dry.
The Lollipop Stick: Base coat the bands alternating with Dragon Fruit and Warm White. Shade the
Dragon Fruit with a float of Tuscan Red; shade the Warm White with Thinned Prussian Blue. Deepen
both shadows with a float of Asphaltum, the full length of the Stick. Highlight on the right side with a
float of Warm White (come in about 1/8 inch from the edge of the stick). Add a final light impact
point with a fine stroke of Warm White over the float. Be sure to deepen the shadow under the flower
petals.
The Crown: Base the body of the crown with Splendid Gold; base the trim and band with Bright
Copper. Base the Gemstones with Dragon Fruit. Shade the details of the Crown with floats of Lamp
Black. Add highlights to the upper right side of the crown and tines, with fine lines of Warm White.
Shade the Gem Stones with a float of Tuscan Red on the left side of each stone. Deepen it with a weak
float of thinned Lamp Black. Highlight the stones on the right side with a float of thinned Warm
White. Add a small dip Dot of Warm White for the Light Impact Point. NOTE: The Gem in the Right
Eye Socket is painted the same way.
The Flowers: The Flowers Petals are based with the following: Frosted Plum, Dragon Fruit, Bright
Salmon and Aqua Sky. Refer to the pictures for Placement.
Each of these colors is shaded with the darkest value toward the center of the flower as follows:
Aqua Sky -Prussian Blue, Bright Salmon -Tuscan Red, Frosted Plum- Diox Purple, Dragon Fruit -
Tuscan Red. Highlight with three small, floated C Strokes of Warm White onto the tips of the petals.
The outside edges are over stroked with a fine line of thinned Warm White. The Centers of the flowers
are based with Sunny Day, and then a wash of Saffron Yellow is applied over it. Shade the left side of
each flower center with a float of Persimmon. Deepen this with a float of thinned Asphaltum. Add Dip
Dots of Warm White to the right side of each center and dip dots of Asphaltum to the left side, for a
highlight and a shadow.
Leaves and Vines: The leaves are all based with Hauser Light Green; they are shaded down the
center vein and at the base (under the flowers) with Floats of Plantation Pine. Float a highlight on all
the leaves with Sour Apple.
8
The Vines are a mixture of Hauser Light and Sour Apple and thinned for the fine line work. Using the
Micron Detail brush, stroke in all of the fine vines and tendrils then over stroke them (off set) with a
fine line of thinned Plantation Pine.
9
10
11
Happy Harvest Sign
By Cindy Pointe
12
In one of my junking excursions I came across a very unique bread board. It was long and
narrow with an interesting handle that was flat on the bottom. I thought that it would make an
excellent sign; inspired by the shape, I created this fall design. You can easily adapt this pattern to
fit any rectangular surface, even a plain pine board!
To make surface prep super easy, I used chalk paint; however, you can also substitute acrylic sealer
and black acrylic paint.
Supplies
Surface
Any rectangular surface of choice; adjust the line art to fit your surface.
Project Supplies
Standard Painting Supplies
Simple Green ( if necessary)

Avocado Plum
Banana Cream Red Iron Oxide
Black Plum Soft Black
Burnt Orange Terra Cotta
Dark Chocolate Yellow Ochre
Light Avocado Wisteria
Midnight Green DecoArt Americana Dcor Chalky Finish
Milk Chocolate Carbon
Mediums:
All Purpose Sealer (optional)
Americana Dcor Ultra-Matte Varnish
Brushes
Pattys Flower Filbert/Oval Glaze Brush; available at www.creativeartslifestyle.com
Angle by Royal Aqualon
#2 Round by Royal Aqualon
5/0 Liner by Royal Aqualon
Preparation
If your surface is an old bread board, clean it thoroughly (I use Simple Green), let dry and lightly
sand. If using a regular pine board, sand and wipe with damp cloth.
Base coat your surface with Carbon and when completely dry, transfer pattern.
Note: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.
Painting Instructions
Tip: I prefer to base coat everything first; when completely dry, I add shading and highlighting. Use
the brush you are most comfortable with for basecoating.
13
Base Coats:
Happy: Red Iron Oxide
Harvest: Terra Cotta + Burnt Orange 3:1
Wheat Stalks: Yellow Ochre
Leaves : Avocado
Grape Cluster: Black Plum
Grape Stem: Milk Chocolate
Shading: Dont be concerned if some of the shading ends up on the black base coat. Well do a
clean up when were all done.
Happy Lettering: Shade where the letters cross with Dark Chocolate.
Wheat Stalks: Shade with Milk

Chocolate. Run the chisel edge of your
brush down the left side of each stalk.
Shade the left side and bottom of each
wheat kernel.
Harvest Lettering: Shade with Red Iron Oxide along the

left sides and across the bottom of each letter. On the H,
shade where parts of the letter crosses over itself. Also shade
on either side of the wheat stalk where it crosses over the letter.
On the letter A, shade below the top loop. On the letter V
shade on either side of the curl where it crosses under the wheat stalk.
Leaves: Shade on the bottom and left side of the leaves with Midnight Green.
Grape Cluster: Sketch in or reapply the pattern before shading the grapes.
Shade with Dark Chocolate on the bottom half of the grapes. When dry, do a
second shade slightly smaller with Soft Black.
Grape Stem: Shade the left side of stem with Dark Chocolate.
Highlighting: Sometimes its easiest to use the chisel edge of your brush to
highlight the skinny parts of the letters.
Happy Lettering: Highlight on the right and top sides with Terra Cotta.
Wheat Stalks: Highlight the top of each kernel and the right sides of
each stalk with Banana Cream.
Harvest Lettering: Highlight the tops and

right sides of each letter with Yellow Ochre.
14
Grape Leaves: Highlight the tops and right sides of each leaf with Light
Avocado. Also float a center vein highlight using Light Avocado on each leaf.
See photo above, right, for reference.
Grape Cluster: Highlight any top or side that is opposite of your shading
with Plum. Those grapes that are at the top of the cluster should have more
highlighting value than those hidden behind.
Grape Stem: Highlight right side of stem with Yellow Ochre.
Final Details: Heres where it all comes together; I encourage you to add
your own spin on the embellishments!
Wheat Stalks With thinned Milk Chocolate and a liner brush, pull up lines
from the bottom of each kernel.
Harvest Lettering: Outline letters with Red Iron Oxide. If necessary, slightly thin with a touch of
water; but the goal is to achieve one coat, opaque coverage.
Grape Leaves: Add the veins and leaf stems with thinned Midnight Green.
Once dry, use a liner to stroke on a thin highlight line of Avocado in the center of
each stem. Add light highlights of Black Plum in a few spots on the leaves.
Grape Cluster: Add a comma stroke shine to the left side of grapes with
Wisteria.
Vines: Thin Milk Chocolate and pull the vines using your liner brush.
Finishing
Touch up black base coat as needed; erase any remaining graphite lines.
Always remember to sign your name to your artwork!
When completely dry, following manufacturers instructions, apply at least two coats of Americana
Dcor Ultra-Matte Varnish.
Cindys words of encouragement:

Never be afraid to modify a pattern or a design; change it to fit your own personality.
Think of each published project as a starting point; with this open minded approach,
even if you are not a fan of the overall product, you can add or subtract bits and
pieces of it to create something you love!
15
The line art below is at 100%
You may adjust the size to fit your surface.
16
Line Art
Enlarged to 150%
17
18
By Sharon Cook
Texture, texture, texture!! Thats what screen painting is all about, and why youll love painting this
big-hearted bat on a piece of screen. YesI said screen, the same stuff that could be used on a screen
door or on windows! Made from fiberglass, screen requires no prep; just staple it tightly to the back
of your favorite frame and youre good to go. To add a very special touch, this design is embellished
with hand crafted, beguiling button.
Special THANKS to Barb Stock, owner of Barbs Heartstrokes, for providing the sample screen,
sharing her basic instructions, and warm encouragement. Check out her fabulous work at
www.barbsheartstrokes.etsy.com.
Supplies:
Surface:
Flat Front Frame of your choice with an 11 x 14 opening; available from Michaels
Note: if you chose another style of frame without a flat surface, the sculpted buttons could be made
larger and attached directly to the screen. Also, if you prefer, instead of painting candy corn below the
bat, sculpt them and add them to the screen. Consider adding a dimensional heart to the bats chest
too. The possibilities are endless . . . let your imagination run wild!
Project Supplies:
Fiberglass screen available from Barbs Heartstrokes; barbsheartstrokes@gmail.com.
Staple gun and staples
Aves Apoxie Sculpt Modeling Compound, Super White, Parts A & B; 62642
01202 and 62642 01372; www.avesstudio.com or at www.Amazon.com
Handmade CharlottePaisley Delight Stencil by Folk Art/Plaid; item
#59759; available from Michaels;
http://www.michaels.com/search?q=paisley%20delight%20stencil,
or JoAnns; http://www.joann.com/folkart-handmade-charlotte-stencils---
paisley-delight/13143102.html
Yellow Embroidery Floss, Thin Jute, or Twine
Large Sewing Needle
Household Scissors
Stylus with Large Ball On The End
Sandpaper or Sanding Disk
Grey and White Transfer Paper
E-6000 or Household GOOP Adhesive
Hot Glue Gun and Glue
Saw Tooth Hanger (Optional)
Exacto Knife or Other Type of Small Knife Or Blade
Rolling Pin or Round Object To Roll Out Clay (such as a glass or bottle of paint)
19
Paints by DecoArt Americana:
Bluegrass Green DA047 Light Buttermilk DA164
Brilliant Purple DA353 Mustard Seed DA264
Cotton Candy DA347 Napa Red DA165
Dioxazine Purple DA101 Orange Twist DA266
Dragon Fruit DA300 Peacock Teal DA326
Fawn DA242 Pumpkin DA013
Forest Green DA050 Purple Cow DA272
Grape Juice DA236 Scarlet DA345
Green Tea DA349 Sunny Day DA325
Laguna DA350 Warm White DA239
Lamp Black DA067 Wisteria DA211
Glamour Dust Paints by DecoArt:

Ice Crystal DGD09
Purple Princess DGD22
Mediums/Other Products by DecoArt:

Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer DS17
Americana DuraClear Matte Varnish DS60
Brushes:
La Corneille Script Liner, Sizes 18/8 and 10/0 (Series 7050)
La Corneille Angular Shader, Size 1/2 and (Series 7400)
Loew-Cornell Crescent, Size 1/2 (Series 247) -OR-
Dynasty by FM Brush Company, Mezzaluna, X-Large
Royal Brush Company, Royal Fusion, (3950)
Preparing Your Screen and Frame for Painting
Lightly sand the frame and tack to remove dust. Apply Multi-Purpose Sealer to the front, sides, and
back of the frame. Lightly sand after sealer is dry and tack again to remove dust.
Base the back of the frame, the inside edge and the outside of the frame with Lamp Black.
Cut the fiberglass screen with regular household scissors to the size of your frame opening, and add
an additional 2.5 inches to both the height width. (The additional 2.5 inches will allow you enough
room to staple the screen far enough away from the frame opening that the staples will not be visible
from the front.)
To begin stapling, apply one or two staples through the screen and into the
back of the top of the frame. Thenwhile pulling the screen as tight as
possibleapply one or two staples at the bottom of the frame directly across
from the staples at the top. Repeat on the left and right sides of the frame,
pulling the screen tight before each staple is applied. Continue to staple all
the way around the frame. After all the staples are in, neatly trim any excess
screen from around stapled area, if necessary.
20
General things to know about painting on screen:
As you begin to apply the initial basecoats, try to glide the paint across the top of the screen,
rather than push the paint from the front of the screen to the back. Part of the charm of screen
painting is that there will be some holes left behind on the finished product that are not entirely
filled in with paint. This will give the overall appearance more charm and character.
You will notice from the very first brush stroke that some paint will seep through from the front
to the back, no matter how hard to try to just glide the paint and not push it. This is okay, but
will make it necessary to keep the frame elevated off your table or surface while you paint. If
you do not do this, you will end up with a very messy table, and your screen could stick to the
table as the paint dries. To avoid this, I placed some blocks of wood underneath my frame while
I did the initial undercoating and basecoats, which kept the screen from touching my painting
table. You could use books or bottles of paint (tipped on their sides) rather than wooden blocks to
accomplish the same thing. NOTE: I found that after the initial base coats were completed, I no
longer needed to elevate the frame, as I did not have any more trouble with paint seeping
through the screen.
Use white transfer paper and a stylus with a large ball to transfer
the outline of the design. (The large ball will help to avoid pushing
through the transfer paper and screen). You will need to trace over
each line more than once to obtain a clear line on the screen.
There is no need to apply sealer to the screen before painting.
However, since the screen is black, you will need to undercoat
everything with a light color before you begin base coating.
Undercoat the candy corn and the bat on the screen with Light
Buttermilk before basecoating.
Sculpting the Candy Corn and Bat Buttons:

