Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) .

2012 89

TAN MAN LCH S VE

HNH DANG NGI VIET THE KY XVIII
Nguyn Duy Chnh*
Thnh thoang tren bao ch hay tren mang internet chung ta lai c oc
nhng tranh luan, ban cai ve hnh dang, y phuc, phong tuc cua ngi Viet thi
co. Khi mieu ta lch s tren giay chung ta co nhieu t do v khong phai e cap
en nhng chi tiet be ngoai nhng khi tai tao mot xa hoi, mot tap the tren
hnh ve, trong kch trng, phim anh th van e phc tap hn rat nhieu v tac
gia, ao dien phai am tng khong nhng chi tiet lch s nhan vat ma con ca
boi canh va moi trng la ni xay ra bien co o.
Hnh anh ve ngi Viet cach ay vai tram nam rat hiem v sach v viet
ve cac dan toc vung ong Nam A chu trong en viec sinh hoat hn la nhan
dang va viec ghi nhan mot khu vc bang hnh ve la mot viec hiem hoi. Do o
khi phai mieu ta sinh hoat ngay xa, ngi ta thng s dung tr tng tng,
t khi nghien cu tng tan nen khong hiem nhng tng ai, tranh ve hay
phim anh tuy at c nhu cau th hieu cua quan chung nhng lai khong va
y nhng nha chuyen mon, ma qua s hieu biet cua ho th rat chng mat, noi
theo ngon ng mi hom nay la phan cam.
Hai Ba Trng oi khan vanh day the ky XX, lnh cua hai ba mac binh
phuc thi Nguyen con quan Han th that uoi sam theo loi Man Thanh la hnh
anh chung toi con nh c trong bo Lch s Viet Nam bang tranh [Manh
Quynh ve, Thieu Bao ke] mua nam 1956 tai hoi ch Trng ua Phu Tho!
Nhng sai sot o co le khong phai co y ma v thi ai khong cho tac gia
biet c nhieu nh chung ta hom nay. Nh vao ky thuat mi, nhng ai yeu
thch hnh anh cu co the tm thay nhieu hnh anh trong mot so trang web ma
trang chu day cong su tam, sap xep.(1)
Trong bai viet ngan nay, chung toi xin a ra mot so tai lieu va hnh anh
trong sach v khao ta ve nhan dang cua ngi Viet chung ta vao khoang the ky
XVII, XVIII la giai oan ma cha phat minh ra may anh nen moi mieu ta eu
phai thc hien bang but ch, mau nc hay mc en, phan ln do hoa s Tay
phng thc hien. Ngoai ra, trong mot so du ky, chung ta con thay hnh ve mot
so sinh hoat trieu nh hay o th nhng chi tiet th con nhieu iem ang ban
v khong phu hp vi nhng sinh hoat truyen thong nh ta a biet.
ang Ngoai
Theo cac giao s, trong cong tac truyen ba ao Hoi, ngi Ba T (Persian)
thanh cong kha nhieu mot so hai ao nhng lai t thanh cong tren at lien
khu vc ong Nam A. Tuy nhien, ngi dan ban x du nhap va bat chc
van hoa Trung ong ve y phuc, thc pham, nghe thuat... nen y phuc cua ngi
Champa ang Trong hau nh hoan toan chu anh hng cua Ba T: ao dai,

* California, Hoa Ky.

90 Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) . 2012

khan quan au va co le cung anh hng sau am en loi an mac cua ngi Viet.
Chnh trieu nh Xiem La cai cach y phuc theo loi Ba T bao gom ca ao dai,
giay, dao gam eo hong va khan oi au.(2)
Nam 1687, vua Xiem Narai yeu cau thay giang Tachard a mot phai
oan Xiem La sang gap Giao hoang Innocent XI. Cam au la ba s than Xiem
la Ok-khun Wiser Puban, Ok-khun Chamnan Chaichong va Ok-muen Pipith
Raja mang theo nhieu qua cap va mot quoc th viet tren nhng tam vang
la. Phai oan khi hanh ngay 3 thang 1 nam 1688 tren chiec tau co ten la
Gaillard en Paris ngay 14 thang 9 cung nam. ac biet trong so ngi cung
i co ba thay giang (catechist)(3) ngi Viet Nam va con lu lai mot so hnh ve
chan dung ho nen ngay nay chung ta con hnh dung c phan nao nhan dang
ngi Viet the ky th XVII nh the nao.
Ba thay giang nay khong thuoc phai oan Xiem La - d nhien - ma ho
co nhiem vu rieng c giao phan ang Ngoai gi sang Roma e yeu cau toa
thanh Vatican cho cac tu s dong Jesuit c tr lai hoat ong.(4)
Ba thay giang o theo tai lieu toa thanh co ten la Dionissio Li-njian, 35
tuoi, Michel Foghanin, 34 tuoi va mot ngi tre hn Antonio Van Kiet, 21 tuoi
lam thong ngon.(5) Ba bc chan dung nay eu do hoa s Carlo Maratta ve nam
1688. Theo chi tiet ghi tren hnh th ho la ngi ang Ngoai (Tonkinese), net
mat thanh tu gan giong nh ngi Viet ngay nay. Nhng thay giang nay co le
c a t ang Ngoai sang Xiem e ao tao theo chu trng cua giam muc
Lambert roi thap tung phai oan Xiem La sang Phap.(6) Co le ay la nhng
ngi Viet Nam c tiep xuc va hoc hoi van minh Tay phng sm sua nhat,
lai co dp sang tan Au Chau trong mot nhiem vu kha quan trong. Chung toi
khong biet ba ngi nay co phai la nhng ngi Viet au tien sang Paris ma
tai lieu con ghi lai hay khong?
iem ang chu y la nhng thay giang nay xoa toc, khong bui len va cung
khong oi mu. ay la tap quan cua ngi Viet hay cua nha chung? Giovanni
Filippo de Marini trong Relation nouvelle et curieuse des royaumes de Tunquin
et de Lao (1666) co
viet rang ...ngay
xa hoi con noi
thuoc nc Tau,
an ong va an
ba [tc ngi mien
Bac] con bi toc
ngc, chai co th
t va ben bang long
uoi nga, tren
chum chiec mao;
nhng t ngay ho
c t do, muon to
rang ho a thoat ly
va khac y kien vi
Ba thay giang ang Ngoai i cung vi s than Xiem La sang Paris nam ngi Trung Quoc,
1688. Theo Siam and the Vatican in the Seventeenth Century, 2001, tr. 91. ho e toc giai [sic],
Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) . 2012 91