(Refer to the manufacturers instructions for further detail on how best to
handle the compound during the blending process.)
Mix two balls (each about the size of a walnut) of White Apoxie Sculpt
together (one ball from Part A and one ball from Part B), until they are
well blended.
Candy Corn Buttons: Form the candy corn buttons by rolling a ball of compound in your hand
about the size of a small marble. While slightly flattening the ball, press it down onto the candy corn
button line drawing, smoothing and shaping the sides and top of the compound until it matches the
shape of the line drawing. (If you desire, you may dampen your fingertip with water and lightly rub
across the top and sides of the compound to smooth the surface.) Use a stylus or toothpick to make
two holes in the center the candy corn that would be large enough for a large sewing needle and thick
thread or thin jute to pass through. Set the button aside to dry. Repeat until you have sculpted six
more candy corn buttons.
Bat Button: Cut out the bat wing shape from the line drawing to use as a pattern. Roll flat a small
amount of compound until it is approximately 1/8 thick and large enough to cut out the wings from.
Lay the wing pattern on top of the rolled out compound and cut around it with an Exacto knife, small
21
knife, or razor. Carefully lift up the bat wings and place them over the line drawing of the bat. If
necessary, reshape the wings slightly until they fit the line drawing. Create the body by forming a
small ball about half the size of a marble; slightly flatten it and press down over the wing until it fits
the line drawing of the bottom of the body. Create another ball of compound (smaller than what was
used for the body) for the bats head; slightly flatten it, and form a teardrop shape; press it onto the
top of the body and shape it to fit the line drawing of the head.
Form a tiny oblong nose and press onto center of face. Form two tiny ears into the shape of a soft
triangle and press onto the top sides of the face. Form two oblong shapes for the feet and press onto
the bottom of the body. Form the heart by making a flat oval, the pulling one end to a point; use a
toothpick or a stylus to make the dent in the top part of the heart. Press onto the center body of the
bat. Use a stylus or toothpick to make two holes in the center of the bats body that would be large
enough for a large sewing needle and thick thread or thin jute to pass through.
NOTE: I had enough compound to sculpt two bats, which was a great idea. I was then able to
choose which one I liked best to put on my frame. The other bat will be made into a Halloween pin
for one of my grandchildren.
Allow 24 hours for the compound to cure fully to a rock-hard semi-gloss appearance before painting.
If needed, you may sand or drill the compound after its cured. The paper line drawing can be peeled
away from the back after it the button has cured. If necessary, lightly sand off any remaining paper on
the back of the buttons.
Painting Instructions:
Basecoats:
Note: While the screen is being undercoated and base coated, be sure to keep it elevated from your
painting surface.
Multi-Purpose Sealer: Apply a coat of sealer to all of the buttons; allow to dry well before base
coating.
Candy Corn & Bat on the Screen: Undercoat the bat and candy corn on the screen Light
Buttermilk; this may require more than one application to get opaque coverage. When dry, basecoat
candy corn on screen and buttons with Warm White. The center stripe is Pumpkin and the bottom
stripe is Sunny Day.
Bat & Bat Buttons: Basecoat with Purple Cow
22
Bats:
Wisteria: Dry brush all over the bats (both on the screen and the button.) Youll notice immediately
on the screen how the texture begins to POP! This is where the project starts to get fun! Repeat to
brighten the center of the ears, top of the head, above the mouth, top of wings, between each spine in
the wings, center of tummy area, center and top of feet. Repeat in the same areas on the button.
Shade with Brilliant Purple: Dry brush to shade around the edges of the bat, around the head,
sides of the ears, around the eyes and nose, below the mouth and fangs, on the sides of the wings, on
the spines of the wings, on the body below the head, around the heart, above the feet, and around the
sides and bottom of the feet. Repeat dry brushing around the bottom part of the body to darken it.
Note that the dry brushing should actually extend about 25-30% up the body from the bottom, and
should extend about -3/4 below the head. Float over the dry brush to deepen the shading. Repeat
on the button.
Deepen the Shading with Grape Juice: Dry brush over the Brilliant Purple to deepen the shade.
(Note that the Grape Juice dry brushing does not need to be as wide as the Brilliant Purple dry
brushing; you do not want to obscure all of the Brilliant Purple.) Float over the dry brushing to
deepen the color.
Deepen Shading with Dioxazine Purple: Float over the Grape Juice with Diox Purple. Mix
with a tiny bit of Lamp (Ebony) Black, and float to shade on the wings and body (next to and below
the head), on the bottom of the ears, around the eyes and nose, below the mouth, on the spines in the
wings, on the bottom of the body between and above the feet, and on the separations between the
toes on the feet.
Eyes & Fangs: Base coat Warm White

Nose: Base with Dragon Fruit. Dry brush lightly on the bottom sides of the body, inside the ears,
bottom of toes, on outer edges of wings, and cheeks. Blend one drop Dragon Fruit into a small pool
of Cotton Candy. Dry brush, then float, top of nose; lightly dry brush top of ears.
Nose/Ears/Cheeks: With Scarlet, dry brush bottom half of nose and bottom of ears and drybrush
center of cheeks. Float around bottom of nose and bottom of ears (in the center). Deepen shading
around the bottom of the nose with Napa Red.
23
Eyes: Float Iris with Laguna; with Peacock Teal, line half of the spoke lines in the iris. Using
thinned Bluegrass Green, Very finely line the other half of the spoke lines in the irises.
Float the bottom of the iris (next to the nose) with Forest Green.
Details: Base the pupils Lamp Black. Thin paint with water and very
thinly line hair in the center of the ears and a few spoke lines in the
irises. Stroke eyebrows; line the eyes and lashes; line around the nose,
line the mouth, and around the fangs.
With Warm White, apply highlight strokes across the top of the nose, on
the outside edges of the iris, on the top of the wings, and the outer edges
of the ears.
Fangs: Using Fawn, float along the top of the fangs, next to the smile
line.
Pupil Highlight Dots: Warm White.
Heart: Basecoat Green Tea. Avoiding the very top of the heart, drybrush the center
with Laguna. The bottom third of the heart is drybrushed with Peacock Teal; also
float Peacock Teal down the sides and across the bottom. Drybrush the bottom
point of the heart with Bluegrass Green and float the very tip with
Forest Green.
Dip dots: In the heart, the large dots are Sunny Day; the small dots are Pumpkin
Details: Using thinned Lamp Black, line around the heart, and apply stitches.
Bat Button: It is not necessary to line the lashes, line around the heart, or add stitches on the
bat button.
24
Candy Corn:
Float the sides of the white area of the candy corn with Fawn; dry brush the Orange centers with
Orange Twist; float the sides of the orange areas with Scarlet.
Float around the sides and bottom of the yellow area of the candy corn with Mustard Seed.
Details: Thin paint slightly, and line a stitched line around all candy corn.
Frame: Basecoat with Green Tea
Stencil: The goal is to have the colors stenciled within each element gradually fade from Laguna,
to Peacock Teal, to Bluegrass Green, to Forest Green and to make the transition between colors
gradual and soft.
Using the Paisley Delight stencil, begin by stenciling all the elements with Laguna. (Do not remove
stencil until all of the next three colors have also been stenciled and blended into each element.)
Repeat stenciling with Peacock Teal on the outer edges of each element, gently blending into the
Laguna color. Next stencil with Bluegrass Green to deepen the shading on the end of areas stenciled
with Peacock Teal. End by stenciling Forest Green on top of some of the Peacock Teal. Remove
stencil and repeat the same steps all around the frame until all four sides are complete.
Detailing the Frame: Dry brush around the inner and outside edges of the frame with Laguna.
Repeat dry brushing around the outside edges of the frame and float around the outside edge of the
frame with Peacock Teal. Float the outside corners of the frame with Bluegrass Green; deepen the
shading by floating on the outside corners of the frame with Forest Green.
25
Touch-up Time:
Touch up any areas on the screen around the candy corn and bat that need to be crisped up. You
can do this by floating all around the bats and candy corn with Lamp Black; this will make the edges
appear more crisp and sharp. Touch up any areas of the frame that need to be corrected.
Varnish: Following manufacturers instructions, varnish the entire frame (top, sides, and back) and
buttons with two coats of DuraClear Matte Varnish; allow to dry well between applications.
Varnish the bat and candy corn on the screen. (I chose to varnish the entire screen, but I do not
actually think that would be necessary since the screen is very durable and intended for outdoor use.)
Glamour Dust Glitter Paint:

Ice Crystal: Base over the bats noses and hearts; base over all of the candy corn.
Purple Princess: Base over the bats.
Buttons Thread Details: Thread yellow embroidery floss, thin jute, or twine through both the bat
and candy corn buttons using a large needle. Tie off into a knot of the top of each button and trim.
Hot Glue and either E-6000 or Household GOOP Adhesive: Apply a couple of dots of either
Household GOOP or E-6000 Adhesive to the back of each button. Apply a dot or two of hot glue on
the back of each button and adhere to the frame in the desired location.
Copyright Notice:
Copyright 2017 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may
be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an
electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either
for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the
owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose
of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be
used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for
sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the
internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass
marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of
reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is
prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author. Note to Teachers/Shop Owners: You may not teach this
design (or your adaptation of it) unless a pattern is purchased for each student, even if the instructions have been rewritten and a new
photo taken of the finished/altered project. I will be happy to sell patterns (print or digital) for each student at a wholesale discount so
they can be included with the class supplies at a nominal cost. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you
in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information
26
27
28
29
Skeleton Dance
By Elaina Appleby
I hope you have as much fun as I did creating this piece using DecoArt Mixed Media products!
An old paper skeleton from my childhood as well as a long song by Fred Smith and Cliff Goldsmith
inspired this dancing guy in the sky.
30
DANCE BY THE LIGHT OF THE MOON
Ask your Mom and your Daddy can you go out tonight
Where the stars are bright, beneath the pale Moonlight
Ask your Mom and your Daddy can you go out tonight
Were gonna dance by the light of the moon
Supplies:
Surface:
Wooden Skeleton Guy #22-L527 Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com
Crescent Moon Plaque 10 x 8 x 1/8 #31-L259 Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com
Oval Insert 19 x 12 x 1/8 #TBB20005 Craines Cutouts and Crafts 316-522-8689
Project Supplies:
DecoArt Happy Halloween Stencil PFS 13 (bat and star)
Jack-o-Lantern Face Cut Out of Paper (see pattern or a die-cut from scrapbook paper)
Palette Knife
Craft Wire #11-w19; Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com
Wedge Sponge or Stencil brush
Identi Pen #44101, Double Ended 1.0mm, 0.4mm
Text Background Tissue www.justfinedesigns.com for the Skeleton
Halloween Scrapbook Paper (Your choice; I used striped Halloween colors)
Copy of my Halloween words.
Fiskars Paper Edgers (decorative scissor with rough edges)
Large 1 Black Letter Stickers (DANCE)
Small Black Letter Stickers (BY THE LIGHT OF THE MOON)
Standard Acrylic Painting supplies

Lamp Black
Banana Cream
Spiced Pumpkin
Warm White
DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics:

Hansa Yellow Light DMFA 16
Diarylide Yellow DMFA 11
Dioxazine Purple DMFA 12
Dark Grey Value 3 DMFA 22
DecoArt Media Mister:

Primary Yellow DMM 03
Orange DMM 05
Mediums by DecoArt:
Glamour Dust,
Gold Glitz DGD 01
Glow-in-Dark Paint DS 50
Texture Crackle TX 06
Decou-Page, Matte DS 106
31
Wood Glue DS 104
Matte Finish/Sealer DAS 13
Brushes: Faux Squirrel by Dynasty; Available at wwwthebrushguys.com

and 1/2 Flats; 1827F
Use the code Appleby to receive a 5% discount on your brush order.
Preparation:
When doing this mixed media project I feel that since we put so many layers on that there is no need
for a lot of prep!
Helpful Hint:
Use your photos to reference the adjustment of things such as color value, stencil placement, applying
mediums. Example; if you would like to see more of the Halloween background words just use less
coverage of the Crackle Medium. Remember the thicker the amount of Crackle Medium you apply,
bigger the cracks. Refer to the photos, but with this kind of project, YOU have control; create it so
that it pleases you!
Instructions
Trace the bone parts onto the tissue background paper and cut them out. Basecoat the whole Skeleton
with Warm White, when this is dry, wire the Skeleton together. Decou-Page the tissue into place and
set it aside to dry.
Background Paper:
After you have selected the background paper, tear it up into chunks and Decou-Page in place. Its fine
if there is some wood showing through. Using the jagged edged scissor, cut out the words, position
them, filling in the spaces and glue with Decou-page Medium. It should look almost covered with
paper. (See picture, above, right)
Background Texture:
When that is dry, use the palette knife and spread the Crackle Medium on at random. Spread some
thick and some thin covering as you like. Let this dry very well.
Background Painting:
On you palette put out a small amount of Dark Grey Value 3 and a small amount of Dioxazine Purple.
Dilute these colors down and start washing in the purple first keeping it to the right side of the board.
32
Use some darker value and some lighter. Then paint on a light wash of the gray in random spaces,
moving it to the center of the board.
Place a small amount of Hansa Yellow Light and dilute it down to a wash then paint the left side. Pull
the yellow to blend into the center and around the top. When this is dry, apply a coat of Golden Glitz
Glamour Dust. When you are finished set the background piece aside to dry.
Crescent Moon:
Basecoat the moon with Banana Cream; with Primary Yellow Media Mister, mist over the whole
moon. Spray with a lighter misting of Media Mister Orange, keeping the darker value of color on the
bottom half of the moon. Stencil the Jack-o-lantern face on in the darker area with Banana Cream. Let
it dry and then stencil over the Banana Cream with Glow-in-Dark paint. Shade the outside of the
moon with Spiced Pumpkin.
Skeleton:
Transfer the outlines for his face. Using the Identi Pen, and referring to the photo, freehand the lines
on his bones and fill in the face. Paint the stripes in the nose with Warm White, Spiced Pumpkin and
Banana Cream. Lightly float a shade on the skeleton with Lamp Black.
33
Stenciling Bats and Stars:
Glue the moon and skeleton into place. Stencil the Bats with Lamp Black. Stencil the Stars with Gold
Glitz. Find the best placement for these on your piece; it may be different from where I placed them.
Finish:
Position the letter stickers DANCE and BY THE LIGHT OF THE MOON. To ensure they do not lift,
apply one coat of Decou-Page to glue them securely. Let this dry. Float around the edge of the whole
background piece with Lamp Black. Darken the floated shade on the purple side.
Pen Work: Loosely outline the star, bats and lettering.
Seal: Give the whole project a coat of Matt Spray Sealer.
Happy Halloween!
34
35
36
Witch Crafter
By Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs
37
With her Jumbo Flying Paintbrush and her Cauldron of Color, this blue-eyed, green haired
Mistress of Magic is sure to cast a spell of fun on all your Halloween decorating. A bright and
colorful Mixed Media background incorporating Wet on Wet Blending, Stamps and Stencils add to
the character of this design. Dont let the process frighten you my Dear. Just follow the recipe and
POOF! your Witch Crafter will materialize right before your eyes. NOTE: No Toads, Snakes,
Newts, Bats, Cats or Goats were harmed during the creation of this project.
Supplies:
Surface:
Scalloped Banner 16 x 10; Item # 31-L292; Cupboard Distributing, www.cdwood.com
Project Supplies
Punchinello Just Fine Designs
Staz-On Permanent Ink Pad Timber Brown
Halloween Stamps Tim Holtz (or anything you have thats Halloweenie)
Copy of Witch Crafter words
Cosmetic Sponge Wedge (optional)
Rusty Wire for Hanger
Heat gun
Round Sponge
A couple of background stencils (I used a small leaf/vine stencil and a small diamond)
Small dot and/or alphabet stamp

Bahama Blue Dioxazine Purple Purple Rain
Bleached Sand Graphite Royal Fuchsia
Bright Salmon Hauser Dark Green Slate Grey
Bubblegum Pink Heritage Brick Spiced Pumpkin
Burnt Umber Honey Brown Teal Green
Cinnamon Drop Irish Moss Teal Mint
Coral Shell Lamp Black Turquoise Blue
Deep Blush Moon Yellow Victorian Blue
Deep Burgundy Olive Green Warm White
Desert Sand Poodleskirt Pink Wild Orchid
Mediums:
DecoArt Acrylic Sealer/Finisher DAS12 Gloss
DecoArt Decou-Page Matte DS106
Brushes by Royal Aqualon:

1/2 Glaze/Wash Brush; Series 2700
#12 Shader; Series 2150
#1 Liner; Series 2595
#4 Round; Series 2250
#12 or #14 Short Round Sable; Style # 95005; for Dry Brushing
3/8 Filbert Comb; Series Royal R930
20/) Liner; Series Royal Gold 585
38
Sandy says: When using an inkpad and stamps to add interest to your background, be sure that it
is permanent ink. Staz-On ink wont smear or disappear when you add paint on top of it. It will
bleed through the paint a bit but that is just fine. It adds another layer of character to your
painting.
Preparation:
Paint the surface with a coat or two of Spiced Pumpkin. I used the
round sponge to do this so I could get some nice vertical streaking
going on my surface. While the second coat of orange is still wet, pick
up some Moon Yellow on your dirty sponge and streak it vertically on
the surface. Blend it into the orange but make sure you still have
areas of orange that are untouched. Next, pick up some Royal Fuchsia
with your dirty sponge and streak it into the corners, down the sides a
bit and a little through the center of the surface. Let this all dry and
then sand lightly.
With the Timber Brown Staz On Ink Pad and your stamps (I used a
bat, a skull, some tiny dots and the alphabet), stamp the background
here and there to add another layer of interest.
With Warm White and your background stencils, add another layer of
interest. I like to use a cosmetic sponge to apply paint with my
stencils. The white helps to drop the brown stamped layer further back
on the surface.
Using the Punchinello, stamp random clusters of dots with Burnt Umber; see, another layer of
interest. And finally, spatter with thinned Purple Rain. Let everything dry and then apply the basic
pattern. Float shading, on the orange background around the basic design with Burnt Umber.
Instructions:
As you base coat each element in youll find that anything that has been stamped in the background
will show or bleed through dont fret and definitely dont try to base it out with more and more
coats of paint. Those areas just add character to the design. Let them shine through; itll be okay.
Besides, with everything we do on top of the base coat you probably wont be able to see it much at all.
Witch Face and Hands: Basecoat with Coral Shell. Apply the pattern for the eyes, nose, mouth etc.
(Just a note: After I was done painting her, I didnt like her
hands so I changed them. Some accompanying pictures may
show the old handsI apologize.)
Highlights: Dry brush highlighting across the forehead,

down the nose, in the center of the neck, down the sides of the
head and cheeks, on the thumbs, down the fingers and in the
top half or so of each hand with Warm White. Paint the eyes
in completely with Warm White. Float highlighting on the
chin, the tops of the hands, fingers and the thumbs with
Warm White.
Cheeks: Dry brush nice round cheeks with Bright Salmon.
39
Shading: Float shade with Deep Blush across the
forehead and down the sides of the face a bit, under
the chin, above the collar, at the base of the thumbs,
across the bottom of the hands and fingers (be sure to
pull this shading up a little to form the divisions
between the fingers), above the eyelid, under the nose
and mouth, just a touch above the middle section of
the lips, inside the bridge of the nose and down the
sides of the neck.
Whew! Did you get all that?
Eyes: Paint the eyelids with a wash of Warm White. Paint in the iris with Turquoise Blue and paint
the pupils with Lamp Black. Right now, youre probably looking at her and seeing a resemblance to
Hitler. be patient. Line highlighting in the right side of the iris with a mix of Turquoise Blue plus
Warm White. Pick up a little more Warm White and line a brighter highlight on top of this first
highlight.
Line shading in the left side of the iris with Victorian Blue. Float
very well blended Lamp Black across the top of the inside of the
eyes, across the whites, the iris and the pupil. Add the brightest
highlights to the eyes with Warm White. Lightly outline the tops
of the eyelids, around the whites of the eyes and under the nose
with thinned Deep Blush. Line the eyelashes with thinned Lamp
Black. Give her eyebrows with a wash of Burnt Umber.
Flesh details: Float just a touch of Bright Salmon in the tip of

the nose/nostrils and the bottom edge of the hands and thumbs.
With Warm White, dry brush brighter highlighting in the tip of
the nose/nostrils.
Lips: Paint with Bright Salmon; float deeper color on the lips with Cinnamon Drop. Line some
highlighting in the lips with Bright Salmon plus Warm White. Dab a brighter highlight with Warm
White. Lightly outline the lips with thinned Cinnamon Drop plus Burnt Umber. Float shading in the
corners and under the center lip line with this color mix also.
Shirt: Paint with Bubblegum Pink. Using the Punchinello as your stencil, add a layer of dots with
Poodleskirt Pink. Add another layer of lighter dots with Warm White. Dont line the dots up if at all
possible. Now, you can apply the pattern or just use the dots already there as a guide. You are going to
wash in the six petals of a flower with Wild Orchid. If you pick a dot to be the center of the flower you
can pretty much see the petals around it. Just
remember to keep the petals a soft wash of color so
that they dont jump out at you. Sandy cautions:
"And dont make these flowers a career...we
dry brush highlighting, float shading and
add paint splats on top of them too."
Wash in the centers with Moon Yellow. Wash in

some leaves, one for each flower with Irish Moss;
keep the color soft. Let these dry. Dry brush
highlighting on the sleeve and the little v at the
neck with Warm White. Float shading with Royal
Fuchsia. Float a highlight along the front edge of the
40
sleeve on the right side. Deepen shading with floats of Deep Burgundy. Line the stitching on the right
cuff with thinned Warm White.
Paint Splats on Shirt:

Blue: Bahama Blue; dry brush highlighting with Bahama Blue plus Warm White; float shading with
Teal Green. Dry brush brightest highlighting with Warm White.
Green: Irish Moss; dry brush highlighting with Moon Yellow; float shading with Hauser Dark Green.
Dry brush brightest highlighting with Warm White.
Purple: Purple Rain; dry brush highlighting with Wild Orchid; float shading with Dioxazine Purple.
Dry brush brightest highlighting with Warm White.
Orange: Spiced Pumpkin; dry brush highlighting with Moon Yellow; float shading with Heritage
Brick. Dry brush brightest highlighting with Warm White.
Shading: Float on the shirt around the splats with Royal Fuchsia.
Apron: Basecoat Teal Mint; and dry brush highlighting with Bahama Blue. Paint the stripes with
Spiced Pumpkin; line highlighting on the stripes with Moon Yellow. Dry brush highlighting on apron,
even across the orange stripes, with Warm White; float shading with Teal Green. Line the stitching
with thinned Warm White.
Paint Cauldron: Paint with Graphite. Dry brush highlighting

with Teal Mint; dry brush brighter highlighting with Bahama
Blue. Float shading with Lamp Black. Line a highlight across the
top front edge of the cauldron with Slate Grey. Line a brighter
highlight with Warm White. Paint the color in and on the
cauldron with Irish Moss. Line highlighting on the paint with
Moon Yellow. Float a little shading on it with Hauser Dark Green.
Line the handle with Slate Grey. Line highlighting on the handle
with Warm White. Line shading with Lamp Black. Paint the
lettering with Wild Orchid. Line highlighting on the lettering with
Warm White
Collar: Paint with Bleached Sand. Dry

brush highlighting with Warm White.
Float shading with Desert Sand. Deepen
shading just across the top edge with
Burnt Umber. Line the stitching with
thinned Burnt Umber. Line the scrolls
and add the tiny dots with Warm White.
Paint the splat with Irish Moss.
Dry brush highlighting with Moon Yellow; float shading with Hauser Dark Green. Dry brush the
brightest highlighting with Warm White.
Cat Pendant: Line the cording with Slate Grey. Line highlighting
with Warm White. Line shading with Lamp Black. Paint the cats
head with Lamp Black. Paint the nose and inside the ears with
Royal Fuchsia; dry brush cheeks with Royal Fuchsia plus Warm
White. Dry brush highlighting on the forehead and chin with
Warm White. Paint the eyes, line the mouth, line the whiskers and
line a highlight in the top of nose with Warm White. Dot the eyes
with Lamp Black and add a tiny Warm White highlight.
41
Hat: Paint with Graphite; dry brush highlighting
with Teal Mint and dry brush brighter highlighting
with Bahama Blue. Float shading with Lamp Black.
Paint the splats on the brim with Royal Fuchsia. Dry
brush highlighting with Poodleskirt Pink. Float
shading with Deep Burgundy. Dry brush brightest
highlighting with Warm White.
Hatband: Paint the hatband with Wild Orchid.

Dry brush highlighting with Warm White. Line the
spider webs and add the tiny dots with thinned
Lamp Black. Float shading with Purple Rain. Deepen shading with floats of Dioxazine Purple.
Line a small highlight on each section of the webs with thinned Warm White.
Hair: Using your 3/8