phu xuong vai, khong chai. Toc cang en, khong buoc, giai va e hon on bao
nhieu lai cang c chuong....(7) Noi thuoc e cap en ay khong phai la thi
ky t the ky th nhat trc Tay lch en the ky th X ma la thi ky nha Minh
sang chiem nc ta au the ky XV. Trong nhng nam o, quan nha Minh bat
dan ta phai bo y phuc, tap quan e theo loi cua ngi Trung Hoa. Sau khi vua
Le Thai To anh uoi c ngi Tau ra khoi b coi, dan ta lai tr lai theo
phong tuc cu. Pham nh Ho co viet:
...i co gia th bui toc len tren nh au, lay cai mu bang vai tham oi
len cho chat. Cho nen mu bien th nhon au, mu mien th dai nh cai ong,
khan oi th lam trung ai noi cao len, eu la lam cai cho e cha bum toc.
Ngi nc ta th bo xoa toc, khong can g phai oi mu cao, vay muon bien tuc
di-phong th phai i ang vng-gia lam dan-da en het i mi xong c.
an ba i co van co mu e che toc, an ba ta th ch dung khan lt e
cuon toc ma thoi, luc yet kien bac ton trng th lai xoa toc xuong e lam knh
le. i vua Le Hien-ton mi cho nhng ke cung-nhan bui toc lech ma oi mu,
kieu mu ay tron ma trung-ai cao, duy luc hau thng th oi cai mu ay. en
luc ra tau nhac th van oi mot th mu tron ch inh, khong khac g cac cung
tan hau trong vng-phu. Con cac ba menh-phu ngoai-nh th cach oi mu
cha co nh-che.
Vua inh Tien-hoang mi che ra mot th khan t-phng bnh-nh
kieu no vuong ma tren nh phang, lam bang da, o la mot th
quan-trang, i sau mi oi lam th mu luc-lang ma thap bt phan tren,
che bang mot th lua boi bang sn, o la mot th te-phuc, goi la mu bnh-
nh .
...Ta khi nho thng trong thay cac bac tien-boi khi nhan-c thng oi
mot th mu bao-nh bang ma-v, kieu no tron ma nh au phang, cao o
mot thc. Hoac oi khan bat-tien , nha s-th th thng oi khan bc-can
va khan bat-tien, hai th ay eu khong phai la th cong-phuc.(8)
Viec thay oi y phuc ang Ngoai c tien hanh quy mo nhat di thi
Nguyen. Vua Minh Menh t nam 1827 a bat dan Quang Bnh mac theo loi
ang Trong va en nam 1828 th bat dan Bac Ha oi theo y phuc cua trieu
nh. Viec thong nhat y phuc gap nhieu chong oi nen en nam 1838 lai ban
du rang:
Ngay trc t Linh Giang tr ra Bac, dan van mac y phuc nh cu. a
ban du truyen lenh sa oi theo y phuc t Quang Bnh tr vao trong, e phong
tuc ong nhat. Lai cho thi han rong rai, khien dan c thong tha may sam
quan ao. T nam Minh Menh th 8 (1828) en nay, a 10 nam roi, van nghe
noi dan cha sa oi. Va lai, t Quang Bnh tr vao Nam, mu khan quan ao
eu theo phong cach cua nha Han, nha Minh, xem kha te chnh. Theo phong
tuc cu cua ngi mien Bac con trai ong kho, con gai mac ao that vat, di mac
vay. ep xau a thay ro ret. Co ke a theo tuc tot, cung co ke van gi nguyen
thoi cu. Phai chang co y lam trai lenh tren? Cac tnh thanh nen em y ay ma
ch bao, khuyen du nhan dan. Han trong nam nay, phai nhat te thay oi. Neu
au nam sau, con gi theo y phuc cu, se b toi.(9)
92 Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) . 2012

Mot ieu kha chac chan, dan chung mien Bac luon luon uy k viec b
ngi Tau ong hoa nen tm u moi cach e gi lay net truyen thong ac trng
cua ngi Viet va khong anh hng Trung Hoa qua manh me nh dan chung
tai ang Trong. Ngc lai, vng trieu Nguyen v muon khac vi chua Trnh
nen ngay t nhng ngay au tien tach ri khoi mien Bac, chua Nguyen a tien
hanh cai cach y phuc theo loi ngi Han nen mien Nam dan chung mac quan
ch khong mac vay na.
ang Trong
V mien Nam c khai pha sau nay, a so la dan t x en lap nghiep
nen ngi ang Trong a chung hn. Theo nhng hnh anh cua ngi ngoai
quoc ghi nhan khi ho co dp i ngang th Nam Ha tng oi khac biet vi Bac
Ha. Ngi ang Trong van khan, khong phai la loai khan quan chat nh ngi
mien Bac vung sn cc con lu lai en hom nay ma la loai khan van long, neu
khong quan sat ky co the tng la mot loai mu. Loai khan quan nay hien nay
ngi Cham van con oi tren au, xem ra rat gan vi tap quan cua nhng quoc
gia Nam A t Trung ong, An o en Ma Lai, Nam Dng...
Nam 1792 khi hoa s
William Alexander thap
tung phai oan cua Lord
Macartney sang Trung
Hoa e ieu nh viec
buon ban a co dp i
ngang ang Trong.
Thang 5 nam 1793 phai
oan ghe lai Tourane
(a Nang) hn hai tuan
e lay them lng thc,
nc uong cung ieu
tr mot so thuy thu b
nhiem benh. Trong dp
nay, William Alexander
a ghi lai c mot so
sinh hoat ve ngi va
canh vat Nam Ha trong
o co hai bc chan dung
ang chu y la hnh ve
Bc hnh vien quan cap thap Ten tieu ong xach ieu,
vnh a Nang, (c Sotheby Vien Bao tang Maidstone
mot vien quan cap thap
a ra ban au gia ngay mong 1 (Maidstone Museums and (mandarin of inferior
thang 4 nam 1976). Art Gallery). Image of China, rank) va mot tieu ong
Image of China, 1980, tr. 31. 1980, phu ban VI, tr. 49. xach ieu, trau, quat
cho ong nay. Nguyen uy
cua hai bc hnh nay c chnh tac gia ghi lai trong Nhat ky (Journal) cua ong
ngay mong 3 thang 6 nam 1793 nh sau:
Sang nay mot vien quan t trieu nh cung vi nhieu tuy tong a len
xem tau cua chung toi. Ong ta vao trong cabin cua toi vi mot vien quan khac
Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) . 2012 93