Filbert Comb brush stroke on
the first layer of hair with
thinned Irish Moss. Stroke on
some darker hair with
thinned Hauser Dark Green.
Stroke a lighter layer with
thinned Olive Green. Float
shading with Hauser Dark
Green. Stroke on the lightest
strands of hair with thinned
Moon Yellow.
Paint the hair ties with Royal
Fuchsia. Line highlighting on
the ties with Royal Fuchsia plus Warm White. Line shading on the ties with Deep Burgundy.
Paint Brush:
Handle: Paint Lamp Black; dry brush highlighting with Slate Grey and then
again with Warm White. With Lamp Black, float shading (yesit really does
make a difference). Paint the lettering with thinned Moon Yellow. Line a
highlight in the top half of each letter with Warm White. Float a touch of Teal
Green along the right side of the handle as a reflective shadow. (This float is just
inside the edge of the brush, not right on it.)
Ferrule: Paint with Slate Grey, line highlighting with Slate Grey plus Warm
White and line brighter highlighting with Warm White. Line shading with Slate
Grey plus Lamp Black; float shading with Lamp Black.
Bristles: Paint with Honey Brown. Line the hairs in the tip with thinned Moon
Yellow; line brighter hairs with thinned Warm White. Line darker hairs from the
ferrule up with thinned Burnt Umber. Float shading at the base of the bristles
with Burnt Umber.
42
Ruler in Hatband: Paint with Honey Brown. Dry brush highlighting with Moon Yellow.
Line the markings with thinned Lamp Black. Float shading with Burnt
Umber. (Forgot to take a picture of it but you can kind of see it in a
couple of the pictures.)
Spider: Paint with Irish Moss. Paint and dot the legs with Lamp
Black. Float highlighting across the top of the spider with Moon
Yellow. Float shading with Hauser Dark Green. Line the hair on the
spiders back with thinned Moon Yellow plus a touch of Irish Moss.
Paint the eyes with Warm White. Line a shadow above each eye with
Hauser Dark Green. Float very well blended out Lamp Black across the
top of the eyes. Dot the pupils and line the mouth with Lamp Black. Line the web from the hat to the
spider with thinned Lamp Black. Line a highlight on the web and the legs with Warm White.
Pencil:
Barrel: Base with Moon Yellow. Dry brush highlighting with Warm White;
float shading with Honey Brown. Deepen shading at the base of the pencil
with a float of Burnt Umber.
Ferrule: Paint with Slate Grey. Line highlighting on the right side with Slate
Grey plus Warm White. Line shading on the left side with Slate Grey plus
Lamp Black.
Eraser: Paint with Bright Salmon. Dry brush highlighting with Warm
White. Float shading with Cinnamon Drop.
Lettering: Make a copy of the lettering (below) and cut out each letter
rectangle. Place and apply the lettering to the surface using the DecoArt
Decou-Page medium. Let dry and then with a large flat brush apply a thin wash of Burnt Umber on
top of each letter rectangle. This knocks down the whiteness of the paper a tad and ties it into the
background. Line a shadow to the left and bottom of each rectangle with a wash of Burnt Umber. If
you have cut off the outline, then outline each rectangle loosely with thinned Lamp Black.
Finishing Touches: Deepen shading on the background, if necessary, with floats of Burnt Umber.
Let everything dry and then varnish with 2-3 coats of your favorite spray varnish. Add a hanger and
enjoy!
W I T C H
C RA F T ER
43
From the Witches Kitchen:
Halloween Chex Mix
8 oz White Chocolate Chips
4 Cups Corn Chex
2 Cups Bite-size Pretzels
1 Cup Candy Corn M&Ms
1 Cup Candy Corn
1/4 Cup Orange and Black Sprinkles
In a large bowl, microwave the white chocolate chips
uncovered on High for 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 minutes, stirring
every 30 seconds, until melted and smooth. Gently stir in
cereal, pretzels, candy corn and M&Ms until evenly
coated. Toss the sprinkles over the mixture. Spread on
waxed paper until chocolate is set, about thirty minutes.
Break into chunks.
44
2017 LeFlore
45
46
47
Spooky
By Betty Bowers
The weather is getting cooler the pumpkins are outgrowing their patches the leaves are
fallingoooooo it is Halloween time!
Supplies
48
Surface: Available at CD Wood: https://www.cdwood.com/
6.25 Wood Circle; #31-L104
Decorative Tag
2 Gears of Choice
Project Supplies: Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Basic Painting Supplies Bittersweet Chocolate
Wax Paper Dioxazine Purple
Small Sponge Driftwood
19 Gauge Wire Hauser Lt Green
E6000 Glue Lamp Black
Fine Grit Sand Paper Marigold,
Tape Purple Cow
Sand
Spiced Pumpkin
Brushes: Papillon by Artist Club White
16 Flat; #2013 Wisteria
8 Flat ; #20129
4 Flat;#20126 Mediums: By Deco Art
1/8 Dome Brush; #9113 All-Purpose Sealer
Angular; #20111 Matte Spray Sealer
0 Liner; #20140
Preparation:
Lightly sand if needed. Remove dust.
Referring to the pattern for placement, glue the small gear onto the large gear, and glue to surface
using E6000; let completely dry before basecoating.
Note: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.
Basecoat with 1:1 mix of All-Purpose sealer and Purple Cow; when dry, lightly sand and remove dust.
Basecoat again with a smooth coat of just paint.
Color Mottling Technique:

Dampen the sponge with clean water; squeeze out any excess; the sponge should be moist but not
drippy. Dip sponge into Marigold and Wisteria; blend on palette. Using a large flat brush, lightly
moisten the surface with water. Begin to sponge color onto the surface, twisting back and forth across
the whole surface. Reload sponge if needed; allow to dry completely.
Transfer basic lines
Painting instructions:
Shade around the edge of the surface and around the pumpkin face with Dioxazine Purple.
Face: Trace the face shape onto wax paper; cut out the face and discard paper. Tape the remaining
wax paper onto the surface with the face area open. Dont worry about the eyes, they will be painted
over.
49
Following the mottling instructions above, moisten surface; load sponge with Spiced Pumpkin and
Bittersweet Chocolate; blend on palette; repeat the sponging process as above. Be careful to not have
too much water or it will bleed under the wax paper. Pick up a little Marigold and sponge in the
middle of face. Let dry. If needed, dry brush the center of the face with Marigold again to lighten.
Shade around the face with Bittersweet Chocolate.
Gear Eyes: Using the small dome brush, pounce around

each eye with Sand. It is ok to get the paint on the side of the
gears. Clean and pinch dry the same brush; load with
Bittersweet Chocolate and paint the gears. Be sure to get down
inside the gears the best you can.
Load the 1/2 angular brush as if you are going to shade.
Using a chopping motion, paint around the edge with Sand;
but dont cover the Sand.
Twig Nose: Basecoat with Driftwood. Shade around the twig with Bittersweet
Chocolate. Load the angular brush with Bittersweet Chocolate (not too much); wipe on
paper towel, (make sure you dont have too much paint in the brush) place brush on the
left side and drag and lift. Do this all the way down the left side.
Following the same instructions, clean the brush and load with Sand; repeat technique
coming from the right side to highlight. Use the liner brush to pull some Bittersweet
Sweet lines across the twig.
Mouth: Use the #4 flat brush to paint the mouth

with Bittersweet Chocolate. Use the angular brush
and the same choppy strokes around the mouth with
Bittersweet Chocolate. Dry brush across the mouth
with Sand.
Hat & Stitching: Line stitches with Lamp Black. Basecoat hat
Lamp Black; Dry brush hat with Marigold, brighten with Sand; add
lines with Sand.
Collar: Basecoat with Hauser Lt Green; dry brush

with Bittersweet Chocolate. Shade with Dioxazine
Purple and add dip dots with Marigold and
Dioxazine Purple.
Sign: Basecoat Lamp Black; paint the letters with

Sand and highlight with White. Use E6000 and attach
sign to circle.
Details: Paint the webs with White; paint the spider Dioxazine Purple; highlight with Purple Cow;
dot the eyes with White then Lamp Black.
Spatter with White; let dry. Spray with sealer and hang with wire.
50
The line art below is at 100%
You may adjust the size to fit your surface.
51
All Things Halloween
By Sharon Bond
My favorite time of year is the fall and I love doing Halloween projects! The unique background
for this design was created using DecoArts Media Misters. Spraying beautiful colors and knowing
that no two backgrounds will be exactly alike really makes the entire process great fun!
52
Supplies
Surface:
11 Henry Plaque; Item # 31-L257; Available from www.cdwood.com
Project Supplies:
Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker(s) Such as a Sharpie OR Black PITT Artist Pen
Superfine or Extra Superfine (for even finer lines) by Faber-Castell
Small, Spray Mister Water Bottle
Protective Covering for Work Area (drop cloth, newspapers, old towel)

Black Marigold
Blue Harbor Olive Green
Brilliant Purple Peony Pink
Burnt Orange Russet
Canyon Orange Sand
Hauser Medium Green Warm White
Irish Moss
DecoArt Media Misters:

Primary Yellow
Orange
Carbon Black
Brushes: Papillon from Artists Club:

Round # 2 - # 20158
Script Liner 10/0 - # 20137
Angle Shader - # 20109
Flat Shader # 6 - # 20127
Drybrush and from their Highlighter Set # 20173
Mediums by DecoArt:
Americana Dry Time Extender (to aid with floating/shading)
Americana Matte Spray Finisher
Preparation
Note: Creating a spray-misted background can get messy; be sure and cover your
work area with newspaper, a drop cloth or an old (large) towel.
Basecoat the plaque solidly in Marigold and let this dry completely.
Misting Tips:
Work quickly; the colors move only while wet; once dry, water will not reactivate the color
Misting with water will let the colors, blend, flow and bleed over the plaque.
Before using the media misters, apply a light misting of water to the surface.
53
Now comes the fun part Creating your one of a kind, spooky
background!
Shake mister gently; hold the mister approximately 10 to 12

above the surface; spray Orange and Primary Yellow over the
entire plaque. While these colors are still wet, mist the Carbon
Black mainly around the edges of the plaque.
While the media colors are still wet, misting them with water will
let the colors, blend, flow and bleed over the plaque. The first
time I experimented and added too much water; I actually had quite
a pool of watered colors lying on the plaque. I took my hairdryer
and started blowing the colors around; I liked the effect and kept it
this way! As I said, it is all in how you want it to look. You can add
more color (particularly more Orange and Primary Yellow if you need
to brighten it) along the way. You might think that the background has
some green mixed in, but I assure you the effect is the result of the colors
mudding together. Once you achieve the background you like, lay the plaque flat and allow it to dry
completely; then spray a light coat of Americanas Matte Spray Finisher over the background to seal.
When it is completely dry transfer your main pattern lines.
Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to finely outline something in

Black you can choose whether you want to thin your paint and use a liner to outline
or simply use a marker!
Ghost: Basecoat solidly with Sand, you may need to apply two coats.
Drybrush with Warm White; shade around the inside edges with Blue
Harbor.
Cheeks: Lightly drybrush with Peony Pink. (Use additional Warm
White if needed, to soften).
Teeth: Basecoat solidly in Warm White.
Eyes: Solid Black with Warm White accents.
Line Work: Finely outline the ghost, the eyelashes and around his
mouth with Black.
Hats: Both hats are done the same.

Basecoat solidly with Burnt Orange; drybrush first with Canyon Orange and then
highlight with Marigold. Shade down the left side of each hat with Russet.
Alternate every other stripe with Black.
Finely outline the hats in Black and use Black for the curly-que at the tops.
Add an accent highlight line of thinned Warm White down the right side of
each hat.
Cat: Basecoat solidly in Black; drybrush with Blue Harbor.

Ears & Nose: Basecoat solidly with Peony Pink.
Whiskers & Mouth: Line with thinned Warm White.
Eyes: Paint solidly with Irish Moss; drybrush this with Olive Green.
54
Pupils: Basecoat Black. I added a small stroke of Marigold to each eye, along
with a tiny Warm White dot.
Collar: Based in Brilliant Purple and dotted with Peony Pink.
Finely outline this in Black.
Bat: Basecoat the entire bat in Black; drybrush

with Brilliant Purple; highlight with a few fine
strokes of thinned Warm White. Dot his eyes
with Olive Green.
Pumpkin: Basecoat solidly with Burnt Orange.

Drybrush over the pumpkin with Canyon Orange
and highlight with Marigold; concentrate around
the top and in the center. Shade between the ribbed sections and around the
inside edge with Russet.
Facial Features: The mouth, eyes and nose are basecoated Black.
I added some strokes to the eyes, nose and mouth with thinned Burnt
Orange. The starburst in each eye is Marigold.
Stem: Base solidly with Hauser Medium Green and highlight with
strokes of Irish Moss. Finely outline the stem and the pumpkin with
Black. I used some squiggly lines for an extra touch!
Lettering: The lettering is painted solidly with Black. I highlighted

most of the letters with tiny strokes of thinned Warm White.
Finishing
Now that we have completed our project, it is

time to seal it! Following manufacturers
instructions, apply at least two coats of
Americanas Matte Spray Finisher.
Now you are ready to display your unique and

fun Halloween Plaque! Hope you had fun!!
Thank You!
Sharon B.
Copyright 2017 Painted by Me, Sharon B

Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited.
May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.
55
56
57
58
Birds of the Sea
Summers by the sea !
Great instruction packet with color step
by steps.
Stencils * Brushes * Patterns * Paints *

Chipboard
And so much more
www.maureen-baker.com
59
60
61
BUT ITS SO GOOD!!!!
By Margaret Riley
Whats good? Painting? Well, of course, painting is awesome! But right now, I am talking about what
is good in snacks! How many of us are guilty of munching while sitting at our
painting table? Do I see some hands going up?
I am equally at fault for grabbing a bag of chips and bringing it to my painting

table. Im quite sure that there is a plump, painting fairy in my studio; she
sneaks around, grabs my chips, and makes it look as if I ate that entire bag!!!
(Note to self: Setting fairy trap tomorrow!)
After hours at your painting table, do you get up, stretch your legs with a walk to the refrigerator and
grab the first thing you see? Yeah, me too!
Lets get reasonable about eating habits; I would live on ice cream and potato chips if I
could. Ive had to compromise with my brain (and stomach) to eat better. Im not a
health nut (maybe a little crazy!) but I do enjoy good food. Start by making it a point to
have a meal with your family.even if you have to introduce yourself to them after
living in your studio.
Its easier to snack healthy if you have wholesome food at the ready. We are fortunate to have a small
garden and fresh veggies are high on my list for a snack. Try to keep an assortment of nourishing
veggies in the crisper; things like: sliced carrots, celery, cauliflower or broccoli; my very favorite is
cherry tomatoes. Package them in snack size baggies and they are easier to bring to your painting
table. Keep oranges peeled, sectioned and bagged front and center in the refrigerator; along with
deviled eggs, fruit cups and Jell-O. Put a basket of fruit in your studio to keep from going into the
kitchen.
Editors note:
It is always nice to have a cheeseball on hand. I make my own
Margaret is NOT
and split it into four small balls so I wont eat one HUGE one by
talking about THESE
myself! Its filling and you can purchase a variety of low calorie
crackers. Even fixing some peanut butter and crackers for a cheese balls!
snack is better than a handful of chocolate covered peanuts.
(Mmmm..chocolate!!!...resist, resist!)
Did you know your brain is mostly water? Drinking water will help you think better, ward off the
hunger pains and will rehydrate your body. Try to exercise; if painting is your job, stop every hour
and walk to the mailbox; bend and stretch as you pick up toys lying around. If you must answer your
growling stomach, allow yourself a healthy snack; and remember to limit the portion sizes on all
snacks!
When you hit the grocery store, load up on vegetables and fruit; do your best to
avoid the chip aisle! Most prepackaged snacks are high in calories, sodium, and
fat; so read labels! If you look carefully, hidden above or below the tasty junk
food on the grocery shelves, you will find an assortment of 100 calorie snacks.
Perhaps we should each paint and display a sign on the refrigerator door that
says, STOP! Do you really need that snack? Pounds will come rolling off when
you start eating healthy. Your family will really wonder who is that skinny person sitting at the table
with them! Not to mention the famous artist that roams around the house!
For more information on healthy snacking: http://www.infusedveggies.com/5-healthy-snacks/

62
Witches Brew
By Judy Diephouse
www.distinctivebrushstrokes.com
OooOoooOoSpooky silhouettes! What a fun and easy project to paint with a group of friends or
even beginner students! You could add this bewitching surface to the center of a fall wreath to
complete the Halloween touch.
63
Supplies
Surface:
Omni Artboard Lacy Witch Hat; 10x11; Rebecca Bear http://www.rebeccabaer.com/
Project Supplies:
Standard Acrylic supplies
Light and Dark Graphite.
Ball Stylus

Banana Cream Payne's Grey
Bright Yellow Purple Rain
Charcoal Grey Saffron Yellow
Lamp Black Slate Grey
Orange Flame Sour Apple
Orchid Vivid Violet
Brushes:
Flats - #2, #4, #8, #12, #3/4"
Liners - #6/0, #1, #2, #4
Preparation:
Basecoat the entire piece with Purple Rain; if needed, sand lightly between coats. Transfer on the
pattern, but do NOT transfer witches until after the moon is painted.
Moon: Undercoat the moon with Banana Cream. Base coat Bright Yellow and shade the bottom
with Saffron Yellow. Shade behind the moon with Payne's Grey. Allow to dry and then transfer the
witches and caldron.
Ground: Shade from the ground line and under

the witches with a float of Charcoal Grey. Allow
the color to gradually fade out toward the scrolls.
Basecoat the following items Lamp Black:

Tree, Witches, Caldron and Pumpkin
Witches: Highlight the front edges of the witches

hats, dresses and top of sleeves with a float of
Sour Apple. Their eyes are dots of Sour Apple.
The trim on the right Witch is Sour Apple and on
the left Witch is Orange Flame. The trim on the
flying Witch is Bright Yellow. The hair is wiggly
lines of Lamp black. The broom is Lamp Black.
Caldron: Highlight the sides with floats of Sour

Apple. The shine lines are Bright Yellow. Flames at
base are strokes and lines of Orange Flame and
touches of Bright Yellow. Smoke is curled lines of Lamp Black.
64
Pumpkin: The face features are Bright Yellow, outlines with Orange Flame.
Highlight the sides with floats of Sour Apple.
Stars and Bats: Lamp Black.
Spider Web: Slate Grey.
Spider: Lamp Black with Sour Apple Legs; add two, tiny
dots of Sour Apple for eyes.
Eyes in the Sky: Sour Apple with irises of Lamp Black.
Shadows: Streak under the main objects with shadow streaks of Payne's Grey.
Shade under the bends in the hat with floats of Payne's Grey. Float highlight above the bends with a
mix of Purple Rain and a touch of Orchid.
Scrolls: Shade between the scrolls with floats of Payne's Grey. Highlight the tops of the scrolls with
strokes of a mix of Purple Rain and Orchid. For variation, add touches of Vivid Violet to the mix.
Enjoy!
65
66
J
67
Trick or Treat Hanger
By Martha Smalley
Create a welcome sign to let all the neighborhood ghosts and goblins know that you have Halloween
treats for them!
68
Surface:
14 Dome Plaque; #31-L430; from Cupboard Distributing https://www.cdwood.com
6 Scalloped Dome Plaque; #31-L214; https://www.cdwood.com
Supplies:
Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
Sharpie Extra Fine Point Black Pen
Deco Art Easy Float
Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte
8 Brown and White Bakers Twine
14 Rusty Wire
Two decorative buttons (for the cats eyes)
Two black buttons (for the ghosts eyes)
Tim Holtz Layering Stencil BURLAP THS007
Laurie Speltz Starry Snow Stencil 09-283
Deco Art Americana Stencil Brush Set DABK20K
Hot Glue Gun and a glue stick

Bluegrass Green
Lamp Black
Warm White
Burnt Orange
Black Plum
Khaki Tan
Canyon Orange
Soft Black
Burnt Umber
For paint conversion charts go to http://decoart.com/cgi-bin/Techniques.cgi?ColorConversion
Brushes:
Assorted size Flats for basecoating
Assorted size Angles for floating
Assorted Fine Liners for detail work
Assorted round dome or scruffy brushes for dry brushing
Techniques
Shading: If shading is a challenge for you, try using DecoArt Easy Float. Easy Float is a blending and
floating medium developed to make floating color easier. Using an angled brush, dip the back in the
medium and the tip in the paint. Brush back and forth on your palette until the paint blends slightly
into the medium and then paint. Use a mop brush to soften the edge. To achieve the best effect, use
several light coats and allow ample drying time between applications.
Dry Brushing: Load an old, round scruffy brush with the appropriate color and remove most of the
paint by brushing it onto a paper towel. Move to the surface and apply the paint in a circular motion
using a very light touch so that some of the background color will show through.
Line Work and Details: Use the #10/0 for all line work. Thin the paint with water to an ink-like
consistency.
69
Marthas tips:
Use a stylus, a toothpick or the end of a paintbrush handle to add dots to your design. These
will give you more control over the shape and size of the dot.
A hairdryer can be your best friend when it comes to speeding up the drying process!
Follow all the manufacturers label instructions for proper product usage. Use the color photo
as reference for shading and details.
Preparation:
Large Dome Plaque: Basecoat with Bluegrass Green; shade around the edge with Soft Black.
Small Dome: Basecoat with Warm White and drybrush around the edge lightly with Soft Black.
Painting Instructions
Jack o Lantern:
Basecoat Burnt Orange.
Shade the sections with Black Plum.
Drybrush highlights in the sections with Canyon Orange.
Paint the nose and mouth with Lamp Black.
Line the nose and mouth with Warm White.
Paint the eyes Lamp Black.
Paint the centers with Burnt Orange.
Add Warm White Highlight dots.
Outline the eyes with the Sharpie Pen.
Stem and Vines:

Paint the stem Khaki Tan.
Shade the stem with Burnt Umber.
Paint the moon on the stem Burnt Orange.
Outline and line the moon with the Sharpie Pen.
Line the vines with Khaki Tan.
Outline the stem with Warm White.
Highlight the vines by lining them with Warm White.
Spider and Spider Web:

Paint the spider Lamp Black.
Outline the spider and line the legs with Warm White.
Line the web with Warm White.
Scardy Cat:
Paint the cat Lamp Black; paint the nose Khaki Tan.
Use the Burlap Stencil, and Lamp Black to stencil the texture
to the nose.
Drybrush the triangles on the ears with Warm White.
Paint the star eyes with Warm White.
Line the whiskers with Warm White.
Paint the mouth Warm White then line with Lamp Black.
Blanket stitch around the cat with Warm White.
70
Lettering and Stars:
Use the Star Stencil, stencil brush and Lamp Black to apply the stars.
Dot the center of each star with Warm White. Line the lettering with
Warm White.
Ghostie:
Drybrush the cheeks with Burnt Orange.
Line the mouth with Lamp Black.
Line the lettering with Lamp Black.
Finishing Touches:
Spatter paint both plaques lightly with Lamp Black.
Spray both plaques with Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte.
Hot glue the button eyes to both pieces (refer to photo for placement).
Attach the rusty wire to the large plaque for hanging.
Tie one end of the Bakers Twine to the left side of the Ghostie.
Lace the Bakers Twine through the rusty wire hanger; tie the loose end
to the remaining hole
in the Ghostie.
Hot glue the Ghostie to the large plaque (refer to photo for placement).
71
72
WhoOOooOo Goes There?
By Chris Haughey
Strange things happen on Halloween! Keep eyes open because you never know who will appear!
73
Supplies: All materials available at Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com 937-652-3338
Surface
Arch Chalkboard Plaque; 7- x 12-; #31-L305
Project Supplies:
Canary Tracing Paper; #28-03838 Specialty Sponge Set of 2; #29-32227
Double-Ended Stylus; #03-11183 Stampendous Toxic Cling Sketch stamp;
Extra Fine Sanding Pad; #29-10611 #46-21717
Graphite Paper; #28-31011 Holtz Dot Fade Layering Stencil;
Mono Zero Eraser; #18-57305 #09-70805
Painters Tape; #16-03680 Black Aluminum Hanging Wire;
#11-72710

Butter 13-DA258 Persimmon 13-DA293
Hauser Light Green 13-DA131 Plantation Pine 13-DA113
Heritage Brick 13-DA219 Plum 13-DA175
Lemonade 13-DA252 Sable Brown 13-DA061
Light Cinnamon 13-DA114 Snow White 13-DA01
Moon Yellow 13-DA07 Soft Black 13-DA155
Neutral Grey 13-DA095 Spiced Pumpkin 13-DA310
Mediums by DecoArt
Americana Matte Sealer/ Finish Spray 13-41370
Multi Purpose Sealer; #13-07930
StarLite Varnish: #13-01120 (optional)
Crystal Glamour Dust Glitter; #13-4153 (optional)
Brushes:
Sure Touch Taklon by Jo Sonja

Angle-, (Series 1345) Scharff
Filbert-6, -10 (Series 1385) Theorem Stencil Brush; #03-205-4
Oval Wash- (Series 1318) Royal & Langnickel
Round-4 (Series 1350) Medium Mop Brush 03-M77MM-M
Script Liner-5/0 (Series 1365)
Preparation:
Using the large specialty sponge, seal surface with Multi-Purpose Sealer, lightly sand and wipe clean.
With same sponge, basecoat surface Moon Yellow. Transfer the main pattern lines using the
graphite paper and stylus; add details as needed.
Moon: Load Oval Wash with thinned Neutral Grey; slip slap around bottom of moon, blending softly
into the Moon Yellow base and moving about one third of the way up. Load same brush with thinned
Plum to tint same area.
74
With Butter, slip slap top of moon, blending down about a third of the way from the top. Brighten top
center of moon with Snow White.
Sketch Texture: To add the sketch texture, load small specialty

sponge with Snow White, tapping on palette to disperse paint evenly
across sponge; coat stamp with paint and press randomly on top half of
moon. Reload stamp after each imprint.
Load same stamp with Sable Brown and stamp towards the bottom of
the moon. Keep stamped design light and incomplete. If the design
becomes too bold, gently buff with fine grit sandpaper.
Sky: With Oval Wash and thinned Soft Black, slip slap sky area. The brush strokes will be visible, but
not spotty, allowing the yellow base to glow through the paint. Repeat with thinned Plum. When dry,
shade Soft Black around outer edges to deepen sky area.
Following instructions above, load sketch stamp with Soft Black and stamp randomly onto sky areas.
Pumpkins: The background color, Moon Yellow, serves as the undercoat.

Following the contour of the pumpkins and using the Oval Wash brush, topcoat over yellow pumpkins
with Spiced Pumpkin. The light source is the moon in the center.
Left Pumpkin: Shade the left and highlight on the right.
Right Pumpkin: Shade on the right and highlighted on the left.
Following rule above, shade down outer sides of pumpkins and down section grooves with
Persimmon, deepen shading with thinned Heritage Brick and repeat with a tint of Plum.
Highlight tops of pumpkin sections with Moon Yellow, repeating until desired brightness.
Position and secure the Dot Fade stencil at the bottom outer sections of the pumpkins. Load stencil
brush with Heritage Brick, wipe excess on a paper towel and drybrush a subtle design on the outer
sections of both pumpkins and on the bottom of right side of the left pumpkin.
Stems: Base Sable Brown. Following shading and highlighting

instructions above, shade outer sides of stems with Light Cinnamon and
deepen with Soft Black. Highlight opposite sides with Moon Yellow.
Facial Features:
Eyes: Base Hauser Light Green; shade bottoms with Plantation Pine
and highlight tops of eyes with Lemonade. Base pupils Soft Black; float
Neutral Grey along the bottom edges and add a Snow White highlight in
the top left of each pupil. Load Script Liner with thinned Soft Black to
line around eyes and add eyebrows. Float Heritage Brick on pumpkins
along the bottoms and up sides of each eye.
Noses: Base noses Heritage Brick. Float Soft Black along inner side
of each nose. With Moon Yellow and Script Liner, pull a line down
same side.
Cat: Undercoat cat Neutral Grey. With Angle and Soft Black, shade
around outer edges of face and paws. Adding light layers of shading
will create more depth.
Float Moon Yellow inside ears and repeat with Spiced Pumpkin.
75
Eyes: Paint following steps for pumpkin eyes.
Nose: Base Moon Yellow; shade Spiced Pumpkin along bottom
and right side, then deepen with Persimmon.
Details: Load Script Liner with thinned Snow White to line
eyebrows, mouth and whiskers.
Load same brush with Soft Black to add hair on tips of ears and
side tufts. Repeat with Neutral Grey and finish by adding Snow
White highlights.
Highlights: With Moon Yellow, highlight tops of paws and
head, color is stronger on the paws and slightly less intense on top
of the head.
Witch:
Load toe of Angle with thinned Soft Black to float
around hat, face, dress, cape and shoes. Load Script
Liner with same color to add detail lines; brim of hat,
hair, hands, bottom of dress, cape, define broom,
handle and shoes.
Using small Angle, float a light tint of Plum over hat,