cap di (mandarin of inferior rank) va ngi nay chu ngoi trong vai phut e
toi ve phac (slight sketch). Ong ta co ve rat thch va nan n oi toi cho ong ay
bc ve nay nhng toi t choi va cho ong ta mot ban sao hay mot bc tranh khac
nhng ong ta khong chu. Toi nhat nh gi bc hoa nen ong ta gian d bo i.
Ten ay t (mang trau cau, du va kiem... cho ong ta) a t tien lay mot so o
nghe va mot so vat dung cua toi e rai rac chung quanh...(10)
Rieng hnh ten tieu ong la tranh ve bang mau nc tren giay kho 36 x
20cm xem ra c ve t ngi that, khong phai ch la mot bc hoa mieu ta y
phuc hay nhan dang. Tieu ong nay la ngi xach ieu cho vien quan ma William
Alexander a nhac en trong Nhat ky. John Barrow [ngi cung trong phai oan
Macartney] trong tac pham Travels in China a cho rang ten ay t ep-trai
tuoi khoang t mi-bon en mi-tam [handsome fourteen-to-eighteen-year-old
pipe-bearer] nay co the ong them ca vai tnh nhan (ong tnh luyen ai) cua vien
quan nhng co le nghi van o i hi xa v mot vien quan co ngi i theo lo viec
ieu om trong xa hoi Viet Nam la chuyen bnh thng.(11)
Hnh ve vien quan va tieu ong ve sau c gop chung tren mot bc
ong ban hoa do James Caldwall khac in nam 1796 kem theo trong tac pham
Miscellaneous Notices relating to China (London, 1822), [hoa ban 16] di nhan
e A Mandarin or Magistrate of Tourane Attended by his Pipe-bearer [Mot
vien quan hay quan toa Tourane cung vi ten xach ieu]. Bc tranh nay so
vi nguyen ban vung ve va cng coi hn, thieu han net linh hoat nguyen thuy.
Chung toi cung con thay mot so ban sao tng t trong cac sach v khac.(12)
Mot bc hnh khac cung ve ngi ang
Trong la mot ngi eo kiem sau lng,
co the la ban phac e ve sinh hoat cua
Tourane trong mot bc tranh khac ve mot
nhom ngi. Trong hnh chung ta thay
ngi nay e ria tha, oi khan tren au
trong nh ngi Cham ngay nay. Net ve
t nhien ma sach v ghi nhan la khuon
mat thanh tu cua ngi dan vung a
Nang (gentle-faced native of the Tourane
Bay region).
Ket luan
e duy tr s oc lap ve van hoa, hau
nh trong moi thi ky, ngi Viet eu
Ngi ang Trong eo kiem. muon mnh khac vi ngi Trung Hoa
Maidstone Museums and Art Gallery. ve y phuc, ngon ng hay ch viet. Anh
Tranh ch va mau nc hng cua phng Bac khong lam chung
18,2x10,5cm. Image of China, 1980, tr. 37. ta b ong hoa ma giup cho sinh hoat
cua ngi mnh phong phu hn. Gi cho
mnh c dai toc, en rang la mot no lc khong nho.
Nam inh Dau, Van Lch th 25 [1597], Phung Khac Khoan sang s nha
Minh gap s than Trieu Tien la Ly Tuy Quang, hai ngi th van qua lai oi
ap khien ho Ly phai phuc tai. Co ieu nha Minh trc ay nhan ho Mac cau
94 Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) . 2012