dress and cape.
Details: Using a Script Liner, add Neutral Grey details to hair and broom bristles.
Brighten top of hat, brim, hair, broom, and broom bristles with Snow White.
Broom Dust: Load stencil brush with Soft Black, wipe excess on a
paper towel; using a circular motion, drybrush the broom dust trail
across moon. When dry, repeat with Plum.
Starburst: Using Script Liner and Snow White, paint starbursts along
dust trail. Fill in around starbursts with Snow White dip dots.
Follow same instructions to add starbursts and dip dots to sky area on
both sides.
Finishing:
Paint side edges and back of plaque Soft Black.
Following manufacturers instructions, spray seal with several light coats of Matte Spray Varnish.
Attach hanging wire and curl ends.
Tip: To add a little more Halloween magic, lightly coat broom dust trail with StarLite
Varnish; while still wet, sprinkle with Crystal Glamour Dust Glitter. Allow to
thoroughly dry, then tap and gently brush to remove excess glitter.
76
77
78
Candy Corn Dreams and Halloween Wishes
By Cheryl Jones
My designs are inspired by moments in my life; things that make me stop and reflect. Many years
ago, when I first began working my own designs, I did lots of bears. I was known as the bear lady
and my little guys were nicknamed 'Cher Bears'. I painted hundreds of different little bears!
Recently, I was reminded of my long ago creations and decided that a new Cher Bear would be a
fun Halloween design. I hope this chubby fellow helps you smile as you enjoy Candy Corn Dreams!
79
Supplies
Surface
One, Artificial, Half (1/2) Pumpkin; available at most any craft stores. I bought mine already
cut in half, but I'm sure you could easily cut a whole one in half. I bought an orange one, but
you can paint a white one if thats all you can find.
Project Supplies:
Pigma Micron Fine Point (.05) permanent marker
Paper Or Wooden Tag
Old Toothbrush or Desired Tool For Splattering
Ribbon of Choice
Wreath and Fall Leaves (Optional)
Wood or Heavy Cardstock Hang Tag

Burnt Orange Lamp Black
Burnt Umber Raw Sienna
Cadmium Yellow Spiced Pumpkin
Camel Tomato Red
Canyon Orange (if painting your Warm White
pumpkin)
Hauser Medium Green Americana Ultra Fine Glitter Paint
Ice Crystal Glamour Dust
Mediums by DecoArt
Americana DuraClear Soft Touch Varnish
Brushes by Loew Cornell

10/0 Liner
1/2 Angled Shader
#2 Round
#4 Scumbler Brush
# 10 Filbert
Large Flat for Basecoating
Preparation
There is no prep necessary for this surface. Just wipe the pumpkin with a damp cloth and let dry.
If the surface you selected is slick or shiny, lightly sand before painting. Background
If you have a pumpkin that doesnt require a basecoat, transfer your pattern outline and continue
with the Teddy Bear steps.
Basecoating:
If youre basecoating your pumpkin orange, put out a large puddle of Canyon Orange and beside it, a
dime sized puddle of Hauser Medium Green. Basecoat the pumpkin using a large Flat; load your
brush with Canyon Orange, occasionally double load with Medium Green and apply using nice long
strokes; brush back and forth to get the look you like. Once dry, transfer your pattern outline onto the
background.
80
Undercoat the Bear, Candy Corn and Treat Bucket with Warm White.
With sheer Burnt Umber, shade around the design, ON the pumpkin; shade under the design to give
an illusion of the ground
Teddy: Basecoat with Raw Sienna (it will take multiple coats)
Muzzle/pads of feet: Using a DRY Scumbler brush and Camel, stipple on the muzzle and pads of
feet. It should look soft and furry ;-)
Candy Corn: Cadmium Yellow at bottom, Spiced Pumpkin in middle and Warm White on the tip.
Treat Bucket: Spiced Pumpkin
Shading:
I do ALL my shading using a 1/2 Angled Brush. Blend well on your palette before going to the
surface. Remember to wait for 'intersecting' areas to dry before shading. This means you sometimes
have to jump around a bit; otherwise you will lift the shading you just applied in an adjacent area.
(Like on the teddy- you may have to do an arm on one side, then jump over to the other side and
shade before you can shade next to the candy corn.)
Teddy: Shade with Burnt Umber (refer to the picture for placement, but a good guide is anything
that is 'behind, or under something else will get the shade color on it.)
Shade the ears, above the muzzle, around the arms, in the crease on the arms, above the feet, next to
the candy corn, bottom edge on the feet and bottom edge of pads also.
Treat Bucket: Shade the top, inside edge of the treat bucket.
Candy Corn: Shade with Burnt Orange.
Details: Teddy needs a face!
Cheeks: I do all my cheeks with a DRY Scumbler brush; pick up

a bit of Tomato Red, scrub most of it off onto your palette or
paper towel, then, using a circular motion and light pressure,
scrub some color on to cheeks and towards the bottom of the
pads of his feet. You can always add more - so be light with the
color and then add more if needed ;-)
Mouth: with your Liner brush, thin down Burnt Umber and outline
his mouth; fill in the center with Tomato Red.
Painting Technique
Set Down Eyes: Load the paint onto the brush in a little glob and then 'set down' an oval or
jellybean shape for the eyes, and a larger set down for the nose.
Eyes/Nose: Using a Liner brush and Lamp Black, add set down eyes and a nose. When the eyes
have dried, pull a few little lashes with your Liner brush. I always start lashes IN the
eye, and then pull out don't exaggerate the curve in your lashes, just a slight
bend will keep the
m more natural looking. (Although, I'm not sure how natural a teddy bear's
lashes would be, especially one holding giant candy corn!) Add eyebrows too!
Treat Bucket: Using a Liner brush or small Round, add the face and the
handle with Lamp Black.
81
Highlights: We are almost done!
Eyes: Add highlight dots using your Liner brush and Warm White. (Dots are on the same side in
each eye)
Cheeks: Add highlight sparkles on the cheeks with Warm White.
Treat Bucket Pumpkin Face: Add line of Warm White on the pumpkin face (refer to picture).
Dry brush a bit of Warm White on the front edge of the bucket.
Candy Corn: With the Scumbler brush, dry brush a bit of white on one side of the candy corn. Then
pull a line on top with your Liner and Warm White,
Teddys Details: Dry brush a bit of Warm White on the ends of Teddy's hands.
Hang Tag: You can find loads of cute wooden tags at

the craft store or online, but I just used a manila shipping
tag. I painted it Black on both sides. I splattered it using
an old toothbrush with White. Add your saying and any
other things (like a spider web) using your Liner brush.
Attach using ribbon of your choice.
Magical Details: I always do any outlines using

a pen, AFTER I varnish so there will not be any
smearing or running. However, if you prefer,
you can do the line work with Lamp Black and a very fine Liner brush.
If you would like a little sparkle above/around your design, brush on Glamour Dust. When paint is all
dry-Varnish with Soft Touch Varnish (Or your favorite finish).
When the varnish is fully dry, use the Pigma Micron Fine Point to create fur with relaxed, squiggly
lines. Don't get too precise- he's a fluffy little bear!
Outline the candy corn and treat bucket to help them POP away from the pumpkin.
Embellish with a bright bow on the top. I found it easiest to use straight pins to help secure the bow
and prevent it from sliding out of position. I also used a pin to secure the ribbon on my tag :-)
Display
I placed my pumpkin into a grapevine wreath
and added a few fall leaves for color.
I hope Teddy brings smiles to the little

goblins in your life! He (or she, if you add a
bow on one ear) would also look cute on a
tote bag, t-shirt or a box filled with candy!!
HUGS, Cheryl
82
You may enlarge or reduce the pattern to fit your surface.
83
Wilhelmina
By Deb Mishima
84
Wilhelmina is a very special Witchlet, not designed to scare you, but to make you smile! Deb adds
an array of dimensional and painted accents to give this design a little extra flair. Who else could so
imaginatively pair spiders and bats with a lacy petticoat and paper flowers?
Supplies
Surface
12t x 8w Curved Edge Plaque Available from Lonnas Stroke of Art
http://www.lonnasstrokeofart.com/apps/webstore/pr
Project Supplies:
Ball Stylus
Wood Bat 1 x 3 (available at Michaels)
Black, Waterproof Pigment Ink Pad (optional)
Paper Flowers to match color scheme
Web Stamp (optional. Line drawing included)
Halloween Banner Dimensional Stickers by K & Company; at Michaels Arts & Crafts
Adhesive Backed, Black Rhinestone Stickers
Aleenes Tacky Glue
Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Brushes: Black Gold by Dynasty

Canyon Orange Flat 206FW, #10 Flat 206S,
Lamp Black 10/0 Liner
Purple Cow Angle, Angle, Angle
Purple Rain Assorted Blenders and Mop Brushes
Warm White 2 Palmer Filbert 538FIL
Wasabi Green
Mediums by DecoArt:
Matte Medium
DecoArt Matte Sealer/Finisher Spray
Preparation
Based on the surface youre using, if necessary, sand surface until smooth; after first background
basecoat, sand lightly to knock down any raised grain.
Background: Basecoat surface Purple Cow; if necessary, lightly sand, wipe away dust and shade
around plaque border with Purple Rain. I like to soften the background by lightly dry brushing with
Warm White, using Dynasty Palmer 2 brush.
Brush on DecoArt Matte Medium to seal and allow to dry thoroughly before transferring pattern.
Transfer pattern and shade around the outlines with Purple Rain.
Randomly stamp or dip dot (using a ball stylus) on background using Canyon Orange; splatter
background Lamp Black. Either with a fine liner or by stamping, place webs onto background with
Lamp Black.
85
Wilhelmina
Face & Hands: Basecoat with Light Mocha; shade

Mocha.
Cheeks: Drybrush with French Mauve
Details: Line and dot mouth Lamp Black; line nose
Lamp Black; dot eyes Lamp Black and add highlight
dots with Warm White.
Hat: Basecoat Lamp Black; lightly drybrush Warm

White to soften. Float a highlight line along top of hat
to shape. Basecoat the hatband Warm White, line and
dot hat brim Warm White. Basecoat underside of brim
Wasabi Green; line threads from tip of hat Wasabi
Green, Canyon Orange and Lamp Black.
Hair: Basecoat hair Lamp Black; lightly drybrush Warm White to soften the Black. Line hair Warm
White and Lamp Black.
Shirt Sleeves: Base stripes Purple Cow, Canyon Orange and Lamp Black; shade Purple stripes with
Purple Rain. Softly drybrush sleeves Warm White. Float a highlight line along middle of each sleeve
to shape.
Shirt Front: Base stripes Canyon Orange, Lamp Black and Purple Cow.
Drybrush lightly with Warm White.
Stockings: Basecoat from bottom to top, Canyon Orange, Lamp

Black and Purple Cow. Shade Purple Cow with Purple Rain. Float a highlight
line down center of stockings Warm White to shape.
Boots: Basecoat Lamp Black. Drybrush around top, down outside and around toe area with Warm
White. Add a highlight line to shape toe area; line stitching and bows with Warm White.
Flounce: Basecoat Warm White. Float all the way around with Wasabi Green. Randomly dip dot in
a 3 dot pattern on flounce with Wasabi Green. Add a fourth dot using Canyon Orange.
Dot in several rows along hemline Warm White. Line with Warm White. Line gatherings and flowy
lines throughout flounce using Warm White.
86
Jumper: Basecoat Lamp Black; drybrush dress Warm White to soften; line stitching and gathering
Warm White.
Spiders and Bats: Basecoat and line Lamp Black and dot eyes Warm White.
Ground: Drybrush in a circular motion using Lamp Black. When dry, drybrush over Lamp Black
areas with Warm White. Line grass Wasabi Green.
Flowers: I used paper flowers from Michaels. Since I could not find exactly what I wanted,
I painted them my desired colors; then sprayed them with DecoArt Matte Sealer Spray. I have
included the line drawings for the flowers and tombstone if you
prefer.
Left to Right:
Flower #1: Basecoat petals Wasabi Green; dot Canyon Orange;
base center Purple Cow.
Flower #2: Basecoat petals Purple Cow; dot Warm White, Canyon
Orange and Lamp Black. Base center Wasabi Green and add Canyon
Orange dots.
Flower #3: Basecoat petals Canyon Orange; dot Lamp Black;
basecoat center Wasabi Green and dot Canyon Orange.
Flower #4: Basecoat petals Wasabi Green; dot Canyon Orange;
base Center Purple Cow.
Tombstone: I cut the tombstone out of cardboard; painted it Lamp Black and lined it Warm White.
If you prefer, you can also just paint it directly onto your surface.
Bat: Basecoat Wasabi Green; drybrush Warm White. Dot along

border of bat with Canyon Orange and the small end of the ball
stylus. Dot in the wing centers with the larger end of the ball stylus
and Purple Cow.
Halloween Banner: If you choose to paint the banner instead

of purchasing it, I have included the line drawing and instructions.
87
This illustration shows the dimensional banner by K & Company
Instructions for Painting on the banner:
H: Basecoat Light Mocha; dot Purple Cow and line H Lamp Black
A: Basecoat Lamp Black; dot Purple Cow and line A Light Mocha
L: Basecoat Light Mocha; polka dot Canyon Orange and line L Lamp Black.
L: Basecoat Lamp Black; dot Purple Cow and line L Canyon Orange.
O: Basecoat Light Mocha; line Purple Cow.
Owl on O pendant: Basecoat Lamp Black; dot eyes Warm White; beak is Canyon Orange.
W: Basecoat Lamp Black; dot Purple Cow and line with Light Mocha.
E: (both) Basecoat Lamp Black; line Purple Cow. Line E Canyon Orange.
N: Basecoat Light Mocha; line Purple Cow. Line N Lamp Black.
Final Details
Glue black rhinestones to bat for eyes and belly. Glue to surface
Glue flower to hat.
Glue Halloween banner to hands. Glue black rhinestones to hands to cover banner wire.
Glue flowers to surface
Glue tombstone over flower stems. Glue flower to tombstone.
Glue rhinestones to boots.
Lightly spray several coats of DecoArt Matte Sealer Spray. Allow to dry between coats.
88
89
Franken Beetle
By Kelly Hoernig
I had the opportunity to see this beetle in person behind the scenes at the Chicago Field Museum. The
back of his head looked like it had a face on it; I couldn't help naming him Franken Beetle. To
showcase this handsome fella, I placed him on a uniquely textured background. Ive also included a
short video demonstrating this eye catching technique. I hope youll be inspired to experiment with
DecoArts Modeling Paste.
Supplies:
Surface:
6"x12" Wooden Panel
Project Supplies: White Wash

White Charcoal Pencil
Stencils with a lot of interesting areas DecoArt Mediums:
Palette Knife Black Gesso
Toothbrush Black Modeling Paste
T-Square Metallic Lustre in Black Shimmer
Tape Matte Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Spray
Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Brushes: Loew-Cornell

Charcoal Grey Series 3300 #8 Shader
French Grey Blue Series 3350 #1 Liner
Khaki Tan Series 3000 #1 Round
Mississippi Mud 1" Wash
Soft Black
90
Helpful Hint:
You can add another color into the Modeling Paste for a variegated look; just don't blend too much so
the color stays.
Special Video for Image Transferring:

Franken Beetle Modeling Paste Background Video Link
https://vimeo.com/217938783
Password: boo2you
Preparation:
Apply entire surface and edges with 2 coats of Gesso. I used slip slap "x" strokes to add texture and
not get it entirely covered.
With White Charcoal Pencil go over body and head on back side of the tracing paper. Using the T-
square, align the antennae so they are parallel to the edge of the board and place a little off center.
Tape down. Gently rub over the beetle body and head to transfer the lines.
Remember to watch the video to learn how the texture medium was applied.
https://vimeo.com/217938783
Password: boo2you
For the spider web, I used the stencil one way, let it dry then placed it over the center circle and
extended it going to the other side of the board. Tape the stencil in place in 2 or 3 spots. With the
Modeling Paste and the palette knife, apply over your stencils. When satisfied with the overall
coverage, untape and lift stencil straight up. Wash stencil immediately under warm water. Do this
with as many stencils as you like. I avoided the area near his body.
When stenciled areas are dry, apply White Charcoal Pencil to the back side of your tracing paper over
all the antennae, arms and legs. You only need one of the lines, not the whole rectangular shape.
Position over the body and rub over the areas to transfer the lines. White graphite paper will not
transfer over the modeling paste.
Basecoat: With #1 Round and a mix of French Grey Blue + Mississippi Mud, apply antennae, legs
and arms with a nice thick stroke. Fill body and head with a #8 shader and a touch of water to the
mix, one coat. When dry, erase all charcoal pencil marks.
91
1st Shade: With Charcoal Grey, apply shade on outer edge of eye socket, wings, top portion of head,
shoulders and to separate wings. With chisel edge of #8, put a shading line near bottom edge of
antennae sections and each section of arms and legs. Also, shade where they are attached to the body.
Highlights: Mix French Grey Blue + Khaki Tan + touch of White (Mix A). With round brush
squiggle in the highlights. The color should fade in and not be too bright. Wings, head, the arms, legs
and antennae sections closest to the body also have a highlight of this mix. Add a touch more White to
Mix A and highlight the wings in the center area again.
2nd Shading: Deepen shades with Soft Black. Put in eyes with Soft Black twice. With Mix A, shade
some of the highlights back with a watery float on the wings and face edges. With Soft Black, shade
arms and legs next to the body, deepen the split between the wings with Soft Black and the liner.
Details: Using the toothbrush and Soft Black, spatter entire piece. I did wipe away any spatters on
the facial features.
With sharp charcoal pencil, write name; then use Mix A and a liner to apply name. Spatter with this
same mix all over the front and edges. When dry, use water to erase the charcoal pencil lines under
the name.
When you are happy with all the beetle elements, use finger and the Black Shimmer to rub over the
stenciled areas lightly. It will make the raised areas sparkle just a little.
Finishing:
Spray with several light mists of varnish. Enjoy!
Here is a photo of the original beetle who served as

the inspiration for this project!
92
93
Halloween Tag Trio
By Patricia Jarrett
I had three Halloween cat themes running through my brain and finally had a breakthrough put
all three into a set of tags! They are enchanting and, and even better, are fun to paint!
Supplies:
Surface:
Wood tag, 4 1/2 x 2 3/4"; Viking Woodcrafts (www.vikingwoodcrafts.com)
Supplies:
Grey & White Graphite Paper
Ball Stylus ( Different Sizes)
Clear Plastic Ruler
Mechanical Pencil or Very Sharp Pencil
Eraser
Tracing Paper
Absorbent Paper Towels
Cotton Swabs
Identi-Pen Waterproof - (Fine Line)
Ribbon of Choice o Hang The Tags
Sticky Mesh; #TOOL582 available at Creative Arts Lifestyle; www.Creativeartslifestyle.com
94
Burnt Orange DA 016 Light Buttermilk DA 164
Cadmium Yellow DA 010 Paynes Grey DA 167
Canyon Orange DA 238 Pumpkin DA 013
Citron Green DA 235 Purple Cow DA 272
Hauser Dark Green DA 133 Purple Rain DA 327
Hauser Light Green DA 131 Slate Grey DA 068
Irish Moss DA 312 Titanium White DA 01
Lamp Black DA 067
Periodically, DecoArt discontinues paint color; however, they have provided a Conversion chart,
which can be found here:
http://decoart.com/resources/Americana_Discontinued_Colors_And_Mixing_Chart.pdf
Mediums by DecoArt:
Matte Acrylic Sealer/Finisher, DAS13
Americana Decou-Page Crystal Glitter (Optional)
Brushes by Loew-Cornell
Curved Flat 7330, sizes 6, 10 and 12
Mesa 7830, size 8
Crescent 247, 1/2, 3/8, 1/4", 1/8
JS Mid liner, #2
JS Mid liner #10/0
Large flat brush (for the large areas)
Brush Notes:
When basecoating, use the size flat or round brush that fits best in the area you are painting. I used
the Mesa brush for most of the base painting on the pieces. If necessary, in smaller areas I used the
#2 Mid Liner. The curved flat brushes are used for floating; always choosing the size that fits best
within the area. For dry brushing, I use both Crescent brushes and Domed brushes. I have listed the
brushes that I used for this project.
Preparation: Lightly sand all sides, remove the dust, and seal with the spray sealer. Lightly sand,
dust and seal the pieces a second time.
Instructions:
Base coat all 3 tags with Light Buttermilk on all sides and allow to dry.
Using a clear ruler, mark off 1/4" all the way around the front. Paint the 1/4" border and the back of
each tag with Citron Green.
When dry, use the grey graphite paper to transfer on the major outlines of each of the three designs.
(do not transfer face details, legs, dots or lines) Do place lines for cats tail, paws and the pumpkins
face.
Border: Highlight (H) around the borders with Citron Green and then shade (S) inside of the Citron
Green borders with Hauser Light Green.
Cats: Basecoat all 3 cats with Lamp Black.
95
Candy Corn Blanket: Basecoat blanket Purple Rain; transfer on the outline of the candy corn and
basecoat the top section with Titanium White; shade the bottom of the white area with a float of
Cadmium Yellow. Base the middle with Canyon Orange and (S) the bottom of the middle section with
Burnt Orange. Base the bottom section with Cadmium Yellow and (S) the bottom section with
Canyon Orange. Highlight the top of the blanket with Purple Cow and (S) the bottom and around the
candy corn with Paynes Grey.
Kitty Bow: Double load the #2 liner with Purple Rain on one side and Purple Cow on the other and
make the ribbon/bow for the cat.
Kitty Details: Using Slate Grey, (H) the cats tail, make little Vs on the inside of the cats ear, on the
cats back and on the legs (refer to photos). Trace in the details on the cat (eye, nose, whiskers, and
mouth. Using Titanium White, fill in the eye area and let dry. When dry, paint the eye Citron Green.
When this is dry, (S) float the upper eye with Hauser Dark Green. When this is dry, using thinned
Lamp Black, paint the vertical pupil. Paint a thin line of thinned Titanium White on the
upper part of the eye. Line the nose with Slate Grey and then float a (H) of the nose with darkest area
at the top. Using one of the crescent brushes or dry brush you are most comfortable with, dry brush
the cheek area with Pumpkin. Then using a mix of Pumpkin and Titanium White thinned and make a
line for the mouth. The whiskers are thinned Titanium White and make a thin line on the top of the
eye area. Using thinned Purple Rain, paint stitching line around the Citron Green border
Cat in the Hat Tag: Highlight (H) around the border with Citron Green and then shade (S) inside
of the Citron Green border with Hauser Light Green.
Hat: Base the hat and brim with Canyon Orange. Paint the lines on the hat with thinned Purple
Rain and Titanium White. When dry, float a (H) of Cadmium Orange on the sides of the peak of the
96
hat and along upper brim of the hat. Float a (S) with Burnt Orange in between the ears above the
brim of the hat and under the brim of the hat.
Cape: Basecoat with Purple Rain; add large dip dots of Titanium White; when dry, place a smaller
dip dot of Canyon Orange. When dry, float a (H) on the shoulders with Purple Cow and a (S) with
Paynes Grey under the bow and at the inside of the cape (next to cats body).
Bow tie: Citron Green, when dry, float a (S) with Hauser Dark Green.
Details: Make a narrow line with thinned Titanium White on the upper eye area.
Using thinned Slate Grey, outline the ^ on the ears and outline of the nose and mouth area. Float a
(H) on the nose with deepest shading at the top of the nose.
Float a (H) on the mouth area with darkest (H) toward the bottom of the mouth. Using thinned
Canyon Orange, make a line for the lower lip. Dry brush the cats cheeks with Pumpkin. Using a fine
liner and thinned Titanium White, paint in the whiskers over the eyes and under the eyes.
Border: Using thinned Purple Rain, paint stitching line around the Citron Green border.
Pumpkin Cat Tag: Highlight (H) around the border with Citron Green and then shade (S) inside
of the Citron Green border with Hauser Light Green.
Pumpkin: Basecoat with Burnt Orange. Position the Sticky Mesh and use the Crescent Brush to dry
brush Pumpkin over the entire pumpkin. If you have over-painted areas, remove with a wet Q-tip.
Highlight the outside of the jack-o-lantern and inner section with a float of Pumpkin. Shade the edge
closest to the inner section with Burnt Orange.
Facial Details: Base the eyes, nose and mouth with Cadmium Yellow and (H) float at the top of the
eyes, nose and mouth with Light Buttermilk and then (S) float with Canyon Orange.
Cat: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Float a (H) with Slate Grey on the top of the head, outside of the
paws and on the tail. Make a little ^ on the ears with a small float followed with thinned Slate Grey to
reinforce the ^. Using the thinned Slate Grey, line the nose and mouth area and float (H) at the top of
the nose with Slate Grey; with deepest float at the top of the nose. Float a small area where the mouth
is and then paint a line with thinned Canyon Orange at the lower lip area.
Eyes: Base with Titanium White. When thoroughly dry, repaint this area with Citron Green. Shade
the top of the eye with Hauser Dark Green and when dry, using thinned Lamp Black, make the
vertical pupil on the eyes.
Details:
Using dry brush technique and Pumpkin, dry brush the cheek area. Next using thinned Titanium
White, make thin lines for the top of the eyes, whiskers and upper eye whiskers. Using thinned Lamp
Black (or an Identi-Pen) line the claws on the paws and the deely-bobbers on the top of the cats
head. At the end of the bobbers is a series of thin lines using Purple Rain and Purple Cow with a dip
dot of Citron Green. Using thinned Purple Rain, paint stitching line around the Citron Green border.
97
Finishing: I used the Crystal Glitter Decou-Page as the finish coat for the tags. This is optional and
the tags can be spray sealed (couple of coats). Be sure to seal all sides. Attach the ribbons to the tags
and you are good to go!
Note: The Sticky Mesh used in this pattern is a wondrous product; it can be used repeatedly. The
Decou-Page crystal glitter is also a fun product. I definitely will be using it again!
This pattern can be reduce or enlarged to fit any surface. My designs are for you to paint for fun or profit but
not for mass distribution. I would appreciate you giving me credit for the design should you paint it to sell on
EBay, Etsy, Facebook, web sites, etc. This should not be photocopied, scanned or photographed for
distribution without my permission. The pattern may be hand-traced for personal use or for teaching purposes
only. If you have any questions concerning these, please do not hesitate to contact me at
thesunflowercupboard@gmail.com
98
99
Sam Scarecrow Board
By Karen Wisner-Dyar2017 Karen Wisner-Dyar
100
Sam Scarecrow is waiting to welcome all who enter your home! I love this guy with all his pumpkins
and sunflowers! Paint him on this cute board or enlarge the size and paint him on an old ironing
board. Hope you will have lots of fun with this new design!
Supplies:
Surface:
Board BD-88 (17"x 3 1/2") Available at www.smoothcutwoodproducts.com
Project Supplies: Mediums:

Black Micron Pen 01 Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte
Ball Stylus
Dark Transfer Paper
Tracing Paper
Cotton Buds

Avocado Evergreen Moon Yellow
Black Green Honey Brown Sand
Burnt Sienna Jade Green Slate Grey
Cadmium Yellow Lamp Black Snow White
Camel Light Avocado Soft Sage
Dark Chocolate Light Buttermilk Tangerine
Deep Midnight Blue Lilac Uniform Blue
Dioxazine Purple Milk Chocolate Winter Blue
Brushes:
Round sizes 1 through 8
Flat Wash 3/4"
Shaders 14 & 20
Script Liners (long bristles) 5/0, 10/0 & 20/0
Mop 1/4 & 1/2
Fabric Rounds 2
Which brush do I use?