phong, ban cho chc An Nam o thong s, nay ho Le sai s sang to cao ho Mac
tiem ngoi, xin oi lai nen vua Minh cha bang long. S than nc ta phai lai
Yen Kinh en hn na nam e keu xin, co dp sinh hoat vi ngi nc khac.
Trong Chi Phong tap la di van cua Ly Tuy Quang con mot oan ve viec
giao thiep vi Phung Khac Khoan nh sau:
...S than ho Phung, ten Khac Khoan, hieu Ngh Trai tuoi vao khoang
70, hnh dang that la lung, rang en, toc bt, ao chung dai tay ao rong, dung
vai mn nguyen tam trum au nh khan cua nha s, na con lai th ru ra sau
lng dai en qua vai.
Ngi o tuy rat gia nhng tinh lc trang kien, luc nao cung oc sach viet
lach khong ngh. Moi khi vao trieu nghe khuyet th bui toc oi khan, an mac y
het nh loi cua thien trieu nhng xem ve mat th nh khong thoai mai, va ve
en nha la ci ra ngay.
S oan tong cong 23 ngi eu bt toc ca. Quy nhan eu nhuom rang
con ha nhan th mac ao ngan, i chan khong, dau mua ong cung khong co
giay v g ca. Ay la tuc cua ho nh the. Ni cua ho th ngu tren ging, khong
ngu tren lo gach [nguyen van khang () la ging bang gach di ot than e
chong lanh cua ngi Trung Hoa mien Bac].
Ho an uong cung nh ngi Hoa nhng khong sach se bang. Quan ao
phan nhieu bang lua trn khong theu thua sac s. Ve hnh dang th ho thap
ngi, mat sau, trong nh kh vn. Tnh tnh on hoa, hien lanh, gioi van t,
rat thch tap kiem, phep anh kiem cua ho khac han Ky hieu tan th,(13) muon
hoc len cua ho nhng ho gi b mat khong truyen day. Tieng noi cua ho ngan
va dung hp khau thanh, trong o ch co mot ngi biet tieng Han, dch ra e
hai ben hieu nhau.
Ve ch viet th net ch rat khac la, khong the nao hieu c.(14) Luc au
toi muon th xem ho co biet ch khong nen viet mot bai dai gi cho ho th s
than lien hoa lai. May lan nh the nen ve sau moi khi gap Tuy Quang lien lam
th tang ngay...(15)
Xem nh the, viec duy tr ban sac va tinh hoa la viec t nghn xa cua
ngi Viet.
NDC
CHU THCH
(1) http://nguyentl.free.fr/html/cadre_sommaire_fr.htm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/sets/
(2) But the Persians had more success in art and design than religion; their elaborate formal
costumes caught the fancy of King Narai, who changed court dress to Persian style, complete
with slippers, long robes, daggers, and imposing headdresses. Michael Smithies & Luigi
Bressan: Siam and the Vatican in the seventeenth century (Bangkok: River Books, 2001) tr. 17.
(3) Thay giang la nhng tr ta do cac tha sai Dong Ten (Jesuits) ao tao [co the c thu
phong linh muc] va thng la nhng ngi trc tiep en cac nha dan e truyen ao. Ho c
la chon trong nhng ngi co kha nang va c o.
(4) ...three Tonkinese catechists who were going to Rome as representatives of the Christians
in their country seeking the reinstatement of the Jesuits there. Michael Smithies & Luigi
Bressan, sd, tr. 84.
Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 8-9 (97-98) . 2012 95