Round Brushes for basecoats
5/0 Script Liner to paint the large vines
10/0 Script Liner to paint cracks and details
20/0 to paint fine detail lines and highlight strokes
3/4" flat wash to float background areas
Shaders to float color, shade and highlight
Fabric Rounds (or Scumblers) to drybrush inner highlights and cheeks
Mops to blend floated areas
Cotton Swab as a mini mop
Shading & Highlighting Guide: As you paint, please refer to the line art pattern to see
the placement of shading (///) and highlighting (...). For small areas, refer to the photo.
101
Floating a Wash Color: Did you know Karen has developed a basecoating technique
that she calls Floating a Wash Color. This technique is used in certain basecoated areas to
achieve a graduated color.
First, wet the surface so its damp; next load your brush as if you are side load floating but with
more paint than you ordinarily use for shading (load the brush with a wider amount of paint than
done for shading or highlighting.) Apply the paint in the same manner as floating.
You are working the color from the outer edge of the design and "floating the color" in towards the
center, so when it is finished, the darker color is on the edges with a lighter tone on the inner areas.
This sometimes takes 2 coats to achieve. Use the mop or cotton swab to soften color and blend the
color, working toward the center of the design. While its drying, move to another section. Karen
says, I work from top to bottom so I never run into a wet paint area.
Preparation:
Sand wood surface and wipe away dust. Basecoat the entire board with Light Buttermilk; repeat with
two additional applications, allowing paint to dry between coats. After the paint is dry, sand again
lightly and wipe all dust away.
Trace pattern onto tracing paper using the Black Micron Pen. Transfer the basic design lines onto the
board, using the small end of a stylus and transfer paper. Transfer the detail lines as needed.
Instructions: Shade background/basecoat and float color.
Sky Background: Float color onto the background using Winter Blue. Let dry, repeat another layer
of color. (Two soft layers of color are better than one that is too dark.)
Sunflowers: Basecoat petals using Cadmium Yellow and float brown centers
using Honey Brown. Float green stems and leaves using Jade Green. Shade
petals using Burnt Sienna; shade centers using Milk Chocolate; shade stem and
leaves with Avocado. Highlight petals using Snow White, let dry then paint
highlight strokes. Paint petal line details using Burnt Sienna. Highlight leaves
and stem using Moon Yellow. Make dark dots on centers using the large end of
the stylus and Dark Chocolate paint. Apply the light center dots using the small
end of the stylus and Sand. Paint Avocado leaf details. Apply a Snow White highlight
stroke to the stem.
Pumpkins and Pumpkin Head: Basecoat all the pumpkins and pumpkin
head using Tangerine. Basecoat the leaves using Soft Sage. Basecoat the
nose using Cadmium Yellow, the eyes and lower mouth using Lamp Black.
Float the color onto the stems using Milk Chocolate. Shade the pumpkins
and nose using Burnt Sienna. Shade the leaves using Avocado. Paint stem
details using Dark Chocolate, let dry then shade. (Do not apply the longer
stem vine on the hat pumpkin, until the hat is completed.) Float leaves
using Burnt Sienna (see finished photo). Highlight leaf closest to the face
using Moon Yellow. Add Avocado leaf detail lines and the lines on head.
Highlight large lower stem using Snow White. Float edge highlights and
drybrush inner pumpkin highlights using Moon Yellow. Highlight eyes and
mouth using Slate Grey. Paint a highlight stroke on the nose using Snow
White. Paint Lamp Black eyebrows.
102
Scarecrow Hat: Float hat color using Camel. Basecoat purple hatband using Lilac; shade hat using
Milk Chocolate. Shade band using Dioxazine Purple, let dry then apply dots using the large ball stylus.
Apply hat cracks and details using Dark Chocolate, let dry then deepen the darker shaded areas.
Highlight hatband using Snow White. Drybrush hat highlights using Light Buttermilk.
Scarf: Float scarf color using Camel, let dry then repeat and let dry. Apply stripes using Light
Buttermilk. Apply dots using Uniform Blue. Paint small angled lines using Milk Chocolate. Paint
cracks using Dark Chocolate. Shade scarf using Milk Chocolate, let dry then deepen the darkest areas
using Dark Chocolate. Highlight using Snow White.
Coat: Float coat color using Light Avocado; shade the coat using Evergreen; deepen shading using
Black Green, let dry then apply the details. Once paint is dry, drybrush center highlights and float
edge highlights using Light Buttermilk. Apply a Dark Chocolate shade behind the corn.
Twig Arms and Legs: Float color onto arms and legs using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Apply details
using Dark Chocolate, let dry then shade. (The tiny twig vines and leaves will be added at the very end
when all the vines and leaves are done.)
Gloves, Buttons, Pocket, Hangtag and Rope Belt: Basecoat gloves, buttons, pocket, hangtag
and rope belt using Sand, let dry. Apply Milk Chocolate details on the pocket, gloves and hangtag.
Shade gloves, belt and hangtag using Honey Brown, let dry. Shade pocket and buttons using Milk
Chocolate; deepen shading on the gloves and belt. Highlight the gloves and belt using Snow White.
Paint Lamp Black stitches on the pocket edges and buttons, then dot. Paint "Fall" on the hangtag and
the hole using Lamp Black. Paint Snow White tiny highlight strokes on the belt and lower button.
Paint three Camel stems coming out of the pocket. Paint tiny greenery on the glove holes and greenery
on the stems in the pocket, using Avocado.
103
Purple Shirt and Pants: Basecoat shirt using Lilac.
Float pant color using Uniform Blue. Dot shirt
using Dioxazine Purple, using the small end of
stylus, let dry then shade with Diox Purple. Shade
pants using Deep Midnight Blue, let dry then
paint cracks, stitches and details. (not the X
stitches on the pocket) Highlight pants using
Sand. Paint pocket X stitches using Lamp Black,
then dot ends.
Corn Helpful Tip: When applying the corn

kernels, load the smaller shader brush. Tip it so
the corner tip with the paint touches the surface.
Pull half of the kernel and move on to the next one.
Once all the halves are on, go back and add the
other half of each one. When highlighting each
kernel, only do one side of each, using the same
technique.
Corn: Float green areas of corn using Jade Green.

Float corncob area using Camel. Shade green
areas using Avocado and cob area using Burnt
Sienna. Deepen the green shading using
Evergreen, let dry and apply the lines. Apply the
corn kernels using Cadmium Yellow as described
under "Helpful Tip". Once kernels are dry,
highlight using Snow White. Highlight green
husks using Moon Yellow. Deepen the shading to
separate the husks more, using a small amount of
Dark Chocolate. Paint tiny corn silk at the top of
each cob using Dark Chocolate.
Crow: Basecoat crow using Slate Grey, let dry.

Shade crow using Lamp Black. Once shading is
dry, paint a tiny "x" eye using Lamp Black.
Vines and Tiny Leaves: Paint vines using Dark

Chocolate. (Don't forget to add the small pumpkin
stem vine on the hat and the vines attached to the
twig arms and legs.) Paint Avocado leaves.
Finishing:
Spray the entire painted surfaces using Matte Spray Varnish, let dry then repeat.
Any questions or concerns, please contact me:

Karen Wisner-Dyar - kdolls.designs@gmail.com or www.homespuncountrycollectibles.com
104
105
PixelatedPalette
2018 Theme Calendar
Instructions
Month Themes due by NOTES/IDEAS
Mixed Media/Valentines
Dec. 1st 2017
January
February Spring/Easter Jan. 1st 2018
March Home Dcor/Seasonal/ Feb. 1st

Mother's Day
April Seasonal Themes/Father's Day March 1st
May Patriotic/Vacation April 1st
Summer/ Back to School

June May 1st
Teacher Gifts
July CHRISTMAS IN JULY!

June 1st
Ornament Issue
August
July 1st
Halloween
September Fall/Thanksgiving/Home Dcor August 1st
October
Christmas Sept. 1st
Last Minute Gifts/ Winter Themes October 1st

November
December New Years/Creativity/Trends November 1st
We accept projects on a year round basis; no need to wait to submit your idea!
Send a photo of the finished project or a well-detailed design sketch to:
Senior Editor, Lindsey Applegate at: palettepixels@gmail.com
All submitted projects must be unpublished, original artwork.
Upon approval, you will be required to submit the instructions, a short

introduction paragraph, line art and high-resolution color pictures
No later than the deadline shown above.
App/rev/6.17
106
Design Call
The Pixelated Palette is currently taking submissions for winter

designs for future issues. To submit, send a quality photo and
brief description of your original, unpublished design to
palettepixels@gmail.com.
107
Readers Gallery
Original design by Donna Hodson, Submitted by Milena Lanka

Have you painted a piece from the Pixelated Palette and would like to share? Send a
photo of your creation to Lindsey at palettepixels@gmail.com and you could be
featured in a future issue!
108

June 2017 Full Issue PDF

Enviado por

Dados do documento

Título original

Direitos autorais

Formatos disponíveis

Compartilhar este documento

Compartilhar ou incorporar documento

Opções de compartilhamento

Você considera este documento útil?

Este conteúdo é inapropriado?

Direitos autorais:

Formatos disponíveis

June 2017 Full Issue PDF

Enviado por

Direitos autorais:

Formatos disponíveis

2

June 2017 Table of Contents

to the spooky, Halloween edition of

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Brushes by FM Dynasty: Available at www.TheBrushGuys.com

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Wheat Stalks: Shade with Milk

Harvest Lettering: Shade with Red Iron Oxide along the

Harvest Lettering: Highlight the tops and

Cindys words of encouragement:

Glamour Dust Paints by DecoArt:

Mediums/Other Products by DecoArt:

Preparing Your Screen and Frame for Painting

Sculpting the Candy Corn and Bat Buttons:

Eyes & Fangs: Base coat Warm White

Frame: Basecoat with Green Tea

Glamour Dust Glitter Paint:

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics:

DecoArt Media Mister:

Brushes: Faux Squirrel by Dynasty; Available at wwwthebrushguys.com

Pen Work: Loosely outline the star, bats and lettering.

Seal: Give the whole project a coat of Matt Spray Sealer.

By Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Brushes by Royal Aqualon:

Highlights: Dry brush highlighting across the forehead,

Cheeks: Dry brush nice round cheeks with Bright Salmon.

Flesh details: Float just a touch of Bright Salmon in the tip of

Wash in the centers with Moon Yellow. Wash in

Paint Splats on Shirt:

Paint Cauldron: Paint with Graphite. Dry brush highlighting

Collar: Paint with Bleached Sand. Dry

Hatband: Paint the hatband with Wild Orchid.

Hair: Using your 3/8

Project Supplies: Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Color Mottling Technique:

Transfer basic lines

Gear Eyes: Using the small dome brush, pounce around

Mouth: Use the #4 flat brush to paint the mouth

Collar: Basecoat with Hauser Lt Green; dry brush

Sign: Basecoat Lamp Black; paint the letters with

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

DecoArt Media Misters:

Brushes: Papillon from Artists Club:

Shake mister gently; hold the mister approximately 10 to 12

Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to finely outline something in

Hats: Both hats are done the same.

Cat: Basecoat solidly in Black; drybrush with Blue Harbor.

Bat: Basecoat the entire bat in Black; drybrush

Pumpkin: Basecoat solidly with Burnt Orange.

Lettering: The lettering is painted solidly with Black. I highlighted

Now that we have completed our project, it is

Now you are ready to display your unique and

Copyright 2017 Painted by Me, Sharon B

Stencils * Brushes * Patterns * Paints *

I am equally at fault for grabbing a bag of chips and bringing it to my painting

For more information on healthy snacking: http://www.infusedveggies.com/5-healthy-snacks/

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Ground: Shade from the ground line and under

Basecoat the following items Lamp Black:

Witches: Highlight the front edges of the witches

Caldron: Highlight the sides with floats of Sour