(5) Tren nhng bc hnh nay co e ch Han nhng oc khong ro nen khong biet ten thc cua
ho la g.
(6) Xem them Trng Ba Can (chu bien). Lch s phat trien Cong giao Viet Nam, Tap I: Thi ky
khai pha va hnh thanh (t khi thuy cho ti cuoi the ky XVIII) (Ha Noi: Nxb Ton giao, 2008)
tr. 232-4.
(7) Xa hoi Viet-Nam t the-ky th XVII (Nguyen Trong Phan dch), tap ch Thanh ngh so 25,
16 Novembre 1942, tr. 8.
(8) Pham nh Ho, Vu trung tuy but (ong Chau dch), tap ch Nam phong so 123, Nov. 1927,
tr. 456-7.
(9) Minh Menh chnh yeu. Ban dch Le Phuc Thien, Sai Gon, 1974, tap 3, tr. 283 (dan theo o
c Hung Ve cau ca: Thang Tam co chieu vua ra..., Trung tam Bao ton Di tch Co o Hue
- Tap ch Xa & Nay: Nhng van e lch s ve trieu ai cuoi cung Viet Nam, 2002), tr. 91.
(10) This morning a Mandarin from court with many attendants came on board to see our ship.
He came into my cabin with another [mandarin] of inferior rank who sat a few minutes while
I made a slight sketch of him at which he seemed highly pleased and pressed me to let him
have it, which I declined, and offered him any other prints instead, or to make a copy of that,
but nothing else would do. I persevered in keeping [the] sketch, so he went out in a huff. His
servants (who carry his betel, umberellas [sic], swords, etc.) made free to carry off some of
my drawing implements and other articles which were scattered about. Susan Legouix, Image
of China: William Alexander (London: Jupiter Books Publishers, 1980), tr. 9.
(11) Cristoforo Borri (1585-1632) trong tac pham Relation della nuova missione delli P.P. della
Compagnia di Giesu, al regno della Cocincina (xuat ban tai Rome nam 1631) cung ghi nhan
viec ngi ban x ang Trong hay xin nhng mon o a thch nhng cung rat rong lng va
hao phong cho lai nhng g ho co. Nh vay ay la mot ac tnh chung cua ngi ang Trong
ch khong phai v tham lam.
(12) Susan Legouix, Sd, tr. 33 va George Dutton, The Tay Sn Uprising: Society and Rebellion
in Eighteenth-Century Vietnam (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 2006), tr. 150.
(13) Vo kinh cua Thch Ke Quang i Minh.
(14) ay la ch Nom cua ngi mnh.
(15) Ly Tuy Quang, An Nam s than xng hoa van ap luc, Hoang Hoa Van chu bien, Yen
hanh luc toan bien, quyen V (Quang Tay S pham ai hoc, 2010), tr. 351.
TOM TAT
Bai viet a ra mot so tai lieu va hnh anh ve cach an mac va nhan dang cua ngi Viet
vao the ky XVII, XVIII. Tuy con t oi nhng ay la nhng thong tin quy gia, giup cho chung ta hnh
dung c phan nao ve phuc sc va hnh dang cua ngi Viet thi ky cha co may anh nen
moi mieu ta ve hnh anh eu phai thc hien bang tranh ve va phan ln eu do cac hoa s phng
Tay thc hien.
ABSTRACT
HISTORICAL NOTES ON VIETNAMESE FIGURE IN THE 18TH CENTURY
The article presents a number of documents and pictures of the Vietnamese dressing and
figure in the 17th and 18th centuries. They provide negligible but valuable information for us to
partly figure out Vietnamese dressing and figure before the time of cameras, and descriptions of
images must be done by drawings and largely performed by Western artists.